W / o composition comprising ionically crosslinked cationic polymer selected from chitosans and polylysines

Abstract

To provide a W / O composition that can provide a keratin substance such as skin with, at least, good hydration.SOLUTION: The present invention relates to a composition comprising a plurality of aqueous phases comprising: (a) at least one cationic polymer; (b) at least one non-polymeric acid having two or more pKa values or a salt thereof; and (c) water, and a fatty phase comprising: (d) at least one oil, wherein the aqueous phases are dispersed in the fatty phase, and the (a) cationic polymer is selected from the group consisting of polylysines, chitosans and mixtures thereof, preferably from chitosans. The composition according to the present invention can provide a keratin substance such as skin with, at least, good hydration.SELECTED DRAWING: None

Description

[Technical field]

[0001] The present invention relates to a W / O (water-in-oil) composition comprising an ionically crosslinked cationic polymer selected from chitosan, polylysine and a mixture thereof, and a cosmetic method using said composition. [Background technology]

[0002] As is known in the art, certain cosmetic compositions employ polyion complexes formed with anionic and cationic polymers.

[0003] For example, WO2021 / 125069 discloses a composition useful for cosmetic treatment, comprising at least one cationic polymer, at least one anionic polymer, and at least one polyion complex particle comprising at least one non-polymeric acid having two or more pKa values. WO2021 / 125069 also discloses that the composition disclosed therein may comprise an oil and may be in the form of an emulsion. [Prior art documents] [Patent documents]

[0004] [Patent Document 1] WO2021 / 125069 [Patent Document 2] WO03 / 068824 [Patent Document 3] EP-A-0750899 [Patent Document 4] EP-A-1069172 [Patent Document 5] EP-A-0173109 [Non-patent literature]

[0005] [Non-Patent Document 1] Walter Noll, Chemistry and Technology of Silicones (1968), Academic Press [Non-Patent Document 2] Cosmetics and Toiletries, Vol. 91, January 1976, pp. 27-32, Todd & Byers, Volatile Silicone Fluids for Cosmetics [Non-Patent Document 3] Micelle formation of random copolymers of sodium 2-(acrylamido)-2-methylpropanesulfonate and nonionic surfactant macromonomer in water as studied by fluorescence and dynamic light scattering - Macromolecules, 2000, Vol. 33, No. 10-3694~3704 [Non-Patent Document 4] "Hyaluronan fragments: an information-rich system", R. Stern et al., European Journal of Cell Biology 58 (2006) pp. 699-715 [Non-Patent Document 5] D. Campoccia et al., "Semisynthetic resorbable materials from hyaluronan esterification", Biomaterials 19 (1998) pp. 2101-2127 Summary of the Invention [Problem to be solved by the invention]

[0006] However, it has been found that the compositions disclosed in WO2021 / 125069 are stable only when they contain a very limited amount of oil, for example, 0.5% by weight of oil based on the total weight of the composition.When the disclosed compositions contain a relatively large amount of oil, the compositions tend to become unstable.Therefore, the compositions disclosed in WO2021 / 125069 are in the form of O / W (oil-in-water).

[0007] There is a need for W / O compositions that are capable of providing good hydration to keratinous materials such as the skin.

[0008] It is therefore an object of the present invention to provide a W / O composition which is able to provide at least good hydration to keratinous materials such as the skin. [Means for solving the problem]

[0009] The above object of the present invention is to provide a composition, preferably a cosmetic composition, more preferably a cosmetic composition for keratinous materials such as the skin, comprising: (a) at least one cationic polymer; (b) at least one non-polymeric acid or salt thereof having two or more pKa values; and (c) water A plurality of aqueous phases comprising: (d) at least one oil a fat phase comprising Including, an aqueous phase dispersed in a fatty phase; (a) the cationic polymer is selected from the group consisting of chitosan, polylysine, and mixtures thereof, preferably chitosan; This can be achieved by the composition.

[0010] The amount of the (a) cationic polymer in the composition according to the present invention may be 0.01% by mass to 15% by mass, preferably 0.05% by mass to 10% by mass, and more preferably 0.1% by mass to 5% by mass, based on the total mass of the composition.

[0011] (b) The non-polymeric acid or salt thereof having two or more pKa values ​​may be an organic acid or salt thereof, preferably a hydrophilic or water-soluble organic acid or salt thereof, and more preferably phytic acid or salt thereof.

[0012] The amount of (b) the non-polymeric acid having two or more pKa values ​​or a salt thereof in the composition according to the present invention may be 0.001% by mass to 10% by mass, preferably 0.003% by mass to 5% by mass, and more preferably 0.005% by mass to 1% by mass, based on the total mass of the composition.

[0013] The amount of (c) water in the composition according to the present invention may be 10% by mass to 50% by mass, preferably 15% by mass to 45% by mass, and more preferably 20% by mass to 40% by mass, based on the total mass of the composition.

[0014] The amount of (d) oil in the composition according to the present invention may be 10% by mass to 50% by mass, preferably 15% by mass to 45% by mass, and more preferably 20% by mass to 40% by mass, based on the total mass of the composition.

[0015] The aqueous phase in the composition according to the invention may further comprise (e) at least one anionic polymer.

[0016] (e) The anionic polymer may be selected from the group consisting of polysaccharides such as alginic acid, hyaluronic acid and cellulose polymers, anionic (co)polyamino acids such as (co)polyglutamic acid, (co)poly(meth)acrylic acid, (co)polyamic acid, (co)polystyrenesulfonate, (co)poly(vinylsulfate), dextran sulfate, chondroitin sulfate, (co)polymaleic acid, polyfumaric acid, maleic acid (co)polymers, and salts thereof.

[0017] The amount of the (e) anionic polymer in the composition according to the present invention may be from 0.001% by mass to 15% by mass, preferably from 0.005% by mass to 10% by mass, and more preferably from 0.01% by mass to 5% by mass, relative to the total mass of the composition.

[0018] The fatty phase in the composition according to the invention is preferably 4 ~C 26 , more preferably C 6 ~C 24 , and even more preferably C 8 ~C 22 It may further comprise (f) at least one fatty acid selected from saturated and unsaturated straight-chain or branched fatty acids.

[0019] The amount of the (f) fatty acid in the composition according to the present invention may be 0.01% by mass to 15% by mass, preferably 0.05% by mass to 10% by mass, and more preferably 0.1% by mass to 5% by mass, relative to the total mass of the composition.

[0020] The fatty phase in the composition according to the invention may further comprise (g) at least one organo-modified clay, preferably an organo-modified hectorite, more preferably disteardimonium hectorite.

[0021] The amount of aqueous phase in the composition according to the present invention may be from 30% to 70% by weight, preferably from 35% to 65% by weight, more preferably from 40% to 60% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0022] The amount of fatty phase in the composition according to the invention may be from 30% to 70% by weight, preferably from 35% to 65% by weight, more preferably from 40% to 60% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0023] The present invention also provides a cosmetic method for keratinous materials, such as the skin, comprising the steps of: applying a composition according to the invention to a keratinous material; drying the composition to form a cosmetic film on the keratinous material; The present invention also relates to a method, comprising: DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE PREFERRED EMBODIMENTS

[0024] As a result of extensive investigations, the present inventors have discovered that it is possible to provide a W / O composition that is capable of at least providing good hydration to keratinous materials such as the skin.

[0025] Therefore, the composition according to the invention (a) at least one cationic polymer; (b) at least one non-polymeric acid or salt thereof having two or more pKa values; and (c) water a plurality of aqueous phases comprising (d) at least one oil a fat phase comprising Including, The aqueous phase is dispersed in the fatty phase, (a) The cationic polymer is selected from the group consisting of chitosan, polylysine, and mixtures thereof, and is preferably selected from chitosan.

[0026] (a) The cationic polymer may be (b) ionically crosslinked with a non-polymeric acid or salt thereof having two or more pKa values.

[0027] The composition according to the present invention is capable of providing good hydration to keratinous materials such as the skin, and therefore is capable of providing excellent, long-lasting moisturizing effects to keratinous materials such as the skin.

[0028] The compositions according to the invention may also provide anti-stickiness and / or anti-transfer and / or anti-stickiness to keratinous materials such as skin.

[0029] Therefore, the composition according to the present invention can provide a long-lasting anti-gloss effect. Furthermore, the composition according to the present invention can provide an effect of preventing color transfer from a face with makeup such as foundation to a mask, and the effect can be sustained for a long time. Furthermore, the composition according to the present invention can provide a good texture such as a non-sticky feel that can be sustained for a long time.

[0030] When the composition comprises (f) at least one fatty acid, the color transfer prevention effect provided by the composition according to the present invention can be further enhanced.

[0031] Since chitosan and polylysine can be obtained from natural sources, (a) the cationic polymer is an environmentally compatible ingredient. Therefore, the composition according to the present invention can include an environmentally compatible ingredient.

[0032] The composition according to the present invention comprises a plurality of aqueous phases, which are dispersed or discontinuous phases, including (c) water.

[0033] The composition according to the invention comprises a continuous fatty phase, which comprises (d) an oil. If the composition according to the invention comprises (f) at least one fatty acid and / or (g) at least one organically modified clay, it or they may be present in the fatty phase.

[0034] The (a) cationic polymer may be hydrophobized by (f) fatty acid. A part of the hydrophobized (a) cationic polymer is present between the fatty phase and the aqueous phase and can stabilize the aqueous phase. Therefore, the aqueous phase may be stably dispersed in the fatty phase.

[0035] The composition according to the present invention is stable for a long period of time, in other words, phase separation of the composition according to the present invention can be prevented for a long period of time.

[0036] Therefore, the composition according to the present invention can be stored for a long period of time.

[0037] The composition according to the invention may be particularly useful in foundations or primers containing a large amount of a fatty phase, since this can provide a long-lasting makeup and / or moisturizing effect.

[0038] The present invention will now be described in more detail.

[0039] [Composition] (cationic polymer) The composition according to the present invention comprises (a) at least one cationic polymer.

[0040] (a) The type of cationic polymer is not limited. Two or more different types of cationic polymers may be used in combination. Therefore, a single type of cationic polymer or a combination of different types of cationic polymers may be used.

[0041] The cationic polymer has a positive charge density. The charge density of the (a) cationic polymer may be 0.01 meq / g to 20 meq / g, preferably 0.05 to 15 meq / g, and more preferably 0.1 to 10 meq / g.

[0042] The (a) cationic polymer may be included in an aqueous phase that includes (c) water.

[0043] According to the present invention, (a) the cationic polymer is selected from the group consisting of chitosan, polylysine and mixtures thereof.

[0044] The (a) cationic polymer is preferably selected from chitosan.

[0045] The molecular weight (Da) of the (a) cationic polymer may be less than 20,000, preferably less than 15,000, more preferably less than 10,000. In other words, the (a) cationic polymer may be a low molecular weight chitosan.

[0046] (a) The molecular weight (Da) of the cationic polymer may be greater than 1,000, preferably greater than 1,500, and more preferably greater than 2,000.

[0047] Therefore, the molecular weight (Da) of the (a) cationic polymer may be greater than 1,000 and less than 20,000, preferably greater than 1,500 and less than 15,000, and more preferably greater than 2,000 and less than 10,000.

[0048] Unless otherwise defined in the description, "molecular weight" means weight average molecular weight. Molecular weight can be measured or determined, for example, by gel permeation chromatography according to ASTM D5296-19.

[0049] Chitosan is not commonly found in nature: it has only been reported in the exoskeletons of certain insects, such as termite queens, and in the cell walls of a certain class of fungi, the Zygomycetes.

[0050] Chitosan can be obtained by deacetylation of chitin, a polysaccharide composed of several N-acetyl-D-glucosamine units linked together by β-type bonds (1,4).

[0051] The idealized chemical structure of chitosan is a sequence of β-D-glucosamine monomers linked by glycosidic bonds (1→4).

[0052] "Chitosan" according to the present invention means any copolymer formed from the building blocks N-acetyl-D-glucosamine and D-glucosamine, the degree of acetylation of which is less than 90%, preferably less than 80%, preferably less than 70%, preferably less than 60%, preferably less than 50%. Chitosan consists of glucosamine sugar units (deacetylated units) and N-acetyl-D-glucosamine units (acetylated units) linked together by β-type bonds (1,4), and is a polymer of the poly(N-acetyl-D-glucosamine)-poly(D-glucosamine) type.

[0053] More preferably, the degree of acetylation of chitosan is not more than 40%, preferably not more than 35%, preferably not more than 25%, preferably not more than 15%, preferably not more than 10%.

[0054] The degree of acetylation is the percentage of acetylated units relative to the total number of units and can be determined by Fourier transform infrared spectroscopy (FT-IR) or by titration with a strong base.

[0055] The chitosan of the present invention is preferably a polysaccharide prepared from fungal origin, in particular, it is extracted and purified from safe and abundant food or biotechnological fungal sources, such as mushroom (Agaricus bisporus) or Aspergillus niger.

[0056] The chitosan of the present invention is preferably derived from a fungus of the Ascomycete type, in particular Aspergillus niger and / or from a fungus of the Basidiomycete type, in particular from the mycelium of Lentinula edodes (shiitake mushroom) and / or from a mushroom. Preferably, the fungus is Aspergillus niger.

[0057] The chitosan may be of GMO (Genetically Modified Organisms) origin, but is preferably of non-GMO origin.

[0058] The chitosan according to the invention is natural, i.e. unmodified, in particular it does not contain any chemical modifications.

[0059] One method for preparing chitosan is the method described in WO03 / 068824.

[0060] Preferably, the chitosan used in the present invention is in the form of a powder. It is commercially available from Glentham Life Sciences under the name GU3511.

[0061] Polylysine is also well known.

[0062] Polylysine can be a natural homopolymer of L-lysine that can be produced by bacterial fermentation. For example, polylysine can be ε-poly-L-lysine, which is typically used as a natural preservative in food. Polylysine is a polyelectrolyte that is soluble in polar solvents, such as water, propylene glycol and glycerol. Polylysine is commercially available in various forms, such as poly-D-lysine and poly-L-lysine. Poly-L-lysine is preferred. Polylysine can be in the form of a salt and / or solution.

[0063] The amount of (a) cationic polymer in the composition according to the present invention may be 0.01% by weight or more, preferably 0.05% by weight or more, more preferably 0.1% by weight or more, based on the total weight of the composition.

[0064] The amount of (a) cationic polymer in the composition according to the present invention may be up to 15% by weight, preferably up to 10% by weight, more preferably up to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0065] The amount of the (a) cationic polymer in the composition according to the present invention may be 0.01% by mass to 15% by mass, preferably 0.05% by mass to 10% by mass, and more preferably 0.1% by mass to 5% by mass, based on the total mass of the composition.

[0066] (Non-polymeric acids with two or more acid dissociation constants) The composition according to the present invention comprises (b) at least one non-polymeric acid or salt thereof having two or more pKa values, i.e., at least one non-polymeric acid or salt thereof having two or more acid dissociation constants. The pKa value (acid dissociation constant) is well known to those skilled in the art and should be determined at a certain temperature, e.g., 25°C.

[0067] (b) a non-polymeric acid or salt thereof having two or more pKa values ​​can be included in (c) an aqueous phase that includes water. The non-polymeric acid having two or more pKa values ​​can function as a crosslinker for the (a) cationic polymer.

[0068] The term "non-polymeric" as used herein means that the acid is not obtained by polymerizing two or more monomers, and thus does not correspond to acids obtained by polymerizing two or more monomers, such as polyacrylic acid.

[0069] (b) The molecular weight of the non-polymeric acid or salt thereof having two or more pKa values ​​is preferably 1000 or less, more preferably 800 or less, and even more preferably 700 or less.

[0070] The type of (b) non-polymeric acid having two or more pKa values ​​or its salt is not limited. Two or more different types of (b) non-polymeric acid having two or more pKa values ​​or its salt may be used in combination. Therefore, a single type of (b) non-polymeric acid having two or more pKa values ​​or its salt, or a combination of different types of (b) non-polymeric acid having two or more pKa values ​​or its salt may be used.

[0071] The term "salt" as used herein refers to a salt formed by adding a suitable base to a non-polymeric acid having two or more pKa values, which can be obtained from the reaction of a non-polymeric acid having two or more pKa values ​​with a base according to methods known to those skilled in the art. The salt can include metal salts, such as salts with alkali metals such as Na and K, and salts with alkaline earth metals such as Mg and Ca, and ammonium salts.

[0072] The non-polymeric acid or salt thereof having two or more pKa values ​​may be an organic acid or salt thereof, preferably a hydrophilic or water-soluble organic acid or salt thereof.

[0073] The non-polymeric acid having two or more pKa values ​​can have at least two acid groups selected from the group consisting of carboxylic acid groups, sulfate groups, sulfonic acid groups, phosphoric acid groups, phosphonic acid groups, phenolic hydroxyl groups, and mixtures thereof.

[0074] The non-polymeric acid having two or more pKa values ​​may be a non-polymeric polyacid, such as phosphoric acid.

[0075] The non-polymeric acids having two or more pKa values ​​can be selected from the group consisting of dicarboxylic acids, disulfonic acids, and diphosphoric acids, and mixtures thereof.

[0076] (b) Non-polymeric acids or salts thereof having two or more pKa values ​​are oxalic acid, malonic acid, succinic acid, glutaric acid, adipic acid, pimelic acid, suberic acid, azelaic acid, sebacic acid, fumaric acid, maleic acid, malic acid, citric acid, aconitic acid, oxaloacetic acid, tartaric acid, and salts thereof; aspartic acid, glutamic acid, and salts thereof; terephthalylidene dicamphorsulfonic acid or salts thereof (Mexoryl SX), Benzophenone-9; Phytic acid and its salts; Red No. 2 (Amaranth), Red No. 102 (New Coccine), Yellow No. 5 (Tartrazine), Yellow No. 6 (Sunset Yellow FCF), Green No. 3 (Fast Green FCF), Blue No. 1 (Brilliant Blue FCF), Blue No. 2 (Indigo Carmine), Red No. 201 (Lithol Rubin B), Red No. 202 (Lithol Rubin BCA), Red No. 204 (Lake Red CBA), Red No. 206 (Lithol Red CA), Red No. 207 (Lithol Red BA), Red No. 208 (Lithol Red SR), Red No. 219 (Brilliant Lake Red R), Red No. 220 (Deep Maroon), Red No. 227 (Fast Acid Magenta), Yellow No. 203 (Quinoline Yellow WS) ), Green No. 201 (Alizanin Cyanine Green F), Green No. 204 (Pyranine Conc), Green No. 205 (Light Green SF Yellowish), Blue No. 203 (Patent Blue CA), Blue No. 205 (Alphazurine FG), Red No. 401 (Violamin R), Red No. 405 (Permanent Red F5R), Red No. 502 (Ponceau 3R), Red No. 503 (Ponceau R), Red No. 504 (Ponceau SX), Green No. 401 (Naphthol Green B), Green No. 402 (Guinea Green B) and Black No. 401 (Naphthol Blue Black); folic acid, ascorbic acid, erythorbic acid, and salts thereof; cystine and its salts; EDTA and its salts; glycyrrhizin and its salts; and mixtures thereof.

[0077] (b) It may be preferred that the non-polymeric acid or salt thereof having two or more pKa values ​​is selected from the group consisting of terephthalylidene dicamphorsulfonic acid and its salts (Mexoryl SX), Yellow No. 6 (Sunset Yellow FCF), ascorbic acid, phytic acid and their salts, and mixtures thereof.

[0078] (b) The non-polymeric acid or salt thereof having two or more pKa values ​​may be an organic acid or salt thereof, preferably a hydrophilic or water-soluble organic acid or salt thereof, and more preferably phytic acid or salt thereof.

[0079] The amount of (b) the non-polymeric acid or salt thereof having two or more pKa values ​​in the composition according to the present invention may be 0.001% by weight or more, preferably 0.003% by weight or more, and more preferably 0.005% by weight or more, based on the total weight of the composition.

[0080] The amount of (b) the non-polymeric acid or salt thereof having two or more pKa values ​​in the composition according to the present invention may be 10% by weight or less, preferably 5% by weight or less, and more preferably 1% by weight or less, based on the total weight of the composition.

[0081] The amount of (b) the non-polymeric acid having two or more pKa values ​​or a salt thereof in the composition according to the present invention may be 0.001% by mass to 10% by mass, preferably 0.003% by mass to 5% by mass, and more preferably 0.005% by mass to 1% by mass, based on the total mass of the composition.

[0082] (water) The composition according to the present invention comprises (c) water.

[0083] (c) Water may constitute an aqueous phase, which may be the dispersed or discontinuous phase, in the composition according to the invention.

[0084] The amount of (c) water may be 10% by weight or more, preferably 15% by weight or more, and more preferably 20% by weight or more, based on the total weight of the composition.

[0085] (c) The amount of water may be up to 50% by weight, preferably up to 45% by weight, and more preferably up to 40% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.

[0086] The amount of (c) water may be from 10% to 50% by mass, preferably from 15% to 45% by mass, and more preferably from 20% to 40% by mass, relative to the total mass of the composition.

[0087] (oil) The composition according to the present invention comprises at least one (d) oil. When two or more (d) oils are used, they may be the same or different.

[0088] (d) The oil may constitute a fatty phase, which may be the continuous phase, in the composition according to the invention.

[0089] In this specification, "oil" means a fatty compound or substance that is in the form of a liquid or paste (non-solid) at atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg) and at room temperature (25°C). As oils, those commonly used in cosmetics can be used, alone or in combination. These oils can be volatile or non-volatile.

[0090] (d) The oil may be a non-polar oil, such as a hydrocarbon oil, a silicone oil, or the like; a polar oil, such as a vegetable oil or an animal oil, and an ester oil or an ether oil; or a mixture thereof.

[0091] (d) The oil may be selected from the group consisting of oils of vegetable or animal origin, synthetic oils, silicone oils, hydrocarbon oils, and fatty alcohols.

[0092] Examples of vegetable oils include, for example, apricot oil, linseed oil, camellia oil, macadamia nut oil, corn oil, mink oil, olive oil, avocado oil, camellia oil, castor oil, safflower oil, jojoba oil, sunflower oil, almond oil, rapeseed oil, sesame oil, soybean oil, peanut oil, and mixtures thereof.

[0093] Examples of animal oils include, for example, squalene and squalane.

[0094] Examples of synthetic oils include alkane oils such as isododecane and isohexadecane, ester oils, ether oils, and artificial triglycerides.

[0095] The ester oil is preferably a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched C 1 ~C 26 Aliphatic mono- or polyacids and saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched C 1 ~C 26 They are liquid esters with aliphatic monohydric or polyhydric alcohols, the total number of carbon atoms in the ester being 10 or more.

[0096] Preferably, in the case of esters of monohydric alcohols, at least one of the alcohol and acid from which the esters of the invention are derived is branched.

[0097] Among the monoesters of monoacids and monohydric alcohols, mention may be made of ethyl palmitate, ethylhexyl palmitate, isopropyl palmitate, dicaprylyl carbonate, alkyl myristates such as isopropyl myristate or ethyl myristate, isocetyl stearate, 2-ethylhexyl isononanoate, isononyl isononanoate, isodecyl neopentanoate and isostearyl neopentanoate.

[0098] C 4 ~C 22 Dicarboxylic or tricarboxylic acids and C 1 ~C 22 Esters with alcohols, and mono-, di- or tricarboxylic acids and non-sugar C 4 ~C 26 Esters with dihydroxy, trihydroxy, tetrahydroxy or pentahydroxy alcohols can also be used.

[0099] Mention may especially be made of diethyl sebacate, isopropyl lauroyl sarcosine, diisopropyl sebacate, bis(2-ethylhexyl) sebacate, diisopropyl adipate, di-n-propyl adipate, dioctyl adipate, bis(2-ethylhexyl) adipate, diisostearyl adipate, bis(2-ethylhexyl) maleate, triisopropyl citrate, triisocetyl citrate, triisostearyl citrate, glyceryl trilactate, glyceryl trioctanoate, trioctyldodecyl citrate, trioleyl citrate, neopentyl glycol diheptanoate, diethylene glycol diisononanoate.

[0100] As an ester oil, C 6 ~C 30 , preferably C 12 ~C 22 Sugar esters and diesters of fatty acids can be used. It is recalled that the term "sugar" means an oxygen-bearing hydrocarbon-based compound containing at least four carbon atoms and containing several alcohol functional groups, with or without aldehyde or ketone functional groups. These sugars may be monosaccharides, oligosaccharides, or polysaccharides.

[0101] Examples of suitable sugars that may be mentioned are sucrose (or sucrose), glucose, galactose, ribose, fucose, maltose, fructose, mannose, arabinose, xylose and lactose, as well as derivatives thereof, in particular alkyl derivatives, such as methyl derivatives, for example methylglucose.

[0102] Sugar esters of fatty acids are in particular those which are composed of the aforementioned sugars and linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C 6 ~C 30 , preferably C 12 ~C 22 They may be selected from the group comprising esters or mixtures of esters with fatty acids. When these compounds are unsaturated, they may have from 1 to 3 conjugated or non-conjugated carbon-carbon double bonds.

[0103] The esters according to this variant can also be chosen from monoesters, diesters, triesters, tetraesters and polyesters, and mixtures thereof.

[0104] These esters may be, for example, oleate, laurate, palmitate, myristate, behenate, coconut oil fatty acid esters, stearate, linoleate, linolenate, caprate and arachidonic acid esters, or mixtures thereof, such as, in particular, the mixed esters of oleopalmitate, oleostearate and palmitostearate, and pentaerythrityl tetraethylhexanoate.

[0105] More particularly, mono- and diesters are used, in particular the mono- or dioleate, stearate, behenate, oleopalmitate, linoleate, linolenate and oleostearate of sucrose, glucose or methylglucose.

[0106] An example that may be mentioned is the product sold under the name Glucate® DO by the company Amerchol, which is a methylglucose dioleate.

[0107] Examples of preferred ester oils include diisopropyl adipate, dioctyl adipate, 2-ethylhexyl hexanoate, ethyl laurate, cetyl octanoate, octyldodecyl octanoate, isodecyl neopentanoate, myristyl propionate, 2-ethylhexyl 2-ethylhexanoate, 2-ethylhexyl octanoate, 2-ethylhexyl caprylate / caprate, methyl palmitate, ethyl palmitate, isopropyl palmitate, dicaprylate carbonate, and the like. Examples of suitable oleic acid salts include glyceryl tri(2-ethylhexanoate), isopropyl lauroyl sarcosinate, isononyl isononanoate, ethylhexyl palmitate, isohexyl laurate, hexyl laurate, isocetyl stearate, isopropyl isostearate, isopropyl myristate, isodecyl oleate, glyceryl tri(2-ethylhexanoate), pentaerythrityl tetra(2-ethylhexanoate), 2-ethylhexyl succinate, diethyl sebacate, and mixtures thereof.

[0108] Examples of artificial triglycerides include capryl caprylyl glyceride, glyceryl trimyristate, glyceryl tripalmitate, glyceryl trilinolenate, glyceryl trilaurate, glyceryl tricaprate, glyceryl tricaprylate, capric / caprylic triglyceride, and capric / caprylic / linolenic triglyceride.

[0109] Examples of silicone oils include linear organopolysiloxanes such as dimethylpolysiloxane, methylphenylpolysiloxane, methylhydrogenpolysiloxane, and the like; cyclic organopolysiloxanes such as cyclohexasiloxane, octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane, and the like; and mixtures thereof.

[0110] Preferably, the silicone oil is chosen from polydialkylsiloxane liquids, especially polydimethylsiloxane (PDMS) liquids, and polyorganosiloxane liquids containing at least one aryl group.

[0111] These silicone oils may also be organically modified. The organically modified silicones that may be used according to the invention are silicone oils as defined above, which contain in their structure one or more organic functional groups that are linked via a hydrocarbon-based group.

[0112] Organopolysiloxanes are more fully defined in Walter Noll, Chemistry and Technology of Silicones, Academic Press, 1968. They may be volatile or nonvolatile.

[0113] If volatile, the silicones are more particularly chosen from those having a boiling point between 60° C. and 260° C., and even more particularly chosen from: (i) cyclic polydialkylsiloxanes containing 3 to 7, preferably 4 to 5, silicon atoms. These are, for example, octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, sold in particular under the name Volatile Silicone® 7207 by Union Carbide or under the name Silbione® 70045 V2 by Rhodia, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, sold under the name Volatile Silicone® 7158 by Union Carbide and under the name Silbione® 70045 V5 by Rhodia, and dodecamethylcyclopentasiloxane, sold under the name Silsoft 1217 by Momentive Performance Materials, and mixtures thereof.

[0114] [ka]

[0115] Mention may also be made of cyclocopolymers of the dimethylsiloxane / methylalkylsiloxane type, such as Silicone Volatile® FZ 3109 sold by Union Carbide.

[0116] Mention may also be made of mixtures of cyclic polydialkylsiloxanes and organosilicon compounds, such as a 50 / 50 mixture of octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane and tetratrimethylsilylpentaerythritol, and a mixture of octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane and oxy-1,1'-bis(2,2,2',2',3,3'-hexatrimethylsilyloxy)neopentane. (ii) Contains 2 to 9 silicon atoms and has a molecular weight of 5 × 10 at 25 °C -6 m 2 Linear, volatile polydialkylsiloxanes with a viscosity of less than 10000 / s. An example is decamethyltetrasiloxane, sold in particular under the name SH 200 by Toray Silicone. Silicones belonging to this category are also described in the article published in Cosmetics and Toiletries, Vol. 91, January 1976, pages 27-32, Todd & Byers, Volatile Silicone Fluids for Cosmetics. The viscosity of silicones is measured at 25°C according to ASTM Standard 445, Annex C.

[0117] Non-volatile polydialkylsiloxanes may also be used. These non-volatile silicones are more particularly chosen from the polydialkylsiloxanes, among which mention may be made mainly of the polydimethylsiloxanes containing trimethylsilyl end groups.

[0118] Among these polydialkylsiloxanes, mention may be made, in a non-limiting manner, of the following commercial products: Silbione® or Mirasil® oils of the 47 and 70 047 series sold by the company Rhodia, such as for example the 70 047 V 500 000 oil; the Mirasil® series of oils sold by the company Rhodia; - Dow Corning 200 series oils, e.g., 60,000mm viscosity 2 / s DC 200, and - Viscasil® oils manufactured by General Electric and certain oils of the SF series manufactured by General Electric (SF 96, SF 18).

[0119] Mention may also be made of polydimethylsiloxanes containing dimethylsilanol end groups, known under the name dimethiconol (CTFA), such as the 48 series oils from Rhodia.

[0120] Among the silicones containing aryl groups, mention may be made of the polydiarylsiloxanes, especially polydiphenylsiloxanes, and polyalkylarylsiloxanes, such as phenylsilicone oils.

[0121] Phenyl silicone oils have the formula:

[0122] [ka]

[0123] (In the formula, R 1 ~R 10 are, independently of one another, saturated or unsaturated, linear, cyclic or branched C 1 ~C 30 Hydrocarbon group, preferably C 1 ~C 12 Hydrocarbon groups, more preferably C 1 ~C 6 a hydrocarbon group, specifically a methyl, ethyl, propyl or butyl group; m, n, p and q each independently represent an integer of 0 to 900, preferably 0 to 500, more preferably 0 to 100, inclusive; However, the sum n+m+q is not 0.) The phenyl silicones may be selected from the following:

[0124] Examples that may be mentioned include products sold under the following names: - Silbione® oils of the 70 641 series from Rhodia, Rhodorsil® 70 633 and 763 series oils from Rhodia, - Dow Corning oil Dow Corning 556 Cosmetic Grade Fluid, - PK series silicones from Bayer, e.g. product PK20, - Certain oils of the SF series manufactured by General Electric, such as SF 1023, SF 1154, SF 1250 and SF 1265.

[0125] As the phenyl silicone oil, phenyl trimethicone (R 1 ~R 10 is methyl, p, q and n=0, and m=1).

[0126] The organically modified liquid silicones may in particular contain polyethyleneoxy and / or polypropyleneoxy groups. Mention may thus be made of the silicone KF-6017 proposed by Shin-Etsu Chemical Co., Ltd., and the oils Silwet® L722 and L77 from Union Carbide.

[0127] The hydrocarbon oil may be selected from: - Linear or branched, optionally cyclic C 6 ~C 16 Lower alkanes. Examples that may be mentioned include hexane, undecane, dodecane, tridecane, and isoparaffins, such as isohexadecane, isododecane, and isodecane; - linear or branched hydrocarbons containing more than 16 carbon atoms, such as liquid paraffin, liquid petroleum jelly, polydecenes and hydrogenated polyisobutenes, such as Parleam®, and squalane.

[0128] Preferred examples of hydrocarbon oils include, for example, linear or branched hydrocarbons such as isohexadecane, isododecane, squalane, mineral oils (e.g., liquid paraffin), paraffin, petrolatum or petrolatum, naphthalene, etc.; hydrogenated polyisobutene, isoeicosane, and decene / butene copolymers; and mixtures thereof.

[0129] The term "aliphatic" in aliphatic alcohols means containing a relatively large number of carbon atoms. Thus, alcohols having 4 or more, preferably 6 or more, more preferably 12 or more carbon atoms are included within the scope of aliphatic alcohols. The aliphatic alcohols may be saturated or unsaturated. The aliphatic alcohols may be linear or branched.

[0130] The aliphatic alcohol may have the structure R-OH, where R is selected from saturated and unsaturated, linear and branched groups containing from 4 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, and more preferably from 12 to 20 carbon atoms. In at least one embodiment, R is selected from C 12 ~C 20 Alkyl group and C 12 ~C 20 alkenyl groups. R may be unsubstituted or substituted with at least one hydroxyl group.

[0131] Examples of fatty alcohols include lauryl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, undecylenyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, octyldodecanol, hexyldecanol, oleyl alcohol, linoleyl alcohol, palmitoleyl alcohol, arachidonyl alcohol, erucyl alcohol, and mixtures thereof.

[0132] Preferably, the fatty alcohol is a saturated fatty alcohol.

[0133] Thus, fatty alcohols are linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C 6 ~C 30 Alcohols, preferably linear or branched, saturated C 6 ~C 30 Alcohols, more preferably linear or branched, saturated C 12 ~C 20 Alcohol can be selected.

[0134] The term "saturated fatty alcohol" as used herein means an alcohol having a long, saturated aliphatic carbon chain. A saturated fatty alcohol is any linear or branched, saturated C 6 ~C 30 Preferably, the alcohol is selected from linear or branched saturated C 6 ~C 30 Among fatty alcohols, linear or branched saturated C 12 ~C 20 Aliphatic alcohols are preferably used. Any linear or branched saturated C 16 ~C 20 Aliphatic alcohols are more preferably used. 16 ~C 20 Aliphatic alcohols may be used even more preferably.

[0135] Examples of saturated fatty alcohols include lauryl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, undecylenyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, octyldodecanol, hexyldecanol, and mixtures thereof. In one embodiment, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, octyldodecanol, hexyldecanol, or mixtures thereof (e.g., cetearyl alcohol), and behenyl alcohol can be used as the saturated fatty alcohol.

[0136] According to at least one embodiment, the fatty alcohols used in the compositions according to the invention are preferably chosen from octyldodecanol, hexyldecanol, and mixtures thereof.

[0137] It may be preferred that the (d) oil is selected from synthetic ester oils, hydrocarbon oils, silicone oils, and mixtures thereof.

[0138] The amount of (d) oil in the composition according to the present invention may be 10% by weight or more, preferably 15% by weight or more, more preferably 20% by weight or more, based on the total weight of the composition.

[0139] The amount of (d) oil in the composition according to the present invention may be 50% by mass or less, preferably 45% by mass or less, more preferably 40% by mass or less, based on the total mass of the composition.

[0140] The amount of (d) oil in the composition according to the present invention may be 10% by mass to 50% by mass, preferably 15% by mass to 45% by mass, and more preferably 20% by mass to 40% by mass, based on the total mass of the composition.

[0141] (anionic polymer) The composition according to the present invention may comprise (e) at least one anionic polymer. A single type of anionic polymer may be used, but two or more different types of anionic polymers may also be used in combination.

[0142] The anionic polymer has a negative charge density. When the (e) anionic polymer is a synthetic anionic polymer, the charge density of the (e) anionic polymer may be 0.1 meq / g to 20 meq / g, preferably 1 meq / g to 15 meq / g, and more preferably 4 meq / g to 10 meq / g, and when the (e) anionic polymer is a natural anionic polymer, the average degree of substitution of the (e) anionic polymer may be 0.1 to 3.0, preferably 0.2 to 2.7, and more preferably 0.3 to 2.5.

[0143] (e) It may be preferred that the molecular weight of the anionic polymer is 1,000 or more, preferably 2,000 or more, even more preferably 5,000 or more, even more preferably 10,000 or more, even more preferably 50,000 or more, even more preferably 100,000 or more, and even more preferably 1,000,000 or more.

[0144] Unless otherwise defined in the description, "molecular weight" may mean weight average molecular weight.

[0145] (e) The anionic polymer may have at least one negatively chargeable and / or negatively charged moiety selected from the group consisting of sulfate groups, sulfate groups, sulfonic acid groups, sulfonate groups, phosphoric acid groups, phosphate groups, phosphonic acid groups, phosphonate groups, carboxylic acid groups, and carboxylate groups.

[0146] (e) The anionic polymer may be a homopolymer or a copolymer. The term "copolymer" is understood to mean both copolymers obtained from two types of monomers and those obtained from more than two types of monomers, for example terpolymers obtained from three types of monomers.

[0147] (e) The anionic polymer may be selected from natural and synthetic anionic polymers, preferably natural anionic polymers.

[0148] (e) The anionic polymer may include at least one hydrophobic chain.

[0149] The (e) anionic polymer, which may comprise at least one hydrophobic chain, may be obtained by copolymerization of a monomer (a) selected from carboxylic acids containing α,β-ethylenic unsaturation (monomer a') and 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid (monomer a") with a non-surface-active monomer containing ethylenic unsaturation other than (a) (b) and / or a monomer (c) containing ethylenic unsaturation obtained by reacting an acrylic monomer containing α,β-monoethylenic unsaturation or an isocyanate monomer containing monoethylenic unsaturation with a monovalent nonionic amphiphilic component or a primary or secondary fatty amine.

[0150] Therefore, (e) anionic polymers having at least one hydrophobic chain can be synthesized by the following two routes: - copolymerization of the monomers (a') and (c), or (a'), (b) and (c), or (a''), (c), or (a''), (b) and (c), or - modification (in particular esterification or amidation) of monomer (a') or of copolymers formed from monomers (a') and (b) or (a'') and (b) with monovalent non-ionic amphiphilic compounds or primary or secondary fatty amines. can be obtained by

[0151] As 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonate copolymers, mention may be made in particular of those disclosed in the article "Micelle formation of random copolymers of sodium 2-(acrylamido)-2-methylpropanesulfonate and nonionic surfactant macromonomer in water as studied by fluorescence and dynamic light scattering - Macromolecules, 2000, Vol. 33, No. 10, pp. 3694 to 3704" and in applications EP-A-0750899 and EP-A-1069172.

[0152] The carboxylic acid containing α,β-monoethylenic unsaturation constituting monomer (a′) can be chosen from a large number of acids, in particular from acrylic acid, methacrylic acid, crotonic acid, itaconic acid and maleic acid, and is preferably acrylic acid or methacrylic acid.

[0153] The copolymer may also contain monomers (b) containing monoethylenic unsaturation that do not have surfactant properties. Preferred monomers are those which, when homopolymerized, result in water-insoluble polymers. These include, for example, acrylic and alkyl methacrylates (C 1 ~C 4 ), for example methyl acrylate, ethyl acrylate, butyl acrylate or the corresponding methacrylic acid. More particularly preferred monomers are methyl acrylate and ethyl acrylate. Other monomers which may be used are, for example, styrene, vinyl toluene, vinyl acetate, acrylonitrile and vinylidene chloride. Non-reactive monomers are preferred, these monomers being those in which the single ethylenic group is the only group which is reactive under the polymerization conditions. However, monomers which contain a group which reacts under the action of heat, for example hydroxyethyl acrylate, can optionally be used.

[0154] Monomer (c) is obtained by reacting an acrylic monomer containing α,β-monoethylenic unsaturation, such as (a), or an isocyanate monomer containing monoethylenic unsaturation, with a monovalent nonionic amphiphilic compound or a primary or secondary fatty amine.

[0155] The monovalent nonionic amphiphilic compounds or primary or secondary fatty amines used to produce the nonionic monomers (c) are well known. The monovalent nonionic amphiphilic compounds are generally alkoxylated hydrophobic compounds with alkylene oxides forming the hydrophilic portion of the molecule. The hydrophobic compounds are generally composed of aliphatic alcohols or alkylphenols, in which a carbonaceous chain containing at least 6 carbon atoms constitutes the hydrophobic portion of the amphiphilic compound.

[0156] Preferred monovalent nonionic amphiphilic compounds have the following formula (V): R-(OCH 2 CHR') m -(OCH 2 CH 2 ) n -OH (V) wherein R is selected from alkyl or alkylene groups containing 6 to 30 carbon atoms, and alkylaryl groups having an alkyl group containing 8 to 30 carbon atoms; R' is selected from alkyl groups containing 1 to 4 carbon atoms; n is an average number ranging from about 1 to 150; and m is an average number ranging from about 0 to 50, with the proviso that n is at least as large as m. It is a compound having the formula:

[0157] Preferably, in the compound of formula (V), the R group is an alkyl group containing 12 to 26 carbon atoms and the alkyl group is C 8 ~C 13 and R′ is a methyl group, m=0 and n=1-25.

[0158] Preferred primary and secondary fatty amines are composed of one or two alkyl chains containing from 6 to 30 carbon atoms.

[0159] The monomers used to form the nonionic urethane monomer (c) can be selected from a wide variety of compounds. Any compound containing copolymerizable unsaturation, such as acrylic, methacrylic or allylic unsaturation, may be used. Monomer (c) can be obtained in particular from isocyanates containing monoethylenic unsaturation, such as in particular α,α-dimethyl-m-isopropenyl benzyl isocyanate.

[0160] The monomer (c) is in particular an oxyethylenated (1 to 50 EO) C 6 ~C 30 Acrylates, methacrylates or itaconates of fatty alcohols, such as steareth-20 methacrylate, oxyethylenated (25EO) behenyl methacrylate, oxyethylenated (20EO) monocetyl itaconate, oxyethylenated (20EO) monostearyl itaconate or polyoxyethylenated (25EO) C 12 ~C 24 From alcohol-modified acrylates and oxyethylenated (1-50EO) C 6 ~C 30 It may be selected from the dimethyl-m-isopropenyl benzyl isocyanates of aliphatic alcohols, such as in particular the dimethyl-m-isopropenyl benzyl isocyanate of oxyethylenated behenyl alcohol.

[0161] According to a particular embodiment of the present invention, the (e) anionic polymer is selected from an acrylic terpolymer obtained from (a) a carboxylic acid containing α,β-ethylenic unsaturation, (b) a non-surface active monomer containing ethylenic unsaturation other than (a), and (c) a nonionic urethane monomer which is the reaction product of a monovalent nonionic amphiphilic compound with an isocyanate containing monoethylenic unsaturation.

[0162] As anionic polymers (e) which comprise at least one hydrophobic chain, there may in particular be mentioned acrylic acid / ethyl acrylate / alkyl acrylate terpolymers, such as the product sold as a 30% aqueous dispersion under the name Acusol 823 by Rohm & Haas; acrylates / steareth-20 methacrylate copolymers, such as the product sold as a 30% aqueous dispersion under the name Aculyn 22 by Rohm & Haas; (meth)acrylic acid / ethyl acrylate / oxyethylated (25EO) behenyl methacrylate terpolymers, such as the product sold as an aqueous emulsion under the name Aculyn 28 by Rohm & Haas; acrylic acid / oxyethylated (20EO) monocetyl itaconate copolymers, such as the product sold as a 30% aqueous dispersion under the name Structure 3001 by National Starch; acrylic acid / oxyethylated (20EO) monostearyl itaconate copolymers, such as the product sold as a 30% aqueous dispersion under the name Structure 3001 by National Starch; Product sold in 2001 as a 30% aqueous dispersion; Acrylate / Polyoxyethylenated (25EO)C 12 ~C 24 Mention may be made of copolymers of acrylates modified with alcohols, such as the 30-32% copolymer latex sold under the name Synthalen W2000 by the company 3V SA; or the terpolymers of methacrylic acid / methyl acrylate / ethoxylated behenyl alcohol with dimethyl-meta-isopropenylbenzyl isocyanate, such as the product disclosed in document EP-A-0173109 as a 24% aqueous dispersion containing 40 ethylene oxide groups.

[0163] (e) The anionic polymer may also be polyester-5, for example, having the following chemical formula:

[0164] [ka]

[0165] (In the formula, A: Dicarboxylic acid moiety G: glycol moiety SO 3 - Na + : Sodium sulfo group OH: hydroxyl group) The polymer may be a product sold by EASTMAN CHEMICAL under the name Eastman AQ™ 55S Polymer having the formula:

[0166] (e) It may be preferred that the anionic polymer is selected from the group consisting of polysaccharides such as alginic acid, hyaluronic acid, xanthan gum, and cellulose polymers (e.g. carboxymethylcellulose), anionic (co)polyamino acids such as (co)polyglutamic acid, (co)poly(meth)acrylic acid, (co)polyamic acid, (co)polystyrene sulfonate, (co)poly(vinyl sulfate), dextran sulfate, chondroitin sulfate, (co)polymaleic acid, (co)polyfumaric acid, maleic acid (co)polymers, and salts thereof.

[0167] The maleic acid copolymer may comprise one or more maleic acid comonomers and one or more comonomers selected from vinyl acetate, vinyl alcohol, vinyl pyrrolidone, olefins containing from 2 to 20 carbon atoms, and styrene.

[0168] Thus, "maleic copolymer" is understood to mean any polymer obtained by copolymerization of one or more maleic comonomers with one or more comonomers selected from vinyl acetate, vinyl alcohol, vinylpyrrolidone, olefins containing 2 to 20 carbon atoms, such as octadecene, ethylene, isobutylene, diisobutylene or isooctylene, and styrene, the maleic comonomers being optionally partially or completely hydrolyzed. Preferably, hydrophilic polymers are used, i.e. polymers with a water solubility of 2 g / l or more.

[0169] In an advantageous embodiment of the invention, the maleic copolymer may have a molar fraction of maleic units between 0.1 and 1, more preferably between 0.4 and 0.9.

[0170] The weight average molar mass of the maleic acid copolymers may be between 1,000 and 500,000, preferably between 1,000 and 50,000.

[0171] It is preferred that the maleic acid copolymer is a styrene / maleic acid copolymer, more preferably a sodium styrene / maleic acid copolymer.

[0172] Preferably, a copolymer of styrene and maleic acid in a 50 / 50 ratio is used.

[0173] For example, a styrene / maleic acid (50 / 50) copolymer in the form of its ammonium salt at 30% in water sold under the reference SMA1000H® by the company Cray Valley, or a styrene / maleic acid (50 / 50) copolymer in the form of its sodium salt at 40% in water sold under the reference SMA1000HNa® by the company Cray Valley, may be used.

[0174] The use of styrene / maleic acid copolymers, such as sodium styrene / maleic acid copolymer, can improve the wettability of films prepared with the compositions according to the invention.

[0175] In a preferred embodiment, the (e) anionic polymer can be selected from hyaluronic acid, its salts (e.g., sodium hyaluronate), and its derivatives.

[0176] Hyaluronic acid has the following chemical formula:

[0177] [ka]

[0178] It can be expressed as:

[0179] In the context of the present invention, the term "hyaluronic acid" refers specifically to a compound having the following formula:

[0180] [ka]

[0181] It includes the basic unit of hyaluronic acid.

[0182] It is the smallest portion of hyaluronic acid that contains a disaccharide dimer, namely D-glucuronic acid and N-acetylglucosamine.

[0183] The term "hyaluronic acid and its derivatives" also includes, in the context of the present invention, linear polymers comprising the above polymer units linked together in a chain via alternating β(1,4) and β(1,3) glycosidic bonds, with a molecular weight (MW) that can range between 380 and 13,000,000 daltons, which depends mainly on the source from which the hyaluronic acid is obtained and / or on the method of preparation.

[0184] The term "hyaluronic acid and its derivatives" in the context of the present invention also includes hyaluronic acid salts, which may include alkali metal salts such as sodium salts and potassium salts, alkaline earth metal salts such as magnesium salts, ammonium salts, and mixtures thereof.

[0185] In nature, hyaluronic acid is found in the percellular gel in the matrix of connective tissues of vertebrate organs, such as the dermis and epithelial tissues, specifically in the epidermis, in the synovial fluid of joints, in the vitreous humor, in the human umbilical cord, and in the crest process.

[0186] Thus, the term "hyaluronic acid and its derivatives" includes all fractions or subunits of hyaluronic acid having molecular weights especially within the molecular weight ranges envisaged above.

[0187] In the context of the present invention, hyaluronic acid fractions that do not have inflammatory activity are preferably used.

[0188] As an example of various hyaluronic acid fractions, reference may be made to the article "Hyaluronan fragments: an information-rich system", R. Stern et al., European Journal of Cell Biology 58 (2006) pp. 699-715, which reviews the enumerated biological activities of hyaluronic acid according to its molecular weight.

[0189] According to a preferred embodiment of the present invention, the hyaluronic acid fraction suitable for use in the present invention has a molecular weight between 50,000 Da and 5,000,000 Da, in particular between 100,000 Da and 5,000,000 Da, and more particularly between 400,000 Da and 5,000,000 Da, in which case the term used is high molecular weight hyaluronic acid.

[0190] Alternatively, hyaluronic acid fractions that may be suitable for use within the present invention have a molecular weight between 50,000 Da and 400,000 Da, in which case the term used is intermediate molecular weight hyaluronic acid.

[0191] Additionally or alternatively, hyaluronic acid fractions that may be suitable for use within the present invention have a molecular weight of less than 50,000 Da, in which case the term used is low molecular weight hyaluronic acid.

[0192] Finally, the term "hyaluronic acid and its derivatives" also includes hyaluronic acid esters, in particular those in which all or part of the carboxylic acid groups of the acid functions are esterified with oxyethylenated alkyls or alcohols, containing 1 to 20 carbon atoms, in particular with a degree of substitution at the level of D-glucuronic acid of hyaluronic acid ranging from 0.5 to 50%.

[0193] Mention may in particular be made of the methyl, ethyl, n-propyl, n-pentyl, benzyl and dodecyl esters of hyaluronic acid. Such esters are described in detail in D. Campoccia et al., "Semisynthetic resorbable materials from hyaluronan esterification", Biomaterials 19 (1998) pp. 2101-2127.

[0194] The hyaluronic acid derivative may be, for example, acetylated hyaluronic acid or a salt thereof.

[0195] The molecular weights given above are also valid for hyaluronic acid esters.

[0196] Specifically, hyaluronic acid is sold by Hyactive under the trade name CPN (MW: 10-150 kDa) and by Soliance under the trade name Cristalhyal (MW: 1.1×10 6 ), supplied by Bioland under the name Nutra HA (MW: 820,000 Da), by Bioland under the name Nutra AF (MW: 69,000 Da), by Bioland under the name Oligo HA (MW: 6100 Da), or by Vam Farmacos Metica under the name D Factor (MW: 380 Da).

[0197] The amount of (e) the anionic polymer in the composition according to the present invention may be 0.001% by weight or more, preferably 0.005% by weight or more, more preferably 0.01% by weight or more, based on the total weight of the composition.

[0198] The amount of (e) anionic polymer in the composition according to the present invention may be up to 15% by weight, preferably up to 10% by weight, more preferably up to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0199] The amount of the (e) anionic polymer in the composition according to the present invention may be from 0.001% by mass to 15% by mass, preferably from 0.005% by mass to 10% by mass, and more preferably from 0.01% by mass to 5% by mass, relative to the total mass of the composition.

[0200] (fatty acid) The composition according to the invention may comprise (f) at least one fatty acid. When two or more fatty acids are used, they may be the same or different.

[0201] The term "fatty acid" as used herein means a carboxylic acid having a long chain of aliphatic carbons.

[0202] (f) The fatty acid has at least 4 carbon atoms, preferably at least 6 carbon atoms, more preferably at least 8 carbon atoms. (f) The fatty acid may contain up to 26 carbon atoms, preferably up to 24 carbon atoms, more preferably up to 22 carbon atoms. (f) The fatty acid may be C 4 ~C 26 Fatty acids, more preferably C 6 ~C 24 Fatty acids, even more preferably C 8 ~C 22 It is preferably selected from fatty acids.

[0203] The (f) fatty acid may be selected from saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched fatty acids. Thus, the (f) fatty acid may be selected from C 4 ~C 26 , preferably C 6 ~C 24 , more preferably C 8 ~C 22 They may be chosen from saturated and unsaturated, straight-chain or branched fatty acids.

[0204] As the unsaturated linear or branched fatty acid, monounsaturated linear or branched fatty acid or polyunsaturated linear or branched fatty acid may be used. The unsaturated portion of the unsaturated linear or branched fatty acid may include a carbon-carbon double bond or a carbon-carbon triple bond.

[0205] Examples of saturated fatty acids include caprylic acid (C 8 ), pelargonic acid (C 9 ), Capric acid (C 10 ), lauric acid (C 12 ), myristic acid (C 14 ), pentadecanoic acid (C 15 ), palmitic acid (C 16 ), heptadecanoic acid (C 17 ), stearic acid (C 18 ), Isostearic acid (C 18 ), nonadecanoic acid (C 19 ), arachidic acid (C 20 ), behenic acid (C 22 ), and lignoceric acid (C 24 ) can be mentioned.

[0206] Examples of unsaturated fatty acids include myristoleic acid (C 14 ), palmitoleic acid (C 16 ), oleic acid (C 18 ), linoleic acid (C 18 ), linoleic acid (C 18 ), elaidic acid (C 18 ), arachidonic acid (C 20 ), eicosenoic acid (C 20 ), erucic acid (C 22 ), and nervonic acid (C 24 ) can be mentioned.

[0207] (f) Fatty acids are C 8 ~C 18 It is preferred to select from saturated or unsaturated, straight or branched chain fatty acids, more preferably from the group consisting of caprylic acid, capric acid, oleic acid, linoleic acid, stearic acid, isostearic acid and mixtures thereof.

[0208] (f) The fatty acid may be in the form of its free acid or its salt. The salt of the fatty acid may include inorganic salts, such as alkali metal salts (sodium salt, potassium salt, etc.) and alkaline earth metal salts (magnesium salt, calcium salt, etc.), as well as organic salts, such as ammonium salts (quaternary ammonium salts, etc.) and amine salts (triethanolamine salt, triethylamine salt, etc.). A single type of fatty acid salt or a combination of different types of fatty acid salts may be used. Furthermore, a combination of one or more fatty acids in the form of free acid and one or more fatty acids in the form of salt may be used, and one or more types of salt may be used.

[0209] The amount of (f) fatty acid in the composition according to the present invention may be 0.01% by weight or more, preferably 0.05% by weight or more, more preferably 0.1% by weight or more, based on the total weight of the composition. It may even be more preferable that the amount of (f) fatty acid in the composition according to the present invention is 1% by weight or more, based on the total weight of the composition.

[0210] On the other hand, the amount of (f) fatty acid in the composition according to the present invention may be 15% by mass or less, preferably 10% by mass or less, more preferably 5% by mass or less, based on the total mass of the composition. It may be even more preferable that the amount of (f) fatty acid in the composition according to the present invention is 4% by mass or less, based on the total mass of the composition.

[0211] Accordingly, the amount of (f) fatty acid in the composition according to the present invention may be in the range of 0.01% to 15% by mass, preferably 0.05% to 10% by mass, more preferably 0.1% to 5% by mass, based on the total mass of the composition. It may even be more preferred that the amount of (f) fatty acid in the composition according to the present invention is 1% to 4% by mass, based on the total mass of the composition.

[0212] (Organo-modified clay) The composition according to the invention may comprise (g) at least one organically modified clay. When two or more organically modified clays are used, they may be the same or different.

[0213] By organically modified clays is meant clays that have been treated with organic compounds, in particular selected from quaternary and tertiary amines, whereby the original interlayer cations are exchanged for organic cations, typically quaternary or tertiary alkyl ammonium ions, to produce an organophilic surface containing covalently bound organic moieties.

[0214] (g) Organically modified clays may be present between the fatty phase and the aqueous phase in order to stabilise the aqueous phase in the compositions according to the invention.

[0215] (g) It may be preferred that the organically modified clay is in the form of particles.

[0216] Organically modified clays that may be mentioned include organically modified bentonites and hectorites, such as the product sold under the name Bentone 34 by the company Rheox, and organically modified hectorites, such as the product sold under the names Bentone 27 (stearalkonium hectorite) and Bentone 38 (disteardimonium hectorite) by the company Rheox, and the product sold under the name MP250 (stearalkonium bentonite) by the company BYK Additives & Instrumentals.

[0217] Modified clays which may be mentioned in particular are, for example, modified magnesium silicate (Bentone gel VS38 from Rheox), modified hectorite, e.g. 10 ~C 22 Hectorite modified with fatty acid ammonium chloride, for example hectorite modified with distearyldimethylammonium chloride, such as the product sold under the name Bentone 38VCG by the company Elementis, or the product sold under the name Bentone 38 CE by the company Rheox, or the product sold under the name Bentone Gel V55V by the company Elementis.

[0218] (g) The organically modified clay is preferably selected from organically modified bentonite, organically modified hectorite, and mixtures thereof. (g) The organically modified clay may include disteardimonium hectorite.

[0219] (g) The organically modified clay is preferably treated with a compound selected in particular from quaternary amines and tertiary amines.

[0220] The amount of (g) organically modified clay in the composition according to the present invention may be 0.01% by mass or more, preferably 0.05% by mass or more, more preferably 0.1% by mass or more, based on the total mass of the composition.

[0221] The amount of (g) organically modified clay in the composition according to the present invention may be 15% by mass or less, preferably 10% by mass or less, more preferably 5% by mass or less, based on the total mass of the composition.

[0222] The amount of (g) organically modified clay in the composition according to the present invention may be 0.01% by mass to 15% by mass, preferably 0.05% by mass to 10% by mass, and more preferably 0.1% by mass to 5% by mass, based on the total mass of the composition.

[0223] (pH) The pH of the composition according to the present invention may be 3-9, preferably 3.3-8.5, and more preferably 3.5-8.

[0224] At pH 3-9, (a) a cationic polymer or a complex of (a) a cationic polymer and (b) a non-polymeric acid or a salt thereof having two or more pKa values ​​can be very stable.

[0225] The pH of the composition according to the present invention can be adjusted by adding at least one alkaline agent and / or at least one acid other than (b) a non-polymeric acid or a salt thereof having two or more pKa values. The pH of the composition according to the present invention can also be adjusted by adding at least one buffering agent.

[0226] (Alkaline agent) The composition according to the present invention may comprise at least one alkaline agent. Two or more alkaline agents may be used in combination. Thus, a single type of alkaline agent or a combination of different types of alkaline agents may be used.

[0227] The alkaline agent may be an inorganic alkaline agent, preferably selected from the group consisting of ammonia, alkali metal hydroxides, alkaline earth metal hydroxides, alkali metal phosphates and monohydrogen phosphates, such as sodium phosphate or sodium monohydrogen phosphate.

[0228] Examples of inorganic alkali metal hydroxides include sodium hydroxide and potassium hydroxide. Examples of alkaline earth metal hydroxides include calcium hydroxide and magnesium hydroxide. As the inorganic alkaline agent, sodium hydroxide is preferred.

[0229] The alkaline agent may be an organic alkaline agent, which is preferably selected from the group consisting of monoamines and their derivatives, diamines and their derivatives, polyamines and their derivatives, basic amino acids and their derivatives, oligomers of basic amino acids and their derivatives, polymers of basic amino acids and their derivatives, urea and its derivatives, and guanidine and its derivatives.

[0230] Examples of organic alkaline agents include alkanolamines, such as mono-, di-, and triethanolamine, and isopropanolamine, urea, guanidine and their derivatives, basic amino acids, such as ornithine, and diamines, such as those having the following structures:

[0231] [ka]

[0232] (Wherein, R is a hydroxyl group or C 1 ~C4 R represents an alkylene, such as propylene, optionally substituted with an alkyl group; 1 , R 2 , R 3 and R 4 are independently a hydrogen atom, an alkyl group or C 1 ~C 4 (representing a hydroxyalkyl group) and can be exemplified by 1,3-propanediamine and its derivatives.

[0233] The alkaline agent can be used in a total amount of 0.01% by mass to 15% by mass, preferably 0.02% by mass to 10% by mass, and more preferably 0.03% by mass to 5% by mass, based on the total mass of the composition, depending on the solubility thereof.

[0234] (acid) The composition according to the invention may comprise at least one acid. Two or more acids may be used in combination. Thus, a single type of acid or a combination of different types of acids may be used.

[0235] The acid may include any inorganic or organic acid commonly used in cosmetics, preferably inorganic acid. Monobasic and / or polybasic acids may be used. Monobasic acids such as citric acid, lactic acid, sulfuric acid, phosphoric acid, and hydrochloric acid (HCl) may be used. Lactic acid may be preferred.

[0236] The acids can be used in a total amount of 0.01% by mass to 15% by mass, preferably 0.02% by mass to 10% by mass, and more preferably 0.03% by mass to 5% by mass, based on the total mass of the composition, depending on their solubility.

[0237] (Optional Ingredients) In addition to the above-mentioned components, the composition according to the present invention may contain optional components typically used in cosmetics, specifically, organic or inorganic UV screening agents, surfactants / emulsifiers, for example, (a) hydrophilic or lipophilic thickeners derived from synthetic polymers other than cationic polymers, volatile or non-volatile organic solvents such as ethanol, amphoteric polymers, nonionic polymers such as β-glucans, (e) silicones and silicone derivatives other than oils, (a) cationic polymers or (d) natural extracts derived from animals or plants other than oils, waxes, etc., within the range that does not impair the effects of the present invention.

[0238] The composition according to the present invention may contain the above-mentioned optional additives in an amount of 0.01% by mass to 30% by mass, preferably 0.05% by mass to 20% by mass, and more preferably 0.1% by mass to 10% by mass, relative to the total mass of the composition.

[0239] The composition according to the invention may contain very limited amounts of surfactants / emulsifiers and / or synthetic thickeners and / or organic solvents, taking into account environmental compatibility.

[0240] The amount of surfactants / emulsifiers and / or synthetic thickeners and / or organic solvents in the composition according to the invention may be up to 1% by weight, preferably up to 0.1% by weight, more preferably up to 0.01% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. It is particularly preferred that the composition according to the invention does not contain any surfactants / emulsifiers or synthetic thickeners or organic solvents.

[0241] [Preparation] The composition according to the present invention can be prepared by mixing the essential components described above and, if necessary, the optional components described above.

[0242] The method and means for mixing the above essential components and optional components are not limited. Any conventional method and means can be used to mix the above essential components and optional components to prepare the composition according to the present invention.

[0243] The composition according to the present invention can be prepared by simple or easy mixing with conventional mixing means such as stirrers and homogenizers, and heating may not be required. Therefore, the preparation method of the composition according to the present invention can be environmentally friendly.

[0244] [Beauty use] The composition according to the present invention may be intended to be used as a cosmetic composition. Thus, the cosmetic composition according to the present invention may be intended to be applied onto keratinous materials. Keratinous materials herein mean materials that contain keratin as the main component, examples of which include skin, scalp, nails, lips, hair, etc. Therefore, it is preferred that the cosmetic composition according to the present invention is used for a cosmetic method for keratinous materials, particularly skin.

[0245] Therefore, the cosmetic composition according to the present invention may be a skin cosmetic composition, preferably a skin care composition or a skin make-up composition, more preferably a skin care composition.

[0246] [form] The compositions according to the invention comprise a plurality of aqueous and fatty phases, the aqueous phases being dispersed in the fatty phases, such that the aqueous phases can function as dispersed or discontinuous phases and the fatty phases can function as continuous phases.

[0247] The aqueous phase comprises (a) a cationic polymer, (b) a non-polymeric acid or a salt thereof having two or more pKa values, and (c) water. When the composition according to the present invention comprises (e) an anionic polymer, the aqueous phase can comprise (e) an anionic polymer.

[0248] The fatty phase comprises (d) an oil. When the composition according to the present invention comprises (f) a fatty acid and / or (g) an organomodified clay, the fatty phase may comprise (f) a fatty phase and / or (g) an organomodified clay.

[0249] The amount of aqueous phase in the composition according to the present invention may be from 30% to 70% by weight, preferably from 35% to 65% by weight, more preferably from 40% to 60% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0250] The amount of fatty phase in the composition according to the invention may be from 30% to 70% by weight, preferably from 35% to 65% by weight, more preferably from 40% to 60% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0251] [Coating] The composition according to the present invention can be used to easily prepare a coating.

[0252] The present invention therefore also relates to a method for preparing a film, preferably a decorative film, optionally having a thickness of more than 0.5 μm, more preferably 1.0 μm or more, even more preferably 1.5 μm or more, comprising: applying a composition according to the invention onto a substrate, preferably a keratinous material, more preferably the skin; drying the composition; The present invention may also relate to a method, comprising:

[0253] The upper limit of the thickness of the coating according to the present invention is not limited. Thus, for example, the thickness of the coating according to the present invention may be 1 mm or less, preferably 500 μm or less, more preferably 300 μm or less, and even more preferably 100 μm or less.

[0254] Since the method for preparing a film according to the present invention includes a step of applying the composition according to the present invention onto a substrate, preferably a keratinous material, more preferably onto the skin, and a step of drying the composition, the method according to the present invention does not require any spin coating or spraying, and therefore, even a relatively thick film can be easily prepared. Therefore, the method for preparing a film according to the present invention can prepare a relatively thick film without using any special equipment such as a spin coater or a spray machine.

[0255] Even if the film according to the invention is relatively thick, it can still be thin and transparent and therefore not easily perceptible, so that the film according to the invention can preferably be used as a cosmetic film.

[0256] If the substrate is not a keratinous material such as skin, the composition according to the present invention can be applied onto the substrate made of any material other than keratin. The material of the non-keratinous substrate is not limited. Two or more materials may be used in combination. Thus, a single type of material or a combination of different types of materials can be used. In any case, it is preferred that the substrate is flexible or elastic.

[0257] If the substrate is not a keratinous material, it is preferred that the substrate is water-soluble, since the coating according to the invention can be removed by washing the substrate with water. Examples of water-soluble materials include poly(meth)acrylic acid, polyethylene glycol, polyacrylamide, polyvinyl alcohol (PVA), starch, cellulose acetate, etc. PVA is preferred.

[0258] When the non-keratin substrate is in the form of a sheet, the substrate may have a thickness greater than that of the coating according to the present invention in order to facilitate handling of the coating attached to the substrate sheet. The thickness of the non-keratin substrate sheet is not limited, but may be 1 μm to 5 mm, preferably 10 μm to 1 mm, more preferably 50 to 500 μm.

[0259] It is more preferred that the film according to the present invention is removable from the non-keratin substrate. The manner of removal is not limited. Thus, the film according to the present invention may be peeled off from the non-keratin substrate, or may be removed by dissolving the substrate sheet in a solvent such as water.

[0260] The present invention also provides (1) A film, preferably a decorative film, optionally having a thickness of preferably more than 0.5 μm, more preferably 1.0 μm or more, even more preferably 1.5 μm or more, applying a composition according to the invention onto a substrate, preferably a keratinous material, more preferably the skin; and drying the composition A coating prepared by a method comprising: (2) A coating, preferably a decorative coating, optionally having a thickness of preferably more than 0.5 μm, more preferably 1.0 μm or more, even more preferably 1.5 μm or more, (a) at least one cationic polymer selected from the group consisting of chitosan, polylysine, and mixtures thereof, preferably chitosan; (b) at least one non-polymeric acid or salt thereof having two or more pKa values; and (d) at least one oil A coating containing It may also relate to.

[0261] The coating may also include (e) at least one anionic polymer and / or (f) at least one fatty acid and / or (g) at least one organically modified clay.

[0262] The above discussion of optional ingredients such as (a) cationic polymer, (b) non-polymeric acid having two or more pKa values ​​or its salt, and (d) oil, as well as (e) anionic polymer, (f) fatty acid, and (g) organically modified clay, can be applied to the above coatings (1) and (2).

[0263] The film thus obtained above may be self-supporting. The term "self-supporting" as used herein means that the film can be in the form of a sheet and can be handled as an independent sheet without the aid of a substrate or support. Therefore, the term "self-supporting" can have the same meaning as "self-supporting".

[0264] Coatings according to the present invention are preferably hydrophobic.

[0265] The term "hydrophobic" in this specification means that the solubility of the film in water (preferably in a volume of 1 liter) at 20 to 40° C., preferably 25 to 40° C., more preferably 30 to 40° C. is less than 10% by mass, preferably less than 5% by mass, more preferably less than 1% by mass, and even more preferably less than 0.1% by mass relative to the total mass of the film at 20 to 40° C., preferably 25 to 40° C., and more preferably 30 to 40° C. It is most preferable that the film is not soluble in water.

[0266] When the film according to the present invention is hydrophobic, the film can have water-resistant properties and can therefore remain on the keratinous material, such as the skin, even when the surface of the keratinous material is wet, for example, from sweat and rain, so that when the film according to the present invention provides any cosmetic benefit, the cosmetic benefit can last for a long time.

[0267] On the other hand, the film according to the present invention can be easily removed from keratinous materials such as skin under alkaline conditions such as pH 8 to 12, preferably 9 to 11. Thus, the film according to the present invention is difficult to remove with water, but on the other hand, the film can be easily removed with a soap that can provide such alkaline conditions.

[0268] The coating according to the present invention may comprise at least one biocompatible and / or biodegradable polymer layer. Two or more biocompatible and / or biodegradable polymers may be used in combination. Thus, a single type of biocompatible and / or biodegradable polymer or a combination of different types of biocompatible and / or biodegradable polymers may be used.

[0269] As used herein, the term "biocompatible" polymer means that the polymer does not have excessive interactions between the polymer and cells in the body, including the skin, and the polymer is not recognized as foreign by the body.

[0270] As used herein, the term "biodegradable" polymer means that the polymer can be broken down or broken down in vivo, for example by the metabolism of the organism itself or by the metabolism of microorganisms that may be present in the organism. Biodegradable polymers can also be broken down by hydrolysis.

[0271] When a coating according to the present invention comprises a biocompatible and / or biodegradable polymer, the coating may cause little or no irritation to the skin and / or may not pollute the environment.

[0272] Indeed, the coating according to the invention may comprise (a) at least one cationic polymer chosen from chitosan and / or polylysine, both of which are biodegradable polymers, and therefore the coating according to the invention may be environmentally compatible.

[0273] In addition, the use of biocompatible and / or biodegradable polymers allows the cosmetic sheet according to the present invention to adhere well to the skin.

[0274] The film according to the present invention can be used for the cosmetic treatment of keratinous materials, preferably skin, especially face.The film according to the present invention can be in any shape or form.For example, the film can be used as a full face mask sheet, or a patch for a part of face, such as cheek, nose, and around the eyes.

[0275] [Cosmetic methods and uses] The present invention also provides A cosmetic method for keratinous materials such as the skin, comprising the steps of applying a composition according to the invention to the keratinous materials and drying the composition to form a cosmetic film on the keratinous materials, or Use of the composition according to the invention for preparing a cosmetic film on a keratinous material such as the skin Also relates to.

[0276] Cosmetic method means herein a non-therapeutic cosmetic method for caring for and / or making up the surfaces of keratinous materials such as the skin.

[0277] In both the above method and use, the above decorative film is resistant to water having a pH of 7 or less and is removable with water having a pH of above 7, preferably 8 or more, more preferably 9 or more.

[0278] In other words, the decorative film may be water-resistant under neutral or acidic conditions, such as a pH of 7 or less, preferably in the range of ≧6 and ≦7, more preferably in the range of ≧5 and ≦7, but the decorative film can be removed under alkaline conditions, such as a pH of more than 7, preferably ≧8, more preferably ≧9. The upper limit of the pH is preferably 13, more preferably 12, even more preferably 11.

[0279] Accordingly, the cosmetic film may be water-resistant, and therefore may remain on the keratinous material, such as the skin, even when the surface of the keratinous material is wet, for example, by sweat and rain. On the other hand, the cosmetic film may be easily removed from the keratinous material, such as the skin, under alkaline conditions. Thus, the film according to the present invention is difficult to remove with water, but on the other hand, the film may be easily removed with a soap that can provide alkaline conditions.

[0280] When said cosmetic film comprises a UV filter, which may be present in the composition according to the invention, said cosmetic film can protect keratinous materials such as skin from UV rays, thereby reducing skin darkening, improving skin tone and evenness, and / or treating skin aging.

[0281] Furthermore, the cosmetic film may have cosmetic benefits such as trapping sebum, imparting a matte appearance to keratinous substrates such as skin, absorbing or adsorbing malodors, and / or protecting keratinous substrates from, for example, dirt or pollutants, even if the cosmetic film does not contain any cosmetic active ingredients.

[0282] In addition, the cosmetic film can instantly change or modify the appearance of the skin by changing the light reflection on the skin, even if the cosmetic film does not contain any cosmetic active ingredient. Therefore, the cosmetic film can potentially hide skin defects such as pores or wrinkles. Furthermore, the cosmetic film can instantly change or modify the feel of the skin by changing the surface roughness on the skin, etc. Furthermore, the cosmetic film can instantly protect the skin from environmental stresses, such as pollutants, impurities, etc., by covering the surface of the skin as a barrier and shielding the skin.

[0283] The cosmetic benefits can be adjusted or controlled by varying the chemical composition, thickness and / or surface roughness of the cosmetic coating.

[0284] When the cosmetic film includes at least one additional cosmetic active ingredient other than (d) oil, the cosmetic film can have a cosmetic effect brought about by the additional cosmetic active ingredient. For example, when the cosmetic film includes at least one cosmetic active ingredient selected from an anti-aging agent, a sebum suppressant, a deodorant agent, an antiperspirant, a whitening agent, and a mixture thereof, the cosmetic film can treat skin aging, absorb sebum on the skin, control odor on the skin, control sweat on the skin, and / or whiten the skin.

[0285] It is also possible to apply a make-up cosmetic composition onto the cosmetic film or cosmetic sheet according to the present invention after application onto the skin.

[0286] The present invention also provides a composition for providing good hydration to keratinous materials such as the skin, comprising: (c) water A plurality of aqueous phases comprising: (d) at least one oil A fat phase containing wherein the aqueous phase is dispersed in the fatty phase, (a) at least one cationic polymer selected from the group consisting of chitosan, polylysine, and mixtures thereof, preferably chitosan; and (b) at least one non-polymeric acid or salt thereof having two or more pKa values; It may also relate to the use of

[0287] The use according to the invention may also provide anti-stickiness and / or anti-transfer and / or anti-adhesive properties to keratinous materials such as the skin.

[0288] The composition may also comprise (e) at least one anionic polymer and / or (f) at least one fatty acid and / or (g) at least one organically modified clay. When the composition comprises (f) at least one fatty acid, the color transfer prevention can be further enhanced.

[0289] The above discussion regarding (a) cationic polymer, (b) non-polymeric acid having two or more pKa values ​​or its salt, (c) water and (d) oil, and optional ingredients such as (e) anionic polymer, (f) fatty acid, and (g) organically modified clay, is applicable in the above uses. EXAMPLES

[0290] The present invention will now be described in a more detailed manner by means of examples, which should not, however, be construed as limiting the scope of the present invention.

[0291] (Examples 1 to 6 and Comparative Examples 1 to 5) [Preparation] Each of the compositions according to Examples 1 to 6 and Comparative Examples 1 to 5 was prepared by mixing the components shown in Tables 1 to 4. All numerical values ​​for the amounts of components in Tables 1 to 4 are based on "mass %" of the raw materials.

[0292] The preparation details are as follows.

[0293] First, all the components of the oily phase were mixed thoroughly. Meanwhile, the aqueous phase was prepared separately by the following method: first, polyanion (sodium hyaluronate and sodium carboxymethylcellulose, if present) was dissolved in water. Then, polycation (polylysine or chitosan) and crosslinker (phytic acid) were added to prepare polyion complex gel particles (PGP). After adding all other components of the aqueous phase, the aqueous phase was added to the oily phase and emulsified to form a W / O type composition. In the case of Examples 3-5 and Comparative Examples 2-3, ethanol was added after emulsification.

[0294] [Table 1]

[0295] [Table 2]

[0296] [Table 3]

[0297] [Table 4]

[0298] [evaluation] (hydration) Hydration was evaluated by comparing the stratum corneum hydration (SCH) values ​​of bare skin before and 4 hours after application of each of the compositions according to Examples 1-6 and Comparative Examples 1-4.

[0299] The SCH was measured using a GP SKIN device (manufactured by GPOWER Inc.) as an evaluation device.

[0300] First, the (a) SCH value of the panelist's forearm was measured. Then, 50 mg of each of the compositions according to Examples 1 to 6 and Comparative Examples 1 to 4 was applied to the forearm (5 x 5 cm). After 4 hours, the composition was wiped off, and the (b) SCH value of the forearm was measured again. The difference [(b)-(a)] between the SCH values ​​before and 4 hours after application was calculated. The difference indicating hydration was evaluated according to the following criteria: Good: Difference is greater than control Poor: Same as control

[0301] For controls, see Tables 1-4.

[0302] The measured SCH values ​​and the results of the above evaluations are shown in Tables 1 to 4.

[0303] (Prevents stickiness and transfer onto masks) 200 mg of the composition according to Example 1 or 2 was applied to half of the face of two panelists. 200 mg of the composition according to Comparative Example 1 was also applied to the other half of the face of two panelists as a control. A conventional foundation was then applied to the face, and a nonwoven mask was attached to the face.

[0304] After 8 hours, the stickiness of the skin was visually evaluated by an expert by checking the degree of shininess of the facial skin. Also, the transfer of the color onto the mask was visually evaluated by an expert by checking the degree of transfer of the color onto the mask. Very good: Stickiness / transfer onto mask is significantly less than the control Good: Less stickiness / transfer onto mask than control Poor: Same as control

[0305] The results are shown in Table 1 under the columns "Prevents stickiness" and "Prevents transfer to mask."

[0306] (Adhesiveness Evaluation) Each composition according to Example 6, Comparative Example 4 or Comparative Example 5 was applied onto the skin of three panelists. The composition according to Comparative Example 5 was used as a control. The adhesion of the applied skin was evaluated by the three panelists according to the following criteria: Good: less sticky than the control Poor: Same as control Very poor: worse than control

[0307] The results are shown in Table 4.

[0308] (Summary) According to Table 1, by comparing Example 1 with Comparative Example, it can be seen that Example 1, by having polycation, polyanion, and crosslinker, exhibited better hydration, anti-stickiness, and anti-transfer onto mask than Comparative Example 1. Furthermore, by adding fatty acid (oleic acid) (see Example 2), the anti-transfer onto mask property was enhanced.

[0309] According to Table 2, by comparing Example 3 or 4 with Comparative Example 2, it can be seen that Example 3 or 4, by having a polycation, a polyanion and a crosslinking agent, showed better hydration than Comparative Example 2. When chitosan was used instead of polylysine as the polycation (see Example 4), the hydration was further enhanced.

[0310] According to Table 3, by comparing Example 5 with Comparative Example 3, it can be seen that Example 5, which has a polycation (polylysine) and a crosslinker (phytic acid) in addition to polyanions (sodium hyaluronate and sodium CMC), exhibits better hydration than Comparative Example 3, which contains only polyanions.

[0311] According to Table 4, by comparing Example 6 with Comparative Example 4, it can be seen that Example 6, which has a polycation (polylysine) and a crosslinker (phytic acid) in addition to a polyanion (sodium hyaluronate), exhibits better hydration than Comparative Example 4, which contains only a polyanion.

[0312] In addition, by comparing Comparative Example 4 and Comparative Example 5 in Table 4, it can be confirmed that the adhesion was deteriorated by having only polyanion (sodium hyaluronate). However, by adding polycation and crosslinker (see Example 6), the adhesion was reduced. It can be presumed that the adhesion mainly caused by glycerin was concealed by having a glyceryl gel network consisting of polycation, crosslinker, polyanion, and glycerin. However, with only polyanion, it is not possible to create any glycerin gel network, and the adhesion is further strengthened.

Claims

1. A composition, preferably a cosmetic composition, more preferably a cosmetic composition for keratinous substances such as skin, (a) at least one cationic polymer, (b) at least one nonpolymeric acid or salt thereof having two or more pKa values, (c) water Multiple aqueous phases including, (d) at least one type of oil Fat phase including Includes, The aqueous phase is dispersed in the fatty phase. (a) The cationic polymer is selected from the group consisting of chitosan, polylysine, and mixtures thereof, and is preferably selected from chitosan. composition.

2. The composition according to claim 1, wherein the amount of (a) cationic polymer in the composition is 0.01% to 15% by mass, preferably 0.05% to 10% by mass, and more preferably 0.1% to 5% by mass, based on the total mass of the composition.

3. (b) The composition according to claim 1, wherein the nonpolymeric acid or salt thereof having two or more pKa values ​​is an organic acid or salt thereof, preferably a hydrophilic or water-soluble organic acid or salt thereof, more preferably phytic acid or salt thereof.

4. The composition according to claim 1, wherein the amount of (b) a nonpolymeric acid or salt thereof having two or more pKa values ​​in the composition is 0.001% to 10% by mass, preferably 0.003% to 5% by mass, and more preferably 0.005% to 1% by mass, based on the total mass of the composition.

5. The composition according to claim 1, wherein the amount of (c) water in the composition is 10% to 50% by mass, preferably 15% to 45% by mass, and more preferably 20% to 40% by mass, based on the total mass of the composition.

6. The composition according to claim 1, wherein the amount of (d) oil in the composition is 10% to 50% by mass, preferably 15% to 45% by mass, and more preferably 20% to 40% by mass, based on the total mass of the composition.

7. The composition according to claim 1, wherein the aqueous phase further comprises (e) at least one anionic polymer.

8. (e) The composition according to claim 7, wherein the anionic polymer is selected from the group consisting of polysaccharides, such as alginic acid, hyaluronic acid and cellulose polymers, anionic (co)polyamino acids, such as (co)polyglutamic acid, (co)poly(meth)acrylic acid, (co)polyamic acid, (co)polystyrene sulfonate, (co)poly(vinyl sulfate), dextran sulfate, chondroitin sulfate, (co)polymaleic acid, polyfumaric acid, maleic acid (co)polymer, and salts thereof.

9. The composition according to claim 7, wherein the amount of (e) anionic polymer in the composition is 0.001% to 15% by mass, preferably 0.005% to 10% by mass, and more preferably 0.01% to 5% by mass, based on the total mass of the composition.

10. The fat phase is preferably C 4 ~C 26 , more C 6 ~C 24 , even more more C 8 ~C 22 The composition according to claim 1, further comprising (f) at least one fatty acid selected from saturated and unsaturated linear or branched fatty acids.

11. The composition according to claim 10, wherein the amount of (f) fatty acid in the composition is 0.01% to 15% by mass, preferably 0.05% to 10% by mass, and more preferably 0.1% to 5% by mass, based on the total mass of the composition.

12. The composition according to claim 1, wherein the fatty phase further comprises (g) at least one organically modified clay mineral, preferably organically modified hectorite, more preferably disteardimonium hectorite.

13. The composition according to claim 1, wherein the amount of aqueous phase in the composition is 30% to 70% by mass, preferably 35% to 65% by mass, and more preferably 40% to 60% by mass, based on the total mass of the composition.

14. The composition according to claim 1, wherein the amount of fatty phase in the composition is 30% to 70% by mass, preferably 35% to 65% by mass, and more preferably 40% to 60% by mass, based on the total mass of the composition.

15. A cosmetic method for keratinous substances in the skin, etc. A step of applying the composition according to any one of claims 1 to 14 to a keratin substance, The process involves drying the composition to form a cosmetic film on the keratin material. Methods that include...