Skin care composition

Abstract

A composition for skincare comprising, in its hydrophilic phase: (i) at least one C5-C10 diol; (ii) at least one linear unsaturated C18-C30 monohydric alcohol; and (iii) at least one hydrophilic cosmetic active ingredient. A non-therapeutic method for skincare comprising applying the composition to the skin, and the use of a combination of at least one C5-C10 diol and at least one linear unsaturated C18-C30 monohydric alcohol to improve the penetration of the hydrophilic cosmetic active ingredient into the skin.

Description

Technical Field

[0001] This invention relates to a composition. In particular, it relates to compositions for skin care. The invention also relates to non-therapeutic methods for skin care, and the use of a combination of at least one C5-C10 diol and at least one linear unsaturated C18-C30 monohydric alcohol for improving the penetration of water-soluble cosmetic active ingredients into the skin. Background Technology

[0002] The skin is the body's protective barrier. It protects the body's internal organs from physical damage (such as trauma) and biological damage (such as bacteria, viruses, or fungi). Human skin consists of the dermis and the epidermis. The epidermis is the outermost layer of the skin, and its surface layer is called the stratum corneum.

[0003] The development of formulations for the care and / or cosmetic of skin and / or lips is a permanent endeavor.

[0004] To date, several prior art documents have been published concerning compositions containing cosmetic active ingredients.

[0005] JP-A-2011-73992 discloses a composition comprising the following components (A) to (F): (A) 10-50 parts by weight of one or more polyglycerol fatty acid esters having an HLB of 10-18, obtained from polyglycerol and fatty acids having 8-22 carbon atoms; (B) 1-30 parts by weight of one or more fatty acid monoglycerides, obtained from glycerol and fatty acids having 8-22 carbon atoms; (C) 0.1-30 parts by weight of an oil in liquid form at 25°C; (D) 10-35 parts by weight of a polyol; (E) 5-40 parts by weight of water; and (F) 0.01-10 parts by weight of a ceramide.

[0006] WO 2005 / 065630 A1 discloses a single-phase microemulsion composition comprising (A) a hydrophilic nonionic surfactant, (B) a lipophilic nonionic surfactant, (C) an oil, (D) an aqueous solvent immiscible with the oil, wherein the critical micelle concentration (cmc) of the hydrophilic nonionic surfactant is higher than that in water, and (E) water.

[0007] WO 2004 / 045566 discloses a translucent cosmetic product composed of an O / W emulsion containing (a) ceramides, (b) an oil component, (c) a nonionic surfactant, and (d) water, with an average particle size of 100-300 nm.

[0008] However, for many compositions containing cosmetic active ingredients for caring for keratin materials, the active ingredients have difficulty penetrating into the keratin materials.

[0009] For compositions containing cosmetic active ingredients, the penetration of the active ingredients into the stratum corneum is one of the most important properties.

[0010] Therefore, it is still necessary to formulate skin care compositions that have an improved effect on allowing the contained cosmetic active ingredients to penetrate into the stratum corneum. Summary of the Invention

[0011] The inventors have now discovered that such compositions can be formulated to improve the penetration of the contained cosmetic active ingredients into the stratum corneum.

[0012] Therefore, in a first aspect, the present invention relates to a composition for skin care, comprising, in a hydrophilic phase:

[0013] (i) at least one C5-C10 diol;

[0014] (ii) at least one linear unsaturated C18-C30 monohydric alcohol; and

[0015] (iii) At least one hydrophilic cosmetic active ingredient.

[0016] The compositions of the present invention may be in the form of an emulsion or a liquid, such as a toner or a serum.

[0017] In a second aspect, the present invention relates to a non-therapeutic method for caring for the skin, comprising applying a composition according to a first aspect of the invention to the skin.

[0018] It has been found that the hydrophilic cosmetic active ingredients contained in the compositions according to the present invention can easily penetrate into the stratum corneum.

[0019] In a third aspect, the present invention relates to the use of a combination of at least one C5-C6 diol and at least one linear unsaturated C18-C30 monohydric alcohol for improving the penetration of hydrophilic cosmetic active ingredients into the skin.

[0020] Other subjects, features, aspects and advantages of the invention will become even clearer from the following detailed description and examples. Brief description of the attached diagram

[0022] Specific embodiments of the invention will now be described by way of example only, with reference to the accompanying drawings, in which:

[0023] Figure 1 It showed that nicotinamide was 400-2000 cm⁻¹ -1 Raman spectra.

[0024] Figure 2 It shows the 400-2000 cm of Bosein. -1 Raman spectra.

[0025] Figure 3 The permeation curves of nicotinamide and bosine in the composition of Background 1 are shown.

[0026] Figure 4 The permeation curves of nicotinamide and bosine in the composition of Background 2 are shown.

[0027] Figure 5 The permeation curves of nicotinamide and bosine in the composition of Comparative Formulation 1 are shown;

[0028] Figure 6 The permeation curves of nicotinamide and bosine in the composition of Comparative Formulation 2 are shown;

[0029] Figure 7 The permeation curves of nicotinamide and bosine in the composition of Comparative Formulation 3 are shown;

[0030] Figure 8 The permeation curves of nicotinamide and bosine in the composition of formulation 1 of the present invention are shown;

[0031] Figure 9 A comparison of the nicotinamide permeation curves of the compositions of formulations 1-3 and formulation 1 of the present invention is shown; and

[0032] Figure 10 The permeation curves of Bosein in the compositions of Comparative Formulations 1-3 and Formulation 1 of the present invention are shown.

[0033] Detailed description of the invention

[0034] According to a first aspect, the present invention provides a composition for skin care, comprising, in a hydrophilic phase:

[0035] (i) at least one C5-C10 diol;

[0036] (ii) at least one linear unsaturated C18-C30 monohydric alcohol; and

[0037] (iii) At least one hydrophilic cosmetic active ingredient.

[0038] Unless otherwise defined, all technical and scientific terms used herein have the same meaning as commonly understood by one of ordinary skill in the art to which this invention pertains. Where a definition of a term in this specification conflicts with the meaning commonly understood by one of ordinary skill in the art to which this invention pertains, the definition set forth herein shall prevail.

[0039] In the following, and unless otherwise stated, the limits of the numerical range are included within the range, especially in the expressions “...to…” and “within the range of…”.

[0040] Furthermore, the expression "at least one / kind" used in this specification is equivalent to the expression "one / kind or more / kinds".

[0041] In this application, the term "comprising" should be interpreted as including all specifically mentioned features as well as optional, additional, or unspecified features. As used herein, the use of the term "comprising" also discloses embodiments in which features other than those specifically mentioned (i.e., "consisting of") are absent.

[0042] Unless otherwise stated, all numerical values ​​used in the specification and claims to represent quantities of components, etc., should be understood to be modified by the term "about". Therefore, unless indicated to the contrary, the numerical values ​​and parameters described herein are approximate values ​​that can be varied according to the desired intended purpose.

[0043] Unless otherwise stated, all percentages in this invention refer to weight percentages.

[0044] hydrophilic

[0045] According to a first aspect, the composition of the present invention comprises a hydrophilic phase.

[0046] The hydrophilic phase contains at least one solvent selected from water and C2-C4 diols.

[0047] Preferably, the hydrophilic phase comprises at least one water-miscible (at room temperature 25°C) organic solvent, such as a monohydric alcohol having 2-6 carbon atoms, such as ethanol, isopropanol, or a trihydric alcohol, such as glycerol.

[0048] In some preferred embodiments, the hydrophilic phase of the composition of the present invention comprises water and glycerol.

[0049] If present, water is preferably present in the composition of the invention in an amount of 1% to 80% by weight, preferably 5% to 77% by weight, and more preferably 10% to 75% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0050] The hydrophilic phase is preferably present in an amount of 10% to 99% by weight of the total weight of the composition, more preferably 20% to 90% by weight, and even more preferably 50% to 85% by weight.

[0051] C5-C10 diols

[0052] According to a first aspect, the composition of the present invention comprises at least one C5-C10 diol.

[0053] Preferably, the diol has 5-8 carbon atoms, that is, it is a C5-C8 diol.

[0054] More preferably, the diol is selected from C5-C6 diols.

[0055] Therefore, in some preferred embodiments, the compositions of the present invention comprise at least one C5-C8 diol, preferably a C5-C6 diol.

[0056] Examples of C5-C10 diols that can be used in the compositions of the present invention include pentanediol, hexanediol, dipropylene glycol, heptanediol, octanediol, nonanediol, and decanediol.

[0057] In this invention, the definition of diol includes all possible isomers. For example, pentanediol includes 1,5-pentanediol, 2,4-pentanediol, etc.

[0058] In a more preferred embodiment, the composition comprises pentanediol.

[0059] Advantageously, the C5-C10 diol is present in an amount of 0.1% to 10% by weight, preferably 0.2% to 5% by weight, and more preferably 0.5% to 3% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0060] Linear unsaturated C18-C30 monohydric alcohols

[0061] According to a first aspect, the composition of the present invention comprises at least one linear unsaturated C18-C30 monohydric alcohol.

[0062] Linear unsaturated C18-C30 monohydric alcohols have the structure R-OH, where R represents a linear alkenyl group containing 18-30 carbon atoms.

[0063] Preferably, the linear unsaturated C18-C30 monohydric alcohol is selected from monohydric alcohols with the structure R-OH, where R represents a linear alkenyl group containing 18-24 carbon atoms.

[0064] Most preferably, the linear unsaturated C18-C30 monohydric alcohol is oleyl alcohol.

[0065] As a commercial product of linear unsaturated C18-C30 monohydric alcohols, one can mention oleyl alcohols sold by BASF under the name HD OCENOL 80 / 85V / MB or by CRODA under the name CRODACOL A 10.

[0066] Advantageously, the linear unsaturated C18-C30 monohydric alcohol is present in an amount of 0.1% to 10% by weight, preferably 1% to 10% by weight, and more preferably 2% to 8% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0067] Hydrophilic cosmetic active ingredients

[0068] According to a first aspect, the composition of the present invention comprises at least one hydrophilic cosmetic active ingredient.

[0069] For the purposes of this invention, the term "hydrophilic cosmetic active ingredient" refers to a cosmetic active ingredient that is soluble or dispersible in a hydrophilic phase as defined above.

[0070] Examples of hydrophilic cosmetic active ingredients include:

[0071] -Te-phenylenediamine dicamphor sulfonic acid (Ecamsule), phenylbenzimidazole sulfonic acid (Ensulzole), benzophenone-4, aminobenzoic acid (PABA), camphor benzalkonium methyl sulfate, methylene bis-benzotriazolyl tetramethylbutylphenol (Bisoctrizole), disodium phenylbenzimidazole tetrasulfonate (Bisdisulizole disodium), tri-biphenyltriazine; their derivatives and corresponding salts; naphthaline bisimide derivatives and cinnamido amine cationic quaternary salts and derivatives, and mixtures thereof;

[0072] - Pro-Xylane (hydroxypropyltetrahydropyrantriol), flavonoids, stilbenes, tannins, phenolic acids, polyphenols, vitamins, xanthines, ceramides, cholesterol, sphingosine, C-glycosides, zwitterionic N-substituted aminosulfonic acid buffers, sugars, nucleic acids, α-hydroxy acids and β-hydroxy acids, aminopropyltriethoxysilane, dihydroxyacetone, plant extracts, amino acids and peptides, their derivatives, and combinations thereof; and

[0073] -Ascorbic acid and its biocompatible salts, enzymes, antibiotics, components with tightening effects, α-hydroxy acids and their salts, hydroxylated polyacids, sucrose and its derivatives, urea, amino acids, oligopeptides, carnosine, acetyl tetrapeptide-9, palmitoyl tripeptide-1, water-soluble plant and yeast extracts, protein hydrolysates, hyaluronic acid, mucopolysaccharides, vitamins B2, B3 (nicotinamide), B6, H and PP, panthenol, folic acid, acetylsalicylic acid, allantoin, glycyrrhetinic acid, kojic acid and hydroquinone.

[0074] Preferably, the hydrophilic cosmetic active ingredient is selected from Pro-Xylane (hydroxypropyl tetrahydropyranotriol), niacinamide, and mixtures thereof.

[0075] Advantageously, the hydrophilic cosmetic active ingredient is present in an amount of 0.1% to 40% by weight, preferably 1% to 35% by weight, and more preferably 10% to 35% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0076] Fat phase

[0077] In some embodiments, the compositions of the present invention further comprise a fatty phase.

[0078] The fatty phase preferably comprises at least one oil. The oil may be volatile or non-volatile.

[0079] The term "oil" refers to a non-aqueous compound that is liquid at room temperature (25°C) and atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg) and is immiscible with water.

[0080] The term "non-volatile oil" refers to oils that can be retained on keratin materials for at least several hours at room temperature and atmospheric pressure, and especially those with a vapor pressure of less than 10. -2 mmHg (0.13 Pa). Non-volatile oils can also be defined as having a certain evaporation rate, such that under the aforementioned conditions, the amount evaporated after 30 minutes is less than 0.07 mg / cm³. 2 .

[0081] These oils can be of plant, mineral, or synthetic origin.

[0082] Preferably, the oil is selected from hydrocarbonated, silicone-based, or fluorinated oils.

[0083] The term "hydrocarbon-based oil" or "hydrocarbonized oil" refers to oils that are essentially formed or even constituted by carbon and hydrogen atoms, and optionally O and N atoms, and do not contain Si and F heteroatoms. Such oils may contain alcohol, ester, ether, carboxylic acid, amine, and / or amide groups.

[0084] The term "silicone oil" refers to an oil containing at least one silicon atom, especially an oil containing Si-O groups.

[0085] The term "fluorinated oil" refers to an oil containing at least one fluorine atom.

[0086] The fatty phase may be present, for example, in an amount of 0.01% to 50% by weight, preferably 0.05% to 30% by weight, and more preferably 0.1% to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0087] Additional adjuvants or additives

[0088] The compositions of the present invention may contain conventional cosmetic auxiliaries or additives, such as fragrances, chelating agents (e.g., disodium EDTA), preservatives (e.g., chlorphenesin and phenoxyethanol), bactericides, surfactants, thickeners, fillers, pH adjusters (e.g., citric acid, sodium hydroxide, potassium hydroxide), and mixtures thereof.

[0089] According to a particularly preferred embodiment, the present invention provides a composition for skin care, which comprises, by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, the following in the hydrophilic phase:

[0090] (i) 0.5% to 3% by weight of pentanediol;

[0091] (ii) 2% to 8% by weight of oleyl alcohol; and

[0092] (iii) 10% to 35% by weight of at least one hydrophilic cosmetic active ingredient selected from Pro-Xylane, niacinamide and mixtures thereof.

[0093] Methods and uses

[0094] According to a second aspect, the present invention relates to a non-therapeutic method for caring for the skin, comprising applying a composition according to a first aspect of the invention to the skin.

[0095] In particular, keratin is a material found in skin.

[0096] Therefore, in an embodiment of the second aspect, the present invention provides a non-therapeutic method for caring for the skin, comprising applying a composition according to the first aspect of the present invention to the skin.

[0097] In a third aspect, the present invention relates to the use of a combination of at least one C5-C10 diol and at least one linear unsaturated C18-C30 monohydric alcohol for improving the penetration of hydrophilic cosmetic active ingredients into the skin.

[0098] C5-C10 diols and linear unsaturated C18-C30 monohydric alcohols are defined as above.

[0099] Preferably, at least one C5-C10 diol is selected from C5-C8 diols, and at least one linear unsaturated C18-C30 monohydric alcohol is selected from monohydric alcohols with structure R-OH, wherein R represents a linear alkenyl group containing 18 to 24 carbon atoms.

[0100] More preferably, at least one C5-C10 diol is pentanediol, and at least one linear unsaturated C18-C30 monohydric alcohol is oleyl oil.

[0101] Preferably, the hydrophilic cosmetic active ingredient is selected from Pro-Xylane, niacinamide, and mixtures thereof.

[0102] The following examples are used to illustrate the present invention, but are not intended to limit the invention in substance. Example

[0103] Example 1: Preparation of the composition

[0104] Compositions according to the comparative formulation (Comp.) and the formulation of the present invention (Inv.) are prepared according to the contents given in Table 1 (unless otherwise stated, the contents are expressed as a weight percentage of the active substance relative to the total weight of each composition).

[0105] Table 1

[0106]

[0107]

[0108]

[0109] The composition of Comparative Formulation 1 does not contain C5-C10 diols and linear unsaturated C18-C30 monohydric alcohols.

[0110] The composition of Comparative Formulation 2 does not contain C5-C10 diols.

[0111] The composition of Comparative Formulation 3 does not contain linear unsaturated C18-C30 monohydric alcohols.

[0112] The following two compositions were also prepared according to the contents given in Table 2 (unless otherwise stated, the contents are expressed as a weight percentage of the active substance relative to the total weight of each composition) as baseline compositions for the following Raman spectroscopy experiments.

[0113] Table 2

[0114]

[0115]

[0116] Preparation method:

[0117] The compositions listed above are prepared as follows, taking the composition of formulation 1 of the present invention as an example:

[0118] 1. Mix water, nicotinamide, hydroxypropyltetrahydropyranotriol (Bosene), pentanediol, glycerol, phenoxyethanol, and potassium hydroxide to obtain a hydrophilic phase, and heat the hydrophilic phase to 75°C;

[0119] 2. Stearic acid, glyceryl stearate (and) PEG-100 stearate, caprylic / capric triglyceride, pentaerythritol tetraisostearate, isononyl isononanoate, shea butter, octyl polymethylsiloxane, bisPEG / PPG-16 / 16PEG / PPG-16 / 16 polydimethylsiloxane (and) caprylic / capric triglyceride; myristyl myristate and oleyl alcohol are mixed to obtain an oil phase, and the oil phase is heated to 85°C;

[0120] 3. Add the oil phase to the hydrophilic phase and homogenize at 1500-2000 rpm for 10 minutes to obtain a mixture;

[0121] 4. Add sodium polyacrylate and xanthan gum to the mixture;

[0122] 5. Cool the mixture to 55°C, add the spices (if desired), and cool to room temperature to obtain the composition.

[0123] Example 2: Evaluation of the composition

[0124] The following characterizes the penetration of the cosmetic active ingredients in each composition prepared in Example 1.

[0125] i) Preparation of skin tissue samples

[0126] Apply 6 μl of each formulation composition evenly to a 0.8 cm × 0.8 cm piece of pig skin (pig ear skin from the food industry), equivalent to 9 mg / cm². 2 The pig skin samples were then placed on an insert membrane with PBS underneath and incubated at 37°C for 2 hours at 95% RH. The treated samples were then embedded in OCT tissue cryopreservation medium, frozen, and cut into 20 μm thick pieces at low temperature. These were further placed on a CaF2 substrate for Raman confocal scanning. Three pig samples were prepared for each formulation. Raman confocal imaging was acquired for each treated sample.

[0127] ii) Raman spectroscopy

[0128] A LabRam HR Evolution (Horiba Jobin-Yvon, Villeneuve-d'Ascq, France) Raman confocal microscope was used. Raman spectra were obtained on the samples using a 532 nm DPSS laser at 8 mW power, with an additional ×50 LM plan objective (Olympus, NA 0.75, Rungis, France). For all measurements, the confocal aperture was set to a diameter of 100 μm. The system spectrum was calibrated to 520.7 ecm for silicon prior to testing. -1 Spectral lines. Detection is facilitated by using a 600-line / mm grating to disperse Raman-shifted radiation onto a charge-coupled device (CCD) detector.

[0129] For pure cosmetic active ingredients, the concentration is between 400-2000 cm. -1 The spectral range was acquired using a single-point spectrum with 25% laser intensity and a 10-second acquisition time.

[0130] For imaging in sample evaluation, a step size of 3 μm was used in both the X and Y directions. The acquisition area was 18 × 150 μm. For each point, 50% laser intensity and a 5-second acquisition time / spectrum were used. The spectral range was 400–2000 cm⁻¹. -1 .

[0131] iii) Data Analysis

[0132] Non-negative constrained least squares (NCLS) analysis was performed using Matlab. Linear baseline correction was performed on the Raman spectra prior to statistical analysis. The concentration of the cosmetic active ingredient was 400-2000 cm⁻¹. -1The spectral fingerprint was analyzed.

[0133] Figure 1 It showed that nicotinamide was 400-2000 cm⁻¹ -1 Raman spectroscopy.

[0134] Figure 2 It shows the 400-2000 cm of Bosein. -1 Raman spectroscopy.

[0135] A simplified description of NCLS results can be defined as:

[0136] Ss=(SR1*C1)+(SR2*C2)+……+(SRi*Ci)+R*CR

[0137] Ss: Raman signal of one pixel on the processed pig skin sample;

[0138] SRi: Raman signal of each suppositional ingredient (PCA component) in untreated pigs;

[0139] R: Raman signal of pure cosmetic active ingredients;

[0140] Ci: The coefficient for each presumed component (PCA component) in the precise pixel;

[0141] CR: Coefficient of cosmetic active ingredients in precise pixels;

[0142] The computer coefficient index of active ingredients can be used to generate distribution curves of ACI from the outer stratum corneum of the skin to the deeper dermis.

[0143] Figure 3 The permeation curves of nicotinamide and bosine in the composition of Background 1 are shown.

[0144] Figure 4 The permeation curves of nicotinamide and bosine in the composition of Background 2 are shown.

[0145] Figure 5 The permeation curves of nicotinamide and bosine in the composition of Comparative Formulation 1 are shown.

[0146] Figure 6 The permeation curves of nicotinamide and bosine in the composition of Comparative Formulation 2 are shown;

[0147] Figure 7 The permeation curves of nicotinamide and bosine in the composition of Comparative Formulation 3 are shown;

[0148] Figure 8 The permeation curves of nicotinamide and bosine in the composition of formulation 1 of the present invention are shown;

[0149] Figure 9 A comparison of the nicotinamide permeation curves of the compositions of formulations 1-3 and formulation 1 of the present invention is shown; and

[0150] Figure 10 The permeation curves of Bosein in the compositions of Comparative Formulations 1-3 and Formulation 1 of the present invention are shown.

[0151] from Figure 9 As can be seen, the combination of C5-C10 diol and linear unsaturated C18-C30 monohydric alcohol can improve the penetration of nicotinamide into the skin after topical application.

[0152] from Figure 10 As can be seen, the combination of C5-C10 polyols and linear unsaturated C18-C30 monohydric alcohols can improve the penetration of BOXEL into the skin after topical application.

Claims

1. A composition for skin care, comprising, by weight of, a hydrophilic phase relative to the total weight of the composition: (i) 0.5% to 3% by weight of pentanediol; (ii) 2% to 8% by weight of oleyl alcohol; and (iii) 10% to 35% by weight of at least one hydrophilic cosmetic active ingredient selected from Pro-Xylane, niacinamide and mixtures thereof.

2. The composition of claim 1 further comprises conventional cosmetic auxiliaries or additives selected from fragrances, chelating agents, preservatives, bactericides, surfactants, thickeners, fillers, pH adjusters, and mixtures thereof.

3. The composition according to claim 1, wherein the hydrophilic phase comprises at least one solvent selected from water and C2-C4 diols.

4. A non-therapeutic method for caring for the skin, the method comprising applying the composition according to any one of claims 1-3 to the skin.

5. A combination of pentylene glycol, oleyl alcohol, and at least one hydrophilic cosmetic active ingredient selected from Pro-Xylane, niacinamide, and mixtures thereof for non-therapeutic uses to improve the penetration of the hydrophilic cosmetic active ingredient into the skin.

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