Process for treating keratin fibres with at least one oil bearing acetoacetate function

Abstract

The invention relates to a method for treating keratin fibres, in particular for caring for, styling and / or coloring keratin fibres, preferably the hair, comprising applying to the keratin fibres in one or more successive steps at least i) one or more compounds of formula (I), and also to its optical or geometric isomers and / or its solvates, such as hydrates, or to compositions comprising same (in formula (I), Z, AK1, AK2, Y, R4, Ra, Rb, p, m, n, t, q and u are as defined in the description) and optionally ii) at least one crosslinking agent.

Description

Technical Field

[0001] The present invention relates more particularly to the cosmetic field of keratin fibres and in particular to the cosmetic field of caring for, styling and / or dyeing keratin fibres and preferably the hair.

[0002] The object is therefore in particular to propose a novel treatment method, in particular a cosmetic treatment method, comprising applying to keratin fibers an oil functionalized with acetoacetate groups and optionally at least one crosslinking agent, which is particularly advantageous in terms of their technical properties, in particular the durability of the deposits that can be obtained, and in terms of the sensory experience they give to the user. Existing technology

[0003] Cosmetics generally require the use of one or more film-forming polymers in order to obtain good deposition of these products on keratin materials, in particular on keratin fibres, and in particular to meet the expectations detailed below.

[0004] Therefore, in the field of hair care, it is particularly desirable that the deposit formed should have good durability in contact with water (especially rainwater or during showering or even perspiration) and in contact with sebum. In addition, the deposit must be aesthetically pleasing, transparent (if not colored), or even shiny. It must also allow the head of hair to move without changing its appearance, i.e. without cracking and / or flaking. A deposit is also sought that can withstand several shampooing cycles.

[0005] For this purpose, dispersions of nanosized polymer particles are used in hair application products and more particularly in their organic and especially oily phases as film formers.

[0006] However, prior art compositions have unsatisfactory durability over time, in particular style retention.

[0007] Furthermore, in the field of hair care, a new range of products known as “Hair Makeup” has recently been developed. These products guarantee a temporary hair coloring that lasts after 1 to 3 shampooing cycles.

[0008] They are therefore a particularly attractive alternative to permanent hair coloring for consumers, providing, of course, that the coloring effect effectively lasts after contact with water and washing with minimal shampooing.

[0009] The use of effective film formers also significantly satisfies this requirement.

[0010] Thus, FR 2 741 530 proposes, for this purpose, the temporary dyeing of keratin fibers using a dispersion of film-forming polymer particles comprising at least one acidic functional group and at least one pigment dispersed in the continuous phase of said dispersion. However, the coloring obtained by this dyeing process has the disadvantage of being easily removed by shampooing.

[0011] Furthermore, the use of a composition comprising a polysiloxane / polyurea block copolymer and a pigment for coloring the hair is proposed in FR 2 907 678. However, the coating obtained with this composition is not always very uniform and the individualization of the hair strands is not always very good.

[0012] Compositions are known, in particular cosmetic, film-forming compositions, comprising at least one fatty phase and at least one copolymer obtained by polymerization of olefinic monomers, some of which have specific groups (see, for example, WO 2022 / 136104). However, such compositions require the presence of a fatty phase, which can reduce certain areas of application. Furthermore, these compositions do not necessarily meet the desire for naturalness expressed by some consumers.

[0013] Patent EP 1392222 also discloses the use of cosmetic compositions for the care and / or treatment of keratin materials, comprising a supramolecular polymer comprising a polymer backbone and at least two groups capable of forming at least three hydrogen bonds, and patent EP 1435900 discloses the use of hair compositions comprising a supramolecular polymer comprising a polymer backbone and at least two groups capable of forming at least three hydrogen bonds, and a surfactant or hair conditioning agent. However, with these two alternative compositions, the properties achieved with respect to style retention over time or water permanence remain insufficient.

[0014] Methods for preparing compositions containing modified polysaccharides are also known from WO 2020 / 026143. Furthermore, US 2006 / 0079599 describes polymer-based tissue adhesives for medical applications, comprising polyvinyl alcohol polymers bearing ACAC groups in combination with polyamines in the form of hydrogels. US 3342806 and US 3361585 describe acetoacetylated starch compounds.

[0015] Furthermore, WO 06 / 042169 describes tissue adhesives for medical and veterinary applications which are formed by reacting polyhydroxy compounds derivatized with acetoacetate groups and / or polyamine compounds derivatized with acetoacetamide groups with amino-functional crosslinking compounds.

[0016] The synthesis of acetoacetate diester triglycerides is also described in WO 2016 / 164870.

[0017] Normally, the above-mentioned treatment methods do not make it possible to obtain a deposit on keratin fibers that meets all the above-mentioned requirements, namely very good water permanence, in particular to shampoo washing of the hair, and / or to fatty substances, which allows the head of hair to move without cracking and / or flaking, which makes it possible to adjust the shine or invisibility qualities and, in the case of hair care use, provides very satisfactory styling hold or color permanence.

[0018] Furthermore, there is considerable consumer demand for compositions with reduced environmental impact.

[0019] Disclosure of the Invention

[0020] There is therefore still a need for treatments, in particular cosmetic treatments, intended for application to keratin fibres which make it possible to obtain a non-sticky deposit which transfers very little, if at all, and which is shiny and long-lasting.

[0021] There is also a need for a treatment method, in particular a cosmetic treatment method, which allows obtaining a deposit that is resistant to water and fatty substances, in particular sebum.

[0022] There is also a need for a treatment, particularly a cosmetic treatment, that provides a treatment with a deposit having radiance and / or invisible properties.

[0023] There is also a need for coloring treatments, in particular coloring cosmetic treatments, which are intended for application to the hair and which provide a deposit with good resistance to water and shampooing in order to ensure a color permanence over time comparable to direct dyeing.

[0024] There is also a need for a treatment, particularly a cosmetic, particularly a non-coloring treatment, which is intended to be applied to the hair and provides water-resistant styling properties, particularly curl retention.

[0025] The present invention is specifically directed to meeting all or some of these needs. Summary of the Invention

[0026] These problems are solved by carrying out a method, in particular a cosmetic method, for treating keratin fibres, in particular for caring for, styling and / or colouring keratin fibres, preferably the hair, which comprises applying to said keratin fibres in one or more consecutive steps at least:

[0027] i) one or more compounds of formula (I), and also optical or geometric isomers thereof and / or solvates thereof, such as hydrates, or compositions containing the same:

[0028]

[0029] In formula (I):

[0030] -Z represents a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, conjugated or non-conjugated, acyclic or cyclic, aromatic or non-aromatic polyvalent C2 to C 40 , especially C3 to C 36 , hydrocarbon-based groups, Z may be replaced by one or more selected from -O-, -N(R a )-, -S-, -C(O)-, (hetero)cyclic ring, and combinations thereof;

[0031] -AK1 represents a divalent saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched C1-C 12 , preferably C1-C6, more preferably saturated C1-C6, hydrocarbon-based chains;

[0032] -AK2 represents a straight chain or branched chain, saturated or unsaturated, C1-C 40 A monovalent hydrocarbon-based chain, which is optionally substituted by one or more identical or different groups selected from -OR, -X-AK3-(OC(O)-C(R a )(R b )-C(O)-R4) v and / or the chain is optionally interrupted by one or more heteroatoms or groups selected from -O-, -S-, -C(O)-, (one or more) (hetero)cycles and combinations thereof, in particular -OC(O)-, -C(O)-O- and / or -(hetero)cycle-O-(hetero)cycle-;

[0033] -AK3 represents a divalent straight or branched, saturated or unsaturated C1-C 12 , preferably C1-C6, more preferably saturated C1-C6, even more preferably C1-C4, hydrocarbon-based chains;

[0034] -R represents a hydrogen atom, a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C1-C6, preferably C1-C4, alkyl group, in particular a methyl group, or a group -C(O)-C(R a )(R b )-C(O)-R4;

[0035] -X represents -O-, -S-, -OC(O)- or -C(O)-O-;

[0036] -Y represents -OC(O)- or -C(O)-O-;

[0037] - R4 represents a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C1-C6 monovalent hydrocarbon-based group, preferably a (C1-C4)alkyl group, in particular a methyl or tert-butyl group, more preferably a methyl group;

[0038] -R a and R b may be the same or different and represent a hydrogen atom or a (C1-C4)alkyl group, preferably a hydrogen atom;

[0039] -p represents an integer equal to 0 or 1;

[0040] -m represents an integer equal to 0, 1, 2, 3 or 4; it is understood that when m is greater than 1, the groups -Y-AK2 are identical or different;

[0041] -n represents an integer equal to 0, 1, 2, 3 or 4; it is understood that when n is greater than 1, the group -(O) t -(AK1) q -(OC(O)-C(R a )(R b )-C(O)-R4) u Same or different;

[0042] -t represents an integer equal to 0 or 1;

[0043] -q represents an integer equal to 0 or 1;

[0044] -u represents an integer equal to 1, 2, or 3;

[0045] -v represents an integer equal to 1, 2, or 3;

[0046] It is understood that if q is equal to 0, then t is equal to 0, (m+n) is greater than or equal to 1, and the compound of formula (I) contains at least two groups -C(O)-C(R a )(R b )-C(O)-R4; and

[0047] ii) optionally at least one cross-linking agent.

[0048] According to a preferred embodiment, the treatment method according to the invention also comprises applying to said keratin fibers at least iii) a cosmetic active agent.

[0049] According to a preferred embodiment, the method according to the invention comprises applying to the keratin fibers i) at least one compound of formula (I) as defined above, its optical or geometric isomers and / or its solvates, such as hydrates, or a composition containing the same, and optionally ii) at least one crosslinking agent, and / or iii) at least one cosmetic active agent.

[0050] When the cosmetic active agent(s) iii) are present, the cosmetic active agent(s) iii) can be applied simultaneously with i) and / or ii), or even the cosmetic active agent(s) iii) can be applied before i) and / or before ii), when ii) is present.

[0051] The keratin fibres may be damp or wet before applying i) and possibly ii).For example, steps i) and optionally ii) may be carried out on damp keratin fibres, such as fibres that have just been wrung out after washing with a shampoo.

[0052] According to one embodiment, the method comprises applying i), optionally ii) and optionally iii) to the damp or wet keratin fibers.

[0053] According to another embodiment, the method comprises applying i), optionally ii) and optionally iii) to dry keratin fibers.

[0054] The inventors have thus surprisingly discovered that applying component i) and optionally ii) and iii) to keratin fibers makes it possible to obtain a deposit on the keratin fibers that is well resistant to external aggressive agents (such as water, oils, in particular food oils, sweat, and / or sebum) and, therefore, imparts a very good retention capacity over time. Advantageously, the deposit obtained by the method according to the invention is not sticky and does not transfer. Applying component i) and, if applicable, ii) and / or iii) to keratin fibers also provides a deposit on the keratin fibers that exhibits good resistance to shampooing and water.

[0055] The application of components i) and possibly ii) and / or iii) to keratin fibers also provides a lustrous deposit.

[0056] definition

[0057] For purposes of this invention, throughout this specification, including the claims, and unless otherwise indicated:

[0058] For the purposes of the present invention, the term "keratin fibers" is intended to mean keratin fibers, preferably human keratin fibers, more preferably hair.

[0059] The term "cosmetic active agent" means an organic or organosilicon compound or an inorganic compound that can be incorporated into a cosmetic composition in order to produce an effect on keratin materials, whether this effect is immediate or provided through repeated applications. As examples of cosmetic active agents, mention may be made of colored or colorless, fluorescent or non-fluorescent compounds, such as optical brighteners, or UVA and / or UVB screening agents, active agents intended to provide benefits to keratin fibers, antioxidant active agents, moisturizing active agents, sebum regulating active agents, active agents intended to combat the effects of pollution, antimicrobial or bactericidal active agents, fragrances and colorants (such as direct dyes or pigments), preferably pigments.

[0060] Preferably, the cosmetic active agent is chosen from a) coloring agents chosen from pigments, direct dyes and mixtures thereof, b) active agents for caring for keratin fibers, c) UV screening agents, and d) mixtures thereof.

[0061] For the purposes of the present invention, the term "fatty substance" is intended to mean an organic compound which is insoluble in water (solubility less than 5%, preferably less than 1% and even more preferably less than 0.1%) at normal temperature (25° C.) and at atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg); furthermore, the fatty substance is soluble in an organic solvent, for example in a halogenated solvent such as chloroform or dichloromethane, in a lower alcohol such as ethanol or in an aromatic solvent such as benzene or toluene, under the same conditions of temperature and pressure.

[0062] - The term "(hetero)aryl" means an aryl or heteroaryl group.

[0063] - The term "(hetero)cycloalkyl" means a cycloalkyl group or a heterocycloalkyl group.

[0064] - An "aryl" or "heteroaryl" group or the aryl or heteroaryl part of a group may be substituted by at least one substituent carried by a carbon atom, which is chosen from:

[0065] C1-C6, and preferably C1-C4 (poly)(hydroxy)alkyl;

[0066] halogen atoms, such as chlorine, fluorine, or bromine;

[0067] hydroxyl group;

[0068] C1-C2 alkoxy; C2-C4 (poly)hydroxyalkoxy;

[0069] amino;

[0070] amino substituted by one or two identical or different C1-C6, C1-C6, and preferably C1-C4 alkyl groups;

[0071] Acylamino (N(R)-C(O)-R'), wherein the group R is a hydrogen atom;

[0072] C1-C4 alkyl and the group R' is a C1-C4 alkyl; carbamoyl ((R)2N-C(O)-), wherein the groups R may be identical or different and represent a hydrogen atom or a C1-C4 alkyl;

[0073] Alkylsulfonylamino ((R'-S(O)2-N(R)-), wherein the group R represents a hydrogen atom or a C1-C4 alkyl group, and the group R' represents a C1-C4 alkyl group or a phenyl group;

[0074] Aminosulfonyl ((R)2N-S(O)2-), wherein the groups R, which may be the same or different, represent a hydrogen atom or a C1-C4 alkyl group;

[0075] a carboxyl group in the form of an acid or a salt (preferably with an alkali metal or substituted / unsubstituted ammonium);

[0076] cyano (CN);

[0077] Polyhalogenated (C1-C4) alkyl, preferably trifluoromethyl (CF3).

[0078] - The cyclic or heterocyclic part of the non-aromatic group may be substituted by at least one substituent carried by a carbon atom, said substituent being chosen from the following groups:

[0079] hydroxyl groups,

[0080] C1-C4 alkoxy, C2-C4 (poly)hydroxyalkoxy;

[0081] Alkylcarbonylamino ((RC(O)-NR'-), wherein the group R' is a hydrogen atom or a C1-C4 alkyl group, and the group R is a C1-C2 alkyl group, an amino group substituted by one or two identical or different C1-C4 alkyl groups;

[0082] Alkylcarbonyloxy ((RC(O)-O-), where the group R is C1-C4 alkyl, amino substituted by one or two identical or different C1-C4 alkyl groups;

[0083] Alkoxycarbonyl ((ROC(O)-), where the group R is C1-C4 alkyl, amino substituted by one or two identical or different C1-C4 alkyl groups;

[0084] The -cyclic or heterocyclic group, or the non-aromatic portion of the aryl or heteroaryl group, may also be substituted with one or more oxo groups.

[0085] A hydrocarbon-based chain is unsaturated when it comprises one or more double bonds and / or one or more triple bonds.

[0086] - "Aryl" group means a monocyclic or fused or non-fused polycyclic hydrocarbon-based group containing 6 to 14 carbon atoms and wherein at least one ring is aromatic; preferably, the aryl group is phenyl, biphenyl, naphthyl, indenyl, anthracenyl or tetrahydronaphthyl.

[0087] - A "heteroaryl" group means a monocyclic or fused or non-fused polycyclic, 5- to 14-membered group containing 1 to 6 heteroatoms selected from nitrogen, oxygen, sulfur and selenium atoms, and at least one of whose rings is aromatic; preferably, the heteroaryl group is selected from acridinyl, benzimidazolyl, benzobistriazolyl, benzopyrazolyl, benzopyridazinyl, benzoquinolinyl, benzothiazolyl, benzotriazolyl, benzoxazolyl, pyridyl, tetrazolyl, dihydrothiazolyl, imidazopyridyl, imidazolyl, indolyl, isoquinol ... quinolinyl, tetrazolyl, thiadiazolyl, thiazolyl, thiazolyl, thiazolopyridinyl, thiazolylidin ...

[0088] - A "cyclic" or "cycloalkyl" group is a monocyclic or fused or non-fused polycyclic, non-aromatic, cyclic hydrocarbon-based group containing from 5 to 14 carbon atoms, which may include one or more degrees of unsaturation; preferably, the cycloalkyl group is cyclohexyl.

[0089] - A "heterocycle" or "heterocycloalkyl" group is a monocyclic or fused or non-fused polycyclic 3- to 9-membered non-aromatic cyclic group comprising 1 to 4 heteroatoms selected from nitrogen, oxygen, sulfur and selenium atoms; preferably, the heterocycloalkyl group is selected from epoxide, piperazinyl, piperidinyl, morpholinyl and dithiolane.

[0090] - "Alkyl" groups are straight-chain or branched, in particular C1-C6, and preferably C1-C4 saturated hydrocarbon-based groups.

[0091] - An "alkoxy" group is an alkyl-oxy group wherein the alkyl group is a linear or branched C1-C6, and preferably C1-C4, hydrocarbon-based group.

[0092] - A "(poly)(hydroxy)alkyl" group denotes a C1-C6 and preferably a C1-C4 alkyl group optionally substituted by one or more hydroxy groups, preferably by 1 to 4 hydroxy groups, more particularly by 1 to 3 hydroxy groups.

[0093] A "sugar" group is a monosaccharide or disaccharide group. Sugar groups that may be mentioned include: sucrose, glucose, galactose, ribose, fucose, maltose, fructose, mannose, arabinose, xylose, lactose.

[0094] - The term "monosaccharide" means a sugar of formula C x (H2O) x Monoglycosidic sugars containing at least 5 carbon atoms, wherein x is an integer greater than or equal to 5, preferably x is greater than or equal to 6, in particular x is between 5 and 7 (including the end values), preferably x is equal to 6; and also salts thereof and solvates thereof, such as hydrates; they may be in D or L configuration and are α or β anomers.

[0095] - The term "disaccharide" means a disaccharide sugar, which is a compound composed of two sugars linked together by an O-glycosidic bond, said compound being composed of two monosaccharide units (also called monoglycosides) as defined previously, said monosaccharide units comprising at least 5 carbon atoms, preferably 6; in particular, said monosaccharide units being linked together by a 1,4 or 1,6 bond as α (alpha) or β (beta) anomer, each glycoside unit possibly being in L or D configuration, as well as salts thereof and solvates thereof, for example hydrates of said monosaccharides; more particularly, they are polymers formed by two sugars (or monosaccharides) having the following general formula: - [C x (H2O) y )]2- or -[(CH2O) x ]2-, wherein x is an integer greater than or equal to 5, preferably x is greater than or equal to 6, in particular x is between 5 and 7 (including the end values), preferably x is equal to 6, and y is an integer representing x-1.

[0096] - The term "polysaccharide" means a polysaccharide sugar, which is a polymer composed of several sugars linked together via O-glycosidic bonds, said polymer being composed of monosaccharide units (also called monoglycosides) as defined above, said monosaccharide units comprising at least 5 carbon atoms, preferably 6; in particular, the monosaccharide units are linked together via 1,4 or 1,6 bonds as α (alpha) or β (beta) anomers, each glycoside unit possibly being in L or D configuration, as well as salts thereof and solvates thereof, for example hydrates of said monosaccharides; more particularly, they are polymers formed from a certain number of sugars (or monosaccharides) having the following general formula: - [C x (H2O) y )] w -or-[(CH2O) x ] w-, wherein x is an integer greater than or equal to 5, preferably x is greater than or equal to 6, in particular x is 5 to 7 (inclusive), and preferably x is equal to 6, and y is an integer representing x-1, and w is an integer greater than or equal to 2, in particular 3 to 3000 (inclusive), more in particular 5 to 2500, preferably 10 to 2300, in particular 15 to 1000 (inclusive), more in particular 20 to 500, preferably 25 to 200.

[0097] - "Anionic counterion" is an anion or anionic group associated with a cationic charge; more particularly, the anionic counterion is selected from: i) a halide, such as chloride or bromide; ii) a nitrate; iii) a sulfonate, including a C1-C6 alkylsulfonate: Alk-S(O)2O - , such as methanesulfonate or methanesulfonate and ethanesulfonate; iv) arylsulfonate: Ar-S(O)2O - , such as benzenesulfonate and toluenesulfonate (toluenesulfonate or tosylate); v) citrate; vi) succinate; vii) tartrate; viiii) lactate; ix) alkyl sulfate: Alk-OS(O)O - , such as methyl sulfate and ethyl sulfate; x) aryl sulfate: Ar-OS(O)O - , such as benzene sulfate and toluene sulfate; xi) alkoxy sulfate: Alk-OS(O)2O - , such as methoxysulfate and ethoxysulfate; xii) aryloxysulfate: Ar-OS(O)2O - ; xiii) phosphate; xiv) acetate; xv) triflate; and xvi) borate such as tetrafluoroborate.

[0098] "Solvates" denote hydrates and also combinations with linear or branched C1-C4 alcohols, such as ethanol, isopropanol or n-propanol.

[0099] The term "UV-A screening agent" means a chromophore derived from a compound that screens (or absorbs) UV-A ultraviolet rays at a wavelength of 320 to 400 nm. A distinction can be made between short UV-A screening agents (which absorb rays at a wavelength of 320 to 340 nm) and long UV-A screening agents (which absorb rays at a wavelength of 340 to 400 nm).

[0100] - The term "UV-B screening agent" means a chromophore derived from a compound that screens (or absorbs) UV-B ultraviolet rays at a wavelength of 280 to 320 nm.

[0101] The term "chromophore" means a group derived from a colorless or colored compound that is capable of absorbing UV and / or visible radiation at a wavelength λabs between 250 and 800 nm. Preferably, the chromophore is colored, i.e. it absorbs wavelengths in the visible range (i.e. preferably between 400 and 800 nm). Preferably, the chromophore appears colored to the eye, in particular between 400 and 700 nm (Ullmann's Encyclopedia, 2005, Wiley-VcH, Verlad "Dyes, General Survey", §2.1 Basic Principle of Color);

[0102] The term "anhydrous composition" means that the composition contains less than 5% by weight of water, preferably less than 3% by weight of water and better still less than 1% by weight of water relative to the total weight of the composition in question; even more preferably, the composition under consideration is free of water.

[0103] Unless otherwise stated, the expression "comprising" or "including" should be understood as being synonymous with "comprising at least one" or "comprising one or more."

[0104] Unless otherwise stated, the expressions “between,” “including from to,” “formed from to,” and “ranging from to” should be understood to include limitations.

[0105] -The terms "colorant" and "dying agent" are equivalent.

[0106] It will be understood that the treatment methods according to the invention and also the compositions used are non-therapeutic. DETAILED DESCRIPTION

[0107] Treatment method

[0108] A first subject of the present invention is a treatment method for keratin fibers, preferably hair, in one or more steps:

[0109] i) at least one or more compounds of formula (I) (as defined above and below), or a composition containing the same;

[0110] ii) optionally at least one cross-linking agent, in particular as defined below; and

[0111] iii) optionally at least one cosmetic active agent, in particular as defined below.

[0112] According to a particular embodiment of the present invention, the method of treatment according to the invention involves the simultaneous application of components i), ii) and / or iii).

[0113] According to another particular embodiment of the invention, the treatment method according to the invention comprises at least two steps, wherein ingredients i), ii) and optionally iii) are applied to the keratin fibers, preferably the hair, in separate and consecutive steps, it being understood that the cosmetic active agent(s) iii) may be present together with the ingredient(s) i) and / or the ingredient(s) ii).

[0114] According to one particular embodiment, ingredient(s) i) are applied to the keratin fibers, preferably the hair, and then ingredient(s) ii) are applied to the keratin fibers, preferably the hair, it being understood that ingredient iii), when present, may be applied with i) and / or with ii).

[0115] According to another particular embodiment, ingredient(s) ii) are applied to the keratin fibers, preferably the hair, and then ingredient(s) i) are applied to the keratin fibers, preferably the hair, it being understood that ingredient iii), when present, may be applied with i) and / or with ii).

[0116] According to another particular embodiment of the invention, the treatment method according to the invention comprises at least two steps, in which components i) and iii) are applied to the keratin fibers, preferably the hair, in separate and consecutive steps, it being understood that the cosmetic active agent(s) iii) may be present together with the ingredient(s) i) and / or with the ingredient(s) ii) when they are present.

[0117] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the method for treating keratin fibers is a cosmetic method for caring for, styling and / or coloring keratin fibers, preferably the hair.

[0118] According to one aspect of the invention, the method for treating keratin fibers according to the invention using components i), optionally ii) and optionally iii) is for the treatment of colored keratin fibers, preferably hair. According to this embodiment, the method particularly comprises at least one cosmetic active agent chosen from coloring agents, preferably pigments.

[0119] According to a further aspect of the invention, the method for treating keratin fibers using components i), optionally ii) and optionally iii) according to the invention is a method for styling keratin fibers, preferably the hair.

[0120] When the treatment method involves several steps (which include the step of using one or more compounds of formula (I), (Ia), (Ib), (Ic), (Id), (Ie), (Iic), (Iid) and / or (Iie) without using a cross-linking agent), the (one or more) compounds of formula (I), (Ia), (Ib), (Ic), (Id), (Ie), (Iic), (Iid) and / or (Iie) can be used alone (neat) or in the composition "C1" as described below.

[0121] According to one embodiment of the invention, the method according to the invention is a method for treating, in particular for cosmetic treatment, keratin fibres, in particular for caring for, styling and / or colouring keratin fibres, preferably the hair, comprising applying to said keratin fibres at least:

[0122] a composition, referred to as "C1", comprising i) at least one compound of formula (I) or (Ia), (Ib), (Ic), (Id) and / or (Ie) as defined above and below, and optionally iii) at least one cosmetic active agent, in particular as defined above and below; preferably, composition "C1" does not comprise ii) a crosslinker;

[0123] a composition, referred to as "C2", comprising i) at least one compound of formula (I) or (Ia), (Ib), (Ic), (Id) and / or (Ie), as defined above and below, ii) at least one crosslinker, in particular as defined below, and optionally iii) at least one cosmetic active agent, in particular as defined above and below; preferably, composition "C2" does not comprise iii) a cosmetic active agent;

[0124] - a composition, called "C3", comprising i) at least one compound of formula (I) or (Ia), (Ib), (Ic), (Id) and / or (Ie) as defined above and below, ii) at least one crosslinker, in particular as defined below, and iii) at least one cosmetic active agent, in particular as defined above and below;

[0125] a composition called "C4" comprising ii) at least one crosslinker, in particular as defined below, and optionally iii) at least one cosmetic active agent, in particular as defined above and below; preferably, composition "C4" does not comprise i) at least one compound of formula (I) or (Ia), (Ib), (Ic), (Id) and / or (Ie) as defined above and below; and / or

[0126] a composition called "C5" comprising iii) at least one cosmetic active agent, in particular as defined above and below; preferably, composition "C5" does not comprise i) at least one compound of formula (I) or (Ia), (Ib), (Ic), (Id) and / or (Ie) as defined above and below, and does not comprise ii) at least one crosslinker;

[0127] It will be understood that the process uses i) at least one compound of formula (I) or (Ia), (Ib), (Ic), (Id) and / or (Ie) as defined previously and hereinafter, and that the compositions "C1", "C2", "C3", "C4" and "C5" may be anhydrous, aqueous (e.g. hydro-alcoholic) and / or contain one or more fatty substances iv), in particular as described hereinafter.

[0128] According to one embodiment of the invention, the method according to the invention is a method for treating, in particular for cosmetic treatment, keratin fibres, in particular for caring for, styling and / or colouring keratin fibres, preferably the hair, comprising applying to said keratin fibres at least:

[0129] at least one compound of formula (I) or (Ia), (Ib), (Ic), (Id) and / or (Ie) as defined above and below, and optionally iii) at least one cosmetic active agent, in particular as defined above and below;

[0130] a composition, referred to as "C2", comprising i) at least one compound of formula (I) or (Ia), (Ib), (Ic), (Id) and / or (Ie), as defined above and below, ii) at least one crosslinker, in particular as defined below, and optionally iii) at least one cosmetic active agent, in particular as defined above and below; preferably, composition "C2" does not comprise iii) a cosmetic active agent;

[0131] - a composition, called "C3", comprising i) at least one compound of formula (I) or (Ia), (Ib), (Ic), (Id) and / or (Ie) as defined above and below, ii) at least one crosslinker, in particular as defined below, and iii) at least one cosmetic active agent, in particular as defined above and below;

[0132] a composition called "C4" comprising ii) at least one crosslinker, in particular as defined below, and optionally iii) at least one cosmetic active agent, in particular as defined above and below; preferably, composition "C4" does not comprise i) at least one compound of formula (I) or (Ia), (Ib), (Ic), (Id) and / or (Ie) as defined above and below; and / or

[0133] a composition called "C5" comprising iii) at least one cosmetic active agent, in particular as defined above and below; preferably, composition "C5" does not comprise i) at least one compound of formula (I) or (Ia), (Ib), (Ic), (Id) and / or (Ie) as defined above and below, and does not comprise ii) at least one crosslinker;

[0134] It will be understood that the process uses i) at least one compound of formula (I) or (Ia), (Ib), (Ic), (Id) and / or (Ie) as defined previously and hereinafter, and that the compositions "C2", "C3", "C4" and "C5" may be anhydrous, aqueous (e.g. hydro-alcoholic) and / or contain one or more fatty substances iv), in particular as described hereinafter.

[0135] According to one aspect of the invention, a method for treating keratin fibers, in particular for caring for, styling and / or coloring keratin fibers, preferably hair, uses i) at least one compound of formula (I) or (Ia), (Ib), (Ic), (Id), (Ie), (Iic), (Iid) and / or (Iie), as defined above and below, or a composition referred to as "C1" comprising the same, said composition "C1" optionally comprising iii) at least one cosmetic active agent, in particular as defined above and below, in particular chosen from a) colorants, such as pigments, direct dyes and mixtures thereof, b) active agents for caring for keratin fibers, c) UV-screening agents, and d) mixtures thereof, and in particular at least one colorant, more particularly at least one pigment.

[0136] According to another aspect, a method for treating keratin fibers, in particular for caring for, styling and / or coloring keratin fibers, preferably hair, uses a composition, referred to as "C2", comprising i) at least one compound of formula (I) or (Ia), (Ib), (Ic), (Id), (Ie), (Iic), (Iid) and / or (Iie) as defined above and below, ii) at least one crosslinker, in particular as defined below, and optionally iii) at least one cosmetic active agent, in particular as defined above and below, and in particular at least one coloring agent, more particularly at least one pigment.

[0137] According to one aspect of the invention, a method for treating keratin fibers, in particular for caring for, styling and / or coloring keratin fibers, preferably hair, uses a composition called "C3", comprising i) at least one compound of formula (I) or (Ia), (Ib), (Ic), (Id), (Ie), (Iic), (Iid) and / or (Iie) as defined above and below, ii) at least one crosslinker, in particular as defined above and below, and iii) at least one cosmetic active agent, in particular as defined below, in particular chosen from a) colorants, such as pigments, direct dyes and mixtures thereof, b) active agents for caring for keratin fibers, c) UV-screening agents and d) mixtures thereof, and in particular at least one colorant, more particularly at least one pigment.

[0138] According to another aspect, a method for treating keratin fibers, in particular for caring for, styling and / or coloring keratin fibers, preferably hair, uses a composition designated "C1" or i) at least one compound of formula (I) or (Ia), (Ib), (Ic), (Id), (Ie), (Iic), (Iid) and / or (Iie), as defined above and below, and optionally iii) at least one cosmetic active agent, in particular as defined above and below, and said composition "C4" comprises ii) at least one crosslinker, in particular as defined below, and optionally iii) at least one cosmetic active agent, in particular as defined above and below.

[0139] According to another aspect, a method for treating keratin fibers, in particular for caring for, styling and / or coloring keratin fibers, preferably hair, uses a composition designated "C1" comprising i) at least one compound of formula (I) or (Ia), (Ib), (Ic), (Id), (Ie), (Iic), (Iid) and / or (Iie), as defined above and below, and optionally iii) at least one cosmetic active agent, in particular as defined above and below, a composition designated "C4" comprising ii) at least one crosslinker, in particular as defined below, and optionally iii) at least one cosmetic active agent, in particular as defined above and below, and a composition designated "C5" comprising iii) at least one cosmetic active agent, in particular as defined above and below, or i) at least one compound of formula (I) or (Ia), (Ib), (Ic), (Id), (Ie), (Iic), (Iid) and / or (Iie), as defined above and below, and a composition designated "C4" and a composition designated "C5".

[0140] According to another aspect, a method for treating keratin fibers, in particular for caring for, styling and / or coloring keratin fibers, preferably hair, uses a composition referred to as "C1" comprising i) at least one compound of formula (I) or (Ia), (Ib), (Ic), (Id), (Ie), (Iic), (Iid) and / or (Iie), as defined above and below, and optionally iii) at least one cosmetic active agent, in particular as defined above and below, and a composition referred to as "C5" comprising iii) at least one cosmetic active agent, in particular as defined above and below.

[0141] According to another aspect, a method for treating keratin fibers, in particular for caring for, styling and / or coloring keratin fibers, preferably hair, uses a composition referred to as "C2" comprising i) at least one compound of formula (I) or (Ia), (Ib), (Ic), (Id), (Ie), (Iic), (Iid) and / or (Iie), as defined above and below, ii) at least one crosslinker, in particular as defined below, and optionally iii) at least one cosmetic active agent, in particular as defined above and below, and a composition referred to as "C5" comprising iii) at least one cosmetic active agent, in particular as defined above and below.

[0142] According to a variant of the method according to the invention, during a first step, ingredient(s) i) and optionally iii) are applied together (ie simultaneously) to the keratin fibers, preferably the hair, and then during a subsequent step, ingredient(s) ii) and / or iii) are applied to the keratin fibers, preferably the hair.

[0143] According to one particular embodiment, the method according to the invention comprises two consecutive steps in which two different compositions are applied to the keratin fibers.

[0144] According to a particular embodiment of the process, during a first step, composition "C1" or i) at least one compound of formula (I) or (Ia), (Ib), (Ic), (Id), (Ie), (Iic), (Iid) and / or (Iie) as defined previously and hereinafter is applied to the keratin fibers, and then composition "C4" is applied to said keratin fibers.

[0145] According to another variant of the method according to the invention, ingredient(s) (ii) and optionally iii) are applied to the keratin fibers and then ingredient(s) (i) and optionally iii) at least one cosmetic active agent, in particular as defined above, are applied to the keratin fibers. In particular, composition "C4" is applied to the keratin fibers and then composition "C1" or i) at least one compound of formula (I) or (Ia), (Ib), (Ic), (Id), (Ie), (Iic), (Iid) and / or (Iie) as defined above and below is applied.

[0146] According to another variant of the method of the invention, i) at least one compound of formula (I) or (Ia), (Ib), (Ic), (Id), (Ie), (Iic), (Iid) and / or (Iie) as defined above and below, or a composition "C1" containing it and optionally containing iii) is administered, and sequentially a composition "C4" containing ii) and optionally iii) is administered, preferably i) or composition "C1" is administered before composition "C4".

[0147] According to another variant of the method according to the invention, a composition "C2" is applied comprising i), ii) at least one cross-linking agent and optionally iii) at least one cosmetic active agent, and sequentially a composition "C4" is applied comprising ii) at least one cross-linking agent, optionally iii) at least one cosmetic active agent, composition "C2" being preferably applied before composition "C4", and it being understood that the optional cross-linking agent(s) comprised in composition "C2" may be identical to or different from the cross-linking agent(s) comprised in composition "C4"; preferably, the cross-linking agent(s) are different.

[0148] Compositions "C1", "C2", "C3", "C4" and / or "C5" according to the process of the invention, which comprise at least one fatty substance iv), in particular at least one oil, may be in the form of a direct or inverse emulsion.

[0149] The compositions "C1", "C2", "C3", "C4" and / or "C5" according to the method of the invention can thus be applied as such directly to the keratin fibres or can even be formed directly on the surface of these keratin fibres.

[0150] According to the invention, a distinction is therefore made between three administration methods, which are referred to as "single-gesture administration mode", "two-gesture administration mode" and "three-gesture administration mode".

[0151] According to one embodiment of the method according to the invention, the method is carried out in a single step by applying to the keratin fibres a composition “C1” or “C2” or “C3” as previously defined.

[0152] Thus, according to one embodiment, the treatment method according to the invention comprises a single step of applying i) at least one compound of formula (I) or (Ia), (Ib), (Ic), (Id), (Ie), (Iic), (Iid) and / or (Iie) as defined above and below, or composition "C1" or composition "C2" or composition "C3" to the keratin fibers.

[0153] The term “single-step application mode” means the application of a single composition according to the invention (ie composition “C1” or composition “C2” or composition “C3”) directly to the target keratin fibres.

[0154] The term "single-step administration mode" also means i) a single administration of at least one compound of Formula (I) or (la), (lb), (lc), (Id), (le), (lic), (lid) and / or (lie) (as defined above and below).

[0155] After applying composition "C1" or i) at least one compound of formula (I) or (Ia), (Ib), (Ic), (Id), (Ie), (Iic), (Iid) and / or (Iie) as defined above and below, or composition "C2" or composition "C3", a long-lasting, non-tacky deposit is advantageously obtained. The deposit obtained is also resistant to food oils, water, shampooing, sebum and / or friction.

[0156] According to a further embodiment of the process according to the invention, the process is carried out in two steps.

[0157] The term “two-step application mode” means the successive application of two different compositions to the keratin fibers, for example “C1” and “C4”, or “C2” and “C4”, or “C3” and “C4”, preferably “C1” and then “C4”, “C2” and then “C4”, or “C3” and then “C4”.

[0158] The term "two-step application mode" also means the sequential application to keratin fibers, preferably hair, i) at least one compound of formula (I) or (Ia), (Ib), (Ic), (Id), (Ie), (Iic), (Iid) and / or (Iie) as defined above and below, and composition "C4", preferably i) and then "C4".

[0159] According to another embodiment, the method of the invention is performed in three steps.

[0160] The term "three-step application mode" means the sequential application of three different compositions "C1" to "C5". According to this application mode, for example, according to one embodiment, a successive application is carried out on the keratin fibers: α) composition "C1", then β) composition "C4", then γ) composition "C5", preferably "C1", then "C4" or respectively "C5" or "C5" or respectively "C4".

[0161] According to another embodiment, the keratin fibers are applied sequentially, α) composition, for example “C4”, and β) composition “C1” or composition “C2”, and also γ) composition “C5”.

[0162] The term "three-step administration mode" also means the sequential administration of i) at least one compound of formula (I) or (Ia), (Ib), (Ic), (Id), (Ie), (Iic), (Iid) and / or (Iie) as defined previously and below, composition "C4" and composition "C5".

[0163] In a two-step or three-step application mode, the composition applied first (e.g., "C1" or i) or "C2") is generally referred to as the "base coat" and the composition(s) superimposed thereon (e.g., "C4") is generally referred to as the "top coat."

[0164] After application of the various compositions "C1" or i) and "C2" to "C5", a durable, non-sticky deposit is advantageously obtained. The deposit obtained is also resistant to washing with food oils, water and shampoo.

[0165] According to a particular embodiment, compositions "C1" or i) and "C2" to "C5" are applied to dry keratin fibers.

[0166] According to a particular embodiment, the compositions "C1" or i) and "C2" to "C5" are applied to keratin fibers that are damp or wet, ie keratin fibers that contain water on the surface.

[0167] According to a specific embodiment, the keratin fibers are dried after applying compositions "C1" or i) and "C2" to "C5", in particular after applying each of the different compositions. The drying step can be carried out using a drying device (for example, a helmet, a hair dryer or a climazon). When the drying step is carried out using a helmet or a hair dryer, the drying temperature is above 40°C. After the drying step, the keratin fibers can be shaped using a hair straightener ("feràlisser"), a straightening or curling iron or a steam iron, preferably a hair straightener or a steam iron. Preferably, the keratin fibers are shaped at a temperature above 100°C. The iron can be applied to the keratin fibers with a continuous, separate contact action of several seconds or by gradually moving or sliding it along the hair. Preferably, the iron is applied in one or more passes, moving continuously from the roots to the ends of the hair.

[0168] According to one aspect, the present invention relates to a method, in particular a cosmetic method, for caring for, styling and / or coloring keratin fibers, preferably hair, comprising the step of applying i) at least one compound of formula (I) or (Ia), (Ib), (Ic), (Id), (Ie), (Iic), (Iid) and / or (Iie), or a composition "C1", "C2" or "C3" containing the same, especially containing at least one coloring agent, in particular as defined above, and more in particular at least one pigment, to the keratin fibers.

[0169] According to another of its aspects, the present invention relates to a method for the cosmetic treatment of keratin fibers, in particular for caring for, styling and / or coloring keratin fibers, preferably the hair, comprising the continuous application to said keratin fibers of at least:

[0170] -i) at least one compound of formula (I) or (Ia), (Ib), (Ic), (Id), (Ie), (Iic), (Iid) and / or (Iie) as defined above and below, or a composition called "C1" containing the same, and optionally iii) at least one cosmetic active agent, in particular as defined above and below; and then

[0171] - a composition, called "C4", comprising ii) at least one crosslinker, in particular as defined below, and optionally iii) at least one cosmetic active agent, in particular as defined above and below;

[0172] At least one of the compositions "C1" and / or "C4" contains at least one coloring agent, in particular as defined previously and hereinafter, preferably at least one pigment, and more preferably the composition "C1" comprises at least one pigment.

[0173] According to another of its aspects, the present invention relates to a cosmetic method for treating keratin fibers, in particular for caring for, styling and / or coloring keratin fibers, preferably the hair, comprising the successive application of at least:

[0174] -i) at least one compound of formula (I) or (Ia), (Ib), (Ic), (Id), (Ie), (Iic), (Iid) and / or (Iie) as defined above and below, or a composition "C1" or "C2" or "C3" as defined above; and / or

[0175] - Composition "C4" as defined previously;

[0176] It will be understood that the process uses all or individually i) at least one compound of formula (I) or (Ia), (Ib), (Ic), (Id), (Ie), (Iic), (Iid) and / or (Iie) (as defined previously and below), and that the compositions "C1", "C2", "C3" and / or "C4" may be anhydrous, aqueous (e.g. hydro-alcoholic) and / or contain one or more fatty substances iv) as described in detail below.

[0177] According to another of its aspects, the present invention relates to a cosmetic method for treating keratin fibers, in particular for caring for, styling and / or coloring keratin fibers, preferably the hair, comprising the sequential application of at least:

[0178] -i) at least one compound of formula (I) or (Ia), (Ib), (Ic), (Id), (Ie), (Iic), (Iid) and / or (Iie) as defined previously and below, or composition "C1" as defined previously; and then

[0179] - a composition "C4" as defined previously; and then

[0180] - Composition "C5" as defined previously;

[0181] It will be understood that composition "C1" and / or "C4" and / or "C5" comprises at least one coloring agent, in particular as defined below, preferably at least one pigment. Preferably, composition "C5" comprises at least one pigment.

[0182] According to another of its aspects, the present invention relates to a cosmetic method for treating keratin fibers, in particular for caring for, styling and / or coloring keratin fibers, preferably the hair, comprising the successive application of at least:

[0183] - a composition "C2" or "C3" as defined previously; and

[0184] - Composition "C4" as defined previously;

[0185] It is understood that the composition "C2" or "C3" contains at least iv) one coloring agent, in particular as defined below, and / or the composition "C4" contains at least one coloring agent, in particular as defined below; preferably the composition "C2" or "C3" comprises at least one pigment.

[0186] Compound i): Oil functionalized with acetoacetate functional groups

[0187] As stated above, the treatment method according to the invention involves applying to keratin fibres, preferably the hair, at least one or more compounds of formula (I) or a composition comprising the same.

[0188] The treatment method according to the invention therefore comprises applying to keratin fibres, preferably the hair, at least one or more compounds of formula (I) and also optical and geometric isomers thereof, and / or solvates (for example hydrates) thereof or a composition containing the same:

[0189]

[0190] Formula (I):

[0191] -Z represents a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, conjugated or non-conjugated, acyclic or cyclic, aromatic or non-aromatic polyvalent C2 to C 40 , especially C3 to C 36 Based on hydrocarbon groups, Z may be replaced by one or more selected from -O-, -N(R a )-, -S-, -C(O)-, (one or more) (hetero)cyclic rings and / or combinations thereof, or heteroatoms;

[0192] -AK1 represents a divalent saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched C1-C 12 , preferably C1-C6, more preferably a saturated C1-C6 hydrocarbon-based chain;

[0193] -AK2 represents a straight chain or branched chain, saturated or unsaturated, C1-C 40 A monovalent hydrocarbon-based chain, which is optionally substituted by one or more identical or different groups selected from -OR, -X-AK3-(OC(O)-C(R a )(R b )-C(O)-R4) v and / or the chain is optionally interrupted by one or more heteroatoms or groups selected from -O-, -S-, -C(O)-, (hetero)cycle and combinations thereof, in particular O-(CO)-, -(CO)-O- or -(hetero)cycle-O-(hetero)cycle-;

[0194] -AK3 represents a divalent straight or branched, saturated or unsaturated C1-C 12 , preferably C1-C6, more preferably saturated C1-C6, even more preferably C1-C4 hydrocarbon-based chains;

[0195] -R represents a hydrogen atom, a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C1-C6, preferably C1-C4, alkyl group, in particular a methyl group, or a group -C(O)-C(R a )(R b )-C(O)-R4;

[0196] -X represents -O-, -S-, -OC(O)- or -C(O)-O-;

[0197] -Y represents -OC(O)- or -C(O)-O-;

[0198] - R4 represents a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C1-C6 monovalent hydrocarbon-based group, preferably a (C1-C4)alkyl group, in particular a methyl group or a tert-butyl group, more preferably a methyl group;

[0199] -R a and R b , which may be the same or different, represent a hydrogen atom or a (C1-C4) alkyl group, preferably a hydrogen atom;

[0200] -p represents an integer equal to 0 or 1;

[0201] -m represents an integer equal to 0, 1, 2, 3 or 4; it is understood that when m is greater than 1, then the groups -Y-AK2 are identical or different;

[0202] -n represents an integer equal to 0, 1, 2, 3 or 4; it is understood that when n is greater than 1, then the group -(O) t -(AK1) q -(OC(O)-C(R a )(R b )-C(O)-R4) u Same or different;

[0203] -t represents an integer equal to 0 or 1;

[0204] -q represents an integer equal to 0 or 1;

[0205] -u represents an integer equal to 1, 2, or 3;

[0206] -v represents an integer equal to 1, 2, or 3;

[0207] It is understood that if q is equal to 0, then t is equal to 0, (m+n) is greater than or equal to 1, and the compound of formula (I) contains at least two groups -C(O)-C(Ra )(R b )-C(O)-R4.

[0208] According to a preferred embodiment, the compound(s) of formula (I) and also the optical or geometric isomers and / or solvates thereof, such as hydrates, are such that Z represents a group selected from:

[0209] a) a divalent group, preferably C2-C 30 Group, optionally one or more selected from -O-, -N(R a )-, -S-, -C(O)- and / or (one or more) (hetero)cycles, in particular the group -CH2-(CH2) f wherein f represents an integer between 1 and 10, preferably between 1 and 5, or a group such as -(CH2) g -(Heterocyclic)-O-(CH2) h -(Heterocycle)-(CH2) j -, wherein h represents 0, 1 or 2, preferably 0 or 1, and g and j independently of each other represent an integer between 1 and 3, preferably 1;

[0210] b) a trivalent group, preferably C3-C6, in particular CH2-CH-CH2-; and

[0211] c) a tetravalent group, preferably a C3-C 12 , in particular -CH2-C-CH2-CH2-CH2- or -CH2-C-CH2- or a group –(CH2) a -CH-CH-(CH2) b -, wherein a and b independently represent an integer equal to 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9 or 10; preferably, a is greater than b.

[0212] According to a preferred embodiment, the (hetero)cycle represents a heterocyclic divalent radical (i.e. a heterocycle), preferably a heterocycloalkyl group, more particularly a divalent 3-, 5- or 6-membered heterocycloalkyl group, such as a divalent epoxy group, a divalent tetrahydrofuran group or a divalent tetrahydropyran group, said (hetero)cycle being optionally substituted by one or more radicals selected from -OR, wherein R is as defined above, and in particular -OH or -OC(O)-C(R a )(R b )-C(O)-R4.

[0213] According to a preferred embodiment, AK2 represents a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, C 12 -C 28 A monovalent hydrocarbon-based chain, optionally substituted with one or more residues selected from -OR, -X-AK3-(OC(O)-C(Ra )(R b )-C(O)-R4) v The same or different groups are substituted by -OC(O)- or -C(O)-O-.

[0214] According to a specific embodiment, as defined above and below, the compound(s) of formula (I) or (Ia), (Ib), (Ic), (Id) and (Ie) or alternatively (Iic), (Iid) or (Iie) are present in the composition in a content ranging from 0.1% to 99% by weight, preferably from 1% to 98% by weight and more preferably from 5% to 96% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition under consideration.

[0215] According to another particular embodiment, when the treatment method according to the invention comprises several steps, at least one of which does not use a crosslinking agent ii) or a cosmetic active agent iii)), the compound(s) of formula (I) or (Ia), (Ib), (Ic), (Id), (Ie), (Iic), (Iid) or (Iie), as defined above and below, may be used alone (purely) in this step or these steps.

[0216] According to a first embodiment variant, the compound(s) of formula (I) and also the optical or geometric isomers and / or solvates (eg hydrates) thereof are such that:

[0217] -Z represents a trivalent group -CH2-CH-CH2-;

[0218] -p is equal to 0;

[0219] -n is equal to 0;

[0220] -m is equal to 3;

[0221] -AK2 represents linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, C 12 -C 24 A monovalent hydrocarbon-based chain, which is optionally substituted by one or more identical or different groups selected from -OR, -X-AK3-(OC(O)-C(R a )(R b )-C(O)-R4) v and / or the chain is optionally interrupted by one or more heteroatoms or groups selected from -O-, -S-, -C(O)-, epoxides and combinations thereof, in particular O-(CO)- or (CO)-O-;

[0222] -Y、AK3、v、R、X、R4、R a and R b As previously defined for formula (I);

[0223] It is understood that the compound contains at least two groups -C(O)-C(R a )(R b )-C(O)-R4.

[0224] According to a preferred embodiment, AK2 represents a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, C 12 -C 24 A monovalent hydrocarbon-based chain, which is optionally substituted by one or more identical or different groups selected from -OR, -X-AK3-(OC(O)-C(R a )(R b )-C(O)-R4) v and / or the chain is optionally interrupted by one or more heteroatoms or groups selected from -O-, -S-, -C(O)- and combinations thereof, in particular -OC(O)- or -C(O)-O-.

[0225] According to this embodiment variant, the compound(s) of formula (I) are in particular selected from the following compounds (1), (2), (3), (4), (7), (8), (9), (11) and (16), and also their optical or geometric isomers and / or solvates, such as hydrates:

[0226]

[0227]

[0228]

[0229]

[0230]

[0231] According to a second embodiment variant, the compound(s) of formula (I) and also the optical or geometric isomers and / or solvates (eg hydrates) thereof are such that:

[0232] -p is equal to 0;

[0233] -Z represents a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, preferably saturated, acyclic, polyvalent C4 to C 24 , especially C6 to C 20 , more especially C 14 to C 20 , especially C 17 The hydrocarbon-based group, Z is also optionally replaced by one or more groups -[(O) t -(AK1) q -(OC(O)-C(Ra )(R b )-C(O)-R4) u ] n replace;

[0234] -n represents an integer equal to 0, 1, 2, 3 or 4; it is understood that when n is greater than 1, the group -(O) t -(AK1) q -(OC(O)-C(R a )(R b )-C(O)-R4) u The same or different; preferably, n is non-zero;

[0235] -m is equal to 1;

[0236] -AK2 represents a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, preferably saturated, C3-C8, especially C4 or C6 monovalent hydrocarbon-based chain, substituted by one or more identical or different radicals selected from -OR, -X-AK3-(OC(O)-C(R a )(R b )-C(O)-R4) v substituted by groups, preferably by one or more groups -OR; and / or the chain is optionally interrupted by one or more heteroatoms or groups selected from -O-, -S-, -C(O)-, (one or more) (hetero)cycles and combinations thereof, in particular -OC(O)-, -C(O)-O-, -(hetero)cycle-O-(hetero)cycle-, and is preferably uninterrupted;

[0237] -Y, AK1, AK3, t, q, u, v, R, X, R4, R a and R b As previously defined for formula (I);

[0238] It is understood that the compound contains at least two groups -C(O)-C(R a )(R b )-C(O)-R4.

[0239] According to this embodiment variant, the compound(s) of formula (I) are in particular selected from the following compounds (5) and (6), and also their optical or geometric isomers and / or solvates, such as hydrates:

[0240]

[0241] According to a third embodiment variant, the compound(s) of formula (I) and also the optical or geometric isomers and / or solvates (eg hydrates) thereof are such that:

[0242] -p is equal to 0;

[0243] -n+m is equal to 4, m is non-zero;

[0244] -Z represents an unsubstituted and uninterrupted, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, preferably saturated and acyclic C2 to C 24 , especially C3 to C 10 , especially C3 tetravalent hydrocarbon-based groups;

[0245] -AK2 independently represents a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, preferably saturated C 12 -C 24 , preferably C 16 -C 20 , especially C 18 a monovalent hydrocarbon-based chain, optionally substituted by one or more identical or different groups selected from -OR and -X-AK3-(OC(O)-C(R a )(R b )-C(O)-R4) v substituted by one or more groups -X-AK3-(OC(O)-C(R a )(R b )-C(O)-R4) v substituted; and / or the chain is optionally interrupted by one or more heteroatoms or groups selected from -O-, -S-, -C(O)-, (one or more) (hetero)cycles and combinations thereof, in particular -OC(O)-, -C(O)-O-, -(hetero)cycle-O-(hetero)cycle-, and preferably is not interrupted;

[0246] -AK3 represents a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C1-C 12 , preferably a divalent hydrocarbon-based chain of C1-C6, more preferably a saturated C1-C6, even more preferably C2-C4, still better C3;

[0247] - v is as previously defined for formula (I); preferably v is equal to 2;

[0248] -X is as previously defined for formula (I); preferably, X represents a sulfur atom;

[0249] -Y, AK1, u, t, q, R, R4, R a and R b As previously defined for formula (I);

[0250] It is understood that the compound contains at least two groups -C(O)-C(R a )(R b )-C(O)-R4.

[0251] According to a preferred embodiment, m is equal to 3, n is equal to 1 and u is equal to 1.

[0252] According to a preferred embodiment, t is equal to 0.

[0253] According to a preferred embodiment, q is equal to zero.

[0254] According to a preferred embodiment, Y represents -C(O)-O.

[0255] According to a preferred embodiment, none of the radicals AK2 are interrupted.

[0256] According to a preferred embodiment, the radical AK2 is saturated.

[0257] According to a preferred embodiment, the group AK2 is not substituted by -OR.

[0258] According to a preferred embodiment, AK3 represents a divalent linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C1-C6, more preferably saturated C1-C6, even more preferably saturated C1-C4, better still saturated C3 hydrocarbon-based chain.

[0259] According to this embodiment variant, the compound(s) of formula (I) are in particular selected from the following compounds (10), and also their optical or geometric isomers and / or their solvates, such as hydrates:

[0260]

[0261] According to a fourth embodiment variant, the compound(s) of formula (I) and also the optical or geometric isomers and / or solvates (eg hydrates) thereof are such that:

[0262] -p is equal to 1;

[0263] -Z represents a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, preferably saturated and acyclic polyvalent C 14 to C 24 , especially C 16 to C 20 , more especially C 17 The hydrocarbon-based group, Z is also optionally replaced by one or more groups -[(O) t -(AK1) q -(OC(O)-C(R a )(R b )-C(O)-R4) u ] n substituted, preferably unsubstituted;

[0264] -AK2 represents a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, preferably saturated C 14 -C 30, especially C 20 -C 29 A monovalent hydrocarbon-based chain, represented by one or more identical or different groups selected from -OR and -X-AK3-(OC(O)-C(R a )(R b )-C(O)-R4) v and / or the chain is optionally interrupted by one or more heteroatoms or groups selected from -O-, -S-, -C(O)-, (one or more) (hetero)cycles and combinations thereof, in particular -OC(O)-, -C(O)-O-, -(hetero)cycle-O-(hetero)cycle-, and is preferably interrupted by -OC(O)- or -C(O)-O-;

[0265] -X is as previously defined for formula (I); preferably X represents a sulfur atom;

[0266] -Y, AK1, AK3, n, m, v, t, q, u, R, R4, R a and R b As previously defined for formula (I);

[0267] It is understood that the compound contains at least two groups -C(O)-C(R a )(R b )-C(O)-R4.

[0268] According to a preferred embodiment, n is equal to 0 and m is equal to 1.

[0269] According to a preferred embodiment, Z is a divalent radical.

[0270] According to a preferred embodiment, if Z is an unsaturated chain, AK2 is an unsaturated chain, and if Z is a saturated chain, AK2 is a saturated chain.

[0271] According to this embodiment variant, the compound(s) of formula (I), and also the optical or geometric isomers thereof and / or their solvates, such as hydrates, are in particular of formula (Iic):

[0272] HZY-AK4-Y'-ZH(Iic)

[0273] The formula (Iic):

[0274] -Y is as previously defined for formula (I);

[0275] -Z represents a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, preferably saturated C 14 to C 24 , especially C 16 to C 20 , preferably C17 a divalent hydrocarbon-based group;

[0276] -Y' represents -C(O)-O- or -OC(O)-, it being understood that if Y represents -OC(O)-, Y' represents -C(O)-O-, and if Y represents -C(O)-O-, Y' represents -OC(O)-;

[0277] -AK4 represents a saturated divalent hydrocarbon-based group having 5 or 6 carbon atoms, substituted by at least two groups -OR, wherein R is as previously defined in formula (I);

[0278] It will be understood that the compound of formula (Iic) contains at least two groups -C(O)-C(R a )(R b )-C(O)-R4, and preferably four groups -C(O)-C(R a )(R b )-C(O)-R4.

[0279] According to this embodiment variant, the compound(s) of formula (I) are in particular selected from the following compounds (12), and also their optical or geometric isomers and / or their solvates, such as hydrates:

[0280]

[0281] According to a fifth embodiment variant, the compound(s) of formula (I) and also the optical or geometric isomers thereof and / or their solvates (eg hydrates) are such that:

[0282] -p is equal to 0;

[0283] -Z represents a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, preferably saturated and non-cyclic C2 to C 24 , especially C3 to C 10 , preferably a tetravalent hydrocarbon-based group of C4 or C5, Z is also replaced by one or more groups -[(O) t -(AK1) q -(OC(O)-C(R a )(R b )-C(O)-R4) u ] n substituted, n is preferably equal to 1;

[0284] - n + m is equal to 4, and preferably m is equal to 3;

[0285] -AK2 independently represents a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, preferably saturated C 14 to C 30 , preferably C 16to C 24 , preferably C 17 A hydrocarbon-based chain, said chain being optionally substituted by one or more identical or different groups selected from -OR and -X-AK3-(OC(O)-C(R a )(R b )-C(O)-R4) v substituted by groups, preferably by one or more groups -OR; and / or the chain is optionally interrupted by one or more heteroatoms or groups selected from -O-, -S-, -C(O)-, (one or more) (hetero)cycles and combinations thereof, in particular -OC(O)-, -C(O)-O-, -(hetero)cycle-O-(hetero)cycle-, and is preferably uninterrupted;

[0286] -X is as previously defined for formula (I); preferably, X represents a sulfur atom;

[0287] -Y, AK1, AK3, u, t, q, v, n, mR, R4, R a and R b As previously defined for formula (I);

[0288] It is understood that the compound contains at least two groups -C(O)-C(R a )(R b )-C(O)-R4.

[0289] According to a preferred embodiment, t is equal to 0 and u is equal to 1.

[0290] According to a preferred embodiment, all radicals AK2 are identical and preferably all radicals Y are identical.

[0291] According to a preferred embodiment, Y represents -OC(O)-.

[0292] According to a specific embodiment, the compound according to this variant has the general formula (Iid), and also its optical or geometric isomers and / or its solvates such as hydrates:

[0293] [AK'2-OCO-CH2]3-C-CH2-OC(O)-C(R a )(R b )-C(O)-R4 (Iid)

[0294] wherein the formula (Iid)AK'2 represents a linear or branched, preferably linear, saturated or unsaturated, preferably saturated C 14 -C 30 , preferably C 16 -C 24 , preferably C 17a monovalent hydrocarbon-based chain, said chain being separated by one or more identical or different groups selected from -OR, -S-AK3-(OC(O)-C(R a )(R b )-C(O)-R4) v substituted by a group, preferably substituted by one or more groups -OR; AK3, v, R, R4, R a and R b As previously defined for formula (I), it is understood that the compound contains at least two groups C(O)-C(R a )(R b )-C(O)-R4.

[0295] According to a sixth embodiment variant, the compound(s) of formula (I) and also the optical or geometric isomers and / or solvates (eg hydrates) thereof are such that:

[0296] -p is equal to 0;

[0297] -m is non-zero;

[0298] -Z represents a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, conjugated or non-conjugated, preferably non-conjugated, acyclic or cyclic, aromatic or non-aromatic, preferably non-aromatic, divalent C2 to C 24 , especially C3 to C 12 The hydrocarbon-based group, the group Z is also one or more selected from -O-, -N(R a )-, -S-, -C(O)-, (one or more) 5- or 6-membered heterocycloalkyl groups, and combinations thereof;

[0299] -AK2 represents a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, preferably saturated, C 14 -C 30 , preferably C 14 -C 24 , preferably C 17 a monovalent hydrocarbon-based chain, said chain being optionally substituted by one or more identical or different groups selected from -OR and -X-AK3-(OC(O)-C(R a )(R b )-C(O)-R4) v and / or the chain is optionally interrupted by one or more heteroatoms or groups selected from -O-, -S-, -C(O)-, (hetero)cycle and combinations thereof, in particular -OC(O)-, -C(O)-O- or -(hetero)cycle-O-(hetero)cycle-, preferably optionally interrupted by -OC(O)- or -C(O)-O- and more preferably not interrupted;

[0300] -X is as previously defined for formula (I); preferably, X represents a sulfur atom;

[0301] -Y, AK1, AK3, v, t, q, u, R, R4, R a and R b As previously defined for formula (I);

[0302] It is understood that the compound contains at least two groups -C(O)-C(R a )(R b )-C(O)-R4.

[0303] According to a preferred embodiment, according to this variant, Z represents a divalent radical -(CH2) g -(Heterocyclic)-O-(CH2) h -(Heterocycle)-(CH2) j , wherein h is equal to 0, 1 or 2, preferably equal to 0 or 1, g and j independently represent an integer between 1 and 3, preferably 1, (heterocycle) represents a divalent 5- or 6-membered heterocycloalkyl group, in particular a divalent tetrahydrofuran group or a divalent tetrahydropyran group, said heterocycle being optionally substituted by one or more groups selected from -OR, in which R is as previously defined for formula (I), and in particular -OH or -OC(O)-C(R a )(R b )-C(O)-R4.

[0304] According to a specific embodiment, the compound according to this variant has the general formula (Iie), and also its optical or geometric isomers and / or its solvates such as hydrates:

[0305] AK”2-C(O)-O-(CH2) g -(Heterocyclic)-O-(CH2) h -(Heterocycle)-(CH2) j -O-CO-AK"2(Iie)

[0306] The formula (Iie):

[0307] - h is equal to 0, 1 or 2 and is preferably equal to 0;

[0308] -g and j independently represent an integer between 1 and 3, preferably 1;

[0309] -(heterocycle) represents a divalent 5- or 6-membered heterocycloalkyl group substituted by one or more identical or different groups selected from -OR, wherein R is as previously defined for formula (I), and in particular is -OH or -OC(O)-C(R a )(R b )-C(O)-R4;

[0310] -AK"2 represents a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, preferably saturated C 14 -C 30 , preferably C 14 -C 24 , preferably C 17 a monovalent hydrocarbon-based chain, said chain being optionally substituted by one or more identical or different groups selected from -OH, -OC(O)-C(R a )(R b )-C(O)-R4 and -S-AK3-(OC(O)-C(R a )(R b )-C(O)-R4) v and / or the chain is optionally interrupted by one or more heteroatoms or groups selected from -O-, -S-, -C(O)-, (one or more) (hetero)cycles and combinations thereof, in particular -OC(O)-, -C(O)-O- or -(hetero)cycle-O-(hetero)cycle-, preferably optionally interrupted by -OC(O)- or -C(O)-O-, and more preferably not interrupted;

[0311] It is understood that the compound contains at least two groups -C(O)-C(R a )(R b )-C(O)-R4.

[0312] According to this embodiment variant, the compound of formula (I) or (Iie) is in particular selected from the following compounds (14), and also their optical and geometric isomers and / or their solvates, such as hydrates:

[0313]

[0314] Where W is a hydrogen atom or C(O)-C(R a )(R b )-C(O)-R4, and the compound contains at least two groups -C(O)-C(R a )(R b )-C(O)-R4.

[0315] According to a seventh embodiment variant, the compound(s) of formula (I) and also the optical or geometric isomers and / or solvates (eg hydrates) thereof are such that:

[0316] -p is equal to 0;

[0317] -Z represents a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, preferably saturated and non-cyclic C2 to C 24 , especially C3 to C 10, preferably a tetravalent hydrocarbon-based group of C4 or C5, Z is also replaced by one or more groups -[(O) t -(AK1) q -(OC(O)-C(R a )(R b )-C(O)-R4) u ] n replace;

[0318] - n + m is equal to 6, and preferably m is equal to 2;

[0319] -AK2 represents a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, preferably saturated, C3-C8, in particular C4, C5 or C6, monovalent hydrocarbon-based chain;

[0320] Y,AK1,AK3,t,q,u,v,R,X,R4,R a and R b As previously defined for formula (I);

[0321] It is understood that the compound contains at least two groups -C(O)-C(R a )(R b )-C(O)-R4.

[0322] According to this embodiment variant, the compound of formula (I) is in particular selected from the following compounds (15), and also their optical and geometric isomers and / or their solvates, such as hydrates:

[0323]

[0324] According to a preferred embodiment, the compound(s) of formula (I) are selected from the following compounds (1) to (16), and also their optical or geometric isomers and / or their solvates, such as hydrates:

[0325]

[0326]

[0327]

[0328]

[0329]

[0330]

[0331]

[0332] Where W is a hydrogen atom or C(O)-C(R a )(Rb )-C(O)-R4, and the compound contains at least two groups -C(O)-C(R a )(R b )-C(O)-R4.

[0333] According to a preferred embodiment, the compound(s) of formula (I) are selected from the above-mentioned compounds (1) to (14), and also the optical or geometric isomers thereof, and / or their solvates, such as hydrates.

[0334] According to a preferred embodiment, the compound(s) of formula (I) are in particular selected from the following compounds (1), (3), (4), (8), (9), (10), (11), (15) and (16), and also their optical or geometric isomers and / or their solvates, such as hydrates:

[0335]

[0336]

[0337]

[0338]

[0339]

[0340] According to a preferred embodiment, the compound(s) of formula (I) are in particular selected from the above-mentioned compounds (1), (3), (4), (8), (9), (10) and (11), and also their optical or geometric isomers and / or their solvates, such as hydrates.

[0341] Another subject of the present invention is a compound of formula (I), and also its optical or geometric isomers and / or its solvates (for example hydrates) and compositions comprising them, in particular cosmetic compositions, in particular for treating keratin fibers, in particular for caring for, styling and / or coloring keratin fibers (preferably hair):

[0342]

[0343] Formula (I):

[0344] -Z represents a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, conjugated or non-conjugated, acyclic or cyclic, aromatic or non-aromatic polyvalent C2 to C 40 , especially C3 to C 36 The hydrocarbon-based group, Z may be replaced by one or more selected from -O-, -N(R a )-, -S-, -C(O)-, (hetero)cyclic ring, and combinations thereof;

[0345] -AK1 represents a divalent, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C1-C 12 , preferably C1-C6, more preferably saturated C1-C6 hydrocarbon-based chains;

[0346] -AK2 represents a straight chain or branched chain, saturated or unsaturated, C1-C 40 A monovalent hydrocarbon-based chain, which is optionally substituted by one or more identical or different groups selected from -OR, -X-AK3-(OC(O)-C(R a )(R b )-C(O)-R4) v and / or the chain is optionally interrupted by one or more heteroatoms or groups selected from -O-, -S-, -C(O)-, (one or more) (hetero)cycles and combinations thereof, in particular -OC(O)-, -C(O)-O- and / or -(hetero)cycle-O-(hetero)cycle-;

[0347] -AK3 represents a divalent straight or branched, saturated or unsaturated C1-C 12 , preferably C1-C6, more preferably saturated C1-C6, even more preferably C1-C4 hydrocarbon-based chains;

[0348] -R represents a hydrogen atom, a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C1-C6, preferably C1-C4, alkyl group, in particular a methyl group, or a group -C(O)-C(R a )(R b )-C(O)-R4;

[0349] -X represents -O-, -S-, -OC(O)- or -C(O)-O-;

[0350] -Y represents -OC(O)- or -C(O)-O-;

[0351] - R4 represents a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C1-C6 monovalent hydrocarbon-based group, preferably a (C1-C4)alkyl group, in particular a methyl group or a tert-butyl group, more preferably a methyl group;

[0352] -R a and R b , which may be the same or different, represent a hydrogen atom or a (C1-C4) alkyl group, preferably a hydrogen atom;

[0353] -p represents an integer equal to 0 or 1;

[0354] -m represents an integer equal to 0, 1, 2, 3 or 4; it is understood that when m is greater than 1, the groups -Y-AK2 are identical or different;

[0355] -n represents an integer equal to 0, 1, 2, 3 or 4; it is understood that when n is greater than 1, the group -(O) t -(AK1) q -(OC(O)-C(R a )(R b )-C(O)-R4) u Same or different;

[0356] -t represents an integer equal to 0 or 1;

[0357] -q represents an integer equal to 0 or 1;

[0358] -u represents an integer equal to 1, 2, or 3;

[0359] -v represents an integer equal to 1, 2, or 3;

[0360] It is understood that if q is equal to 0, then t is equal to 0, (m+n) is greater than or equal to 1, and the compound of formula (I) contains at least two groups -C(O)-C(R a )(R b )-C(O)-R4;

[0361] In addition to the following compounds:

[0362]

[0363]

[0364]

[0365] The present invention also provides at least one compound of formula (I), and also its optical or geometric isomers and / or its solvates (e.g. hydrates), and compositions, in particular cosmetic compositions, containing them, in particular for treating keratin fibers, in particular for caring for, styling and / or coloring keratin fibers, preferably hair, said compound(s) being selected from compounds (8), (9), (10), (11), (12), (13) and (14), and also its optical or geometric isomers and / or its solvates (e.g. hydrates):

[0366]

[0367]

[0368]

[0369]

[0370] Where W is a hydrogen atom or -C(O)-C(R a)(R b )-C(O)-R4, and the compound contains at least two groups -C(O)-C(R a )(R b )-C(O)-R4.

[0371] Another subject of the present invention is a compound of formula (I), and also its optical or geometric isomers and / or its solvates (for example hydrates), selected from the following compounds of formula (Ia), and also its optical or geometric isomers and / or its solvates, for example hydrates, and compositions comprising them, in particular cosmetic compositions, in particular for treating keratin fibers, in particular for caring for, shaping and / or coloring keratin fibers, preferably hair:

[0372] Z-(Y-AK2)3(Ia)

[0373] Formula (Ia):

[0374] -Z represents -CH2-CH-CH2-;

[0375] -AK2 independently represents a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, C 12 -C 24 A monovalent hydrocarbon-based chain, which is optionally substituted by one or more identical or different groups selected from -OR, -X-AK3-(OC(O)-C(R a )(R b )-C(O)-R4) v and / or the chain is optionally interrupted by one or more heteroatoms or groups selected from -O-, -S-, -C(O)-, epoxides and combinations thereof, in particular OC(O)- and -C(O)-O-;

[0376] -Y、AK3、v、R、X、R4、R a and R b As previously defined in formula (I); preferably, Y represents -OC(O);

[0377] It is understood that the compound contains at least two groups -C(O)-C(R a )(R b )-C(O)-R4;

[0378] In particular, except for compounds (1), (2), (3), (4) and (7) as defined previously.

[0379] According to a preferred embodiment, the compound(s) of formula (Ia) are in particular selected from compounds (8), (9), (11) and (16) as defined previously, and also their optical or geometric isomers and / or their solvates, such as hydrates.

[0380] According to a specific embodiment, the compound(s) of formula (Ia), and also the optical and geometric isomers thereof and / or solvates (eg hydrates) thereof, is the following compound:

[0381] a) At least one of the three groups AK2 represents a branched, saturated or unsaturated C 12 -C 24 A monovalent hydrocarbon-based chain, optionally substituted with one or more identical or different groups selected from the group consisting of -OR and -X-AK3-(OC(O)-C(R a )(R b )-C(O)-R4) v and / or the chain is optionally interrupted by one or more heteroatoms or groups selected from -O-, -S-, -C(O)-, (hetero)cycle(s), in particular epoxides, and combinations thereof, in particular -OC(O)- or -C(O)-O-; A-K, v, R, X, R4, R a and R b As previously defined; it is understood that the compound contains at least two groups C(O)-C(R a )(R b )-C(O)-R4; preferably Y represents -OC(O); preferably X represents S; preferably the three chains AK2 contain 15 to 21 carbon atoms, more preferably 17 carbon atoms; and preferably none of the three groups AK2 are interrupted; or

[0382] b) The three groups AK2 independently represent linear, saturated, C 12 -C 24 A hydrocarbon-based chain substituted with at least one group selected from -OH and OR' and optionally with one or more identical or different groups selected from -OC(O)-C(R a )(R b )-C(O)-R4 and -X'-AK3-(OC(O)-C(R a )(R b )-C(O)-R4) v R' represents a C2-C6 alkyl group, in particular an ethyl group; AK3, v, R, R4, R a and R b As previously defined, preferably, Y represents -OC(O)-; and X' represents -O- or -C(O)-O-; it is understood that the compound comprises at least two groups -C(O)-C(R a )(R b)-C(O)-R4; preferably, the three chains AK2 contain 15 to 21 carbon atoms, more preferably 17 carbon atoms; and preferably, none of the three groups AK2 are interrupted; or

[0383] c) Group AK2 independently represents a linear, saturated, C 12 -C 24 A monovalent hydrocarbon-based chain, which is optionally substituted by one or more identical or different groups selected from -OR and -X-AK3-(OC(O)-C(R a )(R b )-C(O)-R4) v The chain is substituted by one or more heteroatoms or groups selected from -O- and / or -S- and / or -C(O)-, (one or more) (hetero)cycles, in particular one or more epoxides and combinations thereof, preferably -OC(O)-, -C(O)-O- and -(hetero)cycle-O-(hetero)cycle-; AK3, v, R, X, R4, R a and R b As previously defined; and it will be understood that the compound contains at least two groups C(O)-C(R a )(R b )-C(O)-R4; preferably Y represents -OC(O)-; preferably X represents S; preferably, the three chains AK2 contain 15 to 21 carbon atoms, more preferably 17 carbon atoms; or

[0384] d) three groups AK2 such that at least one of the three groups AK2 represents a linear or branched, unsaturated, C 12 -C 24 a monovalent hydrocarbon-based chain, optionally substituted by one or more identical or different groups selected from -OR, said chain being optionally interrupted by one or more heteroatoms or groups selected from -O-, -S-, -C(O)-, (one or more) (hetero)cycles and combinations thereof, in particular -OC(O)-, -C(O)-O- or (hetero)cycle-O-(hetero)cycle; and at least one of the three radicals AK2 represents a linear or branched, saturated C 12 -C 24 A monovalent hydrocarbon-based chain, which is separated by one or more identical or different groups selected from -S-AK3-(OC(O)-C(R a )(R b )-C(O)-R4) v and optionally substituted by one or more identical or different groups selected from -OR; AK3, v, R, R4, R a and R bAs previously defined; preferably, Y represents -OC(O)-; it is understood that the compound comprises at least two groups -C(O)-C(R a )(R b )-C(O)-R4; preferably, Y represents -OC(O)-; preferably, X represents S; preferably, the three chains AK2 contain 15 to 21 carbon atoms, more preferably 17 carbon atoms; preferably, none of the three groups AK2 are interrupted; or

[0385] e) three groups AK2 such that AK2 represents a saturated linear monovalent C 12 -C 24 A hydrocarbon-based chain, which is separated by one or more identical or different groups selected from -S-AK3-(OC(O)-C(R a )(R b )-C(O)-R4) v The chain is optionally interrupted by one or more heteroatoms or groups selected from -O-, -S-, -C(O)-, (one or more) (hetero)cycles and combinations thereof, such as -OC(O)-, -C(O)-O-, (hetero)cycle-O-(hetero)cycle; AK3 represents a divalent, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C3-C 12 , preferably C3-C6, more preferably saturated C3-C6, especially C3 hydrocarbon-based chain; v, R4, R a and R b As previously defined; preferably, Y represents -OC(O)-; it is understood that the compound comprises at least two groups -C(O)-C(R a )(R b )-C(O)-R4; preferably, Y represents -OC(O)-; preferably, v is equal to 2; preferably, the three chains AK2 contain 15 to 21 carbon atoms, more preferably 17 carbon atoms; preferably, none of the three groups AK2 is interrupted; preferably, the group AK2 is saturated; preferably, AK3 represents a trivalent group -CH2-CH-CH2-;

[0386] or

[0387] f) The three groups AK2 represent groups which are replaced by one or more identical or different groups -OC(O)-AK3-(OC(O)-C(R a )(R b )-C(O)-R4) v Substituted straight chain, saturated C 12 -C 24 A monovalent hydrocarbon-based chain, optionally further substituted by one or more identical or different groups selected from -OR and -S-AK3-(OC(O)-C(R a )(Rb )-C(O)-R4) v and / or the chain is optionally interrupted by one or more heteroatoms or groups selected from -O-, -S-, -C(O)-, (one or more) (hetero)cycles and combinations thereof, in particular -OC(O)-, -C(O)-O- or -(hetero)cycle-O-(hetero)cycle-; AK3, v, R4, R a and R b As previously defined; preferably, Y represents -OC(O)-; it is understood that the compound contains at least two groups -C(O)-C(R a )(R b )-C(O)-R4; preferably, Y represents -OC(O)-; preferably, v is equal to 1 or 2, more preferably, v is equal to 1; preferably, the three chains AK2 contain 15 to 21 carbon atoms, more preferably 17 carbon atoms; preferably, none of the three groups AK2 is interrupted; preferably, the group AK2 is saturated; preferably, the group AK2 is replaced by at least one group -OR, preferably at least one group -OC(O)-C( a )(R b )-C(O)-R4; preferably, AK2 is not substituted with -S-AK3-(OC(O)-C(R a )(R b )-C(O)-R4) v Substituted; preferably, AK3 represents a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C1-C6, more preferably a saturated C1-C6, even more preferably a C2-based hydrocarbon chain

[0388] Another subject of the present invention is a compound of formula (I), and also its optical or geometric isomers and / or its solvates (for example hydrates), which is chosen from the following compounds of formula (Ib), and also its optical or geometric isomers and / or its solvates (for example hydrates) and compositions containing them, in particular cosmetic compositions, in particular for treating keratin fibers, in particular for caring for, styling and / or coloring keratin fibers, preferably hair:

[0389] m (AK2-Y)–Z–[(O) t -(AK1) q -(OC(O)-C(R a )(R b )-C(O)-R4) u ] n (Ib)

[0390] Formula (Ib):

[0391] -n+m is equal to 4, m is non-zero; m and n are as previously defined for the compound of formula (I);

[0392] -Z represents an unsubstituted and uninterrupted, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, preferably saturated and acyclic C2 to C 24 , especially C3 to C 10 , preferably a tetravalent hydrocarbon-based group of C3;

[0393] -AK2 independently represents a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, preferably saturated C 12 -C 24 , preferably C 16 -C 20 , preferably C 18 a monovalent hydrocarbon-based chain, said chain being optionally substituted by one or more identical or different groups selected from -OR and -X-AK3-(OC(O)-C(R a )(R b )-C(O)-R4) v substituted by one or more groups -X-AK3-(OC(O)-C(R a )(R b )-C(O)-R4) v substituted; and / or the chain is optionally interrupted by one or more heteroatoms or groups selected from -O-, -S-, -C(O)-, (one or more) (hetero)cycles and combinations thereof, in particular -OC(O)-, -C(O)-O- or -(hetero)cycle-O-(hetero)cycle-, and preferably is not interrupted;

[0394] -AK3 represents a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C1-C 12 , preferably C1-C6, more preferably saturated C1-C6, even more preferably C2-C4, preferably C3 divalent hydrocarbon-based chain;

[0395] - v is as defined previously; preferably, v is equal to 2;

[0396] -X is as defined above; preferably, X represents a sulfur atom;

[0397] -Y, AK1, t, q, u, R, R4, R a and R b As previously defined;

[0398] It is understood that the compound contains at least two groups -C(O)-C(R a )(R b )-C(O)-R4.

[0399] According to a preferred embodiment, m is equal to 3, n is equal to 1 and u is equal to 1.

[0400] According to a preferred embodiment, t is equal to 0 and q is equal to 0.

[0401] According to a preferred embodiment, Y represents -C(O)-O-.

[0402] According to a preferred embodiment, the group AK2 does not have an interruption. Preferably, the group AK2 is saturated. Preferably, the group AK2 is not substituted by -OR.

[0403] According to a preferred embodiment, AK3 represents a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C1-C6, more preferably saturated C1-C6, even more preferably C1-C4, still better still C3 hydrocarbon-based chain.

[0404] According to this embodiment variant, the compound of formula (I) or (Ib) is chosen in particular from compound (10) as defined previously, and also from optical or geometric isomers thereof and / or solvates thereof, such as hydrates.

[0405] Another subject of the present invention is a compound of formula (I) and also its optical or geometric isomers and / or its solvates (for example hydrates), which is chosen from the following compounds of formula (Ic) and also its optical or geometric isomers and / or its solvates (for example hydrates) and compositions containing them, in particular cosmetic compositions, in particular for treating keratin fibers, in particular for caring for, styling and / or coloring keratin fibers (preferably hair):

[0406] m (AK2-Y)-ZH-[(O)t-(AK1) q -(OC(O)-C(R a )(R b )-C(O)-R4) u ] n (Ic)

[0407] Formula (Ic):

[0408] -Z represents a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, preferably saturated and acyclic polyvalent C 14 to C 24 , especially C 16 to C 20 For example, C 17 The hydrocarbon-based group, Z is also optionally replaced by one or more groups -[(O) t- (AK1) q -(OC(O)-C(R a )(R b )-C(O)-R4) u ] nsubstituted, preferably unsubstituted;

[0409] -AK2 represents a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, preferably saturated C 14 -C 30 , preferably C 20 -C 29 a monovalent hydrocarbon-based chain, said chain being separated by one or more identical or different groups selected from -OR and -X-AK3-(OC(O)-C(R a )(R b )-C(O)-R4) v and / or the chain is optionally interrupted by one or more heteroatoms or groups selected from -O-, -S-, -C(O)-, (one or more) (hetero)cycles and combinations thereof, in particular -OC(O)-, -C(O)-O- or -(hetero)cycle-O-(hetero)cycle-, and is preferably interrupted by -OC(O)- or -C(O)-O-;

[0410] -X is as defined previously, and X preferably represents a sulfur atom;

[0411] -Y, AK1, AK3, n, m, v, t, q, u, R, R4, R a and R b As previously defined;

[0412] It is understood that the compound contains at least two groups -C(O)-C(R a )(R b )-C(O)-R4.

[0413] According to a preferred embodiment, n is equal to 0 and m is equal to 1.

[0414] According to a preferred embodiment, Z is a divalent radical.

[0415] According to a preferred embodiment, if Z is an unsaturated chain, AK2 is an unsaturated chain, and if Z is a saturated chain, AK2 is a saturated chain.

[0416] According to this embodiment variant, the compound(s) of formula (Ic), and also the optical or geometric isomers thereof and / or their solvates (eg hydrates) are in particular of formula (Iic) as defined previously.

[0417] According to this embodiment variant, the compound(s) of formula (Iic) are chosen in particular from compound (12) as defined previously, and also from optical or geometric isomers thereof and / or solvates thereof, such as hydrates.

[0418] According to a preferred embodiment, the treatment method according to the invention comprises applying to keratin fibers, preferably hair, at least one or more compounds of formula (I) and also their optical and geometric isomers and / or solvates (e.g. hydrates), or a composition comprising the same, chosen from the following compounds of formula (Id) and also their optical or geometric isomers and / or solvates (e.g. hydrates)

[0419] m (AK2-Y)-Z-[(O)t-(AK1) q -(OC(O)-C(R a )(R b )-C(O)-R4) u ] n (Id)

[0420] Wherein formula (Id):

[0421] - n + m is equal to 4, and preferably m is equal to 3;

[0422] -Z represents a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, preferably saturated or acyclic C2 to C 24 , especially C3 to C 10 , in particular a C4 or C5 tetravalent hydrocarbon-based group, Z is also replaced by one or more groups -[(O) t -(AK1) q -(OC(O)-C(R a )(R b )-C(O)-R4) u ] n substituted, n is preferably equal to 1;

[0423] -AK2 independently represents a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, preferably saturated C 14 -C 30 , preferably C 16 -C 24 , preferably C 17 a monovalent hydrocarbon-based chain, said chain being optionally substituted by one or more identical or different groups selected from -OR and -X-AK3-(OC(O)-C(R a )(R b )-C(O)-R4) vand / or the chain is optionally interrupted by one or more heteroatoms or groups selected from -O-, -S-, -C(O)-, (one or more) (hetero)cycles and combinations thereof, in particular -OC(O)-, -C(O)-O- or -(hetero)cycle-O-(hetero)cycle-, and preferably is not interrupted; X is as defined above, and preferably X represents a sulfur atom; Y, AK1, AK3, u, v, R, R4, R a and R b As previously defined,

[0424] It will be understood that these compounds contain at least two groups -C(O)-C(R a )(R b )-C(O)-R4.

[0425] According to a preferred embodiment, t is equal to 0 and u is equal to 1.

[0426] According to a preferred embodiment, all radicals AK2 are identical. Preferably, all radicals Y are identical.

[0427] According to a preferred embodiment, Y represents -OC(O)-.

[0428] According to this embodiment variant, the compound of formula (Id), and also the optical or geometrical isomers thereof and / or the solvates (eg hydrates) thereof, is in particular as defined previously for formula (Iid).

[0429] According to a preferred embodiment, the treatment method according to the invention comprises applying to keratin fibers, preferably hair, at least one or more compounds of formula (I) and also their optical and geometric isomers and / or solvates (e.g. hydrates) or compositions comprising the same, chosen from the following compounds of formula (Ie) and also their optical or geometric isomers and / or solvates (e.g. hydrates):

[0430] m (AK2-Y)-Z-[(O) t -(AK1) q -(OC(O)-C(R a )(R b )-C(O)-R4) u ] n (Ie)

[0431] Wherein formula (Ie):

[0432] - n + m is equal to 2, m is non-zero, and m is preferably equal to 2; n is as previously defined for the compound of formula (I); preferably, n is zero;

[0433] -Z represents a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, conjugated or non-conjugated, preferably non-conjugated, acyclic or cyclic, aromatic or non-aromatic, preferably non-aromatic, C2 to C 24 , especially C3 to C 12 A divalent hydrocarbon-based group, wherein the group Z is further substituted by one or more selected from -O-, -N(R a )-, -S-, -C(O)-, (one or more) (hetero) rings and combinations thereof; preferably, Z represents a divalent group -(CH2) g -(Heterocyclic)-O-(CH2) h -(Heterocycle)-(CH2) j , wherein h represents 0, 1 or 2, preferably 0 or 1, g and j independently represent an integer between 1 and 3, preferably 1; (heterocycle) represents a divalent heterocyclic group (i.e. a heterocycle), preferably a heterocycloalkyl group, more particularly a divalent 5- or 6-membered heterocycloalkyl group, in particular a divalent tetrahydrofuran group or a divalent tetrahydropyran group, the heterocycle being optionally substituted by one or more groups selected from -OR, in which R is as previously defined, and in particular -OH or -OC(O)-C(R a )(R b )-C(O)-R4;

[0434] -AK2 represents a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, preferably saturated C 14 -C 30 , preferably C 14 -C 24 , preferably C 17 a monovalent hydrocarbon-based chain, said chain being optionally substituted by one or more identical or different groups selected from -OR and -X-AK3-(OC(O)-C(R a )(R b )-C(O)-R4) v and / or the chain is optionally interrupted by one or more heteroatoms or groups selected from -O-, -S-, -C(O)-, (hetero)cycle and combinations thereof, in particular -OC(O)-, -C(O)-O- or -(hetero)cycle-O-(hetero)cycle-, preferably optionally interrupted by -OC(O)- or -C(O)-O-, and more preferably not interrupted

[0435] -X is as defined above; preferably, X represents a sulfur atom;

[0436] -Y, AK1, AK3, v, t, q, u, R, R4, R a and R b As previously defined;

[0437] It is understood that the compound contains at least two groups -C(O)-C(Ra )(R b )-C(O)-R4.

[0438] According to this embodiment variant, the compound of formula (Ie) and also the optical or geometric isomers thereof and / or the solvates (eg hydrates) thereof are in particular those of formula (Iie) as defined previously.

[0439] Another subject matter of the present invention are compounds of the formula (I) as described above and also salts, isomers and / or solvates (eg hydrates) thereof, other than compounds (1) to (7) as described above.

[0440] Another subject of the present invention is the compounds of the formulae (Ia), (Ib), (Ic), (Id) and (Ie) as described previously, and also the salts, isomers and / or solvates (e.g. hydrates) thereof, more particularly the compounds of the formulae (Iic), (Iid) and (Iie) as described previously.

[0441] In particular, another subject of the present invention are compounds (8), (9), (10), (11), (12), (13) and (14) as described previously, and also their salts, isomers and solvates.

[0442] Preparation of compounds of formula (I)

[0443] In particular, the compound(s) of formula (I) or (Ia), (Ib), (Ic), (Id), (Ie), (Iic), (Iid) or (Iie) can be prepared via the following reaction sequence:

[0444] Step 1

[0445] In the first step, under conditions known to those skilled in the art, a compound of formula (H) is reacted with p -Z(OH) m’ A preferably natural commercial polyol is reacted with m equivalents of a fatty derivative R'CO-AK'2, wherein m' is greater than or equal to m and m is as previously defined, to form an ester bond Y according to the following scheme:

[0446] (H) p -Z(OH) m’ +mR'CO-AK'2->(H) p -Z(OH) m’-m (YAK'2) m

[0447] Among them:

[0448] -Y represents -OC(O)-;

[0449] -R' represents in particular -OH or -Cl; preferably, R' represents -OH;

[0450] -AK'2 represents a straight chain or branched, unsaturated C1-C 40 , preferably C 14 -C 20 A hydrocarbon-based chain, which is optionally interrupted by one or more heteroatoms or groups selected from -O-, -S-, -C(O)-, (hetero)cycle(s) and combinations thereof, in particular -OC(O)-, -C(O)-O- or -(hetero)cycle-O-(hetero)cycle-, preferably interrupted by -O- or -S-, more preferably uninterrupted.

[0451] According to a preferred embodiment, m is equal to m'.

[0452] Polyol (H) p -Z(OH) m’ Can be cyclic or acyclic.

[0453] By cyclic polyols (H) p -Z(OH) m’ As examples of sucrose, there may be mentioned maltose, lactose, raffinose, sucrose, trehalose, melibiulose, melibiose, mannobiose, kojibiose, nigerose, isomaltose, rutinose, rutinulose, xylobiose or sorbitan.

[0454] As acyclic polyols (H) p -Z(OH) m’ As examples of ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, pentanediol, hexanediol, butanediol, glycerol, pentaerythritol, dipentaerythritol, trimethylolethane, mannitol or trimethylolpropane may be mentioned.

[0455] According to a preferred embodiment, the polyol (H) p -Z(OH) m’ is selected from glycerol, mannitol, sucrose, ethylene glycol, sorbitan or trimethylolpropane, and more preferably polyol (H) p -Z(OH) m’ Indicates glycerol.

[0456] The compounds R'CO-AK'2 are preferably unsaturated fatty acids containing from 15 to 36 carbon atoms, preferably from 15 to 24 carbon atoms. They may be monounsaturated or polyunsaturated.

[0457] The monounsaturated fatty acids are in particular chosen from palmitoleic acid, oleic acid, 9-eicosenoic acid, 11-eicosenoic acid, erucic acid and nervonic acid.

[0458] The polyunsaturated fatty acids are particularly selected from linoleic acid, α-linolenic acid, γ-linolenic acid, dihomo-γ-linolenic acid, arachidonic acid, eicosapentaenoic acid, docosahexaenoic acid, rumenic acid and the hydroxymonounsaturated fatty acids are particularly selected from 10-hydroxy-cis-12-octadecenoic acid, 10-hydroxy-trans-11-octadecenoic acid, 12-hydroxy-cis-9-octadecenoic acid, 13-hydroxy-cis-9-octadecenoic acid, ricinoleic acid, isoricinoleic acid and the polyunsaturated hydroxy fatty acids are particularly selected from densipolic acid, auricolic acid, dimorphecolic acid.

[0459] More preferably, the unsaturated fatty acid is selected from ricinoleic acid, oleic acid, palmitoleic acid, erucic acid and mixtures thereof.

[0460] Step 2

[0461] In a second step, all or some of the unsaturations of the group(s) AK'2 are converted a) via an epoxidation reaction to give an epoxide, for example the starting compound a1 as shown in the scheme described below, or b) via a thiol-ene reaction with a (poly)hydroxylated thiol or a thiol carrying an acid function(s) to give a derivative (IV), for example the compound b3 as shown in the scheme described below.

[0462] Thiol-ene reaction b) can be carried out using (poly)hydroxylated thiols such as those of the formula HS-(CH2) k The method is carried out with a linear hydroxylated thiol containing -OH, wherein k is an integer from 1 to 12, preferably from 1 to 6, such as 2-mercaptoethanol, 3-mercapto-1-propanol, 6-mercapto-1-hexanol, 4-mercapto-1-butanol, or a branched hydroxylated thiol such as preferably comprising 1 to 6 carbon atoms, such as 3-mercapto-3-methylbutanol, 3-mercapto-2-butanol, or a polyhydroxylated thiol such as preferably comprising 1 to 6 carbon atoms, such as 3-mercapto-1,2-propanediol HS-CH(OH)-CHOH.

[0463] The resulting compound (IV) is thus substituted by the group -S-AK3-(OH) v substituted, wherein if the thiol is hydroxylated, v is equal to 1, and if the thiol is polyhydroxylated, v is greater than 1, such as 2, AK3 and v are as previously defined for the compound of formula (I).

[0464] Step 3

[0465] In the third step, all or some of the epoxy groups of the compound of formula (III) are opened with a nucleophilic compound, in particular i) an alcohol, preferably C1-C4, such as methanol or ethanol, or even a polyol, to give compound (IIIi), for example compound b2 as shown in the scheme below, ii) a carboxylic acid, preferably C1-C6, for example lactic acid, pyruvic acid, benzoic acid, glycolic acid or 2,2-dihydroxymethylpropionic acid, more preferably a carboxylic acid substituted with at least one hydroxyl group, such as lactic acid, to give compound (IIIii), for example compound b1 as shown in the scheme below.

[0466] According to a preferred embodiment, the carboxylic acid ii) is selected from lactic acid, glycolic acid or 2,2-dimethylolpropionic acid (epoxide-acid reaction) and the reaction is carried out in the presence of a catalyst such as imidazole, 1-methylimidazole, N,N-dimethylbenzylamine or caffeine.

[0467] According to a preferred embodiment, the alcohol i) is selected from ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, pentanediol, hexanediol, butylene glycol, glycerol, pentaerythritol, dipentaerythritol, trimethylolethane and trimethylolpropane, more preferably butanediol or trimethylolethane.

[0468] Step 4

[0469] In the fourth step, all or some of the alcohol functions -OH of compound (IIIi) or (IIIii) and any remaining polyol (H) from the first step are p -Z(OH) m’ All or some of the alcohol functional groups are converted into the group -OC(O)-C(R a )(R b )-C(O)-R4, for example via an ester Gp-C(O)-C(R a )(R b )-C(O)-R4, wherein Gp preferably represents hydroxy or (C1-C4)alkoxy, such as methoxy, ethoxy, isobutoxy or tert-butoxy.

[0470] According to a preferred embodiment, Gp-C(O)-C(R a )(R b )-C(O)-R4 represents an ester selected from ethyl acetoacetate, ethyl 2-methylacetoacetate and tert-butyl acetoacetate, preferably tert-butyl acetoacetate.

[0471] Compounds of structures (Ia), (Ic), for example compounds of structure (Iic), and compounds of structures (Id) and (Ie) can be obtained according to this method.

[0472] For example, step 4 can be carried out according to the protocol described in Trevino, AS, and Trumbo, DL (2002). Acetoacetylated castor oil in coating applications. Progress in Organic Coatings, 44(1), 49-54:

[0473]

[0474] In some cases, the compound (H) obtained in the first step p -Z(OH) m ' -m (YAK'2) m are commercially available; in particular, certain compounds wherein m' is equal to m, p is equal to 0, and Z preferably represents -CH2-CH-CH2- are commercially available. When p is equal to 0 and m' is equal to m, the compound is an ester of an optionally hydroxylated unsaturated fatty acid, in particular a triglyceride of castor oil, soybean oil, rapeseed oil (canola) or linseed oil. The synthesis of compounds (Ia) to (Ie) then begins with the second step described above.

[0475] For example, starting from unsaturated triglycerides, (poly)hydroxythiols such as SH-(CH2) x The OH undergoes a thiol-ene reaction, wherein x is an integer, preferably 1 to 4, and then undergoes a transesterification reaction (e.g., Desroches, M., Caillol, S., Lapinte, V., Auvergne, R. and Boutevin, B. (2011). Synthesis of biobased polyols by thiol-ene coupling from vegetable oils. Macromolecules, 44(8), 2489–2500:

[0476]

[0477]

[0478] For example, starting from unsaturated triglycerides, a complete or partial epoxidation reaction is carried out, followed by opening of the epoxide(s) formed, which produces an alcohol function and (trans)esterification. Commercial epoxidized triglycerides, such as the products sold by Arkema under the trade names Vikoflex 7170 or Vikoflex 7190, can also be used as starting materials.

[0479] By way of example, the following reaction scheme can be used, in which all epoxides are opened with lactic acid and each hydroxyl group is then esterified with t-Bu-OCOCH2CH3 according to the following scheme:

[0480] a)

[0481]

[0482] b)

[0483]

[0484] For example, the following reaction scheme can also be used, in which all epoxides are opened with an alcohol (methanol in this example) and then each hydroxyl group is esterified with t-Bu-OCOCH2CH3:

[0485] a)

[0486]

[0487] b)

[0488]

[0489] Compounds of formula (Ia) to (Ie) can also be prepared via the following reaction sequence:

[0490] In a first step, a preferred natural commercial polyacid (H) is reacted under conditions known to a person skilled in the art according to the following scheme: p -Z(COOH) m Reaction with m equivalents of a fatty alcohol HO-AK'2, wherein m' is greater than or equal to m, and m is as previously defined, to form an ester bond Y:

[0491] (H) p -Z(COOH) m’ +mHO-AK'2->(H) p -Z(COOH) m’-m (YAK'2) m

[0492] wherein Y represents -C(O)-O-, and AK'2 represents a monovalent straight or branched unsaturated C1-C 40 , preferably C 14 -C 20 A hydrocarbon-based chain, which is optionally interrupted by one or more heteroatoms or groups selected from -O-, -S-, -C(O)-, (hetero)cycle(s) and combinations thereof, in particular -OC(O)-, -C(O)-O-, -(hetero)cycle-O-(hetero)cycle-, preferably interrupted by -O- or -S-, and more preferably uninterrupted.

[0493] According to a preferred embodiment, m is equal to m'.

[0494] Polyacid (H) p -Z(COOH) m’ Can be cyclic or acyclic.

[0495] The polyacid may preferably denote an optionally hydroxylated dicarboxylic acid, an optionally hydroxylated tricarboxylic acid or an optionally hydroxylated tetracarboxylic acid.

[0496] The non-hydroxylated dicarboxylic acids are in particular selected from maleic acid, malonic acid, succinic acid, pentanediol, adipic acid, sebacic acid, dodecanedioic acid, cyclopropanedicarboxylic acid, cyclohexanedicarboxylic acid, cyclobutanedicarboxylic acid, naphthalene-1,4-dicarboxylic acid, naphthalene-2,3-dicarboxylic acid, naphthalene-2,6-dicarboxylic acid, suberic acid, oxalic acid, malonic acid, succinic acid, phthalic acid, terephthalic acid, isophthalic acid, tetrahydrophthalic acid, hexahydrophthalic acid, pimelic acid, sebacic acid, azelaic acid, glutaric acid, adipic acid, fumaric acid and itaconic acid, preferably malonic acid, succinic acid and glutaric acid.

[0497] The hydroxylated dicarboxylic acids are in particular selected from tartaric acid, malic acid, aleuritic acid, 7,18-dihydroxytetracos-15-enoic acid and avenic acid, and preferably malic acid and tartaric acid.

[0498] The (hydroxy)tricarboxylic acids are in particular selected from 2-oxaloglutaric acid, oxalosuccinic acid, 3-carboxymethylmuconic acid, 2-methylcitric acid, citric acid, isocitric acid, aconitic acid, transaconitic acid, 1,2,3-propanetricarboxylic acid, 1,2,5-pentanetricarboxylic acid, 1,3,5-benzenetricarboxylic acid, 1,3,5-cyclohexanetricarboxylic acid, 3-butene-1,2,3-tricarboxylic acid, 3-butene-1,1,3-tricarboxylic acid, trimellitic acid, 1,2,3-benzenetricarboxylic acid, 1,3,5-benzenetricarboxylic acid and agaric acid, preferably citric acid and aconitic acid.

[0499] The tetracarboxylic acid is in particular selected from 1,2,3,4-butanetetracarboxylic acid, pyromellitic acid, oxydisuccinic acid, thiodisuccinic acid, N-[1,2-dicarboxyethyl]-L-aspartic acid, ethylenediaminetetraacetic acid, ethylenediaminetetrapropionic acid and N,N′-ethylenebis(L-aspartic acid).

[0500] According to a preferred embodiment, the fatty alcohol HO-AK'2 is chosen from fatty alcohols comprising from 15 to 36 carbon atoms, preferably from 15 to 24 carbon atoms.

[0501] The fatty alcohols HO-AK'2 may be monounsaturated or polyunsaturated (one or more olefinic double bonds are present).

[0502] The fatty alcohol HO-AK'2 may contain several alcohol functional groups.

[0503] The monounsaturated fatty alcohol is in particular selected from oleyl alcohol, docosanol or unsaturated fatty alcohol ethers, such as polyoxyethylene monooleyl ether, preferably oleyl alcohol. The unsaturated monounsaturated fatty alcohol containing several alcohol functions is in particular selected from 9-octadecene-1,12-diol.

[0504] The polyunsaturated fatty alcohols are especially chosen from linoleic alcohol, 2,4-dodecadien-1-ol and dolichol (where n is greater than or equal to 3 and less than or equal to 5).

[0505] According to a preferred embodiment, the fatty alcohol HO-AK'2 is selected from oleyl alcohol, linoleyl alcohol or a mixture thereof.

[0506] The following steps are the same as above:

[0507] In a second step, all or some of the (mono- or poly-)unsaturated(s) radical(s) AK'2 are a) converted via an epoxidation reaction to give an epoxide derivative (III'), for example compound a4 as shown in the scheme below, or b) converted via a thiol-ene reaction with a (poly)hydroxylated thiol or a thiol carrying an acid function(s), into a derivative (IV'), for example compound b5 as shown in the scheme below.

[0508] - In the third step, all or some of the epoxy groups of the compound of formula (III') are opened with a nucleophilic compound, such as i) preferably a C1-C4 alcohol, such as methanol or ethanol or even a polyol, to produce compound (III'i), such as compound b4 shown in the scheme below, ii) a carboxylic acid, preferably C1-C6, such as lactic acid, pyruvic acid or benzoic acid, more preferably a carboxylic acid substituted with at least one hydroxyl group, such as lactic acid, to produce compound (III'ii), such as compound b6 shown in the scheme below.

[0509] In the fourth step, all or some of the alcohol functions -OH of compound (III'i) or (III'ii) and any polyol (H) still present and derived from the polyol used in the first step are reacted with p -Z(OH) m’All or some of the alcohol functional groups are converted into the group -OC(O)-C(R a )(R b )-C(O)-R4, for example via an ester Gp-C(O)-C(R a )(R b )-C(O)-R4 (wherein Gp preferably represents a hindered alkoxy group such as tBu-O-) to obtain the corresponding compound of formula (I).

[0510] Compounds of formula (Ia) to (Ie) wherein p is 1, Y represents -C(O)-O-, and m is 1 can also be prepared from unsaturated fatty acids such as oleic acid by combining the aforementioned steps 2, 3, and 4, as described in "The synthesis of bio-based Michael donors from tall oil fatty acids for polymer development", Polymers, 2022, 14, 4107. For example, the following reaction scheme can be used, in which all epoxides are opened with methanol and each hydroxyl group is then esterified with t-Bu-OCOCH2CH3:

[0511]

[0512] For example, the following reaction scheme can be used, wherein an unsaturated oil is reacted with a (poly)hydroxy thiol such as SH-(CH2) x OH reaction, where x is an integer, preferably 1 to 4, followed by a transesterification reaction (as described in Desroches, M., Caillol, S., Lapinte, V., Auvergne, R. and Boutevin, B. (2011). Synthesis of biobased polyols by thiol-ene coupling from vegetable oils. Macromolecules, 44(8), 2489–2500).

[0513]

[0514] For example, the following reaction scheme can be used, in which all epoxides are opened with lactic acid and then each hydroxyl group is esterified with t-Bu-OCOCH2CH3:

[0515]

[0516] Crosslinking agent ii)

[0517] According to a particular embodiment, the treatment method according to the invention as previously described comprises applying to keratin fibres, preferably hair, (i) at least one compound of formula (I) as previously defined, and (ii) at least one crosslinking agent.

[0518] For the purposes of the present invention, the term "crosslinker" (also referred to as "R") denotes a compound capable of establishing with at least one acetoacetate function of the compound(s) of formula (I) used in the treatment method according to the invention:

[0519] - at least one covalent bond,

[0520] - at least one donor-acceptor (dative) bond, and / or

[0521] - at least one coordinate bond,

[0522] and thus crosslinking the compound or compounds.

[0523] Preferably, the term "crosslinker", also referred to as "R", means a compound capable of establishing at least one covalent bond with the acetoacetate function of the compound(s) of formula (I) used in the treatment method according to the invention and thus crosslinking the compound or compounds.

[0524] For the purposes of the present invention, the terms "crosslinking agent" and "crosslinker" are understood to be equivalent.

[0525] The compositions "C2", "C3" and "C4" as defined above comprise at least ii) a crosslinking agent. The composition of the invention may comprise a fatty phase, an aqueous phase or may be in the form of a direct or inverse emulsion. Composition "C4" may be an aqueous composition.

[0526] According to one aspect, the treatment method of the invention uses a composition referred to as "C3", in particular a cosmetic composition for treating keratin fibers, in particular for caring for, styling and / or coloring keratin fibers (preferably hair), i) at least one compound of formula (I), as defined above and below, ii) at least one crosslinking agent, in particular as defined above and below, and optionally iii) at least one cosmetic active agent, in particular as defined above and below.

[0527] The crosslinker(s) ii) are preferably present in a mass content of 0.2% to 60% by weight, particularly 0.5% to 40% by weight, more particularly 1% to 35% by weight and even more particularly 1% to 30% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition containing them.

[0528] In particular, in the composition "C2" or "C3", the crosslinker(s) ii) and the compound(s) i) as previously defined are preferably present in a mass content of 1% to 35% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition in which they are contained.

[0529] When the treatment method involves several steps including the step of using one or more compounds of formula (I) or (Ia), (Ib), (Ic), (Id), (Ie), (Iic), (Iid) and / or (Iie) without a cross-linking agent, the compound(s) of formula (I), (Ia), (Ib), (Ic), (Id), (Ie), (Iic), (Iid) or (Iie) may be used alone (neat) or in the composition "C1" as previously defined.

[0530] More precisely, the crosslinker(s) ii) suitable for use in the present invention may be chosen from compounds carrying amine, thiol, acrylate and / or carbonyl functions, such as ketone or aldehyde functions. The crosslinker R may also represent a metal alkoxide or a metal salt or a rare earth metal derivative.

[0531] Therefore, according to a specific embodiment, the crosslinker ii) is selected from (poly)amines, (poly)thiols, (poly)carbonyls, (poly)acrylates, metal alkoxides and metal (poly)(hydroxy)(C1-C6)alkylcarboxylates and / or rare earth metal derivatives and mixtures thereof, and is preferably selected from (poly)amines, (poly)carbonyls, (poly)acrylates and metal alkoxide compounds and mixtures thereof.

[0532] The terms "(poly)amine, (poly)thiol, (poly)carbonyl and (poly)acrylate compounds" are intended to mean compounds comprising at least one primary or secondary amine, thiol, carbonyl (e.g. ketone or aldehyde functional group) or acrylate functional group, respectively.

[0533] The metal alkoxide compounds, metal (poly)(hydroxy)(C1-C6)alkylcarboxylates and rare earth metal derivatives are defined as follows.

[0534] A) (Poly)amine compounds

[0535] According to a preferred embodiment, the crosslinking agent R is selected from (poly)amine compounds.

[0536] The (poly)amine compound may be chosen in particular from polyamine compounds or aminoalkoxysilanes carrying several primary and / or secondary amino groups, and more particularly from aminoalkoxysilane compounds, diamine compounds, triamine compounds and mixtures thereof.

[0537] The (poly)amine compounds may be compounds, in particular non-polymeric compounds, containing from 2 to 20 carbon atoms; they may be acyclic or cyclic, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, conjugated or non-conjugated, aromatic or non-aromatic, optionally interrupted by one or more heteroatoms or groups selected from O, S, Si(R')2, N(R"), preferably O, Si(R')2 or combinations thereof, such as -Si(R')2-O- or -O-Si(R')2-, where R' may be identical or different and represents a (C1-C4)alkyl group, such as a methyl group, and R" represents a hydrogen atom or a (C1-C4)alkyl group, preferably a hydrogen atom.

[0538] The term "non-polymeric compound" means a compound that is not directly obtained through polymerization of monomers.

[0539] (Poly)amine compounds that may be mentioned in particular include N-methyl-1,3-diaminopropane, N-propyl-1,3-diaminopropane, N-isopropyl-1,3-diaminopropane, N-cyclohexyl-1,3-diaminopropane, 2-(3-aminopropylamino)ethanol, 3-(2-aminoethyl)aminopropylamine, bis(3-aminopropyl)amine, methylbis(3-aminopropyl)amine, N-(3-aminopropyl)-1,4-diaminobutane, N,N-dimethyldipropylenetriamine, 1,2-bis( 3-aminopropylamino)ethane, N,N'-bis(3-aminopropyl)-1,3-propylenediamine, ethylenediamine, 1,3-propylenediamine, 1,4-butanediamine, lysine, cystamine, xylenediamine, tris(2-aminoethyl)amine, 1,3-bis(aminomethyl)cyclohexane, 1,4-bis(aminomethyl)cyclohexane, diaminopropanol, 4,7,10-trioxa-1,13-tridecanediamine, spermidine and C36-alkylenediamine (Priamine, respectively). TM 1071, 1073, 1074, 1075), preferably spermidine and / or 4,7,10-trioxa-1,13-tridecanediamine.

[0540] According to a particular embodiment of the present invention, the (poly)amine compounds are monoamine compounds, ie they contain only one primary and / or secondary amino group, preferably a primary amino group (NH2).

[0541] The (one or more) (poly)amine compounds may be selected from aminoalkoxysilanes, in particular those of the formula R'1Si(OR'2) z (R'3) x ,in:

[0542] - R'1 is a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, cyclic or acyclic C1-C6 hydrocarbon-based chain, which is substituted by a radical chosen from a primary amino group NH2 or a secondary amino group -N(H)R, in which R represents a C1-C4 alkyl group, an aryl group or a benzyl group substituted by an amino group or by a C1-C4 aminoalkyl group; R'1 may be interrupted in its chain by heteroatoms (O, S, NH) or carbonyl groups (CO), R'1 being directly linked to the silicon atom via a carbon atom,

[0543] - R'2 and R'3, which may be the same or different, represent a linear or branched (C1-C6) alkyl group,

[0544] -z represents an integer ranging from 1 to 3, and

[0545] -x represents an integer from 0 to 2,

[0546] Where z+x=3.

[0547] In particular, R'1 is a non-cyclic chain. Preferably, R'1 is a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C1-C6 hydrocarbon-based chain substituted with an amine -NH2 or -N(H)R group, wherein R represents a C1-C6 alkyl, C3-C6 cycloalkyl or C6 aromatic group. More preferably, R'1 is a saturated linear C1-C6 hydrocarbon-based chain substituted with an amine NH2. Even more preferably, R'1 is a saturated linear C2-C4 hydrocarbon-based chain substituted with an amine NH2.

[0548] In particular, R'2 represents an alkyl group containing 1 to 4 carbon atoms; preferably, R'2 represents a linear alkyl group containing 1 to 4 carbon atoms, and more preferably, R'2 represents an ethyl group.

[0549] In particular, R'3 represents an alkyl group containing 1 to 4 carbon atoms; preferably, R'3 represents a linear alkyl group containing 1 to 4 carbon atoms, and more preferably, R'3 represents a methyl group or an ethyl group. Preferably, z is equal to 3.

[0550] In particular, the (poly)amine compound(s) are chosen from aminoalkoxysilanes comprising only one primary and / or secondary amine group, preferably a primary (NH2)amine group, such as 3-aminopropyltriethoxysilane (APTES), 3-aminoethyltriethoxysilane (AETES), 3-aminopropylmethyldiethoxysilane, N-(2-aminoethyl)-3-aminopropyltriethoxysilane, 3-(m-aminophenoxy)propyltrimethoxysilane, p-aminophenyltrimethoxysilane and N-(2-aminoethylaminomethyl)phenethyltrimethoxysilane.

[0551] Preferably, the (poly)amine compound(s) are chosen from 3-aminopropyltriethoxysilane (APTES), 3-aminoethyltriethoxysilane (AETES), 3-aminopropylmethyldiethoxysilane and N-(2-aminoethyl)-3-aminopropyltriethoxysilane, and more preferably 3-aminopropyltriethoxysilane (APTES), in particular the product sold by SigmaAldrich.

[0552] The (poly)amine compounds may also be selected from amino polymers, in particular having a range from 500 g.mol -1 to 1,000,000 g.mol -1 , preferably ranging from 500 g.mol -1 to 500,000 g.mol -1 , and preferably ranges from 500 g.mol -1 to 100,000 g.mol -1 The weight average molecular weight of .

[0553] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the (poly)amine compound is a monoamine compound and is chosen especially from polydialkylsiloxanes of formula (IV):

[0554] H2N-ALK-Si(R'2)(R'3)-O-[Si(R'2)(R'3)-O] n -Si(R'2)(R'3)-R'4(IV)

[0555] Formula (IV):

[0556] -Alk represents a (C1-C4)alkylene group, which is linear or branched, preferably linear, such as propylene,

[0557] - R'2 and R'3 may be the same or different, preferably the same, and represent (C1-C4)alkyl, such as methyl, and

[0558] -R'4 represents a linear or branched (C1-C6) alkyl group, preferably C4, such as n-butyl, n represents an integer greater than or equal to 2, preferably, the value of n is such that the weight average molecular weight of the polydimethylsiloxane is between 500 and 3000 g.mol -1 As examples of polydimethylsiloxanes (V), mention may be made of the products sold under the names MCR-A11 and MCR-A12 by the company Gelest.

[0559] According to a particular embodiment of the present invention, the (poly)amine compounds are diamine compounds, ie they contain two primary and / or secondary amino groups, preferably primary amino groups (NH2).

[0560] More specifically, they are chosen from compounds of formula (V) or (VI):

[0561] ALK[(O-ALK') m -NH2]2(V)

[0562] or

[0563] H2N-ALK-Si(R')2-[O-Si(R')2] m -O-Si(R)2-ALK'-NH2(VI)

[0564] Wherein formula (V) and (VI):

[0565] -ALK and ALK', which may be the same or different, represent a linear or branched (C1-C6) alkylene group, preferably a linear group such as propylene,

[0566] -R', which may be the same or different, represents a (C1-C4)alkyl group, for example a methyl group,

[0567] -m represents an integer greater than or equal to 0; preferably, the value of m is such that the weight average molecular weight of compound (V) or (VI) is in the range of 500 g.mol -1 to 55000 g.mol -1 .

[0568] As examples of compounds of formula (VI), mention may be made of those sold under the names DMS-A11, DMS-A12, DMS-A15, DMS-A21, DMS-A31, DMS-A32 and DMS-A35 by the company Gelest.

[0569] A (poly)amine compound which is a diamine, in particular a polyether diamine, in particular of the formula H2N-ALK-O-[ALK'-O] m -ALK"-NH2, where ALK, ALK' and ALK", which may be identical or different, represent a linear or branched (C1-C6)alkylene radical, and m represents an integer greater than or equal to 0, for example 4,7,10-trioxa-1,13-tridecanediamine or the compound known under the reference Jeffamine from the company Huntsman, and more particularly α,ω-diaminopolyethylene glycol and / or polypropylene glycol (having an amine function at the end of the chain), for example the products sold under the names Jeffamine D-230, D-400, D-2000, D-4000, ED-600, ED-9000 and ED-2003.

[0570] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the (poly)amine compound(s) are triamine compounds, i.e. they contain three primary and / or secondary amino groups, preferably primary amino groups (NH2). More particularly, they are chosen from polyethertriamines, in particular of the formula ALK"'[(O-ALK') m -NH2]3 wherein ALK', as previously defined and ALK'" represents a linear or branched trivalent (C1-C6) alkylene group, and m represents an integer greater than or equal to 0.

[0571] As (poly)amine compounds which are triamine compounds, mention may in particular be made of polyethertriamines, and in particular α,ω-diaminopolyethylene glycol and / or polypropylene glycol (having amine functions at the ends of the chain), such as the product sold under the name Jeffamine T-403.

[0572] According to another embodiment of the present invention, the (poly)amine compound(s) comprises more than three primary and / or secondary amine groups, preferably primary amine groups (NH2).

[0573] In this variant, the (poly)amine compound(s) are selected from poly(meth)acrylates or poly(meth)acrylamides with pendant primary or secondary amine functional groups, such as poly(3-aminopropyl)methacrylamide and poly(2-aminoethyl)methacrylate.

[0574] Preferably, the (poly)amine compound is selected from chitosan (especially poly(D-glucosamine)) and polydimethylsiloxanes comprising primary amine groups at the chain ends and / or in the side chains.

[0575] According to this variant, the (poly)amine compound(s) are chosen in particular from poly((C2-C5)alkyleneimines), and preferably polyethyleneimines and polypropyleneimines, especially poly(ethyleneimines), especially the products sold under the reference number 408700 by the company Aldrich Chemical or under the trade name Lupasol by BASF, especially having a molecular weight of 1200 to 25000; poly(allylamine), especially the products sold under the reference number 479136 by the company Aldrich Chemical; polyvinylamine and its copolymers, especially copolymers with vinylamide, especially vinylamine / vinylformamide copolymers, for example sold by the company BASF under the name 9030; polyamino acids containing NH2 groups, such as polylysine, in particular the products sold by the company JNC Corporation (formerly Chisso); aminodextran, in particular the products sold by the company CarboMer Inc; aminopolyvinyl alcohol, in particular the products sold by the company CarboMer Inc; copolymers based on acrylamido(C1-C6)alkylamines, in particular copolymers based on acrylamidopropylamine; and poly(D-glucosamine), for example the product sold by the company Kytozyme under the reference number Kyonutrime For sale.

[0576] According to a specific embodiment, the polydimethylsiloxane comprising primary amino groups at the chain ends and / or on the side chains is chosen from the compounds of the following formula (VII):

[0577] R a -Si(R b )(R c )-O-[Si(R b )(R c )-O] m -[Si(ALK 1 -NH2)(R a )-O] n -Si(R b )(R c )-R a (VII)

[0578] Formula (VII):

[0579] R a may be the same or different, representing a hydroxyl group or a (C1-C4) alkyl group,

[0580] -R b and R c , which may be the same or different, preferably the same, represent (C1-C4)alkyl, such as methyl,

[0581] -ALK 1 represents a straight-chain or branched (C1-C6)alkylene group, which is optionally interrupted by an N(H) group,

[0582] - m and n are integers greater than or equal to 1; preferably, m and n are such that the weight average molecular weight of the compound of formula (VII) is in the range of 1000 g.mol -1 to 500,000 g.mol -1 .

[0583] According to a preferred variant, formula (VII) is such that R a 、R b and R cIndicates methyl, ALK 1 represents propylene, n and m make the weight average molecular weight of polydimethylsiloxane in the range of 1000 g.mol -1 to 55000 g.mol -1 .

[0584] As examples of polydimethylsiloxanes of formula (VI), mention may be made of those sold under the names AMS-132, AMS-152, AMS-162, AMS-163, AMS-191 and AMS-1203 by the company Gelest.

[0585] According to another variant, formula (VII) is such that R a represents a hydroxyl group or a (C1-C4) alkyl group, such as a methyl group, ALK 1 represents a (C5-C6)alkylene group substituted by an NH group; preferably, ALK 1 represents -(CH2)3-N(H)-(CH2)2-, and m and n are such that the weight average molecular weight of the compound of formula (VI) is in the range of 5000 g.mol -1 to 500,000 g.mol -1 .

[0586] As amine polymers, mention may also be made of α,ω-diaminopolytetrahydrofuran (or polytetramethylene glycol) and α,ω-diaminopolybutadiene.

[0587] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the (poly)amine compound is selected from hyperbranched polymers comprising at least one amino group and dendrimers carrying at least one amino group, such as PAMAM polyamidoamine dendrimers having an ethylenediamine core and terminal amine functional groups.

[0588] According to a preferred embodiment, the composition comprises a crosslinker R chosen from (poly)amine compounds, in particular from chitosan, aminoalkoxysilanes, polydimethylsiloxanes comprising primary amine groups at the ends of the chain or on side chains, amodimethicone, polyglucosamine, spermidine and mixtures thereof.

[0589] More preferably, the composition comprises a crosslinker chosen from chitosan, aminoalkoxysilanes and polydialkylsiloxanes comprising primary amine groups at the ends of the chain or on the side chains, such as amodimethicone, and even more preferably chosen from poly(D-glucosamine), 3-aminopropyltriethoxysilane (APTES), 3-aminoethyltriethoxysilane (AETES), 3-aminopropylmethyldiethoxysilane, N-(2-aminoethyl)-3-aminopropyltriethoxysilane, spermidine and polydimethylsiloxanes comprising a terminal amino group at the end of the chain, such as bis-cetearyl amodimethicone.

[0590] B) (Poly)thiol compounds

[0591] According to a preferred embodiment, the crosslinking agent R is chosen from (poly)thiol compounds, also called "(poly)mercapto" compounds.

[0592] The (poly)thiol compound may in particular be organic or inorganic, preferably organic.

[0593] In a preferred embodiment, the (poly)thiol compound is silicon-based, ie it comprises one or more thiol groups and it also comprises at least one siloxane chain.

[0594] In a specific embodiment, the (poly)thiol compound is inorganic. Mention may be made, for example, of polythiol silicones.

[0595] The (poly)thiol compound may in particular be chosen from non-polymeric (poly)thiol compounds.

[0596] For the purposes of the present invention, the term "non-polymeric compound" means a compound which is not obtained directly via polymerization of monomers.

[0597] According to one embodiment of the present invention, the (poly)thiol compound(s) are organic, non-polymeric and have the following formula (VIII) and also solvates thereof, such as hydrates:

[0598] L(SH) q (VIII)

[0599] In formula (VIII):

[0600] - q represents an integer greater than or equal to 2; preferably, q is between 2 and 10 (inclusive), and more preferably between 2 and 5;

[0601] -L represents a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, or (hetero)cyclic, saturated or unsaturated, polyvalent (at least divalent) group, in particular comprising 1 to 500 carbon and / or silicon atoms, more in particular 2 to 40 carbon and / or silicon atoms, even more in particular 3 to 30 carbon and / or silicon atoms, preferably 6 to 20 carbon atoms; L is optionally interrupted and / or terminated by one or more heteroatoms or groups selected from O, S, N, Si, C(X) and combinations thereof, for example -O-, -OC(X)-, -N(R)-C(X)-, -Si(R c )(R d )-O-, wherein R represents a hydrogen atom or a (C1-C6) alkyl group, such as a methyl group; and / or L is optionally substituted by one or more groups selected from the group consisting of: -N(R a )R b and -(X') a -C(X)-(X”) b -R a Wherein X, X' and X" may be the same or different and represent an oxygen or sulfur atom, or a group N(R b ); a and b are 0 or 1, preferably the sum of a + b is 1; R a and R b , which may be the same or different, represent a hydrogen atom or a (C1-C6)alkyl or aryl (C1-C4)alkyl group, such as a benzyl group, preferably R a and R b represents a hydrogen atom; and R c and R d They may be the same or different and represent (C1-C6)alkyl, aryl(C1-C4)alkyl or (C1-C6)alkoxy.

[0602] According to a particular embodiment of the present invention, the (poly)thiol compound(s) are chosen from polythiol compounds, in particular polythiol compounds comprising from 2 to 20 carbon atoms.

[0603] According to a preferred embodiment, the (one or more) (poly)thiol compounds are non-polymeric and in particular are of formula (VIII) as defined above, wherein q is an integer greater than or equal to 2, preferably q is an integer between 2 and 10 (inclusive), and preferably 2 and 5.

[0604] The (poly)thiol compound suitable for use in the present invention is preferably a dithiol compound.

[0605] Preferably, L represents C8-C 18 Preferably, the fat-soluble polythiol is a linear C8-C 18 Preferably, the C8-C 18The chain is a hydrocarbon-based chain, i.e. formed of carbon and hydrogen. In particular, fat-soluble polythiols are linear C8-C 16 , and especially C 10 -C 14 Dithiols. More specifically, the (poly)thiol compounds of formula (VII) include 1,8-octanedithiol, 1,10-decanedithiol, 1,12-dodecandithiol, 1,14-tetradecandithiol, 1,16-hexadecanedithiol, and 1,18-octadecandithiol. Preferably, 1,10-decanedithiol, 1,12-dodecandithiol, or 1,14-tetradecandithiol is used, preferably 1,12-dodecandithiol.

[0606] According to another particular embodiment of the present invention, the (poly)thiol compound(s) are chosen from thiolated alkoxysiloxanes, such as those of the following formula (VIII'):

[0607] R'1-Si(OR'2)z(R'3) x (VIII')

[0608] In formula (VIII'):

[0609] -R'1 is a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, cyclic or acyclic C1-C substituted by one or more groups selected from thiol groups 12 a hydrocarbon-based chain; and an aryl, aryloxy, arylthio, arylamino group, the aryl group being substituted by one or more thiol groups or thio (C1-C6) alkyl groups, preferably thio (C1-C6) alkyl groups; and R'1 is optionally interrupted in its hydrocarbon-based chain by one or more heteroatoms such as O, S, N, carbonyl C(O) or combinations thereof such as ester -C(O)-O- or amide -C(O)-N(H)-, R'1 being directly bonded to the silicon atom via a carbon atom,

[0610] - R'2 and R'3, which may be the same or different, represent a linear or branched alkyl group containing 1 to 6 carbon atoms, preferably 1 to 4 carbon atoms, such as methyl,

[0611] -z represents an integer ranging from 1 to 3, and

[0612] -x represents an integer ranging from 0 to 2,

[0613] Where z+x=3.

[0614] Preferably, R'2 represents a linear or branched, preferably linear, alkyl group containing 1 to 4 carbon atoms, such as ethyl.

[0615] Preferably, R'3 represents a linear or branched, preferably linear, alkyl group containing 1 to 4 carbon atoms, such as a methyl or ethyl group.

[0616] Preferably, R'1 is an acyclic chain, in particular R'1 is a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, preferably saturated C1-C6 hydrocarbon-based chain, substituted with one or more thiol groups, preferably with one thiol group.

[0617] Preferably, R'1 is a saturated linear C1-C6 hydrocarbon-based chain substituted with a thiol group, and R'2 represents an alkyl group containing 1 to 4 carbon atoms.

[0618] Preferably, R'3 represents an alkyl group containing 1 to 4 carbon atoms.

[0619] Preferably, z is equal to 3.

[0620] According to a more particular embodiment of the invention, the thiolated alkoxysiloxanes are chosen from those of the following formula (IX):

[0621] (R 1 O)(R 2 )(R 3 )Si-[CH(R 4 )] t -[N(R' 4 )-L 1 ] p -SH (IX)

[0622] In formula (IX):

[0623] -p is 0 or 1;

[0624] -t is an integer between 1 and 4, preferably 2;

[0625] -R 1 represents a (C1-C6)alkyl group;

[0626] -R 2 and R 3 which may be the same or different, preferably the same, and are selected from (C1-C6)alkyl, in particular C1-C4alkyl, such as methyl, and (C1-C6)alkoxy, in particular (C1-C4)alkoxy, such as methoxy;

[0627] -R 4 and R' 4 may be the same or different and represent a hydrogen atom or a (C1-C6)alkyl group, such as a methyl group;

[0628] -L 1 represents a divalent, saturated, straight-chain or branched C1-C 20 Hydrocarbon-based groups.

[0629] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the thiolated alkoxysiloxanes are chosen from those of the following formula (IX'):

[0630] (R' 1 O)(R' 2 )(R' 3 )Si-CH(R 4 )-CH(R 5 )-(L 2 ) q -SH (IX')

[0631] In formula (IX'):

[0632] -q is equal to 0 or 1;

[0633] -X represents an oxygen or sulfur atom, preferably a sulfur atom;

[0634] -R' 1 represents a (C1-C6)alkyl group;

[0635] -R' 2 and R' 3 may be the same or different, preferably the same, and are selected from (C1-C6)alkoxy, in particular C1-C4alkoxy and (C1-C6)alkyl;

[0636] -R 5 represents a hydrogen atom or a C1-C4 alkyl group which is optionally substituted by an amino group, a thiol group or a hydroxyl group;

[0637] -R 4 represents a hydrogen atom or a C1-C4 alkyl group, in particular a methyl group;

[0638] -L 2 Indicates straight or branched chain, saturated, C1-C 20 A divalent hydrocarbon-based group, optionally interrupted by a heteroatom such as -N(H)-, and / or optionally substituted by one or more hydroxyl, thiol or amino groups.

[0639] Preferably, the thiolated alkoxysilane(s) are selected from 4-(trimethoxysilyl)-1-butanol, 3-(trimethoxysilyl)-1-propanol, 3-(triethoxysilyl)-1-propanol, 11-(trimethoxysilyl)-1-undecanethiol, 4-(trimethoxysilyl)-2-butanethiol, 2-(triethoxysilyl)ethanethiol, 3-(triethoxysilyl)-1-propanethiol, 2-(trimethoxysilyl)ethanethiol, 3-(trimethoxysilyl)-1-propanethiol and 3-(dimethoxymethylsilyl)-1-propanethiol.

[0640] More preferably, the thiolated alkoxysilane(s) are selected from 2-(triethoxysilyl)ethanethiol (18236-15-2) and 3-(triethoxysilyl)-1-propanethiol (14814-09-6).

[0641] According to a preferred embodiment of the present invention, the (poly)thiol compound(s) are selected from polymeric (poly)thiol compounds.

[0642] Polymeric (poly)thiol compounds may be star-shaped, comb-shaped, brush-shaped or dendritic homopolymers or copolymers carrying thiol units. These polymers may be of natural origin, such as polysaccharides or polypeptides, or of synthetic origin, such as acrylic polymers, polyesters or polyglycols. The thiol units may be present as terminal and / or pendant groups.

[0643] Examples that may be mentioned include the polymers described in the following articles: Polymers containing groups of biological activity, CG Overberger et al., Polytechnic Institute of Brooklyn, http: / / pac.iupac.org / publications / pac / pdf / 1962 / pdf / 0402x0521.pdf; EP 1 247 515 A2; US 3 676 440; and EP 1 572 778.

[0644] The polymeric (poly)thiol compound of the present invention is preferably an organic and / or silicone compound, more preferably a formula (X):

[0645] POLY(SH) q (X)

[0646] In formula (X):

[0647] -q is greater than or equal to 2, preferably greater than or equal to 3;

[0648] -POLY represents a polymer-based group, preferably carbon-based or silicon-based; POLY is optionally interrupted by one or more heteroatoms or groups selected from O, S, N, Si, C(X) and combinations thereof, for example -O-, -OC(X)-, -N(R)-C(X)-, -Si(R c )(R d )-O-, wherein R represents a hydrogen atom or a (C1-C6)alkyl group, such as a methyl group; and / or POLY is optionally replaced by one or more halogen atoms or a group selected from R a (R b )N- and -(X') a -C(X)-(X”)b -R a X, X' and X", which may be the same or different, represent an oxygen or sulfur atom or a group N (R b ); a and b are 0 or 1, preferably the sum of a + b is 1; R a and R b , which may be the same or different, represent a hydrogen atom or (C1-C 10 )alkyl or aryl (C1-C4)alkyl such as benzyl, preferably R a and R b represents a hydrogen atom; and R c and R d , which may be the same or different, represent (C1-C 10 )alkyl, aryl (C1-C4)alkyl or (C1-C 10 )alkoxy.

[0649] Methods for preparing the polymeric (poly)thiol compounds used according to the invention are known to those skilled in the art; several methods are reported below in a non-limiting manner. The polymeric (poly)thiol compounds used according to the invention can be obtained by polymerization or polycondensation of monomer units carrying a thiol or protected thiol function, optionally with copolymerization or copolycondensation of monomer units not containing a thiol or protected thiol function.

[0650] According to one embodiment of the invention, the polymeric (poly)thiol compounds used according to the invention are polymers soluble in cosmetic media, in particular in aqueous or hydroalcoholic media. They are more preferably obtained from amino polymers and their ammonium salts or from polyhydroxylated polymers.

[0651] According to another embodiment of the present invention, the thiomer used according to the invention is a polymer that is soluble in a lipophilic medium.

[0652] According to one embodiment of the present invention, the polythiol compound is a polymeric compound of formula (X), wherein q represents an integer greater than or equal to 2, and POLY represents a carbon-based and / or silicon-based, preferably silicon-based polymeric group, POLY may also contain one or more heteroatoms selected from O, N or S, and / or one or more functional groups selected from (thio)ester, (thio)ketone, (thio)amide, (thio)urea and (thio)urethane functional groups, and / or may be replaced by one or more linear or branched (C1-C 10 ) alkyl or linear or branched (C1-C 10 ) alkoxy substitution, it being understood that when POLY is substituted, the thiol functionality may be carried by the substituent(s).

[0653] The weight average molecular weight of polythiol polymer compounds (such as those of formula (X)) is generally between 500 and 400,000 g.mol -1 Between, preferably between 500 and 150000 g.mol -1 between.

[0654] According to a particular embodiment of the present invention, the polythiol compound is selected from polyorganosiloxanes comprising thiol groups on the terminal chains, such as those of the following formula (XI):

[0655] HS-L 4 -Si(R a )(R b )-O-[Si(R a )(R b )-O] n -Si(R a )(R b )-L 5 -SH (XI)

[0656] In formula (XI):

[0657] -R a and R b may be the same or different, preferably the same, and represent a group selected from the group consisting of: (C1-C4) alkyl, such as methyl; (C1-C4) alkoxy, such as methoxy; aryl, such as phenyl; aryloxy, such as phenoxy; aryl (C1-C4) alkyl, such as benzyl; or aryl (C1-C4) alkoxy, such as benzyloxy (benzoxy); preferably (C1-C4) alkyl, such as methyl;

[0658] - n represents an integer greater than or equal to 1, and more particularly, n has a value such that the weight average molecular weight of the silicone ranges from 500 to 55000 g.mol; in particular, n is an integer in the range of 1 to 100, preferably 5 to 50 and preferably 10 to 30, and

[0659] -L 4 and L 5and (C1-C6)alkylene, (C1-C6)alkyleneoxy, oxy(C1-C6)alkylene, (C1-C6)alkyleneoxy(C1-C6)alkylene, (C1-C6)alkyleneoxy(C1-C6)alkyleneoxy or oxy(C1-C6)alkyleneoxy(C1-C6)alkyleneoxy, preferably (C1-C6)alkylene, (C1-C6)alkyleneoxy, oxy(C1-C6)alkyleneoxy or (C1-C6)alkyleneoxy(C1-C6)alkyleneoxy, preferably (C1-C6)alkylene, (C1-C6)alkyleneoxy, oxy(C1-C6)alkylene or (C1-C6)alkyleneoxy(C1-C6)alkylene.

[0660] Preferably, the (poly)thiol compound is a polythiol polyorganosiloxane, more preferably a polythiol polydimethylsiloxane, in particular those selected from formula (XII):

[0661] HS-L 4 -Si(CH3)2-O-[Si(CH3)2-O] n -Si(CH3)2-L 5 -SH (XII)

[0662] In formula (XII):

[0663] -L 4 and L 5 As previously defined in formula (IX), specifically, L 4 and L 5 represents (C1-C6)alkylene, (C1-C6)alkyleneoxy, oxy(C1-C6)alkylene or (C1-C6)alkyleneoxy(C1-C6)alkylene, more preferably is selected from –R2–, –O–R2–, –R2–O– and –R2–O–R2–, preferably –R2–O–R2–, wherein R2 represents a linear or branched, preferably linear, (C2-C6)alkylene, such as ethylene or n-propylene, preferably n-propylene; and

[0664] -n is as defined in formula (XI).

[0665] As polythiol compounds of formula (XII), mention may be made of mercaptosiloxanes or thiosiloxanes in which the thiol function is at the end of the chain, sold under the reference X-22-167B by the company Shin-Etsu, and mercaptosiloxanes in which the thiol function is pendant, sold under the reference KF-2001 by the company Shin-Etsu, or polydimethylsiloxanes in which the thiol function is at the end of the chain via a thio-n-propyl group (80 to 120 groups), sold under the name DMS-SM 21 by the company Gelest.

[0666] Preferably, the polythiol compound is chosen from polyorganosiloxanes comprising thiol groups on the side chains, such as those of formula (XIII):

[0667] R a -Si(R b )(R d )-O-[Si(R a )(R b )-O] m -[Si(R b )(ALK1-SH)-O] n -Si(R b )(R d )-R a (XIII)

[0668] In formula (XIII):

[0669] -R a and R b As defined in formula (XI), and R d As for R a and R b As defined, preferably R a 、R b and R d are the same, representing a (C1-C6)alkyl group, such as methyl;

[0670] -R d It may also represent a (C1-C6)alkyl group substituted by a (C1-C4)alkylamino group or an amino group or a thiol group, preferably a (C1-C4)alkyl group such as a methyl group;

[0671] -ALK1 represents a linear or branched, optionally cyclic, saturated or unsaturated, divalent hydrocarbon-based chain comprising 1 to 100 carbon atoms, which is optionally interrupted by one or more heteroatoms such as oxygen, sulfur or nitrogen, in particular oxygen, (thio)carbonyl C(X) (wherein X represents O or S) or combinations thereof such as -O-, -OC(O)- or -C(O)-O-; preferably, ALK1 represents (C1-C6)alkylene, and more preferably (C1-C4)alkylene, such as propylene;

[0672] - n and m may be the same or different and represent an integer greater than 2, and more particularly, the values ​​of m and n are such that the weight average molecular weight of the polyorganosiloxane is between 1000 and 55000 g.mol -1 between.

[0673] As examples of polythiol compounds of formula (XIII), mention may be made of those sold under the names GP-367, GP-71-SS, GP-800 and GP-710s by the company Genesee Polymers, preferably GP-367, sold by the company Genesee Polymers.

[0674] In particular, the polythiol compound is a polydimethylsiloxane comprising at least two thiol groups, such as the products SMS-022, SMS-042 and SMS-992 sold by the company Gelest at https: / / www.gpcsilicones.com / products / silicone-fluids / mercapto-functional, https: / / www.shinetsusilicone-global.com / products / type / oil / detail / search / deg07.shtml and 1053_Reactive Silicones_Silanes / Silicones-Gelest.

[0675] According to a particular embodiment of the present invention, the (poly)thiol compound is selected from hyperbranched polymers comprising at least one thiol group and dendrimers carrying at least one thiol group, such as thiolated PAMAM dendrimers.

[0676] Preferably, the (poly)thiol compounds used according to the invention are chosen from polydiallylsiloxanes (in particular polydimethylsiloxanes) comprising at least two thiol groups, such as those of formula (XIII).

[0677] C) (Poly)acrylate compounds

[0678] According to a particular embodiment, the crosslinking agent is a (poly)acrylate compound.

[0679] The term "(multi)acrylate" means a acrylate containing at least one acrylate group H2C=C(R e )-C(O)-Y-, wherein R e represents a hydrogen atom or a (C1-C4) alkyl group, such as a methyl group, preferably R e represents a hydrogen atom, and Y represents an oxygen atom or an amino group -N(H)-, preferably an oxygen atom.

[0680] More specifically, the (multi)acrylate(s) of the present invention have formula (XIV):

[0681] L[-YC(O)-C(R e )=CH2] q(XIV)

[0682] In formula (XIV), q and L are as defined in formula (VIII), and Y and R e As previously defined, preferably Y = O and R e =H.

[0683] According to a preferred embodiment, the compound of formula (XIV) is such that L represents a divalent or trivalent, preferably trivalent, hydrocarbon-based chain comprising 1 to 8 carbon atoms, q is 2 or 3, preferably 3, Y represents O, and R e Represents a hydrogen atom.

[0684] According to a particular embodiment, the (poly)acrylate compound is chosen from polyorganosiloxanes comprising at least one acrylate group in the side chain, such as those of formula (XV):

[0685] R a -Si(R b )(R d )-O-[Si(R a )(R b )-O] m -[Si(R b )(ALK1-YC(O)-C(R e )=CH2)-O] n -Si(R b )(R d )-R a (XV)

[0686] In formula (XV):

[0687] -R a 、R b and R d As defined in formula (XIII), preferably, R a 、R b and R d represents a (C1-C6)alkyl group, such as methyl,

[0688] -ALK1 is as defined in formula (XIII), preferably, ALK1 represents (C1-C6)alkylene, more preferably, represents (C1-C4)alkylene, such as propylene,

[0689] - n and m may be the same or different and represent an integer greater than 2, and more particularly, the values ​​of m and n are such that the weight average molecular weight of the polyorganosiloxane is between 1000 and 55000 g.mol -1 between.

[0690] -Y is as defined previously, and is preferably an oxygen atom.

[0691] More specifically, the (poly)acrylate compound may be selected from 1,3-butanediol diacrylate, 1,4-butanediol diacrylate, bis(trimethylolpropane) tetraacrylate, glyceryl 1,3-diglycerol diacrylate, diacrylate), glyceryl propoxylated (1PO / OH) triacrylate, 1,6-hexanediol diacrylate, 1,6-hexanediol ethoxylated diacrylate, hydroxypivalylhydroxypivalate, neopentyl glycol diacrylate, neopentyl glycol propoxylated (1PO / OH) diacrylate, pentaerythritol tetraacrylate, pentaerythritol triacrylate, poly(propylene glycol) diacrylate, tricyclo[5.2.1.02,6]decanedimethanol diacrylate, trimethylolpropane ethoxylated (1EO / OH) methyl ether diacrylate, trimethylolpropane propoxylated triacrylate, trimethylolpropane triacrylate, trimethylolpropane trimethacrylate, tri(propylene glycol) diacrylate, and tris[2-(acryloyloxy)ethyl]isocyanurate.

[0692] The (poly)acrylate compound may also be selected from N,N'-methylenebisacrylamide.

[0693] According to this embodiment, the (poly)acrylate compound is combined in its embodiments with an amine catalyst, for example, as described in Progress in coating 129, 21-25 (2019) and Progress in coating 135, 510-516 (2019). Preferably, the amine catalyst(s) are selected from piperidine, DMAP (dimethylaminopyridine), DBU (1,8-diazabicyclo[5.4.0]undec-7-ene), DABCO (1,4-diazabicyclo[2.2.2]octane) and DBN (1,5-diazabicyclo[4.3.0]non-5-ene), more preferably selected from DBU (1,8-diazabicyclo[5.4.0]undec-7-ene), DABCO (1,4-diazabicyclo[2.2.2]octane) and DBN (1,5-diazabicyclo[4.3.0]non-5-ene), and in particular, the catalyst is DBU (1,8-diazabicyclo[5.4.0]undec-7-ene).

[0694] More specifically, the (poly)acrylate compound is selected from those of formula (XIV), in particular trimethylolpropane triacrylate, and those of formula (XV), more preferably from those of formula (XIV), in particular trimethylolpropane triacrylate.

[0695] D) Metal alkoxide

[0696] According to a specific embodiment, the crosslinking agent R is selected from the following formula (XIV a )、(XIV b )、(XIV c ) and (XIV d ) of metal alkoxides and mixtures thereof:

[0697] M-(OR1) n (XIV a )

[0698] RM-(OR1) n-1 (XIV b )

[0699] (R1O) n-1 -MR”-M'-(OR1') n’-1 (XIV c )

[0700] RM(R')-(OR1) n-2 (XIV d )

[0701] In formula (XIV a )、(XIV b )、(XIV c ) and (XIV d )middle:

[0702] -M and M' may be the same or different and represent an atom selected from alkaline earth metals, transition metals, lanthanide family metals, post-transition metals such as aluminum or tin and metalloids such as boron; preferably transition metals such as Ti and post-transition metals such as aluminum;

[0703] -n and n' represent the valence of the atoms represented by M and M', respectively;

[0704] - R1 and R1', which may be identical or different, represent a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon-based group containing 1 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably 1 to 6 carbon atoms, said hydrocarbon-based group being optionally interrupted by 1 to 20 heteroatoms selected from O, N, S and P, in particular O or N; and / or said hydrocarbon-based group being optionally substituted by one or more hydroxyl or carbonyl groups;

[0705] - R and R', which may be identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or a linear, branched, acyclic or cyclic, saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon-based group containing 1 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably 2 to 20 carbon atoms, which is optionally interrupted by 1 to 20 heteroatoms chosen from O, N, S and / or P, in particular O or N, and / or said hydrocarbon-based group is optionally substituted by one or more hydroxyl or carbonyl groups;

[0706] -R" represents -O-, -N(R2)-, -S- or a linear, cyclic or branched, saturated or unsaturated divalent hydrocarbon-based group containing 1 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably 2 to 20 carbon atoms, which is optionally interrupted by 1 to 20 heteroatoms selected from O, N, S and P, in particular O or N, wherein R2 represents a linear, cyclic or branched, saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon-based group containing 1 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably 2 to 20 carbon atoms.

[0707] Preferably, M and M', which may be the same or different, represent an atom selected from a transition metal such as titanium or zirconium or an alkaline earth metal such as magnesium, more preferably from a transition metal such as titanium or zirconium, even more preferably from titanium.

[0708] Preferably, the organometallic compound(s) are selected from the group consisting of formula (XIV a According to this preferred embodiment, the organometallic compound(s) are more particularly selected from the group consisting of: a ) wherein M represents an atom selected from a transition metal, a lanthanide metal, a post-transition metal (such as aluminum, tin), a metalloid such as boron or an alkaline earth metal such as magnesium or calcium; n represents the valence of the atom represented by M; and R1 represents a saturated, linear or branched hydrocarbon-based group containing 1 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably 1 to 6 carbon atoms.

[0709] According to another more preferred embodiment, the organometallic compound(s) are selected from the group consisting of formula (XIV a ) wherein M represents an atom selected from a transition metal (e.g. zirconium or titanium), a lanthanide metal, a post-transition metal (e.g. aluminum or tin), a metalloid (e.g. boron) and an alkaline earth metal (e.g. magnesium), preferably M represents a titanium atom; n represents the valence of the atom represented by M, in particular 1, 2, 3 or 4, in particular 4; and R1 represents a methyl, ethyl, 2-ethylhexyl, propyl, isopropyl, n-butyl, isobutyl or tert-butyl group.

[0710] According to an even more preferred embodiment, the (one or more) organometallic compounds are selected from zirconium ethoxide (Zr(OC2H5)4), zirconium propoxide (Zr(OCH2CH2CH3)4), zirconium isopropoxide (Zr(OCH(CH3)2)4), zirconium butoxide Zr(OCH2CH2CH2CH3)4, zirconium tert-butoxide (Zr(OC(CH3)3)4), titanium ethoxide (Ti(OC2H5)4), titanium propoxide (Ti(OCH2CH2CH3)4), titanium isopropoxide (Ti(OCH(CH3)2)4), titanium butoxide (Ti(OCH2CH2CH2CH3)4), titanium tert-butoxide (Ti(OC(CH3)3)4), titanium 2-ethylhexoxide (Ti(OCH2CH(C2H5)(CH2)3CH3)4), and mixtures thereof, more preferably selected from zirconium propoxide, titanium propoxide, titanium butoxide and mixtures thereof.

[0711] More preferably, the crosslinking agent R is of formula (XIV a ), preferably wherein M represents an atom selected from transition metals, in particular titanium, such as titanium butoxide.

[0712] E) (Poly)carbonyl compounds

[0713] According to a particular embodiment, the crosslinking agent R is a (poly)carbonyl compound.

[0714] In particular, the (poly)carbonyl compound is chosen from terephthalaldehyde, 5,5-dimethyl-1,3-cyclohexanedione, phenylglyoxal, isophthalaldehyde, 4-acetylbenzaldehyde, 4,4-diformyltriphenylamine, 2-acetylbenzaldehyde, 3-(2-furoyl)quinoline-2-carboxaldehyde, 3-(2-furoyl)quinoline-2-carboxaldehyde, 3-acetylbenzaldehyde, 9-(2-ethylhexyl)carbazole-3,6-dicarbaldehyde, o-phthalaldehyde, 1,3-cyclohexanedione, 4,4′-biphenyldicarboxaldehyde, benzene-1,3,5-tricarbaldehyde, and nonionic or anionic oxidized polysaccharides such as oxidized inulin, in particular those of formula (II) as defined below. In particular, the (poly)carbonyl compound comprises a saturated or unsaturated aromatic C5-C7 carbon ring, preferably aromatic such as phenyl, or non-aromatic and saturated such as cyclohexyl, more preferably unsaturated and aromatic such as terephthalaldehyde.

[0715] According to a particular embodiment, the (poly)carbonyl compound(s) are chosen from nonionic or anionic oxidized polysaccharides comprising one or more aldehyde groups, and optionally one or more anionic groups.

[0716] These anionic groups are preferably carboxyl or carboxylate groups.

[0717] The nonionic or anionic oxidized polysaccharide according to the present invention can be represented by the following formula (II):

[0718] P-(CHO) m (COOQ) n (II)

[0719] In formula (II):

[0720] -P represents a polysaccharide chain, which preferably consists of monosaccharides containing 5 carbon atoms or more than 5 carbon atoms, preferably 6 or more than 6 carbon atoms, and more particularly 6 carbon atoms;

[0721] -Q is selected from a hydrogen atom, an ion derived from an alkali metal or alkaline earth metal such as sodium or potassium, ammonium, an organic amine such as monoethanolamine, diethanolamine, triethanolamine and 3-amino-1,2-propanediol, and a basic amino acid such as lysine, arginine, sarcosine, ornithine and citrulline;

[0722] -m+n is greater than or equal to 1;

[0723] -m is such that the degree of substitution of the polysaccharide by one or more aldehyde groups (DS(CHO)) is in the range of 0.001 to 2, and preferably 0.005 to 1.5;

[0724] -n is such that the degree of substitution of the polysaccharide by one or more carboxyl groups (DS(COOX)) is in the range of 0 to 2, and preferably 0.001 to 1.5.

[0725] The expression "degree of substitution DS(CHO) or DS(COOX) of the polysaccharide according to the invention" means the ratio between the number of carbon atoms oxidized to give aldehyde or carboxyl groups for all repeating units and the number of elementary monosaccharides constituting the polysaccharide (even by pre-oxidative ring opening). The groups CHO and COOX may be obtained during the oxidation of certain carbon atoms (e.g., carbon atoms 2, 3, or 6) of a saccharide unit containing 6 carbon atoms.

[0726] Preferably, oxidation can take place on carbons 2 and 3, more particularly from 0.01% to 75% and preferably from 0.1% to 50% based on the number of rings that can be opened.

[0727] The polysaccharide chain represented by P is preferably selected from cellulose, starch, maltodextrin, guar gum, xanthan gum, pullulan gum, agar gum, carrageenan, gellan gum, gum arabic, polyxylan and tragacanth, and derivatives thereof.

[0728] The term "derivatives" is intended to mean compounds obtained by chemical modification of the compounds mentioned. They may be esters, amides or ethers of the compounds in question.

[0729] The oxidation may be carried out according to methods known in the art, for example according to FR 2842200, document FR 2854161 or the article by E. Fredon et al. “Hydrophobic films from maize bran hemicelluloses” Carbohydrate Polymers 49, pp. 1-12 (2002).

[0730] Another oxidation process is described in the article “Water soluble oxidized starches by peroxide reaction extrusion” Industrial Crops and Products 7, REWing, JL Willet, 45-52 (1997).

[0731] According to this embodiment, the (poly)carbonyl compound is combined with an amine catalyst in its embodiments as described in Progress in coating 129, 21-25 (2019) and Progress in coating 135, 510-516 (2019). Preferably, the amine catalyst(s) are selected from piperidine, DMAP (dimethylaminopyridine), DBU (1,8-diazabicyclo[5.4.0]undec-7-ene), DABCO (1,4-diazabicyclo[2.2.2]octane) and DBN (1,5-diazabicyclo[4.3.0]non-5-ene), more preferably selected from DBU (1,8-diazabicyclo[5.4.0]undec-7-ene), DABCO (1,4-diazabicyclo[2.2.2]octane) and DBN (1,5-diazabicyclo[4.3.0]non-5-ene), and in particular, the catalyst is DBU (1,8-diazabicyclo[5.4.0]undec-7-ene).

[0732] F) Metal salts

[0733] According to another particular embodiment, the crosslinker R is a metal salt chosen from alkali metal salts, alkaline earth metal salts such as magnesium salts, transition metal salts, late transition metal salts such as aluminum or tin salts, metalloid salts such as boron salts, hydrates thereof and mixtures thereof.

[0734] Preferably, the metal salt(s) are selected from late transition metal salts, such as aluminum salts, hydrates thereof and mixtures thereof.

[0735] The term "metal salt" is intended to mean, in particular, a salt resulting from the action of an acid on a metal, in particular a transition metal, a post-transition metal, a metalloid, an alkali metal or an alkaline earth metal.

[0736] The metal salt(s) may be in the form of a hydrate.

[0737] The metal salt(s) may be organic or inorganic.

[0738] The term "organometallic salt" is intended to mean a salt resulting in particular from the action of an organic acid on a metal, in particular a transition metal, post-transition metal, metalloid, alkali metal or alkaline earth metal, preferably from the action of a carboxylic acid on the metal.

[0739] Preferably, the metal salt(s) are selected from organometallic salts, hydrates thereof and mixtures thereof.

[0740] The term "inorganic metal salt" is intended to mean, in particular, a salt resulting from the action of an inorganic acid on a metal, in particular a transition metal, a post-transition metal, a metalloid, an alkali metal or an alkaline earth metal.

[0741] The term "inorganic acid" means an acid that does not include any carbon atoms other than carbonic acid.

[0742] According to a particular embodiment of the present invention, the inorganic metal salt(s) may be selected from halides such as chlorides, fluorides, iodides and bromides, carbonates, sulfates, phosphates, nitrates, perchlorates, hydrates thereof, and mixtures thereof.

[0743] According to a more particular embodiment, the crosslinking agent R is an organometallic salt derived from a carboxylic acid.

[0744] More particularly, the crosslinking agent R is an organometallic salt chosen from metal (poly)(hydroxy)(C1-C6)alkylcarboxylates of alkali metals, alkaline earth metals, transition metals and post-transition metals such as aluminium.

[0745] It should be understood that metal (poly)(hydroxy)(C1-C6)alkyl carboxylates mean (C1-C6)alkyl groups optionally substituted with one or more hydroxyl groups and one or more carboxyl or carboxylate groups. Preferably, the metal (poly)(hydroxy)(C1-C6)alkyl carboxylates represent R a -C(O)-OM, wherein M represents a transition metal, such as titanium (Ti), or a post-transition metal, such as aluminum (Al), and R a represents a linear or branched (C1-C6) alkyl group optionally substituted by at least one hydroxy group.

[0746] According to a preferred embodiment of the present invention, the metal salt(s) are organic, preferably selected from citrate, lactate, glycolate, gluconate, acetate, propionate, fumarate, oxalate, glycinate and tartrate, hydrates thereof and mixtures thereof, more preferably acetate, lactate or mixtures thereof, such as aluminium acetate or aluminium lactate.

[0747] According to a preferred embodiment, the metal salt(s) are selected from basic aluminum acetate, aluminum oxalate, hydrated or non-hydrated aluminum citrate, aluminum lactate and aluminum glycinate, and mixtures thereof.

[0748] According to a more preferred embodiment, the metal salt is basic aluminum acetate.

[0749] G) Rare earth metal derivatives

[0750] According to another particular embodiment, the crosslinking agent R is a compound of a metal belonging to the group of rare earth metals M″, and in particular a salt of a metal belonging to this group of rare earth metals.

[0751] The term "salts of metals belonging to the group of rare earth metals" means salts derived in particular from the action of an acid on a metal belonging to the group of rare earth metals.

[0752] The compound(s) of the metal belonging to the rare earth metal group may be in the form of a hydrate.

[0753] The compound(s) of the metal belonging to the rare earth metal group may be organic or inorganic. They may or may not be in the form of a salt.

[0754] The term "organic salts of metals belonging to the group of rare earth metals" means salts derived in particular from the action of organic acids, in particular carboxylic acids, on metals belonging to the group of rare earth metals.

[0755] The term "inorganic salts of metals belonging to the group of rare earth metals" is intended to mean salts derived in particular from the action of inorganic acids on metals belonging to the group of rare earth metals.

[0756] The term "inorganic acid" means an acid that does not include any carbon atoms other than carbonic acid.

[0757] As examples of metals belonging to the rare earth metals M″ group, mention may be made of scandium, yttrium, lanthanum, cerium, praseodymium, neodymium, promethium, samarium, europium, gadolinium, terbium, dysprosium, holmium, erbium, thulium, ytterbium and lutetium. Preferably, the metal(s) belonging to the rare earth metal group are chosen from cerium, yttrium, ytterbium, lanthanum and europium; more preferably, the metal belonging to the rare earth metals M″ group is chosen from cerium and yttrium.

[0758] Preferably, the metal belonging to the group of rare earth metals M" is chosen from cerium, yttrium, ytterbium, lanthanum and europium, and mixtures thereof. More preferably, the metal belonging to the group of rare earth metals is chosen from cerium and yttrium, and mixtures thereof.

[0759] Preferably, the metal belonging to the group of rare earth metals M" is in the oxidation state +III.

[0760] According to the present invention, the metal compound belonging to the rare earth metal group is selected from rare earth metal salts and rare earth metal complexes.

[0761] The term "rare earth metal complex" means a combination of a metal M" and one or more ligands.

[0762] In the following text, the term "ligand" means an ion or molecule carrying a group that binds to the metal M" via ionic and / or coordinate bonds. The same ligand may carry several groups that bind via ionic and / or coordinate bonds.

[0763] Definitions of rare earth metal salts or complexes can be found in: Progress in the Science and Technology of the Rare Earths, Volume 1, edited by Leroy Eyring in 1964, published by Macmillan Company, and written by F. Gaume-Mahn, page 259 et seq.

[0764] The rare earth metal salts and complexes according to the invention are characterized in that they contain at least one metal atom M″ which belongs to the group of rare earth metals and in the +III oxidation state.

[0765] The metal belonging to the rare earth metal M" group can then associate with n1 anionic groups via its electron shell to form ionic bonds with M", and / or bind to n2 groups to form coordinate bonds with M". Groups forming coordinate bonds are, for example, groups having donor electron pairs, such as carbonyl groups or amine groups.

[0766] If n2=0, the compound of the metal belonging to the group of rare earth metals forms a salt, and in this case the metal M″ belonging to the group of rare earth metals is associated with three anionic groups.

[0767] If n2>0, the compound of the metal belonging to the rare earth metal group forms a complex, and in this case, the number n1 of anionic groups may range from 0 to 3.

[0768] The metal M″ belonging to the group of rare earth metals is associated with one or more anionic groups and / or one or more groups forming coordinate bonds.

[0769] The ligands that associate with metals belonging to the rare earth metal M" group to form the corresponding rare earth metal complexes are described below.

[0770] a) Typically, the ligand may be a monovalent anion, which may or may not be monatomic, such as a nitrate or hydroxyl group (OH-) or a halide ion (typically chloride or bromide). For example, the resulting rare earth metal compound may then be M"Cl3, M"(OH)3 or M"(NO3)3, and in particular CeNO3, YNO3, LaNO3, CeCl3, YCl3, LaCl3, more preferably a rare earth metal halide, in particular Ce and Y halides, such as CeCl3 and YCl3.

[0771] b) The ligand may be a divalent or trivalent anion, such as phosphate or sulfate. By way of example, rare earth metal compounds such as MPO4 or M2(SO4)3 may be mentioned, and in particular CePO4, YPO4, LaPO4, Ce2(SO4)3, Y2(SO4)3 and La2(SO4)3.

[0772] c) The ligand may contain one or more groups that form coordinate bonds and functional groups that form ionic bonds.

[0773] Thus, the ligand may be a monocarboxylate or polycarboxylate molecule, such as acetate or succinate. In this case, it is believed that the carboxylate functional group acts as an anionic group via the hydroxyl group of the carboxyl group and as a group forming a coordination bond via the lone pair of electrons on the oxygen of the carbonyl functional group. Thus, the resulting rare earth metal compound may be M" (R-(COO) n ) 3 / n In addition to one or more carboxylates, the ligand may include other functional groups, such as hydroxyl or amine. Thus, the ligand may consist entirely or partially of a hydroxycarboxylic acid or an aminocarboxylic acid. As monocarboxylic or polycarboxylic acid compounds with additional functional groups, mention may be made of tartrate, citrate, glycolate or ethylenediaminetetraacetic acid (EDTA) ions.

[0774] The ligand may carry a non-local anionic charge, such as acetylacetonate. The rare earth metal compound would then be M"(acetylacetonate)3 or M"(acetylacetonate)3·7H2O, where each acetylacetonate is bonded to the metal M" via its two carbonyl functions, one acting as an anionic group and the other as a group bonded by coordination.

[0775] The ligands may also be of aromatic type, for example phenol, cyclopentadiene (Progress in the Science and Technology of the Rare Earths, published by Leroy Eyring and written by F. Gaume-Mahn, page 296) or pyridine.

[0776] D) the rare earth metal compound can include one or more ligands forming a coordinate bond and one or more ligands forming an ionic bond. Therefore, the rare earth metal compound can be yttrium dihydroxyacetate Y((OH)2acetate) (SS Balabanov, EMGavrishchuk and DA Permin, Inorganic Materials, 2012, Vol. 48, No. 5, pp. 500-503 Synthesis and Properties of Yttrium Hydroxyacetate Sols).

[0777] e) The rare earth metal compound may be a mixed salt in which one of the cations M'' represents a cation other than a rare earth metal cation, such as an alkali metal or alkaline earth metal or a cationic organic cation, in particular a quaternary amine (or ammonium), such as mono / di / tri / tetra(C1-C4)alkylammonium, or mono / di(C1-C4)alkylimidazolium, (C1-C4)alkylpyridinium; more specifically, the mixed salt rare earth metal compound is Li, Ce(SO4)2.

[0778] Compounds belonging to the group of rare earth metals, which are generally highly hygroscopic, may be in the form of hydrates, for example CeCl 3 .7H 2 O, YCl 3 .6H 2 O, LaCl 3 .7H 2 O or Ce(acetylacetonate) 3 .xH 2 O.

[0779] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the compound(s) belonging to the group of rare earth metals are chosen from salts of organic acids such as citrates, lactates, glycolates, gluconates, acetates, propionates, fumarates, oxalates, tartrates, methanesulfonates and methanesulfates, in particular gluconates, hydrates thereof and mixtures thereof.

[0780] According to a preferred embodiment, the salt(s) of a metal belonging to the group of rare earth metals are inorganic salts.

[0781] Preferably, the inorganic salt(s) of a metal belonging to the rare earth metal group is chosen from halides such as chlorides, fluorides, iodides and bromides, carbonates, sulfates, phosphates, nitrates and perchlorates, hydrates thereof and mixtures thereof.

[0782] More preferably, the inorganic salt(s) of a metal belonging to the rare earth metal group is chosen from halides, such as chlorides, fluorides, iodides and bromides, and nitrates, hydrates thereof, and mixtures thereof.

[0783] Even more preferably, the inorganic salt(s) of a metal belonging to the group of rare earth metals are chosen from chlorides and nitrates, hydrates thereof, and mixtures thereof.

[0784] According to a particularly preferred embodiment, the compound(s) belonging to the group of rare earth metals are selected from Ce(NO3)3, Y(NO3)3, La(NO3)3, CeCl3, YCl3 and LaCl3, and mixtures thereof.

[0785] According to an even more preferred embodiment, the compound(s) belonging to the group of rare earth metals are chosen from CeCl 3 and YCl 3 , and mixtures thereof.

[0786] According to a preferred embodiment, the crosslinking agent is selected from the group consisting of (poly)amine compounds A), (poly)thiol compounds B), (poly)acrylate compounds C), metal alkoxides D) and (poly)carbonyl compounds E), and is preferably selected from the group consisting of (poly)amine compounds A), (poly)thiol compounds B) and (poly)acrylate compounds C).

[0787] In particular, the (poly)amine compound A) is chosen from a) chitosans, such as poly(D-glucosamine), b) polyetherdiamines, in particular polyethylene glycol α,ω-diamine (carrying amine functions at the ends of the chain), c) polyethertriamines, such as polyetheramine (or Jeffamine), d) aminoalkoxysilanes, such as APTES, and e) polydialkylsiloxanes comprising primary amine groups at the ends of the chain or in the side chains, in particular polydimethylsiloxanes comprising primary amine groups, such as bis(3-aminopropyl)-terminated poly(dimethoxysiloxane) (PDMS-diNH2) and aminopolydimethylsiloxanes comprising amine groups in the side chains, such as bis-cetearylaminopolydimethylsiloxane, in particular the products sold by Momentive Performance Materials, and f) polyamine compounds NH2-alk-NH2, where alk represents a divalent C2-C 20 A hydrocarbon-based chain, optionally interrupted by one or more heteroatoms selected from -O-, -N(R)-, wherein R represents a hydrogen atom or a C1-C4 alkyl group, such as spermidine.

[0788] According to a preferred embodiment, the (poly)amine compound A) is selected from a) chitosans, such as poly(D-glucosamine), c) polyethertriamines, such as polyetheramine (or Jeffamine), and e) polydialkylsiloxanes comprising primary amine groups at the end of the chain or in the side chain, in particular polydimethylsiloxanes comprising primary amine groups, such as bis(3-aminopropyl)-terminated poly(dimethoxysiloxane) (PDMS-diNH2) and amodimethicone comprising amine groups in the side chain, such as bis(3-aminopropyl)-terminated poly(dimethoxysiloxane) (PDMS-diNH2), in particular the products sold by Momentive Performance Materials, and f) polyamine compounds NH2-alk-NH2, in which alkyl represents a divalent C2-C 20A hydrocarbon-based chain, optionally interrupted by one or more heteroatoms selected from -O-, -N(R)-, wherein R represents a hydrogen atom or a C1-C4 alkyl group, for example spermidine or 4,7,10-trioxa-1,13-tridecanediamine.

[0789] In particular, the (poly)thiol compound B) is chosen from a) polydialkylsiloxanes carrying thiol functional groups, and b) alkoxysilanes carrying thiol functional groups, and in particular from a) polydialkylsiloxanes carrying thiol functional groups, preferably polydimethylsiloxanes containing thiol groups (e.g. mercaptopropyl) in the side chains, in particular those of formula (XIII).

[0790] In particular, the (poly)acrylate C) compound is chosen from those of formula (XIV), in particular trimethylolpropane triacrylate, and those of formula (XV), in particular copolymers of dimethylsiloxane and acryloxypropylmethylsiloxane, preferably trimethylolpropane triacrylate.

[0791] According to a preferred embodiment, the cross-linking agent(s) ii) are selected from:

[0792] A) a (poly)amine compound selected from the group consisting of:

[0793] ia) chitosans such as poly (D-glucosamine),

[0794] ib) polyetherdiamines, in particular polyethylene glycol α,ω-diamines with chain-terminal amine functions,

[0795] ic) polyethertriamines, in particular polyetheramine (or Jeffamine),

[0796] id) aminoalkoxysilanes, in particular APTES,

[0797] ie) polyamine compounds NH2-alk-NH2, wherein alk represents a divalent C2-C 20 hydrocarbon-based chains, optionally interrupted by one or more heteroatoms chosen from -O-, -N(R)-, wherein R represents a hydrogen atom or a C1-C4-alkyl group, in particular spermidine and 4,7,10-trioxa-1,13-tridecanediamine, and

[0798] if) polydialkylsiloxanes containing primary amine groups at the end of the chain or in the side chain, in particular polydimethylsiloxanes containing primary amine groups, more particularly bis(3-aminopropyl)-terminated poly(dimethoxysiloxane) (PDMS-diNH2) and amodimethicone containing amine groups in the side chain, more particularly bis-cetearyl amodimethicone;

[0799] B) a (poly)thiol compound selected from the group consisting of:

[0800] iia) polydialkylsiloxanes carrying thiol functional groups, and

[0801] iib) alkoxysilanes carrying thiol functions,

[0802] and in particular selected from: iia) polydialkylsiloxanes carrying thiol functional groups, preferably from polydimethylsiloxanes containing thiol groups in the side chains, in particular mercaptopropyl groups, more particularly from compounds of formula (XIII):

[0803] R a -Si(R b )(R d )-O-[Si(R a )(R b )-O] m -[Si(R b )(ALK1-SH)-O] n -Si(R b )(R d )-R a (XIII)

[0804] In formula (XIII):

[0805] -R a and R b may be identical or different, preferably identical, and represent (C1-C4)alkyl, in particular methyl, (C1-C4)alkoxy, in particular methoxy, aryl, in particular phenyl, aryloxy, in particular phenoxy, aryl(C1-C4)alkyl, in particular benzyl, or aryl(C1-C4)alkoxy, in particular benzyloxy, preferably (C1-C4)alkyl, more preferably methyl,

[0806] -R d represents (C1-C4)alkyl, especially methyl, (C1-C4)alkoxy, especially methoxy, aryl, especially phenyl, aryloxy, especially phenoxy, aryl(C1-C4)alkyl, especially benzyl, aryl(C1-C4)alkoxy, especially benzyloxy, or (C1-C6)alkyl substituted by (C1-C4)alkylamino, amino or thiol groups, and is preferably (C1-C4)alkyl, more preferably methyl,

[0807] And preferably, R a 、R b and R d are identical and represent (C1-C6)alkyl, more preferably methyl,

[0808] -ALK1 represents a linear or branched, optionally cyclic, saturated or unsaturated, divalent hydrocarbon-based chain comprising 1 to 100 carbon atoms, optionally interrupted by one or more heteroatoms (such as oxygen, sulfur or nitrogen, in particular oxygen), a (thio)carbonyl group C(X) (wherein X represents O or S) or a combination thereof, in particular -O-, -OC(O)- or -C(O)-O-; preferably, ALK1 represents (C1-C6)alkylene, and more preferably (C1-C4)alkylene, even more preferably propylene,

[0809] - n and m may be identical or different and represent an integer greater than 2, and in particular the values ​​of m and n are such that the weight average molecular weight of the polyorganosiloxane is between 1000 and 55000 g.mol -1 between; and

[0810] C) (poly)acrylate compounds of formula (XIV):

[0811] L[-YC(O)-C(R e )=CH2] q (XIV)

[0812] In formula (XIV):

[0813] -q represents an integer greater than or equal to 2, in particular n is between 2 and 10 and preferably between 2 and 5 (inclusive).

[0814] -L represents a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated or (hetero)cyclic, saturated or unsaturated, polyvalent (at least divalent) group, in particular comprising 1 to 500 carbon and / or silicon atoms, more particularly 2 to 40 carbon and / or silicon atoms, even more particularly 3 to 30 carbon and / or silicon atoms, preferably 6 to 20 carbon atoms; L is optionally replaced by one or more groups selected from O, S, N, Si, C(X), and combinations thereof, in particular -O-, -OC(X)-, -N(R)-C(X)-, -Si(R)- c )(R d )-O-, wherein R represents a hydrogen atom or a (C1-C6)alkyl group, in particular a methyl group; and / or L is optionally substituted by one or more groups selected from: -N(R a )R b and -(X') a -C(X)-(X”) b -R a ; wherein X, X' and X" may be the same or different and represent an oxygen or sulfur atom or a group N(R b ); a and b are 0 or 1, preferably the sum of a + b is 1; R a and R bmay be the same or different and represent a hydrogen atom, a (C1-C6)alkyl group or an aryl (C1-C4)alkyl group, in particular a benzyl group, preferably R a and R b represents a hydrogen atom, and R c and R d may be the same or different and represent (C1-C6)alkyl, aryl(C1-C4)alkyl or (C1-C6)alkoxy,

[0815] -R e represents a hydrogen atom or a (C1-C4)alkyl group, in particular a methyl group; preferably, R e represents a hydrogen atom, and

[0816] -Y represents an oxygen atom or an amino group -N(H)-, preferably an oxygen atom,

[0817] Preferably, Y is an oxygen atom and R e is a hydrogen atom, preferably, L represents a divalent or trivalent, preferably trivalent, hydrocarbon-based chain containing 1 to 8 carbon atoms, q is 2 or 3, preferably 3, and

[0818] More preferably, the compound of formula (XIV) is trimethylolpropane triacrylate;

[0819] D) a metal alkoxide selected from the group consisting of zirconium ethoxide (Zr(OC2H5)4), zirconium propoxide (Zr(OCH2CH2CH3)4), zirconium isopropoxide (Zr(OCH(CH3)2)4), zirconium butoxide Zr(OCH2CH2CH2CH3)4, zirconium tert-butoxide (Zr(OC(CH3)3)4), titanium ethoxide (Ti(OC2H5)4), titanium propoxide (Ti(OCH2CH2CH3)4), titanium isopropoxide (Ti(OCH(CH3)2)4), titanium butoxide (Ti(OCH2CH2CH2CH3)4), titanium tert-butoxide (Ti(OC(CH3)3)4), titanium 2-ethylhexoxide (Ti(OCH2CH(C2H5)(CH2)3CH3)4) and mixtures thereof, more preferably selected from the group consisting of zirconium propoxide, titanium propoxide, titanium butoxide and mixtures thereof,

[0820] E) (poly)carbonyl compounds selected from the group consisting of saturated or unsaturated aromatic C5-C7 carbon rings, preferably aromatic such as phenyl, or non-aromatic and saturated such as cyclohexyl, more preferably unsaturated and aromatic such as terephthalaldehyde.

[0821] Cosmetic active agentsiii)

[0822] According to a particular embodiment, the method of the invention further comprises applying iii) at least one cosmetic active agent to the keratin fibers, preferably the hair.

[0823] More particularly, in the treatment method according to the invention, at least one of the compositions "C1", "C2", "C3", "C4" or "C5" used comprises one or more cosmetic active agents.

[0824] In particular, the cosmetic active agent(s) iii) are chosen from:

[0825] a) dyes (or colorants), in particular selected from pigments, direct dyes and mixtures thereof,

[0826] b) active agents for caring for keratin fibers, preferably hair,

[0827] c) UV screening agents, and

[0828] d) mixtures thereof.

[0829] According to a specific embodiment, the at least one cosmetic active agent iii) is chosen from colorants, preferably from pigments, direct dyes and mixtures thereof, more preferably pigments.

[0830] According to another embodiment, at least one of the compositions "C1", "C2", "C3", "C4" or "C5" used comprises one or more cosmetic active agents chosen from a) dyes (or colorants), in particular from pigments, direct dyes and mixtures thereof, preferably from pigments.

[0831] According to a particular embodiment, the composition "C1" contains at least one cosmetic active agent iii) as defined previously and hereinafter, preferably chosen from a) coloring agents and more preferably from pigments.

[0832] According to a particular embodiment, the composition "C2" contains at least one cosmetic active agent iii) as defined previously and hereinafter, preferably chosen from a) coloring agents and more preferably from pigments.

[0833] According to a particular embodiment, the composition "C3" contains at least one cosmetic active agent iii) as defined previously and hereinafter, preferably chosen from a) coloring agents and more preferably from pigments.

[0834] It goes without saying that a person skilled in the art will take care to choose the optional cosmetic active agent(s) and / or the amounts thereof such that the advantageous properties of the respective composition according to the invention are not or not substantially adversely affected by the envisaged addition.

[0835] dyes

[0836] According to a particular embodiment, the method of the invention uses one or more staining agents.

[0837] More particularly, in the process of the invention, at least one of the compositions "C1", "C2", "C3", "C4" or "C5" used contains at least one particulate or non-particulate, water-soluble or water-insoluble dyeing agent, preferably in a proportion of at least 0.01% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition under consideration.

[0838] For obvious reasons, this amount is susceptible to considerable variation with respect to the intensity of the desired color effect and the color intensity provided by the dye in question, and its adjustment is clearly within the capabilities of a person skilled in the art.

[0839] Preferably, at least one of the compositions "C1", "C2", "C3", "C4" or "C5" comprises at least one coloring agent chosen from pigments, direct dyes and mixtures thereof, more preferably pigments.

[0840] More preferably, the pigment(s) of the invention are chosen from carbon black, iron oxides, in particular yellow, red and black iron oxides, and micas coated with iron oxide, triarylmethane pigments, in particular blue and violet triarylmethane pigments, in particular Blue 1 Lake, azo pigments, in particular red azo pigments, more in particular D&C Red 7, alkali metal salts of lithol red, in particular the calcium salt of lithol red B, and even more preferably from red iron oxide, yellow iron oxide and azo pigments, in particular red azo pigments, more in particular D&C Red 7.

[0841] pigment

[0842] For the purposes of the present invention, the term "pigment" means any compound capable of imparting color to keratin materials. These compounds have a solubility in water at 25°C and atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg) of less than 0.05% by weight and preferably less than 0.01% by weight.

[0843] As pigments suitable for the present invention, mention may especially be made of the organic and / or mineral pigments known in the art, in particular those described in Kirk-Othmer's Encyclopedia of Chemical Technology and in Ullmann's Encyclopedia of Industrial Chemistry.

[0844] These pigments can be synthetic or natural.

[0845] These pigments may be in the form of pigment powders or pastes.

[0846] They may be coated or uncoated.

[0847] These pigments may be chosen, for example, from mineral pigments, organic pigments, lakes, pigments with special effects, such as mother-of-pearl or glitter flakes, and mixtures thereof.

[0848] Pigments suitable for use in the present invention may be selected from mineral pigments.

[0849] The term "mineral pigment" is intended to mean any pigment that meets the definition given in the chapter on inorganic pigments in Ullmann's encyclopedia. Among the mineral pigments that can be used in the present invention, mention may be made of manganese violet, ultramarine blue, chromium hydrates, ferric blue and titanium, zirconium or cerium oxides or dioxides, and also zinc, iron or chromium oxides.

[0850] Pigments with a possible structure of the sericite / brown iron oxide / titanium dioxide / silicon dioxide type are also possible. Such pigments are sold, for example, by the company Chemicals and Catalysts under the references Coverleaf NS or JS and have a contrast ratio in the range of 30. Pigments with a structure that can be, for example, silica microspheres containing iron oxide are also possible. An example of a pigment with this structure is the product sold by the company Miyoshi under the reference PC Ball PC-LL-100P, which consists of silica microspheres containing yellow iron oxide.

[0851] Advantageously, the pigment may be iron oxide and / or titanium dioxide.

[0852] Pigments suitable for use in the present invention may be selected from organic pigments.

[0853] The term "organic pigment" refers to any pigment that meets the definition in the chapter on organic pigments in Ullmann's Encyclopedia. Among the organic pigments that can be used in the present invention, mention may be made of nitroso, nitro, azo, xanthene, pyrene, quinoline, anthraquinone, triphenylmethane, fluoran, phthalocyanine, metal complexes, isoindolinone, isoindoline, quinacridone, perinone, perylene, diketopyrrolopyrrole, indigo, thioindigo, dioxazine, triphenylmethane and quinophthalone compounds. In particular, the white or colored organic pigments may be chosen from carmine, carbon black, aniline black, azo yellow, quinacridone, phthalocyanine blue, blue pigments numbered in the Color Index with the index numbers CI 42090, 69800, 69825, 74100, 74160, yellow pigments numbered in the Color Index with the index numbers CI 11680, 11710, 19140, 20040, 21100, 21108, 47000, 47005, green pigments numbered in the Color Index with the index numbers CI 61565, 61570, 74260, orange pigments numbered in the Color Index with the index numbers CI 11725, 45370, 71105, Red pigments numbered 12085, 12120, 12370, 12420, 12490, 14700, 15525, 15580, 15620, 15630, 15800, 15850, 15865, 15880, 26100, 45380, 45410, 58000, 73360, 73915, 75470, such as those obtained by oxidative polymerization of indole or phenol derivatives as described in patent FR 2679771.

[0854] Examples that may also be mentioned include pigment pastes of organic pigments, such as the products sold under the following names by the company Hoechst: Cosmenyl Yellow 10G: Yellow 3 pigment (CI 11710); Cosmenyl G yellow: Yellow 1 pigment (CI 11680); Cosmenyl GR orange: Orange 43 pigment (CI 71105); Cosmenyl R red: Red 4 pigment (CI 12085); Cosmenyl FB carmine: Red 5 pigment (CI 12490); Cosmenyl RL violet: Violet 23 pigment (CI 51319); Cosmenyl A2R blue: Blue 15.1 pigment (CI 74160); Cosmenyl GG green: Green 7 pigment (CI 74260); Cosmenyl R black: Black 7 pigment (CI 77266).

[0855] The pigments according to the invention may also be in the form of composite pigments, as described in patent EP 1184426. These composite pigments may in particular consist of particles comprising an inorganic core, at least one binder for attaching an organic pigment to the core, and at least one organic pigment at least partially covering the core.

[0856] Organic pigments can also be lakes.

[0857] The term "lake" refers to a dye adsorbed onto insoluble particles, whereby the resulting assembly remains insoluble during use.

[0858] Inorganic substrates onto which the dyes are adsorbed are, for example, alumina, silica, calcium sodium borosilicate or calcium aluminum borosilicate and aluminum. Among the dyes adsorbed on organic substrates, mention may be made of carminic acid. Mention may also be made of the dyes known under the following names: D&C RED 21 (CI 45 380), D&C ORANGE 5 (CI 45 370), D&C RED 27 (CI 45 410), D&C CORANGE 10 (CI 45425), D&C RED 3 (CI 45 430), D&C RED 4 (CI 15 510), D&C RED 33 (CI17 200), D&C YELLOW5 (CI 19140), D&C YELLOW 6 (CI 15985), D&C GREEN 5 (CI 61 570), D&C YELLOW 10 (CI 77 002), D&C GREEN 3 (CI 42 053), D&C BLUE 1 (CI 42 090), FDC Red 4, D&C RED 6, D&C RED 22, D&C RED 28, D&C RED 30, D&C ORANGE 4, D&C YELLOW 8, D&CGREEN 5, D&C RED 17, D&C GREEN 6, D&C YELLOW 11, D&C Violet 2, Sudan Reds, carotenes (beta-carotene, lycopene), xanthophylls (capsanthin, capsorubin, lutein), palm oil, Sudan Palm Oil, quinoline yellow, annatto, curcumin, betaine (beet), carmine, copper chlorophyllin, methylene blue, anthocyanins (enocianine, black carotene, hibiscus, elderberry), caramel, riboflavin, beet juice, and caramel.

[0859] An example of a lake that may be mentioned is the product known under the name: D&C RED 7 (CI 15850:1).

[0860] The pigments may also be special effect pigments.

[0861] The term "special effect pigments" refers to pigments that generally produce a color appearance (characterized by a specific hue, a specific clarity and a specific brightness level) that is non-uniform and varies depending on the viewing conditions (light, temperature, viewing angle, etc.). They are therefore different from color pigments, which provide a standard uniform opaque, translucent or transparent shade.

[0862] There are several types of special effect pigments: those with a low refractive index, such as fluorescent or photochromic pigments, and those with a higher refractive index, such as nacres, interference pigments or glitter flakes.

[0863] The size of the pigments used in the composition according to the invention is generally between 10 nm and 200 μm, preferably between 20 nm and 80 μm and more preferably between 30 nm and 50 μm.

[0864] The pigment may be dispersed in the composition by a dispersant.

[0865] The dispersant may be a surfactant, oligomer, polymer or mixture of several thereof carrying one or more functional groups having a strong affinity for the surface of the particles to be dispersed. In particular, they may become physically or chemically attached to the surface of the pigment. These dispersants also contain at least one functional group that is compatible with or soluble in the continuous medium. In particular, polyols such as glycerol or diglycerol, in particular 12-hydroxystearic acid and C8 to C 20 Esters of fatty acids, for example poly(12-hydroxystearic acid) stearate with a molecular weight of about 750 g / mol, such as the product sold under the name Solsperse 21000 by the company Avecia, polyglyceryl-2 dipolyhydroxystearate (CTFA name) sold under the reference Dehymyls PGPH by the company Henkel, or polyhydroxystearic acids, such as the product sold under the reference Arlacel P100 by the company Uniqema, and mixtures thereof. Other dispersants that may be used in the composition of the invention include quaternary ammonium derivatives of polycondensed fatty acids, such as Solsperse 17000 sold by the company Avecia, and polydimethylsiloxane / oxypropylene mixtures, such as those sold under the references DC2-5185 and DC2-5225 C by the company Dow Corning. The pigments used in the composition may be surface-treated with organic agents. According to a specific embodiment, the dispersant(s) are of aminosilicone type other than the alkoxysilanes previously described and are cationic. Preferably, the pigment(s) are chosen from mineral pigments, mixed mineral-organic pigments, or organic pigments.

[0866] According to one particular embodiment, the pigment(s) according to the invention are organic pigments, preferably organic pigments surface-treated with an organic agent chosen from silicone compounds.

[0867] According to another embodiment of the invention, the pigment(s) according to the invention are mineral pigments.

[0868] direct dyes

[0869] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the cosmetic active agent is a coloring agent chosen from one or more direct dyes.

[0870] The term "direct dye" means natural and / or synthetic dyes other than oxidation dyes. These are dyes that will spread superficially on the fiber. They can be ionic or nonionic, preferably cationic or nonionic.

[0871] Among the direct dyes suitable for the present invention, mention may be made of azo direct dyes; (poly)methine dyes, such as cyanines, hemicyanines and styryls; carbonyl dyes; azine dyes; nitro(hetero)aryl dyes; tri(hetero)arylmethane dyes; porphyrin dyes; phthalocyanine dyes and natural direct dyes, either alone or in mixtures.

[0872] The direct dye is preferably a cationic direct dye. Mention may be made of the following cationic hydrazine dyes of formula (A) and (B) and the following cationic azo dyes of formula (C) and (D):

[0873] Het + -C(Ra)=NN(Rb)-Ar,Q - (A)

[0874] Het + -N(Ra)-N=C(Rb)-Ar,Q - (B)

[0875] Het + -N=N-Ar,Q - (C)

[0876] Ar + -N=N-Ar”,Q - (D)

[0877] In formulae (A) to (D):

[0878] -Het + represents a cationic heteroaryl group, preferably carrying an intracyclic cationic charge, such as imidazolium, indolium or pyridinium, which is optionally substituted, preferably by at least one (C1-C8)alkyl group, for example methyl;

[0879] -Ar + represents an aryl group, for example phenyl or naphthyl, carrying an exocyclic cationic charge, preferably ammonium, in particular tri(C1-C8)alkylammonium, such as trimethylammonium;

[0880] -Ar represents an aryl group, in particular a phenyl group, which is optionally substituted, preferably substituted by one or more electron-donating groups, such as optionally substituted (C1-C8)alkyl, optionally substituted (C1-C8)alkoxy, (di)(C1-C8)(alkyl)amino, optionally substituted on the alkyl group(s) by hydroxy, aryl(C1-C8)alkylamino and optionally substituted N-(C1-C8)alkyl-N-aryl(C1-C8)alkylamino, or alternatively, Ar represents a julolidine group;

[0881] -Ar" represents an optionally substituted (hetero)aryl group, for example phenyl or pyrazolyl, which is optionally substituted, preferably by one or more (C1-C8)alkyl, hydroxy, (di)(C1-C8)(alkyl)amino, (C1-C8)alkoxy or phenyl;

[0882] - Ra and Rb, which may be the same or different, represent a hydrogen atom or a (C1-C8)alkyl group, which is optionally substituted, preferably substituted by a hydroxyl group;

[0883] Alternatively, the substituents Ra and Het + The substituents of and / or Rb and Ar together with the atoms carrying them form a (hetero)cycloalkyl group; in particular, Ra and Rb represent a hydrogen atom or a (C1-C4)alkyl group optionally substituted by a hydroxy group;

[0884] -Q - represents an organic or inorganic anionic counterion, such as a halide or an alkyl sulfate.

[0885] Mention may be made in particular of the azo and hydrazono direct dyes carrying an intracyclic cationic charge of formulae (A) to (D) as defined previously,

[0886] More particularly the cationic direct dyes carrying an intracyclic cationic charge described in patent applications WO 95 / 15144, WO 95 / 01772 and EP 714954,

[0887] Preferably, the direct dye is selected from the compounds of the following formulae (E) and (F):

[0888]

[0889] In formulas (E) and (F):

[0890] -R 1 represents a (C1-C4)alkyl group, such as methyl;

[0891] -R 2 and R 3may be the same or different and represent a hydrogen atom or a (C1-C4)alkyl group, such as a methyl group;

[0892] -R 4 represents a hydrogen atom or an electron-donating group, such as optionally substituted (C1-C8)alkyl, optionally substituted (C1-C8)alkoxy, or (di)(C1-C8)(alkyl)amino optionally substituted by hydroxy on (one or more) alkyl groups; in particular, R 4 It is a hydrogen atom;

[0893] -Z represents a CH group or a nitrogen atom, preferably CH;

[0894] -Q - is an anionic counterion as defined previously, in particular a halide such as chloride or an alkyl sulfate, for example methylsulfate or mesyl.

[0895] In particular, the dyes of formula (E) and (F) are selected from Basic Red 51, Basic Yellow 87 and Basic Orange 31 or derivatives thereof, wherein Q'(Q - ) is an anionic counterion as defined previously, in particular a halide such as chloride or an alkyl sulfate such as methylsulfate or mesyl. The direct dye may be selected from anionic direct dyes. The anionic direct dyes of the present invention are dyes which are usually referred to as "acidic" direct dyes due to their affinity for alkaline substances.

[0896] The term "anionic direct dye" means any direct dye comprising in its structure at least one CO2R' or SO3R' substituent, wherein R' represents a hydrogen atom or a cation derived from a metal or an amine or an ammonium ion.

[0897] Anionic direct dyes may be selected from direct nitro acid dyes, azo acid dyes, azine acid dyes, triarylmethane acid dyes, indoamine acid dyes, anthraquinone acid dyes, indigoid dyes and natural acid dyes.

[0898] Among the natural direct dyes that can be used according to the invention, mention may be made of lawsone, juglone, alizarin, purpurin, carminic acid, carminic acid, erythrogallol, protocatechaldehyde, indigo, isatin, curcumin, echinocetin, apigenin and orcein. Extracts or decoctions containing these natural dyes and in particular poultices or extracts based on henna may also be used.

[0899] Preferably, the direct dyes are selected from anionic direct dyes.

[0900] The coloring agents, preferably pigments, may be present in a concentration ranging from 0.01% to 30% by weight, preferably from 0.02% to 20% by weight and more particularly from 0.05% to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition containing them.

[0901] The direct dye(s) may be present in a concentration ranging from 0.001% to 10% by weight and preferably from 0.005% to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition containing them.

[0902] Preferably, cosmetic active agent(s), in particular colorant(s), and more in particular pigment(s), are introduced into at least one of the compositions "C1", "C2", "C3", "C4" or "C5".

[0903] Active agents for the care of keratin fibers

[0904] According to a particular embodiment, the method according to the invention employs b) one or more active agents for caring for keratin fibers, in particular the hair.

[0905] More specifically, in the method according to the invention, according to one embodiment, at least one of the compositions "C1", "C2", "C3", "C4" or "C5" used contains one or more active agents for caring for keratin fibers, preferably in a proportion of at least 0.01% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition in question. In particular, the caring active agent may be at least one hydrophilic active agent and / or one lipophilic active agent, and preferably a hydrophilic caring active agent.

[0906] The term "hydrophilic active agent" means a water-soluble or water-dispersible active agent capable of forming hydrogen bonds.

[0907] The cosmetic active agent(s) for hair care may be chosen in particular from active agents having an effect on the barrier function, antioxidant active agents, moisturizing active agents, sebum regulating active agents, active agents intended to combat the effects of pollution, antimicrobial or bactericidal active agents, fragrances, vitamins and their derivatives, in particular their esters, in particular tocopherol (vitamin E) and its esters (for example tocopherol acetate), and mixtures thereof.

[0908] Among the active agents for caring for keratin fibers, mention may in particular be made of antioxidant actives, moisturizing actives and sebum regulating actives.

[0909] The active agent(s) for caring for keratin fibers may especially be present in a composition containing them in a content ranging from 0.01% to 30% by weight and preferably from 0.02% to 25% by weight relative to the weight of the composition.

[0910] UV screening agents

[0911] According to one embodiment of the process according to the invention, at least one of the compositions "C1", "C2", "C3", "C4" or "C5" used comprises, as cosmetic active agent, at least one UV screening agent.

[0912] UV screeners are commonly used in cosmetics.

[0913] It may be selected from the positive list contained in Annex VI of Regulation (EC) No. 1223 / 2009, which specifies the list of UV screening agents allowed in cosmetic products.

[0914] The UV screening agents suitable for use in the present invention may be of different natures.

[0915] They can be lipophilic, hydrophilic or insoluble organic agents.

[0916] The term "lipophilic UV screening agent" is intended to mean any cosmetic or dermatological screening agent which is completely soluble in molecular form or which is soluble in colloidal form, for example in the form of micelles, in a liquid fatty phase.

[0917] The term "hydrophilic UV screening agent" is intended to mean any cosmetic or dermatological screening agent which is completely soluble in molecular form or which is soluble in colloid form, for example in the form of micelles, in a liquid aqueous phase.

[0918] The term "insoluble UV screening agent" is understood to mean any cosmetic or dermatological screening agent which is not defined as a lipophilic UV screening agent or a hydrophilic UV screening agent and which is in the form of particles in an aqueous or liquid fatty phase. The UV screening agent of the composition according to the invention can provide UVA and / or UVB photoprotection.

[0919] According to a preferred embodiment, the composition, which is preferably a cosmetic composition, may comprise at least one organic and / or inorganic UV screening agent (for screening out the UV radiation of the sun).

[0920] In particular, the UV screening agent(s) are selected from bis-resorcinol-based triazine derivatives, dibenzoylmethane derivatives, benzylidene camphor derivatives, and mixtures thereof. Organic UV screening agents may also be chosen from anthranilic acid derivatives; cinnamic acid derivatives; salicylic acid derivatives; benzophenone derivatives; phenylbenzotriazole derivatives; benzalmalonate derivatives, in particular those mentioned in patent US 5 624 663; phenylbenzimidazole derivatives; imidazoline; 4,4-diarylbutadiene derivatives; bis-benzoxazolyl derivatives, as described in patents EP 6 693 23 and US 2 463 264; para-aminobenzoic acid (PABA) derivatives; methylenebis(hydroxyphenylbenzotriazole) derivatives, as described in patent applications US 5 237 071, US 5 166355, GB 2 303 549, DE 197 26,184 and EP 893 119; benzoxazole compounds, for example as described in patent application EP 0 832 642, EP 1 027 883, EP 1 300 137 and DE 101 62 844; shielding polymers and shielding silicones, such as those described in particular in patent application WO 93 / 04665; dimers based on α-alkylstyrene, such as those described in patent application DE 198 55 649; 4,4-diarylbutadiene, such as those described in patent applications EP 0 967 200, DE 197 46654, DE 197 55 649, EP 1 008 586, EP 1 133 980 and EP 133 981; other merocyanine derivatives, such as those described in patent applications WO 04 / 006878, WO 05 / 058269 and WO 06 / 032741, and mixtures thereof.

[0921] According to a specific embodiment, the concentration of the organic UV screening agent in the composition is from 1% to 50% by weight, preferably from 1% to 40% by weight, for example from 5% to 35% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0922] The UV screening agent(s) may be an inorganic UV screening agent, which is typically a pigment. The pigment may or may not be coated.

[0923] Thus, the inorganic UV screening agent can be chosen from coated or uncoated pigments, and in particular coated titanium oxide pigments, silicone-treated titanium oxide, uncoated titanium oxide pigments, uncoated zinc oxide pigments, coated zinc oxide pigments, uncoated cerium oxide pigments, uncoated iron oxide pigments, coated iron oxide pigments and mixtures thereof.

[0924] According to a particular embodiment, compositions "C1" to "C5" do not contain inorganic UV screening agents.

[0925] According to a specific embodiment, the amount of inorganic UV screening agent(s) present in a composition "C1", "C2", "C3", "C4" or "C5" according to the invention may be from 0.01% to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition in which it is contained. It may range, for example, from 1% to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0926] According to a specific embodiment, at least one of the compositions "C1" to "C5" also comprises one or more organic UV screening agents and one or more inorganic UV screening agents.

[0927] According to a particular embodiment, the composition comprises a combination of UV screening agents as described in patent FR 2977490, patent application WO 2013 / 004777 or patent application US 2014 / 0134120.

[0928] Preferably, the methods and compositions "C1", "C2", "C3", "C4" or "C5" for treating keratin fibers, preferably hair, use or comprise one or more coloring agents chosen from pigments, direct dyes and mixtures thereof, preferably pigments; more preferably, the pigment(s) according to the invention are chosen from carbon black, iron oxides (especially yellow, red and black iron oxides) and micas coated with iron oxides, triarylmethane pigments (especially blue and violet triarylmethane pigments such as Blue 1 Lake), azo pigments (especially red azo pigments such as D&C Red 7), alkali metal salts of lithol red (for example the calcium salt of lithol red B), even more preferably red iron oxide, yellow iron oxide and azo pigments (especially red azo pigments such as D&C Red 7).

[0929] Fatty phase - fatty substances

[0930] According to a particular embodiment, the process of the invention also uses iv) one or more fatty substances, in particular one or more oils, preferably volatile oils.

[0931] In particular, at least one of the compositions "C1", "C2", "C3", "C4" or "C5" used in the method of the invention comprises a fatty phase.

[0932] In particular, at least one of the compositions "C1", "C2", "C3", "C4" or "C5" used in the method of the invention comprises one or more fatty substances different from compound i), in particular one or more oils, preferably volatile oils.

[0933] The term "oil" means a fatty substance that is liquid at room temperature (20°C) and atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg).

[0934] The term "hydrocarbon-based oil" means an oil that is essentially formed or even consists of carbon and hydrogen atoms and possibly oxygen and nitrogen atoms and does not contain any silicon or fluorine atoms. It may contain alcohol, ester, ether, carboxylic acid, amine and / or amide groups.

[0935] According to one embodiment of the invention, the oil(s) iv) are chosen from volatile oils, in particular:

[0936] - hydrocarbon-based oils containing 8 to 16 carbon atoms, in particular branched C8-C 16 Alkanes, in particular isoalkanes, more in particular isoalkanes (also called isoparaffins), preferably C 13 -C 16 Isoparaffins, isododecane, isodecane, isohexadecane, for example the oils sold under the trade names Isopar or Permethyl, alone or as a mixture, preferably isododecane (also known as 2,2,4,4,6-pentamethylheptane), straight-chain alkanes, in particular C 11 -C 16 Alkanes, alone or as a mixture, in particular hexane, decane, undecane, tridecane, isoparaffins, in particular n-dodecane (C 12 ) and n-tetradecane (C 14 ), undecane-tridecane mixture, n-undecane (C 11 ) and n-tridecane (C 13 ), and mixtures thereof, and also n-undecane (C 11 ) and n-tridecane (C 13 ) mixture, and volatile C5-C 12 Cyclic non-aromatic alkanes;

[0937] - short-chain esters containing a total of 3 to 8 carbon atoms, in particular ethyl acetate, methyl acetate, propyl acetate or n-butyl acetate;

[0938] - hydrocarbon-based oils of the structure R'1-OC(O)-O-R'2, wherein R'1 and R'2 independently represent a linear, branched or cyclic C4-C8 alkyl group, preferably a C4-C8 alkyl group, advantageously and more preferably chosen from dibutyl carbonate or dipentyl carbonate;

[0939] - ether oils of the formula R1-O-R2, wherein R1 and R2 independently of one another represent linear, branched or cyclic C4-C8 alkyl groups, preferably C4-C8 alkyl groups;

[0940] Silicone oils, in particular containing from 2 to 7 silicon atoms and optionally including alkyl or alkoxy groups containing from 1 to 10 carbon atoms, in particular polydimethylsiloxane, cyclopentadimethylsiloxane, dodecamethylpentasiloxane, cyclohexadimethylsiloxane, octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane, heptamethylhexyltrisiloxane, heptamethyloctyltrisiloxane, hexamethyldisiloxane, octamethyltrisiloxane, decamethyltetrasiloxane, dodecamethylpentasiloxane, and mixtures thereof, having viscosities of 5 and 6 cSt;

[0941] More preferably, the volatile oil(s) iv) is selected from C8-C 16 The alkane, in particular a branched alkane, is preferably isododecane.

[0942] In particular, at least one of the compositions "C1", "C2", "C3", "C4" or "C5" used in the method according to the invention comprises one or more non-volatile oils, preferably chosen from:

[0943] - non-volatile fluoro oils, in particular chosen from fluorinated polyethers, fluorosilicone oils and fluorosilicones;

[0944] - non-volatile silicone oils, in particular chosen from the non-volatile silicones with the following INCI names: dimethicone, dimethiconol, trimethylpentaphenyltrisiloxane, tetramethyltetraphenyltrisiloxane, diphenyl dimethicone, trimethylsiloxyphenyl dimethicone, phenyl trimethicone, diphenylsiloxyphenyl trimethicone; and also mixtures thereof;

[0945] - non-volatile non-polar hydrocarbon-based oils, in particular chosen from the following linear or branched compounds of mineral or synthetic origin: i) liquid paraffin, ii) squalane, isoeicosane, iii) linear saturated hydrocarbons, more particularly C 15 -C 28 Mixtures of hydrocarbons, in particular those having the INCI name (C 15 -C 19 )alkanes, (C 18 -C 21 )alkanes, (C 21 -C 28 ) mixtures of alkanes, iv) hydrogenated or non-hydrogenated polybutenes; v) hydrogenated or non-hydrogenated, preferably hydrogenated, polyisobutenes, vi) hydrogenated or non-hydrogenated polydecenes, vii) decene / butene copolymers, butene / isobutene copolymers and viii) mixtures thereof;

[0946] - non-volatile polar hydrocarbon-based oils chosen from:

[0947] i) Saturated, unsaturated, linear or branched C 10 -C26 Fatty alcohol, preferably monohydric alcohol; in particular, the C 10 -C 26 The alcohols are fatty alcohols (which are preferably branched when they contain at least 16 carbon atoms); preferably, the fatty alcohols contain from 10 to 24 carbon atoms and more preferably from 12 to 22 carbon atoms, such as, inter alia, lauryl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, 2-butyloctanol, 2-undecylpentadecanol, 2-hexyldecanol, isocetyl alcohol, octyldodecanol and mixtures thereof;

[0948] ii) triglycerides composed of fatty acid esters of glycerol, in particular the fatty acids of which may have a chain length ranging from C4 to C36 and in particular from C18 to C36, these oils being linear or branched and saturated or unsaturated; mention may be made, by way of example, of heptanoic or caprylic triglycerides, caprylic / capric triglycerides, vegetable oils such as wheat germ oil, sunflower oil, grapeseed oil, sesame seed oil, corn oil, almond oil, castor oil, shea butter, avocado oil, olive oil, soybean oil, sweet almond oil, palm oil, rapeseed oil, cottonseed oil, hazelnut oil, macadamia oil, jojoba oil, alfalfa oil, poppy oil, pumpkin seed oil, marrow oil, blackcurrant oil, evening primrose oil, millet oil, barley oil, quinoa oil, rye oil, safflower oil, candlenut oil, passionflower oil, musk rose oil oil), peanut oil, coconut oil, argan oil, passionflower oil, ginkgo oil; the liquid portion of shea butter and the liquid portion of cocoa butter; and mixtures thereof;

[0949] iii) linear aliphatic hydrocarbon-based esters of the formula RC(O)-OR', wherein RC(O)-O- represents a carboxylic acid residue containing 2 to 40 carbon atoms and R' represents a hydrocarbon-based chain containing 1 to 40 carbon atoms, an aliphatic hydrocarbon-based ester of an alkylene glycol, in particular ethylene glycol or propylene glycol; the total number of carbon atoms is in particular at least 10; which are especially chosen from isoamyl laurate, cetearyl octanoate, isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, isopropyl stearate or isopropyl isostearate, ethyl palmitate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, isostearyl isostearate, octyl stearate, isostearyl heptanoate, octanoic acid esters, capric acid esters or capric acid esters of alcohols or polyols Ricinoleic acid esters, for example propylene glycol dicaprylate, cetyl caprylate or tridecyl caprylate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, alkyl benzoates, polyethylene glycol diheptanoate, propylene glycol bis(2-ethylhexanoate) and mixtures thereof, hexyl laurate, neopentanoic acid esters, for example isodecyl neopentanoate, isotridecanol neopentanoate, isostearyl neopentanoate or 2-octyldodecanol neopentanoate, isononanoic acid esters, in particular isononyl isononanoate, isotridecanol isononanoate or octyl isononanoate, oleyl erucate, isopropyl lauroyl sarcosinate, diisopropyl sebacate, isocetyl stearate, isodecyl neopentanoate, isostearyl behenate or myristyl myristate;

[0950] iv) hydroxylated esters, in particular polyglyceryl-2 triisostearate;

[0951] v) aromatic esters, in particular tridecyl trimellitate, C 12 -C 15 alcohol benzoate, 2-phenylethyl benzoate, and butyloctyl salicylate;

[0952] vi) linear fatty acid esters having a total carbon number of 35 to 70, in particular pentaerythritol tetrapelargonate;

[0953] vii) C 24 -C 28 Esters of branched fatty acids or alcohols, in particular triisoarachidyl citrate, pentaerythritol tetraisononanoate, glyceryl triisostearate, tri(2-decyltetradecanoic acid)glyceryl, pentaerythritol tetraisostearate, polyglyceryl-2 tetraisostearate or pentaerythritol tetra(2-decyltetradecanoate);

[0954] viii) polyesters obtained by condensation of dimers and / or trimers of unsaturated fatty acids and diols, in particular those having the INCI names dilinoleic acid / butylene glycol copolymer or dilinoleic acid / propylene glycol copolymer; polyesters obtained by condensation of fatty acid dimers and diol dimers, in particular dimer dilinoleyl dimer dilinoleate;

[0955] ix) synthetic ethers containing 10 to 40 carbon atoms, in particular dioctyl ether;

[0956] x) dialkyl carbonates, the two alkyl chains may be identical or different, in particular dicaprylyl carbonate;

[0957] xi) vinylpyrrolidone copolymers, in particular vinylpyrrolidone / 1-hexadecene copolymers; and

[0958] xii) mixtures thereof;

[0959] - Non-volatile carbonate oils can be selected from carbonates of the formula R8-OC(O)-O-R9, wherein R8 and R9 can be the same or different and represent a linear or branched C4 to C 12 , and preferably C6 to C 10 Alkyl chain; the carbonate oil may be dicaprylyl carbonate (or dioctyl carbonate), bis(2-ethylhexyl) carbonate, dipropylheptyl carbonate, dibutyl carbonate, dineopentyl carbonate, dipentyl carbonate, dineoheptyl carbonate, diheptyl carbonate, diisononyl carbonate or dinonyl carbonate and is preferably dicaprylyl carbonate;

[0960] - oils known as non-volatile ether oils of the formula R1-O-R2, wherein R1 and R2 independently represent linear, branched or cyclic C6-C 24 Alkyl, preferably C6-C 18 Alkyl, and preferably C8-C 12 Alkyl. It is preferred that R1 and R2 are the same. Straight-chain alkyl groups that may be mentioned include hexyl, heptyl, octyl, nonyl, decyl, undecyl, dodecyl, tridecyl, tetradecyl, pentadecyl, hexadecyl, heptadecyl, octadecyl, nonadecyl, eicosyl, behenyl, docosyl, tricosyl and tetracosyl. Branched alkyl groups that may be mentioned include 1,1-dimethylpropyl, 3-methylhexyl, 5-methylhexyl, ethylhexyl, 2-ethylhexyl, 5-methyloctyl, 1-ethylhexyl, 1-butylpentyl, 2-butyloctyl, isotridecyl, 2-pentylnonyl, 2-hexyldecyl, isostearyl, 2-heptylundecyl, 2-octyldodecyl, 1,3-dimethylbutyl, 1-(1-methylethyl)-2-methylpropyl, 1,1,3,3-tetramethylbutyl, 3,5,5-trimethylhexyl, 1-(2-methylpropyl)-3-methylbutyl, 3,7-dimethyloctyl and 2-(1,3,3-trimethylbutyl)-5,7,7-trimethyloctyl. As cyclic alkyl groups, mention may be made of cyclohexyl, 3-methylcyclohexyl and 3,3,5-trimethylcyclohexyl, dilauryl ether, diisostearyl ether, dioctyl ether, nonylphenyl ether, dodecyldimethylbutyl ether, cetyldimethylbutyl ether and mixtures thereof.

[0961] Preferably, the non-volatile oil(s) are chosen from hydrogenated or non-hydrogenated polyisobutenes, preferably hydrogenated, in particular Range of non-volatile compounds; C 15 -C 19 Mixtures of alkanes, and linear aliphatic hydrocarbon-based esters of the formula RC(O)-OR', wherein RC(O)-O represents a carboxylic acid residue containing from 2 to 40 carbon atoms and R' represents a hydrocarbon-based chain containing from 1 to 40 carbon atoms, as previously defined, in particular isononyl isononanoate.

[0962] More preferably, the process of the present invention uses one or more hydrocarbon-based oils containing 8 to 16 carbon atoms, and in particular branched C8-C 16 Alkanes, especially isoalkanes, preferably C 13 -C 16 Isoparaffin, isododecane, isodecane, isohexadecane, alone or as a mixture, and more preferably isododecane.

[0963] According to a preferred embodiment, the process of the invention uses one or more fatty substances iv) different from the compound of formula (I), in particular at least one oil, preferably at least one volatile oil, more preferably at least one volatile oil based on hydrocarbons.

[0964] In particular, in at least one of the compositions "C1", "C2", "C3", "C4" or "C5" used in the process according to the invention, the amount of (one or more) oils different from compound i) is from 1% to 99% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, more particularly from 2% to 98% by weight, preferably from 3% to 97% by weight and still better still from 5% to 96% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0965] According to another particular embodiment, the process of the invention does not use any fatty substance iv) other than the compound of formula (I).

[0966] According to yet another embodiment, at least one of the compositions "C1", "C2", "C3", "C4" or "C5" used in the process according to the invention contains a mixture of fatty substances v) different from compound i) and is chosen from a mixture of at least one volatile oil (preferably a hydrocarbon-based oil) and at least one non-volatile oil (for example octyldodecanol).

[0967] Composition

[0968] Another object of the present invention is a composition, in particular a cosmetic composition, containing at least one compound chosen from the compounds of formula (Ia), (Ib), (Ic), (Id) and (Ie) as defined previously, and also salts, isomers and / or solvates (e.g. hydrates) thereof, more particularly a composition, especially a cosmetic composition, containing at least one compound of formula (Iic), (Iid) and (Iie) as defined previously.

[0969] Another subject of the present invention is a composition, in particular a cosmetic composition, containing at least one compound selected from the group consisting of compounds (8), (9), (10), (11), (12), (13) and (14) as defined previously, and also their salts, isomers and solvates.

[0970] Another subject of the present invention is a composition, in particular a cosmetic composition, containing at least one compound selected from the compounds of formula (I), (Ia), (Ib), (Ic), (Id) and / or (Ie) as defined above, and also their salts, isomers and / or solvates, such as hydrates, in addition to compounds (1) to (7) as defined above.

[0971] According to a particular embodiment, the method according to the invention for treating keratin fibers, preferably hair, uses water. Thus, according to this variant, at least one of the compositions "C1" to "C5" used in the method according to the invention contains water. According to this variant, the compositions "C1", "C2", "C3", "C4" and / or "C5" are aqueous or hydroalcoholic compositions.

[0972] According to a preferred embodiment, the method according to the invention for treating keratin fibers, preferably hair, does not use any water. Thus, according to this variant, compositions "C1", "C2", "C3", "C4" and / or "C5" are anhydrous compositions.

[0973] According to a specific embodiment, at least one of the compositions "C1", "C2", "C3", "C4" and / or "C5" comprises an isododecane / ethanol mixture, in particular in a volume ratio ranging from 1 / 99 to 99 / 1, more particularly from 5 / 95 to 95 / 5.

[0974] According to a specific embodiment, at least one of the compositions "C1", "C2", "C3", "C4" and / or "C5" comprises an isododecane / octyldodecanol mixture, in particular in a volume ratio ranging from 1 / 99 to 99 / 1, more particularly from 5 / 95 to 95 / 5.

[0975] According to a particular embodiment, at least one of the compositions "C1", "C2", "C3", "C4" or "C5" may be in the form of a water-in-oil emulsion or an oil-in-water emulsion.

[0976] According to a particular embodiment, the composition "C1", "C4" or "C5" may be in the form of an anhydrous, water-in-oil emulsion or an oil-in-water emulsion.

[0977] According to a specific embodiment, the composition "C4" is anhydrous. In particular, the composition "C4" is anhydrous and comprises at least one oil, in particular a volatile oil, preferably isododecane.

[0978] According to another specific embodiment, the composition "C4" comprises water. In particular, the composition "C4" comprises water and, optionally, at least one volatile or non-volatile oil, and / or at least one C1-C4 alcohol such as ethanol or isopropanol, and / or at least one non-volatile oil.

[0979] The compositions "C1" to "C5" used in the process of the invention may comprise, in addition to water, one or more solvents.

[0980] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the compound(s) of formula (I) as defined previously are employed in a medium containing at least one solvent other than water, preferably at least one polar and / or protic solvent.

[0981] According to this embodiment, the compositions "C1", "C2", "C3", "C4" and / or "C5" used in the process of the invention comprise one or more solvents other than water, preferably one or more polar and / or protic solvents.

[0982] Preferably, the composition "C1", "C2", "C3", "C4" and / or "C5" used in the process according to the invention comprises at least one polar and / or protic solvent chosen from monohydric alcohols containing 2 to 6 carbon atoms, in particular chosen from ethanol, propanol, n-butanol, isopropanol, isobutanol, tert-butanol, pentanol and hexanol, preferably n-butanol or ethanol, and even more preferably ethanol.

[0983] According to one embodiment, the compositions "C1", "C2", "C3", "C4" and / or "C5" used in the process of the invention contain one or more solvents other than water, in a content of less than 95% by weight, more preferably less than 92% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0984] According to one embodiment, the composition "C2", "C3" or "C4" is anhydrous.

[0985] According to another embodiment, the composition "C4" is aqueous.

[0986] Organic solvents that may also be mentioned include polyols miscible with water at room temperature (25° C.), in particular chosen from polyols containing in particular 2 to 10 carbon atoms, preferably 2 to 6 carbon atoms, such as glycerol, propylene glycol, 1,3-propanediol, butylene glycol, pentanediol, hexylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, diethylene glycol or diglycerol; polyol ethers, such as 2-butoxyethanol, propylene glycol monomethyl ether, diethylene glycol monoethyl ether or diethylene glycol monomethyl ether; and also aromatic alcohols, such as benzyl alcohol, and mixtures thereof.

[0987] According to a particular embodiment, the composition also comprises one or more polyols, in particular chosen from polyols containing in particular from 2 to 10 carbon atoms, preferably from 2 to 6 carbon atoms, preferably glycerol.

[0988] The composition "C1", "C2", "C3", "C4" or "C5" used in the method of the present invention may also contain one or more auxiliary agents commonly used in cosmetics, in particular selected from thickeners, film formers, gelling agents, trace elements, softeners, chelating agents, fragrances, alkalizing agents or acidifying agents, dispersants, preservatives, fillers, surfactants, anti-hair loss agents, anti-dandruff agents, free radical scavengers, propellants, polar additives and polymers, or mixtures thereof.

[0989] Another subject of the present invention is a composition, in particular a cosmetic composition, called "C3" composition, comprising i) at least one compound of formula (I) or (Ia), (Ib), (Ic), (Id) and / or (Ie) and / or even (Iic), (Iid) and / or (Iie) as defined previously, ii) at least one crosslinker, in particular as defined previously, and iii) at least one cosmetic active agent, in particular as defined previously, preferably chosen from a) colorants, preferably chosen from pigments, direct dyes and mixtures thereof, and more preferably chosen from pigments.

[0990] Another subject of the invention is the cosmetic use of a composition "C3" as defined previously for treating keratin fibres, in particular for caring for, shaping and / or colouring keratin fibres, preferably the hair.

[0991] Compositions "C1", "C2", "C3", "C4" or "C5" are generally suitable for application to keratin fibres, in particular to the hair, and therefore generally comprise a physiologically acceptable medium, i.e. a medium compatible with keratin fibres, in particular human keratin fibres such as the hair.

[0992] Preferred are cosmetically acceptable media, ie, media that have a pleasant color, odor, and feel and that do not cause any unacceptable discomfort (ie, stinging or tightening) that could tend to deter the user from applying the composition.

[0993] According to a particular embodiment, the composition "C1", "C2", "C3", "C4" or "C5" is in the form of a hair care product, in particular a hair coloring product or a styling product, in particular without coloring agents, such as a lacquer, or a styling product of the mousse or gel type.

[0994] Kit

[0995] According to yet another aspect thereof, the present invention also relates to a multi-compartment kit or device, in particular a cosmetic kit or device, comprising:

[0996] - at least one compartment containing i) at least one compound of formula (I) or (Ia), (Ib), (Ic), (Id) and / or (Ie) as defined previously, and optionally iii) at least one cosmetic active agent, in particular as defined previously, comprising in particular composition "C1" as defined previously;

[0997] at least one compartment, different from the compartment containing i), and containing ii) at least one crosslinking agent, in particular as previously defined, and optionally iii) at least one cosmetic active agent, in particular as previously defined, comprising in particular a composition "C4" as previously defined; and

[0998] - Optionally, at least one compartment, different from the compartment containing i) and ii), and containing iii) at least one cosmetic active agent (in particular as previously defined), which may be identical to or different from the active agent(s) optionally contained in the compartment containing i) and ii).

[0999] Preferably, the compartment comprising at least i), in particular composition "C1", does not comprise any crosslinking agent ii).

[1000] Preferably, the compartment comprising at least one crosslinker ii), in particular composition "C4", does not contain i) any compound of formula (I).

[1001] The present invention is illustrated in more detail by the examples presented below.Unless otherwise stated, the indicated amounts are expressed as mass percentages.

[1002] Example

[1003] Methods and measurements

[1004] Hair application

[1005] The hair coloring evaluation protocol is detailed below:

[1006] The evaluation was performed according to three different protocols: in 1 step, 2 steps or 3 steps, each on locks of natural hair containing 90% white hair strands.

[1007] a) Single-step solution

[1008] The compound of formula (I) carrying an acetoacetate functional group and the crosslinking agent are mixed together before application. The system remains fluid long enough to allow application to the substrate.

[1009] The composition is applied to dry natural hair locks containing 90% white hair at a rate of 1 gram of composition per gram of lock.

[1010] The tresses are left at room temperature for 5 minutes.

[1011] Then comb the locks and dry them with a hairdryer for 3 minutes.

[1012] The hair tresses are kept at room temperature at 80% relative humidity for 18 hours. The hair is evenly and intensely dyed.

[1013] b) Two-step approach

[1014] A first composition, called "base coat", is applied to a dry natural hair tress containing 90% white hair at a rate of 0.5 g of composition per gram of tress. The tress is then combed. This deposit is applied to the keratin material and then left at room temperature (25° C.) for 30 minutes.

[1015] After this first step, a second composition, called "top coat", is applied to the tresses at a rate of 0.5 g per gram of tresses.

[1016] After application, comb the tresses and dry them with a hairdryer.

[1017] The tresses were kept at room temperature in a ventilated cabinet for 24 hours. The hair was evenly and intensely dyed.

[1018] The locks thus coloured are then tested with several repeated shampooings according to the shampooing protocol described below, in order to assess the fastness (permanence) of the colouring obtained with respect to the shampooing.

[1019] c) Three-step plan

[1020] A first composition containing pigments delivered in a cosmetic solvent is applied to dry natural hair tresses containing 90% white hair strands at a rate of 0.5 g of composition per gram of tress and then left at room temperature (25° C.) for 1 minute.

[1021] A second composition, called "base coat", is applied to the colored tresses at a rate of 0.5 g of composition per gram of tress. The tresses are then combed and left at room temperature (25° C.) for 30 minutes.

[1022] After this second step, a third composition, called "top coat", is applied to the hair locks at a rate of 0.5 g per gram of hair locks.

[1023] After application, comb the tresses and dry them with a hairdryer.

[1024] The tresses were kept at room temperature in a ventilated cabinet for 24 hours. The hair was evenly and intensely dyed.

[1025] The locks thus coloured are then tested with several repeated shampooings according to the shampooing protocol described below, in order to assess the fastness (permanence) of the colouring obtained with respect to the shampooing.

[1026] Shampoo washing plan

[1027] The dyed tresses were combed, moistened with 35° C. water and then passed between the fingers five times for 5 seconds. The tresses were then squeezed dry between two fingers.

[1028] Standard shampoo (Garnier Ultra Doux) was evenly applied to the dyed tresses at a rate of 0.4 grams of standard shampoo per gram of tress, and gently massaged into the tresses for 15 seconds along their length from roots to ends (6 passes).

[1029] The tresses were then placed on a watch glass and allowed to sit for 1 minute.

[1030] Next, rinse the tress with water while passing it between your fingers (15 passes). Then squeeze the tress dry between two fingers before the next shampoo wash.

[1031] Once several shampoo washes have been tested, the tresses are combed and dried with a hairdryer.

[1032] Persistence Solutions

[1033] The permanence of the color of the hair locks was evaluated in the CIE L*a*b* system using a Minolta spectrophotometer CM3600A colorimeter (illuminant D65, angle 10°, including the specular component).

[1034] In the L*a*b* system, L* represents the intensity of a color, a* represents the green / red color axis, and b* represents the blue / yellow color axis.

[1035] The permanence of the coloring is evaluated by the color difference ΔE between the colored hair locks before shampooing and then after three or five shampooings according to the above regimen, 24 hours after the last application of the composition of formula (I) for the one-step regimen 1 or after the application of the "top coat" for the 2-step and 3-step regimens.

[1036] The lower the ΔE value, the longer lasting the color is relative to shampoo washing.

[1037] The ΔE value is calculated according to the following equation:

[1038] [Mathematical formula 1]

[1039]

[1040] In this equation, L*a*b* represents values ​​measured after dyeing the hair and after shampooing, and L0*a0*b0* represents values ​​measured after dyeing the hair but before shampooing.

[1041] Modeling application: Modeling evaluation program

[1042] The styling assessment scheme is detailed as follows:

[1043] 2 grams of a solution containing the following formula was sprayed onto a hair tress (90% natural white (NW) hair, length 20.5 cm). The hair tress was weighed before and after application. Approximately 0.5 grams of the composition was effectively deposited on the hair tress.

[1044] The tresses were wrapped around a curling brush (approximately 2 cm in diameter and 3 cm in length). The tresses were kept at room temperature of 25°C.

[1045] After 24 hours, the tresses were released from the curling brush and allowed to hang. The length of the tresses was then measured. After 24 hours of hanging, the length of the tresses was measured again.

[1046] A comparison of curl retention was made between the compositions according to the invention and the comparative compositions.

[1047] Example 1: Synthesis of castor oil with acetoacetate functional group (Compound 1)

[1048] The synthesis is represented by the following preparation scheme:

[1049]

[1050] 50 g of castor oil (sold by Interchimie) and 25.40 g of tert-butyl acetoacetate were placed in a 250 mL flask equipped with a mechanical stirrer, a thermometer and a distillation column. The reaction medium was heated in an oil bath at 130° C. After 7 hours, the reaction medium was cooled, placed in a 250 mL pear-shaped flask and heated on a rotary evaporator at 120° C. under continuous vacuum for 1 hour.

[1051] Example 2: Synthesis of Hydroxylated Castor Oil (Compound 2) with Acetoacetate Functional Group

[1052] The synthesis is represented by the following preparation scheme:

[1053] Step a):

[1054]

[1055] Step b):

[1056]

[1057] In step a), hydroxylated castor oil is prepared by adding 10 g of castor oil (sold by Interchimie), 9 g of 3-mercapto-1,2-propanediol (sold by Sigma-Aldrich) and 0.7 g of 2-hydroxy-2-methylpropiophenone (sold by Sigma-Aldrich) to 20 mL of ethyl acetate in a 250 mL round-bottom flask equipped with a magnetic stirrer and stirring under argon for 5 minutes. The reaction medium is then irradiated under a UV lamp (100 W, 365 nm) for 4 hours and then washed three times with water saturated with NaCl.

[1058] The organic phase was separated, dried over MgSO4, and then concentrated under vacuum. Finally, the solvent and traces of thiol and photoinitiator (2-hydroxy-2-methylpropiophenone) were removed by distillation under reduced pressure. The product obtained was used as is in the next step.

[1059] In step b), the hydroxylated castor oil is functionalized with acetoacetate groups: 10 g of the hydroxylated castor oil obtained in step a) and 12 g of tert-butyl acetoacetate are placed in a 250 mL round-bottom flask equipped with a magnetic stirrer. The reaction medium is heated in an oil bath at 130°C. After 4 hours, the reaction medium is placed under continuous vacuum for 1 hour. A yellow, viscous oil is obtained.

[1060] Example 3: Synthesis of epoxidized oil (Compound 3) with acetoacetate functional group

[1061] The synthesis is represented by the following preparation scheme:

[1062] Step a):

[1063]

[1064] Step b):

[1065]

[1066] In step a), 200 g of epoxidized oil (Vikoflex 7170 sold by Arkema), 50.4 g of lactic acid and 6.52 g of caffeine were placed in a 500 mL distillation column equipped with a mechanical stirrer, an argon inlet and a column. The reaction mixture was heated at 120°C for 5 hours to obtain a polyhydroxylated compound as a slightly yellowish viscous oil.

[1067] In step b), 165 g of the polyhydroxylated compound obtained in step a) and 116.74 g of tert-butyl acetoacetate were added to a 500 mL flask equipped with a mechanical stirrer, an argon inlet and a distillation column. The reaction medium is heated between 130° C. and 140° C. for 5 hours. After heating for 5 hours, the medium is placed under a vacuum of 50 mbar at 140° C. An orange viscous oil is obtained.

[1068] The resulting oil was diluted with ethyl acetate and washed three times with saturated sodium bicarbonate solution and then twice with water. The organic phase was filtered over MgSO4 and the ethyl acetate was then distilled off under reduced pressure on a rotary evaporator at 100° C. A pale orange viscous oil was obtained.

[1069] Example 4: Synthesis of soybean oil with acetoacetate functional group (Compound 4)

[1070] The synthesis is represented by the following preparation scheme:

[1071] Step a):

[1072]

[1073] Step b):

[1074]

[1075]

[1076] In step a), 10 g of soybean oil (Henry Lamotte Oils), 10 g of 3-mercapto-1,2-propylene glycol (sold by Sigma-Aldrich) and 0.8 g of 2-hydroxy-2-methylpropiophenone (sold by Sigma-Aldrich) are added to 25 mL of ethyl acetate in a 250 mL round-bottom flask equipped with a magnetic stirrer and stirred under argon for 5 minutes. The reaction medium is then irradiated under a UV lamp (100 W, 365 nm) for 4 hours and then washed three times with water saturated with NaCl. The organic phase is separated, dried over MgSO4, and then concentrated under vacuum. The solvent and trace amounts of mercaptan and photoinitiator are removed by distillation under reduced pressure.

[1077] In step b), 10 g of the hydroxylated soybean oil obtained in step a) and 14 g of t-butyl acetoacetate were placed in a 250 mL round-bottom flask equipped with a magnetic stirrer. The reaction medium was then heated in an oil bath at 130°C. After 4 hours, the reaction medium was cooled and placed under continuous vacuum for 1 hour to remove excess t-butyl acetoacetate. A yellow, viscous oil was obtained.

[1078] Example 5: Synthesis of an "acidic" oil (Compound 5) with an acetoacetate functional group

[1079] The synthesis is represented by the following preparation scheme:

[1080] Step a):

[1081]

[1082] Step b):

[1083]

[1084] Step c):

[1085]

[1086] In step a), 100 g of citric acid and 419 g of oleyl alcohol were placed in a 500 mL distillation column equipped with a mechanical stirrer. The reaction medium was heated using a heating mantle at 190°C for 7 hours and then at 220°C for 5 hours. The reaction was monitored by acid value. When the acid value was less than 5, the reaction was stopped.

[1087] In step b), 100g of acidic oil, 70g of 3-mercapto-1,2-propylene glycol (sold by Sigma-Aldrich company) and 5g of 2-hydroxy-2-methylpropiophenone (sold by Sigma-Aldrich company) obtained in a) are added to the 15mL ethyl acetate in the 250mL round-bottom flask equipped with a magnetic stirrer, and stirred under argon for 5 minutes. The reaction medium is then irradiated under a UV lamp (100W, 365nm) for 4 hours, and then washed three times with NaCl-saturated water. The organic phase is separated, dried over MgSO4, and then concentrated under vacuum. The solvent and trace mercaptan and photoinitiator (2-hydroxy-2-methylpropiophenone) are removed by distillation under reduced pressure.

[1088] In step c), 100 g of the hydroxylated acidic oil obtained in step b) and 100 g of tert-butyl acetoacetate are placed in a 250 mL round-bottom flask equipped with a magnetic stirrer. The reaction medium is heated in an oil bath at 130°C. After a 4-hour reaction, the reaction medium is placed under continuous vacuum for 1 hour. A brown, viscous oil is obtained.

[1089] Example 6: Synthesis of castor oil with acetoacetate functional group (Compound 6)

[1090] The synthesis is represented by the following preparation scheme:

[1091] Step a):

[1092]

[1093] Step b):

[1094]

[1095] In step a), 100g castor oil (sold by Interchimie), 17g 3-mercapto-1,2-propylene glycol (sold by Sigma-Aldrich) and 1g 2-hydroxy-2-methylpropiophenone (sold by Sigma-Aldrich) are added to 20mL ethyl acetate in a 250mL round-bottom flask equipped with a magnetic stirrer and stirred under argon for 5 minutes. The reaction medium is then irradiated under a UV lamp (100W, 365nm) for 4 hours and then washed three times with NaCl-saturated water. The organic phase is separated, dried over MgSO4, and then concentrated under vacuum. The solvent and trace mercaptan and photoinitiator (2-hydroxy-2-methylpropiophenone) are removed by distillation under reduced pressure.

[1096] In step b), 100 g of the hydroxylated castor oil obtained in step a) and 99 g of tert-butyl acetoacetate were placed in a 250 mL round-bottom flask equipped with a magnetic stirrer. The reaction medium was then heated at 130° C. in an oil bath (nominal temperature of 140° C.). After 4 hours, the reaction medium was placed under continuous vacuum for 1 hour. A yellow, viscous oil was obtained.

[1097] Example 7: Synthesis of mannitol dihexanoate (Compound 7) with acetoacetate functional group

[1098] The synthesis is represented by the following preparation scheme:

[1099] Step a):

[1100]

[1101] Step b):

[1102]

[1103] In step a), mannitol dihexanoate is obtained from mannitol under the conditions described in the publication Angew. Chem. Int. Ed. 2010, 49, 7695-7698.

[1104] After 64 hours at 45° C., the reaction medium is filtered and then concentrated under reduced pressure.The crude compound obtained after filtration and evaporation is then triturated in dichloromethane.

[1105] In step b), 4 equivalents of 2,2,6-trimethyl-1,3-dioxine-4-one in p-xylene were heated at 140° C. for 2 hours. Purification by silica gel chromatography gave the compound mannitol dihexanoate acetoacetate.

[1106] Example 8: Synthesis of Sucrose Palmitate (Compound 8) with Acetoacetate Functional Group

[1107] 100 g of sucrose palmitate (sold by Mitsubishi-Kagaku Foods Corporation) was added to SE Cosme C-1616) and 110 g of tert-butyl acetoacetate were placed in a 500 mL three-necked flask equipped with mechanical stirring and a distillation column. The mixture was heated to a temperature between 140°C and 150°C (set point on the oil bath) using an oil bath for 2 hours. The reaction mixture was then concentrated on a rotary evaporator at 140°C under continuous vacuum until constant weight was achieved.

[1108] Example 9: Synthesis of castor oil with acetoacetate functional group (Compound 9)

[1109] The synthesis is represented by the following preparation scheme:

[1110] Step a):

[1111]

[1112] Step b):

[1113]

[1114] Step c):

[1115]

[1116] In step a), 451 g of castor oil (sold by Interchimie) and 171 g of glutaric anhydride were placed in a 750 mL flask equipped with a condenser, a mechanical stirrer and an argon inlet. The reaction medium was heated in an oil bath to 150° C. (set point on the oil bath) for 5 hours. The reaction was monitored by NMR.

[1117] In step b), 600 g of castor oil modified with glutaric acid and 134 g of glycerol were introduced into a 500 mL distillation vessel equipped with a mechanical stirring assembly and an argon inlet. The reaction medium was heated using a heating mantle to 190° C. for 4 hours and then to 230° C. for 11 hours. The reaction was monitored via the acid value.

[1118] In step c), 600 g of glycerol-modified castor oil and 418 g of tert-butyl acetoacetate were introduced into a 1000 mL flask equipped with a distillation assembly, a mechanical stirrer and an argon inlet. The reaction medium is heated in an oil bath to 150° C. (set point on the oil bath) for 5 hours. The reaction medium is then placed on a rotary evaporator at 150° C. under continuous vacuum to remove unreacted tert-butyl acetoacetate.

[1119] Example 10: Preparation of Formulation A

[1120] Formulation A was prepared using the contents shown in the table below. The contents are expressed as weight percent relative to the total weight of the composition.

[1121] [Table 1]

[1122]

[1123] Table 1

[1124] Formulation A was prepared by briefly mixing the ingredients detailed in Table 1 using a Speed ​​Mixer (a mixing device that uses centrifugal force) at 3500 rpm and room temperature for 2 minutes.

[1125] Example 11: One-step hair coloring application of formula A

[1126] Formula A was applied according to the single-step hair application protocol described above. The evaluation results are summarized in the following table:

[1127] [Table 2]

[1128]

[1129] Table 2: Colorimetric measurements

[1130] The hair locks dyed according to the invention have a ΔE value of less than 2. It can thus be seen that the application of formula A according to the process of the invention allows very good color permanence to be obtained.

[1131] Example 12: Preparation of Formulation B

[1132] Formulation B was prepared using the contents indicated in the table below. The contents are expressed as percentages by weight relative to the total weight of the composition in question.

[1133] [Table 3]

[1134]

[1135]

[1136] Table 3

[1137] The "basecoat" and "topcoat" compositions were prepared by simply mixing the ingredients detailed in Table 3 using a high-speed mixer (a mixing device that uses centrifugal force) at 3500 rpm and room temperature for 2 minutes.

[1138] Example 13: Two-Step Hair Color Application of Formula B

[1139] Formula B was applied according to the two-step hair application protocol described above.

[1140] The evaluation results are summarized in the following table:

[1141] [Table 4]

[1142]

[1143] Table 4: Colorimetric measurements

[1144] The hair locks dyed according to the invention had a ΔE value of 0.2 after three shampooing washes and a ΔE value of 2.7 after five shampooing washes. It can thus be seen that the application of formula B according to the process of the invention allows to obtain very good color permanence.

[1145] In particular, visually, the red coloration appears unchanged between the coloration obtained immediately after the method of the invention and after three and five consecutive shampoo washes. Furthermore, the hair strands appear separated after the treatment and have a very pleasant feel.

[1146] Example 14: Preparation of Formulation C

[1147] Formulation C was prepared using the contents indicated in the table below. The contents are expressed as percentages by weight relative to the total weight of the composition in question.

[1148] [Table 5]

[1149]

[1150]

[1151] Table 5

[1152] "Basecoat" and "Topcoat" compositions were prepared by simply mixing the ingredients detailed in Table 5 using a Speed ​​Mixer (a mixing device that uses centrifugal force) at 3500 rpm and room temperature for 2 minutes.

[1153] Example 15: Two-Step Hair Color Application of Formula C

[1154] Formula C was applied according to the two-step hair application protocol described above.

[1155] The evaluation results are summarized in the following table:

[1156] [Table 6]

[1157]

[1158] Table 6: Colorimetric measurements

[1159] The hair locks dyed according to the invention have a ΔE value of less than 2. It can thus be seen that the application of formula C according to the process of the invention allows very good color permanence to be obtained.

[1160] In particular, visually, the red coloration appears unchanged between the coloration obtained immediately after the process of the invention and after three consecutive shampoo washes.

[1161] Example 16: Preparation of Formulation D

[1162] Formulation D was prepared using the contents indicated in the table below. The contents are expressed as percentages by weight relative to the total weight of the composition in question.

[1163] [Table 7]

[1164]

[1165] Table 7

[1166] "Basecoat" and "Topcoat" compositions were prepared by briefly mixing the ingredients detailed in Table 7 using a Speed ​​Mixer (a mixing device that uses centrifugal force) at 3500 rpm and room temperature for 2 minutes.

[1167] Example 17: Two-Step Hair Color Application of Formula D

[1168] Formula D was applied according to the two-step hair application protocol described above.

[1169] The evaluation results are summarized in the following table:

[1170] [Table 8]

[1171]

[1172] Table 8: Colorimetric measurements

[1173] The hair locks dyed according to the invention have a ΔE value of less than 2. It can thus be seen that the application of formula D according to the process of the invention allows very good color permanence to be obtained.

[1174] Example 18: Preparation of Formulation E

[1175] Formulation E was prepared using the contents shown in the table below. The contents are expressed as percentages by weight relative to the total weight of the composition in question.

[1176] [Table 9]

[1177]

[1178] Table 9

[1179] "Basecoat" and "Topcoat" compositions were prepared by briefly mixing the ingredients detailed in Table 9 using a Speed ​​Mixer (a mixing device that uses centrifugal force) at 3500 rpm and room temperature for 2 minutes.

[1180] Example 19: Two-Step Hair Color Application of Formula E

[1181] Formula E was applied according to the two-step hair application protocol described above.

[1182] The evaluation results are summarized in the following table:

[1183] [Table 10]

[1184]

[1185] Table 10: Colorimetric measurements

[1186] The hair locks dyed according to the invention have a ΔE value of less than 2. It can thus be seen that the application of formula E according to the process of the invention allows very good color permanence to be obtained.

[1187] Example 20: Preparation of Formulation F

[1188] Formulation F was prepared using the contents shown in the table below. The contents are expressed as percentages by weight relative to the total weight of the composition in question.

[1189] [Table 11]

[1190]

[1191]

[1192] Table 11

[1193] The compositions were prepared by briefly mixing the ingredients detailed in Table 11 using a Speed ​​Mixer (a mixing device using centrifugal force) at 3500 rpm and room temperature for 2 minutes.

[1194] Example 21: Three-step hair coloring application of Formula F

[1195] Formulation F was applied according to the three-step hair application protocol described previously.

[1196] The evaluation results are summarized in the following table:

[1197] [Table 12]

[1198]

[1199] Table 12: Colorimetric measurements

[1200] The hair locks dyed according to the invention have a ΔE value of less than 2. It can thus be seen that the application of formula F according to the process of the invention allows very good color permanence to be obtained.

[1201] Example 22: Preparation of Compositions G to Q

[1202] Compositions G to Q were prepared using the contents indicated in the table below. The contents are expressed as percentages by weight relative to the total weight of the composition in question.

[1203] [Table 13]

[1204]

[1205] Table 13

[1206] Example 23: Hair Styling Application of Compositions G to Q - Curl Evaluation Compositions G to Q were applied according to the hair styling regimen described above.

[1207] The results of the curl evaluation are summarized in the table below:

[1208] [Table 14]

[1209]

[1210] Table 14

[1211] It can be seen that, unlike the hair tresses treated with the comparative formulas G, I, K, M and P, the hair tresses treated according to the method of the invention with the formulas H, J, L, N, O and Q have a significantly improved shape of the curls, which appear sharper and closer together.

[1212] Furthermore, even after 24 hours, the hair tresses treated with the formulation according to the method of the invention experienced significantly less loss of curl shape than the control tresses.

[1213] Example 24: Preparation of Formulations R to T

[1214] Formulas R, R1, R2, S, S1, T, T1 and T2 comprising the compound of formula (I) according to the present invention and a cross-linking agent were prepared using the contents shown in the table below by simply mixing the ingredients detailed in Table 15 using a Speed ​​Mixer (a mixing device using centrifugal force) at 3500 rpm and room temperature for 2 minutes.

[1215] The content is expressed as a percentage by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[1216] [Table 15]

[1217]

[1218]

[1219] Table 15

[1220] Example 25: One-step hair coloring application of compositions R to T

[1221] Compositions R, R1, R2, S, S1, T, T1 and T2 are applied to dry natural hair tresses containing 90% white hair at a rate of 1 gram of composition per gram of tress.

[1222] The tresses were then combed and dried with a hairdryer for 1 minute 30 seconds, and a steam straightener (Rowenta brand Steampod) was then applied to the tresses in five passes at a temperature of 210°C.

[1223] The locks thus coloured are then tested with several repeated shampooings according to the shampooing protocol described above, in order to assess the fastness (permanence) of the colouring obtained with respect to the shampooing.

[1224] The results of the evaluation are summarized in the following table:

[1225] [Table 16]

[1226]

[1227]

[1228] Table 16: Colorimetric measurements

[1229] The hair tresses dyed with the compositions R, S, T according to the invention and the process according to the invention have lower ΔE values ​​than the hair tresses dyed with the comparative compositions R1-R2, S1-S2, T1-T2.

[1230] The composition according to the invention and the process according to the invention thus make it possible to obtain a coloured coating on the hair which provides improved durability to shampooing.

[1231] Example 26: Preparation of Composition U

[1232] Composition U was prepared using the contents indicated in the table below. The contents are expressed as percentages by weight relative to the total weight of the composition in question.

[1233] [Table 17]

[1234]

[1235] Table 17

[1236] Example 27: One-Step Hair Coloring Application of Composition U

[1237] Composition U is applied to dry natural hair tresses containing 90% white hair at a rate of 1 gram of composition per gram of tress.

[1238] The evaluation results are summarized in the following table:

[1239] [Table 18]

[1240]

[1241]

[1242] Table 18: Colorimetric measurements

[1243] The hair locks dyed according to the invention have a ΔE value of less than 2. It can thus be seen that the application of composition U according to the method of the invention allows very good color permanence to be obtained.

[1244] Example 28: Preparation of Compositions V to Y

[1245] Compositions V to Y comprising the compound of formula (I) according to the present invention and a crosslinking agent were prepared using the contents shown in the table below by simply mixing the ingredients detailed in Table 19 using a Speed ​​Mixer (mixing equipment using centrifugal force) at 3500 rpm and room temperature for 2 minutes.

[1246] The content is expressed as a percentage by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[1247] [Table 19]

[1248]

[1249]

[1250] Table 19

[1251] Example 29: One-step hair coloring application of compositions V to X

[1252] Compositions V, W or X are applied to sensitized keratin fibers (bleached natural hair with an alkaline solubility equal to 20%, designated SA20) at a rate of 1 gram of composition per gram of hair tress, then combed and dried with a hairdryer and then left to stand for 24 hours at room temperature in a ventilated cabinet.

[1253] The hair is evenly and intensely colored.

[1254] The locks thus coloured are then tested with several repeated shampooings according to the shampooing protocol described above, in order to assess the fastness (permanence) of the colouring obtained with respect to the shampooing.

[1255] The evaluation results are summarized in the following table:

[1256] [Table 20]

[1257]

[1258] Table 20: Colorimetric measurements

[1259] The hair locks dyed with compositions V, W and X according to the invention have low ΔE values ​​after 5 shampooings. It can thus be seen that the application of formulations V, W and X according to the process of the invention allows to obtain very good color permanence.

Claims

1. A method for treating, in particular cosmetically treating, keratin fibers, in particular for caring for, styling and / or coloring keratin fibers, preferably hair, comprising applying to said keratin fibers in one or more consecutive steps at least: i) one or more compounds of formula (I), and also optical or geometric isomers thereof and / or solvates thereof, such as hydrates, or compositions containing the same: In formula (I): -Z represents a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, conjugated or non-conjugated, acyclic or cyclic, aromatic or non-aromatic polyvalent C2 to C 40 , especially C3 to C 36 , hydrocarbon-based groups, Z may be replaced by one or more selected from -O-, -N(R a )-, -S-, -C(O)-, (hetero)cyclic ring, and combinations thereof; -AK1 represents a divalent saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched C1-C 12 , preferably C1-C6, more preferably saturated C1-C6, hydrocarbon-based chains; -AK2 represents a straight chain or branched chain, saturated or unsaturated, C1-C 40 A monovalent hydrocarbon-based chain, which is optionally substituted by one or more identical or different groups selected from -OR, -X-AK3-(OC(O)-C(R a )(R b )-C(O)-R4) v and / or the chain is optionally substituted with one or more selected from -O-, -S-, -C(O)-, one or more (hetero)cycles, and combinations thereof, in particular -OC(O)-, -C(O)-O- and / or -(hetero)cycle-O-(hetero)cycle-; -AK3 represents a divalent straight or branched, saturated or unsaturated C1-C 12 , preferably C1-C6, more preferably saturated C1-C6, even more preferably C1-C4, hydrocarbon-based chains; -R represents a hydrogen atom, a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C1-C6, preferably C1-C4, alkyl group, in particular a methyl group, or a group -C(O)-C(R a )(R b )-C(O)-R4; -X represents -O-, -S-, -OC(O)- or -C(O)-O-; -Y represents -OC(O)- or -C(O)-O-; - R4 represents a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C1-C6 monovalent hydrocarbon-based group, preferably a (C1-C4)alkyl group, in particular a methyl or tert-butyl group, more preferably a methyl group; -R a and R b may be the same or different and represent a hydrogen atom or a (C1-C4)alkyl group, preferably a hydrogen atom; -p represents an integer equal to 0 or 1; -m represents an integer equal to 0, 1, 2, 3 or 4; it is understood that when m is greater than 1, the groups -Y-AK2 are identical or different; -n represents an integer equal to 0, 1, 2, 3 or 4; it is understood that when n is greater than 1, the group -(O) t -(AK1) q -(OC(O)-C(R a )(R b )-C(O)-R4) u Same or different; -t represents an integer equal to 0 or 1; -q represents an integer equal to 0 or 1; -u represents an integer equal to 1, 2, or 3; -v represents an integer equal to 1, 2, or 3; It is understood that if q is equal to 0, then t is equal to 0, (m+n) is greater than or equal to 1, and the compound of formula (I) contains at least two groups -C(O)-C(R a )(R b )-C(O)-R4; and ii) optionally at least one cross-linking agent.

2. The process according to claim 1, wherein the one or more compounds of formula (I) and also their optical or geometric isomers and / or their solvates, such as hydrates, are such that: -Z represents a trivalent group -CH2-CH-CH2-; -p is equal to 0; -n is equal to 0; -m is equal to 3; -AK2 represents linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, C 12 -C 24 A monovalent hydrocarbon-based chain, which is optionally substituted by one or more identical or different groups selected from -OR, -X-AK3-(OC(O)-C(R a )(R b )-C(O)-R4) v and / or the chain is optionally substituted with one or more selected from -O-, -S-, -C(O)-, epoxides and combinations thereof, in particular interruptions by heteroatoms or groups of O-(CO)- or (CO)-O-; -Y、AK3、v、R、X、R4、R a and R b As defined in claim 1; It is understood that the compound contains at least two groups -C(O)-C(R a )(R b )-C(O)-R4.

3. The process according to claim 1 , wherein the one or more compounds of formula (I) and also their optical or geometric isomers and / or their solvates, such as hydrates, are such that: -p is equal to 0; -Z represents a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, preferably saturated, acyclic, multivalent C4 to C 24 , especially C6 to C 20 , more especially C 14 to C 20 , especially C 17 The hydrocarbon-based group, Z is also optionally replaced by one or more groups -[(O) t -(AK1) q -(OC(O)-C(R a )(R b )-C(O)-R4) u ] n replace; -n represents an integer equal to 0, 1, 2, 3 or 4; it is understood that when n is greater than 1, the group -(O) t -(AK1) q -(OC(O)-C(R a )(R b )-C(O)-R4) u The same or different; preferably, n is non-zero; -m is equal to 1; -AK2 represents a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, preferably saturated, C3-C8, especially C4 or C6, monovalent hydrocarbon-based chain, separated by one or more identical or different groups selected from -OR, -X-AK3-(OC(O)-C(R a )(R b )-C(O)-R4) v substituted by groups, preferably by one or more groups -OR; and / or the chain is optionally interrupted by one or more heteroatoms or groups selected from -O-, -S-, -C(O)-, one or more (hetero)cycles and combinations thereof, in particular -OC(O)-, -C(O)-O-, -(hetero)cycle-O-(hetero)cycle-, and is preferably not interrupted; -Y, AK1, AK3, t, q, u, v, R, X, R4, R a and R b As defined in claim 1; It is understood that the compound contains at least two groups -C(O)-C(R a )(R b )-C(O)-R4.

4. The process according to claim 1 , wherein one or more compounds of formula (I) and also their optical or geometric isomers and / or their solvates, such as hydrates, are such that: -p is equal to 0; -n+m is equal to 4, m is non-zero; -Z represents an unsubstituted and uninterrupted, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, preferably saturated and acyclic C2 to C 24 , especially C3 to C 10 , especially C3 tetravalent hydrocarbon-based groups; -AK2 independently represents a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, preferably saturated C 12 -C 24 , preferably C 16 -C 20 , especially C 18 a monovalent hydrocarbon-based chain, optionally substituted by one or more identical or different groups selected from -OR and -X-AK3-(OC(O)-C(R a )(R b )-C(O)-R4) v substituted by one or more groups -X-AK3-(OC(O)-C(R a )(R b )-C(O)-R4) v substituted; and / or the chain is optionally interrupted by one or more heteroatoms or groups selected from -O-, -S-, -C(O)-, one or more (hetero)cycles and combinations thereof, in particular -OC(O)-, -C(O)-O-, -(hetero)cycle-O-(hetero)cycle-, and preferably is not interrupted; -AK3 represents a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C1-C 12 , preferably a divalent hydrocarbon-based chain of C1-C6, more preferably a saturated C1-C6, even more preferably C2-C4, still better C3; -v as defined in claim 1; preferably v is equal to 2; -X as defined in claim 1; preferably, X represents a sulfur atom; -Y, AK1, u, t, q, R, R4, R a and R b As defined in claim 1; It is understood that the compound contains at least two groups -C(O)-C(R a )(R b )-C(O)-R4.

5. The process according to claim 1 , wherein the one or more compounds of formula (I) and also their optical or geometric isomers and / or their solvates, such as hydrates, are such that: -p is equal to 1; -Z represents a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, preferably saturated and acyclic polyvalent C 14 to C 24 , especially C 16 to C 20 , preferably C 17 The hydrocarbon-based group, Z is also optionally replaced by one or more groups -[(O) t -(AK1) q -(OC(O)-C(R a )(R b )-C(O)-R4) u ] n substituted, preferably unsubstituted; -AK2 represents a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, preferably saturated C 14 -C 30 , especially C 20 -C 29 A monovalent hydrocarbon-based chain, represented by one or more identical or different groups selected from -OR and -X-AK3-(OC(O)-C(R a )(R b )-C(O)-R4) v and / or the chain is optionally interrupted by one or more heteroatoms or groups selected from -O-, -S-, -C(O)-, one or more (hetero)cycles and combinations thereof, in particular -OC(O)-, -C(O)-O-, -(hetero)cycle-O-(hetero)cycle-, and is preferably interrupted by -OC(O)- or -C(O)-O-; -X is as defined in claim 1; preferably X represents a sulfur atom; -Y, AK1, AK3, n, m, v, t, q, u, R, R4, R a and R b As defined in claim 1; It is understood that the compound contains at least two groups -C(O)-C(R a )(R b )-C(O)-R4.

6. The process according to claim 1 , wherein one or more compounds of formula (I) and also their optical or geometric isomers and / or their solvates, such as hydrates, are such that: -p is equal to 0; -Z represents a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, preferably saturated and non-cyclic C2 to C 24 , especially C3 to C 10 , preferably a tetravalent hydrocarbon-based group of C4 or C5, Z is also replaced by one or more groups -[(O) t -(AK1) q -(OC(O)-C(R a )(R b )-C(O)-R4) u ] n substituted, n is preferably equal to 1; - n + m is equal to 4, and preferably m is equal to 3; -AK2 independently represents a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, preferably saturated C 14 to C 30 , preferably C 16 to C 24 , preferably C 17 A hydrocarbon-based chain, said chain being optionally substituted by one or more identical or different groups selected from -OR, -X-AK3-(OC(O)-C(R a )(R b )-C(O)-R4) v substituted by groups, preferably by one or more groups -OR; and / or the chain is optionally interrupted by one or more heteroatoms or groups selected from -O-, -S-, -C(O)-, one or more (hetero)cycles and combinations thereof, in particular -OC(O)-, -C(O)-O-, -(hetero)cycle-O-(hetero)cycle-, and is preferably not interrupted; - X is as defined in claim 1 and preferably X represents a sulfur atom; -Y, AK1, AK3, u, t, q, v, n, m, R, R4, R a and R b As defined in claim 1; It is understood that the compound contains at least two groups -C(O)-C(R a )(R b )-C(O)-R4.

7. The process according to claim 1 , wherein the one or more compounds of formula (I) and also their optical or geometric isomers and / or their solvates, such as hydrates, are such that: -p is equal to 0; -m is non-zero; -Z represents a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, conjugated or non-conjugated, preferably non-conjugated, acyclic or cyclic, aromatic or non-aromatic, preferably non-aromatic, divalent C2 to C 24 , especially C3 to C 12 The hydrocarbon-based group, the group Z is also one or more selected from -O-, -N(R a )-, -S-, -C(O)-, one or more 5- or 6-membered heterocycloalkyl groups, and combinations thereof; -AK2 represents a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, preferably saturated, C 14 -C 30 , preferably C 14 -C 24 , preferably C 17 a monovalent hydrocarbon-based chain, said chain being optionally substituted by one or more identical or different groups selected from -OR and -X-AK3-(OC(O)-C(R a )(R b )-C(O)-R4) v and / or the chain is optionally interrupted by one or more heteroatoms or groups selected from -O-, -S-, -C(O)-, (hetero)cycle and combinations thereof, in particular -OC(O)-, -C(O)-O- or -(hetero)cycle-O-(hetero)cycle-, preferably optionally interrupted by -OC(O)- or -C(O)-O- and more preferably not interrupted; - X is as defined in claim 1 and preferably X represents a sulfur atom; -Y, AK1, AK3, v, t, q, u, R, R4, R a and R b As defined in claim 1; It is understood that the compound contains at least two groups -C(O)-C(R a )(R b )-C(O)-R4.

8. The process according to claim 1 , wherein one or more compounds of formula (I) and also their optical or geometric isomers and / or their solvates, such as hydrates, are such that: -p is equal to 0; -Z represents a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, preferably saturated and non-cyclic C2 to C 24 , especially C3 to C 10 , preferably a tetravalent hydrocarbon-based group of C4 or C5, Z is also replaced by one or more groups -[(O) t -(AK1) q -(OC(O)-C(R a )(R b )-C(O)-R4) u ] n replace; - n + m is equal to 6, and preferably m is equal to 2; -AK2 represents a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, preferably saturated, C3-C8, in particular C4, C5 or C6, monovalent hydrocarbon-based chain; Y, AK1, AK3, t, q, u, v, R, X, R4, R a and R b As defined in claim 1 for formula (I); It is understood that the compound contains at least two groups -C(O)-C(R a )(R b )-C(O)-R4.

9. The process according to claim 1 , wherein the one or more compounds of formula (I) are selected from the following compounds of formula (Ia), and also their optical or geometric isomers and / or their solvates, such as hydrates: Z-(Y-AK2)3(Ia) In formula (Ia): -Z represents -CH2-CH-CH2-; -AK2 independently represents a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, C 12 -C 24 A monovalent hydrocarbon-based chain, which is optionally substituted by one or more identical or different groups selected from -OR and -X-AK3-(OC(O)-C(R a )(R b )-C(O)-R4) v and / or the chain is optionally interrupted by one or more heteroatoms or groups selected from -O-, -S-, -C(O)-, epoxides and combinations thereof, in particular OC(O)- and -C(O)-O-; -Y、AK3、v、R、X、R4、R a and R b As defined in claim 1; preferably, Y represents -OC(O); It is understood that the compound contains at least two groups -C(O)-C(R a )(R b )-C(O)-R4; 10. The treatment process according to claim 1, wherein the one or more compounds of formula (I) are selected from the following compounds of formula (Ib), and also their optical or geometric isomers and / or their solvates, such as hydrates: m (AK2-Y)–Z–[(O) t -(AK1) q -(OC(O)-C(R) a )(R b )-C(O)-R4) u ] n (Ib) In formula (Ib): -n+m is equal to 4, m is non-zero; m and n are as defined in claim 1; -Z represents an unsubstituted and uninterrupted, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, preferably saturated and acyclic C2 to C 24 , especially C3 to C 10 , preferably a tetravalent hydrocarbon-based group of C3; -AK2 independently represents a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, preferably saturated C 12 -C 24 , preferably C 16 -C 20 , preferably C 18 a monovalent hydrocarbon-based chain, said chain being optionally substituted by one or more identical or different groups selected from -OR and -X-AK3-(OC(O)-C(R a )(R b )-C(O)-R4) v substituted by one or more groups -X-AK3-(OC(O)-C(R a )(R b )-C(O)-R4) v substituted; and / or the chain is optionally interrupted by one or more heteroatoms or groups selected from -O-, -S-, -C(O)-, one or more (hetero)cycles and combinations thereof, in particular -OC(O)-, -C(O)-O- or -(hetero)cycle-O-(hetero)cycle-, and preferably is not interrupted; -AK3 represents a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C1-C 12 , preferably C1-C6, more preferably saturated C1-C6, even more preferably C2-C4, preferably C3 divalent hydrocarbon-based chain; -v as defined in claim 1; preferably, v is equal to 2; -X as defined in claim 1; preferably, X represents a sulfur atom; -Y, AK1, t, q, u, R, R4, R a and R b As defined in claim 1; It is understood that the compound contains at least two groups -C(O)-C(R a )(R b )-C(O)-R4.

11. The process according to claim 1 , wherein the one or more compounds of formula (I) are selected from the group consisting of compounds of formula (Ic) below, and also their optical or geometric isomers and / or their solvates, such as hydrates: m (AK2-Y)–ZH–[(O)t-(AK1) q -(OC(O)-C(R a )(R b )-C(O)-R4) u ] n (Ic) In formula (Ic): -Z represents a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, preferably saturated and acyclic polyvalent C 14 to C 24 , especially C 16 to C 20 For example, C 17 The hydrocarbon-based group, Z is also optionally replaced by one or more groups -[(O) t- (AK1) q -(OC(O)-C(R a )(R b )-C(O)-R4) u ] n substituted, preferably unsubstituted; -AK2 represents a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, preferably saturated C 14 -C 30 , preferably C 20 -C 29 a monovalent hydrocarbon-based chain, said chain being separated by one or more identical or different groups selected from -OR and -X-AK3-(OC(O)-C(R a )(R b )-C(O)-R4) v and / or the chain is optionally interrupted by one or more heteroatoms or groups selected from -O-, -S-, -C(O)-, one or more (hetero)cycles and combinations thereof, in particular -OC(O)-, -C(O)-O-, -(hetero)cycle-O-(hetero)cycle-, and is preferably interrupted by -OC(O)- or -C(O)-O-; - X is as defined in claim 1, and preferably X represents a sulfur atom; -Y, AK1, AK3, n, m, v, t, q, u, R, R4, R a and R b As defined in claim 1; It is understood that the compound contains at least two groups -C(O)-C(R a )(R b )-C(O)-R4.

12. The process according to claim 1 , wherein the one or more compounds of formula (I) are selected from the group consisting of compounds of formula (Id) below, and also their optical or geometric isomers and / or their solvates, such as hydrates: m (AK2-Y)–Z–[(O)t-(AK1) q -(O-C(O)-C(R a )(R b )-C(O)-R4) u ] n (Id) In formula (Id): - n + m is equal to 4, and preferably m is equal to 3; -Z represents a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, preferably saturated or acyclic C2 to C 24 , especially C3 to C 10 , in particular a C4 or C5 tetravalent hydrocarbon-based group, Z is also replaced by one or more groups -[(O) t -(AK1) q -(OC(O)-C(R a )(R b )-C(O)-R4) u ] n substituted, n is preferably equal to 1; -AK2 independently represents a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, preferably saturated C 14 -C 30 , preferably C 16 -C 24 , preferably C 17 a monovalent hydrocarbon-based chain, said chain being optionally substituted by one or more identical or different groups selected from -OR and -X-AK3-(OC(O)-C(R a )(R b )-C(O)-R4) v and / or the chain is optionally interrupted by one or more heteroatoms or groups selected from -O-, -S-, -C(O)-, one or more (hetero)cycles and combinations thereof, in particular -OC(O)-, -C(O)-O- or -(hetero)cycle-O-(hetero)cycle-, and preferably is not interrupted; X is as defined in claim 1 and preferably X represents a sulfur atom; Y, AK1, AK3, u, v, R, R4, R a and R b As defined in claim 1, It will be understood that these compounds contain at least two groups -C(O)-C(R a )(R b )-C(O)-R4.

13. The treatment process according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the one or more compounds of formula (I) are selected from the compounds of the following formula (Ie), and also their optical or geometric isomers and / or their solvates, such as hydrates: m (AK2-Y)–Z–[(O) t -(AK1) q -(OC(O)-C(R) a )(R b )-C(O)-R4) u ] n (Yes) In formula (Ie): -n+m is equal to 2, m is non-zero, and m is preferably equal to 2; n is as defined in claim 1; preferably, n is zero; -Z represents a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, conjugated or non-conjugated, preferably non-conjugated, acyclic or cyclic, aromatic or non-conjugated, preferably non-aromatic, C2 to C 24 , especially C3 to C 12 A divalent hydrocarbon-based group, wherein the group Z is further substituted by one or more selected from -O-, -N(R a )-, -S-, -C(O)-, one or more (hetero)cyclic rings and combinations thereof; preferably, Z represents a divalent group -(CH2) g -(Heterocyclic)-O-(CH2) h -(Heterocycle)-(CH2) j , wherein h represents 0, 1 or 2, preferably 0 or 1, g and j independently represent an integer between 1 and 3, preferably 1; (heterocycle) represents a divalent heterocyclic group (i.e., a heterocycle), preferably a heterocycloalkyl group, more particularly a divalent 5- or 6-membered heterocycloalkyl group, especially a divalent tetrahydrofuran group or a divalent tetrahydropyran group, the heterocycle being optionally substituted by one or more groups selected from -OR, wherein R is as defined in claim 1 and is especially substituted by -OH or -OC(O)-C(R a )(R b )-C(O)-R4 substitution; -AK2 represents a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, preferably saturated C 14 -C 30 , preferably C 14 -C 24 , preferably C 17 a monovalent hydrocarbon-based chain, said chain being optionally substituted by one or more identical or different groups selected from -OR and -X-AK3-(OC(O)-C(R a )(R b )-C(O)-R4) v and / or the chain is optionally interrupted by one or more heteroatoms or groups selected from -O-, -S-, -C(O)-, (hetero)cycle and combinations thereof, in particular -OC(O)-, -C(O)-O- or -(hetero)cycle-O-(hetero)cycle-, preferably optionally interrupted by -OC(O)- or -C(O)-O-, and more preferably not interrupted; -X as defined in claim 1; preferably, X represents a sulfur atom; -Y, AK1, AK3, v, t, q, u, R, R4, R a and R b As defined in claim 1; It is understood that the compound contains at least two groups -C(O)-C(R a )(R b )-C(O)-R4.

14. The treatment process according to claim 1, wherein the one or more compounds of formula (I) are selected from the following compounds, and also their optical or geometric isomers and / or their solvates, such as hydrates: Where W is a hydrogen atom or -C(O)-C(R a )(R b )-C(O)-R4, and the compound contains at least two groups -C(O)-C(R a )(R b )-C(O)-R4.

15. A treatment process according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein one or more compounds of formula (I) or (Ia), (Ib), (Ic), (Id) or (Ie) are present in the composition in an amount of 0.1 wt% to 99 wt%, preferably 1 wt% to 98 wt%, more preferably 5 wt% to 96 wt%, relative to the total weight of the composition.

16. Treatment method according to any of the preceding claims, comprising applying to the keratin fibers, preferably the hair, at least ii) a crosslinking agent, in particular chosen from (poly)amines, (poly)thiols, (poly)carbonyls, (poly)acrylates, metal alkoxides and metal (poly)(hydroxy)(C1-C6)alkylcarboxylates compounds and / or rare earth metal derivatives, and mixtures thereof, and preferably chosen from (poly)amines, (poly)carbonyls, (poly)acrylates and metal alkoxide compounds, and mixtures thereof.

17. Treatment method according to any one of the preceding claims, comprising applying to the keratin fibers at least ii) a crosslinking agent chosen from: A) a (poly)amine compound selected from the group consisting of: ia) chitosans such as poly (D-glucosamine), ib) polyetherdiamines, in particular polyethylene glycol α,ω-diamines with chain-terminal amine functions, ic) polyethertriamines, in particular polyetheramine (or Jeffamine), id) aminoalkoxysilanes, in particular APTES, ie) polyamine compounds NH2-alk-NH2, wherein alk represents a divalent C2-C 20 hydrocarbon-based chains, optionally interrupted by one or more heteroatoms chosen from -O-, -N(R)-, wherein R represents a hydrogen atom or a C1-C4-alkyl group, in particular spermidine and 4,7,10-trioxa-1,13-tridecanediamine, and if) polydialkylsiloxanes containing primary amine groups at the end of the chain or in the side chain, in particular polydimethylsiloxanes containing primary amine groups, more particularly bis(3-aminopropyl)-terminated poly(dimethoxysiloxane) (PDMS-diNH2) and amodimethicone containing amine groups in the side chain, more particularly bis-cetearyl amodimethicone; B) a (poly)thiol compound selected from the group consisting of: iia) polydialkylsiloxanes carrying thiol functional groups, and iib) alkoxysilanes carrying thiol functions, and in particular from iia) polydialkylsiloxanes carrying thiol functional groups, preferably from polydimethylsiloxanes containing thiol groups in the side chains, in particular mercaptopropyl groups, and more particularly from compounds of formula (XIII): R a -Si(R b )(R d )-O-[Si(R a )(R b )-O] m -[Si(R b )(ALK1-SH)-O] n -Si(R b )(R d )-R a (XIII) In formula (XIII): -R a and R b may be the same or different, preferably the same, and represent (C1-C4)alkyl, especially methyl, (C1-C4)alkoxy, especially methoxy, aryl, especially phenyl, aryloxy, especially phenoxy, aryl(C1-C4)alkyl, especially benzyl, or aryl(C1-C4)alkoxy, especially benzyloxy, preferably (C1-C4)alkyl, more preferably methyl, -R d represents (C1-C4)alkyl, especially methyl, (C1-C4)alkoxy, especially methoxy, aryl, especially phenyl, aryloxy, especially phenoxy, aryl(C1-C4)alkyl, especially benzyl, aryl(C1-C4)alkoxy, especially benzyloxy, or (C1-C6)alkyl substituted by (C1-C4)alkylamino, amino or thiol groups, preferably (C1-C4)alkyl, more preferably methyl, And preferably, R a 、R b and R d are identical and represent (C1-C6)alkyl, more preferably methyl, -ALK1 represents a linear or branched, optionally cyclic, saturated or unsaturated, divalent hydrocarbon-based chain comprising 1 to 100 carbon atoms, which is optionally interrupted by one or more heteroatoms such as oxygen, sulfur or nitrogen, in particular oxygen, a (thio)carbonyl group C(X) (wherein X represents O or S) or a combination thereof, in particular -O-, -OC(O)- or -C(O)-O-; preferably, ALK1 represents (C1-C6)alkylene, and more preferably (C1-C4)alkylene, even more preferably propylene, - n and m may be identical or different and represent an integer greater than 2, and in particular the values ​​of m and n are such that the weight average molecular weight of the polyorganosiloxane is between 1000 and 55000 g.mol -1 between; and C) (poly)acrylate compounds of formula (XIV): L[-Y-C(O)-C(R e )=CH2] q (XIV) In formula (XIV): - q represents an integer greater than or equal to 2, in particular n is between 2 and 10 and preferably between 2 and 5, inclusive, -L represents a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated or (hetero)cyclic, saturated or unsaturated, polyvalent (at least divalent) group, in particular comprising 1 to 500 carbon and / or silicon atoms, more particularly 2 to 40 carbon and / or silicon atoms, even more particularly 3 to 30 carbon and / or silicon atoms, preferably 6 to 20 carbon atoms; L is optionally replaced by one or more groups selected from O, S, N, Si, C(X), and combinations thereof, in particular -O-, -OC(X)-, -N(R)-C(X)-, -Si(R)- c )(R d )-O-, wherein R represents a hydrogen atom or a (C1-C6)alkyl group, in particular a methyl group; and / or L is optionally substituted by one or more groups selected from: -N(R a )R b and -(X') a -C(X)-(X”) b -R a ; wherein X, X' and X" may be the same or different and represent an oxygen or sulfur atom or a group N(R b ); a and b are 0 or 1, preferably the sum of a + b is 1; R a and R b may be the same or different and represent a hydrogen atom, a (C1-C6)alkyl group or an aryl (C1-C4)alkyl group, in particular a benzyl group, preferably R a and R b represents a hydrogen atom, and R c and R d may be the same or different and represent (C1-C6)alkyl, aryl(C1-C4)alkyl or (C1-C6)alkoxy, -R e represents a hydrogen atom or a (C1-C4)alkyl group, in particular a methyl group; preferably, R e represents a hydrogen atom, and -Y represents an oxygen atom or an amino group -N(H)-, preferably an oxygen atom, Preferably, Y is an oxygen atom and R e is a hydrogen atom, preferably, L represents a divalent or trivalent, preferably trivalent, hydrocarbon-based chain containing 1 to 8 carbon atoms, q is 2 or 3, preferably 3, and More preferably, the compound of formula (XIV) is trimethylolpropane triacrylate; D) a metal alkoxide selected from the group consisting of zirconium ethoxide (Zr(OC2H5)4), zirconium propoxide (Zr(OCH2CH2CH3)4), zirconium isopropoxide (Zr(OCH(CH3)2)4), zirconium butoxide Zr(OCH2CH2CH2CH3)4, zirconium tert-butoxide (Zr(OC(CH3)3)4), titanium ethoxide (Ti(OC2H5)4), titanium propoxide (Ti(OCH2CH2CH3)4), titanium isopropoxide (Ti(OCH(CH3)2)4), titanium butoxide (Ti(OCH2CH2CH2CH3)4), titanium tert-butoxide (Ti(OC(CH3)3)4), titanium 2-ethylhexoxide (Ti(OCH2CH(C2H5)(CH2)3CH3)4) and mixtures thereof, more preferably selected from the group consisting of zirconium propoxide, titanium propoxide, titanium butoxide and mixtures thereof, E) (poly)carbonyl compounds selected from the group consisting of saturated or unsaturated aromatic C5-C7 carbon rings, preferably aromatic such as phenyl, or non-aromatic and saturated such as cyclohexyl, more preferably unsaturated and aromatic such as terephthalaldehyde.

18. Treatment method according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein at least one cosmetic active agent iii) is also applied to the keratin fibers, preferably the hair, said one or more cosmetic active agents iii) being preferably chosen from: a) coloring agents, in particular selected from pigments, direct dyes and mixtures thereof, b) active agents for caring for keratin fibers, preferably hair, c) UV screening agents, and d) mixtures thereof; Preferably, the one or more cosmetic active agents iv) are chosen from a) colorants, preferably chosen from pigments, direct dyes and mixtures thereof; more preferably, the one or more pigments are chosen from carbon black, iron oxides, in particular yellow, red and black iron oxides and micas coated with iron oxide, triarylmethane pigments, in particular blue and violet triarylmethane pigments, in particular Blue 1 Lake, azo pigments, in particular red azo pigments, more in particular D&C Red 7, alkali metal salts of Lisol Red, in particular the calcium salt of Lisol Red B, and even more preferably red iron oxide, yellow iron oxide and azo pigments, in particular red azo pigments, more in particular D&C Red 7.

19. The treatment process according to claim 1 , further comprising using iv) at least one fatty substance, in particular at least one oil, preferably at least one volatile oil, more preferably a volatile oil selected from the group consisting of: - hydrocarbon-based oils containing 8 to 16 carbon atoms, in particular branched C8-C 16 Alkanes, in particular isoalkanes, more in particular isoalkanes (also called isoparaffins), preferably C 13 -C 16 Isoparaffins, isododecane, isodecane, isohexadecane, for example the oils sold under the trade names Isopar or Permethyl, alone or as a mixture, preferably isododecane (also known as 2,2,4,4,6-pentamethylheptane), straight-chain alkanes, in particular C 11 -C 16 Alkanes, alone or as a mixture, in particular hexane, decane, undecane, tridecane, isoparaffins, in particular n-dodecane (C 12 ) and n-tetradecane (C 14 ), undecane-tridecane mixture, n-undecane (C 11 ) and n-tridecane (C 13 ), and mixtures thereof, and also n-undecane (C 11 ) and n-tridecane (C 13 ) mixture, and volatile C5-C 12 Cyclic non-aromatic alkanes; - short-chain esters containing a total of 3 to 8 carbon atoms, in particular ethyl acetate, methyl acetate, propyl acetate or n-butyl acetate; - hydrocarbon-based oils of the structure R'1-OC(O)-O-R'2, wherein R'1 and R'2 independently represent a linear, branched or cyclic C4-C8 alkyl group, preferably a C4-C8 alkyl group, advantageously and more preferably chosen from dibutyl carbonate or dipentyl carbonate; - ether oils of the formula R1-O-R2, wherein R1 and R2 independently of one another represent linear, branched or cyclic C4-C8 alkyl groups, preferably C4-C8 alkyl groups; Silicone oils, in particular containing from 2 to 7 silicon atoms and optionally including alkyl or alkoxy groups containing from 1 to 10 carbon atoms, in particular polydimethylsiloxane, cyclopentadimethylsiloxane, dodecamethylpentasiloxane, cyclohexadimethylsiloxane, octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane, heptamethylhexyltrisiloxane, heptamethyloctyltrisiloxane, hexamethyldisiloxane, octamethyltrisiloxane, decamethyltetrasiloxane, dodecamethylpentasiloxane, and mixtures thereof, having viscosities of 5 and 6 cSt; More preferably, the one or more volatile oils iv) are selected from C8-C 16 The alkane, in particular a branched alkane, is preferably isododecane.

20. Treatment method according to any one of the preceding claims, in particular for the cosmetic treatment of keratin fibers, in particular for caring for, styling and / or coloring keratin fibers, preferably hair, comprising applying to the keratin fibers at least: a composition called "C1" comprising i) at least one compound of formula (I) or (Ia), (Ib), (Ic), (Id) and / or (Ie) according to any one of claims 1 to 14, and optionally iii) at least one cosmetic active agent, in particular a cosmetic active agent according to claim 18; preferably, composition "C1" does not comprise ii) any crosslinking agent; a composition, referred to as "C2", comprising i) at least one compound of formula (I) or (Ia), (Ib), (Ic), (Id) and / or (Ie) according to any one of claims 1 to 14, ii) at least one crosslinker, in particular according to any one of claims 16 and 17, and optionally iii) at least one cosmetic active agent, in particular according to claim 18; preferably, composition "C2" does not comprise iii) any cosmetic active agent; - a composition, designated "C3", comprising i) at least one compound of formula (I) or (Ia), (Ib), (Ic), (Id) and / or (Ie) according to any one of claims 1 to 14, ii) at least one crosslinker, in particular according to any one of claims 16 and 17, and iii) at least one cosmetic active agent, in particular according to claim 18; a composition, referred to as "C4", comprising ii) at least one crosslinker, in particular according to any one of claims 16 and 17, and optionally iii) at least one cosmetic active agent, in particular according to claim 18; preferably, composition "C4" does not comprise i) at least one compound of formula (I) or (Ia), (Ib), (Ic), (Id) and / or (Ie) according to any one of claims 1 to 14; and / or a composition called "C5" comprising iii) at least one cosmetic active agent, in particular a cosmetic active agent according to claim 18; preferably, composition "C5" does not comprise i) at least one compound of formula (I) or (Ia), (Ib), (Ic), (Id) and / or (Ie) according to any one of claims 1 to 14, and does not comprise ii) at least one crosslinker; It will be understood that the method uses i) at least one compound of formula (I) or (Ia), (Ib), (Ic), (Id) and / or (Ie) according to any one of claims 1 to 14, and that the compositions "C1", "C2", "C3", "C4" and "C5" may be anhydrous, aqueous, e.g. hydro-alcoholic, and / or contain one or more fatty substances iv), in particular fatty substances according to claim 19.

21. The treatment method according to the preceding claim, characterized in that It comprises a single step of applying to said keratin fibers either composition "C2" or composition "C3"; or two consecutive steps of applying to said keratin fibers two different compositions, preferably composition "C1" and then composition "C4".

22. A method for the cosmetic treatment of keratin fibers, in particular for the care, styling and / or coloring of keratin fibers, preferably the hair, comprising the successive application to the keratin fibers of at least: -i) at least one compound of formula (I) or (Ia), (Ib), (Ic), (Id) and / or (Ie) according to any one of claims 1 to 14, or a composition designated "C1" according to claim 20 or comprising the same, and optionally comprising iii) at least one cosmetic active agent, in particular a cosmetic active agent according to claim 18; and then - a composition, referred to as "C4", comprising ii) at least one crosslinker, in particular according to any one of claims 16 and 17, optionally iii) at least one cosmetic active agent, in particular according to claim 18; At least one of the compositions "C1" and / or "C4" contains at least one coloring agent, in particular a coloring agent according to claim 18, preferably at least one pigment, and more preferably the composition "C1" comprises at least one pigment.

23. Process according to any one of the preceding claims, characterised in that It is a cosmetic treatment used to style keratin fibers, preferably hair.

24. The treatment method according to any one of claims 1 to 22, characterized in that It is a cosmetic treatment for dyeing keratin fibers, preferably the hair.

25. A composition comprising: i) at least one compound of formula (I) or (la), (lb), (lc), (ld) and / or (le) according to any one of claims 1 to 14, in which m represents an integer equal to 1, 2, 3 or 4, ii) at least one crosslinker, in particular according to any one of claims 16 and 17, and iii) at least one cosmetic active agent, in particular according to claim 18, preferably chosen from a) colorants, preferably from pigments, direct dyes and mixtures thereof, and more preferably from pigments.

26. Cosmetic use of a composition according to claim 25 for treating keratin fibres, in particular for caring for, shaping and / or colouring keratin fibres, preferably the hair.

27. Compounds of formula (I), and also their optical or geometric isomers and / or their solvates, for example hydrates: In formula (I): -Z represents a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, conjugated or non-conjugated, acyclic or cyclic, aromatic or non-aromatic polyvalent C2 to C 40 , especially C3 to C 36 The hydrocarbon-based group, Z may be replaced by one or more selected from -O-, -N(R a )-, -S-, -C(O)-, (hetero)cyclic ring, and combinations thereof; -AK1 represents a divalent, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched C1-C 12 , preferably C1-C6, more preferably saturated C1-C6, hydrocarbon-based chains; -AK2 represents linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, C 12 -C 40 A monovalent hydrocarbon-based chain, which is optionally substituted by one or more identical or different groups selected from -OR, -X-AK3-(OC(O)-C(R a )(R b )-C(O)-R4) v and / or the chain is optionally substituted with one or more selected from -O-, -S-, -C(O)-, one or more (hetero)cycles, and combinations thereof, in particular -OC(O)-, -C(O)-O- and / or -(hetero)cycle-O-(hetero)cycle-; -AK3 represents a divalent straight or branched, saturated or unsaturated C1-C 12 , preferably C1-C6, more preferably saturated C1-C6, even more preferably C1-C4 hydrocarbon-based chains; -R represents a hydrogen atom, a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C1-C6, preferably C1-C4, alkyl group, in particular a methyl group, or a group -C(O)-C(R a )(R b )-C(O)-R4; -X represents -O-, -S-, -OC(O)- or -C(O)-O-; -Y represents -OC(O)- or -C(O)-O-; - R4 represents a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C1-C6 monovalent hydrocarbon-based group, preferably a (C1-C4)alkyl group, in particular a methyl group or a tert-butyl group, more preferably a methyl group; -R a and R b may be the same or different, and represent a hydrogen atom or a (C1-C4)alkyl group, preferably a hydrogen atom; -p represents an integer equal to 0 or 1; -m represents an integer equal to 1, 2, 3 or 4; it is understood that when m is greater than 1, the groups -Y-AK2 are the same or different; -n represents an integer equal to 0, 1, 2, 3 or 4; it is understood that when n is greater than 1, the group -(O) t -(AK1) q -(OC(O)-C(R a )(R b )-C(O)-R4) u Same or different; -t represents an integer equal to 0 or 1; -q represents an integer equal to 0 or 1; -u represents an integer equal to 1, 2, or 3; -v represents an integer equal to 1, 2, or 3; It is understood that if q is equal to 0, then t is equal to 0, (m+n) is greater than or equal to 1, and the compound of formula (I) contains at least two groups -C(O)-C(R a )(R b )-C(O)-R4; In addition to the following compounds: And preferably the compound of formula (I) is selected from the following compounds, and also their optical or geometric isomers and / or their solvates, such as hydrates: Where W is a hydrogen atom or -C(O)-C(R a )(R b )-C(O)-R4, and the compound contains at least two groups -C(O)-C(R a )(R b )-C(O)-R4.

28. The compound according to claim 27, which is selected from the compounds of the following formula (Ia), and also the optical or geometric isomers thereof and / or their solvates, such as hydrates: Z-(Y-AK2)3(Ia) In formula (Ia): -Z represents -CH2-CH-CH2-; -AK2 independently represents a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, C 12 -C 24 A monovalent hydrocarbon-based chain, which is optionally substituted by one or more identical or different groups selected from -OR and -X-AK3-(OC(O)-C(R a )(R b )-C(O)-R4) v and / or the chain is optionally interrupted by one or more heteroatoms or groups selected from -O-, -S-, -C(O)-, epoxides and combinations thereof, in particular OC(O)- and -C(O)-O-; -Y、AK3、v、R、X、R4、R a and R b As defined in claim 27; preferably, Y represents -OC(O); It is understood that the compound contains at least two groups -C(O)-C(R a )(R b )-C(O)-R4; In addition to the following compounds: And preferably the compound of formula (Ia) is selected from the following compounds, and also their optical or geometric isomers and / or their solvates, such as hydrates:

29. The compound according to claim 27, which is selected from the compounds of the following formula (Ib), and also the optical or geometric isomers thereof and / or their solvates, such as hydrates: m (AK2-Y)–Z–[(O) t -(AK1) q -(OC(O)-C(R) a )(R b )-C(O)-R4) u ] n (Ib) In formula (Ib): -n+m is equal to 4, m is non-zero; m and n are as previously defined for the compound of formula (I); -Z represents an unsubstituted and uninterrupted, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, preferably saturated and acyclic C2 to C 24 , especially C3 to C 10 , preferably a tetravalent hydrocarbon-based group of C3; -AK2 independently represents a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, preferably saturated C 12 -C 24 , preferably C 16 -C 20 , preferably C 18 a monovalent hydrocarbon-based chain, said chain being optionally substituted by one or more identical or different groups selected from -OR and -X-AK3-(OC(O)-C(R a )(R b )-C(O)-R4) v substituted by one or more groups -X-AK3-(OC(O)-C(R a )(R b )-C(O)-R4) v substituted; and / or the chain is optionally interrupted by one or more heteroatoms or groups selected from -O-, -S-, -C(O)-, one or more (hetero)cycles, and combinations thereof, in particular -OC(O)-, -C(O)-O- or -(hetero)cycle-O-(hetero)cycle-, and is preferably not interrupted; -AK3 represents a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C1-C 12 , preferably C1-C6, more preferably saturated C1-C6, even more preferably C2-C4, preferably C3 divalent hydrocarbon-based chain; -v as defined in claim 27; preferably, v is equal to 2; -X as defined in claim 27; preferably, X represents a sulfur atom; -Y, AK1, t, q, u, R, R4, R a and R b As defined in claim 27; It is understood that the compound contains at least two groups -C(O)-C(R a )(R b )-C(O)-R4; And preferably the compound of formula (Ib) is selected from the following compounds, and also their optical or geometric isomers and / or their solvates, such as hydrates:

30. The compound according to claim 27, which is selected from the compounds of the following formula (Ic), and also the optical or geometric isomers thereof and / or their solvates, such as hydrates: m (AK2-Y)–ZH–[(O)t-(AK1) q -(O-C(O)-C(R a )(R b )-C(O)-R4) u ] n (Ic) In formula (Ic): -Z represents a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, preferably saturated and acyclic polyvalent C 14 to C 24 , especially C 16 to C 20 For example, C 17 The hydrocarbon-based group, Z is also optionally replaced by one or more groups -[(O) t- (AK1) q -(OC(O)-C(R a )(R b )-C(O)-R4) u ] n substituted, preferably unsubstituted; -AK2 represents a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, preferably saturated C 14 -C 30 , preferably C 20 -C 29 a monovalent hydrocarbon-based chain, said chain being separated by one or more identical or different groups selected from -OR and -X-AK3-(OC(O)-C(R a )(R b )-C(O)-R4) v and / or the chain is optionally interrupted by one or more heteroatoms or groups selected from -O-, -S-, -C(O)-, one or more (hetero)cycles, and combinations thereof, in particular -OC(O)-, -C(O)-O- or -(hetero)cycle-O-(hetero)cycle-, and is preferably interrupted by -OC(O)- or -C(O)-O-; - X is as defined in claim 27, and preferably X represents a sulfur atom; -Y, AK1, AK3, n, m, v, t, q, u, R, R4, R a and R b As defined in claim 27; It is understood that the compound contains at least two groups -C(O)-C(R a )(R b )-C(O)-R4; And preferably the compound of formula (Ic) is selected from the following compounds, and also their optical or geometric isomers and / or their solvates, such as hydrates:

31. Composition, especially cosmetic composition, in particular for treating keratin fibres, in particular for caring for, shaping and / or colouring keratin fibres, preferably the hair, comprising at least one compound according to any one of claims 27 to 30.

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