Liquid oil-in-water emulsion cosmetic
The liquid oil-in-water emulsion cosmetic formulation addresses the challenge of providing a high moisturizing effect and stability by using specific components, achieving reduced stickiness and greasiness and improved long-term stability.
Patent Information
- Authority / Receiving Office
- JP · JP
- Patent Type
- Applications
- Current Assignee / Owner
- NIPPON MENARD COSMETIC CO
- Filing Date
- 2024-12-11
- Publication Date
- 2026-06-23
AI Technical Summary
Existing liquid emulsion cosmetics struggle to provide a high moisturizing effect while suppressing stickiness and greasiness, and often suffer from stability issues when containing solid or paste-like oils.
A liquid oil-in-water emulsion cosmetic formulation containing specific components: lauroyl glutamate di(octyldodecyl/phytosteryl/behenyl) at 0.3-3% by weight, diisostearyl malate at 0.05-7% by weight, and polyglycerin fatty acid ester with HLB 6.0 or less, particularly polyglyceryl-10 pentahydroxystearate at 0.01-2% by weight, with a liquid oil to total oil ratio of 0.20-0.55.
The formulation achieves a high moisturizing sensation, reduces stickiness and greasiness, and maintains long-term stability.
Smart Images

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Abstract
Description
Technical Field
[0001] The present invention relates to a liquid water-in-oil emulsion cosmetic that has a high moisturizing feeling after application, suppresses slipperiness and stickiness, and has excellent stability over time.
Background Art
[0002] As a method for preventing or improving skin dryness, it is possible to use emulsion cosmetics such as emulsions and creams after lotion to moisturize the skin. Among them, liquid emulsion cosmetics generally have less oil than creams, so they are useful for consumers who want to moisturize but dislike the greasy feeling. However, some liquid emulsion cosmetics cannot provide a satisfactory moisturizing feeling, or although a moisturizing feeling can be obtained, they are likely to feel slippery or sticky, and there are not a few consumers who do not like such a feeling.
[0003] Also, it is known that in order to make the moisturizing feeling more noticeable, it is more effective to contain more solid or paste-like oils than liquid oils. However, when a large amount of solid or paste-like oil is blended into a liquid emulsion cosmetic, problems such as an easy increase in viscosity and stability over time may occur. As a result, problems such as a change in the feeling of use of the liquid emulsion cosmetic or difficulty in dispensing from the container may occur. Such problems are not preferable for consumers.
[0004] As a concrete attempt to address this challenge, an oil-in-water emulsion cosmetic (Patent Document 1) is known, characterized by containing polyhydric alcohols, N-acyl amino acid diesters, fatty acid triglycerides, nonionic surfactants, phospholipids, and water. However, it has not succeeded in suppressing stickiness and enhancing moisturizing sensation. Also, an emulsion-type skin cosmetic (Patent Document 2) is known, characterized by containing polyethylene glycol monostearate, sorbitan monostearate, hydrogenated lecithin, acrylic acid / alkyl methacrylate copolymer, an oil containing vegetable oils, and water. However, it has not succeeded in suppressing stickiness. Furthermore, an oil-in-water emulsion cosmetic (Patent Document 3) is known, characterized by containing phospholipids and a compound in which the carboxyl groups at both ends of an oligomeric ester of dimer acid and dimer ol are esterified with isostearyl alcohol. However, it has not succeeded in improving the long-term stability of oil-in-water emulsion cosmetics that contain a large amount of solid oil or paste-like oil. Therefore, consumers desire the development of a cosmetic that provides a moisturizing sensation after application while suppressing stickiness and stickiness and having excellent long-term stability. [Prior art documents] [Patent Documents]
[0005] [Patent Document 1] Japanese Patent Publication No. 2018-203634 [Patent Document 2] Japanese Patent Publication No. 2020-147538 [Patent Document 3] Japanese Patent Publication No. 2007-269722 [Overview of the project] [Problems that the invention aims to solve]
[0006] The present invention aims to provide a liquid oil-in-water emulsion cosmetic that provides a high level of moisturizing effect after application while suppressing stickiness and greasiness, and exhibiting excellent long-term stability. [Means for solving the problem]
[0007] In other words, the present invention relates to the following components (A) to (C) (A) Lauroyl glutamate di(octyldodecyl / phytosteryl / behenyl) (B) Diisostearyl malate (C) Polyglycerin fatty acid ester The present invention provides a liquid oil-in-water emulsion cosmetic characterized by containing the following: the content of component (A) lauroyl glutamate di(octyldodecyl / phytosteryl / behenyl) is 0.3 to 3% by weight; the content of component (B) diisostearyl malate is 0.05 to 7% by weight; the HLB of component (C) polyglycerin fatty acid ester is 6.0 or less; and the weight ratio of liquid oil to the total amount of oil is 0.20 to 0.55.
[0008] Furthermore, the present invention provides a liquid oil-in-water emulsion cosmetic characterized in that the component (C) polyglycerin fatty acid ester is polyglyceryl-10 pentahydroxystearate, and its content is 0.01 to 2% by weight. [Effects of the Invention]
[0009] The liquid oil-in-water emulsion cosmetic of the present invention is a liquid oil-in-water emulsion cosmetic that provides a high moisturizing sensation after application while suppressing stickiness and greasiness, and exhibits excellent stability over time. [Best Mode for Carrying Out the Invention]
[0010] The content of component (A) lauroyl glutamate di(octyldodecyl / phytosteryl / behenyl) of the present invention is 0.3 to 3% by weight, and more preferably 0.5 to 2% by weight. Within this range, sufficient effects can be obtained in terms of high moisturizing effect, non-stickiness, and non-greasy feeling.
[0011] Component (A) of the present invention, di(octyldodecyl / phytosteryl / behenyl) lauroyl glutamate, is a commercially available product such as Plandool-LG1 (manufactured by Nippon Seika Co., Ltd.).
[0012] The content of component (B) diisostearyl malate in this invention is 0.05 to 7% by weight, and more preferably 1 to 5% by weight. Within this range, sufficient effects can be obtained in terms of long-term stability, high moisturizing effect, lack of stickiness, and lack of slipperiness.
[0013] Examples of commercially available products for component (B) diisostearyl malate of the present invention include Esterol DISM (manufactured by National Mimatsu Co., Ltd.).
[0014] The component (C) polyglycerin fatty acid ester of the present invention has an HLB of 6.0 or less, and is not particularly limited as long as it is a polyglycerin fatty acid ester commonly used in cosmetics. Examples include, but are not limited to, polyglyceryl-10 pentahydroxystearate, polyglyceryl-10 pentaisostearate, polyglyceryl-10 pentaoleate, polyglyceryl-4 oleate, and polyglyceryl-5 hexastearate. One or more selected from these can be used in combination. Among these, polyglyceryl-10 pentahydroxystearate is more preferred in terms of long-term stability, high moisturizing effect, lack of stickiness, and lack of slipperiness.
[0015] The content of component (C) polyglycerin fatty acid ester of the present invention is not particularly limited, but is preferably 0.01 to 2% by weight, and more preferably 0.05 to 1% by weight. Within this range, sufficient effects can be obtained in terms of long-term stability and high moisturizing effect.
[0016] Component (C) of the present invention, polyglycerin fatty acid ester, is commercially available and can be found in the form of, for example, NIKKOL Decaglyn 5-HS (manufactured by Nikko Chemicals Co., Ltd., HLB: 5.0), NIKKOL Decaglyn 5-ISV (manufactured by Nikko Chemicals Co., Ltd., HLB: 3.5), and NIKKOL Tetraglyn 1-OV (manufactured by Nikko Chemicals Co., Ltd., HLB: 6.0). Here, HLB (Hydrophile-Lipophile Balance) represents the molecular weight of the hydrophilic group portion relative to the total molecular weight of the surfactant. For nonionic surfactants, HLB can be determined using Griffin's formula: HLB = 20 × Mw / M (where M is the molecular weight of the nonionic surfactant and Mw is the molecular weight of the hydrophilic group portion).
[0017] The weight ratio of liquid oil to the total amount of the oil formulation in this invention (liquid oil / total amount of oil formulation) is 0.20 to 0.55. Within this range, sufficient effects can be obtained in terms of long-term stability, high moisturizing effect, lack of stickiness, and lack of slipperiness. Note that the weight ratio of liquid oil to the total amount of the oil formulation in this invention is rounded to the third decimal place.
[0018] The liquid oil used in this invention refers to an oily component that is fluid at 25°C, and may be any of the following: oils and fats, ester oils, hydrocarbons, silicone oils, etc. There are no particular restrictions as long as it is a liquid oil commonly used in cosmetics. Examples include, but are not limited to, squalane, jojoba seed oil, macadamia nut oil, olefin oligomer, diisostearyl malate, isotridecyl isononanoate, isononyl isononanoate, mineral oil, phytosteryl / octyldodecyl lauroyl glutamate, meadowfoam oil, dimethicone, diphenylsiloxyphenyl trimethicone, etc. One or more selected from these can be used in combination.
[0019] The oil agent used in the present invention may be any of fats and oils, ester oils, hydrocarbons, silicone oils, etc., and there is no particular limitation as long as it is an oil agent usually used in cosmetics. Examples include, in addition to the above liquid oils, petrolatum, di(octyldodecyl / phytosteryl / behenyl) lauroyl glutamate, dimer dilinoleic acid (phytosteryl / isostearyl / cetyl / stearyl / behenyl), shea butter, behenyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, behenic acid, stearic acid, phytosteryl macadamia nut fatty acid, hydrogenated castor oil stearate, microcrystalline wax, beeswax, etc., but are not limited thereto. Further, one or more selected from these can be mixed and used.
[0020] In the liquid water-in-oil type emulsified cosmetic of the present invention, "liquid" refers to a cosmetic having a viscosity of 10,000 mPa·s or less under the environment of 25°C and atmospheric pressure. The viscosity can be measured using a B-type viscometer (model: TVB-10) manufactured by Toki Sangyo Co., Ltd. The measurement conditions are: measuring for 30 seconds at a rotor No. 4 and a rotation speed of 12 rpm; when it is less than 10,000 mPa·s, measuring for 30 seconds at a rotor No. 3 and a rotation speed of 12 rpm; when it is less than 2,500 mPa·s, measuring for 30 seconds at a rotor No. 2 and a rotation speed of 12 rpm; when it is less than 500 mPa·s, measuring for 30 seconds at a rotor No. 1 and a rotation speed of 12 rpm.
[0021] Furthermore, the liquid water-in-oil type emulsified cosmetic of the present invention can contain a surfactant, an aqueous component, an oily component, a water-soluble polymer, an antioxidant, an ultraviolet absorber, a chelating agent, a preservative, a coloring agent, a beauty component, a fragrance, etc. within a range not impairing the effects of the present invention according to the purpose of use.
[0022] The liquid water-in-oil type emulsified cosmetic of the present invention is applicable to any of beauty liquids, emulsions, packs, etc.
Examples
[0023] Hereinafter, the present invention will be described in more detail with reference to examples, but the present invention is not limited to these examples. All contents are shown in weight%.
[0024] (Manufacturing method) Components 1 to 11 were uniformly mixed and heated to 80°C to form the oil phase. Components 12 to 17 were uniformly mixed and heated to 80°C to form the aqueous phase. After mixing the oil phase and the aqueous phase, the mixture was cooled to 30°C to obtain a liquid oil-in-water emulsion cosmetic.
[0025] (Method for evaluating stability over time) The obtained liquid oil-in-water emulsion cosmetic was filled into glass containers, and viscosity was measured using a B-type viscometer, emulsion particles were evaluated by microscopic observation, and appearance was evaluated by visual observation. Viscosity measurement, emulsion particle evaluation, and appearance evaluation were performed twice: initially and after being left in a 40°C incubator for 6 months, and judged according to the following criteria. Viscosity was measured using a B-type viscometer (model: TVB-10) manufactured by Toki Sangyo Co., Ltd. (1) Evaluation by viscosity measurement ◎: Remains liquid and the change in viscosity from the initial level is less than 50%. ○: The substance remains liquid, but the change in viscosity from the initial viscosity is 50% or more. ×: Not in liquid state. The rate of change is calculated as follows: [(Viscosity after 6 months at 40°C) / (Initial viscosity) - 1] × 100 (2) Evaluation based on emulsion particles and appearance ◎: No differences were observed in the emulsion particles or appearance from the initial state. ○: Although the emulsified particles have grown larger from the initial state, no difference in appearance is observed. ×: The emulsion particles have grown larger from the initial state, and changes in appearance such as creaming and separation are observed.
[0026] (Method for evaluating user experience) A user test was conducted by a panel of 20 experts. The resulting liquid oil-in-water emulsion cosmetic was used to evaluate "high moisturizing effect," "non-stickiness," and "non-greasy feel" according to the following criteria. (1) High moisturizing effect ◎: 18 or more people judged it to have a high moisturizing effect. ○: 14 to 17 people judged it to have a high moisturizing effect. △: 9 to 13 people judged it to have a high moisturizing effect. ×: Fewer than 8 people judged it to have a high moisturizing effect. (2) Non-sticky ◎: 18 or more people determined that it was not sticky. ○: 14-17 people determined that there was no stickiness. △: 9 to 13 people determined that there was no stickiness. ×: Fewer than 8 people judged that there was no stickiness. (3) No slipping ◎: 18 or more people determined that there was no cheating. ○: 14 to 17 people determined that there was no cheating. △: 9 to 13 people determined that there was no cheating. ×: Eight or fewer people determined that there was no cheating.
[0027] [Table 1]
[0028] As shown in Table 1, Examples 1-5, which are compositions of the present invention, yielded satisfactory results in all evaluated items. Among these, Examples 2-4, which contained 0.5-2% by weight of dilauroyl glutamate (octyldodecyl / phytosteryl / behenyl), yielded particularly satisfactory results. On the other hand, as shown in Comparative Examples 1 and 2, when dilauroyl glutamate (octyldodecyl / phytosteryl / behenyl) was not contained, or when the content was less than 0.3% by weight, satisfactory results were not obtained in terms of high moisturizing effect and lack of stickiness. Furthermore, as shown in Comparative Example 3, when the content of dilauroyl glutamate (octyldodecyl / phytosteryl / behenyl) exceeded 3% by weight, satisfactory results were not obtained in terms of viscosity measurement and lack of stickiness. Furthermore, as shown in Comparative Examples 4 and 6, when di(octyldodecyl / phytosteryl / behenyl) lauroyl glutamate was replaced with di(phytosteryl / octyldodecyl) or (isostearate / behenic acid)(glyceryl / polyglyceryl-6) esters, satisfactory results were not obtained in terms of non-stickiness and non-greasy feel. Also, as shown in Comparative Example 5, when behenic acid was replaced with di(octyldodecyl / phytosteryl / behenyl) lauroyl glutamate, satisfactory results were not obtained in terms of high moisturizing effect and non-greasy feel.
[0029] [Table 2]
[0030] As shown in Table 2, Examples 6-9, which are compositions of the present invention, obtained satisfactory results in all evaluated items. Among these, Examples 7 and 8, which contain 1-5% by weight of diisostearyl malate, yielded particularly satisfactory results. On the other hand, as shown in Comparative Examples 7 and 8, when diisostearyl malate was not contained or contained less than 0.05% by weight, satisfactory results were not obtained in the evaluation by viscosity measurement, evaluation by emulsion particles and appearance, and high moisturizing sensation. Furthermore, as shown in Comparative Example 9, when the diisostearyl malate content exceeded 7% by weight, satisfactory results were not obtained in terms of non-stickiness and non-slipperiness. Also, as shown in Comparative Example 10, when trimethylolpropane triisostearate was contained instead of diisostearyl malate, satisfactory results were not obtained in the evaluation by viscosity measurement, evaluation by emulsion particles and appearance, and non-slipperiness. Furthermore, as shown in Comparative Example 11, when hydrogenated polyisobutene was used instead of diisostearyl malate, satisfactory results were not obtained in terms of viscosity measurement, evaluation of emulsion particles and appearance, high moisturizing effect, and lack of slipperiness.
[0031] [Table 3]
[0032] As shown in Table 3, Examples 10-18, which are compositions of the present invention, yielded satisfactory results in all evaluated items. Among these, Examples 12 and 13, which contained 0.05-1% by weight of polyglyceryl-10 pentahydroxystearate, yielded particularly satisfactory results. On the other hand, as shown in Comparative Example 12, when polyglycerin fatty acid ester was not included, satisfactory results were not obtained in the evaluation by viscosity measurement, evaluation by emulsion particles and appearance, high moisturizing sensation, and lack of slipperiness. Also, as shown in Comparative Example 13, when polyglyceryl-10 trioleate with an HLB of 7.0 was included instead of polyglycerin fatty acid ester with an HLB of 6.0 or less, satisfactory results were not obtained in the evaluation by viscosity measurement, evaluation by emulsion particles and appearance, and lack of slipperiness. Furthermore, as shown in Comparative Example 14, when PEG-12 dimethicone was included instead of polyglycerin fatty acid ester, satisfactory results were not obtained in the evaluation by viscosity measurement, evaluation by emulsion particles and appearance, high moisturizing sensation, and lack of slipperiness. Furthermore, as shown in Comparative Example 15, when sorbitan isostearate was included instead of polyglycerin fatty acid ester, satisfactory results were not obtained in terms of viscosity measurement, evaluation of emulsion particles and appearance, and high moisturizing effect.
[0033] [Table 4]
[0034] As shown in Table 4, Examples 19-27, which are compositions of the present invention, yielded satisfactory results in all evaluated items. On the other hand, as shown in Comparative Examples 16, 18, 20, and 22, when the weight ratio of liquid oil to the total amount of oil was less than 0.20, satisfactory results were not obtained in the viscosity measurement evaluation and non-stickiness. Also, as shown in Comparative Examples 17, 19, 21, and 23, when the weight ratio of liquid oil to the total amount of oil exceeded 0.55, satisfactory results were not obtained in the high moisturizing sensation and non-slippery feel.
[0035] Other embodiments of the present invention are shown below. In both Examples 28 and 29, satisfactory results were obtained in all aspects, including evaluation by viscosity measurement, evaluation by emulsion particles and appearance, high moisturizing effect, lack of stickiness, and lack of slipperiness.
[0036] (Example 28: Beauty serum) (Ingredients) (Weight%) (1) Lauroyl glutamate di(octyldodecyl / phytosteryl / behenyl) *1 1.0 (2) Diisostearyl malate *5 2.0 (3) Dilinoleate di(phytosteryl / isostearyl / cetyl / stearyl / Behenir) 4.0 (4) Jojoba seed oil 1.0 (5) Mineral oil 1.0 (6) Hydrogenated rapeseed alcohol 0.5 (7) Cetyl palmitate 1.0 (8) Olefin oligomer solution *15 1.0 (9) Theobroma grandiflorum seed lipid 1.0 (10) Hydrogenated phospholipids*16 0.2 (11) Polyglyceryl-10 Pentahydroxystearate *6 0.1 (12) PEG-10 Phytosterol 1.0 (13) Purified water remainder (14) Xanthan gum 0.2 (15)(Acrylates / C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate) Crosspolymer 0.3 (16) DPG 10.0 (17) Glycosyl trehalose solution *17 3.0 (18) Pentylene glycol 1.0 (19) Sodium hyaluronate 0.05 (20) Methylparaben 0.1 (21) AMPD 0.2 (22) Water-soluble collagen solution *18 0.1 (23) Flavoring (appropriate amount) Weight ratio of liquid oil to total amount of lubricant: 0.40
[0037] (Manufacturing method) Components 1-12 were uniformly mixed and heated to 80°C to form the oil phase. Components 13-21 were uniformly mixed and heated to 80°C to form the aqueous phase. After mixing the oil and aqueous phases, components 22 and 23 were added at 60°C, and the mixture was cooled to 30°C to obtain a beauty serum with a viscosity of 8118 mPa·s.
[0038] (Example 29: Emulsion) (Ingredients) (Weight%) (1) Lauroyl glutamate di(octyldodecyl / phytosteryl / behenyl) *1 1.0 (2) Diisostearyl malate *5 2.0 (3) Theobroma grandiflorum seed lipid 2.0 (4) Lauroyl glutamate di(phytosteryl / octyldodecyl) *2 1.0 (5) Squalane 0.5 (6) Cetyl palmitate 1.0 (7) Olefin oligomer solution *15 1.0 (8) Hexa(hydroxystearic acid / stearic acid / rosinic acid)dipentaerythritol Lithyl 1.0 (9) Hydrogenated phospholipids*16 0.2 (10) Polyglyceryl-10 Pentahydroxystearate *6 0.1 (11) Sorbitan stearate 1.0 (12) Purified water remainder (13) Carbomer 0.25 (14) 1,3-Butylene glycol 10.0 (15) Glycerin 3.0 (16) Sodium hyaluronate 0.05 (17) Methylparaben 0.1 (18) AMPD 0.15 (19) Water-soluble collagen solution *18 0.1 (20) Phenoxyethanol 1.0 (21) Flavoring (appropriate amount) Weight ratio of liquid oil to total amount of lubricant: 0.47
[0039] (Manufacturing method) Components 1-11 were uniformly mixed and heated to 80°C to form the oil phase. Components 12-20 were uniformly mixed and heated to 80°C to form the aqueous phase. After mixing the oil and aqueous phases, component 21 was added at 60°C and cooled to 30°C to obtain an emulsion with a viscosity of 2178 mPa·s.
[0040] *1 Plandool-LG1 (manufactured by Nippon Seika Co., Ltd.) *2 Plandool-LG2 (manufactured by Nippon Seika Co., Ltd.) *3 NAA-222 (manufactured by NOF Corporation) *4 S Face VL-212 (manufactured by Sakamoto Pharmaceutical Co., Ltd.) *5 Esterol DISM (manufactured by National Mimatsu Co., Ltd.) *6 NIKKOL Decaglyn 5-HS (manufactured by Nikko Chemicals Co., Ltd.) *7 KAK TTI (manufactured by Kogyo Kogyo Co., Ltd.) *8 Pearl Ream 6 (manufactured by NOF Corporation) *9 NIKKOL DGMS (manufactured by Nikko Chemicals Co., Ltd.) *10 NIKKOL Decaglyn 5-ISV (manufactured by Nikko Chemicals Co., Ltd.) *11 NIKKOL Tetraglyn 1-OV (manufactured by Nikko Chemicals Co., Ltd.) *12 NIKKOL Decaglyn 3-OV (manufactured by Nikko Chemicals Co., Ltd.) *13 DOWSIL SH 3775 M (manufactured by Dow-Toray) *14 NIKKOL SI-10RV (manufactured by Nikko Chemicals Co., Ltd.) *15 Nomucoat HP-100 (manufactured by Nisshin Oillio Group Co., Ltd.) *16 NIKKOL Recinol S-PIE (manufactured by Nikko Chemicals Co., Ltd.) *17 Tornare (manufactured by Nagase Vita) *18 Alfomarine-CL (manufactured by Technoble Co., Ltd.) [Industrial applicability]
[0041] According to the present invention, it is possible to provide a liquid oil-in-water emulsion cosmetic that provides a high level of moisturizing effect after application while suppressing stickiness and greasiness, and exhibiting excellent long-term stability.
Claims
1. The following components (A) to (C) (A) Lauroyl glutamate di(octyldodecyl / phytosteryl / behenyl) (B) Diisostearyl malate (C) Polyglycerin fatty acid ester A liquid oil-in-water emulsion cosmetic characterized by containing the following: the content of component (A) lauroyl glutamate di(octyldodecyl / phytosteryl / behenyl) is 0.3 to 3% by weight; the content of component (B) diisostearyl malate is 0.05 to 7% by weight; the HLB of component (C) polyglycerin fatty acid ester is 6.0 or less; and the weight ratio of liquid oil to the total amount of oil is 0.20 to 0.
55.
2. The liquid oil-in-water emulsion cosmetic according to claim 1, characterized in that the aforementioned component (C) polyglycerin fatty acid ester is polyglyceryl-10 pentahydroxystearate, and its content is 0.01 to 2% by weight.