Composition for making up keratin materials
A composition with alkylcellulose, high viscosity esters, and pasty fatty compounds addresses the challenge of achieving long-lasting shine and good affinity in makeup products, particularly for lips.
Patent Information
- Authority / Receiving Office
- WO · WO
- Patent Type
- Applications
- Current Assignee / Owner
- LOREAL SA
- Filing Date
- 2024-12-09
- Publication Date
- 2026-06-18
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Figure PCTCN2024137759-FTAPPB-I100001 
Figure PCTCN2024137759-FTAPPB-I100002 
Figure PCTCN2024137759-FTAPPB-I100003
Abstract
Description
COMPOSITION FOR MAKING UP KERATIN MATERIALSTECHNICAL FIELD
[0001] The present invention relates to a composition. Preferably, the present invention relates to a composition for making up keratin materials. The present invention also relates to a process for making up keratin materials.BACKGROUND ART
[0002] Compositions for making up the skin and / or the lips are produced to satisfy the need of making up of the skin and / or the lips. These compositions can be formulated in a variety of forms and can bring a variety of makeup finishes like matte, high intense color, satin, glow and shine, and even comprise pearls to be pearlescent.
[0003] Currently, the makeup products which can bring shiny finish are particularly popular in many countries, especially for lip products, such as lipstick, lip gloss, and lip oil. Many artisans are devoted to developing oil-based products with high shine effect and good affinity. However, for the current makeup products, there are challenges to simultaneously achieve a long lasting shine effect and a good affinity effect in one formulation.
[0004] Therefore, there is a need for a composition, preferably for making up keratin materials, e.g., as a lip product, which can simultaneously achieve a long lasting shine effect and a good affinity effect.SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION
[0005] The inventors have found that such a need can be achieved by the composition according to the present invention.
[0006] According to a first aspect, the present invention provides a composition, preferably for making up keratin materials, comprising:
[0007] (a) at least one alkylcellulose;
[0008] (b) at least one high viscosity ester chosen from monoesters and polyesters of sugars; and
[0009] (c) at least one first pasty fatty compound chosen from polyesters obtained from at least one dimer acid, triglycerides of at least one C8-C30 fatty acid, and mixtures thereof.
[0010] The composition according to the present invention can simultaneously achieve a long lasting shine effect and a good affinity effect.
[0011] According to a second aspect, the present invention provides a process for making up keratin materials, preferably the lips, comprising: applying the composition according to the first aspect onto the keratin materials.
[0012] Other subjects and characteristics, aspects and advantages of the present invention will emerge even more clearly on reading the detailed description and the examples that follow.DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION
[0013] In that which follows and unless otherwise indicated, the limits of a range of values are included within this range, in particular in the expressions “of between” and “ranging from... to... ” .
[0014] The articles “a” and “an” , as used herein, mean one or more when applied to any feature in embodiments of the present invention described in the specification and claims. The use of “a” and “an” does not limit the meaning to a single feature unless such a limit is specifically stated. Moreover, the expression “at least one” used in the present description is equivalent to the expression “one or more” .
[0015] Throughout the present application, the expression “comprising” is to be interpreted as encompassing all specifically mentioned features as well optional, additional, unspecified ones. As used herein, the use of the term “comprising” also discloses the embodiment wherein no material features or even no features other than the specifically mentioned features are present (such as “consisting essentially of” and “consisting of” ) . In the case of “consisting essentially of” , any additional compositions, materials, and / or components that materially affect the basic and novel characteristics are excluded from such an embodiment, but any compositions, materials and / or components that do not materially affect the basic and novel characteristics can be included in the embodiment.
[0016] Unless otherwise specified, all numerical values expressing amount of ingredients and the like used in the description and claims are to be understood as being modified by the term “about” . Accordingly, unless indicated to the contrary, the numerical values and parameters described herein are approximate values which are capable of being changed according to the desired performance obtained as required. The term “about” denoting a certain value is intended to denote a range within±5%of the value, e.g., ±3%, ±2%, ± 1%, and±0.5%of the value.
[0017] As used herein, the term “keratin material (s) ” refers to the skin and the lip. By “skin” , it includes all the body skins, including the scalp. Preferably, the keratin material (s) means the lip.
[0018] Alkylcelluloses
[0019] The composition according to the present invention comprises at least one alkylcellulose.
[0020] As used herein, the term "alkyl" means a saturated hydrocarbon group formed by removing a hydrogen atom from an alkane molecule and containing only carbon and hydrogen atoms.
[0021] Preferably, the alkyl portion of the alkylcellulose contains two to eight carbon atoms, and preferably two to four carbon atoms. More preferably, the alkylcellulose is chosen from ethylcelluloses, propylcelluloses, and mixtures thereof. Even more preferably, the alkylcellulose is an ethylcellulose.
[0022] According to the present invention, the alkylcellulose is an alkyl ether of cellulose, preferably a C2-C8 alkyl ether of cellulose, more preferably a C2-C4 alkyl ether of cellulose, and even more preferably ethyl ether of cellulose in the case of ethylcellulose, comprising a chain consisting ofβ-anhydroglucose units linked to one another by acetal bonds. Each anhydroglucose unit has three replaceable hydroxyl groups, all or some of these hydroxyl groups being capable of reacting according to the following reaction: RONa+R'Cl→ROR'+NaCl,
[0023] wherein R represents a cellulose radical and R' represents an alkyl group, preferably a C2-C4 alkyl group, and more preferably C2H5.
[0024] The alkylcellulose used in the composition according to the invention may be in powder form.
[0025] As examples of alkylcellulose polymers that may be used in the composition according to this invention, mention may be made of the products sold by the Hercules, Inc. company (Wilmington, Del. ) , under the name
[0026] The products are referenced according to four categories (type K, N, T or X) according to the ethoxy group content, as shown in table 1 below.
[0027] Table 1
[0028] The different ethylcellulose polymers are also specified with regard to the measured viscosity of a 5%by weight solution of ethylcellulose in a toluene: ethanol mixture (80: 20) . For example, the product "Aqualon K100 Ethylcellulose" refers to the ethylcellulose polymer of type K, i.e. comprising 45 to 47.2%ethoxy groups (or a degree of substitution of ethoxy groups per anhydroglucose unit ranging from 2.22 to 2.41) , and having, at 5%by weight in a toluene: ethanol mixture (80: 20) , an average viscosity of 100 mPa·s.
[0029] The products of categories N, T, X are also referenced according to their viscosity at 5%by weight in a toluene: ethanol mixture (80: 20) at 25℃ (the measurements being performed according to the ASTM D914 method) , as shown in table 2 below.
[0030] Table 2
[0031] Preferably, the alkylcellulose used in a composition according to the invention is an ethylcellulose polymer comprising a degree of substitution of ethoxy groups per anhydroglucose unit ranging from 2.46 to 2.73, and preferably from 2.46 to 2.57.
[0032] Preferably, the ethylcellulose used in the composition according to the invention is an ethylcellulose polymer having a viscosity at 5%by weight in a toluene: ethanol mixture (80: 20) at 25℃ of between 3 and 350 mPa·s, preferably between 3 and 105 mPa·s, more preferably between 3 and 24 mPa·s, even more preferably between 3 and 11 mPa·s, and still more preferably between 5.6 and 8 mPa·s.
[0033] Thus, the ethylcelluloses of type N or T are preferred, preferably type N, sold by the Aqualon company.
[0034] More preferably, the ethylcellulose used in a composition according to the invention is the product sold by Ashland under the name "Aqualon EC N7 Pharm" , which has a viscosity at 5%by weight in a toluene: ethanol mixture (80: 20) at 25℃ of between 6 and 8 mPa·s.
[0035] Advantageously, the alkylcellulose is present in an amount ranging from 0.1 wt. %to 15 wt. %, preferably from 0.5 wt. %to 10 wt. %, and more preferably 1 wt. %to 5 wt. %, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0036] High viscosity esters
[0037] The composition according to the present invention comprises at least one high viscosity ester chosen from monoesters and polyesters of sugars.
[0038] As used herein, the term “high viscosity ester” means an ester having a viscosity of at least 10 000 cps at 30 ℃.
[0039] Preferably, the high viscosity ester according to the present invention has a viscosity ranging from 20 000 cps to 500 000 cps at 30 ℃, preferably from 30 000 cps to 300 000 cps at 30 ℃, and more preferably from 50 000 cps to 200 000 cps at 30 ℃.
[0040] As used herein, the term "sugar" means an aldehyde and / or ketone having two or more hydroxyl groups or an organic compound which can be hydrolyzed to generate an aldehyde and / or ketone having two or more hydroxyl groups. These esters are derived from hydroxyl groups of a sugar and one or more carboxylic acid moieties. Depending on the constituent acid and sugar, these esters can be in either liquid or solid form at room temperature.
[0041] Suitable liquid esters include, but are not limited to: glucose tetraoleate, glucose tetralinoleate, mannose tetralinoleate, galactose tetraoleate, arabinose tetralinoleate, xylose tetralinoleate, galactose pentaoleate, sorbitol tetraoleate, sorbitol hexalinoleate, xylitol pentaoleate, sucrose tetraoleate, sucrose pentaoletate, sucrose hexaoleate, sucrose hepatoleate, sucrose octaoleate, and mixtures thereof.
[0042] Suitable solid esters include, but are not limited to: sorbitol hexaester in which the carboxylic acid ester moieties are palmitoleate and arachidate in a 1: 2 molar ratio; the octaester of raffinose in which the carboxylic acid ester moieties are linoleate and behenate in a 1: 3 molar ratio; the octaester of sucrose wherein the carboxylic acid ester moieties are oleate and behenate in a 2: 6 molar ratio; and the octaester of sucrose wherein the carboxylic acid ester moieties are laurate, linoleate and behenate in a 1: 3: 4 molar ratio.
[0043] In one embodiment, the high viscosity ester is a sucrose polyester in which the fatty acid ester moieties are C18 mono-and / or di-unsaturates and behenate, in a molar ratio of C18 mono-and / or di-unsaturates: behenate of 1: 7 to 3: 5. In another embodiment, the sugar polyester is the octaester of sucrose in which there are about 7 behenic fatty acid moieties and about 1 oleic acid moiety in the molecule.
[0044] Preferably, the high viscosity ester is chosen from C1-C30 monoesters and polyesters of sugars. More preferably, the high viscosity ester is chosen from C1-C18 polyesters of sugars. Still more preferably, the high viscosity ester is chosen from C2-C6 carboxylic acid esters of sucrose. Even more preferably, the high viscosity ester is chosen from mixed esters of acetic acid, isobutyric acid and of sucrose, e.g., sucrose diacetate hexakis (2-methylpropanoate) , such as the product sold under the name Sustane SAIB Food Grade Kosher by the company Eastman Chemical (INCI name: sucrose acetate isobutyrate) , which has a viscosity of about 100000 cps at 30℃ and a refractive index of about 1.5 at 20℃.
[0045] Advantageously, the high viscosity ester is present in an amount ranging from 0.01 wt. %to 15 wt. %, preferably from 0.1 wt. %to 8 wt. %, and more preferably 0.5 wt. %to 5 wt. %, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0046] Pasty fatty compounds
[0047] The composition according to the invention comprises at least one first pasty fatty compound chosen from polyesters obtained from at least one dimer acid, triglycerides of at least one C8-C30 fatty acid, and mixtures thereof.
[0048] According to the present invention, the term "pasty fatty compound" means a lipophilic fatty compound which undergoes a reversible solid / liquid change of state, comprising at a temperature of 25℃ and at atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg) , a liquid fraction and a solid fraction.
[0049] The measuring protocol for determining the melting point of the pasty fatty compound is shown as follows:
[0050] A sample of 5 mg of pasty fatty compound placed in a crucible is subjected to a first temperature rise passing from-20℃ to 100℃, at a heating rate of 10℃ / minute, it is then cooled from 100℃ to-20℃ at a cooling rate of 10℃ / minute and it is finally subjected to a second temperature rise passing from-20℃ to 100℃ at a heating rate of 5℃ / minute.
[0051] The melting point of the pasty fatty compound is the value of the temperature corresponding to the top of the peak on the curve representing the variation in the difference in power absorbed as a function of the temperature.
[0052] It should be noted that the liquid fraction by weight of the pasty fatty compound at room temperature is equal to the ratio of the heat of fusion consumed at room temperature to the heat of fusion of the pasty fatty compound.
[0053] The heat of fusion of the pasty fatty compound is the heat consumed by said compound in order to pass from the solid state to the liquid state. The pasty fatty compound is said to be in the solid state when all of its mass is in crystalline solid form. The pasty fatty compound is said to be in the liquid state when all of its mass is in liquid form.
[0054] The heat of fusion of the pasty fatty compound is the amount of energy required to make the pasty fatty compound change from the solid state to the liquid state. It is expressed in J / g. The heat of fusion of the pasty fatty compound is equal to the area under the curve of the thermogram obtained.
[0055] Polyesters obtained from at least one dimer acid
[0056] As used herein, the term "polyester (s) obtained from at least one dimer acid" means a polyester which is obtained from the esterification of at least one dimer acid and of a compound containing at least one hydroxyl group.
[0057] The dimer acid is preferably obtained by an intermolecular polymerization reaction, e.g., a dimerization reaction, of at least one unsaturated carboxylic acid.
[0058] The representatives of these unsaturated carboxylic acids may be palmitoleic acid, oleic acid, linoleic acid, elaidic acid, gadoleic acid, eicosapentaenoic acid, docosahexaenoic acid, erucic acid, brassidic acid, arachidonic acid, and mixtures thereof.
[0059] Preferably, the dimer acid is unsaturated and is derived from the dimerization of a C16-C24 unsaturated fatty acid, preferably a C16-C22 unsaturated fatty acid, and more preferably a C18 unsaturated fatty acid.
[0060] More preferably, the dimer acid is dilinoleic acid.
[0061] Preferably, the polyester obtained from at least one dimer acid is chosen from esters of a natural oil containing at least one hydroxyl group and of a dimer acid as defined above.
[0062] More preferably, the polyester obtained from at least one dimer acid is chosen from esters of a natural oil containing at least one hydroxyl group and of a dimer acid derived from the dimerization of a C16-C24 unsaturated fatty acid, preferably a C16-C22 unsaturated fatty acid, and more preferably a C18 unsaturated fatty acid.
[0063] As used herein, the term "natural oil" is an oil originated from plants, animals and / or minerals. Preferably, the natural oil is extracted from plants or other vegetative life (as opposed to oils which are obtained through synthetic reactions) . The plant oils comprise mono-, di-, and / or tri-glycerides, which are generally mono-, di-, and / or tri-esters of fatty acids and of glycerol. The plant oils may also comprise an amount of at least one free fatty acid. In some instances, the plant oils comprise 1 wt. %or less, 0.5 wt. %or less, or 0.1 wt. %or less of at least one free fatty acid. The fatty acid moieties of the mono-, di-, and / or tri-glycerides and / or the free fatty acid have varied chain lengths from C4 to C24, preferably C6 to C24, more preferably C8 to C24, or C8 to C22, or C12 to C20, or C12 to C18, it being possible for these chains to be saturated or unsaturated and linear or branched. Preferably, the fatty acid moieties of the mono-, di-, and / or tri-glycerides and / or the free fatty acid comprise at least one unsaturated chain, which is further hydrogenated to be partially or totally saturated.
[0064] Even more preferably, the polyester obtained from at least one dimer acid is chosen from esters of hydrogenated castor oil and of a dimer acid derived from the dimerization of a C16-C24 unsaturated fatty acid, preferably a C16-C22 unsaturated fatty acid, and more preferably a C18 unsaturated fatty acid.
[0065] Still more preferably, the polyester obtained from at least one dimer acid is chosen from esters of hydrogenated castor oil and dilinoleic acid, such as hydrogenated castor oil dimer dilinoleate sold under the names Risocast-DA-L or Risocast-DA-H by Kokyu Alcohol Kogyo (INCI name: Hydrogenated Castor Oil Dimer Dilinoleate) .
[0066] Triglycerides of at least one C8-C30 fatty acid
[0067] As used herein, the term "triglyceride of at least one C8-C30 fatty acid" or "triglyceride derived from at least one C8-C30 fatty acid" means a triglyceride which can be obtained from the esterification of at least one C8-C30 fatty acid.
[0068] According to the present invention, the triglyceride of at least one C8-C30 fatty acid is different from or does not include the polyesters obtained from at least one dimer acid as defined above.
[0069] Preferably, the C8-C30 fatty acid is chosen from C8-C24 fatty acids, preferably C12-C18 fatty acids, which may be saturated or unsaturated, and linear or branched.
[0070] Further, the C8-C30 fatty acid is optionally hydroxylated, and may be monohydroxylated or polyhydroxylated.
[0071] According to the present invention, the triglyceride of at least one C8-C30 fatty acid can be derived from the same C8-C30 fatty acid or from different C8-C30 fatty acids. Further, the triglyceride of at least one C8-C30 fatty acid can be derived from at least one saturated C8-C30 fatty acid, from at least one unsaturated C8-C30 fatty acid, or from both at least one saturated C8-C30 fatty acid and at least one saturated C8-C30 fatty acid.
[0072] Preferably, the triglyceride of at least one C8-C30 fatty acid is chosen from triglycerides of one or more saturated or unsaturated, linear, or branched C8-C24 fatty acid (s) , and preferably C12-C18 fatty acid (s) .
[0073] Preferably, the triglyceride of at least one C8-C30 fatty acid is further totally or partially hydrogenated when it comprises at least one triglyceride of at least one C8-C30 fatty acid comprising at least one C8-C30 unsaturated fatty acid.
[0074] More preferably, the triglyceride of at least one C8-C30 fatty acid is chosen from triglycerides of at least one saturated, linear, or branched C8-C30 fatty acid, preferably C8-C24 fatty acid, and more preferably C12-C18 fatty acid, and at least one unsaturated, linear, or branched C8-C30 fatty acid, preferably C8-C24 fatty acid, and more preferably C12-C18 fatty acid, which triglycerides being further totally or partially hydrogenated.
[0075] One preferable example of the triglyceride of at least one C8-C30 fatty acid is the one sold under the name Softisan by Cremer Oleo (INCI name: Hydrogenated Coco-Glycerides) .
[0076] Advantageously, the first pasty fatty compound is present in an amount ranging from 0.1 wt. %to 30 wt. %, preferably from 1 wt. %to 20 wt. %, and more preferably 3 wt. %to 15 wt. %, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0077] Optionally, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one second pasty fatty compound chosen from polyesters resulting from the condensation of at least one dicarboxylic acid and of at least one ester of diglycerol and of at least one monocarboxylic acid.
[0078] Polyesters resulting from the condensation of at least one dicarboxylic acid and of at least one ester of diglycerol and of at least one monocarboxylic acid
[0079] According to the present invention, the dicarboxylic acid may be linear or branched, and preferably comprises from 4 to 10 carbon atoms, more preferably comprises from 4 to 8 carbon atoms.
[0080] As used herein, the term "diglycerol" means a viscous hygroscopic liquid polyhydroxy ether O (CH2CHOHCH2OH) 2 made by dehydration of glycerol.
[0081] According to the present invention, the monocarboxylic acid is optionally hydroxylated, and may be linear or branched. Preferably, the monocarboxylic acid comprises from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably from 6 to 24 carbon atoms, and more preferably from 8 to 18 carbon atoms.
[0082] One example of the second pasty fatty compound is the polyester obtained by condensation of adipic acid and of a mixture of esters of diglycerol with a mixture of C6-C24 fatty acids, such as caprylic acid, capric acid, stearic acid, isostearic acid and 12-hydroxystearic acid, such as the one having the INCI name Bis-Diglyceryl Polyacyladipate-2, which is notably sold under the reference 649 by Cremer Oleo.
[0083] Advantageously, the second pasty fatty compound is present in an amount ranging from 0.01 wt. %to 20 wt. %, preferably from 0.1 wt. %to 15 wt. %, and more preferably 1 wt. %to 10 wt. %, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0084] Polyglyceryl fatty acid esters
[0085] The composition according to the present invention may comprise at least one polyglyceryl fatty acid ester.
[0086] Preferably, the polyglyceryl fatty acid esters suitable for the present invention is chosen from polyglyceryl fatty acid esters with a polyglyceryl moiety derived from 2 to 10 glycerol units, preferably 2 to 8 glycerol units.
[0087] More preferably, the polyglyceryl fatty acid ester is chosen from esters of one or more saturated or unsaturated (preferably saturated) fatty acid (s) including 8 to 28 carbon atoms, preferably 12 to 24 carbon atoms, and more preferably 16 to 22 carbon atoms and of polyglycerin with a polyglyceryl moiety derived from 2 to 10 glycerol units, preferably 2 to 8 glycerol units, and more preferably 2 to 6 glycerol units.
[0088] Non-limiting examples of the polyglycerol fatty acid ester include, but are not limited to, polyglyceryl-4 caprate, polyglyceryl-2 caprate, polyglyceryl-4 caprylate, polyglyceryl-6 caprylate, polyglyceryl-6 caprate, polyglyceryl-4 caprylate / caprate, polyglyceryl-6 caprylate / caprate, polyglyceryl-3 cocoate, polyglyceryl-4 cocoate, polyglyceryl-10 decalinoleate, polyglyceryl-10 decaoleate, polyglyceryl-10 decastearate, polyglyceryl-3 dicaprate, polyglyceryl-3 dicocoate, polyglyceryl-10 didecanoate, polyglyceryl-2 diisostearate, polyglyceryl-3 diisostearate, polyglyceryl-4 diisostearate, polyglyceryl-10 diisostearate, polyglyceryl-4 dilaurate, polyglyceryl-2 dioleate, polyglyceryl-3 dioleate, polyglyceryl-6 dioleate, polyglyceryl-10 dioleate, polyglyceryl-6 dipalmitate, polyglyceryl-10 dipalmitate, polyglyceryl-2 dipolyhydroxystearate, polyglyceryl-2 distearate, polyglyceryl-3 distearate, polyglyceryl-6 distearate, polyglyceryl-10 distearate, polyglyceryl-10 diisostearate, polyglyceryl-10 heptaoleate, polyglyceryl-10 heptastearate, polyglyceryl-6 hexaoleate, polyglyceryl-10 hexaoleate, polyglyceryl-2 isopalmitate, polyglyceryl-2 isostearate, polyglyceryl-4 isostearate, polyglyceryl-4 diisostearate / polyhydroxystearate / sebacate, polyglyceryl-5 isostearate, polyglyceryl-6 isostearate, polyglyceryl-10 isostearate, polyglyceryl-2 laurate, polyglyceryl-3 laurate, polyglyceryl-4 laurate, polyglyceryl-4 laurate / sebacate, polyglyceryl-4 laurate / succinate, polyglyceryl-5 laurate, polyglyceryl-6 laurate, polyglyceryl-10 laurate, polyglyceryl-3 myristate, polyglyceryl-10 myristate, polyglyceryl-2 oleate, polyglyceryl-3 oleate, polyglyceryl-4 oleate, polyglyceryl-5 oleate, polyglyceryl-6 oleate, polyglyceryl-8 oleate, polyglyceryl-10 oleate, polyglyceryl-3 palmitate, polyglyceryl-6 palmitate, polyglyceryl-10 pentalaurate, polyglyceryl-10 pentalinoleate, polyglyceryl-4 pentaoleate, polyglyceryl-10 pentaoleate, polyglyceryl-3 pentaricinoleate, polyglyceryl-6 pentaricinoleate, polyglyceryl-10 pentaricinoleate, polyglyceryl-4 pentastearate, polyglyceryl-6 pentastearate, polyglyceryl-10 pentastearate, polyglyceryl-3 polyricinoleate, polyglyceryl-6 polyricinoleate, polyglyceryl-3 ricinoleate, polyglyceryl-3 stearate, polyglyceryl-2 stearate, polyglyceryl-4 stearate, polyglyceryl-8 stearate, polyglyceryl-10 stearate, polyglyceryl-2 tetraisostearate, polyglyceryl-6 tetraoleate, polyglyceryl-10 tetraoleate, polyglyceryl-2 tetrastearate, polyglyceryl-2 triisostearate, polyglyceryl-3 isostearate, polyglyceryl-3 triisostearate, polyglyceryl-10 trioleate, polyglyceryl-4 tristearate, and polyglyceryl-10 tristearate.
[0089] Preferred examples of the polyglycerol fatty acid ester include, but are not limited to, polyglyceryl-2 isostearate, polyglyceryl-2 diisostearate, polyglyceryl-2 triisostearate, polyglyceryl-2 tetraisostearate, polyglyceryl-3 isostearate, polyglyceryl-3 diisostearate, polyglyceryl-3 triisostearate, polyglyceryl-4 isostearate, and polyglyceryl-4 diisostearate.
[0090] One preferable example of the polyglycerol fatty acid ester is polyglyceryl-2 triisostearate, e.g., the one sold under the name Cosmol 43 V by the company Nisshin OilliO.
[0091] Advantageously, the polyglyceryl fatty acid ester is present in an amount ranging from 0.1 wt. %to 15 wt. %, preferably from 0.5 wt. %to 10 wt. %, and more preferably from 1 wt. %to 5 wt. %, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0092] Colorants
[0093] The composition according to the present invention may comprise at least one colorant.
[0094] For the purposes of the present invention, the term "colorant" means a compound that is capable of producing a colored optical effect when it is formulated in sufficient amount in a suitable cosmetic medium.
[0095] The colorant under consideration in the context of the present invention may be selected from water-soluble or water-insoluble, liposoluble or non-liposoluble, organic or inorganic colorants.
[0096] The colorant may be chosen from dyes, pigments, and mixtures thereof. Preferably, the colorant is chosen from pigments.
[0097] The term "dye" means a colored substance that chemically bonds to the substrate to which it is being applied, and is generally applied in an aqueous solution and may require a mordant to improve the fastness of the dye on the fiber. The term “pigment” means white or colored, mineral or organic particles, which are insoluble in an aqueous or oily medium, and which are intended to color and / or opacify the resulting composition and / or deposit.
[0098] The pigment may be chosen from coated or uncoated mineral pigments. The pigment may also be chosen from organic pigments.
[0099] The organic pigment may be chosen from nitroso, nitro, azo (e.g., azo yellow) , xanthene, quinoline, anthraquinone, phthalocyanine (e.g., phthalocyanine blue) , metal complex type, isoindolinone, isoindoline, quinacridone, perinone, perylene, diketopyrrolopyrrole, thioindigo, dioxazine, triphenylmethane and quinophthalone compounds.
[0100] The organic pigment may be chosen, for example, from carmine, carbon black, aniline black, melanin, sorghum red, the blue pigments codified in the Color Index under the references CI 42090, 69800, 69825, 73000, 74100 and 74160, the yellow pigments codified in the Color Index under the references CI 11680, 11710, 15985, 19140, 20040, 21100, 21108, 47000 and 47005, the green pigments codified in the Color Index under the references CI 61565, 61570 and 74260, the orange pigments codified in the Color Index under the references CI 11725, 15510, 45370 and 71105, the red pigments codified in the Color Index under the references CI 12085, 12120, 12370, 12420, 12490, 14700, 15525, 15580, 15620, 15630, 15800, 15850, 15865, 15880, 17200, 26100, 45380, 45410, 58000, 73360, 73915 and 75470, and the pigments obtained by oxidative polymerization of indole or phenol derivatives as described in patent FR 2 679 771.
[0101] These pigments may also be in the form of composite pigments as described in patent EP 1 184 426. These composite pigments may be composed of particles including a mineral core at least partially covered with an organic pigment and at least one binder for fixing the organic pigments to the core.
[0102] The pigment may also be a lake. The term “lake” means insolubilized colorants adsorbed or precipitated onto insoluble particles, the assembly thus obtained remaining insoluble during use.
[0103] The insoluble particles onto which the insolubilized colorants are adsorbed are, for example, alumina, silica, calcium sodium borosilicate or calcium aluminium borosilicate and aluminium.
[0104] The pigments may or may not be subjected to a hydrophobic surface treatment.
[0105] Among the organic pigments, mention may be made of cochineal carmine.
[0106] Mention may also be made of the products, and also the lakes thereof, known under the following names: D&C Red 7 (CI 15 850) , D&C Red 21 (CI 45 380) , D&C Orange 5 (CI 45 370) , D&C Red 27 (CI 45 410) , D&C Orange 10 (CI 45 425) , D&C Red 3 (CI 45 430) , D&C Red 4 (CI 15 510) , D&C Red 33 (CI 17 200) , D&C Yellow 5 (CI 19 140) , D&C Yellow 6 (CI 15 985) , D&C Green 5 (CI 61 570) , D&C Yellow 10 (CI 77 002) , D&C Green 3 (CI 42 053) , D&C Blue 1 (CI 42 090) .
[0107] Preferably, the colorant according to the present invention is chosen from blue organic pigments, yellow organic pigments, green organic pigments, orange organic pigments, red organic pigments, and mixtures thereof.
[0108] More preferably, the colorant according to the present invention is chosen from red organic pigments, e.g., Red 7 (CI 15 850) .
[0109] Advantageously, the colorant is present in an amount ranging from 0.01 wt. %to 20 wt. %, preferably from 0.1 wt. %to 15 wt. %, and more preferably from 1 wt. %to 10 wt. %, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0110] Apolar hydrocarbon-based waxes
[0111] The composition according to the present invention may comprise at least one apolar hydrocarbon-based wax.
[0112] As used herein, the term "apolar hydrocarbon-based wax" means a wax comprising only carbon and hydrogen atoms in its structure.
[0113] As used herein, the term “wax” means a lipophilic solid fatty compound with a reversible solid / liquid change of state, which is solid at room temperature (25℃) , and at atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg) .
[0114] Among the apolar hydrocarbon-based waxes, mention may be made of polyethylene waxes, microcrystalline waxes, paraffin waxes, ozokerite, polymethylene waxes, waxes obtained by Fischer-Tropsch synthesis, and mixtures thereof.
[0115] Preferably, the apolar hydrocarbon-based wax is chosen from microcrystalline waxes.
[0116] Advantageously, the apolar hydrocarbon-based wax is present in an amount ranging from 0.1 wt. %to 30 wt. %, preferably from 1 wt. %to 20 wt. %, and more preferably from 5 wt. %to 15 wt. %, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0117] Oils
[0118] The composition according to the present invention may comprise at least one oil.
[0119] The term “oil” denotes liquid compounds that are water-immiscible and non-aqueous, at 25℃ and atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg) .
[0120] According to the present invention, the oil may be chosen from apolar hydrocarbon-based oils, fatty alcohols, and mixtures thereof.
[0121] The apolar hydrocarbon-based oil (s) are, for example, compounds comprising only carbon and hydrogen atoms (in other words oils of hydrocarbon type) .
[0122] Said apolar hydrocarbon-based oils may be linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated.
[0123] Said apolar hydrocarbon-based oils may be of mineral, plant or synthetic origin, for instance:
[0124] -liquid paraffin,
[0125] -squalane,
[0126] -isoeicosane,
[0127] -mixtures of saturated linear hydrocarbons, for example of C15-C28, such as the mixture whose INCI name is, for example, C15-19 Alkane (INCI name) , for instance the products Gemseal 40 sold by Total, and Emogreen L19 sold by SEPPIC,
[0128] -hydrogenated or non-hydrogenated polybutenes, for instance products of the Indopol range sold by the company Ineos Oligomers,
[0129] -hydrogenated or non-hydrogenated polyisobutenes, for instance the range sold by the company Nippon Oil Fats, and Indopol H-300 sold by the company Ineos,
[0130] -hydrogenated or non-hydrogenated polydecenes, for instance the range sold by the company ExxonMobil,
[0131] -and mixtures thereof.
[0132] The fatty alcohols include those having a fatty group with a carbon chain of 8 carbon atoms or greater, preferably from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, more preferably 12 to 22 carbon atoms, and even more preferably 16 to 22 carbon atoms.
[0133] The fatty alcohol may be saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, acyclic or cyclic. Non-limiting examples of the fatty alcohols include, but are not limited to, decyl alcohol, undecyl alcohol, dodecyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, isocetyl alcohol, linalool, oleyl alcohol, cis-4-t-butylcyclohexanol, isotridecyl alcohol, octyldodecanol, and 2-hexyldecanol.
[0134] Preferably, the fatty alcohol is saturated, branched, and acyclic. One preferable example of the fatty alcohol is octyldodecanol, e.g., the one sold under the name Eutanol G by the company BASF.
[0135] Preferably, the oil is chosen from hydrogenated or non-hydrogenated polybutenes, hydrogenated or non-hydrogenated polyisobutenes, hydrogenated or non-hydrogenated polydecenes, isostearyl alcohol, isocetyl alcohol, octyldodecanol, 2-hexyldecanol, and mixtures thereof.
[0136] More preferably, the oil is chosen from non-hydrogenated polybutenes, non-hydrogenated polyisobutenes, octyldodecanol, and mixtures thereof.
[0137] Advantageously, the oil is present in an amount ranging from 20 wt. %to 90 wt. %, preferably from 30 wt. %to 80 wt. %, and more preferably from 40 wt. %to 70 wt. %, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0138] Additional ingredients
[0139] The composition according to the present invention may comprise one or more additional ingredients, selected from those conventionally used in cosmetic products, and preferably lip products.
[0140] The composition in accordance with the present invention may comprise any of the following additives: biological extracts; fragrances; active ingredients; and preservatives.
[0141] A person skilled in the art can adjust the type and amount of the additional ingredients present in the compositions according to the present invention by means of routine operations, so that the desired properties of these compositions are not adversely affected by the additional ingredients.
[0142] Composition
[0143] The composition according to the present invention is applicable for any common cosmetic products, preferably lip products.
[0144] Preferably, the composition according to the present invention is anhydrous.
[0145] For the purposes of the present invention, the term "anhydrous" refers to a composition comprising water in a content of less than or equal to 1%by weight, preferably less than or equal to 0.5%by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, or even a composition free of water. Such small amounts of water may, where appropriate, be introduced in particular by the composition ingredients which may contain residual amounts thereof.
[0146] By means of the specific components as defined above, the composition comprising the same can simultaneously achieve a long lasting shine effect and a good affinity effect.
[0147] In one preferred embodiment, the present invention relates to a composition for making up keratin materials, preferably the lips, relative to the total weight of the composition, comprising:
[0148] (a) from 0.1 wt. %to 15 wt. %of at least one alkylcellulose;
[0149] (b) from 0.01 wt. %to 10 wt. %of at least one high viscosity ester chosen from monoesters and polyesters of sugars, which has a viscosity of at least 10 000 cps at 30 ℃; and
[0150] (c) from 0.1 wt. %to 30 wt. %of at least one first pasty fatty compound chosen from polyesters obtained from at least one dimer acid, triglycerides of at least one C8-C30 fatty acid, and mixtures thereof.
[0151] In one preferred embodiment, the present invention relates to a composition for making up keratin materials, preferably the lips, relative to the total weight of the composition, comprising:
[0152] (a) from 0.5 wt. %to 10 wt. %of at least one alkylcellulose, in which the alkyl portion of the alkylcellulose contains two to eight carbon atoms, and preferably two to four carbon atoms;
[0153] (b) from 0.1 wt. %to 8 wt. %of at least one high viscosity ester chosen from C1-C30 monoesters and polyesters of sugars, and preferably chosen from C2-C6 carboxylic acid esters of sucrose,
[0154] wherein the high viscosity ester preferably has a viscosity ranging from 20000 cps to 500 000 cps at 30 ℃, and more preferably from 30 000 cps to 300 000 cps at 30 ℃; and
[0155] (c) from 1 wt. %to 20 wt. %of at least one first pasty fatty compound chosen from polyesters obtained from at least one dimer acid, triglycerides of at least one C8-C30 fatty acid, and mixtures thereof,
[0156] wherein the polyester obtained from at least one dimer acid is chosen from esters of a natural oil containing at least one hydroxyl group and of a dimer acid derived from the dimerization of a C16-C24 unsaturated fatty acid, preferably a C16-C22 unsaturated fatty acid, and more preferably a C18 unsaturated fatty acid, and
[0157] the triglyceride of at least one C8-C30 fatty acid is chosen from triglycerides of one or more saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched C8-C18 fatty acid (s) , and preferably C12-C18 fatty acid (s) .
[0158] In one preferred embodiment, the present invention relates to a composition for making up keratin materials, preferably the lips, relative to the total weight of the composition, comprising:
[0159] (a) from 1 wt. %to 5 wt. %of at least one alkylcellulose chosen from ethylcelluloses, propylcelluloses, and mixtures thereof, and preferably an ethylcellulose;
[0160] (b) from 0.5 wt. %to 5 wt. %of at least one high viscosity ester is chosen from mixed esters of acetic acid, isobutyric acid and sucrose, and is preferably sucrose diacetate hexakis (2-methylpropanoate) ,
[0161] wherein the high viscosity ester preferably has a viscosity ranging from 50000 cps to 200 000 cps at 30 ℃; and
[0162] (c) from 3 wt. %to 15 wt. %of at least one first pasty fatty compound chosen from esters of hydrogenated castor oil and dilinoleic acid, and preferably hydrogenated castor oil dimer dilinoleate; triglycerides of at least one saturated, linear or branched C8-C30 fatty acid, preferably C8-C24 fatty acid, and more preferably C12-C18 fatty acid, and at least one unsaturated, linear or branched C8-C30 fatty acid, preferably C8-C24 fatty acid, and more preferably C12-C18 fatty acid, which triglycerides being further totally or partially hydrogenated, and preferably hydrogenated coco-glycerides; and mixtures thereof.
[0163] Process and use
[0164] The composition according to the present invention is used in a process for making up keratin materials, preferably the lips, by being applied onto the keratin materials.
[0165] The composition according to the invention may be applied by any means enabling a uniform distribution, e.g., using a finger, a brush, or a cotton ball.
[0166] According to the second aspect, the present invention relates to a process for making up keratin materials, preferably the lips, comprising applying the above composition onto the keratin materials.
[0167] The present invention is illustrated in greater detail by the examples described below, which are given as non-limiting illustrations.
[0168] EXAMPLES
[0169] Main raw materials used, trade names and suppliers thereof were listed in Table 3.
[0170] Table 3
[0171] Comparative Examples 1-3 and Inventive Example 1
[0172] The lipsticks according to comparative examples (CE. ) 1-3 and inventive example (Ex. ) 1 comprising the ingredients shown in Table 4 were prepared, with all amounts expressed by weight percentages of active matters with regard to the total weight of each composition.
[0173] Table 4
[0174] Preparation process
[0175] The lipsticks were prepared from a process comprising the following steps:
[0176] 1) . for each of Comparative Examples 1-3 and Inventive Example 1, mixing all the ingredients at a temperature of 95℃, stirring the resulted mixture at a speed of 300 r / min by IKA Blender (Euro–ST P CV S25 model) until homogeneous;
[0177] 2) . pouring each of the homogenized mixtures into a lipstick mold at a temperature of 98℃, and leaving it in the mold at a temperature of 25℃ until it was solidified; and
[0178] 3) . demolding each of the solidified mixtures from the mold to obtain the lipstick.
[0179] Test of lasting shine effect
[0180] Six experts were recruited to evaluate the lasting shine effect and gave scores respectively, wherein every expert applied on the lips each lipstick using the same force for the same period of time and checked how long the shine makeup wearing lasted. The lasting shine effect was scored with a score of "0-5" according to the following standard and then the scores were averaged for each lipstick:
[0181] 4≤Scores≤5: very long lasting shine effect (6 hours or longer)
[0182] 3≤Scores<4: good lasting shine effect (4 to less than 6 hours)
[0183] 2≤Scores<3: normal lasting shine effect (2 to less than 4 hours)
[0184] 1≤Scores<2: not good lasting shine effect (1 to less than 2 hours)
[0185] 0≤Scores<1: poor lasting shine effect (less than 1 hour) .
[0186] The higher of the scores, the better of the lasting shine effect.
[0187] Test of affinity effect
[0188] Six experts were recruited to evaluate the affinity effect and gave scores respectively, wherein every expert applied on the lips each lipstick using the same force for the same period of time to check whether there was any unfit issue. The affinity effect was scored with a score of "0-5" according to the following standard and then the scores were averaged for each lipstick:
[0189] 4≤Scores≤5: super good affinity effect, without any defect like powdery / cakey / flake;
[0190] 3≤Scores<4: good affinity effect, nearly without defect like powdery / cakey / flake;
[0191] 2≤Scores<3: normal affinity effect, slightly powdery / cakey / flake;
[0192] 1≤Scores<2: not good affinity effect, moderate powdery / cakey / flake;
[0193] 0≤Scores<1: very poor affinity, serious powdery / cakey / flake.
[0194] The higher of the scores, the better of the affinity effect.
[0195] Table 5
[0196] From Table 5, it can be seen that the lipstick of Inventive Example 1, comprising at least one alkylcellulose; at least one high viscosity ester chosen from monoesters and polyesters of sugars; and at least one specific first pasty fatty compound, can simultaneously achieve a long lasting shine effect and a good affinity effect.
Claims
A composition, preferably for making up keratin materials, comprising:(a) at least one alkylcellulose;(b) at least one high viscosity ester chosen from monoesters and polyesters of sugars; and(c) at least one first pasty fatty compound chosen from polyesters obtained from at least one dimer acid, triglycerides of at least one C8-C30 fatty acid, and mixtures thereof.The composition according to claim 1, wherein the alkyl portion of the alkylcellulose contains two to eight carbon atoms, and preferably two to four carbon atoms;preferably, the alkylcellulose is chosen from ethylcelluloses, propylcelluloses, and mixtures thereof;more preferably, the alkylcellulose is an ethylcellulose;even more preferably, the alkylcellulose is an ethylcellulose having a viscosity at 5%by weight in a toluene: ethanol mixture (80: 20) at 25℃ of between 3 and 350 mPa·s, preferably between 3 and 105 mPa·s, more preferably between 3 and 24 mPa·s, even more preferably between 3 and 11 mPa·s, still more preferably between 5.6 and 8 mPa·s, and most preferably between 6 and 8 mPa·s,wherein the alkylcellulose is preferably present in an amount ranging from 0.1 wt. %to 15 wt. %, preferably from 0.5 wt. %to 10 wt. %, and more preferably 1 wt. %to 5 wt. %, relative to the total weight of the composition.The composition according to claim 1 or 2, wherein the high viscosity ester has a viscosity of at least 10 000 cps at 30 ℃;preferably, the high viscosity ester is chosen from C1-C30 monoesters and polyesters of sugars, and has a viscosity ranging from 20 000 cps to 500 000 cps at 30 ℃, preferably from 30 000 cps to 300 000 cps at 30 ℃;more preferably, the high viscosity ester is chosen from C1-C18 polyesters of sugars, and has a viscosity ranging from 20 000 cps to 500 000 cps at 30 ℃, preferably from 30 000 cps to 300 000 cps at 30 ℃;still more preferably, the high viscosity ester is chosen from C2-C6 carboxylic acid esters of sucrose, and has a viscosity ranging from 20 000 cps to 500 000 cps at 30 ℃, preferably from 30 000 cps to 300 000 cps at 30 ℃;even more preferably, the high viscosity ester is chosen from mixed esters of acetic acid, isobutyric acid and of sucrose, and has a viscosity ranging from 50 000 cps to 200 000 cps at 30 ℃, andmost preferably, the high viscosity ester is sucrose diacetate hexakis (2-methylpropanoate) , and has a viscosity ranging from 50 000 cps to 200 000 cps at 30 ℃.The composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the polyester obtained from at least one dimer acid is chosen from esters of a natural oil containing at least one hydroxyl group and of a dimer acid derived from the dimerization of a C16-C24 unsaturated fatty acid, preferably a C16-C22 unsaturated fatty acid, and more preferably a C18 unsaturated fatty acid,preferably, the natural oil is selected from oils originated from plants comprising mono-, di-, and / or tri-glycerides and optionally at least one free fatty acid, wherein the fatty acid moieties of the mono-, di-, and / or tri-glycerides and / or the free fatty acid have varied chain lengths from C4 to C24, preferably C6 to C24, more preferably C8 to C22, and even more preferably C12 to C18, the chains being saturated or unsaturated and linear or branched; preferably the fatty acid moieties of the mono-, di-, and / or tri-glycerides and / or the free fatty acid comprise at least one unsaturated chain, which is further hydrogenated to be partially or totally saturated,preferably, the polyester obtained from at least one dimer acid is chosen from esters of hydrogenated castor oil and of a dimer acid derived from the dimerization of a C16-C24 unsaturated fatty acid, preferably a C16-C22 unsaturated fatty acid, and more preferably a C18 unsaturated fatty acid,more preferably, the polyester obtained from at least one dimer acid is chosen from esters of hydrogenated castor oil and dilinoleic acid, and is preferably hydrogenated castor oil dimer dilinoleate.The composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the triglyceride of at least one C8-C30 fatty acid is chosen from triglycerides of one or more saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched C8-C24 fatty acid (s) , and preferably C12-C18 fatty acid (s) , and is preferably further totally or partially hydrogenated when it comprises at least one triglyceride of at least one C8-C30 fatty acid comprising at least one C8-C30 unsaturated fatty acid;preferably, the triglyceride of at least one C8-C30 fatty acid is chosen from triglycerides of at least one saturated, linear or branched C8-C30 fatty acid, preferably C8-C24 fatty acid, and more preferably C12-C18 fatty acid, and at least one unsaturated, linear or branched C8-C30 fatty acid, preferably C8-C24 fatty acid, and more preferably C12-C18 fatty acid, which triglycerides being further totally or partially hydrogenated, andeven more preferably, the triglycerides of at least one C8-C30 fatty acid is hydrogenated coco-glycerides.The composition according to any one of the preceding claims, further comprising at least one second pasty fatty compound chosen from polyesters resulting from the condensation of at least one dicarboxylic acid and of at least one ester of diglycerol and of at least one monocarboxylic acid, wherein the dicarboxylic acid is linear or branched, and preferably comprises from 4 to 10 carbon atoms, and more preferably from 4 to 8 carbon atoms, and the monocarboxylic acid is linear or branched, optionally hydroxylated, and preferably comprises from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably from 6 to 24 carbon atoms, and more preferably from 8 to 18 carbon atoms,preferably, the second pasty fatty compound is the polyester obtained by condensation of adipic acid and of a mixture of esters of diglycerol with a mixture of C6-C24 fatty acids, such as caprylic acid, capric acid, stearic acid, isostearic acid and 12-hydroxystearic acid,more preferably, the second pasty fatty compound is bis-diglyceryl polyacyladipate-2,wherein the second pasty fatty compound is preferably present in an amount ranging from 0.01 wt. %to 20 wt. %, preferably from 0.1 wt. %to 15 wt. %, and more preferably 1 wt. %to 10 wt. %, relative to the total weight of the composition.The composition according to any one of the preceding claims, further comprising at least one polyglyceryl fatty acid ester, preferably a polyglyceryl fatty acid ester with a polyglyceryl moiety derived from 2 to 10 glycerol units, preferably 2 to 8 glycerol units,more preferably, the polyglyceryl fatty acid ester is chosen from esters of one or more saturated or unsaturated (preferably saturated) fatty acid (s) including 8 to 28, preferably 12 to 24 carbon atoms, and more preferably 16 to 22 carbon atoms and of polyglycerin with a polyglyceryl moiety derived from 2 to 10 glycerol units, preferably 2 to 8 glycerol units, and more preferably 2 to 6 glycerol units,even more preferably, the polyglyceryl fatty acid ester is selected from the group consisting of polyglyceryl-2 isostearate, polyglyceryl-2 diisostearate, polyglyceryl-2 triisostearate, polyglyceryl-2 tetraisostearate, polyglyceryl-3 isostearate, polyglyceryl-3 diisostearate, polyglyceryl-3 triisostearate, polyglyceryl-4 isostearate, and polyglyceryl-4 diisostearate,wherein the polyglyceryl fatty acid ester is preferably present in an amount ranging from 0.1 wt. %to 15 wt. %, preferably from 0.5 wt. %to 10 wt. %, and more preferably from 1 wt. %to 5 wt. %, relative to the total weight of the composition.The composition according to any one of the preceding claims, further comprising at least one colorant which is preferably chosen from pigments, more preferably organic pigments,even more preferably, the colorant is chosen from blue organic pigments, yellow organic pigments, green organic pigments, orange organic pigments, red organic pigments, and mixtures thereof,wherein the colorant is preferably present in an amount ranging from 0.01 wt. %to 20 wt. %, preferably from 0.1 wt. %to 15 wt. %, and more preferably from 1 wt. %to 10 wt. %, relative to the total weight of the composition.The composition according to any one of the preceding claims, further comprising at least one apolar hydrocarbon-based wax,preferably, the apolar hydrocarbon-based wax is chosen from polyethylene waxes, microcrystalline waxes, paraffin waxes, ozokerite, polymethylene waxes, waxes obtained by Fischer-Tropsch synthesis, and mixtures thereof,more preferably, the apolar hydrocarbon-based wax is chosen from microcrystalline waxes;wherein the apolar hydrocarbon-based wax is preferably present in an amount ranging from 0.1 wt. %to 30 wt. %, more preferably from 1 wt. %to 20 wt. %, and even more preferably from 5 wt. %to 15 wt. %, relative to the total weight of the composition.The composition according to any one of the preceding claims, further comprising an oil, which is preferably chosen from apolar hydrocarbon-based oils, fatty alcohols, and mixtures thereof,more preferably, the oil is chosen from hydrogenated or non-hydrogenated polybutenes, hydrogenated or non-hydrogenated polyisobutenes, hydrogenated or non-hydrogenated polydecenes, isostearyl alcohol, isocetyl alcohol, octyldodecanol, 2-hexyldecanol, and mixtures thereof,even more preferably, the oil is chosen from non-hydrogenated polybutenes, non-hydrogenated polyisobutenes, octyldodecanol, and mixtures thereof,wherein the oil is preferably present in an amount ranging from 20 wt. %to 90 wt. %, more preferably from 30 wt. %to 80 wt. %, and even more preferably from 40 wt. %to 70 wt. %, relative to the total weight of the composition.The composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the high viscosity ester is present in an amount ranging from 0.01 wt. %to 15 wt. %, preferably from 0.1 wt. %to 8 wt. %, and more preferably 0.5 wt. %to 5 wt. %, relative to the total weight of the composition.The composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the first pasty fatty compound is present in an amount ranging from 0.1 wt. %to 30 wt. %, preferably from 1 wt. %to 20 wt. %, and more preferably 3 wt. %to 15 wt. %, relative to the total weight of the composition.A composition for making up keratin materials, preferably the lips, relative to the total weight of the composition, comprising:(a) from 1 wt. %to 5 wt. %of at least one alkylcellulose chosen from ethylcelluloses, propylcelluloses, and mixtures thereof, and preferably an ethylcellulose;(b) from 0.5 wt. %to 5 wt. %of at least one high viscosity ester chosen from mixed esters of acetic acid, isobutyric acid and sucrose, and preferably sucrose diacetate hexakis (2-methylpropanoate) ,wherein the high viscosity ester preferably has a viscosity ranging from 50 000 cps to 200 000 cps at 30 ℃; and(c) from 3 wt. %to 15 wt. %of at least one first pasty fatty compound chosen from esters of hydrogenated castor oil and dilinoleic acid, and preferably hydrogenated castor oil dimer dilinoleate; triglycerides of at least one saturated, linear or branched C8-C30 fatty acid, preferably C8-C24 fatty acid, and more preferably C12-C18 fatty acid, and at least one unsaturated, linear or branched C8-C30 fatty acid, preferably C8-C24 fatty acid, and more preferably C12-C18 fatty acid, which triglycerides being further totally or partially hydrogenated, and preferably hydrogenated coco-glycerides; and mixtures thereof.The composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the composition is anhydrous.A process for making up keratin materials, preferably the lips, comprising:applying the composition according to any one of claims 1-14 onto the keratin materials.