Process for making up keratin materials, comprising the application of at least one acetoacetate-functional acrylic copolymer and a hydrophobic crosslinking agent

Abstract

The present invention relates to a process for making up keratin materials, comprising the application to said keratin materials of at least one composition (A) comprising at least one acetoacetate-functional copolymer comprising repeating units derived from at least one monomer of formula (I) and from at least one monomer chosen from C1-C4 alkyl acrylates, C1-C4 alkyl methacrylates; at least one polyol; at least one alkyl acetate comprising from 2 to 4 carbon atoms; at least one volatile oil; at least one C2 to C4 monoalcohol; and an anhydrous composition (B) comprising at least one hydrophobic crosslinking agent, with the composition (A) and / or the composition (B) comprising at least one particulate colourant.

Description

[0001] Description

[0002] Title: Process for making up keratin materials, comprising the application of at least one acetoacetate-functional acrylic copolymer and a hydrophobic crosslinking agent

[0003] Technical field

[0004] The present invention relates more particularly to the cosmetic field of keratin materials, and especially to that of making up the skin and / or eyelashes and / or eyebrows.

[0005] It thus aims to provide a process for making up keratin materials, comprising at least the application to said keratin materials of at least two distinct compositions (A) and (B).

[0006] Another subject of the invention is a kit for making up keratin materials, comprising at least two separately packaged compositions (A) and (B).

[0007] Prior art

[0008] Cosmetic products conventionally require the use of one or more film-forming polymers in order to obtain a quality deposit of these products on keratin materials, and in particular to satisfy the expectations detailed below.

[0009] Thus, in the field of skin makeup, it is especially expected that the deposit formed will not transfer on contact with the fingers or clothing.

[0010] It must also exhibit good stability on contact with water, especially rain or when showering or else perspiration, and also on contact with fats, such as sebum, for example. Moreover, this deposit must be comfortable and even glossy.

[0011] For this purpose, dispersions of polymer particles of nanometric size are used as a filmforming agent in makeup products such as mascaras, eyeliners and eyeshadows, and more particularly in their organic and, especially, oily phases.

[0012] Thus, FR 2 741 530, for example, proposes for this purpose, for the temporary dyeing of keratin fibres, the use of a dispersion of film-forming polymer particles including at least one acidic function and at least one pigment dispersed in the continuous phase of said dispersion. The colourings obtained via this dyeing method are not always satisfactory in terms of persistence, notably with respect to shampoo washing. Specifically, in general, these polymers do not afford deposits on keratin materials that satisfy all the abovementioned requirements, namely very good resistance to sebum and to water, in particular to hairshampoos, which make it possible to adjust the gloss or invisibility qualities and which, in the case of haircare use, provide a very satisfactory styling hold.

[0013] EP 3 250 177 Al describes the use of acetoacetyl compounds in the field of keratin fibres. The keratin materials treated with said acetoacetyl compounds do not always give satisfactory results, especially in terms of persistence.

[0014] These documents do not make it possible to obtain deposits that are non-sticky, transfer little, are comfortable, and are long-lasting.

[0015] Disclosure of the invention

[0016] There is thus still a need for cosmetic compositions intended for application to the skin and / or eyelashes and / or eyebrows which make it possible to obtain a deposit that is non-sticky, which transfers little, if at all, and which is glossy, comfortable and long-lasting. There is also still a need for compositions which are resistant to various mechanical and chemical challenges, for example makeup-removing compositions such as biphasic waters, or to sebum, and more particularly to sebum.

[0017] There also remains a need for compositions that afford qualities of gloss and of colour persistence.

[0018] The present invention is specifically directed to meeting some or all of these needs.

[0019] Summary of the invention

[0020] These problems are solved by the implementation of a process for making up keratin materials, especially the skin and / or eyelashes and / or eyebrows, comprising at least the application to said keratin materials of at least two distinct compositions (A) and (B):

[0021] said composition (A) comprising at least:

[0022] i) at least one acetoacetate-functional copolymer, called CP, comprising repeating units derived from at least one monomer of formula (I) below:

[0023] [Chem 1]

[0024]

[0025] in which:

[0026] - Rarepresents a hydrogen atom or a linear or branched (Ci-C4)alkyl group;

[0027] - Rband Rc, which are identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or a linear or branched (Ci-C4)alkyl group;

[0028] - Rdrepresents a linear or branched (Ci-C4)alkyl group; and

[0029] - L represents a linear or branched (Ci-Ce)alkylene group or a cycloalkylene group, and at least one monomer, preferably at least two monomers chosen from C1-C4 alkyl acrylates, C1-C4 alkyl methacrylates and mixtures thereof;

[0030] ii) at least one polyol;

[0031] iii) at least one alkyl acetate comprising from 2 to 4 carbon atoms;

[0032] iv) at least one volatile oil, preferably a hydrocarbon and / or silicone oil;

[0033] v) at least one monoalcohol comprising from 2 to 4 carbon atoms; and

[0034] said composition (B), which is anhydrous and comprises at least:

[0035] vii) a crosslinking agent chosen from hydrophobic (poly)amine compounds;

[0036] said composition (A) and / or said composition (B) comprising vi) at least one particulate colourant.

[0037] The inventors have thus found, surprisingly, that the application to the keratin materials of the ingredients i) to vii) makes it possible to improve the stability of the coloured deposit on the keratin materials treated with this combination.

[0038] Detailed description

[0039] DEFINITIONS

[0040] For the purposes of the present invention, throughout the description, including the claims, and unless otherwise indicated:

[0041] The term “cosmetic” refers to a composition that is compatible with the skin, mucous membranes and epidermal derivatives. The composition according to the invention is non-therapeutic.

[0042] The term “keratin materials” in particular means the skin, mucous membranes, keratin fibres, eyelashes and epidermal derivatives.

[0043] The term “the skin” means all the skin of the body, and preferably the skin of the face, the scalp, the neckline, the neck, the arms and forearms, the eyelids, around the mouth or behind the ears, the hollow of the elbow, the back of the knees, the hands, the wrists and the ankles,or even more preferably the skin of the face (in particular the forehead, the nose, the cheeks and the chin), the neckline and the neck.

[0044] A composition according to the invention comprises a physiologically acceptable medium, i.e. one which has a pleasant colour, odour and feel and which does not give rise to any unacceptable discomfort, i.e. tingling, tautness or redness, that is liable to discourage the user from applying this composition.

[0045] The term “fatty substance" is understood, for the purposes of the present invention, to mean an organic compound insoluble in water at ordinary temperature (20°C) and at atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg) (solubility of less than 5%, preferably less than 1% and even more preferentially less than 0.1%); in addition, the fatty substances are soluble in organic solvents under the same temperature and pressure conditions, for instance in halogenated solvents such as chloroform or dichloromethane, lower alcohols such as ethanol or aromatic solvents such as benzene or toluene.

[0046] The term “oil” refers to a fatty substance that is liquid at room temperature (20°C) and atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg).

[0047] The term “hydrocarbon oil” means an oil formed essentially from, or even consisting of, carbon and hydrogen atoms, and possibly oxygen and nitrogen atoms, and not containing any silicon or fluorine atoms. It may contain alcohol, ester, ether, carboxylic acid, amine and / or amide groups.

[0048] An “aryl” radical represents a fused or non-fused, monocyclic or polycyclic hydrocarbon group comprising from 6 to 14 carbon atoms, and at least one ring of which is aromatic; preferentially, the aryl radical is a phenyl, biphenyl, naphthyl, indenyl, anthracenyl or tetrahydronaphthyl .

[0049] A "heteroaryl" radical denotes a fused or non-fused, 5- to 14-membered monocyclic or polycyclic group, comprising from 1 to 6 heteroatoms chosen from nitrogen, oxygen, sulfur and selenium atoms, and at least one ring of which is aromatic.

[0050] The term “ (hetero)aryF means aryl or heteroaryl groups.

[0051] A “cyclic” or “cycloalkyF radical means a monocyclic or polycyclic, fused or non-fused, non-aromatic cyclic hydrocarbon radical containing from 5 to 14 carbon atoms, which may include 1 or more unsaturations; the cycloalkyl is preferably a cyclohexyl group.

[0052] The term “anhydrous” means an amount of less than 3% by weight of water, preferentially less than 1% by weight of water, better still less than 0.5% by weight of water, even betterstill less than 0.1% by weight of water, relative to the total weight of the composition; even more preferentially, the composition is free of water.

[0053] Unless otherwise indicated, the endpoints delimiting the extent of a range of values are included in that range of values.

[0054] Unless otherwise indicated, the amounts indicated are expressed as percentages by mass.

[0055] PROCESS FOR MAKING UP KERATIN MATERIALS

[0056] The first subject of the invention is a process for making up keratin materials, notably the skin and / or eyelashes and / or eyebrows, comprising at least the application to said keratin materials of at least two distinct compositions (A) and (B):

[0057] - said composition (A) comprising at least:

[0058] i) at least one acetoacetate-functional copolymer CP comprising repeating units derived from at least one monomer of formula (I) below:

[0059] [Chem 2]

[0060]

[0061] in which:

[0062] - Rarepresents a hydrogen atom or a linear or branched (Ci-C4)alkyl group;

[0063] - Rband Rc, which are identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or a linear or branched (Ci-C4)alkyl group;

[0064] - Rdrepresents a linear or branched (Ci-C4)alkyl group; and

[0065] - L represents a linear or branched (Ci-Ce)alkylene group or a cycloalkylene group, and at least one monomer, preferably at least two monomers chosen from C1-C4 alkyl acrylates, C1-C4 alkyl methacrylates and mixtures thereof;

[0066] ii) at least one polyol;

[0067] iii) at least one alkyl acetate comprising from 2 to 4 carbon atoms;

[0068] iv) at least one volatile oil, preferably a hydrocarbon and / or silicone oil; and

[0069] v) at least one monoalcohol comprising from 2 to 4 carbon atoms;- said composition (B) being anhydrous and comprising at least:

[0070] vii) a crosslinking agent chosen from hydrophobic (poly)amine compounds;

[0071] - said composition (A) and / or said composition (B) comprising vi) at least one particulate colourant.

[0072] According to one particular embodiment of the invention, the process of the invention comprises the simultaneous application of ingredients i) and vii).

[0073] According to another particular embodiment of the invention, the process comprises at least two steps in which ingredients i) and vii) are applied in separate, successive steps to the keratin materials, independently of the order of application.

[0074] According to one particular embodiment, the ingredient(s) i) are applied to the keratin materials, then the ingredient(s) vii) are applied to the keratin materials.

[0075] According to another particular embodiment, the ingredient(s) vii) are applied to the keratin materials, then the ingredient(s) i) are applied to the keratin materials.

[0076] According to one particular embodiment, composition (A) and composition (B) are applied simultaneously or sequentially, independently of the order of application, to the keratin materials.

[0077] In a preferred variant of the invention, a composition obtained by extemporaneous mixing, at the time of application, of the composition (A) and the composition (B) as defined above is applied in one step.

[0078] In another variant, composition (A) and composition (B) are applied sequentially to the keratin materials, composition (A) possibly being applied to the keratin materials before composition (B), or vice versa. Thus, according to this variant, the process according to the invention comprises two successive steps of applying, to said keratin materials, composition (A) and then composition (B), or composition (B) and then composition (A).

[0079] According to one particular embodiment of the invention, the keratin material makeup process is a process for making up the skin, the eyelashes and / or the eyebrows.

[0080] The composition (A) may be anhydrous or aqueous such as aqueous-alcoholic and / or may comprise one or more fatty substances, notably one or more oils other than volatile hydrocarbon oils, as defined hereinbelow.

[0081] The composition (B) may contain a volatile hydrocarbon oil, identical or different to the hydrocarbon oil present in the composition (A).After application of compositions (A) and (B), a persistent, non-sticky coloured deposit is advantageously obtained. The deposit obtained is additionally resistant to sebum, but also to oils and to water, and to rubbing.

[0082] According to one particular embodiment, the compositions are applied to dry keratin materials.

[0083] According to one particular embodiment, the keratin materials are dried or left to dry after application of compositions (A) and (B), in particular after application of each different composition.

[0084] i) Acetoacetate-functional copolymer

[0085] As indicated above, the process according to the invention comprises at least the application, to the keratin materials, of a composition (A) comprising at least one acetoacetate-functional copolymer, more simply referred to as "copolymer" or "CP", comprising repeating units derived from at least one monomer of formula (I) below:

[0086] [Chem 3]

[0087]

[0088] in which:

[0089] - Rarepresents a hydrogen atom or a linear or branched (Ci-C4)alkyl group;

[0090] - Rband Rc, which are identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or a linear or branched (Ci-C4)alkyl group;

[0091] - Rdrepresents a linear or branched (Ci-C4)alkyl group; and

[0092] - L represents a linear or branched (Ci-Ce)alkylene group or a cycloalkylene group, and at least one monomer, preferably at least two monomers chosen from C1-C4 alkyl acrylates, C1-C4 alkyl methacrylates and mixtures thereof.

[0093] Preferably, in the formula (I):

[0094] - Rarepresents a hydrogen atom or a methyl group, more preferentially a methyl group; - Rband Rcrepresent a hydrogen atom;- Rdrepresents a methyl group; and

[0095] - L represents a (Ci-C4)alkylene group, and more preferentially L represents ethylene. According to a preferred embodiment, the monomer of formula (I) is chosen from acetoacetoxyethyl acrylate, acetoacetoxyethyl methacrylate, and mixtures thereof.

[0096] According to a preferred embodiment, the one or more copolymers are obtained by the polymerization of:

[0097] 1% to 30% by weight, in particular 5% to 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the monomers, of at least one monomer (1) of formula (I) as defined above; and 70% to 99% by weight, in particular 80% to 95% by weight, relative to the total weight of the monomers, of at least one monomer (2), preferably of at least two monomers (2) chosen from C1-C4 alkyl acrylates and C1-C4 alkyl methacrylates and mixtures thereof, it being understood that said copolymers CP are obtained by polymerization of at least one monomer (1) with at least one monomer (2) and preferably at least two monomers (2). Said copolymer CP may be a statistical, alternating (block) or gradient copolymer.

[0098] Preferably, the copolymer CP is a statistical copolymer.

[0099] For the purposes of the present invention, the term “statistical copolymer” means a copolymer formed of macromolecules in which the sequential distribution of the monomer units (1) and (2) obeys known statistical laws. In other words, in a statistical copolymer, the various monomers follow each other in any order. Statistical copolymers are also known as random copolymers. For example, the sequence of a statistical copolymer, formed from monomers A and B, may be as follows: A-A-B-A-B-B-B-B-A-A-B-A.

[0100] The copolymer CP according to the present invention is in particular devoid of monomer units other than the monomers (1) and (2) defined above and below.

[0101] Monomer (1)

[0102] According to the invention, the copolymer CP comprises from 1% to 30% by weight, more particularly from 1% to 20% by weight, especially from 5% to 20% by weight, and preferably from 5% to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the monomers, of at least one monomer (1) of formula (I):

[0103] [Chem 4]

[0104]

[0105] in which:

[0106] - Rarepresents a hydrogen atom or a linear or branched (Ci-C4)alkyl group, preferably Rarepresents a methyl group;

[0107] - Rband Rc, which are identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or a linear or branched (Ci-C4)alkyl group, preferably Rband Rcrepresent a hydrogen atom;

[0108] - Rdrepresents a linear or branched (Ci-C4)alkyl group, preferably Rdrepresents a methyl group; and

[0109] - L represents a linear or branched (Ci-Ce)alkylene group or a cycloalkylene group, preferably L represents a (Ci-C4)alkylene group, in particular ethylene.

[0110] In particular, the monomer (1) is chosen from acetoacetoxy ethyl acrylate, acetoacetoxy ethyl methacrylate, and mixtures thereof, and preferably, monomer (1) is acetoacetoxy ethyl methacrylate.

[0111] Acetoacetoxyethyl acrylate is a compound of empirical formula C9H12O5, and of structural formula:

[0112] [Chem 5]

[0113]

[0114] As acetoacetoxyethyl acrylate, mention may notably be made of the product sold under the name Butanoic acid, 3-oxo-2-[(l-oxo-2-propen-l-yl)oxy]ethyl ester by the company Alfa Chemistry.

[0115] Acetoacetoxyethyl methacrylate is a compound of empirical formula C10H 4O5, and of structural formula:

[0116] [Chem 6]

[0117]

[0118] As acetoacetoxy ethyl methacrylate, mention may notably be made of the product sold under the name EastmanTM AAEM by the company Eastman.

[0119] Monomer (2)

[0120] According to the invention, the copolymer comprises from 70% to 99% by weight, in particular from 80% to 95% by weight, preferably from 85% to 95% by weight of at least one monomer (2) chosen from C1-C4 alkyl acrylates, C1-C4 alkyl methacrylates, and mixtures thereof, relative to the total weight of the monomers.

[0121] Among the C1-C4 alkyl acrylates and the C1-C4 alkyl methacrylates that may be used as monomers (2), mention may be made in particular of methyl acrylate, ethyl acrylate, n-propyl acrylate, isopropyl acrylate, n-butyl acrylate, isobutyl acrylate, tert-butyl acrylate, methyl methacrylate, ethyl methacrylate, n-propyl methacrylate, isopropyl methacrylate, n-butyl methacrylate, isobutyl methacrylate, tert-butyl methacrylate and mixtures thereof. Preferably, the monomer (2) is a C1-C4 alkyl acrylate, in particular chosen from butyl acrylate, isobutyl acrylate and tert-butyl acrylate.

[0122] Butyl acrylate is a compound of empirical formula C7H13O2 and of structural formula: [Chem 7]

[0123]

[0124] As butyl acrylate, mention may notably be made of the product sold under the name Butyl acrylate by the company Sigma-Aldrich.

[0125] According to a preferred embodiment, monomer (2) is at least one monomer chosen from C1-C4 alkyl acrylates and / or C1-C4 alkyl methacrylates, preferably chosen from C1-C4 alkyl acrylates, and more preferentially monomer (2) is at least butyl acrylate.

[0126] Isobutyl acrylate is a compound of empirical formula C7H12O2 and of structural formula:

[0127] [Chem 8]

[0128]

[0129] As isobutyl acrylate, mention may notably be made of the product sold under the name Isobutyl acrylate by the company Sigma-Aldrich.

[0130] tert-Butyl acrylate is a compound of empirical formula C7H12O2 and of structural formula:

[0131] [Chem 9]

[0132]

[0133] As tert-butyl acrylate, mention may notably be made of the product sold under the name tert- Butyl acrylate by the company Sigma-Aldrich.

[0134] According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the one or more copolymers CP comprise a first monomer (2) chosen from C1-C4 alkyl acrylates, C1-C4 alkyl methacrylates and mixtures thereof, preferably C1-C4 alkyl acrylates, even more preferentially isobutyl acrylate, and present in a content of 5% to 40% by weight, in particular of 15% to 30% by weight, relative to the total weight of the monomers, a second monomer (2) different from the first monomer (2) mentioned above and chosen from C1-C4 alkyl acrylates, C1-C4 alkyl methacrylates and mixtures thereof, preferably C1-C4 alkyl acrylates, even more preferentially tert-butyl acrylate, and present in a content of 30% to 80% by weight, in particular of 50% to 75% by weight, preferably of 60% to 70% by weight relative to the total weight of the monomers, and at least one monomer (1) as defined above, in particular chosen from acetoacetoxyethyl acrylate, acetoacetoxyethyl methacrylate, and mixtures thereof, and preferably monomer (1) is acetoacetoxy ethyl methacrylate and is present in a content of 5% to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the monomers.

[0135] In particular, the copolymer CP comprises from 80% to 99% by weight of at least one monomer (2) chosen from C1-C4 alkyl acrylates and C1-C4 alkyl methacrylates relative to the total weight of the monomers.

[0136] Most particularly, the copolymer CP according to the present invention is preferably obtained by copolymerization of isobutyl acrylate, tert-butyl acrylate and acetoacetoxy ethylmethacrylate, more preferentially in an isobutyl acrylate / tert-butyl acrylate / acetoacetoxy ethyl methacrylate mass ratio of 25 / 65 / 10.

[0137] Preferably, the composition (A) according to the invention comprises the one or more copolymers CP in a total content ranging from 1% to 45% by weight of active material, more preferentially from 5% to 35% by weight of active material, and even more preferentially ranging from 15% to 30% by weight of active material, relative to the total weight of the composition (A).

[0138] According to a preferred embodiment, the composition (A) according to the invention comprises, as copolymers CP, at least the copolymer formed from isobutyl acrylate, tertbutyl acrylate and acetoacetoxy ethyl methacrylate, preferably in a ratio of 25 / 65 / 10.

[0139] When the composition (A) according to the invention comprises, as copolymers CP, at least the copolymer formed from isobutyl acrylate, tert-butyl acrylate and acetoacetoxyethyl methacrylate, preferably in a ratio of 25 / 65 / 10, the total content of copolymer(s) CP ranges from 5% to 40% by weight of active material, preferably from 10% to 35% by weight of active material, and more preferably still ranging from 20% to 30% by weight of active material, relative to the total weight of the composition (A).

[0140] ii) Polyol

[0141] As indicated above, a composition (A) according to the invention comprises at least one polyol.

[0142] Preferably, the one or more polyols possess:

[0143] - a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched hydrocarbon chain which comprises at least two hydroxyl functions; or

[0144] - a saturated, linear or branched hydrocarbon chain in which one or more carbon atoms are replaced with an oxygen atom and which comprises at least two hydroxyl functions, for instance polyethylene glycols (PEGs) having from 4 to 8 ethylene glycol units.

[0145] Preferably, the polyol(s) possess a saturated, linear or branched hydrocarbon chain.

[0146] Advantageously, the polyol(s) comprise a number of carbon atoms ranging from 2 to 20, and preferably from 2 to 10, and comprise from 2 to 12 and better still from 2 to 8 hydroxyl functions.

[0147] The polyol(s) may be chosen from glycols such as ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, propane- 1,3 -diol, isoprene glycol, butylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, polypropyleneglycol, caprylyl glycol, hexylene glycol, glycerol, diglycerol, erythritol, pentaerythritol, arabitol, adonitol, sorbitol, dulcitol, maltitol and panthenol.

[0148] Chosen among these polyols are preferably glycerol, caprylyl glycol, propylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, butylene glycol, hexylene glycol, propane- 1,3 -diol, and mixtures thereof, and even more preferentially glycerol, caprylyl glycol, hexylene glycol, and mixtures thereof.

[0149] In one particular embodiment, the polyol(s) may be present in the composition according to the invention in an amount ranging from 0.1% to 35% by weight, preferably from 0.5% to 30% by weight, more preferentially from 0.5% to 25% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition (A).

[0150] iii) C2-C4 alkyl acetate

[0151] As mentioned previously, a composition (A) according to the invention comprises at least one C2-C4 alkyl acetate.

[0152] Short-chain alkyl acetates are esters with an alkyl chain comprising from 2 to 4 carbon atoms. They are chosen in particular from ethyl acetate, methyl acetate, propyl acetate, butyl acetate and n-butyl acetate.

[0153] Advantageously, the composition (A) comprises the C2-C4 alkyl acetate(s) in a content ranging from 1% to 50% by weight, preferably from 5% to 40% by weight, more preferentially from 10% to 30% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition (A).

[0154] iv) Volatile oil

[0155] As indicated previously, a composition (A) according to the invention comprises at least one volatile oil. The one or more volatile oils are chosen from volatile hydrocarbon or silicone oils, and mixtures thereof. Preferably, the one or more volatile oils are chosen from volatile hydrocarbon oils.

[0156] The term “volatile oiV means an oil with a non-zero vapour pressure, at 20°C and atmospheric pressure, ranging in particular from 2.66 Pa to 40000 Pa, in particular ranging up to 13 000 Pa, and more particularly ranging up to 1300 Pa (standard OECD 104).

[0157] According to one variant of the invention, the composition (B) optionally comprises at least one volatile oil, identical or different from that / those of the composition (A).According to one embodiment of the invention, the volatile oil(s) iv) is (are) chosen from hydrocarbon oils, in particular chosen from:

[0158] hydrocarbon oils having from 8 to 16 carbon atoms, in particular branched Cs-Ci6 alkanes, in particular iso-alkanes, more particularly iso-alkanes (also called isoparaffins), preferably C13-C16 isoparaffins, isododecane, isodecane, isohexadecane, for example the oils sold under the trade names Isopars or Permetyls, alone or in mixtures, preferably isododecane (also called 2,2,4,4,6-pentamethylheptane); linear alkanes, in particular C11-C16 alkanes, alone or in mixtures, in particular hexane, decane, undecane, tridecane, n-dodecane (C12) and n-tetradecane (C14), mixtures of n-undecane (Cn) and n-tridecane (C13), and mixtures thereof; cyclic, non-aromatic C5-C12 alkanes; and mixtures thereof;

[0159] short-chain esters having from 5 to 8 carbon atoms;

[0160] carbonate hydrocarbon oils of structure R’I-O-C(O)-O-R’2 in which R’i and R’2 independently denote a linear, branched or cyclic C4-C8 alkyl group, preferably a C4-C8 alkyl group, more preferentially chosen from dibutyl carbonate or dipentyl carbonate;

[0161] ether oils of formula R1-O-R2, in which Ri and R2 independently of one another denote a linear, branched or cyclic C4-C8 alkyl group, preferably a C4-C8 alkyl group.

[0162] According to another embodiment of the invention, the volatile oil(s) iv) is (are) chosen from silicone oils, in particular chosen from:

[0163] silicone oils comprising in particular from 2 to 7 silicon atoms, these silicone oils optionally including alkyl or alkoxy groups having from 1 to 10 carbon atoms, such as dimethicones of viscosity 5 and 6 cSt, cyclopentadimethylsiloxane, dodecamethylpentasiloxane, cyclohexadimethylsiloxane, octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane, heptamethylhexyltrisiloxane, heptamethyloctyltrisiloxane, hexamethyldisiloxane, octamethyltrisiloxane, decamethyltetrasiloxane, dodecamethylpentasiloxane, and mixtures thereof.

[0164] Preferably, the composition (A) comprises at least one volatile hydrocarbon oil iv) chosen from Cs-Cie alkanes, in particular branched alkanes, alone or as a mixture, and preferably isododecane.

[0165] More preferentially, the composition (B) contains at least one volatile oil, preferably a hydrocarbon oil, chosen from Cs-Cie alkanes, in particular branched alkanes, alone or in mixtures, preferably isododecane.According to one particular embodiment, the composition (B) comprises at least one volatile oil different from the volatile oil present in the composition (A).

[0166] According to another particular embodiment, the composition (B) comprises at least one volatile oil identical to the volatile oil present in the composition (A).

[0167] Advantageously, the composition (A) comprises the one or more volatile oils, preferably hydrocarbon oil(s), in a content ranging from 1% to 70% by weight, preferably from 5% to 50% by weight, more preferentially from 10% to 30% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition (A).

[0168] In the case where the composition (B) comprises at least one volatile oil, preferably a hydrocarbon oil, the content thereof ranges from 0% to 80% by weight, more particularly from 30% to 60% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition (B).

[0169] v) C2-C4 monoalcohol

[0170] As mentioned previously, a composition (A) according to the invention comprises at least one C2-C4 monoalcohol.

[0171] According to one variant of the invention, the composition (B) may optionally comprise at least one C2-C4 monoalcohol identical to or different from that or those of the composition (A).

[0172] Preferably, the monoalcohol(s) of the invention is / are chosen from saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched monoalcohols comprising from 2 to 4 carbon atoms.

[0173] In particular, the monoalcohol(s) may be chosen from ethanol, isopropanol, n-propanol, tertbutanol, butanol, and mixtures thereof.

[0174] Advantageously, the composition (A) comprises the C2-C4 monoalcohol(s) in a content ranging from 1% to 60% by weight, preferably from 3% to 40% by weight, more preferentially from 5% to 25% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition (A). In the case where the composition (B) comprises at least one C2-C4 monoalcohol, the content thereof ranges from 1% to 60% by weight, preferably from 3% to 40% by weight, more preferentially from 5% to 25% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition (B).

[0175] vi) Particulate colourant

[0176] As indicated previously, at least one of composition (A) and composition (B) according to the invention comprises at least one particulate colourant.More particularly, composition (A) and / or composition (B) of the invention comprises at least one particulate colourant, and preferably in a proportion of at least 0.01% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition under consideration.

[0177] For obvious reasons, this amount is liable to vary significantly with regard to the desired intensity of the colour effect and to the colour intensity provided by the colourants under consideration, and its adjustment clearly falls within the competence of those skilled in the art.

[0178] Pigments

[0179] The term “pigments” means white or coloured, inorganic or organic particles which are insoluble in the composition and which are intended to colour and / or opacify the composition and / or the resulting deposit.

[0180] Inorganic pigments

[0181] According to a particular embodiment, the pigments used according to the invention are chosen from inorganic pigments.

[0182] The term “inorganic pigment” refers to any pigment that satisfies the definition in Ullmann’s Encyclopaedia in the chapter on inorganic pigments. Mention may be made, among the inorganic pigments of use in the present invention, of zirconium or cerium oxides, and also zinc, iron (black, yellow or red) or chromium oxides, manganese violet, ultramarine blue, chromium hydrate, ferric aluminium ferrocyanide, titanium dioxide, and metal powders, such as aluminium powder and copper powder. The following inorganic pigments can also be used: Ta20s, TisOs, Ti20s, TiO, ZrCh as a mixture with TiCh, ZrCh, Nb2Os, CeCh, ZnS. The pigment size that is of use in the context of the present invention is generally greater than 100 nm and may range up to 10 pm, preferably from 200 nm to 5 pm, and more preferably from 300 nm to 1 pm.

[0183] According to a particular form of the invention, the pigments have a size characterized by a D

[0050] of greater than 100 nm and possibly ranging up to 10 pm, preferably from 200 nm to 5 pm and more preferentially from 300 nm to 1 pm.

[0184] The sizes are measured by static light scattering using a commercial MasterSizer 3000® particle size analyzer from Malvern, which makes it possible to determine the particle size distribution of all of the particles over a wide range which may extend from 0.01 pm to 1000 pm. The data are processed on the basis of the standard Mie scattering theory. This theory is the most suitable for size distributions ranging from the submicronic to the multimicronic;it makes it possible to determine an “effective” particle diameter. This theory is notably described in the publication by Van de Hulst, H.C., Light Scattering by Small Particles, Chapters 9 and 10, Wiley, New York, 1957.

[0185] D

[0050] represents the maximum size presented by 50% by volume of the particles.

[0186] According to a particular form of the invention, the inorganic pigment comprises a lipophilic or hydrophobic coating, said coating preferably being present in the oily phase of the composition according to the invention.

[0187] According to one particular embodiment of the invention, the pigments may be coated with at least one compound chosen from metal soaps; N-acylamino acids or salts thereof; lecithin and derivatives thereof; isopropyl triisostearyl titanate; isostearyl sebacate; natural plant or animal waxes; polar synthetic waxes; fatty esters; phospholipids; and mixtures thereof. According to a particular embodiment, the pigments may be coated according to the invention with an N-acylamino acid or a salt thereof, which may comprise an acyl group having from 8 to 22 carbon atoms, for instance a 2-ethylhexanoyl, caproyl, lauroyl, myristoyl, palmitoyl, stearoyl or cocoyl group.

[0188] The amino acid may be, for example, lysine, glutamic acid or alanine. The salts of these compounds may be the aluminium, magnesium, calcium, zirconium, zinc, sodium or potassium salts. Thus, according to a particularly preferred embodiment, the pigments may be coated with an N-acylamino acid derivative which may in particular be a glutamic acid derivative and / or a salt thereof, and more particularly a stearoyl glutamate, as for example aluminium stearoyl glutamate. As examples of pigments treated with aluminium stearoyl glutamate, mention may be made of the black CI 77499, red CI 77491 and yellow CI 77492 iron oxide pigments sold under the trade name NAI® by Miyoshi Kasei.

[0189] According to a preferential embodiment, the pigments according to the invention can be coated with isopropyl triisostearyl titanate. Mention may be made, as examples of pigments treated with isopropyl titanium triisostearate (ITT), of titanium dioxide pigments and black, red and yellow iron oxide pigments sold under the trade names BWB0-I2® (Iron Oxide CI 77499 and Isopropyl Titanium Triisostearate), BWY0-I2® (Iron Oxide CI 77492 and Isopropyl Titanium Triisostearate) and BWR0-I2® (Iron Oxide CI 77491 and Isopropyl Titanium Triisostearate) by Kobo.

[0190] Among the inorganic pigments, mention may also be made of pearlescent agents.They may be chosen from white pearlescent pigments such as mica coated with titanium or with bismuth oxychloride, coloured pearlescent pigments such as titanium mica with iron oxides, titanium mica notably with ferric blue or chromium oxide, titanium mica with an organic pigment of the abovementioned type, and also pearlescent pigments based on bismuth oxychloride.

[0191] Organic pigments

[0192] The pigments that may be used according to the invention may also be organic pigments. An “organic pigment” is understood as meaning any pigment that meets the definition in Ullmann's Encyclopaedia in the chapter on organic pigments. The organic pigment can in particular be chosen from nitroso, nitro, azo, xanthene, quinoline, anthraquinone, phthalocyanine, metal-complex type, isoindolinone, isoindoline, quinacridone, perinone, perylene, diketopyrrol opyrr ole, thioindigo, dioxazine, triphenylmethane or quinophthalone compounds.

[0193] The organic pigment(s) may be chosen, for example, from carmine, carbon black, aniline black, melanin, azo yellow, quinacridone, phthalocyanine blue, sorghum red, the blue pigments codified in the Colour Index under the references CI 42090, 69800, 69825, 73000, 74100 and 74160, the yellow pigments codified in the Colour Index under the references CI 11680, 11710, 15985, 19140, 20040, 21100, 21108, 47000 and 47005, the green pigments codified in the Colour Index under the references CI 61565, 61570 and 74260, the orange pigments codified in the Colour Index under the references CI 11725, 15510, 45370 and 71105, the red pigments codified in the Colour Index under the references CI 12085, 12120, 12370, 12420, 12490, 14700, 15525, 15580, 15620, 15630, 15800, 15850, 15865, 15880, 17200, 26100, 45380, 45410, 58000, 73360, 73915 and 75470, and the pigments obtained by oxidative polymerization of indole or phenol derivatives as described in patent FR 2679 771.

[0194] These pigments may also be in the form of composite pigments as described in patent EPl 184426. These composite pigments may be composed in particular of particles including an inorganic core at least partially covered with an organic pigment and at least one binder for fixing the organic pigments to the core.

[0195] The pigment may also be a lake.

[0196] The term “lake” means insolubilized dyes adsorbed onto insoluble particles, the assembly thus obtained remaining insoluble during use.The inorganic substrates onto which the dyes are adsorbed are, for example, alumina, silica, calcium sodium borosilicate or calcium aluminium borosilicate, and aluminium.

[0197] Among the organic dyes, mention may be made of cochineal carmine. Mention may also be made of the products known under the following names: D&C Red 21 (CI 45380), D&C Orange 5 (CI 45370), D&C Red 27 (CI 45410), D&C Orange 10 (CI 45425), D&C Red 3 (CI 45430), D&C Red 4 (CI 15510), D&C Red 33 (CI 17200), D&C Yellow 5 (CI 19140), D&C Yellow 6 (CI 15985), D&C Green (CI 61570), D&C Yellow 10 (CI 77002), D&C Green 3 (CI 42053), D&C Blue 1 (CI 42090), D&C Black 2 (CI 77266).

[0198] As examples of lakes, mention may be made of the products known under the name D&C Yellow 5 (CI 19140), D&C Black 2 (CI 77266), D&C Blue 1 (CI 42090), and mixtures thereof.

[0199] The colourants, preferably the pigments, may be present in concentrations ranging from 0.01% to 50% by weight, preferably from 1% to 40% by weight and more particularly from 2% to 20% relative to the total weight of the composition containing them.

[0200] Preferably, the one or more particulate colourants are chosen from pigments, preferably the one or more pigments of the invention are chosen from carbon black, iron oxides, notably yellow, red and black iron oxides, and micas coated with iron oxide, blue and violet pigments such as Blue 1 Lake, azo pigments, notably red azo pigments such as D&C Red 7, alkali metal salts of lithol red, such as the calcium salt of lithol red B, even more preferentially black iron oxides, red iron oxides, yellow iron oxides and azo pigments, notably red azo pigments such as D&C Red 7.

[0201] Advantageously, the process for making up keratin materials is a process for making up the skin, eyelashes and / or eyebrows, in particular a makeup process employing mascara, eyeliner, eye shadow or foundation compositions.

[0202] vii) Crosslinking agent

[0203] As indicated previously, a composition (B) according to the invention comprises at least one hydrophobic crosslinking agent.

[0204] For the purposes of the invention, the term “crosslinking agent”, also termed “R”, denotes a compound that is capable of establishing, with at least one acetoacetate function of the copolymer(s) CP used in the treatment process according to the invention:at least one covalent bond,

[0205] at least one bond of donor-acceptor type (dative), and / or

[0206] at least one coordination bond,

[0207] and thus of crosslinking this or these compound(s).

[0208] Preferably, the term “crosslinking agent” refers to a compound that is capable of establishing at least one covalent bond with an acetoacetate function of the copolymer(s) CP used in the treatment process according to the invention and thus of crosslinking this or these copolymers.

[0209] For the purposes of the present invention, it is understood that the terms “crosslinking agent” and “crosslinker” are equivalent.

[0210] The crosslinking agent(s) is / are preferably present in a mass content ranging from 20% to 90% by weight of active material, in particular ranging from 25% to 80% by weight of active material, and more particularly from 30% to 70% by weight of active material, relative to the total weight of the composition (B) containing said agent(s).

[0211] More precisely, the crosslinking agent(s) suitable for the invention are chosen from hydrophobic compounds containing amine functions, referred to as hydrophobic (poly)amine compounds.

[0212] The term “hydrophobic” denotes more particularly a compound which is insoluble in water at more than 0.5% by weight, at 20°C and atmospheric pressure, at a pH ranging from 2 to 11 and as observed by eye or if necessary by optical or confocal microscope (evaluated according to the method described in the OECD Guidelines - OECD Method 105).

[0213] The term “poly(amine) compounds” is understood to denote compounds comprising respectively at least one primary and / or secondary, preferably primary (NH2), amine function.

[0214] More particularly, the crosslinking agent is chosen from polydialkylsiloxanes comprising at least one primary amine group, preferably at least two, at the chain end and / or on at least one side chain.

[0215] More particularly, the (poly)amine compound(s) is / are chosen from the compounds of formula (III):

[0216] H2N-ALK-Si(R’)2-[O-Si(R’)2]m-O-Si(R)2-ALK’-NH2 (III)

[0217] in which:

[0218] - ALK and ALK’, which are identical or different, represent a linear or branched, preferablylinear, (Ci-Ce)alkylene group, such as propylene,

[0219] - R’, which are identical or different, represent a (Ci-C4)alkyl group, such as methyl, - m represents an integer greater than or equal to 0; preferably, the value of m is such that the weight-average molecular weight of the compound (III) ranges from 500 g.mol'1to 55 000 g.mol'1.

[0220] As examples of compounds of formula (III), mention may be made of those sold under the names DMS-A11, DMS-A12, DMS-A15, DMS-A21, DMS-A31, DMS-A32 and DMS-A35 by the company Gelest.

[0221] According to another particular embodiment, the (poly)amine compound(s) is / are chosen from amino polydimethylsiloxanes, in particular comprising amine groups on side chains, chosen from the compounds of formula (IV) below:

[0222] R’a-Si(Rb)(Rc)-O-[Si(Rb)(Rc)-O]m-[Si(ALK1-NH2)(Ra)-O]n-Si(Rb)(Rc)-R’a(IV)

[0223] in which formula (IV):

[0224] - R’a, which are identical or different, represent a hydroxyl or (Ci-Ci4)alkyl group,

[0225] - Ra, Rb and Re, which are identical or different, preferably identical, represent a (Ci-C4)alkyl group such as methyl,

[0226] - ALK1represents a linear or branched (Ci-Ce)alkylene group, optionally interrupted with an N(H) group,

[0227] - m and n are integers greater than or equal to 1 ; preferably, m and n are such that the weightaverage molecular mass of the compound of formula (IV) ranges from 1000 g.mol'1to 500000 g.mol'1.

[0228] According to a preferred variant, formula (IV) is such that Ra, Rb and Re represent a methyl group, ALK1represents a propylene group, and the values of n and m are such that the weight-average molecular weight of the amino poly dimethylsiloxane ranges from 1000 g.mol'1to 55 000 g.mol'1.

[0229] As examples of amino polydimethylsiloxanes of formula (IV), mention may be made of those sold under the names AMS-132, AMS-152, AMS-162, AMS-163, AMS-191 and AMS-1203 by the company Gelest, and the products from the Silsoft AX range from Momentive Performance Materials. Mention may also be made of the amodimethicones sold under the names Dowsil AP-8568 Amino Fluid from Dow and Belsil ADM 1370 from Wacker.According to another variant, formula (IV) is such that R'arepresents a hydroxyl or (Ci-C4)alkyl group, such as methyl, or cetearyl, ALK1represents a (C5-Ce)alkylene group substituted with an NH group; preferably, ALK1represents -(CH2)3-N(H)-(CH2)2-, and m and n are such that the weight-average molecular mass of the compound of formula (IV) ranges from 5000 g.mol'1to 500000 g.mol'1.

[0230] According to an advantageous embodiment of the invention, the composition comprises a crosslinking agent R chosen from amino poly dialkyl siloxanes, especially polydimethylsiloxanes comprising at least one primary amine group at the chain end and / or on side chains, such as, for example, the following INCI name compounds: Amodimethicones, Bis-Cetearyl Amodimethicone; and mixtures thereof.

[0231] Additional oils

[0232] The compositions (A) and (B) may optionally comprise at least one additional oil chosen from non-volatile, polar or apolar hydrocarbon, or silicone, oils, and also mixtures thereof. These additional oils are different from the compounds i).

[0233] The term “non-volatile oil” means an oil whose vapour pressure at 20°C is non -zero and is less than 2.66 Pa and more particularly less than or equal to 0.13 Pa. Depending on the vapour pressure (OECD standard 104), the vapour pressure may be measured for example according to the static method or by the effusion method using isothermal thermogravimetry. * Non-volatile silicone oils

[0234] Suitable non-volatile silicone oils may include, in particular, the non-volatile silicones having the following INCI names: dimethicone, dimethiconol, trimethyl pentaphenyl trisiloxane, tetramethyl tetraphenyl trisiloxane, diphenyl dimethicone, trimethylsiloxyphenyl dimethicone, phenyl trimethicone, diphenylsiloxyphenyl trimethicone; and also mixtures thereof.

[0235] * Non-volatile hydrocarbon oils

[0236] Suitable apolar non-volatile hydrocarbon oils may include, in particular, the linear or branched compounds of vegetable, mineral or synthetic origin: i) paraffin oil, ii) squalane, preferably of vegetable origin, isoeicosane, iii) mixtures of saturated linear hydrocarbons, more particularly of C15-C28 hydrocarbons, such as the mixtures whose INCI names are (C15-Ci9)alkane, (Ci8-C2i)alkane, (C2i-C28)alkane, iv) polybutenes, hydrogenated or not; v) polyisobutenes, hydrogenated or not, preferably hydrogenated, vi) poly decenes,hydrogenated or not, vii) decene / butene copolymers, butene / isobutene copolymers and viii) mixtures thereof.

[0237] Suitable polar non-volatile hydrocarbon oils may include, for example, those chosen from: a) saturated, unsaturated, linear or branched C10-C26 fatty alcohols, preferably monoalcohols; advantageously, the C10-C26 alcohols are fatty alcohols, which are preferably branched when they comprise at least 16 carbon atoms; preferably, the fatty alcohol comprises from 10 to 24 carbon atoms, and more preferentially from 12 to 22 carbon atoms, notably such as lauryl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, 2-butyloctanol, 2-undecylpentadecanol, 2-hexyldecyl alcohol, isocetyl alcohol, octyl dodecanol and mixtures thereof;

[0238] b) triglycerides consisting of fatty acid esters of glycerol, in particular the fatty acids of which may have chain lengths ranging from C4 to C36, and notably from Cis to C36, these oils possibly being linear or branched, and saturated or unsaturated; by way of example, mention may notably be made of heptanoic or octanoic triglycerides, caprylic / capric acid triglycerides; plant oils such as wheatgerm oil, sunflower oil, grapeseed oil, sesame seed oil, com oil, apricot kernel oil, castor oil, shea oil, avocado oil, olive oil, soybean oil, sweet almond oil, palm oil, rapeseed oil, cottonseed oil, hazelnut oil, macadamia oil, jojoba oil, alfalfa oil, poppy oil, pumpkin oil, marrow oil, blackcurrant oil, evening primrose oil, millet oil, barley oil, quinoa oil, rye oil, safflower oil, candlenut oil, passionflower oil, musk rose oil, groundnut oil, coconut oil, argan oil, kaya oil; the liquid fraction of shea butter, and the liquid fraction of cocoa butter; and also mixtures thereof;

[0239] c) linear aliphatic hydrocarbon-based esters of formula R-C(O)-OR’ in which R-C(O)-O-represents the carboxylic acid residue containing from 2 to 40 carbon atoms, and R’ represents a hydrocarbon-based chain containing from 1 to 40 carbon atoms, aliphatic hydrocarbon-based esters of alkylene glycol, in particular ethylene glycol or propylene glycol; the total number of carbon atoms being advantageously at least 10; notably chosen from isoamyl laurate, cetostearyl octanoate, isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, isopropyl stearate or isostearate, ethyl palmitate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, isostearyl isostearate, octyl stearate, isostearyl heptanoate, octanoates, decanoates or ricinoleates of alcohols or of polyalcohols, such as propylene glycol dioctanoate, cetyl octanoate or tridecyl octanoate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, alkyl benzoate, polyethylene glycol diheptanoate, propylene glycol bis(2-ethylhexanoate) and mixtures thereof, hexyl laurate, neopentanoic acid esters, such as isodecyl neopentanoate, isotridecyl neopentanoate, isostearylneopentanoate or 2 -octyl dodecyl neopentanoate, isononanoic acid esters, such as isononyl isononanoate, isotridecyl isononanoate or octyl isononanoate, oleyl erucate, isopropyl lauroyl sarcosinate, diisopropyl sebacate, isocetyl stearate, isodecyl neopentanoate, isostearyl behenate and myristyl myristate;

[0240] d) hydroxylated esters, such as polyglyceryl-2 triisostearate;

[0241] e) aromatic esters, such as tridecyl trimellitate, C12-C15 alcohol benzoates, the 2-phenylethyl ester of benzoic acid, or butyl octyl salicylate;

[0242] f) linear fatty acid esters with a total carbon number ranging from 35 to 70, for instance pentaerythrityl tetrapelargonate;

[0243] g) esters of C24-C28 branched fatty acids or fatty alcohols, such as triisoarachidyl citrate, pentaerythrityl tetraisononanoate, glyceryl triisostearate, glyceryl tris(2-decyltetradecanoate), pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate, polyglyceryl-2 tetraisostearate or else pentaerythrityl tetrakis(2-decyltetradecanoate);

[0244] h) polyesters obtained by condensation of dimer and / or trimer of unsaturated fatty acid and of diol, such as those with the INCI name Dilinoleic Acid / Butanediol Copolymer or Dilinoleic Acid / Propanediol Copolymer; the polyesters obtained by condensation of fatty acid dimer and of diol dimer, such as dimer dilinoleyl dimer dilinoleate;

[0245] i) ethers of formula R1-O-R2 in which Ri and R2, which are identical or different, denote a linear, branched or cyclic C6-C24 alkyl group, preferably a Ce-Cis alkyl group, and preferably a C8-C12 alkyl group, such as dicaprylyl ether, dilauryl ether, diisostearyl ether, dioctyl ether, nonyl phenyl ether, dodecyl dimethylbutyl ether, cetyl dimethylbutyl ether, cetyl isobutyl ether and mixtures thereof, preferably dicaprylyl ether;

[0246] j) carbonates of formula R8-O-C(O)-O-R9, with Rs and R9, which are identical or different, representing a linear or branched C4 to C12 and preferentially Ce to C10 alkyl chain; the carbonate oils may be dicaprylyl carbonate (or dioctyl carbonate), bis(2-ethylhexyl) carbonate, dipropylheptyl carbonate, dibutyl carbonate, dineopentyl carbonate, dipentyl carbonate, dineoheptyl carbonate, diheptyl carbonate, diisononyl carbonate or dinonyl carbonate and preferably dioctyl carbonate;

[0247] k) vinylpyrrolidone copolymers such as vinylpyrrolidone / 1 -hexadecene copolymer; and l) mixtures thereof.

[0248] More preferentially, the additional oil(s) is (are) chosen from hydrogenated or nonhydrogenated, preferably hydrogenated, polyisobutenes, such as for example the non-volatile compounds of the Parleam® range; mixtures of C15-C19 alkanes, and from linear aliphatic hydrocarbon esters of formula R-C(O)-OR’ in which R-C(0)-0 represents a carboxylic acid residue comprising from 2 to 40 carbon atoms, and R’ represents a hydrocarbon chain containing from 1 to 40 carbon atoms, as defined previously, notably isononyl isononanoate.

[0249] In the event that one and / or the other of the compositions, (A) or (B), comprises at least one additional non-volatile oil, the content of such oil(s) represents from 0% to 40% by weight, in particular from 0% to 20% by weight, more particularly from 1% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition in question.

[0250] COMPOSITIONS

[0251] As indicated above, the composition (A) and the composition (B) according to the invention are distinct.

[0252] According to one embodiment, the compositions (A) and (B) are packaged separately. The term “packaged separately” is understood to mean that the compositions (A) and (B) are packaged inside two compartments formed by two distinct containers.

[0253] As indicated above, the composition (B) is an anhydrous composition.

[0254] In particular, the composition (B) comprises an amount of less than 3% by weight of water, preferentially less than 1% by weight of water, better still less than 0.5% by weight of water, even better still less than 0.1% by weight of water, relative to its total weight; even more preferably, the composition (B) is free of water.

[0255] Preferably, the composition (B) comprises at least one oil, in particular a volatile oil, preferably a hydrocarbon oil, such as, for example, isododecane.

[0256] The composition (B) may also comprise at least one C2-C4 monoalcohol, one or more organic solvents or combinations thereof.

[0257] The term “organic solvent” means an organic substance that is capable of dissolving another substance without chemically modifying it.

[0258] Possible organic solvents include, for example, a) polyols that are water-miscible at room temperature (20°C), in particular chosen from polyols having notably from 2 to 10 carbon atoms, preferably having from 2 to 6 carbon atoms, such as glycerol, propylene glycol, 1,3-propanediol, butylene glycol, pentylene glycol, hexylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, diethylene glycol or diglycerol; b) polyol ethers such as 2-butoxyethanol, propylene glycolmonomethyl ether, diethylene glycol monoethyl ether and diethylene glycol monomethyl ether, and also c) aromatic alcohols, such as benzyl alcohol or phenoxyethanol, and mixtures thereof.

[0259] KIT AND APPLICATION

[0260] According to yet another of its aspects, the present invention also relates to a multicompartment kit or device, notably a cosmetic kit or device, for making up keratin materials, in particular the skin, eyelashes and / or eyebrows, comprising at least two separately packaged compositions (A) and (B), with:

[0261] at least one first compartment containing at least the composition (A) comprising: i) at least one acetoacetate-functional copolymer CP comprising repeating units derived from at least one monomer of formula (I) below:

[0262] [Chem 10]

[0263]

[0264] in which:

[0265] - Rarepresents a hydrogen atom or a linear or branched (Ci-C4)alkyl group;

[0266] - Rband Rc, which are identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or a linear or branched (Ci-C4)alkyl group;

[0267] - Rdrepresents a linear or branched (Ci-C4)alkyl group; and

[0268] - L represents a linear or branched (Ci-Ce)alkylene group or a cycloalkylene group, and from at least one monomer, preferably at least two monomers, chosen from C1-C4 alkyl acrylates, C1-C4 alkyl methacrylates and mixtures thereof; ii) at least one polyol; iii) at least one alkyl acetate comprising from 2 to 4 carbon atoms; iv) at least one volatile oil, preferably a hydrocarbon oil; and v) at least one monoalcohol comprising from 2 to 4 carbon atoms; at least one second compartment distinct from said first compartment, and containing at least the composition (B), which is anhydrous and comprises: vii) a crosslinking agent chosen from hydrophobic (poly)amine compounds;

[0269] with at least one of the compartments comprising vi) at least one particulate colourant.Any type of applicator may be used for depositing the first and / or the second composition. The respective applicators of the first and the second composition may be identical or distinct.

[0270] According to a variant of the invention, the first and second compositions may be applied by means of two distinct applicator portions of the same applicator.

[0271] According to another variant, the makeup kit according to the present invention comprises one or more means for applying the first and second compositions.

[0272] The first and second cosmetic compositions included in the makeup kit of the invention may be applied in particular to the eyelashes and / or the eyebrows, using a sponge, a flocked applicator, a coarse brush, a fine brush, a comb, a threaded stem or a pen equipped with a notched wheel. They can also be applied with the fingers.

[0273] In the present case, the first composition may be applied using any applicator provided that it allows a deposit localized on a portion of the length of the keratin fibre and, when it is an eyelash, over at most 2 / 3 of its length.

[0274] The threaded stem may be made of plastic or metal or any other suitable material.

[0275] The pen equipped with a notched wheel is more particularly described in patent application US 5851019 or FR 2588733.

[0276] This pen allows precise metering of the product to be applied at the outlet of the pen after actuation of a notched wheel or of a push-button which advances a piston with each rotation / press.

[0277] In actual fact, the keratin materials can be made up according to two processes. The first route involves multiple actions by the user, namely at least two steps, the first consisting of the application of the "basecoat" composition and the second consisting of the application of the "topcoat" composition completely or partially on the first "basecoat" composition and on the keratin materials.

[0278] According to a particularly advantageous embodiment, this packaging article is provided with two distinct applicators.

[0279] The second route involves premixing the two compositions, just before applying the resulting composition on the keratin materials.

[0280] Whatever the route chosen by the user, the packaging kit comprises two separate compartments or reservoirs for each of the compositions (A) and (B), each reservoir or compartment being closed by a closing member, and optionally at least one suitableapplicator, preferably two applicators. It should be noted that the packaging kit may also comprise means for combining the two compositions before application, such as a container and a stirrer.

[0281] The applicator may optionally be rigidly connected to the container. Advantageously, the applicator is rigidly connected to a stem which, itself, is rigidly connected to the closing member.

[0282] The closing member can be coupled to the container by screwing. Alternatively, the coupling between the closing member and the container is done other than by screwing, in particular via a bayonet mechanism, by click-fastening or by gripping. The term “click-fastening” is understood in particular to mean any system involving the crossing of a bead or cord of material by elastic deformation of a portion, in particular of the closing member, followed by return to the elastically unconstrained position of said portion after the crossing of the bead or cord.

[0283] The container, advantageously comprising the compartment(s) or reservoir(s), and also the mixing container, may be at least partly made of thermoplastic material. Mention may be made, as examples of thermoplastic materials, of polypropylene or polyethylene.

[0284] Alternatively, the containers are made of non-thermoplastic material, notably of glass or metal (or alloy).

[0285] The containers are preferably equipped with a wiper positioned in the vicinity of at least one opening of the container. Such a wiper makes it possible to wipe the applicator and optionally the stem to which it may be rigidly connected. Such a wiper is described, for example, in patent FR 2792618.

[0286] Throughout the description, including the claims, the terms “between ... and ...”, and “ranging from ... to ...” should be understood as meaning with endpoints included, unless otherwise specified.

[0287] The invention is illustrated in greater detail in the examples that follow. The amounts are indicated as weight percentages.

[0288] ExampleCompound 1: Preparation of isobutyl acrylate / tert-butyl acrylate / acetoacetoxy ethyl methacrylate (25 / 65 / 10) copolymer

[0289] 62.5 g of isobutyl acrylate, 162.5 g of tert-butyl acrylate,

[0290] 25 g of acetoacetoxyethyl methacrylate, 2.5 g of the radical initiator Trigonox T21S and 360 g of an isododecane / ethyl acetate solvent (50 / 50) are introduced into a 1 L pilot reactor. The medium is degassed with argon and then heated to 90°C with stirring. The reaction medium is kept for 7 hours at 90°C, then stripping with 300 mL of isododecane is performed to remove the residual monomers.

[0291] At the end of the reaction, an isobutyl acrylate / tert-butyl acrylate / acetoacetoxyethyl methacrylate copolymer is obtained in solution in isododecane.

[0292] Compound 2: Preparation of isobornyl acrylate / acetoacetoxyethyl methacrylate (90 / 10) copolymer

[0293] 135 g of isobornyl acrylate, 30 g of acetoacetoxyethyl methacrylate, 100 g of an isododecane / ethyl acetate (70 / 30) solvent and 100 g of isododecane alone are introduced into a 1 L pilot reactor.

[0294] The medium is degassed with argon and then heated to 90°C with stirring (100 rpm).

[0295] Once the reaction medium reaches the temperature of 90°C, 338 g of a mixture composed of 200 g of isododecane, 135 g of isobornyl acrylate and 3 g of Trigonox 21 S initiator are poured in over one hour.

[0296] The reaction medium is kept for 7 hours at 90°C. The next day, the reaction medium is stripped with 2 x 200 mL of cold isododecane.

[0297] At the end of the reaction, an isobutyl acrylate / acetoacetoxyethyl methacrylate copolymer is obtained in solution in isododecane.

[0298] Preparation of compositions A, AZ and B

[0299] Compositions A, AZ and B are prepared on the basis of the contents indicated in Tables 1 and 2 below. The contents are expressed as weight percentages relative to the total weight of the composition under consideration.

[0300] [Table 1]

[0301]

[0302]

[0303] [Table 2]

[0304]

[0305] The compositions are prepared by simple mixing of the ingredients detailed in the tables above using a SpeedMixer® (Hauschild DAC 150.1 FVZ) (10 grams, 1 cycle, 2 minutes 30 seconds, 2500 rpm).

[0306] Formulations to be applied

[0307] Each of composition (A) according to the invention and comparative composition (AZ) were mixed with composition (B) in a 1 : 1 mass ratio using a SpeedMixer® (Hauschild DAC 150.1 FVZ) (10 grams, 1 cycle, 2 minutes 30 seconds, 2500 rpm).

[0308] Application

[0309] Each formula ((A) + (B) and (AZ) + (B)) was applied with a spatula to a Supplale® support (SOUDOTIQUE reference RLXSUPNOIR, format: 30 000 x 1200 mm x 0.7 mm) with dimensions of 2 cm x 5 cm, at a rate of 0.02 g / cm2

[0310] Drying takes place at room temperature for 24 hours.

[0311] Resistance to biphasic water

[0312] Once dry, the SUPPLALE® supports thus treated are immersed in biphasic water (La Roche Posay Respectissime waterproof eye makeup remover) for 3 minutes.At the end of immersion, the SUPPLALE® supports were rubbed against a towel (Chicopee® VERACLEAN™ Polish Plus 34><32cm) 10 times with a mass of 660 g, over a length of 34 cm.

[0313] In order to measure the stability of the colour, a colour difference (delta E) is measured between the initial deposit and the deposit after immersion in biphasic water.

[0314] Sebum resistance

[0315] Once dry, the SUPPLALE® supports treated according to the application protocol are immersed in artificial sebum for 15 minutes.

[0316] At the end of immersion, the SUPPLALE® supports were rubbed against a towel (Chicopee® VERACLEAN™ Polish Plus 34><32cm) 10 times with a mass of 660 g, over a length of 34 cm.

[0317] In order to measure the stability of the colour, a colour difference (delta E) is measured between the initial deposit and the deposit after immersion in artificial sebum.

[0318] Persistence protocol

[0319] The persistence of the colour of the deposits was evaluated in the CIE L*a*b* system, using a Konica CM 700d® Spectrophotometer from Minolta (illuminant D65, angle 10°, specular component included).

[0320] In this L*a*b* system, L* represents the intensity of the colour, a* indicates the green / red colour axis and b* the blue / yellow colour axis.

[0321] The persistence of the colour of the deposits is evaluated by the colour difference AE between the coloured Supplale® supports before challenge, then after undergoing challenge, that is to say immersion in biphasic water or in artificial sebum, according to the protocol described above. The lower the AE value, the more persistent the colour with respect to the challenges.

[0322] The AE value is calculated according to the following equation:

[0323] [Math 1]

[0324]

[0325] In this equation, L*a*b* represent the values measured after colouring the SUPPLALE® supports and after having undergone a challenge, and Lo*ao*bo* represent the values measured after colouring the SUPPLALE® supports but before challenge.

[0326] Results

[0327] The evaluation results are summarized in Table 3 below:

[0328] [Table 3]

[0329]

[0330] It is apparent that the application of formula ((A)+(B)) comprising an acetoacetate-functional copolymer according to the invention makes it possible to obtain a significantly improved sebum persistence relative to the application of comparative formula ((AZ)+(B)) comprising an acetoacetate-functional copolymer outside the invention.

Claims

Claims1. Process for making up keratin materials, especially the skin and / or eyelashes and / or eyebrows, comprising at least the application to said keratin materials of at least two distinct compositions (A) and (B):said composition (A) comprising at least:i) at least one acetoacetate-functional copolymer CP comprising repeating units derived from at least one monomer of formula (I) below:in which:- Rarepresents a hydrogen atom or a linear or branched (Ci-C4)alkyl group;- Rband Rc, which are identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or a linear or branched (Ci-C4)alkyl group;- Rdrepresents a linear or branched (Ci-C4)alkyl group; and- L represents a linear or branched (Ci-Ce)alkylene group or a cycloalkylene group, and at least one monomer, preferably at least two monomers chosen from C1-C4 alkyl acrylates, Ci-C4 alkyl methacrylates and mixtures thereof;ii) at least one polyol;iii) at least one alkyl acetate comprising from 2 to 4 carbon atoms;iv) at least one volatile oil, preferably a hydrocarbon and / or silicone oil; andv) at least one monoalcohol comprising from 2 to 4 carbon atoms;said composition (B) being anhydrous and comprising at least:vii) a crosslinking agent chosen from hydrophobic (poly)amine compounds;- said composition (A) and / or said composition (B) comprising vi) at least one particulate colourant.

2. Process according to the preceding claim, wherein the one or more copolymers are obtained by the polymerization of:- 1% to 30% by weight, in particular 5% to 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the monomers, of at least one monomer (1) of formula (I):in which formula (I):- Rarepresents a hydrogen atom or a linear or branched (Ci-C4)alkyl group, preferably Rarepresents a hydrogen atom or a methyl group, more preferentially a methyl group;- Rband Rc, which are identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or a linear or branched (Ci-C4)alkyl group, preferably Rband Rcrepresent a hydrogen atom;- Rdrepresents a linear or branched (Ci-C4)alkyl group, preferably Rdrepresents a methyl group; and- L represents a linear or branched (Ci-Ce)alkylene group or a cycloalkylene group, preferably L represents a (Ci-C4)alkylene group, in particular ethylene; and- 70% to 99% by weight, in particular 80% to 95% by weight, relative to the total weight of the monomers, of at least one monomer (2), preferably at least two monomers (2) chosen from C1-C4 alkyl acrylates and C1-C4 alkyl methacrylates and mixtures thereof, it being understood that said copolymers CP are obtained by polymerization of at least one monomer (1) with at least one monomer (2) and preferably at least two monomers (2).

3. Process according to Claim 1 or 2, wherein the one or more copolymers CP comprise a first monomer (2) chosen from C1-C4 alkyl acrylates, C1-C4 alkyl methacrylates and mixtures thereof, preferably C1-C4 alkyl acrylates, even more preferentially isobutyl acrylate, and present in a content of 5% to 40% by weight, in particular of 15% to 30% by weight, relative to the total weight of the monomers, a second monomer (2) different from the first monomer (2) and chosen from C1-C4 alkyl acrylates, C1-C4 alkyl methacrylates and mixtures thereof, preferably C1-C4 alkyl acrylates, even more preferentially tert-butyl acrylate, and present in a content of 30% to 80% by weight, in particular of 50% to 75% by weight, preferably of 60% to 70% by weight relative to the total weight of the monomers, and at least one monomer (1) as defined in Claim 2, in particular chosen from acetoacetoxyethyl acrylate, acetoacetoxyethyl methacrylate, and mixtures thereof, and preferably monomer (1) is acetoacetoxyethyl methacrylate, in a content of 5% to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the monomers.

4. Process according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the one or more copolymers CP are at least the copolymer formed from isobutyl acrylate, tert-butyl acrylate and acetoacetoxy ethyl methacrylate, preferably in a ratio of 25 / 65 / 10.

5. Process according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the one or more copolymers CP are present in a total content ranging from 1% to 45% by weight of active material, more preferentially from 5% to 35% by weight of active material, and even more preferentially ranging from 15% to 30% by weight of active material, relative to the total weight of the composition (A).

6. Process according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the one or more polyols ii) are chosen from glycerol, caprylyl glycol, hexylene glycol, propylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, butylene glycol, propane-1, 3-diol and mixtures thereof, and preferably from glycerol, caprylyl glycol, hexylene glycol and mixtures thereof.

7. Process according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the one or more volatile oils iv) are chosen from volatile hydrocarbon oils, preferably from Cs-Ci6 alkanes, in particular branched alkanes, alone or as a mixture, and preferably isododecane.

8. Process according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the particulate colourants are chosen from pigments, preferably the one or more pigments of the invention are chosen from carbon black, iron oxides, notably yellow, red and black iron oxides, and micas coated with iron oxide, blue and violet pigments such as Blue 1 Lake, azo pigments, notably red azo pigments such as D&C Red 7, alkali metal salts of lithol red, such as the calcium salt of lithol red B, even more preferentially black iron oxides, red iron oxides, yellow iron oxides and azo pigments, notably red azo pigments such as D&C Red 7.

9. Process according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the one or more crosslinking agents vii) are chosen from amino polydialkylsiloxanes, in particular polydimethylsiloxanes comprising at least one primary amine group at the chain end and / or on side chains, more particularly compounds with the following INCI names: Amodimethicones, Bis-Cetearyl Amodimethicone; and mixtures thereof.

10. Process according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein said composition (B) comprises at least one volatile oil, in particular chosen from:hydrocarbon oils having from 8 to 16 carbon atoms, in particular branched Cs-Ci6 alkanes, in particular iso-alkanes, more particularly iso-alkanes (also called isoparaffins), preferably C13-C16 isoparaffin, isododecane, isodecane, isohexadecane, for example oils soldunder the trade names Isopars or Permetyls, alone or in mixtures, preferably isododecane (also called 2,2,4,4,6-pentamethylheptane), linear alkanes, in particular Cn-Ci6 alkanes, alone or in mixtures, in particular hexane, decane, undecane, tridecane, n-dodecane (C12) and n-tetradecane (C14), mixtures of n-undecane (Cn) and n-tridecane (C13), and mixtures thereof; cyclic, non-aromatic C5-C12 alkanes; and mixtures thereof;short-chain esters having from 5 to 8 carbon atoms;carbonate hydrocarbon oils of structure R’I-O-C(O)-O-R’2 in which R’i and R’2 independently denote a linear, branched or cyclic C4-C8 alkyl group, preferably a C4-C8 alkyl group, more preferentially chosen from dibutyl carbonate or dipentyl carbonate; and ether oils of formula R1-O-R2, in which Ri and R2 independently of one another denote a linear, branched or cyclic C4-C8 alkyl group, preferably a C4-C8 alkyl group, more preferentially, the composition (B) contains at least one volatile hydrocarbon oil chosen from Cs-Cie alkanes, in particular branched alkanes, preferably isododecane.

11. Process according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the composition (B) comprises an amount of less than 3% by weight of water, preferentially less than 1% by weight of water, better still less than 0.5% by weight of water, even better still less than 0.1% by weight of water, relative to its total weight; even more preferentially, the composition (B) is free of water.

12. Process according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it comprises two successive steps of applying, to said keratin materials, composition (A) and then composition (B), or composition (B) and then composition (A).

13. Process according to any one of Claims 1 to 11, characterized in that it comprises a step of applying to said keratin materials a composition obtained by extemporaneous mixing, at the time of application, of said composition (A) and said composition (B).

14. Multi-compartment kit or device, notably a cosmetic kit or device, for making up keratin materials, in particular the skin, eyelashes and / or eyebrows, comprising at least two separately packaged compositions (A) and (B), with:at least one first compartment containing at least the composition (A) comprising: i) at least one acetoacetate-functional copolymer CP comprising repeating units derived from at least one monomer of formula (I) below:in which:- Rarepresents a hydrogen atom or a linear or branched (Ci-C4)alkyl group;- Rband Rc, which are identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or a linear or branched (Ci-C4)alkyl group;- Rdrepresents a linear or branched (Ci-C4)alkyl group; and- L represents a linear or branched (Ci-Ce)alkylene group or a cycloalkylene group, and at least one monomer, preferably at least two monomers chosen from C1-C4 alkyl acrylates, C1-C4 alkyl methacrylates and mixtures thereof, in particular as defined in Claims 2 to 4; ii) at least one polyol, in particular as defined in Claim 6; iii) at least one alkyl acetate comprising from 2 to 4 carbon atoms; iv) at least one volatile oil, in particular as defined in Claim 7; v) at least one monoalcohol comprising from 2 to 4 carbon atoms;at least one second compartment distinct from said first compartment and containing at least the composition (B), which is anhydrous and comprises: vii) a crosslinking agent chosen from hydrophobic (poly)amine compounds, in particular as defined in Claim 9; with at least one of the compartments comprising vi) at least one particulate colourant, in particular as defined in Claim 8.

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