Cosmetic composition for cosmetic use comprising a linear or branched polyurethane with a high natural origin index (NOI)

Abstract

Cosmetic composition for cosmetic use comprising one or more linear or branched polyurethanes with a high natural origin index (NOI) A cosmetic composition for cosmetics with a high degree of naturalness contains at least one linear or branched polyurethane with a natural origin index (NOI) of greater than 0.85, a polyester polyol formed entirely from natural or naturally derived ingredients with an NOI of 1, and an aliphatic diisocyanate and / or triisocyanate, and further contains at least one cosmetic oil that functions as a solvent for polyurethane synthesis. The polyurethane is capable of forming a film on the skin and preferably has a glossy finish.

Description

[Technical Field]

[0001] The present invention relates to cosmetic compositions for cosmetic applications comprising one or more high Natural Origin Index (NOI) linear or branched polyurethanes derived from naturally occurring polyols selected to obtain, among other things, linear and branched structures, which are capable of forming a film on the skin, have unique rheological properties, and are compatible with many common cosmetic ingredients. In a preferred embodiment, such polyurethanes are provided with a glossy finish. In particular, the present invention relates to the formulation of cosmetic products (of any category) with a high degree of naturalness (natural content greater than 80%), which contain linear or branched polyurethanes of natural origin. [Background technology]

[0002] The cosmetics industry is rapidly moving towards sustainability goals, driven not only by industry regulations and standards (e.g., microplastics), but also by public concerns regarding the ultimate destination of chemicals contained in each formulation (e.g., silicones), chemicals used during manufacturing (e.g., ethylene oxide used for PEG derivatives), ethical origins (palm oil and palm oil derivatives, mica, talc), the natural origin of ingredients (naturalness), and energy consumption for ingredient and product manufacturing.

[0003] To meet these demands, cosmetic manufacturers must continually reformulate their products, eliminating unwanted ingredients and replacing them with sustainable, bio-based, and biodegradable raw materials while maintaining the same cosmetic performance. While reformulating is a routine task for cosmetic formulators, continually removing unwanted ingredients from the "artist's palette" can be a burden.

[0004] Regarding the natural origin of cosmetic ingredients and cosmetic products, two recently introduced parameters are the Natural Origin Index (NOI) or "Natural Index" and the Natural Origin Content (NOC), which are in accordance with the ISO16128-2:2017 standard "Guidelines for technical definitions and criteria for natural and organic cosmetic ingredients - Part 2: Criteria for ingredients and products".

[0005] NOI is a value that indicates the degree to which a cosmetic ingredient meets the definitions of natural, naturally derived, and mineral derived ingredients as defined in the ISO16128-1:2016 standard, "Guidelines for technical definitions and standards for natural and organic cosmetic ingredients and products - Part 1: Ingredient definitions" (Web URL: https: / / www.iso.org / standard / 62503.html). NOI ranges from 0.5 to 1, with 1 being the maximum natural value, and ingredients with a calculated value of 0.5 or less have an NOI of 0.

[0006] The NOC of a product is the mass percentage of all natural ingredients, natural fractions of ingredients, and naturally occurring ingredients contained in the product, ranging from 0% to 100%. It is calculated by multiplying the sum of the relative concentrations of the individual ingredients in the product by their corresponding NOIs.

[0007] These parameters represent criteria widely used today to rank cosmetic ingredients and products in terms of naturalness, taking into account primarily the origin of raw materials and the manufacturing process. The demand for cosmetic products with a high natural index is now commonplace, which reflects the increasing awareness and consciousness of consumers regarding the topic of sustainability in the broader sense.

[0008] To meet these ongoing regulations, it is crucial to embrace ingredients that have previously been ignored and reevaluate them for replacement. Nevertheless, the process is long and largely unstreamlined due to the difficulty of predicting the relationship between chemical structure and physical properties, and between physical properties and cosmetic properties. As a result, selecting replacement ingredients often requires a lengthy, iterative "trial and error" process.

[0009] Furthermore, focusing on a specific category of cosmetic raw materials, such as polymers, and devising ingredients with a high NOI while maintaining the performance of common polymers of petrochemical origin, is by no means an easy task. The functionality that cosmetic polymers can impart to the final product is the result of years of optimizing the synthetic design of polymer structures to obtain materials that are not only capable of forming a more or less self-aligning film on the surface of the skin, but also able to offer particularly long-lasting properties and resistance to all forms of water (seawater, pool water, tears, sweat, etc.).

[0010] Polyurethanes are a favored platform for the study of materials with customized film-forming and structuring properties, as they allow for the creation of chemical structures through the selection of comonomers (rigid or flexible diisocyanates (isophorone diisocyanate, IPDI, or hexamethylene diisocyanate, HDI)), polyols and their relative amounts, and, of course, the overall stoichiometry, which determines the final molecular weight [Galotto N, Pirovano C, Distefano G, Saligari F, Valsesia P, Bettinelli S, Depta G, (2019) "Polyurethane Chemistry for the Formulation of Anhydrous Cosmetics," 25th IFSCC Congress, Milan, Italy]. The solvent selected as the synthetic vehicle also plays an important role. Indeed, to ensure stable formulations, significant added value can be achieved by using cosmetically acceptable ingredients, i.e., solvents compatible with both the starting monomers and the finished product.

[0011] Although recent patents show great interest in this topic, none have demonstrated the realization of cosmetic formulations containing polyurethanes with high NOI that have cosmetic properties similar to those of cosmetic formulations containing petrochemically derived formulations, with respect to their ability to form a film on the skin, particularly a glossy film.

[0012] U.S. Publication No. 2021 / 059924 relates to the use of biobased, biodegradable elastomeric rubber polyurethanes formed by crosslinking polyols with biobased isocyanates synthesized using a bismuth catalyst in the presence of a cosmetic emollient. The purpose is to provide an alternative to fossil-derived cosmetic rubbers, particularly silicone rubbers, which are dispersed in various cosmetic fluids. The resulting rubber is subjected to high-shear milling to obtain particles smaller than 100 microns. The resulting rubber cannot be used as a film-forming polymer. NOI is not considered a driving factor in the design of such elastomers or the selection of crosslinked polyols. Finally, the document fails to mention the salient features desired for cosmetic polyurethanes: hydrophobicity and the ability to form a glossy, uniform film on the skin.

[0013] U.S. Publication No. 2020 / 109231 describes an oil-gelling polyurethane that produces a transparent gel and a method for its production. The gelling polyurethane is produced in a three-step process: 1) functionalization of a di-OH estolide with a diisocyanate derivative to obtain a diisocyanate estolide; 2) chain extension by adding a difunctional compound capable of reacting with the isocyanate of the resulting compound, which may be dissolved in oil; and 3) optional chain termination by adding a nucleophilic compound capable of reacting with residual isocyanate functional groups. The gelling polyurethane is endowed with a high NOI and is used as a gelling agent in cosmetics. This publication makes no mention of film-forming properties, nor of the formation of a glossy film.

[0014] EP 3636321 A1 describes aqueous polyurethaneurea dispersions based on polyester polyols for use as coating compositions, the polyurethanes being used in hair, nail or skin cosmetics.

[0015] US Publication No. 2016 / 272751 relates to polyester polyol-based biomass-derived polyurethanes for the production of synthetic or artificial leather, foam resins for shoe soles, thermoplastic resins, thermosetting resins, coatings, laminating adhesives, and elastic fibers. Cosmetic applications are not considered, and in fact, the polyols are not selected to obtain polyurethanes with high adhesion to the skin and all other cosmetic properties required for cosmetic ingredients.

[0016] Furthermore, although there are high NOI polymers available on the market, these are specifically designed for aqueous formulations in which water is the synthetic solvent, and cannot be used in anhydrous formulations that do not contain water. The present invention therefore relates to the invention of novel polyurethane polymers with high NOI, starting from polyols of natural origin specially selected to obtain linear and branched structures, capable of forming a more or less self-aligning film on the skin, possessing unique rheological properties and good compatibility with many common cosmetic ingredients. In a preferred embodiment, such polyurethanes are provided with a glossy finish.

[0017] Previous research experience has been [Galotto N, Pirovano C, Distefano G, Saligari F, Valsesia P, Bettinelli S, Depta G, (2019) "Formulation of anhydrous cosmetics using polyurethane chemistry", 25th IFSCC Congress (Milan, Italy)], [Distefano G, Pirovano C, Mottadelli S, La Vardera M, Vitali A, Follis R, Valsesia P, Bettinelli S, Depta G (2015) "Glossy comb-type polyurethane film formers with optimized cosmetic properties", 23rd IFSCC Congress (Zurich, Switzerland)], [Morlacchi S ...5) "Glossy comb-type polyurethane film formers with optimized cosmetic properties", 23rd IFSCC Congress (Zurich, Switzerland)]. A (2008) "Cosmetic Compositions Comprising Polyurethanes Based on Dialkyldiol Tartrates and Uses Thereof, International Publication No. WO 2010 / 049480" has shown that structures containing dialkyl (C12,13) ​​tartrates, hydrogenated dilinoleyl alcohol, and HDI and / or IPDI exhibit favorable film-forming properties, skin adhesion, and water resistance. However, the main monomeric diol, dialkyl (C12,13) ​​tartrate, has the disadvantage of being entirely petrochemically derived. Furthermore, isododecane, which is used as a solvent, is also petrochemically derived, as are the diisocyanates HDI and IPDI. [Prior art documents] [Patent documents]

[0018] [Patent Document 1] U.S. Publication No. 2021 / 059924 [Patent Document 2] US Publication No. 2020 / 109231 [Patent Document 3] European Publication No. 3636321 [Patent Document 4] US Publication No. 2016 / 272751 [Patent Document 5] International Publication No. 2010 / 049480 [Non-patent literature]

[0019] [Non-Patent Document 1] Galotto N, Pirovano C, Distefano G, Saligari F, Valsesia P, Bettinelli S, Depta G, 2019, Formulation of Anhydrous Cosmetics Using Polyurethane Chemistry, 25th IFSCC Congress, Milan, Italy [Non-patent document 2] Distefano G, Pirovano C, Mottadelli S, La Vardera M, Vitali A, Follis R, Valsesia P, Bettinell S, Depta G, 2015, Glossy comb polyurethane film formers with optimized cosmetic properties, 23rd IFSCC Congress (Zurich, Switzerland) Summary of the Invention [Problem to be solved by the invention]

[0020] Therefore, the synthesis had to be redesigned to select a combination of different diols with similar functionality and aliphatic branching to provide an overall "comb" structure with skin adhesion and compatibility. Because completely biobased diisocyanates and triisocyanates do not exist, the use of HDI and IPDI represents a necessary compromise in terms of their origin. Furthermore, other synthetic routes to obtain polyurethanes without the use of isocyanates have yet to be industrially implemented. Therefore, the strategy of this invention to reduce the influence of diisocyanate monomers in the synthesis is to use macrodiols with various functionalities similar to those typical of polyesters. Finally, if a solvent is present, it must be replaced with a biobased volatile cosmetic oil or a naturally derived non-volatile emollient with suitable compatibility with the polymer itself and the components of the finished product. [Means for solving the problem]

[0021] In light of the above, the present invention comprises a cosmetic composition for cosmetics having a high degree of naturalness as defined in claim 1. The polymer of the present invention is a) polyester polyols with NOI=1, which are composed entirely of natural or naturally derived components, in particular of plant origin, such as glycerol, fatty acids, dicarboxylic acids, b) optionally polyols of other chemical nature with NOI=1, such as hydrogenated dilinoleyl alcohol, hydrogenated castor oil and derivatives, c) in combination with aliphatic diisocyanates or triisocyanates, which are preferably, but not necessarily, natural components or of natural origin, d) added in the presence of one or more volatile and / or non-volatile emollient cosmetic oils with a high NOI (greater than 0.85) that function as synthesis solvents (e.g., cococaprylate / caprate, caprylic / capric triglyceride, tridecane, undecane, triheptanoin, octyldodecanol, etc.); It is composed of:

[0022] especially, a) Polyester polyol with NOI=1 Polyester polyols made solely from natural ingredients or natural origins are 1) Naturally derived glycerol, 2) a naturally occurring dicarboxylic acid (or mixture of dicarboxylic acids); 3) Natural fatty acids (or mixtures of fatty acids) or fatty acids (or mixtures of fatty acids) of natural origin; It consists only of

[0023] Naturally occurring glycerol is derived from any of the oils that can be extracted from plants, primarily rapeseed, sunflower, and palm. Plant-derived glycerol is obtained through various processes in the oleochemical industry, but is often obtained as a by-product in the production of substances such as fatty acids and biodiesel. The process for obtaining glycerol is, for example, - Hydrolysis of glycerides under pressure, transesterification by alcoholysis of glycerides (a process for the production of fatty alcohols or biodiesel), - Saponification of glycerides with caustic alkali (toilet soap preparation process), -synthesis from propylene, and Fermentation of simple sugars by alcoholic fermentation is one example.

[0024] Dicarboxylic acids of natural origin include succinic acid, azelaic acid, sebacic acid, and dilinoleic acid, among others. Examples of commercially available dicarboxylic acids guaranteed to be of plant origin include azelaic acid under the trade name Matrilox IA001M (Matrica), obtained from the conversion of vegetable oils from sustainable cultivation, such as milk thistle (Silybum marianum), commonly grown in Sardinia (Italy), succinic acid under the trade name Biosuccinum (Rocket), obtained from a "carbon-negative" process of biomass fermentation, and dilinoleic acid under the trade name Pripol 1009 (Cargill), obtained from linseed oil.

[0025] For example, polyester polyols containing azelaic acid utilize the acid as a biological building block obtained from biorefineries converting biomass from non-edible plant sources (Cynara cardunculus) that grow in arid regions unsuitable for food cultivation. Replacing succinic acid in the polyester structure with azelaic acid results in a polyurethane with similar properties (gloss and viscosity) but with a higher NOI, imparting more aliphatic character (4 vs. 9 carbon atoms), improving compatibility with non-polar components. The use of dilinoleic acid further enhances the hydrophobic properties and adhesion of the material, due to its longer hydrocarbon chain structure, which has a much higher affinity for non-polar matrices.

[0026] Fatty acids are the basic products of the oleochemical industry. They are obtained through various industrial processes starting from different types of plants. Plant-derived saturated and unsaturated fatty acids of different chain lengths are commercially available. The process of hydrogenating unsaturated fatty acids results in materials that are more stable to oxidation and rancidity and are therefore more suitable for use in cosmetics. A fatty acid or mixture of fatty acids having a chain length of from 4 to 50 carbon atoms can be used. In particular, one or more organic diacids (4-50 carbon atoms) and one or more organic monoacids (4-50 carbon atoms) can be used in combination with glycerol.

[0027] The polyester polyol components are combined in appropriate amounts to balance complementary mono-, di-, and tri-functional reactive moieties, and polymerized into linear polyesters having molecular GPC molecular weights greater than 1000 Da, residual hydroxyl functionality in the range of 50-250 mg KOH / g (preferably 170-190 mg KOH / g), and capable of undergoing diisocyanate addition and chain extension.

[0028] These features allow for tailoring of viscosity and lubrication properties, resulting in polyols with an NOI of 1 suitable for the production of linear or branched polyurethanes for cosmetic applications, where the introduction of carbamate groups provides additional sites for hydrogen bonding, promoting molecular interactions between polymer molecules and with the epidermal matrix, maximizing adhesion and affinity to the skin, and providing outstanding film-forming properties.

[0029] b) Polyols of other chemical nature with NOI=1 include, for example, dimers of fatty alcohols obtained by hydrogenation of dimers of unsaturated fatty acids, and oils obtained by hydrogenation of natural oils containing multiple hydroxy groups, in particular hydrogenated dilinoleyl alcohol and hydrogenated castor oil.

[0030] The optional introduction of these polyols aims to further adjust the compatibility, rheological and structural properties of the resulting material, increasing its affinity for a wider range of cosmetic oils, while at the same time optimizing the structural and rheological properties of the polymer.

[0031] The dimer of fatty alcohol can be obtained by hydrogenation of the dimer of unsaturated fatty acids such as oleic acid, linoleic acid, palmitoleic acid, linolenic acid, arachidonic acid, etc. Preferably, hydrogenated dilinoleyl alcohol under the trade name Pripol 2030 (Cargill) is used. Among the oils obtained by hydrogenation of natural oils containing multiple hydroxy groups, the hydrogenated castor oil from Cutina HR Flakes (BASF) is preferred.

[0032] c) The aliphatic diisocyanates or triisocyanates are preferably, but not necessarily, partly natural components or of natural origin. Diisocyanates and triisocyanates can be selected from a group of molecules including isophorone diisocyanate (IPDI), hexamethylene diisocyanate (HDI), and bis(4-isocyanatocyclohexyl)methane (HMDI). In addition to these fossil-derived isocyanates, partially natural isocyanates are commercially available today. Examples include pentamethylene diisocyanate isocyanurate (PDI trimer) with 68% biobased carbon and three isocyanate groups, under the trade name Desmodur ECO N7300 (Covestro), L-lysine diisocyanate (LDI), and a partially natural derivative of HDI with a claimed 32% biobased carbon content, under the trade name Tolonate X FLO 100 (Vencorex Chemicals).

[0033] d) High NOI (greater than 85%) volatile and non-volatile cosmetic emollient oils with synthetic solvent functionality include, for example (non-exhaustive list): cococaprylate / caprate, caprylic / capric triglyceride, tridecane, undecane, triheptanoin, octyldodecanol, etc.

[0034] Cosmetic oils with synthetic solvent function are appropriately selected to obtain a uniform dispersion of the polymer, to allow a better incorporation of the new polyurethanes into the cosmetic formulation, to enhance film-forming properties, long-lasting adhesion to the skin and gloss. [Effects of the Invention]

[0035] The materials described in this application are the first in a new family of polyurethanes derived from nature, designed to improve skin adhesion, gloss, durability, and good sensory properties, and endowed with a high naturalness index that can be utilized to formulate products where high naturalness is desired. In particular, by carefully combining selected materials, linear and branched polyurethanes can be obtained that possess the rheological properties of the elastic linear or branched components. DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION

[0036] As shown in the examples below, polyurethanes have been successfully synthesized. [Example]

[0037] [Table 1]

[0038] Cococaprylate / caprate was selected as the cosmetic oil for synthesizing the polyurethane in this example. A succinic acid-derived polyester polyol and hydrogenated dilinoleyl alcohol were dissolved in a solvent in the presence of a zinc catalyst (e.g., zinc octoate) and IPDI. The mixture was heated to 90°C and allowed to react for approximately 4 hours until the isocyanate groups were completely converted to carbamate groups. A small amount of alcohol (e.g., ethanol) was added to terminate the polymerization. Any unreacted reagents were removed under vacuum before the product was cooled and discharged. [Example]

[0039] [Table 2]

[0040] Caprylic / capric triglyceride was selected as the cosmetic oil for synthesizing the polyurethane in this example. Azelaic acid-derived polyester polyol was dissolved in a solvent in the presence of a zinc catalyst (e.g., zinc octanoate), HDI, and PDI trimer. The mixture was heated to 100°C and allowed to react for approximately 3 hours until the isocyanate groups were completely converted to carbamate groups. A small amount of alcohol (e.g., ethanol) was added to terminate the polymerization. Any unreacted reagents were removed under vacuum before the product was cooled and discharged. [Example]

[0041] [Table 3]

[0042] Caprylic / capric triglyceride was selected as the cosmetic oil for synthesizing the polyurethane in this example. Dilinoleic acid-derived polyester polyol and hydrogenated castor oil were dissolved in a solvent in the presence of a zinc catalyst (e.g., zinc octanoate) and IPDI trimer. The mixture was heated to 80°C and allowed to react for approximately 8 hours until the isocyanate groups were completely converted to carbamate groups. A small amount of alcohol (e.g., ethanol) was added to terminate the polymerization. Any unreacted reagents were removed under vacuum before the product was cooled and discharged.

[0043] Physicochemical characterization (ATR-FTIR, DSC, SEC-GPC) was performed to determine the structure, thermal behavior, and molecular weight of the synthesized polymers. See the graphs in Figures 1 to 3. [Brief explanation of the drawings]

[0044] [Figure 1] 1 shows a DSC graph of the linear polyurethane of Example 1, illustrating the crystallization and dissolution of the material in solvent. [Figure 2] 1 shows a GPC chromatogram of the linear polyurethane of Example 1, showing that the molecular weight distribution curve of the material is over a range of several orders of magnitude (1000 kDa < weight average molecular weight (Mw) < 1 kDa) with high dispersity and an average Mw of approximately 60 kDa. [Figure 3] Figure 1 shows the FT-IR graph of the linear polyurethane of Example 1, where the disappearance of the NCO signal (absence of the peak at 2226 cm) and the appearance of peaks related to urethane groups in the IR spectrum of the reaction mixture indicate the conversion of isocyanate and the expected formation of polyurethane.

[0045] As shown in the table below, the novel high NOI polyurethanes of the present invention were compared to petrochemically derived polyurethanes based on alkyl tartrates.

[0046] [Table 4]

[0047] Gloss measurements were performed using a triangular glossmeter, Elcometer 407. A film was formed on cardboard using a spiral bar as the applicator. If volatile oils were present, the gloss was measured after the film had completely dried. For glossy surfaces, the tolerance is measured at 20°.

[0048] The gloss values ​​of the polyurethanes of Example 1 (105 GU), Example 2 (78 GU), and Example 3 (73 GU) are higher than those of the HDI / C12-14 dialkyl tartrate / hydrogenated dilinoleyl alcohol copolymer, demonstrating their potential as cosmetics for achieving a glossy finish.

[0049] The films thus obtained are characterized by their non-transferability, and indeed another problem to be addressed is their water and oil resistance in order to impart water and food resistance to cosmetics containing said polyurethanes.

[0050] These characteristics can be detected using the contact angle of thin film layers with water, and the surface energies of the polymers can be compared and evaluated accordingly. Alkyl tartrate-based polyurethanes have contact angles with water ranging from 90° to 100°, making the entire surface hydrophobic and providing excellent oil resistance. In comparison, the silicone-based polyurethane bishydroxyethoxypropyl dimethicone / IPDI copolymer ethyl carbamate has a contact angle greater than 120° due to the presence of polydimethylsiloxane functional groups, making it the gold standard for film-forming properties that impart water and food resistance to cosmetics containing it. In this regard, the new polyurethanes are completely immiscible with water and exhibit water resistance. At the same time, the contact angles of 78.5° for the polyurethanes in Example 1, 78.0° for Example 2, and 75.5° for Example 3 indicate higher polarity, favoring better adhesion to skin due to the adhesion force mediated by polar interactions.

[0051] Compatibility with common cosmetic ingredients was studied and the new materials were used as base components in innovative makeup formulations. The expected cosmetic properties of the high NOI polyurethanes that are the object of this invention have been verified in various cosmetic formulations, as listed below.

[0052] In the compact powder eye shadow of Example 4 (containing Finish Frost at 2.5% by weight of the total formulation), the use of the novel polymer of Example 1 improved the adhesion and durability of the cosmetic film, while at the same time contributing to the luster of the pearlescent pigment, effectively replacing the petrochemical-derived structural component (hydrogenated styrene / isoprene copolymer) without weakening the luster of the pearlescent pigment.

[0053] On the other hand, the novel polymers of Examples 1 and 2 were used as shine enhancers in the linear or branched lip cosmetics of Example 5. The lip liquids provide a uniform, comfortable, and soft film with deep color payoff and high shine.

[0054] In the lip gloss of Example 6, the presence of the branched polyurethane (Example 3) allows it to provide significant film-forming properties that are pleasant to the touch upon application and remain comfortable and glossy over time. Example 4

[0055] [Table 5]

[0056] The product is characterized by its vibrant color, good adhesion to the skin, and long-lasting properties. Example 5

[0057] [Table 6]

[0058] This product is characterized by high gloss, durability, water resistance and high color rendering. Example 6

[0059] [Table 7]

[0060] This product is characterized by its high gloss and long wear.

Claims

1. In a cosmetic composition for cosmetic use that is highly natural and suitable for forming a film on the skin, The composition comprises at least one linear or branched polyurethane having a Nationally Observed Indices (NOI) of 0.85 or higher. - A polyester polyol with NOI = 1, formed entirely from natural or naturally derived components. - comprising at least an aliphatic diisocyanate and / or triisocyanate, The composition further comprises at least one cosmetic oil having the function of a solvent for polyurethane synthesis, The cosmetic composition is characterized in that the component of the NOI=1 polyester polyol is synthesized starting from glycerol, one or more organic diacids (having 4 to 50 carbon atoms), and one or more organic monoacids (having 4 to 50 carbon atoms).

2. The cosmetic composition according to claim 1, wherein the linear or branched polyurethane has gloss.

3. The cosmetic composition according to claim 2, wherein the linear or branched polyurethane has a gloss of 70 or more as expressed by gloss unit (GU).

4. The cosmetic composition according to claim 1, wherein the linear or branched polyurethane is provided with durability, water resistance, and food resistance.

5. The aforementioned polyester polyol with NOI = 1 is - Plant-derived glycerol obtained from oils that can be extracted from plants, especially rapeseed, sunflower, or coconut, - In particular succinic acid, azelaic acid, sebacic acid, and dilinoleic acid, which are naturally derived dicarboxylic acids or mixtures of dicarboxylic acids, - Plant-derived fatty acids or mixtures of fatty acids, A cosmetic composition according to claim 1, comprising the above.

6. The cosmetic composition according to claim 1, wherein the aliphatic diisocyanate and / or triisocyanate consists of a natural ingredient or a naturally derived ingredient.

7. The cosmetic composition according to claim 1, wherein the aliphatic diisocyanate and / or triisocyanate is selected from isophorone diisocyanate (IPDI), hexamethylene diisocyanate (HDI), bis(4-isocyanatocyclohexyl)methane (HMDI), pentamethylene diisocyanate isocyanurate (PDI trimer), L-lysine diisocyanate (LDI), and a derivative of HDI containing 32% bio-based carbon.

8. The cosmetic composition according to claim 1, wherein the cosmetic oil is an emollient cosmetic oil, and in particular is cococaprylate / caprate, caprylic / capric triglyceride, tridecane, undecane, triheptanoin, or octyldodecanol.

9. The cosmetic composition according to claim 1, wherein the linear or branched polyurethane further comprises a polyol having other chemical properties of NOI = 1, the polyol being selected from hydrogenated dilinoleyl alcohol, hydrogenated castor oil, a dimer of aliphatic alcohol obtained by hydrogenation of dimers of unsaturated fatty acids, and an oil obtained by hydrogenation of a natural oil containing a plurality of hydroxyl groups.

10. The cosmetic composition according to one or more of claims 8 to 9, wherein the reaction between the polyester polyol, a diisocyanate and / or triisocyanate, and optionally an additional polyol of other chemical properties with NOI=1 occurs in the presence of the cosmetic oil which functions as a solvent for polyurethane synthesis.

11. The cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 9, characterized in that it has a formulation in which the naturally derived content (NOC) exceeds 80.

12. The cosmetic composition according to claim 10, characterized in that it has a formulation in which the naturally derived content (NOC) exceeds 80.

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