Composition containing hydrophobized cationic polymer
Patent Information
- Authority / Receiving Office
- JP · JP
- Patent Type
- Applications
- Current Assignee / Owner
- LOREAL SA
- Filing Date
- 2023-06-20
- Publication Date
- 2026-06-30
Smart Images

Figure 00000000_0000_ABST
Abstract
Description
[Technical field]
[0001] The present invention relates to compositions comprising at least one hydrophobized cationic polymer, cosmetic methods using the compositions, and films prepared by the compositions. [Background technology]
[0002] Environmentally compatible cosmetic formulations, which are designed and developed with environmental issues in mind, have become a major goal to meet global challenges.
[0003] It is therefore essential to propose more sustainable compositions, preparation methods and ingredients to address these environmental issues.
[0004] In this context, it is important to develop new cosmetic compositions that have a better carbon footprint, in particular by promoting the use of renewable raw materials and / or materials with a good natural index and / or materials of natural origin, more particularly materials of plant origin, while reducing the use of compounds of petrochemical origin.
[0005] Polyion complexes formed from anionic polymers and cationic polymers are already known.
[0006] For example, WO2021 / 125069 discloses a composition useful for cosmetic treatment, comprising at least one cationic polymer, at least one anionic polymer, and at least one polyion complex particle comprising a non-polymeric acid having two or more pKa values. WO2021 / 125069 also discloses that the composition disclosed herein may include an oil and may be in the form of an emulsion. [Prior art documents] [Patent documents]
[0007] [Patent Document 1] WO2021 / 125069 [Patent Document 2] European Patent Application No. 0080976 [Patent Document 3] French Patent No. 2077143 [Patent Document 4] French Patent No. 2393573 [Patent Document 5] French Patent No. 1492597 [Patent Document 6] U.S. Patent No. 4,131,576 [Patent Document 7] U.S. Patent No. 3,589,578 [Patent Document 8] U.S. Patent No. 4,031,307 [Patent Document 9] French Patent No. 2162025 [Patent Document 10] French Patent No. 2280361 [Patent Document 11] French Patent No. 2252840 [Patent Document 12] French Patent No. 2368508 [Patent Document 13] French Patent No. 1,583,363 [Patent Document 14] U.S. Patent No. 3,227,615 [Patent Document 15] U.S. Patent No. 2,961,347 [Patent Document 16] French Patent No. 2080759 [Patent Document 17] French Patent No. 2320330 [Patent Document 18] French Patent No. 2270846 [Patent Document 19] French Patent No. 2316271 [Patent Document 20] French Patent No. 2336434 [Patent Document 21] French Patent No. 2413907 [Patent Document 22] U.S. Patent No. 2,273,780 [Patent Document 23] U.S. Patent No. 2,375,853 [Patent Document 24] U.S. Patent No. 2,388,614 [Patent Document 25] U.S. Patent No. 2,454,547 [Patent Document 26] U.S. Patent No. 3,206,462 [Patent Document 27] U.S. Patent No. 2,261,002 [Patent Document 28] U.S. Patent No. 2,271,378 [Patent Document 29] U.S. Patent No. 3,874,870 [Patent Document 30] U.S. Patent No. 4,001,432 [Patent Document 31] U.S. Patent No. 3,929,990 [Patent Document 32] U.S. Patent No. 3,966,904 [Patent Document 33] U.S. Patent No. 4,005,193 [Patent Document 34] U.S. Patent No. 4,025,617 [Patent Document 35] U.S. Patent No. 4,025,627 [Patent Document 36] U.S. Patent No. 4,025,653 [Patent Document 37] U.S. Patent No. 4,026,945 [Patent Document 38] U.S. Patent No. 4,027,020 [Patent Document 39] European Patent Application No. 0122324 [Patent Document 40] WO03 / 068824 Summary of the Invention [Problem to be solved by the invention]
[0008] A first object of the present invention is to provide a composition that can comprise at least one cationic polymer and at least one fatty acid-based particle, the composition being useful for cosmetic applications.
[0009] Additionally, a second object of the present invention is to provide a composition that can include at least one environmentally compatible ingredient. [Means for solving the problem]
[0010] The above object of the present invention is to (a-1) at least one cationic polymer; (a-2) at least one monovalent non-polymeric acid or a salt thereof, and (b-1) at least one fatty acid A composition, preferably a cosmetic composition, more preferably a dermocosmetic composition, comprising: Optionally, this can be achieved by the composition comprising at least one oil in an amount of less than 1% by weight, preferably less than 0.1% by weight, more preferably less than 0.01% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0011] The (a-1) cationic polymer may have a molecular weight (Da) of more than 20,000.
[0012] The (a-1) cationic polymer may be selected from the group consisting of cyclopolymers of alkyldiallylamine and cyclopolymers of dialkyldiallylammonium, such as (co)polydiallyldialkylammonium chloride, (co)polyamines, such as (co)polylysine and chitosan, cationic (co)polyamino acids, such as collagen, cationic cellulose polymers, and salts thereof.
[0013] The amount of the (a-1) cationic polymer in the composition of the present invention can be 0.01% by mass to 15% by mass, preferably 0.05% by mass to 10% by mass, and more preferably 0.1% by mass to 5% by mass, relative to the total mass of the composition.
[0014] The (a-2) monovalent non-polymeric acid may be a monovalent non-polymeric organic acid, preferably a monovalent non-polymeric carboxylic acid, more preferably a monovalent hydroxy acid, such as lactic acid and salicylic acid.
[0015] The amount of (a-2) monovalent non-polymeric acid or a salt thereof in the composition of the present invention can be 0.01% by mass to 20% by mass, preferably 0.05% by mass to 15% by mass, and more preferably 0.1% by mass to 10% by mass, relative to the total mass of the composition.
[0016] The composition of the present invention may further comprise (a-3) water.
[0017] The amount of (a-3) water in the composition of the present invention may be 40% by mass to 99% by mass, preferably 45% by mass to 97% by mass, and more preferably 50% by mass to 95% by mass, based on the total mass of the composition.
[0018] (b-1) Fatty acids are C4 to C 22 , preferably C6 to C 20 , more preferably C8 to C 18 They may be chosen from saturated and unsaturated, straight-chain or branched fatty acids.
[0019] The amount of the (b-1) fatty acid in the composition of the present invention can be 0.01% by mass to 15% by mass, preferably 0.05% by mass to 10% by mass, and more preferably 0.1% by mass to 5% by mass, relative to the total mass of the composition.
[0020] The composition of the present invention may further comprise (b-2) at least one alcohol, preferably selected from the group consisting of ethanol, pentylene glycol, glycerin, and mixtures thereof, more preferably selected from the group consisting of ethanol, pentylene glycol, and mixtures thereof.
[0021] The amount of the (b-2) alcohol in the composition of the present invention may be 1 mass % to 20 mass %, preferably 3 mass % to 15 mass %, and more preferably 5 mass % to 10 mass %, based on the total mass of the composition.
[0022] The (a-1) cationic polymer and (b-1) fatty acid in the composition of the present invention can form at least one type of complex.
[0023] The present invention also provides a cosmetic method for keratinous materials, such as the skin, comprising the steps of: applying a composition of the present invention to a keratinous material; drying the composition to form a cosmetic film on the keratinous material; The present invention also relates to a cosmetic method including:
[0024] The present invention also relates to a particle comprising (a-1) at least one cationic polymer and (b-1) at least one fatty acid, wherein the (a-1) cationic polymer and the (b-1) fatty acid form at least one complex and can have a particle size of more than 1.0 μm, preferably more than 1.5 μm, more preferably 2.0 μm or more in water at 25° C., and can have a particle size of less than 500 nm, preferably less than 400 nm, more preferably less than 300 nm when dry. [Brief description of the drawings]
[0025] [Figure 1] 1 shows a transmission electron microscope (TEM) image of the composition of Example 1. [Diagram 2] 1 shows a transmission electron microscope (TEM) image of the composition of Example 2. [Diagram 3] 1 shows a transmission electron microscope (TEM) image of the composition of Comparative Example 2. DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE PREFERRED EMBODIMENTS
[0026] After extensive investigation, the inventors have discovered that it is possible to provide a composition comprising at least one cationic polymer and at least one particle based on at least one fatty acid, which is useful for cosmetic applications and may include at least one environmentally compatible ingredient.
[0027] The composition of the present invention comprises (a-1) at least one cationic polymer; (a-2) at least one monovalent non-polymeric acid or a salt thereof, and (b-1) at least one fatty acid Including, The composition optionally comprises at least one oil in an amount of less than 1% by weight, preferably less than 0.1% by weight, more preferably less than 0.01% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0028] The composition of the present invention can form at least one type of particle comprising (a-1) cationic polymer and (b-1) fatty acid. (a-1) cationic polymer and (b-1) fatty acid can form at least one type of complex. The particle may be a gel particle having a size of a typical micron order, such as 0.3 to 10 microns. The particle may be neither linear nor fibrous, but may be in the form of a sphere or sphere. Therefore, the aspect ratio of the particle may be less than 5, preferably less than 3, more preferably less than 2. The "size" of the particle may be the longest diameter of the particle. The size of the particles in the composition can be determined by dynamic light scattering, for example, by using a particle size analyzer such as ELSZ-2000 (Otsuka Electronics Co., Ltd.). The particle size may be based on the volume average diameter.
[0029] The size of the above particles may vary depending on the environment. For example, when the particles are in water at 25°C, the size of the particles may be greater than 1.0 μm, preferably greater than 1.5 μm, more preferably greater than 2.0 μm, such as 0.3 to 10 microns as described above. On the other hand, when the particles are dry, the size of the particles may be less than 500 nm, preferably less than 400 nm, more preferably less than 300 nm. The size of the particles in water can be determined by dynamic light scattering, for example, by using a particle size analyzer such as ELSZ-2000 (Otsuka Electronics Co., Ltd.). The particle size may be based on the volume average diameter. On the other hand, the size of the particles when dry can be determined by a microscope. The particle size may be based on the number average diameter.
[0030] The composition of the present invention may be in the form of a dispersion.
[0031] The composition of the present invention may be in the form of a gel. Furthermore, the composition of the present invention may exhibit a dilatancy effect.
[0032] The compositions of the present invention can provide a good feel (good texture). For example, the compositions of the present invention can provide a smooth feel when the compositions are applied onto a substrate such as a keratinous material (e.g., skin).
[0033] The composition of the present invention can form a film. When the composition of the present invention is applied to a substrate such as a keratinous material (e.g., skin) and dried, the particles in the composition of the present invention can reduce in size and form a continuous film. The film is composed of small particles, and the size of the small particles is on the nano-order (e.g., about 100 nm to about 500 nm). The smaller the size of the particles in the film, the more translucent the film can be.
[0034] The composition of the present invention can provide a blurring effect.When the composition of the present invention is applied onto a substrate such as keratinous material (e.g., skin) and dried, the composition of the present invention can form a film.The film thus formed can blur, i.e., hide unevenness on the skin such as spots, wrinkles and fine lines.
[0035] Accordingly, the compositions of the present invention are useful for cosmetic applications.
[0036] When the (a-1) at least one cationic polymer is obtained from a natural resource, the (a-1) cationic polymer can be an environmentally compatible component. For example, the (a-1) cationic polymer can be selected from environmentally compatible chitosan. Thus, the composition of the present invention can include an environmentally compatible component.
[0037] In addition, components (a-2) and (b-1) can originate from renewable and / or biodegradable materials, such as plants, and therefore the compositions of the present invention can be environmentally compatible.
[0038] The composition may contain at least one oil different from (b-1) fatty acid.However, the amount of oil is limited to be less than 1 mass %, preferably less than 0.1 mass %, more preferably less than 0.01 mass % based on the total mass of the composition.Therefore, the composition of the present invention can reduce the stickiness derived from oil.
[0039] The present invention will now be described in more detail.
[0040] [Composition] The composition of the present invention comprises (a-1) at least one cationic polymer; (a-2) at least one monovalent non-polymeric acid or a salt thereof, and (b-1) at least one fatty acid Including, The composition optionally comprises at least one oil in an amount of less than 1% by weight, preferably less than 0.1% by weight, more preferably less than 0.01% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0041] In the composition of the present invention, at least (a-1) the cationic polymer and (b-1) the fatty acid can form at least one type of complex.
[0042] (a-1) Amino (-NH2) or ammonium (-NH3 + The moiety that can have a positive charge, such as a carboxylic acid (-COOH) or carboxylate (-COOH) group of the (b-1) fatty acid, - ) group to form a complex. The complex contains at least one hydrophobic moiety derived from the fatty part of the (b-1) fatty acid. Thus, the (a-1) cationic polymer can be hydrophobized by the (b-1) fatty acid through the formation of a complex.
[0043] The following diagram shows an example of hydrophobization of chitosan as the (a-1) cationic polymer by (b-1) fatty acid represented by R-COOH, where R represents the fatty portion of the (b-1) fatty acid, i.e., an example of formation of a complex between chitosan as the (a-1) cationic polymer and the (b-1) fatty acid.
[0044] [ka]
[0045] The complex formed by (a-1) the cationic polymer and (b-1) the fatty acid can aggregate to form at least one type of particle due to hydrophobic interactions between the hydrophobic portions of the complex.
[0046] The figure below shows an example of a particle formed by aggregation of a complex formed by (a-1) a cationic polymer (represented by lines) and (b-1) a fatty acid (represented by dots).
[0047] [ka]
[0048] The composition of the present invention forms at least one kind of particle, which comprises (a-1) cationic polymer and (b-1) fatty acid.In other words, (a-1) cationic polymer and (b-1) fatty acid in the composition of the present invention can form at least one kind of particle.The above-mentioned particle is very small, and therefore cannot be recognized by the naked eye.
[0049] Particles comprising (a-1) cationic polymer and (b-1) fatty acid, where (a-1) cationic polymer and (b-1) fatty acid form at least one complex, may have a size of 1 μm or more in water. When dried, the particles may shrink and reduce in size to less than 1 μm, for example, 100 nm to 500 nm. However, when contacted with water again, the particles may recover to have a size of 1 μm or more. In addition, the dried particles may have a core-shell structure, where the core may mainly comprise (a-1) cationic polymer and the shell may mainly comprise (b-1) fatty acid.
[0050] The (a-2) monovalent non-polymeric acid or a salt thereof can interact with the above-mentioned particles, and therefore the above-mentioned particles can also contain the (a-2) monovalent non-polymeric acid or a salt thereof.
[0051] (cationic polymer) The composition of the present invention comprises (a-1) at least one cationic polymer. A single type of cationic polymer may be used, or two or more different types of cationic polymers may be used in combination.
[0052] The cationic polymer has a positive charge density. The charge density of the (a-1) cationic polymer may be 0.01 meq / g to 20 meq / g, preferably 0.05 meq / g to 15 meq / g, and more preferably 0.1 meq / g to 10 meq / g.
[0053] It may be preferable that the molecular weight of the (a-1) cationic polymer is 1,000 or more, preferably 2,000 or more, more preferably 3,000 or more, and even more preferably 4,000 or more.
[0054] It may be particularly preferred that the (a-1) cationic polymer has a molecular weight of more than 20,000.
[0055] Unless otherwise defined in the description, "molecular weight" means weight average molecular weight.
[0056] (a-1) The cationic polymer may have at least one positively charged and / or positively charged moiety selected from the group consisting of primary, secondary or tertiary amino groups, quaternary ammonium groups, guanidine groups, biguanide groups, imidazole groups, imino groups, and pyridyl groups. The term (primary) "amino group" as used herein means an -NH2 group.
[0057] The (a-1) cationic polymer may be a homopolymer or a copolymer. The term "copolymer" is understood to mean both copolymers obtained from two types of monomers and those obtained from more than two types of monomers, for example terpolymers resulting from three types of monomers.
[0058] (a-1) The cationic polymer can be selected from natural and synthetic cationic polymers, preferably natural cationic polymers. Non-limiting examples of cationic polymers are as follows:
[0059] (1) Homopolymers and copolymers derived from esters and amides of acrylic or methacrylic acid and containing at least one unit selected from units of the following formulae:
[0060] [ka]
[0061] (In the formula: R1 and R2 may be the same or different and are selected from hydrogen and alkyl groups containing 1 to 6 carbon atoms, such as methyl and ethyl groups; R3, which may be the same or different, is selected from hydrogen and CH3; the symbols A may be the same or different and are selected from linear or branched alkyl groups containing 1 to 6 carbon atoms, for example 2 to 3 carbon atoms, and hydroxyalkyl groups containing 1 to 4 carbon atoms, R4, R5 and R6 may be the same or different and are selected from alkyl groups containing 1 to 18 carbon atoms, and benzyl groups, and in at least one embodiment alkyl groups containing 1 to 6 carbon atoms; X is an anion derived from an inorganic or organic acid, such as methosulfate and halide ions, such as chloride and bromide.
[0062] The copolymers of family (1) may also contain at least one unit derived from a comonomer, which may be selected from acrylamide, methacrylamide, diacetone acrylamide, acrylamides and methacrylamides in which the nitrogen atom is substituted with a (C1-C4) lower alkyl group, groups derived from acrylic or methacrylic acid and their esters, vinyl lactams such as vinyl pyrrolidone and vinyl caprolactam, and vinyl esters.
[0063] Examples of family (1) copolymers include, but are not limited to, the following: Copolymers of acrylamide and dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate quaternized with dimethyl sulfate or dimethyl halides; Copolymers of acrylamide and methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium chloride, such as those described in European Patent Application No. 0080976; Copolymers of acrylamide and methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium methosulfate, quaternized or non-quaternized vinylpyrrolidone / dialkylaminoalkyl acrylic or methacrylic acid copolymers, such as those described in French Patents Nos. 2 077 143 and 2 393 573, dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate / vinylcaprolactam / vinylpyrrolidone terpolymers, vinylpyrrolidone / methacrylamidopropyl dimethylamine copolymers, quaternized vinylpyrrolidone / dimethylaminopropyl methacrylamide copolymers, and Crosslinked methacryloyloxy(C1-C4)alkyltri(C1-C4)alkylammonium salt polymers, for example those obtained by homopolymerization of dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate quaternized with methyl chloride or by copolymerization of acrylamide and dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate quaternized with methyl chloride, followed by crosslinking with a compound containing olefinic unsaturation, for example methylenebisacrylamide.
[0064] (2) Cationic cellulose polymers, such as the cellulose ether derivatives containing one or more quaternary ammonium groups described in French Patent No. 1 492 597, such as the polymers sold under the names "JR" (JR 400, JR 125, JR 30M) or "LR" (LR 400, LR 30M) by Union Carbide Corporation, which are also defined in the CTFA dictionary as quaternary ammonium of hydroxyethylcellulose reacted with epoxides substituted with trimethylammonium groups.
[0065] It is preferred that the cationic cellulose polymer has at least one quaternary ammonium group, preferably a quaternary trialkylammonium group, more preferably a quaternary trimethylammonium group.
[0066] The quaternary ammonium group may be present in a quaternary ammonium group-containing group, which may be represented by the following chemical formula (I):
[0067] [ka]
[0068] (In the formula, Each of R1 and R2 is C 1~3 represents an alkyl group, preferably a methyl group or an ethyl group, more preferably a methyl group; R3 is C 1~24 represents an alkyl group, preferably a methyl group or an ethyl group, more preferably a methyl group; X - represents an anion, preferably a halide ion, more preferably a chloride ion, n represents an integer of 0 to 30, preferably 0 to 10, and more preferably 0; R4 is C 1~4 It represents an alkylene group, preferably an ethylene group or a propylene group.
[0069] The left-most ether linkage (-O-) in the above chemical formula (I) can be attached to a sugar ring of a polysaccharide.
[0070] The quaternary ammonium group-containing group is -O-CH2-CH(OH)-CH2-N + It is preferably (CH3)3.
[0071] (3) Cationic cellulose polymers such as cellulose copolymers and cellulose derivatives grafted with quaternary ammonium water-soluble monomers, for example those described in U.S. Pat. No. 4,131,576, such as hydroxyalkylcelluloses grafted with salts selected from methacryloylethyltrimethylammonium, methacrylamidepropyltrimethylammonium, and dimethyldiallylammonium salts, for example hydroxymethyl-, hydroxyethyl-, and hydroxypropylcellulose.
[0072] Commercially available products corresponding to these polymers include, for example, the products sold under the names "Celquat® L 200" and "Celquat® H 100" by National Starch.
[0073] (4) Non-cellulosic cationic polysaccharides such as guar gum containing cationic trialkylammonium groups, cationic hyaluronic acid and dextran hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride, as described in U.S. Patents 3,589,578 and 4,031,307. Guar gum modified with salts such as 2,3-epoxypropyltrimethylammonium chloride (guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride) can also be used.
[0074] Such products are, for example, sold by the company MEYHALL under the trade names JAGUAR® C13 S, JAGUAR® C15, JAGUAR® C17 and JAGUAR® C162.
[0075] (5) Polymers containing piperazinyl units and divalent alkylene or hydroxyalkylene groups, optionally containing linear or branched chains, optionally interrupted by at least one element selected from oxygen, sulfur, nitrogen, aromatic rings and heterocyclic rings, and also the oxidation and / or quaternization products of these polymers. Such polymers are described, for example, in French Patents Nos. 2 162 025 and 2 280 361.
[0076] (6) Water-soluble polyaminoamides, for example prepared by polycondensation of acidic compounds with polyamines, which may be crosslinked with an element selected from epihalohydrins; diepoxides; dianhydrides; unsaturated dianhydrides; bisunsaturated derivatives; bishalohydrins; bisazetidiniums; bishaloacyldiamines; bisalkylhalides; oligomers obtained by reaction of bifunctional compounds reactive with elements selected from bishalohydrins, bisazetidiniums, bishaloacyldiamines, bisalkylhalides, epihalohydrins, diepoxides and bisunsaturated derivatives; the crosslinking agent is used in an amount ranging from 0.025 to 0.35 mol per amine group of the polyaminoamide; these polyaminoamides may be optionally alkylated or, if they contain at least one tertiary amine function, they may be quaternized. Such polymers are described, for example, in French patents nos. 2,252,840 and 2,368,508.
[0077] (7) Polyaminoamide derivatives obtained by condensation of polyalkylenepolyamines with polycarboxylic acids followed by alkylation with bifunctional agents, such as adipic acid / dialkylaminohydroxyalkyldialkylenetriamine polymers, in which the alkyl groups contain from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, such as methyl, ethyl and propyl groups, and the alkylene groups contain from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, such as ethylene groups. Such polymers are described, for example, in French Patent No. 1,583,363. In at least one embodiment, these derivatives may be chosen from adipic acid / dimethylaminohydroxypropyldiethylenetriamine polymers.
[0078] (8) Polymers obtained by reacting polyalkylenepolyamines containing two primary amine groups and at least one secondary amine group with dicarboxylic acids selected from diglycolic acid and saturated aliphatic dicarboxylic acids containing 3 to 8 carbon atoms. The molar ratio of polyalkylenepolyamine to dicarboxylic acid may range from 0.8:1 to 1.4:1, and the polyaminoamides obtained therefrom are reacted with epichlorohydrin in a molar ratio of epichlorohydrin to secondary amine groups of polyaminoamide ranging from 0.5:1 to 1.8:1. Such polymers are described, for example, in U.S. Pat. Nos. 3,227,615 and 2,961,347.
[0079] (9) Cyclopolymers of alkyldiallylamine and cyclopolymers of dialkyldiallyl-ammonium, for example homopolymers and copolymers comprising, as main chain building blocks, at least one unit selected from units of formulae (Ia) and (Ib):
[0080] [ka]
[0081] (In the formula: k and t may be the same or different and are equal to 0 or 1, the sum k+t being equal to 1; R 12 is selected from hydrogen and a methyl group; R 10 and R 11 may be the same or different and are selected from alkyl groups containing 1 to 6 carbon atoms, hydroxyalkyl groups, the alkyl group containing, for example, 1 to 5 carbon atoms, and lower (C1 to C4) amidoalkyl groups, or R 10 and R 11 may, together with the nitrogen atom to which they are attached, form a heterocyclic group, such as piperidinyl and morpholinyl; Y' is an anion, such as bromide, chloride, acetate, borate, citrate, tartrate, hydrogen sulfate, hydrogen sulfite, sulfate and phosphate.) These polymers are described, for example, in French Patent No. 2 080 759 and its addition No. 2 190 406.
[0082] In one embodiment, R 10 and R 11 may be the same or different and are selected from alkyl groups containing 1 to 4 carbon atoms.
[0083] Examples of such polymers include, but are not limited to, (co)polydiallyldialkylammonium chlorides, such as the dimethyldiallylammonium chloride homopolymer sold under the name "MERQUAT® 100" by CALGON (and its homologs of lower weight average molecular weight), and the copolymer of diallyldimethylammonium chloride and acrylamide sold under the name "MERQUAT® 550".
[0084] (10) A quaternary diammonium polymer comprising at least one repeat unit of formula (II):
[0085] [ka]
[0086] [In formula: R 13 , R 14 , R 15 and R 16 are the same or different and are selected from aliphatic, alicyclic and arylaliphatic groups containing 1 to 20 carbon atoms, and lower hydroxyalkyl aliphatic groups; or R 13 , R 14 , R 15 and R 16may be taken together with the nitrogen atom to which they are attached or separately form a heterocycle which optionally contains a second heteroatom other than nitrogen, or R 13 , R 14 , R 15 and R 16 may be the same or different, and may be a nitrile group, an ester group, an acyl group, an amide group, -CO-OR 17 -E group and -CO-NH-R 17 -E group (in the formula, R 17 is an alkylene group, and E is a quaternary ammonium group); A1 and B1 may be identical or different and are selected from polymethylene groups containing 2 to 20 carbon atoms, which may be linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, and which may contain, linked or inserted in the main chain, at least one element selected from aromatic rings, oxygen, sulfur, sulfoxide groups, sulfone groups, disulfide groups, amino groups, alkylamino groups, hydroxyl groups, quaternary ammonium groups, ureido groups, amide groups and ester groups; X - is an anion derived from an inorganic or organic acid, A1, R 13 and R 15 may form a piperazine ring together with the two nitrogen atoms to which they are attached; When A1 is selected from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated alkylene or hydroxyalkylene groups, B1 is selected from the following: -(CH2) n -CO-E'-OC-(CH2) n - wherein E′ is: a) glycol residues of the formula -OZO-, in which Z is a linear or branched hydrocarbon-based group and a group of the formula: -(CH2-CH2-O) x -CH2-CH2- -[CH2-CH(CH3)-O] y -CH2-CH(CH3)- (wherein x and y may be the same or different and are selected from integers ranging from 1 to 4 representing a unique defined degree of polymerization, and numbers ranging from 1 to 4 representing an average degree of polymerization). selected from], b) bis-secondary diamine residues, such as piperazine derivatives; c) bis-primary diamine residues of the formula -NH-Y-NH-, where Y is selected from linear or branched hydrocarbon-based radicals and the divalent radical -CH-CH-SS-CH-CH-, and d) a ureylene group of the formula -NH-CO-NH- selected from can be selected from.
[0087] In at least one embodiment, X - is an anion, for example chloride or bromide.
[0088] Polymers of this type are described, for example, in French Patents Nos. 2320330, 2270846, 2316271, 2336434 and 2413907, and in U.S. Pat. Nos. 2,273,780, 2,375,853, 2,388,614, 2,454,547, 3,206,462, 2,261,000, and 2,372,411. 2, 2,271,378, 3,874,870, 4,001,432, 3,929,990, 3,966,904, 4,005,193, 4,025,617, 4,025,627, 4,025,653, 4,026,945, and 4,027,020.
[0089] Non-limiting examples of such polymers include those that contain at least one repeat unit of formula (III):
[0090] [ka]
[0091] (In the formula, R 13 , R 14 , R 15 and R 16 are the same or different and are selected from alkyl and hydroxyalkyl groups containing 1 to 4 carbon atoms; n and p are the same or different and are integers ranging from 2 to 20; X - is an anion derived from an inorganic or organic acid).
[0092] (11) Polyquaternary ammonium polymers comprising units of formula (IV):
[0093] [ka]
[0094] [In formula: R 18 , R 19 , R 20 and R 21 may be the same or different and are hydrogen, methyl, ethyl, propyl, β-hydroxyethyl, β-hydroxypropyl, -CH2CH2(OCH2CH2) p OH group (wherein p is selected from an integer ranging from 0 to 6), provided that R 18 , R 19 , R 20 and R 21 is not hydrogen at the same time, r and s may be the same or different and are selected from integers ranging from 1 to 6; q is selected from an integer ranging from 0 to 34; X - is an anion, for example a halide ion, A is selected from dihalides and -CH2-CH2-O-CH2-CH2- groups.
[0095] Such compounds are described, for example, in European Patent Application No. 0122324.
[0096] (12) Quaternary polymers of vinylpyrrolidone and vinylimidazole. Other examples of suitable cationic polymers include, but are not limited to, cationic proteins and cationic protein hydrolysates, polyalkyleneimines, such as polyethyleneimines, polymers comprising units selected from vinylpyridine units and vinylpyridinium units, condensates of polyamines with epichlorohydrin, quaternary polyureylenes, and chitin derivatives.
[0097] According to one embodiment of the present invention, the (a-1) cationic polymer is selected from cellulose ether derivatives containing quaternary ammonium groups, such as the product sold under the name "JR 400" by UNION CARBIDE CORPORATION, cationic cyclopolymers, such as the homopolymers and copolymers of dimethyldiallylammonium chloride sold under the names MERQUAT® 100, MERQUAT® 550 and MERQUAT® S by CALGON, guar gum modified with 2,3-epoxypropyltrimethylammonium salt, and quaternary polymers of vinylpyrrolidone and vinylimidazole.
[0098] (13) Polyamines As (a-1) cationic polymer, it is also possible to use (co)polyamines, which may be homopolymers or copolymers, having a plurality of amino groups. The amino groups may be primary, secondary, tertiary or quaternary amino groups. The amino groups may be present in the polymer backbone of the (co)polyamine or, if present, in pendant groups.
[0099] Examples of (co)polyamines include chitosan, (co)polyallylamine, (co)polyvinylamine, (co)polyaniline, (co)polyvinylimidazole, (co)polydimethylaminoethylene methacrylate, (co)polyvinylpyridine such as (co)poly-1-methyl-2-vinylpyridine, (co)polyimines such as (co)polyethylenimine, (co)polypyridines such as (co)poly(quaternary pyridine), (co)polybiguanides such as (co)polyaminopropyl biguanide, (co)polylysine, (co)polyornithine, (co)polyarginine, (co)polyhistidine, aminodextran, aminocellulose, amino(co)polyvinyl acetal, and salts thereof.
[0100] As the (co)polyamine, it may be preferred to use (co)polylysine. Polylysine is well known. Polylysine can be a natural homopolymer of L-lysine that can be produced by bacterial fermentation. For example, polylysine can be ε-poly-L-lysine, which is typically used as a natural preservative in food. Polylysine is a polyelectrolyte that is soluble in polar solvents, such as water, propylene glycol and glycerol. Polylysine is commercially available in various forms, such as poly-D-lysine and poly-L-lysine. Poly-L-lysine is preferred. Polylysine may be in the form of a salt and / or a solution.
[0101] (14) Cationic polyamino acids (a-1) As the cationic polymer, it may be possible to use cationic polyamino acids, which may be cationic homopolymers or copolymers having multiple amino and carboxyl groups. The amino groups may be primary, secondary, tertiary or quaternary amino groups. The amino groups may be present in the polymer backbone of the cationic polyamino acid or in pendant groups, if present. The carboxyl groups may be present in pendant groups, if present, of the cationic polyamino acid.
[0102] Examples of cationic polyamino acids include cationized collagen, cationized gelatin, steardimonium hydroxypropyl hydrolyzed wheat protein, cocodimonium hydroxypropyl hydrolyzed wheat protein, hydroxypropyltrimonium hydrolyzed conchiolin protein, steardimonium hydroxypropyl hydrolyzed soy protein, hydroxypropyltrimonium hydrolyzed soy protein, cocodimonium hydroxypropyl hydrolyzed soy protein, and the like.
[0103] The following description relates to preferred embodiments of the cationic polymer.
[0104] The (a-1) cationic polymer is preferably selected from the group consisting of cyclopolymers of alkyldiallylamine and cyclopolymers of dialkyldiallylammonium, such as (co)polydiallyldialkylammonium chloride, (co)polyamines, such as (co)polylysine and chitosan, cationic (co)polyamino acids, such as collagen, cationic cellulose polymers, and salts thereof.
[0105] The (a-1) cationic polymer is more preferably selected from chitosan.
[0106] The chitosan preferably has a molecular weight (Da) of more than 20,000, preferably more than 50,000, more preferably more than 80,000. In other words, the (a-1) cationic polymer is a high molecular weight chitosan.
[0107] The molecular weight (Da) of chitosan may be less than 1,000,000, preferably less than 500,000, more preferably less than 300,000.
[0108] The molecular weight (Da) of chitosan may be greater than 20,000 and less than 1,000,000, preferably greater than 50,000 and less than 500,000, more preferably greater than 80,000 and less than 300,000.
[0109] Unless otherwise defined in the description, "molecular weight" means the weight average molecular weight. Molecular weight can be measured or determined, for example, by gel permeation chromatography according to ASTM D5296-19.
[0110] Chitosan is very rare in nature: it has only been reported in the exoskeletons of certain insects, such as termite queens, and in the cell walls of a certain class of fungi, the Zygomycetes.
[0111] Chitosan can be obtained by deacetylation of chitin, a polysaccharide composed of several N-acetyl-D-glucosamine units linked together by β-type bonds (1,4).
[0112] The idealized chemical structure of chitosan is a sequence of β-D-glucosamine monomers linked by glycosidic bonds (1→4).
[0113] "Chitosan" in the present invention means any copolymer formed from the building blocks N-acetyl-D-glucosamine and D-glucosamine, the degree of acetylation of which is less than 90%, preferably less than 80%, preferably less than 70%, preferably less than 60%, preferably less than 50%. Chitosan consists of glucosamine sugar units (deacetylated units) and N-acetyl-D-glucosamine units (acetylated units) linked together by β-type bonds (1,4), and is a polymer of the poly(N-acetyl-D-glucosamine)-poly(D-glucosamine) type.
[0114] More preferably, the degree of acetylation of chitosan is not more than 40%, preferably not more than 35%, preferably not more than 25%, preferably not more than 15%, preferably not more than 10%.
[0115] The degree of acetylation is the percentage of acetylated units relative to the total number of units and can be determined by Fourier transform infrared spectroscopy (FT-IR) or titration with a strong base.
[0116] Chitosan in the present invention is preferably a polysaccharide prepared from fungal sources, particularly chitosan extracted and purified from safe and abundant food or biotechnological fungal sources such as mushroom (Agaricus bisporus) or Aspergillus niger).
[0117] The chitosan according to the invention is preferably derived from the mycelium of fungi of the Ascomycete type, in particular Aspergillus niger and / or Basidiomycete fungus, in particular Lentinula edodes and / or Agaricus bisporus. Preferably, the fungus is Aspergillus niger.
[0118] The chitosan may be of Genetically Modified Organisms (GMO) origin, but is preferably of non-GMO origin.
[0119] The chitosan according to the invention is natural, i.e. unmodified, in particular does not contain any chemical modifications.
[0120] One method for preparing chitosan is that described in WO03 / 068824.
[0121] Preferably, the chitosan used in the present invention is in the form of a powder. It is marketed under the name Kiosmetine or Kionutrime by the company Kitozyme, e.g. Kiosmetine-CSH and Kiosmetine P.
[0122] (a-1) is preferably selected from chitosan, more preferably from chitosan having a molecular weight (Da) of more than 20,000.
[0123] The amount of the (a-1) cationic polymer in the composition of the present invention may be 0.01 mass % or more, preferably 0.05 mass % or more, and more preferably 0.1 mass % or more, based on the total mass of the composition.
[0124] The amount of the (a-1) cationic polymer in the composition of the present invention may be 15% by mass or less, preferably 10% by mass or less, and more preferably 5% by mass or less, based on the total mass of the composition.
[0125] The amount of the (a-1) cationic polymer in the composition of the present invention can be 0.01% by mass to 15% by mass, preferably 0.05% by mass to 10% by mass, and more preferably 0.1% by mass to 5% by mass, relative to the total mass of the composition.
[0126] (Monovalent non-polymeric acid or its salt) The composition of the present invention comprises (a-2) at least one monovalent non-polymeric acid or salt thereof. A single type of monovalent non-polymeric acid or salt thereof, or a combination of different types of monovalent non-polymeric acids or salts thereof, can be used.
[0127] The term "non-polymeric" as used herein means that the acid is not obtained by polymerizing two or more monomers, and thus does not correspond to acids obtained by polymerizing two or more monomers, such as polyacrylic acid.
[0128] The term "salt" as used herein refers to a salt formed by adding a suitable base to a monovalent non-polymeric acid, which can be obtained from the reaction of a monovalent non-polymeric acid with a base according to methods known to those skilled in the art. The salt can include metal salts, such as salts with alkali metals such as Na and K, and salts with alkaline earth metals such as Mg and Ca, and ammonium salts.
[0129] The molecular weight of the (a-2) monovalent non-polymeric acid or its salt is preferably less than 1,000, more preferably 500 or less, and even more preferably 200 or less.
[0130] The (a-2) monovalent non-polymeric acid or its salt may be contained in the aqueous phase formed by (a-3) water. The (a-2) monovalent non-polymeric acid or its salt may promote dissolution of the (a-1) cationic polymer in (a-3) water.
[0131] (a-2) The monovalent non-polymeric acid has a single acid group which may be selected from the group consisting of a carboxylic acid group, a sulfate group, a sulfonic acid group, a phosphoric acid group, a phosphonic acid group, and mixtures thereof.
[0132] (a-2) The monovalent non-polymeric acid or its salt can be selected from monovalent organic or inorganic acids and their salts.
[0133] The monovalent non-polymeric acid (a-2) is preferably a monovalent organic acid, and more preferably a monovalent non-polymeric carboxylic acid.
[0134] The monovalent non-polymeric carboxylic acid may be selected from hydroxy acids, preferably alpha-hydroxy acids and beta-hydroxy acids. The alpha-hydroxy acids may include, for example, lactic acid and glycolic acid. The beta-hydroxy acids may include, for example, salicylic acid.
[0135] The monovalent non-polymeric acid may be a monovalent non-polymeric organic acid, preferably a monovalent non-polymeric carboxylic acid, more preferably a monovalent hydroxy acid, such as lactic acid and salicylic acid. When the (a-1) cationic polymer is selected from chitosan, lactic acid and salicylic acid are particularly preferred because they can effectively dissolve chitosan and have little odor.
[0136] The amount of (a-2) monovalent non-polymeric acid or its salt in the composition of the present invention may be 0.01 mass % or more, preferably 0.05 mass % or more, and more preferably 0.1 mass % or more, based on the total mass of the composition.
[0137] The amount of (a-2) monovalent non-polymeric acid or its salt in the composition of the present invention may be 15% by mass or less, preferably 10% by mass or less, and more preferably 5% by mass or less, based on the total mass of the composition.
[0138] The amount of (a-2) monovalent non-polymeric acid or a salt thereof in the composition of the present invention can be 0.01% by mass to 15% by mass, preferably 0.05% by mass to 10% by mass, and more preferably 0.1% by mass to 5% by mass, relative to the total mass of the composition.
[0139] (water) The composition of the present invention may contain (a-3) water.
[0140] (a-3) Water can form an aqueous phase which is the continuous phase of the composition of the present invention.
[0141] The amount of (a-3) water may be 40% by mass or more, preferably 45% by mass or more, and more preferably 50% by mass or more, based on the total mass of the composition.
[0142] The amount of (a-3) water may be 99% by mass or less, preferably 97% by mass or less, and more preferably 95% by mass or less, based on the total mass of the composition.
[0143] The amount of (a-3) water may be 40% by mass to 99% by mass, preferably 45% by mass to 97% by mass, and more preferably 50% by mass to 95% by mass, based on the total mass of the composition.
[0144] (fatty acid) The composition of the present invention contains (b-1) at least one fatty acid. A single type of fatty acid may be used, or two or more different types of fatty acids may be used in combination.
[0145] The (b-1) fatty acid is different from the (a-2) monovalent non-polymeric acid or a salt thereof.
[0146] The (b-1) fatty acid can hydrophobize the (a-1) cationic polymer.
[0147] As used herein, the term "fatty acid" refers to a carboxylic acid having a long chain of aliphatic carbons.
[0148] The (b-1) fatty acid has at least 4 carbon atoms, preferably at least 6 carbon atoms, more preferably at least 8 carbon atoms. The (b-1) fatty acid may contain up to 26 carbon atoms, preferably up to 24 carbon atoms, more preferably up to 22 carbon atoms. The (b-1) fatty acid may contain up to C4 to C 26 Fatty acids, preferably C6-C 24 Fatty acids, even more preferably C8-C 22 It is preferably selected from fatty acids.
[0149] The (b-1) fatty acid may be selected from saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched fatty acids. Therefore, the (b-1) fatty acid may be selected from C4 to C 26 , preferably C6 to C 24 , more preferably C8 to C 22 They may be chosen from saturated and unsaturated, straight-chain or branched fatty acids.
[0150] As the unsaturated linear or branched fatty acid, monounsaturated linear or branched fatty acid or polyunsaturated linear or branched fatty acid may be used. The unsaturated portion of the unsaturated linear or branched fatty acid may include a carbon-carbon double bond or a carbon-carbon triple bond.
[0151] Saturated fatty acids include, for example, caprylic acid (C8), pelargonic acid (C9), and capric acid (C 10 ), lauric acid (C 12 ), myristic acid (C 14 ), pentadecanoic acid (C 15 ), palmitic acid (C 16 ), heptadecanoic acid (C 17 ), stearic acid (C 18 ), Isostearic acid (C 18 ), nonadecanoic acid (C 19 ), arachidic acid (C 20 ), behenic acid (C22 ), and lignoceric acid (C 24 ) can be mentioned.
[0152] Examples of unsaturated fatty acids include myristoleic acid (C 14 ), palmitoleic acid (C 16 ), oleic acid (C 18 ), linoleic acid (C 18 ), linoleic acid (C 18 ), elaidic acid (C 18 ), arachidonic acid (C 20 ), eicosenoic acid (C 20 ), erucic acid (C 22 ), and nervonic acid (C 24 ) can be mentioned.
[0153] (b-1) Fatty acids are C8 to C 18 It is preferred to select from saturated or unsaturated, straight or branched chain fatty acids, more preferably from the group consisting of caprylic acid, capric acid, oleic acid, linoleic acid, stearic acid, isostearic acid and mixtures thereof.
[0154] (b-1) fatty acid may be in the form of its free acid or its salt. Salts of fatty acids may include inorganic salts, such as alkali metal salts (sodium salt, potassium salt, etc.) and alkaline earth metal salts (magnesium salt, calcium salt, etc.), as well as organic salts, such as ammonium salts (quaternary ammonium salts, etc.) and amine salts (triethanolamine salt, triethylamine salt, etc.). A single type of fatty acid salt or a combination of different types of fatty acid salts may be used. Furthermore, a combination of one or more fatty acids in the form of free acid and one or more fatty acids in the form of salt may be used, and one or more types of salt may be used.
[0155] The amount of the (b-1) fatty acid in the composition of the present invention may be 0.01 mass % or more, preferably 0.05 mass % or more, and more preferably 0.1 mass % or more, based on the total mass of the composition.
[0156] On the other hand, the amount of the (b-1) fatty acid in the composition of the present invention may be 15 mass % or less, preferably 10 mass % or less, and more preferably 5 mass % or less, relative to the total mass of the composition.
[0157] Therefore, the amount of the (b-1) fatty acid in the composition of the present invention can be in the range of 0.01% by mass to 15% by mass, preferably 0.05% by mass to 10% by mass, and more preferably 0.1% by mass to 5% by mass, relative to the total mass of the composition.
[0158] (alcohol) The composition of the present invention may contain (b-2) at least one alcohol. A single type of alcohol may be used, or two or more different types of alcohol may be used in combination.
[0159] (b-2) Alcohol is heated at atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg or 10 5 It may be in the form of a liquid at room temperature, for example 25° C., under conditions of about 100 Pa.
[0160] (b-2) The alcohol may be volatile or non-volatile.
[0161] The term "volatile" means that the alcohol is capable of evaporating at standard atmospheric pressure, e.g. 1 atm, and at room temperature, e.g. 25°C.
[0162] The (b-2) alcohol can function to promote complexation between the (b-1) fatty acid and the (a-1) cationic polymer.
[0163] The (b-2) alcohol may be a monohydric alcohol, preferably selected from monohydric aliphatic alcohols, monohydric aromatic alcohols, and mixtures thereof, more preferably from monohydric aliphatic alcohols.
[0164] The monohydric aliphatic alcohol (monol) may have 2 to 6 carbon atoms, preferably 2 or 3 carbon atoms, and one hydroxyl group. Examples of monohydric aliphatic alcohols include ethanol, n-propanol, isopropanol, and mixtures thereof.
[0165] The monohydric aromatic alcohols can have from 8 to 12 carbon atoms, preferably from 8 to 10 carbon atoms, and more preferably 8 carbon atoms. Examples of monohydric aromatic alcohols include benzyl alcohol, phenylethyl alcohol, phenoxyethanol, and mixtures thereof.
[0166] The (b-2) alcohol may be a dihydric or polyhydric alcohol, preferably selected from dihydric or polyhydric aliphatic alcohols, dihydric or polyhydric aromatic alcohols, and mixtures thereof, more preferably from dihydric or polyhydric aliphatic alcohols.
[0167] The dihydric aliphatic alcohol (diol) can have 2 to 8 carbon atoms, preferably 3 to 7 carbon atoms, more preferably 4 to 6 carbon atoms, and two hydroxyl groups. Examples of dihydric aliphatic alcohols include ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, pentylene glycol, hexylene glycol, and mixtures thereof.
[0168] Polyhydric aliphatic alcohols do not include sugars or their derivatives, which include sugar alcohols obtained by reducing one or more carbonyl groups of a sugar, as well as sugars or sugar alcohols in which the hydrogen atom in one or more hydroxyl groups is replaced with at least one substituent, such as an alkyl group, a hydroxyalkyl group, an alkoxy group, an acyl group or a carbonyl group.
[0169] The polyhydric aliphatic alcohol (polyol) may have 3 to 10 carbon atoms, preferably 4 to 9 carbon atoms, more preferably 5 to 8 carbon atoms, and three or more hydroxyl groups. Examples of polyhydric aliphatic alcohols include glycerin and diglycerin.
[0170] The (b-2) alcohol is preferably selected from the group consisting of ethanol, pentylene glycol, glycerin, and mixtures thereof, and more preferably selected from the group consisting of ethanol, pentylene glycol, and mixtures thereof.
[0171] The amount of the (b-2) alcohol in the composition of the present invention may be 1% by mass or more, preferably 3% by mass or more, and more preferably 5% by mass or more, based on the total mass of the composition.
[0172] The amount of (b-2) alcohol in the composition of the present invention may be 20% by mass or less, preferably 15% by mass or less, and more preferably 10% by mass or less, based on the total mass of the composition.
[0173] The amount of the (b-2) alcohol in the composition of the present invention may be 1 mass % to 20 mass %, preferably 3 mass % to 15 mass %, and more preferably 5 mass % to 10 mass %, based on the total mass of the composition.
[0174] (Optional Ingredients) In addition to the above-mentioned components, the composition of the present invention may contain optional components typically used in cosmetics, specifically, surfactants / emulsifiers, for example (a-1) hydrophilic or lipophilic thickeners derived from synthetic polymers other than cationic polymers, (b-2) volatile or non-volatile organic solvents other than alcohols, anionic polymers, amphoteric polymers, nonionic polymers such as β-glucans, silicones and silicone derivatives, natural extracts derived from animals or plants other than (a-1) cationic polymers, waxes, etc., within a range that does not impair the effects of the present invention.
[0175] The composition of the present invention may contain the above optional components in an amount of 0.01% by mass to 30% by mass, preferably 0.05% by mass to 20% by mass, and more preferably 0.1% by mass to 10% by mass, relative to the total mass of the composition.
[0176] The composition of the present invention may comprise at least one oil. In this specification, "oil" means a fatty compound or substance that is in the form of a liquid or paste (non-solid) at atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg) and room temperature (25°C). As oils, those commonly used in cosmetics can be used, alone or in combination. These oils may be volatile or non-volatile.
[0177] However, the amount of oil in the composition of the present invention is limited.Therefore, the amount of oil in the composition of the present invention is less than 1 mass %, preferably less than 0.1 mass %, more preferably less than 0.01 mass %, based on the total mass of the composition.It is particularly preferred that the composition of the present invention does not contain oil.
[0178] The amount of surfactants / emulsifiers and / or synthetic thickeners in the composition of the invention may be less than 1% by weight, preferably less than 0.1% by weight, more preferably less than 0.01% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. It is particularly preferred that the composition of the invention does not contain any surfactants / emulsifiers or synthetic thickeners.
[0179] The amount of anionic or amphoteric polymer in the composition of the invention may be less than 1% by weight, preferably less than 0.1% by weight, more preferably less than 0.01% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. It is particularly preferred that the composition of the invention does not comprise anionic or amphoteric polymers.
[0180] [Preparation] The composition of the present invention can be prepared by mixing the essential components described above, and, where necessary, the optional components described above.
[0181] The method and means for mixing the above essential components and optional components are not limited. Any conventional method and means can be used to mix the above essential components and optional components to prepare the composition of the present invention.
[0182] The composition of the present invention can be prepared by simple or easy mixing with conventional mixing means such as stirrers and homogenizers. Also, heating may not be required. Therefore, the preparation method of the composition of the present invention can be environmentally friendly.
[0183] The composition of the present invention comprises: (1) (a-1) at least one cationic polymer; (a-2) at least one monovalent non-polymeric acid or a salt thereof, and Optional (a-3) Water to form a first mixture (a); (2) (b-1) at least one fatty acid, and Optionally, (b-2) at least one alcohol to form a second mixture (b); (3) and mixing a first mixture (a) and a second mixture (b) to prepare the composition of the present invention.
[0184] The process for preparing the composition of the present invention may further comprise the optional step of mixing at least one oil, provided that the amount of oil is less than 1% by weight, preferably less than 0.1% by weight, more preferably less than 0.01% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0185] [Beauty use] The composition of the present invention may be intended to be used as a cosmetic composition.Accordingly, the cosmetic composition of the present invention may be intended to be applied to keratinous materials.Keratinous materials, as used herein, refer to materials that contain keratin as a main component, and examples thereof include skin, scalp, nails, lips, hair, etc.Therefore, it is preferred that the cosmetic composition of the present invention is used in a cosmetic method for keratinous materials, particularly skin.
[0186] The cosmetic composition of the present invention may be a skin cosmetic composition, preferably a skin care composition or a skin make-up composition, more preferably a skin care composition.
[0187] [form] The compositions of the present invention may be in any form.
[0188] For example, the composition of the present invention may be in the form of a dispersion. Also, the composition of the present invention may be in the form of a gel.
[0189] Additionally, the compositions of the present invention may be in the form of a powder.
[0190] The compositions of the present invention may have a clear or translucent appearance, preferably a clear appearance.
[0191] Clarity may be measured by measuring turbidity (e.g., with a HACH 2100Q Portable Turbidimeter). The turbidity of the compositions of the present invention may be less than 400 NTU (semi-transparent), preferably less than 350 NTU, more preferably less than 300 NTU (transparent).
[0192] [pH] The pH of the composition of the present invention may be 3-9, preferably 3.5-8, and more preferably 4-7.
[0193] The pH of the composition of the present invention can be adjusted by adding at least one alkaline agent and / or at least one acid other than (a-2) the monovalent non-polymeric acid or its salt. The pH of the composition of the present invention can also be adjusted by adding at least one buffering agent.
[0194] [Coating] The composition of the present invention can be used to easily prepare a film, in other words, the composition of the present invention can form a film.
[0195] The present invention therefore also relates to a method for preparing a film, preferably a decorative film, optionally having a thickness of more than 0.5 μm, more preferably 1.0 μm or more, even more preferably 1.5 μm or more, comprising: applying a composition of the present invention onto a substrate, preferably a keratinous material, more preferably the skin; drying the composition; The present invention may also relate to a method comprising:
[0196] There is no upper limit to the thickness of the coating of the present invention. Thus, for example, the thickness of the coating of the present invention may be 300 μm or less, preferably 200 μm or less, and more preferably 100 μm or less.
[0197] The method for preparing the film of the present invention includes a step of applying the composition of the present invention to a substrate, preferably a keratinous material, more preferably the skin, and a step of drying the composition, so the method of the present invention does not require any spin coating or spraying, and therefore even a relatively thick film can be easily prepared.Therefore, the method for preparing the film of the present invention can prepare a relatively thick film without using any special equipment such as a spin coater and a spray machine.
[0198] When the composition of the present invention is applied to a substrate such as a keratinous material (e.g., skin) and dried, the particles in the composition of the present invention can reduce in size and form a continuous film. The film is composed of small particles, and the size of the small particles is on the nano-order (e.g., about 100 nm to about 500 nm). The smaller the size of the particles in the film, the more translucent the film can be. The film thus formed can blur, i.e., hide unevenness on the skin such as age spots, wrinkles, and fine lines.
[0199] Accordingly, the compositions and films of the present invention are useful in cosmetic applications.
[0200] The particles in the coating of the present invention may be in the form of core-shell particles, the core of which may comprise primarily (a-1) a cationic polymer such as chitosan, while the shell may comprise primarily (b-1) a fatty acid.
[0201] If the substrate is not a keratinous material such as skin, the composition of the present invention can be applied to a substrate made of any material other than keratin. The material of the non-keratinous substrate is not limited. Two or more materials may be used in combination. Therefore, a single type of material or a combination of different types of materials can be used. In any case, it is preferable that the substrate is flexible or elastic.
[0202] When the non-keratin substrate is in the form of a sheet, it may have a thickness greater than that of the coating of the present invention in order to facilitate handling of the coating attached to the substrate sheet. The thickness of the non-keratin substrate sheet is not limited, but may be 1 μm to 5 mm, preferably 10 μm to 1 mm, more preferably 50 to 500 μm.
[0203] More preferably, the film of the present invention is removable from the non-keratin substrate. The manner of removal is not limited. For example, the film of the present invention may be peeled off from the non-keratin substrate.
[0204] The present invention also provides (1) A coating, preferably a decorative coating, optionally having a thickness of preferably more than 0.5 μm, more preferably 1.0 μm or more, even more preferably 1.5 μm or more, applying a composition of the present invention onto a substrate, preferably a keratinous material, more preferably the skin; drying the composition; a film, preferably a cosmetic film, prepared by a process comprising: and (2) A coating, preferably a decorative coating, optionally having a thickness of preferably more than 0.5 μm, more preferably 1.0 μm or more, even more preferably 1.5 μm or more, (a-1) at least one cationic polymer; (a-2) at least one monovalent non-polymeric acid or a salt thereof, and (b-1) at least one fatty acid Including, Optionally, at least one oil in an amount of less than 1% by weight, preferably less than 0.1% by weight, more preferably less than 0.01% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition; It may also relate to a film, preferably a cosmetic film.
[0205] The above explanations regarding (a-1) the cationic polymer and (a-2) the monovalent non-polymeric acid or its salt, and (b-1) the fatty acid for the composition of the present invention can be applied to those in the above coating (2).
[0206] The coating of the present invention may also contain (b-2) at least one alcohol, if the alcohol is not volatile.
[0207] The coating of the present invention can be dissolved in water, and the particles in the coating of the present invention can swell in water to have a size on the order of microns.
[0208] When the particles in the film of the present invention are removed from the film, the small size of the particles can easily enter into the pores, wrinkles and fine lines on the skin. After the particles enter into the pores, wrinkles and fine lines, they can expand by applying water onto the skin. This expansion of the particles can make the pores, wrinkles and fine lines less noticeable.
[0209] The coatings of the present invention may be biocompatible and / or biodegradable.
[0210] As used herein, the term "biocompatible" means that the coating does not have excessive interactions between the coating and cells in the body, including the skin, and the coating is not recognized as foreign by the body.
[0211] As used herein, the term "biodegradable" means that the coating can be broken down or broken down in vivo, for example by the metabolism of the organism itself or by the metabolism of microorganisms that may be present in the organism. A biodegradable coating can also be broken down by hydrolysis.
[0212] When the coatings of the present invention are biocompatible and / or biodegradable, they can, for example, be less irritating or non-irritating to the skin and / or non-polluting to the environment.
[0213] In fact, the coating of the present invention may comprise (a-1) at least one cationic polymer selected from chitosan, which is a biodegradable polymer.
[0214] The film of the invention can be used for the cosmetic treatment of keratinous materials, preferably the skin, especially the face. The film of the invention can be in any shape or form.
[0215] [particle] The present invention also provides (a-1) at least one cationic polymer, and (b-1) at least one fatty acid A particle comprising: (a-1) the cationic polymer and (b-1) the fatty acid form at least one type of complex; It also relates to particles.
[0216] The above particles of the present invention may have a particle size of more than 1.0 μm, preferably more than 1.5 μm, more preferably 2.0 μm or more in water at 25° C., while the above particles of the present invention may have a particle size of less than 500 nm, preferably less than 400 nm, more preferably less than 300 nm when dry.
[0217] The aqueous or dry particle size can be determined as described above.
[0218] The particles of the present invention can have a size of the nano-order (less than 1.0 μm) under dry conditions, whereas the particles of the present invention can swell in water to have a size of the micron-order (greater than 1.0 μm).
[0219] The particles of the present invention, especially when dry, may be in the form of core-shell particles, the core of which may comprise predominantly (a-1) cationic polymers such as chitosan, while the shell may comprise predominantly (b-1) fatty acids.
[0220] The above explanation regarding (a-1) the cationic polymer and (b-1) the fatty acid for the composition of the present invention can be applied to the above particles.
[0221] [Cosmetic methods and uses] The present invention also provides A cosmetic method for keratinous materials such as the skin, comprising the steps of applying a composition of the present invention to the keratinous material and drying the composition to form a cosmetic film on the keratinous material, or Use of the composition of the present invention for preparing a cosmetic film on a keratinous material such as the skin Also relates to.
[0222] Cosmetic method means herein a non-therapeutic cosmetic method for caring for and / or making up the surfaces of keratinous materials such as the skin.
[0223] After the cosmetic film of the present invention has been applied to the skin, it is also possible to apply a make-up cosmetic composition thereon.
[0224] The present invention also provides (a-1) at least one cationic polymer; Optionally, at least one oil is present in an amount of less than 1% by weight, preferably less than 0.1% by weight, more preferably less than 0.01% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. (b-1) Use of at least one fatty acid in the composition, The present invention may also relate to the use for preparing at least one complex comprising (a-1) a cationic polymer and (b-1) a fatty acid.
[0225] The above explanations regarding (a-1) the cationic polymer and (b-1) the fatty acid for the composition of the present invention can be applied to the above uses. EXAMPLES
[0226] The present invention will now be described in a more detailed manner by means of examples, which should not, however, be construed as limiting the scope of the present invention.
[0227] (Examples 1 to 3 and Comparative Examples 1 to 2) [Preparation] Each of the compositions of Examples 1 to 3 and Comparative Examples 1 and 2 was prepared by mixing the components shown in Table 1. All the numerical values for the amounts of the components in Table 1 are based on "mass %" of the raw materials.
[0228] The preparation details are as follows.
[0229] Example 1 First, 0.63 g of raw chitosan in the form of an 80 wt % aqueous solution, 0.32 g of lactic acid, and 99.05 g of water were mixed to obtain a first mixture in the amount of 100 g.
[0230] Secondly, separately, 0.17 g of oleic acid and 9.83 g of ethanol were mixed to obtain a second mixture in the amount of 10 g.
[0231] Then, 10 g of the first mixture and 1 g of the second mixture were mixed to obtain the composition of Example 1. The pH of the composition of Example 1 was adjusted to 5 with NaOH.
[0232] Example 2 First, 0.63 g of chitosan raw material in the form of an 80 wt % aqueous solution, 0.32 g of salicylic acid, and 99.05 g of water were mixed to obtain a first mixture in the amount of 100 g.
[0233] Secondly, separately, 0.17 g of oleic acid and 9.83 g of ethanol were mixed to obtain a second mixture in the amount of 10 g.
[0234] Then, 10 g of the first mixture and 1 g of the second mixture were mixed to obtain the composition of Example 2. The pH of the composition of Example 2 was adjusted to 5 with NaOH.
[0235] Example 3 First, 0.63 g of raw chitosan in the form of an 80 wt % aqueous solution, 0.32 g of lactic acid, and 99.05 g of water were mixed to obtain a first mixture in the amount of 100 g.
[0236] Secondly, separately, 0.17 g of oleic acid and 9.83 g of pentylene glycol were mixed to obtain a second mixture in the amount of 10 g.
[0237] Then, 10 g of the first mixture and 1 g of the second mixture were mixed to obtain the composition of Example 3. The pH of the composition of Example 3 was adjusted to 5 with NaOH.
[0238] Comparative Example 1 First, 0.57 g of raw chitosan in the form of an 80% by weight aqueous solution, 0.29 g of lactic acid, and 87.94 g of water were mixed to obtain a mixture. Next, 9.60 g of Zea Mays (corn) germ oil and 1.6 g of oleic acid were added to the mixture while stirring. Thus, the composition of Comparative Example 1 was prepared. The pH of the composition of Comparative Example 1 was adjusted to 5 with NaOH.
[0239] Comparative Example 2 First, 0.63 g of raw chitosan in the form of an 80 wt % aqueous solution, 0.32 g of lactic acid, and 99.05 g of water were mixed to obtain a first mixture in the amount of 100 g.
[0240] Secondly, separately, 0.17 g of water and 9.83 g of ethanol were mixed to obtain a second mixture in an amount of 10 g.
[0241] Then, 10 g of the first mixture and 1 g of the second mixture were mixed to obtain a composition of Comparative Example 2. The pH of the composition of Comparative Example 2 was adjusted to 5 with NaOH.
[0242] [Table 1]
[0243] [evaluation] As shown in each of FIGS. 1 to 3, photographs of the compositions of Examples 1 and 2 and the composition of Comparative Example 2 were taken using a transmission electron microscope (TEM), Hitachi H-7600 TEM (100 kV).
[0244] It was found that the compositions of Examples 1-2 contained particles, whereas the composition of Comparative Example 2 did not contain any particles.
[0245] It is apparent that the particles in the compositions of Examples 1-2 contain chitosan and oleic acid.
[0246] (particle size) The particle sizes of the particles in the compositions of Examples 1 to 3 were measured using a particle size analyzer ELSZ-2000 (Otsuka Electronics Co., Ltd.).
[0247] The results are shown in Table 1.
[0248] It should be noted that the particle size of Comparative Example 2 could not be determined because the composition of Comparative Example 2 did not contain any particles.
[0249] (Blur effect) 3 g of each of the compositions of Examples 1 to 3 and Comparative Examples 1 and 2 was placed on the bottom of a Petri dish and dried at room temperature (25° C.) to form a self-supporting film with a thickness of about 50 μm.
[0250] The film was placed on the newspaper so that the distance between the film and the newspaper was 2 cm, and then the visibility of the letters on the newspaper through the film was evaluated according to the following criteria. Good: The text was blurred Defective: The text was not blurred. Very poor: the letters were not visible
[0251] The results are shown in Table 1.
[0252] The compositions of Examples 1 to 3 gave semitransparent films, whereas the composition of Comparative Example 1 gave an opaque film, and the composition of Comparative Example 2 gave a transparent film.
[0253] (Example 4 and Comparative Example 3) Each of the compositions of Example 4 and Comparative Example 3 was prepared by mixing the components shown in Table 2. All numerical values for the amounts of components in Table 2 are based on "mass %" of the raw materials.
[0254] The preparation details are as follows.
[0255] Example 4 First, 2.52 g of raw chitosan in the form of an 80 wt % aqueous solution, 1.28 g of lactic acid, and 96.20 g of water were mixed to obtain a first mixture in the amount of 100 g.
[0256] Secondly, separately, 0.69 g of oleic acid and 9.31 g of ethanol were mixed to obtain a second mixture in the amount of 10 g.
[0257] Then, 10 g of the first mixture and 1 g of the second mixture were mixed to obtain the composition of Example 4. The pH of the composition of Example 4 was adjusted to 5 with NaOH.
[0258] Comparative Example 3 First, 2.52 g of raw chitosan in the form of an 80 wt % aqueous solution, 1.28 g of lactic acid, and 96.20 g of water were mixed to obtain a first mixture in the amount of 100 g.
[0259] Secondly, 0.69 g of water and 9.31 g of ethanol were mixed separately to obtain a second mixture in an amount of 10 g.
[0260] Then, 10 g of the first mixture and 1 g of the second mixture were mixed to obtain a composition of Comparative Example 3. The pH of the composition of Comparative Example 3 was adjusted to 5 with NaOH.
[0261] [Table 2]
[0262] [evaluation] (Rheological properties) The rheological properties of each of the compositions of Example 4 and Comparative Example 3 were measured at room temperature (25° C.) using a rheometer DHR-2 (manufactured by TA Instruments, frequency 1 Hz, cone type 20 mm φ2, strain sweep 0.01% to 1000%).
[0263] The rheological properties of each composition demonstrated that the composition of Example 4 was a gel, while the composition of Comparative Example 3 was a liquid.
[0264] Furthermore, the rheological properties of the composition of Example 4 showed that this composition can have a dilatancy effect.
[0265] (texture) 50 mg of each of the compositions of Example 4 and Comparative Example 3 was applied to the hands of panelists with their fingers. The texture during application was evaluated according to the following criteria. Good: The texture changed from thick or sticky to smooth. Poor: The texture was thick or sticky and did not change to smooth.
[0266] The results are shown in Table 2.
[0267] The composition of Example 4 was able to impart a smooth texture during application, whereas the composition of Comparative Example 3 was unable to impart a smooth texture during application.
[0268] (Blur effect) 3 g of each of the compositions of Example 4 and Comparative Example 3 was placed on the bottom of a Petri dish and dried at room temperature (25° C.) to form a self-supporting film having a thickness of about 50 μm.
[0269] The film was placed on the newspaper so that the distance between the film and the newspaper was 2 cm, and then the visibility of the letters on the newspaper through the film was evaluated according to the following criteria. Good: The text was blurred Defective: The text was not blurred.
[0270] The results are shown in Table 2.
[0271] The composition of Example 4 gave a translucent film, whereas the composition of Comparative Example 3 gave a transparent film.
Claims
1. (a-1) at least one cationic polymer, (a-2) at least one monovalent nonpolymeric acid or a salt thereof, and (b-1) At least one fatty acid A composition comprising, preferably a cosmetic composition, more preferably a skin cosmetic composition, A composition comprising, optionally, at least one oil in an amount of less than 1% by mass, preferably less than 0.1% by mass, and more preferably less than 0.01% by mass, relative to the total mass of the composition.
2. The composition according to claim 1, wherein the cationic polymer (a-1) has a molecular weight (Da) greater than 20,000.
3. The composition according to claim 1, wherein the (a-1) cationic polymer is selected from the group consisting of alkyldiallylamine cyclopolymers and dialkyldiallylammonium cyclopolymers, for example (co)polydiallyldialkylammonium chloride, (co)polyamines, for example (co)polylysine and chitosan, cationic (co)polyamino acids, for example collagen, cationic cellulose polymers, and salts thereof.
4. The composition according to claim 1, wherein the amount of the (a-1) cationic polymer in the composition is 0.01% to 15% by mass, preferably 0.05% to 10% by mass, and more preferably 0.1% to 5% by mass, based on the total mass of the composition.
5. The composition according to claim 1, wherein the (a-2) monovalent nonpolymeric acid is a monovalent nonpolymeric organic acid, preferably a monovalent nonpolymeric carboxylic acid, and more preferably a monovalent hydroxy acid, such as lactic acid and salicylic acid.
6. The composition according to claim 1, wherein the amount of the (a-2) monovalent nonpolymeric acid or salt thereof in the composition is 0.01% to 20% by mass, preferably 0.05% to 15% by mass, and more preferably 0.1% to 10% by mass, based on the total mass of the composition.
7. (a-3) The composition according to claim 1, further comprising water.
8. The composition according to claim 7, wherein the amount of (a-3) water in the composition is 40% to 99% by mass, preferably 45% to 97% by mass, and more preferably 50% to 95% by mass, based on the total mass of the composition.
9. The above (b-1) fatty acid is C 4 ~C 22 Preferably C 6 ~C 20 , more C 8 ~C 18 The composition according to claim 1, selected from saturated and unsaturated linear or branched fatty acids.
10. The composition according to claim 1, wherein the amount of the (b-1) fatty acid in the composition is 0.01% to 15% by mass, preferably 0.05% to 10% by mass, and more preferably 0.1% to 5% by mass, based on the total mass of the composition.
11. The composition according to claim 1, preferably further comprising at least one alcohol selected from the group consisting of ethanol, pentylene glycol, glycerin, and mixtures thereof, more preferably selected from the group consisting of ethanol, pentylene glycol, and mixtures thereof (b-2).
12. The composition according to claim 11, wherein the amount of the (b-2) alcohol in the composition is 1% to 20% by mass, preferably 3% to 15% by mass, and more preferably 5% to 10% by mass, based on the total mass of the composition.
13. The composition according to claim 1, wherein the (a-1) cationic polymer and the (b-1) fatty acid form at least one complex.
14. A cosmetic method for keratinous substances in the skin, etc. A step of applying the composition according to any one of claims 1 to 13 to the keratin substance, The steps include drying the composition to form a cosmetic film on the keratin substance, and Beauty methods, including
15. (a-1) at least one cationic polymer, and (b-1) At least one fatty acid A particle containing, The (a-1) cationic polymer and the (b-1) fatty acid form at least one complex, In water at 25°C, the particle size can be greater than 1.0 μm, preferably greater than 1.5 μm, and more preferably 2.0 μm or larger. Particles that, when dry, may have a particle size of less than 500 nm, preferably less than 400 nm, and more preferably less than 300 nm.