Compositions comprising organic UV filters and guanine

Abstract

The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition for the skin and / or lips, comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium, at least: (i) guanine, in a content greater than or equal to 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, and (ii) one or more organic UV filters.

Description

[0001] Compositions with organic UV filters and guanine

[0002] FIELD OF INVENTION

[0003] The present invention relates to the field of cosmetic compositions for skincare and / or makeup of keratinous materials, comprising organic UV filters and guanine.

[0004] STATE OF THE ART

[0005] It is known that daily exposure to ultraviolet (UV) rays, even of short duration and under normal conditions, can lead to skin browning and / or irregular pigmentation (e.g., brown spots, uneven skin tone), but also to a degradation of collagen and elastin fibers resulting in a change in the skin's microrelief and the appearance of signs of aging (e.g., wrinkles...).

[0006] Applying sunscreen daily is essential both for preventing sunburn and protecting the skin from UVA / UVB rays. Numerous formulations designed for photoprotection (UV-A and / or UV-B) of the skin have therefore been developed to date, including water-soluble and / or oil-soluble organic UV filters and / or inorganic UV filters capable of selectively absorbing UV radiation. These filters (and their concentrations) are selected primarily based on the desired Sun Protection Factor (SPF), which measures the level of protection against UVB rays. SPF is defined as the ratio between the amount of energy required to produce minimal erythema on skin protected by sunscreen and the amount of energy required to produce the same level of erythema on unprotected skin.Choosing a sunscreen with an appropriate SPF also helps to optimize the beauty and longevity of the tan.

[0007] However, organic UV filters can lead to a loss of sensory appeal, a greasy and / or sticky feeling, especially when used in high concentrations. Furthermore, it is difficult to achieve a high SPF without the simultaneous presence of inorganic UV filters.

[0008] Therefore, there remains a need to develop new cosmetic products that provide good protection through the presence of organic UV filters, and even without the presence of inorganic UV filters.

[0009] The Applicant has developed a composition that meets these expectations. She has unexpectedly demonstrated that the use of guanine, in an insoluble form, improves the protective effect provided by organic UV filters (also referred to as an 'SPF booster' effect) and consequently reduces the amount of organic UV filters in the composition, which are known for their greasy / sticky effect. STATEMENT OF THE INVENTION

[0010] The present invention therefore relates in particular to a cosmetic composition for the skin and / or lips comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium, at least:

[0011] (i) guanine, in a content greater than or equal to 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, and

[0012] (ii) one or more organic UV filters.

[0013] The use of guanine, at a concentration of 2% or more by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, in combination with organic UV filters, allows for a reduction in the amount of organic UV filters required in the formula while maintaining a comparable SPF. Furthermore, unlike conventional organic UV filters, guanine is readily biodegradable and non-bioaccumulative, resulting in a lower environmental impact.

[0014] Thus, the combination according to the invention of guanine at a concentration of 2% or more by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, with organic UV filters, provides good sun protection without affecting the sensory properties of the composition related to the organic UV filters, which are known for their greasy and / or sticky effect. The combination according to the invention therefore provides good sun protection, even without inorganic UV filters.

[0015] The invention also relates to a non-therapeutic cosmetic process for skin and / or lip care and / or makeup, comprising the application to said skin and / or lips of a composition as defined according to the invention.

[0016] Another object of the invention is the use of guanine in a content greater than or equal to 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, in a composition comprising one or more organic UV filters, as an agent to improve (also said to 'boost') the protection of keratinous materials against UV radiation and / or to reduce the greasy and / or sticky appearance of said composition containing organic UV filters.

[0017] The invention also relates to a composition comprising guanine in a content greater than or equal to 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, and one or more organic UV filters, for use in the prevention and / or treatment of the harmful effects of ultraviolet radiation on the skin and / or lips. DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION

[0018] A first object of the invention is therefore a cosmetic composition for the skin and / or lips comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium, at least:

[0019] (i) guanine, in a content greater than or equal to 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, and

[0020] (ii) one or more organic UV filters.

[0021] According to a particular method, the guanine content will be greater than 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0022] By "cosmetic composition" we mean any composition intended for cosmetic purposes, that is to say aesthetic purposes, which may be brought into contact with the superficial parts of the human body and more particularly with keratinous materials, in particular human skin and / or lips.

[0023] By "physiologically acceptable medium" we mean any excipient suitable for topical use, in contact with keratinous materials, without risk of toxicity, incompatibility, instability and / or allergic response.

[0024] According to the invention, "keratinous materials" refers to skin and / or its appendages, and more particularly to human skin and / or lips. Specifically, this includes skin of the face, neck, and / or body, and lips. The keratinous materials in the context of the invention are healthy, that is, free from any disorders or abnormalities indicative of a pathological condition (i.e., subjects who are "unhealthy" or suffering from a pathology). The terms "healthy skin" and / or "lips" will be used interchangeably throughout this description.

[0025] Guanine

[0026] Guanine (Cl 75170) is generally in the form of a white to light yellow powder. The guanine used in the composition according to the invention is insoluble.

[0027] The term 'insoluble', according to the invention, refers to guanine in the form of particles that are insoluble in water, ethanol, or water / ethanol mixtures in any proportion, at a concentration of 0.5% by weight, at room temperature (25°C). This is also referred to as guanine particles or particulate or powdered guanine, distinct from a guanine solution in which the guanine is solubilized in an aqueous solution containing a base, such as sodium hydroxide.

[0028] Due to its insoluble form, the guanine in the present invention will generally be dispersed in a dispersant and / or a wetting agent and ground, for example, in a three-roll mill. Therefore, 'guanine' in the remainder of the description refers to an insoluble and unsolubilized form of guanine.

[0029] The guanine content in the composition of the invention shall be greater than or equal to 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0030] The guanine content will range from 2 to 20%, in particular from 3 to 10% by weight, preferably from 4 to 8% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0031] Guanine particles are advantageously dispersed in a dispersant and / or wetting agent and ground, for example, in a three-roll mill.

[0032] Examples of dispersing and / or wetting agents include lecithins, fatty acids such as stearic acid or hydroxystearic acid, fatty acid triglycerides such as caprylic / capric triglycerides, polyglycerol and fatty acid esters such as polyglyceryl-3 polyricinoleate, and mixtures thereof.

[0033] One example is the commercial reference APPLECARE PDS-300 MB with the NCI name: POLYHYDROXYSTEARIC ACID (and) CAPRYLIC / CAPRIC TRIGLYCERIDE (and) ISOSTEARIC ACID (and) LECITHIN (and) POLYGLYCERYL-3 POLYRICINOLEATE from the company DKSH.

[0034] The composition of the invention further comprises one or more organic UV filters.

[0035] Organic UV filters

[0036] The composition according to the invention comprises one or more organic UV filters.

[0037] Organic UV filters can be chosen from among lipophilic organic UV filters, water-soluble organic UV filters, and mixtures thereof.

[0038] By "organic liposoluble or lipophilic UV filter" we mean any organic compound that filters UV radiation, capable of being completely dissolved in molecular form or miscible in a liquid oil phase or of being solubilized in colloidal form (for example in micellar form) in a liquid oil phase.

[0039] A "water-soluble or hydrophilic organic UV filter" refers to any organic compound that filters UV radiation and is capable of being completely dissolved at the molecular level or miscible in a liquid aqueous phase, or of being solubilized in colloidal form (e.g., micellar water) in a liquid aqueous phase. A person skilled in the art will adjust the pH according to the hydrophilic UV filter used, remaining within pH ranges suitable for topical application to the skin and / or lips, for example, pH 6 to 9.

[0040] The composition according to the invention shall include, in particular, at least one organic UVB filter. It may also include at least one organic UVA filter.

[0041] By "organic UVB filter", we mean any organic chemical molecule capable of exclusively absorbing UVB radiation in the wavelength range between 280 and 320 nm.

[0042] By "organic UVA filter" we mean any organic chemical molecule capable of absorbing at least UVA radiation in the wavelength range between 320 and 400 nm; said molecule also being able to absorb UVB radiation in the wavelength range between 280 and 320 nm.

[0043] UV filters

[0044]

[0045] According to a particular mode, the composition of the invention comprises at least one lipophilic organic UV filter.

[0046] In particular, the composition will include one, two, or three lipophilic organic UV filters.

[0047] Lipophilic organic UV filters are chosen from among cinnamic derivatives; salicylic derivatives; dibenzoylmethane derivatives; benzophenone derivatives; p,p-diphenylacrylate derivatives; triazine derivatives, and mixtures thereof. Other examples include anthranilates; camphor derivatives; benzotriazole derivatives; benzalmalonate derivatives; imidazolines; p-aminobenzoic acid (PABA) derivatives; benzoxazole derivatives; filter polymers and silicone filters; α-alkylstyrene dimers; 4,4-diarylbutadiene; and merocyanin derivatives and mixtures thereof.

[0048] According to a particular and preferred mode, the composition according to the invention comprises one or more lipophilic organic UV filters selected from the group consisting of cinnamyl derivatives; salicylyl derivatives, dibenzoylmethane derivatives, benzophenone derivatives; p,p-diphenylacrylate derivatives; triazine derivatives, and mixtures thereof.

[0049] Lipophilic organic UVB filters are notably chosen from

[0050] p,p-diphenylacrylate or α-cyano-p,p-diphenylacrylate derivatives

[0051] salicylic derivatives

[0052] cinnamyl derivatives

[0053] triazine derivatives filtering only UVB radiation;

[0054] and their mixtures.

[0055] The lipophilic organic UVA filters according to the invention are in particular selected from:

[0056] dibenzoylmethane derivatives

[0057] benzophenone derivatives,

[0058] and their mixtures.

[0059] Examples of lipophilic organic UV filters include those listed below by their INCI names:

[0060] Cinnamic derivatives

[0061] Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate or Octyl Methoxicinnamate, sold notably under the trade name "PARSOL MCX ®" by DSM Nutritional Products or ASHLAND

[0062] Isopropyl Methoxycinnamate

[0063] Isoamyl p-Methoxycinnamate sold under the trade name NEO HELIOPAN E 1000 ® by Symrise

[0064] DEA Methoxycinnamate

[0065] Diisopropyl Methylcinnamate

[0066] Glyceryl Ethylhexanoate Dimethoxycinnamate. Derivatives

[0067] Homosalate is sold under the name "Eusolex HMS®" by Rona / EM Industries, or under the name "Parsol HMS" by DSM.

[0068] Ethylhexyl Salicylate (EHS) sold under the name "NEO HELIOPAN OS®" by Symrise, or under the name "ESCALOL 587" by ASHLAND

[0069] Dipropylene glycol salicylate sold under the name "DIPSAL ®" by SCHER,

[0070] TEA Salicylate, sold under the name "NEO HELIOPAN TS®" by Symrise

[0071] Derivatives of di

[0072]

[0073] Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane sold notably under the trade name "PARSOL 1789®" by DSM Nutritional Products, Inc;

[0074] β-Diphenylacrylate Derivatives

[0075] Octocrylene, sold notably under the trade name "UVINIIL N 539®" by BASF, or under the trade name "EUSOLEX OCR" by MERCK

[0076] Etocrylene, sold notably under the trade name "UVINIIL N 35®" by BASF.

[0077] Derivatives of the

[0078]

[0079] Benzophenone-1 sold under the trade name "UVINUL 400®" by BASF, Benzophenone-2 sold under the trade name "UVINUL D 50®" by BASF, Benzophenone-3 or Oxybenzone, sold under the trade name "UVINUL M 40®" by BASF,

[0080] Benzophenone-4 sold under the trade name "UVINUL MS 40®" by BASF, Benzophenone-5

[0081] Benzophenone-6 sold under the trade name "Helisorb 11®" by Norquay; Benzophenone-8 sold under the trade name "Spectra-Sorb UV-24®" by American Cyanamide

[0082] Benzophenone-9 sold under the trade name "UVINUL DS 49®" by BASF, Benzophenone-12

[0083] n-hexyl 2-(4-diethylamino-2-hydroxybenzoyl)-benzoate sold under the trade name "UVINUL A Plus ®" under the name "UVINUL A Plus Granular®" or in mixture with octylmethoxycinnamate under the trade name "UVINUL A Plus B®" by BASF, 1,1'-(1,4-piperazinediyl)bis[1-[2-[4-(diethylamino)-2-hydroxybenzoyl]phenyl]-methanone (CAS 919803-06-8) as described in application W02007 / 071584; this compound being advantageously used in micronized form (average size of 0.02 to 2 pm) which can be obtained for example by the micronization process described in applications GB-A-2 303 549 and EP-A-893119 and in particular in aqueous dispersion form. Triazine derivatives

[0084] - Bis-Ethylhexyloxyphenol Methoxyphenyl Triazine sold under the trade name "TINOSORB S®" by BASF,

[0085] - Ethylhexyl Triazone, sold notably under the trade name "UVINIIL T150®" by BASF,

[0086] - Diethylhexyl Butamido Triazone vendu sous le nom commercial « UVASORB HEB ®» par SIGMA 3V,

[0087] - 2,4,6-tris(4’-amino benzalmalonate de dinéopentyle)-s-triazine,

[0088] - 2,4,6-tris-(4’-amino benzalmalonate de diisobutyle)-s- triazine,

[0089] - 2,4-bis (4’-aminobenzoate de n-butyle)-6-(aminopropyltrisiloxane)-s-triazine,

[0090] - 2,4-bis (4’-aminobenzalmalonate de dinéopentyle)-6-(4’-aminobenzoate de n-butyle)-s-triazine,

[0091] - Symmetrical triazine filters substituted with naphthalenyl groups or polyphenyl groups described in US patent 6,225,467, application W02004 / 085412 (see compounds 6 and 9) or the document "Symetrical Triazine Derivatives" IP. COM IPCOM000031257 Journal, INC WEST HENRIETTA, NY, US (September 20, 2004) in particular 2,4,6-tris(di-phenyl)-triazine and 2,4,6-tris(ter-phenyl)-triazine which is included in patent applications W006 / 035000, WO06 / 034982, W006 / 034991, W006 / 035007, W02006 / 034992, W02006 / 034985, these compounds being advantageously used in micronized form (average particle size of 0.02 to 3 pm) which can be obtained for example by the micronization process described in applications GB-A-2303549 and EP-A-893119 and in particular in aqueous dispersion;

[0092] - triazine silicones substituted by two aminobenzoate groups as described in patent EP0841341 in particular 2,4-bis-(n-butyl 4'-aminobenzalmalonate)-6-[(3-{1,3,3,3-tetramethyl-1-[(trimethylsilyloxy]disiloxanyl}propyl)amino]-s-triazine.

[0093] Other examples of lipophilic organic UV filters include:

[0094] Derivatives of para-aminobenzoic acid:

[0095] Ethyl PABA

[0096] Ethyl Dihydroxypropyl PABA

[0097] Ethylhexyl Dimethyl PABA, sold notably under the name "ESCALOL 507" by ISP.

[0098] Benzylidene camphor derivatives:

[0099] 3-Benzylidene camphor manufactured under the name "MEXORYL SD" by CHIMEX,

[0100] 4-Methylbenzylidene camphor sold under the name "EUSOLEX 6300" by MERCK, Polyacrylamidomethyl Benzylidene Camphor manufactured under the name "MEXORYL SW" by CHIMEX,

[0101] Phenylbenzotriazole derivatives:

[0102] Drometrizole Trisiloxane sold under the name "Silatrizole" by RHODIA CHIMIE,

[0103] Anthranil derivatives:

[0104] Menthyl anthranilate sold under the trade name "NEO HELIOPAN MA" by SYMRISE,

[0105] Imidazoline derivatives:

[0106] Ethylhexyl Dimethoxybenzylidene Dioxoimidazoline Propionate,

[0107] Benzalmalonate derivatives:

[0108] Di-neopentyl 4'-methoxybenzalmalonate

[0109] Benzalmalonate-functionalized polyorganosiloxanes such as Polysilicone-15 sold under the trade name "PARSOL SLX" by DSM

[0110] 4,4-Diarylbutadiene derivatives:

[0111] 1,1-dicarboxy (2,2'-dimethyl-propyl)-4,4-diphenylbutadiene

[0112] Benzoxazole derivatives:

[0113] 2,4-bis-[5-1(dimethylpropyl)benzoxazol-2-yl-(4-phenyl)-imino]-6-(2-ethylhexyl)-imino-1,3,5-triazine sold under the name Uvasorb K2A by Sigma 3V

[0114] and their mixtures.

[0115] Derivatives of

[0116]

[0117] - Octyl-5-N, N-diethylamino-2-phenysulfonyl-2,4-pentadienoate

[0118] and their mixtures.

[0119] Preferred organic filters are chosen from

[0120] Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane

[0121] Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate or Octyl Methoxycinnamate

[0122] Ethylhexyl Salicylate or Octylsalicylate,

[0123] Octocrylene, Homosalate or Homomenthyl salicylate

[0124] Benzophenone-3

[0125] Benzophenone-4

[0126] Diethyl amino Hydroxybenzoyl Hexyl Benzoate,

[0127] Ethyl Hexyl triazone,

[0128] Bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine (BEMT),

[0129] Drometrizole trixiloxane

[0130] and their mixtures.

[0131] Hydrophilic organic UV filters

[0132] The composition may further include one or more hydrophilic organic UV filters. For the purposes of this invention, a hydrophilic organic UV filter is defined as a water-soluble organic UV filter.

[0133] By "water-soluble organic filter" we mean any organic filter capable of being totally dissolved in molecular form in a liquid aqueous phase, or of being dissolved in colloidal form (for example in micellar form) in a liquid aqueous phase.

[0134] Examples of water-soluble organic UVB filters include water-soluble cinnamic derivatives such as ferulic acid or 3-methoxy-4-hydroxycinnamic acid; water-soluble benzylidene camphor compounds; water-soluble phenylbenzimidazole compounds; water-soluble p-aminobenzoic compounds (PABA); water-soluble salicylic compounds, and mixtures thereof.

[0135] In particular, we can cite phenyl benzimidazole compounds, such as 2-phenyl-1H-benzimidazole-5-sulfonic acid (INCI name: phenylbenzimidazole sulfonic acid) sold notably under the trade name "EUSOLEX 232®" by MERCK or "PARSOL® HS" by DSM.

[0136] Examples of water-soluble organic UVA filters include Diethyl amino Hydroxybenzoyl Hexyl Benzoate, benzene 1,4-di(3-methylidene-10-camphosulfonic acid) (INCI name: Terephthalylidene Dicamphor Sulfonic Acid) and its various salts, described in particular in patent applications FR-A-2528420 and FR-A-2639347. Benzene 1,4-di(3-methylidene-10-camphosulfonic acid) (INCI name Terephthalylidene Dicamphor Sulfonic Acid) such as that manufactured under the name "MEXORYL® SX" by the company NOVEAL can also be mentioned.

[0137] According to a particular and advantageous mode, the composition of the invention shall comprise at least one lipophilic organic UVB filter and at least one additional organic UV filter selected from a hydrophilic organic UVB filter, a hydrophilic organic UVA filter, a lipophilic organic UVA filter, and mixtures thereof.

[0138] In particular, the composition of the invention may include at least one lipophilic organic UVB filter and at least one hydrophilic organic UVB filter.

[0139] In particular, the composition of the invention may include at least one lipophilic organic UVB filter and at least one hydrophilic organic UVA filter.

[0140] According to a particular method, the organic UV filters in the composition of the invention are selected from among cinnamic derivatives; salicylic derivatives, dibenzoylmethane derivatives, benzophenone derivatives; p,p-diphenylacrylate derivatives; triazine derivatives, anthranilates; camphor derivatives; benzotriazole derivatives; benzalmalonate derivatives; imidazolines; p-aminobenzoic acid (PABA) derivatives; benzoxazole derivatives; α-alkylstyrene derivative dimers; 4,4-diarylbutadiene; merocyanine derivatives, merocyanins, phenyl benzimidazole compounds, Diethyl amino Hydroxybenzoyl Hexyl Benzoate (DHHB), Terephthalylidene Dicamphor Sulfonic Acid (TDSA), and mixtures thereof, and in particular: lipophilic UVB filters are selected from the group consisting of cinnamic derivatives; salicylic derivatives; β,β-diphenyl acrylate derivatives;triazine derivatives, phenyl benzotriazole derivatives, and mixtures thereof;

[0141] hydrophilic UVB filters are chosen from water-soluble phenylbenzimidazole compounds;

[0142] Hydrophilic UVA filters are selected from Diethyl amino Hydroxybenzoyl Hexyl Benzoate (DHBB), terephthalylidene dicamphor sulfonic acid (TDSA), and mixtures thereof, and

[0143] Lipophilic UVA filters are selected from benzophenone derivatives, dibenzoylmethane derivatives, and mixtures thereof. Preferred filter combinations are described below, and some are illustrated in the examples:

[0144] a salicylic acid derivative (lipophilic UVB) and a phenyl benzimidazole compound (hydrophilic UVB), in particular the combination of UVB filters with the respective INCI names: ETHYLHEXYL SALICYLATE and PHENYLBENZIMIDAZOLE SULFONIC ACID (PARSOL HS); a cinnamic acid derivative (lipophilic UVB) and a phenyl benzimidazole compound (hydrophilic UVB), in particular the combination of UVB filters with the respective INCI names: ETHYLHEXYL METHOXYCINNAMATE, BHT and PHENYLBENZIMIDAZOLE SULFONIC ACID (PARSOL HS);

[0145] a salicylic acid derivative (lipophilic UVB), a phenyl benzimidazole compound (hydrophilic UVB), and a dibenzoylmethane derivative (lipophilic UVA), in particular the combination of UVB and UVA filters with respective INCI names: ETHYLHEXYL SALICYLATE, PHENYLBENZIMIDAZOLE SULFONIC ACID (PARSOL HS) and BUTYL METHOXYDIBENZOYLMETHANE;

[0146] a derivative of β, β -diphenylacrylate (lipophilic UVB), a phenyl benzimidazole compound (hydrophilic UVB), and a dibenzoylmethane derivative (lipophilic UVA), in particular the combination of UVB and UVA filters with respective INCI names: OCTOCRYLENE, PHENYLBENZIMIDAZOLE SULFONIC ACID (PARSOL HS) and BUTYL METHOXYDIBENZOYLMETHANE;

[0147] two triazine derivatives (lipophilic UVB) and benzene 1,4-di(3-methylidene-10-camphosulfonic acid) (hydrophilic UVA), in particular the combination of UVB and UVA filters with respective INCI names: bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine (BEMT), ethylhexyl triazone (EHT) and terephthalylidene dicamphor sulfonic acid (TDSA); and a phenyl benzotriazole derivative (lipophilic UVB), a triazine derivative (lipophilic UVB) and a benzophenone derivative (lipophilic UVA), in particular the combination of UVB and UVA filters with respective INCI names: drometrizole trisiloxane (DTS), ethylhexyl triazone (EHT), diethylamino hydroxybenzoyl hexyl benzoate (DHHB).

[0148] Thus, according to a particular and preferred method, the composition includes at least:

[0149] a lipophilic organic UVB filter, in particular selected from salicylic acid derivatives, cinnamic acid derivatives, β,β-diphenyl acrylate derivatives, triazine derivatives, phenyl benzotriazole derivatives, and mixtures thereof, and advantageously in addition at least one further organic UV filter selected from:

[0150] hydrophilic organic UVB filters, in particular a phenyl benzimidazole compound,

[0151] lipophilic organic UVA filters, in particular a dibenzoylmethane derivative or a benzophenone derivative, hydrophilic organic UVA filters, in particular Diethyl amino Hydroxybenzoyl Hexyl Benzoate (DHHB) or terephthalylidene dicamphor sulfonic acid (TDSA)

[0152] and their mixtures.

[0153] The total content of organic UV filters in the composition of the invention shall range from 2% to 20% by weight, in particular from 5% to 20% and especially from 5% to 15% by weight, or even from 8% to 12% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0154] The composition of the invention shall in particular have an SPF of at least 15, in particular of at least 20, or even of at least 30, of at least 40 and better of at least 50.

[0155] For skincare compositions, and especially sunscreen compositions, an SPF of 10 to 50 is preferable, particularly 10 to 30, and ideally 15 to 30. For makeup compositions, such as foundations, an SPF of 5 to 15 is preferable.

[0156] In a specific manner, the sun protection factor (SPF) is determined in vitro by a protocol based on the method described in the publication: Validation of an in vitro sun protection factor (SPF) method in blinded ring-testing. Pissavini, M., et al.. (2018), Int J Cosmet Sci, 40: 263-268. (https: / / doi.org / 10.1111 / ics.12459).

[0157] The plate is the material onto which the sun protection composition is applied. For this protocol, polymethyl methacrylate (PMMA) plates proved ideal.

[0158] As described in the examples below, each formula is applied to 3 PMMA HD6 plates (HelioScreen) and 3 PMMA SB6 plates (HelioScreen), at rates of 1.3 and 1.2 mg / cm² respectively. Spreading is carried out using the HD-SpreadMaster robot (HelioScreen; the application probe is covered with a nitrile finger cot pre-saturated with the product).

[0159] To measure a blank spectrum, one plate of each type was prepared with 15 µL of petroleum jelly. Absorbance measurements were performed using an OL756 spectroradiometer (OPTRONICS LABORATORIES). The in vitro FPS was then calculated using the following formula:

[0160] A Initial(λ)

[0161]

[0162] in which

[0163] E(A) = erythemal action spectrum described by the CIE

[0164] I (A) = Global spectral irradiance at 40°N, midday, mid-summer;

[0165] dλ = No measurement (1nm)

[0166] Initial A(λ) = C HD6 HAS HD6 (λ) + C SB6 HAS SB6 (λ)

[0167] with

[0168] CHD6 = 0.225

[0169] CSB6 = 0.800

[0170] The evaluation of the Sun Protection Factor (SPF) of compositions can also be carried out in-vivo according to the ISO / EN 24444 protocol "Cosmetics-Sun protection test methods-In-vivo determination of the sun protection factor (SPF) (2010)".

[0171] The person skilled in the art will adjust accordingly the respective contents of organic UV filters and guanine, to achieve this SPF protection performance while reducing the greasy and / or sticky appearance of the composition or the film applied to the skin linked to the presence of organic UV filters, particularly when they are present in a significant content, for example greater than or equal to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0172] Thus, for a skincare composition, particularly a sunscreen, the total organic FUV content will generally range from 5 to 20% by weight, specifically from 8 to 12% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0173] And the guanine content will generally range from 2 to 20% by weight, specifically from 3 to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition

[0174] Thus, for a makeup composition, particularly foundation, the total organic FUV content will generally range from 2 to 15% by weight, specifically from 3 to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0175] And the guanine content will generally range from 2 to 20% by weight, specifically from 3 to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition

[0176] In a particular and preferred embodiment of the invention, the composition of the invention will not contain inorganic UV filters (which tend to make the composition opaque). The combination according to the invention therefore makes it possible to have transparent compositions with good sun protection and good sensory qualities, even in the absence of inorganic UV filters.

[0177] According to a particular method, the composition according to the invention shall comprise at least: (i) Guanine, in a content greater than or equal to 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition,

[0178] (ii) One or more lipophilic organic UVB filters, and

[0179] (iii) Advantageously, in addition, at least one additional organic UV filter, selected from hydrophilic organic UVB filters, lipophilic organic UVA filters, hydrophilic organic UVA filters, and mixtures thereof.

[0180] According to a particular method, the composition according to the invention shall comprise at least:

[0181] (i) Guanine, in a content greater than or equal to 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition,

[0182] (ii) a lipophilic organic UVB filter, in particular selected from salicylic acid derivatives, cinnamic acid derivatives, β,β-diphenyl acrylate derivatives, triazine derivatives, phenyl benzotriazole derivatives, and mixtures thereof, and (iii) advantageously in addition at least one further organic UV filter selected from:

[0183] hydrophilic organic UVB filters, in particular a phenyl benzimidazole compound,

[0184] lipophilic organic UVA filters, in particular a dibenzoylmethane derivative or a benzophenone derivative,

[0185] hydrophilic organic UVA filters, in particular Diethyl amino Hydroxybenzoyl Hexyl Benzoate (DHHB) or terephthalylidene dicamphor sulfonic acid (TDSA),

[0186] and their mixtures.

[0187] According to a particular method, the skincare or sun care composition according to the invention shall comprise at least:

[0188] (i) Guanine, in a content ranging from 2 to 20%, preferably from 3 to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition,

[0189] (ii) One or more lipophilic organic UVB filters, preferably selected from p,p-diphenylacrylate derivatives, triazine derivatives, salicylic acid derivatives, in a total content of 2 to 20% by weight, preferably 5 to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, and

[0190] (iii) Advantageously, in addition, at least one additional organic UV filter, selected from:

[0191] Hydrophilic organic UVB filters, preferably chosen from phenyl benzimidazole compounds; Hydrophilic organic UVA filters, preferably Diethyl amino Hydroxybenzoyl Hexyl Benzoate (DHHB) or terephthalylidene dicamphor sulfonic acid (TDSA),

[0192] And their mixtures.

[0193] Such a composition according to the invention, in particular when it contains from 5 to 20% by weight of organic UFUs, in particular from 5 to 15% by weight, or even 8 to 12%, will generally have an SPF ranging from 10 to 30 and preferably from 15 to 30.

[0194] According to a particular method, the makeup composition according to the invention shall comprise at least:

[0195] (i) Guanine, in a content of 2 to 20%, preferably 3 to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition,

[0196] (ii) One or more lipophilic organic UVB filters, preferably selected from cinnamic acid derivatives, salicylic acid derivatives, and mixtures thereof, in a total content of 2 to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, and

[0197] (iii) Advantageously, in addition, at least one additional organic UV filter selected from hydrophilic organic UVB filters, preferably selected from phenyl benzimidazole compounds.

[0198] Such a composition according to the invention will generally have an SPF ranging from 5 to 15.

[0199] Oily phase

[0200] The composition of the invention comprises at least one oily phase.

[0201] The term "oily phase" refers to an oil or a mixture of miscible oils. "Oil" is defined as a fatty substance, insoluble in water, and liquid at 25°C and atmospheric pressure.

[0202] The oils can be chosen from hydrocarbon oils, silicone oils and their mixtures.

[0203] According to the invention, "hydrocarbon oil" means an oil containing mainly hydrogen and carbon atoms.

[0204] According to the invention, "siliconized oil" means an oil comprising at least one silicon atom, and in particular at least one Si-O group.

[0205] Preferably, hydrocarbon oils should be used.

[0206] Examples include linear or branched C8-C19 alkanes, selected vegetable hydrocarbon oils, and synthetic C19 ethers. 10 -C 40 , synthetic C esters 10 -C 40 , fatty alcohols in C 12 -C 26 , the higher C fatty acids 12 -C 22 , and their mixtures.

[0207] According to a particular and preferred mode, the composition comprises one or more linear or branched C8-C19 alkanes, in particular:

[0208] C8-C16 isoalkanes (also called isoparaffins) such as isododecane, isodecane, isohexadecane, and for example oils sold under the trade names ISOPAR® or PERMETYL®,

[0209] linear alkanes having hydrocarbon chains in

[0210] - C9-C17, C10-C14, C11-C13 such as a mixture of undecane and tridecane, marketed by BASF Care Creations under the name Cetiol® Ultimate,

[0211] - C9-C12, C12-C14, such as those marketed by BIOSYNTHIS under the name VEGELIGHT® SILK (INCI name 09-12 ALKANE), VEGELIGHT® 1214LC,

[0212] - n-dodecane (C12) and n-tetradecane (C14), notably sold by Sasol under the references PARAFOL® 12-97 and PARAFOL® 14-97 respectively, and

[0213] - C15-C19, such as those marketed by Seppic under the name EMOGREEN® L15, and their mixtures.

[0214] According to a preferred mode, the composition comprises at least one mixture of alkanes selected from a mixture of C9-C12 alkanes, a mixture of C15-C19 alkanes, and mixtures thereof.

[0215] According to another particular method, the composition will include at least one ester oil.

[0216] Among the "ester oils" (polar), we can notably mention:

[0217] - hydroxylated esters, preferably having a total number of carbons from 35 to 70, such as polyglycerol-2 triisostearate, isostearyl lactate, octyldodecyl hydroxystearate, diisostearyl malate, propyl gallate; glycerin stearate; diethylene glycol diisononanoate;

[0218] - fatty acid esters, in particular those with 4 to 22 carbon atoms,

[0219] - synthetic esters such as oils with the formula R1COOR2, in which Ri represents the remainder of a linear or branched fatty acid containing 4 to 40 carbon atoms and R2 represents a hydrocarbon chain, particularly a branched one, containing 4 to 40 carbon atoms, provided that R1+R2 is >16, such as isononyl isononanoate, ethyl 2-hexyl palmitate, octyldodecyl neopentanoate, octyl-2-dodecyl stearate, isostearyl isostearate, octyl-2-dodecyl benzoate, isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, butyl stearate, hexyl laurate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, 2-hexyldecyl laurate, palmitate 2-Octyl-decyl, 2-Octyldodecyl myristate, 2-Diethyl-hexyl succinate; - linear fatty acid esters having a total number of carbons from 35 to 70;

[0220] - esters of aromatic acids and alcohols comprising 4 to 22 atoms;

[0221] - esters of fatty alcohols or C24-C28 branched fatty acids;

[0222] - polyesters resulting from the esterification of at least one hydroxylated carboxylic acid(s) triglyceride by an aliphatic monocarboxylic acid and by an aliphatic dicarboxylic acid, possibly unsaturated;

[0223] and their mixtures.

[0224] According to a particular and preferred embodiment, the composition of the invention comprises at least one mixture of alkanes selected from C9-C12 or C15-C19 mixtures and an ester oil. The following references may be cited in particular:

[0225] - VEGELIGHT 1214 LC D, INCI name: C9-12 ALKANE and COCO-CAPRYLATE / CAPRATE, from the company BIOSYNTHIS,

[0226] - CETIOL C 5C MB, NCI name: COCO-CAPRYLATE / CAPRATE and TOCOPHEROL, from the company BASF,

[0227] and preferably a mixture of them.

[0228] The oily phase of the composition according to the invention shall generally represent 20 to 55% by weight, preferably 30 to 45% by weight relative to the total weight of said composition.

[0229] Aqueous phase

[0230] The composition of the invention generally also includes an aqueous phase.

[0231] The aqueous phase of the composition comprises water and possibly a water-soluble solvent.

[0232] The term 'water-soluble solvent' according to the invention means a compound that is liquid at room temperature and miscible with water (miscibility in water greater than 50% by weight at 25°C and atmospheric pressure). Examples include:

[0233] - lower C1-C5 monoalcohols such as ethanol, isopropanol and their mixtures, preferably ethanol;

[0234] - C2-C8 glycols such as ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, 1,3-butylene glycol, pentylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, and mixtures thereof, preferably C3-C5 glycols; - C2-C32 polyols such as glycerol, polyglycerols, polyethylene glycols, and mixtures thereof,

[0235] and their mixtures.

[0236] It may also include hydrophilic gelling agents, antioxidants, preservatives, and mixtures thereof. The aqueous phase of the composition according to the invention will generally represent 45 to 80% by weight relative to the total weight of said composition, and preferably 55 to 70% by weight relative to the total weight of said composition.

[0237] Thus, according to a particular method, the composition of the invention will further comprise one or more additional ingredients chosen from glycols, C2-C5 monoalcohols, oils, fatty esters, fatty acids, dispersants, emulsifiers, gelling agents, film-forming agents, fillers, coloring materials, in particular pigments, antioxidants, perfumes, preservatives, cosmetic actives, and mixtures thereof.

[0238] Coloring agents

[0239] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, especially for tinted skincare or makeup compositions, the composition comprises at least one coloring agent. For the purposes of this invention, a coloring agent is understood to be a compound capable of producing a colored optical effect when formulated in sufficient quantity in a suitable cosmetic medium.

[0240] A coloring material can be chosen from organic or inorganic coloring materials, optical effect materials, and mixtures thereof, soluble or insoluble in the oily phase of the invention.

[0241] In a particular way, the coloring material(s) are pigments, notably chosen from mineral pigments, organic pigments, and their mixtures.

[0242] The term "pigments" refers to white or colored particles, mineral or organic, insoluble in aqueous solution, intended to color and / or opacify the resulting deposit. Depending on the specific method, the pigment(s) are chosen from among mineral and / or organic pigments, composite pigments (based on mineral and / or organic materials), mother-of-pearl or pearlescent pigments, and mixtures thereof.

[0243] Examples of "mineral pigments" include titanium dioxide (rutile or anatase), possibly surface-treated; black, yellow, red and brown iron oxides; manganese violet; ultramarine blue; chromium oxide; hydrated chromium oxide; and ferric blue.

[0244] Among the "organic pigments", we can cite, for example, the pigments D & C red no. 19; D & C red no. 9; D & C Red no. 22; D & C Red no. 21; D & C Red no. 28; D & C Yellow no. 6; D & C orange no. 4; D & C orange no. 5; D & C Red no. 27; D & C red no. 13; D & C Red no. 7; D & C Red no. 6; D & C Yellow no. 5; D & C Red no. 36; D & C Red no. 33; D & C orange no. 10; D & C yellow no. 6; D & C Red no. 30; D & C red no. 3; D & C Blue 1; carbon black and carmine-based lakes.

[0245] According to a particular mode, the composition of the invention comprises at least iron oxides.

[0246] Advantageously, the pigments are surface-treated with at least one hydrophobic or lipophilic treatment agent for better dispersion in the oil phase. The hydrophobic treatment agent is notably chosen from the group consisting of metallic soaps, N-acylated amino acids or their salts; lecithin and its derivatives; isopropyl trisostearyl titanate; diisostearyl sebacate; natural vegetable or animal waxes, polar synthetic waxes; fatty esters; phospholipids, and their mixtures, in particular N-acylated amino acids or their salts.

[0247] When the composition includes coloring materials and in particular pigments, especially in the case of tinted skincare compositions or makeup compositions, their content will generally range from 0.1% to 25% by weight, preferably from 8% to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0248] Pharmaceutical Formulations

[0249] The composition is preferentially intended to be applied to the skin and / or lips, in particular the skin of the face and / or body.

[0250] According to a particular mode, the composition of the invention is a skincare composition, a sun composition or a makeup composition for the skin and / or lips, in particular a skincare composition or a foundation.

[0251] According to the first method, it will be a composition for the care and / or sun protection of keratinous materials, in particular of the skin of the body or face, preferably the face.

[0252] In particular, a composition of the invention may be in the form of an anti-aging skincare composition for the body or face, especially the face. According to another embodiment, a composition of the invention may be in the form of a photoprotective composition, such as a sunscreen.

[0253] In another form, it will be a makeup composition for the facial skin, in particular a foundation. It can be presented in particular in the form of an emulsion, notably an oil-in-water or water-in-oil emulsion, a lotion, an aqueous gel, a milk, an oil, a serum, a cream, or a balm.

[0254] According to a particular mode, the composition of the invention is in the form of a water-in-oil (W / O) emulsion.

[0255] In the case of skincare compositions, particularly sun care products, this may include a cream, a lotion, an oil, a balm or a self-tanner, in particular an SPF 50 or SPF 30 sunscreen for the face and / or body, an SPF 50 or SPF 30 sun lotion for the face and / or body, an SPF 15 sun oil, an after-sun lotion, an after-sun balm, a self-tanner or an after-sun oil.

[0256] In a particular way, the composition is a protective composition, to be applied before sun exposure.

[0257] In a particular way, the composition is a composition to be applied after sun exposure to enhance the tan and bronze, to improve its hold or to bring a feeling of freshness and comfort to the skin.

[0258] It can also be an oil, a balm or a lip stick.

[0259] In the case of makeup compositions, this may include, in particular, a foundation, a primer, or a lipstick.

[0260] METHOD AND USES

[0261] The invention also relates to a non-therapeutic cosmetic process for skin and / or lip care and / or makeup, comprising the application to said skin and / or lips of a composition as defined above.

[0262] The keratinous materials (skin and / or lips) within the framework of the invention are healthy, that is to say, not exhibiting any disorders or abnormalities that would be indicative of a pathological condition (subjects "not healthy", suffering from a pathology).

[0263] According to a particular method, the non-therapeutic cosmetic process according to the invention aims to limit the darkening of the skin and / or improve the color and / or homogeneity of the complexion.

[0264] In another application, the non-therapeutic cosmetic process according to the invention aims to prevent and / or treat the signs of skin aging. 'Prevent' means reducing and / or slowing the appearance of signs of skin aging, and in particular the alteration of the biomechanical properties of the epidermis linked to the degradation of collagen and elastin fibers.

[0265] According to a particular and preferred method, the composition of the invention is applied to the skin before and during exposure to sunlight to protect it against UV radiation.

[0266] According to another method, the composition of the invention is applied to the skin after exposure to sunlight to enhance the tan and bronze, to improve its durability or to provide a feeling of freshness and comfort to the skin.

[0267] The invention also relates to the use of guanine in a content greater than 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, in a composition comprising one or more organic UV filters, as an agent to improve (also said to 'boost') the protection of keratinous materials against UV radiation and / or to reduce the grease and / or stickiness of said composition containing organic UV filters.

[0268] The Applicant has indeed shown that the use of guanine at a concentration of 2% or more by weight relative to the total weight of the composition boosts the protective effect against organic UVFs. This is also referred to as an 'SPF booster' or 'sunscreen activator'. The presence of guanine in the composition of the invention effectively reduces the concentration of organic UVFs while maintaining the level of protection (SPF).

[0269] The examples illustrated below show that the composition according to the invention comprising guanine in a content greater than or equal to 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, allows an increase in SPF of at least 10%, in particular of at least 20%, preferably at least 30% compared to the same composition without guanine.

[0270] In other words, the combination of guanine at a content greater than or equal to 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, and organic FUV, has a synergistic effect on SPF protection.

[0271] This boosting effect of guanine, at a concentration of 2% or more by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, makes it possible to reduce the organic UVF content in the formulations, thereby mitigating the drawbacks of organic UVFs (non-biodegradable compounds that impart a greasy and / or sticky appearance to the formulation and the film applied to the skin, making it difficult to use a significant amount of organic UVFs in skincare formulations, particularly sunscreens). Furthermore, the combination according to the invention provides very good SPF protection, even without the presence of inorganic UV filters.

[0272] Another object is a composition comprising guanine at a concentration of 2% or more by weight relative to the total weight of the composition and one or more inorganic UV filters, for use in the prevention and / or treatment of the adverse effects of ultraviolet radiation on the skin and / or lips. In particular, the composition prevents photoaging of the skin.

[0273] The invention will now be illustrated in the following non-limiting examples. Unless otherwise stated, percentages are expressed as a percentage by weight of ingredient relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0274] EXAMPLES

[0275] Example 1: Effect of guanine in combination with organic UV filters in foundations (SPF)

[0276] Foundation compositions are prepared and illustrated in the following tables:

[0277] Table 1 illustrates foundation compositions with a first combination of organic UV filters (ethylhexyl salicylate and phenylbenzimidazole sulfonic acid), in the absence of guanine (control) or in the presence of guanine, at increasing guanine contents.

[0278] Table 1:

[0279] 1 2 3 4 Formulas

[0280] Phase 0% 1% 3%

[0281] guanine guanine guanine 5% guanine Ingredients (INCI name) (control) (invention) (invention) EUPHORBIA CERIFERA (CANDELILLA)

[0282] WAX EXTRACT and BENZYL ALCOHOL

[0283] A1 (CANDELILLA RESIN) 1.1 1.1 1.1 1.1 COCO-CAPRYLATE / CAPRATE,

[0284] A1 TOCOPHEROL (CETIOL C 5C MB) 3.2 3.2 3.2 3.2

[0285] A2 ISOAMYL LAURATE 5 5 5 5

[0286] C9-12 ALKANE, COCONUT- CAPRYLATE / CAPRATE (VEGELIGHT

[0287]

[0288] A2 1214 LC D) 2.0 2.0 2.0 2.0 A2 PARFUM 0.3 0.3 0.3 0.3

[0289] C9-12 ALKANE, DISTEARDIMONIUM

[0290] HECTORITE, PROPYLENE CARBONATE

[0291] A2 (VEGELIGHT BENTONE SILK) 2,62 2,62 2,62 2,62 COCO-CAPRYLATE / CAPRATE,

[0292] DISTEARDIMONIUM HECTORITE,

[0293] PROPYLENE CARBONATE (BENTONE

[0294] A2 GEL CCC V MB) 2 2 2 2 POLYGLYCERYL-6 POLYRICINOLEATE,

[0295] POLYGLYCERYL-10 DIOLEATE

[0296] A2 (GRANSURF PG-14) 3,9 3,9 3,9 3,9 POLYGLYCERYL-2 ISOSTEARATE (S- A2 FACE IS-201P MB) 2,6 2,6 2,6 2,6

[0297] Cl 77499, STEAROYL GLUTAMIC ACID,

[0298] POLYHYDROXYSTEARIC ACID (BWBO- A3 ASGP3 MB) 5,26 5,26 5,26 5,26 Cl 77491, STEAROYL GLUTAMIC ACID,

[0299] POLYHYDROXYSTEARIC ACID (BWRO- A3 ASGP3 MB) 5,43 5,43 5,43 5,43 Cl 77492, STEAROYL GLUTAMIC ACID,

[0300] POLYHYDROXYSTEARIC ACID (BWYO- A3 ASGP3 MB) 0,3 0,3 0,3 0,3

[0301] Cl 77891, STEAROYL GLUTAMIC ACID,

[0302] POLYHYDROXYSTEARIC ACID (BTD- A3 ASGP3 MB) 0,01 0,01 0,01 0,01 POLYHYDROXYSTEARIC ACID,

[0303] CAPRYLIC / CAPRIC TRIGLYCERIDE,

[0304] ISOSTEARIC ACID, LECITHIN,

[0305] POLYGLYCERYL-3 POLYRICINOLEATE

[0306] A3 (APPLECARE PDS-300 MB) 0,3 0,3 0,3 0,3

[0307] B1 EAU PURIFIEE Qsp100 Qsp100 Qsp100 Qsp100 B1 GLYCEROL VEGETAL 5 5 5 5

[0308] B1 HYDROXYACETOPHENONE 0,3 0,3 0,3 0,3

[0309] B1 SODIUM BENZOATE 0,2 0,2 0,2 0,2

[0310] B2 PULLULAN 1,1 1,1 1,1 1,1

[0311] B3 ETHANOL 7 7 7 7 CELLULOSE, STEAROYL GLUTAMIC

[0312] C ACID (CELLULOBEADS D-5-ASG3 MB) 4 4 4 4

[0313] B1 TROMETHAMINE 1,39 1,39 1,39 1,39 A2 ETHYLHEXYL SALICYLATE 5,0 5,0 5,0 5,0 PHENYLBENZIMIDAZOLE SULFONIC

[0314] B1 ACID (PARSOL HS) 3,0 3,0 3,0 3,0

[0315]

[0316] A3 GUANINE - 1.0 3.0 5.0

[0317] Table 2 illustrates foundation compositions with a second combination of organic UV filters (ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate and phenylbenzimidazole sulfonic acid), in the absence of guanine (control) or in the presence of guanine, at increasing guanine concentrations. Table 2:

[0318] 5 6 7 8 Formulas

[0319] Phase Ingredients (name 1% 3% 5% INCI) 0% guanine guanine guanine guanine EUPHORBIA CERIFERA

[0320] (CANDELILLA)

[0321] WAX EXTRACT and

[0322] BENZYL ALCOHOL

[0323] (CANDELILLA

[0324] A1 RESIN) 1.1 1.1 1.1 1.1 COCO- CAPRYLATE / CAPR

[0325] ATE,

[0326] TOCOPHEROL

[0327] A1 (CETIOL C 5C MB) 1.2 1.2 1.2 1.2 C9-12 ALKANE

[0328] (VEGELIGHT SILK

[0329] A2 DESODORISE) 6,25 6,25 6,25 6,25 POLYGLYCERYL-6

[0330] POLYRICINOLEAT

[0331] E,

[0332] POLYGLYCERYL-2

[0333] ISOSTEARATE,

[0334] DISTEARDIMONIU M HECTORITE,

[0335] TOCOPHEROL

[0336] (NIKKOMULESE

[0337] A2 WO-NS MB) 4,5 4,5 4,5 4,5 A2 PARFUM 0,3 0,3 0,3 0,3 C15-19 ALKANE

[0338] A2 (EMOGREEN L15) 1,0 1,0 1,0 1,0 SODIUM

[0339] B1 CHLORIDE 0,5 0,5 0,5 0,5 ETHYLHEXYLGLY CERIN,

[0340] TOCOPHEROL

[0341] A2 (SENSIVA SC 50) 0,3 0,3 0,3 0,3 POLYGLYCERYL- 10

[0342] DECAISOSTEARAT

[0343] E (S-FACE IS- A2 1009P) 0,5 0,5 0,5 0,5 Cl 77492, SODIUM

[0344] MYRISTOYL GLUTAMATE,

[0345] ALUMINUM HYDROXIDE (C

[0346] 339001 SUN PURO

[0347] YEL. I. O. TR VAI

[0348] A3 MB) 0,3 0,3 0,3 0,3 Cl 77491, SODIUM

[0349] MYRISTOYL GLUTAMATE,

[0350] ALUMINUM HYDROXIDE (C

[0351]

[0352] A3 338021 SUN PURO 5,43 5,43 5,43 5,43 RED IRON OX TR

[0353] VAI MB)

[0354] Cl 77499, SODIUM

[0355] MYRISTOYL GLUTAMATE,

[0356] ALUMINUM HYDROXIDE (C

[0357] 337001 SUN PURO

[0358] A3 BL I. O. TR VAI MB) 5,26 5,26 5,26 5,26

[0359] B1 EAU PURIFIEE Qsp100 Qsp100 Qsp100 Qsp100

[0360] B1 PROPANEDIOL 4,0 4,0 4,0 4,0

[0361] PENTYLENE

[0362] B1 GLYCOL 1,0 1,0 1,0 1,0

[0363] HYDROXYACETOP

[0364] B1 HENONE 0,3 0,3 0,3 0,3

[0365] POTASSIUM

[0366] B1 SORBATE 0,2 0,2 0,2 0,2

[0367] B2 PULLULAN 1,1 1,1 1,1 1,1

[0368] TITANIUM DIOXIDE

[0369] Cl 77891, SODIUM

[0370] MYRISTOYL GLUTAMATE,

[0371] ALUMINUM

[0372] A3 HYDROXIDE 0.01 0.01 0.01 0.01

[0373] B1 TROMETAMINE 1.39 1.39 1.39 1.39

[0374] ETHYLHEXYL METHOXYCINNAM

[0375] A2 ATE, BHT 7.0 7.0 7.0 7.0

[0376] PHENYLBENZIMID AZOLE SULFONIC

[0377] B1 ACID (PARSOL HS) 3.0 3.0 3.0 3.0

[0378]

[0379] A3 GUANINE - 1.0 3.0 5.0

[0380] The compositions are prepared according to the following protocol, at room temperature.

[0381] Candelilla resin is heated to 95°C using a water bath to melt the resin and then cooled to room temperature before use.

[0382] The pigments and wetting agents (coco-caprylate / caprate, tocopherol and C9-12 alkane, coco-caprylate caprate) are weighed into a small dish and thoroughly homogenized with a spatula. The pigment phase is then ground using the three-roller mill (3 passes).

[0383] The guanine and wetting agents are weighed in a small dish and thoroughly homogenized with a spatula. The guanine phase is then ground using the three-roller mill (3 passes).

[0384] Aqueous phase:

[0385] Phase B1 is weighed, and we wait until all the powders are well solubilized before adding phase B2; the mixture is then homogenized under RAYNERI; Phase B3 is weighed and raw material is added under RAYNERI, raw material by raw material until complete solubilization.

[0386] Fatty phase:

[0387] Phase A2 is weighed and homogenized for 5 minutes using ultra-turrax®.

[0388] The phase with candelilla resin is added to phase A2, and the mixture is homogenized for 5 min with ultra-turrax®.

[0389] The pigment phase is added and the mixture is homogenized for 5 minutes using Ultra-Turrax®. The guanine phase is added and the mixture is homogenized for 5 minutes using Ultra-Turrax®.

[0390] Emulsion:

[0391] The aqueous phase is gradually added to the oily phase under RAYNERI, then the alcohol and then the fillers are added under RAYNERI and the mixture is stirred at 1000 rpm for 15 minutes.

[0392] The compositions were then evaluated according to different criteria (SPF and color in the mass).

[0393] SPF in vitro

[0394] The sun protection factor (SPF) is determined in vitro by a protocol based on the method described in the publication: Validation of an in vitro sun protection factor (SPF) method in blinded ring-testing. Pissavini, M., et al.. (2018), Int J Cosmet Sci, 40: 263-268. (https: / / doi.org / 10.1111 / ics.12459).

[0395] Each formula is applied to 3 PMMA HD6 plates (HelioScreen) and 3 PMMA SB6 plates (HelioScreen), at rates of 1.3 and 1.2 mg / cm² respectively. Spreading is carried out using the HD-SpreadMaster robot (HelioScreen; the application probe is covered with a nitrile finger cot pre-saturated with the product).

[0396] To measure a blank spectrum, one plate of each type was prepared with 15 µL of petroleum jelly. Absorbance measurements were performed using an OL756 spectroradiometer (OPTRONICS LABORATORIES). The in vitro FPS was then calculated using the following formula:

[0397] 400

[0398] ∫ E(λ)I(λ)dλ

[0399]

[0400] in which

[0401] E(A) = erythemal action spectrum described by the CIE l(A) = Global spectral irradiance at 40°N, midday, mid-summer;

[0402] dλ = No measurement (1nm)

[0403] Initial A(λ) = C HD6 HAS HD6 (λ) + C SB6 HAS SB6 (λ)

[0404] with

[0405] CHD6 = 0.225

[0406] CSB6 = 0.800

[0407] The results are presented in the following tables:

[0408] First combination of filters: ethylhexyl salicylate and phenylbenzimidazole sulfonic acid Table 3:

[0409] Formulas 1, 2, 3, and 4 with the same % of

[0410] Organic FUV in Control With 1% With 3% guanine With 5% guanine all formulas (without guanine) guanine

[0411] Rating SPF 13.3 ± 1.0 11.3 ± 1.1 13.9 ± 0.7 16.0 ± 0.5 UVA: 4.1 ±0.0 UVA: 3.7 ± 0.0 UVA: 4.3 ± 0.1 UVA: 4.4 ± 0.0

[0412]

[0413] Second combination of UV filters: ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate and phenylbenzimidazole sulfonic acid

[0414] Table 4:

[0415] Formulas 5, 6, 7, and 8 with the same % of

[0416] Organic FUV in Control With 1% guanine With 3% guanine With 5% guanine all formulas (without guanine)

[0417] 34.9 ± 4.4 37.0 ± 1.7 SPF rating 23.0 ± 1.3 23.9 ± 1.6

[0418] UVA: 3.4 ± 0.0 UVA: 3.6 ± 0.0 UVA: 4.8 ± 0.0 UVA: 4.8 ± 0.0

[0419]

[0420] These results show that combining guanine, at a concentration of 2% or more by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, with organic UV filters provides improved SPF protection (SPF increase) compared to the control (without guanine). This boosting effect of guanine on protection allows for a reduction in the concentration of organic UV filters while maintaining an equivalent SPF, and with an increase in UVA protection. Example 2: Effect of guanine in combination with organic UV filters in skincare formulations (SPF)

[0421] Table 5 illustrates skincare compositions with a first combination of organic UV filters (ethylhexyl salicylate, phenylbenzimidazole sulfonic acid, butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane), in the absence of guanine (control) or in the presence of guanine, at increasing guanine levels.

[0422] Table 5:

[0423] Phases Description 9 10 11 12 13 es

[0424] Témoi 1% 3% 5% 10% n guani guani guani guani (0% ne ne ne ne guanin

[0425] e)

[0426] DICAPRYLYL CARBONATE 6,0 6,0 6,0 6,0 6,0 STEARALKONIUM HECTORITE,

[0427] PROPYLENE CARBONATE, TOCOPHEROL

[0428] A1 (COSMEDIA GEL CC MB)

[0429] POLYGLYCERYL-4 4,0 4,0 4,0 4,0 4,0 DIISOSTEARATE / POLYHYDROXYSTEARAT

[0430] E / SEBACATE, CAPRYLIC / CAPRIC

[0431] TRIGLYCERIDE, POLYGLYCERYL-3

[0432] OLEATE, DIISOSTEAROYL POLYGLYCERYL- 3 DIMER, TOCOPHEROL, HELIANTHUS

[0433] ANNUUS (SUNFLOWER) SEED

[0434] A1 (ISOLAN 17 MB)

[0435] A1 SORBITAN SESQUIOLEATE 1,6 1,6 1,6 1,6 1,6 A2 COCO-CAPRYLATE / CAPRATE 25,8 25,8 25,8 25,8 25,8 A2 C15-19 ALKANE 3,0 3,0 3,0 3,0 3,0 A1 ETHYLHEXYL SALICYLATE 5,0 5,0 5,0 5,0 5,0 PHENYLBENZIMIDAZOLE SULFONIC ACID 3,0 3,0 3,0 3,0 3,0 B3 (PARSOL HS)

[0436] A2 BUTYL METHOXYDIBENZOYLMETHANE 3.0 3.0 3.0 3.0 3.0 POLYHYDROXYSTEARIC ACID, 0.6 0.6 0.6 0.6 0.6 CAPRYLIC / CAPRIC TRIGLYCERIDE,

[0437] ISOSTEARIC ACID, LECITHIN

[0438] POLYGLYCERYL-3 POLYRICINOLEATE

[0439] A3 (APPLECARE PDS-300 MB)

[0440] PURIFIED WATER Qsp Qsp Qsp Qsp Qsp B1 100 100 100 100 100 B1 HYDROXYACETOPHENONE 0.3 0.3 0.3 0.3 0.3 B1 CHLORPHENESIN 0.27 0.27 0.27 0.27 0.27 B1 VEGETABLE GLYCEROL 4.0 4.0 4.0 4.0 4.0 B1 PROPANEDIOL 4.0 4.0 4.0 4.0 4.0 B2 MAGNESIUM SULFATE 1.0 1.0 1.0 1.0 1.0 B3 TROMETHAMINE 1.39 1.39 1.39 1.39 1.39 GUANINE - 1, 3.0 5.0 10.0

[0441]

[0442] A3 0 Table 6 illustrates skincare compositions with a second combination of organic UV filters (octocrylene, phenylbenzimidazole sulfonic acid, butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane), in the absence of guanine (control) or in the presence of guanine, at increasing guanine levels.

[0443] Tableau 6:

[0444] Phas Description 14 15 16 17 18 es

[0445] Témoi 1% 3% 5% 10% n guani guani guani guani (0% ne ne ne ne guanin

[0446] e)

[0447] DICAPRYLYL CARBONATE 6,0 6,0 6,0 6,0 6,0 STEARALKONIUM HECTORITE,

[0448] PROPYLENE CARBONATE, TOCOPHEROL

[0449] A1 (COSMEDIA GEL CC MB)

[0450] POLYGLYCERYL-4 4,0 4,0 4,0 4,0 4,0 DIISOSTEARATE / POLYHYDROXYSTEARAT

[0451] E / SEBACATE, CAPRYLIC / CAPRIC

[0452] TRIGLYCERIDE, POLYGLYCERYL-3

[0453] OLEATE, DIISOSTEAROYL POLYGLYCERYL- 3 DIMER, TOCOPHEROL, HELIANTHUS

[0454] ANNUUS (SUNFLOWER) SEED

[0455] A1 (ISOLAN 17 MB)

[0456] A1 SORBITAN SESQUIOLEATE 1,6 1,6 1,6 1,6 1,6 A2 COCO-CAPRYLATE / CAPRATE 22,8 22,8 22,8 22,8 22,8 A2 C15-19 ALKANE 1,0 1,0 1,0 1,0 1,0 A2 OCTOCRYLENE (EUSOLEX OCR) 10,0 10,0 10,0 10,0 10,0 PHENYLBENZIMIDAZOLE SULFONIC ACID 3,0 3,0 3,0 3,0 3,0 B3 (PARSOL HS)

[0457] A2 BUTYL METHOXYDIBENZOYLMETHANE 3,0 3,0 3,0 3,0 3,0 POLYHYDROXYSTEARIC ACID, 0,6 0,6 0,6 0,6 0,6 CAPRYLIC / CAPRIC TRIGLYCERIDE,

[0458] ISOSTEARIC ACID, LECITHIN,

[0459] POLYGLYCERYL-3 POLYRICINOLEATE

[0460] A3 (APPLECARE PDS-300 MB)

[0461] EAU PURIFIEE Qsp Qsp Qsp Qsp Qsp B1 100 100 100 100 100 B1 HYDROXYACETOPHENONE 0,3 0,3 0,3 0,3 0,3 B1 CHLORPHENESIN 0,27 0,27 0,27 0,27 0,27 B1 GLYCEROL VEGETAL 4,0 4,0 4,0 4,0 4,0 B1 PROPANEDIOL 4,0 4,0 4,0 4,0 4,0 B2 MAGNESIUM SULFATE 1,0 1,0 1,0 1,0 1,0 B3 TROMETHAMINE 1,39 1,39 1,39 1,39 1,39 A3 GUANINE - 1,0 3,0 5,0 10,0

[0462]

[0463] Table 7 illustrates skincare compositions with a third combination of organic UV filters (bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine (BEMT), ethylhexyl triazone (EHT) and terephthalylidene dicamphor sulfonic acid (TDSA), in the absence of guanine (control) or in the presence of guanine, at increasing guanine levels.

[0464] Table 7:

[0465] Phases Description 19 20 21 22 23 24 es

[0466] Témo 1% 2% 3% 5% 10% in guani guani guani guani guani (0% ne ne ne ne ne guani

[0467] born)

[0468] A1 DICAPRYLYL CARBONATE 6.0 6.0 6.0 6.0 6.0 6.0 STEARALKONIUM HECTORITE,

[0469] PROPYLENE CARBONATE

[0470] TOCOPHEROL, (COSMEDIA GEL CC

[0471] MB)

[0472] A1 POLYGLYCERYL-4 4.0 4.0 4.0 4.0 4.0 4.0 DIISOSTEARATE / POLYHYDROXYSTEA

[0473] SPLEEN / SEBACATE, CAPRYLIC / CAPRIC

[0474] TRIGLYCERIDE, POLYGLYCERYL-3

[0475] OLEATE, DIISOSTEAROYL

[0476] POLYGLYCERYL-3 DIMER,

[0477] TOCOPHEROL, HELIANTHUS ANNUUS

[0478] (SUNFLOWER) SEED, (ISOLAN 17 MB)

[0479] A1 SORBITAN SESQUIOLEATE 1,6 1,6 1,6 1,6 1,6 1,6 A1 COCO-CAPRYLATE / CAPRATE Qsp Qsp Qsp Qsp Qsp Qsp 100 100 100 100 100 100 A2 BIS-ETHYLHEXYLOXYPHENOL 2,5 2,5 2,5 2,5 2,5 2,5 METHOXYPHENYL TRIAZINE

[0480] A2 ETHYLHEXYL TRIAZONE 2,0 2,0 2,0 2,0 2,0 2,0 A3 C15-19 ALKANE 1,0 1,0 1,0 1,0 1,0 1,0

[0481]

[0482] A4 POLYHYDROXYSTEARIC ACID, 0,6 0,6 0,6 0,6 0,6 0,6 CAPRYLIC / CAPRIC

[0483] TRIGLYCERIDE, ISOSTEARIC ACID,

[0484] LECITHIN, POLYGLYCERYL-3

[0485] POLYRICINOLEATE (APPLECARE PDS- 300 MB)

[0486] A4 GUANINE - 1.0 2.0 3.0 5.0 10.0 A4 COCO-CAPRYLATE / CAPRATE 10.0 1.0 1.0 3.0 5.0 10.0 B1 PURIFIED WATER 31.04 31.04 31.04 31.04 31.04 31.04 B1 HYDROXYACETOPHENONE 0.3 0.3 0.3 0.3 0.3 0.3 B1 CHLORPHENESIN 0.27 0.27 0.27 0.27 0.27 0.27 B1 VEGETABLE GLYCEROL 4.0 4.0 4.0 4.0 4.0 4.0 B1 PROPANEDIOL 4.0 4.0 4.0 4.0 4.0 4.0 B2 PURIFIED WATER 7.73 7.73 7.73 7.73 7.73 7.73 B2 TROMETHAMINE 0.66 0.66 0.66 0.66 0.66 0.66 B3 TEREPHTHALYLIDENE DICAMPHOR 3.3 3.3 3.3 3.3 3.3 3.3 SULFONIC ACID, AQUA (ECAM H2OUV)

[0487]

[0488] Table 8 illustrates skincare compositions with a fourth combination of organic UV filters (drometrizole trisiloxane (DTS), ethylhexyl triazone (EHT), diethylamino hydroxy benzoyl hexyl benzoate (DHHB), in the absence of guanine (control) or in the presence of guanine, at increasing guanine levels.

[0489] Table 8:

[0490] Phase Description

[0491] es 25 26 27 28 29 Témoi 1% 3% 5% 10% n (0% guani guani guani guani guanin ne ne ne ne e)

[0492] A1 DICAPRYLYL CARBONATE 6,0 6,0 6,0 6,0 6,0 STEARALKONIUM HECTORITE,

[0493] PROPYLENE CARBONATE, TOCOPHEROL,

[0494] (COSMEDIA GEL CC MB)

[0495]

[0496] A1 POLYGLYCERYL-4 4,0 4,0 4,0 4,0 4,0 DIISOSTEARATE / POLYHYDROXYSTEARAT

[0497] E / SEBACATE, CAPRYLIC / CAPRIC

[0498] TRIGLYCERIDE, POLYGLYCERYL-3

[0499] OLEATE, DIISOSTEAROYL POLYGLYCERYL- 3 DIMER, TOCOPHEROL, HELIANTHUS

[0500] ANNUUS (SUNFLOWER) SEED, (ISOLAN 17

[0501] MB)

[0502] A1 SORBITAN SESQUIOLEATE 1,6 1,6 1,6 1,6 1,6 A1 COCO-CAPRYLATE / CAPRATE Qsp Qsp Qsp Qsp Qsp 100 100 100 100 100 A2 DROMETRIZOLE TRISILOXANE 4,0 4,0 4,0 4,0 4,0 A2 DIETHYLAMINO HYDROXYBENZOYL HEXYL 2,0 2,0 2,0 2,0 2,0 BENZOATE

[0503] A2 ETHYLHEXYL TRIAZONE 2.5 2.5 2.5 2.5 2.5 A3 C15-19 ALKANE 1.0 1.0 1.0 1.0 1.0 A4 POLYHYDROXYSTEARIC ACID, 0.6 0.6 0.6 0.6 0.6 CAPRYLIC / CAPRIC

[0504] TRIGLYCERIDE, ISOSTEARIC ACID,

[0505] LECITHIN, POLYGLYCERYL-3

[0506] POLYRICINOLEATE (APPLECARE PDS-300

[0507] MB)

[0508] A4 GUANINE - 1.0 3.0 5.0 10.0 A4 COCO-CAPRYLATE / CAPRATE 10.0 1.0 3.0 5.0 10.0 B1 PURIFIED WATER 31.04 31.04 31.04 31.04 31.04 B1 HYDROXYACETOPHENONE 0.3 0.3 0.3 0.3 0.3 B1 CHLORPHENESIN 0.27 0.27 0.27 0.27 0.27 B1 VEGETABLE GLYCEROL 4.0 4.0 4.0 4.0 4.0 B1 PROPANEDIOL 4.0 4.0 4.0 4.0 4.0 B2 MAGNESIUM SULFATE 1.0 1.0 1.0 1.0 1.0 B3 Purified Water 6.95 6.95 6.95 6.95 6.95 6.95 B3 Tromethamine 0.44 0.44 0.44 0.44 0.44

[0509]

[0510] The compositions were prepared according to the following protocol, at room temperature, under Rayneri:

[0511] The guanine phase was processed using a three-cylinder press (3 passes). Oil phase

[0512] The phase containing the organic filters is heated using a water bath at 85°C for a period not exceeding 30 minutes (to avoid denaturing the filters), then allowed to return to room temperature.

[0513] Phase A1 is homogenized under Turrax, then phases A2 and A3 are added in order, and the mixture is homogenized under Turrax after each introduction until a homogeneous phase is obtained.

[0514] Aqueous phase

[0515] Phase B is prepared as follows: water is heated to 70°C to solubilize chlorphenesin, then cooled and the phases are added in succession with 5 min of stirring between each one.

[0516] Emulsion

[0517] Phase B is then added to phase A under Rayneri in a thin stream, increasing the speed to 1000 rpm, then let it stir for 15 minutes at 1000 rpm.

[0518] The compositions were then evaluated for their SPF according to the protocol described in example 1.

[0519] The results are presented below:

[0520] First combination of organic UV filters: ethylhexyl salicylate, phenylbenzimidazole sulfonic acid, butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane

[0521] Table 9:

[0522] 9 10 11 12 13 Formulas

[0523] Control with the same % of

[0524] Organic FUV in (without, with 1%, with 3%, with 5%, with 10% guanine) guanine guanine guanine guanine all formulas

[0525] 16.2 ± 0.2 17.8 ± 0.9 22.9 ± 0.8 27.9 ± 0.4 36.7 ± 0.4 UVA: 5.0 ± 0.1 UVA: 4.9± 0.2 UVA: 4.8 ± 0.1 UVA: 5.0 ± 0.2 UVA: 4.2 ± 0.1 SPF rating

[0526]

[0527] Second combination of organic UV filters: octocrylene, phenylbenzimidazole sulfonic acid, butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane

[0528] Table 10:

[0529] 14 15 16 17 18 Formulas

[0530] with the same % of Control

[0531] Organic UVF in (without guanine) With 1% With 3% With 5% With 10% guanine 33.4 ± 1.0 35.1 ± 1.7 46.5 ± 2.6 52.2 ± 1.3 76.9 ± 11.9 SPF Evaluation UVA: 11.0 UVA: 10.9 UVA: 12.8 ± UVA: 13.1 ± UVA: 18.0 ±

[0532] ± 0.5 ±0.1 0.2 0.3 0.4

[0533]

[0534] Third combination of organic UV filters: bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine (BEMT), ethylhexyl triazone (EHT) and terephthalylidene dicamphor sulfonic acid (TDSA)

[0535] Table 11:

[0536] Formulas 19 20 21 22 23 24 with the same % of

[0537] Organic FUV Control With 1% With 2% With 3% With 5% With 10% in all (guanine-free formulas)

[0538] 15.4 ± 0.3 16.6 ± 0.3 20.7 ± 1.6 22.5 ± 1.6 32.7 ± 1.1 44.4 ± 1.6 Rating SPF UVA: 6.0 UVA: 6.0 ± UVA: 6.9 ± UVA: 7.2 UVA: 8.5 UVA: 9.4

[0539] ± 0.1 0.1 0.1 ± 0.1 ± 0.1 ± 0.1

[0540]

[0541] Fourth combination of organic UV filters: drometrizole trisiloxane (PTS), ethylhexyl triazone (EHT), diethylamino hydroxybenzoyl hexyl benzoate (DHHB)

[0542] Table 12:

[0543] Formulas 25, 26, 27, 28, and 29 with the same % of Control

[0544] Organic UVF in (without guanine) With 1% With 3% With 5% With 10% guanine 21.5 ± 0.2 18.4 ± 0.2 22.5 ± 1.1 31.8 ± 0.9 50.0 ± 2.5 SPF Evaluation UVA: 7.2 UVA: 6.4 UVA: 7.0 ± UVA: 8.0 ± UVA: 9.6 ± 0.1 ± 0.1 0.1 0.2 0.1

[0545]

[0546] These results show, in particular, that using guanine at a concentration of 2% or more by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, in sunscreen formulations with high concentrations of organic UV filters, improves the SPF (protection against UVB rays), and, depending on the filter combinations, also provides an increase in UVA protection. The boosting effect of guanine thus allows for a reduction in the concentration of organic UV filters while maintaining an equivalent SPF.

[0547] The combined results of examples 1 and 2 show that the SPF boosting effect of guanine is obtained with a content greater than or equal to 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, with an even better boosting effect in skincare compositions.

[0548] Example 3: Sunscreen lip balm

[0549] Table 13:

[0550] Ingredient %

[0551] Silica 10%

[0552] 7% Nylon Powder

[0553] 17% polyethylene wax

[0554] Glycerin 14%

[0555] Bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine 0.5%

[0556] (BEMT)

[0557] Guanine 3%

[0558] Butylene glycol 5%

[0559] Isopropyl myristate qs100%

[0560]

[0561] When applied to the lips, the balm provides good sun protection, without feeling greasy or sticky.

Claims

DEMANDS 1. Cosmetic composition for the skin and / or lips comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium, at least: (i) Guanine, in a content greater than or equal to 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, and (ii) one or more organic UV filters.

2. Composition according to claim 1, characterized in that it comprises at least one lipophilic organic UVB filter, and advantageously further at least one additional organic UV filter selected from hydrophilic UVB filters, hydrophilic UVA filters, lipophilic UVA filters, and mixtures thereof.

3. Composition according to claim 2, characterized in that the organic UV filters are selected from cinnamic derivatives; salicylic derivatives; dibenzoylmethane derivatives; benzophenone derivatives; β,β-diphenyl acrylate derivatives; triazine derivatives; anthranilates; camphor derivatives; benzotriazole derivatives; benzalmalonate derivatives; imidazolines; p-aminobenzoic acid (PABA) derivatives; benzoxazole derivatives; α-alkylstyrene derivative dimers; 4,4-diarylbutadiene derivatives; merocyanine derivatives; merocyanines; phenylbenzimidazole compounds; Diethylamino Hydroxybenzoyl Hexyl Benzoate (DHHB); Terephthalylidene Dicamphor Sulfonic Acid (TDSA); and mixtures thereof, and in particular: Lipophilic UVB filters are chosen from the group consisting of cinnamic derivatives; salicylic derivatives; p,p-diphenylacrylate derivatives; triazine derivatives, phenyl benzotriazole derivatives, and mixtures thereof; hydrophilic UVB filters are chosen from water-soluble phenylbenzimidazole compounds; Hydrophilic UVA filters are selected from Diethyl amino Hydroxybenzoyl Hexyl Benzoate (DHBB), terephthalylidene dicamphor sulfonic acid (TDSA), and mixtures thereof, and Lipophilic UVA filters are chosen from benzophenone derivatives, dibenzoylmethane derivatives, and mixtures thereof.

4. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 3, characterized in that the guanine content ranges from 2% to 20%, in particular from 3% to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

5. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 4, characterized in that the total content of organic UV filters ranges from 2% to 20%, in particular from 5% to 15%, or even 8% to 12% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

6. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 5, characterized in that it further comprises one or more additional ingredients selected from glycols, C2-C5 monoalcohols, oils, fatty esters, fatty acids, dispersants, emulsifiers, gelling agents, film-forming agents, fillers, pigments, and mixtures thereof.

7. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 6, characterized in that the composition comprises a total pigment content of 0.1% to 25% by weight, in particular 8 to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

8. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 7, characterized in that it is a skincare composition, a sun care composition or a skin and / or lip makeup composition, in particular a skincare composition or a foundation.

9. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 8, characterized in that it is in the form of an emulsion, lotion, aqueous gel, milk, oil, serum, cream, or balm, in particular a water-in-oil emulsion.

10. Non-therapeutic cosmetic process for skin and / or lip care and / or makeup, comprising the application to said skin and / or lips of a composition as defined in any one of claims 1 to 9.

11. Use of guanine in a content greater than or equal to 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, in a composition comprising one or more organic UV filters, as an agent to improve the protection of keratinous materials against UV radiation.

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