Process for making up keratin materials, comprising the application of at least one acrylic copolymer bearing acetoacetate functions and a crosslinking agent
The application of compositions (A) and (B) with specific ingredients enhances the persistence and resistance of cosmetic deposits on keratin materials, addressing the limitations of existing technologies by providing a non-tacky, glossy, and long-lasting makeup that withstands mechanical and chemical challenges.
Patent Information
- Authority / Receiving Office
- WO · WO
- Patent Type
- Applications
- Current Assignee / Owner
- LOREAL SA
- Filing Date
- 2025-12-22
- Publication Date
- 2026-07-02
AI Technical Summary
Existing cosmetic compositions for keratin materials, such as skin and eyelashes, fail to provide a deposit that is non-tacky, does not transfer easily, is glossy, comfortable, and long-lasting, while also being resistant to mechanical and chemical attacks like sebum and water.
A process involving the application of two separate compositions, (A) and (B), where composition (A) includes a copolymer with acetoacetate functions, polyol, alkyl acetate, volatile oil, and monoalcohol, and composition (B) includes a crosslinking agent, optionally with an organic or mineral acid and water, to enhance the persistence of the deposit on keratin materials.
The process results in a persistent, non-tacky, and comfortable deposit that is resistant to oils, water, sebum, and friction, providing improved sheen and color persistence.
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Abstract
Description
[0001] Description
[0002] Title: Process for making up keratin materials, comprising the application of at least one acrylic copolymer bearing acetoacetate functions and a crosslinking agent
[0003] Technical field
[0004] The present invention relates more particularly to the cosmetic field of keratin materials, and notably to that of making up the skin and / or eyelashes and / or eyebrows. It thus aims to provide a process for making up keratin materials comprising at least the application to said keratin materials of at least two separate compositions (A) and (B). The invention also relates to a kit for making up keratin materials comprising at least two compositions (A) and (B) packaged separately.
[0005] Prior art
[0006] Cosmetic products conventionally require the use of one or more film-forming polymers in order to obtain a quality deposit of these products on keratin materials, and in particular to satisfy the expectations detailed below.
[0007] Thus, in the field of makeup for the skin, it is most particularly expected that the deposit formed does not transfer on contact with the fingers or clothing.
[0008] It must also have good persistence on contact with water, notably rain or perspiration, or when showering, and with fatty substances, such as sebum. Moreover, this deposit must be comfortable or even glossy.
[0009] For this purpose, dispersions of polymer particles of nanometric size are used as filmforming agent in makeup products such as mascaras, eyeliners or eyeshadows, and more particularly in their organic and notably oily phases.
[0010] Thus, FR 2 741 530, for example, proposes for this purpose, for the temporary dyeing of keratin fibres, the use of a dispersion of film-forming polymer particles including at least one acidic function and at least one pigment dispersed in the continuous phase of said dispersion. The colourings obtained via this dyeing method are not always satisfactory in terms of persistence, notably with respect to shampoo washing. Specifically, in general, these polymers do not afford deposits on keratin materials that satisfy all the abovementioned requirements, namely very good water resistance, in particular with respect to shampoowashing for the hair, which make it possible to adjust the gloss or invisibility qualities and which, in the case of haircare use, provide very satisfactory styling hold.
[0011] EP 3 250 177 Al describes the use of acetoacetylated compounds in the field of keratin fibres. The keratin materials treated with said acetoacetylated compounds do not always give satisfactory results, especially in terms of persistence with respect to water and shampoo washing.
[0012] These documents do not make it possible to obtain deposits that are non-tacky, do not transfer easily, are comfortable, and are long-lasting.
[0013] Disclosure of the invention
[0014] There is thus still a need for cosmetic compositions intended for application to the skin and / or eyelashes and / or eyebrows which make it possible to obtain a deposit that is non-tacky, does not transfer easily, if at all, and that is glossy, comfortable and long-lasting. There is also still a need for compositions which are resistant to various mechanical and chemical attacks, for example makeup-removing compositions such as biphase waters, or sebum.
[0015] There also remains a need for compositions that afford sheen and colour persistence qualities.
[0016] The present invention specifically aims to meet some or all of these needs.
[0017] Summary of the invention
[0018] These problems are solved with the implementation of a process for making up keratin materials, notably the skin and / or eyelashes and / or eyebrows, comprising at least the application to said keratin materials of at least two separate compositions (A) and (B): said composition (A) comprising at least:
[0019] i) at least one copolymer bearing acetoacetate function(s) referred to as CP, comprising repeat units derived from at least one monomer of formula (I) below:
[0020]
[0021] in which:
[0022] - Rarepresents a hydrogen atom or a linear or branched (Ci-C4)alkyl group;
[0023] - Rband Rc, which may be identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or a linear or branched (Ci-C4)alkyl group;
[0024] - Rdrepresents a linear or branched (Ci-C4)alkyl group; and
[0025] - L represents a linear or branched (Ci-Ce)alkylene, or cycloalkylene, group, and from at least one monomer, preferably from at least two monomers chosen from C1-C4 alkyl acrylates, C1-C4 alkyl methacrylates and mixtures thereof;
[0026] ii) at least one polyol;
[0027] iii) at least one alkyl acetate comprising from 2 to 4 carbon atoms;
[0028] iv) at least one volatile oil, preferably hydrocarbon-based and / or silicone oil;
[0029] v) at least one monoalcohol comprising from 2 to 4 carbon atoms; and
[0030] said composition (B) comprising at least:
[0031] vii) a crosslinking agent chosen from (poly)amine compounds, preferably chosen from hydrophilic (poly)amine compounds;
[0032] viii) optionally an organic or mineral acid; and
[0033] ix) optionally water;
[0034] said composition (A) and / or said composition (B) comprising vi) at least one particulate dyestuff.
[0035] The inventors have thus found, surprisingly, that the application of ingredients i) to ix) to keratin materials makes it possible to improve the persistence of the coloured deposit on the keratin materials treated with this combination, notably with respect to liquid fatty substances such as oils and water.Detailed description
[0036] DEFINITIONS
[0037] For the purposes of the present invention, throughout the description, including the claims, and unless otherwise indicated:
[0038] The term “cosmetic” refers to a composition that is compatible with the skin, the mucous membranes and the integuments. The composition according to the invention is non-therapeutic.
[0039] The term “keratin materials” refers in particular to the skin, mucous membranes, keratin fibres, eyelashes and integuments.
[0040] The term “the skin” means all the skin of the body, and preferably the skin of the face, the scalp, the neckline, the neck, the arms and forearms, the eyelids, around the mouth or behind the ears, the hollow of the elbow, the back of the knees, the hands, the wrists and the ankles, or even more preferably the skin of the face (in particular the forehead, the nose, the cheeks and the chin), the neckline and the neck.
[0041] A composition according to the invention comprises a physiologically acceptable medium, i.e. one which has a pleasant colour, odour and feel and which does not give rise to any unacceptable discomfort, i.e. stinging, tautness or redness, that is liable to discourage the user from applying this composition.
[0042] For the purposes of the present invention, the term “fatty substance” refers to an organic compound insoluble in water at ordinary temperature (20°C) and at atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg) (solubility of less than 5%, preferably less than 1% and even more preferentially less than 0.1%); in addition, the fatty substances are soluble in organic solvents under the same temperature and pressure conditions, for instance in halogenated solvents such as chloroform or dichloromethane, lower alcohols such as ethanol or aromatic solvents such as benzene or toluene.
[0043] The term “oil” refers to a fatty substance that is liquid at room temperature (20°C) and atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg).
[0044] The term “hydrocarbon-based oil” refers to an oil formed essentially from, or even constituted of, carbon and hydrogen atoms, and possibly oxygen and nitrogen atoms, and not containing any silicon or fluorine atoms. It may contain alcohol, ester, ether, carboxylic acid, amine and / or amide groups.The term “aryF radical refers to a monocyclic or fused or non-fused polycyclic hydrocarbonbased group comprising from 6 to 14 carbon atoms, and at least one ring of which is aromatic; preferentially, the aryl radical is a phenyl, biphenyl, naphthyl, indenyl, anthracenyl or tetrahydronaphthyl.
[0045] The term "heteroaryl" radical refers to a monocyclic or fused or non-fused polycyclic, 5- to 14-membered group, comprising from 1 to 6 heteroatoms chosen from nitrogen, oxygen, sulfur and selenium, and at least one ring of which is aromatic.
[0046] The term “ (hetero)aryF refers to aryl or heteroaryl groups.
[0047] The term “cyclic” or “ cycloalky T radical refers to a monocyclic or fused or non-fused polycyclic, non-aromatic cyclic hydrocarbon-based radical containing from 5 to 14 carbon atoms, which may include one or more unsaturations; the cycloalkyl is preferably a cyclohexyl group.
[0048] The term “anhydrous” implies an amount of less than 5% by weight of water, preferentially less than 3% by weight of water, better still less than 1% by weight of water, relative to the total weight of composition (A) or (B) in question; even more preferentially, the composition is free of water.
[0049] Unless otherwise indicated, the limits delimiting the extent of a range of values are included in that range of values.
[0050] Unless otherwise indicated, the amounts indicated are expressed as mass percentages.
[0051] PROCESS FOR MAKING UP KERATIN MATERIALS
[0052] The first subject of the invention is a process for making up keratin materials, notably the skin and / or eyelashes and / or eyebrows, comprising at least the application to said keratin materials of at least two separate compositions (A) and (B):
[0053] - said composition (A) comprising at least:
[0054] i) at least one copolymer bearing acetoacetate function(s) CP, comprising repeat units derived from at least one monomer of formula (I) below:
[0055]
[0056] in which:
[0057] - Rarepresents a hydrogen atom or a linear or branched (Ci-C4)alkyl group;
[0058] - Rband Rc, which may be identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or a linear or branched (Ci-C4)alkyl group;
[0059] - Rdrepresents a linear or branched (Ci-C4)alkyl group; and
[0060] - L represents a linear or branched (Ci-Ce)alkylene, or cycloalkylene, group, and from at least one monomer, preferably from at least two monomers chosen from C1-C4 alkyl acrylates, C1-C4 alkyl methacrylates and mixtures thereof;
[0061] ii) at least one polyol;
[0062] iii) at least one alkyl acetate comprising from 2 to 4 carbon atoms;
[0063] iv) at least one volatile oil, preferably hydrocarbon-based and / or silicone oil; and v) at least one monoalcohol comprising from 2 to 4 carbon atoms;
[0064] - said composition (B) comprising at least:
[0065] vii) a crosslinking agent chosen from (poly)amine compounds, preferably chosen from hydrophilic (poly)amine compounds;
[0066] viii) optionally an organic or mineral acid; and
[0067] ix) optionally water;
[0068] - said composition (A) and / or said composition (B) comprising vi) at least one particulate dyestuff.
[0069] In particular, the first subject of the invention is a process for making up keratin materials, notably the skin and / or eyelashes and / or eyebrows, comprising at least the application to said keratin materials of at least two separate compositions (A) and (B):
[0070] - said composition (A) comprising at least:
[0071] i) at least one copolymer bearing acetoacetate function(s) CP, comprising repeat units derived from at least one monomer of formula (I) below:
[0072]
[0073] in which:
[0074] - Rarepresents a hydrogen atom or a linear or branched (Ci-C4)alkyl group;
[0075] - Rband Rc, which may be identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or a linear or branched (Ci-C4)alkyl group;
[0076] - Rdrepresents a linear or branched (Ci-C4)alkyl group; and
[0077] - L represents a linear or branched (Ci-Ce)alkylene, or cycloalkylene, group, and from at least one monomer, preferably from at least two monomers chosen from C1-C4 alkyl acrylates, C1-C4 alkyl methacrylates and mixtures thereof;
[0078] ii) at least one polyol;
[0079] iii) at least one alkyl acetate comprising from 2 to 4 carbon atoms;
[0080] iv) at least one volatile oil, preferably hydrocarbon-based and / or silicone oil; and v) at least one monoalcohol comprising from 2 to 4 carbon atoms;
[0081] - said composition (B) comprising at least:
[0082] vii) a crosslinking agent chosen from hydrophilic (poly)amine compounds chosen from amino alkoxysilanes; from polyamine compounds comprising from 2 to 20 carbon atoms, being linear or branched, cyclic or acyclic, conjugated or non-conjugated, aromatic or nonaromatic, optionally substituted with at least a hydroxyl group (-OH) and / or with a carboxylic group (-C(=O)OH) and / or optionally interrupted with one or more heteroatoms chosen from -S-, -S-S-, -N(R”)-, preferably with -N(R”)-, with R” denoting a hydrogen atom or a C1-C4 alkyl radical, preferably a hydrogen atom; from chitosans; from compounds of formula (III): ALK[(O-ALK’)m-NH2]2 (III); from polyethers triamines, in particular of formula (IV): ALK’”[(O-ALK’)m-NH2]3; from polybutadienes a, co-diamine; from hyperbranched polymers comprising at least one amino group and dendrimers bearing at least one amino group, such as PAMAM polyamidoamine dendrimers with an ethylenediamine core and a terminal amine function; and mixture thereof;
[0083] viii) an organic or mineral acid; and
[0084] ix) water;- said composition (A) and / or said composition (B) comprising vi) at least one particulate dyestuff.
[0085] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the process of the invention comprises the simultaneous application of ingredients i) and vii).
[0086] According to another particular embodiment of the invention, the process comprises at least two steps in which ingredients i) and vii) are applied in separate, successive steps to the keratin materials, independently of the order of application.
[0087] According to a particular embodiment, the ingredient(s) i) are applied to the keratin materials, then the ingredient(s) vii) are applied to the keratin materials.
[0088] According to another particular embodiment, the ingredient(s) vii) are applied to the keratin materials, then the ingredient(s) i) are applied to the keratin materials.
[0089] According to a particular embodiment, composition (A) and composition (B) are applied simultaneously or sequentially, independently of the order of application, to the keratin materials.
[0090] In a preferred variant of the invention, in one step, a composition obtained by extemporaneous mixing, at the time of application, of composition (A) and composition (B) as defined above is applied.
[0091] In another variant, composition (A) and composition (B) are applied sequentially to the keratin materials, composition (A) possibly being applied to the keratin materials before composition (B), or vice versa. Thus, according to this variant, the process according to the invention comprises two successive steps of applying, to said keratin materials, composition (A) and then composition (B), or composition (B) and then composition (A).
[0092] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the process for making up keratin materials is a process for making up the skin, the eyelashes and / or the eyebrows.
[0093] Compositions (A) and (B) may be anhydrous, aqueous such as aqueous-alcoholic and / or comprise one or more fatty substances, notably one or more oils other than volatile hydrocarbon-based oils, as defined below.
[0094] Composition (B) may contain a volatile hydrocarbon-based oil, identical or different to the hydrocarbon-based oil present in composition (A).After application of compositions (A) and (B), a persistent, non-tacky coloured deposit is advantageously obtained. The deposit obtained is also resistant to oils, water, sebum and friction.
[0095] According to a particular embodiment, the compositions are applied to dry keratin materials. According to a particular embodiment, the keratin materials are dried or left to dry after application of compositions (A) and (B), in particular after application of each different composition.
[0096] (i) Copolymer bearing acetoacetate function(s)
[0097] As stated above, the process according to the invention comprises at least the application, to keratin materials, of a composition (A) comprising at least one copolymer bearing acetoacetate function(s), more simply referred to as “copolymer” or “CP”, comprising repeat units derived from at least one monomer of formula (I) below:
[0098]
[0099] in which:
[0100] - Rarepresents a hydrogen atom or a linear or branched (Ci-C4)alkyl group;
[0101] - Rband Rc, which may be identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or a linear or branched (Ci-C4)alkyl group;
[0102] - Rdrepresents a linear or branched (Ci-C4)alkyl group; and
[0103] - L represents a linear or branched (Ci-Ce)alkylene, or cycloalkylene, group, and from at least one monomer, preferably from at least two monomers chosen from C1-C4 alkyl acrylates, C1-C4 alkyl methacrylates and mixtures thereof.
[0104] Preferably, in formula (I):
[0105] - Rarepresents a hydrogen atom or a methyl group, more preferentially a methyl group; - Rband Rcrepresent a hydrogen atom;
[0106] - Rdrepresents a methyl group; and
[0107] - L represents a (Ci-C4)alkylene group, and more preferentially L represents ethylene.According to a preferred embodiment, the monomer of formula (I) is chosen from acetoacetoxyethyl acrylate, acetoacetoxyethyl methacrylate, and mixtures thereof.
[0108] According to a preferred embodiment, the copolymer(s) are obtained by polymerization of:
[0109] 1% to 30% by weight, in particular 5% to 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the monomers, of at least one monomer (1) of formula (I) as defined above; and 70% to 99% by weight, in particular 80% to 95% by weight, relative to the total weight of the monomers, of at least one monomer (2), preferably at least two monomers (2) chosen from C1-C4 alkyl acrylates, C1-C4 alkyl methacrylates and mixtures thereof, it being understood that said copolymers CP are obtained by polymerization of at least one monomer (1) with at least one monomer (2) and preferably at least two monomers (2).
[0110] Said copolymer CP may be a statistical, alternating (block) or gradient copolymer.
[0111] Preferably, the copolymer CP is a statistical copolymer.
[0112] For the purposes of the present invention, the term “statistical copolymer” refers to a copolymer formed of macromolecules in which the sequential distribution of the monomer units (1) and (2) obeys known statistical laws. In other words, in a statistical copolymer, the various monomers follow each other in any order. Statistical copolymers are also known as random copolymers. For example, the sequence of a statistical copolymer, formed from monomers A and B, may be as follows: A-A-B-A-B-B-B-B-A-A-B-A.
[0113] The copolymer CP according to the present invention is in particular free of monomer units different from the monomers (1) and (2) defined above and below.
[0114] Monomer (1)
[0115] According to the invention, the copolymer CP comprises from 1% to 30% by weight, more particularly from 1% to 20% by weight, notably from 5% to 20% by weight, and preferably from 5% to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the monomers, of at least one monomer (1) of formula (I):
[0116]
[0117] in which:
[0118] - Rarepresents a hydrogen atom or a linear or branched (Ci-C4)alkyl group; preferably, Rarepresents a methyl group;
[0119] - Rband Rc, which may be identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or a linear or branched (Ci-C4)alkyl group; preferably, Rband Rcrepresent a hydrogen atom;
[0120] - Rdrepresents a linear or branched (Ci-C4)alkyl group; preferably, Rdrepresents a methyl group; and
[0121] - L represents a linear or branched (Ci-Ce)alkylene, or cycloalkylene, group; preferably, L represents a (Ci-C4)alkylene group, in particular ethylene.
[0122] In particular, the monomer (1) is chosen from acetoacetoxy ethyl acrylate, acetoacetoxy ethyl methacrylate, and mixtures thereof, and preferably, the monomer (1) is acetoacetoxy ethyl methacrylate.
[0123] Acetoacetoxyethyl acrylate is a compound of empirical formula C9H12O5, and of semi-structural formula:
[0124]
[0125] As acetoacetoxyethyl acrylate, mention may notably be made of the product sold under the name Butanoic acid, 3-oxo-2-[(l-oxo-2-propen-l-yl)oxy]ethyl ester by the company Alfa Chemistry.
[0126] Acetoacetoxy ethyl methacrylate is a compound of empirical formula C10H 4O5, and of semi-structural formula:
[0127]
[0128] As acetoacetoxy ethyl methacrylate, mention may notably be made of the product sold under the name Eastman™ AAEM by the company Eastman.
[0129] MonomerAccording to the invention, the copolymer comprises from 70% to 99% by weight, in particular from 80% to 95% by weight, preferably from 85% to 95% by weight, of at least one monomer (2) chosen from C1-C4 alkyl acrylates, C1-C4 alkyl methacrylates, and mixtures thereof, relative to the total weight of the monomers.
[0130] Among the C1-C4 alkyl acrylates and C1-C4 alkyl methacrylates that may be used as monomers (2), mention may be made in particular of methyl acrylate, ethyl acrylate, n-propyl acrylate, isopropyl acrylate, n-butyl acrylate, isobutyl acrylate, tert-butyl acrylate, methyl methacrylate, ethyl methacrylate, n-propyl methacrylate, isopropyl methacrylate, n-butyl methacrylate, isobutyl methacrylate, tert-butyl methacrylate and mixtures thereof. Preferably, the monomer (2) is a C1-C4 alkyl acrylate, in particular chosen from butyl acrylate, isobutyl acrylate and tert-butyl acrylate.
[0131] Butyl acrylate is a compound of empirical formula C7H13O2 and of semi -structural formula:
[0132]
[0133] As butyl acrylate, mention may notably be made of the product sold under the name Butyl acrylate by the company Sigma-Aldrich.
[0134] According to a preferred embodiment, the monomer (2) is at least one monomer chosen from C1-C4 alkyl acrylates and / or C1-C4 alkyl methacrylates, preferably chosen from C1-C4 alkyl acrylates, and more preferentially the monomer (2) is at least butyl acrylate.
[0135] Isobutyl acrylate is a compound of empirical formula C7H12O2 and of semi -structural formula:
[0136]
[0137] As isobutyl acrylate, mention may notably be made of the product sold under the name Isobutyl acrylate by the company Sigma-Aldrich.tert-Butyl acrylate is a compound of empirical formula C7H12O2 and of semi -structural formula:
[0138]
[0139] As tert-butyl acrylate, mention may notably be made of the product sold under the name tert-Butyl acrylate by the company Sigma-Aldrich.
[0140] According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the copolymer(s) CP comprise a first monomer (2) chosen from C1-C4 alkyl acrylates, C1-C4 alkyl methacrylates, and mixtures thereof, preferably C1-C4 alkyl acrylates, even more preferentially isobutyl acrylate, and present in a content of from 5% to 40% by weight, in particular from 15% to 30% by weight, relative to the total weight of the monomers, a second monomer (2) different from the first monomer (2) mentioned above, chosen from C1-C4 alkyl acrylates, C1-C4 alkyl methacrylates, and mixtures thereof, preferably C1-C4 alkyl acrylates, even more preferentially tert-butyl acrylate, and present in a content of from 30% to 80% by weight, in particular from 50% to 75% by weight, preferably from 60% to 70% by weight relative to the total weight of the monomers, and at least one monomer (1) as defined above, in particular chosen from acetoacetoxyethyl acrylate, acetoacetoxyethyl methacrylate, and mixtures thereof, and preferably, the monomer (1) is acetoacetoxyethyl methacrylate and is present in a content of from 5% to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the monomers.
[0141] In particular, the copolymer CP comprises from 80% to 99% by weight of at least one monomer (2) chosen from C1-C4 alkyl acrylates and C1-C4 alkyl methacrylates relative to the total weight of the monomers.
[0142] Most particularly, the copolymer CP according to the present invention is preferably obtained by copolymerization of isobutyl acrylate, tert-butyl acrylate and acetoacetoxy ethyl methacrylate, more preferentially in an isobutyl acrylate / tert-butyl acrylate / acetoacetoxy ethyl methacrylate mass ratio of 25 / 65 / 10.
[0143] Preferably, composition (A) according to the invention comprises the copolymer(s) CP in a total content ranging from 1% to 45% by weight of active material, more preferentially from5% to 35% by weight of active material, and more preferentially still ranging from 15% to 30% by weight of active material, relative to the total weight of composition (A).
[0144] According to a preferred embodiment, composition (A) according to the invention comprises, as copolymers CP, at least the copolymer formed of isobutyl acrylate, tert-butyl acrylate and acetoacetoxy ethyl methacrylate, preferably in a ratio of 25 / 65 / 10.
[0145] When composition (A) according to the invention comprises, as copolymers CP, at least the copolymer formed of isobutyl acrylate, tert-butyl acrylate and acetoacetoxyethyl methacrylate preferably in a ratio of 25 / 65 / 10, the total content of copolymer(s) CP ranges from 5% to 40% by weight of active material, preferably from 10% to 35% by weight of active material, and more preferentially still ranges from 20% to 30% by weight of active material, relative to the total weight of composition (A).
[0146] ii) Polyol
[0147] As stated above, a composition (A) according to the invention comprises at least one polyol. Preferably, the polyol(s) bear:
[0148] - a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched hydrocarbon-based chain comprising at least two hydroxyl functions; or
[0149] - a saturated, linear or branched hydrocarbon-based chain in which one or more carbon atoms are replaced with an oxygen atom and which comprises at least two hydroxyl functions, for instance polyethylene glycols (PEGs) containing from 4 to 8 ethylene glycol units.
[0150] Preferably, the polyol(s) bear a saturated, linear or branched hydrocarbon-based chain. Advantageously, the polyol(s) comprise a number of carbon atoms ranging from 2 to 20, preferably from 2 to 10, and comprise from 2 to 12 and better still from 2 to 8 hydroxyl functions.
[0151] The polyol(s) may be chosen from glycols such as ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, 1,3-propanediol, isoprene glycol, butylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, polypropylene glycol, caprylyl glycol, hexylene glycol, glycerol, diglycerol, erythritol, pentaerythritol, arabitol, adonitol, sorbitol, dulcitol, maltitol and panthenol.
[0152] Among these polyols, glycerol, caprylyl glycol, propylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, butylene glycol, hexylene glycol, 1,3 -propanediol and mixtures thereof, and even more preferentially glycerol, caprylyl glycol, hexylene glycol, and mixtures thereof, are preferentially chosen.According to a particular embodiment, the polyol(s) may be present in the composition according to the invention in an amount ranging from 0.1% to 35% by weight, preferably from 0.5% to 30% by weight, better still from 0.5% to 25% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0153] iii) C2-C4 alkyl acetate
[0154] As stated above, a composition (A) according to the invention comprises at least one C2-C4 alkyl acetate.
[0155] Short-chain alkyl acetates are esters with an alkyl chain comprising 2 to 4 carbon atoms. They are chosen in particular from ethyl acetate, methyl acetate, propyl acetate, butyl acetate and n-butyl acetate.
[0156] Advantageously, composition (A) comprises the C2-C4 alkyl acetates(s) in a content ranging from 1% to 50% by weight, preferably from 5% to 40% by weight, more preferentially from 10% to 30% by weight, relative to the total weight of composition (A).
[0157] iv) Volatile oil
[0158] As stated above, a composition (A) according to the invention comprises at least one volatile oil. The volatile oil(s) are chosen from volatile hydrocarbon-based or silicone oils, and mixtures thereof. Preferably, the volatile oil(s) are chosen from volatile hydrocarbon-based oils.
[0159] The term “volatile oil” refers to an oil with a non-zero vapour pressure at 20°C, and atmospheric pressure, ranging in particular from 2.66 Pa to 40000 Pa, in particular up to 13 000 Pa and more particularly up to 1300 Pa (standard OCDE 104).
[0160] According to a variant of the invention, composition (B) optionally comprises at least one volatile oil, identical or different from that or those of composition (A).
[0161] According to an embodiment of the invention, the volatile oil(s) iv) are chosen from hydrocarbon-based oils, in particular chosen from:
[0162] hydrocarbon-based oils containing from 8 to 16 carbon atoms, in particular branched Cs-Cie alkanes, in particular isoalkanes, more particularly isoalkanes (also known as isoparaffins), preferably C13-C16 isoparaffins, isododecane, isodecane, isohexadecane, for example the oils sold under the trade names Isopar or Permethyl, alone or as mixtures, preferably isododecane (also known as 2,2,4,4,6-pentamethylheptane); linear alkanes, inparticular Cn-Ci6 alkanes, alone or as mixtures, in particular hexane, decane, undecane, tridecane, n-dodecane (C12) and n-tetradecane (C14), mixtures of n-undecane (Cn) and n-tridecane (C13), and mixtures thereof; C5-C12 cyclic, non-aromatic alkanes; and mixtures thereof;
[0163] short-chain esters containing from 5 to 8 carbon atoms;
[0164] carbonate hydrocarbon-based oils of structure R’I-O-C(O)-O-R’2 in which R’i and R’2 independently denote a linear, branched or cyclic C4-C8 alkyl group, preferably a C4-C8 alkyl group, more preferentially chosen from dibutyl carbonate or dipentyl carbonate; ether oils of formula R1-O-R2 in which Ri and R2, independently of each other, denote a linear, branched or cyclic C4-C8 alkyl group, preferably a C4-C8 alkyl group.
[0165] According to another embodiment of the invention, the volatile oil(s) iv) are chosen from silicone oils, in particular chosen from:
[0166] silicone oils comprising in particular from 2 to 7 silicon atoms, these silicone oils optionally including alkyl or alkoxy groups containing from 1 to 10 carbon atoms, such as dimethicones of viscosity 5 and 6 cSt, cyclopentadimethylsiloxane, dodecamethylpentasiloxane, cyclohexadimethylsiloxane, octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane, heptamethylhexyltrisiloxane, heptamethyloctyltrisiloxane, hexamethyldisiloxane, octamethyltrisiloxane, decamethyltetrasiloxane, dodecamethylpentasiloxane, and mixtures thereof.
[0167] Preferably, composition (A) comprises at least one volatile hydrocarbon-based oil iv) chosen from Cs-Cie alkanes, in particular branched alkanes, alone or as a mixture, and preferably isododecane.
[0168] According to a possible embodiment, composition (B) contains at least one volatile oil, preferably hydrocarbon-based, chosen from Cs-Cie alkanes, in particular branched alkanes, alone or as mixtures, preferably isododecane.
[0169] According to another particular embodiment, composition (B) comprises at least one volatile oil different from the volatile oil present in composition (A).
[0170] According to another particular embodiment, composition (B) comprises at least one volatile oil identical to the volatile oil present in composition (A).
[0171] According to another possible embodiment, composition (B) does not contain volatile oil.Advantageously, composition (A) comprises the volatile, preferably hydrocarbon-based, oil(s) in a content ranging from 1% to 70% by weight, preferably from 5% to 50% by weight, more preferentially from 10% to 30% by weight, relative to the total weight of composition (A).
[0172] In the case where composition (B) comprises at least one volatile oil, preferably hydrocarbon-based, its content ranges from 0% to 80% by weight, more particularly from 30% to 60% by weight, relative to the total weight of composition (B).
[0173] v) C2-C4 monoalcohol
[0174] As stated above, a composition (A) according to the invention comprises at least one C2-C4 monoalcohol.
[0175] According to a variant of the invention, composition (B) may optionally comprise at least one C2-C4 monoalcohol, identical to or different from that or those of composition (A). Preferably, the monoalcohol(s) of the invention are chosen from saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched monoalcohols comprising from 2 to 4 carbon atoms.
[0176] In particular, the monoalcohol(s) may be chosen from ethanol, isopropanol, n-propanol, tertbutanol, butanol, and mixtures thereof.
[0177] Advantageously, composition (A) comprises the C2-C4 monoalcohols in a content ranging from 1% to 60% by weight, preferably from 3% to 40% by weight, more preferentially from 5% to 25% by weight, relative to the total weight of composition (A).
[0178] In the case where composition (B) comprises at least one C2-C4 monoalcohol, its content ranges from 1% to 60% by weight, preferably from 3% to 40% by weight, more preferentially from 5% to 25% by weight, relative to the total weight of composition (B).
[0179] vi) Particulate dyestuff
[0180] As stated above, at least one out of composition (A) and composition (B) according to the invention comprises at least one particulate dyestuff.
[0181] More particularly, composition (A) and / or composition (B) of the invention comprises at least one particulate dyestuff, and preferably in a proportion of at least 0.01% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition under consideration.
[0182] For obvious reasons, this amount is liable to vary significantly with regard to the intensity of the desired colour effect and of the colour intensity afforded by the dyestuffs underconsideration, and adjusting same clearly falls within the competence of a person skilled in the art.
[0183] Pigments
[0184] The term “pigments” refers to white or coloured, mineral or organic particles, which are insoluble in the composition, and which are intended to colour and / or opacify the resulting composition and / or deposit.
[0185] Mineral pigments
[0186] According to a particular embodiment, the pigments used according to the invention are chosen from mineral pigments.
[0187] The term “mineral pigment” refers to any pigment that satisfies the definition in Ullmann’s encyclopedia in the chapter on inorganic pigments. Among the mineral pigments that are useful in the present invention, mention may be made of zirconium oxide or cerium oxide, and also zinc oxide, iron oxide (black, yellow or red) or chromium oxide, manganese violet, ultramarine blue, chromium hydrate and ferric aluminium ferrocyanide, titanium dioxide, and metal powders, for instance aluminium powder and copper powder. The following mineral pigments may also be used: Ta20s, TisOs, Ti2Ch, TiO, ZrCh as a mixture with TiCh, ZrCh, Nb20s, CeCh or ZnS.
[0188] The size of the pigment that is useful in the context of the present invention is generally greater than 100 nm and may range up to 10 pm, preferably from 200 nm to 5 pm and more preferentially from 300 nm to 1 pm.
[0189] According to a particular form of the invention, the pigments have a size characterized by a D
[0050] of greater than 100 nm and possibly up to 10 pm, preferably from 200 nm to 5 pm and more preferentially from 300 nm to 1 pm.
[0190] The sizes are measured by static light scattering using a commercial MasterSizer 3000® particle size analyser from Malvern, which makes it possible to determine the particle size distribution of all of the particles over a wide range which may extend from 0.01 pm to 1000 pm. The data are processed on the basis of the standard Mie scattering theory. This theory is the most suitable for size distributions ranging from the submicronic to the multimicronic; it makes it possible to determine an “effective” particle diameter. This theory is notably described in the publication by Van de Hulst, H.C., “Light Scattering by Small Particles”, Chapters 9 and 10, Wiley, New York, 1957.
[0191] D
[0050] represents the maximum size exhibited by 50% by volume of the particles.According to a particular form of the invention, the mineral pigment comprises a lipophilic or hydrophobic coating, said coating preferably being present in the oily phase of the composition according to the invention.
[0192] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the pigments may be coated with at least one compound chosen from metal soaps; N-acylamino acids or salts thereof; lecithin and derivatives thereof; isopropyl triisostearyl titanate; isostearyl sebacate; natural plant or animal waxes; polar synthetic waxes; fatty esters; phospholipids; and mixtures thereof. According to a particular embodiment, the pigments may be coated according to the invention with an N-acylamino acid or a salt thereof, which may comprise an acyl group containing from 8 to 22 carbon atoms, for instance a 2-ethylhexanoyl, caproyl, lauroyl, myristoyl, palmitoyl, stearoyl or cocoyl group.
[0193] The amino acid may be, for example, lysine, glutamic acid or alanine. The salts of these compounds may be the aluminium, magnesium, calcium, zirconium, zinc, sodium or potassium salts. Thus, according to a particularly preferred embodiment, the pigments may be coated with an N-acylamino acid derivative which may in particular be a glutamic acid derivative and / or a salt thereof, and more particularly a stearoyl glutamate, such as for example aluminium stearoyl glutamate. As examples of pigments treated with aluminium stearoyl glutamate, mention may be made of black CI 77499, red CI 77491 and yellow CI 77492 iron oxide pigments sold under the trade name NAI® by Miyoshi Kasei.
[0194] According to a preferred embodiment, the pigments according to the invention may be coated with isopropyl triisostearyl titanate. Mention may be made, as examples of pigments treated with isopropyl titanium triisostearate (ITT), of titanium dioxide pigments and black, red and yellow iron oxide pigments sold under the trade names BWB0-I2® (Iron Oxide CI 77499 and Isopropyl Titanium Triisostearate), BWY0-I2® (Iron Oxide CI 77492 and Isopropyl Titanium Triisostearate) and BWR0-I2® (Iron Oxide CI 77491 and Isopropyl Titanium Triisostearate) by Kobo.
[0195] Among the mineral pigments, mention may also be made of pearlescent agents.
[0196] They may be chosen from white pearlescent pigments such as mica coated with titanium or with bismuth oxychloride, coloured pearlescent pigments such as titanium mica with iron oxides, titanium mica notably with ferric blue or chromium oxide, titanium mica with an organic pigment of the abovementioned type, and also pearlescent pigments based on bismuth oxychloride.Organic pigments
[0197] The pigments that may be used according to the invention may also be organic pigments. The term “organic pigment” refers to any pigment that satisfies the definition in Ullmann’s encyclopedia in the chapter on organic pigments. The organic pigment may notably be chosen from nitroso, nitro, azo, xanthene, quinoline, anthraquinone, phthalocyanine, metalcomplex type, isoindolinone, isoindoline, quinacridone, perinone, perylene, diketopyrrolopyrrole, thioindigo, dioxazine, triphenylmethane or quinophthalone compounds.
[0198] The organic pigment(s) may be chosen, for example, from carmine, carbon black, aniline black, melanin, azo yellow, quinacridone, phthalocyanine blue, sorghum red, the blue pigments codified in the Color Index under the references CI 42090, 69800, 69825, 73000, 74100 and 74160, the yellow pigments codified in the Color Index under the references CI 11680, 11710, 15985, 19140, 20040, 21100, 21108, 47000 and 47005, the green pigments codified in the Color Index under the references CI 61565, 61570 and 74260, the orange pigments codified in the Color Index under the references CI 11725, 15510, 45370 and 71105, the red pigments codified in the Color Index under the references CI 12085, 12120, 12370, 12420, 12490, 14700, 15525, 15580, 15620, 15630, 15800, 15850, 15865, 15880, 17200, 26100, 45380, 45410, 58000, 73360, 73915 and 75470, and the pigments obtained by oxidative polymerization of indole or phenol derivatives as described in patent FR 2679 771.
[0199] These pigments may also be in the form of composite pigments as described in patent EPl 184426. These composite pigments may notably be composed of particles including a mineral core at least partially covered with an organic pigment and at least one binder for fixing the organic pigments to the core.
[0200] The pigment may also be a lake.
[0201] The term “lake” means insolubilized dyes adsorbed onto insoluble particles, the assembly thus obtained remaining insoluble during use.
[0202] The mineral substrates onto which the dyes are adsorbed are, for example, alumina, silica, calcium sodium borosilicate or calcium aluminium borosilicate and aluminium.
[0203] Among the organic dyes, mention may be made of cochineal carmine. Mention may also be made of the products known under the following names: D&C Red 21 (CI 45 380), D&C Orange 5 (CI 45370), D&C Red 27 (CI 45410), D&C Orange 10 (CI 45425), D&C Red 3(CI 45430), D&C Red 4 (CI 15510), D&C Red 33 (CI17200), D&C Yellow 5 (CI 19140), D&C Yellow 6 (CI 15985), D&C Green (CI 61570), D&C Yellow 10 (CI 77002), D&C Green 3 (CI 42053), D&C Blue 1 (CI 42090), D&C BLACK 2 (CI 77266).
[0204] As examples of lakes, mention may be made of the products known under the name D&C YELLOW 5 (CI 19140), D&C BLACK 2 (CI 77266), D&C BLUE 1 (CI 42090), and mixtures thereof.
[0205] The dyestuffs, preferably the pigments, may be present in concentrations ranging from 0.01% to 50% by weight, preferably from 1% to 40% by weight and more particularly from 2% to 20% relative to the total weight of the composition containing them.
[0206] Preferably, the particulate dyestuff(s) are chosen from pigments; preferably, the pigment(s) of the invention are chosen from carbon black, iron oxides, notably yellow, red and black iron oxides, and micas coated with iron oxide, blue and violet pigments, such as Blue 1 Lake, azo pigments, notably red azo pigments, such as D&C Red 7, alkali metal salts of lithol red, such as the calcium salt of lithol red B, even more preferentially black iron oxides, red iron oxides, yellow iron oxides and azo pigments, notably red azo pigments, such as D&C Red 7.
[0207] Advantageously, the process for making up keratin materials is a process for making up the skin, eyelashes and / or eyebrows, in particular a makeup process using mascara, eyeliner, eye shadow or foundation compositions.
[0208] vii) Crosslinking agent
[0209] As stated above, a composition (B) according to the invention comprises at least one crosslinking agent, preferably at least one hydrophilic crosslinking agent.
[0210] For the purposes of the invention, the term “crosslinking agent”, also termed “R”, denotes a compound that is capable of establishing with at least one acetoacetate function of the copolymer(s) CP used in the treatment process according to the invention:
[0211] at least one covalent bond,
[0212] at least one donor-acceptor (dative) bond, and / or
[0213] at least one coordination bond,
[0214] and thus crosslinking this or these compound(s).Preferably, the term “crosslinking agent”, also termed “R”, denotes a compound that is capable of establishing at least one covalent bond with an acetoacetate function of the copolymer(s) CP used in the treatment process according to the invention and thus crosslinking this or these copolymer(s).
[0215] For the purposes of the present invention, the terms “crosslinking agent” and “crosslinker” are understood to be equivalent.
[0216] The crosslinking agent(s) are preferably present in a weight content ranging from 1% to 100% by weight of active material, in particular ranging from 5% to 100% by weight of active material, and more particularly from 5% to 70% by weight of active material, relative to the total weight of composition (B) containing same.
[0217] According to a possible embodiment, the crosslinking agent(s), in particular the hydrophilic crosslinking agent(s) are present in a weight content ranging from 1% to 50% by weight of active material, in particular ranging from 1% to 40% by weight of active material, and more particularly from 5% to 30% by weight of active material, relative to the total weight of composition (B) containing same.
[0218] More specifically, the crosslinking agent(s) suitable for the invention may be chosen from compounds containing amine functions, referred to as (poly)amine compounds.
[0219] The term “poly(amine) compounds” refers to compounds containing respectively at least one primary or secondary amine function.
[0220] According to a first variant of the invention, the (poly)amine compound(s) may be compounds comprising from 2 to 20 carbon atoms, in particular non-polymeric compounds, they may be acyclic or cyclic, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, conjugated or non-conjugated, aromatic or non-aromatic, optionally substituted with at least a hydroxyl radical (-OH), carboxylic radical (-C(=O)OH), optionally interrupted with one or more heteroatoms or groups chosen from -O-, -S-, -S-S-, -Si(R’)2-, -N(R”)- preferably -O-, -Si(R’)2- and -N(R”)-, or combinations thereof such as -Si(R’)2-O- or -O-Si(R’)2-, with R’, identical or different, representing a (Ci-C4)alkyl group such as methyl, and R” representing a hydrogen atom or a (Ci-C4)alkyl group, preferably a hydrogen atom. The term “non-polymeric compound” means a compound which is not directly obtained via a monomer polymerization reaction.According to a first particular embodiment of the invention, the (poly)amine compound(s) are monoamine compounds, i.e. they contain only one primary and / or secondary amine group, preferably a primary amine group (NH2).
[0221] For example, the (poly)amine compound(s) may be chosen from amino alkoxysilanes, notably of formula R’iSi(OR’2)z(R’3)x in which:
[0222] R’I is a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, cyclic or acyclic Ci-Ce hydrocarbon-based chain substituted with a group chosen from primary amine groups NH2 or secondary amine groups -N(H)R with R representing a C1-C4 alkyl, an aryl or a benzyl substituted with an amino group or with a C1-C4 aminoalkyl group; R’i may be interrupted in its chain with a heteroatom (O, S, NH) or a carbonyl group (C)O, R’ 1 being linked to the silicon atom directly via a carbon atom,
[0223] R’2 and R’3, which may be identical or different, represent a linear or branched (Ci-Ce)alkyl group,
[0224] z denotes an integer ranging from 1 to 3, and
[0225] x denotes an integer ranging from 0 to 2,
[0226] with z + x = 3.
[0227] In particular, R’i is an acyclic chain. Preferably, R’i is a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated Ci-Ce hydrocarbon-based chain substituted with an amine -NH2 or -N(H)R group, with R representing a Ci-Ce alkyl, a C3-C6 cycloalkyl or a Ce aromatic group. More preferentially, R’i is a saturated linear Ci-Ce hydrocarbon-based chain substituted with an amine group NH2. Even more preferentially, R’i is a saturated linear C2-C4 hydrocarbonbased chain substituted with an amine group NH2.
[0228] In particular, R’2 represents an alkyl group comprising from 1 to 4 carbon atoms; preferably, R’2 represents a linear alkyl group comprising from 1 to 4 carbon atoms and more preferentially R’2 represents an ethyl group.
[0229] In particular, R’3 represents an alkyl group comprising from 1 to 4 carbon atoms; preferably, R’3 represents a linear alkyl group comprising from 1 to 4 carbon atoms and more preferentially R’3 represents methyl or ethyl groups.
[0230] Preferably, the (poly)amine compound(s) are chosen from amino alkoxysilanes, compounds according to the preceding formula in which z is equal to 2 and x is equal to 1, or in which z is equal to 3 and x is equal to 0. Preferably, z is equal to 3.In particular, the (poly)amine compound(s) are chosen from amino alkoxysilanes including only one primary and / or secondary, preferably primary (NH2), amine group, such as 3-aminopropyltri ethoxy silane (APTES), 3 -aminoethyltri ethoxy silane (AETES), 3-aminopropylmethyldi ethoxy silane, N-(2-aminoethyl)-3 -aminopropyltri ethoxy silane, 3-(m-aminophenoxy)propyltrimethoxysilane, p-aminophenyltrimethoxysilane, and N-(2-aminoethylaminomethyl)phenethyltrimethoxysilane.
[0231] Preferably, the (poly)amine compound(s) are chosen from 3 -aminopropyltri ethoxy silane (APTES), 3 -aminoethyltri ethoxy silane (AETES), 3 -aminopropylmethyldi ethoxy silane, and N-(2-aminoethyl)-3-aminopropyltriethoxysilane, and more preferentially 3-aminopropyltriethoxysilane (APTES), in particular the product sold by Sigma- Aldrich. According to a second particular embodiment of the invention, the non-polymeric (poly)amine compound(s) contain at least two primary and / or secondary amine groups, preferably primary amine groups.
[0232] More particularly, the (poly)amine compound(s) are chosen from hydrocarbon-based compounds comprising at least two primary and / or secondary amine functions, at least one of which is a primary amine function, and preferably at least two primary amine functions, comprising from 2 to 20 carbon atoms, linear or branched, acyclic or cyclic, saturated or unsaturated, conjugated or non-conjugated, aromatic or non-aromatic, optionally substituted with at least one hydroxyl radical (-OH) and / or carboxylic radical (-C(=O)OH), optionally interrupted with one or more heteroatoms or groups chosen from -O-, -S-, -S-S-, -N(R”)-, preferably -N(R”)-, with R” representing a hydrogen atom or a (Ci-C4)alkyl group, preferably a hydrogen atom.
[0233] Preferably, the polyamine compound(s) have the formula NEE-alk-NEE in which alk denotes a linear, branched or cyclic divalent C2-C20 hydrocarbon-based chain, optionally substituted with a hydroxyl group (-OH) and / or with a carboxylic group (-C(=O)OH) and / or optionally interrupted with one or more heteroatoms chosen from -N(R”)- with R” denoting a hydrogen atom or a C1-C4 alkyl radical, preferably a hydrogen atom.
[0234] N-m ethyl- 1,3 -diaminopropane, N-propyl-l,3-diaminopropane, N-i sopropy 1-1,3 -diaminopropane, N-cyclohexyl-l,3-diaminopropane, 2-(3-aminopropylamino)ethanol, 1,3-diamino-2-propan-l-ol, 1,6-diaminohexane, 1,7-diaminoheptane, 1,8-diaminooctane, 1,9-di aminononane, 3-(2-aminoethyl)aminopropylamine, bis(3-aminopropyl)amine, methylbi s(3 -aminopropyl)amine, N-(3 -aminopropyl)- 1 ,4-di aminobutane, N,N -dimethyldipropylenetriamine, l,2-bis(3-aminopropylamino)ethane, N,N’-bis(3-aminopropyl)-l,3-propanediamine, ethylenediamine, 1,3 -propylenediamine, 1,4-butylenediamine, lysine, ornithine, cystamine, xylenediamine, tris(2-aminoethyl)amine, 1,3-bis(aminomethyl)cyclohexane, l,4-bis(aminomethyl)cyclohexane, diaminopropanol, spermidine and mixtures thereof may be mentioned in particular.
[0235] The (poly)amine compound(s) that are diamine compounds may be chosen more particularly from a,co-diaminooxaalkanes such as l,8-diamino-3,6-oxaoctane, l,12-diamino-4,9-di oxadodecane, and 1,13 -diamino-4, 7, 10-tri oxatridecane (also called 4,7,10-trioxa-l,13-tridecanediamine), preferably 4,7,10-trioxa-l,13-tridecanediamine.
[0236] According to a variant of the invention, the (poly)amine compound(s) may also be chosen from amino polymers, notably having a weight-average molecular weight ranging from 500 g.mol'1to 1 000 000 g.mol'1, preferably ranging from 500 g.moT1to 500 000 g.mol'1, and preferentially ranging from 500 g.moT1to 100000 g.mol'1.
[0237] Preferably, the (poly)amine compound(s) comprise at least two primary and / or secondary amine groups, preferably primary amine groups.
[0238] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the (poly)amine compound(s) are diamine compounds, i.e. they contain two primary and / or secondary amine groups, preferably primary amine groups (NH2).
[0239] More particularly, they are chosen from the compounds of formula (III) or (IV):
[0240] ALK[(O-ALK’)m-NH2]2(III) or
[0241] H2N-ALK-Si(R’)2-[O-Si(R’)2]m-O-Si(R)2-ALK’-NH2(IV)
[0242] in which formulae (III) and (IV):
[0243] - ALK and ALK’, which may be identical or different, represent a linear or branched (Ci-Ce)alkylene group, preferably a linear group such as propylene,
[0244] - R’, which may be identical or different, represent a (Ci-C4)alkyl group, such as methyl, - m represents an integer greater than or equal to 0; preferably, the value of m is such that the weight-average molecular weight of compound (III) or (IV) ranges from 500 g.mol'1to 55 000 g.mol'1.
[0245] As examples of compounds of formula (IV), mention may be made of those sold under the names DMS-A11, DMS-A12, DMS-A15, DMS-A21, DMS-A31, DMS-A32 and DMS-A35 by the company Gelest.The (poly)amine compound(s) that are diamine compounds are particularly polyether diamines notably of formula H2N-ALK-O-[ALK’-O]m-ALK”-NH2 with ALK, ALK’ and ALK”, which may be identical or different, representing a linear or branched (Ci-Ce)alkylene group, and m representing an integer greater than or equal to 0, such as 4,7,10-tri oxa- 1,13 -tridecanediamine or the compounds known under the reference Jeffamine from the company Hunstman, and more particularly polyethylene glycol and / or polypropylene glycol a,co-diamines (bearing a chain-end amine function) such as the products sold under the names Jeffamine D-230, D-400, D-2000, D-4000, ED-600, ED-9000 and ED-2003. According to another particular embodiment of the invention, the (poly)amine compound(s) are triamine compounds, i.e. they contain three primary and / or secondary amine groups, preferably primary amine groups (NH2). More particularly, they are chosen from polyether triamines notably of formula ALK’”[(O-ALK’)m-NH2]3 with ALK’ as defined previously and ALK’” representing a linear or branched trivalent (Ci-Ce)alkylene group, and m representing an integer greater than or equal to 0.
[0246] As (poly)amine compounds that are triamine compounds, mention may be made in particular of polyether triamines, and notably polyethylene glycol and / or polypropylene glycol a, codiamines (bearing a chain-end amine function) such as the products sold under the names Jeffamine T-403 by Huntsman.
[0247] According to a third particular embodiment of the invention, the (poly)amine compound(s) include more than three primary and / or secondary amine groups, preferably primary amine groups (NH2).
[0248] In this variant, the (poly)amine compound(s) are chosen from poly(meth)acrylates or poly(meth)acrylamides bearing lateral primary or secondary amine functions, such as poly(3-aminopropyl)methacrylamide and poly(2-aminoethyl) methacrylate.
[0249] Also suitable are poly((C2-C5)alkyleneimines), and preferably polyethyleneimines and polypropyleneimines, notably poly(ethyleneimine), in particular the product sold under reference 408700 by the company Aldrich Chemical or under the trade name Lupasol by BASF, notably with a molecular weight ranging from 1 200 g.mol'1to 25 000 g.mol’1; poly(allylamine), in particular the product sold under reference 479136 by the company Aldrich Chemical; polyvinylamines and copolymers thereof, notably with vinylamides, in particular vinylamine / vinylformamide copolymers such as those sold under the name Lupamin® 9030 by the company BASF; polyamine acids containing NH2 groups, such aspolylysine, in particular the product sold by the company JNC Corporation (formerly Chisso); amino dextran, in particular the product sold by the company CarboMer Inc; amino polyvinyl alcohol, in particular the product sold by the company CarboMer Inc; acrylamido(Ci-C6)alkylamine-based copolymers, notably acrylamidopropylamine-based copolymers.
[0250] Chitosan is also suitable. This polysaccharide may in particular be obtained by deacetylation of chitin, chitin being a polysaccharide composed of several N-acetyl-D-glucosamine units linked together by a 3(1,4) bond. The ideal chemical structure of chitosan is more particularly a sequence of P-D-glucosamine monomers linked by a glycosidic (1— >4) bond. By way of example of chitosan that may be used, mention may be made, for example, of the product sold under the reference KiOsmetine CsG® by the company KytoZyme.
[0251] According to another particular embodiment, the polydimethylsiloxanes comprising primary amine groups at the end of the chain and / or on side chains are chosen from the compounds of formula (V) below:
[0252] R’a-Si(Rb)(Rc)-O-[Si(Rb)(Rc)-O]m-[Si(ALK1-NH2)(Ra)-O]n-Si(Rb)(Rc)-R’a(V)
[0253] in which formula (V):
[0254] - R’a, which may be identical or different, represent a hydroxyl or (Ci-Ci4)alkyl group, - Ra, Rb and Re, which may be identical or different, preferably identical, represent a (Ci-C4)alkyl group, such as methyl,
[0255] - ALK1represents a linear or branched (Ci-Ce)alkylene group, optionally interrupted with an N(H) group,
[0256] - m and n are integers greater than or equal to 1 ; preferably, m and n are such that the weightaverage molecular mass of the compound of formula (V) ranges from 1 000 g.mol'1to 500000 g.mol'1.
[0257] According to a preferred variant, formula (V) is such that Ra, Rb and Re represent a methyl group, ALK1represents a propylene group, the values of n and m are such that the weightaverage molecular weight of the polydimethylsiloxane ranges from 1 000 g.mol'1to 55 000 g.mol'1.
[0258] As examples of polydimethylsiloxanes of formula (V), mention may be made of the products sold under the names AMS-132, AMS-152, AMS-162, AMS-163, AMS-191 and AMS-1203 by the company Gelest, and the products of the Silsoft AX range from MomentivePerformance Materials. Mention may also be made of the amodimethicones sold under the names Dowsil AP-8568 Amino Fluid by Dow and Belsil ADM 1370 by Wacker.
[0259] According to another variant, formula (V) is such that R’arepresents a hydroxyl or (Ci-C4)alkyl group, such as methyl, or cetearyl, ALK1represents a (C5-Ce)alkylene group substituted with an NH group; preferably, ALK1represents -(CH2)3-N(H)-(CH2)2-, and m and n are such that the weight-average molecular mass of the compound of formula (V) ranges from 5 000 g.rnol'1to 500000 g.rnol'1.
[0260] As amine polymer, mention may also be made of a,co-diamino polytetrahydrofurans (or polytetramethylene glycol) and a,co-diamino polybutadienes.
[0261] The (poly)amine compounds chosen from hyperbranched polymers comprising at least one amino group and dendrimers bearing at least one amino group, such as PAMAM polyamidoamine dendrimers with an ethylenediamine core and a terminal amine function, may also be used.
[0262] According to an advantageous embodiment of the invention, the composition comprises a crosslinking agent R chosen from (poly)amine compounds, in particular chosen from amino alkoxy silanes, in particular 3 -aminopropyltri ethoxy silane (APTES), 3-aminoethyltri ethoxy silane (AETES), 3 -aminopropylmethyldi ethoxy silane, N-(2-aminoethyl)-3 -aminopropyltri ethoxy silane; from the polyamine compounds NFE-alk-NFE, in which alk denotes a divalent C2-C20 hydrocarbon-based chain, optionally substituted with a hydroxyl group (-OH) and / or with a carboxylic group (-C(=O)OH) and / or optionally interrupted with one or more heteroatoms chosen from -O-, -N(R”)- with R” denoting a hydrogen atom or a C1-C4 alkyl radical, such as spermidine; from a,co-diaminooxaalkanes such as 4,7,10-trioxa-l,13-tridecanediamine; from polyether triamines, such as polyetheramine (or Jeffamine); from chitosans; from polydialkylsiloxanes, in particular polydimethylsiloxanes comprising primary amine groups at the end of the chain or on side chains such as for example the compounds with the following INCI names: Amodimethicone, Bis-Cetearyl Amodimethicone; and mixtures thereof.
[0263] According to a preferred embodiment, the (poly)amine compound(s) are chosen from: chitosans; a,co-diaminooxaalkanes such as 4,7,10-trioxa-l,13-tridecanediamine; amino alkoxysilanes, in particular APTES; and polydialkylsiloxanes comprising primary amine groups at the end of the chain or on side chains, such as for example the compounds with the following INCI names: Amodimethicone, Bis-Cetearyl Amodimethicone.According to an advantageous embodiment of the invention, the composition comprises a crosslinking agent chosen from hydrophilic (poly)amine compounds chosen from amino alkoxy silanes, in particular 3 -aminopropyltri ethoxy silane (APTES), 3-aminoethyltri ethoxy silane (AETES), 3 -aminopropylmethyldi ethoxy silane, N-(2-aminoethyl)-3 -aminopropyltri ethoxy silane; from polyamine compounds NEE-alk-NEE in which alk denotes a divalent C2-C20 hydrocarbon-based chain, optionally substituted with a hydroxyl group (-OH) and / or with a carboxylic group (-C(=O)OH) and / or optionally interrupted with one or more heteroatoms chosen from -N(R”)- with R” denoting a hydrogen atom or a C1-C4 alkyl radical; from chitosans; from compounds of formula (III): ALK[(O-ALK’)m-NH2]2 (III); from polyethers triamines, in particular of formula ALK”’[(O-ALK’)m-NH2]3; from polybutadienes a, co-diamine; from hyperbranched polymers comprising at least one amino group and dendrimers bearing at least one amino group, such as PAMAM polyamidoamine dendrimers with an ethylenediamine core and a terminal amine function; and mixture thereof;
[0264] According to an advantageous embodiment of the invention, the hydrophilic (poly)amine compounds are chosen from l,3-diamino-2-propan-l-ol, 1,6-diaminohexane, 1,7-di aminoheptane, 1,8-diaminooctane, 1,9-diaminononane, 3-(2-aminoethyl)aminopropyl amine, bis(3-aminopropyl)amine, methylbi s(3-aminopropyl)amine, N-(3 -aminopropyl)- 1,4-di aminobutane, N,N-dimethyldipropylenetriamine, l,2-bis(3-aminopropylamino)ethane, N,N’-bis(3-aminopropyl)-l,3-propanediamine, ethylenediamine, 1,3-propylenediamine, 1,4-butylenediamine, lysine, ornithine, tris(2-aminoethyl)amine, l,3-bis(aminomethyl) cyclohexane, l,4-bis(aminomethyl)cyclohexane, diaminopropanol, chitosans, aminoalkoxylanes, in particular APTES, and mixture thereof, preferentially chosen from 3-aminopropyltriethoxysilane (APTES), chitosans and mixture thereof.
[0265] viii) Mineral or organic acid
[0266] As stated above, a composition (B) according to the invention may optionally comprise at least one organic or mineral acid.
[0267] Preferably, said acid is present if composition (B) contains, as crosslinking agent, at least one (poly)amine compound chosen from amino alkoxysilanes.
[0268] Among mineral acids, hydrochloric, sulfuric and phosphoric acids may be mentioned.Mention may also be made of alkyl or aryl sulfonic or sulfinic acids, such as methylsulfonic, ethyl sulfonic, benzenesulfonic, toluenesulfonic, methoxy sulfinic, ethoxy sulfinic, tolueneoxysulfinic, phenoxysulfinic acids, or triflic acid (CF3SO3H).
[0269] Among organic acids, monocarboxylic or polycarboxylic acids may be mentioned.
[0270] Among monocarboxylic acids, mention may be made of those of formula (I): R-C(O)-OH, in which R represents a (hetero)aryl group such as phenyl, a (hetero)aryl(Ci-C4)alkyl group such as benzyl, or a (Ci-C3o)alkyl group or an unsaturated C2-C30 radical (i.e. including at least one ethylenic unsaturation, preferably one ethylenic unsaturation), said alkyl group or unsaturated C2-C30 radical being optionally interrupted and / or optionally substituted preferably with one or more hydroxyl groups and not substituted with one or more amino radicals; R preferably denoting a (Ci-C4)alkylaryl or (Ci-Cs)alkyl group optionally interrupted and / or optionally substituted with 1, 2 or 3 hydroxyl groups; more preferentially, R represents a (Ci-Cs)alkyl, preferably (Ci-Ce)alkyl, group optionally substituted with a hydroxyl group. In particular, the organic monocarboxylic acids (I) are chosen from acetic acid and from a-hydroxylated carboxylic acids chosen from glycolic acid, lactic acid, mandelic acid and mixtures thereof.
[0271] Among polycarboxylic acids, mention may be made of those of formula (II): HOOC-A-(COOH)t, in which formula A represents a saturated or unsaturated, cyclic or non-cyclic, aromatic or non-aromatic polyvalent hydrocarbon-based group comprising from 1 to 30 carbon atoms, optionally interrupted with one or more heteroatoms such as oxygen and / or optionally substituted notably with one or more hydroxyl groups, and t represents an integer between 1 and 5 inclusive; preferably, A represents a divalent (Ci-Ce)alkylene group optionally substituted notably with one or more hydroxyl groups and not substituted with at least one amino radical, and t is equal to 1, 2 or 3.
[0272] Among the polycarboxylic acids of formula (II), mention may preferably be made of succinic acid, fumaric acid, and a-hydroxylated polycarboxylic acids such as tartaric acid, citric acid, and mixtures thereof.
[0273] Preferably, the acid is chosen from a-hydroxylated monocarboxylic or polycarboxylic acids chosen from glycolic acid, lactic acid, malic acid, tartaric acid, citric acid and / or mandelic acid and mixtures thereof, preferentially from glycolic acid, lactic acid, citric acid and mixtures thereof.The acids used according to the invention may be in the final composition in the form of a free acid and / or in the form of one of its associated salts (salts with an organic base or an alkali metal salt in particular), preferably in the form of a free acid.
[0274] In accordance with a particular embodiment of the invention, the composition comprises at least one acid, preferably an a-hydroxylated monocarboxylic or polycarboxylic acid, when the crosslinking agent is chosen from amino alkoxysilanes, such as in particular APTES, and from chitosan.
[0275] More particularly, the content of acid, more particularly of a-hydroxylated monocarboxylic or poly carboxylic acid, is such that the pH of composition (B) is equal to the pKa+ / -3 of the amine function of the crosslinking agent or of at least one of them.
[0276] When present in composition (B), the content of the acid(s) ranges from 0.1% to 10% by weight, in particular from 1% to 8% by weight, preferably from 2% to 6% by weight, relative to the total weight of composition (B).
[0277] ix) Water
[0278] As stated above, a composition (B) according to the invention may optionally comprise water.
[0279] According to a variant of the invention, composition (A) may also comprise water.
[0280] Preferably, the water used in the process of the invention is deionized water, sterilized water, or osmosed water.
[0281] Advantageously, if the composition comprises water, composition (B) comprises water in a content ranging from 40% to 99% by weight, preferably from 50% to 95% by weight, and more preferentially from 60% to 90% by weight, relative to the total weight of composition (B).
[0282] Moreover, if composition (A) comprises water, the water content ranges from 2% to 95% by weight, preferably from 5% to 80% by weight, relative to the total weight of composition (A).
[0283] Additional oils
[0284] Compositions (A) and (B) may optionally comprise at least one additional oil chosen from polar or apolar non-volatile hydrocarbon-based oils or non-volatile silicone oils, and mixtures thereof. These additional oils are different from compounds i).The term “non-volatile oi means an oil having a vapour pressure at 20°C which is nonzero and is less than 2.66 Pa and more particularly less than or equal to 0.13 Pa. Depending on the vapour pressure (OECD standard 104), the vapour pressure may be measured for example according to the static method or according to the effusion method by isothermal thermogravimetry.
[0285] * Non-volatile silicone oils
[0286] Suitable non-volatile silicone oils that may notably be mentioned are non-volatile silicones having the following INCI names: dimethicone, dimethiconol, trimethyl pentaphenyl trisiloxane, tetramethyl tetraphenyl trisiloxane, diphenyl dimethicone, trimethyl siloxyphenyl dimethicone, phenyl trimethicone, diphenylsiloxyphenyl trimethicone; and mixtures thereof.
[0287] * Non-volatile hydrocarbon-based oils
[0288] Suitable apolar non-volatile hydrocarbon-based oils that may notably be mentioned are linear or branched compounds of plant, mineral or synthetic origin: i) paraffin oil, ii) squalane, preferably of plant origin, isoeicosane, iii) mixtures of saturated linear hydrocarbons, more particularly C15-C28 hydrocarbons, such as the mixtures having the INCI names (Cis-Ci9)alkane, (Ci8-C2i)alkane, (C2i-C28)alkane, iv) hydrogenated or nonhydrogenated polybutenes, v) hydrogenated or non-hydrogenated, preferably hydrogenated, polyisobutenes, vi) hydrogenated or non-hydrogenated polydecenes, vii) decene / butene copolymers, butene / isobutene copolymers, and viii) mixtures thereof.
[0289] Suitable polar non-volatile hydrocarbon-based oils that may be mentioned are, for example, those chosen from:
[0290] a) saturated, unsaturated, linear or branched C10-C26 fatty alcohols, preferably monoalcohols; advantageously, the C10-C26 alcohols are fatty alcohols, which are preferably branched when they comprise at least 16 carbon atoms; preferably, the fatty alcohol comprises from 10 to 24 carbon atoms, and more preferentially from 12 to 22 carbon atoms, notably such as lauryl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, 2-butyloctanol, 2-undecylpentadecanol, 2-hexyldecyl alcohol, isocetyl alcohol, octyl dodecanol and mixtures thereof;
[0291] b) triglycerides consisting of fatty acid esters of glycerol, in particular the fatty acids of which may have chain lengths ranging from C4 to C36, and notably from Cis to C36, these oils possibly being linear or branched, and saturated or unsaturated; by way of example, mention may notably be made of heptanoic or octanoic triglycerides, caprylic / capric acidtriglycerides; plant oils such as wheatgerm oil, sunflower oil, grapeseed oil, sesame seed oil, com oil, apricot kernel oil, castor oil, shea oil, avocado oil, olive oil, soybean oil, sweet almond oil, palm oil, rapeseed oil, cottonseed oil, hazelnut oil, macadamia oil, jojoba oil, alfalfa oil, poppy oil, pumpkin oil, marrow oil, blackcurrant oil, evening primrose oil, millet oil, barley oil, quinoa oil, rye oil, safflower oil, candlenut oil, passionflower oil, musk rose oil, groundnut oil, coconut oil, argan oil, kaya oil; the liquid fraction of shea butter, and the liquid fraction of cocoa butter; and mixtures thereof;
[0292] c) linear aliphatic hydrocarbon-based esters of formula R-C(O)-OR’ in which R-C(O)-O-represents the carboxylic acid residue containing from 2 to 40 carbon atoms, and R’ represents a hydrocarbon-based chain containing from 1 to 40 carbon atoms, aliphatic hydrocarbon-based esters of alkylene glycol, in particular ethylene glycol or propylene glycol; the total number of carbon atoms being advantageously at least 10; notably chosen from isoamyl laurate, cetostearyl octanoate, isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, isopropyl stearate or isostearate, ethyl palmitate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, isostearyl isostearate, octyl stearate, isostearyl heptanoate, octanoates, decanoates or ricinoleates of alcohols or of polyalcohols, such as propylene glycol dioctanoate, cetyl octanoate or tridecyl octanoate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, alkyl benzoate, polyethylene glycol diheptanoate, propylene glycol bis(2-ethylhexanoate) and mixtures thereof, hexyl laurate, neopentanoic acid esters, such as isodecyl neopentanoate, isotridecyl neopentanoate, isostearyl neopentanoate or 2 -octyl dodecyl neopentanoate, isononanoic acid esters, such as isononyl isononanoate, isotridecyl isononanoate or octyl isononanoate, oleyl erucate, isopropyl lauroyl sarcosinate, diisopropyl sebacate, isocetyl stearate, isodecyl neopentanoate, isostearyl behenate or myristyl myristate;
[0293] d) hydroxylated esters such as polyglyceryl-2 triisostearate;
[0294] e) aromatic esters, such as tridecyl trimellitate, C12-C15 alkyl benzoates, the 2-phenylethyl ester of benzoic acid, or butyloctyl salicylate;
[0295] f) esters of linear fatty acids having a total carbon number ranging from 35 to 70, such as pentaerythrityl tetrapelargonate;
[0296] g) esters of C24-C28 branched fatty acids or fatty alcohols such as triisoarachidyl citrate, pentaerythrityl tetraisononanoate, glyceryl triisostearate, glyceryl tris(2-decyltetradecanoate), pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate, polyglyceryl-2 tetraisostearate or pentaerythrityl tetrakis(2-decyltetradecanoate);h) the polyesters obtained by condensation of dimer and / or trimer of unsaturated fatty acid and of diol, such as those with the INCI name Dilinoleic Acid / Butanediol Copolymer or Dilinoleic Acid / Propanediol Copolymer; the polyesters obtained by condensation of fatty acid dimer and of diol dimer, such as dimer dilinoleyl dimer dilinoleate;
[0297] i) ethers of formula R1-O-R2 in which Ri and R2, which may be identical or different, denote a linear, branched or cyclic C6-C24 alkyl group, preferably a Ce-Cis alkyl group, and preferably a Cs-Cn alkyl group, such as dicaprylyl ether, dilauryl ether, diisostearyl ether, dioctyl ether, nonyl phenyl ether, dodecyl dimethylbutyl ether, cetyl dimethylbutyl ether, cetyl isobutyl ether and mixtures thereof, preferably dicaprylyl ether;
[0298] j) the carbonates of formula R8-O-C(O)-O-R9, with Rs and R9, which may be identical or different, representing a linear or branched C4 to C12 and preferentially Ce to C10 alkyl chain; the carbonate oils may be dicaprylyl carbonate (or dioctyl carbonate), bis(2-ethylhexyl) carbonate, dipropylheptyl carbonate, dibutyl carbonate, dineopentyl carbonate, dipentyl carbonate, dineoheptyl carbonate, diheptyl carbonate, diisononyl carbonate or dinonyl carbonate and preferably dioctyl carbonate;
[0299] k) vinylpyrrolidone copolymers such as vinylpyrrolidone / 1 -hexadecene copolymer; and l) mixtures thereof.
[0300] More preferentially, the additional oil(s) are chosen from hydrogenated or non-hydrogenated polyisobutenes, preferably hydrogenated, for instance the non-volatile compounds of the Parleam® range; mixtures of C15-C19 alkanes, and from linear aliphatic hydrocarbon-based esters of formula R-C(O)-OR’ in which R-C(0)-0 represents a carboxylic acid residue containing from 2 to 40 carbon atoms, and R’ represents a hydrocarbon-based chain containing from 1 to 40 carbon atoms, as defined above, notably isononyl isononanoate. In the event that one and / or the other of compositions (A) and (B) comprises at least one additional non-volatile oil, the content of such oil(s) represents from 0% to 40% by weight, in particular from 0% to 20% by weight, more particularly from 1% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition in question.
[0301] COMPOSITIONS
[0302] As stated above, composition (A) and composition (B) according to the invention are separate.According to one embodiment, compositions (A) and (B) are packaged separately. The expression “packaged separately” means that compositions (A) and (B) are packaged inside two compartments formed by two separate containers.
[0303] According to a particular embodiment, composition (B) comprises an aqueous phase, and in particular comprises water.
[0304] According to an advantageous variant, composition (B) is aqueous or aqueous-alcoholic, preferably aqueous.
[0305] According to another particular embodiment of the invention, composition (B) is an anhydrous composition. In particular, composition (B) is anhydrous and comprises at least one oil, in particular a volatile oil, preferably a hydrocarbon-based oil, such as, for example, isododecane.
[0306] Composition (B) may also comprise at least one C2-C4 monoalcohol, one or more organic solvents, or combinations thereof.
[0307] The term “organic solvent” means an organic substance that is capable of dissolving another substance without chemically modifying it.
[0308] As organic solvent, mention may be made of, for example, a) polyols that are water-miscible at room temperature (20°C), notably chosen from polyols notably containing from 2 to 10 carbon atoms, preferably containing from 2 to 6 carbon atoms, such as glycerol, propylene glycol, 1,3 -propanediol, butylene glycol, pentylene glycol, hexylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, diethylene glycol or diglycerol; (b) polyol ethers such as 2-butoxyethanol, propylene glycol monomethyl ether, diethylene glycol monoethyl ether and diethylene glycol monomethyl ether, and c) aromatic alcohols such as benzyl alcohol or phenoxyethanol, and mixtures thereof.
[0309] Composition (B) may be in an anhydrous form, or in the form of a water-in-oil emulsion or an oil-in-water emulsion.
[0310] KIT AND APPLICATION
[0311] According to yet another of its aspects, the present invention also relates to a multicompartment kit or device, notably a cosmetic kit or device, for making up keratin materials, in particular the skin, eyelashes and / or eyebrows, comprising at least two compositions (A) and (B) packaged separately with:
[0312] at least one first compartment containing at least composition (A) comprising: i) atleast one copolymer bearing acetoacetate function(s) CP, comprising repeat units derived from at least one monomer of formula (I) below:
[0313]
[0314] in which:
[0315] - Rarepresents a hydrogen atom or a linear or branched (Ci-C4)alkyl group;
[0316] - Rband Rc, which may be identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or a linear or branched (Ci-C4)alkyl group;
[0317] - Rdrepresents a linear or branched (Ci-C4)alkyl group; and
[0318] - L represents a linear or branched (Ci-Ce)alkylene, or cycloalkylene, group, and from at least one monomer, preferably from at least two monomers chosen from C1-C4 alkyl acrylates, C1-C4 alkyl methacrylates and mixtures thereof; ii) at least one polyol; iii) at least one alkyl acetate comprising from 2 to 4 carbon atoms; iv) at least one volatile oil, preferably hydrocarbon-based oil; and v) at least one monoalcohol comprising from 2 to 4 carbon atoms;
[0319] at least one second compartment, separate from said first compartment, and containing at least composition (B) comprising: vii) a crosslinking agent chosen from (poly)amine compounds, preferably from hydrophilic (poly)amine compounds; viii) optionally an organic or mineral acid; and ix) optionally water;
[0320] with at least one of the compartments comprising vi) at least one particulate dyestuff.
[0321] According to an advantageous embodiment, the multi-compartment kit or device comprises at least two compositions (A) and (B) packaged separately with:
[0322] at least one first compartment containing at least composition (A) comprising: i) at least one copolymer bearing acetoacetate function(s) CP, comprising repeat units derived from at least one monomer of formula (I) below:
[0323]
[0324] in which:
[0325] - Rarepresents a hydrogen atom or a linear or branched (Ci-C4)alkyl group;
[0326] - Rband Rc, which may be identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or a linear or branched (Ci-C4)alkyl group;
[0327] - Rdrepresents a linear or branched (Ci-C4)alkyl group; and
[0328] - L represents a linear or branched (Ci-Ce)alkylene, or cycloalkylene, group, and from at least one monomer, preferably from at least two monomers chosen from C1-C4 alkyl acrylates, C1-C4 alkyl methacrylates and mixtures thereof; ii) at least one polyol; iii) at least one alkyl acetate comprising from 2 to 4 carbon atoms; iv) at least one volatile oil, preferably hydrocarbon-based oil; and v) at least one monoalcohol comprising from 2 to 4 carbon atoms;
[0329] at least one second compartment, separate from said first compartment, and containing at least composition (B) comprising: vii) a crosslinking agent chosen from hydrophilic (poly)amine compounds chosen from amino alkoxysilanes; from polyamine compounds comprising from 2 to 20 carbon atoms, being linear or branched, cyclic or acyclic, conjugated or non-conjugated, aromatic or non-aromatic, optionally substituted with at least a hydroxyl group (-OH) and / or with a carboxylic group (-C(=O)OH) and / or optionally interrupted with one or more heteroatoms chosen from -S-, -S-S-, -N(R”)-, preferably with -N(R”)-, with R” denoting a hydrogen atom or a C1-C4 alkyl radical, preferably a hydrogen atom; from chitosans; from compounds of formula (III): ALK[(O-ALK’)m-NH2]2 (III); from polyethers triamines, in particular of formula (IV): ALK”’[(O-ALK’)m-NH2]3; from polybutadienes a, co-diamine; from hyperbranched polymers comprising at least one amino group and dendrimers bearing at least one amino group, such as PAMAM polyamidoamine dendrimers with an ethylenediamine core and a terminal amine function; and mixture thereof; viii) an organic or mineral acid; and ix) water;
[0330] with at least one of the compartments comprising vi) at least one particulate dyestuff.Any type of applicator may be used for depositing the first and / or second composition. The respective applicators for the first and second compositions may be identical or different.
[0331] According to a variant of the invention, the first and second compositions may be applied by means of two distinct applicator portions of the same applicator.
[0332] According to another variant, the makeup kit according to the present invention comprises one or more means for applying the first and second compositions.
[0333] The first and second cosmetic compositions included in the makeup kit of the invention may be applied in particular to the eyelashes and / or the eyebrows, using a sponge, a flocked applicator, a coarse brush, a fine brush, a comb, a threaded wand or a pen equipped with a notched wheel. They may also be applied with the fingers.
[0334] In the present case, the first composition may be applied using any applicator provided that it allows a localized deposit on a portion of the length of the keratin fibre and, when it is an eyelash, over at most 2 / 3 of its length.
[0335] The threaded wand may be made of plastic or metal or any other suitable material.
[0336] The pen equipped with a notched wheel is more particularly described in patent application US 5851019 or FR 2588733.
[0337] This pen allows precise amounts of product to be applied at the outlet of the pen after actuation of a notched wheel or a push-button which advances a piston with each rotation / press.
[0338] In practice, the keratin materials may be made up via two processes. The first route involves multiple actions by the user, namely at least two steps, the first consisting of the application of the basecoat composition and the second consisting of the application of the topcoat composition completely or partially on the first basecoat composition and on the keratin materials.
[0339] According to a particularly advantageous embodiment, this packaging article is provided with two separate applicators.
[0340] The second route consists in premixing the two compositions, just before applying the resulting composition to the keratin materials.
[0341] Whatever the route chosen by the user, the packaging kit comprises two separate compartments or reservoirs for each of compositions (A) and (B), each reservoir or compartment being closed by a closing member, and optionally at least one suitableapplicator, preferably two applicators. Note that the packaging kit may also comprise means for combining the two compositions before application, such as a container and a stirrer. The applicator may optionally be rigidly connected to the container. Advantageously, the applicator is rigidly connected to a wand which, itself, is rigidly connected to the closing member.
[0342] The closing member may be coupled to the container by screwing. Alternatively, the coupling between the closing member and the container is achieved other than by screwing, notably via a bayonet mechanism, by click-fastening or by gripping. The term “clickfastening” in particular means any system involving moving past a bead or cord of material by elastic deformation of a portion, notably of the closing member, followed by return to the elastically unconstrained position of said portion after moving past the bead or cord.
[0343] The container, advantageously comprising the compartment(s) or reservoir(s), and the mixing container, may be at least partly made of thermoplastic material. Examples of thermoplastic materials that may be mentioned include polypropylene and polyethylene. Alternatively, the containers are made of non-thermoplastic material, notably of glass or metal (or alloy).
[0344] The containers are preferably equipped with a wiper positioned in the vicinity of at least one opening of the container. Such a wiper makes it possible to wipe the applicator and possibly the wand to which it may be rigidly connected. Such a wiper is described, for example, in patent FR 2792618.
[0345] Throughout the description, including the claims, the expressions “between ... and ...” and “ranging from ... to ...” should be understood as meaning limits included, unless otherwise specified.
[0346] The invention is illustrated in greater detail in the examples that follow. The amounts are indicated as weight percentages.
[0347] Examples
[0348] Compound 1: Preparation of isobutyl acrylate / tert-butyl acrylate / acetoacetoxy ethyl methacrylate copolymer (25 / 65 / 10)The following are placed in a 1 L pilot reactor: 62.5 g of isobutyl acrylate, 162.5 g of tertbutyl acrylate, 25 g of acetoacetoxyethyl methacrylate, 2.5 g of the free-radical initiator Trigonox T21S and 360 g of an isododecane / ethyl acetate solvent (50 / 50). The medium is degassed with argon and then heated to 90°C with stirring. The reaction medium is kept for 7 hours at 90°C, and stripping with 300 ml of isododecane is then performed to remove the residual monomers.
[0349] At the end of the reaction, an isobutyl acrylate / tert-butyl acrylate / acetoacetoxyethyl methacrylate copolymer is obtained in solution in isododecane.
[0350] Compound 2: Preparation of isobornyl acrylate / acetoacetoxyethyl methacrylate copolymer (90 / 10)
[0351] The following are placed in a 1 L pilot reactor: 135 g of isobornyl acrylate, 30 g of acetoacetoxy ethyl methacrylate, 100 g of an isododecane / ethyl acetate solvent (70 / 30), and 100 g of isododecane alone.
[0352] The medium is degassed with argon and then heated to 90°C with stirring (100 rpm).
[0353] Once the reaction medium reaches the temperature of 90°C, 338 g of a mixture composed of 200 g of isododecane, 135 g of isobornyl acrylate and 3 g of Trigonox 21 S initiator are poured in over one hour.
[0354] The reaction medium is kept for 7 hours at 90°C. The next day, the reaction medium is stripped with 2 x 200 mL of cold isododecane.
[0355] At the end of the reaction, an isobutyl acrylate / acetoacetoxyethyl methacrylate copolymer is obtained in solution in isododecane.
[0356] Preparation of compositions A, AZ, Bl, B2, B2’ B3, B4 and B4’
[0357] Compositions A, AZ, Bl, B2, B2’, B3, B4 and B4’ are prepared using the contents indicated in tables 1 and 2 below. The contents are expressed as weight percentages relative to the total weight of the composition under consideration.
[0358] [Table 1]
[0359]
[0360]
[0361] [Table 2]
[0362]
[0363] The compositions are prepared simply by mixing the ingredients listed in the tables above using a SpeedMixer® (Hauschild DAC 150.1 FVZ) (10 grams, 1 cycle, 2 minutes 30 seconds, 2500 rpm).
[0364] Formulations to be appliedEach of composition (A) according to the invention and comparative composition (AZ) were mixed with each of compositions (Bl), (B2), (B2’), (B3), (B4) and (B4’) in a mass ratio of 1:1, using a SpeedMixer® (Hauschild DAC 150.1 FVZ) (10 grams, 1 cycle, 2 minutes 30 seconds, 2500 rpm).
[0365] Application
[0366] Each formula ((A) + (Bl)), ((A) + (B2)), ((A) + (B2’), ((A) + (B3)), ((A) + (B4)), ((A) + (B4’), ((AZ) + (Bl)), ((AZ) + (B2)), ((AZ) + (B3)), or ((AZ) + (B4)) was applied with a spatula to a Supplale® support (SOUDOTIQUE reference RLXSUPNOIR, format: 30000 x 1200 mm x 0.7 mm) with dimensions of 2 cm x 5 cm, in a proportion of 0.02 g / cm2This was followed by drying at room temperature for 24 hours.
[0367] Sebum resistance
[0368] Once dry, the SUPPLALE® supports treated according to the application protocol were immersed in artificial sebum for 15 minutes.
[0369] After immersion, the SUPPLALE® supports were rubbed against a towel (Chicopee® VERACLEAN™ Polish Plus 34x32cm) 10 times with a weight of 660 g, over a length of 34 cm.
[0370] In order to measure the colour persistence, a colour difference (delta E) was measured between the initial deposit and the deposit after immersion in the artificial sebum.
[0371] Persistence protocol
[0372] The persistence of the colour of the deposits was evaluated in the CIE L*a*b* system, using a Konica 700d® spectrophotometer from Minolta (illuminant D65, angle 10°, specular component included).
[0373] In this L*a*b* system, L* represents the intensity of the colour, a* indicates the green / red colour axis and b* the blue / yellow colour axis.
[0374] The persistence of the colour of the deposits was evaluated by the colour difference AE between the coloured Supplale® supports before attack, then after undergoing attack, in other words immersion in water, biphase water or artificial sebum, according to the protocol described above. The lower the AE value, the more persistent the colour with respect to the attacks.The AE value is calculated according to the following equation:
[0375] [Math 1]
[0376]
[0377] In this equation, L*a*b* represent the values measured after colouring the SUPPLALE® supports and subjecting them to attack, and Lo*ao*bo* represent the values measured after colouring the SUPPLALE® supports but before attack.
[0378] Results
[0379] Evaluation of the presence of an acetoacetate-functional copolymer according to the invention
[0380] The results of the evaluations are summarized in table 3 below:
[0381] [Table 3]
[0382]
[0383] It appears that the application of formulae ((A) + (Bl)), ((A) + (B2)), ((A) + (B3)) and ((A) + (B4)) according to the invention makes it possible in particular to obtain significantly improved resistance to sebum compared to the application of the respective comparative formulae ((AZ) + (Bl)), ((AZ) + (B2)), ((AZ) + (B3)) and ((AZ) + (B4)).Evaluation of the presence of a mineral or organic acid
[0384] The results of the evaluations are summarized in table 4 below:
[0385] [Table 4]
[0386]
[0387] It appears that the application of formulae ((A) + (B2)), ((A) + (B4)), comprising an organic or mineral acid as previously defined makes it possible to obtain significantly improved resistance to water compared to the application of the respective formulae ((A) + (B2’)) and ((A) + (B4’)), devoid of such an organic or mineral acid.
Claims
Claims1. Process for making up keratin materials, notably the skin and / or eyelashes and / or eyebrows, comprising at least the application to said keratin materials of at least two separate compositions (A) and (B):said composition (A) comprising at least:i) at least one copolymer bearing acetoacetate function(s) CP, comprising repeat units derived from at least one monomer of formula (I) below:in which:- Rarepresents a hydrogen atom or a linear or branched (Ci-C4)alkyl group;- Rband Rc, which may be identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or a linear or branched (Ci-C4)alkyl group;- Rdrepresents a linear or branched (Ci-C4)alkyl group; and- L represents a linear or branched (Ci-Ce)alkylene, or cycloalkylene, group, and from at least one monomer, preferably from at least two monomers chosen from C1-C4 alkyl acrylates, C1-C4 alkyl methacrylates and mixtures thereof;ii) at least one polyol;iii) at least one alkyl acetate comprising from 2 to 4 carbon atoms;iv) at least one volatile oil, preferably hydrocarbon-based and / or silicone oil; and v) at least one monoalcohol comprising from 2 to 4 carbon atoms;said composition (B) comprising at least:vii) a crosslinking agent chosen from (poly)amine compounds, preferably chosen from hydrophilic (poly)amine compounds;viii) optionally an organic or mineral acid; andix) optionally water;- said composition (A) and / or said composition (B) comprising vi) at least one particulate dyestuff.
2. Process according to the preceding claim, wherein the copolymer(s) are obtained by polymerization of:- 1% to 30% by weight, in particular 5% to 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the monomers, of at least one monomer (1) of formula (I) such as:in which formula (I):- Rarepresents a hydrogen atom or a linear or branched (Ci-C4)alkyl group; preferably, Rarepresents a hydrogen atom or a methyl group, more preferentially a methyl group;- Rband Rc, which may be identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or a linear or branched (Ci-C4)alkyl group; preferably, Rband Rcrepresent a hydrogen atom;- Rdrepresents a linear or branched (Ci-C4)alkyl group; preferably, Rdrepresents a methyl group; and- L represents a linear or branched (Ci-Ce)alkylene, or cycloalkylene, group; preferably, L represents a (Ci-C4)alkylene group, in particular ethylene; and- 70% to 99% by weight, in particular 80% to 95% by weight, relative to the total weight of the monomers, of at least one monomer (2), preferably at least two monomers (2) chosen from C1-C4 alkyl acrylates, C1-C4 alkyl methacrylates and mixtures thereof, it being understood that said copolymers CP are obtained by polymerization of at least one monomer (1) with at least one monomer (2) and preferably at least two monomers (2).
3. Process according to Claim 1 or 2, wherein the copolymer(s) CP comprise a first monomer (2) chosen from C1-C4 alkyl acrylates, C1-C4 alkyl methacrylates, and mixtures thereof, preferably C1-C4 alkyl acrylates, even more preferentially isobutyl acrylate, and present in a content of from 5% to 40% by weight, in particular from 15% to 30% by weight, relative to the total weight of the monomers, a second monomer (2) different from the first monomer (2), chosen from C1-C4 alkyl acrylates, C1-C4 alkyl methacrylates, and mixtures thereof, preferably C1-C4 alkyl acrylates, even more preferentially tert-butyl acrylate, and present in a content of from 30% to 80% by weight, in particular from 50% to 75% by weight, preferably from 60% to 70% by weight relative to the total weight of the monomers, and atleast one monomer (1) as defined in Claim 2, in particular chosen from acetoacetoxy ethyl acrylate, acetoacetoxyethyl methacrylate, and mixtures thereof, and preferably, the monomer (1) is acetoacetoxyethyl methacrylate in a content of from 5% to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the monomers.
4. Process according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the copolymer(s) CP is at least the copolymer formed of isobutyl acrylate, tert-butyl acrylate and acetoacetoxy ethyl methacrylate, preferably in a ratio of 25 / 65 / 10.
5. Process according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the copolymer(s) CP are present in a total content ranging from 1% to 45% by weight of active material, more preferentially from 5% to 35% by weight of active material, and more preferentially still ranging from 15% to 30% by weight of active material, relative to the total weight of composition (A).
6. Process according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the polyol(s) ii) is(are) chosen from glycerol, caprylyl glycol, hexylene glycol, propylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, butylene glycol, 1,3 -propanediol and mixtures thereof, and preferably from glycerol, caprylyl glycol, hexylene glycol, and mixtures thereof.
7. Process according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the volatile oil(s) iv) is(are) chosen from volatile hydrocarbon-based oils, preferably from Cs-Ci6 alkanes, in particular branched alkanes, alone or as mixtures, and preferably isododecane.
8. Process according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the particulate dyestuffs are chosen from pigments; preferably, the pigment(s) of the invention are chosen from carbon black, iron oxides, notably yellow, red and black iron oxides, and micas coated with iron oxide, blue and violet pigments, such as Blue 1 Lake, azo pigments, notably red azo pigments, such as D&C Red 7, alkali metal salts of lithol red, such as the calcium salt of lithol red B, even more preferentially black iron oxides, red iron oxides, yellow iron oxides and azo pigments, notably red azo pigments, such as D&C Red 7.
9. Process according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the crosslinking agent(s) vii) is(are) chosen from hydrophilic (poly)amine compounds chosen from amino alkoxy silanes, in particular 3 -aminopropyltri ethoxy silane (APTES), 3-aminoethyltri ethoxy silane (AETES), 3 -aminopropylmethyldi ethoxy silane, N-(2-aminoethyl)-3 -aminopropyltri ethoxy silane; from polyamine compounds NEE-alk-NEE in which alk denotes a divalent C2-C20 hydrocarbon-based chain, optionally substituted with ahydroxyl group (-OH) and / or with a carboxylic group (-C(=O)OH) and / or optionally interrupted with one or more heteroatoms chosen from -N(R”)- with R” denoting a hydrogen atom or a C1-C4 alkyl radical; from chitosans; from compounds of formula (III): ALK[(O-ALK’)m-NH2]2 (III); from polyethers triamines, in particular of formula ALK”’[(O-ALK’)m-NH2]3; from polybutadienes a, co-diamine; from hyperbranched polymers comprising at least one amino group and dendrimers bearing at least one amino group, such as PAMAM polyamidoamine dendrimers with an ethylenediamine core and a terminal amine function; and mixture thereof, more preferably chosen from l,3-diamino-2-propan-l-ol, 1,6-di aminohexane, 1,7-di aminoheptane, 1,8-diaminooctane, 1,9-diaminononane, 3-(2-aminoethyl)aminopropyl amine, bis(3-aminopropyl)amine, methylbi s(3-aminopropyl)amine, N-(3 -aminopropyl)- 1,4-diaminobutane, N,N-dimethyldipropylenetriamine, l,2-bis(3-aminopropylamino)ethane, N,N’-bis(3-aminopropyl)-l,3-propanediamine, ethylenediamine, 1,3 -propylenediamine, 1,4-butylenediamine, lysine, ornithine, tris(2-aminoethyl)amine, 1,3 -bi s(aminom ethyl) cyclohexane, l,4-bis(aminomethyl)cyclohexane, diaminopropanol, chitosans, aminoalkoxylanes, in particular APTES, and mixture thereof, preferentially chosen from 3-aminopropyltriethoxysilane (APTES), chitosans and mixture thereof.
10. Process according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein said composition (B) further comprises at least one organic or mineral acid, preferably chosen from a-hydroxylated monocarboxylic or polycarboxylic acids, in particular chosen from glycolic acid, lactic acid, malic acid, tartaric acid, citric acid and / or mandelic acid and mixtures thereof, preferably from glycolic acid, lactic acid, citric acid and mixtures thereof.
11. Process according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein said composition (B) comprises at least one organic or mineral acid when said composition (B) contains, as crosslinking agent, at least one (poly)amine compound chosen from amino alkoxysilanes.
12. Process according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein said composition (B) further comprises water in an amount ranging from 40 to 99 % by weight, preferably from 50 to 95 % by weight, more preferably from 60 to 90 % by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition (B).
13. Process according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein said composition (B) comprises at least one volatile oil, in particular chosen from:hydrocarbon-based oils containing from 8 to 16 carbon atoms, in particular branchedCs-Cie alkanes, in particular isoalkanes, more particularly isoalkanes (also known as isoparaffins), preferably C13-C16 isoparaffins, isododecane, isodecane, isohexadecane, for example the oils sold under the trade names Isopar or Permethyl, alone or as mixtures, preferably isododecane (also known as 2,2,4,4,6-pentamethylheptane); linear alkanes, in particular C11-C16 alkanes, alone or as mixtures, in particular hexane, decane, undecane, tridecane, n-dodecane (C12) and n-tetradecane (C14), mixtures of n-undecane (Cn) and n-tridecane (C13), and mixtures thereof; C5-C12 cyclic, non-aromatic alkanes; and mixtures thereof;short-chain esters containing from 5 to 8 carbon atoms;carbonate hydrocarbon-based oils of structure R’I-0-C(0)-0-R’2 in which R’i and R’2 independently denote a linear, branched or cyclic C4-C8 alkyl group, preferably a C4-C8 alkyl group, more preferentially chosen from dibutyl carbonate or dipentyl carbonate; and ether oils of formula R1-O-R2 in which Ri and R2, independently of each other, denote a linear, branched or cyclic C4-C8 alkyl group, preferably a C4-C8 alkyl group, more preferentially composition (B) contains at least one volatile hydrocarbon-based oil chosen from Cs-Cie alkanes, in particular branched alkanes, preferably isododecane.
14. Process according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it comprises two successive steps of applying, to said keratin materials, composition (A) and then composition (B), or composition (B) and then composition (A).
15. Process according to any one of Claims 1 to 13, characterized in that it comprises a step of applying to said keratin materials a composition obtained by extemporaneous mixing, at the time of application, of said composition (A) and said composition (B).
16. Multi-compartment kit or device, notably a cosmetic kit or device, for making up keratin materials, in particular the skin, eyelashes and / or eyebrows, comprising at least two compositions (A) and (B) packaged separately with:at least one first compartment containing at least composition (A) comprising: i) at least one copolymer bearing acetoacetate function(s) CP, comprising repeat units derived from at least one monomer of formula (I) below:in which:- Rarepresents a hydrogen atom or a linear or branched (Ci-C4)alkyl group;- Rband Rc, which may be identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or a linear or branched (Ci-C4)alkyl group;- Rdrepresents a linear or branched (Ci-C4)alkyl group; and- L represents a linear or branched (Ci-Ce)alkylene, or cycloalkylene, group, and from at least one monomer, preferably from at least two monomers chosen from C1-C4 alkyl acrylates, C1-C4 alkyl methacrylates and mixtures thereof, in particular as defined in Claims 2 to 4; ii) at least one polyol, in particular as defined in Claim 6; iii) at least one alkyl acetate comprising from 2 to 4 carbon atoms; iv) at least one volatile oil, preferably hydrocarbonbased oil, in particular as defined in Claim 7; v) at least one monoalcohol comprising from 2 to 4 carbon atoms;at least one second compartment, separate from said first compartment, and containing at least composition (B) comprising: vii) a crosslinking agent chosen from (poly)amine compounds, in particular as defined in Claim 9; viii) optionally an organic or mineral acid, in particular as defined in Claims 10 and 11; and ix) optionally water, in particular as defined in claim 12;with at least one of the compartments comprising vi) at least one particulate dyestuff, in particular as defined in Claim 8.