Hair treatment composition
Hair treatment compositions with surfactants, amino acids, and fiber-activating substances address the need for damage repair by raising protein denaturation temperature, effectively restoring hair health.
Patent Information
- Authority / Receiving Office
- JP · JP
- Patent Type
- Applications
- Current Assignee / Owner
- UNILEVER IP HLDG BV
- Filing Date
- 2024-04-19
- Publication Date
- 2026-05-29
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Abstract
Description
[Technical Field]
[0001] Disclosed herein are hair treatment compositions. These hair treatment compositions comprise a surfactant, an amino acid, and a fiber active substance. The surfactant may include anionic surfactants, amphoteric surfactants, nonionic surfactants, zwitterionic surfactants, cationic surfactants, or combinations thereof. [Background technology]
[0002] Consumers regularly engage in intensive treatment, care, and styling routines for their hair to help achieve their desired look. These actions cause chemical modifications to the keratin proteins in the hair, resulting in microscopic and macroscopic structural changes, which in turn alter the physical properties of the fibers. These results are generally perceived by consumers as damage.
[0003] Combing and brushing hair mechanically wears down the cuticles of the fibers, making them rougher and increasing their frictional properties. Hair lightening treatments such as bleaching or coloring generally involve oxidation processes to break down melanin and develop new hair color, but these processes also oxidize the hair fiber proteins and endogenous lipids. These reactions change the number and type of covalent and non-covalent bonds in the fibers, affecting the thermal stability and mechanical properties of the hair. The internal proteins of damaged hair typically have a lower denaturation temperature compared to those of virgin hair.
[0004] Various organic molecules and their combinations have been proposed for use in treating damaged hair.
[0005] International patent application WO 2004 / 054526 describes a hair treatment composition comprising a disaccharide (particularly trehalose) for the care and repair of damaged hair and for improving the manageability of the hair.
[0006] International Patent Application No. WO 2004 / 054525 describes a hair treatment composition comprising disaccharides (especially trehalose) and diols (especially 3-methyl-1,3-butanediol) for the care and repair of damaged hair and for improving the manageability of the hair.
[0007] International Patent Application WO 2009 / 040240 discloses a hair treatment composition comprising lactones and disaccharides for the treatment of dry, damaged, and / or unmanageable hair.
[0008] U.S. Patent No. 11,612,554 discloses a composition comprising (a) at least one negatively charged amino acid and its derivative, (b) at least one positively charged amino acid and its derivative, (c) at least one silicone copolymer, and (d) at least one emulsifier.
[0009] CN application 106580726 discloses a gentle, silicone-free, fast-lathering, clear shampoo.
[0010] Mintel's Super Damage Repair Hair Care Set includes a damage repair kit formulated with 12 types of amino acids to not only restore the quality of the hair from within, but also to cleanse and thoroughly moisturize the hair.
[0011] Mintel's No Wash Recovery Cream Treatment is a no-rinse cream-type treatment that can be used on wet hair and leaves a clean finish, eliminating the need to wash your hands afterward. It contains hydrolyzed silk, keratin, collagen protein, and five types of plant-based proteins.
[0012] U.S. Patent No. 10,568,820 B2 discloses a method for inhibiting copper deposition in hair and promoting the removal of copper deposited in hair, comprising the steps of: applying a decolorizing or oxidative dyeing composition containing a chelating agent to the hair; rinsing off the decolorizing or oxidative dyeing composition; applying a rinse-off conditioner containing histidine to the hair; rinsing off the rinse-off conditioner composition from the hair; applying a shampoo composition having ethylenediamine-N,N'-disuccinic acid and / or histidine to the hair; rinsing off the shampoo composition from the hair; applying a rinse-off conditioner containing histidine to the hair; and rinsing off the conditioner composition from the hair.
[0013] International Publication No. WO 2012 / 054029 A1 discloses hair repair compositions containing polymer electrolyte complexes. Methods of use, methods of manufacturing them, methods for testing their effectiveness, and media methods involved in hair repair are also disclosed.
[0014] Minel's Great Hair Day Set is a set of shampoo, conditioner, and 3-minute conditioner. The shampoo is designed for damaged hair and is free of paraffin, silicone, and colorants. The conditioner is also designed for damaged hair and is free of paraffin and colorants. The 3-minute conditioner is absorbed directly into the hair and repairs it without weighing it down.
[0015] Korean Patent No. 102276289 B1 discloses a hair composition containing (PEG-240 / decyltetradeceth-20 / HDI) copolymer and polyquaternium-92. It is possible to reinforce damaged hair. [Prior art documents] [Patent Documents]
[0016] [Patent Document 1] International Patent Application No. WO 2004 / 054526 [Patent Document 2] International Patent Application No. WO 2004 / 054525 [Patent Document 3] International Patent Application No. WO 2009 / 040240 [Patent Document 4] U.S. Patent No. 11,612,554 [Patent Document 5] CN Application 106580726 [Patent Document 6] US Patent No. 10,568,820 B2 [Patent Document 7] International Publication No. WO 2012 / 054029 A1 [Patent Document 8] Korean Patent No. 102276289 B1 [Patent Document 9] International Patent Application No. WO 1992 / 06154 [Patent Document 10] U.S. Patent No. 5,194,639 [Patent Document 11] U.S. Patent No. 4,009,256 [Patent Document 12] International Application No. WO 95 / 22311 [Patent Document 13] U.S. Patent No. 3,962,418 [Patent Document 14] U.S. Patent No. 3,958,581 [Patent Document 15] International Application No. WO 2003 / 094874 [Patent Document 16] U.S. Patent Application Publication No. 2016 / 0000669A1 [Overview of the project] [Problems that the invention aims to solve]
[0017] There is a continuing demand for hair treatment compositions that not only do not damage the hair, but also repair damage previously inflicted on the hair. [Means for solving the problem]
[0018] Disclosed in various forms are hair treatment compositions.
[0019] The hair treatment composition comprises a surfactant, including anionic surfactants, amphoteric surfactants, nonionic surfactants, zwitterionic surfactants, cationic surfactants, or combinations thereof; an amino acid; and a fiber-activating substance.
[0020] These and other features and characteristics are described in more detail below. [Modes for carrying out the invention]
[0021] Disclosed herein are hair treatment compositions. These hair treatment compositions may contain surfactants, amino acids, and fiber-active substances. These hair treatment compositions can be used to repair damage to hair proteins. For example, these hair treatment compositions can be used to repair or replace hydrogen bonds that may have been broken due to damage or stress to the hair. These hair treatment compositions can be used to raise the denaturation temperature of the internal proteins of the hair. These compositions can be applied to the hair multiple times to provide gradual damage repair, such as repairing or replacing more hydrogen bonds and raising the protein denaturation temperature. It is possible to raise the protein denaturation temperature to the same level as or higher than that of virgin hair.
[0022] The hair may be virgin hair or damaged hair. Virgin hair as disclosed herein means hair that has not been subjected to intensive physical and / or chemical treatments, such as bleaching, dyeing, perming, heat treatment, and prolonged exposure to strong and / or solar radiation; or hair that does not exhibit characteristics specific to damaged hair, such as split ends and / or excessive dryness. Virgin hair includes hair that has maintained a low level of damage throughout its natural hair life cycle. Causes of low-level damage may include, but are not limited to, washing, brushing, combing, and natural processes such as, for example, limited photodegradation by sunlight. Preferably, the hair is damaged hair.
[0023] Damage can be caused by mechanical means, such as combing and brushing; chemical means, exposure to heat; and environmental means, such as sunlight and damage-causing energy sources, such as exposure to light, such as ultraviolet light. Chemical means include oxidation processes, such as lightening the hair, such as bleaching and coloring treatments. Preferably, the hair is bleached, more preferably multiple times.
[0024] Hair can be straight, wavy, curly, or tightly curled or coiled. Straight hair (also known as Type 1 hair) is shiny and elastic. Straight hair is characterized by a fine, brittle texture and is very difficult to curl. Wavy hair (also known as Type 2 hair) has loose "S" shaped curls. Shine varies between straight and curly hair, and can range from fine to thick textures. Wavy hair is more prone to frizz than Type 1 hair. Curly hair (also known as Type 3 hair) has loose curls to corkscrew curls, which are typically defined as a "rounded S" shape. This type of hair is more prone to frizz and is very susceptible to damage. Without proper care, curly hair may lose its definition and appear more frizzy. Tightly curled or coiled hair (also known as type 4 hair) is characterized by tight, coiled, coarse curls (or a complete lack of visible curl pattern). It is dense and very brittle. Tightly curled or coiled hair has a "Z" pattern, and typically, this hair bends at sharp angles rather than the gentle curls seen in wavy or curly hair. Tightly curled or coiled hair often shrinks when wet because it has fewer cuticle layers and is more susceptible to damage than other hair types.
[0025] The surfactants in this hair treatment composition may include anionic surfactants, amphoteric surfactants, nonionic surfactants, zwitterionic surfactants, cationic surfactants, or combinations thereof. The surfactants may be present in amounts of 1 to 60% by mass, for example, 2 to 50% by mass, for example, 2 to 40% by mass, for example, 2 to 37% by mass, for example, 2 to 30% by mass, based on the total mass of the composition, and encompass all possible ranges and values. The surfactants may vary depending on whether the end-use product is a shampoo, conditioner, leave-in conditioner, mask, serum, etc.
[0026] This hair treatment composition may be made without the use of sulfate-based surfactants. As used herein, "substantially absent" or "essentially absent" refers to an amount of 1% by mass or less, for example, 0.5% by mass or less, for example, 0.25% by mass or less, for example, 0.1% by mass or less, for example, 0.01% by mass or less, for example, 0% by mass, based on the total mass of the hair treatment composition.
[0027] shampoo The shampoo compositions disclosed herein are generally aqueous, that is, they have water, an aqueous solution, or a lyotropic liquid crystal phase as their main component.
[0028] Preferably, the shampoo composition may contain 50 to 98% by mass, for example, 55 to 90% by mass, of water relative to the total mass of the composition.
[0029] The shampoo compositions disclosed herein generally comprise one or more anionic cleansing surfactants that are cosmetically acceptable and preferably applied topically to the hair.
[0030] Examples of anionic cleansing surfactants include alkyl sulfates, alkyl ether sulfates, alkali sulfonates, alkanoyl isethionates, alkyl succinates, alkyl sulfosuccinates, alkyl ether sulfosuccinates, N-alkyl sarcosinates, alkyl phosphates, alkyl ether phosphates, and alkyl ether carboxylic acids and their salts, particularly their sodium, magnesium, ammonium, and mono-, di-, and triethanolamine salts. The alkyl and acyl groups generally contain 8 to 18 carbon atoms, preferably 10 to 16, and may be unsaturated. Alkyl ether sulfates, alkyl ether sulfosuccinates, alkyl ether phosphates, and alkyl ether carboxylic acids, and their salts, may contain 1 to 20 ethylene oxide or propylene oxide units per molecule.
[0031] In embodiments of this hair treatment composition, the anionic surfactant may include sodium lauroyl glycinate, sodium cocoyl glycinate, sodium lauroyl glutamate, sodium cocoyl glutamate, sodium lauroyl isethionate, sodium cocoyl isethionate, sodium laureth sulfate, sodium pareth sulfate, alpha-olefin sulfonate (AOS) (e.g., sodium alpha-olefin sulfonate), or combinations thereof. Such anionic surfactants are commercially available from suppliers such as Galaxy Surfactants, Clariant, Sino Lion, Stepan, and Innospec. In embodiments, the hair treatment cleansing composition is essentially sulfate-free.
[0032] Other anionic cleansing surfactants for use in the shampoo compositions disclosed herein may include sodium oleylsuccinate, ammonium lauryl sulfosuccinate, sodium lauryl sulfate, sodium lauryl ether sulfate, sodium lauryl ether sulfosuccinate, ammonium lauryl sulfate, ammonium lauryl ether sulfate, sodium dodecylbenzenesulfonate, triethanolamine dodecylbenzenesulfonate, sodium cocoyl isethionate, sodium lauryl isethionate, lauryl ether carboxylic acid, and sodium N-lauryl sarcosinate.
[0033] Further anionic cleansing surfactants may include sodium lauryl sulfate, sodium lauryl ether sulfate (n)EO (where n is 1 to 3), sodium lauryl ether sulfosuccinate (n)EO (where n is 1 to 3), ammonium lauryl sulfate, ammonium lauryl ether sulfate (n)EO (where n is 1 to 3), sodium cocoyl isethionate, and lauryl ether carboxylic acid (n)EO (where n is 10 to 20).
[0034] Anionic surfactants may include sodium lauroyl glycinate, sodium cocoyl glycinate, sodium lauroyl glutamate, sodium cocoyl glutamate, sodium lauroyl isethionate, sodium cocoyl isethionate, sodium lauroyl methyl taurate, sodium cocoyl methyl taurate, sodium alpha-olefin sulfonate, or combinations thereof.
[0035] Any mixture of the aforementioned anionic cleansing surfactants can be used.
[0036] The total amount of anionic cleansing surfactant present in the shampoo composition of this hair treatment composition can be 0.5 to 45%, for example, 1.5 to 35%, for example, 5 to 20%, for example, 12 to 20%, for example, 15 to 20%, relative to the total mass of the composition, and includes all possible ranges and values within that range.
[0037] Optionally, the shampoo composition of this hair treatment composition may contain further ingredients as described to enhance performance and / or consumer acceptability.
[0038] This composition may contain auxiliary surfactants to help impart aesthetic, physical, or cleansing properties to the composition.
[0039] Examples of auxiliary surfactants include nonionic surfactants that may be present in an amount of 0.5 to 8% by mass, preferably 2 to 5% by mass, relative to the total mass of the composition, encompassing all possible ranges and values.
[0040] For example, typical nonionic surfactants that may be included in the shampoo composition of this hair treatment composition are aliphatic (C8~C) surfactants. 18 ) It comprises a condensation product of a primary or secondary linear or branched alcohol or phenol and an alkylene oxide, usually ethylene oxide, and generally contains 6 to 30 ethylene oxide groups.
[0041] Other representative nonionic surfactants include mono- or di-alkyl alkanolamides. Examples include coco-mono- or di-ethanolamides and coco-mono-isopropanolamides.
[0042] Further nonionic surfactants that may be included in the shampoo composition of this hair treatment composition include alkyl polyglycosides (APGs). Typically, APGs contain alkyl groups bonded (optionally via crosslinking groups) to one or more glycosyl group blocks. Preferred APGs are of the following formula: RO - (G) n (In the formula, R is a branched or linear alkyl group which may be saturated or unsaturated, and G is a saccharide group.) Defined by:
[0043] R is approximately C5 to approximately C 20 This may represent the average alkyl chain length. Preferably, R is C8~C 12 This represents the average alkyl chain length. Most preferably, the value is R9.5 to 10.5. G may be selected from a C5 or C6 monosaccharide residue, preferably a glucoside. G may be selected from the group including glucose, xylose, lactose, fructose, mannose, and their derivatives. Preferably, G is glucose.
[0044] The degree of polymerization n may have a value of about 1 to about 10 or more. Preferably, the value of n is about 1.1 to about 2. Most preferably, the value of n is about 1.3 to about 1.5.
[0045] Suitable alkyl polyglycosides are commercially available and include, for example, those identified as ORAMIX® NS10 ex Seppic; PLANTAREN® 1200; and PLANTAREN® 2000 ex Henkel.
[0046] Other sugar-derived nonionic surfactants that can be included in the composition include, for example, C 12 ~C 18 N-methylglucamide and the like, C 10 ~C 18 N-alkyl (C l ~C6) polyhydroxy fatty acid amides, and C 10 ~C 18 N-(3-methoxypropyl) glucamide and the like, N-alkoxy polyhydroxy fatty acid amides.
[0047] Preferred examples of the co-surfactant can be included in an amount of 0.5 to 20% by mass, for example, 1 to 18% by mass, for example, 5 to 18% by mass, for example, 10 to 18% by mass, for example, 12 to 28% by mass, based on the total mass of the composition, and all ranges and values included therein are included.
[0048] Amphoteric surfactants (which can become zwitterionic depending on pH) include sodium acyl amphoacetate, sodium acyl amphopropionate, disodium acyl amphodiacetate, and disodium acyl amphodipropionate, and the acyl (i.e., alkanoyl group) can include a C7~C 18 alkyl moiety. Exemplary examples of the amphoteric surfactant are sodium lauroamphoacetate, sodium cocoamphoacetate, or a combination thereof.
[0049] Regarding the zwitterionic surfactant used in the present hair treatment composition, such a surfactant contains at least one acid group. Such an acid group may be a carboxylic acid group or a sulfonic acid group. They often contain a quaternary nitrogen and can thus be quaternary amino acids. They generally contain an alkyl or alkenyl group of 7 to 18 carbon atoms, and the overall structural formula: R 6 -[-C(O)-NH(CH2) q -] r -N + (R 7 )(R8 )-AB (In the formula, R 6 R is an alkyl or alkenyl molecule with 7 to 18 carbon atoms; 7 and R 8 (Each is independently an alkyl, hydroxyalkyl, or carboxyalkyl group of 1 to 3 carbon atoms; q is 2 to 4; r is 0 to 1; A is an alkylene group of 1 to 3 carbon atoms optionally substituted with hydroxyl, and B is -CO2- or -SO3-) You should generally follow this rule.
[0050] A desirable zwitterionic surfactant for use in the cleansing compositions disclosed herein, within the range of the above general formula, is: R 6 -N + (R 7 )(R 8 )-CH2CO2 - The simple betaine of, and formula: R 6 -CONH(CH2) t -N + (R 7 )(R 8 )-CH2CO2 - (In the formula, t is either 2 or 3) It contains amidobetaine.
[0051] In both equations, R 6 , R 7 , and R 8 This is as previously defined. 6 In particular, at least half, preferably at least three-quarters of R 6 The group has 10 to 14 carbon atoms, derived from coconut oil. 12 and C 14 A mixture of alkyl groups may also be used. 7 and R 8 Preferably, it is methyl.
[0052] As a further possibility, zwitterionic surfactants have the formula: R 6 -N + (R 7 )(R 8 )-(CH2)3SO3 - or R 6 -CONH(CH2) u -N + (R 7 )(R 8 )-(CH2)3SO3 - (In the formula, u is either 2 or 3) sulfobetaine, or -(CH2)3SO3 - However, -CH2C(OH)(H)CH2SO3 - These are the variants that have been replaced by [the other variants]. In these equations, R 6 , R 7 , and R 8 This is as previously defined.
[0053] Exemplary examples of zwitterionic surfactants desirable for use include betaines, e.g., lauryl betaine, citrate betaine, cocodimethylcarboxymethyl betaine, cocoamidopropyl betaine, cocoalkyldimethyl betaine, and laurylamidopropyl betaine. Further zwitterionic surfactants suitable for use include cocoamidopropyl sultaine, e.g., cocamidopropyl hydroxysultaine. Preferred zwitterionic surfactants include lauryl betaine, citrate betaine, sodium hydroxymethylglycinate, (carboxymethyl)dimethyl-3-[(1-oxododecyl)amino]propylammonium hydroxide, cocoalkyldimethyl betaine, (carboxymethyl)dimethyloleylammonium hydroxide, cocoamidopropyl betaine, (carboxymethyl)dimethyloleylammonium hydroxide, cocoamidopropyl betaine, (carboxylatomethyl)dimethyl(octadecyl)ammonium, cocamidopropyl hydroxysultaine, or combinations thereof. The most preferred zwitterionic surfactants include cocodimethylcarboxymethyl betaine, cocamidopropyl betaine, laurylamidopropyl betaine, cocamidopropyl hydroxysultaine, lauryl hydroxysultaine, cocamide monoethanolamide, or combinations thereof. Such surfactants are commercially available from suppliers such as Stepan, Solvay, and Evonik, and the use of mixtures of the above-mentioned surfactants is within the scope of the cleansing compositions disclosed herein.
[0054] Any mixture of the aforementioned amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants can be used. A preferred mixture is cocamidopropyl betaine with any further amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactant described above. A preferred further amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactant is sodium cocoamphoacetate.
[0055] The total amount of surfactants (including any auxiliary surfactants and / or any emulsifiers) in the shampoo composition of this hair treatment composition may be 1 to 50% by mass, for example, 2 to 40% by mass, for example, 10 to 40% by mass, for example, 10 to 35% by mass, based on the total mass of the composition, and includes all possible ranges and values within that range.
[0056] Cationic polymers are preferred components in the shampoo composition of this hair treatment composition because they enhance conditioning performance.
[0057] The desired cationic polymer may be a cation-substituted homopolymer or may be formed from two or more monomers. The mass average (M) of the polymer. w The molecular weight can range from 100,000 to 2,000,000 Daltons. The polymer will have cationic nitrogen-containing groups such as quaternary ammonium or protonated amino groups, or combinations thereof. If the molecular weight of the polymer is too small, the conditioning effect will be insufficient. If it is too large, problems with high extensional viscosity may occur, causing the composition to string when poured.
[0058] Cationic nitrogen-containing groups can generally exist as substituents on a portion of the total monomer units of a cationic polymer. Therefore, when a polymer is not a homopolymer, it may contain spacer non-cationic monomer units. Such polymers are listed in the CTFA Cosmetic Ingredient Directory, 3rd edition. The ratio of cationic monomer units to non-cationic monomer units is selected to obtain a polymer with a cationic charge density within the required range, generally between 0.2 and 3.0 milliequivalents (meq / gm) per gram. The cationic charge density of a polymer is appropriately determined by the Kjeldahl method described in the United States Pharmacopeia, under chemical testing for nitrogen determination.
[0059] Desired cationic polymers include, for example, copolymers of a vinyl monomer having cationic amine or quaternary ammonium functionality with a water-soluble spacer monomer such as (meth)acrylamide, alkyl and dialkyl(meth)acrylamide, alkyl(meth)acrylate, vinylcaprolactone, and vinylpyrrolidine. The alkyl and dialkyl-substituted monomers preferably have C1-C7 alkyl groups, more preferably C1-3 alkyl groups. Other suitable spacers include vinyl esters, vinyl alcohols, maleic anhydride, propylene glycol, and ethylene glycol.
[0060] Cationic amines can be primary, secondary, or tertiary amines, depending on the specific species and pH of the composition. Generally, secondary and tertiary amines, particularly tertiary amines, are preferred.
[0061] Amine-substituted vinyl monomers and amines can be polymerized in amine form and then converted to ammonium by quaternization.
[0062] Cationic polymers may include mixtures of monomer units derived from amine- and / or quaternary ammonium-substituted monomers and / or compatible spacer monomers.
[0063] Suitable cationic polymers include, for example: - For example, a cationic diallyl quaternary ammonium-containing polymer, which includes dimethyldiallylammonium chloride homopolymers, referred to in the industry as polyquaternium-6 and polyquaternium-7 (CTFA), respectively, and a copolymer of acrylamide and dimethyldiallylammonium chloride. - Mineral salts of aminoalkyl esters of homopolymers and copolymers of unsaturated carboxylic acids having 3 to 5 carbon atoms (as described in U.S. Patent No. 4,009,256), - Cationic polyacrylamide (described in International Application No. WO 95 / 22311), - A cationic diallyl quaternary ammonium-containing polymer (PQ-10) containing a polymeric quaternary ammonium salt of hydroxyethylcellulose reacted with a trimethylammonium substituent, - PQ-28 (Polyvinylpyrrolidone-methacrylamidopropyltrimethylammonium chloride).
[0064] Other cationic polymers that can be used include cationic polysaccharide polymers, such as cationic cellulose derivatives, cationic starch derivatives, and cationic guar gum derivatives.
[0065] Cationic polysaccharide polymers suitable for use in the compositions disclosed herein are those of the formula: AO-[RN + (R 1 )(R 2 )(R 3 )X - ] (In the formula, A is an anhydrous glucose residue, for example, a starch or cellulose anhydrous glucose residue. R is an alkylene group, an oxyalkylene group, a polyoxyalkylene group, or a hydroxyalkylene group, or a combination thereof. 1 , R 2 , and R 3 (The terms "alkyl" independently represent an alkyl group, an aryl group, an alkylaryl group, an arylalkyl group, an alkoxyalkyl group, or an alkoxyaryl group, each containing up to approximately 18 carbon atoms.) It contains monomers. The total number of carbon atoms in each cationic moiety (i.e., R 1 , R 2 , and R 3 The total number of carbon atoms in the molecule is preferably about 20 or less, and X is an anionic counterion.
[0066] Another type of cationic cellulose includes polymeric quaternary ammonium salts of hydroxyethylcellulose reacted with lauryldimethylammonium-substituted epoxides, known industryly as polyquaternium-24 and (CTFA). These materials are available from Amerchol Corporation, for example, under the trademark name Polymer LM-200.
[0067] Other suitable cationic polysaccharide polymers include quaternary nitrogen-containing cellulose ethers (e.g., described in U.S. Patent No. 3,962,418) and copolymers of etherified cellulose and starch (e.g., described in U.S. Patent No. 3,958,581).
[0068] Particularly suitable types of cationic polysaccharide polymers that can be used are cationic guar gum derivatives, such as guar hydroxypropyltrimethylammonium chloride (commercially available from Rhodia under its JAGUAR trademark series). Examples of such materials are JAGUAR® C13S, JAGUAR® C14, JAGUAR® C15, and JAGUAR® C17.
[0069] Any mixture of the cationic polymers described above can be used.
[0070] Cationic polymers are generally present in the shampoo composition of this hair treatment composition at a level of 0.01 to 5%, preferably 0.05 to 1%, more preferably 0.08 to 0.5%, relative to the total mass of the composition, and include all possible ranges and values.
[0071] The aqueous shampoo composition of this hair treatment composition may further contain a suspending agent. Preferred suspending agents are selected from polyacrylic acid, crosslinked polymers of acrylic acid, copolymers of acrylic acid and hydrophobic monomers, copolymers of carboxylic acid-containing monomers and acrylic acid esters, crosslinked copolymers of acrylic acid and acrylate esters, heteropolysaccharide gums, and crystalline long-chain acyl derivatives. The long-chain acyl derivatives are preferably selected from ethylene glycol stearate, alkanolamides of fatty acids having 16 to 22 carbon atoms, and mixtures thereof. Ethylene glycol distearate and polyethylene glycol distearate 3 are preferred long-chain acyl derivatives because they give the composition a pearly luster. Polyacrylic acid is commercially available as CARBOPOL® 420, CARBOPOL® 488, or CARBOPOL® 493. Acrylic acid polymers crosslinked with polyfunctional agents can also be used, and these are commercially available as CARBOPOL® 910, CARBOPOL® 934, CARBOPOL® 941, and CARBOPOL® 980. A suitable example of a copolymer of a carboxylic acid-containing monomer and an acrylic acid ester is CARBOPOL® 1342. All CARBOPOL® materials are available from Goodrich.
[0072] Suitable crosslinking polymers for acrylic acid and acrylate esters are PEMULEN® TR1 or PEMULEN® TR2. Suitable heteropolysaccharide gums are xanthan gums, such as Kelzan mu, which are available.
[0073] Any mixture of the above suspending agents can be used. Preferably, it is a mixture of a crosslinked polymer of acrylic acid and a crystalline long-chain acyl derivative.
[0074] The suspending agent can generally be present in the shampoo composition of the hair treatment composition at a level of 0.1 to 10%, for example, 0.5 to 6%, for example, 0.9 to 4% by the total mass of the suspending agent relative to the total mass of the composition, and all ranges and values included therein are included.
[0075] Conditioner (rinse-off, leave-in, mask, oil, serum) The conditioner composition will typically contain one or more cationic conditioning surfactants that are cosmetically acceptable and suitable for topical application to the hair.
[0076] Preferably, the cationic conditioning surfactant has the formula N + (R 1 )(R 2 )(R 3 )(R 4 (wherein R 1 , R 2 , R 3 , and R 4 are independently (C1 - C 30 ) alkyl or benzyl).
[0077] Preferably, one, two, or three of R 1 , R 2 , R 3 , and R 4 are independently (C4 - C 30 ) alkyl, and one or more of the other R 1 , R 2 , R 3 , and R 4 groups are (C1 - C6) alkyl or benzyl.
[0078] More preferably, one or two of R 1 , R 2 , R 3 , and R 4 are independently (C6 - C 30 ) alkyl, and the other R 1 , R 2 , R 3 , and R 4The group is a (C1-C6) alkyl group or a benzyl group. Optionally, the alkyl group may contain one or more ester (-OCO- or -COO-) and / or ether (-O-) bonds within the alkyl chain. The alkyl group may optionally be substituted with one or more hydroxyl groups. The alkyl group may be linear or branched, and if it has three or more carbon atoms, it may be cyclic. The alkyl group may be saturated or may contain one or more carbon-carbon double bonds (e.g., oleyl). Optionally, the alkyl group may be ethoxylated with one or more ethyleneoxy groups on the alkyl chain.
[0079] This hair treatment composition may contain 0.01 to 10 wt% of primary linear cationic conditioning surfactants by total mass of the hair treatment composition, including all possible ranges and values contained therein, and structure 1
[0080] [ka]
[0081] (In the formula, R1 comprises a linear alkyl chain having a carbon-carbon chain length of C16-C24, preferably C18-C22. R2 comprises a proton, or a linear alkyl chain having a carbon-carbon chain length of C1-C4, preferably C1-C2, or a benzyl group. (X is either an organic or inorganic anion.) Selected from and mixtures thereof.
[0082] Preferably, the carbon-carbon chain length of R1 in structure 1 differs from the carbon-carbon chain length of R3 in structure 2 by 3 to 12, more preferably 4 to 12, even more preferably 6 to 12, and most preferably 6 to 10 carbon atoms, such that the carbon-carbon chain length of R1 in structure 1 is longer than the carbon-carbon chain length of R3 in structure 2.
[0083] In Structure 1, the amine head group is charged in the final formulation. The raw materials include species whose charge is not permanent and can be induced in the formulation by protonation using a strong acid. In the above general formula, when R2 is a proton, that proton may be present in the raw materials or may associate during formulation.
[0084] Optionally, the alkyl group may contain one or more ester (-OCO- or -COO-), amide (-NOC- or NCO-), and / or ether (-O-) bonds within the alkyl chain. The alkyl group may optionally be substituted with one or more hydroxyl groups. The alkyl group may be linear or branched, and if it has three or more carbon atoms, it may be cyclic. The alkyl group may be saturated or may contain one or more carbon-carbon double bonds (e.g., oleyl). Optionally, the alkyl group may be ethoxylated with one or more ethyleneoxy groups on the alkyl chain.
[0085] A quaternary amine salt suitable for use in a conditioner composition is a quaternary amine salt containing 12 to 24 carbon atoms, preferably 16 to 22 carbon atoms.
[0086] Quaternary amine salts suitable for use in conditioner compositions include cetyltrimethylammonium chloride, behentrimonium chloride, behenyltrimethylammonium chloride, behentrimonium methosulfate, behenylamidopropyldimethylamine, cetyltrimethylammonium chloride, cetylpyridinium chloride, tetramethylammonium chloride, tetraethylammonium chloride, octyltrimethylammonium chloride, dodecyltrimethylammonium chloride, hexadecyltrimethylammonium chloride, octyldimethylbenzylammonium chloride, decyldimethylbenzylammonium chloride, stearyldimethylbenzylammonium chloride, stearalkonium chloride, stearalkonium methosulfate, didodecyldimethylammonium chloride, dioctadecyldimethylammonium chloride, talotrimethylammonium chloride, and dihydrogenated talodimethylammonium chloride (e.g., Arquad from Akzo Nobel). Contains 2HT / 75), cocotrimethylammonium chloride, or a combination thereof.
[0087] Preferred quaternary amine salts may be selected from behentrimonium chloride, behenyltrimethylammonium chloride, behentrimonium methosulfate, cetyltrimethylammonium chloride, or combinations thereof. Behentrimonium chloride can be combined with a solvent (e.g., isopropyl alcohol, dipropylene glycol, etc.) in this composition.
[0088] This composition, structure 2:
[0089] [ka]
[0090] (In the formula, R2 comprises a proton, or a linear alkyl chain having a carbon-carbon chain length of C1-C4, preferably C1-C2, or a benzyl group. R3 comprises a linear alkyl chain having a carbon-carbon chain length of C3 to a maximum of C15, preferably C10 to C14. (X is either an organic or inorganic anion.) It may contain a linear cationic auxiliary surfactant, The carbon-carbon chain length of R1 in structure 1 differs from the carbon-carbon chain length of R3 in structure 2 by at least 3 carbon atoms, such that the carbon-carbon chain length of R1 in structure 1 is longer than the carbon-carbon chain length of R3 in structure 2. The molar ratio of the linear cationic auxiliary surfactant (iv) to the linear cationic conditioning main surfactant (i) is 1:20 to 1:1, preferably 1:10 to 1:1, and preferably 1:5 to 1:2.
[0091] Preferably, the carbon-carbon chain length of R1 in structure 1 differs from the carbon-carbon chain length of R3 in structure 2 by 3 to 12, more preferably 4 to 12, even more preferably 6 to 12, and most preferably 6 to 10 carbon atoms, such that the carbon-carbon chain length of R1 in structure 1 is longer than the carbon-carbon chain length of R3 in structure 2.
[0092] R3 is C3 to a maximum of C15, preferably C3 to C 14 , futur C6~C 14 , even more preferably C8 to C 14 , most preferably C 10 ~C 14 It contains a linear alkyl chain having a carbon-carbon chain length.
[0093] The linear auxiliary surfactant can be present in an amount of 0.01 to 5 wt%, preferably 0.1 to 2, more preferably 0.1 to 1.0, and most preferably 0.2 to 0.7 wt%, relative to the mass of the total composition, and includes all possible ranges and values.
[0094] X is an organic or inorganic anion. Preferably, X is a halide ion; general formula RSO3 -The formula comprises a sulfate (wherein R is a saturated or unsaturated alkyl group having 1 to 4 carbon atoms) and an anion selected from the anionic radicals of organic acids.
[0095] Preferred halide ions are selected from fluorides, chlorides, bromides, and iodides. Preferred anionic radicals of organic acids are selected from maleates, fumarates, oxalates, tartarates, citrates, lactates, and acetates. Preferred sulfates are methanesulfonates and ethanesulfonates.
[0096] Most preferably, X - This includes an anion selected from a halide, a methanesulfonate group, and an ethanesulfonate group.
[0097] In a preferred embodiment, • R3 has a carbon-carbon chain length of C 10 ~C 14 It contains saturated or unsaturated linear alkyl chains, R2 contains a proton or an alkyl chain having a carbon-carbon chain length of C1-C2. X is selected from halides, methanesulfonates, and ethanesulfonates.
[0098] An example of a suitable material according to Structure 2 is dodecyltrimethylammonium chloride.
[0099] Cationic conditioning surfactants suitable for use in the conditioner composition of this hair treatment composition include quaternary ammonium, amine salts, or combinations thereof. Cationic surfactants include behentrimonium chloride, cetyltrimethylammonium chloride, behenyltrimethylammonium chloride, cetylpyridinium chloride, tetramethylammonium chloride, tetraethylammonium chloride, octyltrimethylammonium chloride, dodecyltrimethylammonium chloride, hexadecyltrimethylammonium chloride, octyldimethylbenzylammonium chloride, decyldimethylbenzylammonium chloride, stearyldimethylbenzylammonium chloride, didodecyldimethylammonium chloride, dioctadecyldimethylammonium chloride, talotrimethylammonium chloride, dihydrogenated talodimethylammonium chloride, cocotrimethylammonium chloride This may include loride, PEG-2-oleammonium chloride, and their corresponding hydroxides, stearamidopropyl dimethylamine, stearamidopropyl diethylamine, stearamidoethyldiethylamine, stearamidoethyldimethylamine, palmitamidopropyl dimethylamine, palmitamidopropyl diethylamine, palmitamidoethyldiethylamine, palmitamidoethyldimethylamine, behenamidopropyl dimethylamine, behenamidopropyl diethylamine, behenamidoethyldiethylamine, behenamidoethyldimethylamine, arachidamidopropyl dimethylamine, arachidamidopropyl diethylamine, arachidamiethyldiethylamine, arachidamiethyldimethylamine, and / or combinations thereof.
[0100] Further preferred cationic surfactants include materials whose CTFA names are quaternium-5, quaternium-31, and quaternium-18. Any mixture of the aforementioned materials may also be preferred. A cationic surfactant for use in conditioners may be, for example, cetyltrimethylammonium chloride, commercially available as GENAMIN CTAC by the former Hoechst Celanese. Another cationic surfactant for use in conditioners may be, for example, behenyltrimethylammonium chloride, commercially available as GENAMIN KDMP by the former Clariant.
[0101] Another example of a suitable class of cationic conditioning surfactants is the combination of (i) and (ii) below, either alone or in mixture with one or more other cationic conditioning surfactants:
[0102] (i) General formula (I):
[0103] [ka]
[0104] (In the formula, R 1 This is a hydrocarbyl chain having 10 or more carbon atoms, R 2 and R 3 These are independently selected from hydrocarbyl chains of 1 to 10 carbon atoms. m is an integer between 1 and approximately 10. amidoamines corresponding to, and (ii) Acid.
[0105] In this specification, the term hydrocarbyl chain means an alkyl or alkenyl chain.
[0106] A preferred amidoamine compound is formula (I) (wherein, R 1 These are hydrocarbyl residues having 11 to 24 carbon atoms. R 2 and R 3 Each of these is independently a hydrocarbyl residue having 1 to about 4 carbon atoms, preferably an alkyl group. m is an integer between 1 and approximately 4. This is equivalent to [something].
[0107] Preferably, R 2 and R 3 This is either a methyl group or an ethyl group.
[0108] Preferably, m is 2 or 3, i.e., an ethylene group or a propylene group.
[0109] Preferred amidoamines useful in this specification include stearamidopropyldimethylamine, stearamidopropyldiethylamine, stearamidoethyldiethylamine, stearamidoethyldimethylamine, palmitamidopropyldimethylamine, palmitamidopropyldiethylamine, palmitamidoethyldiethylamine, palmitamidoethyldimethylamine, behenamidopropyldimethylamine, behenamidopropyldiethylamine, behenamidoethyldiethylamine, behenamidoethyldimethylamine, arachidamidopropyldimethylamine, arachidamidopropyldiethylamine, arachidamiethyldiethylamine, arachidamiethyldimethylamine, or combinations thereof.
[0110] Particularly preferred amidoamines useful in this specification are stearamidopropyldimethylamine, stearamidoethyldiethylamine, or combinations thereof.
[0111] The commercially available amideamines useful herein include stearamidopropyldimethylamine, trademarked LEXAMINE® S-13 from Inolex (Philadelphia, Pennsylvania, USA) and AMIDOAMINE® MSP from Nikko Co., Ltd. (Tokyo, Japan); stearamidoethyldiethylamine, trademarked AMIDOAMINE® S from Nikko Co., Ltd.; behenamidopropyldimethylamine, trademarked INCROMINE® BB from Croda Corporation (North Humberside, England); and various amideamines in the SCHERCODINE® series from Scher Corporation (Clifton, New Jersey, USA).
[0112] Acid (ii) may be any organic or mineral acid capable of protonating the amidoamine in the hair treatment composition. Suitable acids useful herein include hydrochloric acid, acetic acid, tartaric acid, fumaric acid, lactic acid, malic acid, succinic acid, and mixtures thereof. Preferably, the acid is selected from the group consisting of acetic acid, tartaric acid, hydrochloric acid, fumaric acid, and mixtures thereof.
[0113] The main role of the acid is to protonate the amidoamine in the hair treatment composition, thereby forming a tertiary amine salt (TAS) in situ within the hair treatment composition. The TAS is effectively a non-permanent quaternary ammonium or pseudo-quaternary ammonium cationic surfactant.
[0114] Ideally, the acid is present in an amount sufficient to protonate all of the amidoamines present, i.e., at least equimolar to the amount of amidoamines present in the composition.
[0115] In the conditioner of this hair treatment composition, the level of cationic conditioning surfactant can be 0.01 to 10%, for example, 0.05 to 7.5%, for example, 0.1 to 6%, for example, 1 to 6%, based on the total mass of the cationic conditioning surfactant relative to the total mass of the composition, and includes all possible ranges and values within that range.
[0116] Conditioners typically incorporate aliphatic alcohols. The combination of aliphatic alcohols and cationic surfactants in conditioning compositions is considered particularly advantageous because it leads to the formation of a lamellar phase in which the cationic surfactant is dispersed.
[0117] Typical aliphatic alcohols contain 8 to 22 carbon atoms, more preferably 16 to 22 carbon atoms. Aliphatic alcohols are typically compounds containing linear alkyl groups. Examples of desirable aliphatic alcohols include cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, or combinations thereof. The use of these materials is also advantageous in that it contributes to the overall conditioning properties of the hair treatment composition.
[0118] The level of aliphatic alcohols in the conditioners disclosed herein can be 0.01 to 10% by mass of the composition, for example, 0.1 to 8% by mass, for example, 0.2 to 7% by mass, for example, 0.3 to 6% by mass, and includes all possible ranges and values within that range. The mass ratio of cationic surfactant to aliphatic alcohol can be 1:1 to 1:10, for example, 1:1.5 to 1:8, for example, 1:2 to 1:5. If the mass ratio of cationic surfactant to aliphatic alcohol is too high, this may cause eye irritation from the composition. If the mass ratio is too low, some consumers may experience hair stiffness.
[0119] amino acid This hair treatment composition may contain amino acids that are basic amino acids, acidic amino acids, aliphatic amino acids, aromatic amino acids, neutral amino acids, or combinations thereof. The term "amino acid" refers to a molecule that contains both an amino group and a carboxyl group. Amino acids may belong to the L-form or D-form, or may be in a racemic state.
[0120] Basic amino acids This hair treatment composition may contain basic amino acids.
[0121] The term "basic amino acid" refers to an amino acid that contains a group that is more basic than the carboxylic acid group (e.g., amino, amidino, guanidino). Examples of such basic amino acids include natural and unnatural diaminomonocarboxylic acids, such as α,β-diaminopropionic acid; α,γ-diaminobutyric acid; lysine, arginine, histidine, ornithine, and p-aminophenylalanine.
[0122] Basic amino acids are often isolated from natural sources in the form of salts and hydrosalts, which are also suitable for use. Such salts and hydrosalts are formed by the reaction of mineral acids such as hydrochloric acid, phosphoric acid, carbonic acid, sulfuric acid, and nitric acid, or organic acids such as formic acid, acetic acid, lauric acid, and chloroacetic acid. An example is arginine hydrochloride.
[0123] Other derivatives, such as N-substituted derivatives and peptide derivatives, can also be used. These two may be used as salts or hydrosalts. Examples of N-substituted derivatives are N-alkanoyl derivatives and N-alkyl derivatives. Typically, in N-alkanoyl derivatives, the alkanoyl group has an alkyl chain length of 3 to 20 carbon atoms, preferably 4 to 10 carbon atoms, such as N-butanoyl, N-hexanoyl, and N-octanoyl. In N-alkyl derivatives, the alkyl group typically has an alkyl chain length of 1 to 20 carbon atoms, preferably 1 to 4 carbon atoms, such as methyl, ethyl, and n-propyl. Examples of peptide derivatives are those in which the peptide residue contains 2 to 8 amino acid residues or substituted amino acid residues.
[0124] Any mixture of the above-mentioned materials can also be used in this hair treatment composition.
[0125] Preferred basic amino acids for use in this hair treatment composition include arginine (e.g., L-arginine), histidine (e.g., L-histidine), or combinations thereof.
[0126] The total amount of basic amino acids in a hair treatment composition can be 0.005 to 10%, for example 0.05 to 1%, or for example 0.1 to 0.4%, relative to the total mass of the composition, and includes all possible ranges and values.
[0127] Acidic amino acids This hair treatment composition may contain acidic amino acids. Acidic amino acids are those that have an acidic side chain, specifically those that contain a carboxylic acid group low enough that their pKa measurement loses a proton and becomes negatively charged. Acidic amino acids are also, by their properties, hydrophilic amino acids (meaning they prefer water, as opposed to hydrophobic amino acids) and polar amino acids (meaning they are positively charged, as opposed to nonpolar amino acids).
[0128] Acidic amino acids may include aspartic acid, glutamic acid (e.g., L-glutamic acid), or combinations thereof.
[0129] The total amount of acidic amino acids in this hair treatment composition can be 0.005 to 10% of the total mass of the composition, for example, 0.1 to 0.4%, or for example, 0.1 to 0.3%, and includes all possible ranges and values within that range.
[0130] Fatty amino acids This hair treatment composition may contain aliphatic amino acids.
[0131] The term "aliphatic amino acid" refers to an amino acid that has an aliphatic side chain.
[0132] A suitable example of an aliphatic amino acid for use is one having the general formula: CH(COOH)(NHR1)(R2) (wherein R1 is hydrogen or an alkyl group having an alkyl chain length of 1 to 20 carbon atoms, and R2 is hydrogen or an alkyl group having 1 to 4 carbon atoms).
[0133] In the preferred aliphatic amino acids for use, R1 is an alkyl group having 1 to 4 carbon atoms, and R2 is selected from H, -CH3, -CH(CH3)2, -CH2CH(CH3)2, and -CH(CH3)-CH2CH3.
[0134] Faliphatic amino acids may include alanine, isoleucine, leucine, methionine, valine, or combinations thereof.
[0135] Any mixture of the above-mentioned materials can also be used in this hair treatment composition.
[0136] The total amount of aliphatic amino acids in this hair treatment composition can be 0.005 to 10%, for example, 0.1 to 0.4%, relative to the total mass of the composition, and includes all possible ranges and values.
[0137] Aromatic amino acids This hair treatment composition may contain aromatic amino acids. Aromatic amino acids (AAA) are amino acids that contain an aromatic ring.
[0138] Aromatic amino acids may include phenylalanine, tryptophan, tyrosine, or combinations thereof.
[0139] The total amount of aromatic amino acids in this hair treatment composition can be 0.005 to 10% of the total mass of the composition, for example, 0.1 to 0.4%, and includes all possible ranges and values.
[0140] Neutral amino acids This hair treatment composition may contain neutral amino acids. Neutral amino acids contain an equal number of amino groups and carboxyl groups.
[0141] The neutral amino acids may include asparagine, cysteine, glutamine, glycine, serine, threonine, or combinations thereof. A preferred material may be N-methylglycine (also known as sarcosine).
[0142] The total amount of neutral amino acids in this hair treatment composition can be 0.005 to 10%, for example, 0.1 to 5%, for example, 0.1 to 2%, for example, 0.1 to 1%, for example, 0.1 to 0.5%, relative to the total mass of the composition, and includes all possible ranges and values within that range.
[0143] Fiber-activating substances Fiber-activating substances can be present in the hair treatment compositions disclosed herein. Fiber-activating substances can penetrate hair fibers and sterically block water adsorption sites. The ability to reduce water content can result in higher biomechanical properties, such as stronger hair. This mechanism is most effective at low pH for optimal penetration into hair fibers. Smaller molecules penetrate better. For example, carboxylic acid-citric acid can penetrate hair, bind to matrix proteins, thereby causing swelling, increasing smoother hair and reducing frizz. The same is true for gluconolactone, which is converted to gluconic acid. Fiber-activating substances can also penetrate hair fibers and influence changes such as modifying proteins or forming internal bonds, thereby increasing the stiffness of the fibers. Acids such as fiber-activating substances have an affinity for hair and can reduce water uptake by blocking sites where water would otherwise be adsorbed.
[0144] The fiber-active substance may include gluconic acid, citric acid, lactic acid, succinic acid, glycolic acid, adipic acid, or a combination thereof. Preferably, the gluconic acid contains sodium gluconate, and preferably the citric acid contains sodium citrate.
[0145] The fiber-active substance may be present in an amount of 0.01 to 5% by mass, for example, 0.05 to 4.0% by mass, for example, 0.1 to 2.5% by mass, for example, 0.1 to 2.0% by mass, relative to the total mass of the hair treatment composition, and includes all possible ranges and values contained therein.
[0146] Form of composition This hair treatment composition can take the form of a shampoo, conditioner (rinse-off, leave-in), mask, serum, or hair oil for use before or after washing. Typically, hair oils will mainly consist of non-water-soluble oily conditioning materials, such as triglycerides, mineral oil, and mixtures thereof.
[0147] This hair treatment composition can also take the form of a hair lotion, typically used between washes. The lotion is an aqueous emulsion containing a non-water-soluble oily conditioning material. Desired surfactants may also be included in the lotion to improve its stability against phase separation.
[0148] This hair treatment composition may take the form of a shampoo, rinse-off hair conditioner, hair mask, leave-in conditioner composition, and pre-treatment composition. This hair treatment composition may have a pH of 3 to 7, preferably 3 to 6, more preferably 3 to 5.
[0149] Hair treatment compositions, particularly aqueous shampoos and hair conditioners, may also contain one or more silicone conditioning agents.
[0150] Particularly preferred silicone conditioning agents are those formed from silicone emulsions, such as polydiorganosiloxanes, especially polydimethylsiloxanes with CTFA designation dimethicone, polydimethylsiloxanes having hydroxyl-terminated groups with CTFA designation dimethiconol, and amino-functional polydimethylsiloxanes with CTFA designation amodimethicone.
[0151] The emulsion droplets typically have a Sauter mean droplet diameter (D) of 0.01 to 20 micrometers (μm), more preferably 0.2 to 10 μm, in the composition. 3,2 ) may have.
[0152] Sauter average droplet diameter (D 3,2 A preferred method for measuring this is laser light scattering using equipment such as the Malvern Mastersizer.
[0153] Suitable silicone emulsions for use in the compositions disclosed herein are available from silicone suppliers such as Dow Corning and GE Silicones. The use of such pre-formed silicone emulsions is preferred for ease of processing and control of silicone particle size. Such pre-formed silicone emulsions typically further comprise suitable emulsifiers, such as anionic or nonionic emulsifiers, or mixtures thereof, and can be prepared by chemical emulsification processes such as emulsion polymerization, or by mechanical emulsification using a high-shear mixer. Sauter average droplet diameter (D 3,2 A pre-formed silicone emulsion with a diameter of less than 0.15 micrometers is generally called a microemulsion.
[0154] Examples of suitable pre-formed silicone emulsions include emulsions DC2-1766, DC2-1784, DC-1785, DC-1786, DC-1788, and microemulsions DC2-1865 and DC2-1870, all available from Dow Corning. These are all dimethiconol emulsions / microemulsions. Amodimethicone emulsions such as DC2-8177 and DC939 (Dow Corning) and SME253 (GE Silicones) are also suitable.
[0155] For example, a silicone emulsion in which a certain type of high molecular weight surfactant block copolymer is blended into silicone emulsion droplets, as described in International Application No. WO 2003 / 094874, is also suitable. In such a material, the silicone emulsion droplets are preferably formed from polydiorganosiloxanes such as those described above. One preferred form of the surfactant block copolymer is given by the following formula: HO(CH2CH2O) x (CH(CH3)CH2O) y (CH2CH2O) x H (In the equation, the average value of x is 4 or greater, and the average value of y is 25 or greater.) This is due to...
[0156] Another preferred form of the surfactant block copolymer is given by the following formula: (HO(CH2CH2O) a (CH(CH3)CH2O) b )2-N-CH2-CH2-N((OCH2CH(CH3)) b (OCH2CH2) a OH)2 (In the formula, the mean value of a is 2 or greater, and the mean value of b is 6 or greater.) This is due to...
[0157] Any of the above-mentioned mixtures of silicone emulsions can also be used.
[0158] The silicone emulsion described above will generally be present in the compositions disclosed herein at a level of 0.05 to 10%, for example, 0.05 to 5%, for example, 0.5 to 2%, relative to the total mass of the composition, and will include all possible ranges and values.
[0159] Other ingredients Hair treatment compositions may contain other ingredients to enhance performance and / or consumer acceptability. Such ingredients include fragrances, dyes and pigments, pH adjusters, pearlescent or opaque agents, viscosity modifiers, and preservatives or antimicrobial agents. Each of these ingredients will be present in an amount effective to achieve its purpose. Generally, these optional ingredients are included individually at levels up to a maximum of 5% by mass of the total composition.
[0160] Hair treatment compositions are intended for topical application to the hair and / or scalp of human subjects, primarily as rinse-off or leave-in compositions, for the treatment of dry, damaged, and / or unmanageable hair.
[0161] This hair treatment composition may further contain up to 30% by mass of skin beneficial agents. The term "skin beneficial agent" is defined as a substance that softens or improves the elasticity, appearance, and youthfulness of the skin (stratum corneum) by increasing its water content, adding or replacing lipids and other skin nutrients, or both, and by delaying the decrease in its water content, thereby keeping it supple. Preferred skin beneficial agents include emollients, such as hydrophobic emollients, hydrophilic emollients, or blends thereof. Preferred beneficial agents include humectants, emollients, sunscreens, and anti-aging compounds.
[0162] Preferably, optional skin beneficial agents used in the hair treatment compositions disclosed herein include niacinamide (vitamin B3), tocopherol (vitamin E), aloe vera, α-hydroxy acids and esters, β-hydroxy acids and esters, hydroxyethyl urea, polyhydroxy acids and esters, creatine, hydroquinone, t-butylhydroquinone, mulberry fruit, hyaluronic acid and its salts (including, but not limited to, Na+ and K+ salts of hyaluronic acid), extracts, licorice extract, resorcinol derivatives, or combinations thereof. For example, a skin beneficial agent may be sodium hyaluronate. Such beneficial agents may be present in amounts of 0.0001 to 10% by mass, for example, 0.001 to 6.5% by mass, for example, 0.01 to 3.5% by mass, and for example, 0.01% by mass, based on the total mass of the hair treatment composition, and include all values and ranges contained therein.
[0163] Further optional water-soluble skin-beneficial agents include acids, such as amino acids like arginine, valine, or histidine. Other vitamins, such as vitamin B2, picolinamide, panthenol (vitamin B5), vitamin B6, vitamin C, and combinations thereof, can be used. Derivatives (generally meaning those developed from or obtained from something else) and especially water-soluble derivatives of vitamins can also be used. For example, vitamin C derivatives, such as ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate, magnesium ascorbyl phosphate, and ascorbyl glycosides, may be used alone or in combination with each other. Niacinamide derivatives, such as nicotinamide adenine dinucleotide (NADH) and nicotinamide adenine dinucleotide phosphate (NADPH), may be used alone or in combination with each other. Other skin beneficial agents that can be used include 4-ethylresorcinol, extracts such as sage, aloe vera, green tea, sugarcane, citrus fruits, grape seed, thyme, chamomile, yarrow, cucumber, licorice, rosemary extract, or combinations thereof. Electrolytes, such as NaCl and / or KCl, and MgCl2, may also be used. When present in the compositions disclosed herein, the total amount of any selected water-soluble beneficial agents (including mixtures) can be 0.0001 to 10% by mass, preferably 0.001 to 6.5% by mass, and most preferably 0.01 to 3.5% by mass, relative to the total mass of the hair treatment composition, and includes all values and ranges contained therein.
[0164] The inclusion of optional oil-soluble beneficial agents is also within the scope of this hair treatment composition. Exemplary examples of types of oil-soluble beneficial agents that may be optionally used in the hair treatment compositions disclosed herein include components such as stearic acid, and vitamins such as vitamins A, D, E, and K (and their oil-soluble derivatives).
[0165] Other optional oil-soluble beneficial agents for use include resorcinols and resorcinol derivatives such as 4-hexylresorcinol, 4-phenylethylresorcinol, 4-cyclopentylresorcinol, 4-cyclohexylresorcinol, 4-isopropylresorcinol, or combinations thereof. 5-substituted resorcinols such as 4-cyclohexyl-5-methylbenzene-1,3-diol, 4-isopropyl-5-methylbenzene-1,3-diol, or combinations thereof may also be used. 5-substituted resorcinols and their synthesis are described in the commonly assigned U.S. Patent Application Publication No. 2016 / 0000669A1.
[0166] Further oil-soluble beneficial agents that can be used include solubilizers selected from ω-3 fatty acids, ω-6 fatty acids, crimbazole, magnolol, honokiol, farnesol, ursolic acid, myristic acid, geranylgeraniol, oleyl betaine, cocoyl hydroxyethyl imidazoline, hexanoyl sphingosine, 12-hydroxystearic acid (12HSA), petroceric acid, conjugated linoleic acid, stearic acid, palmitic acid, lauric acid, terpineol, thymol (essential component), limonene, pinene, camphene, cymene, citronellol, citronellal, geraniol, nerol, linalool, rodinol, borneol, isoborneol, menthone, camphor, safrole, isosafrole, eugenol, isoeugenol, tea tree oil, eucalyptus oil, peppermint oil, neem oil, lemongrass oil, orange oil, bergamot oil, or combinations thereof.
[0167] Another optional oil-soluble beneficial agent that can be used is a retinoic acid precursor. The retinoic acid precursor may be retinol, retinal, retinyl ester, retinyl propionate, retinyl palmitate, retinyl acetate, or a combination thereof. Retinyl propionate, retinyl palmitate, and combinations thereof are typically preferred. Yet another retinoic acid precursor for use is hydroxyanathatyl retinoate, commercially available under the name RETEXTRA®, supplied by Molecular Design International. Hydroxyanathatyl retinoate may be used in combination with any of the oil-soluble beneficial agents described herein.
[0168] When an optional (i.e., 0.0 to 1.5% by mass) oil-soluble beneficial agent is used in the hair treatment composition, it is typically present in an amount of 0.001 to 1.5% by mass of the overall hair treatment composition, encompassing all values and ranges, for example, 0.05 to 1.2% by mass of the total mass of the hair treatment composition, for example, 0.2 to 0.5% by mass.
[0169] Other useful skin-beneficial agents include: (a) Silicone oils and their modifications, e.g., linear and cyclic polydimethylsiloxanes; amino, alkyl, alkylaryl, and aryl silicone oils, (b) Natural oils and fats, such as jojoba oil, soybean oil, sunflower oil, rice bran oil, avocado oil, almond oil, olive oil, sesame oil, apricot kernel oil, castor oil, coconut oil, and mink oil; cocoa butter; beef tallow and lard; hydrogenated oils obtained by hydrogenating the above oils; and synthetic mono, di, and triglycerides, such as myristic acid glyceride and 2-ethylhexanoic acid glyceride. (c) Waxes, such as carnauba wax, whale wax, beeswax, lanolin, and their derivatives, (d) Hydrophobic and hydrophilic plant extracts, (e) hydrocarbons, such as liquid paraffin, petrolatum, microcrystalline wax, ceresin, squalene, pristane, and mineral oil. (f) Higher fatty acids, such as lauric acid, myristic acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid, behenic acid, oleic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid, lanolinic acid, isostearic acid, arachidonic acid, and polyunsaturated fatty acids (PUFAs), (g) Higher alcohols, such as lauryl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, cholesterol, and 2-hexyldecanol alcohol. (h) Esters, such as cetyl octanoate, myristyl lactate, cetyl lactate, isopropyl myristate, myristyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, isopropyl adipate, butyl stearate, decyl oleate, cholesterol isostearate, glycerol monostearate, glycerol monolaurate, glycerol distearate, glycerol tristearate, alkyl lactate, alkyl citrate, and alkyl tartrate, (i) Essential oils and their extracts, such as peppermint, jasmine, camphor, cypress, spruce, lilac, turpentine, cinnamon, bergamot, and Satsuma mandarin (Citrus) Unshiu), Calamus, Pine, Lavender, Bay Laurel, Clove, Hinoki Cypress, Eucalyptus, Lemon, Starflower, Thyme, Peppermint, Rose, Sage, Sesame, Ginger, Basil, Juniper, Lemongrass, Rosemary, Rosewood, Avocado, Grape, Grape Seed, Myrrh, Cucumber, Watercress, Calendula, Elderflower, Geranium, Linden Blossom, Amaranth, Seaweed, Ginkgo, Korean Ginseng, Carrot, Guarana, Tea Tree, Jojoba, Comfrey, Oatmeal, Cocoa, Neroli, Vanilla, Green Tea, Mint, Aloe Vera, Menthol, Cineole, Eugenol, Citral, Citronellol, Borneol, Linalool, Geraniol, Evening Primrose, Camphor, Thymol, Spiranthol, Penene, Limonene, and Terpenoid Oils, (j) Polyhydric alcohols, such as glycerin, sorbitol, propylene glycol, etc.; and polyols, such as polyethylene glycol, for example Polyox WSR-205 PEG 14M, Polyox WSR-N-60K PEG 45M, or Polyox WSR-N-750, and PEG 7M. (k) Lipids, such as cholesterol, ceramides, sucrose esters, and pseudoceramides as described in European Patent Specification No. 556,957. (l) Vitamins, minerals, and skin nutrients, e.g., milk, vitamins A, E, and K; vitamin alkyl esters including vitamin C alkyl ester; magnesium, calcium, copper, zinc, and other metallic components. (m) Sunscreens, such as octyl methoxyl cinnamate (Parsol MCX) and butyl methoxybenzoylmethane (Parsol 1789), (n) phospholipids, and (o) Anti-aging compounds, such as α-hydroxy acids and β-hydroxy acids.
[0170] Preferred skin beneficial agents include fatty acids, hydrocarbons, polyhydric alcohols, polyols, and mixtures thereof, and at least one C 12 ~C 18 Skin emollients comprising fatty acids, petrolatum, glycerol, sorbitol, and / or propylene glycol are of particular interest in one or more embodiments. These agents can be added at appropriate steps in the method for producing the hair treatment composition. Some beneficial agents may be introduced as macrodomains.
[0171] Other optional ingredients such as antioxidants, perfumes, polymers, chelating agents, dyes, deodorants, enzymes, foaming agents, disinfectants, antibacterial agents, lathering agents, pearlescent agents, skin conditioners, stabilizers, or superfatting agents may be added in appropriate amounts in the method for manufacturing the bars. Preferably, the ingredients are added after the saponification step. Sodium metabisulfite, ethylenediaminetetraacetic acid (EDTA), borax, or ethylene hydroxydiphosphonic acid (EHDP) may be added to the formulation.
[0172] Further optional components that may be present in this hair treatment composition include, for example, fragrances; metal ion sequestering agents and chelating agents, such as tetrasodium ethylenediaminetetraacetate (EDTA), ethane hydroxyl diphosphonate (EHDP), and etidronic acid, also known as 1-hydroxyethylidene diphosphonic acid (HEDP); colorants; opacifiers, and pearlizers, such as zinc stearate, magnesium stearate, TiO2, ethylene glycol monostearate (EGMS), ethylene glycol distearate (EGDS), or Lytron 621 (styrene / acrylate copolymer); pH adjusters; antioxidants, such as butylated hydroxytoluene (BHT); stabilizers; foam enhancers, such as coconut acyl mono- or diethanolamide; ionized salts, such as sodium chloride and sodium sulfate, and other components, such as those conventionally used in hair treatment compositions. The total amount of such further optional components is typically 0–10% by mass, more specifically 0.1–5% by mass, relative to the total mass of the personal cleansing preparation.
[0173] Preservatives may be used in the hair treatment compositions disclosed herein. Exemplary preservatives for use include sodium benzoate, iodopropynyl butylcarbamate, phenoxyethanol, hydroxyacetophenone, ethylhexylglycerin, methylparaben, propylparaben, imidazolidinyl urea, sodium dehydroacetate, dimethyl-dimethyl (DMDM) hydantoin, and benzyl alcohol, or combinations thereof. Other suitable preservatives for use include sodium dehydroacetate, chlorphenesin, and decylene glycol. Preservatives are preferably used in amounts of 0.01% to 2.0% by mass of the total mass of the hair treatment composition, encompassing all values and ranges contained therein. Preservative systems containing hydroxyacetophenone alone or in mixtures with other preservatives are also preferred.
[0174] Fragrances, fixatives, opacifiers (such as titanium dioxide or glycol distearate), and chelating agents may be optionally included in the hair treatment composition. Possible chelating agents include, but are not limited to, ethylenediaminetetraacetic acid (EDTA), diethylenetriaminepentaacetic acid (DTPA), ethylenediamine disuccinic acid (EDDS), pentasodium diethylenetriaminepentaacetic acid, trisodium N-(hydroxyethyl)-ethylenediaminetriacetate, acidic forms of EDTA, sodium thiocyanate, trisodium methylglycine diacetate, tetrasodium glutamate diacetate, and phytic acid. Preferably, the chelating agent is ethylenediaminetetraacetic acid (EDTA), diethylenetriaminepentaacetic acid (DTPA), ethylenediamine disuccinic acid (EDDS), or a combination thereof. Each of these substances may be present in an amount of about 0.03 to about 3% by mass, preferably about 0.1 to about 2.6% by mass, of the overall hair treatment composition, and all possible values and ranges are included.
[0175] This hair treatment composition may contain a polymer electrolyte complex. The polymer electrolyte complex may contain polyquaternium and methacrylate copolymer.
[0176] The hair treatment compositions disclosed herein may be free from or substantially free from sulfates, parabens, phthalates, and / or petrolatum.
[0177] A method for treating hair using the disclosed hair treatment composition is envisioned. The method for treating hair may include the step of applying the hair treatment composition disclosed herein in the form of a shampoo to the hair. The hair may be straight, wavy, curly, or tightly curled / coiled. The hair may be virgin hair or damaged hair. The damage may be any of the damage types disclosed herein, including bleaching. The shampoo can be rinsed off the hair after a time of less than 5 minutes, and then the hair treatment composition disclosed herein in the form of a conditioner can be applied to the same hair. The conditioner can be rinsed off the hair after a time of less than 5 minutes. The leave-in conditioner disclosed herein can be applied to the same hair and rinsed off after a time of 1 hour or less. The hair can then be dried at 60% relative humidity for at least 8 hours (e.g., air drying, blow-drying, etc.). The above method can be repeated up to 20 times on the same hair.
[0178] Alternatively, any shampoo and conditioner may be used before applying any of the hair treatment compositions disclosed herein to straight, wavy, curly, or tightly curled / coiled hair.
[0179] Alternatively, a method for treating hair may include the step of applying a hair treatment composition disclosed herein in the form of a shampoo to the hair. The hair may be straight, wavy, curly, or tightly curled / coiled. The hair may be virgin hair or damaged hair. The damage may be any of the damage types disclosed herein, including bleaching. The shampoo can be rinsed off the hair after a time of less than 5 minutes, and then a hair treatment composition disclosed herein in the form of a conditioner can be applied to the same hair. The conditioner can be rinsed off the hair after a time of less than 5 minutes. A leave-in conditioner disclosed herein can be applied to the same hair. The hair can then be dried at 60% relative humidity for at least 8 hours (e.g., air-dried, dry-dried, etc.). The above method can be repeated up to 20 times on the same hair.
[0180] Alternatively, any shampoo and conditioner may be used before applying any of the hair treatment compositions disclosed herein to straight, wavy, curly, or tightly curled / coiled hair.
[0181] The technical properties of hair change dramatically depending on its water content. This is because water solvates hydrogen bonds and salt bridges that support secondary strength within the hair, thereby reducing its mechanical properties and expanding its fiber dimensions. In hair, water acts as a plasticizer for the protein structure, reducing its resistance to breakage. Adsorption of water to hair proteins causes hydrogen bond breakage. Since styling is a result of building / repairing hydrogen bonds, when hydrogen bonds are broken, the biomechanical properties of the hair and its ability to style are impaired.
[0182] In each method, it was unexpectedly discovered that hydrogen bonds are restructured in the hair after completion of the method, that hydrogen bonds are restored in the hair after completion of the method, or that hydrogen bonds are restructured and restored in the hair after completion of any of the methods disclosed herein.
[0183] The hair treatment compositions disclosed herein can provide damage repair benefits to chemically or mechanically damaged hair. Hair can be of any type.
[0184] For example, gluconolactone (which is converted to gluconic acid) and carboxylic acids (e.g., citric acid) penetrate hair fibers and block water adsorption by steric means. Water is a plasticizer of hair, and therefore, the ability to reduce water content should result in higher biomechanical properties. Acids have an affinity for hair and reduce water uptake by binding to the blocking sites where water would otherwise be adsorbed (water breaks hydrogen bonds).
[0185] By incorporating amino acids into this hair treatment composition, it is possible to help reconstruct peptide bonds that support protein structures. The basic side groups of arginine, histidine, and lysine, and the acidic side groups of aspartic acid and glutamic acid, can help build tertiary and quaternary protein structures.
[0186] The use of this hair treatment composition can result in long-lasting damage repair, such as an increase in the protein denaturation temperature, or, for example, the repair or replacement of hydrogen bonds. Long-lasting means that the benefits last for multiple treatments, preferably 2 to 5 treatments, compared to hair compositions that do not contain the amino acid mixture disclosed herein.
[0187] This hair treatment composition can be applied to the hair at least once. This hair treatment composition can be applied to the hair 1 to 5 times, for example, 1 to 10 times, for example, 1 to 20 times, for example, 1 to 25 times.
[0188] After using the hair treatment composition disclosed herein once, it was unexpectedly found that the hair had 75% or more less breakage compared to a non-conditioning shampoo, preferably 85% or more less breakage compared to hair not treated with the hair treatment composition disclosed herein (using any of the methods disclosed herein), and more preferably 95% or more less breakage.
[0189] After using the hair treatment compositions disclosed herein, an increase in the denaturation temperature of the internal proteins of the hair was observed.
[0190] This hair treatment composition increases hair moisture by 50% or more, preferably 60% or more, and more preferably 50% to 90% or more, compared to a non-conditioning shampoo used on the same hair.
[0191] This hair treatment composition provides hair curl control for 6 hours or more, preferably 12 hours or more, and more preferably 24 hours or more.
[0192] Unless otherwise expressly indicated, all figures in this specification indicating the quantity of materials, reaction conditions, physical properties of materials, and / or use should be understood to be modified by the word “approximately.” All quantities, unless otherwise specified, refer to the mass of the final composition.
[0193] When specifying any range of concentration or quantity, it should be noted that any particular upper concentration may be associated with any particular lower concentration or quantity, and any sub-range contained therein. In this regard, it should be noted that all ranges disclosed herein encompass endpoints, and endpoints are independently combinable with one another (for example, "the range of up to 25% by mass, more specifically 5% to 20% by mass, encompasses the endpoints and all intermediate values of the range of 5% to 25% by mass," etc.). "Combinations" include blends, mixtures, alloys, reaction products, etc. Furthermore, in this specification, terms such as "first," "second," etc., do not represent any order, quantity, or importance, but rather are used to distinguish one element from another. In this specification, the terms "a," "an," and "the" do not represent limits on quantity and are interpreted as encompassing both singular and plural forms unless otherwise indicated herein or unless the context clearly contradicts them. The suffix "(s)" used herein includes both the singular and plural forms of the term it modifies, thereby intending to include one or more of that term (for example, film(s) includes one or more films). Throughout this specification, references such as "one embodiment," "one aspect," "another embodiment," "another aspect," "embodiment," and "aspect" mean that certain elements (e.g., features, structures, and / or characteristics) described in relation to an embodiment or aspect are included in at least one embodiment or aspect described herein, and may or may not be present in other embodiments or aspects. Furthermore, it should be understood that the elements described may be combined in any suitable manner in various embodiments or aspects.
[0194] All cited patents, patent applications, and other references are incorporated herein by reference in their entirety. However, if any terminology in this application conflicts with or is inconsistent with any terminology in any of the incorporated references, the terminology in this application shall prevail over the conflicting terminology in the incorporated references. While certain embodiments have been described, the applicant or a person skilled in the art may conceive of alternatives, modifications, variations, improvements, and substantial equivalents that are not currently foreseeable or may not be foreseeable. Accordingly, the appended claims, which may be filed and amended, are intended to include all such alternatives, modifications, variations, improvements, and substantial equivalents.
[0195] To avoid ambiguity, the word "comprising" is intended to mean "including," but not necessarily "consisting of" or "composed of." In other words, the listed processes, options, or alternatives do not need to be exhaustive.
[0196] The disclosures of the invention as found herein should be considered to encompass all aspects found in the claims as being complexly dependent on one another, regardless of the fact that the claims may be found without multiple dependencies or redundancies. Unless otherwise specified, numerical ranges expressed in the form "x~y" are understood to include x and y. When specifying any range of values or quantities, any particular upper value or quantity may be associated with any particular lower value or quantity. All percentages and ratios contained herein are calculated in terms of mass unless otherwise indicated. The various features of the invention mentioned in the individual sections above may be applied to other sections with the necessary modifications as needed. As a result, features specified in one section may be combined with features specified in other sections as needed. Any section headings are provided for convenience only and are not intended to limit this disclosure in any way. [Examples]
[0197] The following examples are merely illustrative of the hair treatment compositions disclosed herein and are not intended to limit the scope of this specification.
[0198] (Example 1) In this example, the effect of a particular hair treatment on the hydrogen bond network on or within the hair fiber was investigated by attenuated total reflection (ATR) spectroscopy and / or ATR-Fourier transform infrared (ATR-FTIR) spectroscopy.
[0199] ATR-FTIR data were recorded using a PerkinElmer spotlight system 400 and an ATR accessory. Spectra were recorded using the following spectral parameters: Spectral resolution 8 inverse centimeters (cm -1 ) 256 scan accumulations Range 4000 - 650 cm -1 .
[0200] For each bundle of hair examined, 12 scans were performed along the length of the bundle (4 times near the root, 4 times in the middle, and 4 times near the tip).
[0201] The control sample was untreated, decolorized hair of mixed ethnicity.
[0202] The sample analyzed was a bundle treated with the hair treatment composition disclosed herein.
[0203] The spectra collected for the bundles of hair were averaged and analyzed for peak position and second derivative spectra using Thermo Scientific GRAMS spectroscopic analysis software.
[0204] Hyperspectral images were recorded using the following spectral parameters: For the control and treated samples, approximately 10 cross-sections of 6 - 8 micrometers (μm) were obtained by cryostat. ATF-FTIR imaging parameters The spatial resolution was 6.25 μm The spectral resolution was 8 cm -1 was 64-scan accumulation
[0205] Hair treatment protocol For each treatment group, a bundle of mixed-race hair supplied by International Hair Importers was used. Each bundle was 8 inches long, 1 inch wide, and had a mass of approximately 3 grams (g). 1. Decolorize all 4 bundles, standardize with 0.15 milliliters (ml) of non-conditioning shampoo, massage, and rinse with intellifaucet water for 30 seconds each. 2. Save 50 fibers from each bundle as a control for cross-sectioning. 3. Apply to wet hair a shampoo with the formulation shown in Table 1 (Table 1) at 10% weight / volume (w / v) with respect to the hair, lather on the hair bundle for 30 seconds, and then rinse with intellifaucet water for 30 seconds each. 4. Apply to wet hair a conditioner with the formulation shown in Table 2 (Table 2) at 15% w / v, comb it into the hair 10 times with a comb, leave it on the hair for 3 minutes, and then rinse with intellifaucet water for 30 seconds each. 5. Leave-in application: Hair regimen 1: Apply a leave-in conditioner with the composition shown in Table 3 (Table 3) at 5.0% w / v to wet hair on 2 hair bundles. Comb the formulation into the hair 10 times, dry it on the hair for 1 hour, and then rinse with 0.15 ml of non-conditioning shampoo. Hair regimen 2: A 5.0% w / v leave-in conditioner with the composition shown in Table 4 was applied to two strands of damp hair. The preparation was combed through the hair 10 times, dried on the hair for 1 hour, and then rinsed with 0.15 ml of unconditioning shampoo. 6. After the 1x treatment, the hair was dried overnight at 60% relative humidity. 7. Fifty fibers from each bundle were preserved as 1x cross-sectionally treated hairs. 8. Steps 1-5 were repeated four times, for a total of five cycles. Between cycles 2-4, the hair bundles were dried with a hairdryer on a low setting for 10 minutes to ensure they were completely dry. 9. After 5 (5x) treatments, the hair was dried overnight at 60% relative humidity. 10. Fifty fibers were maintained for cross-sectional analysis.
[0206] The hair samples tested were: 1. Control - Untreated hair (bleached hair type 3) 2. Hair treated with hair regimen 1 (bleached hair type 3), 3. Hair treated with hair regimen 1 for 5x (bleached hair type 3), 4. Hair treated with hair regimen 2 (bleached hair type 3), 5. Hair treated with Hair Regimen 2 (5x treatment) (bleached hair type 3) That was the case.
[0207] [Table 1]
[0208] [Table 2]
[0209] [Table 3]
[0210]
Table 4
[0211] ATR-FTIR Analysis - Hair Surface Analysis Hair Regimen 1 Table 5 shows the band positions from measurements carried out on control, 1×, and 5× treated samples of Hair Regimen 1 for average surface ATR scans. (The surface ATR scans mainly characterized the cuticle). The bands used to characterize both the contribution of hydrogen bonding and the change in protein conformation mainly originated from the amide A band (about 3726 cm -1 ) from N-H2 stretching, which showed a band shift resulting from hydrogen bonding independent of protein conformation, amide I, and amide II. Both amide I and amide II were useful for diagnosing both the conformation of the protein backbone and hydrogen bonding, as well as environmental contributions. Since the contribution of the amide I band (about 1640 cm -1 ) was mainly due to C=O stretching of the protein backbone and the contribution of the amide II band (about 1530 cm-1) was mainly due to C-N stretching, these bands showed different sensitivities to hydrogen bonding and the protein environment.
[0212]
Table 5
[0213] As can be seen from Table 5, there was an amide A shift of approximately 0.5 cm -1 on the surface treated from control to 5× (3380.9 cm-1 → 3380.4 cm-1).
[0214] There was no significant shift in the amide I region between the control and the 1× treated hair surface. The amide I region of these spectra was consistent with the results from amide A, which showed no band shift in that region for the hair treated 1× from the control. However, the 5× treated sample showed an amide I shift of 2.5 cm -1 from the control, which was in the same direction as the result of amide A.
[0215] The breakdown of the conformational components, primarily (but not exclusively) from the α-helix and β-sheet (with some disordered contributions) from the protein backbone peptide bonds, into the amide I and amide II bands is also shown in Table 5. There were some differences between the second derivative spectra of control and treated hair. The second derivative spectra of control and 1× treated regimen 1 overlap well and show no significant differences. Compared to control and 1× treatment, the α-helix intensity of the 5× regimen treated surface was weakened and shifted to lower wavenumbers. (Note that the β-sheet shifted slightly to higher wavenumbers). In amide II, both the α-helix and β-sheet shifted to higher wavenumbers in the 5× treatment.
[0216] From Table 5: Regimen 1, treated with 1×, showed almost no band shift from the control. Regimen 1, treated with 5×, shows a shift to lower wavenumbers for amide A and amide I compared to the control. The second derivative spectrum is consistent with the first-order spectral result, but the intensity of the α-helix is slightly reduced in hair regimen 1 treated with 5×.
[0217] Hair Regimen 2 Hair regimen 2 surface scans were subjected to the same analysis as hair regimen 1 surface scans. The results are shown in Table 6.
[0218] [Table 6]
[0219] As seen in Table 6, the amide A (N-H2) stretching region from hair regimen 2 treatment showed different behavior from hair regimen 1. The amide A peak did not appear to be particularly affected by the use of regimen 2 in terms of peak shift.
[0220] In hair regimen 2, both the 1× and 5× treatments showed a similar amide I-band shift compared to the control. However, the shift was approximately 2–2.5 cm to lower wavenumbers, as was the case with regimen 1. -1 Therefore, the shift behavior may demonstrate that there is not a direct correlation between the environments of amide A and amide I.
[0221] As indicated by the amide I peak shift, both 1× and 5× treatments with regimen 2 appeared to have roughly equivalent effects. Both treatments showed a reduction in α-helix to β-sheets in both the amide I and amide II bands. Regimen 2 significantly affects the α-helix.
[0222] From Table 6: In hair regimen 2, both 1× and 5× treatments of hair fibers showed similar results. The hair regimen 2 treatment appeared to slightly shift amide A to a lower wavenumber. Hair regimen 2 treatment involved shifting the amide I band to a lower wavenumber after 1x and 5x applications.
[0223] ATR-FTIR imaging spectroscopy - hair cross-section analysis The same treatment was applied to cross-sectional hair fibers.
[0224] Table 7 lists the average data from hair cross-sectional images for hair regimen 1.
[0225] [Table 7]
[0226] As the number of treatments increased from 1× to 5×, an overall decrease in wavenumber was observed for the amide A band, indicating an increase in hydrogen bonding by hair regimen 1. Further increases in the number of treatments were observed, with the decrease in wavenumber progressing from the outer to the inner side of the cross-section. In the amide I band, 1× treatment with hair regimen 1 slightly decreased its number compared to the control, while 5× treatment with hair regimen 1 increased the wavenumber shift in this band compared to both 1× and the control. In 1× hair regimen 1 fibers, 1656 cm⁻¹ -1 / 1624cm -1 There was no clear difference in the ratio, but there was a significant increase in the ratio with the 5x treatment. There was also a decrease in β-sheets to α-helix from the control to the 1x and 5x treatments.
[0227] Table 8 lists the average data from hair cross-sectional images for hair regimen 2.
[0228] [Table 8]
[0229] In both 1× and 5× treatments of hair regimen 2, a decrease in wavenumber was observed for the amide A band, indicating an increase in hydrogen bonding by hair regimen 2. The lowest wavenumbers were typically found around the cuticle region and progressed inward with increasing treatment levels. As observed in hair regimen 1, the amide I band also had a higher average wavenumber in hair regimen 2, particularly at the 5× treatment level. 1656 cm² showing α-helix / β-sheet -1 / 1624cm -1 An increase was observed in the 5× treatment. This observation was similar to that observed with hair regimen 1. There was a slight decrease in β-sheet / α-helix in both the 1× and 5× uses of hair regimen 2.
[0230] Based on the results in Table 7 and Table 8, the strongest hydrogen bond formation was observed with hair regimen 2. The effect of either hair regimen 1 or hair regimen 2 was already significant after 1× application.
[0231] Both surface scanning and ATR-FTIR imaging allowed for visualization and estimation of the effects of leave-in formulations on both H-bonding and structural conformation. Both surface scanning and cross-sectional visualization revealed a shift to lower wavenumbers observed in amide A, clearly indicating the formation of hydrogen bond networks associated with hair regimens 1 and 2. In hair regimen 2, the highest hydrogen bond formation was observed after 5× treatment. Both the amide I and amide II bands demonstrated the differences in conformation and / or environment in the fibers resulting from the treatment of regimens 1 and 2.
[0232] (Example 2) In this embodiment, three sets of Type 1 hair were bleached twice, the control sample (ConS) was left untreated, the comparative samples (CompS1 and CompS2) were subjected to a two-step shampoo and conditioner system, and the sample relating to the invention (IS) was subjected to a three-step shampoo, conditioner, and leave-in conditioner system using the formulations disclosed herein and shown in Tales 9 (Table 9), 10 (Table 10), and 11 (Table 11).
[0233] [Table 9]
[0234] [Table 10]
[0235] [Table 11]
[0236] Breaked hair Hair bundles reflecting two years of chemical damage were commercially obtained from International Hair Importers. The ConS sample was washed with a non-conditioning shampoo. CompS1 and CompS2 samples were washed with different commercially available shampoos and conditioners. The IS samples were subjected to the shampoos and conditioners disclosed in Tables 9 and 10.
[0237] Next, each sample was combed 1,000 times from a wet state to a dry state, and the total amount of hair breakage was measured (as a function of the number of comb strokes on the sample). The results for shampoo and conditioner are shown in Table 12.
[0238] [Table 12]
[0239] As can be seen from Table 12, the sample relating to the invention showed a significant reduction in the number of broken hairs compared to ConS, CompS1, and CompS2, demonstrating that even using only the shampoo and conditioner disclosed herein provides excellent protection for damaged hair.
[0240] In Table 13, samples were subjected to shampoo and conditioner, and then the leave-in conditioner shown in Table 11 was applied to the hair without rinsing. It should be noted that in the three systems, the shampoo and conditioner used can be any shampoo and conditioner and do not need to be those disclosed in Tables 9 and 10.
[0241] [Table 13]
[0242] As can be seen from Table 13, in the three systems, there was even less cleavage compared to the control sample, with a 96% reduction in cleavage.
[0243] Denaturation temperature Hair treatment Hair samples C1, C1, and C2, which had been bleached twice, were treated twice. First, they were treated with an aqueous composition containing 14% sodium laureth ether sulfate (SLES), 0.1 ml / 1 g of hair, lathered for 30 seconds, and then rinsed with tap water for 30 seconds. Virgin hair was also tested.
[0244] Next, sample 1 was treated with the compositions in Table 9 and Table 10 using the following method: Apply 0.1 ml / 1 g of hair, lather for 30 seconds, then rinse with tap water for 30 seconds.
[0245] Next, sample 2 was treated with the compositions shown in Table 11 as follows: Apply 0.2 ml / 1 g of hair for 60 seconds, then rinse with tap water for 60 seconds.
[0246] Next, the hair strands were dried overnight at 20°C and 60% relative humidity.
[0247] Treatment effect The effect of the treatment was measured using differential scanning calorimetry (DSC).
[0248] [Table 14]
[0249] As can be seen from Table 14, Sample 1 (shampoo and conditioner only) showed an increased temperature at which keratin proteins denatured compared to C1 treated with non-conditioning shampoo alone, demonstrating that continued use of the formulation had a positive effect on protein structure and integrity. Sample 2 (leave-in conditioner only) also showed an increased temperature at which keratin proteins denatured compared to non-conditioning shampoo. Leave-in also had a positive effect on protein structure and integrity.
[0250] As shown in Table 15, similar results were observed when the washing process was repeated 5 times (5x) and 10 times (10x).
[0251] As can be seen from Table 15, Sample 1 (shampoo and conditioner only) showed an increase in the temperature at which keratin proteins denatured compared to C1 treated with non-conditioning shampoo alone, demonstrating that continued use of the formulation has a positive effect on protein structure and integrity. Sample 2 (leave-in conditioner only) also showed an increase in the temperature at which keratin proteins denatured compared to non-conditioning shampoo. The leave-in conditioner also had a positive effect on protein structure and integrity.
[0252] [Table 15]
[0253] ATR-FTIR imaging spectroscopy In this embodiment, the effects of specific hair treatments on the hydrogen bond network on or within hair fibers were investigated by attenuated total internal reflection (ATR) spectroscopy and / or ATR-Fourier transform infrared (ATR-FTIR) spectroscopy.
[0254] ATR-FTIR data was recorded using PerkinElmer's Spotlight System 400 and ATR accessories. The spectrum was recorded using the following spectral parameters: Spectral resolution 8 inverse centimeters (cm) -1 ) 256 scans cumulative Range 4000~650cm -1 .
[0255] For each strand of hair examined: The bundle was scanned 12 times along its length (4 times near the base, 4 times in the middle, and 4 times near the tip).
[0256] The control sample consisted of untreated, bleached hair from mixed racial groups.
[0257] The sample analysis was performed on bundles treated with the hair treatment compositions disclosed herein.
[0258] Spectra collected from hair bundles were averaged, and the peak positions and second derivative spectra were analyzed using Thermo Scientific's GRAMS spectroscopy software.
[0259] Hyperspectral images were recorded using the following spectral parameters.
[0260] Approximately 10 cross-sections of 6–8 micrometers (μm) were obtained from the control and treated samples using a cryostat. ATF-FTIR imaging parameters The spatial resolution was 6.25 μm. The spectral resolution is 8 cm. -1 was 64 scans cumulative
[0261] Hair treatment protocol Each treatment group used bundles of medium-brown bleached hair supplied by International Hair Importers and prepared by TRI. Each bundle measured 8 inches long, 1 inch wide, and weighed approximately 3 g.
[0262] 1. Bleached all four strands, standardized them with 0.15 ml of non-conditioning shampoo, massaged them in, and rinsed each with Intellifaucet water for 30 seconds. 2. Fifty fibers were selected from each bundle and saved as a control for cross-sectional analysis. 3. Shampoo and Conditioner: Apply 10% w / v Scarlet shampoo to damp hair, lathering it into strands for 30 seconds, then rinse with Intellifaucet water for 30 seconds each. Apply 15% w / v Scarlet conditioner to damp hair, combing it through 10 times, leaving it on for 3 minutes, then rinse with Intellifaucet water for 30 seconds each. Leave-in: 5.0% w / v Scarlet Leave-in #1 was applied to damp hair in strands. The formulation was combed through the hair 10 times, allowed to dry for 1 hour, and then rinsed with 0.15 ml of non-conditioning shampoo. 4. After the 5x treatment, the hair was dried overnight at 60% relative humidity. 5. Steps 1-3 were repeated four times, for a total of five cycles. Between cycles 2-4, the hair bundles were dried with a hairdryer on a low temperature for 10 minutes to ensure they were completely dry. 6. After the 5x treatment, the hair was dried overnight at 60% relative humidity. 7. Maintain 50 fibers for cross-sectional preparation.
[0263] System 1: Shampoo + Conditioner (disclosed in Table 9 and Table 10) System 2: Leave-in Conditioner c
[0264] The test was conducted after 5x application.
[0265] The hair samples tested were: 1. Control - Untreated hair (bleached medium brown hair) 2. Hair treated 5× with shampoo and conditioner (disclosed in Table 9 and Table 10) (bleached medium brown hair), 3. The hair was treated with a 5x leave-in method (disclosed in Table 9 and Table 10) (bleached medium brown hair).
[0266] ATR-FTIR analysis-hair surface analysis Table 16 shows the band positions from measurements performed on the control, shampoo and conditioner (SH+CD), and leave-in conditioner for mean surface ATR scanning. (Surface ATR scanning primarily characterized the cuticle). The bands used to characterize both hydrogen bonding contributions and changes in protein conformation were mainly the amide A band (approximately 3726 cm²) resulting from N-H2 stretching. -1 This showed a band shift resulting from hydrogen bonding, independent of protein conformation, amide I, and amide II. Both amide I and amide II were useful in diagnosing both protein backbone conformation and hydrogen bonding, as well as environmental contributions. Amide I band (approximately 1640 cm⁻¹) -1 The contribution of the ) band is mainly due to C=O stretching of the protein backbone, while the contribution of the amide II band (approximately 1530 cm-1) is mainly due to CN stretching; therefore, these bands showed different sensitivities to hydrogen bonding and the protein environment. The CH stretching region of the IR spectrum, which is useful for determining whether the product remains after washing, is also shown.
[0267] [Table 16]
[0268] On both the SH+CD (System 1) treated surface and the leave-in (System 2) treated surface, the amide A shift from the control surface was equivalent in wavenumber for control, SH+CD, and leave-in. While we do not wish to be bound by theory, the equivalent number was thought to be simply due to the residue left on the cuticle by the two treatments. Therefore, if there were no residue, lower wavenumbers would have been observed in Systems 1 and 2.
[0269] In the symmetric second derivative from system 1 to system 2, there was a slight shift to lower wavenumbers.
[0270] From Table 16: No significant changes in hydrogen bonding were observed in either treatment (System 1 and System 2). Regarding the treatment, in amide I, there is a slight shift to a lower wavenumber compared to the control (total 0.2 cm⁻¹). From the second derivative spectrum, the alpha-helix is slightly shifted to a lower wavenumber than the control. The amide II second derivative shift does not show any particular trend. Significant accumulation was observed with these hair treatments, particularly leave-in treatments, which can significantly affect spectroscopic analysis (surface analysis).
[0271] ATR-FTIR imaging spectroscopy - hair cross-section analysis The same treatment is applied to cross-sectional fibers.
[0272] System 1: SH+CD A general decrease in wavenumber was observed for the amide A band, which indicated an increase in hydrogen bonding due to system 1 (e.g., 3305 cm⁻¹). -1 From 3290cm -1 fart).
[0273] System 2: Leave-in conditioner A general decrease in wavenumber was observed for the amide A band, which indicated an increase in hydrogen bonding due to system 2 (e.g., 3310 cm⁻¹). -1 From 3280cm-1 fart).
[0274] In both System 1 and System 2, visualization of the transverse hyperspectral images showed a shift to lower wavenumbers for the amide A band. This shift indicated the formation of a hydrogen bond network. The amide I band showed a slight increase in wavenumber, and the amide II band showed a slight decrease in wavenumber in both System 1 and System 2, specifically at 1548 / 1512 cm⁻¹. -1 This shows a change in the ratio, which indicates structural changes within human hair fibers associated with these hair treatments.
Claims
1. A hair treatment composition, A surfactant including anionic surfactants, amphoteric surfactants, nonionic surfactants, zwitterionic surfactants, cationic surfactants, or combinations thereof, An amino acid that is a basic amino acid, an acidic amino acid, an aliphatic amino acid, an aromatic amino acid, a neutral amino acid, or a combination thereof, wherein the basic amino acid is selected from arginine, histidine, lysine, or a combination thereof; the acidic amino acid is selected from aspartic acid, glutamic acid, or a combination thereof; the aliphatic amino acid is selected from alanine, isoleucine, leucine, methionine, valine, or a combination thereof; the aromatic amino acid is selected from phenylalanine, tryptophan, tyrosine, or a combination thereof; and the neutral amino acid is selected from asparagine, cysteine, glutamine, glycine, serine, threonine, or a combination thereof. A fiber-activating substance selected from gluconic acid, citric acid, lactic acid, succinic acid, glycolic acid, adipic acid, or a combination thereof, preferably gluconic acid containing sodium gluconate, and preferably citric acid containing sodium citrate. A hair treatment composition containing the following.
2. The hair treatment composition according to claim 1, wherein the surfactant comprises an anionic surfactant selected from sodium lauroyl glycinate, sodium cocoyl glycinate, sodium lauroyl glutamate, sodium cocoyl glutamate, sodium lauroyl isethionate, sodium cocoyl isethionate, sodium lauroyl methyl taurate, sodium cocoyl methyl taurate, sodium alpha oleinsulfonate, or a combination thereof.
3. The cationic surfactant comprises a quaternary ammonium, an amine salt, or a combination thereof, and preferably the cationic surfactant is cetyltrimethylammonium chloride, behenyltrimethylammonium chloride, cetylpyridinium chloride, tetramethylammonium chloride, tetraethylammonium chloride, octyltrimethylammonium chloride, dodecyltrimethylammonium chloride, hexadecyltrimethylammonium chloride, octyldimethylbenzylammonium chloride, decyldimethylbenzylammonium chloride, stearyldimethylbenzylammonium chloride, didodecyldimethylammonium chloride, dioctadecyldimethylammonium chloride, talotrimethylammonium chloride, dihydrogenated talodimethylammonium chloride, cocotrimethylammonium chloride A hair treatment composition according to claim 1 or 2, selected from ammonium chloride, PEG-2-oleammonium chloride, and their corresponding hydroxides, stearamidopropyl dimethylamine, stearamidopropyl diethylamine, stearamidoethyldiethylamine, stearamidoethyldimethylamine, palmitamidopropyl dimethylamine, palmitamidopropyl diethylamine, palmitamidoethyldiethylamine, palmitamidoethyldimethylamine, behenamidopropyl dimethylamine, behenamidopropyl diethylamine, behenamidoethyldiethylamine, behenamidoethyldimethylamine, arachidamidopropyl dimethylamine, arachidamidopropyl diethylamine, arachidamiethyldiethylamine, arachidamiethyldimethylamine, and / or combinations thereof.
4. A hair treatment composition according to any one of claims 1 to 3, selected from shampoo, rinse-off hair conditioner, hair mask, leave-in conditioner composition, and pre-treatment composition, having a pH of 3 to 7, preferably 3 to 6, more preferably 3 to 5.
5. A hair treatment composition according to any one of claims 1 to 4, which is free of sulfates, parabens, phthalates, and petrolatum.
6. A method for treating hair, a) A step of applying the hair treatment composition according to any one of claims 1, 2, 4, and 5 in the form of a shampoo to bleached hair rich in melanin, b) After a period of less than 5 minutes, the shampoo is rinsed from the hair. c) A step of applying the hair treatment composition according to any one of claims 1 and 3 to 5 of the conditioner form to the same hair, d) After a period of less than 5 minutes, rinse the conditioner from the hair. e) A step of applying the hair treatment composition according to any one of claims 1 and 3 to 5 in the form of a leave-in conditioner to the same hair, f) After a period of less than one hour, rinse the leave-in conditioner from the hair. g) A step of drying the hair at a relative humidity of 60% for at least 8 hours, i) A process in which steps a) to g) are repeated 1 to 5 times on the same hair. Methods that include...
7. A method for treating hair, a) A step of applying a hair treatment composition in the form of a shampoo to bleached hair, d) The step of rinsing the shampoo from the hair after a time of less than 5 minutes, e) A step of applying a hair treatment composition in the form of a conditioner to the same hair, d) After a period of less than 5 minutes, rinse the conditioner from the hair. e) A step of applying the hair treatment composition according to any one of claims 1 and 3 to 5 in the form of a leave-in conditioner to the same hair, f) After a period of less than one hour, rinse the leave-in conditioner from the hair. g) A process in which steps a) to g) are repeated 1 to 25 times on the same hair. Methods that include...
8. The method according to claim 6 or 7, wherein hydrogen bonds are re-established in the hair after the completion of steps a) to g), or hydrogen bonds are repaired in the hair after the completion of steps a) to g), or hydrogen bonds are re-established and repaired in the hair after the completion of steps a) to g).