Oil-in-water emulsion cosmetics
The oil-in-water emulsion cosmetic composition, using hydrogenated jojoba oil, dilauroyl glutamate, and trehalose, addresses the balance of transepidermal water evaporation, moisturizing, and skin compatibility issues in low-viscosity cosmetics, achieving effective suppression and comfort.
Patent Information
- Authority / Receiving Office
- JP · JP
- Patent Type
- Applications
- Current Assignee / Owner
- FUAN KERU
- Filing Date
- 2024-11-29
- Publication Date
- 2026-06-10
AI Technical Summary
Existing low-viscosity oil-in-water emulsion cosmetics struggle to balance transepidermal water evaporation suppression, moisturizing effects, and skin compatibility while minimizing stickiness and tightness, particularly in lotions and beauty essences.
An oil-in-water emulsion cosmetic composition containing hydrogenated jojoba oil, dilauroyl glutamate (phytosteryl/octyldodecyl or dilauroyl glutamate (octyldodecyl/phytosteryl/behenyl), and trehalose, with a mass ratio (A/B) of 0.01 to 10, and a viscosity of 10,000 mPa·s or less, ensuring excellent transepidermal water evaporation suppression, moisturizing effects, and skin compatibility.
The composition effectively suppresses transepidermal water evaporation, provides sustained moisturizing properties, enhances skin firmness and elasticity, and offers a pleasant user experience with minimal stickiness and tightness.
Smart Images

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Abstract
Description
Technical Field
[0001] The present invention relates to an oil-in-water type emulsified cosmetic.
Background Art
[0002] In order to retain moisture and moisturizing components in the stratum corneum and moisturize the skin, there is a demand for cosmetics having an excellent function of suppressing transepidermal water loss. As cosmetics having an excellent function of suppressing transepidermal water loss, oil-based cosmetics and water-in-oil type emulsified cosmetics are known. However, since their external phase is an oil phase, there are problems in the feeling of use such as stickiness. Therefore, there is a demand for cosmetics having an excellent function of suppressing transepidermal water loss and having an external phase of an aqueous phase. For example, in Patent Document 1, an oil-in-water type emulsified cosmetic containing (A) polyurethane-79, (B) one or more linear saturated higher alcohols and / or linear saturated higher fatty acids, (C) a hydrophilic surfactant, and (D) a liquid oil and having an α-gel structure has been proposed. In Patent Document 2, an oil-in-water type emulsified cosmetic containing (A) an amide compound represented by the general formula (1) or (2), (B) a higher fatty acid or higher alcohol having a linear saturated hydrocarbon group having 13 to 30 carbon atoms, (C) a nonpolar oil or silicone oil that is liquid at 25°C, (D) an amphiphilic polymer having a linear saturated hydrocarbon group having 14 or more carbon atoms, and (E) water has been proposed. However, all of them are cream-like high-viscosity cosmetics having an α-gel structure. In particular, in low-viscosity cosmetics that can be used as lotions or beauty essences, there are still problems in achieving both the function of suppressing water loss and the feeling of use.
Prior Art Documents
Patent Documents
[0003]
Patent Document 1
Patent Document 2
Summary of the Invention
Problems to be Solved by the Invention
[0004] The present invention aims to provide a novel oil-in-water emulsion cosmetic. Furthermore, it aims to provide an oil-in-water emulsion cosmetic that has excellent transepidermal water evaporation suppression effects, excellent moisturizing effects, firmness and elasticity, and skin compatibility, while minimizing unpleasant sensations such as stickiness and tightness. [Means for solving the problem]
[0005] The means for solving the problems of the present invention are as follows: 1. An oil-in-water emulsion cosmetic characterized by containing the following components (A) to (C). (A) Hydrogenated jojoba oil (B) Either or both of the following: dilauroyl glutamate (phytosteryl / octyldodecyl) or dilauroyl glutamate (octyldodecyl / phytosteryl / behenyl) (C) Trehalose 2. The oil-in-water emulsion cosmetic composition according to 1, characterized in that the mass ratio (A / B) of component (A) to component (B) is 0.01 or more and 10 or less. 3. An oil-in-water emulsion cosmetic composition according to 1. or 2., characterized in that the viscosity measured with a Type B viscometer (25°C, rotor No. 3, 12 revolutions, 30 seconds) is 10,000 mPa·s or less. [Effects of the Invention]
[0006] The oil-in-water emulsion cosmetic composition of the present invention is particularly excellent in suppressing transepidermal water evaporation, and is expected to improve the skin's barrier function. Furthermore, the oil-in-water emulsion cosmetic composition of the present invention is excellent in sustained moisturizing effect, firmness and elasticity, and skin compatibility, with less discomfort such as stickiness and tightness. [Modes for carrying out the invention]
[0007] The oil-in-water emulsion cosmetic composition of the present invention (hereinafter also referred to as the cosmetic composition) contains the following components (A) to (C). (A) Hydrogenated jojoba oil (B) Either or both of the following: dilauroyl glutamate (phytosteryl / octyldodecyl) or dilauroyl glutamate (octyldodecyl / phytosteryl / behenyl) (C) Trehalose The oil-in-water emulsion cosmetic of the present invention, by using these components (A) to (C) in combination, exhibits excellent transepidermal water evaporation suppression effects despite being an oil-in-water emulsion cosmetic. Furthermore, the oil-in-water emulsion cosmetic of the present invention offers excellent sustained moisturizing properties, firmness, and elasticity, with minimal stickiness and tightness, good skin compatibility, and a superior user experience. In this specification, the notation "A~B (where A and B are numerical values or ratios)" refers to a numerical range that includes both ends of that range.
[0008] Ingredient A: Hydrogenated jojoba oil Jojoba (Simmondsia chinensis) is an evergreen tree belonging to the order Caryophyllales. Hydrogenated jojoba oil is produced by reducing (hydrogenating) jojoba oil, which is made from jojoba seeds. Jojoba oil is liquid at 25°C, but hydrogenated jojoba oil is a non-liquid wax at 25°C. The amount of component A is not particularly limited as long as it is within the range that achieves the effects of the present invention, but for example, it is preferably 0.01% by mass or more and 2% by mass or less, more preferably 0.02% by mass or more, even more preferably 0.04% by mass or more, even more preferably 1.6% by mass or less, even more preferably 1.2% by mass or less, and even more preferably 0.8% by mass or less, based on the total amount of the cosmetic composition. Examples of commercially available hydrogenated jojoba oil include Joba Cream M-40 (Koei Kogyo Co., Ltd.).
[0009] Component B: Either or both of the following: dilauroyl glutamate (phytosteryl / octyldodecyl) or dilauroyl glutamate (octyldodecyl / phytosteryl / behenyl). Lauroyl glutamate di(phytosteryl / octyldodecyl) is a diester of lauroyl glutamate with a mixture of phytosterol and octyldodecanol. Lauroyl glutamate di(octyldodecyl / phytosteryl / behenyl) is a diester of lauroyl glutamate with a mixture of phytosterol, octyldodecanol and behenyl alcohol. The amount of component B is not particularly limited as long as it is within the range that achieves the effects of the present invention, but for example, it is preferably 0.01% by mass or more and 2% by mass or less, more preferably 0.02% by mass or more, even more preferably 0.04% by mass or more, even more preferably 1.6% by mass or less, even more preferably 1.2% by mass or less, and even more preferably 0.8% by mass or less, based on the total amount of the cosmetic composition.
[0010] Ingredient C: Trehalose Trehalose is a non-reducing disaccharide in which two D-glucose molecules are linked by an α1-1 bond. The amount of component C is not particularly limited as long as it is within the range that achieves the effects of the present invention, but for example, it is preferably 0.1% by mass or more and 5% by mass or less, more preferably 0.5% by mass or more, even more preferably 1% by mass or more, even more preferably 4% by mass or less, and even more preferably 3% by mass or less, relative to the total amount of the cosmetic composition.
[0011] D component: water The present invention is an oil-in-water emulsion cosmetic, and naturally contains water. The water that can be used in the oil-in-water emulsion cosmetic composition of the present invention can be water that can be used in cosmetics, topical pharmaceuticals, quasi-drugs, etc., but purified water, distilled water, membrane-filtered water, and ion-exchanged water are preferred. The amount of water added is not particularly limited as long as it is within the range that achieves the effects of the present invention, but for example, it is 50% by mass or more, more preferably 70% by mass or more, and even more preferably 80% by mass or more, relative to the total amount of cosmetic composition.
[0012] In the oil-in-water emulsion cosmetic composition of the present invention, from the viewpoint of suppressing water evaporation and maintaining moisturizing properties, the mass ratio (A / B) of component (A) to component (B) is preferably 0.01 or more and 10 or less. This mass ratio is more preferably 0.05 or more, even more preferably 0.1 or more, even more preferably 0.3 or more, even more preferably 0.5 or more, and also more preferably 8 or less, even more preferably 6 or less, even more preferably 4 or less, and even more preferably 2 or less.
[0013] The oil-in-water emulsion cosmetic composition of the present invention is preferably low in viscosity and fluid, from the viewpoint of skin compatibility. Specifically, the viscosity measured with a B-type viscometer (25°C, rotor No. 3, 12 revolutions, 30 seconds) is preferably 10,000 mPa·s or less, more preferably 5,000 mPa·s or less, even more preferably 3,000 mPa·s or less, even more preferably 1,500 mPa·s or less, and even more preferably 1,000 mPa·s or less.
[0014] In addition to the above-mentioned components (A) to (D), the oil-in-water emulsion cosmetic composition of the present invention may contain other ingredients commonly used in cosmetics, such as polyhydric alcohols, sugars, sugar alcohols, organic powders, plant extracts, pH adjusters, salts, thickeners, preservatives, metal ion chelating agents, colorants, and fragrances. It may also contain other pharmaceutically active ingredients and physiologically active ingredients. However, in the oil-in-water emulsion cosmetic composition of the present invention, from the viewpoint of preventing stickiness and squeaky feeling, the content of oils other than components (A) and (B) relative to the total cosmetic composition is preferably 20% by mass or less, more preferably 10% by mass or less, and even more preferably 5.0% by mass or less.
[0015] Examples of polyhydric alcohols, saccharides, and sugar alcohols include glycerin, diglycerin, 1,3-butylene glycol, propylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, 1,2-pentanediol, glucose, sorbitol, mannose, mannitol, galactose, galactitol, maltose, maltitol, erythrose, erythritol, xylose, xylitol, sucrose, lactose, lactitol, difructose anhydride, methyl gluceth-10, PPG-10 methyl glucose, glycereth-26, and the like.
[0016] Examples of thickeners include carbomers and the like. Examples of preservatives include phenoxyethanol, methyl paraben, ethyl paraben, and the like. Examples of sequestering agents include edetate salts such as disodium ethylenediaminetetraacetate, edetic acid, and sodium edetate. Examples of active ingredients include vitamins C such as L-ascorbic acid, L-ascorbic acid phosphate ester, L-ascorbic acid monopalmitate, L-ascorbic acid dipalmitate, and L-ascorbic acid-2-glucoside; niacinamide; whitening agents such as glutathione and extract of Saxifraga stolonifera; skin activators such as royal jelly and extract of Quercus serrata; blood circulation promoters such as capsaicin, gingerol, cantharidin, caffeine, tannic acid, and γ-oryzanol; glycyrrhic acid derivatives such as dipotassium glycyrrhizinate and stearyl glycyrrhizinate; anti-inflammatory agents such as azulene; and lysozyme chloride.
[0017] The oil-in-water emulsified cosmetic of the present invention can be used as a lotion, milk lotion, essence, body lotion, or the like.
Examples
[0018] Examples and comparative examples are shown below to specifically illustrate the present invention. Oil-in-water emulsion cosmetic compositions were prepared to match the formulations shown in Tables 1-3 (formulations are in mass%) and evaluated using the following method. The oil-in-water emulsion cosmetic compositions obtained in both the examples and comparative examples all had a viscosity of 10,000 mPa·s or less, as measured using a Type B viscometer (25°C, rotor No. 3, 12 revolutions, 30 seconds). "Evaluation Method" • Effect of suppressing water evaporation Transepidermal water loss (TEWL) was measured using a vapometer (Delfin). As a value obtained before application of the oil-in-water emulsion cosmetic, the inner forearm, the measurement site, was washed and then acclimatized in a constant temperature and humidity chamber (50% humidity, 23°C) for 15 minutes, and the transepidermal water loss (TEWL) of the skin was measured. Then, 1.0 mL of each oil-in-water emulsion cosmetic was dropped onto a 3 x 3 cm cotton pad, and the area was left as a lotion pack for 3 minutes. After rinsing the surface again with a cleanser, the area was acclimatized in a constant temperature and humidity chamber (50% humidity, 23°C) for 15 minutes, and the transepidermal water loss (TEWL) after application was measured and evaluated according to the following criteria. <Evaluation Criteria> Percentage change in transepidermal water loss before and after application (%) = (Measured value after application / Measured value before application) ◎: Less than 70% ○: 70% or more but less than 80% △: 80% or more but less than 90% ×: 90% or more
[0019] • Long-lasting moisturizing effect Skin moisture content was measured using a Corneometer (Courage+Khazaka electronic GmbH (Germany)) and evaluated according to the following criteria. As a value obtained before application of the oil-in-water emulsion cosmetic, the inner forearm, the measurement site, was washed and then acclimatized in a constant temperature and humidity chamber (50% humidity, 23°C) for 15 minutes to measure the stratum corneum moisture content of the skin. Subsequently, 30 μL of each oil-in-water emulsion cosmetic was dropped onto a 3 × 3 cm area and applied uniformly, and then acclimatized in a constant temperature and humidity chamber (50% humidity, 23°C) for 60 minutes to measure the stratum corneum moisture content of the skin. <Evaluation Criteria> The percentage change in stratum corneum moisture content before application and after 60 minutes is calculated as follows: (Measured value after 60 minutes / Measured value before application) ◎: 200% or more ○: 180% or more, less than 200% △: 160% or more but less than 180% ×: Less than 160%
[0020] • Sensory evaluation A sensory evaluation was conducted by three expert panelists, based on their consensus, using the scoring method described below, when 30 μL of oil-in-water emulsion cosmetic was applied to the back of the hand in a circular motion for 20 seconds, and the following evaluation items were assessed. A score of △ or higher was considered a passing grade. <Evaluation Criteria> Firmness and elasticity, good skin compatibility, no stickiness or tightness. ○: Good △: Normal ×: Bad
[0021] [Table 1]
[0022] [Table 2]
[0023] [Table 3]
[0024] The oil-in-water emulsion cosmetic obtained in the examples containing components (A) to (C) of the present invention showed a decrease in the amount of water evaporated 15 minutes after application to the skin compared to before application, demonstrating excellent water evaporation effect. Furthermore, it exhibited excellent moisturizing effect, excellent firmness and elasticity, and excellent feel in terms of skin compatibility, lack of stickiness or tightness.
[0025] The following shows an example formulation (values are in mass %). The resulting oil-in-water emulsion cosmetic had excellent transepidermal water evaporation suppression effects, as well as excellent moisturizing effects, firmness and elasticity, skin compatibility, and a pleasant feel without stickiness or tightness. • Refreshing facial lotion BG 6,000 Pentylene glycol 2.000 Trehalose 2.000 Concentrated glycerin 3,000 Dipropylene glycol 1.000 Hydrogenated soybean phospholipid 0.180 Stearic acid 0.015 Partially hydrogenated jojoba oil 0.060 N-Lauroyl-L-Glutamate Di(Phytosteryl-2-Octyldodecyl) 0.060 Plant-derived squalane 0.540 L-arginine 0.010 Sodium citrate 0.080 Citric acid 0.010 Purified water 85.045
[0026] • Moisturizing lotion BG 4,000 Pentylene glycol 2.000 Trehalose 2.000 Concentrated glycerin 5,000 Dipropylene glycol 1.000 Hydrogenated soybean phospholipid 0.300 Stearic acid 0.025 Partially hydrogenated jojoba oil 0.100 N-Lauroyl-L-Glutamate Di(Phytosteryl / Behenyl / 2-Octyldodecyl) 0.100 Plant-derived squalane 0.900 L-arginine 0.025 Carbomer 0.100 Dipotassium glycyrrhizate 0.100 Purified water 84.350
[0027] Body lotion BG 6,000 Pentylene glycol 2.000 Trehalose 1.000 Concentrated glycerin 3,000 Dipropylene glycol 1.000 Hydrogenated soybean phospholipid 0.300 Stearic acid 0.025 Partially hydrogenated jojoba oil 0.080 N-Lauroyl-L-Glutamate Di(Phytosteryl-2-Octyldodecyl) 0.080 Plant-derived squalane 0.720 L-arginine 0.013 Carbomer 0.080 Dipotassium glycyrrhizate 0.100 Purified water 85.602
[0028] ·Emulsion BG 2.000 Pentylene glycol 2.000 Trehalose 1,500 Concentrated glycerin 3,000 Dipropylene glycol 4.000 Hydrogenated soybean phospholipid 1,200 Stearic acid 0.100 Partially hydrogenated jojoba oil 0.400 N-Lauroyl-L-Glutamate Di(Phytosteryl·2-Octyldodecyl) 0.400 Plant-derived squalane 3,600 L-arginine 0.050 (Acrylates / C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate) Crosspolymer 0.180 Sclerotium gum 0.080 Dipotassium glycyrrhizate 0.050 Purified water 81.440
[0029] ·Beauty serum BG 4,000 Pentylene glycol 2.000 Trehalose 2.000 Concentrated glycerin 6,000 Dipropylene glycol 2.000 Hydrogenated soybean phospholipid 1,200 Stearic acid 0.100 Partially hydrogenated jojoba oil 0.400 N-Lauroyl-L-Glutamate Di(Phytosteryl-2-Octyldodecyl) 0.400 Plant-derived squalane 3,600 L-arginine 0.050 (Acrylates / C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate) Crosspolymer 0.200 Sclerotium gum 0.080 Niacinamide 1,000 Purified water 76.970
Claims
1. An oil-in-water emulsion cosmetic characterized by containing the following components (A) to (C). (A) Hydrogenated jojoba oil (B) Either or both of the following: dilauroyl glutamate (phytosteryl / octyldodecyl) or dilauroyl glutamate (octyldodecyl / phytosteryl / behenyl) (C) Trehalose
2. The oil-in-water emulsion cosmetic composition according to claim 1, characterized in that the mass ratio (A / B) of component (A) to component (B) is 0.01 or more and 10 or less.
3. The oil-in-water emulsion cosmetic composition according to claim 1 or 2, characterized in that the viscosity measured with a Type B viscometer (25°C, rotor No. 3, 12 revolutions, 30 seconds) is 10,000 mPa·s or less.