Compositions comprising baicalin and specific acrylic polymers

By combining baicalin with specific acrylic polymers and UV shielding agents, the solubility and stability issues of baicalin cosmetic compositions were resolved, achieving a matte finish and a fresh, non-greasy skin feel, while enhancing protective performance.

CN116898752BActive Publication Date: 2026-02-03LOREAL SA
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Patent Information

Application Number
CN202310803263.5
Authority / Receiving Office
CN · China
Patent Type
Patents(China)
Current Assignee / Owner
Priority Date
2017-11-15
Filing Date
2018-11-15
Publication Date
2026-02-03
Estimated Expiration
2038-11-15

AI Technical Summary

Technical Problem

Existing baicalin cosmetic compositions have low solubility in aqueous media, are unstable at pH, are prone to yellowing, and are difficult to provide a matte finish and a fresh, non-greasy skin feel, especially under conditions of high oil and sweat.

Method used

By combining baicalin with specific acrylic polymers and UV shielding agents, a uniform, fresh, and non-greasy film is formed on the skin through thickening and stabilizing of baicalin, providing a matte finish and protection against UV radiation.

Benefits of technology

This study achieves stability and a matte finish in baicalin cosmetic compositions, providing a fresh, non-greasy skin feel and enhancing evenness and protective properties on the skin.

✦ Generated by Eureka AI based on patent content.

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Abstract

The present application relates to a composition for topical application comprising baicalin and / or at least one derivative thereof or an extract containing baicalin and / or at least one derivative thereof and at least one acrylic polymer, and the use of said composition in the fields of cosmetics and dermatology and in particular for caring for, protecting and / or making up the body or facial skin, or for hair care, preferably for caring for the body or facial skin. Also subject of the present invention is a method for the cosmetic treatment of a keratin material, comprising the application to the keratin material of a composition as defined above, and also the use of said composition in the fields of cosmetics or dermatology and in particular for caring for, protecting and / or making up the body or facial skin, or for hair care, preferably for caring for the body or facial skin.
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Description

[0001] This application is a divisional application of Chinese invention application No. 201880073832.2 (International Application No. PCT / EP2018 / 081472), filed on November 15, 2018, entitled "Composition containing baicalin and specific acrylic polymers". Invention Field

[0002] This application relates to a composition, particularly a composition for topical application, comprising baicalin and / or its derivatives or extracts comprising baicalin and / or its derivatives and at least one acrylic polymer, and the use of said composition, particularly in the fields of non-therapeutic cosmetics and dermatology, and especially for the care, health care, protection and / or cosmetic use of keratin materials such as skin, particularly body or facial skin or hair, preferably for the care of body or facial skin.

[0003] The present invention also relates to a composition, particularly a composition for topical application, comprising baicalin and / or its derivatives or extracts containing baicalin and / or its derivatives, at least one acrylic polymer and at least one UV shielding agent, and the use of said composition, particularly in the fields of non-therapeutic cosmetics and dermatology, and especially for the protection of keratin materials against solar radiation, particularly for skin and / or lips and / or hair. Background Technology

[0004] Many cosmetic compositions containing baicalin (particularly as an antioxidant or photoprotectant) or extracts thereof are known in the prior art. Patent application EP 2729117 A1 specifically describes a photoprotective composition containing baicalin.

[0005] Baicalin of formula (II) below:

[0006]

[0007] Baicalin is a particularly beneficial polyphenol in cosmetics due to its antioxidant activity, which enables the treatment or prevention of premature aging of keratin materials such as skin caused by UV radiation or atmospheric factors such as pollutants. However, baicalin has very low solubility in aqueous media, especially at low pH values. Furthermore, at pH values ​​above 6, baicalin is chemically unstable and readily degraded.

[0008] In addition, one of the drawbacks is that baicalin causes yellowing in compositions containing it, which is unacceptable from a cosmetic point of view.

[0009] Therefore, a technical problem is to obtain cosmetic compositions containing baicalin or extracts thereof, which are stable and acceptable from a cosmetic point of view, and in particular minimize yellowing as much as possible.

[0010] Furthermore, in the field of photoprotection, there has always been a need for compositions that can achieve a matte finish on the skin. In fact, skin shine, often associated with high levels of sebum secretion, is a problem that essentially affects adolescents but can also occur in adults, especially as a result of excessive androgen production or external factors such as pollution. Skin shine can also be related to sweating caused by physical activity or climatic conditions (heat, humidity). Skin shine may be due to a combination of these two phenomena (sebum and sweat).

[0011] Achieving a matte finish on the skin is highly desirable for users with combination or oily skin, as well as for cosmetic compositions intended for use in hot and humid climates. In fact, shine caused by excess sebum and / or sweat on the skin's surface is generally considered unattractive. Shiny skin also typically leads to poorer staying power of cosmetics, which therefore tend to deteriorate throughout the day.

[0012] Therefore, another technical problem is to obtain cosmetic compositions containing baicalin, which enable a matte finish on the skin.

[0013] Finally, there is a need for cosmetic compositions, especially skincare or makeup compositions, that contain baicalin or extracts thereof, which are refreshing and non-greasy when applied. Summary of the Invention

[0014] The inventors have demonstrated that the combination of baicalin and / or its derivatives or extracts containing baicalin and / or its derivatives with at least one polymer (b) described below enables the minimization of baicalin xanthation in compositions containing it.

[0015] In addition, these compositions have the good property of matting oily and / or shiny skin. They are also refreshing and non-greasy when applied.

[0016] Therefore, the subject of this invention is a composition for topical application comprising baicalin and / or at least one derivative thereof or an extract containing baicalin and / or at least one derivative thereof, and at least one polymer b described below.

[0017] Moreover, adding polymer b) as described below to a composition containing baicalin and / or its derivatives or an extract containing baicalin and / or its derivatives enables it to be satisfactorily thickened without impairing the thickening properties of the polymer during pH changes required to dissolve baicalin and / or its derivatives.

[0018] Furthermore, the resulting composition has a very satisfactory texture, particularly in terms of consistency, as well as in its sensory properties, especially the fresh, soft, non-greasy, and non-sticky feeling on the skin during and after application. The composition according to the invention is stable over time and / or under temperature variations.

[0019] Moreover, the composition according to the invention is easy to apply to the skin, and the film obtained on the skin is uniform. This property is even more pleasant when the composition is used for sun protection.

[0020] Therefore, the subject of this invention is also a composition, and particularly a cosmetic composition, comprising baicalin and / or at least one derivative thereof or an extract containing baicalin and / or at least one derivative thereof, at least one polymer described below (b), and at least one UV shielding agent.

[0021] According to one specific embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises baicalin or an extract containing therein, at least one polymer (b) described below, and at least one UV shielding agent.

[0022] The subject of this invention is also a method for cosmetic treatment of keratin materials, the method comprising applying one of two compositions as defined above to the keratin material.

[0023] The subject of this invention is also the use of one of the two compositions, particularly in the fields of non-therapeutic cosmetics or dermatology, and especially for the care, protection and / or cosmetic application of body or facial skin, or for hair care, preferably for the care and / or protection of body or facial skin.

[0024] The present invention also relates to the use of the compositions according to the invention for reducing UV-induced pigmentation, particularly for cosmetic purposes.

[0025] The present invention also relates to a cosmetic method for caring for and / or makeuping skin and / or lips and / or hair, the method comprising applying a composition according to the invention topically to the skin and / or lips and / or hair.

[0026] The present invention also relates to a cosmetic and / or aesthetic care method comprising applying a composition according to the invention topically to the skin and / or lips and / or hair to combat or prevent photoinduced premature aging of the skin and / or lips and / or hair.

[0027] The present invention also relates to a cosmetic and / or aesthetic care method comprising applying a composition according to the invention topically to the skin and / or lips for protection against solar radiation.

[0028] Finally, the present invention also relates to the use of polymer b) according to the invention for reducing the yellowing of compositions comprising at least baicalin and / or its derivatives or plant extracts comprising baicalin and / or its derivatives. Detailed Implementation

[0029] The compositions according to the invention, i.e., compositions intended for carrying out the invention, can be non-therapeutic cosmetic or dermatological compositions according to the intended application, and thus contain physiologically acceptable media.

[0030] For the purposes of this invention, a physiologically acceptable medium may be a dermatologically or cosmetically acceptable medium, preferably a cosmetically acceptable medium, i.e., one that has no unpleasant appearance or odor and is fully compatible with the skin and skin appendages locally, and is compatible with all keratin materials.

[0031] In the context of this invention, the term "keratin material" is specifically intended to mean skin, scalp, keratin fibers (such as eyelashes, eyebrows, hair, body hair, nails) and mucous membranes such as lips, and more particularly skin (body, face, periorbital area, eyelids).

[0032] In the context of this invention, the composition is intended for local administration, i.e., by application to the surface of the keratin material in question, and more particularly to the surface of the skin in question.

[0033] In the context of this invention, cosmetic or dermatological compositions that can be used generally contain physiologically acceptable media, preferably cosmetically acceptable media.

[0034] In the following text, the expression “at least one” is equivalent to “one or more”, and unless otherwise stated, the limit values ​​of the range are included within the range.

[0035] Baicalin and its derivatives or extracts containing them

[0036] The compositions according to the present invention comprise baicalin and / or at least one derivative thereof or plant extracts containing baicalin and / or at least one derivative thereof.

[0037] Baicalin and its derivatives, as well as methods for their preparation, have been described, particularly in application WO 2005 / 044281. They are selected from compounds of formula (I):

[0038]

[0039] in:

[0040] X1, X2, X3, X4, X5, X a X b X c X d X e and X f Each can be represented independently as O or S;

[0041] Y1, Y2, Y3, Y4, Y5, and Y6 each independently represent H or (C1-C 10 alkyl groups, especially methyl groups;

[0042] R4, R5, R a R b and R c Each independently represents H, optionally surrounded by 1 to 5 groups R. y Replacement (C1-C) 10 )alkyl, or (C1-C 10 )alkyl-O-(C1-C 10 ) alkyl, each (C1-C 10 Alkyl groups may be composed of 1 to 5 R groups. y replace;

[0043] R y Each represents R independently. q or -(C2-C 10 )alkenyl, -(C2-C 10 ) ynyl group, -(C3-C 10 )cycloalkyl, -(C8-C 14 Bicycloalkyl, -(C8-C 14 Tricycloalkyl, -(C5-C 10 )cycloalkenyl, -(C8-C 14 Tricycloalkenyl, phenyl, naphthyl, -(C 14 ) aryl groups, each possibly bonded by one or more R groups z replace;

[0044] R1, R2, and R3 each independently represent R q or -(C2-C 10 )alkenyl, -(C2-C 10 ) ynyl group, -(C3-C 10 )cycloalkyl, -(C8-C 14 Bicycloalkyl, -(C8-C 14 Tricycloalkyl, -(C5-C 10 )cycloalkenyl, -(C8-C 14Tricycloalkenyl, phenyl, naphthyl, -(C 14 ) aryl groups, each possibly bonded by one or more R groups z replace;

[0045] Rf is H, optionally surrounded by 1 to 5 R groups. y Replacement (C1-C) 12 )alkyl, (C1-C 12 )alkyl-O-(C1-C 12 ) alkyl, each (C1-C 12 Alkyl groups may be composed of 1 to 5 R groups. y replace;

[0046] R q Each of these elements independently is CN, OH, halogen, N3, NO2, N(R) z )2、=NR z CH=NR z NR z OH, OR z COR z C(O)R z O(CO)OR z SR z S(O)R z or S(O)2R z ;

[0047] R z Each of these components independently is -(C1-C6)alkyl, -(C2-C6)alkenyl, -(C3-C8)cycloalkyl, -(C3-C8)cycloalkenyl, phenyl, heterocyclic with 3 to 5 branches, CH (halogen)2 or C (halogen)3; and

[0048] n is 0, 1, 2, 3, 4 or 5;

[0049] And also its salts, its optical isomers and its diastereomers.

[0050] Some compounds of formula (I) may have an asymmetric center and exist in different enantiomeric and diastereomeric forms. Compounds of formula (I) may be in the form of optical isomers or diastereomers. According to the invention, compounds of formula (I) also comprise their optical or diastereomeric forms and mixtures thereof, including racemic mixtures.

[0051] The term "-(C1-C" is used to indicate that the term is not used in the translation. 10 "alkyl" is intended to refer to a saturated, straight-chain or branched, non-cyclic hydrocarbon-based chain having 1 to 10 carbon atoms. As a saturated straight-chain -(C1-C1) 10Examples of alkyl groups may be mentioned: methyl, ethyl, n-propyl, n-butyl, n-pentyl, n-hexyl, n-heptyl, n-octyl, n-nonyl, and n-decyl. As saturated branched groups -(C1-C 10 Examples of alkyl groups may include isopropyl, sec-butyl, isobutyl, tert-butyl, isopentyl, 2-methylbutyl, 3-methylbutyl, 2,2-dimethylbutyl, 2,3-dimethylbutyl, 2-methylpentyl, 3-methylpentyl, 4-methylpentyl, 2-methylhexyl, 3-methylhexyl, 4-methylhexyl, 5-methylhexyl, 2,3-dimethylbutyl, 2,3-dimethylpentyl, 2,4-dimethylpentyl, 2,3-dimethylhexyl, 2,4-dimethylhexyl, 2,5-dimethylhexyl, 2,2-dimethylpentyl, 2, 2-Dimethylhexyl, 3,3-Dimethylpentyl, -3,3-Dimethylhexyl, 4,4-Dimethylhexyl, 2-Ethylpentyl, 3-Ethylpentyl, 2-Ethylhexyl, 3-Ethylhexyl, 4-Ethylhexyl, 2-Methyl-2-Ethylpentyl, 2-Methyl-3-Ethylpentyl, 2-Methyl-4-Ethylpentyl, 2-Methyl-2-Ethylhexyl, 2-Methyl-3-Ethylhexyl, -2-Methyl-4-Ethylhexyl, 2,2-Diethylpentyl, 3,3-Diethylhexyl, 2,2-Diethylhexyl, 3,3-Diethylhexyl.

[0052] The term "-(C2-C" 10 "Alkenyl" is intended to refer to an unsaturated, straight-chain or branched, acyclic hydrocarbon-based chain having 2 to 10 carbon atoms and containing at least one carbon-carbon double bond. As -(C1-C 10 Examples of alkenyl groups include: 2-pentenyl, 3-methyl-1-butenyl, 2-methyl-2-butenyl, 2,3-dimethyl-2-butenyl, 1-hexenyl, 2-hexenyl, 3-hexenyl, 1-heptenyl, 2-heptenyl, 3-heptenyl, 1-octenyl, 2-octenyl, 3-octenyl, 1-nonenyl, 2-nonenyl, 3-nonenyl, 1-decenyl, 2-decenyl, 3-decenyl.

[0053] The term "-(C2-C" 10 "Alkyne" is intended to refer to an unsaturated, straight-chain or branched, acyclic hydrocarbon-based chain having 2 to 10 carbon atoms and containing at least one carbon-carbon triple bond. As -(C1-C 10 Examples of alkynyl groups may be mentioned as: ethynyl, propynyl, 1-butynyl, 2-butynyl, 1-pentynyl, 2-pentynyl, 3-methyl-1-butynyl, 4-pentynyl, 1-hexynyl, 2-hexynyl, 5-hexynyl, 1-hepynyl, 2-hepynyl, 6-hepynyl, 1-octyynyl, 2-octyynyl, 7-octyynyl, 1-nonynyl, 2-nonynyl, 8-nonynyl, 1-decynyl, 2-decynyl, 9-decynyl.

[0054] The term "-(C3-C" is used to indicate that the term is not used in the translation. 10 "Cycloalkyl" is intended to refer to a saturated hydrocarbon-based ring having 3 to 10 carbon atoms. As -(C3-C 10 Examples of cycloalkyl groups may be mentioned: cyclopropyl, cyclobutyl, cyclopentyl, cyclohexyl, cycloheptyl, cyclooctyl, cyclononyl, and cyclodecyl.

[0055] The term "-(C8-C" is used to indicate that the term is not used in the translation. 14 "Bicycloalkyl" is intended to refer to a hydrocarbon-based bicycle having 8 to 14 carbon atoms and at least one saturated cycloalkyl ring. As -(C8-C 14 Examples of bicycloalkyl groups may be mentioned: indanyl, 1,2,3,4-tetrahydronaphthyl, 5,6,7,8-tetrahydronaphthyl and perhydronaphthyl.

[0056] The term "-(C8-C" is used to indicate that the term is not used in the translation. 14 "Tricycloalkyl" is intended to refer to a tricyclic hydrocarbon having 8 to 14 carbon atoms and at least one saturated cycloalkyl ring. As -(C8-C 14 Examples of tricycloalkyl groups may be mentioned: pyrene, 1,2,3,4-tetrahydroanthracite, perhydroanthracite, acetoanthracite, 1,2,3,4-tetrahydrophenanthrene, 5,6,7,8-tetrahydrophenanthrene and perhydrophenanthrene.

[0057] The term "-(C5-C" is used to indicate that the term is not used in the translation. 10 "Cycloalkenyl" is intended to refer to a non-aromatic hydrocarbon-based cyclic group having at least one carbon-carbon double bond and 5 to 10 carbon atoms in a cyclic system. As -(C5-C 10 Examples of cycloalkenyl groups may be mentioned: cyclopentadienyl, cyclohexenyl, cyclohexadienyl, cyclohepteneyl, cycloheptadienyl, cyclohepttrienyl, cyclooctenyl, cyclooctadienyl, cycloocttrienyl, cyclooctatetraenyl, cyclononenyl, cyclononadienyl, cyclodecenyl, and cyclodecadienyl.

[0058] The term "-(C8-C" is used to indicate that the term is not used in the translation. 14 "Bicycloalkenyl" is intended to refer to a hydrocarbon-based bicycle having at least one carbon-carbon double bond and 8 to 14 carbon atoms in each ring. As -(C8-C 14 Examples of bicyclic alkenyl groups may be mentioned: indene, cyclopentadienyl, naphthyl, azuleyl, heptalenyl, and 1,2,7,8-tetrahydronaphthyl.

[0059] The term "-(C8-C" is used to indicate that the term is not used in the translation. 14 "Tricyclic alkenyl" is intended to refer to a hydrocarbon-based tricyclic ring having at least one carbon-carbon double bond and 8 to 14 carbon atoms in each ring. As -(C8-C 14Examples of tricyclic alkenyl groups include: anthracene, phenalenyl, acenaphthalenyl, asymmetric leaded antioxidants, and symmetric leaded antioxidants.

[0060] The term "-(C 14 "Aryl" is intended to refer to an aromatic carbon ring with 14 branches, such as anthracene and phenanthrene.

[0061] The term "heterocycle with 3 to 5 branches" is intended to refer to a saturated, unsaturated, aromatic, or non-aromatic heteromonocycle having 3 to 5 branches with carbon atoms and heteroatoms. Heterocycles with 3 or 4 branches may contain up to 3 heteroatoms, and heterocycles with 5 branches may contain up to 4 heteroatoms. The heteroatoms are each independently selected from nitrogen, oxygen, and sulfur, which may be quaternized, including sulfoxides and sulfones. The heterocycle may be attached via any heteroatom or carbon atom. Examples of heterocycles with 3-5 branches include: furanyl, thiophene, pyrrolyl, oxazolyl, imidazolyl, thiazolyl, isoxazolyl, pyrazolyl, isothiazolyl, triazine, pyrrolidone, pyrrolylalkyl, hydantoin, ethylene oxide, propylene oxide, tetrahydrofuranyl, and tetrahydrothiophene.

[0062] The term "halogen" is intended to refer to halogen atoms such as F (fluorine), Cl (chlorine), Br (bromine) and I (iodine).

[0063] The term "-CH(halogen)2" is intended to refer to a methyl group in which two hydrogen atoms are replaced by halogen atoms. Examples of such methyl groups include -CHF2, -CHCI2, -CHBr2, -CHBrCI, -CHCll, and -CHI2.

[0064] The term "-CH(halogen)3" is intended to refer to a methyl group in which three hydrogen atoms are replaced by halogen atoms. Examples of such methyl groups include -CF3, -CF2CI, -CCI3, -CBr3, -CFBr2, and -CI3.

[0065] The term “salt of a compound of formula (I)” is intended to refer to a salt formed from an inorganic or organic acid or an inorganic or organic base.

[0066] Examples of acid salts include sulfates, citrates, acetates, oxalates, chlorides, bromides, iodides, nitrates, bisulfates, phosphates, isonicotinates, lactates, salicylates, tartrates, oleates, tannins, pantothenates, tartrate, ascorbic acid salts, succinates, maleates, gentianates, fumarates, gluconates, glucurons, sucrose salts, formates, benzoates, glutamates, methanesulfonates, ethanesulfonates, benzenesulfonates, p-toluenesulfonates, and bis(hydroxynaphthyl)ate (i.e., 1,1'-methylenebis(2-hydroxy-3-naphthyl)ate).

[0067] Examples of alkali salts include hydroxides of alkali metals such as sodium, potassium, and lithium; hydroxides of alkaline earth metals such as calcium and magnesium; hydroxides of other metals such as aluminum and zinc; ammonia and organic amines such as unsubstituted or hydroxylated mono-, di-, or trialkylamines; dicyclohexylamine; tributylamine; pyridine; N-methyl-N-ethylamine; diethylamine; triethylamine; mono-, bis-, or tri-(2-hydroxyalkylamines) such as mono-, bis-, or tri-(2-hydroxyethyl)amine, 2-hydroxy-tert-butylamine or tri-(hydroxymethyl)methylamine, N,N-dialkyl-N-(hydroxyalkyl)-amine, such as N,N-dimethyl-N-(2-hydroxyethyl)amine or tri-(2-hydroxyethyl)amine; N-methyl-D-glucosamine; and amino acids such as arginine and lysine.

[0068] According to a preferred form of the invention, groups X1, X2, X3, X4, X5, X... a X b X c X d X e and X f At least one of them is O.

[0069] According to a preferred form of the invention, at least one of the groups Y1, Y2, Y3, Y4, Y5, and Y6 independently represents H.

[0070] According to a preferred form of the invention, at least one of the groups Y1, Y2, Y3, Y4, and Y6 independently represents CH3.

[0071] According to a preferred form of the invention, R1 represents H or CH3.

[0072] According to a preferred form of the invention, n equals 5.

[0073] According to a particularly preferred form, the compositions of the present invention comprise baicalin corresponding to formula (II):

[0074]

[0075] Or plant extracts containing it.

[0076] This compound is specifically described in application WO 2008 / 140440, particularly in solution form. Baicalin can be used in solution form, the solution comprising an alkyl diol having 2 to 7 carbon atoms, a polyol ether, and at least one antioxidant. This organic compound can be obtained as described in EP1400579 (US 2004 / 0067894) concerning the synthesis of tetrahydroxyflavones (whose general formula includes baicalin).

[0077] Baicalin can be used in the form of plant-derived extracts. Baicalin is a polyphenol (flavonoid) extracted particularly from the roots of Scutellaria baicalensis (with INCI name: Scutellaria baicalensis). It originates from traditional Chinese medicine. Various methods for preparing the extract are described in application WO 2005 / 044281.

[0078] Baicalin is specifically marketed by MMP under the trade name Baicalin 95. Available from MMP.

[0079] Baicalin is a yellow powder, optionally with a purity greater than 90% or 95%. Baicalin crystals can also be in the form of needles. It has very low solubility, especially in water at spontaneous pH levels.

[0080] Preferably, baicalin is contained in the cosmetic composition in a completely dissolved state. No residual baicalin crystals are visible to the naked eye under a polarized light microscope or by any technique known to those skilled in the art.

[0081] According to one specific embodiment, baicalin and / or its derivatives are present in the composition according to the invention at an active material concentration ranging from 0.01% to 10% by weight, more preferably from 0.02% to 8% by weight, and even more preferably from 0.1% to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0082] acrylic polymers

[0083] The compositions according to the invention comprise at least one polymer containing monomer units of formulas (A) and (B):

[0084]

[0085] in:

[0086] R1 is selected independently from alkyl or alkenyl radicals;

[0087] Furthermore, at least 60% of the R1 groups by weight are benzyl groups, and the weight percentage is relative to the sum of all R1 groups present in the polymer;

[0088] Furthermore, the weight ratio of the sum of all hydroxyethyl acrylate units to the sum of all acrylate units bearing the R1 group ranges from 1:30 to 1:1.

[0089] Furthermore, the sum of all units A and B is at least 95% by weight of the total weight of the polymer.

[0090] Preferably, R1 is composed of alkyl groups, preferably C. 16 -C 22 Alkyl, and more preferably benzyl (C 22 )constitute.

[0091] Preferably, at least 70% by weight, more preferably at least 80% by weight, and more preferably at least 90% by weight of the R1 group is benzyl.

[0092] According to a preferred embodiment, all groups R1 are benzyl groups.

[0093] Preferably, the weight ratio is in the range of 1:15 to 1:1, and more preferably in the range of 1:10 to 1:4.

[0094] Advantageously, the polymer units present in polymer a) are composed of the previously described units (A) and (B).

[0095] Polymer a) has a number-average molecular weight Mn in the range of 2000 g / mol to 9000 g / mol, preferably in the range of 5000 g / mol to 9000 g / mol. The number-average molecular weight can be measured by gel permeation chromatography, for example, according to the method described in the examples below.

[0096] Preferably, polymer a) has a melting point in the range of 60°C to 69°C, and more preferably in the range of 63°C to 67°C. The melting point is measured by differential scanning calorimetry (DSC), for example according to the method described in the examples below.

[0097] The polymer used according to the present invention a) can be

[0098] It is prepared by polymerization of a monomer of formula CH2=CH-COO-R1 with 2-hydroxyethyl acrylate, where R1 has the meaning described above.

[0099] Polymerization can be carried out using known methods, such as solution polymerization or emulsion polymerization.

[0100] Aggregation is described, for example, in US 2007 / 0264204.

[0101] According to one specific embodiment, the concentration of the active material of polymer b) according to the invention present in the composition according to the invention is greater than or equal to 0.1% by weight, more preferably greater than 0.5% by weight, even more preferably greater than 1% by weight, and preferably greater than 1.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Preferably, the concentration of the active material of polymer b) according to the invention present in the composition according to the invention is from 0.1% to 10% by weight, more preferably from 0.5% to 8% by weight, more preferably from 1% to 5% by weight, and even more preferably from 1.5% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0102] UV shielding agent

[0103] According to one specific embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one UV shielding agent (a reagent for shielding UV radiation from sunlight). The UV shielding agent may be selected from organic UV shielding agents and inorganic UV shielding agents.

[0104] The term "UV shielding agent" is intended to refer to a substance that can absorb at least a portion of the UV radiation emitted by the sun in order to protect the skin and / or lips and / or hair from the harmful effects of this radiation.

[0105] The UV-blocking agent mentioned is a UV-blocking agent commonly used in cosmetics. It can be selected from the positive list contained in Annex VI of Regulation (EC) No. 1223 / 2009, which specifies a list of approved UV-blocking agents for use in cosmetics.

[0106] i) Organic UV shielding agent

[0107] Organic UV shielding agents are particularly selected from cinnamon compounds; diphenyl acrylate compounds; salicylate compounds; dibenzoylmethane compounds; anthranilate compounds; benzylene camphor compounds; benzophenone compounds; triazine compounds; benzotriazole compounds, especially silicone benzotriazole as described in patent EP 0392883, and methylene bis(hydroxyphenylbenzotriazole) compounds as described in applications US 5 237 071, US 5 166 355, GB 2303549, DE 197 26 184 and EP 893119; benzylene malonate compounds, especially those mentioned in patent US 5 624 663; benzimidazole derivatives; imidazoline compounds; bis-benzoazolyl compounds, as described in patents EP 669323 and US 2 463 264; benzoxazole compounds, as described in patent application EP 669323 and US 2 463 264. 0832642, EP1027883, EP 1300137 and DE 10162844; masking polymers and masking silicones, such as those specifically described in application WO-93 / 04665; as in patent US 4,195,999, application WO 2004 / 006878, application WO 2008 / 090066, WO 2011113718, WO 2009027258, WO 2013010590, WO 2013011094, WO 2013011480 and document published in IP COM publication No. 000179675D on February 23, 2009, and IP COM publication published on April 29, 2009. The cyanine compounds described in IP COM publication No. 000182396D, IP COM publication No. 000189542D published on November 12, 2009, and IP COM publication No. IPCOM000011179D published on 04 / 03 / 2004, and mixtures thereof.

[0108] Examples of organic photoprotectants include those indicated by their INCI names:

[0109] Benzoylmethane compounds

[0110] Butylmethoxydibenzoylmethane, particularly produced by DSM Nutritional Products, Inc. under the trade name Parsol For sale.

[0111] Cinnamon compounds:

[0112] Ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate, particularly produced by DSM Nutrition Products under the trade name Parsol For sale

[0113] Isopropyl methoxycinnamate,

[0114] Isoamyl p-methoxycinnamate, produced by Symrise under the trade name Neo HeliopanE For sale

[0115] Salicylic acid compounds:

[0116] Trimethylcyclohexyl salicylate, produced by Rona / EM Industries under the name Eusolex For sale

[0117] Ethylhexyl salicylate, produced by Symrise under the name Neo Heliopan For sale

[0118] Dipropylene glycol salicylate, manufactured by Scher under the name... For sale

[0119] TEA salicylate, produced by Symrise under the name Neo Heliopan For sale

[0120] β,β-diphenylacrylate compounds:

[0121] Octyl cyanobenzyl acrylate, particularly produced by BASF under the trade name Uvinul N For sale

[0122] Ethyl cyanobenzyl acrylate, particularly produced by BASF under the trade name Uvinul N For sale.

[0123] Benzophenone compounds:

[0124] Benzophenone-1 is produced by BASF under the trade name Uvinul. For sale

[0125] Benzophenone-2 is produced by BASF under the trade name Uvinul D. For sale

[0126] Benzophenone-3 or hydroxybenzophenone, produced by BASF under the trade name Uvinul M For sale

[0127] Benzophenone-4 is produced by BASF under the trade name Uvinul MS. For sale

[0128] Benzophenone-5,

[0129] Benzophenone-6, produced by Norquay under the trade name Helisorb For sale

[0130] Benzophenone-8, manufactured by American Cyanamid under the trade name Spectra-Sorb For sale

[0131] Benzophenone-9, produced by BASF under the trade name Uvinul DS For sale

[0132] Benzophenone-12,

[0133] 2-(4-Diethylamino-2-hydroxybenzoyl)benzoate, produced by BASF under the trade name Uvinul A Sold, or as a mixture with octyl methoxycinnamate, under the trade name Uvinul A Plus For sale

[0134] 1,1'-(1,4-piperazinidyl)bis[1-[2-[4-(diethylamino)-2-hydroxybenzoyl]phenyl]methyl ketone] (CAS 919803-06-8), as described in patent application WO 2007 / 071584; this compound is advantageously used in a micronized form (average size of 0.02 to 2 μm) and particularly in an aqueous dispersion form, which can be obtained, for example, by the micronization methods described in patent applications GB-A-2303549 and EP-A-893119.

[0135] Benzyl camphor compounds:

[0136] 3-Benzylene camphor, produced by Chimex under the name Mexoryl Manufactured

[0137] 4-Methylbenzylidene camphor, produced by Merck under the name Eusolex For sale

[0138] Benzyl camphorsulfonic acid, produced by Chesman Corporation under the name Mexoryl Manufactured

[0139] Camphor benzalkonium methyl sulfate, produced by Chesman Corporation under the name Mexoryl Manufactured

[0140] terephthalylidenedicamphorsulfonic acid, produced by Chessman Corporation under the name Mexoryl Manufactured

[0141] Polyacrylamide methyl benzyl camphor, produced by Chemans under the name Mexoryl Manufactured.

[0142] Phenylbenzimidazole compounds:

[0143] Phenylenic acid, particularly by Merck under the trade name Eusolex For sale.

[0144] Bis-benzoazole compounds

[0145] Disodium phenyl dibenzimidazole tetrasulfonate, produced by Symrise under the trade name Neo Heliopan. For sale.

[0146] benzotriazole compounds

[0147] Mexoryl cresoltrazol trisiloxane, produced by Chemans Corporation under the name Mexoryl Manufactured;

[0148] Methylenebis-benzotriazolyltetramethylbutylphenol, especially in solid form, such as that produced by Fairmount Chemical under the trade name MIXXIM. The product is sold either as micronized particles (having an average particle size ranging from 0.01 to 5 μm, more preferably from 0.01 to 2 μm, and more particularly from 0.020 to 2 μm) or as an aqueous dispersion of at least one alkyl polysaccharide surfactant having the following structure:

[0149] CnH 2n+1 O(C6H 10 O5) x H, where n is an integer from 8 to 16 and x is (C6H) 10 The average degree of polymerization of the O5 units ranges from 1.4 to 1.6, as described in patent GB-A-2303549, and is particularly produced by BASF under the trade name Tinosorb. Sold, or in at least one mono-(C8-C) polyglycerol having a degree of polymerization of at least 5 glycerol. 20In the presence of alkyl esters, it is in the form of an aqueous dispersion of micronized particles (having an average particle size ranging from 0.02 to 2 μm, more preferably from 0.01 to 1.5 μm, and more particularly from 0.02 to 1 μm), such as the aqueous dispersion described in application WO 2009 / 063392.

[0150] Triazine compounds:

[0151] -Bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine, produced by BASF under the trade name Tinosorb For sale

[0152] -Ethylhexyltriazine, particularly by BASF under the trade name Uvinul For sale;

[0153] - Diethylhexylbutyramamidotriazinone, produced by Sigma 3V under the trade name Uvasorb For sale;

[0154] - Symmetrical triazine masking agents substituted with naphthyl or polyphenyl groups, which are described in patent US 6,225,467, patent application WO2004 / 085,412 (see compounds 6 and 9) or the document “Symmetrical Triazine Derivatives”, IP.COM, IPCOM000031257, Inc., West Henrietta, NY, US (September 20, 2004), particularly 2,4,6-tris(diphenyl)triazine and 2,4,6-tris(triphenyl)triazine, which are also described in patent applications WO 06 / 035000, WO 06 / 034982, WO 06 / 034991, WO 06 / 035007, WO 2006 / 034992 and WO As mentioned in 2006 / 034985, these compounds are advantageously used in micronized form (average particle size of 0.02 to 3 μm) and especially in aqueous dispersions, said micronized form being obtained, for example, by the micronization method described in patent applications GB-A-2303549 and EP-A-893119;

[0155] - Silicone triazines substituted with two aminobenzoate groups, as described in patent EP 0 841 341, particularly 2,4-bis(4'-aminobenzylmalonate n-butyl ester)-6-[(3-{1,3,3,3-tetramethyl-1-[(trimethylsilyloxy]disiloxyl}propyl)amino]-s-triazine.

[0156] o-aminobenzoic acid compounds:

[0157] Menthyl anthranilate, produced by Symrise under the trade name Neo Heliopan For sale.

[0158] Imidazoline compounds:

[0159] Ethylhexyl dimethoxybenzyl dioxoimidazoline propionate

[0160] benzyl malonate compounds:

[0161] Polysiloxanes containing benzyl malonic acid ester functional groups, such as polysiloxane-15, are produced by DSM Nutrition Products under the trade name Parsol. For sale.

[0162] Benzoxazole compounds:

[0163] 2,4-Bis[5-(1,1-dimethylpropyl)benzoxazol-2-yl(4-phenyl)imino]-6-(2-ethylhexyl)imino-1,3,5-triazine, produced by Sigma 3V under the name Uvasorb For sale.

[0164] ii) Mineral UV shielding agent

[0165] The mineral UV masking agent used according to the present invention is a metal oxide pigment. More preferably, the inorganic UV masking agent of the present invention is a metal oxide particle having an average basic particle size of less than or equal to 0.5 μm, more preferably 0.005 to 0.5 μm, even more preferably 0.01 to 0.2 μm, even better 0.01 to 0.1 μm, and more particularly 0.015 to 0.05 μm.

[0166] They can be specifically selected from titanium oxides, zinc oxides, iron oxides, zirconium oxides and cerium oxides, or mixtures thereof.

[0167] Such coated or uncoated metal oxide pigments are specifically described in patent application EP-A-0 518 773. Commercially available pigments that may be mentioned include those sold by Sachtleben Pigments, Tayca, Merck, and Degussa.

[0168] Metal oxide pigments can be coated or uncoated.

[0169] The coated pigment is a pigment that has undergone one or more surface treatments with various compounds to improve its chemical, electronic, mechanochemical and / or mechanical properties. These compounds are, for example, amino acids, beeswax, fatty acids, fatty alcohols, anionic surfactants, lecithin, sodium, potassium, zinc, iron or aluminum salts of fatty acids, metal (titanium or aluminum) alkoxides, polyethylene, silicone, proteins (collagen, elastin), alkanolamines, silicon oxides, metal oxides or sodium hexametaphosphate.

[0170] The coated pigment is more specifically titanium oxide, which has been coated with the following:

[0171] -Silica, such as products from Ikeda Corporation.

[0172] -Silica and iron oxides, such as Sunveil from Ikeda Corporation.

[0173] -Silica and aluminum oxide, such as Microtitanium Dioxide MT500 from Imperial Chemical Industries. And Microtitanium Dioxide MT 100SA and Tioveil from Tioxide,

[0174] - Alumina, such as Tipaque TTO-55 from Ishihara Corporation. and TipaqueTTO-55 And UVT 14 / 4 from Sargibin Pigments,

[0175] - Alumina and aluminum stearate, such as Microtitanium Dioxide MT100 from Imperial Chemical Industries. MT 100 MT 100 and Solaveyil CT-10, a product from Uniqema. and Solaveil CT And Eusolex, a product from Merck.

[0176] -Silica, alumina, and alginate, such as MT-100 from Imperial Chemical Industries.

[0177] - Alumina and aluminum laurate, such as Microtitanium Dioxide MT100 from Imperial Chemical Industries.

[0178] - Iron oxides and iron stearate, such as Microtitanium Dioxide MT100 from Imperial Chemical Industries.

[0179] - Zinc oxide and zinc stearate, such as products from Imperial Chemical Industries BR

[0180] -Silica and alumina, treated with silicone, such as Microtitanium Dioxide MT 600 from Imperial Chemical Industries. Microtitanium Dioxide MT 500 or MicrotitaniumDioxide MT 100

[0181] -Silica, alumina, and aluminum stearate, treated with silicone, such as products from Titan Kogyo Co., Ltd.

[0182] -Silica and treated with silicone, such as UV-Titan X from Sarchebin Pigments.

[0183] - Alumina treated with silicone, such as Tipaque TTO-55 from Ishihara Corporation. Or UV Titan M from Sargibin Pigment Company

[0184] - Triethanolamine, such as STT-65-S from Titanium Industries, Ltd.

[0185] - Stearic acid, such as Tipaque TTO-55 from Ishihara S.A.

[0186] - Sodium hexametaphosphate, such as Microtitanium Dioxide MT 150 from Imperial Chemical Industries.

[0187] - TiO2 treated with octyltrimethylsilane, produced by Degussa Silices under the trade name T For sale

[0188] - TiO2 treated with polydimethylsiloxane, manufactured by Cardre under the trade name 70250CardreUF For sale

[0189] - Anatase / rutile TiO2 treated with polydimethylsiloxane, produced by ColorTechniques under the trade name Micro Titanium Dioxide USP Grade For sale.

[0190] It may also be mentioned that TiO2 pigments are doped with at least one transition metal such as iron, zinc, or manganese, and more particularly manganese. Preferably, the doped pigment is in the form of an oily dispersion. The oil present in the oily dispersion is preferably selected from triglycerides, including those of capric / capric acid. The oily dispersion of titanium dioxide particles may also contain one or more dispersants, such as sorbitan esters, such as sorbitan isostearate, or polyoxyalkylene fatty acid esters of glycerol, such as TRI-PPG-3 myristyl ether citrate and polyglycerol-3 polyricinoleate. Preferably, the oily dispersion of titanium dioxide particles contains at least one dispersant selected from polyoxyalkylene fatty acid esters of glycerol. More specifically, an oily dispersion of manganese-doped TiO2 particles in decanoic acid / caprylic acid triglycerides can be mentioned in the presence of TRI-PPG-3 myristyl ether citrate, polyglycerol-3 polyricinoleate, and sorbitan isostearate, said oily dispersion having the following INCI name: titanium dioxide (and) TRI-PPG-3 myristyl ether citrate (and) polyglycerol-3 polyricinoleate (and) sorbitan isostearate, for example, by Croda under the trade name Optisol Products for sale.

[0191] The uncoated titanium oxide pigment is, for example, produced by Imperial Chemical Industries under the trade names Microtitanium Dioxide MT 500B or Microtitanium Dioxide MT 600. Produced by Degussa under the name P 25, and by Wacker under the name Transparent titanium oxide. Miyoshi Kasei Co., Ltd. under the name By Tomen Company (using the name) And those sold by titanium dioxide companies under the name Tioveil AQ.

[0192] Uncoated zinc oxide pigments are, for example:

[0193] - Those sold by Sunsmart under the name Z-Cote;

[0194] -By Elementis (the company) Those that were sold;

[0195] -Developed by Nanophase Technologies under the name Nanogard WCD Those that were sold.

[0196] The coated zinc oxide pigment is, for example:

[0197] -By Toshiba Corporation under the name Zinc Oxide Those sold (ZnO coated with polymethylhydrosiloxane);

[0198] -Developed by the top nanotechnology company Nanogard Zinc Oxide Those for sale (as in Finsolv) Benzoic acid C 12 -C 15 (40% dispersion in alkyl esters);

[0199] -By Daito Corporation (Daitoperation) and Daitoperation Those for sale (dispersions in cyclomethicone / oxyethylene-modified dimethylsiloxane, containing 30% or 50% zinc oxide coated with silica and polymethylhydrosiloxane);

[0200] -By Daikin Corporation under the name NFD Ultrafine Those sold (ZnO coated with a copolymer of perfluoroalkyl phosphate and perfluoroalkyl ethyl, which is a dispersion in cyclopentasiloxane);

[0201] -By Shin-Etsu Corporation (Shin-Etsu) Those for sale (ZnO coated with silicone-grafted acrylic polymers, dispersed in cyclodimethylsiloxane);

[0202] -By the ISP company under the name Escalol Those for sale (alumina-treated ZnO, dispersed in a mixture of ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate / PVP-hexadecene copolymer / polymethylsiloxane);

[0203] -By Fuji Pigment Co., Ltd. Those for sale (ZnO coated with silica and polymethylsilsesquioxane);

[0204] -By Haimingsi Company under the name Nanox Gel Those sold (dispersed at a concentration of 55% in benzoic acid C with hydroxystearic acid condensate) 12 -C 15 ZnO in alkyl esters.

[0205] Uncoated cerium oxide pigments can be, for example, produced by Rhône-Plunkie (S.A.). -Poulenc) named Colloidal Cerium Those that were sold.

[0206] Uncoated iron oxide pigments are, for example, produced by Arnaud under the name Nanogard WCD. (FE ), Nanogard Iron FE 45BL AQ, Nanogard FE 45R and Nanogard WCD (FE (or by Mitsubishi Corporation under the name) For sale.

[0207] The coated iron oxide pigment is, for example, produced by Arnold under the name Nanogard WCD 2008. Nanogard WCD (FE 45B Nanogard FE 45BL and Nanogard FE 45 Or by BASF under the name Transparent Iron For sale.

[0208] Mixtures of metal oxides can also be mentioned, especially mixtures of titanium dioxide and cerium dioxide, including equal weight mixtures of titanium dioxide and cerium dioxide coated with silicon dioxide (produced by Ikeda Corporation under the name Sunveil). (for sale), as well as mixtures of titanium dioxide and zinc dioxide coated with alumina, silica, and silicone, such as product M sold by Sargibin Pigments. Alternatively, a mixture of titanium dioxide and zinc dioxide coated with alumina, silica, and glycerin, such as product M sold by Sargibin Pigments.

[0209] According to the present invention, mineral masking agents, whether coated or uncoated, based on titanium oxide are particularly preferred.

[0210] According to one specific embodiment, the UV shielding agent is present in the composition according to the invention at an active material content ranging from 0.1% to 45% by weight, and particularly from 5% to 35% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0211] The composition according to the invention may contain at least one aqueous phase.

[0212] The aqueous phase contains water and optionally other water-soluble or water-miscible organic solvents.

[0213] The aqueous phase suitable for use in this invention may include, for example, water selected from natural springs, such as water from La Roche-Posay, water from Lucas, water from Vittel, or water from Vichy, or floral water.

[0214] The aqueous phase may contain at least one hydrophilic solvent, such as a lower monohydric alcohol having one to eight carbon atoms that is substantially straight-chain or branched, such as ethanol, propanol, butanol, isopropanol or isobutanol; polyols such as propylene glycol, isoprene glycol, butanediol, octyl ethylene glycol, glycerol, sorbitol, polyalkylene glycols such as polyethylene glycol, and mixtures thereof.

[0215] According to one specific embodiment of the invention, the weight concentration of the hydrophilic solvent ranges from 0.01% to 40% relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0216] Preferably, the weight concentration of the hydrophilic solvent ranges from 0.1% to 30% relative to the total weight of the composition, and more preferably from 5% to 20%.

[0217] Depending on the presentation of the composition, the amount of the aqueous phase can range from 0.1% to 99% by weight, preferably 0.5% to 98% by weight, more preferably 30% to 95% by weight, and even more preferably 40% to 95% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0218] Depending on the desired flowability of the composition, one or more additional gelling agents may be incorporated in addition to the polymer b) as previously described, which are in particular hydrophilic, that is, water-soluble or water-dispersible.

[0219] Examples of hydrophilic gelling agents that may be mentioned include modified or unmodified carboxyvinyl polymers, such as those sold by Goodrich under the names Carbopol (CTFA name: Carbomer) and Pemulen (CTFA name: Acrylate / C10-30 alkyl acrylate crosslinking polymer); polyacrylamide; optionally crosslinked and / or neutralized 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid polymers and copolymers, such as poly(2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid) sold by Hoechst under the name "Hostacerin AMPS" (CTFA name: Polyacrylamide dimethyl taurate); crosslinked anionic copolymers of acrylamide and AMPS in W / O emulsion form, such as Sepigel 305 (CTFA name: Polyacrylamide / C13-14 isoparaffin / laurate polyether-7) and Simulgel by SEPPIC. Those sold under CTFA name 600 (acrylamide / sodium acryloyl dimethyl taurate copolymer / isohexadecane / polysorbate 80); polysaccharide biopolymers such as xanthan gum, guar gum, alginate, and modified cellulose; and mixtures thereof. The amount of gelling agent depends on the desired purpose. According to one embodiment, the amount of gelling agent ranges from, for example, 0.001% to 10% by weight and, for example, 0.1% to 5% relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0220] When the composition used according to the invention comprises an oil phase, it preferably contains at least one oil, particularly a cosmetic oil. It may also contain other fatty substances.

[0221] As an oil that can be used in the compositions of the present invention, examples may be mentioned, such as:

[0222] - Animal-derived hydrocarbon-based oils, such as fully hydrogenated squalene;

[0223] - Hydrocarbon-based oils of plant origin, such as liquid fatty acid triglycerides containing 4 to 10 carbon atoms, such as heptanoic acid or caprylic acid triglycerides, or alternatively, such as sunflower oil, corn oil, soybean oil, marrow oil, grapeseed oil, sesame seed oil, hazelnut oil, almond oil, macadamia nut oil, aurora oil, castor oil, avocado oil, caprylic / capric acid triglycerides, such as those sold by Stéarineries Dubois or those sold by Dynamit Nobel under the names Miglyol 810, 812 and 818, jojoba oil and shea butter;

[0224] - Synthetic esters and ethers, especially synthetic esters and ethers of fatty acids, such as oils of the formula R1COOR2 and R1OR2, wherein R1 represents a fatty acid residue containing 8 to 29 carbon atoms and R2 represents a branched or unbranched hydrocarbon-based chain containing 3 to 30 carbon atoms, such as Purcellin oil, isononyl isononanoate, isopropyl myristate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, 2-octyl dodecyl stearate, 2-octyl dodecyl erucic acid, or isostearate; hydroxylated esters, such as isostearate lactate, octyl hydroxystearate, octyl dodecyl hydroxystearate, diisostearate malate, or triisoceryl citrate; fatty alcohol heptanoates, octanoates, or decanoates; polyol esters, such as propylene glycol dioctanoate, neopentyl glycol diheptanoate, and diethylene glycol diisononanoate; and pentaerythritol esters, such as pentaerythritol tetraisostearate;

[0225] - Straight-chain or branched hydrocarbons of mineral or synthetic origin, such as volatile or non-volatile liquid paraffins and their derivatives; hydrocarbon-based oils with branches containing 10 to 20 carbon atoms, such as isohexadecane, isododecane, isoalkanes and mixtures thereof; petrolatum; polydecene and hydrogenated polyisobutylene such as Parleam.

[0226] - Natural or synthetic essential oils, such as eucalyptus oil, hybrid lavender oil, lavender oil, vetiver oil, litsea cubeba oil, lemon oil, sandalwood oil, rosemary oil, chamomile oil, peppermint oil, nutmeg oil, cinnamon oil, hyssop oil, caraway oil, orange oil, geraniol oil, juniper oil, and bergamot oil.

[0227] - Fatty alcohols and fatty acids containing 8 to 26 carbon atoms, such as cetyl alcohol or acid, stearyl alcohol, stearic acid, a mixture of cetyl alcohol and stearyl alcohol (cetearyl alcohol), octyldodecyl alcohol, 2-butyloctyl alcohol, 2-hexyldecyl alcohol, 2-undecylpentadecyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol or linoleyl alcohol.

[0228] - Fluorinated oils that are partially based on hydrocarbons and / or silicones, such as those described in document JP-A-2-295912;

[0229] - Silicone oils, such as volatile or non-volatile polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS) having straight or cyclic silicone chains, which are liquid or paste at ambient temperature, especially cyclic polydimethylsiloxanes (cyclic polymethylsiloxanes) such as cyclohexylsiloxane; polydimethylsiloxanes containing alkyl, alkoxy, or phenyl groups at the side chains or ends of silicone chains, said groups having 2 to 24 carbon atoms; phenyl silicones, such as phenyl polytrimethylsiloxane, phenyl polydimethylsiloxane, phenyltrimethylsiloxydiphenylsiloxane, diphenyl polydimethylsiloxane, diphenylmethyldiphenyltrisiloxane, or 2-phenylethyltrimethylsiloxysilicate, and polymethylphenylsiloxane;

[0230] - Its mixture.

[0231] In the list of oils mentioned above, "hydrocarbon-based oil" is intended to mean any oil that primarily contains carbon and hydrogen atoms and optionally ester, ether, fluorine, carboxylic acid, and / or alcohol groups.

[0232] Other fatty substances that may be present in the oil phase include, for example, fatty acids containing 8 to 30 carbon atoms, such as stearic acid, lauric acid, palmitic acid, and oleic acid; waxes, such as lanolin wax, beeswax, carnauba wax or candelilla wax, paraffin wax, lignite wax or microcrystalline wax, pure ceresin or ceresin wax, and synthetic waxes, such as polyethylene wax and Fischer-Tropsch wax; silicone resins, such as trifluoromethyl-C1-C4-alkyl polydimethylsiloxane and trifluoropropyl polydimethylsiloxane; and silicone elastomers, such as products sold by Shin-Etsu Corporation under the name KSG, by Dow Corning under the names Trefil, BY29, or EPSX, or by Grant Industries under the name Gransil.

[0233] Those skilled in the art can select these fatty substances in various ways to prepare compositions having desired properties (e.g., in terms of consistency or texture).

[0234] According to one variation, the amount of oil phase can range from, for example, 0.01% to 60% by weight and, for example, 5% to 50% relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0235] According to one variation, the amount of oil phase can range from 10% to 40% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0236] According to specific embodiments, the compositions according to the present invention comprise an aqueous phase. In particular, the compositions according to the present invention can be aqueous solutions or water-alcohol solutions.

[0237] According to another embodiment, the composition according to the invention is in emulsion form. It may then further contain at least one emulsifier.

[0238] When the composition according to the invention is a water-in-oil (W / O) or oil-in-water (O / W) emulsion, the proportion of the oil phase in the emulsion can range from 5% to 80% by weight, and preferably from 5% to 50% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. The emulsion typically contains at least one emulsifier selected from amphoteric, anionic, cationic, and nonionic emulsifiers (used alone or as a mixture), and optionally a co-emulsifier. The emulsifier is selected in a suitable manner according to the desired emulsion (W / O or O / W emulsion). The emulsifier and co-emulsifier are typically present in the composition in a proportion that may range from, for example, 0.3% to 30% by weight, and preferably from 0.5% to 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0239] For W / O emulsions, examples of emulsifiers that may be mentioned include polydimethylsiloxane copolyols, such as a mixture of cyclic polymethylsiloxane and polydimethylsiloxane copolyols sold by Dow Corning under the name DC 5225C, and alkyl polydimethylsiloxane copolyols, such as lauryl polymethylsiloxane copolyols sold by Dow Corning under the name Dow Corning 5200 Formulation Aid and cetyl polydimethylsiloxane copolyols sold by Goldschmidt under the name Abil EM 90R, or a mixture of polyglycerol-4 isostearate / cetyl polydimethylsiloxane copolyols / hexyl laurate sold by Goldschmidt under the name Abil WE 09. One or more co-emulsifiers may also be added. The co-emulsifiers may advantageously be selected from the group comprising alkyl polyol esters. In particular, polyol alkyl esters may be mentioned including glycerol and / or sorbitan esters, such as polyglycerol isostearate, as sold by High Schmidt under the name IsolanGI 34; sorbitan isostearate, as sold by Imperial Chemical Industries (ICI) under the name Arlacel 987; sorbitan glycerol isostearate, as sold by Imperial Chemical Industries under the name Arlacel 986; and any mixtures thereof.

[0240] Crosslinked elastomeric solid organopolysiloxanes containing at least one alkylene oxide group can also be used as surfactants for W / O emulsions, such as those obtained according to the procedures of Examples 3, 4 and 8 of document US-A-5412004 and Examples of document US-A-5811487, especially the product of Example 3 (synthetic example) of patent US-A-5412004, and products such as those sold by Shin-Etsu Corporation under index number KSG 21.

[0241] Examples of emulsifiers that may be mentioned for O / W emulsions include nonionic surfactants, and in particular esters of polyols and fatty acids having saturated or unsaturated chains containing, for example, 8 to 24 carbon atoms and even more preferably 12 to 22 carbon atoms, and their oxy-olefinized derivatives, i.e., derivatives containing oxyethyleneized and / or oxypropyleneized units, such as C8-C 24 Fatty acid glycerides and their oxidized derivatives; C8-C 24 Polyethylene glycol esters of fatty acids and their oxidized derivatives; C8-C 24 Sorbitol esters of fatty acids and their oxidized derivatives; C8-C 24 Fatty acid sugar (sucrose, glucose, or alkyl glucose) esters and their oxidized derivatives; fatty alcohol ethers; C8-C 24 Any of the sugar ethers of fatty alcohols and mixtures thereof.

[0242] In particular, fatty acid glycerides include glyceryl stearate (glyceryl monostearate, glyceryl distearate and / or glyceryl tristearate) (CTFA name: glyceryl stearate) or glyceryl ricinoleate, and mixtures thereof.

[0243] In particular, the polyethylene glycol esters of fatty acids include polyethylene stearate (polyethylene glycol monostearate, polyethylene glycol distearate, and / or polyethylene glycol tristearate) and more especially polyethylene glycol 50OE monostearate (CTFA name: PEG-50 stearate) or polyethylene glycol 100OE monostearate (CTFA name: PEG-100 stearate), and mixtures thereof.

[0244] Mixtures of these surfactants may also be used, such as the product sold by Lierkema under the name Arlacel 165 containing glyceryl stearate and PEG-100 stearate, and the product sold by Goschmidt under the name Tegin containing glyceryl stearate (mono-distearate) and potassium stearate (CTFA name: glyceryl stearate SE). Fatty acid esters of glucose or alkyl glucose that may be mentioned particularly include glucose palmitate, alkyl glucose sesquistearates, such as methyl glucose sesquistearate, alkyl glucose palmitate, such as methyl glucose palmitate or ethyl glucose palmitate, fatty esters of methyl glucoside, and more particularly diesters of methyl glucoside and oleic acid (CTFA name: methyl glucodioleate); mixed esters of methyl glucoside and oleic acid / hydroxystearic acid mixtures (CTFA name: methyl glucodioleate / hydroxystearic acid); esters of methyl glucoside and isostearic acid (CTFA name: methyl glucoisostearate); esters of methyl glucoside and lauric acid (CTFA name: methyl glucolaurate); mixtures of monoesters and diesters of methyl glucoside and isostearic acid (CTFA name: methyl glucodioleate); mixtures of monoesters and diesters of methyl glucoside and stearic acid (CTFA name: methyl glucodioleate); and especially those produced by Amerchol under the name Glucate. SS sells products, as well as mixtures thereof.

[0245] Examples of oxyethylene ethers of fatty acids and glucose or alkyl glucose that may be mentioned include oxyethylene ethers of fatty acids and methyl glucose, and in particular polyethylene glycol ethers containing about 20 mol of methyl glucose and stearic acid diesters (CTFA name: PEG-20 methyl glucose distearate), such as the product sold by Emego under the name GlucamE-20 distearate; polyethylene glycol ethers containing a mixture of about 20 mol of methyl glucose and stearic acid monoesters and diesters (CTFA name: PEG-20 methyl glucose sesquistearate), and in particular the product sold by Emego under the name Glucamate SSE-20, and the product sold by High Schmidt under the name Grillocose PSE-20, and mixtures thereof.

[0246] Examples of sucrose esters that may be mentioned include sucrose palmitoyl stearate, sucrose stearate, and sucrose monolaurate. Examples of fatty alcohol ethers that may be mentioned include polyethylene glycol ethers of fatty alcohols containing 8 to 30 carbon atoms, and particularly 10 to 22 carbon atoms, such as cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, or cetearyl alcohol (a mixture of cetyl alcohol and stearyl alcohol). For example, ethers comprising 1 to 200, and preferably 2 to 100 oxyethylene groups may be mentioned, such as those with the CTFA names cetearyl alcohol polyether-20 or cetearyl alcohol polyether-30, and mixtures thereof.

[0247] Of particular interest are alkyl polyglucosides, such as decyl glucoside, for example, the product sold by Kao Chemicals under the name Mydol 10, by Henkel under the name Plantaren 2000, and by Seppic under the name Oramix NS 10; octyl / decyl glucoside, for example, the product sold by Seppic under the name Oramix CG 110 or by BASF under the name Lutensol GD 70; lauryl glucoside, for example, the product sold by Henkel under the names Plantaren 1200N and Plantarcare 1200; cocoyl glucoside, for example, the product sold by Henkel under the name Plantarcare 818 / UP; and cetearyl glucoside, optionally as a mixture with cetearyl alcohol, for example, the product sold by Seppic under the name Montanov. 68. Sold by Goschmidt under the name Tego-Care CG90 and by Henkel under the name Emulgade KE3302, as well as arachidonic glucoside, for example in the form of a mixture of arachidonic alcohol and betaine alcohol and arachidonic glucoside, sold by Sepik under the name Montanov 202, and any mixture thereof.

[0248] According to one specific embodiment, the concentration of the emulsifier in the composition according to the invention ranges from 0.001% to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.5% to 10% relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0249] According to one specific embodiment, the composition according to the invention is in the form of an emulsion or a gel. When the composition is in the form of an emulsion, it can be a direct (oil-in-water) emulsion or a reverse (water-in-oil) emulsion. Preferably, the composition according to the invention is in the form of a direct (oil-in-water) emulsion.

[0250] The compositions according to the present invention may also contain at least one flavoring.

[0251] When the composition contains a fragrance, the amount may range from 0.001% to 10% by weight, and preferably from 0.01% to 5%, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0252] The compositions according to the present invention may also contain at least one preservative.

[0253] Advantageously, the preservatives are selected from those commonly used in cosmetics. They may be specifically selected from the positive list contained in Annex V of Regulation (EC) No. 1223 / 2009, which specifies a list of approved preservatives for use in cosmetics.

[0254] When the composition contains one or more preservatives, they are present at a weight concentration of 0.001% to 10%, preferably 0.1% to 2%, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0255] Needless to say, those skilled in the art will carefully select optional adjuvants to be added to the compositions according to the invention so that the advantageous properties inherent to the compositions according to the invention are not, or substantially not, adversely affected by the contemplated additives.

[0256] The following examples will make the invention clearer, but are not limiting in nature. Unless otherwise stated, the quantities shown are weight percentages of the starting materials. The names of compounds are given as INCI names.

[0257] Example

[0258] Example of preparing polymer 1:

[0259] Molecular weight was determined by gel permeation chromatography (GPC):

[0260] Samples were prepared by using a polymer solution in tetrahydrofuran at a concentration of 10 mg / ml. The samples were then placed in an oven at 54°C for 10 minutes and then in a shaking incubator for 60 minutes to aid dissolution. After visual inspection, the samples were considered completely dissolved in the solvent.

[0261] The prepared samples were analyzed using two Polypore 300 × 7.5 mm columns (manufactured by Agilent Technologies), a Waters 2695 chromatography system, tetrahydrofuran mobile phase, and refractive index detection. Samples were filtered through a 0.45 μm nylon filter before being injected into the liquid chromatograph. The standard used for calibration was Agilent Technologies' Easi Vial narrow-band polystyrene (PS) standard.

[0262] Calibration was performed using polystyrene standards ranging from 2,520,000 to 162 Daltons.

[0263] The system is equipped with a PSS SECcurity 1260RI detector. The average molecular weight was determined using a polystyrene calibration curve. Graphs and determination of various molecular weights were performed using the Win GPC Unichrom 81 program.

[0264] Determining the melting point using differential scanning calorimetry (or DSC):

[0265] This method describes a general procedure for determining the melting point of a polymer by differential scanning calorimetry (DSC). This method is based on standards ASTM E791 and ASTM D 34182, and DSC calibration is performed according to standard ASTM E 9672.

[0266] Betaine acrylate / 2-hydroxyethyl acrylate copolymer (polymer 1):

[0267] In a 4-necked flask equipped with a side-blade mixer, an internal thermometer, two funnels, a reflux condenser, and extensions for two additional necks, after removing oxygen from the system by purging with nitrogen for 20 minutes, 175 g of benzyl acrylate, 25 g of 2-hydroxyethyl acrylate, and 0.4 g of 2,2'-azobis(2-methylbutyronitrile) (AkzoNobel) were added to 40 g of isopropanol under stirring at 80 °C for 60 minutes. The mixture was stirred at 80 °C for 3 hours. The solvent was then removed by vacuum distillation, followed by the addition of 1 g of dilauryl peroxide, and the reaction was continued at 110 °C for 60 minutes. The above steps were repeated. The mixture was then cooled to 90 °C, a stream of demineralized water was added, and the mixture was stirred. Water was removed by vacuum distillation.

[0268] Molecular weight: Mn = 7300 g / mol, Mw = 21000, Mw / Mn = 2.8

[0269] Melting point: 65℃

[0270] In the following examples, for each composition, viscosity was measured, stability over time at 45°C for two months was observed, and sensory aspects were then evaluated during and after application of the composition to the skin. For each composition containing a UV shielding agent, in vitro SPF values ​​were also measured.

[0271] Viscosity measurement

[0272] Viscosity measurements are typically performed at 25°C using a Rheomat equipped with a No. 3 rotor. Viscometer at 200s -1The measurements were performed at a shear rate of 10 min, after which the viscosity and rotor rotation speed were stabilized (after which stability was observed).

[0273] Scheme for evaluating viscosity

[0274] The viscosity was evaluated by a panel of 10 sensory experts. Each composition was tested at 2 mg / cm². 2 Apply the appropriate dose to the forearm. Apply the product using circular motions until it has penetrated (approximately 30 seconds). After drying for 2 minutes, assess tackiness by placing the back of your hand on the treated area, using a scale ranging from 1 to 15, where 1 is considered a very tacky reference value and 15 is considered a non-tacky reference value.

[0275] Yellowing measurement:

[0276] After film preparation, the color of the formulation was evaluated on a comparison card. The formulation was deposited in a circle with a diameter of 2.2 cm and spread evenly to obtain a reproducible deposition thickness. Colorimetric measurements were then performed at two points on the film using a Minolta CM2600D spectrophotometer. This procedure was repeated twice, yielding four experimental values ​​for each composition.

[0277] The results are represented in the (L*, a*, b*) system, where L* represents lightness, a* represents the red-green axis (-a* = green, +a* = red), and b* represents the yellow-blue axis (-b* = blue, +b* = yellow). Therefore, a* and b* represent the hue of the compound. The chromaticity (C*) value is calculated in the CIE L*a*b* system according to the formula C* = ((a*)^2 + (b*)^2)^0.5.

[0278] The higher the value of chromaticity C*, the more pronounced the color intensity of the product.

[0279] In vitro SPF

[0280] Sun protection factor (SPF) was determined according to the “in vitro” method described by BLDiffey in J. Soc. Cosmet. Chem., 40, 127-133, (1989). Measurements were taken using a UV-2000S spectrophotometer from Labsphere. Each composition was measured as a homogeneous and flat deposit at 1.3 mg / cm². 2 The proportion is applied to the rough plate of PMMA.

[0281] Examples 1 to 3: Compositions in O / W emulsion form

[0282] Prepare the following composition.

[0283]

[0284] Preparation of the composition

[0285] First, carefully weigh the starting material using a balance (accuracy = 0.01g).

[0286] The components of phase A1 were heated to 70°C using a hot plate and mixed using a Rayneri mixer.

[0287] Then, using a Rayneri mixer, phase A2 is introduced into phase A1 at 70°C with stirring until a homogeneous, clear mixture is obtained.

[0288] Phase B was heated to 70°C and then introduced into phases A1+A2. Emulsification was performed at 70°C using a Moritz-type rotor-stator. After emulsification for 10 minutes, the formulation was allowed to return to ambient temperature.

[0289] Phase C was introduced into the obtained emulsion under Rayneri stirring at ambient temperature.

[0290] Phase D is introduced into the formulation.

[0291] At the end of preparation, the pH is adjusted to pH = 5.5 ± 0.3 using 5% citric acid from the water that constitutes phase E.

[0292] The following results were obtained:

[0293]

[0294] As demonstrated by the results of compositions 2 and 3 (comparative compositions), formulations containing baicalin and lipophilic polymers other than those of this invention exhibit very strong yellow coloring and result in a highly glossy and oily appearance.

[0295] Conversely, composition 1 (the present invention) having the polymer according to the invention has less yellowing and provides a matte and non-greasy appearance.

[0296] Examples 4 and 5:

[0297] Prepare the following compositions according to the present invention.

[0298]

[0299] Preparation of the composition

[0300] First, carefully weigh the starting material using a balance (accuracy = 0.01g).

[0301] The components of phase A1 were heated to 70°C using a hot plate and mixed using a Rayneri mixer.

[0302] Then, using a Rayneri mixer, the polymer of phase A2 is introduced into phase A1 at 70°C with stirring until a homogeneous, clear mixture is obtained.

[0303] Then, phase A3 is introduced into phase A1+A2 at 70℃.

[0304] Phase B was heated to 70°C and then introduced into phases A1+A2+A3. Emulsification was performed at 70°C using a Moritz-type rotor-stator. After emulsification for 10 minutes, the formulation was allowed to return to ambient temperature.

[0305] Phase C was introduced into the emulsion A1+A2+A3+B under Rayneri stirring at ambient temperature.

[0306] Phase D is introduced into the formulation.

[0307] At the end of preparation, the pH is adjusted to pH = 5.5 ± 0.3 using 5% citric acid from the water that constitutes phase E.

[0308] The following results were obtained:

[0309]

[0310] The compositions are stable and have a pale yellow color. When applied to the skin, they provide a matte and non-greasy appearance.

[0311] Examples 7-9: Compositions in O / W emulsion form

[0312] Prepare the following compositions according to the present invention.

[0313]

[0314] Preparation of the composition

[0315] First, carefully weigh the starting material using a balance (accuracy = 0.01g).

[0316] The components of phase A1 were heated to 70°C using a hot plate and mixed using a Rayneri mixer.

[0317] Then, using a Rayneri mixer, the polymer of phase A2 is introduced into phase A1 at 70°C with stirring until a homogeneous, clear mixture is obtained.

[0318] Then, phase A3 is introduced into phase A1+A2 at 70℃.

[0319] Phase B was heated to 70°C and then introduced into phases A1+A2+A3. Emulsification was performed at 70°C using a Moritz-type rotor-stator. After emulsification for 10 minutes, the formulation was allowed to return to ambient temperature.

[0320] Phase C was introduced into the emulsion A1+A2+A3+B under Rayneri stirring at ambient temperature.

[0321] Phase D is introduced into the formulation.

[0322] At the end of preparation, the pH is adjusted to pH = 5.5 ± 0.3 using 5% citric acid from the water that constitutes phase E.

[0323] The compositions are stable and have a pale yellow color. When applied to the skin, they provide a matte and non-greasy appearance.

Claims

1. A composition comprising: -a) Baicalin and / or at least one derivative thereof, or a plant extract containing baicalin and / or at least one derivative thereof, wherein the baicalin and its derivatives are selected from compounds of formula (I) and their salts: in: X1, X2, X3, X4, X5, X a X b X c X d X e and X f Each can be represented independently as O or S; Y1, Y2, Y3, Y4 and Y6 are each independently selected from methyl, ethyl, n-propyl, n-butyl, n-pentyl, n-hexyl, isopropyl, sec-butyl, isobutyl, tert-butyl, isopentyl, 2-methylbutyl, 3-methylbutyl, 2,2-dimethylbutyl, 2,3-dimethylbutyl, 2-methylpentyl, 3-methylpentyl and 4-methylpentyl; R1, R2, R3, R4, R5, R a R b R c and R f Each represents H independently; and n is 0; as well as -b) One or more polymers composed of monomer units of formulas (A) and (B): in: -R1 are selected independently from C 16 -C 22 alkyl, -and - At least 80% of the R1 groups by weight are benzyl groups, and the weight percentage is relative to the sum of all the R1 groups present in the polymer. -and - The weight ratio of the sum of all hydroxyethyl acrylate units to the sum of all acrylate units bearing the R1 group ranges from 1:10 to 1:4; - The polymer has a number-average molecular weight Mn in the range of 5000 g / mol to 9000 g / mol. The concentration of the active material, wherein baicalin and / or its derivatives, ranges from 0.1% to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, and the concentration of the active material, wherein polymer b), is from 0.5% to 8% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

2. The composition according to claim 1, wherein it is a composition for topical application.

3. The composition according to claim 1, comprising baicalin corresponding to the following general formula (II):

4. The composition according to claim 1, wherein, In the polymer b), at least 90% by weight of the R1 group is benzyl.

5. The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 4, wherein, In polymer b), all of the R1 groups are benzyl groups.

6. The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 4, wherein, The polymer b) has a melting point in the range of 60°C to 69°C.

7. The composition according to claim 6, wherein, The polymer b) has a melting point in the range of 63°C to 67°C.

8. The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 4 and 7, wherein, The concentration of the active material in polymer b) is 1% to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

9. The composition according to claim 8, wherein, The concentration of the active material in polymer b) is 1.5% to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

10. The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 4, 7 and 9, further comprising at least one UV shielding agent.

11. The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 4, 7 and 9, wherein it is in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion or an oil-in-water emulsion or a gel.

12. The composition according to claim 11, wherein it is in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion.

13. The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 4, 7, 9 and 12, wherein, The pH is 5.1 to 5.

9.

14. The composition according to claim 13, wherein, The pH is 5.1 to 5.

6.

15. A non-therapeutic cosmetic method for treating keratin materials, wherein the composition as defined in any one of claims 1 to 14 is applied to the keratin material.

16. Use of the composition as defined in any one of claims 1 to 14 in the field of non-therapeutic cosmetics.

17. The use according to claim 16, wherein the use is for the care, protection and / or cosmetic application of body or facial skin, or hair care.

18. The composition as defined in any one of claims 1 to 14 for non-therapeutic use in reducing UV-induced hyperpigmentation.

19. The use of one or more polymers as described in any one of claims 1 to 9 (b) for reducing yellowing of the composition as defined in any one of claims 1 to 14.

Citation Information

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