Silicone-free cosmetic oil for hair and body care

Abstract

Silicone-free cosmetic oils containing higher amounts of specific branched oils, vegetable oils, and an oligomeric ester are suitable for combined hair and body care.

Description

[0001] 2024P00355WÖ

[0002] Henkel AG & Co. KGaA

[0003] Dr. Ludwig

[0004] Silicone-free cosmetic oil for hair and body care

[0005] The invention relates to silicone-free cosmetic oils which contain ester oils and fatty alcohols with branched alkyl chains as well as a vegetable oil and a specific oligomer ester for thickening the oils.

[0006] The invention further relates to the use of the oils for hair and body care.

[0007] Hair oils are becoming increasingly popular with consumers because, unlike traditional hair conditioners, they can be applied to either wet or dry hair without rinsing. This allows for hair care while saving time and water.

[0008] From this perspective, hair oils have a beneficial sustainability and their market success is correspondingly high.

[0009] The vast majority of hair oils available on the market are based on silicones.

[0010] Due to their low biodegradability, silicones are increasingly controversial and are becoming a decisive purchasing criterion for more and more consumers.

[0011] The main difficulty in replacing silicone oils in hair care products is that silicone-free products often have reduced performance compared to silicone-containing products, and the product experience during the use of such products is described as not entirely satisfactory.

[0012] Currently available silicone-free hair oils are usually unable to fully guarantee the fast-absorbing, non-heavy and highly nourishing performance of a conventional, silicone-containing hair oil.

[0013] Another disadvantage of the majority of silicone-free hair oils available on the market is their insufficient degree of thickening, which can be accompanied by an unstable formula and storage problems.

[0014] A higher viscosity in hair oils is generally preferred, as it allows for more economical use and better distribution in the hair. Furthermore, higher viscosity hair oils are easier to enhance in a variety of ways, for example, by incorporating solid particles such as pigments, peels, petals, and / or waxes, which can improve the conditioning properties and / or the aesthetic appearance of the products.

[0015] German patent DE 102019135205 discloses silicone-free hair oils containing mixtures of esters, triglycerides, native oils, and perfumes. 2024P00355WÖ

[0016] 2

[0017] Market analyses continue to show a steadily increasing need for sustainable, biodegradable, simple, energy-efficiently produced, easy-to-use products that cover the widest possible range of applications.

[0018] In this context, corresponding products that guarantee so-called "multi-purpose applications" are increasingly coming into focus.

[0019] What is desired are cosmetic oils that are not only suitable for hair care, but can also be used as a body care product.

[0020] Such products are not yet well known on the market and are rather inconvenient to use, as they are usually too thin and / or only available as an oil spray for satisfactory application.

[0021] The present application was based on the objective of eliminating the disadvantages of commercially available, silicone-free cosmetic (hair) oils and providing silicone-free, cosmetic multi-purpose oils that guarantee a noticeable care effect on hair and / or the body, have good application properties and good stability.

[0022] These objectives were achieved by providing a silicone-free cosmetic oil according to claim 1.

[0023] According to the invention, silicone-free cosmetic oils achieve the advantages of a conventional, silicone-containing hair oil in terms of their spreadability and performance.

[0024] Through the balanced combination of higher amounts of branched oils (ester oils and fatty alcohols), vegetable oils and specific oligomer esters, cosmetic oils with high care potential could be provided, enabling multi-purpose application on hair, scalp, face, hands (including nails and cuticles) and the human body.

[0025] A first object of the invention is therefore a silicone-free cosmetic oil which contains a) at least one ester oil, b) at least one Ci2-Ö24 fatty alcohol, c) at least one vegetable oil and d) at least one oligomeric ester different from a) and b), wherein the components a) and b) comprise branched alkyl chains.

[0026] It has been found that higher amounts of branched oils, compared to purely unbranched oils, offer unexpected benefits. Specifically, branched oils a) and b) show a lower tendency—especially with frequent use—to weigh down hair or leave a greasy appearance on the skin and / or hair. 2024P00355WÖ

[0027] 3

[0028] Furthermore, branched oils a) and b) are absorbed more quickly into the skin and / or hair fibers, providing a long-lasting, light, non-greasy feeling of care.

[0029] At the same time, oils a) and b) form a kind of protective film around the hair fibers due to their branched structure, making hair smoother, more supple, and easier to comb. Thus, a significant reduction in frizz is also noticeable after using the products according to the invention.

[0030] A further advantage of using higher quantities of branched oils a) and b) in the products according to the invention is that this helps to better maintain or improve the elasticity and flexibility of skin and hair.

[0031] Branched oils a) and b) have a light, non-sticky texture and show a lower tendency to leave residues on the application surface than unbranched oils.

[0032] Another disadvantage of unbranched oils is that they can become rancid through oxidation if left untreated, which is particularly undesirable in the case of large-scale application. This too could be significantly reduced or prevented by using higher quantities of branched oils (a) and (b).

[0033] Finally, it was found that the inventive combination of oils a) - c) can be thickened excellently with a specific oligomer ester d), thereby enabling a particularly user-friendly application, regardless of whether the product is applied to the hair, face or the entire body.

[0034] For the purposes of the present invention, "higher" quantities are understood to mean that the oils a) and b) are used in a weight fraction of at least 40% by weight of the total weight of the cosmetic oils. More preferably, the sum of the weight fractions of a) and b) is at least 45% by weight, particularly preferably at least 50% by weight, most preferably at least 55% by weight, and most preferably at least 60% by weight.

[0035] A preferred embodiment of silicone-free cosmetic oils according to the invention is characterized in that it

[0036] Ester oil(s) a) in a weight fraction of 30 to 70 wt.%

[0037] Fatty alcohol(s) b) in a weight fraction of 10 to 40 wt.% vegetable oil(s) c) in a weight fraction of 0.001 to 10 wt.%

[0038] Oligomer esters d) are present in a weight fraction of 0.1 to 10 wt.%, where all weight fractions refer to the total weight of the silicone-free cosmetic oil.

[0039] Within this embodiment, silicone-free cosmetic oils are particularly preferred, which 2024P00355WÖ

[0040] 35 to 65 wt.%, more preferably 40 to 60 wt.% ester oil(s) a)

[0041] 10 to 35 wt.%, more preferably 10 to 30 wt.% fatty alcohol(s) b)

[0042] 0.01 to 7.5 wt.%, more preferably 0.05 to 5 wt.% vegetable oil(s) c)

[0043] 0.5 to 10 wt.%, more preferably 1 to 7.5 wt.% oligomer ester d) contain, wherein all weight percentages refer to the total weight of the silicone-free cosmetic oil.

[0044] Suitable ester oils a) within the meaning of the present invention are preferably understood to be ester oils which have a melting point below 30°C at 1013 mbar.

[0045] Ester oils according to the invention a) can also be used in the form of commercially available raw materials, which are mixtures of ester oils a) obtained from fatty acids of different chain lengths and / or alcohols of different chain lengths. These raw materials may have a melting point. For these raw materials, a melting point below 30°C means that the melting process begins at a temperature below 30°C.

[0046] Preferred ester oils a) within the meaning of the present invention are selected from compounds of the general formula (I) wherein

[0047] Ri for an unbranched or branched, saturated or unsaturated, optionally substituted with one or more hydroxyl groups, Cg-C23 alkyl group, and

[0048] R2 represents a branched C3-C2o alkyl group.

[0049] More preferably Ri represents an unbranched or branched Cg-Ci9 alkyl group and R2 represents a branched Cs-Cio alkyl group, particularly preferably an isopropyl or a 2-ethylhexyl group.

[0050] Particularly preferred are isopropyl isononanoate, isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, isopropyl stearate, isopropyl isostearate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, 2-ethylhexyl stearate, 2-ethylhexyl cocoate, 2-ethylhexyl isononanoate, isodecyl neopentanoate or mixtures thereof.

[0051] 2-Ethylhexyl palmitate and / or isopropyl stearate are particularly preferred. 2024P00355WÖ

[0052] 5

[0053] In a preferred embodiment, the cosmetic oils according to the invention contain 2-ethylhexyl palmitate and isopropyl stearate as ester oils a) in a weight fraction of 30 to 70 wt.% of the total weight of the cosmetic oils. More preferred are 35 to 65 wt.%, and further preferred are 40 to 60 wt.% of 2-ethylhexyl palmitate and isopropyl stearate.

[0054] Suitable Ci2-Ö24 fatty alcohols b) within the meaning of the present invention are preferably fatty alcohols which have a melting point below 30°C at 1013 mbar.

[0055] Preferred Ci2-Ö24 fatty alcohols b) may be selected from 2-butyldodecanol, 2-hexyldodecanol, 2-octyldodecanol, 2-hexyldecanol, 2-ethylhexyldecanol, isostearyl alcohol or mixtures thereof.

[0056] 2-Octyldodecanol is particularly preferred.

[0057] In a preferred embodiment, 2-octyldodecanol is used as a fatty alcohol in the cosmetic oils according to the invention in a weight fraction of 10 to 40 wt.% of the total weight of the cosmetic oils. More preferred are 10 to 35 wt.%, and further preferred are 10 to 30 wt.% of 2-octyldodecanol.

[0058] The at least one vegetable (virgin) oil c) may be selected from Ricinus Communis (castor) seed oil, Crambe Abyssinica seed oil, Amaranth seed oil, Kahai seed oil, Apricot kernel oil, Argan oil, Avocado oil, Babassu oil, Cottonseed oil, Borage seed oil, Camelina oil, Safflower oil, Peanut oil, Pomegranate seed oil, Grapefruit seed oil, Hemp oil, Hazelnut oil, Elderberry seed oil, Blackcurrant seed oil, Jojoba oil, Cocoa butter, Linseed oil, Macadamia nut oil, Corn germ oil, Almond oil, Marula oil, Evening primrose oil, Olive oil, Orange oil, Palm oil, Peach kernel oil, Rapeseed oil, Rice oil, Sea buckthorn pulp oil, Sea buckthorn seed oil, Sesame oil, Shea butter, Soybean oil, Sunflower oil, Grapeseed oil, Walnut oil, Wheat germ oil, Rosehip oil, the liquid components of coconut oil or any mixtures thereof.

[0059] It was found that a content of light, dry, vegetable oils c) in the cosmetic oils according to the invention is particularly preferred, because they cause the cosmetic oils to be absorbed into the skin and hair particularly quickly and leave a soft, smooth feeling on them.

[0060] The term “light, dry oils” preferably refers to vegetable oils c) that have a high linoleic acid content.

[0061] A high linoleic acid content is understood to mean that vegetable oils c) within the meaning of the present invention preferably have a linoleic acid content of at least 50%, more preferably at least 55%, particularly preferably at least 60% and most preferably at least 65%.

[0062] A preferred example of such a vegetable oil is Kahai seed oil (INCI name: Caryodendron orinocense seed oil).

[0063] In a preferred embodiment, at least one vegetable oil c) is used in the cosmetic oils according to the invention, which has a linoleic acid content of at least 50%.

[0064] Cosmetic oils according to the invention particularly preferably contain Kahai seed oil in a weight fraction of 0.001 to 10 wt.% of the total weight of the cosmetic oils. More preferred are 0.01 to 7.5 wt.%, and further preferred are 0.05 to 5 wt.% Kahai seed oil.

[0065] For the purposes of the present invention, suitable ‘oligomeric esters’ d) are understood to be oligomers with ester functions -(-CO-O-]- in their main chain.

[0066] Preferred oligomeric esters comprise oligomers of a hydroxylated fatty acid triglyceride and a diacid, more preferably oligomers of a hydroxylated fatty acid triglyceride and a saturated diacid.

[0067] Such an oligomeric ester is obtained by reacting a hydroxylated fatty acid triglyceride (such as hydrogenated castor oil) and a, preferably saturated, diacid.

[0068] A diacid is a hydrocarbon compound containing two carboxyl functional groups (COOH). A diacid can be a single diacid or a mixture of several diacids.

[0069] Similarly, the oligomeric ester can comprise a mixture of several oligomeric esters.

[0070] Preferred saturated diacids include in particular sebacic acid (or 1,8-decanedicarboxylic acid), succinic acid, adipic acid, azelaic acid, octadecanedioic acid and eicosadicarboxylic acid.

[0071] In particular, the oligomer ester can be an oligomer ester whose monomers are represented by the following triglyceride and diacid formulas (I) and (II): where

[0072] Ri is a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched alkylene group comprising 1 to 18 carbon atoms, R2 is a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched alkylene group with 1 to 12 carbon atoms, and X1 is a linear or branched alkylene group, such as a linear alkylene group - (CH2)x -, where x can vary from 1 to 30 and in particular from 3 to 15.

[0073] If the diacid is sebacic acid, then x is usually equal to 8.

[0074] The average degree of oligomerization of the oligomer ester can vary between 3 and 12, or between 4 and 10.

[0075] Oligomer esters of hydrogenated castor oil and sebacic acid are marketed by various suppliers (Croda, PolymerExpert) under different names depending on the degree of oligomerization. Such oligomer esters have the INCI name "Hydrogenated Castor Oil / Sebacic Acid Copolymer".

[0076] Hydrogenated castor oil contains hydrogenated triricinolein (a triglyceride of hydrogenated ricinoleic acid) as its main component. The OH groups at position 12 of two of the hydrogenated ricinoleic acid residues of triricinolein are esterified with a carboxyl group of the diacid.

[0077] Particularly preferred for use in the cosmetic oils according to the invention are the commercially available oligomer esters d) Crodabond® CSA (Croda) with the INCI name “Hydrogenated Castor Oil / Sebacic Acid Copolymer”, Estogel® M (PolymerExpert) with the INCI name “Castor Oil / IPDI Copolymer (and) Caprylic / Capric Triglyceride”, Estogel® Green (PolymerExpert) with the INCI name “Hydrogenated Castor Oil / Sebacic Acid Copolymer”, Estogel® Max (PolymerExpert) with the INCI name “Castor Oil / IPDI Copolymer (and) Caprylic / Capric Triglyceride (and) Hydrogenated Castor Oil / Sebacic Acid Copolymer”, Estogel® 40 (PolymerExpert) with the INCI name “Caprylic / Capric Triglyceride (and) Hydrogenated Castor 2024P00355WÖ

[0078] 8

[0079] Oil / Sebacic Acid Copolymer” and / or Bergacare® FG Gel (Alfa Chemicals) with the INCI name “Hydrogenated Ethylhexyl Olivate (and) Hydrogenated Castor oil / sebacic acid Copolymer (and) Hydrogenated Olive Oil Unsaponifiables”.

[0080] Particularly suitable for use in the silicone-free cosmetic oils according to the invention are oligomer esters d) with the INCI name “Hydrogenated Castor Oil / Sebacic Acid Copolymer”.

[0081] In a preferred embodiment, the cosmetic oils according to the invention contain at least one oligomeric ester with the INCI name "Hydrogenated Castor Oil / Sebacic Acid Copolymer" in a weight fraction of 0.1 to 10 wt.% of the total weight of the cosmetic oils. More preferred are 0.5 to 10 wt.%, and further preferred are 1 to 7.5 wt.% Hydrogenated Castor Oil / Sebacic Acid Copolymer.

[0082] Preferably, the silicone-free cosmetic oils according to the invention are formulated in such a way that easy removal and application by the user - for example by pumping - is ensured.

[0083] Preferably, the cosmetic oils defined herein have a viscosity in the range of 30 to 6,000 mPa·s. The viscosity is measured using a Brookfield DV-II viscometer, spindle 2, 3, or 4, at approximately 20 rpm and 20 °C. Preferred viscosity ranges for the silicone-free cosmetic oil according to the invention are:

[0084] 30 to 6,000 mPas

[0085] 30 to 5,500 mPas

[0086] 30 to 5,000 mPas

[0087] 35 to 5,000 mPas

[0088] 35 to 4,500 mPas

[0089] 35 to 4,000 mPas

[0090] 40 to 3,500 mPas.

[0091] For some applications, it may be advantageous if the cosmetic oils according to the invention contain, in addition to the branched ester oils a), at least one ester oil e) different from a) in a weight fraction of 10 to 40 wt.% of the total weight of the cosmetic oil. Suitable ester oils e) may preferably be selected from

[0092] (i) Compounds according to formula (I) wherein

[0093] Ri for an unbranched or branched, saturated or unsaturated Cn-C23 alkyl group, optionally substituted with one or more hydroxyl groups,

[0094] R2 represents a linear C2-Cio alkyl group and / or

[0095] (ii) dialkyl carbonates. 2024P00355WÖ

[0096] 9

[0097] Examples of suitable ester oils e)(i) are Coco caprate / caprylate , Ethyl macadamiate, Shea butter ethyl ester, Hexyl laurate, Isoamyl laurate, Cetostearyl nonanoate or mixtures thereof.

[0098] Ethyl macadamiate, hexyl laurate or mixtures thereof are particularly preferred.

[0099] Examples of suitable ester oils e)(ii) are in particular symmetrical carbonic acid diesters with linear or branched C6-C18 alcohols, for example the compounds known under the INCI names Dicaprylyl Carbonate, Diethylhexyl Carbonate and mixtures thereof.

[0100] In addition to the ingredients described above, the oils according to the invention may contain further active ingredients that give them advantageous properties, for example perfume oils, vitamins, UV filters, bisabolol and / or allantoin, antioxidants or mixtures thereof.

[0101] As conditioning agents, the oils according to the invention can also contain at least one vitamin, one provitamin, one vitamin precursor, and / or derivatives thereof. Vitamins, provitamins, and vitamin precursors that are typically assigned to groups A, B, C, E, F, and H are preferred. In particular, niacinamide (vitamin B3), panthenol (provitamin B5), and vitamin E (or a derivative thereof) are especially preferred.

[0102] If present, the vitamin component is present in an amount of up to 1% by weight of the total weight of the oil according to the invention. Preferably, the vitamin component is present in an amount in the range of 0.001–1% by weight, more preferably 0.005–1% by weight, and particularly preferably 0.01–1% by weight.

[0103] The oil disclosed herein may also contain a perfume. Preferably, a perfume is present in an amount in the range of 0.1 to 2 wt.%, preferably 0.2 to 1.5%, based on the weight of the hair oil.

[0104] The silicone-free cosmetic oil according to the invention is preferably substantially anhydrous. In the context of this disclosure, "substantially anhydrous" means that the cosmetic oil preferably contains less than 5% water by weight. More preferably, the cosmetic oil contains less than 3% by weight of water, more preferably less than 1% by weight of water, and most preferably less than 0.5% by weight of water. In some cases, the cosmetic oil contains no water at all.

[0105] The cosmetic oil according to the invention is normally not an emulsion. Preferably, the hair oil is a homogeneous hydrophobic hair oil that has a gel-like appearance. 2024P00355WÖ

[0106] 10

[0107] Preferably, the cosmetic oil according to the present invention is transparent.

[0108] In the context of this disclosure, "transparent" means that the composition is free of turbidity. The turbidity can be measured using the scattered radiation method described in ISO 7027-1:2016. Samples of the present invention were tested with the radiation from an LED at 860 nm. The measurement range was between 0.01 and 1000 NTU (nephelometric turbidity units).

[0109] The cosmetic oil according to the present invention is transparent in one embodiment, meaning that it has a turbidity of less than 15 NTU, preferably less than 10 NTU, as measured by the scattering method described in ISO 7027-1 :2016, using the radiation from an LED at 860 nm.

[0110] Preferably, the cosmetic oil is also free of microplastics.

[0111] Preferably, the silicone-free cosmetic oil according to the present invention is a leave-in oil. This means that the oil is not rinsed or washed off the hair, face, or body after application. Typically, such an oil is applied to the respective application area after cleansing the hair or body and optional conditioning.

[0112] The term "leave-in" means that the oil remains on the skin and / or hair until the next cleansing.

[0113] The present invention also provides for the use of a silicone-free cosmetic oil, as defined herein, for body and hair care.

[0114] Cosmetic oils according to the invention are preferably used by applying the oil to the hair, face or body and leaving it there.

[0115] Preferably, the oil is applied after cleaning and optional conditioning.

[0116] The silicone-free cosmetic oils according to the present invention can be produced by any suitable process. The process includes, for example:

[0117] 1. If necessary, heat all solids until a clear, homogeneous mixture is formed;

[0118] 2. Allow the mixture to cool.

[0119] 3. Add all remaining ingredients at a suitable temperature until the mixture is homogeneous. 2024P00355WÖ

[0120] 11

[0121] An expert knows which temperatures are required in steps 1 and 3, depending on the ingredients. The process might include, for example:

[0122] 1. If necessary, heat all solids to a temperature of 30 - 100°C until a clear, homogeneous mixture is formed;

[0123] 2. Allow the mixture to cool.

[0124] 3. Add all remaining ingredients at a temperature below 50 °C (or below 30 °C, depending on the ingredients) until the mixture is homogeneous.

[0125] As those skilled in the art will recognize, the process steps are expediently carried out in a water-free, explosion-proof, and stainless steel vessel. Preferably, the process takes place under stirring.

[0126] A second object of the invention is the use of a silicone-free cosmetic oil for body and hair care.

[0127] 2024P00355WÖ

[0128] 12

[0129] Examples:

[0130] The following examples are non-limiting examples of the present invention. Quantities are given in [wt.%]:

[0131] It has been found that the specific combination of a thickener (hydrogenated castor oil / sebacic acid copolymer) with branched oils (2-ethylhexyl palmitate, isopropyl stearate, 2-octyldodecanol) in combination with linear oils (dicaprylyl carbonate, hexyl laurate, ethyl macadamiate) achieves better care results than the combination of thickener and simple linear oil (e.g., Olea Europaea (olive) fruit oil). In this context, better care results are primarily understood to mean an improved, soft skin feel without greasy residue, as well as soft hair without being weighed down.

Claims

2024P00355WÖ 13 Patent claims:

1. Silicone-free cosmetic oil containing a) at least one ester oil b) at least one Ci2-Ö24 fatty alcohol c) at least one vegetable oil d) at least one oligomeric ester different from a. and c., characterized in that components a) and b) contain branched alkyl chains.

2. Silicone-free cosmetic oil according to claim 1, comprising: o Ester oil(s) a) in a weight fraction of 30 to 70 wt.% o Fatty alcohol(s) b) in a weight fraction of 10 to 40 wt.% o Vegetable oil(s) c) in a weight fraction of 0.001 to 10 wt.% o Oligomer esters d) in a weight fraction of 0.1 to 10 wt.%, wherein all weight fractions refer to the total weight of the cosmetic oil.

3. Silicone-free cosmetic oil according to one of claims 1 or 2, wherein ester oils a) are selected from compounds of the following formula (I) wherein Ri for an unbranched or branched, saturated or unsaturated O9-O23 alkyl group, optionally substituted with one or more hydroxyl groups, and R2 represents a branched O3-O2o alkyl group.

4. Silicone-free cosmetic oil according to any of the preceding claims, wherein ester oils a) are selected from isopropyl isononanoate, isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, isopropyl stearate, isopropyl isostearate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, 2-ethylhexyl stearate, 2-ethylhexyl cocoate, 2-ethylhexyl isononanoate, isodecyl neopentanoate or mixtures thereof.

5. Silicone-free cosmetic oil according to any of the preceding claims, wherein fatty alcohols b) are selected from 2-butyldodecanol, 2-hexyldodecanol, 2-octyldodecanol, 2-hexyldecanol, 2-ethylhexyldecanol, isostearyl alcohol or mixtures thereof.

6. Silicone-free cosmetic oil according to any of the preceding claims, comprising 2024P00355WÖ 14 vegetable oils c), which have a linoleic acid content of at least 50%.

7. Silicone-free cosmetic oil according to any of the preceding claims, wherein the oligomer ester d) contains at least one oligomer ester of a hydroxylated fatty acid triglyceride and a saturated diacid.

8. Silicone-free cosmetic oil according to any of the preceding claims, wherein the oligomer ester d) contains at least one oligomer ester with the INCI name Hydrogenated Castor Oil / Sebacic Acid Copolymer.

9. Silicone-free cosmetic oil according to any of the preceding claims, further comprising at least one ester oil other than a) e) in a weight fraction of 10 to 40 wt.% of the total weight of the cosmetic oil, wherein the ester oil(s) e) are selected from compounds according to formula (I), wherein Ri represents an unbranched or branched, saturated or unsaturated Cn-C23 alkyl group, optionally substituted with one or more hydroxyl groups, R2 represents a linear C2-Cio alkyl group and / or dialkyl carbonates.

10. Use of a silicone-free cosmetic oil according to any of the preceding claims for body and hair care.

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