Methods for using keratin fibers in cosmetic treatments

Abstract

The present invention relates to a method for cosmetically treating keratin fibers (12), preferably hair, comprising the following steps: a) A step of applying an aqueous cosmetic composition (14) to keratin fibers; and then b) A step of exposing the keratin fibers to microwave radiation This includes methods.

Description

Technical Field

[0001] The present invention relates to a method for cosmetically treating keratin fibers, preferably hair, comprising the following steps: a) applying an aqueous cosmetic composition to the keratin fibers; and then b) exposing the keratin fibers to microwave radiation.

Background Art

[0002] For example, such a method as described in the document WO2011 / 141882 in the name of the applicant of the present application is particularly intended to shape keratin fibers. For example, such a method aims to curl, wave, or shape the hair into a smooth shape.

[0003] This type of known method does not always achieve a rapid and effective shaping of the hair, nor does it always achieve a highly persistent retention of the obtained shape. Furthermore, some compositions containing thiols cause deterioration of the keratin fibers.

Prior Art Documents

Patent Documents

[0004]

Patent Document 1

Summary of the Invention

Problems to be Solved by the Invention

[0005] An object of the present invention is to provide a method of the above type that provides a rapid, effective, and highly persistent shaping of keratin fibers while maintaining the integrity of the fibers.

Means for Solving the Problems

[0006] For this purpose, an object of the first aspect of the present invention is a method of the above-described type of cosmetic treatment, wherein the cosmetic composition contains at least one thiol and has a pH strictly less than 6.

[0007] According to an advantageous embodiment of the first aspect of the present invention, a cosmetic treatment method includes one or more of the following features, which have been considered separately or in any technically appropriate combination: - The thiol in the cosmetic composition is selected from cysteine, thioglycolic acid, thiolactic acid, cysteamine, mercaptopropionic acid, and salts thereof; preferably, the thiol is cysteine ​​or one of its salts; - The total concentration of thiols in the cosmetic composition is 0.5% to 15% by mass, preferably 1% to 10% by mass, and more preferably 4% to 8% by mass, based on the total mass of the cosmetic composition; - The pH of the cosmetic composition is 2.5 to 5.9, preferably 3 to 5.9, more preferably 4 to 5.5, and even more preferably 4.5 to 5.2; - The cosmetic composition contains at least 5% by mass of water, preferably at least 25% by mass of water, and more preferably at least 50% by mass of water, based on the total mass of the composition at a temperature of 25°C and a pressure of 1 atm; - The duration of the microwave exposure process is 1 to 10 minutes, more preferably 2 to 5 minutes; - The method further comprises the step of applying a setting composition to keratin fibers, wherein the setting composition comprises at least one oxidizing compound, and the step is carried out after the step of applying a cosmetic composition to the keratin fibers, preferably after the step of exposure to microwave radiation.

[0008] An object of a second aspect of the present invention is a cosmetic treatment method of the type described above, wherein the cosmetic composition comprises at least one compound of the following general formula (I), in a chloride or non-chloride form, (I): R = C(NR1R2)(NR3R4), =R indicates =O or =NH; Each of the substituents R1, R2, R3, and R4 is independently selected from hydrogen and alkyl groups.

[0009] According to an advantageous embodiment of a second aspect of the present invention, a cosmetic treatment method includes one or more of the following features, which have been considered separately or in any technically appropriate combination: - When thiols are present in the cosmetic composition, the total concentration of thiols is less than 10% by mass, preferably less than 5% by mass, more preferably less than 1% by mass, and even more preferably less than 0.1% by mass, relative to the total mass of the cosmetic composition; - The compound of general formula (I) is selected from urea, guanidine, or salts thereof, preferably selected from urea and its salts; - The compound of general formula (I) is in the form of a salt, and the salt is preferably selected from chloride, hydrochloride, acetate, carbonate, bicarbonate, phosphate, and citrate; - The total concentration of the compound of general formula (I), in chloride or non-chlorinated form, in the cosmetic composition is 1% to 40% by mass, preferably 3% to 30% by mass, and more preferably 5% to 25% by mass, based on the total mass of the cosmetic composition; - The pH of the cosmetic composition is 3 to 12, preferably 5 to 10; - The cosmetic composition contains at least 5% by mass of water, preferably at least 25% by mass of water, and more preferably at least 50% by mass of water, based on the total mass of the composition at a temperature of 25°C and a pressure of 1 atm; - The duration of step b) exposure to microwave radiation is 5 min to 30 min, preferably 10 min to 20 min.

[0010] The object of a third aspect of the present invention is a cosmetic treatment method of the type described above, wherein the cosmetic composition comprises at least one amine compound selected from amino acids and / or alkanolamines, in a chlorinated or non-chlorinated form, and the pH of the cosmetic composition is 9 or higher.

[0011] According to an advantageous embodiment of a third aspect of the present invention, a cosmetic treatment method includes one or more of the following features, which have been considered separately or according to any technically appropriate combination: - When thiols are present in the cosmetic composition, the total concentration of thiols is less than 10% by mass, preferably less than 5% by mass, more preferably less than 1% by mass, and even more preferably less than 0.1% by mass, relative to the total mass of the cosmetic composition; - The cosmetic composition comprises at least one amino acid, wherein the amino acid comprises at least one carboxylic acid or sulfonic acid functional group, preferably at least one carboxylic acid functional group; - An amino acid containing only one carboxylic acid functional group and / or only one amine functional group; - The amino acid is selected from among taurine, lysine, arginine, histidine, glycine, valine, proline, alanine, leucine, and isoleucine; preferably selected from among glycine, lysine, and arginine; - The cosmetic composition comprises at least one alkanolamine, wherein the alkanolamine comprises an alkane group and an amine group, the alkane group is preferably unbranched and / or the amine group is preferably a primary amine, and the alkanolamine more preferably comprises an unbranched alkane group and a primary amine group; - The cosmetic composition comprises at least one alkanolamine, wherein the alkanolamine is selected from monoethanolamine, triethanolamine, 2-methyl-2-amino-1-propanol, 2-methyl-2-amino-1,3-propanediol, monoisopropanolamine, diisopropanolamine, triisopropanolamine, tris(hydroxymethyl)aminomethane, 1-amino-2-propanol, 2-amino-1-propanol, 3-amino-1-propanol, 4-amino-1-butanol, 5-amino-1-pentanol, 6-amino-1-hexanol, and 1,3-diamino-2-propanol; preferably selected from monoethanolamine, 2-methyl-2-amino-1-propanol, and 1-amino-2-propanol; - The total concentration of amine compounds selected from amino acids and / or alkanolamines in the cosmetic composition, in chloride or non-chlorinated form, is 1% to 25% by mass, preferably 2% to 15% by mass, and more preferably 3% to 10% by mass, based on the total mass of the cosmetic composition; - The pH of the cosmetic composition is 10 or higher, preferably 10 to 12, more preferably 10 to 11; - The cosmetic composition further comprises one or more alkalizing agents selected from alkali metal or alkaline earth metal hydroxides, silicates, and carbonates; and / or one or more acidifying agents selected from hydrochloric acid, citric acid, acetic acid, and phosphoric acid; - The duration of step b) of exposure to microwave radiation is 1 mn to 30 mn, more preferably 1 mn to 10 mn.

[0012] According to another advantageous aspect of the present invention, a cosmetic treatment method includes one or more of the following features, which have been considered separately or in any technically appropriate combination: - Step b) of exposure to microwave radiation is carried out with a radiated power in the range of 10W to 300W, preferably 20W to 100W; - Step b) of exposure to microwave radiation is carried out at a radiation frequency in the range of 500 MHz to 300 GHz, preferably 500 MHz to 10 GHz, more preferably 900 MHz to 5 GHz, and even more preferably 2 GHz to 3 GHz; - The cosmetic treatment method further comprises step c) applying tension to keratin fibers, and step b) being performed on the tensioned keratin fibers; - Step c) of applying tension to the keratin fibers is carried out by winding the keratin fibers onto a support; - The tensile keratin fibers are placed in a closed chamber during step b) in which they are exposed to microwave radiation.

[0013] The present invention is merely presented as a non-limiting example and will be better understood by reading the following description made with reference to the drawings.

Brief Description of the Drawings

[0014] [Figure 1] It is a schematic diagram of a set for implementing the method according to an embodiment of the present invention. [Figure 2] It is a diagram showing a photograph of keratin fibers subjected to a beauty treatment method according to an embodiment of the first aspect of the present invention. [Figure 3] It is a diagram showing a photograph of keratin fibers subjected to a beauty treatment method according to an embodiment of the second aspect of the present invention. [Figure 4] It is a diagram showing a photograph of keratin fibers subjected to a beauty treatment method according to an embodiment of the third aspect of the present invention. [Figure 5] It is a diagram showing a photograph of keratin fibers subjected to a beauty treatment method according to an embodiment of the third aspect of the present invention.

Modes for Carrying Out the Invention

[0015] Cosmetic Set and Composition FIG. 1 shows a set 10 for implementing the method according to an embodiment of the present invention. The method relates to the beauty treatment of keratin fibers, such as hair strands 12.

[0016] In particular, the set 10 includes a cosmetic composition 14; a device 16 for exposure to microwave radiation; and optionally a support 18 for keratin fibers.

[0017] The cosmetic composition 14 is an aqueous composition. Aqueous is to be understood as meaning that it contains at least 5% by weight of water relative to the total mass of the composition at a temperature of 25 ° C and a pressure of 1 atm.

[0018] More preferably, the cosmetic composition 14 contains at least 25% by weight of water, even more preferably at least 50% by weight of water, relative to the total mass of the composition.

[0019] The cosmetic composition 14 will be described in more detail below.

[0020] The device 16 for exposure to microwave radiation comprises a microwave generator 20. In the embodiment of the present invention shown in Figure 1, the device 16 further comprises an antenna 22 and a chamber 24.

[0021] In an exemplary embodiment, the generator 20 can expose keratin fibers to microwave radiation with radiated power ranging from 10W to 300W, preferably from 20W to 100W.

[0022] In an exemplary embodiment, the generator 20 can expose keratin fibers to microwave radiation at radiation frequencies in the range of 500 MHz to 300 GHz, preferably 500 MHz to 10 GHz, more preferably 900 MHz to 5 GHz, and even more preferably 2 GHz to 3 GHz.

[0023] Preferably, the generator 20 includes an electronic module that stores a program in which power and the duration of exposure to microwaves are set. Preferably, the generator 20 further includes an interface that allows the user to select the parameters for microwave exposure of keratin fibers.

[0024] In an exemplary embodiment, the antenna 22 includes a rod 26 and a base 28. The rod 26 forms the free end of the antenna 22. The base 28 extends the rod 26 and is connected to the generator 20 by an electrical connection cable 30.

[0025] Chamber 24 is intended to contain keratin fibers, particularly hair strands 12, during exposure to microwave radiation. For this purpose, Chamber 24 is configured to receive an antenna 22, as detailed below.

[0026] For example, set 10 includes a case 32 comprising two similar elements 34 hinged to each other. Each element 34 includes a cavity 36 defined by an end 38. The chamber 24 is embodied by the case 32 arranged in a closed configuration, with the ends 38 of the two cavities 36 in contact with each other, and the cavities 36 form the chamber 24.

[0027] One end of each cavity is extended by a groove 40. In a closed configuration, the groove 40 forms an orifice for passing the cable 30.

[0028] Preferably, each cavity 36 includes a wall 42 coated with an insulating material, which allows the microwaves to be contained inside the chamber 24.

[0029] In an exemplary embodiment, at least one end 38 of the cavity 36 includes a series of notches 44 that can receive keratin fibers, which are detailed below.

[0030] Other chambers that may be used in the context of the present invention are described in the aforementioned document WO2011 / 141882.

[0031] The support 18 is intended to apply tension to the keratin fibers while they are exposed to microwave radiation. In exemplary embodiments, the support 18 has a tubular shape. More specifically, the support 18 is of the roll or curler type.

[0032] In particular, the support 18 is intended to be received in the chamber 24 while the keratin fibers are exposed to microwave radiation. More specifically, the support 18 includes a line-symmetric outer surface 46 that can be used to wind hair strands 12, and an internal space 48 that is open at least one end, allowing the rods 26 of the antenna 22 to be inserted into the internal space.

[0033] In exemplary embodiments, the device 16 and support 18 are configured to shape hair strands 12 into a curled or wavy form. In one variant not shown, the support is intended to be able to smooth keratin fibers by applying tension to them in a stretched or flattened configuration. Similarly, devices for exposure to microwave radiation, in particular chambers, are configured to receive such supports.

[0034] First aspect of the present invention According to a first aspect of the present invention, the cosmetic composition 14 contains at least one thiol. "Thiol" should be understood as an organic compound of general formula HS-R or a salt thereof. "Salt" should be understood as a compound that is in ionic form and associated with a counterion, inorganic or organic substance.

[0035] Preferably, the group -R is an organic group containing an atom selected from C, H, O, N, and S.

[0036] Preferably, the group R is 200 g.mol. -1 Less than 100 g / mol, more preferably 100 g / mol -1 It has a molar mass of less than 1.

[0037] Optionally, cosmetic composition 14 comprises several different thiols, each thiol corresponding to the general formula HS-R as defined herein, whether in salt form or otherwise.

[0038] Preferably, the thiol in the cosmetic composition 14 is selected from cysteine, thioglycolic acid, thiolactic acid, cysteamine, mercaptopropionic acid, and salts thereof.

[0039] More preferably, all thiols in the cosmetic composition are selected from the above-mentioned compounds.

[0040] More preferably, the thiol in the cosmetic composition is a type of cysteine ​​and / or a salt thereof.

[0041] For example, the salt is selected from salts of mineral acids or organic acids, especially halides, especially chlorides or hydrochlorides; acetates; carbonates; bicarbonates; phosphates; citrates; and ammonium salts.

[0042] Preferably, the total concentration of thiols in the cosmetic composition 14 is between 0.5% to 15% by mass, preferably 1% to 10% by mass, and more preferably 4% to 8% by mass, relative to the total mass of the cosmetic composition.

[0043] The cosmetic composition 14 has a pH of strictly less than 6. Preferably, the pH of the cosmetic composition 14 is 3 to 5.9, more preferably 4 to 5.5, and even more preferably 4.5 to 5.2.

[0044] Preferably, the cosmetic composition 14 further comprises one or more compounds selected from a solvent; a silicone-treated or unsilicone-treated fatty substance; a silicone-treated or unsilicone-treated anionic, cationic, nonionic or amphoteric surfactant; a polymer, preferably anionic, cationic, nonionic or amphoteric-treated or thickening polymer; an anti-dandruff agent; and an anti-hair loss agent.

[0045] Preferably, the cosmetic composition 14 is in the form of a liquid or viscous substance, such as a serum, gel, or cream.

[0046] A second aspect of the present invention According to a second aspect of the present invention, the cosmetic composition 14 comprises at least one compound of the following general formula (I), either in a chlorinated or non-chlorinated form, (I): R = C(NR1R2)(NR3R4), =R represents =O or =NH; Each of the substituents R1, R2, R3, and R4 is independently selected from hydrogen and alkyl groups.

[0047] Preferably, the linear or branched alkyl group contains 1 to 10 carbon atoms, and more preferably 1 to 4 carbon atoms.

[0048] Preferably, at least one of the substituents R1, R2, R3, and R4 is hydrogen. More preferably, formula (I) represents R=C(NH2)2, where =R represents =O or =NH.

[0049] Furthermore, preferably, if thiols are present, the total concentration of thiols in the cosmetic composition is less than 10% by mass, preferably less than 5% by mass, more preferably less than 1% by mass, and even more preferably less than 0.1% by mass, relative to the total mass of the cosmetic composition. A thiol is defined as an organic compound containing an -SH group.

[0050] In a preferred modification, the composition does not contain intentionally introduced thiols. More generally, in this preferred modification, the cosmetic composition 14 does not contain any chemicals that reduce disulfide bonds.

[0051] According to another modification, when thiols are present, the total concentration of thiols in the cosmetic composition is 10% by mass or more relative to the total mass of the cosmetic composition.

[0052] Preferably, the compound of the following general formula (I) is selected from urea, where =R is =O; guanidine, where =R is =NH; and their salts. "Salt" should be understood as a compound that is in ionic form and associated with a counterion, inorganic or organic substance.

[0053] For example, the salt is selected from salts of mineral acids or organic acids, especially halides, especially chlorides or hydrochlorides; acetates; carbonates; bicarbonates; phosphates; and citrates.

[0054] Preferably, the compound of general formula (I) is selected from urea and its salts.

[0055] Preferably, the total concentration of the compound of general formula (I) in the cosmetic composition 14, in chloride or non-chlorinated form, is 1% to 40% by mass relative to the total mass of the cosmetic composition. More preferably, the total concentration is 3% to 30% by mass, and even more preferably, 5% to 25% by mass, relative to the total mass of the cosmetic composition.

[0056] Preferably, the pH of the cosmetic composition 14 is 3 to 12, more preferably 5 to 10.

[0057] Preferably, the cosmetic composition 14 further comprises one or more compounds selected from a solvent; a silicone-treated or unsilicone-treated fatty substance; a silicone-treated or unsilicone-treated anionic, cationic, nonionic or amphoteric surfactant; a polymer, preferably anionic, cationic, nonionic or amphoteric-treated or thickening polymer; an anti-dandruff agent; and an anti-hair loss agent.

[0058] Preferably, the cosmetic composition 14 is in the form of a liquid or viscous substance, such as a serum, gel, or cream.

[0059] Third aspect of the present invention According to a third aspect of the present invention, the cosmetic composition 14 comprises at least one amine compound (I) selected from amino acids and / or alkanolamines, in a chlorinated or non-chlorinated form.

[0060] Furthermore, the pH of the cosmetic composition is 9 or higher.

[0061] Furthermore, preferably, if thiols are present, the total concentration of thiols in the cosmetic composition is less than 10% by mass, preferably less than 5% by mass, more preferably less than 1% by mass, and even more preferably less than 0.1% by mass, relative to the total mass of the cosmetic composition. A thiol is defined as an organic compound containing an -SH group.

[0062] In a preferred modification, the composition does not contain intentionally introduced thiols. More generally, in this preferred modification, the cosmetic composition 14 does not contain any chemicals that reduce disulfide bonds.

[0063] In particular, cosmetic composition 14 does not contain large amounts of chemical substances, such as thiols, alkaline sulfites, phosphines, or hydrides.

[0064] According to another modification, when thiols are present, the total concentration of thiols in the cosmetic composition is 10% by mass or more relative to the total mass of the cosmetic composition.

[0065] According to a preferred embodiment, the cosmetic composition 14 comprises at least one amino acid, wherein the amino acid comprises at least one carboxylic acid or sulfonic acid functional group, more preferably at least one carboxylic acid functional group. Even more preferably, the amino acid of the present invention comprises only one carboxylic acid functional group.

[0066] According to a preferred embodiment, the amino acid contains only one amine functional group.

[0067] According to a preferred embodiment, the amino acid is selected from taurine, lysine, arginine, histidine, glycine, valine, proline, alanine, leucine, and isoleucine; preferably selected from glycine, lysine, and arginine. More preferably, the amino acid is glycine having the formula H2N-CH2-COOH.

[0068] According to a preferred embodiment, the cosmetic composition 14 comprises at least one alkanolamine, wherein the alkanolamine comprises an alkane group and an amine group. More preferably, the alkane group is an unbranched alkane and / or the amine group is a primary amine. Even more preferably, the alkanolamine comprises an unbranched alkane group and a primary amine group.

[0069] Preferably, the alkanolamine is selected from monoethanolamine, triethanolamine, 2-methyl-2-amino-1-propanol, 2-methyl-2-amino-1,3-propanediol, monoisopropanolamine, diisopropanolamine, triisopropanolamine, tris(hydroxymethyl)-aminomethane, 1-amino-2-propanol, 2-amino-1-propanol, 3-amino-1-propanol, 4-amino-1-butanol, 5-amino-1-pentanol, 6-amino-1-hexanol, and 1,3-diamino-2-propanol; more preferably, it is selected from monoethanolamine, 2-methyl-2-amino-1-propanol, and 1-amino-2-propanol.

[0070] According to one embodiment, the amine compound (I) is in a chloride form, i.e., an ionic form, and is associated with a counterion, inorganic or organic substance.

[0071] For example, the salt is selected from salts of mineral acids or organic acids, especially halides, especially chlorides or hydrochlorides; acetates; carbonates; bicarbonates; phosphates; and citrates.

[0072] According to a preferred embodiment, the total concentration of the amine compound (I) in the cosmetic composition 14, in a chlorinated or non-chlorinated form, is 1% to 25% by mass, more preferably 2% to 15% by mass, and even more preferably 3% to 10% by mass, based on the total mass of the cosmetic composition.

[0073] In a preferred embodiment, the pH of the cosmetic composition 14 is 10 or higher. More preferably, the pH of the cosmetic composition 14 is 10 to 12, and even more preferably, it is in the range of 10 to 11.

[0074] In a preferred embodiment, the cosmetic composition 14 further comprises an alkalizing agent selected from alkali metal or alkaline earth metal hydroxides, silicates, and carbonates, and / or an acidifying agent selected from hydrochloric acid, citric acid, acetic acid, and phosphoric acid.

[0075] Alternatively, the pH is achieved using amine compound (I) present in the composition. In this case, the cosmetic composition 14 does not contain any further alkalizing agents.

[0076] Preferably, the cosmetic composition 14 further comprises one or more compounds selected from a solvent; a silicone-treated or unsilicone-treated fatty substance; a silicone-treated or unsilicone-treated anionic, cationic, nonionic or amphoteric surfactant; a polymer, preferably anionic, cationic, nonionic or amphoteric-treated or thickening polymer; an anti-dandruff agent; and an anti-hair loss agent.

[0077] Preferably, the cosmetic composition 14 is in the form of a liquid or viscous substance, such as a serum, gel, or cream.

[0078] Cosmetic treatment methods A method for performing a cosmetic treatment according to an embodiment of the present invention, using the above set 10, is described below.

[0079] Hair strand 12 is considered to belong to the user's hair.

[0080] In the first step of the method, hair strands 12 are impregnated with one dose of cosmetic composition 14.

[0081] In the second step, the strand 12 is wrapped around the support 18 under tension.

[0082] In the third step, the strand 12 and the support 18 are assembled into the device 16. More specifically, the rod 26 of the antenna 22 is inserted into the support 18. The antenna 22 is then positioned in the cavity 36 of the first element 34 of the case, and the cable 30 is positioned in the groove 40. The strand 12 is positioned such that the second portion 52 of the strand 12 is positioned in the notch 44 at the end 38 of the cavity 36. The second element 34 of the case is then folded, and the case is closed to form the chamber 24. The second portion 52 of the strand 12 protrudes out of the chamber through the opening formed by the notch 44.

[0083] In the fourth step of exposure to microwaves, the generator 20 generates microwaves at a preset power and frequency. Thus, the first portion 50 of the strand 12, located inside the chamber 24, is exposed to microwave radiation through the antenna 22.

[0084] In the reaction with water contained in the cosmetic composition 14, microwaves can generate heat, particularly within the keratin fibers, causing a chemical reaction between the fibers and the compounds present in the cosmetic composition 14.

[0085] For example, the duration of the microwave exposure process is in the range of several minutes. According to the first aspect of the present invention, the duration of the microwave exposure process is preferably varied from 1 to 10 minutes, more preferably from 2 to 5 minutes. According to the second aspect of the present invention, the duration of the microwave exposure process is preferably varied from 5 to 30 minutes, more preferably from 10 to 20 minutes. According to the third aspect of the present invention, the duration of the microwave exposure process is preferably varied from 1 to 30 minutes, more preferably from 1 to 10 minutes.

[0086] According to an embodiment of the first aspect of the present invention, the beauty treatment method further comprises the step of applying a setting composition to keratin fibers. The setting composition comprises at least one oxidizing compound, for example, sodium bromate or hydrogen peroxide, in an aqueous solution.

[0087] Preferably, the step of applying the setting composition is carried out after the first step of impregnating the keratin fibers with the cosmetic composition 14. More preferably, the step of applying the setting composition is carried out after the fourth step of exposure to microwaves.

[0088] According to embodiments of the present invention, the cosmetic treatment method then includes a step of rinsing the hair strands 12, preferably with water, after the fourth step of exposure to microwaves.

[0089] According to a third embodiment of the present invention, the cosmetic treatment method further comprises the step of applying a treatment composition to hair strands 12, wherein the treatment application has an acidic pH. The step of applying the treatment composition is performed after exposure to microwaves. The step of applying the treatment composition may be performed before or after the rinsing step described herein.

[0090] The above cosmetic treatment method allows for quick and effective shaping of hair, particularly in curled, wavy, or smooth forms. The shaping has a satisfactory duration of retention, especially for several months. Furthermore, since the treated hair does not deteriorate or deteriorates very little by the cosmetic treatment, it is possible to receive the treatment frequently.

[0091] Therefore, such cosmetic procedures are suitable for frequently reshaping the hair to alter the user's physical appearance as needed. [Examples]

[0092] First aspect of the present invention (Example 1) A method for curling hair with high persistence using a composition containing at least one thiol at a pH strictly below 6. A 2.7g, 27cm damp strand of natural straight hair was treated as follows:

[0093] The strands are shampooed and squeezed, and then the aqueous composition according to the present invention, which contains at least one naturally occurring thiol with a pH of 5.2, is applied regularly and uniformly along the strands at a minimum bath ratio of 0.74 g of the composition per 1 g of hair.

[0094] Next, wrap the strand around the curler and secure it with a clip.

[0095] Next, the curler is placed in the cavity chamber and then treated under microwave irradiation at 20W power for a total of 5 minutes.

[0096] The process is followed by a setting step, during which an aqueous composition containing at least one oxidizing agent with an adjusted pH of 7.5 is applied to strands of hair that have been wrapped around and held in curlers, at a minimum bath ratio of 2 g of the composition per 1 g of hair. After setting for 10 minutes, the process is completed, followed by rinsing or shampooing as needed.

[0097] The durability to shampoo washing is shown by the photographs reported in Figure 2.

[0098] Tables 1 and 2 below contain the aqueous compositions to which the treatment was applied.

[0099] [Table 1]

[0100] [Table 2]

[0101] This method makes it possible to reshape the strands (which are initially straight), and the resulting strands maintain their integrity and curl with high durability.

[0102] A second aspect of the present invention (Example 2) A method for curling hair with high persistence using an aqueous composition containing at least urea. A 2.7g, 27cm damp strand of natural straight hair was treated as follows:

[0103] The strands are shampooed and squeezed, and then the aqueous composition according to the present invention, which contains urea with a pH of approximately 8, is applied regularly and uniformly along the strands at a minimum bath ratio of 0.74 g of the composition per 1 g of hair.

[0104] Next, wrap the strand around the curler and secure it with a clip.

[0105] The curler is then placed in the cavity chamber and treated under microwave irradiation for 2 minutes at 35W power, then for 15 minutes at 25W power, for a total of 17 minutes.

[0106] Following the completion of the process, rinse or shampoo as needed.

[0107] The durability against shampoo washing is shown by the photographs reported in Figure 3.

[0108] Table 3 below contains the aqueous compositions to which the treatment was applied.

[0109] [Table 3]

[0110] This method makes it possible to reshape the strands (which are initially straight), and the resulting strands maintain their integrity and curl with high durability.

[0111] Third aspect of the present invention (Example 3) A method for curling hair with high persistence using a composition containing at least one amino acid. A 2.7g, 27cm damp strand of natural straight hair was treated as follows:

[0112] The strands are shampooed and squeezed, and then the aqueous composition according to the present invention, which contains at least one amino acid with an adjusted pH of 10.7, is applied regularly and uniformly along the strands at a minimum bath ratio of 0.74 g of the composition per 1 g of hair.

[0113] Next, wrap the strand around the curler and secure it with a clip.

[0114] The curler is then placed in the cavity chamber and treated under microwave irradiation for 3 minutes at 50W power, then for 6 minutes and 15 seconds at 40W power, for a total of 9 minutes and 15 seconds.

[0115] Following the completion of the process, rinse or shampoo as needed.

[0116] The durability to shampoo washing is shown by the photographs reported in Figure 4.

[0117] Table 4 below contains the aqueous compositions to which the samples were applied.

[0118] [Table 4]

[0119] This method makes it possible to reshape the strands (which are initially straight), and the resulting strands curl with high durability while maintaining their integrity.

[0120] (Example 4) A method for curling hair with high persistence using a composition containing at least one alkanolamine. A moistened strand of 2.7 g, 27 cm of natural straight hair was treated according to the same method as in Example 3 described herein. The aqueous composition is detailed in Table 5 below and has a pH of 10.7.

[0121] [Table 5]

[0122] The durability against shampoo washing is shown by the photographs reported in Figure 5.

[0123] This method makes it possible to reshape the strands (which are initially straight), and the resulting strands maintain their integrity and curl with high durability. [Explanation of symbols]

[0124] 10 sets 12 Hair Strands 14 Cosmetic Compositions 16 devices 18 Support 20 Microwave generators 22 Antennas 24 chambers 26 rods 28 Base 30 Electrical connection cables 32 cases 34 elements 36 Cavity 38 End 40 grooves 42 Wall 44 Notches 46 Exterior 48 Interior space 50 Part 1 52 Part 2

Claims

1. A method for cosmetically treating keratin fibers (12), preferably hair, comprising the following steps: a) A step of applying an aqueous cosmetic composition (14) to keratin fibers; and then b) A step of exposing the keratin fibers to microwave radiation A method comprising a cosmetic composition containing at least one thiol and having a pH of strictly less than 6.

2. The cosmetic treatment method according to claim 1, wherein the thiol in the cosmetic composition (14) is selected from cysteine, thioglycolic acid, thiolactic acid, cysteamine, mercaptopropionic acid, and salts thereof.

3. The cosmetic treatment method according to claim 1 or 2, wherein the total concentration of thiols in the cosmetic composition (14) is 0.5% to 15% by mass, preferably 1% to 10% by mass, and more preferably 4% to 8% by mass, based on the total mass of the cosmetic composition.

4. A method for cosmetic treatment according to any one of claims 1 to 3, wherein the pH of the cosmetic composition (14) is 2.5 to 5.9, preferably 3 to 5.9, more preferably 4 to 5.5, and even more preferably 4.5 to 5.

2.

5. A cosmetic treatment method according to any one of claims 1 to 4, wherein the cosmetic composition (14) contains at least 5% by mass of water, preferably at least 25% by mass of water, and more preferably at least 50% by mass of water, based on the total mass of the composition at a temperature of 25°C and a pressure of 1 atm.

6. The cosmetic treatment method according to any one of claims 1 to 5, wherein the duration of the step of exposure to microwaves is 1 to 10 minutes, more preferably 2 to 5 minutes.

7. A method for cosmetic treatment according to any one of claims 1 to 6, further comprising step d) of applying a setting composition to keratin fibers, wherein the setting composition comprises at least one oxidizing compound, and step d) is performed after step a) of applying a cosmetic composition to the keratin fibers, preferably after step b) of exposing the fibers to microwave radiation.

8. A method for cosmetically treating keratin fibers (12), preferably hair, comprising the following steps: a) A step of applying an aqueous cosmetic composition (14) to keratin fibers; and then b) A step of exposing the keratin fibers to microwave radiation Includes, The cosmetic composition (14) contains at least one compound of the following general formula (I), either in a chloride or non-chloride form: (I): R=C(NR 1 R 2 )(NR 3 R 4 ) and =R indicates =O or =NH; substituent R 1 , R 2 , R 3 , R 4 A method characterized in that each of the elements is independently selected from hydrogen and alkyl groups.

9. The cosmetic treatment method according to claim 8, wherein the compound of general formula (I) is selected from urea, guanidine, or salts thereof, preferably selected from urea and its salts.

10. The cosmetic treatment method according to claim 8 or 9, wherein the compound of general formula (I) is in the form of a salt, and the salt is preferably selected from chloride, hydrochloride, acetate, carbonate, bicarbonate, phosphate, and citrate.

11. The cosmetic treatment method according to any one of claims 8 to 10, wherein the total concentration of the compound of general formula (I) in the cosmetic composition (14), in a chlorinated or non-chlorinated form, is 1% to 40% by mass, preferably 3% to 30% by mass, and more preferably 5% to 25% by mass, based on the total mass of the cosmetic composition.

12. The cosmetic treatment method according to any one of claims 8 to 11, wherein the pH of the cosmetic composition (14) is 3 to 12, preferably 5 to 10.

13. The cosmetic treatment method according to any one of claims 8 to 12, wherein the cosmetic composition (14) contains at least 5% by mass of water, preferably at least 25% by mass of water, and more preferably at least 50% by mass of water, based on the total mass of the composition at a temperature of 25°C and a pressure of 1 atm.

14. The cosmetic treatment method according to any one of claims 8 to 13, wherein the total concentration of thiols in the cosmetic composition is less than 10% by mass, preferably less than 5% by mass, more preferably less than 1% by mass, and even more preferably less than 0.1% by mass, based on the total mass of the cosmetic composition.

15. The cosmetic treatment method according to any one of claims 8 to 14, wherein the duration of step b) of exposure to microwave radiation is 5 mn to 30 mn, preferably 10 mn to 20 mn.

16. A method for cosmetically treating keratin fibers (12), preferably hair, comprising the following steps: a) A step of applying an aqueous cosmetic composition (14) to keratin fibers; and then b) A step of exposing the keratin fibers to microwave radiation Includes, The cosmetic composition (14) comprises at least one amine compound selected from amino acids and / or alkanolamines, in a chlorinated or non-chlorinated form. A method characterized in that the pH of the cosmetic composition is 9 or higher.

17. The cosmetic treatment method according to claim 16, wherein the cosmetic composition (14) comprises at least one amino acid, and the amino acid comprises at least one carboxylic acid or sulfonic acid functional group, preferably at least one carboxylic acid functional group.

18. The cosmetic treatment method according to claim 17, wherein the amino acid comprises only one carboxylic acid functional group and / or only one amine functional group.

19. The cosmetic treatment method according to claim 17 or 18, wherein the amino acid is selected from taurine, lysine, arginine, histidine, glycine, valine, proline, alanine, leucine, and isoleucine; preferably selected from glycine, lysine, and arginine.

20. A cosmetic treatment method according to any one of claims 16 to 19, wherein the cosmetic composition (14) comprises at least one alkanolamine, the alkanolamine comprising an alkane group and an amine group, the alkane group preferably being unbranched and / or the amine group preferably being a primary amine, and the alkanolamine more preferably comprising an unbranched alkane group and a primary amine group.

21. A cosmetic treatment method according to any one of claims 16 to 20, wherein the cosmetic composition (14) comprises at least one alkanolamine, the alkanolamine being selected from monoethanolamine, triethanolamine, 2-methyl-2-amino-1-propanol, 2-methyl-2-amino-1,3-propanediol, monoisopropanolamine, diisopropanolamine, triisopropanolamine, tris(hydroxymethyl)-aminomethane, 1-amino-2-propanol, 2-amino-1-propanol, 3-amino-1-propanol, 4-amino-1-butanol, 5-amino-1-pentanol, 6-amino-1-hexanol, and 1,3-diamino-2-propanol; preferably selected from monoethanolamine, 2-methyl-2-amino-1-propanol, and 1-amino-2-propanol.

22. The cosmetic treatment method according to any one of claims 16 to 21, wherein the total concentration of the amine compound in the cosmetic composition (14), in a chlorinated or non-chlorinated form, is 1% to 25% by mass, preferably 2% to 15% by mass, and more preferably 3% to 10% by mass, based on the total mass of the cosmetic composition.

23. The cosmetic treatment method according to any one of claims 16 to 22, wherein the pH of the cosmetic composition (14) is 10 or higher, preferably 10 to 12, and more preferably 10 to 11.

24. The cosmetic treatment method according to any one of claims 16 to 23, wherein the cosmetic composition (14) further comprises an alkalizing agent selected from alkali metal or alkaline earth metal hydroxides, silicates and carbonates, and / or an acidifying agent selected from hydrochloric acid, citric acid, acetic acid and phosphoric acid.

25. A cosmetic treatment method according to any one of claims 16 to 24, wherein the cosmetic composition (14) contains at least 5% by mass of water, preferably at least 25% by mass of water, and more preferably at least 50% by mass of water, based on the total mass of the composition at a temperature of 25°C and a pressure of 1 atm.

26. The cosmetic treatment method according to any one of claims 16 to 25, wherein the total concentration of thiols in the cosmetic composition is less than 10% by mass, preferably less than 5% by mass, more preferably less than 1% by mass, and even more preferably less than 0.1% by mass, based on the total mass of the cosmetic composition.

27. The cosmetic treatment method according to any one of claims 16 to 26, wherein the duration of step b) of exposure to microwave radiation is 1 mn to 30 mn, preferably 1 mn to 10 mn.

28. The cosmetic treatment method according to any one of claims 1 to 27, wherein step b) exposure to microwave radiation is performed with a radiated power in the range of 10W to 300W, preferably 20W to 100W.

29. The cosmetic treatment method according to any one of claims 1 to 28, wherein step b) exposure to microwave radiation is performed at a radiation frequency in the range of 500 MHz to 300 GHz, preferably 500 MHz to 10 GHz, more preferably 900 MHz to 5 GHz, and even more preferably 2 GHz to 3 GHz.

30. A method for cosmetic treatment according to any one of claims 1 to 29, further comprising step c) applying tension to keratin fibers (12), wherein step b) exposure to microwave radiation is performed on the tensioned keratin fibers.

31. The cosmetic treatment method according to claim 30, wherein step c) of applying tension to the keratin fibers is carried out by winding the keratin fibers (12) onto a support (18).

32. The cosmetic treatment method according to claim 30 or 31, wherein tensioned keratin fibers are placed in a closed chamber (24) during step b) in which they are exposed to microwave radiation.

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