Cosmetic composition based on chitosan and at least one crystalline aliphatic compound

Abstract

The present invention relates to compositions, particularly compositions for makeuping and / or caring for the skin and / or lips and / or skin appendages, comprising in a physiologically acceptable aqueous medium: a) 0.01 to 15% by mass of natural chitosan having a molecular weight strictly greater than 3000 daltons, relative to the total mass of the composition; and b) at least one crystalline fat. The present invention also relates to methods for makeuping and / or caring for the skin and / or lips and / or skin appendages, wherein the compositions according to the present invention are applied to the skin and / or lips and / or skin appendages.

Description

[Technical Field]

[0001] The present invention relates to compositions, particularly compositions for makeup and / or care of skin and / or lips and / or skin appendages, in a physiologically acceptable aqueous medium, a) Natural chitosan having a molecular weight strictly greater than 3000 daltons, in an amount of 0.01 to 15% by mass relative to the total mass of the composition, and b) At least one type of crystalline fat This relates to a composition containing the following:

[0002] The present invention also relates to a method for makeuping and / or caring for the skin, and / or lips, and / or skin appendages, wherein a composition according to the present invention is applied to the skin, and / or lips, and / or skin appendages. [Background technology]

[0003] Many cosmetic compositions require a film with good durability after application to keratinous materials. Examples include lipstick, foundation, mascara, and nail polish. To achieve this, specific ingredients, particularly film-forming agents, can be combined. Furthermore, obtaining compositions with good covering power is often desired.

[0004] A system is needed to obtain a composition that is easy to formulate, preferably fluid, chitosan-based, has good sensory properties when applied, whose deposited material has good optical properties such as coverage and matte finish, and has good resistance, such as enhanced resistance to dry mechanical wear, oil, or water.

[0005] There is a particular need for a system to obtain a chitosan-based composition in the form of an emulsion or even an aqueous gel, which has enhanced resistance to water in particular.

[0006] Furthermore, the formulation of environmentally friendly cosmetics, i.e., the design and development considering environmental issues, has become an important concern in contributing to the solution of global environmental problems.

[0007] Therefore, it is essential to propose more sustainable compositions, and / or preparation methods, and / or ingredients to address these environmental issues.

[0008] In this context, it is important to develop new cosmetic compositions with a better carbon footprint by reducing the use of petrochemical - derived compounds and, in particular, promoting the use of renewable raw materials, and / or raw materials with a good wilderness quality index, and / or raw materials of natural origin, more specifically plant - derived raw materials.

Prior Art Documents

Patent Documents

[0009]

Patent Document 1

Patent Document 2

Patent Document 3

Patent Document 4

Patent Document 5

Patent Document 6

Patent Document 7

Patent Document 8

Patent Document 9

Patent Document 10

Patent Document 11

[0010] [Non-Patent Document 1] "Encyclopedia of Polymer Science and Engineering," Volume 15, John and Wiley and Sons, New York (1989), pp. 265-270. [Non-Patent Document 2] Ullmann's Encyclopedia [Non-Patent Document 3] Chapters 9 and 10 of the book "Light Scattering by Small Particles" by Van de Hulst, HC, Wiley, New York, 1957. [Non-Patent Document 4] Witucki, A silane primer, Chemistry and applications of alkoxysilanes, Journal of Coatings Technology, 65, 822, pp. 57-60, 1993. [Non-Patent Document 5] Paper by C.M. Hansen, "The three-dimensional solubility parameters," J. Paint Technol. 39, 105 (1967). [Overview of the Initiative]

[0011] These problems can be solved by using the cosmetic compositions described below, which have good compatibility, good cosmetic properties, in particular good resistance to water, oil and / or sebum in dry friction, good makeup properties such as coverage or mattifying properties, and good sensory properties. The object of the present invention is to provide an emulsion that contains chitosan and has good resistance to drying, water and / or oil.

[0012] After application, these compositions optionally leave a coating and uniform film-forming deposit, which has good resistance to abrasion. The formed film is adhesive and cohesive and has enhanced resistance to drying, water, and / or oil.

[0013] These compositions also contain sustainable ingredients and help address environmental issues.

[0014] Therefore, the present invention relates to compositions, particularly compositions for makeup and / or care of skin and / or lips and / or skin appendages, in a physiologically acceptable aqueous medium, a) Natural chitosan having a molecular weight strictly greater than 3000 daltons, in an amount of 0.01 to 15% by mass relative to the total mass of the composition, and b) At least one type of crystalline fat This relates to a composition containing the following:

[0015] In fact, the inventors have surprisingly discovered that adding crystalline fats to a chitosan-containing composition, preferably an emulsion or aqueous gel, can enhance the composition's resistance to drying, water, and / or oil. It has also been observed that these two components work synergistically to produce a uniform composition and a pleasant texture upon application, with controlled viscosity. [Modes for carrying out the invention]

[0016] "Physiologically acceptable" means that the medium is compatible with keratinic substances.

[0017] Preferably, the composition according to the present invention contains 10% by mass or less, preferably 5% by mass or less, and preferably 0.1 to 10% by mass of silicone, based on the total mass of the composition.

[0018] Silicone refers to any silicone compound.

[0019] Preferably, the composition according to the present invention is substantially free of silicones other than film-forming or adhesive silicone polymers, preferably silicones other than silicone resins or silicone acrylate copolymers, and preferably silicones other than MQ resins or acrylate / polytrimethylsiloxy-methacrylate copolymers.

[0020] "Substantially free of silicones different from film-forming or adhesive silicone polymers, preferably silicone resins or silicone acrylate copolymers, preferably MQ resins or silicones different from acrylate / polytrimethylsiloxy-methacrylate copolymers" means that the composition contains less than 1% by mass, preferably less than 0.5% by mass, preferably less than 0.3% by mass, preferably less than 0.1% by mass, based on the total mass of the composition, of silicones different from film-forming or adhesive silicone polymers, preferably silicone resins or silicone acrylate copolymers, preferably MQ resins or silicones different from acrylate / polytrimethylsiloxy-methacrylate copolymers. Preferably, the composition is completely free of silicones different from film-forming or adhesive silicone polymers, preferably silicone resins or silicone acrylate copolymers, preferably MQ resins or silicones different from acrylate / polytrimethylsiloxy-methacrylate copolymers. A silicone different from film-forming or adhesive silicone polymers, preferably a silicone resin or a silicone acrylate copolymer, preferably an MQ resin or a silicone different from an acrylate / polytrimethylsiloxy-methacrylate copolymer, means any silicone compound that is not a film-forming or adhesive silicone polymer, preferably not a silicone resin or a silicone acrylate copolymer, preferably not an MQ resin or an acrylate / polytrimethylsiloxy-methacrylate copolymer.

[0021] "Resin" refers to a compound having a three-dimensional structure. Therefore, in the context of this invention, polydimethylsiloxane is not a silicone resin.

[0022] The classification of silicone resins is known by the name "MDTQ," where the resin is described according to the various siloxane monomer units it contains, with each letter "MDTQ" characterizing the type of unit.

[0023] The letter "M" is represented by the formula R1R2R3SiO 1 / 2 This represents a monofunctional unit having a silicon atom bonded to a single oxygen atom in the polymer containing this unit.

[0024] The letter "D" represents the bifunctional unit R1R2SiO 2 / 2 This shows that this silicon atom is bonded to two oxygen atoms.

[0025] The letter "T" is in the formula R1SiO 3 / 2 It represents a trifunctional unit possessing three functional properties.

[0026] In the M, D, and T structural units defined above, Ri, i.e., R1, R2, and R3, are identical or different and represent a hydrocarbon group (especially alkyl), a phenyl group, a phenylalkyl group, or a hydroxyl group having 1 to 10 carbon atoms.

[0027] Finally, the letter "Q" represents the tetrafunctional unit SiO₂. 4 / 2 This shows that this silicon atom is bonded to four oxygen atoms, which in turn bond to the rest of the polymer.

[0028] Such resins are described, for example, in the Encyclopedia of Polymer Science and Engineering, Volume 15, John and Wiley and Sons, New York (1989), pp. 265-270, and in U.S. Patents 2,676,182, 3,627,851, 3,772,247, 5,248,739, or 5,082,706, 5,319,040, 5,302,685, and 4,935,484.

[0029] MQ-type silicone resins include, for example, those of the formula [(R1)3SiO 1 / 2 ] x (SiO 4 / 2 ) yThis is an alkylsiloxysilicate having (MQ units) (wherein x and y are integers in the range of 50 to 80, and the R1 group is the group defined above, preferably an alkyl group having 1 to 8 carbon atoms, or a hydroxyl group, preferably a methyl group). In particular, it is subdivided into trimethylsiloxysilicate or phenylalkylsiloxysilicate resin, for example, phenylpropyldimethylsiloxysilicate.

[0030] Examples of silicone polymers include siloxanes having organo-functional groups, for example, polyalkylsiloxanes in which at least one alkyl group is different from methyl, for example, organopolysiloxanes having the INCI names stearyl dimethicone, cetyl dimethicone, or C26-28 alkyl dimethicone, or for example, polyarylsiloxanes and polyarylalkylsiloxanes, for example, organopolysiloxanes having the INCI names phenyl trimethicone, trimethylsiloxyphenyl dimethicone, or dimethylphenyl dimethicone, or for example, Examples of organo-functional groups include organopolysiloxanes having aminopropyl, aminopropyl-aminoethyl, or aminopropyl-aminoisobutyl groups, such as organopolysiloxanes with the INCI name amodimethicone, or organopolysiloxanes having polyethylene glycol or polyalkylene glycol groups, such as organopolysiloxanes with the INCI names PEG-12 dimethicone, PEG / PPG-25,25-dimethicone, or cetyl PEG / PPG-15 / 15 butyl ether dimethicone.

[0031] Silicone acrylate copolymers are polymers containing siloxane groups and hydrocarbon groups. For example, suitable polymers include polymers comprising a hydrocarbon main chain, such as a main chain selected from vinyl polymers, methacrylic polymers, and / or acrylic polymers, and at least one chain selected from pendant siloxane groups, and polymers comprising a siloxane group main chain and at least one hydrocarbon chain, such as pendant vinyl, methacrylic, and / or acrylic groups.

[0032] The silicone acrylate copolymer can be selected from nonpolar silicone copolymers having repeating units of at least one polar (meth)acrylate unit, and polymers derived from vinyl copolymers grafted with at least one nonpolar silicone chain. Non-limiting examples of such copolymers include acrylate / dimethicone copolymers, such as those commercially available from Shin-Etsu Chemical Co., Ltd., such as KP-545 (cyclopentasiloxane (and) acrylates / dimethicone copolymer), KP-543 (butyl acetate (and) acrylates / dimethicone copolymer), KP-549 (methyl trimethicone (and) acrylates / dimethicone copolymer), KP-550 (INCI name: isododecane (and) acrylate / dimethicone copolymer), KP-561 (acrylates / stearyl acrylate / dimethicone acrylates copolymer), KP-562 (acrylates / behenyl acrylate / dimethicone acrylates copolymer), and mixtures thereof. Additional examples include acrylate / dimethicone copolymers and mixtures thereof, sold by Dow Corning under the brand names FA 4001 CM SILICONE ACRYLATE (cyclopentasiloxane and acrylates / polytrimethylsiloxymethacrylate copolymer), FA 4002 ID SILICONE ACRYLATE (isododecane and acrylates / polytrimethylsiloxymethacrylate copolymer), and FA 4004 ID SILICONE ACRYLATE (isododecane and acrylates / polytrimethylsiloxymethacrylate copolymer).

[0033] According to the embodiment, the composition according to the present invention is substantially silicone-free. "Substantially silicone-free" means that the composition contains less than 1% by mass, preferably less than 0.5% by mass, preferably less than 0.3% by mass, and preferably less than 0.1% by mass, of the total mass of the composition. Preferably, the composition is completely silicone-free. According to this embodiment, silicone means any silicone compound, including film-forming or adhesive silicone polymers.

[0034] The composition is preferably provided in the form of an emulsion, preferably an oil-in-water emulsion (direct emulsion) or an oil-in-water emulsion (reverse emulsion).

[0035] According to embodiments, the composition according to the present invention is in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion having an oily phase / aqueous phase mass ratio particularly between 5:95 and 80:20, preferably between 8:92 and 65:35, preferably between 10:90 and 60:40, preferably between 12:88 and 50:50, and preferably between 15:85 and 40:60.

[0036] According to embodiments, the composition according to the present invention is in the form of a water-in-oil emulsion having an oily phase / aqueous phase mass ratio between 90:10 and 20:80, preferably between 80:20 and 30:70, preferably between 70:30 and 40:60, and preferably between 65:35 and 45:55.

[0037] The compositions according to the present invention may also be provided in the form of an aqueous dispersion or an aqueous gel.

[0038] The present invention also relates to a cosmetic method for makeuping and / or caring for the skin, and / or lips, and / or skin appendages, wherein a composition according to the present invention is applied to the skin, and / or lips, and / or skin appendages.

[0039] Chitosan The composition according to the present invention contains at least one natural chitosan having a molecular weight strictly greater than 3000 daltons (3 kDa), in an amount of 0.01 to 15% by mass relative to the total mass of the composition.

[0040] The amount of natural chitosan is strictly less than 15% by mass of the total mass of the composition.

[0041] Preferably, the natural chitosan has a molecular weight of 10 kDa or more, preferably 15 kDa or more, and preferably 20 kDa or more. Preferably, the natural chitosan has a molecular weight between 10 kDa and 2 MDa, preferably between 15 kDa and 1.5 MDa, preferably between 20 kDa and 300 kDa, and preferably between 20 kDa and 200 kDa.

[0042] One Dalton is equivalent to 1 g / mol.

[0043] Chitosan is not widely found in nature. It has only been reported in the exoskeletons of certain insects, such as termite queens, and in the cell walls of certain classes of fungi, namely Zygomycetes.

[0044] Chitosan is obtained by the deacetylation of chitin. Chitin is a polysaccharide composed of several N-acetyl-D-glucosamine units interconnected by β-(1,4) type bonds.

[0045] The ideal chemical structure of chitosan is a chain of β-D-glucosamine monomers linked by glycosidic (1→4) bonds.

[0046] According to the present invention, "chitosan" means any copolymer composed of N-acetyl-D-glucosamine and D-glucosamine structural units, with a degree of acetylation of less than 90%. Chitosan consists of glucosamine sugar units (deacetylated units) and N-acetyl-D-glucosamine units (acetylated units) interconnected by β(1,4) type bonds, and corresponds to a poly(N-acetyl-D-glucosamine)-poly(D-glucosamine) type polymer.

[0047] Preferably, the degree of acetylation of chitosan is 80% or less, preferably 70% or less, preferably 60% or less, preferably 50% or less, preferably 35% or less, preferably 25% or less, and preferably 15% or less.

[0048] The degree of acetylation is the percentage of acetylated units relative to the total number of units, and can be determined by Fourier transform infrared spectroscopy (FTIR) or titration using a strong base.

[0049] The chitosan according to the present invention is preferably a polysaccharide prepared from a fungal source. In particular, the chitosan is extracted and purified from safe and abundant food-grade or biotechnically derived fungal sources, such as mushrooms (Agaricus bisporus) or black mold (Aspergillus niger).

[0050] The chitosan according to the present invention is preferably obtained from the mycelium of Ascomycetes type fungi, particularly Aspergillus niger, and / or Basidiomycetes fungi, particularly Lentinula edodes and / or button mushrooms. Preferably, the fungus is Aspergillus niger.

[0051] The chitosan may be of GMO origin, but is preferably of non-GMO origin.

[0052] The chitosan used in this invention is natural, meaning it is unmodified. In particular, it has not undergone any chemical modification whatsoever.

[0053] One method for preparing chitosan is described in International Patent Application Publication No. 03068824.

[0054] Preferably, the chitosan used in the present invention is in powder form. In particular, it is commercially available from Kitozyme under the names Kiosmetine or Kionutrime.

[0055] Chitosan is preferably present in an amount ranging from 0.01% to 14% by mass, preferably 0.1% to 14% by mass, preferably 0.1% to 12% by mass, preferably 0.2% to 7% by mass, preferably 0.25% to 5% by mass, preferably 0.3% to 3% by mass, or more preferably 0.5% to 2% by mass, relative to the total mass of the composition.

[0056] Crystalline fat The composition according to the present invention contains at least one crystalline fat.

[0057] "Fat" refers to an organic compound that is insoluble in water at normal room temperature (25°C) and atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg) (solubility of less than 5%, preferably less than 1%, and even more preferably less than 0.1%). Fat has in its structure at least one hydrocarbon chain containing at least six carbon atoms, or at least two chains of siloxane groups. The crystalline fats according to the present invention are of natural or synthetic origin, preferably natural, and more preferably plant or insect or animal origin. Crystalline fats are different from fatty acids because chlorinated fatty acids generally form soaps that are soluble in aqueous media.

[0058] For the purposes of this invention, crystalline fat refers to a lipophilic compound that is solid at room temperature (25°C), deformable or indeformable, and has a melting point of 25°C or higher, preferably between 25°C and 200°C, preferably between 35°C and 150°C, preferably between 45°C and 130°C, and preferably between 55°C and 120°C.

[0059] Some crystalline fats are commonly referred to as waxes.

[0060] wax According to a particular embodiment, the composition according to the present invention comprises one or more waxes.

[0061] "Wax" refers to a lipophilic compound that is solid at room temperature (25°C) and atmospheric pressure, reversibly changes between solid and liquid states, has a melting point of 30°C or higher, and can reach a maximum of 200°C, particularly 120°C. In particular, waxes suitable for the present invention may have a melting point of 45°C or higher, particularly 55°C or higher. In particular, waxes suitable for the present invention may have a melting point of 45°C or higher, particularly 55°C or higher.

[0062] For the purposes of this invention, the melting point is the temperature of the highest endothermic peak observed in thermal analysis (DSC), as described in ISO standard 11357-3;1999. The melting point of crystalline fats can be measured using a differential scanning calorimeter (DSC), for example, a calorimeter sold by TA Instruments under the name MDSC 2920. Such a measurement method is described, for example, in document PCT / EP2013 / 062964.

[0063] Examples of mineral-derived crystalline fats include paraffin wax, ozokerite, ceresin, and microcrystalline waxes.

[0064] Among plant-derived crystalline fats, examples include carnauba wax, candelilla wax (e.g., sold by Strahl & Pitsch under the reference name SP 75 G), bay leaf wax, sugarcane wax, ceramide, alpha wax, olive tree wax, rice wax (e.g., sold by Cera Rica Noda under the reference name NC 1720), sunflower (seed) wax (e.g., sold by Koster Keunen under the reference name sunflower wax), hydrogenated jojoba wax, hydrogenated castor oil, hydrogenated olive oil, hydrogenated cotton oil, polyglyceryl-3 esters of green mimosa, jojoba and sunflower waxes, and absolute flower waxes, such as blackcurrant flower essential wax, soybean wax, and bayberry fruit waxes.

[0065] Other plant-derived crystalline fats include, for example: Caranday wax, raffia wax, Colombian wax, alpha wax, alfalfa wax, bamboo wax, hemp wax, Douglas wax, cork wax, sisal wax, linseed wax, cotton wax, dammer wax, cereal wax, tea wax, coffee wax, ocatilla wax, palm wax, bayberry wax, beberi wax, ucuhuba wax, borneo wax, malabar wax, illipe wax, and Japan taro or Japan wax.

[0066] Examples of crystalline fats of animal origin include beeswax or modified beeswax (cerabellina), lanolin, and whale wax.

[0067] The crystalline fat may also be selected from long-chain crystalline alcohols and mixtures thereof, such as cetearyl alcohol (C16 / C18 50 / 50), stearyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, C26-C22 alcohols, etc.

[0068] Crystalline fats also include long-chain crystalline esters and mixtures thereof, for example, INCI compound "cetyl ester (and) cetyl ester mixture of myristyl stearate and myristyl palmitate", or INCI compound "mixture of myristyl stearate and myristyl palmitate", glycol distearate, glycol stearate, cetyl palmitate, for example, the commercially available product ERCAWAX CP V / O from supplier ERCA, isopropyl palmitate, C20-C40 alkyl stearates, long-chain crystalline esters of glycerol and mixtures thereof, for example, COMPRITOL 888 CG from Gattefosse. Compounds sold under the ATO trademark name (INCI: glyceryl dibehenate (and) tribehenin (and) glyceryl behenate), etc., or each of the separately obtained components may be selected from: triesters of glycerol and behenic acid (INCI: tribehenin), triesters of glycerol and hydroxystearic acid (INCI: trihydroxystearin), tricaprine, trilaurin, trimiristine, tripalmitine, tristearin, glycerol distearate, glyceryl distearate, glyceryl dipalmitostearate, and linoleoyl polyoxyl-6 glyceride. The crystalline fats selected from long-chain crystalline esters and mixtures thereof are preferably selected from esters of glycerol and C12-C24 fatty acids optionally substituted with hydroxyl groups.

[0069] Crystalline fats may also be selected from alkyl long-chain crystalline fatty acids and mixtures thereof, for example, INCI compound "stearic acid," mixtures of stearic acid and palmitic acid, in particular C4-C28 saturated fatty acids, and C4-C28 unsaturated fatty acids.

[0070] Other crystalline fats that can be used in accordance with the present invention include, in particular, marine waxes, polyethylene waxes, or polyolefin waxes in general, such as α-olefin oligomers, such as Performa V® 825, 103, and 260 polymers sold by New Phase Technologies, ethylene / propylene copolymers, such as Performalene® EP 700, or Fischer-Tropsch waxes, or mixtures of these products.

[0071] Preferably, the crystalline fat is selected from crystalline fats of animal or plant origin, esters of glycerol with C12-C24 fatty acids optionally substituted with hydroxyl groups, and copolymers of sorbitol and C6-C16 fatty acids esterified with C12-C24 fatty acids; preferably, triesters of glycerol and behenic acid, triesters of glycerol and hydroxystearic acid, candelilla wax, sunflower wax, beeswax, carnauba wax, mixtures of mono, di, and triesters obtained from glycerol and behenic acid, and copolymers of sorbitol and sebacic acid esterified with behenic acid; preferably, triesters of glycerol and behenic acid, triesters of glycerol and hydroxystearic acid, and sunflower wax.

[0072] Preferably, crystalline fat is present in a concentration of 0.01% to 40% by mass, preferably 0.1% to 15% by mass, preferably 0.2% to 12% by mass, preferably 1% to 10% by mass, preferably 1% to 8% by mass, and advantageously between 1.5% and 7% by mass, relative to the total mass of the composition.

[0073] According to the embodiment, the mass ratio between chitosan and crystalline fat is between 0.00025 and 300, preferably between 0.001 and 100, preferably between 0.01 and 30, preferably between 0.05 and 10, preferably between 0.1 and 4, preferably between 0.1 and 2, preferably between 0.5 and 2, and advantageously between 0.5 and 1.

[0074] According to the embodiment, the mass ratio between chitosan and crystalline fat is 0.1 or more, preferably 0.2 or more, preferably 0.5 or more, preferably 0.8 or more, preferably 1 or more, preferably 1.5 or more, preferably 2 or more, preferably 5 or more, and preferably 10 or more.

[0075] According to another embodiment, the mass ratio between crystalline fat and chitosan is 0.1 or more, preferably 0.2 or more, preferably 0.5 or more, preferably 0.8 or more, preferably 1 or more, preferably 1.5 or more, preferably 2 or more, preferably 5 or more, and preferably 10 or more.

[0076] Pigmented coloring materials The composition according to the present invention may further comprise at least one pigment-based coloring material. This pigment-based coloring material is selected from powder coloring materials, such as mineral pigments, nacres, and organic pigments.

[0077] "Pigment" means white or colored mineral or organic particles that are insoluble in aqueous solutions and are intended to color a composition and / or the resulting deposit.

[0078] Preferably, the pigment coloring material is selected from mineral pigments, preferably titanium dioxide, iron oxide, zirconium or cerium oxide, zinc or chromium oxide, and mixtures thereof.

[0079] Preferably, the pigment coloring material is present in the composition at a concentration of 0.5% to 70% by mass, preferably 1% to 60% by mass, preferably 1% to 50% by mass, preferably 2% to 40% by mass, preferably 4% to 30% by mass, preferably 5% to 25% by mass, preferably 6% to 20% by mass, and more preferably 8% to 18% by mass relative to the total mass of the composition.

[0080] Mineral pigments According to certain embodiments, the pigments used in accordance with the present invention are selected from mineral pigments.

[0081] "Mineral pigment" means any pigment that conforms to the definition in the chapter on inorganic pigments in Ullmann's Encyclopedia. Among the mineral pigments useful in this invention, in addition to zirconium or cerium oxide, are zinc, iron (black, yellow, or red) or chromium oxide, manganese violet, ultramarine blue, chromium hydrate and iron blue, titanium dioxide, metal powders, such as aluminum powder and copper powder. The following mineral pigments may also be used: TiO2, ZrO2, Nb2O5, CeO2, Ta2O5, Ti3O5, Ti2O3, TiO, and ZrO2 in mixtures with ZnS.

[0082] The size of pigments useful in the context of the present invention is generally greater than 5 nm, preferably greater than 10 nm, preferably greater than 20 nm, preferably greater than 100 nm, and may reach up to 10 μm, preferably 5 nm to 10 μm, preferably 200 nm to 5 μm, and more preferably 300 nm to 1 μm. According to a particular embodiment of the present invention, the pigment, characterized by D

[50] , has a size greater than 100 nm, may reach up to 10 μm, preferably 200 nm to 5 μm, and more preferably 300 nm to 1 μm. The size is measured by static light scattering using a MasterSizer 3000® particle size analyzer, commercially available from Malvern, which can capture the entire particle size distribution over a wide range of particles, which may range from 0.01 μm to 1000 μm. This data is processed based on classical Mie scattering theory, which best fits size distributions from submicrons to several microns and can determine the "effective" diameter of the particles. This theory is described in particular in Chapters 9 and 10 of the book "Light Scattering by Small Particles" by Van de Hulst, HC, Wiley, New York, 1957. D

[50] represents the maximum particle size for 50% by volume.

[0083] In the context of the present invention, the mineral pigment is more specifically iron oxide and / or titanium dioxide. More specifically, examples include titanium dioxide and iron oxide coated with aluminum stearoyl glutamate, which are commercially available from Miyoshi Chemicals, Inc. under the reference name NAI®.

[0084] Pearlescent pigments can also be used as mineral pigments in this invention.

[0085] The term "pearlescent pigment" should be understood to mean iridescent or non-iridescent colored particles of any shape, which are produced in the shells of certain mollusks, or otherwise synthesized, and which exhibit a color effect through optical interference.

[0086] Pearlescent pigments can be selected from pearlescent pigments such as titanium mica coated with iron oxide, titanium mica coated with bismuth oxychloride, titanium mica coated with chromium oxide, titanium mica coated with organic dyes, and bismuth oxychloride-based pearlescent pigments. The pearlescent pigment may also consist of mica particles on which at least two continuous layers of metal oxides and / or organic dyes are superimposed on the surface. Examples of pearlescent pigments include titanium dioxide, iron oxide, natural pigments, or natural mica coated with bismuth oxychloride. Among the pearlescent pigments available on the market are TIMICA®, FLAMENCO®, and DUOCHROME® (mica-based) pearlescent pigments marketed by ENGELHARD, TIMIRON® pearlescent pigment marketed by MERCK, PRESTIGE® mica-based pearlescent pigment marketed by ECKART, and SUNSHINE® synthetic mica-based pearlescent pigment marketed by SUN CHEMICAL.

[0087] The pearlescent agent may more specifically have a yellow, pink, red, bronze, orange, brown, and / or copper color or luster. Examples of pearlescent lusters that can be used in the context of the present invention include, in particular: gold pearlescent lusters marketed by ENGELHARD under the names Brilliant gold 212G (Timica), Gold 222C (Cloisonne), Sparkle Gold (Timica), Gold 4504 (Chromalite), and Monarch Gold 233X (Cloisonne); bronze pearlescent lusters marketed by MERCK under the trademark names Bronze fine (17384) (Colorona) and Bronze (17353) (Colorona), and by ENGELHARD under the trademark name Super bronze (Cloisonne); and orange pearlescent lusters marketed by ENGELHARD under the trademark names Orange 363C (Cloisonne) and Orange MCR 101 (Cloisonne). Orange pearlescent polishes marketed under the trademark name (Cosmica), and by MERCK under the trademark names Passion Orange (Registered Trademark) (Colorona) and Matte Orange (Registered Trademark) (17449) (Microna); in particular, brownish pearlescent polishes marketed by ENGELHARD under the trademark names Nu-Antique Copper 340XB (Registered Trademark) (Cloisonne) and Brown CL4509 (Registered Trademark) (Chromalite); in particular, copper-colored pearlescent polishes marketed by ENGELHARD under the trademark name Copper 340A (Registered Trademark) (Timica); in particular, red-colored pearlescent polishes marketed by MERCK under the trademark name Sienna Fine (Registered Trademark) (17386) (Colorona); in particular, yellow-colored pearlescent polishes marketed by ENGELHARD under the trademark name Yellow (4502) (Registered Trademark) (Chromalite);In particular, a golden-hued, reddish pearlescent polish marketed by ENGELHARD under the trademark name Sunstone G012 (Gemtone); in particular, a pink pearlescent polish marketed by ENGELHARD under the trademark name Tan Opal G005 (Gemtone); in particular, a golden-hued, black pearlescent polish marketed by ENGELHARD under the trademark name Nu-Antique Bronze 240 AB (Timica); in particular, a blue pearlescent polish marketed by MERCK under the trademark name Matte Blue (17433) (Microna); in particular, a silvery-hued, white pearlescent polish marketed by MERCK under the trademark name Xirona Silver (Xirona); and in particular, greenish-gold and pinkish-orange pearlescent polish marketed by MERCK under the trademark name Indian Summer (Xirona), as well as mixtures thereof.

[0088] Among the pigments that can be used in accordance with the present invention, there are also those that have optical effects that differ from simple conventional coloring effects, that is, different from the unified and stabilized effects produced by conventional coloring materials, such as monochromatic pigments.

[0089] For the purposes of this invention, "stabilized" means that there is no effect of color fluctuation depending on the viewing angle or temperature change. For example, this material may be selected from particles having metallic luster, goniochromatic colorants, diffractive pigments, thermochromatic agents, optical brightening agents, and even fibers, particularly interference-type fibers. Naturally, these various materials may be combined to produce the simultaneous manifestation of two effects, or even novel effects according to the present invention.

[0090] The metallic particles that can be used in the present invention are particularly selected from the following: - Particles of at least one metal and / or particles of at least one metal derivative, - Particles comprising a single or multiple organic or inorganic substrate, at least partially coated with at least one metallic luster layer containing at least one metal and / or at least one metal derivative, and - A mixture of the aforementioned particles.

[0091] Among the metals that may be present in the particles, examples include Ag, Au, Cu, Al, Ni, Sn, Mg, Cr, Mo, Ti, Zr, Pt, Va, Rb, W, Zn, Ge, Te, Se, and mixtures or alloys thereof. Ag, Au, Cu, Al, Zn, Ni, Mo, Cr, and mixtures or alloys thereof (e.g., bronze and brass) are preferred metals.

[0092] The term metal derivative refers to compounds derived from metals, particularly oxides, fluorides, chlorides, and sulfides.

[0093] Examples of these particles include aluminum particles, for example, those marketed by SIBERLINE under the trademark name STARBRITE 1200 EAC® and by ECKART under the trademark name METALURE®.

[0094] Other examples include copper metal powder or alloy mixture metal powder, such as reference number 2844, commercially available from RADIUM BRONZE; metal pigments, such as aluminum or bronze, such as those commercially available from ECKART under the trademark name ROTOSAFE 700®; silica-coated aluminum particles, commercially available from ECKART under the trademark name VISIONAIRE BRIGHT SILVER®; and metal alloy particles, such as silica-coated bronze (an alloy of copper and zinc), commercially available from Eckart under the trademark name Visionaire Bright Natural Gold®.

[0095] The particles under consideration may also be particles comprising a glass substrate, such as those commercially available from Nippon Sheet Glass Co., Ltd. under the trademark name MICROGLASS METASHINE®.

[0096] The goniochromatic colorant can be selected from, for example, multilayer interference structure colorants and liquid crystal colorants.

[0097] Examples of symmetrical multilayer interference structures that can be used in compositions prepared according to the present invention include, for example, the following structures: Al / SiO2 / Al / SiO2 / Al, pigments having this structure are commercially available from DuPont de Nemours; Cr / MgF2 / Al / MgF2 / Cr, pigments having this structure are commercially available from Flex under the trademark name Chromaflair®; MoS2 / SiO2 / Al / SiO2 / MoS2; Fe2O3 / SiO2 / Al / SiO2 / Fe2O3 and Fe2O3 / SiO2 / Fe2O3 / SiO2 / Fe2O3, pigments having these structures are commercially available from BASF under the trademark name SIPOPEARL®; M Pigments with the following structures are commercially available from MERCK (Darmstadt) under the trademark name XIRONA®: oS2 / SiO2 / mica oxide / SiO2 / MoS2;Fe2O3 / SiO2 / mica oxide / SiO2 / Fe2O3;TiO2 / SiO2 / TiO2 and TiO2 / Al2O3 / TiO2;SnO / TiO2 / SiO2 / TiO2 / TiO2 / SnO;Fe2O3 / SiO2 / Fe2O3;SnO / mica / TiO2 / SiO2 / TiO2 / mica / SnO. For example, these pigments may include silica / titanium dioxide / tin oxide pigments marketed by MERCK under the name XIRONA MAGIC®, silica / brown iron oxide pigments marketed by MERCK under the name XIRONA INDIAN SUMMER®, and silica / titanium dioxide / mica / tin oxide pigments marketed by MERCK under the name XIRONA CARIBBEAN BLUE®. INFINITE COLORS pigments manufactured by Shiseido Co., Ltd. can also be cited. Various effects can be obtained depending on the thickness and properties of the layers. Therefore, using the structure Fe2O3 / SiO2 / Al / SiO2 / Fe2O3, the color changes from greenish-gold to reddish-gray in the SiO2 layer at 320-350 nm, from red to gold in the SiO2 layer at 380-400 nm, from violet to green in the SiO2 layer at 410-420 nm, and from copper to red in the SiO2 layer at 430-440 nm.

[0098] An example of a pigment having a polymer multilayer structure is the one sold by 3M under the trademark name COLOR GLITTER®.

[0099] Examples of liquid crystal goniochromatic particles that can be used include those sold by CHENIX and those marketed by WACKER under the trademark name HELICONE® HC.

[0100] Hydrophobic coating pigments According to certain embodiments of the present invention, the composition comprises at least one pigment coated with at least one lipophilic or hydrophobic compound, which is described in particular below.

[0101] This type of pigment is particularly advantageous insofar as it can be considered abundant when used in combination with a large amount of water. Furthermore, because these pigments are treated with hydrophobic compounds, they exhibit a dominant affinity for oily gelling phases, which can then support the pigments.

[0102] Naturally, the composition according to the present invention may also contain uncoated pigments.

[0103] The coating may also contain at least one additional non-lipophilic compound.

[0104] According to the present invention, the coating of a pigment according to the present invention generally refers to a full or partial surface treatment of the pigment, which is performed by the absorption, adsorption, or grafting of a surface agent onto the pigment.

[0105] Surface-treated pigments can be prepared using chemical, electronic, mechanochemical, or mechanical surface treatment techniques well known to those skilled in the art. Commercially available products may also be used.

[0106] The surface agent may be absorbed, adsorbed, or grafted onto the pigment by solvent evaporation, chemical reaction, or covalent bond formation.

[0107] In the modified form, the surface treatment consists of a pigment coating.

[0108] The coating may amount to 0.1% to 20% by mass, particularly 0.5% to 5% by mass, of the total mass of the coated pigment.

[0109] Coating can be performed, for example, by adsorbing a liquid surface agent onto the surface of solid particles, which is simply done by optionally heating and stirring the particles and the surface agent together, and then incorporating the particles into other components of a makeup or care composition.

[0110] The coating can be achieved, for example, by a chemical reaction between the surface agent and the surface of solid pigment particles, and by the formation of covalent bonds between the surface agent and the particles. This method is described in particular in U.S. Patent No. 4,578,266.

[0111] Chemical surface treatment may consist of the steps of diluting a surface agent in a volatile solvent, dispersing a pigment in this mixture, and then slowly evaporating the volatile solvent so that the surface agent adheres to the surface of the pigment.

[0112] Lipophilic or hydrophobic treatment agents If the pigment includes an oil-lipid or hydrophobic coating, the latter is preferably present in the oily phase of the composition according to the present invention.

[0113] According to certain embodiments of the present invention, the pigment may be coated with at least one compound selected from silicone surfactants, fluorinated surfactants, fluorosilicone surfactants, metallic soaps, N-acyl amino acids or their salts, lecithin and its derivatives, isopropyltriisostearyl titanate, isostearyl sebacate, plant or animal natural waxes, polar synthetic waxes, fatty acid esters, phospholipids, and mixtures thereof, in accordance with the present invention.

[0114] Silicone surface agent According to certain embodiments, the pigment may be entirely or partially surface-treated with a silicone compound.

[0115] The silicone surface agent may be selected from organopolysiloxanes, silane derivatives, silicone-acrylate copolymers, silicone resins, and mixtures thereof.

[0116] Organopolysiloxane compounds refer to compounds having a structure that alternately contains silicon atoms and oxygen atoms, and also contains organic groups bonded to silicon atoms.

[0117] Non-elastomer organopolysiloxanes Examples of non-elastomer organopolysiloxanes include polydimethylsiloxane, polymethylhydrogensiloxane, and polyalkoxydimethylsiloxane.

[0118] Alkoxy groups can be represented by an RO- group, where R represents methyl, ethyl, propyl, butyl, or octyl, 2-phenylethyl, 2-phenylpropyl, or 3,3,3-trifluoropropyl, an aryl group such as phenyl, tolyl, xylyl, or a substituted aryl group such as phenylethyl.

[0119] One method for surface-treating a pigment using polymethylhydrogen siloxane consists of the steps of dispersing the pigment in an organic solvent and then adding a silicone compound. By heating the mixture, a covalent bond is formed between the silicone compound and the surface of the pigment.

[0120] According to a preferred embodiment, the silicone surface agent may be a non-elastomer organopolysiloxane, particularly selected from polydimethylsiloxanes.

[0121] Alkylsilanes and alkoxysilanes Silanes containing alkoxy functional groups are described in particular in Witucki, "A silane primer, Chemistry and applications of alkoxysilanes," Journal of Coatings Technology, 65, 822, pp. 57-60, 1993.

[0122] Alkoxysilanes, such as alkyltriethoxysilanes and alkyltrimethoxysilanes sold under the reference names Milket A-137® (OSI Specialties) and Prosil 9202® (PCR), can be used for coating pigments.

[0123] Alkyl polysiloxanes having reactive end groups, such as alkoxy, hydroxyl, halogen, amino, or imino, are described in Japanese Patent Application Publication No. 07-196946. These are also suitable for treating pigments.

[0124] Silicone acrylate polymer Grafted silicone acrylic polymers having a silicone backbone, as described in U.S. Patent No. 5,725,882, U.S. Patent No. 5,209,924, U.S. Patent No. 4,972,037, U.S. Patent No. 4,981,903, U.S. Patent No. 4,981,902, U.S. Patent No. 5,468,477, and patents of U.S. Patent No. 5,219,560 and European Patent No. 0388582, may be used.

[0125] Further silicone acrylate polymers have, in their structure, units conforming to the following formula (II):

[0126] [Chemical Formula]

[0127] (wherein the G1 groups are the same or different and represent hydrogen, or a C1-C 10 alkyl group, or a phenyl group; the G2 groups are the same or different and represent a C1-C 10 alkylene group; G3 represents a polymer residue resulting from the (single) polymerization of at least one anionic monomer having ethylenic unsaturation; G4 represents a polymer residue resulting from the (single) polymerization of at least one hydrophobic monomer having ethylenic unsaturation; m and n are equal to 0 or 1; a is an integer from 0 to 50; b may be an integer between 10 and 350; c is an integer from 0 to 50, provided that one of the parameters a and c is different from 0) and may be a silicone polymer containing the same.

[0128] Preferably, the units having the above formula (I) have at least one, more preferably all, of the following characteristics: - The G1 group represents an alkyl group, preferably a methyl group, - n is different from 0, and the G2 group represents a C1-C3 divalent group, preferably a propylene group, - G3 represents a polymer group resulting from the (single) polymerization of at least one monomer of the carboxylic acid type having ethylenic unsaturation, preferably acrylic acid and / or methacrylic acid, - G4 is alkyl (C1~C 10 ) Represents a polymer group resulting from the (single) polymerization of at least one monomer of the (meth)acrylate type, preferably isobutyl or methyl (meth)acrylate type.

[0129] An example of a silicone polymer conforming to formula (I) is, in particular, polydimethylsiloxane (PDMS), which has mixed polymer units of poly(meth)acrylic acid type and methyl poly(meth)acrylate type grafted thereon via thiopropylene type linkage chains.

[0130] Further examples of silicone polymers conforming to formula (I) include polydimethylsiloxane (PDMS), in which isobutyl poly(meth)acrylate-type polymer units are grafted via thiopropylene-type linking chains.

[0131] Silicone resin The silicone surface agent may be selected from silicone resins such as those defined above.

[0132] Fluorinated surface agent The pigment may be entirely or partially surface-treated with a fluorinated compound.

[0133] The fluorinated surface agent may be selected from perfluoroalkyl phosphates, perfluoropolyethers, polytetrafluoropolyethylene (PTFE), perfluoroalkanes, perfluoroalkylsilazanes, hexafluoropropylene polyoxides, and polyorganosiloxanes containing perfluoroalkylperfluoropolyether groups.

[0134] A perfluoroalkyl group is an alkyl group in which all hydrogen atoms are replaced by fluorine atoms.

[0135] Perfluoropolyethers are described in particular in European Patent Application No. 0486135 and are sold by Montefluos under the trademark name Fomblin.

[0136] Perfluoroalkyl phosphates are described in particular in Japanese Patent Application Publication No. 05-86984. Perfluoroalkyl phosphate-diethanolamine, which is commercially available from Asahi Glass Co., Ltd. under the reference name Asahi Guard AG530 (registered trademark), may also be used.

[0137] Examples of perfluoroalkanes include perfluorocycloalkanes, perfluoro(alkylcycloalkanes), perfluoropolycycloalkanes, aromatic perfluorinated hydrocarbons (perfluoroarenes), and hydrocarbon-based organoperfluorinated compounds containing at least one heteroatom.

[0138] Among perfluoroalkanes, examples include the linear alkane series, such as perfluorooctane, perfluorononane, or perfluorodecane.

[0139] Among perfluorocycloalkanes and perfluoro(alkylcycloalkanes), examples include perfluorodecalin, perfluoro(methyldecalin), and perfluoro(C3-C5 alkyl-cyclohexane), such as perfluoro(butylcyclohexane), which are sold by RHODIA under the trademark name FLUTEC PP5 GMP.

[0140] Among perfluoropolycycloalkanes, examples include bicyclo[3.3.1]nonane derivatives, such as perfluorotrimethylbicyclo[3.3.1]nonane, adamantane derivatives, such as perfluorodimethyladamantane, and perfluorinated hydrogenated phenanthrene derivatives, such as tetracosafluoro-tetradecahydrophenanthrene.

[0141] Among perfluoroarenes, perfluorinated naphthalene derivatives, such as perfluoronaphthalene and perfluoromethyl-1-naphthalene, can be mentioned.

[0142] Examples of commercially available reference materials for pigments treated with fluorinated compounds include the following: - Yellow iron oxide / perfluoroalkyl phosphate, sold by Daito Chemical Industries, Ltd. under the reference name PF 5 Yellow 601 (registered trademark), - Red iron oxide / perfluoroalkyl phosphate, sold by Daito Chemical Industries, Ltd. under the reference name PF 5 Red 516L (registered trademark), - Black iron oxide / perfluoroalkyl phosphate, sold by Daito Chemical Industries, Ltd. under the reference name PF 5 Black 100 (registered trademark), - Titanium dioxide / perfluoroalkyl phosphate, sold by Daito Chemical Industries, Ltd. under the reference name PF 5 TiO2CR 50 (registered trademark), - Yellow iron oxide / perfluoropolymethylisopropyl ether, sold by Toshiki under the reference name Iron Oxide Yellow BF-25-3 (registered trademark), - DC Red 7 / perfluoropolymethylisopropyl ether, which is sold by Cardre Inc. under the reference name D&C Red 7 FHC®, and - DC Red 6 / PTFE, sold by Warner-Jenkinson under the reference name T 9506 (registered trademark).

[0143] Fluorosilicone surface agent The pigment may be entirely or partially surface-treated with a fluorosilicone compound.

[0144] The fluorosilicone compound may be selected from perfluoroalkyldimethicone, perfluoroalkylsilane, and perfluoroalkyltrialkoxysilane.

[0145] Examples of perfluoroalkylsilanes include the commercially available products LP-IT (registered trademark) and LP-4T (registered trademark) manufactured by Shin-Etsu Silicone.

[0146] An example of a commercially available reference material for pigments treated with fluorosilicone compounds is titanium dioxide / fluorosilicone, sold by Advanced Dermaceuticals International Inc. under the reference name Fluorosil Titanium Dioxide 100TA®.

[0147] Other lipophilic surface agents Hydrophobic treatment agents may also be selected from the following: (i) Metal soaps, such as aluminum dimyristate and aluminum hydride glutamate salts;

[0148] Examples of metallic soaps include metallic soaps of fatty acids having 12 to 22 carbon atoms, and especially metallic soaps of fatty acids having 12 to 18 carbon atoms.

[0149] The metal in the metal soap may be zinc or magnesium, in particular.

[0150] As metal soaps, zinc laurate, magnesium stearate, magnesium myristate, zinc stearate, and mixtures thereof may be used.

[0151] The hydrophobic treatment agent may also be selected from ii) fatty acids, such as lauric acid, myristic acid, stearic acid, and palmitic acid.

[0152] The hydrophobic treatment agent may also be selected from N-acylated amino acids or salts thereof, which may also contain an acyl group having 8 to 22 carbon atoms, such as 2-ethylhexanoyl, caproyl, lauroyl, myristoyl, palmitoyl, stearoyl, cocoyl group, etc.

[0153] The amino acid may be, for example, lysine, glutamic acid, or alanine.

[0154] The salts of these compounds may be aluminum salts, magnesium salts, calcium salts, zirconium salts, zinc salts, sodium salts, or potassium salts.

[0155] Therefore, according to a particularly preferred embodiment, the N-acylated amino acid derivative may be any of the glutamic acid derivatives and / or salts thereof, more specifically stearoyl glutamic acid, such as aluminum stearoyl glutamate.

[0156] The hydrophobic treatment agent may also be selected from iv) lecithin and its derivatives.

[0157] The hydrophobic treatment agent may also be v) isopropyltriisostearyl titanate.

[0158] Examples of pigments treated with isopropyl titanium triisostearate (ITT) include those sold by KOBO under the trademark reference names BWBO-I2® (Iron oxide CI77499 and isopropyl titanium triisostearate), BWYO-I2® (Iron oxide CI77492 and isopropyl titanium triisostearate), and BWRO-I2® (Iron oxide CI77491 and isopropyl titanium triisostearate).

[0159] The hydrophobic treatment agent may also be vi) isostearyl sebacate.

[0160] The hydrophobic treatment agent may also be selected from vii) natural plant or animal waxes, or polar synthetic waxes.

[0161] The hydrophobic treatment agent may also be selected from viiii) fatty acid esters, particularly jojoba esters.

[0162] The hydrophobic treatment agent may also be selected from ix) phospholipids.

[0163] The waxes mentioned in the compounds above may also be those commonly used in the field of cosmetics, as defined below.

[0164] These may be hydrocarbons, silicones, and / or fluorinated compounds, in particular, optionally containing ester or hydroxyl functional groups. They may also be of natural or synthetic origin.

[0165] Polar waxes are waxes containing compounds that include at least one polar group. Polar groups are well known to those skilled in the art and may consist of, for example, alcohols, esters, and carboxylic acid groups. These polar waxes do not include polyethylene wax, paraffin wax, microcrystalline wax, ozokerite, or Fischer-Tropsch wax.

[0166] In particular, polar waxes exhibit the following behavior: δa > 0 (J / cm²) at 25°C. 3 ) 1 / 2 Preferably, δa > 1 (J / cm 3 ) 1 / 2 It has an average Hansen solubility parameter δa.

[0167]

number

[0168] In the formula, δp and δh are the polarity and specific interaction contributions to the Hansen solubility parameter, respectively.

[0169] Hansen's definition of a solvent in three-dimensional solubility space is described in the paper, *The three dimensional solubility parameters*, J. Paint Technol. 39, 105 (1967) by C.M. Hansen. - δh characterizes the force of specific interactions (e.g., hydrogen bonding, acid / base bonding, donor / receptor binding, etc.), - δp characterizes the Debye interaction force between permanent dipoles and the Kaesom interaction force between induced and permanent dipoles.

[0170] The δp and δh parameters are (J / cm 3 ) 1 / 2 It is represented as follows.

[0171] Polar waxes, in particular, consist of molecules that contain heteroatoms (e.g., O, N, P) in addition to carbon and hydrogen atoms in their chemical structure.

[0172] Non-limiting examples of these polar waxes include, in particular, natural polar waxes such as beeswax, lanolin wax, orange wax, lemon wax, and privet wax (Chinese insect wax), rice bran wax, carnauba wax, candelilla wax, oricury wax, cork fiber wax, sugarcane wax, wood wax (Japan wax), and sumac wax, and montan wax.

[0173] According to certain embodiments, the pigment may be coated with at least one compound selected from silicone surface agents, fluorinated surface agents, N-acylated amino acids or their salts, isopropyltriisostearyl titanate, natural plant or animal waxes, fatty acid esters, and mixtures thereof.

[0174] In a particularly preferred embodiment, the pigment may be coated with any N-acylated amino acids and / or salts thereof, in particular glutamic acid derivatives and / or salts thereof, or fatty acid esters, in particular jojoba esters.

[0175] In a more particularly preferred embodiment, the pigment may be coated with any N-acylated amino acids and / or salts thereof, especially glutamic acid derivatives and / or salts thereof, particularly stearoyl glutamic acid, such as aluminum stearoyl glutamate.

[0176] More specifically, examples of coated pigments according to the present invention include titanium dioxide and iron oxide coated with aluminum stearoyl glutamate, which are commercially available from Miyoshi Chemicals, Inc. under the reference name NAI.

[0177] Pigments not coated with hydrophobic compounds As mentioned above, the composition may further contain pigments that are not coated with lipophilic or hydrophobic compounds.

[0178] These other pigments may or may not be coated with a hydrophilic compound.

[0179] These pigments may, in particular, be mineral pigments as defined above.

[0180] These pigments may also be organic pigments.

[0181] Organic pigments mean any pigment that conforms to the definition in the chapter on organic pigments in Ullmann's Encyclopedia. Organic pigments may be selected in particular from nitroso, nitro, azo, xanthene, quinoline, anthraquinone, phthalocyanine, metal complex type, isoindolinone, isoindoline, quinacridone, perinone, perylene, diketopyrrolopyrrole, thioindigo, dioxazine, triphenylmethane, and quinophthalone compounds.

[0182] Organic pigments include, for example, carmine, carbon black, aniline black, melanin, azo yellow, quinacridone, phthalocyanine blue, sorghum red, blue pigments systematized into color indices with reference numbers CI42090, 69800, 69825, 73000, 74100, 74160, yellow pigments systematized into color indices with reference numbers CI11680, 11710, 15985, 19140, 20040, 21100, 21108, 47000, 47005, green pigments systematized into color indices with reference numbers CI61565, 61570, 74260, and reference number CI11725. The pigments may be selected from orange pigments systematized into color indices at 15510, 45370, and 71105; red pigments systematized into color indices at reference numbers CI12085, 12120, 12370, 12420, 12490, 14700, 15525, 15580, 15620, 15630, 15800, 15850, 15865, 15880, 17200, 26100, 45380, 45410, 58000, 73360, 73915, and 75470; and pigments obtained by oxidative polymerization of indole derivatives or phenol derivatives as described in French Patent No. 2679771.

[0183] The pigments may also be in the form of composite pigments as described in European Patent No. 1184426. These composite pigments may, in particular, consist of particles comprising an inorganic nucleus at least partially coated with an organic pigment and at least one binder for fixing the organic pigment to the nucleus.

[0184] Pigments may also be lacquers. The term lacquer refers to insoluble dyes adsorbed onto insoluble particles, and the resulting aggregate remains insoluble during use.

[0185] Inorganic substrates that adsorb dyes include, for example, alumina, silica, borosilicates, calcium and sodium, or calcium aluminum borosilicates, and aluminum.

[0186] Among organic dyes, cochineal carmine can be mentioned. Mention may also be made of products known by the following names: D&C Red 21 (CI 45 380), D&C Orange 5 (CI 45 370), D&C Red 27 (CI 45 410), D&C Orange 10 (CI 45 425), D&C Red 3 (CI 45 430), D&C Red 4 (CI 15). 510), D&C Red 33(CI 17 200), D&C Yellow 5(CI 19 140), D&C Yellow 6(CI 15 985), D&C Green(CI 61 570), D&C Yellow 1 O(CI 77 002), D&C Green 3(CI 42 053), D&C Blue 1(CI 42 090).

[0187] As an example of lacquer, we can cite the product known as D&C Red 7 (CI 15 850:1).

[0188] Properties of hydrophilic coatings As mentioned above, these other pigments may be coated with a hydrophilic coating.

[0189] The hydrophilic compound used for surface-treating the pigment to optimize its dispersion in the gelled aqueous phase is more specifically selected from biopolymers, carbohydrates, polysaccharides, polyacrylates, or polyethylene glycol derivatives.

[0190] Examples of biomacromolecules include polymers based on carbohydrate monomers.

[0191] More specifically, these include biosaccharide gums, chitosan and its derivatives, such as butoxychitosan, carboxymethylchitosan, carboxybutylchitosan, chitosan gluconate, chitosan adipate, chitosan glycolate, chitosan lactate, etc.; chitin and its derivatives, such as carboxymethylchitin, chitin glycolate; cellulose and its derivatives, such as cellulose acetate; microcrystalline cellulose; distarch phosphate; sodium hyaluronate; soluble proteoglycans; galactoarabinan; glycosaminoglycans; glycogen; sclerotium gum; dextran; starch and its derivatives; and mixtures thereof.

[0192] As an example of carbohydrates, in particular, the general formula: C x (H2O) y (In the formula, x and y can be in the range of 1 to 1,000,000) Examples include polyhydroxyaldehydes or polyhydroxyketones.

[0193] Carbohydrates can be monosaccharides, disaccharides, or polysaccharides.

[0194] Examples of carbohydrates include, in particular, amylodextrin, beta-glucan, cyclodextrin, modified corn starch, glycogen, hyaluronic acid, hydroxypropyl cyclodextrin, lactose, maltitol, guanosine, glyceryl starch, wheat (Triticum Vulgare) starch, trehalose, sucrose and its derivatives, raffinose, and chondroitidine sulfate sodium.

[0195] C1~C 20 Alkylene glycol or C1-C 20 Alkylene glycol ethers can also be used alone or in tri-C1-C1 20 -It can be used as a surface treatment agent in combination with alkylsilanes.

[0196] Examples of pigments surface-treated with PEG alkyl ether alkoxysilane include pigments treated with PEG-8 methyl ether triethoxysilane, which are commercially available from KOBO under the name SW pigments.

[0197] Silicones such as dimethicone having hydrophilic groups, also known as dimethicone copolyol or alkyl dimethicone copolyol, can also be suitable as surface treatment agents for the present invention. In particular, such dimethicone may have C1-C1 repeating units such as ethylene oxide or propylene oxide. 20 It may contain alkylene oxides.

[0198] As an example, one can cite the PEG-12-dimethicone-treated pigments that are commercially available from SENSIENT CORPORATION under the trademark name LCW AQ(registered trademark) Pigment.

[0199] The amounts of pigments coated with at least one hydrophilic compound, and / or uncoated pigments, are determined in particular by the ultimate purpose of the cosmetic composition under consideration, and their adjustment is clearly within the scope of the compositional compounder's expertise.

[0200] According to a particular embodiment, the composition comprises at least one pigment selected from titanium dioxide and / or iron oxides, particularly those coated with N-acylated amino acids and / or salts thereof, particularly those coated with glutamic acid derivatives and / or salts thereof, particularly those coated with stearoyl glutamic acid, such as aluminum stearoyl glutamate.

[0201] According to a particular embodiment, the composition according to the present invention comprises at least one coated pigment or an uncoated pigment, preferably at least one coated pigment.

[0202] Alpha hydroxy acids (AHAs) The composition according to the present invention may further contain at least one alpha hydroxy acid.

[0203] According to the present invention, an alpha hydroxy acid refers to a carboxylic acid having at least one hydroxyl functional group located at the alpha position of the carboxylic acid (the carbon adjacent to the carboxylic acid functional group). This acid may be present in the final composition, in particular, in the form of a free acid and / or in the form of an associated salt (especially a salt with an organic base or alkali), depending on the final pH given to the composition.

[0204] Alpha-hydroxy acids (AHAs) are selected from, for example, lactic acid, citric acid, methyllactic acid, glucuronic acid, glycolic acid, pyruvate, 2-hydroxybutanoic acid, 2-hydroxypentanoic acid, 2-hydroxyhexanoic acid, 2-hydroxyheptanoic acid, 2-hydroxyoctanoic acid, 2-hydroxynonanoic acid, 2-hydroxydecanoic acid, 2-hydroxyundecanoic acid, 2-hydroxydodecanoic acid, 2-hydroxytetradecanoic acid, 2-hydroxyhexadecanoic acid, 2-hydroxyoctadecanoic acid, 2-hydroxytetracosanoic acid, 2-hydroxyeicosanoic acid; mandelic acid; phenyllactic acid; gluconic acid; galacturonic acid; aloylitic acid; ribonic acid; tartaric acid; tartaric acid; malic acid; fumaric acid; salts thereof and mixtures thereof.

[0205] According to a preferred embodiment, the alpha hydroxy acid is selected from lactic acid, citric acid, malic acid, tartaric acid, and salts thereof. More specifically, the alpha hydroxy acid is selected from lactic acid, citric acid, salts thereof, and mixtures thereof. Advantageously, the alpha hydroxy acid is either lactic acid or a salt thereof.

[0206] Alpha hydroxy acids may be present in amounts ranging from 0.001 to 10% by mass, 0.005 to 5% by mass, preferably 0.01 to 3% by mass, relative to the total mass of the composition.

[0207] surfactants The composition may also contain at least one surfactant, preferably a nonionic, cationic, or anionic surfactant.

[0208] Preferably, the nonionic surfactant may be selected from nonionic surfactants known from the prior art, particularly from esters of fatty acids and polyglycerols, sugar esters, poloxamers, polysorbates, and mixtures thereof.

[0209] Preferably, the nonionic surfactant is selected from esters of fatty acids and polyglycerols, and sugar esters, and more preferably from esters of fatty acids and polyglycerols.

[0210] If present, the nonionic surfactant is present at a concentration between 0.01% and 15% by mass, preferably between 0.05% and 10% by mass, preferably between 0.1% and 5% by mass, and preferably between 0.1% and 2% by mass, relative to the total mass of the composition.

[0211] Physiologically acceptable aqueous media The composition according to the present invention comprises a physiologically acceptable aqueous medium.

[0212] The aforementioned medium includes water in particular.

[0213] The water used may be sterile desalinated water and / or floral water, such as rose water, cornflower water, chamomile water, or linden water, and / or spring water or natural mineral water, such as Vittel water, Lucas water, or La Roche Posay water.

[0214] The composition preferably contains at least 5% by mass, preferably at least 10% by mass, preferably at least 20% by mass, preferably at least 25% by mass, preferably at least 30% by mass, preferably at least 35% by mass, preferably at least 40% by mass, preferably at least 50% by mass, more preferably at least 60% by mass, even more preferably at least 70% by mass, and advantageously at least 80% by mass of water, based on the total mass of the composition.

[0215] The composition preferably contains 5% to 95% by mass, more preferably 10% to 85% by mass, even more preferably 20% to 80% by mass, even more preferably 25% to 75% by mass, even more preferably 28% to 70% by mass, even more preferably 30% to 65% by mass, and even more preferably 35% to 60% by mass, based on the total mass of the composition.

[0216] The aqueous phase may also contain at least one organic solvent that is miscible with water at 25°C.

[0217] Preferably, the water-miscible organic solvent is selected from alcohols, polyols, and mixtures thereof.

[0218] Among alcohols, C1~C 10 More preferably, C1-C5 alcohols can be used, such as ethanol, isopropanol, propanol, and butanol.

[0219] The polyol is preferably selected from polyols having 2 to 20 carbon atoms, preferably 2 to 6 carbon atoms, such as glycerol, diglycerol, propylene glycol, isoprene glycol, dipropylene glycol, butylene glycol, hexylene glycol, 1,2-propanediol, 1,3-propanediol, pentylene glycol, polyethylene glycol having 2 to 200 ethylene oxide units, and mixtures thereof.

[0220] Advantageously, the composition according to the present invention contains ethanol.

[0221] The composition may contain 0.1% to 25% by mass, preferably 0.5% to 20% by mass, more preferably 1% to 15% by mass, even more preferably 1.5% to 10% by mass, and advantageously 2% to 5% by mass, of the total mass of the composition, a water-miscible organic solvent.

[0222] Preferably, if present, the mass ratio between the polyol and chitosan (i.e., the polyol:chitosan mass ratio) is between 0.1 and 6. Preferably, the mass ratio is between 0.1 and 5, preferably between 0.2 and 5, preferably between 0.2 and 4.5, and preferably between 0.5 and 2.

[0223] oily phase The compositions according to the present invention also preferably include at least one oily phase. If the compositions used in accordance with the present invention include an oily phase, this oily phase preferably contains at least one oil, particularly a cosmetic oil. The oily phase may further contain other fats.

[0224] "Oil" refers to oil that is 25°C and atmospheric pressure (1.013 × 10⁻⁶). 5 (Pa) refers to a liquid, non-aqueous compound that is immiscible with water.

[0225] "Immucousity" means that a mixture of equal parts water and oil, after stirring, does not produce a stable solution consisting of only one phase under the aforementioned temperature and pressure conditions. Observations are made visually, or using a phase-contrast microscope if necessary, on 100 g of the mixture obtained after sufficient Rayneri stirring (200-1000 rpm for informational purposes) to produce vortices in the mixture. The resulting mixture is allowed to stand in a sealed bottle at room temperature for 24 hours before observation.

[0226] Examples of oils that can be used in the composition according to the present invention include: - Hydrocarbon oils of animal origin, such as perhydrosqualene, - Plant-derived hydrocarbon oils, for example, liquid fatty acid triglycerides having 4 to 10 carbon atoms, for example, heptanoic acid or octanoic acid triglycerides, or for example, sunflower oil, corn oil, soybean oil, pumpkin oil, grape seed oil, sesame oil, hazelnut oil, apricot oil, macadamia oil, arara oil, sunflower oil, castor oil, avocado oil, caprylic / capric acid triglycerides, for example, those sold by Stearineries Dubois, or those sold by Dynamit Nobel under the trademark names Miglyol "810", "812", and "818", jojoba oil, shea butter oil, - Esters and synthetic esters, especially fatty acid esters, for example oils having formulas R1COOR2 and R1OR2 (wherein R1 is a fatty acid residue having 8 to 29 carbon atoms, and R2 is a branched or unbranched hydrocarbon chain containing 3 to 30 carbon atoms), for example, percellin oil, isononyl isononanoate, isopropyl myristate, ethyl-2-hexyl palmitate, octyl-2-dodecyl stearate, octyl-2-dodecyl erucate, isostearyl isostearate, etc.; hydroxylated esters, For example, isostearyl lactate, octyl hydroxystearate, octyldodecyl hydroxystearate, diisostearyl maleate, triisocetyl citrate; heptanoates, octanates, and decanoates of fatty alcohols; polyol esters, for example, propylene glycol dioctanoate, neopentyl glycol diheptanoate, and diethylene glycol diisononanoate; and pentaerythritol esters, for example, pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate, or dipentaerythrityl pentaisononanoate. - Linear or branched hydrocarbons of mineral or synthetic origin, such as paraffin oil and its derivatives, whether volatile or not; branched hydrocarbon oils having 10 to 20 carbon atoms, such as isohexadecane, isododecane, isoparaffin and mixtures thereof; petroleum jelly; polydecene; polyisobutene; hydrogenated polyisobutene, such as Parleam® marketed by NIPPON OIL FATS, PANALANE H-300 E marketed by AMOCO, VISEAL 20000 marketed by SYNTEAL, REWOPAL PIB 1000 marketed by WITCO, or PARLEAM LITE marketed by NOF Corporation; branched alkanes alone or in mixtures, such as a mixture of undecane and tridecane marketed by BASF under the name Cetiol UT; or alkanes of plant origin, especially those derived from coconut, such as VEGELIGHT marketed by BIOSYNTHIS. A mixture of C13-C15 alkanes, sold under the name SILK, or by AMYRIS under the name NEOSSANCE HEMISQUALANE CN. - Partially fluorinated hydrocarbons and / or silicone oils, for example, those described in Japanese Patent Publication No. 2-295912, or - These mixtures.

[0227] The composition may contain an oily phase in an amount of 5% to 90% by mass, preferably 7% to 80% by mass, more preferably 10% to 60% by mass, and advantageously 15% to 40% by mass, based on the total mass of the composition.

[0228] In a preferred embodiment, the oily phase contains at least one non-volatile oil, and its mass concentration is 50% or less, preferably 35% or less, preferably 20% or less, preferably 15% or less, preferably 10% or less, and preferably 7% or less, based on the total mass of the composition. Preferably, the mass ratio between the oily phase and crystalline fat is between 0.1 and 10, preferably between 0.1 and 5, preferably between 0.3 and 3, and preferably between 0.5 and 2.

[0229] "Non-volatile oil" refers to a substance that remains on keratinous material for at least several hours at room temperature and atmospheric pressure, and is particularly 10 -3 This refers to oil with a vapor pressure of less than mmHg (0.13 Pa).

[0230] The oil may be selected from the oils listed above.

[0231] According to embodiments, the composition according to the present invention further comprises a volatile oil and / or a volatile alcohol.

[0232] For the purposes of this invention, "volatile oil" refers to any oil that can evaporate at room temperature and atmospheric pressure upon contact with the skin. The volatile oil according to this invention is a volatile cosmetic oil that is liquid at room temperature and has a vapor pressure different from zero at room temperature and atmospheric pressure, particularly in the range of 0.13 Pa to 40,000 Pa (0.001 to 300 mmHg), preferably in the range of 1.3 Pa to 1300 Pa (0.01 to 10 mmHg).

[0233] The volatile oil may be selected from hydrocarbon volatile oils, silicone volatile oils, fluorinated volatile oils, and mixtures thereof, preferably from hydrocarbon volatile oils.

[0234] The volatile hydrocarbon oil may be selected from hydrocarbon oils having 8 to 16 carbon atoms, particularly branched C8-C16 alkanes, such as petroleum-based C8-C16 isoalkanes (also called isoparaffins), such as isododecane (also called 2,2,4,4,6-pentamethylheptane), isodecane, isohexadecane, and oils sold under the trademark names, for example, Isopar® or Permethyl®.

[0235] In particular, the compositions according to the present invention may contain isododecane, cyclopentasiloxane, isohexadecane, or mixtures thereof.

[0236] The composition according to the present invention may contain a volatile oil at a concentration in the range of 1 to 60% by mass, preferably 5 to 50% by mass, preferably 10 to 40% by mass, and more preferably 15 to 25% by mass, based on the total mass of the composition.

[0237] Volatile alcohols refer to C1-C4 alcohols, such as ethanol, isopropanol, butanol, and n-propanol.

[0238] The composition according to the present invention may contain volatile alcohols in an amount of 0.1% to 25% by mass, preferably 0.5% to 20% by mass, more preferably 1% to 15% by mass, even more preferably 1.5% to 10% by mass, and advantageously 2% to 5% by mass, based on the total mass of the composition.

[0239] pH of the composition The composition according to the present invention has a pH of 7 or less, preferably 6.5 or less, and preferably 6.3 or less. Advantageously, the pH of the composition is between 3 and 6.3, preferably between 4 and 6.3.

[0240] Preferably, the cosmetic composition according to the present invention comprises at least one base and / or at least one acid. The bases and acids according to the present invention are known and conventionally used in the field of cosmetics.

[0241] Bases and / or acids are used, in particular, to adjust the final pH of the composition to between 3 and 6.3.

[0242] The acid may be, for example, citric acid.

[0243] The base may be selected from, for example, mineral bases such as alkali metal hydroxides, sodium hydroxide, potassium hydroxide, etc.

[0244] Preferably, the base of the composition is an alkali metal hydroxide, preferably sodium hydroxide or potassium hydroxide.

[0245] The composition according to the invention may contain at least one base at an active substance concentration in the range of 0.5% to 10% by weight, particularly 1% to 5% by weight, preferably 1% to 4% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.

[0246] The composition according to the invention can be obtained by a person skilled in the art by conventional methods.

[0247] It should be understood that the expressions "between... and...", "in the range of... to...", and "varying from... to..." include the boundary values unless otherwise specified.

[0248] Specific but non-limiting examples illustrating the present invention are provided herein. <00​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​Using a Rayneri dissociative apparatus, chitosan is added by pouring it onto water. Lactic acid is added, and the mixture is left to stand at 300 rpm for 5 minutes.

[0251] Simultaneously, in the final beaker, isododecane, caprylic / capric triglyceride, and polyglyceryl-6 polyricinoleate are mixed at 250 rpm using a Rayneri dissociative apparatus.

[0252] Add the crystalline fat and stir vigorously at 1000 rpm for 5 minutes.

[0253] By increasing the rotation speed to 500 rpm, the aqueous phase is slowly added to the final beaker.

[0254] Add the dry pigment paste, followed by the alcohol.

[0255] Direct emulsion aqueous phase - If chitosan is present: - Disperse chitosan in water using a Rayneri dissociative apparatus. - Add lactic acid and stir for 30 minutes, adjusting the speed to generate the smallest possible vortex. - Add polyglyceryl-10 laurate and alcohol, and stir for 10 minutes. - Add the pigment and stir for 10 minutes.

[0256] - If chitosan is not present: - Using a Rayneri dissociative apparatus, disperse polyglyceryl-10 laurate in water, adjusting the speed to generate the smallest possible vortex. - Add alcohol. - Add the pigment and stir for 10 minutes.

[0257] oily phase - To obtain a homogeneous mixture, the oily phase is heated to 60°C on a magnetic hot plate and then cooled to room temperature.

[0258] emulsification Using a Rayneri peptizing device, add the oil phase to the aqueous phase and stir for 10 minutes, adjusting the speed so that the smallest vortex is generated.

[0259] Composition C1 * and C2 are inverse emulsions, and compositions C3 * and C4 are direct emulsions.

[0260] The amounts of each component are expressed as mass ratios relative to the total mass of the composition.

[0261] [Table 1]

[0262] (Example 2) Compositions C2 and C4 according to the present invention, and comparative compositions C1 * and C3 * Evaluation C1 of Example 1 * , C2, C3 * and the resistance of C4 to drying, water, and oil were evaluated in vitro according to the following protocol.

[0263] Protocol for spreading the composition on a membrane Each composition is spread using an Elcometer 4340 Applicator, which allows for adjustment of the application speed and length. The bench is equipped with a suction system connected to a pump, so that the substrate on which the product is spread does not move. A contrast chart with a black background and an unvarnished white background is used (one Biko chart, uncoated N2A, code 2831). The spreading thickness can be adjusted using a square spreading device placed on the substrate, which spreads by leveling when the platform is powered on. Through each section of the spreading device, the product is spread to various thicknesses ranging from 25 μm to 200 μm. The thickness to be selected is 25 μm to approximate the film thickness in vivo. During spreading, a load of 960 g is applied to the spreading device. The spreading speed is set to 1 inch / second, i.e., 2.54 cm / second. The film is dried at room temperature and ambient humidity (50% RH) for 24 hours.

[0264] Protocol for measuring contrast ratio to demonstrate coverage Color measurements are performed using a Konica Minolta CM-700d spectrophotometer. Contact measurement ensures complete elimination of light contamination.

[0265] Selected settings: Aperture diameter: 8mm; Uncertainty: 0.04; SCI / SCE measurement; Geometric condition d / 8°

[0266] By measuring the color under both backgrounds (black background FN and white background FB), the "contrast ratio" (CR%), i.e., YFN / YFB × 100 (where YFN and YFB are the luminance values ​​measured on the black and white backgrounds, respectively), can be calculated to characterize the coverage of the foundation. This value increases with the coverage of the foundation.

[0267] Test protocols for resistance to drying, water, and oil. The water abrasion resistance test is performed by colorimetric measurement of the dry film before and after abrasion. Abrasion is performed by attaching one cloth wipe (Chicopee Veraclean Polish Plus), moistened if necessary (with 400 μL of water or oil on the cloth wipe), to a 25 μm stretching device section. A load of 960 g is applied to the stretching device during abrasion. The bench speed is set to 2.54 cm / sec.

[0268] The color before and after the above-mentioned wear is measured using spectrophotometric measurement.

[0269] To evaluate abrasion resistance, the "contrast ratio" is measured before friction (CR dry deposit, %) and after wear (CR friction dry deposit, %). The percentage decrease in morphology ([CR friction dry deposit - CR dry deposit] / CR dry deposit) × 100 quantifies the decrease in coverage strength and indicates the film's resistance to friction; the smaller the decrease, the higher the film's resistance to friction.

[0270] Each CR value represents the average of 3 to 6 measurements.

[0271] The results obtained are summarized in the table below.

[0272] [Table 2]

[0273] [Table 3]

[0274] These results demonstrate the following: - By adding crystalline fat to a direct emulsion containing 2% chitosan, the oil resistance of the coverage can be significantly enhanced, and - By adding crystalline fats to a reverse emulsion containing 2% chitosan, the drying resistance and water resistance of the coverage can be significantly enhanced.

[0275] (Example 3) Stability / viscosity evaluation The three compositions (direct emulsions) listed in the table below were prepared according to the protocol of Example 1.

[0276] [Table 4]

[0277] Protocol for evaluating viscosity Viscosity measurements were performed using a TA Instruments DHR2 rheometer with a sandblasted stator and a sandblasted flat spindle, at a gap of 1 mm and an experimental temperature of 25°C. The viscosity result (Pa.s) was 0.1s. -1 The shear test will be conducted to obtain comparable and systematic data.

[0278] In these tests, where the total mass between crystalline fats and / or chitosan was equal in concentration, the following was observed: - Composition C5 using only crystalline fats * It separates immediately. - Composition C7 using only chitosan * The viscosity increases uncontrollably, and - Only composition C6 according to the present invention, which contains both crystalline fat and chitosan, is suitable for formulation and has a controlled and acceptable viscosity.

Claims

1. Cosmetic compositions, particularly for makeup and / or care of the skin and / or lips and / or skin appendages, comprising a physiologically acceptable aqueous medium, a) Natural chitosan having a molecular weight strictly greater than 3000 daltons, in an amount of 0.01 to 15% by mass relative to the total mass of the composition. b) at least one type of crystalline fat, and c) At least one pigmented coloring material Includes, A composition exhibiting a pH of 6.5 or less.

2. The composition according to claim 1, wherein the natural chitosan has a molecular weight of 10 kDa or more, preferably 15 kDa or more, preferably 20 kDa or more, and preferably the natural chitosan has a molecular weight between 10 kDa and 2 MDa, preferably between 15 kDa and 1.5 MDa, preferably between 20 kDa and 300 kDa, and preferably between 20 kDa and 200 kDa.

3. The composition according to claim 1 or 2, wherein the degree of acetylation of the natural chitosan is 80% or less, preferably 70% or less, preferably 60% or less, preferably 50% or less, preferably 35% or less, preferably 25% or less, and preferably 15% or less.

4. The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 3, wherein the natural chitosan is a polysaccharide prepared from a fungal source, preferably from an Ascomycete fungus, particularly Aspergillus oryzae, and / or from a Basidiomycete fungus, particularly from the mycelium of shiitake and / or button mushrooms, preferably from Aspergillus oryzae.

5. The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 4, wherein natural chitosan is preferably present in an amount of 0.01% to 14% by mass, preferably 0.1% to 14% by mass, preferably 0.1% to 12% by mass, preferably 0.2% to 7% by mass, preferably 0.25% to 5% by mass, preferably 0.3% to 3% by mass, or more preferably 0.5% to 2% by mass, based on the total mass of the composition.

6. The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 5, wherein the crystalline fat is selected from crystalline fat of animal or plant origin, esters of glycerol with C12-C24 fatty acids optionally substituted with hydroxyl groups, and copolymers of sorbitol and C6-C16 fatty acids esterified with C12-C24 fatty acids, preferably from triesters of glycerol and behenic acid, triesters of glycerol and hydroxystearic acid, candelilla wax, sunflower wax, beeswax, carnauba wax, mixtures of mono, di, and triesters obtained from glycerol and behenic acid, and copolymers of sorbitol and sebacic acid esterified with behenic acid, preferably from triesters of glycerol and behenic acid, triesters of glycerol and hydroxystearic acid, and sunflower wax.

7. The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 6, wherein the crystalline fat is present in a concentration of 0.01% to 40% by mass, preferably between 0.1% to 15% by mass, preferably between 0.2% to 12% by mass, preferably between 1% to 10% by mass, preferably between 1% to 8% by mass, and advantageously between 1.5% to 7% by mass, relative to the total mass of the composition.

8. The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 7, wherein the mass ratio of chitosan to crystalline fat is between 0.00025 and 300, preferably between 0.001 and 100, preferably between 0.01 and 30, preferably between 0.05 and 10, preferably between 0.1 and 4, preferably between 0.1 and 2, preferably between 0.5 and 2, and advantageously between 0.5 and 1.

9. The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 8, wherein the pigment coloring material is a mineral pigment selected from zirconium or cerium oxide, zinc or iron or chromium oxide, manganese violet, ultramarine blue, chromium hydrate and Prussian blue, titanium dioxide, metal powders such as aluminum powder and copper powder, a pearlescent agent, and a monochromatic pigment.

10. The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 9, wherein the pigment coloring material is an organic pigment selected from nitroso, nitro, azo, xanthene, quinoline, anthraquinone, phthalocyanine, metal complex type, isoindolinone, isoindoline, quinacridone, perinone, perylene, diketopyrrolopyrrole, thioindigo, dioxazine, triphenylmethane, and quinophthalone compounds.

11. The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 10, wherein the pigment coloring material is preferably selected from mineral pigments, titanium dioxide, iron oxide, zirconium or cerium oxide, zinc or chromium oxide, and mixtures thereof, and preferably the pigment coloring material is selected from titanium dioxide, iron oxide, and mixtures thereof.

12. The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 11, wherein the pigment coloring material is present in the composition at a concentration in the range of 0.5% to 70% by mass, preferably 1% to 60% by mass, preferably 1% to 50% by mass, preferably 2% to 40% by mass, based on the mass of the composition, preferably 4% to 30% by mass, preferably 5% to 25% by mass, preferably 6% to 20% by mass, more preferably 8% to 18% by mass, based on the total mass of the composition.

13. The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 12, comprising 10% by mass or less, preferably 5% by mass, of silicone.

14. The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 13, which is substantially free of silicones other than film-forming or adhesive silicone polymers, preferably containing a silicone other than film-forming or adhesive silicone polymers in an amount of less than 1% by mass, preferably less than 0.5% by mass, preferably less than 0.3% by mass, preferably less than 0.1% by mass, based on the total mass of the composition, preferably completely free of silicones other than film-forming or adhesive silicone polymers, preferably substantially silicone-free, and advantageously, completely silicone-free.

15. The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 14, further comprising at least one alpha hydroxy acid, preferably lactic acid, citric acid, methyllactic acid, glucuronic acid, glycolic acid, pyruvic acid, 2-hydroxybutanoic acid, 2-hydroxypentanoic acid, 2-hydroxyhexanoic acid, 2-hydroxyheptanoic acid, 2-hydroxyoctanoic acid, 2-hydroxynonanoic acid, 2-hydroxydecanoic acid, 2-hydroxyundecanoic acid, 2-hydroxydodecanoic acid, 2-hydroxytetradecanoic acid, 2-hydroxyhexadecanoic acid, 2-hydroxyoctadecanoic acid, 2-hydroxytetracosanoic acid, 2-hydroxyeicosanoic acid; mandelic acid; phenyllactic acid; gluconic acid; galacturonic acid; aloylitic acid; ribonic acid; tartonic acid; tartaric acid; malic acid; fumaric acid; salts thereof and mixtures thereof, further comprising an alpha hydroxy acid selected from these.

16. The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 15, preferably in the form of an emulsion, preferably an oil-in-water or water-in-oil emulsion.

17. A physiologically acceptable aqueous medium is water in an amount of at least 5% by mass, preferably at least 10% by mass, preferably at least 20% by mass, preferably at least 25% by mass, preferably at least 30% by mass, preferably at least 35% by mass, preferably at least 40% by mass, based on the total mass of the composition; preferably, 5% to 95% by mass, more preferably 10% to 85% by mass, even more preferably 20% to 80% by mass, even more preferably 25% to 75% by mass, and even more preferably 28% by mass, based on the total mass of the composition. The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 16, comprising: % to 70% by mass, more preferably 30% to 65% by mass, more preferably 35% to 60% by mass of water; and optionally comprising at least one water-miscible organic solvent at 25°C, selected from alcohols, polyols, and mixtures thereof, preferably, if present, the mass ratio of the polyol to the chitosan being between 0.1 and 6, preferably between 0.1 and 5, preferably between 0.2 and 5, preferably between 0.2 and 4.5, preferably between 0.5 and 2.

18. The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 17, further comprising at least one surfactant, preferably a nonionic surfactant, preferably at a concentration between 0.01% to 15% by mass, preferably between 0.05% to 10% by mass, preferably between 0.1% to 5% by mass, and preferably between 0.1% to 2% by mass, based on the total mass of the composition.

19. The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 18, which preferably contains at least one non-volatile oil at a concentration of 50% by mass or less, preferably 35% by mass or less, preferably 20% by mass or less, preferably 15% by mass or less, preferably 10% by mass or less, and preferably 7% by mass or less, based on the total mass of the composition, and / or the mass ratio between the non-volatile oil and crystalline fat is between 0.1 and 10, preferably between 0.1 and 5, preferably between 0.3 and 3, and preferably between 0.5 and 2.

20. The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 19, further comprising a volatile oil and / or a volatile alcohol.

21. The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 20, having a pH of 6.3 or less, preferably between 3 and 6.3, and preferably between 4 and 6.

3.

22. A cosmetic method for makeup and / or care of the skin and / or lips and / or skin appendages, wherein the composition according to any one of claims 1 to 21 is applied to the skin and / or lips and / or skin appendages.

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