Sunscreen cosmetic composition with improved effectiveness

Abstract

The invention relates to a sunscreen cosmetic composition in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion, suitable for topical application to the skin, that comprises, the percentages being expressed by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, 25% to 65% water, at least two oil-soluble organic sunscreen filters, a mixture of cetearyl olivate and sorbitan olivate in an amount less than or equal to 2%, at least one emulsifier present in an amount greater than or equal to that of the component having the highest content between cetearyl olivate and sorbitan olivate in the mixture of cetearyl olivate and sorbitan olivate, and at least one oily emollient, the composition being free of dibutyl adipate, homosalate, mineral filters and volatile silicones. This composition shows an improvement in SPF for the same amount of UV filters, without degradation of its texture and sensorial properties.

Description

[0001] DESCRIPTION

[0002] Title: COSMETIC SUNSCREEN COMPOSITION WITH IMPROVED EFFICACY

[0003] The present invention falls within the field of cosmetic compositions for sun protection.

[0004] More particularly, the present invention relates to a cosmetic sun protection composition in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion, allowing better sun protection with equivalent quantities of filters, as well as the use of such a cosmetic composition for sun protection of the skin and / or hair.

[0005] TECHNICAL CONTEXT

[0006] The field of photoprotection is a major public health issue to prevent skin damage from overexposure to the sun.

[0007] The potentially harmful effects of ultraviolet radiation on the skin are well known, and a multitude of sun protection products, commonly called sunscreens, are marketed to prevent these effects. Skin damage is primarily induced by ultraviolet radiation (UVA and / or UVB), but also by visible light, including high-energy blue light, and infrared radiation, through damage to macromolecules leading to lesions of deoxyribonucleic acid (DNA), oxidative stress, lipid peroxidation, and degradation of the dermal matrix.

[0008] The number of UV filters in a sunscreen product can vary depending on the specific formulation. However, sunscreens generally contain multiple UV filters to provide broad-spectrum protection against UVA and UVB rays, as well as visible light, including high-energy blue light and infrared radiation. Some products may combine a significant number of filters, for example, five or more UV filters.

[0009] The level or factor of protection that a sunscreen product offers against UVB rays is called SPF (for "Sun Protection Factor"). The total SPF of a sunscreen product is classically evaluated on its own, for wavelengths between 290 and 400 nm. Its value can be determined according to ISO 24444 "Sun protection test methods - In vivo determination of the sun protection factor (SPF) 2019".

[0010] To obtain a sunscreen product with a better SPF, several strategies are possible.

[0011] One approach to increasing the SPF of a sunscreen product is to increase the concentration of UV filters, which means using a larger quantity of these filters in the formulation. However, it can be difficult to solubilize these UV filters, and this can affect the product's sensory qualities.

[0012] The SPF can also be improved by optimizing the solubilization of UV filters, particularly lipophilic filters, through the use of ingredients with enhanced solubilizing properties. Many sunscreens use dibutyl adipate as their primary solubilizer for this purpose. However, this substance can be hydrolyzed and potentially release butanol, a malodorous substance; just a few ppm is enough to produce an unpleasant smell. To mask this odor, it is necessary to add other ingredients, such as fragrances, in sufficient quantities. However, it is advisable to minimize the use of fragrances to ensure optimal product tolerance. Furthermore, consumers are looking for simplified formulations with as few ingredients as possible.

[0013] Furthermore, it is well known that volatile silicones, such as cyclopentasiloxane, can also improve the dispersion of UV filters and provide a better feel on the skin. However, formulations without volatile silicones are more respectful of the skin's natural balance, and the absence of these controversial agents results in highly tolerable formulations.

[0014] Alternatively, different UV filters can be combined in a sunscreen product. For example, combining chemical and mineral UV filters can offer more effective and broader protection. However, these combinations can affect the texture and feel of the sunscreen on the skin, as mineral filters tend to leave a white cast.

[0015] Alternatively, the use of advanced technologies, such as microcapsules or nanoparticles, can optimize the performance of UV filters and increase the SPF without increasing their concentration. However, these particles may end up in aquatic ecosystems after rinsing, which can harm marine fauna and flora.

[0016] An alternative for improving the SPF of sunscreens, without the previously mentioned drawbacks, is to incorporate an ingredient marketed as an "SPF booster." This type of booster is designed to increase the effectiveness of sun protection. It can enhance the stability of UV filters, improve product distribution on the skin, or increase hydration and antioxidant properties. In this way, an SPF booster optimizes the overall performance of the sunscreen, thus offering increased protection against the sun's harmful rays. However, some boosters can alter the sensory texture of the cosmetic.

[0017] Patent EP 2 545 900 B1 describes sun protection compositions for skin and hair, formulated as oil-in-water emulsions combining a high protection factor with a particularly pleasant sensory profile. To achieve this balance, the patent teaches the combined use of seven essential components (Ecs), including a specific anionic emulsifier, certain mono- / diacylglycerides, fatty alcohols, lipophilic esters, and a specific system of organic UV filters, including homosalate, in strictly defined proportions. It specifies that the simultaneous presence of these components is essential to obtain the desired stability and feel.The document also mentions the use of a cetearyl olivate / sorbitan olivate mixture (“Olivem 1000”), but experimental results show that, in the tested formulations, the use of this mixture (cream E) leads to instability during storage and eye discomfort reported by users, dissuading those skilled in the art from implementing it.

[0018] The present invention aims to provide a sunscreen composition, in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion, that offers higher sun protection performance than prior art compositions, with an equivalent quantity of sun filters, and that meets current consumer requirements. The desired performance is preferably achieved using the fewest possible number and quantity of sun filters. Additional objectives of the invention are that this composition generally exhibits good sensory qualities, and in particular a light and fluid texture.

[0019] The invention further aims to achieve these results without compromising the stability of the composition over time, without increasing its cost price compared to prior art emulsion compositions, and without the need to incorporate controversial substances.

[0020] DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION

[0021] Surprisingly and unexpectedly, the inventors discovered that these objectives can be achieved by using a specific SPF booster in an oil-in-water emulsion composition.

[0022] Indeed, the addition of the specific blend of cetearyl olivate and sorbitan olivate resulted in an improved SPF with the same amount of UV filters, without compromising the texture and sensory qualities of the fluid sunscreen in its oil-in-water emulsion form. It should be noted that the waxy consistency of the cetearyl olivate and sorbitan olivate mixture might have deterred those skilled in the art from using it in such a formulation.

[0023] Thus, according to a first aspect of the invention, a cosmetic sun protection composition is proposed in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion, suitable for topical application to the skin, and comprising, the percentages being expressed by weight relative to the total weight of the composition:

[0024] - 25% to 65% water,

[0025] - at least two organic, oil-soluble sunscreens,

[0026] - a mixture of cetearyl olivate and sorbitan olivate in a content of 2% or less,

[0027] - at least one emulsifier present in a content greater than or equal to that of the component with the higher content between cetearyl olivate and sorbitan olivate in the mixture of cetearyl olivate and sorbitan olivate, and

[0028] - at least one oily emollient, said composition being free of dibutyl adipate, homosalate, mineral filters and volatile silicones. The cosmetic composition according to the invention is in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion, that is to say, it comprises an oily phase kept homogeneously dispersed, in the form of fine droplets, in an aqueous phase, by the emulsifier(s) contained in the composition.

[0029] The cosmetic composition according to the invention comprises, by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, 25% to 65% water, preferably 30% to 60% water, or 30% to 55% water, even more preferably 35% to 50% water, and even more preferably 40% to 45% water.

[0030] The cosmetic composition according to the invention comprises at least 2 organic, fat-soluble sunscreens.

[0031] The term "sunscreen", as used in this description, classically refers to a substance capable of filtering solar radiation to protect a surface, typically the skin or hair, from the harmful effects of this radiation.

[0032] Furthermore, "sun protection" is understood to mean protection against the effects of ultraviolet radiation, particularly UVA and / or UVB, and / or blue light. The term "sun protection," as used in this description, encompasses not only protection against the harmful effects of solar radiation, but also against artificial ultraviolet radiation, generated, for example, by tanning lamps. More specifically, sun protection is understood here as preventing, or at least limiting, the contact of ultraviolet radiation and / or blue light with the surface to be protected, through mechanisms of absorption, reflection, and / or scattering of UVA and / or UVB radiation and / or blue light.

[0033] The term "ultraviolet radiation" or "UV radiation", commonly abbreviated "UV", refers to solar ultraviolet radiation but also to artificial ultraviolet radiation, generated by tanning lamps for example.

[0034] The term "UVA radiation," or simply "UVA," refers to ultraviolet rays with a wavelength λ between 320 nm and 400 nm. The term "UVB radiation," or simply "UVB," refers to ultraviolet rays with a wavelength λ between 290 nm and 320 nm.

[0035] A sunscreen is described as a "UVA filter" or "UVB filter" depending on whether it primarily filters UVA or UVB rays.

[0036] Within the framework of the present invention, any conventionally known liposoluble organic sunscreen can be contained in the cosmetic composition according to the invention.

[0037] The liposoluble organic sunscreens of the composition according to the invention can thus in particular be of the type of triazine derivatives, benzotriazole and phenyl benzotriazole derivatives, dibenzoylmethane derivatives, amino-substituted benzophenone and 2-hydroxybenzophenone derivatives, merocyanine derivatives, para-aminobenzoic acid derivatives, salicylic derivatives, cinnamic derivatives, |3,|3'-diphenylacrylate derivatives, benzylidene camphor derivatives, anthranilic derivatives, imidazoline derivatives, benzylmalonate derivatives, etc.

[0038] In preferred embodiments, the cosmetic composition according to the invention comprises at least two, in particular at least three, and especially at least four fat-soluble organic sunscreens selected from diethylamino hydroxybenzoyl hexyl benzoate, bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine, diethylhexyl butamido triazone, ethylhexyl triazone, 2-ethylhexyl salicylate, butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane, and methoxypropylamino cyclohexenylidene ethoxyethylcyanoacetate. Any combination of two or more of these filters may be contained in the cosmetic composition according to the invention.

[0039] In particular embodiments, the cosmetic composition according to the invention contains no other fat-soluble organic sunscreens than those listed above. Alternatively, it may contain one or more other organic sunscreens selected from additional fat-soluble organic sunscreens (i.e., not included in the list above), water-soluble organic sunscreens, and particulate organic sunscreens. In preferred embodiments of the invention, the cosmetic composition according to the invention comprises at least bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine.

[0040] In particular embodiments of the invention, the cosmetic composition according to the invention comprises at least:

[0041] - 2-[4-(diethylamino)-2-hydroxybenzoyl]hexyl benzoate (CAS No.: 302776-68-7; INCI name: Diethylamino hydroxybenzoyl hexyl benzoate), also known as diethylamino hydroxybenzoyl hexyl benzoate or DHHB, as marketed by BASF under the name Uvinul A Plus®. This is a fat-soluble UVA filter with a maximum absorption wavelength Åmax of 354 nm. In particular embodiments, DHHB constitutes between 1% and 10% or between 2% and 10%, typically between 3% and 10%, in particular between 4% and 9%, especially between 5% and 8%, and more particularly between 5% and 7%, by weight relative to the total weight of the composition; and / or,

[0042] - 2,4-bis[4-(2-ethylhexyloxy)-2-hydroxyphenyl]-6-(4-methoxyphenyl)-1,3,5-triazine (CAS No.: 187393-00-6; INCI name: bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine), also known as bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine or BEMT, as marketed by BASF under the name Tinosorb S®. This is a lipid-soluble, broadband filter with two absorption peaks at 310 nm and 340 nm. In certain embodiments, BEMT represents between 1% and 5%, particularly between 2% and 5%, especially between 3% and 5%, and, more particularly, between 2% and 4%, by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0043] In particular embodiments, the cosmetic composition according to the invention may further comprise at least one of the following:

[0044] - ethylhexyl triazone or EHT (chemical name: 2-ethylhexyl ester of 4-[[4,6-bis[[4-(2-ethylhexoxy-oxomethyl)phenyl]amino]-1,3,5-triazin-2-yl]amino]benzoic acid; CAS No.: 88122-99-00), as marketed by BASF under the name Uvinul T 150®. This is a lipophilic UVB filter, having a maximum absorption wavelength Åmax of 314 nm. In particular embodiments, EHT represents between 1% and 6%, in particular between 2% and 5%, in particular between 3% and 5%, and more particularly between 3.5% and 5%, by weight relative to the total weight of the composition; and / or - diethylhexyl butamido triazone or DBT (chemical name: 4,4'-[[6-[[4-[[(1,1-dimethylethyl)amino]carbonyl]phenyl]amino]-1,3,5-triazine-2,4-diyl ]diim ino]bis-, bis(2-ethylhexyl)benzoate; CAS No.: 154702-15-5; INCI name: Diethylhexyl butamido triazone), as marketed by 3V Sigma under the name Uvasorb HEB®.This is a liposoluble UVB filter, having a maximum absorption wavelength Amax of 310 nm. In particular embodiments, DBT represents between 1% and 8%, in particular between 2% and 7%, in particular between 3% and 6% and, more particularly, between 3.5% and 5%, by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0045] The cosmetic composition according to the invention may comprise 2, 3 or 4 of these sun filters.

[0046] Alternatively, it may contain one or more other oil-soluble organic sunscreens, for example:

[0047] - 4-tert-butyl-4-methoxydibenzoylmethane or butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane (chemical name 1,4-(1,1-dimethylethyl)phenyl-3-(4-methoxyphenyl)-1,3-propanedione; CAS No.: 70356-09-1), also known as avobenzone or BMDBM, as marketed notably by DSM under the name Parsol 1789®. It is a fat-soluble UVA filter, having a maximum absorption wavelength λmax of 357 nm. In particular embodiments of the invention, BMDBM represents between 1% and 5%, in particular between 1.5% and 5%, in particular between 2% and 5%, typically between 2% and 4%, by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.It is well known, however, that the butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane molecule, a widely used UVA filter in commercial sunscreens, cleaves into various chemical constituents lacking absorbing capacity when subjected to UV irradiation, unless combined with other compounds to improve its photostability. Therefore, preferably, the cosmetic composition according to the invention is free of butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane.

[0048] - 2-Ethylhexyl salicylate (CAS No. 118-60-5), also known as octyl salicylate or ethylhexyl salicylate (EHS), as marketed by Aako BV under the name AakoSun EHS®. Alternatively, the composition according to the invention may not include ethylhexyl salicylate; and - methoxypropylamino cyclohexenylidene ethoxyethylcyanoacetate (chemical name: 2-ethoxyethyl (2Z)-2-cyano-2-[3-(3-methoxypropylamino)cyclohex-2-en-1-ylidene]acetate; CAS No. 1419401-88-9). In particular embodiments of the invention, the concentration of methoxypropylamino cyclohexenylidene ethoxyethylcyanoacetate is less than or equal to 3% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Alternatively, the composition according to the invention may not include methoxypropylamino cyclohexenylidene ethoxyethylcyanoacetate.

[0049] In addition to the at least two fat-soluble organic filters, the composition according to the invention may or may not include at least one particulate organic filter, in particular chosen from among the particulate organic sunscreens corresponding to the INCI names: phenylene bisdiphenyltriazine, methylene bis-benzotriazolyl tetramethylbutylphenol, tris-biphenyl triazine.

[0050] Preferably, the cosmetic composition according to the invention further comprises, as a particulate organic sunscreen, phenylene bisdiphenyltriazine, a name commonly used to designate 5,6,5',6'-tetraphenyl-3,3'-(1,4-phenylene)-bis[1,2,4]triazine (CAS No. 55514-22-2, INCI name: phenylene bisdiphenyltriazine). In other words, the cosmetic composition according to the invention comprises phenylene bisdiphenyltriazine and at least two other fat-soluble organic filters as described above.

[0051] Phenylene bis-diphenyltriazine is a non-soluble, water-dispersible particulate organic filter.

[0052] This filter typically takes the form of an aqueous dispersion, comprising between 20% and 50%, and in particular between 40% and 50%, by weight of active ingredient relative to the total weight of the dispersion. Advantageously, the process for preparing such an aqueous dispersion consists of grinding the organic filter into particles using a grinding apparatus and in the presence of a grinding aid. Conventionally, wet grinding processes such as wet milling or wet mixing, well known to those skilled in the art, are used for this purpose. The grinding apparatus may be, for example, a micro-bead mill, a vibrating mill, or a ball mill. Depending on the grinding process, the grinding aid is chosen from the group consisting of anionic, nonionic, or amphoteric surfactants, emulsifiers, and dispersants.As an example of such a grinding aid, one can cite the dispersant PPG-1-PEG-9 Lauryl Glycol Ether (Eumulgin® L, marketed by BASF), which was used to prepare the aqueous dispersion that was the subject of the final opinion SCCS / 1594 / 18 of the Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety (SCCS). This aqueous dispersion comprises between 45% and 55% water by weight.

[0053] - Phenylene bis-diphenyltriazine is present in amounts between 40% and 50%,

[0054] - PPG-1-PEG-9 Lauryl Glycol Ether is present at approximately 4.5%, with the % being expressed by weight relative to the total weight of the dispersion.

[0055] In particular embodiments of the invention, the D50 size of the bis-diphenyltriazine phenylene particles contained in the composition according to the invention is between 100 nm and 1000 nm, typically between 100 nm and 500 nm, in particular between 120 nm and 400 nm, in particular between 120 nm and 250 nm, more particularly between 120 nm and 200 nm and, more particularly still, between 150 nm and 200 nm.

[0056] The term "D50 size" or "median size" refers to the size for which the cumulative particle size distribution function is equal to 50%. The D50 size value can be determined using a Mastersizer 3000 liquid-based laser diffraction particle size analyzer.

[0057] When present, phenylene bis-diphenyltriazine represents between 1% and 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the cosmetic composition according to the invention. In particular embodiments of the invention, it represents between 2% and 5%, in particular between 2% and 4%, and preferably between 3% and 4%, by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0058] It is understood that these mass percentages, as well as all those indicated in this description, are expressed as a percentage of the mass of active material relative to the total mass of the composition.

[0059] In addition to at least two oil-soluble organic filters and possibly at least one particulate organic filter, the composition according to the invention may or may not include at least one water-soluble organic sunscreen, such as phenylbenzimidazole sulfonic acid. Thus, the composition according to the invention may further include phenylbenzimidazole sulfonic acid as a water-soluble organic sunscreen. In particular embodiments of the invention, the at least one water-soluble organic sunscreen, and in particular phenylbenzimidazole sulfonic acid, represents between 0.1% and 3%, in particular between 0.2% and 2%, and especially between 0.5% and 1.5%, by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0060] In a particular embodiment, the total number of UV filters present in the composition according to the invention is greater than or equal to 3, in particular less than or equal to 5 and preferably 4 or 5.

[0061] In a particular embodiment, all the UV filters present in the composition represent between 4% and 30% by weight, in particular between 6% and 28% by weight, notably between 8% and 25% by weight, typically between 10% and 23% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0062] In a particular embodiment, a mixture comprising at least two fat-soluble organic filters usable in the cosmetic composition according to the invention is a mixture comprising or consisting of phenylene bis-diphenyl triazine, bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine, ethylhexyl triazone and diethylamino hydroxy benzoyl hexyl benzoate.

[0063] In another particular embodiment, a mixture comprising at least two fat-soluble organic filters usable in the cosmetic composition according to the invention is a mixture comprising or consisting of diethylhexyl butamido triazone, bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine, ethylhexyl triazone, diethylamino hydroxy benzoyl hexyl benzoate and phenylbenzimidazole sulfonic acid.

[0064] Another essential feature of the invention is that the cosmetic composition is free of dibutyl adipate, homosalate, mineral filters and volatile silicones.

[0065] In this description, "free of an ingredient" means that the composition contains less than 0.01% by weight, preferably less than 0.001% by weight, of that ingredient, relative to the total weight of the composition, or, even more preferably, that it does not contain that ingredient.

[0066] The expressions "devoid of" or "free of" are, in this description, equivalent and may be used interchangeably. Thus, the cosmetic composition according to the invention is free of dibutyl adipate for the reasons mentioned above, namely hydrolysis and release of butanol.

[0067] The cosmetic composition according to the invention is also free of homosalate. The latter is particularly controversial due to its potentially harmful effects on the user or the environment.

[0068] Furthermore, the cosmetic composition according to the invention is free of mineral filters, i.e. inorganic filters such as particulate inorganic filters, like the mineral filters titanium dioxide (TiC₂) or zinc oxide (ZnO).

[0069] Finally, the composition according to the invention is free of volatile silicones (also known as volatile silicone oils).

[0070] Volatile silicones are short-chain cyclic polymers with the general formula [Si-(CH3)2-O]n, where n=3-7. Commonly referred to as cyclomethicone, regardless of the number of repeating units, the most common are cyclotetrasiloxane (n=4) and cyclopentasiloxane (n=5), but cyclotrisiloxane (n=3), cyclohexasiloxane (n=6), and cycloheptasiloxane (n=7) are also examples. Volatile silicones are known to accumulate in the environment and are not biodegradable due to their high stability. Studies have shown that cyclopentasiloxane, for example, has a potential for bioaccumulation in aquatic environments (Gobas et al., 2015, Environmental Toxicology and Chemistry, 34, 12:2703-2714).

[0071] Advantageously, the cosmetic composition according to the invention is further free of octocrylene, ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate, isoamyl methoxycinnamate, para-aminobenzoic acid (PABA), octyl dimethyl PABA, 3-methylbenzylidene camphor, 4-methylbenzylidene camphor, benzophenone-3, and / or benzophenone-4. Octocrylene is suspected of being a potential endocrine disruptor. Other sunscreens present in many commercial products are also subject to controversy due to their potentially harmful effects on the user or the environment. Examples include derivatives of cinnamate (ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate, isoamyl methoxylcinnamate), para-aminobenzoic acid (PABA, octyl dimethyl PABA), camphor (3-methylbenzylidene camphor, 4-methylbenzylidene camphor), and benzophenone (benzophenone-3, benzophenone-4). The use of such compounds is therefore undesirable.

[0072] Another essential feature of the invention is the use, in the cosmetic composition according to the invention, of a mixture of cetearyl olivate and sorbitan olivate thanks to which the cosmetic composition presents a better SPF with an equal quantity of UV filters and this without degrading the texture and sensoriality of the cosmetic composition in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion.

[0073] In the mixture of cetearyl olivate and sorbitan olivate used in the cosmetic composition according to the invention, cetearyl olivate may be present in an amount of X% by weight and sorbitan olivate in an amount of (100-X)% by weight, relative to the total weight of the mixture, with X representing a real number strictly between 0 and 100, i.e., 0 <X<100.

[0074] In a preferred embodiment, cetaryl olivate is present in an amount of 60% by weight and sorbitan olivate in an amount of 40% by weight, relative to the total weight of the mixture of cetearyl olivate and sorbitan olivate used in the cosmetic composition according to the invention.

[0075] Up to 2% by weight, this mixture is considered a co-emulsifier; above 2%, it is described as a separate emulsifier. In the context of the cosmetic composition according to the invention, this mixture is therefore present in a content less than or equal to 2% by weight, preferably strictly less than 2% by weight, relative to the weight of the total composition.

[0076] Furthermore, the cosmetic composition comprising at least one emulsifier in a content greater than or equal to that of the component having the higher content between cetearyl olivate and sorbitan olivate in the mixture of cetearyl olivate and sorbitan olivate confirms the fact that neither cetearyl olivate nor sorbitan olivate can be considered as an emulsifier and in particular as the major emulsifier of the cosmetic composition according to the invention.

[0077] Preferably, the mixture content of cetearyl olivate and sorbitan olivate is between 0.5% and 2% by weight (the 2% limit may optionally be excluded), typically between 0.5% and 1.9% by weight, in particular between 0.5% and 1.8% by weight, especially between 0.5% and 1.7%, more particularly between 0.5% and 1.6%, and preferably between 0.5% and 1.5% by weight relative to the weight of the total composition. Even more preferably, the mixture content of cetearyl olivate and sorbitan olivate is 1% by weight relative to the total weight of the cosmetic composition according to the invention.

[0078] The cosmetic composition according to the invention comprises one or more emulsifiers, advantageously chosen from emulsifying agents capable of forming oil-in-water emulsions. The emulsifying agent(s) may, for example, be chosen from ethoxylated fatty alcohols, products marketed under the names Montanov® 68 (Cetearyl Alcohol (and) Cetearyl Glucoside), Montanov® 202 (Arachidyl Alcohol (and) Behenyl Alcohol (and) Arachidyl Glucoside), Montanov® L (C14-C22 Alcohol (and) C12-C20 Alkyl Glucoside, and Montanov® 82 (Cetearyl Alcohol (and) Coco-Glucoside), potassium cetyl phosphate, glucoside waxes, glyceryl stearate citrate, lauryl glucoside and polyglyceryl-2 dipolyhydroxystearate, in particular the product marketed under the name Eumulgin® VL 75, Polyglyceryl-6 stearate (and) Polyglyceryl-6 behenate, in particular the product marketed under the name TEGOCARE PBS 6 MB, lecithins,including hydrogenated soy lecithin, glyceryl monostearate, glyceryl stearate (and) PEG-100 stearate, in particular the product marketed under the name TEGOCARE 165 MB, sorbitan monostearate, in particular the product marketed under the name Montanov® 60 ECAILLES, sodium dilauramidoglutamide lysine, sodium stearoyl glutamate, in particular the product marketed under the name Eumulgin® SG, sodium stearoyl lactylate, sucrose stearate, etc.

[0079] In particular embodiments of the invention, the total number of emulsifiers in the cosmetic composition according to the invention is at least 2 and at most 6, in particular less than or equal to 5, typically less than or equal to 4, and, in particular, at most 3.

[0080] In particular embodiments of the invention, the emulsifier(s) are present in the composition at a total content of 1% to 12% by weight, in particular 1.5% to 10% by weight, typically 2% to 8% by weight, in particular 3% to 8% by weight, and, more particularly, 3% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Such contents advantageously allow for good emulsion stability and good sensory qualities of the composition.

[0081] In particular embodiments, when the cosmetic composition according to the invention comprises several emulsifiers, each of the emulsifiers is present in a content of between 0.25% and 3% by weight, in particular between 0.5% and 2.5% and, in particular, between 0.5% and 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the cosmetic composition according to the invention.

[0082] In a particular embodiment, the combination of emulsifiers usable in the cosmetic composition according to the invention is a mixture comprising or consisting of cetyl phosphate potassium, lauryl glucoside and polyglyceryl-2 dipolyhydroxystearate.

[0083] In another particular embodiment, the combination of emulsifiers usable in the cosmetic composition according to the invention is a mixture comprising or consisting of sodium stearoyl glutamate, lauryl glucoside and polyglyceryl I-2 dipolyglyceryl roxystearate.

[0084] The cosmetic composition according to the invention comprises one or more oily emollients.

[0085] In the present description, the term "oily emollient" means an ingredient present in the oily phase and providing the composition according to the invention with good sensory qualities and a good ability to soften the epidermis.

[0086] Preferably, the oily emollient(s) contained in the composition according to the invention are in liquid form, particularly at any temperature between 5°C and ambient temperature (between 20°C and 25°C).

[0087] Oily emollients typically include one or more polar chemical functions among the ester (-CO2-), alcohol (-OH), ether (-O-), carbonate (-OCO2-) and carboxylic acid (-CO2H) functions, and one or more lipophilic groups, i.e. one or more aliphatic and / or aromatic hydrocarbon groups, in particular one or more saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched hydrocarbon chains, comprising between 6 and 20 carbon atoms, for example between 7 and 18 carbon atoms, especially between 8 and 16 carbon atoms, a phenyl group (-CeHs) and / or a phenylalkyl group.

[0088] The composition according to the invention preferably comprises at least one oily emollient selected from C9 to C12 alkanes, C12-C15 alkyl benzoate, caprylic / capric triglycerides, dicaprylyl carbonate, coco-caprylate, coco-caprylate / caprate, diisopropyl sebacate, diethylhexyl succinate, isopropyl palmitate, isopropyl myristate, propylheptyl caprylate, phenethyl benzoate, diisopropyl adipate, glyceryl tri-2-ethylhexanoate, pentaerythrityl tetra-2-ethylhexanoate, cetyl 2-ethylhexanoate, isononyl isonanoate, neopentyl glycol diheptanoate, diethylhexyl succinate, butylene glycol dicaprylate / dicaprate, octyldodecanol, and propylene glycol. dicaprylate / dicaprate and dicaprylyl ether, or any mixture thereof.

[0089] In particular embodiments of the invention, the oily emollient(s) contained in the cosmetic composition according to the invention are liquid lipophilic emollients, capable of totally solubilizing the liposoluble sunscreen(s) present in the composition and are preferably chosen from among C9-C12 alkanes, C12-C15 alkyl benzoate, dicaprylyl carbonate, diisopropyl adipate, coco-caprylate caprate, diisopropyl sebacate, neopentyl glycol diheptanoate, diethylhexyl succinate, glyceryl tri-2-ethylhexanoate, isononyl isonanoate and cetyl 2-ethylhexanoate.

[0090] In particular embodiments of the invention, the total number of oily emollients in the cosmetic composition according to the invention is at least 2 and at most 6, in particular less than or equal to 5, typically at most 4.

[0091] In particular embodiments of the invention, the oily emollient(s) and / or are present in the composition in a total content of 10% to 40% by weight, in particular 15% to 40% by weight, typically 15% to 35% by weight, in particular 20% to 30% by weight, and, more particularly, 20% to 25% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0092] In particular embodiments, when the cosmetic composition according to the invention comprises several oily emollients, each of the oily emollients is present in a content of between 2% and 20% by weight, in particular between 3% and 15% and, in particular, between 4% and 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the cosmetic composition according to the invention.

[0093] In a particular embodiment, the combination of oily emollients usable in the cosmetic composition according to the invention is a mixture comprising or consisting of diisopropyl adipate, C12-C15 alkyl benzoate, dicaprylyl carbonate and C9-C12 alkane.

[0094] The composition according to the invention may contain any other cosmetically compatible ingredient, classic in itself in the field of cosmetic compositions intended for topical application on the skin and hair.

[0095] In the present invention, "cosmetically compatible" means something that is useful in the preparation, preservation, or administration of a cosmetic composition and that is generally safe, non-toxic, and neither biologically nor otherwise undesirable, and that is acceptable for human cosmetic use.

[0096] These ingredients are specifically chosen to improve the properties of the composition, for example its moisturizing power, or to give it additional properties.

[0097] The composition according to the invention may thus include excipients in particular selected from consistency factors, texturizing agents, water-retaining agents, gelling agents, humectants, opacifiers, perfumes, essential oils, preservatives, sequestrants, bactericides, odor absorbers, alkalizing or acidifying agents, or any other ingredient usually used for the manufacture of sun compositions.

[0098] Preferably, the composition according to the invention does not contain any controversial ingredients.

[0099] In particular embodiments, the cosmetic composition according to the invention may further comprise at least one gelling agent.

[0100] The gelling agent(s), when present in the cosmetic composition according to the invention, is / are preferably chosen from xanthan gum, scleroglucan gum, carrageenans, gellan gum, diutan gum, and Caesalpinia spinosa gum, or any mixture thereof.

[0101] In particular embodiments, the cosmetic composition according to the invention contains a total of less than 2% by weight of gelling agent(s), in particular less than 1% by weight of gelling agent and, more specifically, less than 0.6% by weight of gelling agent(s), relative to the total weight of the composition. In particular embodiments, the cosmetic composition according to the invention may further comprise at least one texturizing agent.

[0102] The texturizing agent(s) that the cosmetic composition according to the invention may contain can also be described as mattifying agent(s) or oil-absorbing agent(s). Advantageously, this / these texturizing agent(s) is / are in powder form.

[0103] The texturizing agent(s), when present in the cosmetic composition according to the invention, is / are preferably chosen from ingredients in the starch family, such as rice, corn, and tapioca starches, talcs and cellulose and its derivatives such as microcrystalline cellulose and cellulose gum, or any mixture thereof.

[0104] In particular embodiments of the invention, the texturizing agent(s) represent(s) between 0.5% and 15% by weight, in particular between 1% and 10% by weight and, preferably still between 1% and 6% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0105] In particular embodiments, the cosmetic composition according to the invention may further comprise an extract of Lens esculenta seed, this species being commonly known as green lentil. This extract is preferably obtained by aqueous extraction. It preferably contains, or is essentially composed of, an oligosaccharide fraction, in particular composed mainly of oligosaccharides of the trehalose, maltose, maltotriose, stachyose, and verbascose type. In particular embodiments of the invention, the Lens esculenta seed extract contains from 20% to 40% by weight, in particular from 25% to 35% by weight, of said oligosaccharide fraction, relative to the total weight of the extract (in the dry state).

[0106] The total quantity of Lens esculenta seed extract in the cosmetic composition according to the invention is typically between 0.025% and 0.2% by weight, in particular between 0.025% and 0.15% by weight, and especially between

[0107] 0.025% and 0.10% by weight.

[0108] In particular embodiments, the cosmetic composition according to the invention may, in addition, comprise at least one non-microplastic acrylate and / or at least one non-microplastic acrylate derivative.

[0109] Any non-microplastic acrylate and / or any non-microplastic acrylate derivative may be used in the composition according to the invention. In preferred embodiments of the invention, acrylates and their derivatives that may be used in the composition according to the invention, alone or in any of their mixtures, correspond to the following INCI names: Acrylates / C 10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, Acrylates / vinyl isodecanoate crosspolymer, Sodium Polyacrylate, Hydroxyethyl Acrylate / Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer, Acrylates Copolymer, Polyacrylate-13, Polyacrylamide, Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate / VP Copolymer. Hydroxyethyl Acrylate / Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer, Sodium Acrylate / Acryloyldimethyltaurate / Dimethylacrylamide Crosspolymer, Carbomer, Polyphosphorylcholine Glycol Acrylate,

[0110] Acrylates / Ethylhexyl Acrylate Copolymer, Glyceryl Acrylate / Acrylic Acid Copolymer, Sodium Acrylate / Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer, Butyl Acrylate / lsobornyl Methacrylate Copolymer, Poly C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate.

[0111] In particular embodiments of the invention, the non-microplastic acrylate(s) and / or their derivative(s) represent between 0.1% and 2% by weight and, in particular, between 0.2% and 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0112] Conversely, the cosmetic composition according to the invention is free of microplastic acrylates and, more generally, of microplastics such as, in particular, microplastic polyquaterniums.

[0113] The term "microplastic" in the context of the present invention refers to microparticles of synthetic polymers, and refers to the definition given in the regulation published on 27 September 2023 "Commission Regulation (EU) 2023 / 2055 of 25 September 2023 amending Annex XVII to Regulation (EC) No 1907 / 2006 of the European Parliament and of the Council concerning the Registration, Evaluation, Authorisation and Restriction of Chemicals (REACH), as regards synthetic polymer microparticles."According to this document, microplastics, or microparticles of synthetic polymers, are defined as polymers that are solid and that either are contained within particles and constitute at least 1% by weight of these particles, or form a continuous surface coating on particles, when at least 1% by weight of these particles fulfill one of the following conditions: (a) all dimensions of the particles are less than or equal to 5 mm; (b) the length of the particles is less than or equal to 15 mm and their length-to-diameter ratio is greater than 3. The following polymers are excluded from this designation:

[0114] (a) polymers resulting from a polymerization process that has occurred in nature, which are not chemically modified substances;

[0115] (b) polymers that are degradable as proven in accordance with Annex 15 of the document;

[0116] (c) polymers which have a solubility greater than 2 g / L as proven in accordance with Annex 16 of the document (water solubility test at pH 7 under stirring for 24h at 20°C, with a polymer loading of 10 g / 1000 mL, according to the protocol of Test No. 120 or Test No. 105 of the OECD Guidelines for the Testing of Chemicals);

[0117] (d) polymers that do not contain carbon atoms in their chemical structure. Microparticles of synthetic polymers covered by the derogation provided for in point 4a of the said draft amendment to Annex XVII are also excluded from this definition.

[0118] More generally, microplastics can be defined as particles with all dimensions less than 5 mm, formed or coated with solid synthetic organic polymer(s) that are insoluble in water and non-biodegradable.

[0119] In particular embodiments of the invention, the cosmetic composition according to the invention contains little or no humectant(s), but a maximum of 10% by weight, for example between 0.01% and 8% by weight, and in particular a maximum of 5% by weight, for example between 0.01% and 4% by weight, of the total humectant(s) relative to the total weight of the composition. For the purposes of this description, "humectant" means a polyol. A "polyol," also called a polyalcohol, is defined here, in its classical form, as a compound comprising a hydrocarbon chain with at least two carbon atoms and comprising at least two hydroxyl groups.

[0120] The polyol(s) that may be contained in the composition according to the invention may be natural or synthetic. They may have a linear, branched or cyclic molecular structure.

[0121] In particular embodiments in which the composition according to the invention contains at least one humectant, this may be chosen from glycerin and its derivatives, and glycols and their derivatives. At least one humectant, preferably each of the humectants contained in the composition according to the invention, is preferably selected from the group consisting of glycerin, diglycerin, polyglycerin, diethylene glycol, propylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, butylene glycol, pentylene glycol, hexylene glycol, 1,3-propanediol, 1,5-pentanediol, 1,2-hexanediol, octane 1,2-diol, polyethylene glycols, in particular having 5 to 50 ethylene oxide groups, but also erythritol, threitol, arabitol, xylitol, ribitol, mannitol, sorbitol, galactitol, fucitol, iditol, inositol, volemitol, isomalt, maltitol, lactitol, the maltotriitol, maltotetrol, and polyglycitol.

[0122] In particular embodiments of the invention, the composition thus contains at least one humectant, preferably at least glycerin, preferably in an amount less than or equal to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0123] Preferably, the cosmetic composition according to the invention contains less than 4% by weight of humectant(s) relative to the total weight of the composition. Preferably, the cosmetic composition according to the invention contains less than 3% by weight of humectant(s), in particular less than 2.5% by weight of humectant(s), and especially less than 2% by weight of humectant(s), relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0124] In particular embodiments of the invention, when the cosmetic composition according to the invention comprises one or more polyols, the weight ratio of the mixture of cetearyl olivate and sorbitan olivate to the total weight of polyols is between 1 and 10, in particular between 1 and 8 and, in particular, between 1 and 6.

[0125] In particular embodiments of the invention, the cosmetic composition according to the invention contains less than 1% by weight of perfume, preferably less than 0.8% by weight, more preferably less than 0.6% by weight, and even more preferably less than 0.5% by weight of perfume, relative to the total weight of the composition. In other particular embodiments of the invention, the cosmetic composition according to the invention is perfume-free.

[0126] In particular embodiments of the invention, the composition according to the invention is preferably free of volatile ingredients, other than volatile silicones, which it lacks. For the purposes of this invention, "volatile ingredients" means non-alcoholic organic or inorganic compounds such as esters or alkanes, characterized by a flash point below 60°C.

[0127] The term "flash point" (FP) is classically defined as the minimum temperature at which a combustible substance emits vapors in a concentration sufficient to form a gaseous mixture with the surrounding air that ignites upon contact with a flame or a hot spot, but insufficient for combustion to propagate spontaneously in the absence of a pilot flame. According to Regulation (EC) No 1272 / 2008 on the classification, labelling and packaging of substances and mixtures, a substance with an FP such that 23°C < FP < 60°C belongs to category 3, "low flammability".

[0128] Thus, the composition according to the present invention is in particular preferably free of volatile esters, such as isohexyl neopentanoate, and / or volatile alkanes, such as isohexadecane.

[0129] The composition according to the invention may contain one or more monoalcohols. However, it is preferably free of monoalcohols.

[0130] In certain embodiments of the invention, the composition is further devoid of essential oils. Indeed, most essential oils contain allergens, which can cause skin irritation and intolerance. Dyes with the same characteristics are preferably also avoided for similar reasons.

[0131] In particular embodiments of the invention, the composition is devoid of ethylenediaminetetraacetic acid (EDTA). Alternatively, it may contain such an acid.

[0132] In particular embodiments of the invention, the composition is devoid of silica, silica being relatively controversial for an application in the cosmetic field, in particular due to the negative environmental impact linked to its production.

[0133] In particular embodiments of the invention, the composition is devoid of mica.

[0134] In particular embodiments of the invention, the composition is devoid of pigments.

[0135] In particular embodiments of the invention, the cosmetic composition according to the invention is free of microplastics and / or volatile ingredients and / or mica and / or pigments.

[0136] The composition according to the invention also exhibits good viscosity, without the need for any additional thickening ingredients. In this description, "good viscosity" means a viscosity that allows the composition to be dispensed from various packaging options, including tubes, pump bottles, and dropper bottles, and prevents it from slipping out of the user's hands during dispensing. The cosmetic sunscreen composition of the present invention is thus advantageously stable, with the desired viscosity, appearance, color, microscopic properties, and pH range.

[0137] In particularly preferred embodiments of the invention, the cosmetic composition has a dynamic viscosity at 25°C + / - 2°C less than or equal to 10,000 mPa·s, preferably between 500 mPa·s and 10,000 mPa·s, more preferably between 600 mPa·s and 5,000 mPa·s, and for example between 900 mPa·s and 4,000 mPa·s. This viscosity can, for example, be measured using a Rheomat viscometer by applying the following parameters: moving part 2, speed 17.7 s -1 , for 10 seconds. The composition according to the invention also has a sun protection factor (SPF) of between 20 and 99, in particular between 30 and 80 and, in particular, between 50 and 80.

[0138] The total SPF of the composition is evaluated in a conventional manner on its own, for wavelengths between 290 and 400 nm. Its value can be determined according to ISO 24444 "Sun protection test methods - In vivo determination of the sun protection factor (SPF) 2019".

[0139] Another aspect of the invention relates to the use of a cosmetic composition according to the invention for sun protection of the skin and / or hair of a subject, this use including the topical application of the composition to said skin and / or hair. The subject may be a mammal, in particular a human.

[0140] Throughout this description, the term "skin" encompasses both the skin proper and mucous membranes, particularly the lips. The term "cutaneous" encompasses both what relates to the skin and what relates to the mucous membranes.

[0141] For such use, the cosmetic composition may be in any conventional form suitable for topical application to the skin and / or hair. It may, in particular, but not exclusively, be in the form of a fluid emulsion, a rich emulsion, a cream, a milk, or a lotion.

[0142] The composition according to the invention may be intended to be applied to the skin of the face and / or body, and / or to the hair. It may, for example, be in the form of a protective, treatment or care cream or balm for the face, hands and / or body, or a protective, treatment or care body lotion.

[0143] The composition according to the invention can, for example, be applied topically to an area of ​​skin of the subject concerned, such as the skin of the face, including the lips, or of the body, in an effective quantity, as often as necessary before or during exposure to sunlight or artificial ultraviolet radiation.

[0144] The application of the composition to the skin includes bringing it into contact with the skin, this contact preferably being followed by a massage of the skin, in particular by rotary movements, so as to promote the penetration of the composition into the skin.

[0145] After application, no sticky residue or white marks are observed on the skin. In other words, the composition according to the invention advantageously leaves no visible and / or unpleasant marks on the skin.

[0146] The invention is also expressed in terms of a therapeutic method for the sun protection of an area of ​​skin of a subject, in particular a human, this method comprising the topical application, on this area of ​​skin, of an effective quantity of a cosmetic composition according to the invention.

[0147] This process can meet one or more of the characteristics described above with reference to the use of the composition according to the invention for sun protection of the skin and / or hair.

[0148] The present invention also relates to a method for the non-therapeutic cosmetic treatment of an area of ​​skin and / or hair of a subject, particularly a human, for the sun protection of that area of ​​skin and / or hair, by topical application to that area of ​​skin and / or hair of an effective amount of a cosmetic composition according to the invention. Again, this method may meet one or more of the characteristics described above with reference to the use of the composition according to the invention for the sun protection of the skin and / or hair.

[0149] Another object of the invention relates to the non-therapeutic cosmetic use of a cosmetic composition according to the invention for sun protection of an area of ​​skin and / or hair of a subject, particularly a human. This use includes the topical application of this composition to this area of ​​skin and / or hair. It may have one or more of the characteristics described above with reference to the use of the composition according to the invention for sun protection of the skin and / or hair.

[0150] EXAMPLES

[0151] The features and advantages of the invention will become more apparent in the light of the following implementation examples, provided for illustrative purposes only and in no way limiting the invention.

[0152] 1 / Example 1 - Composition according to the invention featuring a 4-filter photoprotective system and comparative compositions. A cosmetic composition according to the invention, named "Composition A", is described in Table 1 below, in which the content of each ingredient is indicated as a percentage by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Two comparative compositions are also described in Table 1, one containing no booster, named "Composition 1", and the other containing a different "booster" than the one used in the invention, named "Composition 2".

[0153] The other ingredients are present in identical quantities in the three compositions described in Table 1. Thus, the 4-filter photoprotective system used in these compositions consists of phenylene bis-diphenyl triazine, bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine, ethylhexyl triazone, and diethylamino hydroxybenzoyl hexyl benzoate, each of these filters being present in the same quantity in all three compositions. [Table 1]

[0154] Table 1 - Formula of the composition according to the invention (Composition A) and of comparative compositions (Composition 1 and Composition 2)

[0155] 2 / Example 2 - Composition according to the invention presenting a photoprotective system with 5 filters and comparative composition A cosmetic composition according to the invention, named "Composition B", is described in Table 2 below in which the contents of each of the ingredients are indicated as % by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0156] A comparative composition, named "Composition 3", is also described in Table 2 which differs from Composition B only by the absence of the booster (mixture of cetearyl olivate and sorbitan olivate).

[0157] The other ingredients are present in identical quantities in both compositions described in Table 2. Thus, the 5-filter photoprotective system implemented in these compositions consists of diethylhexyl butamido triazone, bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine, ethylhexyl triazone, diethylamino hydroxy benzoyl hexyl benzoate and phenylbenzimidazole sulfonic acid, each of these filters being in an identical quantity in both compositions.

[0158] [Table 2]

[0159] Table 1 - Formula of the composition according to the invention (Composition B) and of the comparative composition (Composition 3)

[0160] 3 / Example 3 - Characterization of the different compositions

[0161] The five compositions, conforming to the invention (Composition A and Composition B) and non-conforming (Composition 1, Composition 2 and Composition 3), are tested to evaluate their visual appearance, SPF value, and viscosity. Finally, a sensory analysis is performed.

[0162] The different test protocols performed are as follows: Fluidity

[0163] Viscosity measures the resistance of a fluid. This analysis helps determine how fluid or viscous a formula is. Product viscosity impacts packaging selection, active ingredient release, spreadability, and the overall consumer experience. This analysis is performed at 25°C using an RM200 rheometer (RHEOMAT) with the following parameters: mobile 2 and its associated speed of 17.7 s -1 for 10 seconds.

[0164] Sun protection effectiveness

[0165] The evaluation of the photoprotection provided by the 4 compositions was carried out according to the ISO 24444 standard "Sun protection test methods - In vivo determination of the sun protection factor (SPF) 2019".

[0166] This evaluation was conducted on 10 subjects (male and female, aged 24 to 58 years, mean age: 43 years). The composition was applied to the dorsal infrascapular area. The area was irradiated with a controlled dose of ultraviolet radiation and then evaluated between 16 and 24 hours post-irradiation.

[0167] Sensory

[0168] The texture of the 5 compositions was evaluated by applying 60 µl of each composition to the anterior surface of the evaluator's forearm, who is a person trained in this type of exercise.

[0169] Various criteria were evaluated, such as skin penetration, oily appearance, and stickiness. These criteria were assessed 5 minutes after application, using a scale of 1 to 10.

[0170] During all tests, the temperature and humidity of the rooms are checked, and the lighting is controlled.

[0171] Results

[0172] The results are summarized in Table 3 below. Composition 1 and Composition 3 serve as controls. Thus, the viscosity of Composition A and Composition 2 is expressed as the percentage change in viscosity compared to the viscosity of Composition 1. Similarly, the viscosity of Composition B is expressed as the percentage change in viscosity compared to the viscosity of Composition 3. SPF values ​​are means ± standard deviations.

[0173] [Table 3]

[0174] Table 3 - Viscosity, Sensory Quality ("Senso") and SPF of the compositions according to the invention (Composition A and Composition B) and of the comparative compositions (Composition 1, Composition 2 and Composition 3)

[0175] For a 4-filter photoprotective system:

[0176] Composition 1 already has a high SPF (>50), a fluidity of around 1000 cps and shows an interesting sensory profile, namely no sticky or oily effect and does not show any white traces after application.

[0177] Composition 2, which includes a known and well-documented SPF booster (hydrogenated palm oil & saccharum offininarum (sugarcane) extract), exhibits higher viscosity and altered sensory characteristics (Table 3), which are therefore detrimental to the objective of the present invention. This composition is thus evaluated as non-compliant and its SPF was not measured ("nd" for "not determined").

[0178] [Table 4]

[0179] Table 4 - Results of the sensory study

[0180] The values ​​in Table 4 represent the variations in grades between those of Composition A or Composition 2 versus those of Composition 1.

[0181] A significant difference is demonstrated when a delta of at least 0.5 is obtained. Indeed, for Composition 2, the scores related to penetration speed and stickiness / oily effects are significantly different from those obtained for Composition 1 (without booster). Thus, these differences in sensory experience and impact on fluidity are too significant for this composition.

[0182] Surprisingly, the presence of the cetearyl olivate / sorbitan olivate mixture in the composition according to the invention (Composition A) does not cause any change in viscosity (less than 5% variation) and above all does not affect the sensory quality of the composition; while allowing a significant increase in SPF compared to that of Composition 1 (without booster ingredient and with equal quantities of filters).

[0183] For a 5-filter photoprotective system: Composition 3, as expected, has a very good SPF value (>50), a fluidity of around 1400 cps, i.e. slightly more viscous than that of Composition 1, but it shows an interesting sensory profile, namely no sticky or oily effect after application.

[0184] Surprisingly, the composition according to the invention (Composition B) exhibits a higher SPF than that obtained with the composition without the cetearyl olivate / sorbitan olivate mixture. Furthermore, the addition of this ingredient does not alter the viscosity of the composition (less than 5% variation) and does not affect its sensory characteristics in any way.

Claims

DEMANDS 1. Cosmetic sun protection composition in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion, suitable for topical application to the skin, and comprising, with percentages expressed by weight relative to the total weight of the composition: - 25% to 65% water, - at least two organic, oil-soluble sunscreens, - a mixture of cetearyl olivate and sorbitan olivate in a content of 2% or less, - at least one emulsifier present in a content greater than or equal to that of the component with the higher content between cetearyl olivate and sorbitan olivate in the mixture of cetearyl olivate and sorbitan olivate, and - at least one oily emollient, said composition being free of dibutyl adipate, homosalate, mineral filters and volatile silicones.

2. Cosmetic composition according to claim 1, comprising at least two, in particular at least three and, in particular, at least four liposoluble organic sunscreens selected from diethylamino hydroxybenzoyl hexyl benzoate, bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine, diethylhexyl butamido triazone, ethylhexyl triazone, 2-ethylhexyl salicylate, butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane and methoxypropylamino cyclohexenylidene ethoxyethylcyanoacetate.

3. Cosmetic composition according to claim 1 or 2, further comprising the particulate organic sunscreen phenylene bisdiphenyltriazine.

4. Cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 3, further comprising the water-soluble organic sunscreen, phenylbenzimidazole sulfonic acid.

5. Cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 4, characterized in that all the UV filters represent between 4% and 30% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

6. A cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 5, characterized in that it is free from octocrylene, ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate, isoamyl methoxycinnamate, and para-aminobenzoic acid. (PABA), octyl dimethyl PABA, 3-methylbenzylidene camphor, 4-methylbenzylidene camphor, benzophenone-3 and / or benzophenone-4.

7. A cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 6, characterized in that the content of the mixture of cetearyl olivate and sorbitan olivate is 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the cosmetic composition according to the invention.

8. Cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 7, comprising at most three emulsifying agents.

9. Cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 8, comprising at most four oily emollients.

10. Cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 9, further comprising at least one gelling agent.

11. A cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 10, further comprising at least one texturizing agent 12. Cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 11, further comprising an extract of Lens esculenta seed, 13. Cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 12, further comprising at least one non-microplastic acrylate and / or at least one non-microplastic acrylate derivative 14. Cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 13, cosmetic composition is free from microplastics and / or volatile ingredients and / or mica and / or pigments.

15. Cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 14, for use for sun protection of the skin and / or hair of a subject, wherein said composition is applied topically to said skin and / or hair.

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