Anti-pilling wool tencel fabric and preparation method thereof

Abstract

The application belongs to the technical field of textile fabrics, and particularly relates to an anti-pilling wool tencel fabric and a preparation method thereof; wherein the anti-pilling wool tencel fabric comprises core layer fiber raw material, sheath layer fiber raw material, composite biological enzyme finishing liquid and composite crosslinking finishing liquid; wherein the core layer fiber raw material comprises 40-60 parts of wool fiber, 30-50 parts of tencel fiber and 5-15 parts of profiled cross-section polyester fiber; the sheath layer fiber raw material comprises 20-40 parts of wool fiber and 50-80 parts of tencel fiber; the application isolates the wool fiber prone to pilling through a core-sheath structure, and reduces the migration and sliding of the fiber through the supporting action of the internal skeleton; in the finishing process, the composite biological enzyme and the composite crosslinking are used in a synergistic action, the washing step after enzyme treatment is omitted, the ideal surface state of the fiber is retained to strengthen the crosslinking effect, the microwave curing technology is matched to ensure uniform and dense combination, and long-acting anti-pilling protection is formed.

Description

TECHNICAL FIELD

[0001] The application belongs to the technical field of textile fabrics, and particularly relates to an anti-pilling wool tencel fabric and a preparation method thereof. BACKGROUND

[0002] The wool tencel blended fabric has the natural advantages of warmth retention, elasticity of wool and skin-friendly smoothness, moisture absorption and air permeability of tencel, and is increasingly widely used in high-end clothing and home textiles, and becomes one of the mainstream fabrics that meet the demand of modern consumers for high-quality textile products. However, the blended fabric is long-term faced with the outstanding technical problem of pilling in the actual wearing and using process, which seriously restricts its market value and service life. Wool fibers and tencel fibers together make the surface of the fabric prone to form pills. These pills are difficult to fall off and become more and more obvious with the increase of wearing times and washing times, which not only destroys the appearance neatness of the fabric, but also reduces the wearing comfort and durability of the fabric.

[0003] To solve the above-mentioned pilling problem, the prior art mostly adopts the simple blending of wool, tencel and other fibers, trying to improve the cohesion by physical interweaving between fibers. However, this irregular mixing mode easily causes mutual interference of different fiber functions, which not only cannot form a targeted anti-pilling protective structure, but also may damage the natural excellent properties of wool and tencel. In addition, the hot air curing method commonly used in the existing process has the problem of uneven heating, which easily causes local overcrosslinking or insufficient crosslinking of the finishing agent, further aggravating the imbalance of the performance of the fabric. Therefore, it has become an urgent task in the textile field to develop a wool tencel fabric that can solve the pilling problem from the root and has multiple excellent properties. SUMMARY

[0004] In view of the defects of the prior art, the application provides an anti-pilling wool tencel fabric and a preparation method thereof. The application adopts core-sheath partition design at the yarn level to realize the precise layout of different functional fibers, reduce fiber slippage and winding from the source, and adopts the synergistic effect of composite biological enzyme treatment and composite crosslinking finishing in the finishing process, omits the washing step after enzyme treatment, retains the ideal surface state of the fibers to strengthen the crosslinking effect, and cooperates with the microwave curing technology to ensure uniform and dense combination of the finishing agent, and finally forms a full-range and long-acting anti-pilling protection. The technical problems that the existing wool tencel blended fabric is prone to pilling, the long-acting anti-pilling effect is poor, and the anti-pilling finishing and the comfort, wear resistance and air permeability of the fabric are difficult to be considered are solved.

[0005] In order to achieve the above technical purposes, the technical scheme adopted by the application is as follows:

[0006] The application provides an anti-pilling wool lyocell fabric, which comprises a core layer fiber raw material, a sheath layer fiber raw material, a composite biological enzyme finishing liquid and a composite cross-linking finishing liquid; wherein the core layer fiber raw material comprises 40-60 parts of wool fibers, 30-50 parts of lyocell fibers and 5-15 parts of profiled cross-section polyester fibers; the sheath layer fiber raw material comprises 20-40 parts of wool fibers and 50-80 parts of lyocell fibers.

[0007] Preferably, the profiled cross-section polyester fibers are at least one of triangular cross-section polyester fibers, cross-shaped cross-section polyester fibers and trilobal cross-section polyester fibers.

[0008] Further, the composite biological enzyme finishing liquid is prepared by adding 3.0% of the composite biological enzyme and 1.5% of the modified nanocellulose in a mass percentage in an acetic acid-sodium acetate buffer solution with a pH value of 5.5, uniformly mixing by mechanical stirring and forming the composite biological enzyme finishing liquid.

[0009] Further, the composite biological enzyme is composed of cellulase and protease, and the mass ratio of the two is 3:1.

[0010] Further, the composite cross-linking finishing liquid is prepared by mixing 8% of the water-based polyurethane and 1.0% of the graphene oxide water dispersion liquid in a mass percentage, mechanically stirring for 30 min, slowly adding 3.0% of the modified nanocellulose in a mass percentage under continuous stirring and continuously stirring for 60-90 min to obtain the composite cross-linking finishing liquid.

[0011] Further, the preparation process of the modified nanocellulose is as follows:

[0012] i. Nanocellulose solids are weighed and dispersed in anhydrous DMF (N,N-dimethylformamide), and the dosage ratio of the nanocellulose solids to the anhydrous DMF is 1 g:50 mL. The nanocellulose solids are dispersed in the anhydrous DMF in a 60℃ water bath at a mechanical stirring speed of 500 rpm for 2 h to form a uniform nanocellulose suspension. 4-dimethylaminopyridine is added to the suspension, and the reaction system is formed by continuously stirring at 60℃ for 30 min to ensure sufficient mixing.

[0013] ii. A constant-pressure dropping funnel is used to slowly drop acetic anhydride into the reaction system, and the dropping rate is controlled. The dropping is completed within 1 h. Subsequently, the reaction temperature is raised to 80℃, and the reaction is continuously refluxed under nitrogen protection for 4 h. After the reaction is completed, the reaction system is cooled to room temperature, centrifuged and washed until the supernatant is neutral and free of acetic acid smell to ensure that the unreacted acetic anhydride, catalyst and byproduct acetic acid are completely removed. The washed precipitate is redispersed in anhydrous ethanol, and then freeze-dried for 48 h to obtain the modified nanocellulose.

[0014] Further, the ratio of the nanocellulose, 4-dimethylaminopyridine and acetic anhydride is 5g:1g:1.5mL.

[0015] The application also provides a preparation method of the anti-pilling wool tencel fabric, which specifically comprises the following steps:

[0016] S1, core layer fiber and sheath layer fiber preparation: the core layer fiber raw material is mixed on an opener to form a core layer fiber, and the sheath layer fiber raw material is mixed, wherein the wool fiber is preliminarily pretreated with a mild protease to preliminarily soften the scales and form a sheath layer fiber;

[0017] S2, core layer fiber and sheath layer fiber are respectively prepared into slivers: the mixed core layer fiber and sheath layer fiber are respectively subjected to the processes of scutcher, carding and drawing to prepare core layer slivers and sheath layer slivers;

[0018] S3, spinning of the core-sheath structure yarn: the core layer slivers are used as the core of the yarn and the sheath layer slivers are used as the sheath of the yarn to perform spinning on a FA506 type spinning machine by using a sirofil spinning technology, and the process parameters are adjusted to control the final yarn count to be 40-60 English.

[0019] S4, weaving and pretreatment: the prepared core-sheath structure yarn is used as the warp and weft to weave into the required plain, twill or satin fabric on an air-jet loom, and the grey fabric is subjected to desizing and scouring and other conventional treatments in hot water at 60 ℃ to remove the oil and size added in the spinning and weaving processes, and then washed to neutral to obtain the pretreated fabric;

[0020] S5, biological enzyme polishing treatment: the pretreated fabric is immersed in a composite biological enzyme finishing liquid with a bath ratio of 1:15-25, and is mechanically treated at 50 ℃ for 45 min, and after the enzyme treatment, the fabric is directly taken out and evenly pressed to control the liquid retention rate to be 100%, to form the pressed fabric, which is immediately fed into the next finishing process without water washing in between;

[0021] S6, microwave curing to obtain the anti-pilling wool tencel fabric: the pressed fabric is immersed in a composite crosslinking finishing liquid, and then is pressed by a mangle at a pressure of 0.3 MPa to control the liquid retention rate to be 70-80%, and the immersed and pressed fabric is placed in a microwave drying setting machine and treated at 105 ℃ for 3 min to complete the curing, and the cured fabric is subjected to tenter setting at 130 ℃, and then is treated by a prescaking machine, and finally is inspected, packaged to obtain the anti-pilling wool tencel fabric.

[0022] Further, the protease pretreatment process is as follows: the wool fibers are immersed in a pretreatment liquid composed of 1.0%-2.0% neutral protease by mass percentage, 1.5%-3.0% fatty alcohol polyoxyethylene ether by mass percentage, and a buffer solution with a pH of 6.5-7.5, the bath ratio is controlled to be 1:15-25, slow stirring treatment is performed at 45-50°C for 30-45 min, then the temperature is raised to 80-85°C and kept for 10 min to inactivate the enzyme, and finally the warm water is washed, dried.

[0023] Compared with the prior art, the present application has the following beneficial effects:

[0024] The present application adopts a core-sheath partitioned yarn structure, realizes precise matching of fiber functions. The core layer forms a stable support framework through specific fiber combination, reduces the relative sliding and winding of fibers in the yarn by virtue of the low friction characteristics of the profiled cross-section fiber, and inhibits the internal causes of the formation of the hairball from the root; the sheath layer mainly uses wool and Tencel with an optimized proportion as the main body, which not only retains the warmth and elasticity of wool and the smooth texture of Tencel, but also makes the scale of the pretreated wool more suitable for subsequent finishing process, so that a smooth interface that is not easy to generate fluff is formed on the surface of the fabric. The bio-enzyme polishing treatment realizes the polishing of the Tencel surface and the mild etching of the wool scale through the precise matching of cellulase and protease, and introduces surface acetylated modified nanocellulose, which softens the fiber surface and enhances the cohesion between fibers, avoiding the fiber damage that may be caused by single enzyme treatment. On the other hand, the washing step after enzyme treatment is omitted, which not only reduces the production links and water consumption, but also retains the ideal surface state of the fibers after enzyme treatment, so that the residual active ingredients become a bridge for subsequent crosslinking, greatly improving the crosslinking degree. The water-based polyurethane in the composite crosslinking finishing liquid of the present application serves as the main film-forming body to firmly anchor the fiber ends, the graphene oxide enhances the wear resistance and stability of the crosslinked film due to its special structure, and the acetylated modified nanocellulose effectively neutralizes the stiffness caused by the resin, and the microporous film formed by the synergistic effect of the three not only locks the smooth fiber surface after enzyme treatment, but also has good elasticity and air permeability. The microwave curing technology used in the present application uses the volume heating characteristics of microwave to synchronize the crosslinking of the finishing liquid from the inside to the surface of the fiber, ensuring that the crosslinked film formed is uniform and dense; at the same time, the high efficiency of microwave curing can shorten the curing time and reduce energy consumption, and the mild heating method can maximize the retention of the natural softness of wool and Tencel, avoiding damage to the fibers caused by high temperature. The anti-pilling wool Tencel fabric prepared finally not only has long-term and stable anti-pilling ability, but also retains the warmth of wool and the skin-friendliness of Tencel, and the fabric strength and dimensional stability are not affected by the anti-pilling finishing. BRIEF DESCRIPTION OF DRAWINGS

[0025] Figure 1 The preparation method flow chart of the anti-pilling wool Tencel fabric of the present application;

[0026] Figure 2 Fabric appearance of anti-pilling wool tencel fabric prepared by the present application. DETAILED DESCRIPTION

[0027] The technical solutions in the embodiments of the present application will be clearly and completely described below with reference to the drawings in the embodiments of the present application. Obviously, the described embodiments are only part of the embodiments of the present application, rather than all the embodiments of the present application. Based on the embodiments in the present application, all other embodiments obtained by those skilled in the art without creative labor fall within the scope of protection of the present application.

[0028] According to the preparation method flow chart of the anti-pilling wool tencel fabric of the present application, as shown in Figure 1 the following examples are carried out:

[0029] Embodiment 1: The present embodiment provides an anti-pilling wool tencel fabric, which comprises core layer fiber raw material, sheath layer fiber raw material, composite biological enzyme finishing liquid and composite crosslinking finishing liquid; wherein the core layer fiber raw material comprises 40 parts of wool fiber, 30 parts of tencel fiber and 5 parts of triangular cross-section polyester fiber; the sheath layer fiber raw material comprises 20 parts of wool fiber and 50 parts of tencel fiber.

[0030] The preparation of the composite biological enzyme finishing liquid: in an acetic acid-sodium acetate buffer solution with a pH value of 5.5, 3.0% (mass percentage) of composite biological enzyme and 1.5% (mass percentage) of modified nanocellulose are added, and they are uniformly mixed by mechanical stirring to form the composite biological enzyme finishing liquid.

[0031] The composite biological enzyme is composed of cellulase and protease, and the mass ratio of the two is 3:1.

[0032] The preparation of the composite crosslinking finishing liquid: 8% (mass percentage) of water-based polyurethane and 1.0% (mass percentage) of graphene oxide aqueous dispersion liquid are mixed, and mechanical stirring is carried out at a speed of 300 rpm for 30 min; under continuous stirring, 3.0% (mass percentage) of modified nanocellulose is slowly added, and stirring is continued for 60 min to obtain the composite crosslinking finishing liquid.

[0033] The preparation process of the modified nanocellulose is as follows:

[0034] i. The nanocellulose solid is weighed and dispersed in anhydrous DMF, the ratio of nanocellulose solid to anhydrous DMF is 1 g:50 mL, and the mixture is dispersed in a 60°C water bath for 2 hours at a mechanical stirring speed of 500 rpm to form a uniform nanocellulose suspension. 4-dimethylaminopyridine is added to the suspension, and the ratio of nanocellulose, 4-dimethylaminopyridine, and acetic anhydride is 5 g:1 g:1.5 mL. The mixture is stirred at 60°C for 30 minutes to ensure thorough mixing, and a reaction system is formed;

[0035] ii. The reaction system is slowly added with acetic anhydride using a constant pressure dropping funnel, and the dropping rate is controlled to complete the addition within 1 hour. Subsequently, the reaction temperature is raised to 80°C, and the reaction is continued under nitrogen protection for 4 hours. After the reaction is completed, the reaction product is washed repeatedly by centrifugation at a speed of 10,000 rpm for 15 minutes until the supernatant is neutral and free of acetic acid, to ensure the complete removal of unreacted acetic anhydride, catalyst, and byproduct acetic acid. The washed precipitate is redispersed in anhydrous ethanol, and the ratio of precipitate to anhydrous ethanol is 1 g:5 mL. The modified nanocellulose is obtained by freeze-drying technology, pre-freezing at -50°C, and then drying at -50°C under a vacuum of 10 Pa for 48 hours.

[0036] The embodiment also provides a preparation method of the anti-pilling wool tencel fabric, specifically including the following steps:

[0037] S1, core layer fiber and sheath layer fiber preparation: core layer fiber raw materials (40 parts of wool fiber, 30 parts of tencel fiber, and 5 parts of triangular cross-section polyester fiber) are mixed on an opener to form a uniform core layer fiber. Sheath layer fiber raw materials (20 parts of wool fiber and 50 parts of tencel fiber) are mixed on an opener, wherein the wool fiber is preliminarily pretreated with a mild protease to preliminarily soften the scales and form a sheath layer fiber.

[0038] S2, core layer fiber and sheath layer fiber are respectively drafted: the mixed core layer fiber and sheath layer fiber are respectively subjected to the processes of scutcher, carding, and drawing to form core layer sliver and sheath layer sliver.

[0039] S3, spinning of core-sheath structure yarn: the core layer sliver is used as the core of the yarn, and the sheath layer sliver is used as the sheath of the yarn, and the yarn is spun on a FA506 type spinning machine using a Sirofil spinning technology. The process parameters are adjusted to control the final yarn count to be 40 English core-sheath structure yarn.

[0040] S4, weaving and pretreatment: the prepared core-sheath structure yarn is used as warp and weft to weave into the required plain, twill or satin fabric on an air jet loom, and the grey fabric is subjected to desizing, scouring and other conventional treatments in hot water at 60 ℃ to remove the oil and size added in the spinning and weaving processes, and then washed to neutral to obtain the pretreated fabric;

[0041] S5, bio-enzyme polishing treatment: the pretreated fabric is immersed in a composite bio-enzyme finishing liquor with a bath ratio of 1:15, treated at 50 ℃ with mechanical rotation at 30 rpm for 45 min, and then taken out directly and evenly pressed to control the liquor retention rate to 100% to form the pressed fabric, which is immediately sent to the next finishing process without water washing in between;

[0042] S6, microwave curing to obtain anti-pilling wool tencel fabric: the pressed fabric is immersed in a composite cross-linking finishing liquor with a bath ratio of 1:15, and then pressed by a mangle at a pressure of 0.3 MPa to control the liquor retention rate to 70%, and then placed in a microwave drying setting machine to be treated at 105 ℃ for 3 min to complete the curing, and then stretched and set at 130 ℃, and then treated by a pre-shrinking machine, and finally inspected, packaged to obtain the anti-pilling wool tencel fabric.

[0043] The process of the protease pretreatment is as follows: the wool fiber is immersed in a pretreatment liquor composed of 1.0% by mass of neutral protease, 1.5% by mass of fatty alcohol polyoxyethylene ether and a buffer solution with a pH of 6.5, a bath ratio of 1:15 is controlled, and slow stirring treatment is carried out at 45 ℃ for 30 min, then the temperature is increased to 80 ℃ and kept for 10 min to inactivate the enzyme, and finally washed with warm water, dried.

[0044] Example 2: The anti-pilling wool tencel fabric provided by the example comprises core layer fiber raw material, sheath layer fiber raw material, composite bio-enzyme finishing liquor and composite cross-linking finishing liquor; wherein the core layer fiber raw material comprises 50 parts of wool fiber, 40 parts of tencel fiber and 10 parts of cross-section polyester fiber; the sheath layer fiber raw material comprises 30 parts of wool fiber and 65 parts of tencel fiber.

[0045] The composite bio-enzyme finishing liquor is prepared as follows: 3.0% by mass of composite bio-enzyme and 1.5% by mass of modified nanocellulose are added to a buffer solution of acetic acid-sodium acetate with a pH of 5.5, and then uniformly mixed by mechanical stirring to form the composite bio-enzyme finishing liquor.

[0046] The composite bio-enzyme is composed of cellulase and protease with a mass ratio of 3:1.

[0047] The preparation of the composite cross-linking finishing liquid: mix 8% by mass of the water-based polyurethane and 1.0% by mass of the graphene oxide water dispersion, mechanically stir at a speed of 400 rpm for 30 min, slowly add 3.0% by mass of the modified nanocellulose under continuous stirring, and continuously stir for 75 min to obtain the composite cross-linking finishing liquid.

[0048] The preparation process of the modified nanocellulose is as follows:

[0049] i. Weigh the nanocellulose solid, disperse it in anhydrous DMF, and the ratio of the nanocellulose solid to anhydrous DMF is 1 g:50 mL, disperse in a 60℃ water bath at a mechanical stirring speed of 500 rpm for 2 h to form a uniform nanocellulose suspension, add 4-dimethylaminopyridine to the suspension, and the ratio of the nanocellulose, 4-dimethylaminopyridine, and acetic anhydride is 5 g:1 g:1.5 mL, continue to stir at 60℃ for 30 min to ensure thorough mixing and form a reaction system;

[0050] ii. Use a constant-pressure dropping funnel to slowly add acetic anhydride to the reaction system, control the dropping rate, and complete the dropping within 1 h, then raise the reaction temperature to 80℃, and continuously reflux for 4 h under nitrogen protection, after the reaction is completed, cool to room temperature, and repeatedly centrifuge the reaction product with a large amount of anhydrous ethanol, the centrifugal speed is 10000 rpm, and the time is 15 min, until the supernatant is neutral and has no acetic acid smell, to ensure that the unreacted acetic anhydride, catalyst, and byproduct acetic acid are completely removed, disperse the washed precipitate in anhydrous ethanol again, the ratio of the precipitate to anhydrous ethanol is 1 g:8 mL, and obtain the loose and porous modified nanocellulose by freeze-drying technology, pre-freezing at-50℃, and then drying at-50℃ under a vacuum of 10 Pa for 48 h.

[0051] The embodiment also provides a preparation method of the anti-pilling wool tencel fabric, which specifically includes the following steps:

[0052] S1, core layer fiber and sheath layer fiber preparation: mix the core layer fiber raw material (50 parts of wool fiber, 40 parts of tencel fiber, and 10 parts of cross-section polyester fiber) on an opener to form a core layer fiber, and mix the sheath layer fiber raw material (30 parts of wool fiber and 65 parts of tencel fiber) on an opener, wherein the wool fiber is preliminarily pretreated with a mild protease to preliminarily soften the scales and form a sheath layer fiber;

[0053] S2, core layer fiber and sheath layer fiber are respectively drafted: the mixed core layer fiber and sheath layer fiber are respectively subjected to the processes of scutcher, carding, and drawing to form core layer slivers and sheath layer slivers;

[0054] S3, Spinning of the core-sheath structure yarn: using the Sirofil spinning technology, the core sliver is taken as the core of the yarn and the sheath sliver is taken as the sheath of the yarn to spin the yarn on the FA506 type spinning frame, and by adjusting the process parameters, the final yarn count is controlled to be 50 English core-sheath structure yarn;

[0055] S4, Weaving and pretreatment: taking the prepared core-sheath structure yarn as the warp and weft yarns, the desired plain, twill or satin fabric is woven on an air-jet loom, and the gray fabric is subjected to desizing and scouring and other conventional treatments in hot water at 60 ℃ to remove the oil and sizing agent added during spinning and weaving, and then washed to neutral to obtain the pretreated fabric;

[0056] S5, Bio-enzyme polishing treatment: the pretreated fabric is immersed in a composite bio-enzyme finishing liquor with a bath ratio of 1:20, and is treated at 50 ℃ with mechanical rotation at 30 rpm for 45 min, after the enzyme treatment, the fabric is directly taken out and evenly pressed to control the wet pick-up rate to be 100%, forming the pressed fabric, which is immediately put into the next finishing process without water washing in between;

[0057] S6, Microwave curing to obtain anti-pilling wool tencel fabric: the pressed fabric is immersed in a composite cross-linking finishing liquor with a bath ratio of 1:20, and is then pressed by a mangle at a pressure of 0.3 MPa to control the wet pick-up rate to be 78%, the immersed and pressed fabric is placed in a microwave drying setting machine and treated at 105 ℃ for 3 min to complete the curing, and the cured fabric is stentered at 130 ℃, and then is treated by a pre-shrinking machine, and finally is inspected, packaged to obtain the anti-pilling wool tencel fabric.

[0058] The process of the protease pretreatment is as follows: the wool fiber is immersed in a pretreatment liquor composed of 1.5% by mass of neutral protease, 2.0% by mass of fatty alcohol polyoxyethylene ether and a buffer solution with a pH of 7, the bath ratio is controlled to be 1:20, and the slow stirring treatment is carried out at 50 ℃ for 45 min, then the temperature is increased to 85 ℃ and kept for 10 min to inactivate the enzyme, and finally the warm water washing and drying are carried out.

[0059] Example 3: The anti-pilling wool tencel fabric provided by the example comprises core layer fiber raw material, sheath layer fiber raw material, composite bio-enzyme finishing liquor and composite cross-linking finishing liquor; wherein the core layer fiber raw material comprises 60 parts of wool fiber, 50 parts of tencel fiber and 15 parts of trilobal cross-section polyester fiber; the sheath layer fiber raw material comprises 40 parts of wool fiber and 80 parts of tencel fiber.

[0060] The preparation of the composite bio-enzyme finishing liquid: in an acetic acid-sodium acetate buffer solution with a pH value of 5.5, 3.0% by mass of the composite bio-enzyme and 1.5% by mass of the modified nanocellulose are added and uniformly mixed by mechanical stirring to form the composite bio-enzyme finishing liquid.

[0061] The composite bio-enzyme is composed of cellulase and protease, and the mass ratio of the two is 3:1.

[0062] The preparation of the composite cross-linking finishing liquid: 8% by mass of the aqueous polyurethane and 1.0% by mass of the graphene oxide water dispersion liquid are mixed, mechanical stirring is carried out at a speed of 500 rpm for 30 min, 3.0% by mass of the modified nanocellulose is slowly added under continuous stirring, and the stirring is continued for 90 min to obtain the composite cross-linking finishing liquid.

[0063] The preparation process of the modified nanocellulose is as follows:

[0064] i. Nanocellulose solids are weighed and dispersed in anhydrous DMF, and the use amount ratio of the nanocellulose solids to anhydrous DMF is 1 g:50 mL, the nanocellulose is dispersed in an anhydrous DMF at a mechanical stirring speed of 500 rpm in a 60℃ water bath for 2 h to form a uniform nanocellulose suspension, 4-dimethylaminopyridine is added to the suspension, and the use amount ratio of the nanocellulose, 4-dimethylaminopyridine and acetic anhydride is 5 g:1 g:1.5 mL, and the stirring is continued at 60℃ for 30 min to form a reaction system;

[0065] ii. The constant pressure dropping funnel is used to slowly drop acetic anhydride into the reaction system, the dropping rate is controlled, and the dropping is completed within 1 h, then the reaction temperature is raised to 80℃, and the reaction is continuously refluxed under nitrogen protection for 4 h, after the reaction is completed, the reaction product is cooled to room temperature, and a large amount of anhydrous ethanol is used to repeatedly centrifugal wash the reaction product, the centrifugal speed is 10000 rpm, and the time is 15 min, until the supernatant is neutral and has no acetic acid smell, so as to ensure that the unreacted acetic anhydride, catalyst and by-product acetic acid are completely removed, the washed precipitate is redispersed in anhydrous ethanol, and the use amount ratio of the precipitate to anhydrous ethanol is 1 g:10 mL, the modified nanocellulose with loose and porous structure is obtained by freeze-drying technology, pre-freezing at-50℃, and then drying at-50℃ under a vacuum of 10 Pa for 48 h.

[0066] The embodiment also provides a preparation method of the anti-pilling wool tencel fabric, and specifically includes the following steps:

[0067] S1, core layer fiber and sheath layer fiber preparation: the core layer fiber raw material (60 parts of wool fiber, 50 parts of Tencel fiber and 15 parts of trilobal cross-section polyester fiber) is mixed on an opener to form a core layer fiber, and the sheath layer fiber raw material (40 parts of wool fiber and 80 parts of Tencel fiber) is mixed evenly on an opener, wherein the wool fiber is preliminarily pretreated with a mild protease to preliminarily soften the scales to form a sheath layer fiber;

[0068] S2, core layer fiber and sheath layer fiber are respectively drafted: the mixed core layer fiber and sheath layer fiber are respectively subjected to the processes of cleaning, carding and drawing to form core layer slivers and sheath layer slivers;

[0069] S3, spinning of core-sheath structure yarn: the core layer slivers are taken as the core of the yarn and the sheath layer slivers are taken as the sheath of the yarn to perform spinning on a FA506 type spinning machine by using a Sirofil spinning technology, and the process parameters are adjusted to control the final yarn count to be 60 English core-sheath structure yarn;

[0070] S4, weaving and pretreatment: the prepared core-sheath structure yarn is taken as warp yarn and weft yarn to weave into the required plain, twill or satin fabric on an air-jet loom, and the greige fabric is subjected to desizing and scouring and other conventional treatments in hot water at 60 ℃ to remove the oil and size added in the spinning and weaving processes, and then washed to neutral to obtain the pretreated fabric;

[0071] S5, biological enzyme polishing treatment: the pretreated fabric is immersed in a composite biological enzyme finishing liquid with a bath ratio of 1:15, and is treated at 50 ℃ with mechanical rotation at 30 rpm for 45 min, and after the enzyme treatment, the fabric is directly taken out and evenly pressed to control the liquid retention rate to be 100% to form the pressed fabric, which is immediately fed into the next finishing process without water washing in between;

[0072] S6, microwave curing to obtain anti-pilling wool Tencel fabric: the pressed fabric is immersed in a composite cross-linking finishing liquid with a bath ratio of 1:20, and then is pressed by a mangle at a pressure of 0.3 MPa to control the liquid retention rate to be 80%, the immersed and pressed fabric is placed in a microwave drying setting machine to be treated at 105 ℃ for 3 min to complete the curing, and the cured fabric is subjected to tenter setting at 130 ℃, and then is treated by a pre-shrinking machine, and finally is inspected, packaged to obtain the anti-pilling wool Tencel fabric.

[0073] The process of the protease pretreatment is as follows: the wool fiber is immersed in a pretreatment liquid composed of 2.0% by mass of neutral protease, 3.0% by mass of fatty alcohol polyoxyethylene ether and a buffer solution with a pH of 7.5, the bath ratio is controlled to be 1:25, and the pretreatment is performed at 50 ℃ with slow stirring for 45 min, then the temperature is increased to 85 ℃ and kept for 10 min to inactivate the enzyme, and finally the wool fiber is washed with warm water, dried and ready for use.

[0074] Comparative Example 1 is the same as Example 2 except that the core sheath structure is not used.

[0075] Comparative Example 2 is the same as Example 2 except that the MCNF is not used.

[0076] Comparative Example 3 is the same as Example 2 except that a water washing step is added in step S5.

[0077] Experimental Example:

[0078] 1. Anti-pilling performance: The anti-pilling performance was tested according to the standard GB / T4802.2008 "Determination of the pilling behavior of textile - Part 2: modified Martindale method". The anti-pilling wool Tencel fabric prepared by using the inventive examples 1-3 and comparative examples 1-3 as samples was evaluated in the pilling box after 2000 rubs, and the results are recorded in Table 1.

[0079] 2. Air permeability: The air permeability of the anti-pilling wool Tencel fabric prepared by using the inventive examples 1-3 and comparative examples 1-3 as samples was determined according to the standard GB / T5453-1997 "Determination of the air permeability of textile fabrics". The test area was 20 cm 2 , and the test pressure difference was 100 Pa. Each sample was tested 10 times at different positions, and the average value was taken.

[0080] 3. Hairiness test: Standard: FZ / T 01086-2000 "Textiles - Determination of hairiness of yarns - Projection method". The anti-pilling wool Tencel fabric prepared by using the inventive examples 1-3 and comparative examples 1-3 as samples was tested using a YG172A yarn hairiness tester. Test method: Set the yarn hairiness tester speed to 30 m / min, detect the number of hairs within 9 mm in length, set the blended yarn hairiness length to 3 mm, the segment length to 10 m, test 10 times, take the average value of the hairiness index, and the results are recorded in Table 1.

[0081] 4. Water resistance test: The water resistance was tested according to the test method of AATCC 61-2006 (No. 1A). The anti-pilling wool Tencel fabric prepared by using the inventive examples 1-3 and comparative examples 1-3 as samples was placed in a 150 mL 0.15% detergent solution with 50 standard steel balls, and rotated at 40 rpm for 45 min at 40 ℃. Then it was washed with distilled water and dried at 60 ℃ for 5 min. The whole process was defined as one washing cycle. The anti-pilling grade was analyzed, and the results are recorded in Table 1.

[0082] 5. Fabric abrasion resistance: according to GB / T 21196.2-2007 "Determination of the abrasion resistance of fabrics by the Martindale method". Test conditions: pressure 12 kPa, record the number of rubs when one yarn of the fabric breaks or a hole is formed.

[0083] Table 1: Anti-pilling wool tencel fabric performance test results

[0084]

[0085] The results of Table 1 show that the anti-pilling wool tencel fabric prepared in Examples 1-3 has excellent anti-pilling performance, combined with Comparative Examples 1-2, it is shown that the anti-pilling wool tencel fabric with core-sheath structure prepared by the present application reduces the pilling core from the structure, the support skeleton formed by the low-friction polyester in the core layer reduces the internal slip of the fiber, and the smooth fiber treated by the enzyme in the sheath layer reduces the surface friction, so that the anti-pilling performance is good; the hairiness index of Examples 1-3 is as low as 1.9, and the less hairiness, the more difficult the fiber is to form a ball due to friction, combined with Comparative Example 1-3, it is further shown that the preparation method of the present application plays a good anti-pilling effect. The abrasion resistance of Examples 1-3 is stable at about 45000 times, which is much higher than that of Comparative Examples 1-3, indicating that the skeleton support of the cross-shaped polyester fiber in the core layer improves the overall strength of the yarn; in the composite cross-linking finishing liquid, the elastic film formed by the water-based polyurethane locks the fiber, and the graphene oxide enhances the abrasion resistance of the film, while the comparative examples lack structural support and composite protection, and the fabric is prone to fiber shedding due to abrasion. The air permeability of Examples 1-3 is all above 420 mm / s, and the comparative examples are relatively low, indicating that the present application not only ensures the anti-pilling and abrasion resistance effect, but also takes into account the high air permeability of the fabric.

[0086] Figure 2 The figure shows the fabric appearance of the anti-pilling wool tencel fabric prepared by Example 2 and Comparative Examples 1-3 after 2000 rubs, as can be seen from the figure, the surface of the anti-pilling wool tencel fabric of Example 2 is smooth and flat, and there is no obvious pilling and loose hair; while Comparative Examples 1-3 all show different degrees of pilling phenomenon, indicating that the treatment and preparation process of the anti-pilling wool tencel fabric of the present application can effectively resist the pilling phenomenon caused by friction.

[0087] To sum up, the present application reasonably arranges different functional fibers by core-sheath partitioning, forms stable support by the core layer to reduce fiber internal slip, and relies on sheath fiber matching and pretreatment to create a smooth surface, laying a solid foundation for anti-pilling performance from the source. In the finishing process, the industry convention of washing after enzyme treatment is broken, and the ideal surface state and active ingredients of the fibers after enzymatic hydrolysis are preserved by the skip process, making them a natural bridge for subsequent crosslinking, which greatly improves the binding tightness of the finishing agent and the fibers; meanwhile, the complex biological enzyme and the complex crosslinking system form a functional complement, which not only realizes the fine optimization of the fiber surface, but also forms a protective film with stability and flexibility through the synergy of multiple components, which not only locks the fiber end to inhibit the generation of hair balls, but also avoids the problem of fabric stiffness caused by a single finishing agent. Finally, the prepared anti-pilling wool and tencel fabric performs excellently in the core anti-pilling performance and long-term water washing resistance, while maintaining excellent air permeability and wear resistance, and completely retaining the natural comfortable qualities of wool and tencel, breaking the long-standing contradiction between anti-pilling performance and wearing comfort and durability. In addition, the whole process is compatible with existing textile production equipment, and can be industrialized without large-scale modification, which not only reduces the production threshold, but also provides high-quality fabrics for high-end clothing field, significantly improves the product market competitiveness, and provides a new path with creativity and practicality for the anti-pilling modification of wool and tencel fabric.

[0088] The above describes the present application and its embodiments, which are not limited, and the drawings shown are only one of the embodiments of the present application, and the actual application is not limited thereto. In general, if a person skilled in the art is inspired by it, without departing from the purpose of the present application, similar ways and embodiments can be designed without creativity, which should belong to the protection scope of the present application.

Claims

1. A process for the preparation of anti-pilling wool tencel fabric characterized by, Specifically comprising the following steps: S1, core layer fiber and sheath layer fiber preparation: take the core layer fiber raw material to mix fully to form the core layer fiber, and take the sheath layer fiber raw material to mix, wherein the wool fiber is pretreated by protease to form the sheath layer fiber; S2, core layer fiber and sheath layer fiber are respectively drafted: the core layer fiber and the sheath layer fiber are respectively subjected to the processes of cleaning, carding and drawing to form the core layer sliver and the sheath layer sliver; S3, the spinning of the core-sheath structure yarn: the core layer sliver is taken as the core of the yarn and the sheath layer sliver is taken as the sheath of the yarn to perform the spinning by using the sirofil spinning technology, so that the core-sheath structure yarn is spun; S4, weaving and pretreatment: the prepared core-sheath structure yarn is taken as the warp and weft to weave into the gray cloth, and the gray cloth is subjected to desizing and scouring, washed to neutral, and then the pretreated fabric is obtained; S5, biological enzyme polishing treatment: the pretreated fabric is immersed in the composite biological enzyme finishing liquor to perform the biological enzyme polishing treatment, and after the treatment is completed, the fabric is directly taken out and evenly pressed to form the pressed fabric; S6, microwave curing to obtain the anti-pilling wool tencel fabric: the pressed fabric is immersed in the composite cross-linking finishing liquor, then is pressed to control the liquid rate, the immersed and pressed fabric is subjected to microwave curing, tentering and setting, then is treated by a prescaking machine, is inspected, packaged, and the anti-pilling wool tencel fabric is prepared; The core layer fiber raw material comprises 40-60 parts of wool fiber, 30-50 parts of tencel fiber and 5-15 parts of profiled cross-section polyester fiber; and the sheath layer fiber raw material comprises 20-40 parts of wool fiber and 50-80 parts of tencel fiber; The composite biological enzyme finishing liquor is prepared by adding 3.0% of the composite biological enzyme and 1.5% of the modified nanocellulose in the acetic acid-sodium acetate buffer solution with a pH value of 5.5, and mixing uniformly by mechanical stirring, wherein the composite biological enzyme is composed of cellulase and protease with a mass ratio of 3:1; The composite cross-linking finishing liquor is prepared by stirring and mixing 8% of the water-based polyurethane and 1.0% of the graphene oxide water dispersion liquid, slowly adding 3.0% of the modified nanocellulose under continuous stirring, and continuously stirring to obtain the composite cross-linking finishing liquor.

2. A process for preparing anti-pilling wool tencel fabric as claimed in claim 1, wherein, In step S5, the bath ratio of the treated fabric to the composite biological enzyme finishing liquor is 1:15-25.

3. A process for preparing anti-pilling wool tencel fabric as claimed in claim 1, wherein, The preparation process of the modified nanocellulose is as follows: i. Nanocellulose solids are weighed and dispersed in anhydrous DMF, stirred and dispersed to form a nanocellulose suspension, 4-dimethylaminopyridine is added to the suspension, and stirring is continued to form a reaction system; ii. Slowly add acetic anhydride to the reaction system, then heat and continuously reflux, cool to room temperature after the reaction is completed, centrifugal wash to obtain a precipitate, re-disperse the precipitate in anhydrous ethanol, and freeze-dry to obtain the modified nanocellulose.

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