Ecobiological composition comprising environmentally friendly sun protection boosters
A synergistic composition of mycosporine-like amino acids enhances sun protection factors and UVA protection, addressing environmental and health risks of existing sunscreens, and maintaining skin ecosystem balance.
Patent Information
- Application Number
- PCT/EP2025/080515
- Authority / Receiving Office
- WO · WO
- Patent Type
- Applications
- Current Assignee / Owner
- Priority Date
- 2024-10-22
- Filing Date
- 2025-10-22
- Publication Date
- 2026-04-30
AI Technical Summary
Existing sunscreens, both mineral and organic, pose environmental and health risks, and formulations with high SPF and UVA-PF ratios are challenging due to limited safe ingredients, leading to ecotoxicity and health concerns.
A composition comprising mycosporine-like amino acids (MAAs) in synergy with other compounds to enhance SPF and UVA-PF, reducing the need for organic and mineral filters, while being environmentally friendly.
The composition significantly improves sun protection factors and UVA protection, maintaining skin ecosystem balance and minimizing environmental impact.
Smart Images

Figure EP2025080515_30042026_PF_FP_ABST
Abstract
Description
[0001] DESCRIPTION
[0002] Title of the invention: ECO-BIOLOGICAL COMPOSITION COMPRISING SUN PROTECTION AMPLIFIERS THAT RESPECT
[0003] THE ENVIRONMENT
[0004] Scope of the invention
[0005] The present invention relates to a composition, in particular a topical composition, advantageously ecobiological, comprising active ingredients suitable for improving sun protection, as well as its use to protect the skin from ultraviolet radiation.
[0006] Prior state of the art
[0007] Ultraviolet (UV) radiation consists of light with wavelengths between 100 nm and 400 nm, traditionally divided into three subgroups: UV-A (400-315 nm), UV-B (315-280 nm), and UV-C (280-100 nm). UV-C, with its shorter wavelength, is the most energetic and harmful form of UV radiation. It is filtered by the ozone layer in the atmosphere and does not reach the Earth's surface in significant quantities. Most skin damage is caused by UV-A and UV-B radiation.
[0008] UVB rays induce the production of the skin's natural pigment called melanin, which is responsible for the phenomenon commonly known as tanning. UVB rays also stimulate cells to produce a thicker epidermis. The reactions described above constitute a defense mechanism of the body against UV radiation.
[0009] The high energy of UVB rays generates molecular disorders (DNA alteration and protein damage) which, in the long term, saturate and disrupt the nuclear DNA repair system. This leads to permanent mutations in the genome of affected cells, which are the cause of skin cancers. This is a direct form of UVB toxicity. As for UVA rays, they are known to penetrate the deeper layers of the skin, where they produce harmful effects, particularly on connective tissue and blood vessels. They are notably responsible for the phenomenon known as "photoaging," that is, premature actinic aging of the skin. Moreover, although UVB rays are the primary cause of skin cancers, UVA rays also play an indirect role in this type of damage.Indeed, UV-A and UV-B radiation are responsible for the production of free radicals, particularly ROS (Reactive Oxygen Species). These are highly unstable molecules with very short half-lives, on the order of nanoseconds to milliseconds. ROS are capable of damaging intracellular structures (DNA, membranes, intracellular proteins, etc.) as well as extracellular structures (components of the extracellular matrix such as collagen fibers). ROS also exert an indirect harmful effect by causing the oxidation of membrane lipids, which induces the formation of reactive carbonyl species that contribute to amplifying tissue and cellular damage.
[0010] It is therefore necessary to combat the harmful effects of UV radiation, particularly UVA and UVB, taking into account individual differences such as skin type (phototype) and sun exposure duration. For this reason, sunscreen formulations have been developed to provide photoprotection for areas exposed to UV radiation. These formulations are available as lotions, oils, oil-in-water or water-in-oil emulsions, foams, gels, sticks, or sprays. They contain a cosmetically acceptable base and one or more chemical filters or mineral sunscreens at varying concentrations.
[0011] Mineral sunscreens protect against UV rays by both reflecting and absorbing sunlight. Mineral sunscreens, at least in micrometric form, are safe for human use and pose no health risks.
[0012] However, they have other drawbacks:
[0013] Mineral sunscreens tend to dry out the skin and are difficult to spread, leaving white streaks on the skin that can be very unsightly;
[0014] The galenic assessment of compositions based on mineral screens is often poor, particularly in compositions free of silicones.
[0015] Chemical sunscreens are organic compounds that absorb light, creating a filtering layer on the skin that neutralizes UV rays. When a sunscreen molecule is exposed to UV radiation, it enters an excited state by absorbing the radiation's energy and then returns to its stable state. Through this mechanism, the light radiation is converted into heat and dissipated. Chemical sunscreens therefore act in the same way as melanin, the skin's natural photoprotective pigment. Most chemical or organic sunscreens are lipophilic and thus lend themselves to use in highly water-resistant formulations. From a pharmaceutical perspective, formulations based on organic sunscreens are generally more popular than those based on mineral sunscreens, which improves user compliance.
[0016] In Europe, all organic and mineral sunscreens authorized by regulations are listed (Annex VI of the European Cosmetics Directive). This list currently includes around thirty compounds, identified by their INCI names, from which the cosmetics industry must choose ingredients to formulate sunscreens. However, this list is not static and is constantly evolving based on the results of scientific research. Indeed, several studies have demonstrated, firstly, that some of these organic filters penetrate the deeper layers of the skin very deeply, and secondly, that some of the organic filters on this list could pose risks to human health and the environment, particularly due to their suspected endocrine-disrupting properties.
[0017] In particular, scientific results question the safety of benzophenone-4 or benzophenone-3 (Kinnberg et al. 2015; Zucchi et al. 2011), octyl methoxycinnamate (Szwarcfarb et al. 2008, Axelstad et al. 2011), 3-methylbenzylidene camphor and 4-methylbenzylidene camphor (Schlumpf et al. 2008; Petersen et al. 2007), octocrylene, isoamyl methoxycinnamate, or octyl dimethyl PABA (Schlumpf et al.
[0018] 2001; Rehfeld et al. 2016; Ozâez et al. 2016).
[0019] In addition to the potential effects on humans, the impact of these molecules on natural environments cannot be ignored; indeed, filters are continuously dispersed into bathing water and wastewater. This water pollution, combined with UV filters, inevitably affects the entire food chain, with unpredictable consequences for the balance of an ecosystem already compromised by human activities. Among other examples of ecotoxic effects, sunscreens are believed to have a negative impact on marine reefs and are thought to be responsible for coral bleaching (Danovaro et al. 2008).The gradual reduction in the number of organic sunscreens considered safe for human use and the environment is increasingly complicating the formulation of sunscreen cosmetics, particularly high-protection sunscreens—that is, those with a significant SPF (Sun Protection Factor) that also provide good protection against UVA radiation (measured by the UVA-PF index). Formulating products with a high SPF and a satisfactory SPF / UVA-PF ratio is especially challenging for products intended for the Canadian and American markets, where only a portion of the latest-generation filters used in Europe for the past two decades are permitted.
[0020] To compensate for the non-ecological use of sunscreens in general, and the reduction in the number of usable sunscreens in particular, sun protection agents are often formulated in cosmetic products. These sun protection agents are sometimes molecules similar to authorized sunscreens, or are plastic derivatives, which can therefore generate the same drawbacks as organic sunscreens; notably, their ecotoxicity could be significant.
[0021] An interesting family of protective agents is represented by mycosporine-like amino acids (MAAs). MAAs are small heterocyclic molecules (<400 Da) containing cyclohexenone or cyclohexeminine chromophores, which are found naturally as secondary metabolites in marine organisms such as corals, algae, and cyanobacteria; they are therefore considered to be eco-friendly and respectful of aquatic ecosystems.
[0022] In particular, document EP2855441 discloses a family of MAA-type compounds having the following general IE formula:
[0023] [Chem. 1]
[0024]
[0025] This document specifies that these compounds, from the IE molecule family, absorb ultraviolet radiation and can be used as UV-blocking agents. As examples, compounds with the formulas IAi and IE4 are given, having sun protection factors of 2.4 and 4.5 respectively.
[0026] Thus, although MAAs from the IE molecule family absorb UV radiation, the sun protection factor is insufficient for use in sun cosmetic compositions.
[0027] Although considered good candidates for the formulation of eco-friendly sun products, a solution must be found to improve the anti-UV potential of MAAs, in order to be able to use them in sun products.
[0028] Thus, the present invention aims to overcome the drawbacks of the state of the art, by proposing a composition, in particular ecobiological, comprising MAAs and whose SPF is compatible with a topical solar application and which is environmentally friendly.
[0029] DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION
[0030] After much research using the ecobiological approach, it is to the applicant's credit that she was able to identify, unexpectedly and surprisingly, a composition that is advantageously ecobiological, comprising an association of compounds / active principles that act in synergy to meet this need.
[0031] In accordance with the ecobiological approach of acting on the causes of skin disorders with the greatest respect for the person, their interactions with the world and the planet, one objective of the present invention is to improve the sun protection factor (SPF) of topical compositions comprising MAAs while reducing the quantity of organic and mineral filters.
[0032] Thus, a first object of the present invention relates to a topical composition, advantageously ecobiological, comprising:
[0033] (i) At least one compound of general formula (I) or one of its salts, said formula being [Chem. 2]
[0034]
[0035] in which:
[0036] - R1 is chosen from the group consisting of: alkyl in C2-C6 or acyl -C(O)(R3);
[0037] - R2 is chosen from the group consisting of: alkoxyl radicals -OR4 or amine radicals -N(R5)(R6); - R3 represents an alkyl radical in C1-C6;
[0038] - R4 represents a C12-C16 alkyl radical, C12-C16 alkenyl, C12-C16 alkynyl, phenyl, 4-pyranone, CI-CIÔ alkylphenyl, C2-C16 alkenylphenyl, C2-C16 alkynylphenyl, C3-C6 cycloalkyl, possibly substituted by a CI-CIÔ alkyl, C2-CiÔ-alkenyl-C3-Co-cycloalkyl and C2-Ci6-alkynyl-C3-C6-cycloalkyl; said radicals being optionally substituted by one or more substituents chosen independently of each other from the hydroxy, amine, C1-C6 alkyl, C1-C6 hydroxyalkyl, C1-C6 alkoxyl, C1-C6 thioalkyl, C1-C6 alkylcarbonyloxy, phenyl, C1-C6 alkoxyphenyl, or C2-C6 alkenylphenyl group optionally substituted by one or more substituents chosen independently of each other as being a C1-C6 alkyl, C1-C6 hydroxyalkyl, C1-C6 alkoxyl, C1-C6 thioalkyl or C1-C6 alkylcarbonyloxy group;
[0039] - R5 and RÔ represent, independently of each other, a hydrogen atom or an alkyl radical in CI-CIÔ, alkenyl in C2-C16, alkynyl in C2-C16, phenyl, alkylphenyl in CI-CIÔ, alkenylphenyl in C2-C16, alkynylphenyl in C2-C16, N-alkoxyindole in CI-CIÔ, cycloalkyl in C3-C6, possibly substituted by an alkyl in CI-CIÔ, C2-CiÔ-alkenyl-C3-Co-cycloalkyl and C2-CiÔ-alkynyl-C3-Co-cycloalkyl;said radicals being optionally substituted by one or more substituents chosen independently of each other from the hydroxy, amine, alkyl in C-C0, hydroxyalkyl in C-C0, alkoxyl in C-C0, thioalkyl in C-C0, alkylcarbonyloxy in C-C0, phenyl, alkoxyphenyl in C-C0, OR alkenylphenyl in C2-C6 optionally substituted by one or more substituents chosen independently of each other as being an alkyl in C-C0, hydroxyalkyl in C-C0, alkoxyl in C-C0, thioalkyl in C-C0 OR alkylcarbonyloxy in C-C0 or R5 and R0 form, with the nitrogen atom to which they are bonded, a heterocycle chosen from piperidine, morpholine, hexamethyleneimine or the pyrrolidine, possibly substituted by one or more alkyl groups in Ci-C6;
[0040] ii) at least one compound of general formula (IIA) or one of its salts, or of general formula (IIB) or one of its salts, and mixtures thereof:
[0041] [Chem. 3]
[0042]
[0043] [Chem. 4]
[0044]
[0045] in which:
[0046] R? represents a hydrogen atom or an alkyl radical; alkenyl; alkynyl; aryl; heterocycle; cycloalkyl; alkoxyl; acyl; hydroxyl; sulfo; halogen; phosphono; ester; a carboxylic acid; a phenyl; an amine; an alkylated fatty acid chain or a polyether;
[0047] R₈ represents an alkyl; alkenyl; alkynyl; aryl; heterocycle; cycloalkyl; alkoxyl; acyl; sulfo; phosphono; ester; carboxylic acid; hydroxyl; or phenyl.
[0048] In structures (I), (IIA), and (IIB), the hydrogen atoms are not shown. Thus, the nitrogen atom, structurally represented as 'divalent' and schematically represented as "-N-", corresponds to a nitrogen atom bonded to a hydrogen atom, i.e., "-NH-". Within the scope of the invention, when a tautomeric form exists for the chemical functions of the invention, these functions may be represented in either tautomeric form.
[0049] Thus, in the context of an imine function, the latter can be represented in the form of imine or its tautomeric form enamine.
[0050] In other words, within the framework of the invention, the representation of a chemical structure of a compound encompasses its tautomeric forms.
[0051] Thus, within the framework of the invention, the imine and enamine functions are interchangeable.
[0052] The term "tautomer" refers to structural isomers with different energies that are interconvertible over a low energy barrier. If tautomerism is possible (e.g., in solution), a chemical equilibrium of the tautomers can be reached. For example, proton tautomers (also called proton transfer tautomers) include, but are not limited to, those obtained by interconversion via proton transfer, such as keto-enol tautomerism, imine-enamine tautomerism, and amide-iminol tautomerism. Unless otherwise specified, all tautomeric forms of the compounds in this disclosure fall within the scope of this disclosure.
[0053] The present invention offers various advantages, including the ability to use simply and routinely an effective composition whose compounds act in synergy, which is respectful of the communities of living cells that constitute the skin and that constantly interact with each other and with their environment to maintain the balance of this skin ecosystem, and which is also respectful of aquatic ecosystems.
[0054] In particular, the present invention makes it possible to improve the sun protection factor (SPF) as well as the UVA protection factor (UVA-PF) of compositions containing the compounds according to the invention and, therefore, to reduce the quantities of sun filters used for the same SPF obtained.
[0055] The present invention, by virtue of the combination of at least 2 compounds, i.e., the compounds of general formulas (I), (IIA) and / or (IIB), unexpectedly improves sun protection, in particular SPF and / or UVA-PF, which are far superior to what could have been expected by a person skilled in the art.
[0056] Within the context of this invention, "ecobiological composition" refers to a composition that respects the individual, their interactions with the world, and the planet. Preferably, it designates a composition that respects the communities of living cells that constitute the skin (the skin microbiota, keratinocytes, fibroblasts, etc.) and that constantly interact with each other and with their environment to maintain the balance of this skin ecosystem. "Ecobiological approach" refers to the specific approach initiated by the inventor, Jean-Noël Thorel, which combines skin biology and ecosystems to help the skin function according to its natural biology over the long term.
[0057] In the context of the invention, "molecular weight (Mw)" refers to the average molecular weight by weight (Mw or Molecular weight) of a compound, for example a protein.
[0058] In the context of the invention, "composition for cutaneous application" or "topical" or "for topical use" means a composition compatible with application to the skin, mucous membranes, hair and / or scalp, preferably of human origin.
[0059] The term "mineral filter" or "mineral sunscreen" refers to natural or synthetic minerals used to filter and absorb UV light. The two active ingredients in currently authorized mineral sunscreens are zinc oxide and titanium dioxide.
[0060] The term “organic sunscreen” refers to filters made of organic compounds, and a distinction is made between organic UVB filters, organic UVA filters, and broad-spectrum organic filters.
[0061] For the purposes of this invention, "organic UVB filter" means any organic sunscreen, whether hydrophilic or lipophilic, that absorbs mainly or exclusively in the UVB range.
[0062] For the purposes of this invention, "broad-spectrum organic filter" means any organic sunscreen, whether hydrophilic or lipophilic, that absorbs both UVB and UVA rays. Advantageously, the topical composition, advantageously ecobiological, according to the invention comprises at least one compound of general formula (I) or one of its salts and at least one compound of general formula (IIA) or one of its salts.
[0063] Alternatively, the topical composition, advantageously ecobiological, according to the invention comprises at least one compound of general formula (I) or one of its salts and at least one compound of general formula (IIB) or one of its salts.
[0064] According to another particular embodiment, the topical composition, advantageously ecobiological, according to the invention comprises at least one compound of general formula (I) or one of its salts, at least one compound of general formula (IIA) or one of its salts and at least one compound of general formula (IIB) or one of its salts.
[0065] Advantageously, the topical composition, advantageously ecobiological, according to the invention has the following additional technical characteristics, taken alone or in combination:
[0066] • at least one compound of general formula (I) or one of its salts according to the invention is characterized in that:
[0067] - R1 is chosen from the group consisting of: alkyl in C2-C6 or acyl -C(O)(R3);
[0068] - R2 is chosen from the group consisting of: alkoxyl radicals -OR4 or amine -(N)RSRÔ; - R4 represents 4-pyranone, 3,4,5-trimethoxybenzyl or an alkyl in C1O;
[0069] • In the composition according to the invention, at least one compound of general formula (I) is characterized in that:
[0070] - Ri is an acyl -C(O)(R ) in which R3 is an alkyl in Ci;
[0071] - R2 is an alkoxyl radical -OR4;
[0072] - R4 is 3,4,5-trimethoxybenzyl;
[0073] • at least one compound of general formula (I) according to the invention is molecule (II) below:
[0074] [Chem. 5]
[0075]
[0076] corresponding to 3-[4-(acetyloxy)-3,5-dimethoxyphenyl]-(3,4,5-trimethoxyphenyl)methyl ester- (2E)-Propenoic acid and CAS number 1469299-98-6 and, advantageously, to the INCI designations trimethoxybenzyl acetylsinapate or ethylhexyl ferulate;
[0077] • at least one compound of general formula (I) according to the invention corresponds to CAS number 1469299-98-6 and to the INCI designation trimethoxybenzyl acetylsinapate;
[0078] • at least one compound of general formula (I) according to the invention corresponds to CAS number 1469299-98-6 and to the INCI designation ethylhexyl ferulate;
[0079] • at least one compound of general formula (I) according to the invention, advantageously corresponding to the INCI designation trimethoxybenzyl acetylsinapate or ethylhexyl ferulate, is obtained from extracts of plants or microorganisms, or by chemical synthesis, more advantageously by chemical synthesis;
[0080] • at least one compound of general formula (I) according to the invention, advantageously the compound corresponding to the INCI designation trimethoxybenzyl acetylsinapate or ethylhexyl ferulate, is present in the composition according to the invention in purified or isolated form, preferably of purity at least equal to 60%, 70%, 80%, 90% or even at least equal to 95%; • at least one compound of general formula (I) according to the invention, advantageously the compound corresponding to the INCI designation trimethoxybenzyl acetylsinapate or ethylhexyl ferulate, is vectorized in a clay support;
[0081] • at least one compound of general formula (I) according to the invention, advantageously the compound corresponding to CAS number 1469299-98-6 and / or to the INCI designation trimethoxybenzyl acetylsinapate or ethylhexyl ferulate, and which is vectorized in a clay support, corresponds to the INACLEAR VECTORISE raw material marketed by the companies INABATA and PHARMASYNTHESE and corresponding to the INCI designations bentonite (and) trimethoxybenzyl acetylsinapate or bentonite (and) ethylhexyl ferulate; • at least one compound of general formula (I) according to the invention, advantageously the compound corresponding to the INCI designation trimethoxybenzyl acetylsinapate or ethylhexyl ferulate, represents between 0.0001 and 10%, preferably between 0.001% and 1%, more preferably between 0.003% and 0.3%, by weight of the composition;
[0082] • in at least one compound of general formula (IIA) or (IIB) according to the invention, R₇ is an alkoxyl of formula -O(CH₂)ₙ(CH₃) where n is an integer between 0 and 10, advantageously n = 0 or n = 8;
[0083] • in at least one compound of general formula (IIA) or (IIB) according to the invention, R₈ is a carboxylic acid of formula –(CH₂)ₙ (COOH), where n is an integer between 0 and 5, advantageously n = 1 or n = 0;
[0084] • in at least one compound of general formula (IIA) or (IIB) according to the invention, R₈ is an ester of formula -O(CO)(CH₂)ₙ(CH₃), where n is an integer between 0 and 5, advantageously n = 1 or n = 2;
[0085] • in at least one compound of general formula (IIA) or (IIB) according to the invention, R₇ is an alkoxyl of formula -O(CH₂)ₙ(CH₃) where n = 0; and; R₈ is an ester of formula -O(CO)(CH₂)ₙ(CH₃), where n = 1 or n = 2 or R₈ is a carboxylic acid of formula –(CH₂)ₙ (COOH), where n is an integer between 0 and 5, advantageously n = 1 or n = 0;
[0086] • at least one compound of general formula (IIA) or (IIB) according to the invention is obtained from extracts of plants or microorganisms or by chemical synthesis, advantageously by chemical synthesis;
[0087] • at least one compound of general formula (IIA) or (IIB) according to the invention is used in the composition according to the invention in purified or isolated form, preferably of purity at least equal to 60%, 70%, 80%, 90% or even at least equal to 95%;
[0088] • at least one compound according to the general formula (IIA) according to the invention is the molecule of formula (IIA1) or one of its salts, represented below:
[0089] [Chem. 6]
[0090]
[0091] corresponding to [N-[(3E)-3-[(4-methoxyphenyl)imino]-5,5-dimethyl-l-cyclohexen-l-yl]-Glycine and CAS number 1509902-01-5, and preferably to the INCI designation methoxyphenylimino dimethylcyclohexene glycine, advantageously marketed by ELKIMIA Inc.;
[0092] • at least one compound according to the general formula (IIA) according to the invention is the molecule of formula (IIA2) (represented in a tautomeric form of formula IIA) or one of its salts represented below:
[0093] [Chem. 7]
[0094]
[0095] corresponding to [N-[3-[(4-methoxyphenyl)amino]-5,5-dimethyl-2-cyclohexen-l-ylidene]-, ethyl ester, [N(E)] -Glycine and CAS number 2640340-86-7.
[0096] and, advantageously to the INCI designation methoxyphenylimino dimethylcyclohexenyl ethyl glycinate;
[0097] • the compound of formula (IIA2) according to the invention is marketed by SENSIENT Inc. under the trade name SENSISORB™ BIOMIM;
[0098] at least one compound according to the general formula (IIB) of the invention is the molecule of formula (IIB 1) or one of its salts represented below:
[0099] [Chem. 8]
[0100]
[0101] corresponding to [3,5,6,7-tetrahydro-6,6-dimethyl-8-[[4-(octyloxy)phenyl]amino]-2H-l,4-Benzothiazine-3 -carboxylic acid and CAS number 1629023-01-3, and advantageously to the INCI designation caprylyloxyphenylamino dimethyltetrahydro benzothiazine carboxylic acid;
[0102] • the compound according to the general formula (IIB 1) according to the invention is marketed by the company ELKIMIA Inc.;
[0103] • at least one compound according to the general formula (IIB) according to the invention is the molecule of formula (IIB2) or one of its salts represented below:
[0104] [Chem. 9]
[0105]
[0106] Corresponding to [3,5,6,7-tetrahydro-8-[(4-methoxyphenyl)amino]-6,6-dimethyl-2H-l,4-Benzothiazine-3-carboxylic acid and CAS number 1629023-04-6 and, advantageously, to the INCI designation methoxyphenylimino dimethylhexahydro benzothiazine carboxylic acid; • the compound of formula (IIB2) according to the invention is marketed by ELKIMIA Inc.;
[0107] • at least one compound according to the general formula (IIB) according to the invention is the molecule of formula (IIB3) or one of its salts represented below: [Chem. 10]
[0108]
[0109] corresponding to ethyl ester- (3R)- 2H-l,4-Benzothiazine-3 -carboxy lie acid, 3, 4, 5, 6,7,8-hexahydro-8-[(4-methoxyphenyl)imino]-6,6-dimethyl and CAS number 2699128-33-9;
[0110] • Compounds of general formula (IIA) do not include the compound of formula IIA3 below:
[0111] [Chem. 11]
[0112]
[0113] • The composition according to the invention comprises at least two compounds of general formula (IIA) or (IIB), advantageously selected from the molecules corresponding to the INCI designations methoxyphenylimino dimethylcyclohexene glycine, caprylyloxyphenylamino dimethyltetrahydro benzo thiazine carboxylic acid, methoxyphenylimino dimethylhexahydro benzothiazine carboxylic acid and methoxyphenylimino dimethylcyclohexenyl ethyl glycinate as well as the compound corresponding to CAS number 2699128-33-9; • The composition according to the invention comprises at least three compounds of general formula (IIA) or (IIB), advantageously selected from the molecules corresponding to the INCI designations methoxyphenylimino dimethylcyclohexene glycine, caprylyloxyphenylamino dimethyltetrahydro benzo thiazine carboxylic acid, methoxyphenylimino dimethylhexahydro benzothiazine carboxylic acid and methoxyphenylimino dimethylcyclohexenyl ethyl glycinate as well as the compound corresponding to CAS number 2699128-33-9;
[0114] • at least one compound of general formula (I) according to the invention is molecule (II) below:
[0115] [Chem. 5]
[0116]
[0117] and at least one compound of general formula (IIA) according to the invention is the molecule of formula (IIA2) below:
[0118] [Chem. 7]
[0119]
[0120] • The mass ratio between the at least one compound of general structure (I) according to the invention, and the at least one compound of general formula (IIA) or of general formula (IIB) or their mixture according to the invention is between 1:100 and 1:1, advantageously between 1:50 and 1:2;
[0121] • at least one compound of general formula (IIA) or of general formula (IIB) and their mixture, represents between 0.01% and 10%, preferably between 0.1% and 5%, even more advantageously between 0.5% and 2% by weight of the composition.
[0122] • The composition according to the invention further comprises at least one compound selected from the group consisting of: fructooligosaccharides, mannitol, xylitol, ectoine, rhamnose, biosaccharide gum-4 and mixtures thereof;
[0123] • the xylitol to be used in the composition according to the invention is advantageously in pure form or characterized by a purity greater than 90% by weight;
[0124] • The raw material OriStar XLT (Orient Stars LLC), corresponding to the INCI designation xylitol, can be used in the composition of the invention.
[0125] • Xylitol represents between 0.0001% and 2% by total weight of the composition according to the invention, advantageously between 0.001% and 0.1%.
[0126] • mannitol to be used in the composition according to the invention, advantageously in pure form or characterized by a purity greater than 90% by weight;
[0127] • The raw material OriStar MNT (Orient Stars LLC), corresponding to the INCI designation mannitol, can be used in the composition of the invention;
[0128] • Mannitol represents between 0.0001% and 2% by total weight of the composition according to the invention, advantageously between 0.001% and 0.1%;
[0129] • The rhamnose to be used in the composition according to the invention is advantageously in pure form or characterized by a purity greater than 90% by weight;
[0130] • The raw material L-Rhamnose (PVP SA), corresponding to the INCI designation rhamnose, can be used in the composition of the invention;
[0131] • Rhamnose represents between 0.0001% and 2% by total weight of the composition, advantageously between 0.001% and 0.1%.
[0132] • fructooligosaccharides, to be used in the composition according to the invention, also called oligofructoses or FOS, represent between 0.001% and 10% by total weight of the composition according to the invention, advantageously between 0.01% and 5%;
[0133] • The FOS to be used in the composition according to the invention are in purified or highly purified form, and correspond to the fructooligosaccharides raw material corresponding to the INCI name FRUCTOOLIGOSACCHARIDES marketed by the company SHAANXI BOLIN BIOTECHNOLOGY CO; • The rhamnose to be used in the composition according to the invention is advantageously in pure form or characterized by a purity greater than 90% by weight;
[0134] • the raw material L-Rhamnose (PVP SA), corresponding to the INCI designation rhamnose, can be used in the composition of the invention;
[0135] • rhamnose represents between 0.0001% and 2% by total weight of the composition according to the invention, advantageously between 0.001% and 0.1%;
[0136] • the biosaccharide gum-4 to be used in the composition according to the invention is advantageously in pure form or characterized by a purity greater than 90% by weight;
[0137] • the biosaccharide gum-4 represents between 0.0001% and 2% by total weight of the composition according to the invention, advantageously between 0.001% and 0.1%;
[0138] • the raw material POLLUSTOP corresponding to the INCI designation biosaccharide gum-4 (and) 1,2-hexanediol can be used in the composition of the invention;
[0139] • at least one compound of general formula (I) according to the invention corresponding to the INCI designation trimethoxybenzyl acetylsinapate or ethylhexyl ferulate; and
[0140] at least one compound of general formula (IIA), or of general formula (IIB) and their mixture, is chosen from the molecules corresponding to the INCI designations methoxyphenylimino dimethylcyclohexene glycine, caprylyloxyphenylamino dimethyltetrahydro benzothiazine carboxylic acid, methoxyphenylimino dimethylhexahydro benzothiazine carboxylic acid and methoxyphenylimino dimethylcyclohexenyl ethyl glycinate, advantageously methoxyphenylimino dimethylcyclohexenyl ethyl glycinate;
[0141] • the composition according to the invention further comprises at least one sunscreen;
[0142] • at least one sunscreen represents between 0.1% and 30% by total weight of the composition, advantageously between 0.5% and 20%, preferably between 1% and 10%;
[0143] • at least one sunscreen according to the invention is a lipophilic organic sunscreen, advantageously a triazine-derived sunscreen;
[0144] • the composition according to the invention further comprises at least two different triazine-derived sunscreens, advantageously at least three different triazine-derived sunscreens;
[0145] • at least one triazine-derived sunscreen according to the invention is selected from the group consisting of 1,2,4-triazine, 1,3,5-triazine, 1,2,3-triazine and their mixtures;
[0146] • at least one triazine-derived sunscreen according to the invention is selected from compounds corresponding to the INCI designations bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine, diethylhexyl butamido triazone, ethylhexyl triazone, tris-biphenyl triazine, phenylene bis-diphenyltriazine, ethylhexyl bis-isopentylbenzoxazolylphenyl melamine, and mixtures thereof, advantageously bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine;
[0147] • at least one triazine-derived sunscreen according to the invention represents between 0.1% and 30% by total weight of the composition, advantageously between 0.5% and 20%, preferably between 1% and 10%;
[0148] • the composition according to the invention includes, advantageously in addition, at least one triazine-derived sunscreen according to the invention, at least one organic UVA filter, which is in aqueous (hydrophilic) and / or oily (lipophilic) phase, advantageously selected from the group consisting of butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane, diethylamino hydroxybenzoyl hexyl benzoate, bis-(diethylaminohydroxybenzoyl benzoyl)piperazine, disodium phenyl dibenzimidazole tetrasulfonate and mixtures thereof;
[0149] • the composition according to the invention is free from the sunscreens corresponding to the following INCI designations: 3-(4-Methylbenzylidene)camphor; 3-Benzylidenecamphor; benzophenone-2, benzophenone-3, ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate and / or octocrylene;
[0150] • The composition according to the invention further comprises at least one mineral screen (or inorganic mineral filter), which advantageously corresponds to a metal oxide and / or another compound that is difficult to soluble or insoluble in water, more advantageously chosen from the oxides of titanium (TiCl), zinc (ZnO), iron (FC2O3), zirconium (Z1O2), silicon (SiCl), manganese (for example MnO), aluminium (Al2O3), or cerium (Ce2O3), bismuth trioxide (Bi2O3), bismuth oxychloride (BiOCl) and mixtures thereof;
[0151] • the composition according to the invention comprises at least one mineral screen selected from the group consisting of compounds corresponding to the following INCI designations: zinc oxide, titanium dioxide and their mixtures, advantageously corresponding respectively to the following raw materials: Z-COTE™ LS A and T-Lite™ (BASF) and their mixtures;
[0152] • at least one sunscreen and / or mineral screen according to the invention represents between 0.1 and 30% by total weight of the composition, advantageously between 0.5 and 20%, preferably between 1 and 15%;
[0153] • the composition according to the invention further comprises at least one solubilizer of lipophilic organic UV filters, advantageously at least two solubilizers of lipophilic organic UV filters;
[0154] • at least one or two solubilizers of lipophilic organic UV filters according to the invention are selected from the group comprising compounds corresponding to the following INCI designations: dibutyl adipate, dicaprylyl carbonate, diisopropyl sebacate, caprylyl caprylate / caprate, dicaprylyl ether, coco-caprylate, Cl 2-15 alkyl benzoate, propylheptyl caprylate, butylene glycol dicaprylate / dicaprate, dipropylene glycol dibenzoate, neopentyl glycol diheptanoate, triheptanoin, Cl 2-13 alkyl lactate, ethylhexyl benzoate, Cl 2-C15 alkyl lactate, C12-13 alkyl tartrate, tridecyl salicylate, lauryl lactate, diethyl adipate, caprylic / capric triglycerides, diisobutyl adipate, diisopropyl adipate, diethylhexyl adipate, diethylhexyl succinate, propanediol dicaprylate, propylene glycol dicaprylate / dicaprate, isopropyl lauroyl sarcosinate, propylene glycol dibenzoate, hydroxyl dimethoxybenzyl malonate, phenoxyethyl caprylate, isodecyl salicylate, dimethyl capramide,phenethyl benzoate and mixtures thereof;
[0155] • the composition according to the invention comprises at least the solubilizers of lipophilic organic UV filters corresponding to the INCI designations: dibutyl adipate, dicaprylyl carbonate and C12-C15 alkyl benzoate;
[0156] • the composition according to the invention comprises at least the solubilizers of lipophilic organic UV filters corresponding to the INCI designations: dicaprylyl carbonate and diisopropyl sebacate;
[0157] • the solubilizers of lipophilic organic UV filters according to the invention represent between 5% and 80% by total weight of the composition, advantageously between 10% and 70%, preferably between 15% and 60%;
[0158] • the composition of the invention further comprises at least one emulsifier selected from the following group of compounds identified by their INCI designation: sodium stearoyl glutamate, potassium cetyl phosphate, glyceryl stearate, cetyl phosphate, C20-22 alkyl phosphate / C20-C22 alkyl alcohols, tribehenin PEG-20 esters, C14-C22 alcohols / C12-20 alkyl glucoside, cetearyl alcohol, coco-glucoside, polyglyceryl-6 stearate, polyglyceryl-6 behenate, PEG-30 dipolyhydroxystearate, polyglyceryl-4 diisostearate / polyhydroxystearate / sebacate and mixtures thereof;
[0159] • the composition according to the invention further comprises at least one emulsifier representing between 0.1% and 5% by total weight of the composition, advantageously between 0.5% and 3%;
[0160] • the composition according to the invention is presented in any galenic form normally used or usable in the cosmetic and dermatological fields, preferably compatible with the formulation of an oil phase;
[0161] • Triazine-derived sunscreens suitable for use in a composition according to the invention are available on the market from several suppliers. By way of example, the following raw materials can be used in the composition according to the invention:
[0162] - TINOSORB™ S / TINOSORB™ AQUA (BASF) corresponding to the INCI designation bis ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine (CAS number: 187393-00-6);
[0163] - UVASORB™ HEB (SIGMA 3V) corresponding to the INCI designation diethylhexyl butamido triazone (CAS number 154702-15-5);
[0164] - TINOSORB™ A2B (BASF) corresponding to the INCI designation tris-biphenyl triazine (CAS no: 31274-51-8);
[0165] -UVINUL™ T150 marketed (BASF) corresponding to the INCI designation ethylhexyl triazone (CAS number: 88122-99-0);
[0166] - TRIASORB™ (PLANTS & INDUSTRY) corresponding to the INCI designation phenylene bis-diphenyltriazine (CAS number 55514-22-2);
[0167] - UVASORB™ K2A (SIGMA 3V) corresponding to the INCI designation ethylhexyl bis-isopentylbenzoxazolylphenyl melamine (CAS number 288254-16-0);
[0168] - 1,3,5-triazine derivatives corresponding to CAS numbers 2174063-28-4, 2174063-29-5 and 2174063-30-8, described in document EP 3275872; and
[0169] - 2,4,6-tris(4'-diethyl aminobenzalmalonate)-s-triazine, 2,4,6-tris(4'-diisopropyl aminobenzalmalonate)-1,3,5-triazine, 2,4,6-tris(4'-dimethyl aminobenzalmalonate)-1,3,5-triazine, or 2,4,6-tris(ethyl α-cyano-4-aminocinnamate)-1,3,5-triazine. These molecules are described in document EP0507692.
[0170] • Solubilizers suitable for use in a composition according to the invention are available on the market from several suppliers. By way of example, the following raw materials can be used in the composition according to the invention:
[0171] - several raw materials from the CETIOL™ range (BASF), including CETIOL™ RLF, CETIOL™ B, CETIOL™ CC, CETIOL™ O, CETIOL™ C5, CETIOL™ AB, CETIOL™ SENSOFT, corresponding respectively to the INCI designations caprylyl caprylate / caprate, dibutyl adipate, dicaprylyl carbonate, dicaprylyl ether, coco-caprylate, C12-15 alkyl benzoate, propylheptyl caprylate;
[0172] -the DUB™ DIS, DEA, DIBA, ZENOAT (STEARINE DUBOIS) corresponding respectively to the INCI designations diisopropyl sebacate, diethyl adipate, diisobutyl adipate and propanediol dicaprylate;
[0173] - MIGLYOL™ 8810 and T-C7 (IOI Oleo GmbH) corresponding respectively to the INCI designations butylene glycol dicaprylate / dicaprate and triheptanoin;
[0174] - Lexsolv™ A (INOLEX) corresponding to the INCI designations dipropylene glycol dibenzoate and neopentyl glycol diheptanoate;
[0175] - COSMACOL™ ELI, ETI, ESI and LL (SASOL) corresponding respectively to the INCI designations C12-13 alkyl lactate, C12-13 alkyl tartrate, tridecyl salicylate and lauryl lactate
[0176] - Ceraphyl™ 41 ester (ASHLAND) corresponding to INCI designations C12-C15 alkyl lactate;
[0177] - Finsolv™ EB and PG 22 (INNOSPEC) corresponding respectively to the INCI designations, ethylhexyl benzoate and dipropylene glycol dibenzoate;
[0178] - CRODAMOL™ DA, DOA, OSU and PC (CRODA) corresponding respectively to the INCI designations diisopropyl adipate, diethylhexyl adipate, diethylhexyl succinate and propylene glycol dicaprylate / dicaprate;
[0179] - ELDEW™ SL-205 (AJINOMOTO) corresponding to the INCI designation isopropyl lauroyl sarcosinate;
[0180] - Lexfeel™ Shine (INOLEX) corresponding to the INCI designation propylene glycol dibenzoate;
[0181] - TEGOSOFT™ XC and CT (EVONIK) corresponding to the INCI designation phenoxyethyl caprylate and caprylic / capric triglycerides;
[0182] - RONACARE™ AP (MERCK KGaA) corresponding to the INCI designation hydroxyl dimethoxybenzyl malonate;
[0183] - DERMOL™ IDSA marketed (Alzo INTL) corresponding to the INCI designation isodecyl salicylate;
[0184] - Spectrasolv™ DMDA (Hallstar) corresponding to the designation INCU dimethyl capramide; And
[0185] - X-TEND™ 226 (Ashland) corresponding to the INCI designation phenethyl benzoate.
[0186] • the composition according to the invention is in a galenic form suitable for topical use or application, advantageously cosmetic, acceptable i.e. compatible with the skin, mucous membranes, hair and / or scalp;
[0187] • The composition according to the invention is in the form of an aqueous (gelled or ungelled), hydroalcoholic, organic, or oily solution; a suspension or dispersion in solvents or fatty substances, such as a lotion or serum; a vesicular dispersion of ionic (liposomes) and / or non-ionic type; a two-phase composition free of emulsifiers and gelling agents, the immiscible phases of which separate during storage; a water-in-oil (W / O), oil-in-water (O / W), or multiple emulsions such as a water-in-oil-in-water (W / O / W) emulsion. The emulsion may be more or less thick and may be in the form of a cream or lotion; the composition of the invention may also be in the form of an ointment, gel, solid stick, anhydrous paste or solid products, a foam, in particular an aerosol, a two-phase composition, or a sprayable composition, in particular a spray or mist.
[0188] According to a particular embodiment, the invention relates to a composition, advantageously eco-biological, comprising:
[0189] (i) at least one compound of general formula (I) as defined above, advantageously a corresponding compound corresponding to CAS number 1469299-98-6 and / or the INCI designation trimethoxybenzyl acetylsinapate or ethylhexyl ferulate;
[0190] (ii) at least one compound of general formula (IIA) or general formula (IIB) or mixture thereof, as defined above, advantageously corresponding to CAS number 2699128-33-9 and / or selected from molecules corresponding to the INCI designations methoxyphenylimino dimethylcyclohexene glycine, caprylyloxyphenylamino dimethyltetrahydro benzothiazine carboxylic acid, methoxyphenylimino dimethylhexahydro benzothiazine carboxylic acid and methoxyphenylimino dimethylcyclohexenyl ethyl glycinate, advantageously methoxyphenylimino dimethylcyclohexenyl ethyl glycinate for its use in protecting the skin, mucous membranes, hair and / or scalp against UV radiation, advantageously between 280 and 400 nm, in particular between 300 and 380 nm.
[0191] According to a particular embodiment, the composition according to the invention is used to filter UV radiation between 280 and 400 nm, in particular between 300 and 380 nm.
[0192] According to a particular embodiment, the invention relates to a composition, advantageously eco-biological, comprising:
[0193] (i) at least one compound of general formula (I) or one of its salts as defined above, advantageously the compound corresponding to CAS number 1469299-98-6 and / or the INCI designation trimethoxybenzyl acetylsinapate or ethylhexyl ferulate;
[0194] (ii) at least one compound of general formula (IIA) or general formula (IIB) or one of its salts and mixtures thereof, as defined above, advantageously corresponding to CAS number 2699128-33-9 and / or selected from molecules corresponding to the INCI designations methoxyphenylimino dimethylcyclohexene glycine, caprylyloxyphenylamino dimethyltetrahydro benzothiazine carboxylic acid, methoxyphenylimino dimethylhexahydro benzothiazine carboxylic acid and methoxyphenylimino dimethylcyclohexenyl ethyl glycinate, advantageously methoxyphenylimino dimethylcyclohexenyl ethyl glycinate,
[0195] for its use as a UV filtering agent, in particular for the wavelength spectrum between 280 and 400 nm, in particular between 300 and 380 nm.
[0196] According to a particular embodiment, the invention relates to the use of:
[0197] (i) at least one compound of general formula (I) or one of its salts as defined above, advantageously the compound corresponding to CAS number 1469299-98-6 and / or the INCI designation trimethoxybenzyl acetylsinapate or ethylhexyl ferulate; and
[0198] (ii) at least one compound of general formula (IIA) or general formula (IIB) or one of its salts and mixtures thereof, as defined above, advantageously corresponding to CAS number 2699128-33-9 and / or selected from molecules corresponding to the INCI designations methoxyphenylimino dimethylcyclohexene glycine, caprylyloxyphenylamino dimethyltetrahydro benzothiazine carboxylic acid, methoxyphenylimino dimethylhexahydro benzothiazine carboxylic acid and methoxyphenylimino dimethylcyclohexenyl ethyl glycinate, advantageously methoxyphenylimino dimethylcyclohexenyl ethyl glycinate,
[0199] for the preparation of a composition, preferably ecobiological, topical, advantageously cosmetic.
[0200] The invention also relates to a cosmetic treatment method consisting of applying to the skin, mucous membranes, hair and / or scalp a composition, advantageously eco-biological, comprising:
[0201] (i) at least one compound of general formula (I) or one of its salts as defined above, advantageously the compound corresponding to CAS number 1469299-98-6 and / or the INCI designation trimethoxybenzyl acetylsinapate or ethylhexyl ferulate;
[0202] (ii) at least one compound of general formula (IIA) or general formula (IIB), or one of its salts and mixtures, as defined above, advantageously corresponding to CAS number 2699128-33-9 and / or selected from the molecules corresponding to the INCI designations methoxyphenylimino dimethylcyclohexene glycine, caprylyloxyphenylamino dimethyltetrahydro benzothiazine carboxylic acid, methoxyphenylimino dimethylhexahydro benzothiazine carboxylic acid, and methoxyphenylimino dimethylcyclohexenyl ethyl glycinate, advantageously methoxyphenylimino dimethylcyclohexenyl ethyl glycinate. The manner in which the invention can be implemented and the resulting advantages will become clearer from the following illustrative and non-limiting examples of implementation, supported by the accompanying figures.
[0203] EXAMPLES OF ACHIEVEMENTS
[0204] The percentages indicated are given as product weight relative to the total weight of the composition in the tables below.
[0205] Example 1: Cosmetic composition according to the invention - day cream
[0206] Table 1
[0207]
[0208]
[0209] Example 2: Cosmetic composition according to the invention - rich repairing day cream
[0210] Table 2
[0211]
[0212]
[0213] Example 3: Cosmetic composition according to the invention - SPF50+ sun mist
[0214] Table 3
[0215]
[0216]
[0217] Example 4: Cosmetic composition according to the invention - oil-in-water emulsion SPF30+
[0218] Table 4
[0219]
[0220]
[0221] Example 5: Measurement of the sun protection factor (SPF) and the UVA protection factor (UVA-PF) obtained with compositions according to the invention
[0222] 5-1 Purpose of the study
[0223] The objective of the study was to determine the sun protection factor (SPF) and UVA protection (UVA-PF) obtained in a control composition comprising a broad-spectrum organic UV filter, present in a small quantity (i.e., 3% by weight of the composition), compared to the same composition incorporating the active ingredients according to the invention, both alone and in combination. It should be noted that the presence of a filter could prove useful for enabling the detection of SPF and UVA-PF, as the detection limits of currently available devices are relatively low. In other words, although the use of a filter could facilitate experimentation, its presence does not appear to be a prerequisite for the purposes of the invention.
[0224] 5-2 Materials and Methods An in vitro method for measuring the solar protection factor and the UV protection conferred was used. A first UV absorption measurement was carried out on a 5*5 cm SB6 sandblasted plate (Helioscreen) coated with 15 µl of glycerin (white), thus eliminating the absorption of the substrate.
[0225] Next, the product under investigation is sampled and applied in 16 spots to the plate. The measured quantity is 30 mg, corresponding to a concentration of 1.2 mg / cm². The sample is spread evenly. The plate is then placed in the dark at room temperature for at least 15 minutes. The plate is irradiated using a CPS + ATLAS sun test at 600 W / m². 2The plate is then placed in the measurement chamber of the Labsphère UV 2000 S spectrophotometer to perform UV absorption measurements between 290 and 400 nm (solar irradiation profile used: Albuquerque, NM). Each measurement corresponds to the average of three plates, on which nine measurements are taken (nine points on the PMMA plate are measured). The SPF and in vitro UVA-PF are calculated using the method described by Diffey et al. (2000).
[0226] The following formulas were created and tested:
[0227] Table 5
[0228]
[0229]
[0230] 5-3 Results and conclusions
[0231] The SPF (sun protection factor) conferred by the different formulas (Fle) was measured:
[0232] Table 6
[0233]
[0234] The UVA protection provided by the different formulas (Fle) was measured:
[0235] Table 7
[0236]
[0237] Formula 1 according to the prior art, which contains 3% of the broad-spectrum filter bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine, has an in vitro SPF of 5.47 and a UVA-PF of 4.42. Formulas according to the prior art 2 and 3 additionally contain methoxyphenylimino dimethylcyclohexenyl ethyl glycinate (compound of formula (II) according to the invention) and trimethoxybenzyl acetylsinapate (compound of formula (I) according to the invention), respectively. Taken individually, these molecules contribute modestly to the SPF and UVA-PF (approximately +1.5 SPF and approximately +1 UVA-PF). The combination of the two molecules in the formula according to the invention 4 allows to synergistically boost both the SPF and the UVA-PF (SPF: 10.04; UVA-PF: 7.41), thereby obtaining considerable skin protection with an incorporation of only 3% of a broad spectrum sun filter in the composition, which is clearly demonstrated by the comparative data presented in Table 8 below.
[0238] Table 8
[0239]
[0240] It is clear from this example that the combination of the compounds of the invention induces a boost effect; that is, the mixture of the two compounds exhibits SPF and UVA-PF values significantly higher than those obtained with each compound taken individually, thus contributing significantly and unexpectedly to achieving effective sun protection. BIBLIOGRAPHY
[0241] Axelstad M., Boberg J., Hougaard KS, Christiansen S., Jacobsen PR, Mandrup KR, Nellemann C., Lund SP, Hass U. Effects of pre- and postnatal exposure to the UV-filter octyl methoxycinnamate (OMC) on the reproductive, auditory and neurological development of rat offspring. Toxicol. Appl. Pharmacol. 250:278–90 (2011).
[0242] Danovaro R., Bongiorni L., Corinaldesi C., Giovannelli D., Damiani E., Astolfi P., Greci L. Pusceddu A. Sunscreens cause coral bleaching by promoting viral infections. Environ Health Perspect 116(4):441-447 (2008).
[0243] Diffey B. L., Tanner P. R., Matts P. J., Nash J. F. In vitro assessment of the broad-spectrum ultraviolet protection of sunscreen products. J Am Acad Dermatol. 43(6):1024-35 (2000).
[0244] Kinnberg K. L., Petersen G. I., Albrektsen M., Minghlani M., Awad S. M., Holbech B. F., Green J. W., Bjerregaard P., Holbech H Endocrine-disrupting effect of the ultraviolet filter benzophenone-3 in zebrafish, Danio rerio. Environ. Toxicol. Chem. 34 : 2833–40 (2015).
[0245] Ozâez, I., Morcillo, G., Martinez- Guitarte, J. L. Ultraviolet filters differentially impact the expression of key endocrine and stress genes in embryos and larvae of Chironomus riparius. Sci. Total Environ. 557-558 : 240–247 (2016).
[0246] Petersen, G., Rasmussen, D., Gustavson, K. Study on enhancing the Endocrine Disrupter priority list with a focus on low production volume chemicals Study on enhancing the Endocrine. Revised report to European Commission / DG Environment (2007).
[0247] Rehfeld A., et al. Organic Ultraviolet Filters Mimic the Action of Progesterone on Human Sperm and Interfere with Sperm Functions. FRI 105-133-Endocrine Disrupting Chemicals and Gene Regulation and Development (posters) (2016).
[0248] Schlumpf M., Cotton B., Conscience M., Haller V., Steinmann B., Lichtensteiger W. In vitro and in vivo estrogenicity of UV screens. Environ. Health Perspect. 109 : 239–44 (2001). Schlumpf M., Durrer S., Faass O., Ehnes C., Fuetsch M., Gaille C., Henseler M., Hofkamp L., Maerkel K., Reolon S., Timms B., Tresguerres J. A., Lichtensteiger W. Developmental toxicity of UV filters and environmental exposure: a review. Int J Androl. 31 : 144-51 (2008).
[0249] Szwarcfarb B., Carbone S., Reynoso R., Bollero G., Ponzo O., Moguilevsky J., Scacchi P. Octyl-Methoxycinnamate (OMC), an Ultraviolet (UV) Filter, Alters LHRH and Amino Acid Neurotransmitters Release from Hypothalamus of Immature Rats. Exp. Clin. Endocrinol. Diabetes 116 : 94–98 (2008).
[0250] Zucchi, S., Blüthgen, N., leronimo, A., Fent, K. The UV-absorber benzophenone-4 alters transcripts of genes involved in hormonal pathways in zebrafish (Danio rerio) eleuthero-embryos and adult males. Toxicol. Appl. Pharmacol. 250 : 137–46 (2011).
Claims
DEMANDS 1. Topical composition, advantageously ecobiological, comprising (i) At least one compound of general formula (I) or one of its salts, said formula being [Chem. 2] In which: - R1 is chosen from the group consisting of: alkyl in C2-C6 or acyl -C(O)(R3); - R2 is chosen from the group consisting of: alkoxyl radicals -OR4 or amine radicals -N(R5)(R6); - R3 represents an alkyl radical in C1-C6; - R4 represents a C-alkyl radical 12 -C 16 , C-alkenyl 12 -C 16 , C-alkynyl 12 -C 16 , phenyl, 4-pyranone, C1-C alkylphenyl 16 , C2-C alkenylphenyl 16 , C2-C alkynylphenyl 16 , C3-C6 cycloalkyl, possibly substituted by a C1-C alkyl 16 , C2-C 16 -alkenyl-C3-C6-cycloalkyl and C2-C 16-alkynyl-C3-C6-cycloalkyl; said radicals being optionally substituted by one or more substituents chosen independently from each other in the hydroxy, amine, C1-C6 alkyl, C1-C6 hydroxyalkyl, C1-C6 alkoxyl, C1-C6 thioalkyl, C1-C6 alkylcarbonyloxy, phenyl, C1-C6 alkoxyphenyl, or C2-C6 alkenylphenyl group optionally substituted by one or more substituents chosen independently from each other as being a C1-C6 alkyl, C1-C6 hydroxyalkyl, C1-C6 alkoxyl, C1-C6 thioalkyl or C1-C6 alkylcarbonyloxy group; - R5 and RÔ represent, independently of each other, a hydrogen atom or an alkyl radical in the form C1-C1O, C2-C16 alkenyl, C2-C16 alkynyl, phenyl, C1-C1O alkylphenyl, C2-C16 alkenylphenyl, C2-C16 alkynylphenyl, C1-C1O N-alkoxyindole, C3-C6 cycloalkyl, possibly substituted by an alkyl in the form C1-C1O, C2-C1O-alkenyl-C3-C1O-cycloalkyl and C2-C1O-alkynyl-C3-C1O-cycloalkyl; said radicals being possibly substituted by one or several substituents chosen independently from the hydroxy, amine, alkyl in C-C0, hydroxyalkyl in C-C0, alkoxyl in C-C0, thioalkyl in C-C0, alkylcarbonyloxy in C-C0, phenyl, alkoxyphenyl in C-C0, OR alkenylphenyl in C2-C6 optionally substituted by one or more substituents chosen independently from the other as being an alkyl in C-C0, hydroxyalkyl in C-C0, alkoxyl in C-C0, thioalkyl in C-C0 OR alkylcarbonyloxy in C-C0 or R5 and R0 form, with the nitrogen atom to which they are bonded, a heterocycle chosen from piperidine, morpholine, hexamethyleneimine or pyrrolidine, optionally substituted by one or more alkyls in CI-CÔ; ii) at least one compound of general formula (IIA) or one of its salts, or of general formula (IIB) or one of its salts, and mixtures thereof: [Chem. 3] [Chem. 4] In which: R7 represents a hydrogen atom or an alkyl radical; alkenyl; alkynyl; aryl; heterocycle; cycloalkyl; alkoxyl; acyl; hydroxyl; sulfo; halogen; phosphono; ester; a carboxylic acid; a phenyl; an amine; an alkylated fatty acid chain or a polyether; R₈ represents an alkyl; alkenyl; alkynyl; aryl; heterocycle; cycloalkyl; alkoxyl; acyl; sulfo; phosphono; ester; carboxylic acid; hydroxyl; or phenyl.
2. Topical composition according to claim 1, characterized in that: - R1 is an acyl -C(O)(R3) in which R3 is an alkyl in C1; - R2 is an alkoxyl radical -OR4; - R4 is 3,4,5-trimethoxybenzyl.
3. Topical composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that at least one compound of general formula (I) is molecule (II) below: [Chem. 5] corresponding to 3-[4-(acetyloxy)-3,5-dimethoxyphenyl]-(3,4,5-trimethoxyphenyl)methyl ester- (2E)-Propenoic acid and CAS number 1469299-98-6.
4. Topical composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that R7 is an alkoxyl of formula -O(CH2) n (CH3) where n is an integer between 0 and 10, advantageously n = 0 or n = 8.
5. Topical composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that R8 is a carboxylic acid of formula -(CH2) n (COOH), where n is an integer between 0 and 5, advantageously n = 1 or n = 0.
6. Topical composition according to any one of claims 1 to 4, characterized in that R8 is an ester of formula -O(CO)(CH2) n (CH3), where n is an integer between 0 and 5, advantageously n = 1 or n = 2.
7. Topical composition according to claim 6, characterized in that at least one compound of general formula (IIA) is the molecule of formula (IIA2) or one of its salts represented below: [Chem. 7] corresponding to [N-[3-[(4-methoxyphenyl)amino]-5,5-dimethyl-2-cyclohexen-l-ylidene]-, ethyl ester, [N(E)] -Glycine and CAS number 2640340-86-7.
8. Topical composition according to claim 4, characterized in that at least one compound of general formula (IIB) is the molecule of formula (IIB1) or one of its salts represented below: [Chem. 8] corresponding to [3,5,6,7-tetrahydro-6,6-dimethyl-8-[[4-(octyloxy)phenyl]amino]-2H-l,4- Benzothiazine-3 -carboxylic acid and CAS number 1629023-01-3.
9. Topical composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that at least one compound of general formula (I) represents between 0.0001 and 10%, preferably between 0.001% and 1%, more preferably between 0.003% and 0.3%, by weight of the composition.
10. Topical composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that at least one compound of general formula (IIA) or of general formula (IIB) and their mixture, represents between 0.01% and 10%, preferably between 0.1% and 5%, even more advantageously between 0.5% and 2% by weight of the composition.
11. Topical composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that at least one compound of general formula (I) is of formula (II) below: [Chem. 5] and at least one compound of general formula (IIA) and / or general formula (IIB) is chosen from the molecules corresponding to the INCI designations methoxyphenylimino dimethylcyclohexene glycine, caprylyloxyphenylamino dimethyltetrahydro benzothiazine carboxylic acid, methoxyphenylimino dimethylhexahydro benzothiazine carboxylic acid and methoxyphenylimino dimethylcyclohexenyl ethyl glycinate.
12. Topical composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that at least one compound of general formula (I) is molecule (II) below: [Chem. 5] and at least one compound with general formula (IIA) is the molecule with formula (IIA2) below: [Chem. 7] 13. Topical composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it comprises at least one compound of formula (II) corresponding to the INCI designation trimethoxybenzyl acetylsinapate or ethylhexyl ferulate and at least one compound of general formula (IIA) corresponding to the INCI designation methoxyphenylimino dimethylcyclohexenyl ethyl glycinate.
14. Topical composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it further comprises at least one sunscreen.
15. Topical composition according to claim 14, characterized in that sunscreen is a lipophilic organic sunscreen, advantageously a triazine-derived sunscreen.
16. Topical composition according to claim 14 or 15, characterized in that the sunscreen is selected from the compounds corresponding to the INCI designations bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine, diethylhexyl butamido triazone, ethylhexyl triazone, tris-biphenyl triazine, phenylene bis-diphenyltriazine, ethylhexyl bis-isopentylbenzoxazolylphenyl melamine, and mixtures thereof, advantageously bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine.
17. Topical composition according to any one of claims 1 to 16 for its use in protecting the skin, mucous membranes, hair and / or scalp against UV radiation.
18. Topical composition according to any one of claims 1 to 16 for its use as a UV filtering agent, in particular for the wavelength spectrum between 280 and 400 nm, in particular between 300 and 380 nm.
Citation Information
Patent Citations
S-Triazine derivatives substituted with benzylenecampher, process for their preparation, filtering cosmetic compositions containing them and their use as UV protectors for skin and hair
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Imino compounds as protecting agents against ultraviolet radiations
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New triazine compounds as photostabilising agents
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Use of trimethoxybenzyl acetylsinapate, advantageously in combination with at least one sunscreen, for protecting the skin
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COSMETIC SUNSCREEN COMPOSITION CONTAINING MYCOSPORIN ANALOGUE AMINO ACIDS
FR3124945A1