Solid cosmetic
A solid cosmetic composition with sunflower seed wax, jojoba ester, and specific powders and oils addresses the powdery feel issue in high-powder cosmetics, offering smooth application and high covering power with a good finish.
Patent Information
- Application Number
- PCT/JP2025/012667
- Authority / Receiving Office
- WO · WO
- Patent Type
- Applications
- Current Assignee / Owner
- Priority Date
- 2024-04-12
- Filing Date
- 2025-03-28
- Publication Date
- 2025-10-16
AI Technical Summary
Existing base makeup cosmetics with high powder content often result in a powdery feel during use, and there is a demand for solid cosmetics that provide high covering power, smooth application, and a good finish without a powdery sensation.
A solid cosmetic composition comprising sunflower seed wax, additional waxes like jojoba ester, powders, and liquid oils, with specific ratios and properties to ensure smooth application and high covering power while minimizing the powdery feel.
The composition achieves a smooth, easy-to-apply cosmetic with high covering power and a good finish, reducing the powdery sensation and providing excellent usability.
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Abstract
Description
Solid cosmetics
[0001] The present invention relates to a solid cosmetic preparation that has excellent covering power and can also be used to correct unevenness in the skin.
[0002] Cosmetics used in base makeup generally require high covering power. This is because it is desirable to conceal skin color, adjust the finish, and correct unevenness of the skin caused by pores, wrinkles, etc. To meet these needs, various types of base makeup cosmetics have been developed.
[0003] In order to achieve high covering power in cosmetics, it is common to incorporate a high content of powder. However, a high powder content tends to result in a powdery feel during use. For this reason, there is a demand for cosmetics that have a high powder content and an excellent feel during use. In particular, there is a demand for solid cosmetics that not only have a smooth and easy spread when applied to the skin, but also have good flow when removed from a container with fingers or a cosmetic puff, or when a stick-type cosmetic is brought into contact with the skin and slid with a constant force, and also have an excellent finish.
[0004] Japanese Patent Application Laid-Open No. 2023-113367
[0005] In view of the above-mentioned problems, the present invention aims to provide a cosmetic suitable for base makeup, which has an excellent feel in use and smoothness, and can achieve a good finish.
[0006] According to the present invention, the following inventions are provided. [1] A solid cosmetic comprising (A) sunflower seed wax, (B) an additional wax selected from the group consisting of rice wax, candelilla wax, Fischer-Tropsch wax, and jojoba ester, (C) a powder, and (D) a liquid oil, wherein the content of component (C) based on the total mass of the solid cosmetic is 10% by mass or more. [2] The solid cosmetic according to [1], wherein the proportion of component (B) based on the total mass of components (A) and (B) is 30% by mass or less. [3] The solid cosmetic according to [1] or [2], wherein the total content of wax components based on the total mass of the solid cosmetic is 18% by mass or less. [4] The solid cosmetic according to any of [1] to [3], wherein component (B) is jojoba ester. [5] The solid cosmetic according to any of [1] to [4], wherein component (B) has a melting point of 40°C or higher. [6] The solid cosmetic preparation according to any one of [1] to [5], wherein component (C) contains a plate-like powder having an average particle size of 5 μm or more, and the content of the plate-like powder is 3 mass% or more based on the total mass of the solid cosmetic preparation. [7] The solid cosmetic preparation according to any one of [1] to [6], wherein component (C) further contains a colorant (C1). [8] The solid cosmetic preparation according to any one of [1] to [7], which is an oil-based solid cosmetic preparation. [9] The solid cosmetic preparation according to any one of [1] to [8], which is molded into a stick shape.
[0007] The present invention provides a solid cosmetic preparation with high covering power that is suitable for base makeup. More specifically, the present invention provides a cosmetic preparation that has high covering power, is smooth and spreads well during use, has good flow when removed from a container with fingers or a cosmetic puff, or when applied to the skin in stick form, and provides an excellent finish. Specific Description of the Invention
[0008] The solid cosmetic preparation according to the present invention (hereinafter simply referred to as "cosmetic preparation") comprises: (A) sunflower seed wax, (B) additional wax, (C) powder, and (D) liquid oil. Each of these components, as well as further components that can be blended, will be described below.
[0009] (A) Sunflower seed wax The cosmetic composition according to the present invention contains a combination of wax components. One of the components in the combination is sunflower seed wax (hereinafter, sometimes referred to as component (A)). Sunflower seed wax is solid at room temperature and provides moldability to the solid cosmetic composition.
[0010] Sunflower seed wax, which is commonly used in cosmetics, is a plant-derived wax obtained by dewaxing sunflower seed oil, and is a solid oil whose main component is a long-chain saturated fatty acid ester composed of a long-chain alcohol and a long-chain fatty acid, with a melting point in the range of 70 to 85° C. The INCI (International Nomenclature of Cosmetic Ingredients) name is Helianthus Annulus (Sunflower) Seed Wax (Japanese name: Sunflower Seed Wax), and commercially available products include refined sunflower seed wax (manufactured by Yokozeki Yushi Kogyo Co., Ltd.).
[0011] (B) Additional Wax The cosmetic according to the present invention contains, in addition to component (A), an additional wax (hereinafter, sometimes referred to as component (B)) as a wax component. In the present invention, it is believed that by combining component (A) and component (B), it is possible to reduce the powdery feeling caused by powder.
[0012] Such components (B) include rice wax, candelilla wax, Fischer-Tropsch wax, and jojoba esters.
[0013] Rice wax is made by refining the wax oil that separates when refining rice oil extracted from rice bran. It is also called rice bran wax. The melting point of rice wax is generally between 70 and 83°C.
[0014] Candelilla wax is a wax obtained from the stems of the Euphorbiaceae plant, Candelilla spp. Its melting point is generally 66-72°C.
[0015] Fischer-Tropsch wax is a synthetic wax obtained by the Fischer-Tropsch wax process using a catalyst from carbon monoxide and hydrogen obtained from natural gas, etc. The melting point of Fischer-Tropsch wax is generally 52 to 113°C.
[0016] Jojoba esters are mixed esters obtained by interesterification of jojoba seed oil and hydrogenated jojoba oil. More specifically, examples include jojoba oil (generally having a melting point of 4 to 17°C), which is an ester obtained from jojoba seeds; partially hydrogenated jojoba oil (generally having a melting point of 42 to 60°C), which is an ester obtained by partially hydrogenating the jojoba oil; hydrogenated jojoba oil (generally having a melting point of 66 to 70°C), which is obtained by hydrogenating the jojoba oil; and mixtures thereof.
[0017] Component (B) can be selected from the above-mentioned compounds according to the purpose, but the use of jojoba ester is preferred because it achieves both ease of use and a good finish at a higher level. Component (B) can also be used in combination of two or more compounds selected from the above-mentioned compounds.
[0018] Note that both component (A) and component (B) are classified as waxes and contribute to maintaining the cosmetic composition of the present invention in a solid state. However, in consideration of usability such as ease of spreading, it is preferable to adjust the physical properties and content of component (A) and component (B) so that they have a melting point that allows them to melt easily at body temperature and have an appropriate hardness.
[0019] First, regarding the melting point, the melting point of component (A) is 70 to 85° C. as described above, but the melting point of component (B) is preferably 40° C. or higher, and more preferably 45° C. or higher. When component (B) is a mixture, it is preferable that the melting point of the entire mixture of component (B) be within the above range.
[0020] Furthermore, the ratio of the (B) component (B / (A+B)) based on the total mass of the (A) component and the (B) component is preferably 30% by mass or less, more preferably 20% by mass or less, and particularly preferably 15% by mass or less. A high content of the (A) component relative to the (B) component reduces the powdery feel during use and achieves a comfortable finish. On the other hand, the ratio of the (B) component (B / (A+B)) based on the total mass of the (A) component and the (B) component is preferably 3% by mass or more, and more preferably 5% by mass or more. The presence of a sufficient amount of the (B) component allows for smoothness during use and when applied to the skin.
[0021] Furthermore, in order for the solid cosmetic to have an appropriate hardness for excellent usability, the total content of wax components, based on the total mass of the cosmetic, is preferably 18% by mass or less, more preferably 15% by mass or less, and particularly preferably 10% by mass or less. On the other hand, in order for the solid cosmetic to have sufficient hardness during use, the total content of wax components, based on the total mass of the cosmetic, is preferably 3% by mass or more, more preferably 5% by mass or more, and particularly preferably 7% by mass or more. Note that the cosmetic according to the present invention may also contain waxes other than component (A) and component (B) as wax components. Specific examples of other waxes include carnauba wax, beeswax, microcrystalline wax, and paraffin wax. The total content of wax components refers to the total content of wax components including these other waxes.
[0022] The content of the wax component is preferably selected so as to satisfy the above conditions, but can be adjusted as desired depending on the purpose, etc. Specifically, the content of component (A) based on the total mass of the cosmetic is preferably 2 to 15 mass%, more preferably 4 to 12 mass%, and particularly preferably 6 to 10 mass%, and the content of component (B) is preferably 0.3 to 5 mass%, more preferably 0.5 to 3 mass%, and particularly preferably 0.7 to 2 mass%.
[0023] (C) Powder The cosmetic according to the present invention comprises a powder (hereinafter, sometimes referred to as component (C)). Component (C) has the function of covering the skin surface and coloring the finish in a base makeup cosmetic. Component (C) can be selected arbitrarily from components commonly used in cosmetics.
[0024] Specific examples of component (C) include inorganic powders (e.g., talc, kaolin, mica, sericite, muscovite, phlogopite, synthetic mica, lepidolite, biotite, vermiculite, magnesium carbonate, calcium carbonate, aluminum silicate, barium silicate, calcium silicate, magnesium silicate, strontium silicate, metal tungstate, bismuth oxychloride, titanium oxide-coated bismuth oxychloride, magnesium, silica, zeolite, barium sulfate, calcined calcium sulfate (calcined gypsum), calcium phosphate, fluorapatite, hydroxyapatite, ceramic powder, and metal soaps (e.g., zinc myristate, calcium palmitate, and aluminum stearate)); and organic powders (e.g., polyamide resin powder (nylon powder), polyethylene powder, polymethyl methacrylate powder, polystyrene powder, styrene-acrylic acid copolymer resin powder, benzoguanamine resin powder, polytetrafluoroethylene powder, and cellulose powder).
[0025] Furthermore, a colorant (hereinafter sometimes referred to as component (C1)) can also be used as component (C).
[0026] Component (C1) can be any colorant typically used in cosmetics. It may be in the form of a powder or a lake (with oil incorporated). It may be an inorganic pigment, an organic pigment, or a pearlescent agent.
[0027] Examples of colorants include inorganic white pigments (titanium dioxide, zinc oxide), inorganic red pigments (iron oxide (red iron oxide), iron titanate), inorganic brown pigments (γ-iron oxide), inorganic yellow pigments (yellow iron oxide, ochre), inorganic black pigments (black iron oxide, carbon, low-order titanium oxide), inorganic purple pigments (mango violet, cobalt violet), inorganic green pigments (chromium oxide, chromium hydroxide, cobalt titanate), inorganic blue pigments (ultramarine, Prussian blue), pearl pigments (titanium oxide-coated mica, titanium oxide-coated talc, colored titanium oxide-coated mica, fish scale foil), metal powder pigments (aluminum powder, copper powder), organic pigments (Red No. 202, Red No. 205, Red No. 220, Red No. 2), 28, Red 405, Orange 203, Orange 204, Yellow 205, Yellow 40, Blue 404), zirconium, barium, and aluminum lake organic pigments (Red 3, Red 104, Red 227, Red 401, Orange 205, Yellow 4, Yellow 20, Green 3, Blue 1), natural pigments (chlorophyll, carotenoids (β-carotene), carthamine, cochineal, chalcone, curcumin, betanin, flavonol, flavone, anthocyanidin, anthraquinone, naphthoquinone), functional pigments (boron nitride, photochromic pigments, synthetic fluorine phlogopite, iron-containing synthetic fluorine phlogopite, fine particle composite powder (hybrid fine powder), etc.
[0028] In the cosmetic composition according to the present invention, an inorganic pigment is preferably used as component (C1). Furthermore, the component (C1) used in the present invention is preferably hydrophobized. By subjecting the color pigment to hydrophobization treatment, the rough feeling that may occur during use of the cosmetic composition can be reduced, improving usability and improving the cosmetic's long-lasting effect after use. Such hydrophobization treatments can be selected from silicone treatment, fluorine treatment, fatty acid treatment, metal soap treatment, N-acylamino acid treatment, and the like. Of these, silicone treatment, fluorine treatment, N-acylamino acid treatment, metal soap treatment, and fatty acid treatment are preferred because they provide a sticky feel and glossy feel during use, as well as a strong covering effect.
[0029] The content of component (C) can be adjusted as desired depending on the purpose, but the content of component (C) based on the total mass of the cosmetic must be 10% by mass or more, and preferably 15% by mass or more. A high content of component (C) provides high covering power and excellent unevenness correction effects. On the other hand, in order to maintain good ease of application of the cosmetic, the content of component (C) based on the total mass of the cosmetic is preferably 65% by mass or less, and more preferably 50% by mass or less.
[0030] When used, the content of component (C1) is preferably 10 to 70 mass %, and more preferably 20 to 60 mass %, based on the total mass of the entire cosmetic. If the content of component (C1) is too low, the cosmetic may not be able to sufficiently color the skin, etc., while if it is too high, secondary adhesion may occur more easily.
[0031] Component (C) can be arbitrarily selected from those listed above, but it is preferable that at least a portion of component (C) is a plate-like powder. A plate-like powder is a powder having an aspect ratio (average particle diameter / average thickness) greater than 1, for example, at least 5 or more. The aspect ratio is preferably 20 or more, more preferably 20 to 80, and particularly preferably 25 to 60. Furthermore, the volume-based median diameter (D50) of component (C) is preferably 5 μm or more, preferably 5 to 30 μm, and more preferably 8 to 20 μm. By including such a plate-like powder in a cosmetic, a smooth feel can be achieved even when the content of component (C) is increased.
[0032] Component (C) may be entirely plate-like powder, or may be used in combination with spherical powder, etc. In order to obtain the effects of component (C), the content of the plate-like powder, based on the total mass of the cosmetic, is preferably 3 mass% or more, more preferably 5 mass% or more, and particularly preferably 10 mass% or more.
[0033] It is preferable not to select talc as the platy powder.Furthermore, it is also preferable not to select boron nitride as the platy powder, since it tends to reduce the transparency of the finished cosmetic product when used.
[0034] (D) Liquid Oil The cosmetic preparation according to the present invention comprises a liquid oil (hereinafter, sometimes referred to as component (D)). Component (D) is an oil that is commonly used in cosmetics and is liquid at room temperature (25°C).
[0035] Examples of such component (D) include pentaerythrityl tetraethylhexanoate, di(phytosteryl / octyldodecyl) lauroyl glutamate, triisostearin, glyceryl diisostearate, caprylic / capric triglyceride, polyglyceryl-6 polyricinoleate, triethylhexanoin, phytosteryl / behenyl dimer dilinoleate, phytosteryl / isostearyl / cetyl / stearyl / behenyl dimer dilinoleate, isopropyl palmitate, triisostearin, ethylhexyl palmitate, myristyl myristate, isopropyl myristate, tripropylene glycol dipivalate, diisopropyl sebacate, isopropyl neopentanoate, ester oils such as decyl, isocetyl isostearate, cetyl 2-ethylhexanoate, 2-heptylundecyl palmitate, diisobutyl adipate, 2-hexyldecyl sebacate, isopropyl myristate, 2-octyldodecyl oleate, diisostearyl malate, neopentyl glycol diheptanoate, ethylene glycol di-2-ethylhexanoate, glyceride tri-2-heptylundecanoate, glyceryl diisostearate, glyceryl triisostearate, glycerin trioctanoate, glycerin triisopalmitate, trimethylolpropane tri-2-ethylhexanoate, and pentaerythritol tetra-2-ethylhexanoate; Examples of suitable silicone oils include hydrocarbon oils such as squalane; linear silicone oils such as dimethylpolysiloxane or methylphenylpolysiloxane (diphenylsiloxyphenyltrimethicone); cyclic silicone oils such as octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane or decamethylcyclopentasiloxane; higher alcohols, fatty acids, triglycerins, and fluorine-modified oils.
[0036] The content of the component (D) can be adjusted as desired depending on the purpose, etc., but the content of the component (D) based on the total mass of the cosmetic is preferably 20 to 80 mass% or more, and more preferably 30 to 70 mass% or more.
[0037] (E) Other Additives In addition to the components described above, the cosmetic preparation of the present invention can contain any additives commonly used in cosmetics, such as oil-based thickeners, ultraviolet absorbers, film-forming agents, water-soluble polymers, water-soluble drugs, oil-soluble drugs, sequestering agents, antioxidants, and water.
[0038] The cosmetic according to the present invention is a solid cosmetic containing the above-mentioned ingredients and can take any form within that range. However, since the excellent properties of the cosmetic according to the present invention are more easily exhibited in cosmetics with a high oil content, the cosmetic according to the present invention is preferably an oil-based cosmetic. Furthermore, the cosmetic according to the present invention can be applied as a solid cosmetic, such as a concealer or foundation. It is particularly preferable that the cosmetic be formed into a stick shape.
[0039] The cosmetic composition according to the present invention can be applied to the skin by scooping it up from a container with a finger or by directly contacting the stick-shaped cosmetic composition with the skin. From this perspective, it is preferable that the cosmetic composition according to the present invention has a relatively high hardness. The hardness of the cosmetic composition according to the present invention is adjusted depending on the intended use, but for example, the hardness is preferably 10 to 200 N, and more preferably 30 to 100 N, when measured at 37°C with a pressure-sensitive shaft of 1.5φ, a penetration speed of 2 cm / min, and a penetration depth of 10 mm.
[0040] The present invention will be described in detail based on the following examples, but the present invention is not limited to these examples. Unless otherwise specified, the content is expressed as % by mass based on the total amount.
[0041] [Examples 1 to 9, Comparative Examples 1 to 9] Cosmetics of each example and comparative example were prepared according to the formulations shown in Tables 1-1 and 1-2.
[0042] Furthermore, the performance of these cosmetics was evaluated as follows, and the results are shown in Tables 1-1 and 1-2.
[0043] The obtained cosmetic was formed into a stick shape and filled into a container. The cosmetic was applied to the skin with appropriate force. A panel of five experts evaluated the effect of the cosmetic on the skin using the following criteria: A: All five people answered that it was preferable. B: Four people out of five people answered that it was preferable. C: Two to three people out of five people answered that it was preferable. D: Only one person out of five people answered that it was preferable.
[0044] Smoothness The obtained cosmetic was formed into a stick shape and filled into a container. The cosmetic was pressed onto the skin with an appropriate amount of force and slid across it. The smoothness was evaluated according to the following criteria: A: All of the 5 people answered that it was preferable. B: 4 of the 5 people answered that it was preferable. C: 2-3 of the 5 people answered that it was preferable. D: Only 0-1 of the 5 people answered that it was preferable.
[0045] Fit After applying the obtained cosmetic to the skin, the impression of whether it fitted the skin was evaluated according to the following criteria: A: All of the 5 people answered that it was good. B: 4 of the 5 people answered that it was good. C: 2-3 of the 5 people answered that it was good. D: Only 0-1 of the 5 people answered that it was good.
[0046]
[0047] In Comparative Example 2, the product did not solidify sufficiently to form a solid cosmetic preparation, and therefore could not be evaluated for each evaluation item.
Claims
1. A solid cosmetic comprising: (A) sunflower seed wax; (B) an additional wax selected from the group consisting of rice wax, candelilla wax, Fischer-Tropsch wax, and jojoba ester; (C) a powder; and (D) a liquid oil, wherein the content of component (C) based on the total mass of the solid cosmetic is 10% by mass or more.
2. The solid cosmetic preparation according to claim 1, wherein the proportion of component (B) is 30% by mass or less based on the total mass of component (A) and component (B).
3. The solid cosmetic according to claim 1 or 2, wherein the total content of wax components is 18% by mass or less, based on the total mass of the solid cosmetic.
4. A solid cosmetic preparation according to claim 1 or 2, wherein component (B) is jojoba ester.
5. A solid cosmetic preparation according to claim 1 or 2, wherein the melting point of component (B) is 40°C or higher.
6. A solid cosmetic according to claim 1 or 2, wherein component (C) contains a plate-like powder having an average particle size of 5 μm or more, and the content of the plate-like powder is 3 mass% or more based on the total mass of the solid cosmetic.
7. A solid cosmetic preparation according to claim 1 or 2, wherein component (C) further comprises a colorant (C1).
8. The solid cosmetic according to claim 1 or 2, which is an oil-based solid cosmetic.
9. The solid cosmetic preparation according to claim 1 or 2, which is molded into a stick shape.
Citation Information
Patent Citations
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