Method for treating keratin materials using at least one oil having acetoacetate function and at least one cross-linking agent

Abstract

The present invention relates to a method for treating keratin materials, in particular the skin and / or lips and / or eyelashes and / or eyebrows, comprising applying to said keratin materials, in particular the skin and / or lips and / or eyelashes and / or eyebrows, at least the following in one or more successive steps: i) one or more compounds of formula (I), the present invention relates to compounds of Formula (I): wherein Z, AK1, AK2, Y, R4, Ra, Rb, p, m, n, t, q and u are as defined in the description, and optical or geometric isomers and / or solvates thereof, such as hydrates, or compositions containing them, ii) at least one cross-linking agent. (I)

Description

Technical Field

[0001] The invention relates more particularly to the field of cosmetics and in particular to the field of cosmetics for caring for and / or making up keratin materials, in particular the skin and / or lips and / or eyelashes and / or eyebrows.

[0002] Therefore, in particular, the aim is to propose a new treatment method, in particular a cosmetic treatment method, comprising applying an oil having acetoacetate functional groups and at least one crosslinking agent to keratin materials, in particular the skin and / or lips and / or eyelashes and / or eyebrows, which is most particularly advantageous in terms of its technical properties, in particular its resistance to deposits that can be obtained, and in terms of the sensory experience it offers to the user. Background Art

[0003] Cosmetics conventionally require the use of one or more film-forming polymers in order to obtain good deposition of these products on keratin materials and in particular to meet the expectations detailed below.

[0004] Therefore, in the field of makeup for skin and / or lips, it is particularly desirable to form a deposit that does not transfer upon contact with fingers or clothing. It should also have good staying power upon contact with water, especially rainwater, or during showering or even perspiration, and upon contact with sebum or, in the case of such deposits on the lips, even with fatty foods, especially cooking oils. Furthermore, such deposits must be comfortable or even lustrous.

[0005] For this purpose, dispersions of nanosized polymer particles are used in cosmetic products such as mascara, eyeliner, eyeshadow or lipstick, and in hair application products, and more particularly as film formers in their organic and especially oily phases.

[0006] However, the durability of prior art compositions over time is not satisfactory.

[0007] Compositions, especially film-forming cosmetic compositions, are known that contain at least one fatty phase and at least one copolymer obtained by polymerization of ethylenic monomers, some of which have specific groups (see, for example, WO 2022 / 136104). However, such compositions require the presence of a fatty phase, which can limit their application to certain applications. Moreover, these compositions do not necessarily meet the demand for naturalness expressed by some consumers.

[0008] Also known from patent EP 1 392 222 is the practice of using cosmetic compositions for the care and / or treatment of keratin materials, comprising a supramolecular polymer comprising a polymer backbone and at least two groups capable of forming at least three hydrogen bonds. However, with this alternative composition, the properties achieved in terms of long-lastingness over time or water resistance remain insufficient.

[0009] Also known from WO 2014 / 099108 are compositions and methods for forming deposits on keratin substrates with good persistence over time using compounds having acetoacetate functional groups and functionalized active agents for covalent bonding to keratin materials.

[0010] Furthermore, WO 06 / 042169 describes tissue adhesives for medical and veterinary applications which are formed by reacting polyhydroxy compounds derivatized with acetoacetate groups and / or polyamine compounds derivatized with acetoacetamide groups with amino-functional crosslinking compounds.

[0011] The synthesis of acetoacetate diester triglycerides is also described in WO 2016 / 164870.

[0012] However, in general, the above-mentioned treatments and methods do not make it possible to obtain a deposit on keratin materials, in particular on the skin and / or the lips, that meets all the above-mentioned requirements, namely a very good resistance to water and / or fatty substances, especially in the case of the lips, which is moreover pleasant for the user during application, which allows the glossiness of the deposit to be adjusted or which does not produce a visually unsightly, transparent and / or invisible (if not colored) deposit.

[0013] Furthermore, there is considerable consumer demand for compositions that reduce environmental impact. Summary of the Invention

[0014] There is therefore still a need for treatments, in particular cosmetic treatments, intended for application to keratin materials, in particular the skin and / or lips and / or eyelashes and / or eyebrows, which allow a film-forming, non-tacky deposit to be obtained which transfers little, if at all, and which is shiny, comfortable and long-lasting.

[0015] There is still a need for treatment methods, in particular cosmetic treatment methods, which enable a deposit to acquire very good persistence over time, said deposit being resistant to water and fatty substances, in particular sebum.

[0016] There remains a need for treatments, especially cosmetic treatments, that provide a deposit that has a lustrous and / or invisible feel.

[0017] The present invention is particularly directed to satisfying all or some of these needs. DETAILED DESCRIPTION

[0018] These problems are solved by carrying out a method for treating keratin materials, in particular a cosmetic method for treating keratin materials, in particular the skin and / or the lips and / or the eyelashes and / or the eyebrows, comprising applying to said keratin materials, in particular the skin and / or the lips and / or the eyelashes and / or the eyebrows, in one or more successive steps, at least: i) one or more compounds of formula (I), and the optical or geometric isomers thereof, and / or solvates thereof, such as hydrates, or compositions containing them: (I) In said formula (I): - Z represents a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, conjugated or non-conjugated, acyclic or cyclic, aromatic or non-aromatic, polyvalent C2-C 40 hydrocarbon-based radical, in particular a C3-C 36 hydrocarbon-based radical, Z can be interrupted by one or more radicals or heteroatoms chosen from -O-, -N(R a )-, -S-, -C(O)-, (hetero)cycles, and combinations thereof; - AK1 represents a divalent saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched C1-C 12 hydrocarbon-based chain, preferably a C1-C6 hydrocarbon-based chain, more preferentially a saturated C1-C6 hydrocarbon-based chain; - AK2 represents a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C1-C 40 monovalent hydrocarbon-based chain, optionally substituted with one or more identical or different radicals chosen from -OR, -X-AK3-(O-C(O)-C(R a )(R b )-C(O)-R4; v and / or said chain is optionally interrupted by one or more heteroatoms or radicals chosen from -O-, -S-, -C(O)-, (hetero)cycles, and combinations thereof, in particular -O-C(O)-, -C(O)-O- and / or -(hetero)cycles-O-(hetero)cycles-; - AK3 represents a divalent linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C1-C 12 hydrocarbon-based chain, preferably a C1-C6 hydrocarbon-based chain, more preferentially a saturated C1-C6 hydrocarbon-based chain, even more preferentially a C1-C4 hydrocarbon-based chain; - R represents a hydrogen atom, a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C1-C6 hydrocarbon radical, preferably a C1-C4 hydrocarbon radical, in particular a methyl radical, or a radical -C(O)-C(R a )(R b )-C(O)-R4; - X represents -O-, -S-, -OC(O)- or -C(O)-O-; - Y represents -OC(O)- or -C(O)-O-; - R4 represents a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C1-C6 monovalent hydrocarbon-based group, preferably a (C1-C4) hydrocarbon group, in particular a methyl group or a tert-butyl group, more preferably a methyl group; - R a and R b may be the same or different, and represent a hydrogen atom or a (C1-C4) alkyl group, preferably a hydrogen atom; - p represents an integer equal to 0 or 1; - m represents an integer equal to 0, 1, 2, 3 or 4; it is understood that when m is greater than 1, the groups -Y-AK2 are identical or different; - n represents an integer equal to 0, 1, 2, 3 or 4; it is understood that when n is greater than 1, the group -(O) t -(AK1) q -(OC(O)-C(R a )(R b )-C(O)-R4) u to be the same or different; - t represents an integer equal to 0 or 1; - q represents an integer equal to 0 or 1; - u represents an integer equal to 1, 2 or 3; - v represents an integer equal to 1, 2 or 3; It will be understood that if q is equal to 0 then t is equal to 0, (m + n) is greater than or equal to 1, and the compound of formula (I) contains at least two groups -C(O)-C(R a )(R b )-C(O)-R4; and ii) at least one cross-linking agent.

[0019] According to one preferred embodiment, the treatment method according to the invention also comprises applying at least iii) a cosmetic active agent to keratin materials, in particular to the skin and / or lips and / or eyelashes and / or eyebrows.

[0020] According to a preferred embodiment, the method according to the invention comprises applying i) at least one compound as defined above, its optical or geometric isomers, and / or its solvates, such as hydrates, or a composition containing them to a keratin material, applying ii) at least one crosslinking agent to the keratin material and iii) at least one cosmetic active agent to the keratin material, said keratin material being especially the skin and / or lips and / or eyelashes and / or eyebrows.

[0021] When present, the cosmetic active agent iii) may be applied simultaneously with i) and / or ii).

[0022] According to a particular embodiment, the keratin material, in particular the skin and / or lips and / or eyelashes and / or eyebrows, may be damp or wet before applying i) and / or ii) and possibly iii). For example, steps i), ii) and optionally iii) may be carried out on damp skin.

[0023] According to one embodiment, the method comprises applying i), ii) and optionally iii) to a damp or wet keratin material, in particular to the damp or wet skin and / or lips and / or eyelashes and / or eyebrows.

[0024] According to another embodiment, the method comprises applying i), ii) and optionally iii) to dry keratin materials, in particular dry skin and / or lips and / or eyelashes and / or eyebrows.

[0025] The inventors have therefore surprisingly found that the application of components i), ii) and optionally iii) to keratin materials, in particular the skin and / or lips and / or eyelashes and / or eyebrows, makes it possible to obtain a deposit on keratin materials, in particular the skin, which has good resistance to external attacking factors, such as water, oils, in particular edible oils, sweat and / or sebum, and which is therefore endowed with very good staying power over time.

[0026] Advantageously, the deposits obtained via the process according to the invention are also very comfortable. They are not sticky and do not transfer.

[0027] The application of components i), ii) and possibly iii) to keratin materials, in particular the skin and / or the lips and / or the eyelashes and / or the eyebrows, also advantageously provides a shiny deposit.

[0028] definition For purposes of the present invention, throughout this specification (including the claims), and unless otherwise indicated: The term "cosmetic active agent" is intended to mean an organic or organosilicon compound or an inorganic compound that can be incorporated into a cosmetic composition in order to impart an effect on keratin materials, whether this effect is immediate or provided through repeated application. Mention may be made, as examples of cosmetic active agents, of coloured or colourless, fluorescent or non-fluorescent compounds such as optical brighteners or UVA and / or UVB screening agents, care actives such as anti-aging actives or actives intended to provide benefits to keratin materials, in particular to the skin, such as actives with an effect on the barrier function, deodorant actives, antiperspirant actives, peeling actives, antioxidant actives, moisturizing actives, sebum regulating actives, actives intended to combat the effects of pollution, antimicrobial or bactericidal actives, fragrances and dyes such as direct dyes or pigments, preferably pigments.

[0029] Preferably, the cosmetic active agent is chosen from a) dyes chosen from pigments, direct dyes and mixtures thereof, b) active agents for caring for keratin materials, preferably the skin, c) UV-screening agents, and d) mixtures thereof.

[0030] - For the purposes of the present invention, the term "fatty substance" means an organic compound that is insoluble in water (solubility less than 5%, preferably less than 1% and even more preferably less than 0.1%) at normal temperature (25° C.) and atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg); furthermore, the fatty substance is soluble in organic solvents, for example in halogenated solvents such as chloroform or dichloromethane, lower alcohols such as ethanol or aromatic solvents such as benzene or toluene, under the same conditions of temperature and pressure.

[0031] - The term "(hetero)aryl" means an aryl group or a heteroaryl group.

[0032] - The term "(hetero)cycloalkyl" means a cycloalkyl group or a heterocycloalkyl group.

[0033] - An "aryl" or "heteroaryl" group or the aryl or heteroaryl part of a group may be substituted by at least one substituent carried on a carbon atom selected from: • C1-C6 (poly)(hydroxy)alkyl and preferably C1-C4 (poly)(hydroxy)alkyl; • Halogen atoms, such as chlorine, fluorine, or bromine; • Hydroxyl; • C1-C2 alkoxy; C2-C4 (poly)hydroxyalkoxy; • amino; • amino substituted by one or two identical or different C1-C6 alkyl groups, preferably C1-C4 alkyl groups; • acylamino (-N(R)-C(O)-R'), where the group R is a hydrogen atom; • C1-C4 alkyl and the group R' is a C1-C4 alkyl; carbamoyl ((R)2N-C(O)-), where the groups R can be identical or different and represent a hydrogen atom or a C1-C4 alkyl group; • alkylsulfonylamino groups (R'-S(O)2-N(R)-), in which the group R represents a hydrogen atom or a C1-C4 alkyl group and the group R' represents a C1-C4 alkyl group or a phenyl group; • aminosulfonyl ((R)2N-S(O)2-), where the radicals R can be identical or different and represent a hydrogen atom or a C1-C4 alkyl group; • a carboxyl group in acid form or in salified form (preferably salified with an alkali metal or substituted or unsubstituted ammonium); • cyano (CN); • Polyhalogenated (C1-C4)alkyl, preferably trifluoromethyl (CF3).

[0034] - The ring part or heterocyclic part of the non-aromatic group may be substituted by at least one substituent carried by a carbon atom selected from the following groups: • Hydroxyl, • C1-C4 alkoxy, C2-C4 (poly)hydroxyalkoxy; • alkylcarbonylamino groups ((RC(O)-NR'-), where the group R' is a hydrogen atom or a C1-C4 alkyl group and the group R is a C1-C2 alkyl group, an amino group substituted by one or two identical or different C1-C4 alkyl groups; • alkylcarbonyloxy ((RC(O)-O-), where the group R is C1-C4 alkyl, amino substituted by one or two identical or different C1-C4 alkyl groups; • Alkoxycarbonyl ((ROC(O)-), where the group R is C1-C4 alkyl, amino substituted by one or two identical or different C1-C4 alkyl groups; - Cyclic or heterocyclic groups, or the non-aromatic part of an aryl or heteroaryl group may also be substituted by one or more oxo groups.

[0035] - A hydrocarbon-based chain is unsaturated when it comprises one or more double bonds and / or one or more triple bonds.

[0036] - "Aryl" group means a monocyclic or fused or non-fused polycyclic hydrocarbon-based group containing 6 to 14 carbon atoms and at least one ring of which is aromatic; preferably, aryl is phenyl, biphenyl, naphthyl, indenyl, anthracenyl or tetrahydronaphthyl.

[0037] - "Heteroaryl" group represents a monocyclic or a fused or non-fused polycyclic 5-14 membered group comprising 1-6 heteroatoms selected from nitrogen, oxygen, sulfur and selenium atoms, and at least one ring of which is aromatic; preferably, the heteroaryl is selected from acridinyl, benzimidazolyl, benzobistriazolyl, benzopyrazolyl, benzopyridazinyl, benzoquinolinyl, benzothiazolyl, benzotriazolyl, benzoxazolyl, pyridinyl, tetrazolyl, dihydrothiazolyl, imidazopyridinyl, imidazolyl, indolyl, isoquinolinyl, naphthimidazolyl, naphthoxazolyl, naphthopyrazolyl, oxadiazolyl, oxazolyl, oxazolopyridinyl, phenazinyl, phenoxazolyl, pyrazinyl, pyrazolyl, pyrilyl, pyrazoyltriazyl, pyridinyl, pyridinoimidazolyl, pyrrolyl, quinolinyl, tetrazolyl, thiadiazolyl, thiazolyl, thiazolopyridinyl, thiazoylimidazolyl, thiopyrylyl, triazolyl and xanthenyl.

[0038] - "Cyclic" or "cycloalkyl" group is a monocyclic or a fused or non-fused polycyclic, non-aromatic cyclic hydrocarbon-based group containing 5-14 carbon atoms, which can include one or more unsaturations; cycloalkyl is preferably cyclohexyl.

[0039] - "Heterocyclic" or "heterocycloalkyl" group is a monocyclic or a fused or non-fused polycyclic 3-9 membered non-aromatic cyclic group comprising 1-4 heteroatoms selected from nitrogen, oxygen, sulfur and selenium atoms; preferably, the heterocycloalkyl is selected from epoxide, piperazinyl, piperidinyl, morpholinyl and dithiolane.

[0040] - "Alkyl" group is a linear or branched, in particular Ci-C6and preferably Ci-C4saturated hydrocarbon-based group.

[0041] - "Alkoxy" group is an alkyl-oxy group, wherein alkyl is a linear or branched Ci-C6and preferably Ci-C4hydrocarbon-based group.

[0042] - "(Poly)(hydroxy)alkyl" group represents a Ci-C6and preferably Ci-C4alkyl group, optionally substituted with one or more hydroxyl groups, preferably with 1-4 hydroxyl groups (more particularly between 1-3).

[0043] - "Sugar" group is a monosaccharide or disaccharide group. Sugar groups that can be mentioned include: sucrose, glucose, galactose, ribose, fucose, maltose, fructose, mannose, arabinose, xylose, lactose.

[0044] - The term "monosaccharide" means a compound of formula C x (H2O)x Mono-oside sugars containing at least 5 carbon atoms, wherein x is an integer greater than or equal to 5, preferably x is greater than or equal to 6, in particular x is between 5 and 7 (including the end values), preferably x is equal to 6; they may have D or L configuration and have α or β anomers; and salts thereof and solvates thereof such as hydrates.

[0045] - The term "disaccharide" refers to a diglycoside, which is a compound composed of two sugars linked together via an O-glycosidic bond, said compound being composed of two monosaccharide units (also called mono-osides) as defined above, said monosaccharide units comprising at least 5 carbon atoms, preferably 6; in particular, the monosaccharide units are linked together via 1,4 or 1,6 bonds to form α (alpha) or β (beta) anomers, each glycoside unit being able to have L or D configuration; as well as salts thereof and solvates thereof such as hydrates of said monosaccharides; more particularly, they are polymers formed from two sugars (or monosaccharides) having the following general formula: -[C x (H2O) y )]2- or -[(CH2O) x ]2-, wherein x is an integer greater than or equal to 5, preferably x is greater than or equal to 6, in particular x is between 5 and 7 (including the end values), preferably x is equal to 6, and y is an integer representing x-1.

[0046] - The term "polysaccharide" refers to a polysaccharide, which is a polymer composed of several sugars linked together by O-glycosidic bonds, said polymer being composed of monosaccharide units (also called monoglycosides) as defined above, said monosaccharide units containing at least 5 carbon atoms, preferably 6; in particular, the monosaccharide units are linked together by 1,4 or 1,6 bonds to form α (alpha) or β (beta) anomers, each glycoside unit being able to have L or D configuration; as well as salts thereof and solvates thereof such as hydrates of said monosaccharides; more particularly, they are polymers formed by a certain number of sugars (or monosaccharides) having the following general formula: - [C x (H2O) y )] w - or [(CH2O) x ] w -, wherein x is an integer greater than or equal to 5, preferably x is greater than or equal to 6, in particular x is between 5 and 7 (inclusive) and preferably x is equal to 6, and y is an integer representing x-1, and w is an integer greater than or equal to 2, in particular between 3 and 3000 (inclusive), more in particular between 5 and 2500, preferably between 10 and 2300, in particular between 15 and 1000 (inclusive), more in particular between 20 and 500, preferably between 25 and 200.

[0047] - "Anionic counterion" is an anion or anionic group associated with a cationic charge; more particularly, the anionic counterion is selected from: i) halides, such as chloride or bromide; ii) nitrates; iii) sulfonates, including C1-C6 alkylsulfonates: Alk-S(O)2O - , such as methanesulfonate or methanesulfonate and ethanesulfonate; iv) arylsulfonate: Ar-S(O)2O - , such as benzenesulfonate and toluenesulfonate or p-toluenesulfonate; v) citrate; vi) succinate; vii) tartrate; viiii) lactate; ix) alkyl sulfate: Alk-OS(O)O - , such as methyl sulfate and ethyl sulfate; x) aryl sulfate: Ar-OS(O)O - , such as benzene sulfate and toluene sulfate; xi) alkoxy sulfate: Alk-OS(O)2O - , such as methoxysulfate and ethoxysulfate; xii) aryloxysulfate: Ar-OS(O)2O - ; xiii) phosphate; xiv) acetate; xv) triflate; and xvi) borate, such as tetrafluoroborate.

[0048] - "Solvate" means hydrates and combinations with linear or branched C1-C4 alcohols, such as ethanol, isopropanol or n-propanol.

[0049] The term "UV-A screening agent" refers to a chromophore derived from a compound that screens (or absorbs) UV-A ultraviolet rays with a wavelength between 320 and 400 nm. A distinction can be made between short UV-A screening agents (which absorb rays with a wavelength between 320 and 340 nm) and long UV-A screening agents (which absorb rays with a wavelength between 340 and 400 nm).

[0050] - The term "UV-B screening agent" means a chromophore derived from a compound that screens (or absorbs) UV-B ultraviolet rays having a wavelength between 280-320 nm.

[0051] - The term "chromophore" means a chromophore derived from a substance capable of absorbing a wavelength λ abs Preferably, the chromophore is a group of colorless or colored compounds that absorb UV and / or visible radiation between 250 and 800 nm. Preferably, the chromophore is colored, i.e. it absorbs in the visible range, i.e. preferably at wavelengths between 400 and 800 nm. Preferably, the chromophore appears colored to the eye, in particular between 400 and 700 nm ( Ullmann's Encyclopedia, 2005, Wiley-VcH, Verlag “Dyes, General Survey”, §2.1 Basic Principle of Color); The term "anhydrous composition" means that the composition contains an amount of water of less than 5% by weight, preferably less than 3% by weight and better still less than 1% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition in question; even more preferably, the composition under consideration contains no water.

[0052] - The terms "colorant" and "dye" are equivalent.

[0053] - Unless otherwise mentioned, the expression "comprising a" should be understood as being synonymous with "comprising at least one".

[0054] - Unless otherwise stated, the expressions "between -", "comprising - to", "formed from" and "ranging from" are to be understood as including the limits.

[0055] It will be understood that the methods of treatment according to the present invention, and the compositions used, are non-therapeutic.

[0056] Details Treatment method A first subject of the present invention is a method for treating keratin materials, in particular the skin and / or lips and / or eyelashes and / or eyebrows, in particular the skin, using in one or more steps: i) at least one or more compounds of formula (I) as defined above and below, or a composition containing them; ii) at least one cross-linking agent, in particular a cross-linking agent as defined below; and ii) optionally at least one cosmetically active agent, in particular as defined below.

[0057] According to a particular embodiment of the present invention, the treatment method according to the invention comprises the simultaneous application of components i), ii) and optionally iii).

[0058] According to another particular embodiment of the invention, the treatment method according to the invention comprises at least two steps, in which ingredients i), ii) and optionally iii) are applied to keratin materials, in particular the skin and / or lips and / or eyelashes and / or eyebrows, in separate and sequential steps, it being understood that the cosmetic active agent iii) may be present together with ingredient i) and / or ingredient ii).

[0059] According to one particular embodiment, ingredient i) is applied to the keratin materials, in particular the skin and / or the lips and / or the eyelashes and / or the eyebrows, and ingredient ii) is then applied to said keratin materials, in particular the skin and / or the lips and / or the eyelashes and / or the eyebrows, it being understood that ingredient iii), when present, may be applied together with i) and / or ii).

[0060] According to another particular embodiment, ingredient ii) is applied to the keratin materials, in particular the skin and / or the lips and / or the eyelashes and / or the eyebrows, and ingredient i) is then applied to said keratin materials, in particular the skin and / or the lips and / or the eyelashes and / or the eyebrows, it being understood that ingredient iii), when present, may be applied together with i) and / or ii).

[0061] According to one particular embodiment of the invention, the method for treating, in particular cosmetically treating, keratin materials, in particular the skin and / or lips and / or eyelashes and / or eyebrows, is a cosmetic treatment method for caring for and / or making up keratin materials, in particular the skin, lips, eyelashes and / or eyebrows.

[0062] According to one embodiment of the invention, the method for treating keratin materials, in particular the skin and / or lips and / or eyelashes and / or eyebrows, using ingredients i), ii) and optionally iii) according to the invention is a skin care method.

[0063] According to one embodiment of the invention, the method for treating keratin materials, in particular the skin and / or lips and / or eyelashes and / or eyebrows, is a method for making up keratin materials, in particular the skin, lips, eyelashes and / or eyebrows. According to this embodiment, the method comprises at least one cosmetic active agent chosen from dyes, preferably pigments.

[0064] When the treatment method comprises several steps, including a step of using one or more compounds of formula (I), (Ia), (Ib), (Ic), (Id), (Ie), (IIc), (IId) and / or (IIe) without using a cross-linking agent, the compounds of formula (I), (Ia), (Ib), (Ic), (Id), (Ie), (IIc), (IId) and / or (IIe) can be used alone (pure) or in the composition "C1" as described below.

[0065] According to one embodiment of the invention, the method according to the invention is a method for treating, in particular cosmetically treating, keratin materials, in particular the skin and / or lips and / or eyelashes and / or eyebrows, in particular for caring for and / or making up keratin materials, in particular the skin, lips, eyelashes and / or eyebrows, which method comprises applying to said keratin materials, in particular the skin and / or lips and / or eyelashes and / or eyebrows at least: - a composition called "C1" comprising i) at least one compound of formula (I), or (Ia), (Ib), (Ic), (Id) and / or (Ie) as defined above and below, and optionally iii) at least one cosmetic active agent, in particular as defined above and below; preferably, composition "C1" does not comprise iii) a crosslinker; - a composition called "C2" comprising i) at least one compound of formula (I), or (Ia), (Ib), (Ic), (Id) and / or (Ie) as defined above and below, ii) at least one crosslinker, in particular as defined below, and optionally iii) at least one cosmetic active agent, in particular as defined above and below; preferably, composition "C2" does not comprise iv) a cosmetic active agent; - a composition called "C3" comprising i) at least one compound of formula (I), or (Ia), (Ib), (Ic), (Id) and / or (Ie) as defined above and below, ii) at least one crosslinker, in particular as defined below, and iii) at least one cosmetic active agent, in particular as defined above and below; - a composition called "C4" comprising ii) at least one crosslinker, in particular as defined below, and optionally iii) at least one cosmetic active agent, in particular as defined above and below; preferably, composition "C4" does not comprise i) at least one compound of formula (I), or (Ia), (Ib), (Ic), (Id) and / or (Ie) as defined above and below; and / or - a composition called "C5" comprising iii) at least one cosmetic active agent, in particular as defined above and below; preferably, composition "C5" does not comprise i) at least one compound of formula (I), or (Ia), (Ib), (Ic), (Id) and / or (Ie) as defined above and below, and does not comprise ii) at least one crosslinker; It will be understood that the process uses together or separately i) at least one compound of formula (I), or (Ia), (Ib), (Ic), (Id) and / or (Ie) as defined previously and hereinafter and ii) at least one crosslinking agent, in particular as defined below, and that the compositions "C1", "C2", "C3", "C4" and "C5" may be anhydrous, aqueous, such as hydro-alcoholic and / or contain one or more fatty substances iv), in particular the fatty substances iv) described below.

[0066] According to a particular embodiment, the method according to the invention is a method for treating, in particular for cosmetically treating, keratin materials, in particular the skin and / or lips and / or eyelashes and / or eyebrows, in particular for caring for and / or making up keratin materials, in particular the skin, lips, eyelashes and / or eyebrows, which method comprises applying to said keratin materials, in particular the skin and / or lips and / or eyelashes and / or eyebrows at least: - i) at least one compound of formula (I), or (Ia), (Ib), (Ic), (Id) and / or (Ie) as defined above and below, and optionally iii) at least one cosmetic active agent, in particular as defined above and below; - a composition called "C2" comprising i) at least one compound of formula (I), or (Ia), (Ib), (Ic), (Id) and / or (Ie) as defined above and below, ii) at least one crosslinker, in particular as defined below, and optionally iii) at least one cosmetic active agent, in particular as defined above and below; preferably, composition "C2" does not comprise iv) a cosmetic active agent; - a composition called "C3" comprising i) at least one compound of formula (I), or (Ia), (Ib), (Ic), (Id) and / or (Ie) as defined above and below, ii) at least one crosslinker, in particular as defined below, and iii) at least one cosmetic active agent, in particular as defined above and below; - a composition called "C4" comprising ii) at least one crosslinker, in particular as defined below, and optionally iii) at least one cosmetic active agent, in particular as defined above and below; preferably, composition "C4" does not comprise i) at least one compound of formula (I), or (Ia), (Ib), (Ic), (Id) and / or (Ie) as defined above and below; and / or - a composition called "C5" comprising iii) at least one cosmetic active agent, in particular as defined above and below; preferably, composition "C5" does not comprise i) at least one compound of formula (I), or (Ia), (Ib), (Ic), (Id) and / or (Ie) as defined above and below, and does not comprise ii) at least one crosslinker; It will be understood that the process uses together or separately i) at least one compound of formula (I), or (Ia), (Ib), (Ic), (Id) and / or (Ie) as defined previously and hereinafter and ii) at least one crosslinking agent, in particular as defined below, and that the compositions "C2", "C3", "C4" and "C5" may be anhydrous, aqueous, such as hydro-alcoholic and / or contain one or more fatty substances iv), in particular the fatty substances iv) described below.

[0067] According to one aspect of the invention, a method for treating keratin materials, in particular the skin and / or lips and / or eyelashes and / or eyebrows, in particular for caring for and / or making up keratin materials, in particular the skin, lips, eyelashes and / or eyebrows, uses a composition called "C3" comprising i) at least one compound of formula (I), or (Ia), (Ib), (Ic), (Id), (Ie), (Iic), (Iid) and / or (Iie) as defined above and below, ii) at least one crosslinker, in particular as defined above and below, and iii) at least one cosmetic active agent, in particular as defined below, in particular chosen from a) colorants, such as pigments, direct dyes and mixtures thereof, b) active agents for caring for keratin materials, preferably the skin, c) UV-screening agents, and d) mixtures thereof, and in particular at least one colorant, more particularly at least one pigment.

[0068] According to another aspect, the method according to the invention for treating keratin materials, in particular the skin and / or lips and / or eyelashes and / or eyebrows, in particular for caring for and / or making up keratin materials, in particular the skin, lips, eyelashes and / or eyebrows, uses a composition called "C1" comprising i) at least one compound of formula (I), or (Ia), (Ib), (Ic), (Id), (Ie), (Iic), (Iid) and / or (Iie) as defined above and below, and optionally iii) at least one cosmetic active agent, in particular as defined above and below, and a composition called "C4" comprising ii) at least one crosslinker, in particular as defined below, and optionally iii) at least one cosmetic active agent, in particular as defined above and below.

[0069] According to another aspect, the method according to the invention for treating keratin materials, in particular the skin and / or lips and / or eyelashes and / or eyebrows, in particular for caring for and / or making up keratin materials, in particular the skin, lips, eyelashes and / or eyebrows, uses i) at least one compound of formula (I), or (Ia), (Ib), (Ic), (Id), (Ie), (Iic), (Iid) and / or (Iie) as defined above and below, and a composition, referred to as "C4", comprising ii) at least one crosslinker, in particular as defined below, and optionally iii) at least one cosmetic active agent, in particular as defined above and below.

[0070] According to another aspect, the method according to the invention for treating keratin materials, in particular the skin and / or lips and / or eyelashes and / or eyebrows, in particular for caring for and / or making up keratin materials, in particular the skin, lips, eyelashes and / or eyebrows, uses a composition designated “C1” comprising i) at least one compound of formula (I), or (Ia), (Ib), (Ic), (Id), (Ie), (Iic), (Iid) and / or (Iie) as defined above and below, and optionally iii) at least one cosmetic active agent, in particular as defined above and below, and a composition designated “C4” comprising ii) at least one crosslinking agent, in particular as defined below, and optionally iii) at least one crosslinking agent, in particular as defined above and below, and a composition designated “C5”. at least one cosmetic active agent, in particular as defined above and below, and said composition "C5" comprises iii) at least one cosmetic active agent, in particular as defined above and below.

[0071] According to another aspect, the method according to the invention for treating keratin materials, in particular the skin and / or lips and / or eyelashes and / or eyebrows, in particular for caring for and / or making up keratin materials, in particular the skin, lips, eyelashes and / or eyebrows, uses a composition called "C2" comprising i) at least one compound of formula (I), or (Ia), (Ib), (Ic), (Id), (Ie), (Iic), (Iid) and / or (Iie) as defined above and below, ii) at least one crosslinker, in particular as defined below, and optionally iii) at least one cosmetic active agent, in particular as defined above and below, and a composition called "C5" comprising iii) at least one cosmetic active agent, in particular as defined above and below.

[0072] According to one variant of the process according to the invention, during a first step, ingredients i) and optionally iii) are applied together, i.e. simultaneously, to keratin materials, in particular the skin and / or lips and / or eyelashes and / or eyebrows, and then, during a subsequent step, ingredients ii) and optionally iii) are applied to said keratin materials, in particular the skin and / or lips and / or eyelashes and / or eyebrows.

[0073] According to one particular embodiment, the method according to the invention comprises two successive steps in which two different compositions, preferably composition "C1" and then composition "C4", are applied to keratin materials, in particular the skin and / or lips and / or eyelashes and / or eyebrows.

[0074] According to one particular embodiment of the method, during a first step, composition "C1" or i) at least one compound of formula (I), or (Ia), (Ib), (Ic), (Id), (Ie), (Iic), (Iid) and / or (Iie) as defined previously and hereinafter is applied to keratin materials, in particular the skin and / or lips and / or eyelashes and / or eyebrows, and then composition "C4" is applied to said keratin materials, in particular the skin and / or lips and / or eyelashes and / or eyebrows.

[0075] According to yet another variant of the method of the invention, component ii) and optionally iii) are applied to keratin materials, in particular the skin and / or lips and / or eyelashes and / or eyebrows, and then component i) and optionally iii) at least one cosmetic active agent, in particular as defined above, are applied to said keratin materials, in particular the skin and / or lips and / or eyelashes and / or eyebrows. In particular, composition "C4" is applied to keratin materials, in particular the skin and / or lips and / or eyelashes and / or eyebrows, and then composition "C1" or i) at least one compound of formula (I), or (Ia), (Ib), (Ic), (Id), (Ie), (Iic), (Iid) and / or (Iie) as defined above and below is applied.

[0076] According to another variant of the method of the invention, i) at least one compound of formula (I), or (Ia), (Ib), (Ic), (Id), (Ie), (Iic), (Iid) and / or (Iie) as defined above and below or a composition "C1" containing i) and optionally iii) is administered, and sequentially a composition "C4" containing ii) and optionally iii) is administered, preferably i) or composition "C1" is administered before composition "C4".

[0077] The compositions "C1", "C2", "C3", "C4" and / or "C5" according to the process of the invention comprising at least one fatty substance iv), in particular at least one oil, may be in the form of a normal emulsion or an inverse emulsion.

[0078] Thus, the compositions "C1", "C2", "C3", "C4" and / or "C5" according to the method of the invention can be applied directly to keratin materials, in particular the skin and / or lips and / or eyelashes and / or eyebrows, or can even be formed directly on the surface of keratin materials, in particular the skin and / or lips and / or eyelashes and / or eyebrows.

[0079] According to the invention, a distinction is therefore made between three application methods referred to as "one-gesture application mode", "two-gesture application mode" and "three-gesture application mode".

[0080] According to one embodiment of the method of the invention, the method is carried out in one step by applying a composition "C2" or "C3" as previously defined to keratin materials, in particular to the skin and / or lips and / or eyelashes and / or eyebrows.

[0081] Thus, according to one embodiment, the treatment method according to the invention comprises a single step of applying composition "C2" or composition "C3" to keratin materials, in particular the skin and / or lips and / or eyelashes and / or eyebrows.

[0082] The term "one-step application mode" means applying a single composition according to the invention (ie composition "C2" or composition "C3") directly to the target keratin material, in particular the target skin and / or lips and / or eyelashes and / or eyebrows.

[0083] After application of composition "C2" or composition "C3", a long-lasting, non-sticky deposit is advantageously obtained. The deposit obtained is also resistant to edible oils, water, sebum and / or friction.

[0084] According to another embodiment of the process according to the invention, the process is carried out in two steps.

[0085] The term "two-step application mode" means that two different compositions (for example "C1" and "C4", or "C2" and "C4", or "C3" and "C4", preferably "C1" and then "C4", "C2" and then "C4", or "C3" and then "C4") are applied sequentially to keratin materials, in particular the skin and / or lips and / or eyelashes and / or eyebrows.

[0086] The term "two-step application mode" also means that i) at least one compound of formula (I), or (Ia), (Ib), (Ic), (Id), (Ie), (Iic), (Iid) and / or (Iie) as defined above and below, and composition "C4", preferably i) and then "C4" are applied sequentially to keratin materials, in particular to the skin and / or lips and / or eyelashes and / or eyebrows.

[0087] According to another embodiment, the process of the invention is carried out in three steps.

[0088] The term "three-step application mode" means the sequential application of three different compositions selected from "C1", "C2", "C4" and "C5". For example, according to one embodiment, according to this application mode, keratin materials, in particular skin and / or lips and / or eyelashes and / or eyebrows, are sequentially applied with α) composition "C1" or "C2", then β) composition "C4", then γ) composition "C5", preferably "C1" then "C4" or "C5".

[0089] The term "three-step application mode" also means the sequential application of i) at least one compound of formula (I), or (la), (lb), (lc), (Id), (le), (lie), (lid) and / or (lie) as defined previously and hereafter, composition "C4" and composition "C5", i) preferably before "C4".

[0090] According to another embodiment, keratin materials, especially the skin and / or the lips and / or the eyelashes and / or the eyebrows, are subjected to a sequential application of a) a composition, for example "C4", and b) a composition "C1 " or i) at least one compound of formula (I), or (la), (lb), (lc), (Id), (le), (lie), (lid) and / or (lie) as defined previously and hereafter, or composition "C2", and g) composition "C5", preferably before composition "C1 " or i) or "C2" or "C5" the composition "C4" is applied.

[0091] In the two-step or three-step application mode, the composition applied first, for example "C1 " or "C2", preferably "C1 ", is generally called "base coat", while the composition superimposed thereon, for example "C4", is generally called "top coat".

[0092] In the two-step or three-step application mode using i) at least one compound of formula (I), or (la), (lb), (lc), (Id), (le), (lie), (lid) and / or (lie) as defined previously and hereafter, and wherein one or more compounds i) are applied first, this application of i) is also generally called "base coat", while the composition superimposed thereon, for example "C4", is generally called "top coat".

[0093] After application of the various compositions "C1 " or i) and "C2" to "C5", a long-lasting, non-sticky deposit is advantageously obtained. The deposit obtained is also resistant to edible oils and water.

[0094] According to a particular embodiment, the compositions "C1 " or i) and "C2" to "C5" are applied to dry keratin materials, especially dry skin and / or lips and / or eyelashes and / or eyebrows.

[0095] According to a particular embodiment, the compositions "C1 " or i) and "C2" to "C5" are applied to moist or wet keratin materials, especially moist or wet skin and / or lips and / or eyelashes and / or eyebrows, i.e. to keratin materials whose surface contains water, especially to skin and / or lips and / or eyelashes and / or eyebrows whose surface contains water.

[0096] According to one aspect, the present invention relates to a method for treating keratin materials, in particular the skin and / or lips and / or eyelashes and / or eyebrows, in particular for caring for and / or making up keratin materials, in particular the skin, lips, eyelashes and / or eyebrows, in particular a cosmetic method, comprising a step of applying a composition "C3", in particular a composition "C3" containing at least one dye, in particular a dye as defined previously, and more particularly at least one pigment, to said keratin materials, in particular to said skin or said lips or said eyelashes or said eyebrows.

[0097] According to another of its aspects, the present invention relates to a cosmetic treatment method for caring for and / or making up keratin materials, in particular the skin, lips, eyelashes and / or eyebrows, comprising the sequential application of at least: - i) at least one compound of formula (I), or (Ia), (Ib), (Ic), (Id) and / or (Ie) as defined above and below, or a composition called "C1" comprising them and optionally comprising iii) at least one cosmetic active agent, in particular a cosmetic active agent as defined above and below; and then - a composition called "C4" comprising ii) at least one crosslinking agent, in particular as defined below, and optionally iii) at least one cosmetic active agent, in particular as defined above and below; At least one of the compositions "C1" and / or "C4" contains at least one dye, in particular a dye as defined previously and hereinafter, preferably at least one pigment, and more preferably the composition "C1" comprises at least one pigment.

[0098] According to another of its aspects, the present invention relates to a cosmetic treatment method for keratin materials, in particular for caring for and / or making up keratin materials, in particular the skin, lips, eyelashes and / or eyebrows, comprising the sequential application of at least: - i) at least one compound of formula (I), or (Ia), (Ib), (Ic), (Id), (Ie), (Iic), (Iid) and / or (Iie) as defined previously and below, or a composition "C1" as defined previously; and - Composition "C4" as defined previously; and - composition "C5" as defined previously; and It is understood that composition "C1" and / or "C4" and / or "C5" contains at least one dye, in particular a dye as defined below, preferably at least one pigment. Preferably, composition "C5" comprises at least one pigment.

[0099] Compound i): Oil functionalized with acetoacetate functional groups As indicated above, the treatment method according to the invention comprises applying at least one or more compounds of formula (I) or a composition containing them to keratin materials, in particular the skin and / or lips and / or eyelashes and / or eyebrows.

[0100] The treatment method according to the invention thus comprises applying to keratin materials, in particular the skin and / or lips and / or eyelashes and / or eyebrows, at least one or more compounds of formula (I) and their optical and geometric isomers, and / or their solvates such as hydrates, or a composition containing them: (I) Formula (I): - Z represents a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, conjugated or non-conjugated, acyclic or cyclic, aromatic or non-aromatic polyvalent C2-C 40 Hydrocarbon-based groups, especially C3-C 36 Based on hydrocarbon groups, Z can be one or more selected from -O-, -N(R a )-, -S-, -C(O)-, (hetero)cyclic and / or combinations thereof or heteroatom insertion; - AK1 represents a divalent saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched C1-C 12 A hydrocarbon-based chain, preferably a C1-C6 hydrocarbon-based chain, more preferably a saturated C1-C6 hydrocarbon-based chain; - AK2 represents a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C1-C 40 A monovalent hydrocarbon-based chain optionally substituted with one or more groups selected from -OR, -X-AK3-(OC(O)-C(R a )(R b )-C(O)-R4) v and / or the chain is optionally interrupted by one or more heteroatoms or groups selected from -O-, -S-, -C(O)-, (hetero)cycle and combinations thereof, in particular OC(O)-, -C(O)-O- or -(hetero)cycle-O-(hetero)cycle-; - AK3 represents a divalent straight or branched, saturated or unsaturated C1-C 12 A hydrocarbon-based chain, preferably a C1-C6 hydrocarbon-based chain, more preferably a saturated C1-C6 hydrocarbon-based chain, even more preferably a C1-C4 hydrocarbon-based chain; - R represents a hydrogen atom, a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C1-C6 hydrocarbon group, preferably a C1-C4 hydrocarbon group, in particular a methyl group, or a group -C(O)-C(R a )(R b )-C(O)-R4; - X represents -O-, -S-, -OC(O)- or -C(O)-O-; - Y represents -OC(O)- or -C(O)-O-; - R4 represents a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C1-C6 monovalent hydrocarbon-based group, preferably a (C1-C4) hydrocarbon group, in particular a methyl group or a tert-butyl group, more preferably a methyl group; - R a and R b may be the same or different, and represent a hydrogen atom or a (C1-C4) alkyl group, preferably a hydrogen atom; - p represents an integer equal to 0 or 1; - m represents an integer equal to 0, 1, 2, 3 or 4; it is understood that when m is greater than 1, the groups -Y-AK2 are identical or different; - n represents an integer equal to 0, 1, 2, 3 or 4; it is understood that when n is greater than 1, the group -(O) t -(AK1) q -(OC(O)-C(R a )(R b )-C(O)-R4) u to be the same or different; - t represents an integer equal to 0 or 1; - q represents an integer equal to 0 or 1; - u represents an integer equal to 1, 2 or 3; - v represents an integer equal to 1, 2 or 3; It will be understood that if q is equal to 0 then t is equal to 0, (m + n) is greater than or equal to 1, and the compound of formula (I) contains at least two groups -C(O)-C(R a )(R b )-C(O)-R4.

[0101] According to a preferred embodiment, the compounds of formula (I), as well as their optical or geometric isomers and / or their solvates, such as hydrates, are such that Z represents a group selected from: a) a divalent group, preferably C2-C 30 Group, which is optionally substituted by one or more selected from -O-, -N(R a )-, -S-, -C(O)- and / or (hetero)cyclic heteroatoms or groups are inserted; in particular, the group -CH2-(CH2) f , wherein f represents an integer between 1 and 10, preferably between 1 and 5, or a group such as -(CH2) g -(Heterocyclic)-O-(CH2) h -(Heterocycle)-(CH2) j-, wherein h represents 0, 1 or 2, preferably 0 or 1, and g and j independently represent an integer between 1 and 3, preferably 1; b) a trivalent group, preferably C3-C6, in particular -CH2-CH-CH2-; and c) a tetravalent group, preferably C3-C 12 , in particular -CH2-C-CH2-CH2-CH2- or -CH2-C-CH2-, or a group -(CH2) a -CH-CH-(CH2) b -, wherein a and b independently represent an integer equal to 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9 or 10; preferably, a is greater than b.

[0102] According to a preferred embodiment, the (hetero)cycle represents a heterocyclic divalent radical (i.e. a heterocycle), preferably a heterocycloalkyl, more particularly a divalent 3-membered, 5-membered or 6-membered heterocycloalkyl, such as a divalent epoxide radical, a divalent tetrahydrofuran radical or a divalent tetrahydropyran radical, said (hetero)cycle being optionally substituted by one or more radicals selected from -OR (wherein R is as defined previously), and in particular -OH or -OC(O)-C(R a )(R b )-C(O)-R4 group substitution.

[0103] According to a preferred embodiment, AK2 represents a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, C 12 -C 28 A monovalent hydrocarbon-based chain optionally substituted with one or more groups selected from -OR, -X-AK3-(OC(O)-C(R a )(R b )-C(O)-R4) v The same or different groups are substituted by -OC(O)- or -C(O)-O-.

[0104] According to one particular embodiment, the compound of formula (I), or (Ia), (Ib), (Ic), (Id), (Ie), (Iic), (Iid) or (Iie) as defined above and below is present in the composition in a content ranging from 0.1% to 99% by weight, preferably from 1% to 98% by weight, more preferably from 5% to 96% by weight, better still from 10% to 90% by weight and even better still from 20% to 88% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition under consideration.

[0105] According to a particular embodiment, when the treatment method according to the invention comprises several steps, the compound of formula (I), or (Ia), (Ib), (Ic), (Id), (Ie), (Iic), (Iid) or (Iie) as defined above and below may be used pure (alone).

[0106] According to a first embodiment variant, the compounds of formula (I), as well as their optical or geometric isomers and / or solvates, such as hydrates, are such that: - Z represents a trivalent group -CH2-CH-CH2-; - p is equal to 0; - n is equal to 0; - m is equal to 3; - AK2 represents a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C 12 -C 24 A monovalent hydrocarbon-based chain optionally substituted with one or more groups selected from -OR, -X-AK3-(OC(O)-C(R a )(R b )-C(O)-R4) v and / or the chain is optionally interrupted by one or more heteroatoms or groups selected from -O-, -S-, -C(O)-, epoxides and combinations thereof, in particular O-(CO)- or (CO)-O-; - Y, AK3, v, R, X, R4, R a and R b As previously defined for formula (I); It is understood that compounds contain at least two groups -C(O)-C(R a )(R b )-C(O)-R4.

[0107] According to a preferred embodiment, AK2 represents a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C 12 -C 24 A monovalent hydrocarbon-based chain optionally substituted with one or more groups selected from -OR, -X-AK3-(OC(O)-C(R a )(R b )-C(O)-R4) v The chain is optionally substituted by identical or different groups and / or the chain is optionally interrupted by one or more heteroatoms or groups selected from -O-, -S-, -C(O)- and combinations thereof, in particular -OC(O)- or -C(O)-O-.

[0108] According to this embodiment variant, the compounds of formula (I) are particularly selected from the following compounds (1), (2), (3), (4), (7), (8), (9) and (11), and the optical or geometric isomers and / or solvates, such as hydrates, thereof: (1) (2) (3) (4) (7) (8) (9) (11).

[0109] According to a second embodiment variant, the compounds of formula (I), and the optical or geometric isomers and / or solvates, such as hydrates, thereof, are such that: - p is equal to 0; - Z represents a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, preferably saturated, acyclic, polyvalent C4-C 24 hydrocarbon-based chain, in particular a C6-C 20 hydrocarbon-based chain, more particularly a C 14 -C 20 hydrocarbon-based chain, in particular a C 17 hydrocarbon-based chain, Z is also optionally substituted with one or more groups -[(O) t -(AK1) q -(O-C(O)-C(R a )(R b )-C(O)-R4) u ] n ; - n represents an integer equal to 0, 1, 2, 3 or 4; it being understood that when n is greater than 1, then the groups -(O) t -(AK1) q -(O-C(O)-C(R a )(R b )-C(O)-R4) u are identical or different; preferably, n is non-zero; - m is equal to 1; - AK2 represents a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, preferably saturated, C3-C8 monovalent hydrocarbon-based chain, in particular a C4 or C6 monovalent hydrocarbon-based chain, which is substituted with one or more groups chosen from -OR, -X-AK3-(O-C(O)-C(R a )(Rb )-C(O)-R4) v the chain is optionally substituted by identical or different groups of -O-, preferably by one or more groups -OR; and / or the chain is optionally interrupted by one or more heteroatoms or groups selected from -O-, -S-, -C(O)-, (hetero)cycle and combinations thereof, in particular -OC(O)-, -C(O)-O-, -(hetero)cycle-O-(hetero)cycle-, and preferably is not interrupted; - Y, AK1, AK3, t, q, u, v, R, X, R4, R a and R b As previously defined for formula (I); It is understood that the compound contains at least two groups -C(O)-C(R a )(R b )-C(O)-R4.

[0110] According to this embodiment variant, the compound of formula (I) is in particular selected from compounds (5) and (6) below, as well as their optical or geometric isomers and / or solvates, such as hydrates: (5) (6).

[0111] According to a third embodiment variant, the compounds of formula (I), as well as their optical or geometric isomers and / or solvates, such as hydrates, are such that: - p is equal to 0; - n + m is equal to 4, m is non-zero; - Z represents an unsubstituted and uninterrupted, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, preferably saturated and acyclic C2-C 24 Tetravalent hydrocarbon-based groups, especially C3-C 10 tetravalent hydrocarbon-based groups, particularly C3 tetravalent hydrocarbon-based groups; - AK2 independently represents a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, preferably saturated C 12 -C 24 Monovalent hydrocarbon-based chains, preferably C 16 -C 20 Monovalent hydrocarbon-based chains, especially C 18 A monovalent hydrocarbon-based chain optionally substituted with one or more residues selected from -OR and -X-AK3-(OC(O)-C(R a )(R b )-C(O)-R4) v The same or different groups are substituted, preferably by one or more groups -X-AK3-(OC(O)-C(R a )(R b)-C(O)-R4) v substituted; and / or the chain is optionally interrupted by one or more heteroatoms or groups selected from -O-, -S-, -C(O)-, (hetero)cycle and combinations thereof, in particular -OC(O)-, -C(O)-O-, -(hetero)cycle-O-(hetero)cycle-, and preferably is not interrupted; - AK3 represents a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C1-C 12 a divalent hydrocarbon-based chain, preferably a C1-C6 divalent hydrocarbon-based chain, more preferably a saturated C1-C6 divalent hydrocarbon-based chain, even more preferably a C2-C4 divalent hydrocarbon-based chain, still better still a C3 divalent hydrocarbon-based chain; - v is as previously defined for formula (I); preferably v is equal to 2; - X is as previously defined for formula (I); preferably, X represents a sulfur atom; - Y, AK1, u, t, q, R, R4, R a and R b As previously defined for formula (I); It is understood that the compound contains at least two groups -C(O)-C(R a )(R b )-C(O)-R4.

[0112] According to a preferred embodiment, m is equal to 3, n is equal to 1 and u is equal to 1.

[0113] According to a preferred embodiment, t is equal to 0.

[0114] According to a preferred embodiment, q is equal to zero.

[0115] According to a preferred embodiment, Y represents -C(O)-O.

[0116] According to a preferred embodiment, none of the groups AK2 are inserted.

[0117] According to one preferred embodiment, the radical AK2 is saturated.

[0118] According to a preferred embodiment, the group AK2 is not substituted by -OR.

[0119] According to a preferred embodiment, AK3 represents a divalent linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C1-C6 hydrocarbon-based chain, more preferably a saturated C1-C6 hydrocarbon-based chain, even more preferably a saturated C1-C4 hydrocarbon-based chain, better still a saturated C3 hydrocarbon-based chain.

[0120] According to this embodiment variant, the compound of formula (I) is in particular selected from the following compounds (10), as well as their optical or geometric isomers and / or their solvates, such as hydrates: (10).

[0121] According to a fourth embodiment variant, the compounds of formula (I), as well as their optical or geometric isomers and / or solvates, such as hydrates, are such that: - p is equal to 1; - Z represents a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, preferably saturated and acyclic, multivalent C 14 -C 24 Hydrocarbon-based groups, especially C 16 -C 20 Hydrocarbon-based groups, more particularly C 17 Hydrocarbon-based groups, Z is optionally further substituted by one or more groups -[(O)t-(AK1) q -(OC(O)-C(R a )(R b )-C(O)-R4) u ] n substituted, preferably unsubstituted; - AK2 represents a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, preferably saturated C 14 -C 30 Monovalent hydrocarbon-based chains, especially C 20 -C 29 A monovalent hydrocarbon-based chain, which is separated by one or more selected from -OR, -X-AK3-(OC(O)-C(R a )(R b )-C(O)-R4) v The chain is optionally substituted by one or more identical or different groups, preferably by one or more groups -OR; and / or the chain is optionally interrupted by one or more heteroatoms or groups selected from -O-, -S-, -C(O)-, (hetero)cycle and combinations thereof, in particular -OC(O)-, -C(O)-O-, -(hetero)cycle-O-(hetero)cycle-, and preferably by -OC(O)- or -C(O)-O-; - X is as previously defined for formula (I); preferably, X represents a sulfur atom; - Y, AK1, AK3, n, m, v, t, q, u, R, R4, R a and R b As previously defined for formula (I); It is understood that the compound contains at least two groups -C(O)-C(R a )(R b )-C(O)-R4.

[0122] According to a preferred embodiment, n is equal to 0 and m is equal to 1.

[0123] According to a preferred embodiment, Z is a divalent group.

[0124] According to a preferred embodiment, if Z is an unsaturated chain, AK2 is an unsaturated chain, and if Z is a saturated chain, AK2 is a saturated chain.

[0125] According to this embodiment variant, the compound of formula (I), as well as its optical or geometric isomers and / or its solvates, such as hydrates, have in particular formula (Iic): HZY-AK4-Y'-ZH (Iic) The formula (Iic): - Y is as defined above for formula (I); - Z represents a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, preferably saturated C 14 -C 24 Divalent hydrocarbon-based groups, especially C 16 -C 20 A divalent hydrocarbon-based group, preferably C 17 divalent hydrocarbon-based groups; - Y' represents -C(O)-O- or -OC(O)-, it being understood that if Y represents -OC(O)-, then Y' represents -C(O)-O-, and if Y represents -C(O)-O-, then Y' represents -OC(O)-; - AK4 represents a saturated divalent hydrocarbon-based group of 5 or 6 carbon atoms, which is substituted by at least two groups -OR, wherein R is as previously defined in formula (I); It will be appreciated that compounds of formula (Iic) contain at least two groups -C(O)-C(R a )(R b )-C(O)-R4, and preferably four groups -C(O)-C(R a )(R b )-C(O)-R4.

[0126] According to this embodiment variant, the compound of formula (I) is in particular selected from the following compounds (12), as well as their optical or geometric isomers and / or their solvates, such as hydrates: (12).

[0127] According to a fifth embodiment variant, the compounds of formula (I), as well as their optical or geometric isomers and / or solvates, such as hydrates, are such that: - p is equal to 0; - Z represents a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, preferably saturated and acyclic C2-C 24 Tetravalent hydrocarbon-based groups, especially C3-C 10 A tetravalent hydrocarbon-based group, preferably a C4 or C5 tetravalent hydrocarbon-based group, Z is further replaced by one or more groups [(O) t -(AK1) q -(OC(O)-C(R a )(R b )-C(O)-R4) u ] n substituted, n is preferably equal to 1; - n + m is equal to 4, and preferably m is equal to 3; - AK2 independently represents a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, preferably saturated C 14 -C 30 Hydrocarbon-based chains, preferably C 16 -C 24 Hydrocarbon-based chains, preferably C 17 A hydrocarbon-based chain optionally substituted with one or more residues selected from -OR, -X-AK3-(OC(O)-C(R a )(R b )-C(O)-R4) v the chain is optionally substituted by identical or different groups of -O-, -S-, -C(O)-, (hetero)cycle and combinations thereof, in particular -OC(O)-, -C(O)-O-, -(hetero)cycle-O-(hetero)cycle, and preferably is not interrupted by one or more heteroatoms or groups; - X is as previously defined for formula (I); preferably, X represents a sulfur atom; - Y, AK1, AK3, u, t, q, v, n, m, R, R4, R a and R b As previously defined for formula (I); It is understood that the compound contains at least two groups -C(O)-C(R a )(R b )-C(O)-R4.

[0128] According to a preferred embodiment, t is equal to 0 and u is equal to 1.

[0129] According to one preferred embodiment, all radicals AK2 are identical and preferably all radicals Y are identical.

[0130] According to a preferred embodiment, Y represents -OC(O)-.

[0131] According to a particular embodiment, the compound according to this variant has the general formula (Iid), as well as its optical or geometric isomers and / or its solvates such as hydrates: [AK'2-OCO-CH2]3-C-CH2-OC(O)-C(R a )(R b )-C(O)-R4 (Iid) wherein the formula (Iid) AK'2 represents a linear or branched, preferably linear, saturated or unsaturated, preferably saturated C 14 -C 30 Monovalent hydrocarbon-based chains, preferably C 16 -C 24 Monovalent hydrocarbon-based chains, preferably C 17 A monovalent hydrocarbon-based chain, said chain being substituted by one or more selected from -OR, -S-AK3-(OC(O)-C(R a )(R b )-C(O)-R4) v substituted by the same or different groups, preferably substituted by one or more groups -OR; AK3, v, R, R4, R a and R b As previously defined for formula (I), it is understood that the compound contains at least two groups C(O)-C(R a )(R b )-C(O)-R4.

[0132] According to a sixth embodiment variant, the compounds of formula (I), as well as their optical or geometric isomers and / or solvates, such as hydrates, are such that: - p is equal to 0; - m is non-zero; - Z represents a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, conjugated or non-conjugated, preferably non-conjugated, acyclic or cyclic, aromatic or non-aromatic, preferably non-aromatic, divalent C2-C 24 Hydrocarbon-based groups, especially C3-C 12 The hydrocarbon-based group, said group Z is further substituted by one or more selected from -O-, -N(R a )-, -S-, -C(O)-, 5-membered or 6-membered heterocycloalkyl, and combinations thereof; - AK2 represents a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, preferably saturated C 14 -C 30 Monovalent hydrocarbon-based chains, preferably C 14 -C 24 Monovalent hydrocarbon-based chains, preferably C 17A monovalent hydrocarbon-based chain optionally substituted with one or more residues selected from -OR and -X-AK3-(OC(O)-C(R a )(R b )-C(O)-R4) v and / or the chain is optionally interrupted by one or more heteroatoms or groups selected from -O-, -S-, -C(O)-, (hetero)cycle and combinations thereof, in particular -OC(O)-, -C(O)-O- or -(hetero)cycle-O-(hetero)cycle-, preferably optionally interrupted by -OC(O)- or -C(O)-O-, and more preferably not interrupted by; - X is as previously defined for formula (I); preferably, X represents a sulfur atom; - Y, AK1, AK3, v, t, q, u, R, R4, R a and R b As previously defined for formula (I); It is understood that the compound contains at least two groups -C(O)-C(R a )(R b )-C(O)-R4.

[0133] According to a preferred embodiment, according to this variant, Z represents a divalent radical -(CH2) g -(Heterocyclic)-O-(CH2) h -(Heterocycle)-(CH2) j -, wherein h is equal to 0, 1 or 2, preferably equal to 0 or 1, g and j independently represent an integer between 1 and 3, preferably 1, (heterocycle) represents a divalent 5-membered or 6-membered heterocycloalkyl group, in particular a divalent tetrahydrofuran group or a divalent tetrahydropyran group, the heterocycle optionally being replaced by one or more selected from -OR (in which R is as defined above for formula (I)), and in particular -OH or -OC(O)-C(R a )(R b )-C(O)-R4 group substitution.

[0134] According to a particular embodiment, the compound according to this variant has the general formula (Iie), as well as its optical or geometric isomers and / or its solvates such as hydrates: AK''2-C(O)-O-(CH2) g -(Heterocyclic)-O-(CH2) h -(Heterocycle)-(CH2) j -O-CO-AK''2 (Iie) The formula (Iie): - h is equal to 0, 1 or 2 and is preferably equal to 0; - g and j independently represent an integer between 1 and 3, preferably 1; -(heterocycle) represents a divalent 5- or 6-membered heterocycloalkyl radical selected from -OR (wherein R is as defined above for formula (I)), and in particular -OH or -OC(O)-C(R a )(R b )-C(O)-R4 are substituted by the same or different groups; - AK''2 represents a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, preferably saturated C 14 -C 30 Monovalent hydrocarbon-based chains, preferably C 14 -C 24 Monovalent hydrocarbon-based chains, preferably C 17 A monovalent hydrocarbon-based chain optionally substituted with one or more radicals selected from -OH, -OC(O)-C(R a )(R b )-C(O)-R4 and -S-AK3-(OC(O)-C(R a )(R b )-C(O)-R4) v and / or the chain is optionally interrupted by one or more heteroatoms or groups selected from -O-, -S-, -C(O)-, (hetero)cycle and combinations thereof, in particular -OC(O)-, -C(O)-O- or -(hetero)cycle-O-(hetero)cycle-, preferably optionally interrupted by -OC(O)- or -C(O)-O-, and more preferably not interrupted by; It is understood that the compound contains at least two groups -C(O)-C(R a )(R b )-C(O)-R4.

[0135] According to this embodiment variant, the compound of formula (I) or (Iie) is in particular selected from the following compounds (14), as well as their optical and geometric isomers and / or their solvates, such as hydrates: (14) Where W is a hydrogen atom or -C(O)-C(R a )(R b )-C(O)-R4, and the compound contains at least two groups -C(O)-C(R a )(R b )-C(O)-R4.

[0136] According to a seventh embodiment variant, the compounds of formula (I), as well as their optical or geometric isomers and / or solvates, such as hydrates, are such that: - p is equal to 0; - Z represents a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, preferably saturated, and acyclic C2-C10hydrocarbon-based group, in particular a C2-C6hydrocarbon-based group, preferably a C2-C4hydrocarbon-based group, more preferably a C2-C3hydrocarbon-based group, even more preferably a C2hydrocarbon-based group, and even more preferentially a -CH2- group; 24 a tetravalent hydrocarbon-based group, in particular a C3-C10 10 a tetravalent hydrocarbon-based group, preferably a C4or C5tetravalent hydrocarbon-based group, Z also being substituted with one or more groups -[(O) t - (AK1) q - (O-C(O)-C(R a )(R b - C(O)-R4). u ] n substituted; - n + m equal to 6, and preferably m equal to 2; - AK2represents a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, preferably saturated, C3-C8monovalent hydrocarbon-based chain, in particular a C4, C5or C6monovalent hydrocarbon-based chain; Y, AK1, AK3, t, q, u, v, R, X, R4, R a and R b as defined previously for formula (I); It is understood that said compound contains at least two groups -C(O)-C(R a )(R b - C(O)-R4.

[0137] According to this embodiment variant, the compounds of formula (I) are in particular chosen from the following compound (15), and the optical and geometrical isomers thereof and / or the solvates thereof, such as hydrates: (15).

[0138] According to one preferred embodiment, the compounds of formula (I) are chosen from the following compounds (1) to (15), and the optical or geometrical isomers thereof and / or the solvates thereof, such as hydrates: (1) (2) (3) (4) (5) (6) (7) (8) (9) (10) (11) (12) (13) (14) (15) Where W is a hydrogen atom or -C(O)-C(R a )(R b )-C(O)-R4, and the compound contains at least two groups -C(O)-C(R a )(R b )-C(O)-R4.

[0139] According to a preferred embodiment, the compound of formula (I) is selected from the above compounds (1) to (14), and optical or geometric isomers thereof and / or solvates thereof, such as hydrates.

[0140] According to a preferred embodiment, the compound of formula (I) is in particular selected from the following compounds (1), (3), (4), (8), (9), (10), (11) and (15), as well as their optical or geometric isomers and / or their solvates, such as hydrates: (1) (3) (4) (8) (9) (10) (11) (15).

[0141] According to a preferred embodiment, the compound of formula (I) is in particular selected from the above compounds (1), (3), (4), (8), (9), (10) and (11), as well as their optical or geometric isomers and / or their solvates, such as hydrates.

[0142] According to a particular embodiment, the treatment method according to the invention comprises applying to keratin materials, in particular the skin and / or the lips and / or the eyelashes and / or the eyebrows, at least one compound of formula (I) as defined above, and its optical or geometric isomers and / or solvates, such as hydrates, or a composition containing them, other than the following compounds: (1) (2) (3) (4) (5) (6) (7).

[0143] According to a particular embodiment, the treatment method according to the invention comprises applying to keratin materials, in particular the skin and / or the lips and / or the eyelashes and / or the eyebrows, at least one compound of formula (I) chosen from the following compounds (8), (9), (10), (11), (12), (13) and (14), and their optical or geometric isomers and / or solvates, such as hydrates, and their optical or geometric isomers and / or solvates, such as hydrates, or a composition containing them: (8) (9) (10) (11) (12) (13) (14) Where W is a hydrogen atom or -C(O)-C(R a )(R b )-C(O)-R4, and the compound contains at least two groups -C(O)-C(R a )(R b )-C(O)-R4.

[0144] According to a particular embodiment, the treatment method according to the invention comprises applying to keratin materials, in particular the skin and / or the lips and / or the eyelashes and / or the eyebrows, at least one compound of formula (I), and its optical or geometric isomers and / or solvates, such as hydrates, or a composition containing them, chosen from the following formula (Ia): Z-(Y-AK2)3 (Ia) Wherein formula (Ia): - Z represents -CH2-CH-CH2-; - AK2 independently represents a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C12 -C 24 A monovalent hydrocarbon-based chain optionally substituted with one or more residues selected from -OR and -X-AK3-(OC(O)-C(R a )(R b )-C(O)-R4) v and / or the chain is optionally interrupted by one or more heteroatoms or groups selected from -O-, -S-, -C(O)-, epoxides and combinations thereof, in particular OC(O)- and -C(O)-O-; - Y, AK3, v, R, X, R4, R a and R b As previously defined in formula (I); preferably, Y represents -OC(O); It is understood that the compound contains at least two groups -C(O)-C(R a )(R b )-C(O)-R4; In particular, these are in addition to compounds (1), (2), (3), (4) and (7) as defined previously, as well as their optical or geometric isomers and / or their solvates, such as hydrates.

[0145] According to a particular embodiment, the compound of formula (Ia) is especially chosen from compounds (8), (9) and (11) as previously defined, as well as optical or geometric isomers thereof and / or solvates thereof, such as hydrates.

[0146] According to a particular embodiment, the compound of formula (Ia), as well as its optical and geometric isomers and / or its solvates, such as hydrates, is a compound wherein: a) At least one of the three groups AK2 represents a branched, saturated or unsaturated C 12 -C 24 A monovalent hydrocarbon-based chain optionally substituted with one or more residues selected from -OR and -X-AK3-(OC(O)-C(R a )(R b )-C(O)-R4) v and / or the chain is optionally interrupted by one or more heteroatoms or groups selected from -O-, -S-, -C(O)-, (hetero)cycles, in particular epoxides, and combinations thereof, in particular -OC(O)- or -C(O)-O-; AK3, v, R, X, R4, R a and R b As previously defined; it is understood that the compound contains at least two groups C(O)-C(R a )(R b)-C(O)-R4; preferably Y represents -OC(O); preferably X represents S; preferably the three chains AK2 contain 15-21 carbon atoms, more preferably 17 carbon atoms; and preferably none of the three groups AK2 are inserted; or b) The three groups AK2 independently represent linear, saturated C 12 -C 24 A hydrocarbon-based chain substituted by at least one group selected from -OH and OR', and optionally by one or more groups selected from -OC(O)-C(R a )(R b )-C(O)-R4 and -X'-AK3-(OC(O)-C(R a )(R b )-C(O)-R4) v R' represents a C2-C6 alkyl group, in particular an ethyl group; AK3, v, R, R4, R a and R b As previously defined, preferably, Y represents -OC(O)-; and X' represents -O- or -C(O)-O-; it is understood that the compound contains at least two groups -C(O)-C(R a )(R b )-C(O)-R4; preferably, the three chains AK2 contain 15-21 carbon atoms, more preferably 17 carbon atoms; and preferably none of the three groups AK2 are inserted; or c) Group AK2 independently represents a linear, saturated C 12 -C 24 A monovalent hydrocarbon-based chain optionally substituted with one or more residues selected from -OR and -X-AK3-(OC(O)-C(R a )(R b )-C(O)-R4) v the chain is substituted by one or more heteroatoms or groups selected from -O- and / or -S- and / or -C(O)-, (hetero)cycles, in particular one or more epoxides, and combinations thereof, preferably -OC(O)-, -C(O)-O- and -(hetero)cycle-O-(hetero)cycle-; AK3, v, R, X, R4, R a and R b As previously defined; and it is understood that the compound contains at least two groups C(O)-C(R a )(R b )-C(O)-R4; preferably, Y represents -OC(O)-; preferably, X represents S; preferably, the three chains AK2 contain 15-21 carbon atoms, more preferably 17 carbon atoms; or d) three groups AK2 such that at least one of the three groups AK2 represents a linear or branched, unsaturated C 12 -C 24 a monovalent hydrocarbon-based chain, which is optionally substituted by one or more identical or different groups selected from -OR, said chain being optionally interrupted by one or more heteroatoms or groups selected from -O-, -S-, -C(O)-, (hetero)cycle and combinations thereof, in particular -OC(O)-, -C(O)-O- or (hetero)cycle-O-(hetero)cycle; and at least one of the three radicals AK2 represents a linear or branched, saturated C 12 -C 24 A monovalent hydrocarbon-based chain, which is replaced by one or more selected from -S-AK3-(OC(O)-C(R a )(R b )-C(O)-R4) v and optionally substituted with one or more identical or different groups selected from -OR; AK3, v, R, R4, R a and R b As previously defined; preferably, Y represents -OC(O)-; it is understood that the compound contains at least two groups -C(O)-C(R a )(R b )-C(O)-R4; preferably, Y represents -OC(O)-; preferably, X represents S; preferably, the three chains AK2 contain 15-21 carbon atoms, more preferably 17 carbon atoms; preferably, none of the three groups AK2 are inserted; or e) Three groups AK2 such that AK2 represents a saturated linear monovalent C 12 -C 24 A hydrocarbon-based chain, which is replaced by one or more selected from -S-AK3-(OC(O)-C(R a )(R b )-C(O)-R4) v The chain is optionally substituted by one or more heteroatoms or groups selected from -O-, -S-, -C(O)-, (hetero)cycle and combinations thereof, such as -OC(O)-, -C(O)-O-, (hetero)cycle-O-(hetero)cycle; AK3 represents a divalent, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C3-C 12 hydrocarbon-based chain, preferably C3-C6 hydrocarbon-based chain, more preferably saturated C3-C6 hydrocarbon-based chain, especially C3 hydrocarbon-based chain; v, R4, R a and R b As previously defined; preferably, Y represents -OC(O)-; it is understood that the compound contains at least two groups -C(O)-C(R a )(R b)-C(O)-R4; preferably, Y represents -OC(O)-; preferably, v is equal to 2; preferably, the three chains AK2 contain 15-21 carbon atoms, more preferably 17 carbon atoms; preferably, none of the three groups AK2 are inserted; preferably, the group AK2 is saturated; preferably, AK3 represents a trivalent group -CH2-CH-CH2-; or f) The three groups AK2 represent a linear, saturated C 12 -C 24 A monovalent hydrocarbon-based chain, which is connected by one or more identical or different groups -OC(O)-AK3-(OC(O)-C(R a )(R b )-C(O)-R4) v The chain is optionally substituted with one or more residues selected from -OR and -S-AK3-(OC(O)-C(R a )(R b )-C(O)-R4) v and / or the chain is optionally interrupted by one or more heteroatoms or groups selected from -O-, -S-, -C(O)-, (hetero)cycle and combinations thereof, in particular -OC(O)-, -C(O)-O- or -(hetero)cycle-O-(hetero)cycle-; AK3, v, R4, R a and R b As previously defined; preferably, Y represents -OC(O)-; it is understood that the compound contains at least two groups -C(O)-C(R a )(R b )-C(O)-R4; preferably, Y represents -OC(O)-; preferably, v is equal to 1 or 2, more preferably equal to 1; preferably, the three chains AK2 contain 15 to 21 carbon atoms, more preferably 17 carbon atoms; preferably, none of the three groups AK2 is interrupted; preferably, the group AK2 is saturated; preferably, the group AK2 is replaced by at least one group -OR, preferably at least one group -OC(O)-C(R a )(R b )-C(O)-R4; preferably, AK2 is not substituted with -S-AK3-(OC(O)-C(R a )(R b )-C(O)-R4) v Substitution; preferably, AK3 represents a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C1-C6 hydrocarbon-based chain, more preferably a saturated C1-C6 hydrocarbon-based chain, even more preferably a C2 hydrocarbon-based chain.

[0147] According to a particular embodiment, the treatment method according to the invention comprises applying to keratin materials, in particular the skin and / or the lips and / or the eyelashes and / or the eyebrows, at least one compound of formula (I), and its optical or geometric isomers and / or solvates, such as hydrates, or a composition containing them, chosen from the following formula (Ib): m (AK2-Y)-Z-[(O) t -(AK1) q -(OC(O)-C(R a )(R b )-C(O)-R4) u ] n (Ib) Formula (Ib): - n + m is equal to 4, m is non-zero; m and n are as previously defined for the compound of formula (I); - Z represents an unsubstituted or uninterrupted, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, preferably saturated and acyclic C2-C 24 Tetravalent hydrocarbon-based groups, especially C3-C 10 A tetravalent hydrocarbon-based group, preferably a C3 tetravalent hydrocarbon-based group; - AK2 independently represents a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, preferably saturated C 12 -C 24 Monovalent hydrocarbon-based chains, preferably C 16 -C 20 Monovalent hydrocarbon-based chains, preferably C 18 A monovalent hydrocarbon-based chain optionally substituted with one or more residues selected from -OR and -X-AK3-(OC(O)-C(R a )(R b )-C(O)-R4) v The same or different groups are substituted, preferably by one or more groups -X-AK3-(OC(O)-C(R a )(R b )-C(O)-R4) v substituted; and / or the chain is optionally interrupted by one or more heteroatoms or groups selected from -O-, -S-, -C(O)-, (hetero)cycle and combinations thereof, in particular -OC(O)-, -C(O)-O- or -(hetero)cycle-O-(hetero)cycle-, and preferably is not interrupted; - AK3 represents a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C1-C 12a divalent hydrocarbon-based chain, preferably a C1-C6 divalent hydrocarbon-based chain, more preferably a saturated C1-C6 divalent hydrocarbon-based chain, even more preferably a C2-C4 divalent hydrocarbon-based chain, preferably a C3 divalent hydrocarbon-based chain; - v is as defined previously; preferably, v is equal to 2; - X is as defined above; preferably, X represents a sulfur atom; - Y, AK1, u, t, q, R, R4, R a and R b As previously defined; It is understood that the compound contains at least two groups -C(O)-C(R a )(R b )-C(O)-R4.

[0148] According to a preferred embodiment, m is equal to 3, n is equal to 1 and u is equal to 1.

[0149] According to a preferred embodiment, t is equal to 0 and q is equal to 0.

[0150] According to a preferred embodiment, Y represents -C(O)-O-.

[0151] According to a preferred embodiment, none of the groups AK2 are inserted. Preferably, the group AK2 is saturated. Preferably, the group AK2 is not substituted by -OR.

[0152] According to a preferred embodiment, AK3 represents a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C1-C6 hydrocarbon-based chain, more preferably a saturated C1-C6 hydrocarbon-based chain, even more preferably a C1-C4 hydrocarbon-based chain, still better still a C3 hydrocarbon-based chain.

[0153] According to this embodiment variant, the compound of formula (I) or (Ib) is chosen in particular from compound (10) as defined previously, and its optical or geometric isomers and / or its solvates, such as hydrates.

[0154] According to a particular embodiment, the treatment method according to the invention comprises applying to keratin materials, in particular the skin and / or the lips and / or the eyelashes and / or the eyebrows, at least one compound of formula (I), and its optical or geometric isomers and / or solvates, such as hydrates, or a composition containing them, chosen from the following formula (Ic): m (AK2-Y)-ZH-[(O) t -(AK1) q -(OC(O)-C(R a )(R b)-C(O)-R4) u ] n (Ic) wherein formula (Ic) is: - Z represents a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, preferably saturated, and acyclic, divalent C 14 -C 24 hydrocarbon-based group, in particular C 16 -C 20 hydrocarbon-based group, such as C 17 hydrocarbon-based group, Z is also optionally substituted with one or more groups -[(O) t -(AK1) q - (O-C(O)-C(R a )(R b )-C(O)-R4) u ] n substituted, preferably unsubstituted; - AK2 represents a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, preferably saturated, C 14 -C 30 monovalent hydrocarbon-based chain, preferably C 20 -C 29 monovalent hydrocarbon-based chain, substituted with one or more groups identical or different selected from -OR and -X-AK3-(O-C(O)-C(R a )(R b )-C(O)-R4) v , preferably substituted with one or more groups -OR; and / or said chain is optionally interrupted with one or more heteroatoms or groups selected from -O-, -S-, -C(O)-, (hetero)cycles, and combinations thereof, in particular -O-C(O)-, -C(O)-O-, -(hetero)cycles-O-(hetero)cycles- and preferably interrupted with -O-C(O)- or -C(O)-O-; - X is as defined previously, and X preferably represents a sulfur atom; - Y, AK1, AK3, n, m, v, t, q, u, R, R4, R a and R b are as defined previously; It is understood that said compound contains at least two groups -C(O)-C(R a )(R b )-C(O)-R4.

[0155] According to one preferred embodiment, n is equal to 1 and m is equal to 1.

[0156] According to one preferred embodiment, Z is a divalent group.

[0157] According to a preferred embodiment, if Z is an unsaturated chain, AK2 is an unsaturated chain, and if Z is a saturated chain, AK2 is a saturated chain.

[0158] According to this embodiment variant, the compound of formula (Ic), as well as its optical or geometric isomers and / or its solvates, such as hydrates, have in particular formula (Iic) as defined previously.

[0159] According to this embodiment variant, the compound of formula (Iic) is chosen in particular from compound (12) as defined previously, as well as optical or geometric isomers thereof and / or solvates thereof, such as hydrates.

[0160] According to a particular embodiment, the treatment method according to the invention comprises applying to keratin materials, in particular the skin and / or the lips and / or the eyelashes and / or the eyebrows, at least one compound of formula (I) and its optical or geometric isomers and / or its solvates, such as hydrates, or a composition containing them, chosen from the following formula (Id): m (AK2-Y)-Z-[(O) t -(AK1) q -(OC(O)-C(R a )(R b )-C(O)-R4) u ] n (Id) Wherein formula (Id): - n + m is equal to 4, and preferably m is equal to 3; - Z represents a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, preferably saturated or acyclic C2-C 24 Tetravalent hydrocarbon-based groups, especially C3-C 10 A tetravalent hydrocarbon-based group, in particular a C4 or C5 tetravalent hydrocarbon-based group, Z is further replaced by one or more groups -[(O) t -(AK1) q -(OC(O)-C(R a )(R b )-C(O)-R4) u ] n substituted, n is preferably equal to 1; - AK2 independently represents a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, preferably saturated C 14 -C 30 Monovalent hydrocarbon-based chains, preferably C 16 -C 24 Monovalent hydrocarbon-based chains, preferably C 17A monovalent hydrocarbon-based chain optionally substituted with one or more residues selected from -OR and -X-AK3-(OC(O)-C(R a )(R b )-C(O)-R4) v and / or the chain is optionally interrupted by one or more heteroatoms or groups selected from -O-, -S-, -C(O)-, (hetero)cycle and combinations thereof, in particular -OC(O)-, -C(O)-O- or -(hetero)cycle-O-(hetero)cycle-, and preferably is not interrupted; X is as defined above and preferably X represents a sulfur atom; Y, AK1, AK3, u, v, R, R4, R a and R b As previously defined, It is understood that these compounds contain at least two groups -C(O)-C(R a )(R b )-C(O)-R4.

[0161] According to a preferred embodiment, t is equal to 0 and u is equal to 1.

[0162] According to a preferred embodiment, all radicals AK2 are identical. Preferably, all radicals Y are identical.

[0163] According to a preferred embodiment, Y represents -OC(O)-.

[0164] According to this embodiment variant, the compound of formula (Id), as well as its optical or geometric isomers and / or its solvates, such as hydrates, have in particular formula (Iid) as defined previously.

[0165] According to a preferred embodiment, the treatment method according to the invention comprises applying to keratin materials, in particular the skin and / or the lips and / or the eyelashes and / or the eyebrows, at least one compound of formula (I) and its optical or geometric isomers and / or its solvates, such as hydrates, or a composition containing them, chosen from the following: m (AK2-Y)-Z-[(O) t -(AK1) q -(OC(O)-C(R a )(R b )-C(O)-R4) u ] n (Ie) Formula (Ie): - n + m is equal to 2, m is non-zero, and m is preferably equal to 2; n is as previously defined for the compound of formula (I); preferably, n is zero; - Z represents a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, conjugated or non-conjugated, preferably non-conjugated, acyclic or cyclic, aromatic or non-aromatic, preferably non-aromatic C2-C 24 Divalent hydrocarbon-based groups, especially C3-C 12 A divalent hydrocarbon-based group, said group Z being further substituted by one or more selected from -O-, -N(R a )-, -S-, -C(O)-, (hetero)cyclic and combinations thereof; preferably, Z represents a divalent group -(CH2) g -(Heterocyclic)-O-(CH2) h -(Heterocycle)-(CH2) j -, wherein h represents 0, 1 or 2, preferably 0 or 1, g and j independently represent an integer between 1 and 3, preferably 1; (heterocycle) represents a divalent heterocyclic group (i.e., a heterocycle), preferably a heterocycloalkyl group, more particularly a divalent 5-membered or 6-membered heterocycloalkyl group, especially a divalent tetrahydrofuran group or a divalent tetrahydropyran group, the heterocycle being optionally substituted by one or more selected from -OR (wherein R is as defined above), and especially -OH or -OC(O)-C(R a )(R b )-C(O)-R4 group substitution; - AK2 represents a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, preferably saturated C 14 -C 30 Monovalent hydrocarbon-based chains, preferably C 14 -C 24 Monovalent hydrocarbon-based chains, preferably C 17 A monovalent hydrocarbon-based chain optionally substituted with one or more residues selected from -OR and -X-AK3-(OC(O)-C(R a )(R b )-C(O)-R4) v and / or the chain is optionally interrupted by one or more heteroatoms or groups selected from -O-, -S-, -C(O)-, (hetero)cycle and combinations thereof, in particular -OC(O)-, -C(O)-O- or -(hetero)cycle-O-(hetero)cycle-, preferably optionally interrupted by -OC(O)- or -C(O)-O-, and more preferably not interrupted by; - X is as defined above; preferably, X represents a sulfur atom; - Y, AK1, AK3, v, t, q, u, R, R4, R a and R b As previously defined; It is understood that the compound contains at least two groups -C(O)-C(R a )(R b )-C(O)-R4.

[0166] According to this embodiment variant, the compound of formula (Ie), as well as its optical or geometric isomers and / or its solvates, such as hydrates, have in particular formula (Iie) as defined previously.

[0167] Another subject of the present invention are compounds of the formula (I) as described above, which are different from the compounds (1) to (7) as described above, and their salts, isomers and / or solvates, such as hydrates.

[0168] Another subject of the present invention is the compounds of formula (Ia), (Ib), (Ic), (Id) and (Ie) as described previously, as well as their salts, isomers and / or solvates such as hydrates, more particularly the compounds of formula (Iic), (Iid) and (Iie) as described previously.

[0169] In particular, another subject of the present invention are compounds (8), (9), (10), (11), (12), (13) and (14) as described previously, as well as their salts, isomers and solvates.

[0170] Preparation of compounds of formula (I) In particular, compounds of formula (I), or (Ia), (Ib), (Ic), (Id), (Ie), (Iic), (Iid), or (Iie) can be prepared via the following reaction sequence: first step In the first step, under conditions known to those skilled in the art, a compound of formula (H) is reacted with p -Z(OH) m’ A commercial polyol of (preferably natural) is reacted with m equivalents of a fatty derivative R'CO-AK'2 to form an ester bond Y according to the following scheme, wherein m' is greater than or equal to m and m is as previously defined: (H) p -Z(OH) m’ + mR'CO-AK'2->(H) p -Z(OH) m’-m (YAK'2) m In this scenario: - Y represents -OC(O)-; - R' represents in particular -OH or -Cl; preferably, R' represents -OH; - AK'2 represents a straight chain or branched, unsaturated C1-C40 Hydrocarbon-based chains, preferably C 14 -C 20 A hydrocarbon-based chain, which is optionally interrupted by one or more heteroatoms or groups selected from -O-, -S-, -C(O)-, (hetero)cycle and combinations thereof, in particular -OC(O)-, -C(O)-O- or -(hetero)cycle-O-(hetero)cycle-, preferably interrupted by -O- or -S-, more preferably not interrupted.

[0171] According to a preferred embodiment, m is equal to m'.

[0172] Polyol (H) p -Z(OH) m’ Can be cyclic or acyclic.

[0173] Cyclic polyols (H) p -Z(OH) m’ By way of example, mention may be made of maltose, lactose, raffinose, sucrose, trehalose, plantagobiose, melibiose, mannobiose, kojibiose, nigerose, isomaltose, rutinose, rutinose, xylobiose or sorbitan.

[0174] As acyclic polyols (H) p -Z(OH) m’ As examples, mention may be made of ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, pentanediol, hexylene glycol, butanediol, glycerol, pentaerythritol, dipentaerythritol, trimethylolethane, mannitol or trimethylolpropane.

[0175] According to a preferred embodiment, the polyol (H) p -Z(OH) m’ is selected from glycerol, mannitol, sucrose, ethylene glycol, sorbitan or trimethylolpropane, and more preferably polyol (H) p -Z(OH) m’ Indicates glycerol.

[0176] The compound R'CO-AK'2 is preferably an unsaturated fatty acid containing 15 to 36 carbon atoms, preferably 15 to 24 carbon atoms. They may be monounsaturated or polyunsaturated.

[0177] The monounsaturated fatty acids are in particular chosen from palmitoleic acid, oleic acid, 9-eicosenoic acid, 11-eicosenoic acid, erucic acid and nervonic acid.

[0178] The polyunsaturated fatty acids are in particular selected from linoleic acid, α-linolenic acid, γ-linolenic acid, dihomo-γ-linolenic acid, arachidonic acid, eicosapentaenoic acid, docosahexaenoic acid, ruminic acid and the hydroxymonounsaturated fatty acids are in particular selected from 10-hydroxy-cis-12-octadecenoic acid, 10-hydroxy-trans-11-octadecenoic acid, 12-hydroxy-cis-9-octadecenoic acid, 13-hydroxy-cis-9-octadecenoic acid, ricinoleic acid, isoricinoleic acid and the polyunsaturated hydroxy fatty acids are in particular selected from densipolic acid, auricolic acid, dimorphecolic acid.

[0179] More preferably, the unsaturated fatty acid is selected from ricinoleic acid, oleic acid, palmitoleic acid, erucic acid and mixtures thereof.

[0180] Step 2 In the second step, all or some of the unsaturations of the group AK'2 are converted a) into epoxides via an epoxidation reaction to give derivatives (III), such as the starting compound a1 shown in the scheme described below, or b) via a thiol-ene reaction with a (poly)hydroxylated thiol or a thiol having an acid function to give derivatives (IV), such as the compound b3 shown in the scheme described below.

[0181] The thiol-ene reaction b) can be carried out using (poly)hydroxylated thiols, such as those of the formula HS-(CH2) k -OH, wherein k is an integer from 1 to 12, preferably from 1 to 6, such as 2-mercaptoethanol, 3-mercapto-1-propanol, 6-mercapto-1-hexanol, 4-mercapto-1-butanol, or such as branched hydroxylated thiols, preferably branched hydroxylated thiols comprising 1 to 6 carbon atoms, such as 3-mercapto-3-methylbutanol, 3-mercapto-2-butanol, or such as polyhydroxylated thiols, preferably polyhydroxylated thiols comprising 1 to 6 carbon atoms, such as 3-mercapto-1,2-propylene glycol HS-CH(OH)-CHOH.

[0182] The compound (IV) thus obtained is substituted by a group -S-AK3-(OH)v, wherein v is equal to 1 if the thiol is hydroxylated and is greater than 1, such as 2, if the thiol is polyhydroxylated, AK3 and v are as previously defined for the compound of formula (I).

[0183] Step 3 In the third step, all or some of the epoxy groups of the compound of formula (III) are opened with a nucleophilic compound, in particular with i) an alcohol, preferably a C1-C4 alcohol, such as methanol or ethanol, or even a polyol, to give compound (IIIi), such as compound b2 as shown in the scheme below, or with ii) a carboxylic acid, preferably a C1-C6 carboxylic acid, such as lactic acid, pyruvic acid, benzoic acid, glycolic acid or 2,2-bishydroxymethylpropionic acid, more preferably a carboxylic acid substituted with at least one hydroxy group, such as lactic acid, to give compound (IIIii), such as compound b1 as shown in the scheme below.

[0184] According to a preferred embodiment, the carboxylic acid ii) is selected from lactic acid, glycolic acid or 2,2-bishydroxymethylpropionic acid (epoxide-acid reaction) and the reaction is carried out in the presence of a catalyst such as imidazole, 1-methylimidazole, N,N-dimethylbenzylamine or caffeine.

[0185] According to a preferred embodiment, the alcohol i) is selected from ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, pentanediol, hexanediol, butanediol, glycerol, pentaerythritol, dipentaerythritol, trimethylolethane and trimethylolpropane, more preferably butylene glycol or trimethylolethane.

[0186] Step 4 In the fourth step, for example, by reacting with ester G p -C(O)-C(R a )(R b )-C(O)-R4(where G p preferably represents a hydroxyl group or a (C1-C4) alkoxy group, such as a methoxy group, an ethoxy group, an isobutoxy group or a tert-butoxy group, to convert all or some of the alcohol functions -OH of the compound (IIIi) or (IIIii) and any remaining polyol (H) from the first step into p -Z(OH) m’ All or some of the alcohol functional groups of a )(R b )-C(O)-R4.

[0187] According to a preferred embodiment, G p -C(O)-C(R a )(R b )-C(O)-R4 represents an ester selected from ethyl acetoacetate, ethyl 2-methylacetoacetate and tert-butyl acetoacetate, preferably tert-butyl acetoacetate.

[0188] According to this method, compounds of structures (Ia), (Ic), such as compounds of structure (Iic), and compounds of structures (Id) and (Ie) can be obtained.

[0189] For example, step 4 can be performed according to the protocol described in Trevino, AS, and Trumbo, DL (2002). Acetoacetylated castor oil in coating applications. Progress in Organic Coatings, 44(1), 49-54: In some cases, the compound (H) obtained from the first step p -Z(OH) m’ - m (YAK'2) m are commercial; in particular, certain compounds wherein m' is equal to m, p is equal to 0, and Z preferably represents -CH2-CH-CH2- are commercial. When p is equal to 0 and m' is equal to m, the compound is an ester of an optionally hydroxylated unsaturated fatty acid, in particular a triglyceride of castor oil, soybean oil, canola oil, or linseed oil. The synthesis of compounds (Ia) to (Ie) then begins with the second step described above.

[0190] For example, starting from unsaturated triglycerides, (poly)hydroxythiols such as SH-(CH2) x OH (wherein x is an integer preferably from 1 to 4) undergoes a thiol-ene reaction and then a transesterification reaction (as described in Desroches, M., Caillol, S., Lapinte, V., Auvergne, R. and Boutevin, B. (2011). Synthesis of biobased polyols by thiol-ene coupling from vegetable oils. Macromolecules, 44(8), 2489-2500): For example, starting from unsaturated triglycerides, a complete or partial epoxidation reaction is carried out, followed by opening of the epoxide formed, which produces an alcohol function and esterification (transesterification). Commercial epoxidized triglycerides, such as the products sold by Arkema under the trade name Vikoflex 7170 or Vikoflex 7190, can also be used as starting materials.

[0191] For example, the following reaction scheme can be used, in which all epoxides are opened with lactic acid and then each hydroxyl group is esterified with t-Bu-OCOCH2CH3 according to the following scheme: For example, the following reaction scheme can also be used, in which all epoxides are opened with an alcohol, in this case methanol, and each hydroxyl group is then esterified with t-Bu-OCOCH2CH3: Compounds of formula (Ia) to (Ie) can also be prepared via the following reaction sequence: - In a first step, a preferred natural commercial polyacid (H) is reacted under conditions known to a person skilled in the art according to the following scheme p -Z(COOH) m’ Reaction with m equivalents of a fatty alcohol HO-AK'2 (wherein m' is greater than or equal to m, and m is as previously defined) to form an ester bond Y: (H) p -Z(COOH) m’ + mHO-AK'2 ->(H) p -Z(COOH) m’ - m (YAK'2) m Wherein Y represents -C(O)-O-, and AK'2 represents a monovalent straight chain or branched, unsaturated C1-C 40 Hydrocarbon-based chains, preferably C 14 -C 20 A hydrocarbon-based chain, which is optionally interrupted by one or more heteroatoms or groups selected from -O-, -S-, -C(O)-, (hetero)cycle and combinations thereof, in particular -OC(O)-, -C(O)-O-, -(hetero)cycle-O-(hetero)cycle-, preferably interrupted by -O- or -S-, and more preferably not interrupted.

[0192] According to a preferred embodiment, m is equal to m'.

[0193] Polyacid (H) p -Z(COOH) m’ Can be cyclic or acyclic.

[0194] The polyacid may preferably denote an optionally hydroxylated dicarboxylic acid, an optionally hydroxylated tricarboxylic acid or an optionally hydroxylated tetracarboxylic acid.

[0195] The unhydroxylated dicarboxylic acids are especially selected from maleic acid, malonic acid, succinic acid, glutaric acid, hexanedioic acid, sebacic acid, dodecanedioic acid, cyclopropanedicarboxylic acid, cyclohexanedicarboxylic acid, cyclobutanedicarboxylic acid, naphthalene-1,4-dicarboxylic acid, naphthalene-2,3-dicarboxylic acid, naphthalene-2,6-dicarboxylic acid, suberic acid, oxalic acid, malonic acid, succinic acid, phthalic acid, terephthalic acid, isophthalic acid, tetrahydrophthalic acid, hexahydrophthalic acid, pimelic acid, sebacic acid, azelaic acid, glutaric acid, adipic acid, fumaric acid and itaconic acid, and preferably propanedioic acid, succinic acid and pentanedioic acid.

[0196] The hydroxylated dicarboxylic acids are especially selected from tartaric acid, malic acid, elaeisolic acid, 7,18-dihydroxytetracos-15-enoic acid and avenic acid B, and preferably malic acid and tartaric acid.

[0197] The (hydroxy)tricarboxylic acids are especially selected from 2-oxaloglutaric acid, oxalosuccinic acid, 3-carboxymethylmuconic acid, 2-methylcitric acid, citric acid, isocitric acid, aconitic acid, trans-aconitic acid, 1,2,3-propanetricarboxylic acid, 1,2,5-pentanetricarboxylic acid, 1,3,5-benzenetricarboxylic acid, 1,3,5-cyclohexanetricarboxylic acid, 3-butene-1,2,3-tricarboxylic acid, 3-butene-1,1,3-tricarboxylic acid, trimellitic acid, 1,2,3-benzenetricarboxylic acid, 1,3,5-benzenetricarboxylic acid and agaric acid, preferably citric acid and aconitic acid.

[0198] The tetracarboxylic acid is especially selected from 1,2,3,4-butanetetracarboxylic acid, pyromellitic acid, oxydisuccinic acid, thiodisuccinic acid, N-[1,2-dicarboxyethyl]-L-aspartic acid, ethylenediaminetetraacetic acid, ethylenediaminetetrapropionic acid and N,N′-ethylenebis(L-aspartic acid).

[0199] According to a preferred embodiment, the fatty alcohol HO-AK'2 is chosen from fatty alcohols comprising 15 to 36 carbon atoms, preferably 15 to 24 carbon atoms.

[0200] The fatty alcohol HO-AK'2 may be monounsaturated or polyunsaturated (one or more ethylenic double bonds are present).

[0201] The fatty alcohol HO-AK'2 may contain several alcohol functional groups.

[0202] The monounsaturated fatty alcohol is especially selected from oleyl alcohol, docosenol, or unsaturated fatty alcohol ethers, such as polyoxyethylene monooleyl ether, preferably oleyl alcohol. The unsaturated monounsaturated fatty alcohol containing several alcohol functions is especially selected from 9-octadecene-1,12-diol.

[0203] The polyunsaturated fatty alcohols are especially chosen from linoleic alcohol, 2,4-dodecadien-1-ol and polyterpene alcohols (where n is greater than or equal to 3 and less than or equal to 5).

[0204] According to a preferred embodiment, the fatty alcohol HO-AK'2 is selected from oleyl alcohol, linoleyl alcohol or a mixture thereof.

[0205] The following steps are the same as those described previously: - In the second step, all or some of the unsaturations of the group AK'2 are converted a) into epoxides by epoxidation, giving derivatives (III'), such as compound a4 shown in the scheme below, or b) into derivatives (IV'), such as compound b5 shown in the scheme below, by thiol-ene reaction with (poly)hydroxylated thiols or thiols having an acid function.

[0206] - In the third step, all or some of the epoxy groups of the compound of formula (III') are opened with a nucleophilic compound, such as i) preferably a C1-C4 alcohol, such as methanol or ethanol, or even a polyol, to give compound (III'i), such as compound b4 shown in the following scheme, and ii) a carboxylic acid, preferably a C1-C6 carboxylic acid, such as lactic acid, pyruvic acid or benzoic acid, more preferably a carboxylic acid substituted with at least one hydroxyl group, such as lactic acid, to give compound (III'ii), such as compound b6 shown in the following scheme.

[0207] - In the fourth step, for example, by reacting with ester G p -C(O)-C(R a )(R b )-C(O)-R4(where G p Preferably represents a transesterification reaction of a hindered alkoxy group such as tBu-O-) with all or some of the alcohol functions -OH of compound (III'i) or (III'ii) and possibly still present and derived from the polyol (H) used in the first step p -Z(OH) m’ All or some of the alcohol functional groups of a )(R b )-C(O)-R4 to obtain the corresponding compound of formula (I).

[0208] Compounds of formula (Ia) to (Ie) can also be prepared from unsaturated fatty acids such as oleic acid as described in “The synthesis of Bio-based Michael donors from tall oil fatty acids for polymer development”, Polymers, 2022, 14, 4107, by combining steps 2, 3 and 4 described previously, such that p is equal to 1, Y represents -C(O)-O- and m is equal to 1.

[0209] For example, the following reaction scheme can be used, in which all epoxides are opened with methanol and then each hydroxyl group is esterified with t-Bu-OCOCH2CH3: For example, the following reaction scheme can be used, wherein an unsaturated oil is reacted with a (poly)hydroxythiol such as SH-(CH2) x OH (wherein x is an integer preferably from 1 to 4) followed by a transesterification reaction (as described in Desroches, M., Caillol, S., Lapinte, V., Auvergne, R. and Boutevin, B. (2011). Synthesis of biobasedpolyols bythiol-ene coupling from vegetable oils. Macromolecules, 44(8), 2489-2500): For example, the following reaction scheme can be used, in which all epoxides are opened with lactic acid and each hydroxyl group is then esterified with t-Bu-OCOCH2CH3: Crosslinking agent ii) The treatment method according to the invention as previously described comprises applying (i) at least one or more compounds of formula (I) as previously defined, and (ii) at least one crosslinking agent to keratin materials, in particular the skin and / or lips and / or eyelashes and / or eyebrows.

[0210] For the purposes of the present invention, the term "crosslinker", also referred to as "R", denotes a compound capable of establishing at least one covalent bond with the acetoacetate function of at least one compound of formula (I) used in the treatment method according to the invention and thereby crosslinking one or more compounds.

[0211] Preferably, the term "crosslinker", also referred to as "R", refers to a compound capable of establishing at least one covalent bond with the acetoacetate function of the compound of formula (I) used in the treatment method according to the invention and thereby crosslinking one or more compounds.

[0212] For the purposes of the present invention, the terms "crosslinking agent" and "crosslinker" are understood to be equivalent.

[0213] As defined above, compositions "C2", "C3" and "C4" contain at least ii) a crosslinking agent. The composition of the invention may comprise a fatty phase, an aqueous phase or may be in the form of a normal emulsion or an inverse emulsion. Composition "C4" may be an aqueous composition.

[0214] According to one aspect, the treatment method according to the invention uses a composition called "C3", in particular a cosmetic composition for keratin materials, in particular the skin and / or lips and / or eyelashes and / or eyebrows, in particular for caring for and / or making up keratin materials, in particular the skin, lips, eyelashes and / or eyebrows, comprising i) at least one compound of formula (I) as defined above and below, ii) at least one crosslinker, in particular a crosslinker as defined above and below, and iii) at least one cosmetic active agent, in particular a cosmetic active agent as defined above and below.

[0215] The crosslinkers ii) are preferably present in a mass content ranging from 0.2% to 60% by weight, in particular from 0.5% to 40% by weight, more particularly from 1% to 35% by weight, even more particularly from 1% to 30% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition containing them.

[0216] In particular, in the composition "C2" or "C3", the crosslinker ii) and the compound i) as previously defined are preferably present in a mass content ranging from 1% to 35% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition containing them.

[0217] When the treatment method comprises several steps, including a step using one or more compounds of formula (I) or (Ia), (Ib), (Ic), (Id), (Ie), (Iic), (Iid) and / or (Iie) without using a cross-linking agent, the compound of formula (I), (Ia), (Ib), (Ic), (Id), (Ie), (Iic), (Iid) or (Iie) can be used alone (pure) or in composition "C1" as previously described.

[0218] More precisely, the crosslinking agent ii) suitable for the present invention may be chosen from compounds having amine, thiol, acrylate and / or carbonyl functions, such as ketone or aldehyde functions. The crosslinking agent R may also represent a metal alkoxide.

[0219] Thus, according to one particular embodiment, the crosslinker ii) is chosen from (poly)amine, (poly)thiol, (poly)carbonyl, (poly)acrylate and metal alkoxide compounds and mixtures thereof, and is preferably chosen from (poly)amine compounds.

[0220] The terms "(poly)amine, (poly)thiol, (poly)carbonyl and (poly)acrylate compounds" are intended to mean compounds comprising at least one primary or secondary amine, thiol, carbonyl (such as a ketone or aldehyde function) or acrylate function, respectively.

[0221] The metal alkoxide compounds are defined below.

[0222] A) (Poly)amine compounds According to a preferred embodiment, the crosslinking agent R is selected from (poly)amine compounds.

[0223] The (poly)amine compound may be chosen in particular from compounds having several primary and / or secondary amine groups or from aminoalkoxysilanes, and more particularly from aminoalkoxysilane compounds, diamine compounds, triamine compounds and mixtures thereof.

[0224] The (poly)amine compounds may be compounds, in particular non-polymeric compounds, containing 2 to 20 carbon atoms; they may be acyclic or cyclic, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, conjugated or non-conjugated, aromatic or non-aromatic, optionally interrupted by one or more heteroatoms or groups chosen from -O-, -S-, -Si(R')2-, -N(R'')-, preferably -O-, -Si(R')2- or combinations thereof such as -Si(R')2-O- or -O-Si(R')2-, wherein R' may be identical or different and represents a (C1-C4)alkyl group such as a methyl group, and R'' represents a hydrogen atom or a (C1-C4)alkyl group, preferably a hydrogen atom.

[0225] The term "non-polymeric compound" means a compound which is not directly obtained by polymerization of monomers.

[0226] (Poly)amine compounds that may be mentioned include in particular N-methyl-1,3-diaminopropane, N-propyl-1,3-diaminopropane, N-isopropyl-1,3-diaminopropane, N-cyclohexyl-1,3-diaminopropane, 2-(3-aminopropylamino)ethanol, 3-(2-aminoethyl)aminopropylamine, bis(3-aminopropyl)amine, methylbis(3-aminopropyl)amine, N-(3-aminopropyl)-1,4-diaminobutane, N,N-dimethyldipropylenetriamine, 1,2-bis(3-aminoethyl)aminopropylamine, aminopropylamino)ethane, N,N'-bis(3-aminopropyl)-1,3-propylenediamine, ethylenediamine, 1,3-propylenediamine, 1,4-butanediamine, lysine, cystamine, xylenediamine, tris(2-aminoethyl)amine, 1,3-bis(aminomethyl)cyclohexane, 1,4-bis(aminomethyl)cyclohexane, diaminopropanol, 4,7,10-trioxa-1,13-tridecanediamine, spermidine, and C36-alkylenediamine (Priamine, respectively). TM 1071, 1073, 1074, 1075), preferably 4,7,10-trioxa-1,13-tridecanediamine.

[0227] According to a particular embodiment of the present invention, the (poly)amine compounds are monoamine compounds, ie they contain only one primary and / or secondary amine group, preferably a primary amine group (NH2).

[0228] The (poly)amine compound may be selected from aminoalkoxysilanes, in particular those having the formula R'1Si(OR'2) z (R'3) x ,in: - R'1 is a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, cyclic or acyclic C1-C6 hydrocarbon-based chain, which is substituted by a group chosen from a primary amino group NH2 or a secondary amino group -N(H)R (wherein R represents a C1-C4 alkyl group, an aryl group or a benzyl group), which is substituted by an amino group or a C1-C4 aminoalkyl group; R'1 may be interrupted in its chain by heteroatoms (O, S, NH) or carbonyl groups (CO), and R'1 is directly connected to the silicon atom via a carbon atom, - R'2 and R'3 may be the same or different and represent a linear or branched (C1-C6) alkyl group, - z represents an integer in the range of 1-3, and - x represents an integer in the range of 0-2, where z + x = 3.

[0229] In particular, R'1 is a non-cyclic chain. Preferably, R'1 is a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C1-C6 hydrocarbon-based chain substituted with an amine -NH2 or -N(H)R group, wherein R represents a C1-C6 alkyl, C3-C6 cycloalkyl or C6 aromatic group. More preferably, R'1 is a saturated linear C1-C6 hydrocarbon-based chain substituted with an amine NH2 group. Even more preferably, R'1 is a saturated linear C2-C4 hydrocarbon-based chain substituted with an amine NH2 group.

[0230] In particular, R'2 represents an alkyl group containing 1 to 4 carbon atoms; preferably, R'2 represents a linear alkyl group containing 1 to 4 carbon atoms and more preferably R'2 represents an ethyl group.

[0231] In particular, R'3 represents an alkyl group containing 1 to 4 carbon atoms; preferably, R'3 represents a straight-chain alkyl group containing 1 to 4 carbon atoms and more preferably R'3 represents a methyl or ethyl group. Preferably, z is equal to 3.

[0232] In particular, the (poly)amine compound is chosen from aminoalkoxysilanes comprising only one primary and / or secondary amino group, preferably a primary amino group (NH2), such as 3-aminopropyltriethoxysilane (APTES), 3-aminoethyltriethoxysilane (AETES), 3-aminopropylmethyldiethoxysilane, N-(2-aminoethyl)-3-aminopropyltriethoxysilane, 3-(m-aminophenoxy)propyltrimethoxysilane, p-aminophenyltrimethoxysilane and N-(2-aminoethylaminomethyl)phenethyltrimethoxysilane.

[0233] Preferably, the (poly)amine compound is chosen from 3-aminopropyltriethoxysilane (APTES), 3-aminoethyltriethoxysilane (AETES), 3-aminopropylmethyldiethoxysilane and N-(2-aminoethyl)-3-aminopropyltriethoxysilane, and more preferably 3-aminopropyltriethoxysilane (APTES), in particular the product sold by Sigma Aldrich.

[0234] The (poly)amine compounds may also be selected from amino polymers, in particular those having a -1 -1 000 000g.mol -1 range, preferably within 500 g.mol -1 -500 000 g.mol -1 range, and preferably within 500 g.mol -1 -100000 g.mol -1 amino polymers having a weight average molecular weight within a range of .

[0235] According to one particular embodiment of the invention, the (poly)amine compound is a monoamine compound and is chosen from polydialkylsiloxanes, which have in particular formula (IV): H2N-ALK-Si(R'2)(R'3)-O-[Si(R'2)(R'3)-O] n -Si(R'2)(R'3)-R'4(IV) Formula (IV): - AK represents (C1-C4) alkylene, which is linear or branched, preferably linear, such as propylene, - R'2 and R'3 may be the same or different, preferably the same, and represent (C1-C4)alkyl, such as methyl, and - R'4 represents a linear or branched (C1-C6) alkyl group, preferably C4, such as n-butyl, and n represents an integer greater than or equal to 2, preferably a value of n such that the weight average molecular weight of the polydimethylsiloxane is between 500 and 3000 g.mol -1 As examples of polydimethylsiloxanes (V), mention may be made of the products sold under the names MCR-A11 and MCR-A12 by the company Gelest.

[0236] According to a particular embodiment of the present invention, the (poly)amine compounds are diamine compounds, ie they contain two primary and / or secondary amine groups, preferably primary amine groups (NH2).

[0237] More particularly, they are chosen from compounds of formula (V) or (VI): • ALK[(O-ALK') m -NH2]2(V) or • H2N-ALK-Si(R')2-[O-Si(R')2] m -O-Si(R)2-ALK'-NH2(VI) In the formulae (V) and (VI): - ALK and ALK' may be the same or different and represent a linear or branched (C1-C6)alkylene group, preferably a linear group such as propylene, - R' may be the same or different and represents a (C1-C4)alkyl group such as methyl, - m represents an integer greater than or equal to 0; preferably, the value of m is such that the weight average molecular weight of compound (V) or (VI) is between 500 g.mol -1 -55 000 g.mol -1 within the range.

[0238] As examples of compounds of formula (VI), mention may be made of those sold under the names DMS-A11, DMS-A12, DMS-A15, DMS-A21, DMS-A31, DMS-A32 and DMS-A35 by the company Gelest.

[0239] The (poly)amine compounds as diamines are in particular polyetherdiamines, which have in particular the formula H2N-ALK-O-[ALK'-O] m -ALK''-NH2, where ALK, ALK' and ALK'' may be identical or different and represent a linear or branched (C1-C6))alkylene radical, and m represents an integer greater than or equal to 0, such as 4,7,10-trioxa-1,13-tridecanediamine or the compound known under the index Jeffamine from the company Hunstman, and more particularly α,ω-diaminopolyethylene glycol and / or polypropylene glycol (having an amine function at the end of the chain), such as the products sold under the names Jeffamine D-230, D-400, D-2000, D-4000, ED-600, ED-9000 and ED-2003.

[0240] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the (poly)amine compounds are triamine compounds, i.e. they contain three primary and / or secondary amine groups, preferably primary amine groups (NH2). More particularly, they are chosen from polyethertriamines, which in particular have the formula ALK'''[(O-ALK') m -NH2]3, wherein ALK' is as previously defined and ALK''' represents a linear or branched trivalent (C1-C6) alkylene group, and m represents an integer greater than or equal to 0.

[0241] As (poly)amine compounds of the triamine compounds, mention may in particular be made of polyethertriamines and especially α,ω-diaminopolyethylene glycol and / or polypropylene glycol (having amine functions at the ends of the chain), such as the product sold under the name Jeffamine T-403.

[0242] According to another particular embodiment of the present invention, the (poly)amine compound comprises more than three primary and / or secondary amine groups, preferably primary amine groups (NH2).

[0243] In this variant, the (poly)amine compound is selected from poly(meth)acrylates or poly(meth)acrylamides having pendant primary or secondary amine functional groups, such as poly(3-aminopropyl)methacrylamide and poly(2-aminoethyl)methacrylate.

[0244] Preferably, the (poly)amine compound is selected from chitosan (especially poly(D-glucosamine)) and polydimethylsiloxanes comprising primary amine groups at the chain ends and / or in the side chains.

[0245] According to this variant, the (poly)amine compound is chosen in particular from poly((C2-C5)alkyleneimines), and preferably polyethyleneimines and polypropyleneimines, especially poly(ethyleneimines), especially the products sold under the reference 408700 by the company Aldrich Chemical or under the trade name Lupasol by BASF, which have a molecular weight of between 1200 and 25 000; poly(allylamine), especially the products sold under the reference 479136 by the company Aldrich Chemical; polyvinylamine and its copolymers, especially copolymers with vinylamides, especially vinylamine / vinylformamide copolymers, such as those sold under the name Lupamin by BASF; ® 9030; polyamino acids containing NH2 groups, such as polylysine, in particular the products sold by JNC Corporation (formerly Chisso); aminodextran, in particular the products sold by CarboMer Inc.; aminopolyvinyl alcohol, in particular the products sold by CarboMer Inc.; copolymers based on acrylamido(C1-C6)alkylamines, in particular copolymers based on acrylamidopropylamine; and poly(D-glucosamine), for example sold by Kytozyme under the reference name Kinutrime CSG ® Poly(D-glucosamine) is sold.

[0246] According to one particular embodiment, the polydimethylsiloxane comprising primary amine groups at the end of the chain and / or in the side chains is chosen from the compounds of formula (VII) below: R a -Si(R b )(R c )-O-[Si(R b )(R c )-O] m -[Si(ALK 1 -NH2)(R a )-O] n -Si(R b )(R c )-R a (VII) In the formula (VII): R a may be the same or different, and represent a hydroxyl group or a (C1-C4)alkyl group, - R b and R c can be the same or different, preferably the same, and represent (C1-C4)alkyl, such as methyl, -ALK 1represents a linear or branched (C1-C6)alkylene group, which is optionally interrupted by an N(H) group, - m and n are integers greater than or equal to 1; preferably, m and n are such that the weight average molecular weight of the compound of formula (VII) is between 1000 g.mol -1 -500 000 g.mol -1 within the range.

[0247] According to a preferred embodiment, formula (VII) is such that R a 、R b and R c Indicates methyl, ALK 1 represents propylene, n and m make the weight average molecular weight of polydimethylsiloxane be 1000 g.mol -1 -55 000 g.mol -1 within the range.

[0248] As examples of polydimethylsiloxanes of formula (VI), mention may be made of those sold under the names AMS-132, AMS-152, AMS-162, AMS-163, AMS-191 and AMS-1203 by the company Gelest.

[0249] According to another variant, formula (VII) is such that R a Represents hydroxyl or (C1-C4) alkyl, such as methyl, ALK 1 represents a (C5-C6)alkylene group substituted by an NH group; preferably, ALK 1 represents -(CH2)3-N(H)-(CH2)2-, and m and n are such that the weight average molecular weight of the compound of formula (VI) is 5000 g.mol -1 -500 000 g.mol -1 within the range.

[0250] As amine polymers, mention may also be made of α,ω-diaminopolytetrahydrofuran (or polytetramethylene glycol) and α,ω-diaminopolybutadiene.

[0251] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the (poly)amine compound is chosen from hyperbranched polymers comprising at least one amino group and dendrimers having at least one amino group, such as PAMAM polyamidoamine dendrimers having an ethylenediamine core and terminal amine functions.

[0252] According to a preferred embodiment, the composition comprises a crosslinker R chosen from (poly)amine compounds, in particular chosen from chitosan, aminoalkoxysilanes, polydimethylsiloxanes comprising primary amine groups at the end or in the side chains, amine-terminated polydimethylsiloxanes, polyglucosamine, spermidine and mixtures thereof.

[0253] More preferably, the composition comprises a crosslinker chosen from chitosan, aminoalkoxysilanes and polydialkylsiloxanes comprising primary amine groups at the ends of the chain or in side chains, such as amine-terminated polydimethylsiloxanes, and even more preferably chosen from poly(D-glucosamine), 3-aminopropyltriethoxysilane (APTES), 3-aminoethyltriethoxysilane (AETES), 3-aminopropylmethyldiethoxysilane, N-(2-aminoethyl)-3-aminopropyltriethoxysilane, spermidine and polydimethylsiloxanes comprising a terminal amino group at the end of the chain, such as bis-cetearylamine-terminated polydimethylsiloxane.

[0254] B) (Poly)thiol compounds According to one preferred embodiment, the crosslinking agent R is chosen from (poly)thiol compounds, also known as “(poly)mercapto” compounds.

[0255] The (poly)thiol compound may in particular be organic or inorganic, preferably organic.

[0256] In a preferred embodiment, the (poly)thiol compound is silicon-based, ie it comprises one or more thiol groups and it also comprises at least one siloxane chain.

[0257] In a particular embodiment, the (poly)thiol compound is inorganic. Mention may be made, for example, of polythiolsiloxanes.

[0258] The (poly)thiol compound may in particular be chosen from non-polymeric (poly)thiol compounds.

[0259] For the purposes of the present invention, the term "non-polymeric compound" means a compound which is not directly obtained via polymerization of monomers.

[0260] According to one embodiment of the present invention, the (poly)thiol compound is organic, non-polymeric and has the following formula (VIII) and solvates thereof such as hydrates: L(SH) q (VIII) In the formula (VIII): - q represents an integer greater than or equal to 2; preferably, q is between 2 and 10 (inclusive) and more preferably between 2 and 5; - L represents a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, or (hetero)cyclic, saturated or unsaturated polyvalent (at least divalent) group, in particular a polyvalent (at least divalent) group containing between 1 and 500 carbon and / or silicon atoms, more particularly between 2 and 40 carbon and / or silicon atoms, even more particularly between 3 and 30 carbon and / or silicon atoms, preferably between 6 and 20 carbon atoms; L is optionally replaced by one or more selected from O, S, N, Si, C(X) and combinations thereof, such as -O-, -OC(X)-, -N(R)-C(X)-, -Si(R)- c )(R d )-O- (wherein R represents a hydrogen atom or a (C1-C6) alkyl group, such as methyl) heteroatom or group inserted and / or blocked; and / or L is optionally substituted by one or more groups selected from the following: -N(R a )R b and -(X') a -C(X)-(X'') b -R a ; wherein X, X' and X'' may be the same or different and represent an oxygen or sulfur atom, or a group N(R b ); a and b are 0 or 1, preferably the sum of a + b is 1; R a and R b can be the same or different, representing a hydrogen atom or a (C1-C6)alkyl or aryl (C1-C4)alkyl group, such as a benzyl group, preferably R a and R b represents a hydrogen atom; and R c and R d may be the same or different and represent (C1-C6)alkyl, aryl(C1-C4)alkyl or (C1-C6)alkoxy.

[0261] According to a particular embodiment of the present invention, the (poly)thiol compound is chosen from polythiol compounds, in particular polythiol compounds comprising 2 to 20 carbon atoms.

[0262] According to a preferred embodiment, the (poly)thiol compound is non-polymeric and has in particular formula (VIII) as defined above, wherein q is an integer greater than or equal to 2, preferably q is an integer between 2 and 10 (inclusive) and preferably between 2 and 5.

[0263] The (poly)thiol compound suitable for use in the present invention is preferably a dithiol compound.

[0264] Preferably, L represents C8-C 18 Preferably, the fat-soluble polythiol is a linear C8-C 18 Preferably, C8-C 18The chain is a hydrocarbon-based chain, ie it is formed from carbon and hydrogen. In particular, the fat-soluble polythiols are linear C8-C 16 dithiols and especially C 10 -C 14 Dithiols. (Poly)thiol compounds of formula (VII) include, in particular, 1,8-octanedithiol, 1,10-decanedithiol, 1,12-dodecandithiol, 1,14-tetradecandithiol, 1,16-hexadecanedithiol, and 1,18-octadecandithiol. Preference is given to using 1,10-decanedithiol, 1,12-dodecandithiol, and / or 1,14-tetradecandithiol, preferably 1,12-dodecandithiol.

[0265] According to another particular embodiment of the invention, the (poly)thiol compound is chosen from thiolated alkoxysiloxanes, such as those of the following formula (VIII'): R'1-Si(OR'2) z (R'3) x (VIII') In the formula (VIII'): - R'1 is a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, cyclic or acyclic C1-C 12 A hydrocarbon-based chain substituted with one or more groups selected from thiol groups; and aryl, aryloxy, arylthio, arylamino, aryl being substituted with one or more thiol groups or thiol (C1-C6) alkyl groups, preferably thiol (C1-C6) alkyl groups; and R'1 is optionally interrupted in its hydrocarbon-based chain by one or more heteroatoms, such as O, S, N, carbonyl C(O) or a combination thereof, such as ester -C(O)-O- or amide -C(O)-N(H)-, R'1 being directly bonded to the silicon atom via a carbon atom, - R'2 and R'3, which may be identical or different, represent a linear or branched alkyl group containing 1 to 6 carbon atoms, preferably 1 to 4 carbon atoms, such as a methyl group, - z represents an integer in the range of 1-3, and - x represents an integer in the range of 0-2, where z + x = 3.

[0266] Preferably, R'2 represents a linear or branched, preferably linear, alkyl group containing 1 to 4 carbon atoms, such as ethyl.

[0267] Preferably, R'3 represents a linear or branched, preferably linear, alkyl group containing 1 to 4 carbon atoms, such as methyl or ethyl.

[0268] Preferably, R'1 is an acyclic chain, in particular R'1 is a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, preferably saturated C1-C6 hydrocarbon-based chain, substituted by one or more thiol groups, preferably by one thiol group.

[0269] Preferably, R'1 is a saturated linear C1-C6 hydrocarbon-based chain substituted with a thiol group, and R'2 represents an alkyl group containing 1 to 4 carbon atoms.

[0270] Preferably, R'3 represents an alkyl group containing 1 to 4 carbon atoms.

[0271] Preferably, z is equal to 3.

[0272] According to a more particular embodiment of the invention, the thiolated alkoxysiloxanes are chosen from those of the following formula (IX): (R 1 O)(R 2 )(R 3 )Si-[CH(R 4 )] t -[N(R' 4 )-L 1 ] p -SH (IX) In the formula (IX): - p is 0 or 1; - t is an integer between 1 and 4, preferably 2; - R 1 represents a (C1-C6)alkyl group; - R 2 and R 3 may be identical or different, preferably identical, and are selected from (C1-C6)alkyl, in particular C1-C4alkyl, such as methyl, and (C1-C6)alkoxy, in particular (C1-C4)alkoxy, such as methoxy; - R 4 and R' 4 may be the same or different and represent a hydrogen atom or a (C1-C6)alkyl group, such as a methyl group; -L 1 represents a divalent, saturated, straight-chain or branched C1-C 20 Hydrocarbon-based groups.

[0273] According to one particular embodiment of the invention, the thiolated alkoxysiloxanes are chosen from those of the following formula (IX'): (R' 1 O)(R' 2 )(R' 3 )Si-CH(R 4 )-CH(R 5)-(L 2 ) q -SH (IX') In the formula (IX'): - q is equal to 0 or 1; - X represents an oxygen or sulfur atom, preferably a sulfur atom; - R' 1 represents a (C1-C6)alkyl group; - R' 2 and R' 3 may be identical or different, preferably identical, and are selected from (C1-C6)alkoxy, in particular C1-C4alkoxy, and (C1-C6)alkyl; - R 5 represents a hydrogen atom or a C1-C4 alkyl group, which is optionally substituted by an amino group, a thiol group or a hydroxyl group; - R 4 represents a hydrogen atom or a C1-C4 alkyl group, in particular a methyl group; -L 2 Indicates a straight or branched chain, saturated C1-C 20 A divalent hydrocarbon-based group, which is optionally interrupted by heteroatoms such as -N(H)- and / or optionally substituted with one or more hydroxyl, thiol or amino groups.

[0274] Preferably, the thiolated alkoxysilane is selected from 4-(trimethoxysilyl)-1-butanol, 3-(trimethoxysilyl)-1-propanol, 3-(triethoxysilyl)-1-propanol, 11-(trimethoxysilyl)-1-undecanethiol, 4-(trimethoxysilyl)-2-butanethiol, 2-(triethoxysilyl)ethanethiol, 3-(triethoxysilyl)-1-propanethiol, 2-(trimethoxysilyl)ethanethiol, 3-(trimethoxysilyl)-1-propanethiol and 3-(dimethoxymethylsilyl)-1-propanethiol.

[0275] More preferably, the thiolated alkoxysilane is selected from 2-(triethoxysilyl)ethanethiol (18236-15-2) and 3-(triethoxysilyl)-1-propanethiol (14814-09-6).

[0276] According to a preferred embodiment of the present invention, the (poly)thiol compound is selected from polymeric (poly)thiol compounds.

[0277] Polymeric (poly)thiol compounds can be star-shaped, comb-shaped, brush-shaped, and dendritic homopolymers or copolymers having thiol units. The polymers can be of natural origin, such as polysaccharides or polypeptides, or of synthetic origin, such as acrylic polymers, polyesters, or polyglycols. The thiol units can be present as terminal groups and / or pendant groups.

[0278] Examples that may be mentioned include the polymers described in Polymers containing groups of biological activity, CG Overberger et al., Polytechnic Institute of Brooklyn, http: / / pac.iupac.org / publications / pac / pdf / 1962 / pdf / 0402x0521.pdf; EP 1 247 515 A2; US 3 676 440; and EP 1 572 778.

[0279] The polymer (poly)thiol compound of the present invention is preferably an organic compound and / or a siloxane compound, more preferably has the formula (X): POLY(SH) q (X) In the formula (X): - q is greater than or equal to 2, preferably greater than or equal to 3; - POLY represents a polymer-based group, preferably carbon-based or siloxane-based; POLY is optionally replaced by one or more selected from O, S, N, Si, C(X) and combinations thereof, such as -O-, -OC(X)-, -N(R)-C(X)-, -Si(R c )(R d )-O- (wherein R represents a hydrogen atom or a (C1-C6) alkyl group, such as methyl) heteroatom or group inserted; and / or POLY is optionally replaced by one or more halogen atoms or selected from R a (R b )N- and -(X') a -C(X)-(X'') b -R a X, X' and X'' may be the same or different, which represents an oxygen or sulfur atom or a group N (R b ); a and b are 0 or 1, preferably the sum of a + b is 1; R a and R b may be the same or different, and represent a hydrogen atom or (C1-C 10 )alkyl or aryl (C1-C4)alkyl, such as benzyl, preferably R a and R b represents a hydrogen atom; and R c and R d Can be the same or different, which means (C1-C 10 )alkyl, aryl (C1-C4)alkyl or (C1-C 10 )alkoxy.

[0280] The methods for preparing the polymeric (poly)thiol compounds used according to the invention are known to those skilled in the art; several methods are reported below in a non-limiting manner. The polymeric (poly)thiol compounds used according to the invention can be obtained by polymerization or polycondensation of monomer units having a thiol or protected thiol function, optionally as copolymerization or copolycondensation of monomer units not containing a thiol or protected thiol function.

[0281] According to one embodiment of the invention, the polymeric (poly)thiol compounds used according to the invention are polymers soluble in cosmetic media, in particular in aqueous or aqueous-alcoholic media. They are more preferably obtained from amino polymers and their ammonium salts or polyhydroxylated polymers.

[0282] According to another embodiment of the present invention, the thiomer used according to the invention is a polymer that is soluble in a lipophilic medium.

[0283] According to one embodiment of the present invention, the polythiol compound is a polymer compound of formula (X), wherein q represents an integer greater than or equal to 2, and POLY represents a carbon-based and / or silicon-based polymer group, preferably a silicon-based polymer group, POLY may further contain one or more heteroatoms selected from O, N or S, and / or one or more functional groups selected from (thio)ester, (thio)ketone, (thio)amide, (thio)urea and (thio)urethane functional groups, and / or may be replaced by one or more linear or branched (C1-C 10 ) alkyl or linear or branched (C1-C 10 ) alkoxy substitution, it should be understood that when POLY is substituted, the thiol functionality may be carried by the substituent.

[0284] The weight average molecular weight of polythiol polymer compounds such as those of formula (X) is generally in the range of 500-400 000 g.mol -1 between 500 and 150 000 g.mol -1 between.

[0285] According to one particular embodiment of the invention, the polythiol compound is chosen from polyorganosiloxanes comprising thiol groups at the terminal chains, such as those of the following formula (XI): HS-L 4 -Si(R a )(R b )-O-[Si(R a )(R b )-O] n -Si(R a )(R b )-L 5 -SH (XI) In the formula (XI): - R a and R b may be the same or different, preferably the same, and represent a group selected from the group consisting of: (C1-C4)alkyl such as methyl, (C1-C4)alkoxy such as methoxy, aryl such as phenyl, aryloxy such as phenoxy, aryl(C1-C4)alkyl such as benzyl, or aryl(C1-C4)alkoxy such as benzyloxy, preferably (C1-C4)alkyl such as methyl; - n represents an integer greater than or equal to 1 and more particularly has a value such that the weight-average molecular weight of the siloxane is between 500 and 55 000 g.mol -1 In the range of; in particular, n is an integer in the range of 1-100, preferably in the range of 5-50 and preferably in the range of 10-30, and, -L 4 and L 5 may be identical or different, preferably identical, and denotes a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, optionally cyclic, hydrocarbon-based chain comprising 1 to 100 carbon atoms, which is optionally interrupted by one or more heteroatoms such as oxygen, sulfur or nitrogen, in particular oxygen, and in particular denotes a covalent bond or (C1-C6)alkylene, (C1-C6)alkyleneoxy, oxy(C1-C6)alkylene, (C1-C6)alkyleneoxy(C1-C6)alkylene, (C1-C6)alkyleneoxy(C1-C6)alkyleneoxy or oxy(C1-C6)alkyleneoxy(C1-C6)alkylene, preferably (C1-C6)alkylene, (C1-C6)alkyleneoxy, oxy(C1-C6)alkylene or (C1-C6)alkyleneoxy(C1-C6)alkylene.

[0286] Preferably, the (poly)thiol compound is a polythiol polyorganosiloxane, more preferably a polythiol polydimethylsiloxane, especially selected from those of formula (XII): HS-L 4 -Si(CH3)2-O-[Si(CH3)2-O] n -Si(CH3)2-L 5 -SH (XII) In the formula (XII): -L 4 and L 5 As previously defined in formula (IX), in particular L 4 and L 5represents a (C1-C6)alkylene, (C1-C6)alkyleneoxy, oxy(C1-C6)alkylene or (C1-C6)alkyleneoxy(C1-C6)alkylene, more preferably a divalent group selected from -R2-, -O-R2-, -R2-O- and -R2-O-R2-, preferably -R2-O-R2- (wherein R2 represents a linear or branched, preferably linear, (C2-C6)alkylene, such as ethylene or n-propylene, preferably n-propylene); and - n is as defined in formula (XI).

[0287] As polythiol compounds of formula (XII), mention may be made of mercaptosiloxanes or thiolated siloxanes in which the thiol functional groups are located at the ends of the chain, sold under the reference X-22-167B by the company Shin-Etsu, as well as mercaptosiloxanes in which the thiol functional groups are in the side chains, sold under the reference KF-2001 by the company Shin-Etsu, or polydimethylsiloxanes in which the thiol functional groups are located at the ends of the chain (via thio-n-propyl groups, 80-120 groups), sold under the name DMS-SM21 by the company Gelest.

[0288] Preferably, the polythiol compound is selected from polyorganosiloxanes comprising thiol groups in the side chains, such as those of formula (XIII): R a -Si(R b )(R d )-O-[Si(R a )(R b )-O] m -[Si(R b )(ALK1-SH)-O] n -Si(R b )(R d )-R a (XIII) In the formula (XIII): - R a and R b As defined in formula (XI) and R d As for R a and R b As defined, preferably R a 、R b and R d are the same, which represents a (C1-C6)alkyl group, such as methyl; - R d It may also represent a (C1-C6)alkyl group substituted by a (C1-C4)alkylamino group or an amino group or a thiol group, preferably a (C1-C4)alkyl group, such as a methyl group; - ALK1 represents a linear or branched, optionally cyclic, saturated or unsaturated, divalent hydrocarbon-based chain comprising 1 to 100 carbon atoms, which is optionally interrupted by one or more heteroatoms such as oxygen, sulfur or nitrogen, in particular oxygen, a (thio)carbonyl group C(X), wherein X represents O or S or a combination thereof, such as -O-, -OC(O)- or -C(O)-O-; preferably, ALK1 represents a (C1-C6)alkylene group and more preferably a (C1-C4)alkylene group, such as propylene; - n and m, which may be identical or different, represent an integer greater than 2 and more particularly have values ​​such that the weight-average molecular weight of the polyorganosiloxane is between 1000 and 55 000 g.mol -1 between.

[0289] As examples of polythiol compounds of formula (XIII), mention may be made of those sold under the names GP-367, GP-71-SS, GP-800 and GP-710s by the company Genesee Polymers, preference being given to GP-367 sold by the company Genesee Polymers.

[0290] Polythiol compounds are especially polydimethylsiloxanes comprising at least two thiol groups, such as the products SMS-022, SMS-042 and SMS-992 sold by the company Gelest at https: / / www.gpcsilicones.com / products / silicone-fluids / mercapto-functional, https: / / www.shinetsusilicone-global.com / products / type / oil / detail / search / deg07.shtml and 1053_Reactive Silicones_Silanes / Silicones-Gelest.

[0291] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the (poly)thiol compound is selected from hyperbranched polymers comprising at least one thiol group and dendrimers having at least one thiol group, such as thiolated PAMAM dendrimers.

[0292] Preferably, the (poly)thiol compounds used according to the invention are chosen from polydiallylsiloxanes, especially polydimethylsiloxanes comprising at least two thiol groups, such as those of formula (XIII).

[0293] C) (Poly)acrylate compounds According to one particular embodiment, the crosslinking agent is a (poly)acrylate compound.

[0294] The term "(multi)acrylate" means a acrylate comprising at least one acrylate group H2C=C(R e )-C(O)-Y-, wherein R e represents a hydrogen atom or a (C1-C4) alkyl group, such as a methyl group, preferably R e represents a hydrogen atom, and Y represents an oxygen atom or an amino group -N(H)-, preferably an oxygen atom.

[0295] More particularly, the (multi)acrylates of the present invention have the formula (XIV): L[-YC(O)-C(R e )=CH2] q (XIV) wherein q and L are as defined in formula (VIII), Y and R e As previously defined, preferably Y = 0 and R e =H.

[0296] According to a preferred embodiment, the compound of formula (XIV) is such that L represents a divalent or trivalent, preferably trivalent, hydrocarbon-based chain comprising 1 to 8 carbon atoms, q is 2 or 3, preferably 3, Y represents O, and R e Represents a hydrogen atom.

[0297] According to one particular embodiment, the (poly)acrylate compound is chosen from polyorganosiloxanes comprising at least one acrylate group in a side chain, such as those of formula (XV): R a -Si(R b )(R d )-O-[Si(R a )(R b )-O] m -[Si(R b )(ALK1-YC(O)-C(R e )=CH2)-O] n -Si(R b )(R d )-R a (XV) In the formula (XV): - R a 、R b and R d As defined for formula (XIII), preferably R a 、R b and R d represents a (C1-C6)alkyl group, such as methyl, - ALK1 is as defined for formula (XIII), preferably ALK1 represents (C1-C6)alkylene, more preferably (C1-C4)alkylene, such as propylene, - n and m, which may be identical or different, represent an integer greater than 2 and more particularly have values ​​such that the weight-average molecular weight of the polyorganosiloxane is between 1000 and 55 000 g.mol -1 between.

[0298] - Y is as defined previously, and is preferably an oxygen atom.

[0299] More particularly, the (poly)acrylate compound may be selected from 1,3-butanediol diacrylate, 1,4-butanediol diacrylate, bis(trimethylolpropane) tetraacrylate, 1,3-diglycerol diacrylate, glycerol propoxyhexalate (1PO / OH) triacrylate, 1,6-hexanediol diacrylate, 1,6-hexanediol ethoxyhexalate diacrylate, hydroxypivaloyl hydroxypivalate, neopentyl glycol diacrylate, neopentyl glycol ... ) diacrylate, pentaerythritol tetraacrylate, pentaerythritol triacrylate, poly(propylene glycol) diacrylate, tricyclo[5.2.1.02,6]decanedimethanol diacrylate, trimethylolpropane ethoxylate (1EO / OH) methyl ether diacrylate, trimethylolpropane propoxylate triacrylate, trimethylolpropane triacrylate, trimethylolpropane trimethacrylate, tri(propylene glycol) diacrylate, and tris[2-(acryloyloxy)ethyl]isocyanurate.

[0300] The (poly)acrylate compound may also be selected from N,N'-methylenebisacrylamide.

[0301] According to this embodiment, the (poly)acrylate compound is combined in its implementation with an amine catalyst as described, for example, in Progress in coating 129, 21-25 (2019) and Progress in coating 135, 510-516 (2019). Preferably, the amine catalyst is selected from piperidine, DMAP (dimethylaminopyridine), DBU (1,8-diazabicyclo[5.4.0]undec-7-ene), DABCO (1,4-diazabicyclo[2.2.2]octane) and DBN (1,5-diazabicyclo[4.3.0]non-5-ene), more preferably selected from DBU (1,8-diazabicyclo[5.4.0]undec-7-ene), DABCO (1,4-diazabicyclo[2.2.2]octane) and DBN (1,5-diazabicyclo[4.3.0]non-5-ene), and in particular the catalyst is DBU (1,8-diazabicyclo[5.4.0]undec-7-ene).

[0302] More particularly, the (poly)acrylate compound is chosen from those of formula (XIV), especially trimethylolpropane triacrylate, and those of formula (XV), especially copolymers of dimethylsiloxane and acryloxypropylmethylsiloxane.

[0303] D) Metal alkoxides According to a particular embodiment, the crosslinking agent R is selected from the following formula (XIV a )、(XIV b )、(XIV c ) and (XIV d ) of metal alkoxides and mixtures thereof: • M-(OR1) n (XIV a ) • RM-(OR1) n-1 (XIV b ) • (R1O) n-1 -M-R''-M'-(OR1') n’-1 (XIV c ) • RM(R')-(OR1) n-2 (XIV d ) In the formula (XIV a )、(XIV b )、(XIV c ) and (XIV d )middle: - M and M', which may be the same or different, represent an atom selected from alkaline earth metals, transition metals, lanthanides, post-transition metals such as aluminum or tin, and metalloids such as boron; preferably transition metals such as Ti and post-transition metals such as aluminum; - n and n' represent the valence of the atoms represented by M and M' respectively; - R1 and R1', which may be identical or different, represent a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon-based group containing 1 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably 1 to 6 carbon atoms, said hydrocarbon-based group being optionally interrupted by 1 to 20 heteroatoms selected from O, N, S and P, in particular O or N; and / or said hydrocarbon-based group being optionally substituted by one or more hydroxyl or carbonyl groups; - R and R', which may be identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or a linear, branched, acyclic or cyclic, saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon-based group containing 1 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably 2 to 20 carbon atoms, which is optionally interrupted by 1 to 20 heteroatoms chosen from O, N, S and / or P, in particular O or N, and / or said hydrocarbon-based group is optionally substituted by one or more hydroxyl or carbonyl groups; - R" represents -O-, -N(R2)-, -S- or a linear, cyclic or branched, saturated or unsaturated divalent hydrocarbon-based group containing 1 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably 2 to 20 carbon atoms, which is optionally interrupted by 1 to 20 heteroatoms selected from O, N, S and P, especially O or N, wherein R2 represents a linear, cyclic or branched, saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon-based group containing 1 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably 2 to 20 carbon atoms.

[0304] Preferably, M and M', which may be the same or different, represent atoms selected from transition metals such as titanium or zirconium or alkaline earth metals such as magnesium, more preferably from transition metals such as titanium or zirconium, even more preferably titanium.

[0305] Preferably, the organometallic compound is selected from the group consisting of formula (XIV a According to this preferred embodiment, the organometallic compound is more particularly selected from the group consisting of formula (XIV a ) wherein M represents an atom selected from a transition metal, a lanthanide metal, a post-transition metal (such as aluminum, tin), a metalloid (such as boron) or an alkaline earth metal (such as magnesium or calcium); n represents the valence of the atom represented by M; and R1 represents a saturated, linear or branched hydrocarbon-based group containing 1 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably 1 to 6 carbon atoms.

[0306] According to another more preferred embodiment, the organometallic compound is selected from the group consisting of formula (XIV a ) wherein M represents an atom selected from a transition metal (such as zirconium or titanium), a lanthanide metal, a post-transition metal (such as aluminum or tin), a metalloid (such as boron) and an alkaline earth metal (such as magnesium), preferably M represents a titanium atom; n represents the valence of the atom represented by M, especially 1, 2, 3 or 4, in particular 4; R1 represents a methyl, ethyl, 2-ethylhexyl, propyl, isopropyl, n-butyl, isobutyl or tert-butyl group.

[0307] According to an even more preferred embodiment, the organometallic compound is selected from zirconium ethoxide (Zr(OC2H)4), zirconium propoxide (Zr(OCH2CH2CH3)4), zirconium isopropoxide (Zr(OCH(CH3)2)4), zirconium butoxide (OCH2CH2CH2CH3)4), zirconium tert-butoxide (Zr(OC(CH3)3)4), titanium ethoxide (Ti(OC2H5)4), titanium propoxide (Ti(OCH2CH2CH3)4), titanium isopropoxide (Ti(OCH(CH3)2)4), titanium butoxide (Ti(OCH2CH2CH2CH3)4), titanium tert-butoxide (Ti(OC(CH3)3)4), titanium 2-ethylhexoxide (Ti(OCH2CH(C2H5)(CH2)3CH3)4) and compounds thereof, more preferably selected from zirconium propoxide, titanium propoxide, titanium butoxide and mixtures thereof.

[0308] More preferably, the crosslinking agent R is of formula (XIV a ), preferably wherein M represents an atom selected from transition metals, especially titanium, such as titanium butoxide.

[0309] E) (Poly)carbonyl compounds According to one particular embodiment, the crosslinking agent R is a (poly)carbonyl compound.

[0310] In particular, the (poly)carbonyl compound is chosen from terephthalaldehyde, 5,5-dimethyl-1,3-cyclohexanedione, phenylglyoxal, isophthalaldehyde, 4-acetylbenzaldehyde, 4,4-diformyltriphenylamine, 2-acetylbenzaldehyde, 3-(2-furoyl)quinoline-2-carboxaldehyde, 3-(2-furoyl)quinoline-2-carboxaldehyde, 3-acetylbenzaldehyde, 9-(2-ethylhexyl)carbazole-3,6-dicarbaldehyde, o-phthalaldehyde, 1,3-cyclohexanedione, 4,4′-biphenyldicarboxaldehyde, benzene-1,3,5-tricarbaldehyde, and nonionic or anionic oxidized polysaccharides, such as oxidized inulin, in particular those of formula (II) as defined below. In particular, the (poly)carbonyl compound comprises a saturated or unsaturated aromatic C5-C7 carbon ring, preferably an aromatic C5-C7 carbon ring, such as phenyl, or a non-aromatic and saturated C5-C7 carbon ring, such as cyclohexyl, more preferably an unsaturated and aromatic C5-C7 carbon ring, such as terephthalaldehyde.

[0311] According to one particular embodiment, the (poly)carbonyl compound is chosen from nonionic or anionic oxidized polysaccharides comprising one or more aldehyde groups and optionally one or more anionic groups.

[0312] These anionic groups are preferably carboxyl groups or carboxylate groups.

[0313] The nonionic or anionic oxidized polysaccharide according to the present invention can be represented by the following formula (II): P-(CHO) m (COOQ) n (II) In the formula (II): - P represents a polysaccharide chain preferably consisting of monosaccharides containing 5 carbon atoms or more than 5 carbon atoms, preferably 6 or more than 6 carbon atoms and more particularly 6 carbon atoms; - Q is selected from a hydrogen atom, an ion derived from an alkali metal or alkaline earth metal such as sodium or potassium, ammonia, an organic amine such as monoethanolamine, diethanolamine, triethanolamine and 3-amino-1,2-propanediol, and a basic amino acid such as lysine, arginine, sarcosine, ornithine and citrulline; - m + n is greater than or equal to 1; - m is such that the degree of substitution (DS(CHO)) of the polysaccharide having one or more aldehyde groups is in the range of 0.001 to 2 and preferably 0.005 to 1.5; - n is such that the degree of substitution (DS(COOX)) of the polysaccharide having one or more carboxyl groups is in the range of 0-2 and preferably 0.001-1.5.

[0314] The expression "degree of substitution DS(CHO) or DS(COOX) of the polysaccharide according to the invention" means the ratio between the number of carbon atoms which, for all repeating units, are oxidized to give aldehyde or carboxyl groups and the number of elementary monosaccharides constituting the polysaccharide (even if opened by pre-oxidation). The groups CHO and COOX may be obtained during the oxidation of certain carbon atoms, for example, on carbon atoms 2, 3 or 6 of a saccharide unit containing 6 carbon atoms.

[0315] Preferably, the oxidation may take place on carbons 2 and 3, more particularly it represents from 0.01% to 75% by number of the rings that may have been opened, and preferably from 0.1% to 50% by number.

[0316] The polysaccharide chain represented by P is preferably selected from cellulose, starch, maltodextrin, guar gum, xanthan gum, pullulan gum, agar gum, carrageenan, gellan gum, gum arabic, polyxylose and tragacanth gum and derivatives thereof.

[0317] The term "derivatives" means compounds obtained by chemical modification of the compounds mentioned. They may be esters, amides or ethers of the compounds mentioned.

[0318] The oxidation can be carried out according to methods known in the art, for example according to the method described in FR 2 842 200, in document FR 2 854161 or in the article “Hydrophobic films from maize branhemicelluloses” by E. Fredon et al., Carbohydrate Polymers 49, pp. 1-12 (2002).

[0319] Another oxidation process is described in the article “Water soluble oxidized starches by peroxide reaction extrusion” Industrial Crops and Products 7, RE Wing, JL Willet, 45-52 (1997).

[0320] According to this embodiment, the (poly)carbonyl compound is combined in its implementation with an amine catalyst as described in the articles Progress in coating 129, 21-25 (2019) and Progress in coating 135, 510-516 (2019). Preferably, the amine catalyst is selected from piperidine, DMAP (dimethylaminopyridine), DBU (1,8-diazabicyclo[5.4.0]undec-7-ene), DABCO (1,4-diazabicyclo[2.2.2]octane) and DBN (1,5-diazabicyclo[4.3.0]non-5-ene), more preferably selected from DBU (1,8-diazabicyclo[5.4.0]undec-7-ene), DABCO (1,4-diazabicyclo[2.2.2]octane) and DBN (1,5-diazabicyclo[4.3.0]non-5-ene), and in particular the catalyst is DBU (1,8-diazabicyclo[5.4.0]undec-7-ene).

[0321] According to a preferred embodiment, the crosslinking agent is selected from (poly)amine compounds A), (poly)thiol compounds B), (poly)acrylate compounds C), metal alkoxides D) and (poly)carbonyl compounds E), and is preferably selected from (poly)amine compounds A).

[0322] In particular, the (poly)amine compound A) is chosen from a) chitosans, such as poly(D-glucosamine), b) polyetherdiamines, in particular polyethylene glycol α,ω-diamine (having amine functions at the ends of the chain), c) polyethertriamines, such as polyetheramine (or Jeffamine), d) aminoalkoxysilanes, such as APTES, and e) polydialkylsiloxanes containing primary amine groups at the ends of the chain or in the side chains, in particular polydimethylsiloxanes containing primary amine groups, such as bis(3-aminopropyl)-terminated poly(dimethoxysiloxane) (PDMS-diNH2) and amine-terminated polydimethylsiloxanes containing amine groups in the side chains, such as bis-cetearylamine-terminated polydimethylsiloxane, in particular the products sold by Momentive Performance Materials.

[0323] According to a preferred embodiment, the (poly)amine compound A) is chosen from a) chitosans, such as poly(D-glucosamine), c) polyethertriamines, such as polyetheramine (or Jeffamine), and e) polydialkylsiloxanes containing primary amine groups at the end or in the side chains, in particular polydimethylsiloxanes containing primary amine groups, such as bis(3-aminopropyl)-terminated poly(dimethoxysiloxane) (PDMS-diNH2) and amine-terminated polydimethylsiloxanes containing amine groups in the side chains, such as bis-cetearylamine-terminated polydimethylsiloxane, in particular the products sold by Momentive Performance Materials.

[0324] In particular, the (poly)thiol compound B) is chosen from a) polydialkylsiloxanes having a thiol function, and b) alkoxysilanes having a thiol function, and in particular from a) polydialkylsiloxanes having a thiol function, preferably polydimethylsiloxanes containing a thiol group (such as a mercaptopropyl group) in the side chain, especially those of formula (XIII).

[0325] In particular, the (poly)acrylate C) compounds are chosen from those of formula (XIV), especially trimethylolpropane triacrylate, and those of formula (XV), especially copolymers of dimethylsiloxane and acryloxypropylmethylsiloxane, preferably trimethylolpropane triacrylate.

[0326] According to a preferred embodiment, the crosslinking agent is selected from: A) a (poly)amine compound selected from the group consisting of: ia) chitosans such as poly (D-glucosamine), ib) polyetherdiamines, in particular polyethylene glycol α,ω-diamines having chain-end amine functions, ic) polyethertriamines, in particular polyetheramine (or Jeffamine), id) aminoalkoxysilanes, especially APTES, ie) 4,7,10-trioxa-1,13-tridecanediamine, and if) polydialkylsiloxanes containing primary amine groups at the chain ends or in the side chains, in particular polydimethylsiloxanes containing primary amine groups, more particularly bis(3-aminopropyl)-terminated poly(dimethoxysiloxane) (PDMS-diNH2) and amine-terminated polydimethylsiloxanes containing amine groups in the side chains, more particularly bis-cetearylamine-terminated polydimethylsiloxane; B) a (poly)thiol compound selected from the group consisting of: iia) polydialkylsiloxanes having thiol functional groups, and iib) alkoxysilanes having a thiol function, and in particular from iia) polydialkylsiloxanes having thiol functional groups, preferably from polydimethylsiloxanes containing thiol groups (in particular mercaptopropyl groups) in the side chains, and more particularly from compounds of formula (XIII): R a -Si(R b )(R d )-O-[Si(R a )(R b )-O] m -[Si(R b )(ALK1-SH)-O] n -Si(R b )(R d )-R a (XIII) In the formula (XIII): - R a and R b may be identical or different, preferably identical, and represent (C1-C4)alkyl, in particular methyl, (C1-C4)alkoxy, in particular methoxy, aryl, in particular phenyl, aryloxy, in particular phenoxy, aryl(C1-C4)alkyl, in particular benzyl, or aryl(C1-C4)alkoxy, in particular benzyloxy, preferably (C1-C4)alkyl, more preferably methyl, - R d represents (C1-C4)alkyl, in particular methyl, (C1-C4)alkoxy, in particular methoxy, aryl, in particular phenyl, aryloxy, in particular phenoxy, aryl(C1-C4)alkyl, in particular benzyl, aryl(C1-C4)alkoxy, in particular benzyloxy, or (C1-C6)alkyl substituted by (C1-C4)alkylamino, amino or thiol groups, and is preferably (C1-C4)alkyl, more preferably methyl, And preferably Ra 、R b and R d are identical and represent (C1-C6)alkyl, more preferably methyl, - ALK1 represents a linear or branched, optionally cyclic, saturated or unsaturated, divalent hydrocarbon-based chain comprising 1 to 100 carbon atoms, which is optionally interrupted by one or more heteroatoms such as oxygen, sulfur or nitrogen, in particular oxygen, a (thio)carbonyl group C(X), wherein X represents O or S, or a combination thereof, in particular -O-, -OC(O)- or -C(O)-O-; preferably, ALK1 represents (C1-C6)alkylene and more preferably (C1-C4)alkylene, even more preferably propylene, - n and m, which may be identical or different, represent an integer greater than 2 and are in particular such that the weight-average molecular weight of the polyorganosiloxane is between 1000 and 55 000 g.mol -1 between; and C) (Poly)acrylate compounds of formula (XIV): L[-YC(O)-C(R e )=CH2] q (XIV) In the formula (XIV): - q represents an integer greater than or equal to 2, in particular n is between 2 and 10 (inclusive) and preferably between 2 and 5, - L represents a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, or (hetero)cyclic, saturated or unsaturated polyvalent (at least divalent) group, in particular a polyvalent (at least divalent) group containing between 1 and 500 carbon and / or silicon atoms, more particularly between 2 and 40 carbon and / or silicon atoms, even more particularly between 3 and 30 carbon and / or silicon atoms, preferably between 6 and 20 carbon atoms; L is optionally replaced by one or more selected from O, S, N, Si, C(X) and combinations thereof, in particular -O-, -OC(X)-, -N(R)-C(X)-, -Si(R)- c )(R d )-O- (wherein R represents a hydrogen atom or a (C1-C6) alkyl group, in particular a methyl group) is inserted and / or terminated by heteroatoms or groups; and / or L is optionally substituted by one or more groups selected from the group consisting of: -N(R a )R b and -(X') a -C(X)-(X'') b -R a ; wherein X, X' and X'' may be the same or different and represent an oxygen or sulfur atom, or a group N(R b ); a and b are 0 or 1, preferably the sum of a + b is 1; Ra and R b may be the same or different and represent a hydrogen atom, a (C1-C6)alkyl group or an aryl (C1-C4)alkyl group, in particular a benzyl group, preferably R a and R b represents a hydrogen atom, and R c and R d may be the same or different and represent (C1-C6)alkyl, aryl(C1-C4)alkyl or (C1-C6)alkoxy, - R e represents a hydrogen atom or a (C1-C4)alkyl group, in particular a methyl group; preferably, R e represents a hydrogen atom, and - Y represents an oxygen atom or an amino group -N(H)-, preferably an oxygen atom, Preferably, Y is an oxygen atom and R e is a hydrogen atom, preferably L represents a divalent or trivalent, preferably trivalent, hydrocarbon-based chain containing 1 to 8 carbon atoms, q is 2 or 3, preferably 3, and More preferably, the compound of formula (XIV) is trimethylolpropane triacrylate; D) a metal alkoxide selected from the group consisting of zirconium ethoxide (Zr(OC2H5)4), zirconium propoxide (Zr(OCH2CH2CH3)4), zirconium isopropoxide (Zr(OCH(CH3)2)4), zirconium butoxide Zr(OCH2CH2CH2CH3)4, zirconium tert-butoxide (Zr(OC(CH3)3)4), titanium ethoxide (Ti(OC2H5)4), titanium propoxide (Ti(OCH2CH2CH3)4), titanium isopropoxide (Ti(OCH(CH3)2)4), titanium butoxide (Ti(OCH2CH2CH2CH3)4), titanium tert-butoxide (Ti(OC(CH3)3)4), titanium 2-ethylhexoxide (Ti(OCH2CH(C2H5)(CH2)3CH3)4) and mixtures thereof, more preferably selected from the group consisting of zirconium propoxide, titanium propoxide, titanium butoxide and mixtures thereof, E) (poly)carbonyl compounds selected from the group consisting of (poly)carbonyl compounds comprising a saturated or unsaturated aromatic C5-C7 carbocycle, preferably an aromatic carbocycle such as phenyl, or a non-aromatic and saturated carbocycle such as cyclohexyl, more preferably an unsaturated and aromatic carbocycle such as terephthalaldehyde.

[0327] Cosmetic active agentsiii) According to one particular embodiment, the method of the invention further comprises applying iii) at least one cosmetic active agent to keratin materials, in particular to the skin and / or lips and / or eyelashes and / or eyebrows.

[0328] More particularly, in the treatment method according to the invention, at least one of the compositions "C1", "C2", "C3", "C4" or "C5" used comprises one or more cosmetic active agents.

[0329] In particular, the cosmetic active agent iii) is chosen from: a) dyes (or colorants), in particular chosen from pigments, direct dyes and mixtures thereof, b) active agents for caring for keratin materials, preferably the skin, c) UV-screening agents, and d) mixtures thereof.

[0330] According to a particular embodiment, the at least one cosmetic active agent iii) is chosen from dyes, preferably from pigments, direct dyes and mixtures thereof, more preferably pigments.

[0331] According to another embodiment, at least one of the compositions "C1", "C2", "C3", "C4" or "C5" used comprises one or more cosmetic active agents chosen from: a) dyes (or colorants), in particular chosen from pigments, direct dyes and mixtures thereof, preferably from pigments.

[0332] According to one particular embodiment, the composition "C1" contains at least one cosmetic active agent iii) as defined previously and hereinafter, preferably chosen from a) dyes and more preferably from pigments.

[0333] According to one particular embodiment, the composition "C2" contains at least one cosmetic active agent iii) as defined previously and hereinafter, preferably chosen from a) dyes and more preferably from pigments.

[0334] According to one particular embodiment, the composition "C3" contains at least one cosmetic active agent iii) as defined previously and hereinafter, preferably chosen from a) dyes and more preferably from pigments.

[0335] It goes without saying that a person skilled in the art will carefully select the optional cosmetic active agent(s) and / or the amount thereof such that the advantageous properties of the respective composition according to the invention are not or not substantially adversely affected by the intended addition.

[0336] dye According to a particular embodiment, the method of the invention uses one or more dyes.

[0337] More particularly, in the process of the invention, at least one of the compositions "C1", "C2", "C3", "C4" or "C5" used comprises at least one particulate or non-particulate, water-soluble or water-insoluble dye, preferably in a proportion of at least 0.01% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition under consideration.

[0338] For obvious reasons, this amount is susceptible to considerable variation depending on the intensity of the colour effect desired and the colour intensity provided by the dye in question, and its adjustment is clearly within the capabilities of a person skilled in the art.

[0339] Preferably, at least one of the compositions "C1", "C2", "C3", "C4" or "C5" comprises at least one dye chosen from pigments, direct dyes and mixtures thereof, more preferably a pigment.

[0340] More preferably, the pigments of the invention are chosen from carbon black, iron oxides, in particular yellow, red and black iron oxides and micas coated with iron oxides, triarylmethane pigments, in particular blue and violet triarylmethane pigments, in particular Blue 1 Lake, azo pigments, in particular red azo pigments, more in particular D&C Red 7, alkali metal salts of Lissol Red, in particular the calcium salt of Lissol Red B, and even more preferably from red iron oxides, yellow iron oxides and azo pigments, in particular red azo pigments, more in particular D&C Red 7.

[0341] pigment For the purposes of the present invention, the term "pigment" means any compound capable of imparting color to keratin materials. These compounds have a solubility in water at 25°C and atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg) of less than 0.05% by weight and preferably less than 0.01% by weight.

[0342] As pigments suitable for the present invention, mention may especially be made of the organic and / or mineral pigments known in the art, in particular those described in Kirk-Othmer's Encyclopedia of Chemical Technology and in Ullmann's Encyclopedia of Industrial Chemistry.

[0343] These pigments may be synthetic or natural.

[0344] These pigments may be in the form of pigment powders or pastes.

[0345] They may be coated or uncoated.

[0346] These pigments may be chosen, for example, from mineral pigments, organic pigments, lakes, pigments with special effects such as nacre or glitter flakes, and mixtures thereof.

[0347] Pigments suitable for use in the present invention may be selected from mineral pigments.

[0348] The term "mineral pigment" is intended to mean any pigment that meets the definition of Ullmann's Encyclopedia in the chapter on inorganic pigments. Among the mineral pigments that can be used in the present invention, mention may be made of manganese violet, ultramarine, chromium hydrate, ferric blue and oxides or dioxides of titanium, zirconium or cerium, and oxides of zinc, iron or chromium.

[0349] They may also be pigments having a structure of the sericite / brown iron oxide / titanium dioxide / silicon dioxide type, for example. Such pigments are sold, for example, by the company Chemicals and Catalysts under the references Coverleaf NS or JS, and have a contrast ratio of around 30. They may also be pigments having a structure of the silica microspheres containing iron oxide, for example. An example of a pigment having such a structure is the product sold by the company Miyoshi under the reference PC Ball PC-LL-100 P, which consists of silica microspheres containing yellow iron oxide.

[0350] Advantageously, the pigment may be iron oxide and / or titanium dioxide.

[0351] Pigments suitable for use in the present invention may be selected from organic pigments.

[0352] The term "organic pigment" is intended to mean any pigment that meets the definition of Ullmann's Encyclopedia in the chapter on organic pigments. Among the organic pigments that can be used in the present invention, mention may be made of nitroso, nitro, azo, xanthene, pyrene, quinoline, anthraquinone, triphenylmethane, fluoran, phthalocyanine, metal complexes, isoindolinone, isoindoline, quinacridone, perinone, perylene, diketopyrrolopyrrole, indigo, thioindigo, dioxazine, triphenylmethane and quinophthalone compounds. In particular, the white or colored organic pigment may be selected from carmine, carbon black, aniline black, azo yellow, quinacridone, phthalocyanine blue, blue pigments coded in the Color Index with the index names CI 42090, 69800, 69825, 74100, 74160, yellow pigments coded in the Color Index with the index names CI 11680, 11710, 19140, 20040, 21100, 21108, 47000, 47005, Green pigments coded in the Colour Index by the names CI 11725, 45370, 71105, orange pigments coded in the Colour Index by the names CI 12085, 12120, 12370, 12420, 12490, 14700, 15525, 15580, 15620, 15630, 15800, 15850, 15865, 15880, 26100, 45380, 45410, 58000, 73360, 73915, 75470, pigments obtained by oxidative polymerization of indole or phenol derivatives as described in patent FR 2 679 771.

[0353] Examples that may also be mentioned include pigment pastes of organic pigments, such as the products sold under the following names by the company Hoechst: Cosmenyl Yellow 10G: Pigment Yellow 3 (CI 11710); Cosmenyl G yellow: Pigment Yellow 1 (CI 11680); Cosmenyl GR orange: Pigment Orange 43 (CI 71105); Cosmenyl R red: Pigment Red 4 (CI 12085); Cosmenyl FB carmine: Pigment Red 5 (CI 12490); Cosmenyl RL violet: Pigment Violet 23 (CI 51319); Cosmenyl A2R blue: Pigment Blue 15.1 (CI 74160); Cosmenyl GG green: Pigment Green 7 (CI 74260); Cosmenyl R black: Pigment Black 7 (CI 77266).

[0354] The pigments according to the application can also be in the form of composite pigments, as described in patent EP 1 184 426. These composite pigments can in particular be constituted of particles comprising an inorganic core, at least one binder for attaching an organic pigment to the core, and at least one organic pigment at least partially covering the core.

[0355] The organic pigments can also be lakes.

[0356] The term "lake" means a dye adsorbed onto an insoluble particle, the combination thus obtained remaining insoluble during use.

[0357] The inorganic substrate onto which the dye is adsorbed is for example alumina, silica, calcium sodium borosilicate or calcium aluminum borosilicate and aluminum. Among the dyes adsorbed on an organic substrate, mention can be made of carminic acid. Mention can also be made of the dyes known under the following names: D&C Red 21 (CI 45 380), D&C Orange 5 (CI 45 370), D&C Red 27 (CI 45 410), D&C Orange 10 (CI 45 425), D&C Red 3 (CI 45 430), D&C Red 4 (CI 15 510), D&C Red 33 (CI 17 200), D&C Yellow 5 (CI 19 140), D&C Yellow 6 (CI 15 985) D&C Green 5 (CI 61 570), D&C Yellow 10 (CI 77 002), D&C Green 3 (CI 42 053), D&C Blue 1 (CI 42090), FDC Red 4, D&C Red 6, D&C Red 22, D&C Red 28, D&C Red 30, D&C Orange 4, D&C Yellow 8, D&C Green 5, D&C Red 17, D&C Green 6, D&C Yellow 11, D&C Violet 2, Sudan red, carotenes (beta-carotene, lycopene), xanthophylls (paprika red, capsanthin, lutein), palm oil, Sudan brown, quinoline yellow, annatto, curcumin, betanin (beet), cochineal, copper chlorophyllin, methylene blue, anthocyanins (enocianine, black carrot, hibiscus, elderberry), caramel, riboflavin, beet juice and caramel.

[0358] One example of a lake that can be mentioned is the product known under the following name: D&C Red 7 (CI 15 850:1).

[0359] The pigments may also be special effect pigments.

[0360] The term "special effect pigments" refers to pigments that generally produce a colored appearance (characterized by a certain chromaticity, a certain vividness, and a certain brightness level) that is non-uniform and varies depending on viewing conditions (light, temperature, viewing angle, etc.). They are therefore different from colored pigments that provide a standard uniform opaque, translucent, or transparent color.

[0361] There are several types of special effect pigments: those with a low refractive index, such as fluorescent or photochromic pigments, and those with a higher refractive index, such as nacres, interference pigments or glitter flakes.

[0362] The size of the pigments used in the composition according to the invention is generally between 10 nm and 200 μm, preferably between 20 nm and 80 μm and more preferably between 30 nm and 50 μm.

[0363] The pigment may be dispersed in the composition with the aid of a dispersant.

[0364] The dispersant may be a surfactant, an oligomer, a polymer or a mixture thereof, which has one or more functionalities having a strong affinity for the surface of the particles to be dispersed. In particular, they can be physically or chemically attached to the surface of the pigment. These dispersants also contain at least one functional group that is compatible with or soluble in the continuous medium. In particular, esters of 12-hydroxystearic acid, especially C8-C 20 Esters of fatty acids and polyols such as glycerol or diglycerol, such as poly(12-hydroxystearic acid) stearate with a molecular weight of about 750 g / mol, such as the product sold under the name Solsperse 21 000 by the company Avecia, polyglyceryl-2 dipolyhydroxystearate (CTFA name) sold by the company Henkel under the reference Dehymyls PGPH; or polyhydroxystearic acid, such as the product sold under the reference Arlacel P100 by the company Uniqema; and mixtures thereof. Other dispersants that may be used in the composition of the invention include quaternary ammonium derivatives of polycondensed fatty acids, such as Solsperse 17 000 sold by the company Avecia; and polydimethylsiloxane / propylene oxide mixtures, such as those sold under the references DC2-5185 and DC2-5225 C by the company Dow Corning. The pigments used in the composition may be surface-treated with organic agents. According to a particular embodiment, the dispersant is of the aminosiloxane type, other than the alkoxysilanes previously described, and is cationic. Preferably, the pigment is selected from mineral pigments, mixed mineral-organic pigments or organic pigments.

[0365] According to one particular embodiment, the pigments according to the invention are organic pigments, preferably organic pigments surface-treated with an organic agent chosen from silicone compounds.

[0366] According to another embodiment of the invention, the pigments according to the invention are mineral pigments.

[0367] direct dyes According to one particular embodiment of the invention, the cosmetic active agent is a dye chosen from one or more direct dyes.

[0368] The term "direct dye" means natural and / or synthetic dyes other than oxidation dyes. These are dyes that will undergo surface diffusion on the fiber. They can be ionic or nonionic, preferably cationic or nonionic.

[0369] Among the direct dyes suitable for the present invention, mention may be made of azo direct dyes, alone or in mixtures; (poly)methine dyes, such as cyanines, hemicyanines and styryls; carbonyl dyes; azine dyes; nitro(hetero)aryl dyes; tri(hetero)arylmethane dyes; porphyrin dyes; phthalocyanine dyes and natural direct dyes.

[0370] The direct dye is preferably a cationic direct dye. Mention may be made of the following hydrazine-based cationic dyes of formula (A) and (B) and the following azo-based cationic dyes of formula (C) and (D): Het + -C(Ra)=NN(Rb)-Ar, Q - (A) Het + -N(Ra)-N=C(Rb)-Ar, Q - (B) Het + -N=N-Ar, Q - (C) Ar + -N=N-Ar'', Q - (D) In the formulae (A) to (D): - Het + represents a cationic heteroaryl group, which preferably has an intra-ring cationic charge, such as imidazolium, indolium or pyridinium, which is optionally substituted, preferably by at least one (C1-C8)alkyl group, such as methyl; -Ar + represents an aryl group, such as a phenyl or naphthyl group having an exocyclic cationic charge, preferably ammonium, in particular tri(C1-C8)alkylammonium, such as trimethylammonium; - Ar represents an aryl group, in particular a phenyl group, which is optionally substituted, preferably by one or more electron-donating groups such as optionally substituted (C1-C8)alkyl, optionally substituted (C1-C8)alkoxy, (di)(C1-C8)(alkyl)amino, optionally substituted on the alkyl group by hydroxy, and optionally substituted N-(C1-C8)alkyl-N-aryl(C1-C8)alkylamino, or alternatively, Ar represents a julolidine group; - Ar'' represents an optionally substituted (hetero)aryl group, such as phenyl or pyrazolyl, which is optionally substituted, preferably by one or more (C1-C8)alkyl, hydroxy, (di)(C1-C8)(alkyl)amino, (C1-C8)alkoxy or phenyl; - Ra and Rb, which may be identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or a (C1-C8)alkyl group, which is optionally substituted, preferably by a hydroxyl group; Or with Het + The substituents Ra and / or Rb of the substituents Ar form together with the atoms that carry them a (hetero)cycloalkyl group; in particular, Ra and Rb represent a hydrogen atom or a (C1-C4)alkyl group, said (C1-C4)alkyl group being optionally substituted by a hydroxyl group; -Q - represents an organic or inorganic anionic counterion, such as a halide or alkyl sulfate.

[0371] Mention may be made in particular of the azo direct dyes and hydrazono direct dyes having an intracyclic cationic charge of formulae (A) to (D) as defined previously, More particularly, cationic direct dyes having an intra-ring cationic charge are described in patent applications WO 95 / 15144, WO 95 / 01772 and EP 714 954.

[0372] Preferably, the direct dye is selected from the compounds of the following formulae (E) and (F): In the formulae (E) and (F): - R 1 represents a (C1-C4)alkyl group such as methyl; - R 2 and R 3 may be the same or different and represent a hydrogen atom or a (C1-C4)alkyl group, such as a methyl group; - R 4represents a hydrogen atom or an electron-donating group, such as an optionally substituted (Ci-C8)alkyl group, an optionally substituted (Ci-C8)alkoxy group or a (di)(Ci-C8)(alkyl)amino group optionally substituted on the alkyl group with a hydroxyl group; in particular, R 4 is a hydrogen atom; - Z represents a CH group or a nitrogen atom, preferably CH; - Q - is an anionic counterion as defined previously, in particular a halide such as chloride, or an alkyl sulfate such as methyl sulfate or mesylate.

[0373] In particular, the dyes of formulae (E) and (F) are chosen from Basic Red 51, Basic Yellow 87 and Basic Orange 31 or derivatives thereof, in which Q’ is an anionic counterion as defined previously, in particular a halide such as chloride, or an alkyl sulfate such as methyl sulfate or mesylate. The direct dyes can be chosen from anionic direct dyes. The anionic direct dyes of the application are dyes that are usually referred to as “acid” direct dyes because of their affinity for basic substances.

[0374] The term “anionic direct dye” means any direct dye comprising at least one CO2R’ or SO3R’ substituent in its structure, in which R’ represents a hydrogen atom or a cation derived from a metal or an amine, or an ammonium ion.

[0375] The anionic direct dyes can be chosen from direct nitro acid dyes, azo acid dyes, azine acid dyes, triarylmethane acid dyes, indoamine acid dyes, anthraquinone acid dyes, indigoid dyes and natural acid dyes.

[0376] Among the natural direct dyes that can be used according to the application, mention can be made of lawsone, juglone, alizarin, purpurin, carminic acid, kermesic acid, purpurogallin, protocatechuic aldehyde, indigo, isatin, curcumin, virolin, xanthopurpurin and orceins. Extracts or decoctions containing these natural dyes can also be used, and in particular henna-based pastes or extracts.

[0377] Preferably, the direct dyes are chosen from anionic direct dyes.

[0378] The dyes, preferably pigments, can be present in a concentration ranging from 0.01 % to 30% by weight, preferably ranging from 0.02% to 20% by weight and more particularly ranging from 0.05% to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition containing them.

[0379] The direct dyes may be present in a concentration ranging from 0.001% to 10% by weight and preferably from 0.005% to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition in which they are contained.

[0380] Preferably, a cosmetic active agent, in particular a dye and more in particular a pigment, is introduced into at least one of the compositions "C1", "C2", "C3", "C4" or "C5".

[0381] Care active agents According to a particular embodiment, the method of the invention uses one or more care active agents.

[0382] More particularly, in the method according to the invention according to one embodiment, at least one of the compositions "C1", "C2", "C3", "C4" or "C5" used contains one or more care active agents, preferably in a proportion of at least 0.01% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition in question. In particular, the care active agent may be at least one hydrophilic active agent and / or one lipophilic active agent, and preferably a hydrophilic care active agent.

[0383] The term "hydrophilic active agent" means a water-soluble or water-dispersible active agent capable of forming hydrogen bonds.

[0384] The cosmetic care active agents may be chosen in particular from: a) vitamins and their derivatives, in particular their esters, in particular tocopherol (vitamin E) and its esters (such as tocopheryl acetate), ascorbic acid (vitamin C) and its derivatives; b) humectants, in particular urea, hydroxyurea, glycerol, polyglycerol, glyceryl glucoside, diglyceryl glucoside, polyglyceryl glucoside and xylitol glucoside, and in particular glycerol; c) C-glycoside compounds; d) antioxidant compounds; e) anti-aging active agents, in particular hyaluronic acid compounds, and in particular sodium hyaluronate, retinol and its derivatives, salicylic acid compounds and in particular the sodium salt of n-octanoyl-5-salicylic acid (octanoylsalicylic acid), caffeine, adenosine, C-β-d-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxypropane and 3-hydroxy-2-pentylcyclopentyl acetic acid; f) skin care agents chosen from allantoin, panthenol and protein hydrolysates; g) Polyphenols, especially escin, ruscus, dioscin, hesperidin and resveratrol, and h) and mixtures thereof.

[0385] In particular, in the method according to the invention according to one embodiment, at least one of the compositions "C1", "C2", "C3", "C4" or "C5" used contains a moisturizing agent (also called a humectant). Preferably, the care active agent is a moisturizing agent, and in particular glycerol (glycerin).

[0386] The care active agents may in particular be present in the composition in a content ranging from 0.01% to 30% by weight and preferably from 0.02% to 25% by weight relative to the weight of the composition containing them.

[0387] UV-screening agents According to one embodiment of the process according to the invention, at least one of the compositions "C1", "C2", "C3", "C4" or "C5" used comprises at least one UV-screening agent as cosmetic active agent.

[0388] UV-screening agents are UV-screening agents commonly used in cosmetics.

[0389] It may be chosen from the positive list contained in Annex VI to Regulation (EC) No 1223 / 2009, which sets out the list of UV-screening agents permitted in cosmetic products.

[0390] The UV-screening agents suitable for use in the present invention can be of various natures.

[0391] They may be lipophilic, hydrophilic or insoluble organic agents.

[0392] The term "lipophilic UV-screening agent" is intended to mean any cosmetic or dermatological screening agent which is completely soluble in molecular form or which is soluble in colloidal form, for example in the form of micelles, in a liquid fatty phase.

[0393] The term "hydrophilic UV-screening agent" is intended to mean any cosmetic or dermatological screening agent which is completely soluble in molecular form or which is soluble in colloid form, for example in the form of micelles, in a liquid aqueous phase.

[0394] The term "insoluble UV-screening agent" is understood to mean any cosmetic or dermatological screening agent which is neither defined as a lipophilic nor a hydrophilic UV-screening agent and which is in particulate form in an aqueous or liquid fatty phase. The UV-screening agent of the composition according to the invention can provide UVA and / or UVB light protection.

[0395] According to a preferred embodiment, the composition, which is preferably a cosmetic composition, may comprise at least one organic and / or inorganic UV-screening agent (for screening out the UV radiation of the sun).

[0396] In particular, the UV-screening agent is selected from bisresorcinol-based triazine derivatives, dibenzoylmethane derivatives, benzylidene camphor derivatives and mixtures thereof. Organic UV-screening agents may also be chosen from anthranilic acid derivatives; cinnamic acid derivatives; salicylic acid derivatives; benzophenone derivatives; phenylbenzotriazole derivatives; benzalmalonate derivatives, in particular those mentioned in patent US 5 624 663; phenylbenzimidazole derivatives; imidazoline; 4,4-diarylbutadiene derivatives; bis-benzazolyl derivatives, as described in patents EP 6 693 23 and US 2 463 264; para-aminobenzoic acid (PABA) derivatives; methylenebis(hydroxyphenylbenzotriazole) derivatives, as described in patents US 5 237 071, US 5 166 355, GB 2 303 549, DE 197 26,184 and EP 893 119; benzoxazole derivatives, such as those described in patents EP 0 832 642, EP 1 027; 883, EP 1 300 137 and DE 101 62 844; shielding polymers and shielding siloxanes such as those described in particular in patent application WO 93 / 04665; dimers based on α-alkylstyrene such as those described in patent application DE 198 55 649; 4,4-diarylbutadienes such as those described in patent applications EP 0 967 200, DE 197 46 654, DE 197 55 649, EP 1 008 586, EP 1 133 980 and EP 133 981; other merocyanine derivatives such as those described in patent applications WO 04 / 006878, WO 05 / 058269 and WO 06 / 032741; and mixtures thereof.

[0397] According to a particular embodiment, the concentration of the organic UV-screening agent in the composition is in the range of 1% to 50% by weight, preferably in the range of 1% to 40% by weight, for example in the range of 5% to 35% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0398] The UV-screening agent may be an inorganic UV-screening agent, which is typically a pigment. The pigment may be coated or uncoated.

[0399] Thus, the inorganic UV-screening agent can be chosen from coated or uncoated pigments and in particular from coated titanium dioxide pigments, silicone-treated titanium dioxide, uncoated titanium dioxide pigments, uncoated zinc oxide pigments, coated zinc oxide pigments, uncoated cerium oxide pigments, uncoated iron oxide pigments, coated iron oxide pigments and mixtures thereof.

[0400] According to one particular embodiment, compositions "C1" to "C5" do not contain inorganic UV-screening agents.

[0401] According to one particular embodiment, the amount of inorganic UV-screening agent present in a composition "C1", "C2", "C3", "C4" or "C5" according to the invention may be within the range of 0.01% to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition containing it. For example, it ranges from 1% to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0402] According to one particular embodiment, at least one of the compositions "C1" to "C5" also comprises one or more organic UV-screening agents and one or more inorganic UV-screening agents.

[0403] According to one particular embodiment, the composition comprises a combination of UV-screening agents as described in patent FR 2 977 490, patent application WO 2013 / 004777 or patent application US 2014 / 0134120.

[0404] Preferably, the method for treating keratin materials, in particular the skin and / or lips and / or eyelashes and / or eyebrows, and the compositions "C1", "C2", "C3", "C4" or "C5" use or comprise one or more dyes chosen from pigments, direct dyes and mixtures thereof, preferably pigments; more preferably, the pigments of the invention are chosen from carbon black, iron oxides, in particular yellow, red and black iron oxides and micas coated with iron oxides, triarylmethane pigments, in particular blue and violet triarylmethane pigments, such as Blue 1 Lake, azo pigments, in particular red azo pigments, such as D&C Red 7, alkali metal salts of Lithol Red, such as the calcium salt of Lithol Red B, even more preferably red iron oxides, yellow iron oxides and azo pigments, in particular red azo pigments, such as D&C Red 7.

[0405] Fatty phase - fatty substances According to a particular embodiment, the process of the invention also uses iv) one or more fatty substances, in particular one or more oils, preferably volatile oils.

[0406] In particular, at least one of the compositions "C1", "C2", "C3", "C4" or "C5" used in the process of the invention contains a fatty phase.

[0407] In particular, at least one of the compositions "C1", "C2", "C3", "C4" or "C5" used in the process according to the invention comprises one or more fatty substances different from compound i), in particular one or more oils, preferably volatile oils.

[0408] The term "oil" refers to a fatty substance that is liquid at room temperature (20°C) and atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg).

[0409] The term "hydrocarbon-based oil" means an oil essentially formed or even consisting of carbon and hydrogen atoms and possibly oxygen and nitrogen atoms and not comprising any silicon or fluorine atoms. It may contain alcohol, ester, ether, carboxylic acid, amine and / or amide groups.

[0410] According to one embodiment of the invention, the oil iv) is chosen from volatile oils, in particular: - hydrocarbon-based oils containing 8-16 carbon atoms, especially branched C8-C 16 Alkanes, in particular isoalkanes, more in particular isoalkanes (also called isoparaffins), preferably C 13 -C 16 Isoparaffins, isododecane, isodecane, isohexadecane, for example the oils sold under the trade names Isopar or Permethyl, preferably isododecane (also known as 2,2,4,4,6-pentamethylheptane); straight-chain alkanes, in particular C 11 -C 16 Alkanes, especially hexane, decane, undecane, tridecane; isoparaffins, especially n-dodecane (C 12 ) and n-tetradecane (C 14 ), undecane-tridecane mixture, n-undecane (C 11 ) and n-tridecane (C 13 ), and mixtures thereof, and n-undecane (C 11 ) and n-tridecane (C 13 ) mixture; and volatile C5-C 12 cyclic, nonaromatic alkanes; - short-chain esters containing 3 to 8 carbon atoms in total, in particular ethyl acetate, methyl acetate, propyl acetate or n-butyl acetate; - hydrocarbon-based oils of the structure R'1-OC(O)-O-R'2, wherein R'1 and R'2 independently represent a linear, branched or cyclic C4-C8 alkyl group, preferably a C4-C8 alkyl group, advantageously more preferably chosen from dibutyl carbonate or dipentyl carbonate; - ether oils of the formula R1-O-R2, wherein R1 and R2 independently represent linear, branched or cyclic C4-C8 alkyl groups, preferably C4-C8 alkyl groups; - silicone oils, in particular silicone oils containing 2 to 7 silicon atoms and optionally including alkyl or alkoxy groups containing 1 to 10 carbon atoms, in particular polydimethylsiloxane, cyclopentasiloxane, dodecamethylpentasiloxane, cyclohexamethylsiloxane, octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane, heptamethylhexyltrisiloxane, heptamethyloctyltrisiloxane, hexamethyldisiloxane, octamethyltrisiloxane, decamethyltetrasiloxane, dodecamethylpentasiloxane and mixtures thereof of viscosities of 5 and 6 cSt; More preferably, the volatile oil iv) is selected from C8-C 16 The alkane, in particular a branched alkane, is preferably isododecane.

[0411] In particular, at least one of the compositions "C1", "C2", "C3", "C4" or "C5" used in the method according to the invention comprises one or more non-volatile oils, preferably chosen from: - non-volatile fluoro oils, in particular chosen from fluorinated polyethers, fluorosilicone oils and fluorosilicones; - non-volatile silicone oils, in particular chosen from the non-volatile silicones with the following INCI names: dimethicone, dimethiconol, trimethylpentaphenyltrisiloxane, tetramethyltetraphenyltrisiloxane, diphenyl dimethicone, trimethylsiloxyphenyl dimethicone, phenyl trimethicone, diphenylsiloxyphenyl trimethicone; and mixtures thereof; - non-volatile non-polar hydrocarbon-based oils, chosen in particular from linear or branched compounds of inorganic or synthetic origin: i) liquid paraffin, ii) squalane, isoeicosane, iii) mixtures of linear, saturated hydrocarbons, more particularly C 15 -C 28 Hydrocarbons, in particular those with the INCI name (C 15 -C 19 )alkanes, (C 18 -C 21 )alkanes, (C 21 -C 28 ) mixtures of alkanes, iv) hydrogenated or non-hydrogenated polybutene; v) hydrogenated or non-hydrogenated polyisobutene, preferably hydrogenated polyisobutene, vi) hydrogenated or non-hydrogenated polydecene, vii) decene / butene copolymers, butene / isobutene copolymers and viii) mixtures thereof; - non-volatile polar hydrocarbon-based oils which may be chosen from: i) Saturated, unsaturated, linear or branched C 10 -C 26 Fatty alcohols, preferably monohydric alcohols; in particular, C 10 -C 26The alcohols are fatty alcohols, which are preferably branched when they contain at least 16 carbon atoms; preferably, the fatty alcohols contain 10 to 24 carbon atoms and more preferably 12 to 22 carbon atoms, such as, in particular, lauryl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, 2-butyloctanol, 2-undecylpentadecanol, 2-hexyldecanol, isocetyl alcohol, octyldodecanol and mixtures thereof; ii) triglycerides consisting of fatty acid esters of glycerol, in particular those having a C4-C 36 range, and especially in C 18 -C 36 fatty acids of chain lengths in the range 1 to 4, these oils may be linear or branched, and saturated or unsaturated; by way of example, mention may be made especially of heptanoic or caprylic triglycerides, caprylic / capric triglycerides, vegetable oils such as wheat germ oil, sunflower oil, grapeseed oil, sesame seed oil, corn oil, almond oil, castor oil, shea butter, avocado oil, olive oil, soybean oil, sweet almond oil, palm oil, rapeseed oil, cottonseed oil, hazelnut oil, macadamia oil, jojoba oil, alfalfa oil, poppyseed oil, pumpkin oil, marrow oil, black currant oil, evening primrose oil, millet oil, barley oil, quinoa oil, rye oil, safflower oil, kaju oil, passion fruit oil, musk rose oil, peanut oil, coconut oil, argan oil, passion fruit oil, kaya oil; liquid fractions of shea butter, and liquid fractions of cocoa butter; and mixtures thereof; iii) linear aliphatic hydrocarbon-based esters of the formula RC(O)-OR', wherein RC(O)-O- represents a carboxylic acid residue containing 2 to 40 carbon atoms and R' represents a hydrocarbon-based chain containing 1 to 40 carbon atoms, aliphatic hydrocarbon-based esters of alkylene glycols, in particular ethylene glycol or propylene glycol; the total number of carbon atoms is in particular at least 10; they are especially chosen from isoamyl laurate, cetearyl octanoate, isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, isopropyl stearate or isopropyl isostearate, ethyl palmitate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, isostearyl isostearate, octyl stearate, isostearyl heptanoate, octanoic acid esters, capric acid esters or capric acid esters of alcohols or polyols Ricinoleic acid esters, such as propylene glycol dicaprylate, cetyl caprylate or tridecyl caprylate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, alkyl benzoates, polyethylene glycol diheptanoate, propylene glycol bis(2-ethylhexanoate) and mixtures thereof, hexyl laurate, neopentanoic acid esters, such as isodecyl neopentanoate, isotridecyl neopentanoate, isostearyl neopentanoate or 2-octyldodecyl neopentanoate, isononanoic acid esters, in particular isononyl isononanoate, isotridecyl isononanoate or octyl isononanoate, oleyl erucate, isopropyl lauroyl sarcosinate, diisopropyl sebacate, isocetyl stearate, isodecyl neopentanoate, isostearyl behenate or myristyl myristate; iv) hydroxylated esters, in particular polyglyceryl-2 triisostearate; v) aromatic esters, in particular tridecyl trimellitate, C 12 -C 15 benzoate, 2-phenylethyl benzoate, and butyloctanol salicylate; vi) linear fatty acid esters having a total carbon number in the range of 35-70, in particular pentaerythritol tetrapelargonate; vii) C 24 -C 28 Esters of branched fatty acids or alcohols, in particular triisoarachidyl citrate, pentaerythritol tetraisononanoate, glyceryl triisostearate, glyceryl tri(2-decyltetradecanoate), pentaerythritol tetraisostearate, polyglyceryl-2 tetraisostearate or pentaerythritol tetra(2-decyltetradecanoate); viii) polyesters obtained by condensation of dimers and / or trimers of unsaturated fatty acids and glycols, in particular those having the INCI names Dimer Linoleic Acid / Butanediol Copolymer or Dimer Linoleic Acid / Propylene Glycol Copolymer; polyesters obtained by condensation of fatty acid dimers and glycol dimers, in particular Dimer Linoleyl Dimer Dilinoleate; ix) synthetic ethers containing 10 to 40 carbon atoms, in particular dioctyl ether; x) dialkyl carbonates, the two alkyl chains may be identical or different, in particular dicaprylyl carbonate; xi) vinylpyrrolidone copolymers, in particular vinylpyrrolidone / 1-hexadecene copolymers; and xii) mixtures thereof; - Non-volatile carbonate oils may be selected from carbonates of the formula R8-OC(O)-O-R9, wherein R8 and R9 may be the same or different and represent a linear or branched C4-C 12 Alkyl chain and preferably C6-C 10 alkyl chain; the carbonate oil may be dicaprylyl carbonate (or dioctyl carbonate), bis(2-ethylhexyl) carbonate, dipropylheptyl carbonate, dibutyl carbonate, dineopentyl carbonate, dipentyl carbonate, dineoheptyl carbonate, diheptyl carbonate, diisononyl carbonate or dinonyl carbonate and is preferably dicaprylyl carbonate; - oils of the formula R1-O-R2, so-called non-volatile ether oils, wherein R1 and R2 independently represent linear, branched or cyclic C6-C24 Alkyl, preferably C6-C 18 Alkyl, and preferably C8-C 12 Alkyl. It may be preferred that R1 and R2 are identical. Straight-chain alkyl groups that may be mentioned include hexyl, heptyl, octyl, nonyl, decyl, undecyl, dodecyl, tridecyl, tetradecyl, pentadecyl, hexadecyl, heptadecyl, octadecyl, nonadecyl, eicosyl, behenyl, docosyl, tricosyl and tetracosyl. Branched alkyl groups that may be mentioned include 1,1-dimethylpropyl, 3-methylhexyl, 5-methylhexyl, ethylhexyl, 2-ethylhexyl, 5-methyloctyl, 1-ethylhexyl, 1-butylpentyl, 2-butyloctyl, isotridecyl, 2-pentylnonyl, 2-hexyldecyl, isostearyl, 2-heptylundecyl, 2-octyldodecyl, 1,3-dimethylbutyl, 1-(1-methylethyl)-2-methylpropyl, 1,1,3,3-tetramethylbutyl, 3,5,5-trimethylhexyl, 1-(2-methylpropyl)-3-methylbutyl, 3,7-dimethyloctyl and 2-(1,3,3-trimethylbutyl)-5,7,7-trimethyloctyl. As cyclic alkyl groups, mention may be made of cyclohexyl, 3-methylcyclohexyl and 3,3,5-trimethylcyclohexyl, dilauryl ether, diisostearyl ether, dioctyl ether, nonylphenyl ether, dodecyldimethylbutyl ether, cetyldimethylbutyl ether and mixtures thereof.

[0412] Preferably, the non-volatile oil is selected from hydrogenated or non-hydrogenated polyisobutenes, preferably hydrogenated polyisobutenes, in particular Parleam ® Series of non-volatile compounds; C 15 -C 19 mixtures of alkanes, and linear aliphatic hydrocarbon-based esters selected from the formula RC(O)-OR', wherein RC(O)-O represents a carboxylic acid residue containing 2 to 40 carbon atoms and R' represents a hydrocarbon-based chain containing 1 to 40 carbon atoms as previously defined, in particular isononyl isononanoate.

[0413] More preferably, the process of the present invention uses one or more hydrocarbon-based oils containing 8 to 16 carbon atoms, and especially branched C8-C 16 Alkanes, in particular isoalkanes, preferably C 13 -C 16 Isoparaffin, isododecane, isodecane, isohexadecane, and more preferably isododecane.

[0414] According to a preferred embodiment, the process of the invention uses one or more fatty substances iv) different from the compound of formula (I), in particular at least one oil, preferably at least one volatile oil, more preferably at least one volatile oil based on hydrocarbons.

[0415] In particular, in at least one of the compositions "C1", "C2", "C3", "C4" or "C5" used in the process according to the invention, the amount of oil different from compound i) is in the range of 1% to 99% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, more particularly in the range of 2% to 98% by weight, preferably in the range of 3% to 97% by weight, still better still in the range of 5% to 96% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0416] According to another particular embodiment, the process of the invention does not use any fatty substance iv) other than the compound of formula (I).

[0417] According to yet another embodiment, at least one of the compositions "C1", "C2", "C3", "C4" or "C5" used in the process according to the invention contains a mixture of fatty substances v) different from compound i) and chosen from a mixture of at least one volatile oil, preferably a hydrocarbon-based oil, and at least one non-volatile oil, such as a mixture of octyldodecanol.

[0418] Composition Another object of the present invention is a composition, in particular a cosmetic composition, containing at least one compound chosen from the compounds of formulae (Ia), (Ib), (Ic), (Id) and (Ie) as previously described, and their salts, isomers and / or solvates, such as hydrates, more particularly a composition, especially a cosmetic composition, containing at least one compound of formulae (Iic), (Iid) and (Iie) as defined above.

[0419] Another object of the present invention is a composition, especially a cosmetic composition, containing at least one compound chosen from the group consisting of compounds (8), (9), (10), (11), (12), (13) and (14) as previously described, and their salts, isomers and solvates.

[0420] Another object of the present invention is a composition, in particular a cosmetic composition, containing at least one compound chosen from the compounds of formula (I), (Ia), (Ib), (Ic), (Id) and / or (Ie) as previously described, other than compounds (1) to (7) as previously defined, and their salts, isomers and / or solvates, such as hydrates.

[0421] According to one particular embodiment, the method according to the invention for treating keratin materials, in particular the skin and / or lips and / or eyelashes and / or eyebrows, uses water. Thus, according to this variant, at least one of the compositions "C1" to "C5" used in the method according to the invention contains water. According to this variant, compositions "C1", "C2", "C3", "C4" and / or "C5" are aqueous or hydroalcoholic compositions.

[0422] According to a preferred embodiment, the method according to the invention for treating keratin materials, in particular the skin and / or lips and / or eyelashes and / or eyebrows, does not use any water. Thus, according to this variant, compositions "C1", "C2", "C3", "C4" and / or "C5" are anhydrous compositions.

[0423] According to a particular embodiment, at least one of the compositions "C1", "C2", "C3", "C4" and / or "C5" contains an isododecane / ethanol mixture, in particular in a volume ratio ranging from 1 / 99 to 99 / 1, more particularly ranging from 5 / 95 to 95 / 5.

[0424] According to a particular embodiment, at least one of the compositions "C1", "C2", "C3", "C4" and / or "C5" contains an isododecane / octyldodecanol mixture, in particular in a volume ratio ranging from 1 / 99 to 99 / 1, more particularly in a volume ratio ranging from 5 / 95 to 95 / 5.

[0425] According to one particular embodiment, at least one of the compositions "C1", "C2", "C3", "C4" or "C5" may be in the form of a water-in-oil emulsion or an oil-in-water emulsion.

[0426] According to one particular embodiment, the composition "C1", "C4" or "C5" may be in the form of an anhydrous, water-in-oil emulsion or an oil-in-water emulsion.

[0427] According to one particular embodiment, the composition "C4" is anhydrous. In particular, the composition "C4" is anhydrous and comprises at least one oil, in particular a volatile oil, preferably isododecane.

[0428] According to another particular embodiment, the composition "C4" comprises water. In particular, the composition "C4" comprises water and, optionally, at least one volatile or non-volatile oil and / or at least one C1-C4 alcohol, such as ethanol or isopropanol, and / or at least one non-volatile oil.

[0429] The compositions "C1" to "C5" used in the process of the invention may also comprise one or more solvents other than water.

[0430] According to one particular embodiment of the invention, the compound of formula (I) as defined previously is used in a medium containing at least one solvent, preferably at least one polar solvent and / or protic solvent other than water.

[0431] According to this embodiment, the compositions "C1", "C2", "C3", "C4" and / or "C5" used in the process of the invention comprise one or more solvents, preferably one or more polar and / or protic solvents other than water.

[0432] Preferably, the composition "C1", "C2", "C3", "C4" and / or "C5" used in the process of the invention comprises at least one polar and / or protic solvent chosen from monohydric alcohols containing 2 to 6 carbon atoms, in particular chosen from ethanol, propanol, n-butanol, isopropanol, isobutanol, tert-butanol, pentanol and hexanol, preferably n-butanol or ethanol, and even more preferably ethanol.

[0433] According to one embodiment, the compositions "C1", "C2", "C3", "C4" and / or "C5" used in the process of the invention contain one or more solvents other than water in a content of less than 95% by weight and more preferably less than 92% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0434] Organic solvents that may also be mentioned include polyols miscible with water at room temperature (25° C.), especially chosen from polyols containing in particular 2 to 10 carbon atoms, preferably 2 to 6 carbon atoms, such as glycerol, propylene glycol, 1,3-propanediol, butylene glycol, pentanediol, hexylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, diethylene glycol or diglycerol; polyol ethers, such as 2-butoxyethanol, propylene glycol monomethyl ether, diethylene glycol monoethyl ether or diethylene glycol monomethyl ether; and aromatic alcohols, such as benzyl alcohol; and mixtures thereof.

[0435] According to one particular embodiment, the composition also comprises one or more polyols, especially chosen from polyols especially containing from 2 to 10 carbon atoms, preferably from 2 to 6 carbon atoms, preferably glycerol.

[0436] The composition "C1", "C2", "C3", "C4" or "C5" used in the method of the present invention may also contain one or more adjuvants commonly used in cosmetics, in particular chosen from thickeners, film formers, gelling agents, trace elements, emollients, chelating agents, fragrances, alkalizing or acidifying agents, dispersants, preservatives, fillers, surfactants, propellants, polar additives and polymers, or mixtures thereof.

[0437] Another object of the application is a composition "C3" comprising i) at least one compound of formula (I), or (la), (lb), (lc), (Id), (le), (lie), (lid) and / or (lie) as defined previously, ii) at least one crosslinking agent, in particular a crosslinking agent as defined previously, and iii) at least one cosmetic active agent, in particular a cosmetic active agent as defined previously.

[0438] Another object of the application is the cosmetic use of a composition "C3" as defined previously for treating keratin materials, for caring for and / or making up keratin materials, in particular the skin and / or the lips and / or the eyelashes and / or the eyebrows.

[0439] The composition "C1 ", "C2", "C3", "C4" or "C5" is generally suitable for application to keratin materials, in particular to the skin and / or the lips, and thus generally comprises a physiologically acceptable medium, i.e. a medium that is compatible with keratin materials, in particular for application to the skin and / or the lips.

[0440] It is preferably a cosmetically acceptable medium, i.e. a medium that has a pleasant colour, odour and feel and does not cause any unacceptable discomfort (i.e. stinging or tautness) that might discourage the user from applying the composition.

[0441] The composition "C1 ", "C2", "C3", "C4" or "C5" can be in the form of a makeup product for the skin, in particular a coloured makeup product, in particular a foundation (optionally with care properties), a blush, a loose powder, an eyeshadow, a concealer, an eyeliner; a lip makeup product such as a lipstick (optionally with care properties), a lip gloss or a lip pencil; a makeup product for the external skin such as the nails or the eyelashes, in particular in the form of a cake mascara, or for the eyebrows, or in the form of a product for temporary tattoos on the body skin.

[0442] According to one particular embodiment, the composition "C1 ", "C2", "C3", "C4" or "C5" is in the form of: - a coloured product for the lips; or - a skincare product, which can be coloured, in particular a cream or a fluid with moisturizing and / or filling and / or firming properties.

[0443] Kit According to yet another of its aspects, the application also relates to a multi-compartment kit or device, in particular a makeup kit or device, comprising: - at least one compartment containing i) at least one compound of formula (I), or (Ia), (Ib), (Ic), (Id) and / or (Ie) as defined previously, and optionally iii) at least one cosmetic active agent, in particular as defined previously; it comprises in particular a composition "C1" as defined previously; - at least one compartment, different from the compartment containing i) and containing ii) at least one crosslinking agent, in particular as previously defined, and optionally iii) at least one cosmetic active agent, in particular as previously defined; it comprises in particular a composition "C4" as previously defined; and - Optionally, at least one compartment, different from the compartment containing i) and ii) and containing iii) at least one cosmetic active agent, in particular as defined previously, which may be identical to or different from the cosmetic active agent optionally contained in the compartment containing i) and ii).

[0444] Preferably, at least the compartment comprising i), in particular comprising composition "C1", does not comprise any crosslinking agent ii).

[0445] Preferably, the compartment comprising at least one crosslinker ii), in particular comprising composition "C4", does not contain i) any compound of formula (I).

[0446] The present invention is illustrated in more detail by the examples presented below. Unless otherwise indicated, the amounts shown are expressed as mass percentages. Example

[0447] Methods and measurements Skin application a) One-step solution The compound of formula (I) having an acetoacetate functional group and the cross-linking agent are mixed together prior to application.The system remains fluid long enough to allow application to the substrate.

[0448] The composition is applied to an in vitro support of the Bioskin type (Bioskin plate no. 10) from Maprecos (elastomeric skin-simulating support) using a film spreader (wet thickness of 100 μm).The deposit is allowed to dry for 24 hours.

[0449] After drying for 24 hours, the deposits were evaluated according to the protocol described below.

[0450] b) Two-step approach A first composition, called "base coat", is applied using a film applicator (100 μιη wet thickness) to a Bioskin type in vitro support (Bioskin plate n°10) from Maprecos (elastomeric skin mimic support). The deposit is left to dry for 24 hours.

[0451] After this first step, a second composition, called "top coat", is applied in the same way.

[0452] The deposit is left to dry for 24 hours.

[0453] After 24 hours of drying, the deposit is evaluated according to the protocol described below.

[0454] Resistance to tape A piece of adhesive tape (Scotch® Magic™ 810 from 3M; w = 19 mm, L = 5 cm) is applied to the deposit. A weight of about 1070 g is placed on this piece of tape for 30 seconds. This piece of tape is then removed and mounted on a slide holder to properly observe the results. The adhesion of the film to the support is thus evaluated.

[0455] Resistance to olive oil / sebum / water 0.5 mL of olive oil, sebum or water is applied to the film of the formulation. After 5 minutes, the olive oil, sebum or water is removed by rubbing with absorbent cotton 15 times. The film is thus checked for its degradation after contact with a drop of an attacking agent. The resistance is evaluated according to the following scale: +++ : no attack of the deposit, which remains intact; ++ : a small amount of transfer, but the deposit remains intact; + : the deposit is slightly altered and some transfer is observed; 0 : the deposit is completely degraded and there is much transfer onto the absorbent cotton.

[0456] Fragmentation test of the formulation on Bioskin As for the test of resistance to olive oil / sebum / water and to adhesive tape, the film is applied to a Bioskin sample. After one day of drying, the Bioskin plate is stretched 10 times using a manual force.

[0457] Next, the results are observed on the film (cracking or not).

[0458] The evaluation is done as follows: +++ : the cosmetic property is evaluated as highly effective; ++ : the cosmetic property is evaluated as moderately effective; + : the cosmetic property is evaluated as slightly effective; 0: The cosmetic product is evaluated as invalid.

[0459] Example 1: Synthesis of castor oil with acetoacetate functional group (Compound 1) The synthesis is represented by the following preparation scheme: 50 g of castor oil (sold by Interchimie) and 25.40 g of tert-butyl acetoacetate were placed in a 250 mL SVL distillation vessel equipped with a mechanical stirrer, a thermometer and a distillation column. ® The reaction medium is heated in an oil bath at 130° C. After 7 hours, the reaction medium is cooled, placed in a 250 ml pear-shaped flask and heated on a rotary evaporator at 120° C. under continuous vacuum for 1 hour.

[0460] Example 2: Synthesis of Hydroxylated Castor Oil (Compound 2) with Acetoacetate Functional Group The synthesis is represented by the following preparation scheme: Step a): Step b): In step a), hydroxylated castor oil is prepared by adding 10 g of castor oil (sold by Interchimie), 9 g of 3-mercapto-1,2-propanediol (sold by Sigma-Aldrich) and 0.7 g of 2-hydroxy-2-methylpropiophenone (sold by Sigma-Aldrich) to 20 mL of ethyl acetate in a 250 mL round-bottom flask equipped with a mechanical stirrer and stirring under argon for 5 minutes. The reaction medium is then irradiated under a UV lamp (100 W, 365 nm) for 4 hours and then washed three times with water saturated with NaCl.

[0461] The organic phase was separated, dried over MgSO4 and then concentrated under vacuum. Finally, the solvent as well as traces of thiol and photoinitiator (2-hydroxy-2-methylpropiophenone) were removed by distillation under reduced pressure. The obtained product was used as is in the next step.

[0462] In step b), the hydroxylated castor oil is functionalized with acetoacetate groups: 10 g of the hydroxylated castor oil obtained in step a) and 12 g of tert-butyl acetoacetate are placed in a 250 ml round-bottom flask equipped with a mechanical stirrer. The reaction mixture is heated in an oil bath at 130°C. After 4 hours, the reaction mixture is placed under continuous vacuum for 1 hour. A yellow, viscous oil is obtained.

[0463] Example 3: Synthesis of epoxidized oil with acetoacetate functional group (Compound 3) The synthesis is represented by the following preparation scheme: Step a): Step b): In step a), 200 g of epoxidized oil (Vikoflex 7170 sold by Arkema), 50.4 g of lactic acid and 6.52 g of caffeine were placed in a 500 mL SVL equipped with a mechanical stirrer, an argon inlet and a distillation column. ® The reaction mixture was heated at 120°C for 5 hours to obtain a polyhydroxylated compound as a slightly yellow viscous oil.

[0464] In step b), 165 g of the polyhydroxylated compound obtained in step a) and 116.74 g of tert-butyl acetoacetate were added to a 500 mL SVL reactor equipped with a mechanical stirrer, an argon inlet and a distillation column. ® The reaction medium is heated between 130° C. and 140° C. for 5 hours. After 5 hours of heating, the medium is placed under vacuum at 50 mbar and 140° C. An orange viscous oil is obtained.

[0465] The resulting oil was diluted with ethyl acetate and washed three times with saturated sodium bicarbonate solution and then twice with water. The organic phase was filtered over MgSO4 and the ethyl acetate was then distilled off on a rotary evaporator at 100°C under reduced pressure. A slightly orange viscous oil was obtained.

[0466] Example 4: Synthesis of soybean oil with acetoacetate functional group (Compound 4) The synthesis is represented by the following preparation scheme: Step a): Step b): In step a), 10 g of soybean oil (Henry Lamotte Oils), 10 g of 3-mercapto-1,2-propylene glycol (sold by Sigma-Aldrich) and 0.8 g of 2-hydroxy-2-methylpropiophenone (sold by Sigma-Aldrich) were added to 25 mL of ethyl acetate in a 250 mL round-bottom flask equipped with a mechanical stirrer and stirred under argon for 5 minutes. The reaction medium was then irradiated under a UV lamp (100 W, 365 nm) for 4 hours and then washed three times with water saturated with NaCl. The organic phase was separated, dried over MgSO4 and then concentrated under vacuum. The solvent and trace amounts of thiol and photoinitiator were removed by distillation under reduced pressure.

[0467] In step b), 10 g of the hydroxylated soybean oil obtained in step a) and 14 g of t-butyl acetoacetate were placed in a 250 ml round-bottom flask equipped with a mechanical stirrer. The reaction medium was then heated in an oil bath at 130°C. After 4 hours, the reaction medium was cooled and placed under continuous vacuum for 1 hour to remove excess t-butyl acetoacetate. A yellow, viscous oil was obtained.

[0468] Example 5: Synthesis of an "acidic" oil (Compound 5) with an acetoacetate functional group The synthesis is represented by the following preparation scheme: Step a): Step b): Step c): In step a), 100 g of citric acid and 419 g of oleyl alcohol were placed in a 500 mL SVL reactor equipped with a mechanical stirrer and a distillation column. ® The reaction medium was heated at 190° C. for 7 hours and then at 220° C. for 5 hours using a heating mantle. The reaction was monitored by the acid value. When the acid value was less than 5, the reaction was stopped.

[0469] In step b), the acidic oil obtained in 100 g of step a), 70 g of 3-mercapto-1,2-propylene glycol (sold by Sigma-Aldrich) and 5 g of 2-hydroxy-2-methylpropiophenone (sold by Sigma-Aldrich) were added to 15 mL of ethyl acetate in a 250 mL round-bottom flask equipped with a mechanical stirrer and stirred under argon for 5 minutes. The reaction medium was then irradiated under a UV lamp (100 W, 365 nm) for 4 hours and then washed three times with water saturated with NaCl. The organic phase was separated, dried over MgSO4 and then concentrated under vacuum. The solvent and trace mercaptan and photoinitiator (2-hydroxy-2-methylpropiophenone) were removed by distillation under reduced pressure.

[0470] In step c), 100 g of the hydroxylated acidic oil obtained in step b) and 100 g of tert-butyl acetoacetate are placed in a 250 ml round-bottom flask equipped with a mechanical stirrer. The reaction medium is heated in an oil bath at 130°C. After a 4-hour reaction, the reaction medium is placed under continuous vacuum for 1 hour. A brown, viscous oil is obtained.

[0471] Example 6: Synthesis of castor oil with acetoacetate functional group (Compound 6) The synthesis is represented by the following preparation scheme: Step a): Step b) : In step a), 100 g of castor oil (sold by the company Interchimie), 17 g of 3- mercapto-1,2-propanediol (sold by the company Sigma-Aldrich) and 1 g of 2-hydroxy-2- methylpropiophenone (sold by the company Sigma-Aldrich) were added to 20 mL of ethyl acetate in a 250 mL round-bottomed flask equipped with a mechanical stirrer and stirred for 5 minutes under argon. The reaction medium was then irradiated under a UV lamp (100 W, 365 nm) for 4 hours and then washed three times with water saturated with NaCI. The organic phase was isolated, dried over MgS04and then concentrated under vacuum. The solvent was removed by distillation under reduced pressure, as well as traces of thiol and photoinitiator (2-hydroxy-2-methylpropiophenone).

[0472] In step b), 100 g of the hydroxylated castor oil obtained in step a) and 99 g of tert-butyl acetoacetate were placed in a 250 ml round-bottomed flask equipped with a mechanical stirrer. The reaction medium was then heated at 130°C on an oil bath (nominal temperature of the oil bath 140°C). After 4 hours, the reaction medium was left under continuous vacuum for 1 hour. A yellow, viscous oil was obtained.

[0473] Example 7: Synthesis of mannitol dihexanoate (Compound 7) with acetoacetate functional group The synthesis is represented by the following preparation scheme: Step a) : Step b) : In step a), mannitol dihexanoate was obtained from mannitol under the conditions described in the publication Angew. Chem. Int. Ed. 2010, 49, 7695-7698.

[0474] After 64 hours at 45°C, the reaction medium was filtered and then concentrated under reduced pressure. The crude compound obtained after filtration and evaporation was then triturated in dichloromethane.

[0475] In step b), 4 equivalents of 2,2,6-trimethyl-1,3-dioxin-4-one in p-xylene were heated at 140°C for 2 hours. The compound mannitol dihexanoate acetoacetate was purified by chromatography on silica gel.

[0476] Example 8: Preparation of Composition AE Composition A comprising a compound of formula (I) according to the invention, and compositions BE comprising a compound of formula (I) according to the invention and a crosslinking agent were prepared using the contents shown in the following table. The contents are expressed as percentages by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0477] [Table 1] Table 1 Compositions AE were prepared by briefly mixing the ingredients detailed in Table 1 using a high-speed mixer (a mixing device that uses centrifugal force) at 3500 rpm and room temperature for 2 minutes.

[0478] Example 9: One-step skin application of composition AE Compositions AE were applied according to the one-step skin application protocol described previously.

[0479] The resistance of the deposit to olive oil, to sebum and to water, resistance to adhesive tape and the fragmentation test of the formulations on Bioskin were then evaluated according to the protocol.

[0480] The evaluation results are summarized in the following table: [Table 2] Table 2 It can be seen that the application of compositions BE according to the process of the invention makes it possible to obtain a very significantly improved permanence on olive oil, on water and on sebum compared to the application of composition A, and the tape and fragmentation tests are also very interesting, thus showing that compositions BE are cohesive and adhere to the support.

[0481] As a result of applying compositions BE according to the method of the invention, a deposit is obtained that is resistant to daily chemical attacks (water / sebum / olive oil) and very resistant to mechanical stress (fragmentation).

[0482] Example 10: Preparation of Composition FH Composition F comprising a compound of formula (I), and compositions G and H comprising a compound of formula (I) and a crosslinking agent were prepared using the amounts shown in the following table. The amounts are expressed as weight percentages relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0483] [Table 3] Table 3 Compositions FH were prepared by briefly mixing the ingredients detailed in Table 3 using a high-speed mixer (a mixing device that uses centrifugal force) at 3500 rpm and room temperature for 2 minutes.

[0484] Example 11: One-step skin application of composition FH Compositions FH were applied according to the one-step skin application protocol described previously.

[0485] The resistance of the deposit to olive oil, to sebum and to water was then evaluated according to the protocol, as well as the fragmentation test of the formulations on Bioskin.

[0486] The evaluation results are summarized in the following table: [Table 4] Table 4 It can be seen that the application of compositions G and H according to the method of the invention makes it possible to obtain an improved persistence towards olive oil, towards water and towards sebum compared to the application of composition F, and the fragmentation test is also very interesting.

[0487] As a result of the application of compositions G and H according to the method of the invention, a deposit is obtained that is resistant to daily chemical attacks (water / sebum / olive oil) and very resistant to mechanical stress (fragmentation).

[0488] Example 12: Preparation of Compositions I and J Composition I comprising a compound of formula (I), and composition J comprising a compound of formula (I) and a crosslinking agent were prepared using the amounts shown in the following table. The amounts are expressed as weight percentages relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0489] [Table 5] Table 5 Compositions I and J were prepared by briefly mixing the ingredients detailed in Table 5 using a high-speed mixer (a mixing device that uses centrifugal force) at 3500 rpm and room temperature for 2 minutes.

[0490] Example 13: One-step skin application of compositions I and J Compositions I and J were applied according to the one-step skin application protocol described previously.

[0491] The resistance of the deposit to olive oil, to sebum and to water was then evaluated according to the protocol, as well as the fragmentation test of the formulations on Bioskin.

[0492] The evaluation results are summarized in the following table: [Table 6] Table 6 It can be seen that the application of composition J according to the method of the invention makes it possible to obtain an improved persistence towards olive oil, towards water and towards sebum compared to the application of composition I, and the fragmentation test is also very interesting.

[0493] As a result of applying composition J according to the method of the invention, a deposit is obtained that is resistant to daily chemical attacks (water / sebum / olive oil) and very resistant to mechanical stress (fragmentation).

[0494] Example 14: Preparation of Compositions K and L Composition K comprising a compound of formula (I), and composition L comprising a compound of formula (I) and a crosslinking agent were prepared using the amounts shown in the following table. The amounts are expressed as weight percentages relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0495] [Table 7] Table 7 Compositions K and L were prepared by briefly mixing the ingredients detailed in Table 7 using a high-speed mixer (a mixing device that uses centrifugal force) at 3500 rpm and room temperature for 2 minutes.

[0496] Example 15: One-step skin application of compositions K and L Compositions K and L were applied according to the one-step skin application protocol described previously.

[0497] The resistance of the deposit to olive oil, to sebum and to water, resistance to adhesive tape and the fragmentation test of the formulations on Bioskin were then evaluated according to the protocol.

[0498] The evaluation results are summarized in the following table: [Table 8] Table 8 It can be seen that the application of composition L according to the process of the invention makes it possible to obtain an improved permanence on olive oil, on water and on sebum compared to the application of composition K, and the tape and fragmentation tests are also very interesting, indicating that composition L is cohesive and adheres to the support.

[0499] As a result of applying composition L according to the method of the invention, a deposit is obtained that is resistant to daily chemical attacks (water / sebum / olive oil) and very resistant to mechanical stress (fragmentation).

[0500] Example 16: Preparation of Compositions M and N Composition M comprising a compound of formula (I), and composition N comprising a compound of formula (I) and a crosslinking agent were prepared using the amounts shown in the following table. The amounts are expressed as weight percentages relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0501] [Table 9] Table 9 Compositions M and N were prepared by briefly mixing the ingredients detailed in Table 9 using a high-speed mixer (a mixing device that uses centrifugal force) at 3500 rpm and room temperature for 2 minutes.

[0502] Example 17: One-step skin application of compositions M and N Compositions M and N were applied according to the one-step skin application protocol described previously.

[0503] The resistance of the deposit to olive oil, to sebum and to water, resistance to adhesive tape and the fragmentation test of the formulations on Bioskin were then evaluated according to the protocol.

[0504] The evaluation results are summarized in the following table: [Table 10] Table 10 It can be seen that the application of composition N according to the process of the invention makes it possible to obtain an improved permanence on olive oil, on water and on sebum compared to the application of composition M, and the tape and fragmentation tests are also very interesting, indicating that composition N is cohesive and adheres to the support.

[0505] As a result of the application of composition N according to the method of the invention, a deposit is obtained that is resistant to daily chemical attacks (water / sebum / olive oil) and very resistant to mechanical stress (fragmentation).

[0506] Example 18: Preparation of composition OR Compositions OR were prepared using the contents indicated in the table below. The contents are expressed as percentages by weight relative to the total weight of the composition under consideration.

[0507] [Table 11] Table 11 The "Base Coat" and "Top Coat" compositions were prepared by briefly mixing the ingredients detailed in Table 11 using a high-speed mixer (a mixing device that uses centrifugal force) at 3500 rpm and room temperature for 2 minutes.

[0508] Example 19: One-step or two-step skin application of composition OR Composition OR is applied according to the one-step or two-step skin application protocol previously described.

[0509] The resistance of the deposit to olive oil, to sebum and to water, resistance to adhesive tape and the fragmentation test of the formulations on Bioskin were then evaluated according to the protocol.

[0510] The evaluation results are summarized in the following table: [Table 12] Table 12 It can be seen that the application of formula PR according to the process of the invention makes it possible to obtain an improved permanence on olive oil, on water and on sebum compared to the application of composition O, and the tape and fragmentation tests are also very interesting, indicating that composition PR is cohesive and adheres to the support.

[0511] As a result of applying the formula PR according to the method of the invention, a deposit is obtained that is resistant to daily chemical attacks (water / sebum / olive oil) and has a tonic effect on the Bioskin.

[0512] Example 20: Preparation of Compositions S and T Composition S comprising a compound of formula (I), and composition T comprising a compound of formula (I) and a crosslinking agent were prepared using the contents shown in the following table. The contents are expressed as weight percentages relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0513] [Table 13] Table 13 Compositions S and T were prepared by briefly mixing the ingredients detailed in Table 13 using a high-speed mixer (a mixing device that uses centrifugal force) at 3500 rpm and room temperature for 2 minutes.

[0514] Example 21: One-step skin application of compositions S and T Compositions S and T were applied according to the one-step skin application protocol described previously.

[0515] The resistance of the deposit to olive oil, to sebum and to water, resistance to adhesive tape and the fragmentation test of the formulations on Bioskin were then evaluated according to the protocol.

[0516] The evaluation results are summarized in the following table: [Table 14] Table 14 It can be seen that the application of composition T according to the process of the invention makes it possible to obtain an improved permanence on olive oil, on water and on sebum compared to the application of composition S, and the tape and fragmentation tests are also very interesting, indicating that composition T is cohesive and adheres to the support.

[0517] As a result of applying composition T according to the method of the invention, a deposit is obtained that is resistant to daily chemical attacks (water / sebum / olive oil) and very resistant to mechanical stress (fragmentation).

[0518] Example 22: Preparation of Compositions U and V Composition U comprising a compound of formula (I), and composition V comprising a compound of formula (I) and a crosslinking agent were prepared using the amounts shown in the following table. The amounts are expressed as weight percentages relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0519] [Table 15] Table 15 Compositions U and V were prepared by briefly mixing the ingredients detailed in Table 15 using a high-speed mixer (a mixing device that uses centrifugal force) at 3500 rpm and room temperature for 2 minutes.

[0520] Example 23: One-step skin application of compositions U and V Compositions U and V were applied according to the one-step skin application protocol described previously.

[0521] The resistance of the deposit to olive oil, to sebum and to water was then evaluated according to the protocol, as well as the fragmentation test of the formulations on Bioskin.

[0522] The evaluation results are summarized in the following table: [Table 16] Table 16 It can be seen that the application of composition V according to the method of the invention makes it possible to obtain an improved permanence on olive oil, on water and on sebum compared to the application of composition U, and the fragmentation test is also very interesting.

[0523] As a result of applying composition V according to the method of the invention, a deposit is obtained that is resistant to daily chemical attacks (water / sebum / olive oil) and very resistant to mechanical stress (fragmentation).

Claims

1. A method for treating, in particular cosmetically treating, keratin materials, in particular the skin and / or lips and / or eyelashes and / or eyebrows, comprising applying to said keratin materials, in particular the skin and / or lips and / or eyelashes and / or eyebrows, in one or more successive steps, at least: i) one or more compounds of formula (I), as well as optical or geometric isomers thereof, and / or solvates thereof, such as hydrates, or compositions containing them: (I) In the formula (I): - Z represents a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, conjugated or non-conjugated, acyclic or cyclic, aromatic or non-aromatic polyvalent C2-C 40 Hydrocarbon-based groups, especially C3-C 36 Based on hydrocarbon groups, Z can be one or more selected from -O-, -N(R a )-, -S-, -C(O)-, (hetero)cyclic ring and combinations thereof or heteroatom insertion; - AK1 represents a divalent saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched C1-C 12 A hydrocarbon-based chain, preferably a C1-C6 hydrocarbon-based chain, more preferably a saturated C1-C6 hydrocarbon-based chain; - AK2 represents a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C1-C 40 A monovalent hydrocarbon-based chain optionally substituted with one or more groups selected from -OR, -X-AK3-(OC(O)-C(R a )(R b )-C(O)-R4) v and / or the chain is optionally interrupted by one or more heteroatoms or groups selected from -O-, -S-, -C(O)-, (hetero)cycle and combinations thereof, in particular -OC(O)-, -C(O)-O- and / or -(hetero)cycle-O-(hetero)cycle-; - AK3 represents a divalent straight or branched, saturated or unsaturated C1-C 12 A hydrocarbon-based chain, preferably a C1-C6 hydrocarbon-based chain, more preferably a saturated C1-C6 hydrocarbon-based chain, even more preferably a C1-C4 hydrocarbon-based chain; - R represents a hydrogen atom, a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C1-C6 hydrocarbon group, preferably a C1-C4 hydrocarbon group, in particular a methyl group, or a group -C(O)-C(R a )(R b )-C(O)-R4; - X represents -O-, -S-, -OC(O)- or -C(O)-O-; - Y represents -OC(O)- or -C(O)-O-; - R4 represents a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C1-C6 monovalent hydrocarbon-based group, preferably a (C1-C4) hydrocarbon group, in particular a methyl group or a tert-butyl group, more preferably a methyl group; - R a and R b may be the same or different, and represent a hydrogen atom or a (C1-C4) alkyl group, preferably a hydrogen atom; - p represents an integer equal to 0 or 1; - m represents an integer equal to 0, 1, 2, 3 or 4; it is understood that when m is greater than 1, the groups -Y-AK2 are identical or different; - n represents an integer equal to 0, 1, 2, 3 or 4; it is understood that when n is greater than 1, the group -(O) t -(AK1) q -(OC(O)-C(R a )(R b )-C(O)-R4) u to be the same or different; - t represents an integer equal to 0 or 1; - q represents an integer equal to 0 or 1; - u represents an integer equal to 1, 2 or 3; - v represents an integer equal to 1, 2 or 3; It will be understood that if q is equal to 0 then t is equal to 0, (m + n) is greater than or equal to 1, and the compound of formula (I) contains at least two groups -C(O)-C(R a )(R b )-C(O)-R4; and ii) at least one cross-linking agent.

2. The process according to claim 1, wherein the compound of formula (I), as well as its optical or geometric isomers and / or its solvates, such as hydrates, is such that: - Z represents a trivalent group -CH2-CH-CH2-; - p is equal to 0; - n is equal to 0; - m is equal to 3; - AK2 represents a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C 12 -C 24 A monovalent hydrocarbon-based chain optionally substituted with one or more groups selected from -OR, -X-AK3-(OC(O)-C(R a )(R b )-C(O)-R4) v and / or the chain is optionally interrupted by one or more heteroatoms or groups selected from -O-, -S-, -C(O)-, epoxides and combinations thereof, in particular O-(CO)- or (CO)-O-; - Y, AK3, v, R, X, R4, R a and R b As defined in claim 1; It is understood that the compound contains at least two groups -C(O)-C(R a )(R b )-C(O)-R4.

3. The treatment process according to claim 1, wherein the compound of formula (I), and its optical or geometric isomers and / or solvates, such as hydrates, are such that: - p is equal to 0; - Z represents a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, preferably saturated, non-cyclic monovalent C4-C 24 Hydrocarbon-based groups, especially C6-C 20 Hydrocarbon-based groups, more particularly C 14 -C 20 Hydrocarbon-based groups, especially C 17 Hydrocarbon-based groups, Z is optionally further replaced by one or more groups -[(O) t -(AK1) q -(OC(O)-C(R a )(R b )-C(O)-R4) u ] n replace; - n represents an integer equal to 0, 1, 2, 3 or 4; it is understood that when n is greater than 1, the group -(O) t -(AK1) q -(OC(O)-C(R a )(R b )-C(O)-R4) u are the same or different; preferably, n is non-zero; - m is equal to 1; - AK2 represents a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, preferably saturated C3-C8 monovalent hydrocarbon-based chain, in particular a C4 or C6 monovalent hydrocarbon-based chain, which is replaced by one or more selected from -OR, -X-AK3-(OC(O)-C(R a )(R b )-C(O)-R4) v the chain is optionally substituted by identical or different groups of -O-, preferably by one or more groups -OR; and / or the chain is optionally interrupted by one or more heteroatoms or groups selected from -O-, -S-, -C(O)-, (hetero)cycle and combinations thereof, in particular -OC(O)-, -C(O)-O-, -(hetero)cycle-O-(hetero)cycle-, and preferably is not interrupted; - Y, AK1, AK3, t, q, u, v, R, X, R4, R a and R b As defined in claim 1; It is understood that the compound contains at least two groups -C(O)-C(R a )(R b )-C(O)-R4.

4. The treatment process according to claim 1, wherein the compound of formula (I), and its optical or geometric isomers and / or solvates, such as hydrates, are such that: - p is equal to 0; - n + m is equal to 4, m is non-zero; - Z represents an unsubstituted or uninterrupted, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, preferably saturated and acyclic C2-C 24 Tetravalent hydrocarbon-based groups, especially C3-C 10 tetravalent hydrocarbon-based groups, particularly C3 tetravalent hydrocarbon-based groups; - AK2 independently represents a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, preferably saturated C 12 -C 24 Monovalent hydrocarbon-based chains, preferably C 16 -C 20 Monovalent hydrocarbon-based chains, especially C 18 A monovalent hydrocarbon-based chain optionally substituted with one or more groups selected from -OR and -X-AK3-(OC(O)-C(R a )(R b )-C(O)-R4) v The same or different groups are substituted, preferably by one or more groups -X-AK3-(OC(O)-C(R a )(R b )-C(O)-R4) v substituted; and / or the chain is optionally interrupted by one or more heteroatoms or groups selected from -O-, -S-, -C(O)-, (hetero)cycle and combinations thereof, in particular -OC(O)-, -C(O)-O-, -(hetero)cycle-O-(hetero)cycle-, and preferably is not interrupted; - AK3 represents a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C1-C 12 a divalent hydrocarbon-based chain, preferably a C1-C6 divalent hydrocarbon-based chain, more preferably a saturated C1-C6 divalent hydrocarbon-based chain, even more preferably a C2-C4 divalent hydrocarbon-based chain, still better still a C3 divalent hydrocarbon-based chain; - v as defined in claim 1; preferably, v is equal to 2; - X is as defined in claim 1; preferably, X represents a sulfur atom; - Y, AK1, u, t, q, R, R4, R a and R b As defined in claim 1; It is understood that the compound contains at least two groups -C(O)-C(R a )(R b )-C(O)-R4.

5. The treatment process according to claim 1, wherein the compound of formula (I), and its optical or geometric isomers and / or solvates, such as hydrates, are such that: - p is equal to 1; - Z represents a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, preferably saturated and acyclic polyvalent C 14 -C 24 Hydrocarbon-based groups, especially C 16 -C 20 Hydrocarbon-based groups, preferably C 17 Hydrocarbon-based groups, Z is optionally further replaced by one or more groups -[(O) t -(AK1) q -(OC(O)-C(R a )(R b )-C(O)-R4) u ] n substituted, preferably unsubstituted; - AK2 represents a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, preferably saturated C 14 -C 30 Monovalent hydrocarbon-based chains, especially C 20 -C 29 A monovalent hydrocarbon-based chain, which is separated by one or more selected from -OR, -X-AK3-(OC(O)-C(R a )(R b )-C(O)-R4) v The chain is optionally substituted by one or more identical or different groups, preferably by one or more groups -OR; and / or the chain is optionally interrupted by one or more heteroatoms or groups selected from -O-, -S-, -C(O)-, (hetero)cycle and combinations thereof, in particular -OC(O)-, -C(O)-O-, -(hetero)cycle-O-(hetero)cycle-, and preferably by -OC(O)- or -C(O)-O-; - X is as defined in claim 1; preferably, X represents a sulfur atom; - Y, AK1, AK3, n, m, v, t, q, u, R, R4, R a and R b As defined in claim 1; It is understood that the compound contains at least two groups -C(O)-C(R a )(R b )-C(O)-R4.

6. The process according to claim 1, wherein the compound of formula (I), and its optical or geometric isomers and / or solvates, such as hydrates, are such that: - p is equal to 0; - Z represents a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, preferably saturated and acyclic C2-C 24 Tetravalent hydrocarbon-based groups, especially C3-C 10 A tetravalent hydrocarbon-based group, preferably a C4 or C5 tetravalent hydrocarbon-based group, Z is further replaced by one or more groups -[(O) t -(AK1) q -(OC(O)-C(R a )(R b )-C(O)-R4) u ] n substituted, n is preferably equal to 1; - n + m is equal to 4, and preferably m is equal to 3; - AK2 independently represents a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, preferably saturated C 14 -C 30 Hydrocarbon-based chains, preferably C 16 -C 24 Hydrocarbon-based chains, preferably C 17 A hydrocarbon-based chain optionally substituted with one or more residues selected from -OR, -X-AK3-(OC(O)-C(R a )(R b )-C(O)-R4) v the chain is optionally substituted by identical or different groups of -O-, -S-, -C(O)-, (hetero)cycle and combinations thereof, in particular -OC(O)-, -C(O)-O-, -(hetero)cycle-O-(hetero)cycle, and preferably is not interrupted by one or more heteroatoms or groups; - X is as defined in claim 1 and preferably X represents a sulfur atom; - Y, AK1, AK3, u, t, q, v, n, m, R, R4, R a and R b As defined in claim 1; It is understood that the compound contains at least two groups -C(O)-C(R a )(R b )-C(O)-R4.

7. The treatment process according to claim 1, wherein the compound of formula (I), and its optical or geometric isomers and / or solvates, such as hydrates, are such that: - p is equal to 0; - m is non-zero; - Z represents a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, conjugated or non-conjugated, preferably non-conjugated, acyclic or cyclic, aromatic or non-aromatic, preferably non-aromatic divalent C2-C 24 Hydrocarbon-based groups, especially C3-C 12 The hydrocarbon-based group, said group Z is further substituted by one or more selected from -O-, -N(R a )-, -S-, -C(O)-, 5-membered or 6-membered heterocycloalkyl, and combinations thereof; - AK2 represents a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, preferably saturated C 14 -C 30 Monovalent hydrocarbon-based chains, preferably C 14 -C 24 Monovalent hydrocarbon-based chains, preferably C 17 A monovalent hydrocarbon-based chain optionally substituted with one or more residues selected from -OR and -X-AK3-(OC(O)-C(R a )(R b )-C(O)-R4) v and / or the chain is optionally interrupted by one or more heteroatoms or groups selected from -O-, -S-, -C(O)-, (hetero)cycle and combinations thereof, in particular -OC(O)-, -C(O)-O- or -(hetero)cycle-O-(hetero)cycle-, preferably optionally interrupted by -OC(O)- or -C(O)-O-, and more preferably not interrupted by; - X is as defined in claim 1 and preferably X represents a sulfur atom; - Y, AK1, AK3, v, t, q, u, R, R4, R a and R b As defined in claim 1; It is understood that the compound contains at least two groups -C(O)-C(R a )(R b )-C(O)-R4.

8. The treatment process according to claim 1, wherein the compound of formula (I), and its optical or geometric isomers and / or solvates, such as hydrates, are such that: - p is equal to 0; - Z represents a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, preferably saturated and acyclic C2-C 24 Tetravalent hydrocarbon-based groups, especially C3-C 10 A tetravalent hydrocarbon-based group, preferably a C4 or C5 tetravalent hydrocarbon-based group, Z is further replaced by one or more groups -[(O) t -(AK1) q -(OC(O)-C(R a )(R b )-C(O)-R4) u ] n replace; - n + m is equal to 6, and preferably m is equal to 2; - AK2 represents a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, preferably saturated, C3-C8 monovalent hydrocarbon-based chain, in particular a C4, C5 or C6 monovalent hydrocarbon-based chain; Y, AK1, AK3, t, q, u, v, R, X, R4, R a and R b As previously defined for formula (I); It is understood that the compound contains at least two groups -C(O)-C(R a )(R b )-C(O)-R4.

9. The treatment method according to claim 1, wherein the compound of formula (I) is selected from the following formula (I a ), and its optical or geometric isomers and / or solvates, such as hydrates: Z-(Y-AK2)3 (Ia) In the formula (Ia): - Z represents -CH2-CH-CH2-; - AK2 independently represents a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C 12 -C 24 A monovalent hydrocarbon-based chain optionally substituted with one or more residues selected from -OR and -X-AK3-(OC(O)-C(R a )(R b )-C(O)-R4) v and / or the chain is optionally interrupted by one or more heteroatoms or groups selected from -O-, -S-, -C(O)-, epoxides and combinations thereof, in particular OC(O)- and -C(O)-O-; - Y, AK3, v, R, X, R4, R a and R b As defined in claim 1; preferably, Y represents -OC(O); It is understood that the compound contains at least two groups -C(O)-C(R a )(R b )-C(O)-R4.

10. The treatment method according to claim 1, wherein the compound of formula (I) is selected from the compounds of formula (Ib) below, and optical or geometric isomers and / or solvates thereof, such as hydrates: m (AK2 -Y)-Z-[(O) t -(AK1) q -(OC(O)-C(R) a )(R b )-C(O)-R4) u ] n (Ib) In the formula (Ib): - n + m is equal to 4, m is non-zero; m and n are as defined in claim 1; - Z represents an unsubstituted and uninterrupted, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, preferably saturated and acyclic C2-C 24 Trivalent hydrocarbon-based groups, especially C3-C 10 trivalent hydrocarbon-based group, preferably a C3 trivalent hydrocarbon-based group; - AK2 independently represents a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, preferably saturated C 12 -C 24 Monovalent hydrocarbon-based chains, preferably C 16 -C 20 Monovalent hydrocarbon-based chains, preferably C 18 A monovalent hydrocarbon-based chain optionally substituted with one or more residues selected from -OR and -X-AK3-(OC(O)-C(R a )(R b )-C(O)-R4) v The same or different groups are substituted, preferably by one or more groups -X-AK3-(OC(O)-C(R a )(R b )-C(O)-R4) v substituted; and / or the chain is optionally interrupted by one or more heteroatoms or groups selected from -O-, -S-, -C(O)-, (hetero)cycle and combinations thereof, in particular -OC(O)-, -C(O)-O- or -(hetero)cycle-O-(hetero)cycle-, and preferably is not interrupted; - AK3 represents a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C1-C 12 a divalent hydrocarbon-based chain, preferably a C1-C6 divalent hydrocarbon-based chain, more preferably a saturated C1-C6 divalent hydrocarbon-based chain, even more preferably a C2-C4 divalent hydrocarbon-based chain, preferably a C3 divalent hydrocarbon-based chain; - v as defined in claim 1; preferably, v is equal to 2; - X is as defined in claim 1; preferably, X represents a sulfur atom; - Y, AK1, u, t, q, R, R4, R a and R b As defined in claim 1; It is understood that the compound contains at least two groups -C(O)-C(R a )(R b )-C(O)-R4.

11. The treatment method according to claim 1, wherein the compound of formula (I) is selected from the following compounds of formula (Ic), and optical or geometric isomers and / or solvates thereof, such as hydrates: m (AK2-Y)-ZH-[(O)t-(AK1) q -(O-C(O)-C(R a )(R b )-C(O)-R4) u ] n (Ic) In the formula (Ic): - Z represents a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, preferably saturated and acyclic polyvalent C 14 -C 24 Hydrocarbon-based groups, especially C 16 -C 20 Hydrocarbon-based groups, such as C 17 Hydrocarbon-based groups, Z is optionally further replaced by one or more groups -[(O) t -(AK1) q - (OC(O)-C(R a )(R b )-C(O)-R4) u ] n substituted, preferably unsubstituted; - AK2 represents a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, preferably saturated C 14 -C 30 Monovalent hydrocarbon-based chains, preferably C 20 -C 29 A monovalent hydrocarbon-based chain, which is separated by one or more selected from -OR and -X-AK3-(OC(O)-C(R a )(R b )-C(O)-R4) v The chain is optionally substituted by one or more identical or different groups, preferably by one or more groups -OR; and / or the chain is optionally interrupted by one or more heteroatoms or groups selected from -O-, -S-, -C(O)-, (hetero)cycle and combinations thereof, in particular -OC(O)-, -C(O)-O-, -(hetero)cycle-O-(hetero)cycle-, and preferably by -OC(O)- or -C(O)-O-; - X is as defined in claim 1 and preferably X represents a sulfur atom; - Y, AK1, AK3, n, m, v, t, q, u, R, R4, R a and R b As defined in claim 1; It is understood that the compound contains at least two groups -C(O)-C(R a )(R b )-C(O)-R4.

12. The method according to claim 1, wherein the compound of formula (I) is selected from the following compounds of formula (Id), and optical or geometric isomers and / or solvates thereof, such as hydrates: m (AK2-Y)-Z-[(O)t-(AK1) q -(O-C(O)-C(R a )(R b )-C(O)-R4) u ] n (Id) In the formula (Id): - n + m is equal to 4, and preferably m is equal to 3; - Z represents a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, preferably saturated or acyclic C2-C 24 Tetravalent hydrocarbon-based groups, especially C3-C 10 A tetravalent hydrocarbon-based group, in particular a C4 or C5 tetravalent hydrocarbon-based group, Z is further replaced by one or more groups -[(O) t -(AK1) q -(OC(O)-C(R a )(R b )-C(O)-R4) u ] n substituted, n is preferably equal to 1; - AK2 independently represents a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, preferably saturated C 14 -C 30 Monovalent hydrocarbon-based chains, preferably C 16 -C 24 Monovalent hydrocarbon-based chains, preferably C 17 A monovalent hydrocarbon-based chain optionally substituted with one or more residues selected from -OR and -X-AK3-(OC(O)-C(R a )(R b )-C(O)-R4) v and / or the chain is optionally interrupted by one or more heteroatoms or groups selected from -O-, -S-, -C(O)-, (hetero)cycle and combinations thereof, in particular -OC(O)-, -C(O)-O- or -(hetero)cycle-O-(hetero)cycle-, and preferably is not interrupted; X is as defined in claim 1 and preferably X represents a sulfur atom; Y, AK1, AK3, u, v, R, R4, R a and R b As defined in claim 1, It is understood that these compounds contain at least two groups -C(O)-C(R a )(R b )-C(O)-R4.

13. The treatment method according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the compound of formula (I) is selected from the compounds of the following formula (Ie), and their optical or geometric isomers and / or solvates thereof, such as hydrates: m (AK2-Y)-Z-[(O) t -(AK1) q -(OC(O)-C(R) a )(R b )-C(O)-R4) u ] n (Yes) In the formula (Ie): - n + m is equal to 2, m is non-zero, and m is preferably equal to 2; n is as defined in claim 1; preferably, n is zero; - Z represents a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, conjugated or non-conjugated, preferably non-conjugated, acyclic or cyclic, aromatic or non-conjugated, preferably non-aromatic C2-C 24 Divalent hydrocarbon-based groups, especially C3-C 12 A divalent hydrocarbon-based group, said group Z being further substituted by one or more selected from -O-, -N(R a )-, -S-, -C(O)-, (hetero)cyclic and combinations thereof; preferably, Z represents a divalent group -(CH2) g -(Heterocyclic)-O-(CH2) h -(Heterocycle)-(CH2) j -, wherein h represents 0, 1 or 2, preferably 0 or 1, g and j independently represent an integer between 1 and 3, preferably 1; (heterocycle) represents a divalent heterocyclic group (i.e., a heterocycle), preferably a heterocycloalkyl group, more particularly a divalent 5-membered or 6-membered heterocycloalkyl group, especially a divalent tetrahydrofuran group or a divalent tetrahydropyran group, the heterocycle being optionally substituted by one or more selected from -OR, wherein R is as defined in claim 1, and especially -OH or -OC(O)-C(R a )(R b )-C(O)-R4 group substitution; - AK2 represents a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, preferably saturated C 14 -C 30 Monovalent hydrocarbon-based chains, preferably C 14 -C 24 Monovalent hydrocarbon-based chains, preferably C 17 A monovalent hydrocarbon-based chain optionally substituted with one or more residues selected from -OR and -X-AK3-(OC(O)-C(R a )(R b )-C(O)-R4) v and / or the chain is optionally interrupted by one or more heteroatoms or groups selected from -O-, -S-, -C(O)-, (hetero)cycle and combinations thereof, in particular -OC(O)-, -C(O)-O- or -(hetero)cycle-O-(hetero)cycle-, preferably optionally interrupted by -OC(O)- or -C(O)-O-, and more preferably not interrupted by; - X is as defined in claim 1; preferably, X represents a sulfur atom; - Y, AK1, AK3, v, t, q, u, R, R4, R a and R b As defined in claim 1; It is understood that the compound contains at least two groups -C(O)-C(R a )(R b )-C(O)-R4.

14. The treatment process according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the compound of formula (I) is selected from the following compounds, and their optical or geometric isomers and / or their solvates, such as hydrates: (1) (2) (3) (4) (5) (6) (7) (8) (9) (10) (11) (12) (13) (14) (15) Where W is a hydrogen atom or -C(O)-C(R a )(R b )-C(O)-R4, and the compound contains at least two groups -C(O)-C(R a )(R b )-C(O)-R4.

15. The treatment process according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the crosslinking agent ii) is selected from (poly)amines, (poly)thiols, (poly)carbonyls, (poly)acrylates and metal alkoxide compounds and mixtures thereof, and is preferably selected from (poly)amine compounds; preferably, the crosslinking agent ii) is selected from: A) a (poly)amine compound selected from the group consisting of: ia) chitosans such as poly (D-glucosamine), ib) polyetherdiamines, in particular polyethylene glycol α,ω-diamines having chain-end amine functions, ic) polyethertriamines, in particular polyetheramine (or Jeffamine), id) aminoalkoxysilanes, especially APTES, ie) 4,7,10-trioxa-1,13-tridecanediamine, and if) polydialkylsiloxanes containing primary amine groups at the chain ends or in side chains, in particular polydimethylsiloxanes containing primary amine groups, more particularly bis(3-aminopropyl)-terminated poly(dimethoxysiloxane) (PDMS-diNH2) and amine-terminated polydimethylsiloxanes containing amine groups in side chains, more particularly bis-cetearylamine-terminated polydimethylsiloxane; B) a (poly)thiol compound selected from the group consisting of: iia) polydialkylsiloxanes having thiol functional groups, and iib) alkoxysilanes having a thiol function, and in particular from iia) polydialkylsiloxanes having thiol functional groups, preferably from polydimethylsiloxanes containing thiol groups in the side chains, in particular mercaptopropyl groups, and more particularly from compounds of formula (XIII): R a -Si(R b )(R d )-O-[Si(R a )(R b )-O] m -[Si(R b )(ALK1-SH)-O] n -Si(R b )(R d )-R a (XIII) In the formula (XIII): - R a and R b may be identical or different, preferably identical, and represent (C1-C4)alkyl, in particular methyl, (C1-C4)alkoxy, in particular methoxy, aryl, in particular phenyl, aryloxy, in particular phenoxy, aryl(C1-C4)alkyl, in particular benzyl, or aryl(C1-C4)alkoxy, in particular benzyloxy, and are preferably (C1-C4)alkyl, more preferably methyl, - R d represents (C1-C4)alkyl, in particular methyl, (C1-C4)alkoxy, in particular methoxy, aryl, in particular phenyl, aryloxy, in particular phenoxy, aryl(C1-C4)alkyl, in particular benzyl, aryl(C1-C4)alkoxy, in particular benzyloxy, or (C1-C6)alkyl substituted by (C1-C4)alkylamino, amino or thiol groups, and is preferably (C1-C4)alkyl, more preferably methyl, And preferably R a 、R b and R d are identical and represent (C1-C6)alkyl, more preferably methyl, - ALK1 represents a linear or branched, optionally cyclic, saturated or unsaturated, divalent hydrocarbon-based chain comprising 1 to 100 carbon atoms, which is optionally interrupted by one or more heteroatoms such as oxygen, sulfur or nitrogen, in particular oxygen, a (thio)carbonyl group C(X), wherein X represents O or S, or a combination thereof, in particular -O-, -OC(O)- or -C(O)-O-; preferably, ALK1 represents (C1-C6)alkylene and more preferably (C1-C4)alkylene, even more preferably propylene, - n and m, which may be identical or different, represent an integer greater than 2 and, in particular, are such that the weight-average molecular weight of the polyorganosiloxane is between 1000 and 55 000 g.mol -1 between; and C) (Poly)acrylate compounds of formula (XIV): L[-Y-C(O)-C(R e )=CH2] q (XIV) In the formula (XIV): - q represents an integer greater than or equal to 2, in particular n is between 2 and 10, inclusive, and preferably between 2 and 5, - L represents a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, or (hetero)cyclic, saturated or unsaturated polyvalent (at least divalent) group, which in particular comprises between 1 and 500 carbon and / or silicon atoms, more in particular between 2 and 40 carbon and / or silicon atoms, even more in particular between 3 and 30 carbon and / or silicon atoms, preferably between 6 and 20 carbon atoms; L is optionally replaced by one or more residues selected from O, S, N, Si, C(X) and combinations thereof, in particular -O-, -OC(X)-, -N(R)-C(X)-, -Si(R)- c )(R d )-O-, wherein R represents a hydrogen atom or a (C1-C6) alkyl group, in particular a methyl group; and / or L is optionally substituted by one or more groups selected from the group consisting of: -N(R a )R b and -(X') a -C(X)-(X'') b -R a Wherein X, X' and X'' may be the same or different and represent an oxygen or sulfur atom, or a group N(R b ); a and b are 0 or 1, preferably the sum of a + b is 1; R a and R b may be the same or different and represent a hydrogen atom, a (C1-C6)alkyl group or an aryl (C1-C4)alkyl group, in particular a benzyl group, preferably R a and R b represents a hydrogen atom, and R c and R d may be the same or different and represent (C1-C6)alkyl, aryl(C1-C4)alkyl or (C1-C6)alkoxy, - R e represents a hydrogen atom or a (C1-C4)alkyl group, in particular a methyl group; preferably, R e represents a hydrogen atom, and - Y represents an oxygen atom or an amino group -N(H)-, preferably an oxygen atom, Preferably, Y is an oxygen atom and R e is a hydrogen atom, preferably L represents a divalent or trivalent, preferably trivalent, hydrocarbon-based chain containing 1 to 8 carbon atoms, q is 2 or 3, preferably 3, and More preferably, the compound of formula (XIV) is trimethylolpropane triacrylate; D) a metal alkoxide selected from the group consisting of zirconium ethoxide (Zr(OC2H5)4), zirconium propoxide (Zr(OCH2CH2CH3)4), zirconium isopropoxide (Zr(OCH(CH3)2)4), zirconium butoxide Zr(OCH2CH2CH2CH3)4, zirconium tert-butoxide (Zr(OC(CH3)3)4), titanium ethoxide (Ti(OC2H5)4), titanium propoxide (Ti(OCH2CH2CH3)4), titanium isopropoxide (Ti(OCH(CH3)2)4), titanium butoxide (Ti(OCH2CH2CH2CH3)4), titanium tert-butoxide (Ti(OC(CH3)3)4), titanium 2-ethylhexoxide (Ti(OCH2CH(C2H5)(CH2)3CH3)4) and mixtures thereof, more preferably selected from the group consisting of zirconium propoxide, titanium propoxide, titanium butoxide and mixtures thereof, E) a (poly)carbonyl compound selected from the group consisting of a saturated or unsaturated, aromatic C5-C7 carbon ring, preferably an aromatic C5-C7 carbon ring, such as phenyl, or a non-aromatic and saturated C5-C7 carbon ring, such as cyclohexyl, more preferably an unsaturated and aromatic C5-C7 carbon ring, such as terephthalaldehyde.

16. Treatment method according to any of the preceding claims, wherein at least one cosmetic active agent iii) is also applied to the keratin materials, in particular the skin and / or lips and / or eyelashes and / or eyebrows, said cosmetic active agent iii) being preferably chosen from: a) dyes, in particular chosen from pigments, direct dyes and mixtures thereof, b) active agents for caring for keratin materials, preferably the skin, c) UV-screening agents, and d) mixtures thereof; Preferably, the cosmetic active agent iii) is chosen from a) dyes, preferably from pigments, direct dyes and mixtures thereof; more preferably, the pigments are chosen from carbon black, iron oxides, in particular yellow, red and black iron oxides and micas coated with iron oxides, triarylmethane pigments, in particular blue and violet triarylmethane pigments, in particular Blue 1 Lake, azo pigments, in particular red azo pigments, more in particular D&C red 7, alkali metal salts of Lissol Red, in particular the calcium salt of Lissol Red B, and even more preferably from red iron oxides, yellow iron oxides and azo pigments, in particular red azo pigments, more in particular D&C Red 7.

17. The treatment process according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein iv) at least one fatty substance is also used, in particular at least one oil, preferably at least one volatile oil, more preferably at least one oil selected from: - hydrocarbon-based oils containing 8-16 carbon atoms, especially branched C8-C 16 Alkanes, in particular isoalkanes, more particularly isoalkanes (also called isoparaffins), preferably C 13 -C 16 Isoparaffins, isododecane, isodecane, isohexadecane, for example the oils sold under the trade names Isopar or Permethyl, preferably isododecane (also known as 2,2,4,4,6-pentamethylheptane); straight-chain alkanes, in particular C 11 -C 16 Alkanes, especially hexane, decane, undecane, tridecane; isoparaffins, especially n-dodecane (C 12 ) and n-tetradecane (C 14 ), undecane-tridecane mixture, n-undecane (C 11 ) and n-tridecane (C 13 ), and mixtures thereof, and n-undecane (C 11 ) and n-tridecane (C 13 ) mixture; and volatile C5-C 12 cyclic, nonaromatic alkanes; - short-chain esters containing 3 to 8 carbon atoms in total, in particular ethyl acetate, methyl acetate, propyl acetate or n-butyl acetate; - hydrocarbon-based oils of the structure R'1-OC(O)-O-R'2, wherein R'1 and R'2 independently represent a linear, branched or cyclic C4-C8 alkyl group, preferably a C4-C8 alkyl group, advantageously more preferably chosen from dibutyl carbonate or dipentyl carbonate; - ether oils of the formula R1-O-R2, wherein R1 and R2 independently represent linear, branched or cyclic C4-C8 alkyl groups, preferably C4-C8 alkyl groups; - silicone oils, in particular silicone oils containing 2 to 7 silicon atoms and optionally including alkyl or alkoxy groups containing 1 to 10 carbon atoms, in particular polydimethylsiloxane, cyclopentasiloxane, dodecamethylpentasiloxane, cyclohexamethylsiloxane, octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane, heptamethylhexyltrisiloxane, heptamethyloctyltrisiloxane, hexamethyldisiloxane, octamethyltrisiloxane, decamethyltetrasiloxane, dodecamethylpentasiloxane and mixtures thereof of viscosities of 5 and 6 cSt; More preferably, the volatile oil iv) is selected from C8-C 16 The alkane, in particular a branched alkane, is preferably isododecane.

18. Method for treating, in particular cosmetically treating, keratin materials, in particular the skin and / or lips and / or eyelashes and / or eyebrows, according to any one of the preceding claims, for caring for and / or making up keratin materials, in particular the skin, lips, eyelashes and / or eyebrows, said method comprising applying to said keratin materials, in particular the skin and / or lips and / or eyelashes and / or eyebrows at least: - a composition designated "C1" comprising i) at least one compound of formula (I), or (Ia), (Ib), (Ic), (Id) and / or (Ie) according to any one of claims 1 to 14, and optionally iii) at least one cosmetic active agent, in particular a cosmetic active agent according to claim 16; - a composition designated "C2" comprising i) at least one compound of formula (I), or (Ia), (Ib), (Ic), (Id) and / or (Ie) according to any one of claims 1 to 14, ii) at least one crosslinker, in particular according to claim 15, and optionally iii) at least one cosmetic active agent, in particular according to claim 16; - a composition designated "C3" comprising i) at least one compound of formula (I), or (Ia), (Ib), (Ic), (Id) and / or (Ie) according to any one of claims 1 to 14, ii) at least one crosslinker, in particular according to claim 15, iii) at least one cosmetic active agent, in particular according to claim 16; - a composition called "C4" comprising ii) at least one crosslinker, in particular according to claim 15, and optionally iii) at least one cosmetic active agent, in particular according to claim 16; and / or - a composition called "C5" comprising iii) at least one cosmetic active agent, in particular according to claim 16; It should be understood that: • said process using together or separately i) at least one compound of formula (I), or (Ia), (Ib), (Ic), (Id) and / or (Ie) according to any one of claims 1 to 14, and ii) at least one crosslinking agent, in particular a crosslinking agent according to claim 15; and • The compositions "C1", "C2", "C3", "C4" and "C5" may be anhydrous, aqueous, such as hydro-alcoholic and / or contain one or more fatty substances iv), in particular fatty substances iv) according to claim 17.

19. Treatment method according to the preceding claim, characterized in that It comprises a single step of applying to said keratin material either composition "C2" or composition "C3"; or two successive steps of applying to said keratin material two different compositions, preferably composition "C1" and then composition "C4".

20. Cosmetic treatment method for caring for and / or making up keratin materials, in particular the skin, lips, eyelashes and / or eyebrows, comprising the sequential application of at least: - i) at least one compound of formula (I), or (Ia), (Ib), (Ic), (Id) and / or (Ie) according to any one of claims 1 to 14, or a composition designated "C1" according to claim 18 or containing them, and optionally comprising iii) at least one cosmetic active agent, in particular a cosmetic active agent according to claim 16; and then - a composition called "C4" comprising ii) at least one crosslinker, in particular according to claim 15, and optionally iii) at least one cosmetic active agent, in particular according to claim 16; At least one of the compositions "C1" and / or "C4" contains at least one dye, in particular a dye according to claim 16, preferably at least one pigment, and more preferably the composition "C1" comprises at least one pigment.

21. Compounds of formula (I) according to any one of claims 1 to 13, in which m represents an integer equal to 1, 2, 3 or 4, and salts, isomers and / or solvates thereof, such as hydrates, which are different from compounds (1) to (7) according to claim 14.

22. A composition, preferably a cosmetic composition, containing at least one compound chosen from the following: compounds of formula (I), (Ia), (Ib), (Ic), (Id) and / or (Ie) according to any one of claims 1 to 13, in which m represents an integer equal to 1, 2, 3 or 4, and salts, isomers and / or solvates thereof, such as hydrates, which are different from compounds (1) to (7) according to claim 14.

23. Cosmetic use of a composition designated "C3" for treating, caring for and / or making up keratin materials, in particular the skin and / or lips and / or eyelashes and / or eyebrows, comprising i) at least one compound of formula (I), or (Ia), (Ib), (Ic), (Id) and / or (Ie) according to any one of claims 1 to 14, ii) at least one crosslinker, in particular according to claim 15, and iii) at least one cosmetic active agent, in particular according to claim 16.

24. A multi-compartment kit or device, especially a cosmetic kit or device, comprising: - at least one compartment containing i) a compound of formula (I), or (Ia), (Ib), (Ic), (Id) and / or (Ie) according to any one of claims 1 to 14, and optionally iii) at least one cosmetic active agent, in particular according to claim 16; it particularly comprises composition "C1" according to claim 18; - at least one compartment, different from the compartment containing i) and containing ii) at least one crosslinker, in particular according to claim 15, and optionally iii) at least one cosmetic active agent, in particular according to claim 16; it comprises in particular the composition "C4" according to claim 18; and - Optionally, at least one compartment, different from the compartment containing i) and ii), and containing iii) at least one cosmetic active agent, in particular according to claim 16, which may be identical to or different from the cosmetic active agent optionally contained in the compartment containing i) and ii).

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