STABLE COMPOSITION WITH AN EXCELLENT TEXTURE

Abstract

STABLE COMPOSITION WITH EXCELLENT TEXTURE The present invention relates to a composition comprising: (a) at least two fatty acid polyglyceryl esters; (b) at least one jojoba ester wax; (c) at least one C12-C24 fatty acid ester of a C2-C24 polyol; and (d) at least one carboxylic anionic surfactant or carboxylate selected from amino acids modified with at least one C8-C30 hydrocarbon-based chain and their salts, wherein at least one of (a) the at least two fatty acid polyglyceryl esters has at least two hydroxyl groups in its polyglyceryl fraction. The composition according to the present invention is stable and can provide excellent texture, with both good absorption and a rich feel. Figure for abstract: none

Description

Title of the invention: STABLE COMPOSITION WITH AN EXCELLENT TEXTURE technical field

[0001] The present invention relates to a composition, preferably a cosmetic composition, and more preferably a cosmetic composition for the skin which is stable and can offer an excellent texture such as a good feeling of penetration and a rich feeling. STATE OF THE ART

[0002] There are many needs for cosmetic skin products, such as milky lotions, which are stable without causing phase separation and the like.

[0003] On the other hand, consumers are also looking for cosmetic skin products that can also offer an excellent texture such as a good feeling of penetration during application to the skin and a rich feeling after application to the skin. DISCLOSURE OF THE INVENTION

[0004] However, a good penetrating sensation and a rich feel are often incompatible. In other words, it is difficult for a cosmetic product with a good penetrating sensation to offer a rich feel, and it is difficult for a cosmetic product with a rich feel to offer a good penetrating sensation. Therefore, it is not easy for a cosmetic product to offer an excellent texture with both a good penetrating sensation and a rich feel.

[0005] An objective of the present invention is to propose a stable composition that can offer an excellent texture, with both a good feeling of penetration and a rich sensation.

[0006] The above objective of the present invention can be achieved by a composition, preferably a cosmetic composition, and more preferably a cosmetic composition for the skin, comprising: a. at least two polyglyceryl esters of fatty acids; b. at least one jojoba ester wax; c. at least one C2-C24 fatty acid ester of a C2-C24 polyol; and d. at least one anionic carboxylic or carboxylate surfactant chosen from amino acids modified with at least one C8-C3o hydrocarbon-based chain and their salts,

[0007] in which

[0008] at least one of (a) at least two fatty acid polyglyceryl esters has at least two hydroxyl groups in its polyglyceryl fraction.

[0009] Each of the (a) fatty acid polyglyceryl esters may have an HLB value of 5 or more, preferably of 6 or more, and more preferably of 7 or more.

[0010] (a) Polyglyceryl esters of fatty acids may comprise a combination of:

[0011] (al) a first polyglyceryl ester of fatty acid having an HLB value of 5 to less than 11, preferably of 6 to less than 11, and more preferably of 7 to less than 11; and

[0012] (a2) a second fatty acid polyglyceryl ester having an HLB value of 11 to 17, preferably from 11 to 16, and more preferably from 11 to 15,

[0013] in which

[0014] each of the (a1) first fatty acid polyglyceryl ester and of the (a2) second fatty acid polyglyceryl ester has at least two hydroxyl groups in its polyglyceryl fraction.

[0015] The total amount of (a) fatty acid polyglyceryl esters in the composition according to the present invention can be from 0.1% to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.5% to 10% by weight, and more preferably from 1% to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0016] The (b) jojoba ester wax can be selected from fully hydrogenated jojoba ester of formula (II):

[0017] R1-COO-CH2-R1 (II)

[0018] in which

[0019] R1 is CH3-(CH2)y-, and y is 16, 18, 20 or 22.

[0020] The quantity of (b) jojoba ester wax(s) in the composition according to the present invention can be from 0.01% to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 5% by weight, and more preferably from 0.1% to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0021] The (c) fatty acid ester in Ci2-C24 of a C2-C24 polyol may be selected from glyceryl laurate, glyceryl oleate, glyceryl stearate, glyceryl palmitate and a mixture thereof.

[0022] The quantity of the (c) fatty acid ester(s) in C2-C24 of a C2-C24 polyol in the composition according to the present invention can be from 0.01% to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 5% by weight, and more preferably from 0.1% to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0023] The (d) anionic carboxylic or carboxylate surfactant selected from amino acids modified with at least one C8-C30 hydrocarbon chain and their salts can be represented by the following formula (III): (HD

[0024] in which: • Z represents a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched hydrocarbon-based group comprising 8 to 24 carbon atoms, preferably 8 to 22 carbon atoms, • X is a hydrogen atom or a methyl group; • n is equal to 0 or 1; • Y is a group chosen from a hydrogen atom and a group -CH3, -CH(CH3)2, -CH2CH(CH3)2, -CH(CH3)CH2CH3, -ch2c6h5, -ch2c2h4oh, -ch2 OH, -CH(OH)CH3, -(CH2)4NH2, -(CH2)3NHC(NH)NH2, -CH2C(O)O M+, -(CH2)2C(O)OH, and -(CH2)2C(O)O M+; and • M is a hydrogen atom or a cation, such as sodium, potassium, ammonium, or triethanolamine.

[0025] The quantity of the anionic carboxylic surfactant(s) or carboxylate(s) selected from amino acids modified with at least one C8-C30 hydrocarbon-based chain and their salts in the composition according to the present invention can be from 0.01% to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 5% by weight, and more preferably from 0.1% to 1% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0026] The composition according to the present invention may further comprise (e) at least one saturated fatty alcohol in Ci2-C24, preferably selected from the group consisting of cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, cetearyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, lauric alcohol, tridecyl alcohol, pentadecyl alcohol, hexadecyl alcohol, arachidyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol and a mixture thereof.

[0027] The quantity of the saturated fatty alcohol(s) in Ci2-C24 in the composition according to the present invention can be from 0.1% to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.5% to 10% by weight, and more preferably from 1% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0028] The composition according to the present invention may further comprise (f) water.

[0029] The composition according to the present invention may further comprise (g) at an oil.

[0030] The present invention also relates to a cosmetic process for treating a keratinous substance, comprising the step of applying the composition according to the present invention to the keratinous substance. Best embodiment of the invention

[0031] After extensive research, the inventors discovered a new approach to offer a stable composition that can provide an excellent texture, with both a good feeling of penetration and a rich sensation.

[0032] Thus, one aspect of the present invention is a composition, comprising: a. at least two polyglyceryl esters of fatty acids; b. at least one jojoba ester wax; c. at least one C2-C24 fatty acid ester of a C2-C24 polyol; and d. at least one anionic carboxylic or carboxylate surfactant chosen from amino acids modified with at least one C8-C3o hydrocarbon-based chain and their salts,

[0033] in which

[0034] at least one of (a) at least two fatty acid polyglyceryl esters has at least two hydroxyl groups in its polyglyceryl fraction.

[0035] The composition according to the present invention is stable and can offer an excellent texture, with both a good feeling of penetration and a rich sensation.

[0036] The composition according to the present invention is stable immediately after preparation and for a long time after preparation, even in the event of temperature changes from a cold to a warm temperature. Therefore, the composition according to the present invention is stable over time and can be stored for a long period even in the event of temperature changes occurring between winter and summer.

[0037] The composition according to the present invention can offer a good sensation of penetration, during and after application, preferably during application.

[0038] The expression "penetration sensation" here refers to a sensation such that the ingredients of the composition penetrate the skin.

[0039] The composition according to the present invention can also offer a rich sensation, during and after application, preferably after application.

[0040] The "rich sensation" here includes a thick and moist sensation to the touch, or a greasy or waxy sensation to the touch, as well as an elastic sensation with the fingers to the touch as if the composition repelled the fingers.

[0041] Consequently, the composition according to the present invention can also offer an excellent texture when used.

[0042] The composition according to the present invention and similar ones will be explained in a manner more details below. [Composition]

[0043] The present invention relates to a composition, preferably a cosmetic composition and more preferably a cosmetic composition for the skin, comprising: a. at least two polyglyceryl esters of fatty acids; b. at least one jojoba ester wax; c. at least one C2-C24 fatty acid ester of a C2-C24 polyol; and d. at least one anionic carboxylic or carboxylate surfactant chosen from amino acids modified with at least one C8-C3o hydrocarbon-based chain and their salts,

[0044] in which

[0045] at least one of (a) at least two fatty acid polyglyceryl esters has at least two hydroxyl groups in its polyglyceryl fraction. (Fatty acid polyglyceryl ester)

[0046] The composition according to the present invention comprises (a) at least two fatty acid polyglyceryl esters in which at least one of the (a) at least two fatty acid polyglyceryl esters has at least two hydroxyl groups in its polyglyceryl fraction.

[0047] In other words, the composition according to the present invention comprises two or more fatty acid polyglyceryl esters, in which one or more fatty acid polyglyceryl esters have at least two hydroxyl groups in their polyglyceryl fraction.

[0048] Each of the (a) fatty acid polyglyceryl esters can be selected from mono-, di-, triesters or more, preferably mono- or diesters, and more preferably monoesters, of saturated or unsaturated fatty acids.

[0049] The fatty acid for the fatty acid fraction or the fatty acid fraction of each of the (a) Polyglyceryl esters of fatty acids may independently comprise 4 or more carbon atoms, preferably 6 or more carbon atoms, and more preferably 8 or more carbon atoms. The fatty acid for the fatty acid fraction or fatty acid fraction of each of the (a) polyglyceryl esters of fatty acids may independently comprise 26 carbon atoms or fewer, preferably 22 carbon atoms or fewer, and more preferably 18 carbon atoms or fewer. The fatty acid for the fatty acid fraction or fatty acid fraction of each of the (a) polyglyceryl esters of fatty acids may independently comprise from 4 to 26, preferably from 6 to 22 carbon atoms, and more preferably from 8 to 18 carbon atoms.

[0050] The fatty acid for the fatty acid fraction of each of the (a) polyglyceryl esters fatty acid can be saturated or unsaturated, and can be chosen from caprylic acid, capric acid, lauric acid, myristic acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid, isostearic acid, oleic acid and linoleic acid.

[0051] It is preferable that the fatty acid in the fatty acid fraction of at least one of the (a) fatty acid polyglyceryl esters have at least one branched carbon chain. The fatty acid having at least one branched carbon chain may be selected from branched fatty acids such as isostearic acid. It may be more preferable that the fatty acid in the fatty acid fraction of one of the (a) fatty acid polyglyceryl esters be a branched fatty acid.

[0052] It is preferable that each of the (a) fatty acid polyglyceryl esters independently comprise 2 to 10 glycerol motifs, preferably 3 to 8 glycerol motifs, and more preferably 4 to 6 glycerol motifs.

[0053] According to the present invention, at least one of the (a) fatty acid polyglyceryl esters has at least two hydroxyl groups in its polyglyceryl fraction. All of the (a) fatty acid polyglyceryl esters may have at least two hydroxyl groups in their fatty acid polyglyceryl fraction.

[0054] It may be preferable for the composition according to the present invention to comprise two fatty acid polyglyceryl esters, wherein one of the two fatty acid polyglyceryl esters has at least two hydroxyl groups in its polyglyceryl fraction. The two (a) fatty acid polyglyceryl esters may have at least two hydroxyl groups in their fatty acid polyglyceryl fraction.

[0055] By way of examples of (a) polyglyceryl esters of fatty acids, PG2 stearate, PG2 isostearate, PG2 oleate, PG3 distearate, PG3 dii-sostearate, PG3 dicocoate, PG5 trioleate, PG10 pentaoleate, PG2 caprate, PG2 laurate, PG4 oleate, PG4 laurate, PG4 isostearate, PG6 isostearate, PG6 distearate, PG10 trilaurate, PG10 distearate, PG10 tristearate, PG10 diisostearate, PG10 triisostearate, PG 10 tricocoate, PG 10 dioleate, PG5 laurate, PG3 cocoate, PG3 caprate, PG4 caprate, PG5 myristate, PG5 stearate, PG5 oleate, PG6 caprylate, PG6 tricaprylate, PG6 caprate, PG6 dicaprate, PG6 laurate, PG6 dioleate, PG10 laurate, PG10 myristate, PG10 dimyristate, PG10 stearate, PG10 isostearate, PG10 oleate, PG10 cocoate, PG10 dicocoate,and their mixtures.

[0056] Each of the (a) fatty acid polyglyceryl esters may have an HLB value of 5 or more, preferably 6 or more, and preferably 7 or more.

[0057] The term HLB (“hydrophilic-lipophilic balance”) is well known to those skilled in the art, and reflects the ratio between the hydrophilic part and the lipophilic part in the molecule.

[0058] In one embodiment of the present invention, the (a) fatty acid polyglyceryl esters may comprise or be a combination of:

[0059] (al) a first polyglyceryl ester of fatty acid having an HLB value of 5 to less than 11, preferably of 6 to less than 11, and more preferably of 7 to less than 11; and

[0060] (a2) a second fatty acid polyglyceryl ester having an HLB value of 11 to 17, preferably from 11 to 16, and more preferably from 11 to 15,

[0061] in which

[0062] each of the (a1) first fatty acid polyglyceryl ester and of the (a2) second fatty acid polyglyceryl ester has at least two hydroxyl groups in its polyglyceryl fraction.

[0063] As a first polyglyceryl ester of fatty acid, examples include PG2 stearate (HLB: 5.0), PG2 isostearate (HLB: 8), PG2 oleate (HLB: 7.2), PG3 distearate (HLB: 5), PG3 diisostearate (HLB: 5), PG3 dicocoate (HLB: 7), PG5 trioleate (HLB: 7.0), PG10 pentaoleate (HLB: 6.4), PG2 caprate (HLB: 9.5), PG2 laurate (HLB: 8.5), PG4 oleate (HLB: 8.8), PG4 laurate (HLB: 10.3), and PG4 isostearate. (HLB: 8.2), PG6 isostearate (HLB: 10.8), PG6 distearate (HLB: 8), PG-6 tricaprylate (HLB: 10.6), PG-6 dicaprate (HLB: 10.2), PG6 dioleate (HLB: 9.8), PG 10 trilaurate (HLB: 10.4), PG 10 distearate (HLB: 9 to 11), PG 10 distearate (HLB: 8), PG10 diisostearate (HLB: 10), PG10 triisostearate (HLB: 8), PG10 tricocoate (HLB: 9), and mixtures thereof.

[0064] As a (a2) second fatty acid polyglyceryl ester, examples include PG10 dioleate (HLB: 11.9), PG5 laurate (HLB: 15.8), PG3 cocoate (HLB: 12), PG3 caprate (HLB: approximately 14), PG4 caprate (HLB: 14), PG5 myristate (HLB: 15.4), PG5 stearate (HLB: 15), PG5 oleate (HLB: 12.7), PG6 caprylate (HLB: 14.6), PG6 caprate (HLB: 13.1), PG6 laurate (HLB: 14.1), PG10 laurate (HLB: 15.2), PG10 myristate 10 (HLB: 14.9), PG10 myristate (HLB: 12.3), PG10 stearate (HLB: 15.1), PG10 isostearate (HLB: 13.9), PG10 oleate (HLB: 13.0), PG10 cocoate (HLB: 16), PG10 dicocoate (HLB: 12) and mixtures thereof.

[0065] It is particularly preferable that the (a) fatty acid polyglyceryl esters be a combination of PG2 isostearate and PG4 caprate.

[0066] The total amount of (a) fatty acid polyglyceryl esters in the composition according to the present invention may be 0.1% by weight or more, preferably 0.5% by weight or more, and more preferably 1% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0067] Furthermore, the total quantity of (a) fatty acid polyglyceryl esters in the composition according to the present invention may be 15% by weight or less, preferably 10% by weight or less, and more preferably 5% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0068] Thus, the total quantity of (a) fatty acid polyglyceryl esters in the composition according to the present invention can range from 0.1% to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.5% to 10% by weight, and more preferably from 1% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. (Jojoba ester wax)

[0069] The composition according to the present invention comprises (b) at least one jojoba ester wax. Only one type of jojoba ester wax may be used, but two or more different types of jojoba ester waxes may be used in combination.

[0070] For the purposes of the present invention, the term "wax" refers to a deformable or undeformable lipophilic compound that is solid at room temperature (25 °C), with a reversible solid-liquid phase change, and a melting point greater than or equal to 30 °C, which may extend up to 120 °C. In particular, waxes suitable for use in the present invention may have a melting point greater than or equal to 60 °C, and in particular greater than or equal to 70 °C.

[0071] The term “lipophilic compound” refers to a compound having an acid number and a hydroxyl number of less than 150 mg KOH / g.

[0072] For the purposes of the present invention, the melting point corresponds to the temperature of the most endothermic peak observed on the thermal analysis (DSC) as described in ISO 11357-3; 1999. The melting point of the wax can be measured using a differential scanning calorimeter (DSC), for example the calorimeter sold under the name MDSC 2920 by TA Instruments or the calorimeter sold under the name DSC Q100 by TA Instruments with the TA Universal Analysis software.

[0073] The measurement protocol is as follows:

[0074] A 5 mg sample of wax placed in a crucible is subjected to a first temperature ramp from -20 °C to 100 °C at a heating rate of 10 °C / minute. It is then cooled from 100 °C to -20 °C at a cooling rate of 10 °C / minute and finally subjected to a second temperature ramp from -20 °C to 100 °C at a heating rate of 5 °C / minute. During the second temperature ramp, the change in the difference in power absorbed by the empty crucible and by the crucible containing the wax sample is measured as a function of temperature. The melting point of the compound is the temperature value corresponding to the peak of the curve representing the change in the difference in power absorbed as a function of temperature.

[0075] (b) Jojoba ester wax may be a saturated form of jojoba esters, which may be fully hydrogenated jojoba ester of formula (II):

[0076] R1-COO-CH2-R1 (II)

[0077] in which

[0078] R1 is CH3-(CH2)y-, and y is 16, 18, 20 or 22.

[0079] (b) Jojoba ester wax can be obtained by hydrogenation of jojoba wax ester (jojoba oil) of the following formula:

[0080] CH3-(CH2)7-CH=CH-CH2-(CH2)x-COO-CH2-(CH2)y-CH2-CH=CH-(CH2)7-CH3

[0081] in which

[0082] x and y are equal to 6, 8, 10 or 12.

[0083] Jojoba wax esters are composed of straight-chain monounsaturated fatty alcohols and monounsaturated fatty acids. The only double bond is located in the middle (position n-9), starting from the final methyl group (-CH3) of the chain of the respective fatty acid or alcohol.

[0084] Such wax esters are composed of fatty alcohols and fatty esters with an even number of carbon atoms, primarily 20 and 22 carbon atoms. The resulting material comprises esters having chain lengths of 38, 40, 42, and 44 carbon atoms, with a small amount of 36- and 46-carbon esters present. The typical composition of the wax esters is shown below.

[0085] [Tables 1] Wax esters (X, Y) Typical wax ester chain length % (area per GPC) (6, 6) 36 1 (6, 8) (8, 6) 38 8 (6,10) (8, 8)(10, 6) 40 39 (10, 8) (8,10) 42 38 (10, 10) 44 13 (12, 10) (10, 12) 46 1

[0086] Jojoba wax ester can be derived from the seeds of the jojoba plant (Simmondsia chinensis).

[0087] Examples of jojoba wax ester include the product sold under the name Floraesters® 70 by International Flora Technologies Ltd, and the product sold under the name Jojoba Esters-70 by Vantage.

[0088] The quantity of (b) jojoba ester wax(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 0.01% by weight or more, preferably 0.05% by weight or more, and more preferably 0.1% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0089] Furthermore, the quantity of the (b) jojoba ester wax(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 10% by weight or less, preferably 5% by weight or less, and more preferably 1% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0090] Thus, the quantity of the (b) jojoba ester wax(s) in the composition according to the present invention can range from 0.01% to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 5% by weight, and more preferably from 0.1% to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0091] (C2-C24 fatty acid ester of a C2-C24 polyol)

[0092] The composition according to the present invention comprises (c) at least one C2-C24 fatty acid ester of a C2-C24 polyol. Only one type of C2-C24 fatty acid ester of a C2-C24 polyol may be used, but two or more different types of C2-C24 fatty acid ester of a C2-C24 polyol may be used in combination.

[0093] The (c) fatty acid ester in Ci2-C24 of a C2-C24 polyol is different from each of the (a) fatty acid polyglyceryl esters explained above.

[0094] The fatty acid in C2-C24 for the (c) fatty acid ester in C2-C24 of a C2-C24 polyol, preferably the fatty acid ester in C2-C24 of glycerol, may be an unsaturated or saturated acid, for example, stearic acid, oleic acid or palmitic acid.

[0095] For the purposes of the present invention, the term "polyol" should be understood as designating any organic molecule including at least two free hydroxyl groups.

[0096] The polyol for the fatty acid ester of a polyol can be a linear, branched or cyclic alkyl type compound, saturated or unsaturated, bearing on the alkyl chain at least two OH functions and in particular at least three OH functions.

[0097] Polyols that are advantageously suited to the fatty acid ester of a polyol are those preferably having 3 to 16 carbon atoms.

[0098] Advantageously, the polyol can be selected, for example, from ethylene glycol, pentaerythritol, trimethylolpropane, propylene glycol, 1,3-propanediol, butylene glycol, isoprene glycol, pentylene glycol, hexylene glycol, poly-glycerin-3 and glycerol, and mixtures thereof.

[0099] According to a preferred embodiment of the present invention, said polyol is selected from 1,3-propanediol, polyglycerin-3, glycerol and pentylene glycol, and mixtures thereof. It is preferably glycerol.

[0100] According to a particular embodiment of the present invention, the composition comprises at least one Ci2-C24 fatty acid ester of glycerol.

[0101] Examples of Ci2-C24 fatty acid esters of glycerol include glyceryl laurate, glyceryl oleate, glyceryl stearate, glyceryl palmitate and mixtures thereof.

[0102] Examples of commercially available products include glyceryl stearate, such as the product sold under the name Tegin MO by Evonik Goldschmidt, and glyceryl laurate, such as the product sold under the name Imwitor 3120 by Hiils.

[0103] Monoglyceride stearates (INCI name: Glyceryl Stearate) can also be used, for example those sold under the name Dimodan HP by Danisco, or those sold under the name Tegin 90 by Evonik Goldschmidt.

[0104] Preferably, the Ci2-C24 fatty acid ester of glycerol is glyceryl stearate.

[0105] The amount of the (c) fatty acid ester(s) in C12-C24 of glycerol in the com position according to the present invention may be 0.01% by weight or more, preferably 0.05% by weight or more, and more preferably 0.1% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0106] Furthermore, the quantity of the (c) fatty acid ester(s) in Ci2-C24 of glycerol in the composition according to the present invention may be 10% by weight or less, preferably 5% by weight or less, and more preferably 1% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0107] Thus, the quantity of the (c) fatty acid ester(s) in Ci2-C24 of glycerol in the composition according to the present invention can range from 0.01% to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 5% by weight, and more preferably from 0.1% to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0108] (Anionic carboxylic surfactant or carboxylate)

[0109] The composition according to the present invention comprises (d) at least one carboxylic anionic surfactant or carboxylate selected from amino acids modified with at least one C8-C30 hydrocarbon chain and their salts. Only one type of such anionic surfactant may be used, but two or more different types of such anionic surfactants may be used in combination.

[0110] The expression "hydrocarbon-based chain" is intended to designate a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated organic group consisting primarily of hydrogen and carbon atoms, in which one or more carbon atoms may be replaced by an oxygen or nitrogen atom. Examples of C8-C30 hydrocarbon-based chains include C8-C30 acyl radicals.

[0111] Examples of amino acids include alanine, arginine, aspartic acid, glutamic acid, glycine, isoleucine, leucine, lysine, phenylalanine, serine, tyrosine, valine and sarcosine.

[0112] More specifically, the following compounds may be cited as anionic carboxylate surfactants selected from amino acid salts modified with at least one fatty chain: dipotassium capryloyl glutamate, dipotassium undecylenoyl glutamate, disodium capryloyl glutamate, disodium cocoyl glutamate, lauroyl glutamate disodium, disodium stearoyl glutamate, disodium undecylenoyl glutamate, potassium capryloyl glutamate, potassium cocoyl glutamate, potassium lauroyl glutamate, potassium myristoyl glutamate, potassium stearoyl glutamate, potassium undecylenoyl glutamate, sodium capryloyl glutamate, sodium cocoyl glutamate, sodium lauroyl glutamate, sodium myristoyl glutamate, sodium olivoyl glutamate, sodium palmitoyl glutamate, sodium stearoyl glutamate, sodium undecylenoyl glutamate, cocoyl methyl [3-alaninate], lauroyl [3-alaninate, lauroyl methyl [3-alaninate], myristoyl [3-alaninate, potassium lauroyl methyl [3-alaninate], sodium cocoyl alaninate, sodium cocoyl methyl [3-alaninate and myristoyl methyl [sodium 3-alaninate, palmitoyl glycinate, sodium lauroyl glycinate, sodium cocoyl glycinate, sodium myristoyl glycinate, potassium lauroyl glycinate, potassium cocoyl glycinate, potassium lauroyl sarcosinate,potassium cocoyl sarcosinate, sodium cocoyl sarcosinate, sodium lauroyl sarcosinate, sodium myristoyl sarcosinate, sodium oleoyl sarcosinate, sodium palmitoyl sarcosinate, ammonium lauroyl sarcosinate, sodium lauroyl aspartate, sodium myristoyl aspartate, sodium cocoyl aspartate, sodium caproyl aspartate, lauroyl aspartate disodium, myristoyl aspartate disodium, cocoyl aspartate disodium, caproyl aspartate disodium, lauroyl aspartate potassium, myristoyl aspartate potassium, cocoyl aspartate potassium, caproyl aspartate potassium, lauroyl aspartate dipotassium, myristoyl aspartate dipotassium, cocoyl aspartate dipotassium, caproyl aspartate dipotassium, and mixtures thereof. ,

[0113] According to a particular embodiment of the present invention, the anionic carboxylic surfactant(s) or carboxylate are chosen from compounds having the following structure (III): o (m) '"'W 'V' XY

[0114] in which: • Z represents a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched hydrocarbon-based group comprising 8 to 24 carbon atoms, preferably 8 to 22 carbon atoms, • X is a hydrogen atom or a methyl group; • n is equal to 0 or 1; • Y is a group chosen from a hydrogen atom and a group -CH3, -CH(CH3)2, -CH2CH(CH3)2, -CH(CH3)CH2CH3, -ch2c6h5, -ch2c2h4oh, -ch2 OH, -CH(OH)CH3, -(CH2)4NH2, -(CH2)3NHC(NH)NH2, -CH2C(O)OM+, -(CH2)2C(O)OH, and -(CH2)2C(O)O M+; and • M is a hydrogen atom or a cation, such as sodium, potassium, ammonium, or triethanolamine.

[0115] According to a preferred embodiment, in formula (III) above: • Z represents a linear or branched C8-C22 alkyl or alkenyl group; • X is a hydrogen atom or a methyl radical; • n is equal to 0; • Y is a hydrogen atom, a -(CH2)2C(O)OH group, or a -(CH2)2 C(O)O M+ group; and • M is a cation, such as sodium, potassium, ammonium, or triethanolamine.

[0116] According to a particular embodiment, the composition according to the present invention comprises at least one acyl glutamic acid (INCI name: acyl glutamic acid) or one of its salts (acyl glutamates).

[0117] Preferably, the acyl glutamic acid(s) is / are selected from acyl glutamic acids in which the acyl group comprises from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably from 10 to 24 carbon atoms and even more preferably from 12 to 22 carbon atoms, such as, for example, lauroylglutamic acid, myristoylglutamic acid, palmitoylglutamic acid, stearoylglutamic acid, behenoylglutamic acid, olivoylglutamic acid, cocoylglutamic acid, and salts of these acids, in particular salts of alkali metals such as Na, Li or K, preferably Na or K, salts of alkaline earth metals such as Mg, or ammonium salts of said acids.

[0118] Preferably, salts of amino acids modified with at least one C8-C30 hydrocarbon chain may be cited as glutamate salts, and in particular dipotassium capryloyl glutamate, dipotassium undecylenoyl glutamate, disodium capryloyl glutamate, disodium cocoyl glutamate, disodium lauroyl glutamate, disodium stearoyl glutamate, disodium undecylenoyl glutamate, potassium capryloyl glutamate, potassium cocoyl glutamate, potassium lauroyl glutamate, potassium myristoyl glutamate, potassium stearoyl glutamate, potassium undecylenoyl glutamate, sodium capryloyl glutamate, sodium cocoyl glutamate, sodium lauroyl glutamate, sodium myristoyl glutamate, olivoyl sodium glutamate, palmitoyl sodium glutamate, stearoyl sodium glutamate, undecylenoyl sodium glutamate.

[0119] Preferably, acylglutamic acid(s) or one of their salts is / are chosen from lauroylglutamic acids, cocoylglutamic acids, sodium stearoyl glutamate, potassium lauroyl glutamate, potassium cocoyl glutamate, sodium olivoyl glutamate and their mixtures.

[0120] More preferably, acyl glutamic acid or one of its salts is sodium stearoyl glutamate (INCI name).

[0121] These compounds are sold under the name Amisoft by Ajinomoto and in particular under the references Amisoft CA, Amisoft LA, Amisoft HS 11 PF, Amisoft MK-11, Amisoft LK-11 and Amisoft CK-11, or alternatively under the name Eumulgin SG by Cognis.

[0122] We can also mention triethanolamine cocoyl glutamate sold under the name Amisoft CT12 by Ajinomoto, and triethanolamine lauroyl glutamate sold under the name Acylglutamate LT-12 by Ajinomoto.

[0123] As acylglutamic acid salts, we can also mention sodium hydrogenated suifoyl glutamate, such as the product sold under the reference Acylglutamate HS 11 by Ajinomoto and disodium hydrogenated tallow glutamate, such as the product sold under the reference Acylglutamate HS-21 by Ajinomoto.

[0124] One can also mention commercial mixtures of surfactants comprising at least one derivative of glutamic acid or a salt of said derivative, for example the mixture of acyl glutamate salts such as Amisoft LS-22 sold by Ajinomoto.

[0125] According to a preferred embodiment of the present invention, the monosodium salt of n-stearoyl-L-glutamic acid (INCI name: sodium stearoyl glutamate), such as the product sold by Ajinomoto under the reference Amisoft HS 11 PF, is used.

[0126] In particular, it is preferable that the (d) carboxylic anionic surfactant or car-boxylate used in the composition according to the present invention be sodium stearoyl glutamate.

[0127] The quantity of the (d) anionic carboxylic surfactant(s) or carboxylate in the composition according to the present invention may be 0.01% by weight or more, preferably 0.05% by weight or more, more preferably 0.1% by weight or more, and even more preferably 0.3% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0128] Furthermore, the quantity of the (d) anionic carboxylic surfactant(s) or carboxylate in the composition according to the present invention may be 10% by weight or less, preferably 5% by weight or less, and more preferably 1% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0129] Thus, the quantity of the (d) anionic carboxylic surfactant(s) or carboxylate in the composition according to the present invention can range from 0.01% to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 5% by weight, more preferably from 0.1% to 1% by weight, and even more preferably from 0.3% to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. (C12-C24 saturated fatty alcohol)

[0130] The composition according to the present invention may further comprise (e) at least one C12-C24 saturated fatty alcohol. Only one type of C12-C24 saturated fatty alcohol may be used, but two or more different types of C12-C24 saturated fatty alcohol may be used in combination.

[0131] The (e) saturated C12-C24 fatty alcohol may be linear or branched, and preferably linear. Preferably, the (e) saturated C12-C24 fatty alcohol comprises from 14 to 22 carbon atoms.

[0132] The (e) C12-C24 saturated fatty alcohol suitable for use in the present invention is preferably selected from cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, cetearyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, lauric alcohol, tridecyl alcohol, pentadecyl alcohol, hexadecyl alcohol, arachidyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol and mixtures thereof.

[0133] It is more preferable that the (e) C12-C24 saturated fatty alcohol be chosen from the group consisting of cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol and cetearyl alcohol.

[0134] As cetyl alcohols which may be particularly suitable for a use For use in the present invention, one can use, for example, the products sold under the names Ecorol® 16 / 98 F and Ecorol® 16 / 98 P sold by Ecogreen Oleochemicals, Togoalkanol® 16 sold by Evonik Goldschmidt, Lanette® 16 sold by Cognis, Vegarol® 1698 sold by WF, Alkonat® 1698 P sold by Oxiteno, Cetyl Alcohol 98% Min sold by Emery Oleochemicals, Ginol® 16 (98%) sold by Godrej Industries, Nacol® 16-98 sold by Sasol, Kalcol® 6098 sold by Kao, and Acilol® 16 sold by Aegis Chemical.

[0135] As stearyl alcohols which are particularly suitable for use In the present invention, one can use, for example, those sold under the names Tegoalkanol® 18 sold by Evonik Goldschmidt, Ecorol® 18 / 98 F and Ecorol® 18 / 98 P sold by Ecogreen Oleochemicals, Lanette® 18 sold by Cognis, Kalcol® 8098 sold by Kao, Acilol® 18 sold by Aegis Chemical, Nacol® 18-98 sold by Sasol and NAA® sold by Nihon Yushi.

[0136] As cetearyl (cetylstearyl) alcohols suitable for any particular Related to use in the present invention, one may use, for example, those sold under the names Ecorol® 68 / 50 F and Ecorol® 68 / 50 P sold by Ecogreen Oleochemicals, Lanette® O OR and Lanette® O OR Flakes sold by Cognis, Alkonat® 1618 C50 P sold by Oxiteno, Nafol® 16-18 EN sold by Sasol, Alcohol Cetoestearilico 50 / 50 sold by Industria Quimica Del Centre, Conol® 30 CK sold by New Japan Chemical, Ce- tylstearyl Alcohol 50:50 sold by Evonik Goldschmidt, Kalcol® 6850 sold by Kao, Vegarol® 1618 (50:50) sold by WF and Ginol® 1618 50:50 OR sold by Godrej Industries.

[0137] The quantity of the saturated fatty alcohol(s) in Ci2-C24 in the composition according to the present invention may be 0.1% by weight or more, preferably 0.5% by weight or more, more preferably 1% by weight or more, and even more preferably 2% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0138] Furthermore, the quantity of the saturated fatty alcohol(s) in Ci2-C24 in the composition according to the present invention may be 15% by weight or less, preferably 10% by weight or less, and more preferably 5% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0139] Thus, the quantity of the saturated fatty alcohol(s) in Ci2-C24 in the composition according to the present invention can range from 0.1% to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.5% to 10% by weight, more preferably from 1% to 5% by weight, and even more preferably from 2% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. (Water)

[0140] The composition according to the present invention may include (f) water.

[0141] The quantity of (f) water in the composition according to the present invention can be 30% by weight or more, preferably 40% by weight or more, and more preferably 50% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0142] Furthermore, the quantity of (f) water in the composition according to the present invention may be 90% by weight or less, preferably 80% by weight or less, and more preferably 70% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0143] The quantity of (f) water in the composition according to the present invention may range from 30% to 90% by weight, preferably from 40% to 80% by weight, more preferably from 50% to 70% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. (Oil)

[0144] The composition according to the present invention may comprise (g) at least one oil. If two or more oils are used, they may be identical or different.

[0145] Here, "oil" means a fatty compound or oily substance that is in the form of a liquid or a paste (not a solid) at room temperature (25 °C) under atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg). Oils commonly used in cosmetics can be used alone or in combination. These oils can be volatile or non-volatile.

[0146] The (g) oil may be a non-polar oil such as a hydrocarbon oil, a silicone oil or similar; a polar oil such as a vegetable or animal oil and an ester oil or an ether oil; or a mixture thereof.

[0147] The (g) oil may be chosen from the group consisting of oils of vegetable or animal origin, synthetic oils, silicone oils and hydrocarbon oils.

[0148] Examples of vegetable oils include, for example, linseed oil, camellia oil, macadamia nut oil, corn oil, mink oil, olive oil, avocado oil, sasanqua oil, castor oil, safflower oil, jojoba oil, sunflower oil, almond oil, rapeseed oil, sesame oil, soybean oil, peanut oil, and mixtures thereof.

[0149] Examples of animal oils include, for example, squalene and squalane.

[0150] Examples of synthetic oils include alkane oils such as isododecane and isohexadecane, ester oils, ether oils and artificial triglycerides.

[0151] The ester oils are preferably liquid esters of saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, aliphatic monoacids or polyacids in Ci_C26 and of saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, aliphatic monoalcohols or polyalcohols in Ci C2e, the total number of carbon atoms of the esters being greater than or equal to 10.

[0152] Preferably, for monoalcohol esters, at least one of the alcohol and acid from which the esters are derived is branched.

[0153] Among the monoesters of monoacids and monoalcohols, ethyl palmitate, ethylhexyl palmitate, isopropyl palmitate, di-caprylyl carbonate, alkyl myristates such as isopropyl myristate or ethyl myristate, isocetyl stearate, 2-ethylhexyl isononanoate, isononyl isononanoate, isodecyl neopentanoate and isostearyl neopentanoate may be mentioned.

[0154] Esters of C4-C22 dicarboxylic or tricarboxylic acids and Ci-C22 alcohols, and esters of monocarboxylic, dicarboxylic or tricarboxylic acids and non-sugar C4-C26 dihydroxy, trihydroxy, tetrahydroxy or pentahydroxy alcohols may also be used.

[0155] Examples include: diethyl sebacate; isopropyl lauroyl sarcosinate; diisopropyl sebacate; bis(2-ethylhexyl) sebacate; diisopropyl adipate; di-n-propyl adipate; dioctyl adipate; bis(2-ethylhexyl) adipate; diisostearyl adipate; bis(2-ethylhexyl) maleate; triisopropyl citrate; trii-socetyl citrate; triisostearyl citrate; glyceryl trilactate; glyceryl trioctanoate; trioctyldodecyl citrate; trioleyl citrate; neopentyl glycol diheptanoate; diethylene glycol dii-sononanoate.

[0156] As ester oils, esters and sugar diesters of C6-C30 fatty acids and preferably C2-C22 fatty acids may be used. It should be noted that the term "sugar" refers to Compounds based on oxygen-bearing hydrocarbons containing multiple alcohol groups, with or without aldehyde or ketone groups, and comprising at least 4 carbon atoms. These sugars can be monosaccharides, oligosaccharides, or polysaccharides.

[0157] Examples of suitable sugars that may be cited include sucrose, glucose, galactose, ribose, fucose, maltose, fructose, mannose, arabinose, xylose and lactose, and their derivatives, including alkyl derivatives, such as methyl derivatives, for example methylglucose.

[0158] Sugar esters of fatty acids may be selected in particular from the group comprising esters or mixtures of esters of the sugars described above and of C6-C30 fatty acids, and preferably of linear or branched C12-C22 fatty acids, saturated or unsaturated. If unsaturated, these compounds may have one to three conjugated or non-conjugated carbon-carbon double bonds.

[0159] The esters according to this variant can also be chosen from monoesters, diesters, triesters, tetraesters and polyesters, and mixtures thereof.

[0160] These esters may be, for example, oleates, laurates, palmitates, myristates, behenates, cocoates, stearates, linoleates, linolenates, caprates and arachidonates, or mixtures thereof such as, in particular, mixed esters of oleopalmitate, oleostearate and palmitostearate, as well as pentaerythrityl tetraethyl hexanoate.

[0161] More particularly, monoesters and diesters are used, and in particular monooleates or dioleates, stearates, behenates, oleopalmitates, linoleates, linolenates and oleostearates of sucrose, glucose or methylglucose.

[0162] An example that can be cited is the product sold under the name Glucate® DO by the company Amerchol, which is a methylglucose dioleate.

[0163] By way of examples of preferred ester oils, one may cite, for example, diisopropyl adipate, dioctyl adipate, 2-ethylhexyl hexanoate, ethyl laurate, cetyl octanoate, octyldodecyl octanoate, isodecyl neopentanoate, myristyle propionate, 2-ethylhexyl 2-ethylhexanoate, 2-ethylhexyl octanoate, 2-ethylhexyl caprylate / caprate, methyl palmitate, ethyl palmitate, isopropyl palmitate, dicaprylyl carbonate, isopropyl lauroyl sarcosinate, isononyl isononanoate, ethylhexyl palmitate, the isohexyl laurate, hexyl laurate, isocetyl stearate, isopropyl isostearate, isopropyl myristate, isodecyl oleate, glyceryl tri(2-ethylhexanoate), pentaerythrityl tetra(2-ethylhexanoate), 2-ethylhexyl succinate, diethyl sebacate and mixtures thereof.

[0164] Examples of artificial triglycerides include, for example, caprylyl glycerides, glyceryl trimyristate, glyceryl tripalmitate, glyceryl trilinolenate, glyceryl trilaurate, glyceryl tricaprate, tri- glyceryl caprylate, glyceryl tri(caprate / caprylate) and glyceryl tri(caprate / caprylate / linolenate).

[0165] Examples of silicone oils include, for example, linear organopolysiloxanes such as dimethylpolysiloxane, methylphenylpolysiloxane, methylhydrogenopolysiloxane and the like; cyclic organopolysiloxanes such as cyclohexasiloxane, octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, decamethylcyclopenta-siloxane, dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane, and the like; and mixtures thereof.

[0166] Preferably, the silicone oil is chosen from among liquid polydialkylsiloxanes, in particular liquid polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS) and liquid polyorganosiloxanes comprising at least one aryl group.

[0167] These silicone oils can also be organo-modified. The organo-modified silicones that can be used for the present invention are silicone oils as defined above, and comprise in their structure one or more organofunctional groups attached via a hydrocarbon-based group.

[0168] Organopolysiloxanes are defined in more detail in Chemistry and Technology of Silicones by Walter Noll (1968), Academy Press. They can be volatile or non-volatile.

[0169] When volatile, silicones are particularly chosen from those having a boiling point between 60 °C and 260 °C, and even more particularly from:

[0170] (i) cyclic polydialkylsiloxanes comprising 3 to 7 and preferably 4 to 5 silicon atoms. These include, for example, octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, sold in particular under the name Volatile Silicone® 7207 by Union Carbide or Silbione® 70045 V2 by Rhodia; decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, sold under the name Volatile Silicone® 7158 by Union Carbide and Silbione® 70045 V5 by Rhodia; and dodecamethylcyclopentasiloxane, sold under the name Silsoft 1217 by Momentive Performance Materials, and mixtures thereof. Also noteworthy are cyclocopolymers of the dimethylsiloxane / methylalkylsiloxane type, such as Silicone Volatile® FZ 3109, sold by Union Carbide, with the formula: ।— D’t: — D’--D” - D’--- CH,. --------------------------- CH, rr with: D5S: —Si-U — and with DU -St-O — CH, CsH,t

[0171] Other examples include mixtures of cyclic polydialkylsiloxanes with organosilicon compounds, such as the mixture of octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane and tetratrimethylsilylpentaerythritol (50 / 50) and the mixture of octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane and d'oxy-l,r-bis(2,2,2',2',3,3'-hexatrimethylsilyloxy)neopentane; and

[0172] (ii) linear volatile polydialkylsiloxanes containing 2 to 9 silicon atoms and having a viscosity less than or equal to 5 x 10⁶ m² / s at 25 °C. An example is deca-methyltetrasiloxane, sold in particular under the name SH 200 by Toray Silicone. Silicones belonging to this category are also described in the article published in Cosmetics and Toiletries, Vol. 91, Jan. 1976, pp. 27–32, Todd & Byers, Volatile Silicone Fluids for Cosmetics. The viscosity of silicones is measured at 25 °C according to ASTM 445 Annex C.

[0173] Non-volatile polydialkylsiloxanes can also be used. These non-volatile silicones are more particularly chosen from among the polydialkylsiloxanes, among which the main examples are polydimethylsiloxanes containing trimethylsilyl terminal groups.

[0174] Among these polydialkylsiloxanes, the following commercial products may be cited, without limitation: - Silbione® oils from the 47 and 70 047 ranges or Mirasil® oils sold by Rhodia, for example oil 70 047 V 500 000; - the oils from the Mirasil® range sold by the company Rhodia; - oils from the Dow Corning 200 series, such as DC200 with a viscosity of 60,000 mm² / s; and - Viscasil® oils from General Electric and certain oils from the SF range (SF 96, SF 18) from General Electric.

[0175] We can also mention polydimethylsiloxanes containing dimethylsilanol terminal groups known as dimethiconol (CTFA), such as the oils in the 48 range from the Rhodia company.

[0176] Among silicones containing aryl groups, we can mention polydiarylsiloxanes, in particular polydiphenylsiloxanes and polyalkylarylsiloxanes such as phenyl silicone oil.

[0177] The phenyl silicone oil may be selected from phenyl silicones of the following formula:

[0178] in which • Ri in Rio are, independently of each other, C1-C30 hydrocarbon-based radicals, preferably C1-C12 hydrocarbon-based radicals, and more preferably saturated or unsaturated, linear, cyclic or branched CrC6 hydrocarbon-based radicals, in particular methyl, ethyl, propyl or butyl radicals, and • m, n, p and q are, independently of each other, integers from 0 to 900 inclusive, preferably from 0 to 500 inclusive, and more preferably from 0 to 100 inclusive,

[0179] provided that the sum n+m+q is different from 0.

[0180] Examples that may be cited include products sold under the following names: - Silbione® oils from the 70 641 range by Rhodia; - the oils from the Rhodorsil® 70 633 and 763 ranges from Rhodia; - Dow Corning 556 Cosmetic Grade Fluid oil from Dow Corning; - silicones from Bayer's PK range, such as the PK20 product; - certain oils from General Electric's SF range, such as SF 1023, SF 1154, SF 1250 and SF 1265.

[0181] As a phenyl silicone oil, phenyl trimethicone (Ri to Rio are a methyl; p, qetn = 0; m=l in the formula above) is preferable.

[0182] Hydrocarbon oils may be selected from: - C5-cyclin or branched alkanes, optionally cyclic. Examples that can be cited include hexane, undecane, dodecane, tridecane, and isoparaffins, for example isohexadecane, isododecane, and isodecane; and - linear or branched hydrocarbons containing more than 16 carbon atoms, such as liquid paraffins, liquid petroleum jelly, hydrogenated polydecenes and polyisobutenes such as Parleam® and squalane.

[0183] Preferred examples of hydrocarbon oils include, for example, linear or branched hydrocarbons such as isohexadecane, isododecane, squalane, mineral oil (e.g., liquid paraffin), paraffin, Vaseline or petrolatum, naphthalenes, and the like; hydrogenated polyisobutene, isoeicosane and decene / butene copolymer; and mixtures thereof.

[0184] It is also preferable that the (g) oil be chosen from oils with a molecular weight of less than 600 g / mol.

[0185] Preferably, the (g) oil has a low molecular weight such as less than 600 g / mol, selected from ester oils with one or more short hydrocarbon chains (C1-C12) (e.g., isopropyl lauroyl sarcosinate, isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, isononyl isononanoate, and ethylhexyl palmitate), silicone oils (e.g., volatile silicones such as cyclohexasiloxane), the hydrocarbon oils (e.g. isododecane, isohexadecane and squalane), and ether oils such as dicaprylyl ether.

[0186] The (g) oil may be chosen from polar oils, preferably from ester oils, and more preferably from the group consisting of isopropyl myristate, diisopropyl sebacate and one of their mixtures.

[0187] The quantity of the (g) oil(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 1% by weight or more, preferably 3% by weight or more, and more preferably 5% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0188] Furthermore, the quantity of the (g) oil(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 50% by weight or less, preferably 45% by weight or less, and more preferably 40% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0189] The quantity of the (g) oil(s) in the composition according to the present invention may range from 1% to 50% by weight, preferably from 3% to 45% by weight, more preferably from 5% to 40% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. (Gemini surfactant)

[0190] The composition according to the present invention may comprise (h) at least one gemini surfactant. Only one type of gemini surfactant may be used, but two or more different types of gemini surfactants may be used in combination.

[0191] The (h) gemini surfactant is different from the (d) carboxylic anionic surfactant or carboxylate explained above.

[0192] The (h) gemini surfactant or dimeric surfactants used for the present invention are well known. For a detailed description of the various chemical structures and their physicochemical properties, reference may be made to the following publications:

[0193] Milton J. Rosen, Gemini Surfactants, Properties of surfactant molecules with two hydrophilic groups and two hydrophobic groups, Cosmetics & Toiletries magazine, Vol. 113, December 1998, pp. 49-55; And

[0194] Milton J. Rosen, Recent Developments in Gemini Surfactants, Allured's Cosmetics & Toiletries magazine, July 2001, Vol. 116, no. 7, pp. 67-70.

[0195] The (h)gemini surfactant may be selected from compounds with two or more fatty amide groups (hereinafter referred to as the "amide compound"). The amide compound may be represented by the following formula (A): y (A) CHs(CHPi — CO NH ÇH j^O CH ~ Y' (CH^ NH pO (CH^a CHgîCHgï^COWH -ÇH (CH^ Y*

[0196] in which • Y1 independently designates a carboxylic acid group or an alkali salt of a carboxylic acid group such as a sodium salt of a carboxylic acid group, • j1, k1, j2 and k2 denote an integer such that (j1, k1, j2, k2) = any one of (2,0,2,0), (2,0,0,2), (0,2,2,0) and (0,2,0,2), and • 1 denotes an integer from 6 to 16, preferably from 8 to 14, and more preferably tiellement from 10 to 12.

[0197] Preferably, in formula (A), L denotes an integer from 8 to 12, j1 = j2 = 0 and kl = k2 = 2.

[0198] Most preferably, in formula (A), Y1 is -COONa, j1 = j2 = 0, kl = k2 = 2; and L = 10.

[0199] The amide compound can be prepared, for example, by reacting a long-chain acidic n-acyl amino acid anhydride with a basic amino acid, such as lysine, in water and / or a mixed solvent of water and organic solvent(s), or in one or more inert organic solvents such as tetrahydrofuran, benzene, toluene, xylene, tetrachloromethane, chloroform, acetone or the like, or without any solvent, at -5 °C to 200 °C, preferably 5 °C to 100 °C, and more preferably 0 °C to 60 °C.

[0200] Examples of amide compounds include dilauramidoglutamide sodium lysine, dimyristoylglutamide sodium lysine and distearoylglutamide sodium lysine.

[0201] Dilauramidoglutamide sodium lysine is particularly preferred. Dilauramidoglutamide sodium lysine is marketed under the names Pellicer L-10 and L-30 by Asahi Kasei Fine Chem. Col., Ltd. as an aqueous solution at a concentration of 29% by weight relative to the total weight of the aqueous solution; or under the name Pellicer LB-30G by Asahi Kasei Fine Chem. Co., Ltd. as a mixture of dilauramidoglutamide sodium lysine and butylene glycol.

[0202] In another embodiment, the (h) gemini surfactants may also conform to the following formula (I):

[0203] in which: • Ri and R3 represent, independently of each other, an alkyl radical comprising 1 to 25 carbon atoms; • R2 represents a spacer group consisting of a linear or branched alkylene chain containing 1 to 12 carbon atoms; • X and Y represent, independently of each other, a group -(C2H4O)a-(C3H6O)bZ, in which: • Z represents a hydrogen atom or the radical -CH2-COOM, -SO3M, -P(O)(OM)2, -C2H4-SO3M, -C3H6-SO3M or -CH2(CHOH)4CH2OH, where M represents H or an alkali metal or alkaline earth metal or ammonium or alkanolammonium ion, • a varies from 0 to 15, b varies from 0 to 10, and the sum of a+b varies from 1 to 25; and • n varies from 1 to 10.

[0204] The gemini surfactant of formula (I) is preferably such that each of the Ri groups - CO- and R3-CO- comprise 8 to 20 carbon atoms, and preferably represent a coconut fatty acid residue (mainly lauric acid and myristic acid).

[0205] Moreover, this surfactant is preferably such that, for each of the radicals X and Y, the sum of a and ba has an average value that varies from 10 to 20 and is preferably equal to 15. A preferred group for Z is the —SO3M group, where M is preferably an alkali metal ion such as the sodium ion.

[0206] The spacer R2 advantageously consists of a linear alkylene chain CrC3 and preferably an ethylene chain (CH2CH2). Finally, n is advantageously equal to 1.

[0207] A surfactant of this type is in particular that identified by the INCI name: Sodium di-cocoylethylenediamine PEG-15 sulfate, having the following structure: O [I UPEG-15)—«Oî Na cocoyl •—-C—N O2 CIE cocoyl — CN ^(pEG.45) —SO4Na O

[0208] it being understood that PEG represents the group -CH2CH2O and that "cocoyl" represents the fatty acid residue of coconut.

[0209] This surfactant has a molecular structure that is very similar to that of ceramide-3.

[0210] Preferably, the gemini surfactant of formula (I) can be used in mixture with other surfactants and, in particular, in mixture with (a) an ester of a C6-C22 fatty acid (preferably Ci4-C20 such as stearate) and glyceryl, (b) a diester of a C6-C22 fatty acid (preferably Ci4-C20 such as stearate) and citric acid and glycerol (in particular an ester of a C6-C22 fatty acid and glyceryl monocitrate), and (c) a C10-C30 fatty alcohol (preferably behenyl alcohol).

[0211] Advantageously, the composition according to the present invention comprises a mixture of sodium PEG-15 dicocoylethylenediamine sulfate, glyceryl stearate, glyceryl stearate monocitrate and behenyl alcohol.

[0212] For example, the Gemini surfactant of formula (I) can be used in mixture with other surfactants in the form of products sold by Sasol under the trade name Ceralution®, such as in particular the following products:

[0213] Ceralution® H: Behenyl Alcohol, Glyceryl Stearate, Glyceryl Stearate Citrate and Sodium Dicocoylethylenediamine PEG-15 Sulfate (INCI name),

[0214] Ceralution® F: Sodium Lauroyl Lactylate and Sodium Dicocoylethylenediamine PEG-15 Sulfate (INCI name),

[0215] Ceralution® C: Aqua, Capric / Caprylic triglyceride, Glycerin, Ceteareth-25, Sodium Dicocoylethylenediamine PEG-15 Sulfate, Sodium Lauroyl Lactylate, Behenyl Alcohol, Glyceryl Stearate, Glyceryl Stearate Citrate, Arabia Gum, Xanthan Gum, Phenoxyethanol, Methylparaben, Ethylparaben, Butylparaben, Isobutylparaben (INCI name).

[0216] The gemini surfactant of formula (I) may represent from 3% to 50% by weight of the above mixtures. Preferably, the composition according to the present invention may comprise, as gemini surfactant of formula (I), a raw material bearing the INCI name: Behenyl alcohol, glyceryl stearate, glyceryl stearate citrate and sodium dicocoylethylenediamine PEG-15 sulfate, sold under the trade name Ceralution® H by Sasol.

[0217] The quantity of the gemini surfactant(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 0.01% by weight or more, preferably 0.05% by weight or more, and more preferably 0.1% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0218] Furthermore, the quantity of the (h) gemini surfactant(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 10% by weight or less, preferably 5% by weight or less, and more preferably 1% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0219] Thus, the quantity of the (h) gemini surfactant(s) in the composition according to the present invention can range from 0.01% to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 5% by weight, and more preferably from 0.1% to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. (Extra wax)

[0220] The composition according to the present invention may comprise at least one additional wax. Only one type of additional wax may be used, but two or more different types of additional waxes may be used in combination.

[0221] The additional wax is different from (b) jojoba ester wax explained above.

[0222] For the purposes of the present invention, the term "wax" refers to a deformable or undeformable lipophilic compound that is solid at room temperature (25 °C), with a reversible solid-liquid phase change, and a melting point greater than or equal to 30 °C, which may extend up to 120 °C. In particular, waxes suitable for use in the present invention may have a melting point greater than or equal to 60 °C and, in particular, greater than or equal to 70 °C.

[0223] The term “lipophilic compound” means a compound having an acid number and a hydroxyl number of less than 150 mg KOH / g.

[0224] For the purposes of the present invention, the melting point corresponds to the temperature of the most endothermic peak observed on the thermal analysis (DSC) as described in ISO 11357-3; 1999. The melting point of the wax can be measured using a differential scanning calorimeter (DSC), for example the calorimeter sold under the name MDSC 2920 by TA Instruments or the calorimeter sold under the name DSC Q100 by TA Instruments with the TA Universal Analysis software.

[0225] The measurement protocol is as follows:

[0226] A 5 mg sample of wax placed in a crucible is subjected to a first temperature ramp from -20 °C to 100 °C at a heating rate of 10 °C / minute. It is then cooled from 100 °C to -20 °C at a cooling rate of 10 °C / minute and finally subjected to a second temperature ramp from -20 °C to 100 °C at a heating rate of 5 °C / minute. During the second temperature ramp, the variation in the difference in power absorbed by the empty crucible and The power absorbed by the crucible containing the wax sample is measured as a function of temperature. The melting point of the compound is the temperature value corresponding to the peak of the curve representing the variation of the power absorbed as a function of temperature.

[0227] Additional waxes may be hydrocarbon waxes, silicone waxes and / or fluoro waxes, and may be of vegetable, animal, mineral and / or synthetic origin.

[0228] As additional waxes, hydrocarbon-based waxes, for example beeswax, lanolin wax or Chinese insect wax; rice wax, camauba wax, candelilla wax, ouricury wax, esparto wax, cork fiber wax, sugar cane wax, Japanese wax and sumac wax, helianthus annuus (sunflower) seed wax; montan wax, microcrystalline waxes, paraffins and ozokerite; polyethylene waxes, polymethylene waxes, waxes obtained by Fisher-Tropsch synthesis and waxy copolymers, as well as their esters, may in particular be used.

[0229] Examples include beeswax, for example the product sold under the name White Bee Wax BR G889 by Koster Keunen, camauba wax, for example sold under the name Cerauba Tl Bio by the company Baerlocher, helianthus annuus (sunflower) seed wax sold under the name Sunflower Wax by the company Koster Keunen, or one of their mixtures.

[0230] It is preferable that the additional wax be chosen from vegetable waxes, and more preferably that it be helianthus annuus (sunflower) seed wax.

[0231] The quantity of the additional wax(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 0.01% by weight or more, preferably 0.05% by weight or more, and more preferably 0.1% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0232] Furthermore, the quantity of the additional wax(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 10% by weight or less, preferably 5% by weight or less, and more preferably 1% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0233] Thus, the quantity of the additional wax(s) in the composition according to the present invention can range from 0.01% to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 5% by weight and more preferably from 0.1% to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. (Optional additional ingredients)

[0234] The composition according to the present invention may also include an effective amount of additional optional ingredient(s), already known previously in cosmetic compositions, for example, anionic surfactants, ca tionics or amphoteric; organic and inorganic powders such as fillers; thickeners; sequestering agents such as EDTA and trisodium ethylenediamine disuccinate; preservatives; vitamins or provitamins, for example tocopherol and panthenol; perfumes; plant extracts; etc.

[0235] The composition according to the present invention may include one or more cosmetically acceptable organic solvents, which may be alcohols: in particular monovalent alcohols such as ethyl alcohol, isopropyl alcohol, benzyl alcohol, phenoxyethanol and phenylethyl alcohol; diols such as ethylene glycol, caprylyl glycol, propylene glycol, dipropylene glycol and butylene glycol; other polyols such as glycerol, polyglycerol, sugar and sugar alcohols; and ethers such as monomethyl, monoethyl and monobutyl ethers of ethylene glycol, monomethyl, monoethyl and monobutyl ethers of propylene glycol and monomethyl, monoethyl and monobutyl ethers of butylene glycol.

[0236] The organic solvent(s) may be present in the composition according to the present invention in an amount ranging from 0.0001% by weight or more, preferably 0.0005% by weight or more, and more preferably 0.001% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0237] The organic solvent(s) may be present in the composition according to the present invention in an amount of 20% by weight or less, preferably 15% by weight or less, and more preferably 10% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0238] The organic solvent(s) may be present in the composition according to the present invention in an amount from 0.0001% to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.0005% to 15% by weight, and more preferably from 0.001% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. (Methods of implementation)

[0239] According to a particularly preferred particular embodiment, the composition according to the present invention comprises, in relation to the total weight of the composition: i. 1% to 5% by weight of (a) at least two fatty acid polyglyceryl esters in which at least one of the (a) at least two fatty acid polyglyceryl esters has at least two hydroxyl groups in its polyglyceryl fraction; ii. 0.1% to 1% by weight of (b) at least one jojoba ester wax of formula (II):

[0240] R1-COO-CH2-R1 (II)

[0241] in which

[0242] R1 is CH3-(CH2)y-, and y is worth 16, 18, 20 or 22; i. 0.1% to 1% by weight of (c) at least one C12-C24 fatty acid ester of a C2-C24 polyol selected from glyceryl laurate, glyceryl oleate, glyceryl stearate, glyceryl palmitate and mixtures thereof; and ii. 0.1% to 1% by weight of (d) at least one anionic carboxylic surfactant or carboxylate chosen from among the glutamates.

[0243] The composition according to the present invention in the form of the particularly preferred embodiment above may further comprise, relative to the total weight of the composition, any one, preferably all of the following: i. 1% to 5% by weight of (e) at least one C12-C24 saturated fatty alcohol chosen from cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol and cetearyl alcohol; ii. 0.1% to 1% by weight of at least one additional wax, other than (b) jojoba ester wax, selected from vegetable waxes, preferably helianthus annuus (sunflower) seed wax; iii. from 0.001% to 10% by weight of at least one polyol, preferably chosen from glycerol and polyglycerol; and iv. from 0.001% to 10% by weight of vitamins such as tocopherol.

[0244] The composition according to the present invention in the form of the particularly preferred embodiment above may further comprise, relative to the total weight of the composition, any one, preferably all of the following: i. 50% to 70% by weight of (f) water; and ii. 5% to 40% by weight of (g) at least one oil.

[0245] The composition according to the present invention in the form of the particularly preferred embodiment above may further comprise: i. 0.1% to 1% by weight of at least one gemini surfactant, other than (d) anionic carboxylic or carboxylate surfactant.

[0246] According to a particular embodiment of the present invention, the composition according to the present invention may comprise, as ingredients (b) to (e), together with the additional wax, a mixture of glyceryl stearate, sodium steroyl glutamate, cetearyl alcohol, jojoba esters and sunflower seed wax, bearing the INCI name Cetearyl Alcohol (and) Jojoba Esters (and) Glyceryl Stearate (and) Sodium Stearoyl Glutamate (and) Helianthus Annuus Seed Cera (and) Poly-glycerin-3, sold under the name Emulium® Dolcea MB by Gattefosse. (Preparation)

[0247] The composition according to the present invention can be prepared by mixing the essential ingredient(s) as explained above, and the optional ingredient(s), if necessary, as explained above.

[0248] The process and means for mixing the above essential and optional ingredients are not limited. Any conventional process and means may be used for Mix the essential and optional ingredients listed above to prepare the composition according to the present invention. The conventional process and means may include a homogenizer, for example, a turbine mixer. (Shape)

[0249] The composition according to the present invention can be in various forms.

[0250] Since the composition according to the present invention includes (b) jojoba ester wax(s), which may be similar to oil(s), if the composition according to the present invention includes (f) water, the composition according to the present invention may be in the form of an emulsion, preferably an O / W emulsion or a W / O emulsion, and more preferably an O / W emulsion.

[0251] If the composition according to the present invention includes (g) at least one oil and (f) water, the composition according to the present invention can of course be in the form of an emulsion, preferably an H / W emulsion or a W / O emulsion, and more preferably an H / W emulsion.

[0252] The composition according to the present invention, in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion, comprises dispersed fatty phases such as oily phases dispersed in a continuous aqueous phase. The dispersed fatty phases may be in the form of oil droplets in the aqueous phase.

[0253] The appearance of the composition according to the present invention in the form of an emulsion may be transparent or translucent. [Process and use]

[0254] It is preferable that the composition according to the present invention be a cosmetic composition, and more preferably a cosmetic composition for a keratinous substance such as skin.

[0255] The composition according to the present invention can be used for a non-therapeutic process, such as a cosmetic process, of treating a keratinous substance such as skin, hair, mucous membranes, nails, eyelashes, eyebrows and / or scalp, by being applied to the keratinous substance.

[0256] Thus, the present invention also relates to a cosmetic process for treating a keratinous substance, preferably of the skin, comprising the step of applying the composition according to the present invention to the keratinous substance.

[0257] The present invention may also relate to a use of the composition according to the present invention as a cosmetic product or in a cosmetic product such as skincare products, for the skin of the body and / or face and / or mucous membranes and / or scalp and / or hair and / or nails and / or eyelashes and / or eyebrows.

[0258] In other words, the composition according to the present invention can be used, as is, as a cosmetic product. Alternatively, the composition according to the present invention can be used as an element of a cosmetic product. For example, the composition according to the present invention can be added to or combined with any other element to form a cosmetic product.

[0259] The care product may be a lotion, a cream and the like.

[0260] The present invention may also relate to a use of (a) at least two fatty acid polyglyceryl esters in which at least one of the (a) at least two fatty acid polyglyceryl esters has at least two hydroxyl groups in its polyglyceryl fraction

[0261] in a composition comprising:

[0262] (b) at least one jojoba ester wax;

[0263] (c) at least one C2-C24 fatty acid ester of a C2-C24 polyol;

[0264] (d) at least one anionic carboxylic or carboxylate surfactant selected from the Amino acids modified with at least one C8-C30 hydrocarbon chain and their salts; and

[0265] optionally

[0266] (e) at least one fatty alcohol saturated with Ci2-C24,

[0267] in order to stabilize the composition and / or improve the sensation of penetration provided by the composition when applied to a keratinous substance such as skin.

[0268] The present invention may also relate to a use of:

[0269] (b) at least one jojoba ester wax;

[0270] (c) at least one C[2-C24] fatty acid ester of a C2-C24 polyol;

[0271] (d) at least one anionic carboxylic or carboxylate surfactant selected from the Amino acids modified with at least one C8-C30 hydrocarbon chain and their salts; and

[0272] optionally

[0273] (e) at least one C[2-C24; saturated fatty alcohol

[0274] in a composition comprising (a) at least two fatty acid polyglyceryl esters in which at least one of the (a) at least two fatty acid polyglyceryl esters has at least two hydroxyl groups in its polyglyceryl fraction,

[0275] in order to stabilize the composition and / or to cause a rich sensation provided by the composition when applied to a keratinous substance such as the skin.

[0276] It may be preferable that the composition used in the above use according to the present invention includes (f) water.

[0277] It may be preferable that the composition used in the above use according to the present invention includes (g) at least one oil.

[0278] It may be preferable that the composition used in the above use according to the present invention includes (h) at least one gemini surfactant.

[0279] The composition used in the above use according to the present invention may include any other optional ingredient, as mentioned above.

[0280] The explanations concerning ingredients (a) to (d), as well as ingredients (e) to (h) and other optional ingredients, for the composition according to the present invention can be applied to those in the composition used in the above use according to the present invention. EXAMPLES

[0281] The present invention will be described in more detail by means of examples which, however, should not be interpreted as limiting the scope of the present invention. [Example 1 and Comparative Examples 1 to 3]

[0282] The following compositions, in the form of an O / W emulsion, according to Example 1 and Comparative Examples 1 to 3 shown in Table 1, were prepared by mixing the components shown in Table 1 as follows: 1. Mixing the ingredients from rows A of Table 1 at 75 to 80 °C to form a uniform mixture (Phase A); 2. Mixing the ingredients from lines B of Table 1 at 75 to 80 °C to form a uniform mixture (Phase B); 3. Addition of the uniform mixture (Phase B) to the uniform mixture (Phase A), followed by their homogenization at 75 to 80 °C to obtain a uniform mixture (Phases A and B); 4. Addition of the ingredients from rows C of Table 1 to the uniform mixture (Phases A and B), followed by their homogenization at 75 to 80 °C to obtain a uniform mixture (Phases A, B and C); 5. Cooling of the uniform mixture (Phases A, B and C) to 30 °C; 6. Add the ingredients from rows D to F of Table 1 to the uniform mixture (Phases A, B and C), followed by their homogenization at 30 °C to obtain a uniform mixture (phases A to F); and 7. Cooling the uniform mixture (Phases A to F) to room temperature to obtain a composition according to any one of Example 1 and Comparative Examples 1 to 3.

[0283] The numerical values ​​of the quantities of components shown in Table 1 are all based on "% by weight" of raw materials. Items (a) to (g) in Table 1 correspond to those of the claims.

[0284] [Tables2] Phase e Ingredient Ex. 1 Ex. Comp. 1 Ex. Comp. 2 Ex. Comp. 3 B (a) Polyglyceryl-2 isostearate (HLB: 8) 1.7 - 1.7 - (a) Polyglyceryl-4 caprate (HLB: 14) 1.8 - 1.8 1.8 Polyglyceryl-2 triisostearate (HLB: 3) - - - 1.7 (b) Jojoba esters 0.63 0.63 - 0.63 (e) Cetearyl alcohol 1.095 1.095 - 1.095 (c) Glyceryl stearate 0.63 0.63 - 0.63 (d) Sodium stearoyl glutamate 0.27 0.27 - 0.27 Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Wax 0.27 0.27 - 0.27 Polyglycerin-3 0.0148 5 0.01485 - 0.01485 Tocopherol 0.0015 0.0015 - 0.0015 A (f) Water q.s. 100 q.s. 100 q.s. 100 q.s. 100 q.s. 100 (h) Dilauramidoglutamide sodium lysine (29% by weight aqueous solution) 0.4 0.4 0.4 0.4 Glycerin 7 7 7 7 Chlorphenesin 0.27 0.27 0.27 0.27 Hydroxyacetophenone 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 Caprylyl glycol 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2 Phytic acid 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1 Tetrasodium glutamate diacetate 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2 Niacinamide 2 2 2 2 (d) Sodium stearoyl glutamate 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1 B (e) Alcohol Cetyl 1 1 1 1 Pentaerythrityl tetra-di-t-butyl hydroxyhydrocinnamate 0.07 0.07 0.07 0.07 (g) Isopropyl myristate 1.3 1.3 1.3 1.3 (g) Diisopropyl sebacate 5 5 5 5 Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea) butter 0.9 0.9 0.9 0.9 Capryloyl salicylic acid 0.3 0.3 0.3 0.3 C Ammonium polyacryloyldimethyl taurate 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 Xanthan gum 0.07 0.07 0.07 0.07 D Boron nitride 0.4 0.4 0.4 0.4 Silica 1 1 1 1 Titanium dioxide (and) mica 2 2 2 2 E Biosaccharide-2 gum 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 Ethanol 3 3 3 3 Penetration sensation Very good Poor Good Good Rich sensation Very good Very good Very bad Good Stability Very good Poor Very bad Very bad

[0285] Table 1 [Reviews] (Sensation of penetration)

[0286] Five professional panelists evaluated the "penetration sensation" after application of the compositions according to Example 1 and Comparative Examples 1 to 3. Each panelist took each composition and applied it to their face to evaluate the penetration sensation during application, and rated it from 1 (poor) to 5 (very good), and it was then classified into the following 4 categories based on the average of the rating:

[0287] Very good: From 5.0 to 4.0 (the sensation of penetration is felt during application)

[0288] Good: From 3.9 to 3.0 (the sensation of penetration is slightly felt during application)

[0289] Poor: From 2.9 to 2.0 (a slight sensation of penetration is felt during application)

[0290] Very poor: From 1.9 to 1.0 (no sensation of penetration is felt during application)

[0291] The results are shown in Table 1. (Rich sensation)

[0292] Five professional panelists evaluated the "rich feel" after application of the compositions according to Example 1 and Comparative Examples 1 to 3. Each panelist took each composition and applied it to their face to evaluate the rich feel (rich texture) after application, and rated it from 1 (poor) to 5 (very good), and it was then classified into the following 4 categories based on the average of the rating:

[0293] Very good: From 5.0 to 4.0 (the richness is noticeable after application)

[0294] Good: From 3.9 to 3.0 (the richness is slightly noticeable after application)

[0295] Poor: From 2.9 to 2.0 (low fuel economy is noticeable after application)

[0296] Very poor: From 1.9 to 1.0 (no noticeable improvement in quality after application)

[0297] The results are shown in Table 1. (Stability)

[0298] Each of the compositions according to Example 1 and Comparative Examples 1 to 3 was poured into a glass bottle and maintained under temperature change conditions at 4 °C, 25 °C, 40 °C and 45 °C for 2 months. Each sample was then studied in terms of degree of change (transparency, color, odor and pH) and was evaluated according to the following criteria:

[0299] Very good: Almost the same conditions as in production.

[0300] Good: Minor changes in transparency, color, odor, and pH have were observed. No separation or creamy appearance was observed.

[0301] Bad: Changes in transparency, color, odor, and pH were clearly observed. Separations, a creamy appearance, and crystallizations were also clearly observed.

[0302] Very poor: Significant changes in transparency, color, odor, and pH were noted. Separation, a creamy appearance, and crystallization were noted.

[0303] The results are shown in Table 1. (Summary)

[0304] As is clear from Table 1, the composition according to the present invention (Example 1) was able to offer both a good penetrating sensation and a good rich sensation; and was stable to temperature changes for 2 months, which could be attributed to a combination of ingredients (a), (b), (c) and (d).

[0305] Thus, the composition according to the present invention can offer excellent texture and excellent stability, in particular, for a long period, even in the event of temperature changes.

[0306] Cetearyl alcohol and cetyl alcohol, as ingredients (e), in the composition according to Example 1 can be considered negligible, since they are simply fatty substances.

[0307] The helianthus annuus (sunflower) seed wax in the composition according to Example 1 can also be considered negligible, as it consists of simple fatty substances.

[0308] Furthermore, polyglycerin-3 and tocopherol in the composition according to Example 1 can be considered negligible, since the quantity of each of these ingredients is very small.

[0309] In contrast, the compositions according to Comparative Examples 1 and 3, which did not include ingredient (a), showed a poor sensation of penetration at touch as well as instability.

[0310] The composition according to Comparative Example 2, which did not include ingredients (b) and (c), showed inferior texture in terms of rich feel, as well as instability.

Claims

Demands

1. Composition, preferably a cosmetic composition, and more preferably a cosmetic composition for the skin, comprising: (a) at least two fatty acid polyglyceryl esters; (b) at least one jojoba ester wax; (c) at least one C2-C24 fatty acid ester of a C2-C24 polyol; and (d) at least one carboxylic anionic surfactant or carboxylate selected from amino acids modified with at least one C8-C30 hydrocarbon-based chain and their salts, wherein at least one of the (a) at least two fatty acid polyglyceryl esters has at least two hydroxyl groups in its polyglyceryl fraction.

2. Composition according to claim 1, wherein each of the (a) fatty acid polyglyceryl esters has an HLB value of 5 or more, preferably 6 or more, and more preferably 7 or more.

3. Composition according to claim 1 or 2, wherein the (a) fatty acid polyglyceryl esters comprise a combination of: (a1) a first fatty acid polyglyceryl ester having an HLB value of 5 to less than 11, preferably 6 to less than 11, and more preferably 7 to less than 11; and (a2) a second fatty acid polyglyceryl ester having an HLB value of 11 to 17, preferably 11 to 16, and more preferably 11 to 15, wherein each of the (a1) first fatty acid polyglyceryl ester and the (a2) second fatty acid polyglyceryl ester has at least two hydroxyl groups in its polyglyceryl fraction.

4. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 3, wherein the total amount of (a) fatty acid polyglyceryl esters in the composition is 0.1% to 15% by weight, preferably 0.5% to 10% by weight, and more preferably 1% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

5. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 4, wherein (b) jojoba ester wax is selected from fully hydrogenated jojoba ester of formula (II): R'-COO-CHz-R1 (II) in which R1 is CH3-(CH2)y-, and y is 16, 18, 20 or 22.

6. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 5, wherein the (c) C12-C24 fatty acid ester of a C2-C24 polyol is selected from glyceryl laurate, glyceryl oleate, glyceryl stearate, glyceryl palmitate and a mixture thereof.

7. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 6, wherein the (d) carboxylic anionic surfactant or carboxylate selected from amino acids modified with at least one C8-C30 hydrocarbon chain and their salts is represented by the following formula (III): n (III) Jlx ......(CHj> ^.COOM Z."ï X ¥ in which: - Z represents a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched hydrocarbon-based group comprising from 8 to 24 carbon atoms, preferably from 8 to 22 carbon atoms, - X is a hydrogen atom or a methyl group; - n is equal to 0 or 1; Y is a group selected from a hydrogen atom and a group -CH3, -CH(CH3)2, -CH2CH(CH3)2, -CH(CH3)CH2CH3, -CH2C6H5, -CH2C2H4OH, -CH2OH, -CH(OH)CH3, -(CH2)4NH2, -(CH2)3NHC(NH)NH2, -ch2 C(O)O M+, -(CH2)2C(O)OH, and -(CH2)2C(O)O M+; and - M is a hydrogen atom or a cation such as sodium, the potassium, ammonium, or triethanolamine.

8. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 7, wherein the composition further comprises (e) at least one C12-C24 saturated fatty alcohol, preferably selected from the group consisting of cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, cetearyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, lauric alcohol, tridecyl alcohol, pentadecyl alcohol, hexadecyl alcohol, arachidyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol and a mixture thereof.

9. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 8, in

10. wherein the composition further comprises (g) at least one oil. Cosmetic process for treating a keratinous substance, comprising the step of applying the composition according to any one of claims 1 to 9 on the keratinous substance.