A reverse emulsion containing polyphenols, nonionic polysaccharides, polyglycerol-containing nonionic surfactants with HLB ≤ 8, polyols, non-volatile vegetable oils, and volatile alkanes.

Abstract

The present invention relates to a composition for caring for and / or making up keratinous materials, in particular the skin, in particular in the form of a water-in-oil emulsion comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium, a) a continuous oily phase comprising i) at least one vegetable oil; and ii) at least one volatile alkane; b) at least one aqueous phase dispersed in said oily phase comprising i) at least one polyphenol X comprising at least two different phenolic groups, ii) at least one nonionic polysaccharide Y, and iii) at least one polyol; and c) at least one polyglycerolized nonionic, preferably non-silicone surfactant, having an HLB of less than or equal to 8.

Description

[Technical Field]

[0001] The present invention aims to provide a novel composition in the form of a reverse emulsion for keratin substances, particularly for the field of skin care and / or makeup, which is extremely advantageous in terms of the quality of its technical performance and the sensory perception it gives to the user when applied to these keratin substances, especially to the skin. [Background technology]

[0002] Cosmetic compositions, such as foundations, are often used not only to impart aesthetically pleasing color to the skin, but also to make uneven skin appear more beautiful by concealing scars and pigmentation disorders, making imperfections such as pores and wrinkles less noticeable, and to hide acne and acne scars. In this regard, one of the main characteristics pursued is coverage.

[0003] In the cosmetics field, water-in-oil emulsions, also known as reverse emulsions, are particularly highly valued by consumers in the areas of foundations, sunscreens, and moisturizing creams for their cosmetic properties, especially their comfort during application. This comfort is reflected in the absence or significant reduction of tightness, dryness, and / or stickiness, and / or greasiness, especially compared to "direct" oil-in-water emulsions. These same reverse emulsions also allow for the inclusion of larger amounts of fillers and / or pigments compared to direct emulsions, and enable better uniformity during application.

[0004] Many keratin-based skincare and makeup products currently on the market claim to withstand external factors such as water, sebum, and mechanical friction, and to last throughout the day.

[0005] To provide long-lasting wear for lip and face makeup, known coating agents include hydrophobic film-forming polymers, such as silicone resins, such as those with INCI name: trimethylsiloxysilicate or polypropylsilsesquioxane, or silicone acrylate copolymers, such as those with INCI name: acrylate / polytrimethylsiloxymethacrylate copolymer.

[0006] However, consumers who have stringent requirements regarding the composition of these cosmetic products also demand the use of products containing well-acceptable ingredients, such as natural ingredients, that have little to no environmental impact and / or are compatible with numerous packaging options. [Overview of the project] [Problems that the invention aims to solve]

[0007] There remains a need to find new compositions in the form of water-in-oil emulsions that have little to no environmental impact and / or are compatible with a wide range of packaging, that enable the expected cosmetic effects, particularly the excellent color retention of makeup on keratinous materials, and that are resistant to mechanical friction, water, sweat and sebum, oil, cleansing products, such as shower gels, shampoos, two-phase products, and certain micellar waters.

[0008] Unexpectedly, the inventors have found that keratin substances, in particular compositions for skin care and / or makeup, in a physiologically acceptable medium, a) i) at least one vegetable oil; and ii) At least one volatile alkane A continuous oily phase containing; b) i) At least one polyphenol X containing at least two different phenol groups, ii) at least one nonionic polysaccharide Y, and iii) at least one polyol comprising at least one aqueous phase dispersed in an oily phase; c) at least one polyglycerolized nonionic, preferably non-silicone surfactant having an HLB of 8 or less, and It has been noted that these objectives can be achieved by a composition in the form of a water-in-oil emulsion containing.

[0009] The inventors have found that the compositions of the present invention produce an excellent persistence of the expected cosmetic effects on keratinous materials, which ranges from one day, involving removing makeup at the end of the day, to several days, and is resistant to mechanical friction, water, sebum, oil, cleansing products, such as shower gels, shampoos, two-phase products and certain micellar waters. This is surprisingly due to the formation of a coating agent resulting from the interaction via hydrogen bonds between polyphenol X, nonionic polysaccharides and polyglycerolized surfactants at ambient temperature and atmospheric pressure.

[0010] This discovery forms the basis of the present invention.

Means for Solving the Problems

[0011] Thus, a first main subject of the present invention is a composition for caring for and / or applying makeup to keratinous materials, especially the skin, which is particularly in a physiologically acceptable medium, a) i) at least one vegetable oil; and ii) at least one volatile alkane comprising a continuous oily phase; b) i) at least one polyphenol X containing at least two different phenolic groups, ii) at least one nonionic polysaccharide Y, and iii) at least one polyol At least one aqueous phase dispersed in an oily phase, comprising; c) At least one polyglycerolized nonionic, preferably non-silicone surfactant having an HLB of 8 or less in the form of a water-in-oil emulsion.

[0012] According to a preferred embodiment, the composition does not contain silicone.

[0013] A second subject of the present invention is a cosmetic method for coating, particularly for making up, keratinous substances, especially the skin of the face, hands, eyelids, cheeks, etc., which method comprises at least the step of applying the composition as defined above to said keratinous substances.

Embodiments for Carrying Out the Invention

[0014] Definition In the context of the present invention, the term "keratinous substance" particularly means the skin of the face, body, hands, cheeks, eyelids, eye contours, etc.

[0015] The term "physiologically acceptable" is intended to mean that it has a pleasant color, smell, and feel and is compatible with the skin and / or skin appendages without causing any unacceptable discomfort (stinging or tautness) that would cause the consumer to want to stop using the composition.

[0016] For the purposes of the present invention, the term "hydrogen bond interaction" means an interaction in which a hydrogen atom of one of two reagents is involved with an electronegative heteroatom of another reagent such as oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur, and fluorine. In the context of the present invention, a hydrogen bond is formed between the hydroxyl (OH) functional group of the reactive phenolic group of polyphenol X and the reactive hydroxyl group of nonionic polysaccharide Y.

[0017] The term "ambient temperature" means 25°C.

[0018] The term "atmospheric pressure" is defined as 760 mmHg, or 10 5 It means Pascal.

[0019] For the purposes of this invention, the term "water-in-oil emulsion," also referred to as a reverse emulsion, is understood to mean any composition consisting of a continuous oily phase in which an aqueous phase is dispersed in droplet form, appearing as a macroscopically homogeneous mixture to the naked eye.

[0020] The term "silicone" is understood to mean any compound containing at least one silicon atom, in particular at least one Si-O group.

[0021] The term "silicone-free composition" is understood to mean any composition that contains less than 1.0% by mass of a silicone compound, actually less than 0.5% by mass, and actually less than 0.1% by mass of a silicone compound, relative to the total mass of the composition, and that does not actually contain any silicone compound.

[0022] The term "natural compound" refers to any compound derived directly from a plant without undergoing any chemical modification.

[0023] The term "naturally derived compound" refers to any compound derived from plants that has undergone chemical modification.

[0024] oily phase The cosmetic composition according to the present invention comprises an oily phase containing i) at least one non-volatile vegetable oil and ii) at least one volatile alkane.

[0025] The term "oil" is understood to mean any fatty substance in liquid form at ambient temperature (20-25°C) and atmospheric pressure.

[0026] The composition of the present invention may contain an oily phase in an amount that varies from 5% to 95% by mass, particularly 10% to 80% by mass, particularly 15% to 70% by mass, and more specifically 20% to 65% by mass, relative to the total mass of the composition.

[0027] a) Vegetable oil The oily phase of the composition of the present invention comprises at least one non-volatile vegetable oil.

[0028] The term "non-volatile oil" refers to an oil that remains on a keratinous substance for at least several hours at ambient temperature and atmospheric pressure, and is particularly volatile. -3 This is understood to mean oil with a vapor pressure of less than mmHg (0.13 Pa).

[0029] Vegetable oils can be extracted from plant products by either single cold pressing (virgin oil) or hot pressing and refining (refined oil).

[0030] The non-volatile vegetable oil of the present invention is an oil extracted directly from plants without undergoing any chemical modification.

[0031] Suitable non-volatile oils for the present invention include aloe oil, sweet almond oil, apricot kernel oil, peanut oil, argan oil, avocado oil, candlenut oil, baobab oil, borage oil, broccoli oil, calendula oil, camelina oil, carrot oil, safflower oil, hemp oil, rapeseed oil, cottonseed oil, coconut oil, cucumber seed oil, wheat germ oil, jojoba oil, shea oil, alfalfa oil, lily oil, macadamia oil, corn oil, meadowfoam oil, Examples include St. John's wort oil, millet oil, monoi oil, hazelnut oil, apricot kernel oil, walnut oil, olive oil, evening primrose oil, barley oil, palm oil, passionflower oil, poppy oil, blackcurrant seed oil, kiwi seed oil, grapeseed oil, pistachio oil, pumpkin oil, red pumpkin oil, quinoa oil, musk rose oil, sesame oil, rye oil, soybean oil, sunflower oil, castor oil, watermelon oil, and mixtures thereof.

[0032] According to one embodiment, non-volatile vegetable oils suitable for the present invention can be selected from macadamia oil, olive oil, and mixtures thereof.

[0033] The composition according to the present invention may contain 0.5% to 50% by mass of non-volatile vegetable oil based on the total mass of the composition, and more particularly, 1% to 25% by mass of vegetable oil, and more specifically, 1% to 10% by mass of non-volatile vegetable oil based on the total mass of the composition.

[0034] b) Volatile alkanes The oily phase of the composition of the present invention contains at least one volatile alkane.

[0035] The term "alkane" is understood to mean any compound containing a saturated straight or branched hydrocarbon-based chain composed solely of carbon and hydrogen atoms.

[0036] The term "volatile alkane" as used in the present invention refers to a substance that can evaporate in less than one hour upon contact with skin at ambient temperature (25°C) and atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg, i.e., 101325 Pa), is liquid at ambient temperature, and has an evaporation rate of 0.01 to 15 mg / cm³ at ambient temperature (25°C) and atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg). 2 This is understood to mean alkanes used for beauty purposes, applied over a period of time.

[0037] Examples of volatile alkanes that can be used in the oily phase of the composition of the present invention include petroleum-derived C8-C2. 16 Examples of branched alkanes such as isoalkanes (also called isoparaffins), such as isododecane (also known as 2,2,4,4,6-pentamethylheptane), isodecane, isohexadecane, and oils sold under trade names such as Isopars® or Permethyls®. More specifically, isododecane would be used.

[0038] Examples of volatile alkanes that can be used in the oily phase of the composition of the present invention include volatile linear C6-C6 alkanes. 14 Alkanes could be cited as an example.

[0039] Examples of linear alkanes suitable for the present invention include alkanes (mixtures of alkanes with at least one different carbon) described in the pamphlets of International Publication No. 2007 / 068371 and International Publication No. 2008 / 155059 of Cognis patent applications. These alkanes are obtained from fatty alcohols, and the fatty alcohols themselves are obtained from copra oil or palm oil.

[0040] Examples of linear alkanes suitable for the present invention include n - hexane (C6), n - heptane (C7), n - octane (C8), n - nonane (C9), n - decane (C 10 )、n - undecane (C 11 )、n - dodecane (C 12 )、n - tridecane (C 13 )、n - tetradecane (C 14 ) and mixtures thereof.

[0041] In particular, n - dodecane (C 12 ) and n - tetradecane (C 14 ) sold by Sasol under product numbers Parafol 12 - 97 (registered trademark) and Parafol 14 - 97 (registered trademark), respectively, and mixtures thereof can be mentioned.

[0042] According to one embodiment, a mixture of n - dodecane and n - tetradecane is used. In particular, a dodecane / tetradecane mixture with a mass ratio of 85 / 15, sold by Biosynthis under the product number Vegelight 1214 (copyright), can be used.

[0043] According to yet another embodiment, a mixture of volatile linear C9 - C 12 alkanes having an INCI name: C9 - 12 alkanes, such as the product sold by Biosynthis under Vegelight Silk (copyright), is used.

[0044] More specifically, n-undecane (C) as obtained in Examples 1 and 2 of the International Publication Brochure No. 2008 / 155059 of the application from Cognis, and as sold by BASF under the trade name Cetiol Ultimate (registered trademark). 11 ) and n-tridecane (C 13 A mixture of ) is used.

[0045] Preferably, the volatile alkane is present in a concentration of 0.5% to 90% by mass, particularly 1% to 50% by mass, and more specifically 5% to 40% by mass, relative to the total mass of the composition.

[0046] c) Additional non-volatile oils According to certain embodiments, the oily phase may include at least one additional non-volatile hydrocarbon-based oil (different from the non-volatile vegetable oils described above).

[0047] The term "hydrocarbon-based oil" refers to an oil that primarily contains carbon and hydrogen atoms and may contain one or more functional groups selected from hydroxyl groups, ester groups, ether groups, and carboxyl groups.

[0048] The term "non-volatile oil" refers to an oil that remains on a keratinous substance for at least several hours at ambient temperature and atmospheric pressure, and is particularly volatile. -3 This is understood to mean oil with a vapor pressure of less than mmHg (0.13 Pa).

[0049] Among the additional non-volatile hydrocarbon base oils that can be used in accordance with the present invention are phytosteryl oleate, phytosteryl isostearate, and phytosteryl / octyldodecyl lauroyl glutamate (Ajinomoto, Eldew PS203); fatty esters, such as diisopropyl sebacate (Stearineries Dubois, DUB DIS), isopropyl myristate (Stearineries Dubois, DUB DIS), and isopropyl palmitate (Oleon, Radia 7732); and triglycerides consisting of fatty acid and glycerol esters (in particular, these fatty acids are C4-C4). 36 , especially C 18 ~C 36 Examples include oils that may have varying chain lengths, which may be saturated or unsaturated and linear or branched, which may be heptanoic acid triglycerides or octanoic acid triglycerides, or caprylic / capric acid triglycerides, for example, those sold by Stearineries Dubois or by Dynamit Nobel under the names Miglyol 810®, 812®, and 818®.

[0050] Other examples of squalane include products sold by Aprinova under the trade name Neossance Squalane (registered trademark).

[0051] Dialkyl ether oils having 10 to 40 carbon elements, such as dicaprylyl ether, may also be mentioned, for example, products sold by Ecogreen Oleochemicals under the trade name Rofetan OE / MB® or by BASF under the trade name Cetiol OE / MB®.

[0052] According to a particular embodiment of the present invention, dicaprylyl ether is used.

[0053] Preferably, the additional non-volatile hydrocarbon base oil is present in a concentration of 50% by mass or less, more specifically 1% to 25% by mass, relative to the total mass of the composition.

[0054] According to a particular embodiment, the mass ratio of the total amount of vegetable oil to the total amount of volatile alkanes varies from 1 / 40 to 1 / 1, preferably from 1 / 20 to 1 / 5.

[0055] According to a particular embodiment, the mass ratio of the total amount of non-volatile vegetable oil to the total amount of additional non-volatile hydrocarbon base oil to the total amount of volatile alkanes varies from 1 / 8 to 1 / 1, preferably from 1 / 4 to 1 / 1.

[0056] aqueous phase The aqueous phase comprises water and optionally a water-soluble or water-miscible component, such as a water-soluble solvent.

[0057] Suitable water for the present invention may be floral water such as cornflower water and / or mineral water such as Vittel water, Lucas water or La Roche-Posay water and / or thermal water.

[0058] Furthermore, demineralized water may also be suitable for the present invention.

[0059] The composition of the present invention may contain water in an amount that varies from 5% to 80% by mass, more specifically from 20% to 65% by mass, and more preferably from 20% to 55% by mass, relative to the total mass of the composition.

[0060] Polyphenol X The polyphenols X that can be used according to the present invention contain at least two different phenol groups in their structure.

[0061] The term "polyphenol" means any compound having at least two free or condensed benzene compounds in its chemical structure, wherein each benzene compound contains at least one hydroxyl (OH) group, preferably at least two hydroxyl groups, and more preferably three hydroxyl groups.

[0062] The term "different phenol groups" refers to chemically distinct phenol groups.

[0063] Polyphenol X, which can be used in accordance with the present invention, may be synthetic or natural. They may be in isolated forms or in mixtures, and in particular in plant extracts. Polyphenols are phenols comprising at least two phenolic groups that are differently substituted in the aromatic ring.

[0064] Polyphenols are classified into two categories: flavonoids and non-flavonoids.

[0065] Examples of flavonoids that can be listed include chalcones such as phloretin, phlorisin, aspalathin, or neohesperidin; flavanols such as catechin, fisetin, kaempferol, myricetin, quercetin, rutin, procyanidin, proanthocyanidin, pyroanthocyanidin, theaflavin, or thearubidin (or thealbrin); dihydroflavonols such as astilbin, dihydroquercetin (taxifolin), or silibinin; flavanones such as hesperidin, neohesperidin, hesperetin, naringenin, or naringin; anthocyanins such as cyanidin, delphinidin, malvidin, peonidin, or petunidin; catechin tannins such as tannic acid; isoflavonoids such as daidzein or genistein; neoflavonoids; lignans such as pyrosorcinol; and mixtures thereof.

[0066] Among the natural polyphenols X that can be used in accordance with the present invention, lignin can also be mentioned.

[0067] Examples of non-flavonoids that can be cited include curcuminoids such as curcumin or tetrahydrocurcumin, stilbenoids such as astringin, resveratrol or lapontisine, aurones such as aureusidine, and mixtures thereof.

[0068] Polyphenol X that can be used according to the present invention , Luvascoside and phenol-substituted coumarins are also examples.

[0069] According to a particular embodiment of the present invention, the polyphenol is selected from catechin tannins such as gallotannins selected from tannic acid, epigallocatechin, epigallocatechin gallate, castalagin, vescalagin, vescalin, castalin, casaallicin, castanopsinin, excoecalinin, grandinin, grandinin, robulin, pterokalinin, acticimin, terimagrandin, sanguine, potentilin, pedunclagin, geraniin, kebraginic acid, lepandisinic acid, ascorgeranin, stachyrin, casaalinin, casaallinin, punicacortein, corialliin, camellia tannin, isodeshydrodigaloyl, dehydrodigaloyl, helinoyl, punicalagin, and leuptereanin, among other ellagitannins.

[0070] According to a particular embodiment of the present invention, polyphenol X is a green tea extract having epigallocatechin, particularly with the INCI name Green Tea Extract, and moreover containing at least 45% epigallocatechin relative to the total mass of the aforementioned extract, and is, for example, a commercially available product sold by Evonik Nutrition & Care under the name Dermofeel Phenon 90M-C®, or a commercially available product sold by Tayo Green Power under the name Tea Polyphenols Green Tea Extract®.

[0071] According to a particular embodiment of the present invention, polyphenol X is a procyanidin or a mixture of procyanidins, in particular an extract of maritime pine bark having the INCI name Pinus pinaster Bark / Bud Extract, and more particularly a commercially available product sold by Biolandes Aroemes, for example, under the name Pycnogenol®.

[0072] As polyphenol X, tannic acid, such as that sold commercially by Anijomoto Omnichem NV under the name Brewtan F(registered trademark), will likely be used in particular.

[0073] According to one particular embodiment, the polyphenol X of the present invention is present in an amount of 0.8% by mass or more, preferably 1.0% by mass or more, and more particularly 2.0% by mass or more, based on the total mass of the composition.

[0074] According to one particular embodiment, the polyphenol X according to the present invention is present in an amount ranging from 1.0 to 30.0% by mass, and more particularly from 2.0 to 30%, based on the total mass of the composition.

[0075] Nonionic polysaccharide Y Nonionic polysaccharide Y is a carbohydrate polymer formed by the linkage of numerous hydrophilic sugars (saccharides) linked together via O-osidic bonds.

[0076] According to one particular embodiment, the nonionic polysaccharides of the present invention are different from sugars obtained from fruits or vegetables, particularly monosaccharides such as glucose, sucrose, fructose, and sorbitol.

[0077] These may be selected from original polysaccharides, modified polysaccharides, and mixtures thereof.

[0078] The term "modified polysaccharide" refers to a polysaccharide that has been chemically or enzymatically modified and contains at least one functional group.

[0079] The functional group may be a hydrocarbon-based group (essentially composed of carbon and hydrogen atoms) such as an alkyl, alkenyl, aryl (i.e., phenyl), or aralkyl (i.e., benzyl) group. The hydrocarbon-based group may be unsubstituted, for example, consisting of a simple alkyl chain, or it may be substituted with an aromatic group such as an aryl (i.e., phenyl) or aralkyl (i.e., benzyl) group, or alternatively with a polar group such as hydroxyl.

[0080] In a preferred embodiment, the molar mass of compound Y is greater than 2000 g / mol, or even greater than 3500 g / mol.

[0081] The optionally modified nonionic polysaccharides suitable for use in the present invention may be homopolysaccharides such as fructans, glucans, galactans, and mannans, or heteropolysaccharides such as hemicellulose. They may be starchy polysaccharides such as natural starch or modified starch. Non-starchy polysaccharides can be selected from polysaccharides produced by microorganisms, polysaccharides isolated from algae, and homopolysaccharides, particularly cellulose and its derivatives or higher plant polysaccharides such as fructose, heteropolysaccharides such as galactomannan, glucomannan, and pectin, and their derivatives, as well as mixtures thereof. In particular, polysaccharides can be selected from fructans, glucans, amylose, amylopectin, glycogen, pullulan, dextran, cellulose and its derivatives, especially methylcellulose, hydroxyalkylcellulose and ethylhydroxyethylcellulose, cetylhydroxyethylcellulose, mannan, xylan, araban, galactan, galacturonan, chitin, chitosan, glucuronoxylan, arabinoxylan, xyloglucan, glucomannan, arabinogalactan, agar, karaya gum (about 40% acid), locust bean gum, guar gum and its nonionic derivatives, especially hydroxypropyl guar, and biopolysaccharide gums derived from microorganisms, especially scleroglucan gum. They can be selected from cellulose such as cetylhydroxyethylcellulose; especially modified guar gums such as hydroxypropyl guar and agarose; pullulan, starch, inulin and starch.

[0082] According to a preferred embodiment, the polysaccharide Y is selected from pullulan; cellulose such as cetyl hydroxyethylcellulose; modified guar gum, particularly hydroxypropyl guar; and mixtures thereof.

[0083] According to one preferred embodiment, polysaccharide Y is pullulan.

[0084] The pullulan according to the present invention is a polysaccharide composed of maltotriose units known as α-(1,4)-α(1,6)-glucan. The three glucose units in maltotriose are linked via α-(1,4) glycosidic bonds, while consecutive maltotriose units are linked to each other via α-(1,6) glycosidic bonds. Pullulan is produced from starch by the bacterium Aureobasidium pullulans. Pullulan is manufactured under the trade name Pullulan PF20 (registered trademark) by the Hayashibara Group in Japan, or Aqua Beta (registered trademark) by Daiso Co., Ltd. For example, there is a product sold by the Hayashibara Group under the name Pullulan Cosmetic (registered trademark).

[0085] According to one preferred embodiment, compound Y of the present invention is present in an amount of 0.8% by mass or more, preferably 1.0% by mass or more, particularly 2.0% by mass or more, and more particularly 2% to 10% by mass, based on the total mass of composition (A).

[0086] According to one preferred embodiment of the present invention, the molar ratio of the reactive hydroxyl (OH) group of polyphenol X to the reactive hydroxyl group of nonionic polysaccharide Y that can form hydrogen bonds with the hydroxyl group is preferably in the range of 1 / 3 to 20, more preferably 1 / 2 to 15, and most preferably 3 / 4 to 3.

[0087] Polyglycerol-containing emulsifying surfactant with HLB ≤ 8 The composition according to the present invention comprises at least one polyglycerol-containing emulsified nonionic surfactant with HLB ≤ 8.

[0088] For the purposes of this invention, "polyglycerol compound" is understood to mean any molecule containing a chain that includes at least two glycerol groups or -(O-CH2-CHOH-CH2)glycerol units in its chemical structure.

[0089] For the purposes of this invention, the term “surfactant” is understood to mean an amphiphilic compound, that is, a compound exhibiting two parts with different polarities. Generally, one part is lipophilic (soluble or dispersible in an oily phase), and the other is hydrophilic (soluble or dispersible in water). Emulsifying surfactants are characterized by their HLB (hydrophilic-lipid balance) value, which is the ratio of the hydrophilic to lipid-soluble parts in the molecule. The term HLB is well known to those skilled in the art and is described, for example, in “The HLB System. A Time-Saving Guide to Emulsifier Selection” (published by ICI Americas Inc; 1984). For emulsifying surfactants used in the preparation of water-in-oil emulsions, their HLB value is generally 8 or less, more specifically in the range of 3 to 8. The HLB value can be determined by the Griffin method or the Davies method.

[0090] Among the polyglycerol-containing emulsified nonionic surfactants with HLB ≤ 8 that can be used in accordance with the present invention, the following are particularly noteworthy. - Esters of isostearic acid with polyglycerol containing 2 to 10 moles of glycerol units, for example, polyglyceryl-4 isostearate sold by Evonik Nutrition & Care GmbH under the name Isolan GI34®; polyglyceryl-3 diisostearate sold by Cognis under the name Lameform TGI®; polyglyceryl-2 diisostearate sold by Nippon Emulsion Co., Ltd. under the name Emalex PGSA®; polyglyceryl-10 isostearate sold by Nippon Surfactant Industry Co., Ltd. under the name Nikkol Decaglyn 1-IS®; polyglyceryl-4 diisostearate / polyhydroxystearate sebacate sold by Evonik Nutrition & Care GmbH under the name Isolan GPS®; and Cithrol from Croda Europe, Ltd. Polyglyceryl-2 triisostearate, sold under the name PG23IS (registered trademark); - Esters of stearic acid and polyglycerol containing 2 or 3 moles of glycerol units, for example, polyglyceryl-2 sesquistearate sold by Taiyo Kagaku Co., Ltd. under the name Sunsoft Q-18B(registered trademark), polyglyceryl-3 distearate sold by BASF under the name Cremophor GS 32(registered trademark), and polyglyceryl-2 stearate sold by Clariant International Ltd. under the name Hostacerin DGMS(registered trademark); - Esters of oleic acid with polyglycerols containing 2 or 3 moles of glycerol units, for example, polyglyceryl-2 oleate sold by Nikko Chemicals Co., Ltd. under the name Nikkol DGMO-CV (registered trademark), polyglyceryl-3 oleate and polyglyceryl-2 dioleate sold by Evonik Nutrition & Care GmbH under the name Isolan GO 33 (registered trademark); polyglyceryl-3 dioleate sold by Gattefosse under the name Plurol Oleique CC 497 (registered trademark); - Polyglyceryl polyricinolates containing 3 to 6 moles of glycerol units, for example, polyglyceryl-3 polyricinolate sold by Karlshamns under the name Akoline PGPR®, or by Stearinerie Dubois Fils under the name Dub PGPR, or by Dr. Straetmans under the name Dermofeel®, or by Croda under the name Crester PR®, or by Sasol under the name Imwitor 600®; polyglyceryl-5 polyricinolate sold by Taiyo Kagaku Co., Ltd. under the name Sunsoft No.818R®; polyglyceryl-6 polyricinolate sold by Nikko Chemicals Co., Ltd. under the name Hexaglyn PR-15®, or by Sakamoto Pharmaceutical Co., Ltd. under the name SY Glyster-75®.

[0091] According to one embodiment, a mixture of these compounds can be used.

[0092] More specifically, the polyglycerol-modified nonionic surfactant is selected from polyglyceryl polyricinoleates containing 3 to 6 moles of glycerol units, and more specifically, from polyglyceryl-6 polyricinoleates sold by Nikko Chemicals Co., Ltd. under the name Hexaglyn PR-15 (registered trademark), or by Sakamoto Pharmaceutical Co., Ltd. under the name SY-Glyster CRS-75 (registered trademark).

[0093] The composition of the present invention preferably contains 2% to 10% by mass, particularly 2% to 7% by mass, of a polyglycerol-modified nonionic surfactant with HLB ≤ 8, based on the total mass of the composition.

[0094] polyol The composition according to the present invention comprises at least one polyol.

[0095] For the purposes of this invention, the term "polyol" should be understood to mean any organic molecule containing at least two free hydroxyl groups.

[0096] The polyol according to the present invention exists in liquid form at ambient temperature (20-25°C).

[0097] Suitable polyols for use in the present invention may be linear, branched, or cyclic saturated or unsaturated alkyl compounds having at least two -OH groups, particularly at least three -OH groups, and more particularly at least four -OH groups on the alkyl chain.

[0098] Polyols that are advantageously suitable for formulating the compositions according to the present invention are those containing 2 to 4 carbon atoms.

[0099] Advantageously, the polyol may be selected from C3-C4 alkanediols, glycerol, and mixtures thereof.

[0100] The term "C3-C4 alkanediol" is understood to mean any saturated straight or branched alkane containing a hydrocarbon chain with only a hydrogen atom, three or four carbon atoms, and two hydroxyl groups at different positions.

[0101] C3-C4 alkanediols can be selected from 2-methyl-1,3-propanediol (INCI name methylpropanediol), 1,2-propanediol (INCI name propylene glycol), 1,3-propanediol (INCI name propanediol), 1,2-butanediol (or 1,2-butylene glycol), 1,4-butanediol (or tetramethylene glycol), 2,3-butanediol (or 2,3-butylene glycol), or 1,3-butanediol (INCI name butylene glycol).

[0102] According to one preferred embodiment, the composition of the present invention comprises a mixture of C3-C4 alkanediols and glycerol.

[0103] According to a preferred embodiment of the present invention, the polyol is selected from propanediol, glycerol, and mixtures thereof.

[0104] According to one preferred embodiment of the present invention, the polyol is selected from a mixture of propanediol and glycerol.

[0105] The composition of the present invention preferably contains 0.1% to 25% by mass, particularly 1% to 15% by mass, and more specifically 1% to 10% by mass of the total mass of the composition, of the polyol.

[0106] Monoalcohol According to a preferred embodiment of the present invention, the composition according to the present invention also comprises ethanol, isopropanol, propanol or butanol, and mixtures thereof, more specifically ethanol, and at least one monoalcohol having 2 to 8 carbon atoms, particularly 2 to 6 carbon atoms, particularly 2 to 4 carbon atoms.

[0107] Preferably, a monoalcohol containing 2 to 8 carbon atoms is present in an amount of 2% to 10% of the total mass of the composition.

[0108] sugar alcohol According to a particular embodiment of the present invention, the composition according to the present invention further comprises at least one sugar alcohol.

[0109] The term "sugar alcohol" refers to sugars that contain only a hydroxyl functional group. These sugar alcohols differ from ketoses and aldoses, which contain ketone or aldehyde functional groups. Sugar alcohols are described in detail in the Kirk-Othmer Encyclopedia of Chemical Technology, John Wiley and Sons, "Sugar Alcohols" article, 2005.

[0110] Preferably, the sugar alcohol that can be used in the composition according to the present invention is of the general formula: [Chemical formula 4] HO-CH2-(CHOH) n -CH2-OH (In the formula, n is an integer in the range of 2 to 5.) It corresponds to.

[0111] Preferably, the sugar alcohols are selected from erythritol, sorbitol, treitol, ribitol, arabinitol, allitol, dulcitol, iditol, althritol, lactitol, maltitol, mannitol, xylitol, and mixtures of these compounds.

[0112] Particularly preferred is the sugar alcohol sorbitol (INCI name: sorbitol or hydrolyzed hydrogenated starch).

[0113] The composition according to the present invention preferably contains 1% to 15% by mass of sugar alcohol, more preferably 2% to 12% by mass, and even more preferably 4% to 10% by mass, based on the total mass of the composition.

[0114] Saturated and linear C7~C 14 Monoester of carboxylic acid and glycerol According to a specific embodiment of the present invention, the composition according to the present invention is saturated and linear C7-C 14 It further contains at least one monoester of a carboxylic acid and glycerol.

[0115] Saturated and linear C7-C7 compounds can be used in the compositions of the present invention. 14 Among monoesters of carboxylic acids and glycerol, - Products bearing the trade name Lexgard Natural GH70 (registered trademark) (Inolex Inc.), such as glyceryl heptanoate; - Caprylic (C8) glyceryl, including products bearing the product names AEC Caprylate Glyceryl (registered trademark) (A&E Connock Perfumery & Cosmetics); Capmul 708G (copyright) (Abitec Corporation); Cremercoor GC 8 (registered trademark) (IOI Oleo GmbH); Dermosoft GMCY (registered trademark) (Dr. Straetmans GmbH); DUB 8G (registered trademark) (Stearinerie Dubois Fils); Imwitor 308 (registered trademark) and Imwitor 988 (registered trademark) (IOI Oleo GmbH); Lexgard GMCY MB (registered trademark) (Inolex Inc.); Oristar GCC (Orient Stars LLC); Sunsoft 707 (registered trademark) and Sunsoft 700 P-2 (registered trademark) (Taiyo Kagaku Company Ltd.); 104528 Symlite G8 (registered trademark) (Symrise); etc. - Products containing the product names AEC Caprylic / Capric Glyceryl (A&E Connock Perfumery & Cosmetics Ltd); Cremercoor GC810 (IOI Oleo GmbH); Dub 810 G (Stearinerie Dubois Fils), etc., containing Caprylic (C8) / Capric (C8) 10 ) Glyceryl; - Products containing capric acid (C) such as Capmul MCM C-10 (registered trademark) (Abitec Corporation); Dermosoft GMC (registered trademark) (Dr. Straetmans GmbH); AEC Glyceryl Caprate (registered trademark) (A&E Connock Perfumery & Cosmetics); Lexgard GMC (registered trademark) (Inolex Inc.); Sunsoft 760 (Taiyo Kagaku Company Ltd). 10 ) Glyceryl; - Products containing lauric acid (C) such as AEC Glyceryl Laurate (registered trademark) (A&E Connock Perfumery & Cosmetics); Colonial Monolaurin (registered trademark) (Colonial Chemical Inc.); DUB LG (registered trademark) (Stearinerie Dubois Fils); Jeechem MLD (registered trademark) (Jeen International Corporation); Lauricidin (Med-Chem Labs Inc.); Monomuls 90-L 12 (BASF Corporation); Oristar GL (Orient Stars LLC); Pelemol GMLA (registered trademark) (Phoenix Chemical Inc.); Protachem MLD (registered trademark) (Protameen Chemicals); Sunsoft 750 (registered trademark) (Taiyo Kagaku Company Ltd); Ultrapure GML (registered trademark) (Ultra Chemical, Inc.) 12 ) Glyceryl; - Products containing myristic acid (C) such as AEC Glyceryl Myristate (registered trademark) (A&E Connock Perfumery & Cosmetics); Cithrol GMM (Croda Europe); DUB MG (Stearinerie Dubois Fils); Nikkol MGM (Nikko Chemicals Co. Ltd); Oristar GMA (Orient Stars LLC); Sunsoft 8002 (Taiyo Kagaku Company Ltd); 14 ) Glyceryl; and - A mixture of those.

[0116] According to a particular embodiment of the present invention, glyceryl caprylate is used.

[0117] The composition according to the present invention preferably contains 0.05% to 3% by mass of saturated and linear C7-C7 compounds based on the total mass of the composition. 14 Monoesters of carboxylic acids and glycerol, more preferably in amounts of 0.1% to 2% by mass, and even better, 0.2% to 1% by mass, of saturated and linear C7-C7 compounds. 14 It contains a monoester of a carboxylic acid and glycerol.

[0118] Powdered coloring agent According to a particular embodiment of the present invention, the composition comprises at least one powder coloring agent.

[0119] The powdered colorant can be selected from pigments, mother-of-pearl, and mixtures thereof.

[0120] The term "pigment" means white or colored inorganic or organic particles that are insoluble in aqueous media and are intended to color and / or make opaque the resulting composition and / or deposit.

[0121] According to certain embodiments, the pigment used in accordance with the present invention is selected from inorganic pigments.

[0122] The term "mineral pigment" is understood to mean any pigment that meets the definition in the chapter "Pigments, Inorganic" of Ullmann's Encyclopedia. Among the mineral pigments useful for the present invention, in addition to zirconium oxide or cerium oxide, are zinc oxide, iron oxide (black iron oxide, yellow iron oxide or red iron oxide) or chromium oxide, manganese violet, ultramarine blue, chromium hydroxide and ferric blue, titanium dioxide and metal powders (e.g., aluminum powder and copper powder). The following mineral pigments may also be used: Ta2O5, Ti3O5, Ti2O3, TiO, ZrO2 as a mixture with TiO2, ZrO2, Nb2O5, CeO2 or ZnS.

[0123] The diameter of pigments useful in relation to the present invention is generally greater than 100 nm, up to 10 μm, preferably in the range of 200 nm to 5 μm, and more preferably in the range of 300 nm to 1 μm.

[0124] According to a particular embodiment of the present invention, the pigment has a size characterized by a D

[50] in the range of greater than 100 nm, optionally up to 10 μm, preferably 200 nm to 5 μm, and more preferably 300 nm to 1 μm.

[0125] The size is measured by static light scattering using a commercially available Malvern MasterSizer 3000® particle size analyzer, which allows for the measurement of the entire particle size distribution over a wide range that can extend from 0.01 μm to 1000 μm. The data is processed based on the Mie scattering theory, which is best suited for particle size distributions in the submicron to several micron range; it allows for the measurement of the "effective" particle size. This theory is described in particular in the publication by Van de Hulst, HC, Light Scattering by Small Particles, Chapters 9 and 10, Wiley, New York, 1957.

[0126] D

[50] represents the maximum size that corresponds to 50% of the particle's volume.

[0127] In relation to the present invention, the inorganic pigment is more particularly iron oxide and / or titanium dioxide. As an example, more specifically, titanium dioxide and iron oxide coated with aluminum stearoyl glutamate, which is sold by Miyoshi Chemicals, Inc. under the trade code NAI®.

[0128] Mother-of-pearl can also be used as an inorganic pigment in the present invention.

[0129] The term "mother-of-pearl" should be understood to mean any form of colored particles, which may or may not be lustrous, produced or synthesized in particular within the exoskeletons of certain mollusks, and which exhibit color effects due to light interference.

[0130] Mother-of-pearl can be selected from pearlescent pigments, such as titanium mica coated with iron oxide, titanium mica coated with bismuth oxychloride, titanium mica coated with chromium oxide, titanium mica coated with organic dyes, and pearlescent pigments based on bismuth oxychloride. They may also be mica particles in which at least two continuous layers of metal oxides and / or organic colorants are superimposed on the surface of the mica particles.

[0131] According to certain embodiments, the pigment used in accordance with the present invention is selected from inorganic pigments.

[0132] Further examples of mother-of-pearl include natural mica coated with titanium dioxide, iron oxide, natural pigments, or bismuth oxychloride.

[0133] Mother-of-pearl may have colors or hues of yellow, pink, red, bronze, orange, brown, gold, and / or copper, more particularly.

[0134] Some pigments that can be used in accordance with the present invention may have optical effects different from simple conventional coloring effects, namely, unified and stabilized effects like those produced by conventional colorants, such as monochromatic pigments. For the purposes of the present invention, the term “stabilized” means that there is no influence of color variability in response to the angle of observation or temperature changes.

[0135] For example, the material can be selected from metallic hues, goniochromatic colorants, diffraction pigments, thermochromic agents, fluorescent whitening agents, and also fibers, particularly particles having interference fibers. Needless to say, these various materials can be combined to exhibit two effects simultaneously, and even novel effects according to the present invention.

[0136] According to one embodiment, composition (B) according to the present invention comprises at least one uncoated pigment.

[0137] According to another specific embodiment, composition (B) according to the present invention comprises at least one pigment coated with at least one lipophilic or hydrophobic compound.

[0138] This type of pigment is particularly advantageous. As long as they are treated with a hydrophobic compound, they exhibit a dominant affinity for the oily phase, which in turn can transport them.

[0139] The coating may also include at least one additional non-lipophilic compound.

[0140] For the purposes of the present invention, "coating" of a pigment according to the present invention generally refers to a whole or partial surface treatment of the pigment with a surface agent that is absorbed onto, adsorbed onto, or grafted onto the pigment.

[0141] Surface-treated pigments can be prepared according to surface treatment techniques having chemical, electrical, mechanochemical, or mechanical properties known to those skilled in the art. Commercially available products may also be used.

[0142] Surface treatment agents can be absorbed, adsorbed, or grafted onto the pigment surface through solvent evaporation, chemical reactions, and covalent bond formation.

[0143] In one modified form, the surface treatment consists of coating with a pigment.

[0144] The coating may amount to 0.1% to 20% by mass, particularly 0.5% to 5% by mass, of the total mass of the coated pigment.

[0145] The coating may be achieved, for example, by adsorption of the liquid surface agent onto the surface of solid particles by simply mixing the solid particles and the liquid surface agent while stirring and optionally heating them, prior to the incorporation of the particles into other ingredients of the makeup or care composition.

[0146] The coating may be achieved, for example, by a chemical reaction between the surface agent and the surface of solid pigment particles and the formation of covalent bonds between the surface agent and the particles. This method is described, in particular, in U.S. Patent No. 4,578,266.

[0147] Chemical surface treatment may involve diluting a surface agent in a volatile solvent, dispersing a pigment in this mixture, and then slowly evaporating the volatile solvent, resulting in the surface agent being deposited on the surface of the pigment.

[0148] If the pigment includes an oil-lipid or hydrophobic coating, the latter is preferably present in the fatty phase of the composition according to the present invention.

[0149] According to a particular embodiment of the present invention, a pigment may be coated with at least one compound selected from silicone-based surface treatment agents; fluorine-based surface treatment agents; fluorosilicone-based surface treatment agents; metallic soaps; N-acyl amino acids or their salts; lecithin and its derivatives; isopropyltriisostearyl titanate; isostearyl sebacate; natural plant-based or animal-based waxes; polar synthetic waxes; fatty esters; phospholipids; and mixtures thereof, in accordance with the present invention.

[0150] According to one particular embodiment of the present invention, the pigment may be coated with a hydrophilic compound.

[0151] According to one particular embodiment, the colorant is a synthetic, natural, or naturally derived organic pigment.

[0152] The term "organic pigment" refers to any pigment that meets the definition in the chapter on organic pigments in Ullmann's encyclopedia. Organic pigments may be selected from, among others, nitroso, nitro, azo, xanthene, quinoline, anthraquinone, phthalocyanine, metal complex type, isoindolinone, isoindoline, quinacridone, perinone, perylene, diketopyrrolopyrrole, thioindigo, dioxazine, triphenylmethane, or quinophthalone compounds.

[0153] Organic pigments include, for example, carmine, carbon black, aniline black, melanin, azo yellow, quinacridone, phthalocyanine blue, sorghum red, blue pigments classified in the Color Index by reference symbols CI 42090, 69800, 69825, 73000, 74100 and 74160, yellow pigments classified in the Color Index by reference symbols CI 11680, 11710, 15985, 19140, 20040, 21100, 21108, 47000 and 47005, green pigments classified in the Color Index by reference symbols CI 61565, 61570 and 74260, orange pigments classified in the Color Index by reference symbols CI 11725, 15510, 45370 and 71105, and other pigments classified in the Color Index by reference symbols CI Red pigments classified as 12085, 12120, 12370, 12420, 12490, 14700, 15525, 15580, 15620, 15630, 15800, 15850, 15865, 15880, 17200, 26100, 45380, 45410, 58000, 73360, 73915 and 75470 may be selected, as well as pigments obtained by oxidative polymerization of indole or phenol derivatives as described in French Patent No. 2679771.

[0154] The pigments may also be in the form of composite pigments as described in European Patent No. 1184426. These composite pigments may, in particular, consist of particles comprising an inorganic core at least partially coated with an organic pigment, and at least one binder for fixing the organic pigment to the inorganic core.

[0155] Pigments can be lakes. The term "lake" refers to an insoluble dye adsorbed onto insoluble particles, and the resulting aggregate remains insoluble during use.

[0156] The mineral substrate on which the dye is adsorbed is, for example, alumina, silica, sodium calcium borosilicate, or aluminum calcium borosilicate and aluminum.

[0157] Among organic dyes, cochineal carmine is one example. Mention may also be made of products known by the following names: D&C Red 21 (CI 45 380), D&C Orange 5 (CI 45 370), D&C Red 27 (CI 45 410), D&C Orange 10 (CI 45 425), D&C Red 3 (CI 45 430), D&C Red 4 (CI 15). 510), D&C Red 33(CI 17 200), D&C Yellow 5(CI 19 140), D&C Yellow 6(CI 15 985), D&C Green 5(CI 61 570), D&C Yellow 10(CI 77 002), D&C Green 3(CI 42 053), D&C Blue 1(CI) 42 090).

[0158] An example of a rake that can be mentioned is the product known as D&C Red 7 (CI 15 850:1).

[0159] Cosmetic composition Cosmetic composition The present invention also relates to cosmetic compositions comprising the compositions defined above in a physiologically acceptable medium.

[0160] A physiologically acceptable medium is typically suitable not only for the properties of the support to which the composition should be applied, but also for the appearance in which the composition should be packaged.

[0161] The compositions according to the present invention may further contain additives commonly used in care products and / or makeup products, such as: - Vitamins, such as activators like vitamins A, E, C, or B3; - Sunscreen; - Additional coloring agents; - Filler; - Lipophilic gelling agent; - Air freshener; - Preservatives; - These mixtures.

[0162] For those skilled in the art, adjusting the properties and amounts of additives present in the composition according to the present invention so that the cosmetic properties required for the composition are not affected by the additives is merely a routine task.

[0163] Additional colorants The composition according to the present invention may preferably further contain at least one additional water-soluble or lipid-soluble colorant in a proportion of at least 0.01% by mass of the total mass of the composition.

[0164] For obvious reasons, this quantity is highly variable with respect to the intensity of the desired color effect and the intensity of the color given by the colorant under consideration, and its adjustment is clearly within the capabilities of those skilled in the art.

[0165] Additional colorants suitable for the present invention may be lipid-soluble.

[0166] For the purposes of this invention, the term "oil-soluble colorant" is intended to mean any natural or synthetic compound, usually an organic substance, that is soluble in an oily phase or in a solvent that is miscible with fatty substances and is capable of imparting color.

[0167] In particular, suitable lipid-soluble dyes for the present invention include, for example, synthetic or natural lipid-soluble color dyes such as DC Red 17, DC Red 21, DC Red 27, DC Green 6, DC Yellow 11, DC Violet 2, DC Orange 5, Sudan Red, carotene (β-carotene, lycopene), xanthophyll (capsanthine, capsorbin, lutein), palm oil, Sudan brown, quinoline yellow, annatto, or curcumin.

[0168] Additional colorants suitable for the present invention may be water-soluble.

[0169] For the purposes of this invention, the term "water-soluble colorant" means any natural or synthetic, generally organic compound that is soluble in an aqueous phase or a water-miscible solvent and capable of imparting color.

[0170] Suitable water-soluble dyes for use in the present invention include, in particular, synthetic or natural water-soluble dyes such as FDC Red 4, DC Red 6, DC Red 22, DC Red 28, DC Red 30, DC Red 33, DC Orange 4, DC Yellow 5, DC Yellow 6, DC Yellow 8, FDC Green 3, DC Green 5, FDC Blue 1, betanin (beet root), carmine, copper chlorophyllin, methylene blue, anthocyanins (enocyanin, black carrot, hibiscus, and elder), caramel, and riboflavin.

[0171] Filler The compositions according to the present invention may, in particular, include at least one filler that enables the imparting to it additional properties of improved stability, abrasion resistance, coverage, and / or mattiness.

[0172] The term “filler” should be understood to mean colorless or white solid particles of any shape that are provided in an insoluble form and dispersed in the medium of the composition. These mineral or organic particles enable the composition to impart viscosity or rigidity and / or softness and uniformity in the makeup.

[0173] The filler may be an inorganic or organic substance.

[0174] Preferably, these will be selected from natural fillers or fillers derived from nature.

[0175] The filler used in the composition according to the present invention may be in layered, spherical, spherical or fibrous form, or any other form intermediate between these defined forms.

[0176] The fillers according to the present invention may or may not be surface-coated, and in particular, they may be surface-treated with silicone, amino acids, fluorinated derivatives, or any other substance that enhances the dispersion and compatibility of the fillers in the composition.

[0177] Examples of inorganic fillers include talc, natural or synthetic mica, such as synthetic fluorophlogopite, silica, hollow silica microspheres, kaolin, calcium carbonate, magnesium carbonate, hydroxyapatite, boron nitride, glass or ceramic microcapsules, or silica and titanium dioxide composites, such as the TSG® series sold by Nippon Sheet Glass Co., Ltd.

[0178] According to one particular embodiment, an inorganic filler selected from natural or synthetic mica, calcium carbonate, and mixtures thereof is used.

[0179] Examples of organic fillers include particulate natural waxes; metal soaps derived from organic carboxylic acids having 8 to 22 carbon atoms, preferably 12 to 18 carbon atoms, such as zinc, magnesium, or lithium stearate, zinc laurate, or magnesium myristate; lauroyl lysine; or cellulose powder, such as those sold by Daito Chemical Industries, Ltd. under the Cellulobeads® range.

[0180] Preferably, the filler is present in the composition in an amount of 0.5% to 20% by mass, preferably 1% to 15% by mass, and more specifically 3% to 10% by mass, relative to the total mass of the composition.

[0181] Lipid-soluble gelling agent Depending on the viscosity of the composition to be obtained, one or more hydrophilic gelling agents, i.e., those that are soluble or dispersible in the oily phase, may be incorporated into the composition of the present invention.

[0182] Preferably, the lipophilic gelling agent will be selected from natural gelling agents or gelling agents derived from nature.

[0183] For example, lipophilic gelling agents include modified clays such as modified magnesium silicate (Bentone Gel VS38® from Rheox), and hectorite modified with distearyldimethylammonium chloride (CTFA name: disteardimonium hectorite), such as the product sold by Rheox under the name "Bentone 38 CE®".

[0184] According to a particularly preferred embodiment, the composition of the present invention in the form of a water-in-oil emulsion is particularly physiologically acceptable in a medium. a) A continuous oily phase, at least, (i) A mixture of undecane and tridecane; and (ii) Macadamia oil and / or olive oil A continuous oily phase containing; b) i) Tannic acid; and ii) Pullulan an aqueous phase dispersed in the oily phase containing; c) Surfactants, polyglyceryl-6 polyricinoleate and; d) with at least 1,3-propanediol; e) at least glycerol and Includes.

[0185] According to a particular embodiment, the composition further comprises f) at least one sugar alcohol, more specifically sorbitol.

[0186] According to a particular embodiment, the composition is g) saturated and linear C7-C 14 The material further comprises at least one monoester of a carboxylic acid and glycerol, more specifically glyceryl caprylate.

[0187] According to a particular embodiment, the composition further comprises h) at least one pigment selected from iron oxide, titanium dioxide and mixtures thereof, or iron oxide coated with at least one lipophilic or hydrophobic compound, titanium dioxide coated with at least one lipophilic or hydrophobic compound and mixtures thereof.

[0188] According to a particular embodiment, the composition further comprises i) at least one inorganic filler, more specifically an inorganic filler selected from natural or synthetic mica, calcium carbonate and mixtures thereof.

[0189] According to a particular embodiment, the composition further comprises j) at least one hydrophilic gelling agent and / or at least one lipophilic gelling agent that is natural or of natural origin, at least one lipophilic gelling agent more preferably selected from modified clays, and more specifically hectorite (INCI name: disteardimonium hectorite) modified with distearyldimethylammonium chloride, such as the product marketed by Rheox under the name "Bentone 38 CE®" or the product "Bentone 38VCG" from Elementis.

[0190] The present invention also relates to cosmetic compositions comprising the compositions defined above in a physiologically acceptable medium.

[0191] A physiologically acceptable medium is typically suitable not only for the properties of the support to which the composition should be applied, but also for the appearance in which the composition should be packaged.

[0192] The compositions according to the present invention may also contain additives commonly used in care and / or makeup products, such as activators including vitamins, e.g., vitamins A, E, C, B3, sunscreens, fillers, antioxidants, chelating agents, fragrances, neutralizing agents, preservatives, and mixtures thereof.

[0193] For those skilled in the art, adjusting the properties and amounts of additives present in the composition according to the present invention so that the cosmetic properties required for the composition are not affected by the additives is merely a routine task.

[0194] According to one embodiment, the composition of the present invention can be advantageously provided in the form of a composition for caring for skin, more particularly body or facial skin, and especially facial skin.

[0195] According to another embodiment, the compositions of the present invention can be advantageously provided in the form of keratinous substances, particularly compositions for makeup of the body or face, especially the skin of the face.

[0196] Therefore, according to a subordinate aspect of this embodiment, the composition of the present invention can be advantageously provided in the form of a base composition for makeup.

[0197] The composition of the present invention can, advantageously, be provided in the form of a foundation.

[0198] According to another sub-embodiment of this embodiment, the composition of the present invention can be advantageously provided in the form of a composition for applying makeup to the skin and, in particular, the face. Thus, it may be an eyeshadow or a face powder.

[0199] This type of composition is prepared in accordance with the general knowledge of those skilled in the art.

[0200] Packaging and applicators The composition according to the present invention may be packaged in a container that defines at least one compartment containing the composition, and the container is closed by a closing member.

[0201] The container can be any suitable form. It can be, in particular, a bottle, tube, jar, or case.

[0202] The closing member may take the form of a removable stopper, lid, or cover, and may particularly include a body fixed to the container and a cap connected to the body. It may also take the form of a member for selectively closing the container, particularly a pump, valve, or flap valve.

[0203] In particular, an applicator in the form of a fine brush may be combined with a container, for example, as described in French Patent Application Publication No. 2722380. The applicator may be in the form of a block of foam or elastomer. The applicator may be in an unrestricted state (sponge), for example, as described in U.S. Patent No. 5,492,426, or it may be firmly fixed to a rod supported by a closing member. The applicator may be firmly fixed to a container, for example, as described in French Patent Application Publication No. 2761,959.

[0204] The product may be contained directly or indirectly in the container.

[0205] The closing member can be joined to the container by screw fastening. Alternatively, the joining between the closing member and the container may be done by click-fastening or gripping, particularly via a bayonet mechanism, in addition to screw fastening. The term "click-fastening" means any system in which a portion, particularly the closing member, undergoes elastic deformation, causing the crossing of a bead or cord of material, followed by the return of the bead or cord after the crossing to the aforementioned portion that is not elastically constrained.

[0206] The container may be made of a thermoplastic material, at least partially. Examples of thermoplastic materials that can be listed include polypropylene and polyethylene.

[0207] The container may have rigid or deformable walls, particularly in the form of a tube or tube bottle.

[0208] The container may include means intended to bring about or facilitate the distribution of the composition. For example, the container may have deformable walls that allow the composition to flow out in response to excess pressure within the container, which is brought about by elastic (or inelastic) compression of the container walls.

[0209] The container may be equipped with a drainer positioned near the opening of the container. Such a drainer allows for wiping the applicator and, if applicable, a rod to which the applicator can be securely attached. Such a drainer is described, for example, in French Patent Application Publication No. 2792618.

[0210] Throughout the description, including the claims, the term “including” should be understood to be synonymous with “including at least one” unless otherwise specified.

[0211] The expressions "between... and..." and "within the range of..." should be understood to mean that a limit point is included, unless otherwise specified.

[0212] The present invention is illustrated in more detail by the following examples and drawings. Unless otherwise specified, quantities are expressed as mass percentages. [Examples]

[0213] Example 1 and Counterexample 1 Composition 1 and counterexample 1, which falls outside the scope of the invention, were prepared according to the present invention.

[0214] [Table 1]

[0215] Protocol for composition preparation The composition of the present invention was prepared by preparing a white base that does not contain pigment, and then adding a pigment preparation thereto in a second step.

[0216] Preparation of a white base Oily phase A1 was introduced into the main beaker, which was placed on a 60°C hot plate, while stirring with a Moritz-type homogenizer.

[0217] Once the temperature reached 60°C, hectorite A2 was introduced while stirring for 15 minutes until a homogeneous mixture was obtained.

[0218] The mixture was then cooled to ambient temperature, and after continuing to stir, phase A3 was added while stirring for 5 minutes. Finally, phase A4 was added while stirring for 10 minutes.

[0219] Pullulan B2 was added to aqueous phase B1, preheated to 95°C, for 20 minutes while stirring using a Rayneri homogenizer. Then, phase B3 was added while stirring for 10 minutes, and phase B4 was added while stirring for 20 minutes. Finally, phase B5 was added while stirring for 5 minutes.

[0220] Emulsion formed at ambient temperature: The aqueous phase was poured into the fatty phase, placed in an ice bath, and the stirring speed was gradually increased until a vortex formed. The mixture was then prepared using a Mortiz homogenizer.

[0221] Stirring was maintained for 10 minutes. Then, alcohol (phase C) was introduced, and the mixture was continued to stir for 5 minutes.

[0222] White-based coloring The white base was placed in a beaker and then placed in an ice bath. Phase D was then slowly added while stirring. Stirring was continued for 20 minutes while maintaining a vortex. The mixture was then prepared using a Rayneri homogenizer.

[0223] Wear characteristics test protocol These wear characteristics were characterized by a transfer index determined using friction tests conducted in dry, sebum-containing, and water-containing conditions, as described later.

[0224] A support (40 mm × 40 mm square) consisting of a layer of neoprene foam with one side adhesive (sold by Joint Technique Lyonnais Ind. under the name RE70X40212B) was prepared. An adhesive crown with an inner diameter of 24 mm and a thickness of approximately 250 μm was applied to the non-adhesive surface of the support. After applying the composition to the inside of the crown, it was leveled on a glass slide to obtain a deposit of the composition with a thickness of approximately 250 μm, and then the support was dried in an oven at 37°C for 24 hours.

[0225] Next, the crown was removed, and 10 μl of artificial sebum was dropped into the center of the support to measure the frictional resistance in the presence of sebum: The artificial sebum had the following composition:

[0226] [Table 2]

[0227] All supports were dried at ambient temperature for 45 minutes.

[0228] Subsequently, this support was bonded via the adhesive surface onto a 35mm x 35mm square base weight, 14cm high and weighing approximately 1kg. This paper sheet had a strip 3.5cm wide and 20.75cm long, with five boxes 4.15cm long along the longitudinal direction of the strip. This sheet was placed on a spreading bench (BYK-Drive Auto Applicator® from BYK Instruments) connected to a vacuum pump (DOA-P504-BN® from Gast Manufacturing Co Ltd). The support bonded to the weight was placed on the first box of the strip, the spreader was powered on, and the weight with the support was moved linearly and evenly along the entire length of the strip. The moving speed of the weight with the support was approximately 2.5cm / s. The trajectory of the product deposited on the paper strip was observed and then marked from 0 to 5. 0 corresponds to no movement of the composition, 3 to partial movement, and 5 to significant movement. The composition remaining on the support was also observed to determine if it had changed due to friction.

[0229] result

[0230] [Table 3]

[0231] In contrast to Counterexample 1, which showed a high mobility index and altered deposits in the presence of sebum, the composition of Example 1 showed a mobility index of 0, indicating that the deposits remained unchanged. Furthermore, Example 1 exhibited superior abrasion properties compared to Counterexample 1, both in a dry state and in the presence of sebum. Therefore, it was suggested that the presence of polyphenol X combined with nonionic polysaccharide Y enhances the abrasion properties of deposits obtained using the composition.

Claims

1. A composition for caring for and / or makeup-applying keratin substances, a) i) at least one vegetable oil; and ii) At least one volatile alkane A continuous oily phase containing; b) i) At least one polyphenol X comprising at least two different phenol groups, in an amount of 0.8 to 30.0% by mass relative to the total mass of the composition. ii) at least one nonionic polysaccharide Y, and iii) At least one type of polyol A combination of: at least one aqueous phase dispersed in an oily phase; c) At least one polyglycerol-containing nonionic surfactant having an HLB of 8 or less A composition in the form of a water-in-oil emulsion containing the following:

2. The composition according to claim 1, which does not contain silicone.

3. The composition according to claim 1, wherein the oily phase is contained in an amount that varies from 5% to 95% by mass relative to the total mass of the composition.

4. The composition according to claim 1, wherein the vegetable oil is a non-volatile vegetable oil selected from macadamia oil, olive oil, and mixtures thereof.

5. The composition according to claim 1, comprising a non-volatile vegetable oil in an amount ranging from 0.5% by mass to 50% by mass based on the total mass of the composition.

6. The composition according to claim 1, wherein the volatile alkane is selected from branched alkanes.

7. The volatile alkane is a volatile linear C ６ ~C １４ The composition according to claim 1, selected from alkanes.

8. The volatile linear C ６ ~C １４ Alkanes are volatile linear C9-12 alkanes, INCI name: C9-12 alkanes ９ ~C １２ The composition according to claim 7, which is a mixture of alkanes.

9. The volatile linear C ６ -C １４ alkane is a mixture of n-undecane (C １１ ) and n-tridecane (C １３ ), the composition according to claim 7.

10. The composition according to claim 1, wherein the volatile alkane is present in a concentration of 0.5% to 90% by mass relative to the total mass of the composition.

11. The composition according to claim 1, wherein the oily phase also comprises at least one additional non-volatile hydrocarbon-based oil.

12. The composition according to claim 11, wherein the additional non-volatile hydrocarbon-based oil is present in a concentration of 50% by mass or less relative to the total mass of the composition.

13. The composition according to claim 1, wherein the mass ratio of the total amount of non-volatile vegetable oil to the total amount of volatile alkanes varies from 1 / 40 to 1 / 1.

14. The composition according to claim 1, wherein the mass ratio of the total amount of non-volatile vegetable oil and additional non-volatile hydrocarbon-based oil to the total amount of volatile alkanes varies from 1 / 8 to 1 / 1.

15. The composition according to claim 1, wherein the polyphenol X is selected from catechin tannins.

16. The composition according to claim 1, wherein the polyphenol X is tannic acid.

17. The composition according to claim 1, wherein the composition contains water in an amount ranging from 5% by mass to 80% by mass based on the total mass of the composition.

18. The composition according to claim 1, wherein the polyphenol X is present in an amount of 1.0% by mass or more relative to the total mass of the composition.

19. The composition according to claim 1, wherein the polyphenol X is present in an amount ranging from 2.0% to 30% of the total mass of the composition.

20. The composition according to claim 1, wherein the nonionic polysaccharide Y is selected from pullulan; cellulose; modified guar gum; and mixtures thereof.

21. The composition according to claim 1, wherein the nonionic polysaccharide Y is unmodified pullulan.

22. The polyglycerol-containing nonionic surfactant with HLB ≤ 8, - Esters of isostearic acid with polyglycerol containing 2 to 10 moles of glycerol units; - Esters of stearic acid and polyglycerol containing 2 or 3 moles of glycerol units; - Esters of oleic acid and polyglycerol containing 2-3 moles of glycerol units; - Polyglyceryl polyricinoleate containing 3 to 6 moles of glycerol units; - Those mixtures A composition according to claim 1, selected from the following.

23. The composition according to claim 1, wherein the polyglycerol-containing nonionic surfactant having an HLB of ≤ 8 is selected from polyglyceryl polyricinolates containing 3 to 6 moles of glycerol units.

24. The composition according to claim 1, comprising 2% to 10% by mass of a polyglycerol-containing nonionic surfactant with an HLB of ≤ 8, based on the total mass of the composition.

25. The composition according to claim 1, wherein the molar ratio of the reactive hydroxyl (OH) group of polyphenol X to the reactive hydroxyl group of the nonionic polysaccharide Y that can form a hydrogen bond with the hydroxyl group is in the range of 1 / 3 to 20.

26. The aforementioned polyol is C ３ ~C ４ The composition according to claim 1, selected from alkanediols, glycerols, and mixtures thereof.

27. The composition according to claim 1, wherein the polyol is a mixture of propanediol and glycerol.

28. The composition according to claim 1, comprising a total amount of polyols in an amount of 0.1% to 25% by mass relative to the total mass of the composition.

29. The composition according to claim 1, further comprising at least one sugar alcohol.

30. Saturated and linear C ７ ~C １４ The composition according to claim 1, further comprising at least one monoester of a carboxylic acid and glycerol.

31. The composition according to claim 1, comprising at least one monoalcohol containing 2 to 8 carbon atoms.

32. The composition according to claim 1, further comprising at least one powder coloring agent.

33. The composition according to claim 1, further comprising at least one filler.

34. The composition according to claim 1, further comprising at least one lipophilic gelling agent.

35. A cosmetic method for coating a keratinous substance, comprising the step of applying at least one of the compositions defined in any one of claims 1 to 34 to the keratinous substance.

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