Composition comprising UV-screening agent, semi-crystalline polymer containing at least one hydrocarbyl acrylate chain and scleroglucan gum

Abstract

The present invention relates to a composition, in particular a cosmetic or dermatological composition, preferably in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion, comprising:-at least one UV-screening agent; -at least one semi-crystalline polymer containing at least one hydrocarbyl acrylate chain; and-at least one scleroglucan gum. The invention makes it possible to obtain a composition with strong anti-UV protection, which composition is stable over time and furthermore exhibits good cosmetic properties, such as refreshing ability and a non-greasy and non-tacky texture.

Description

[0001] The present application relates to a composition, in particular a cosmetic or dermatological composition, comprising at least one UV screening agent, at least one semi-crystalline polymer containing at least one acrylic hydrocarbon ester chain and at least one scleroglucan gum, and to the use of said composition in the cosmetic and dermatological fields, in particular for caring for and treating keratin materials, and in particular for caring for, protecting and / or making up the skin of the body or the face.

[0002] It is known that light radiation with a wavelength between 280 and 400 nm makes it possible to tan the human epidermis. Rays with a wavelength more particularly between 280 and 320 nm, called UVB rays, cause skin redness and sunburn, which can be harmful to the development of a natural tan.

[0003] For these reasons and also for aesthetic reasons, there is a constant need for means for controlling this natural tanning so as to thus control the colour of the skin; the UVB radiation should therefore be screened. It is also known that UVA rays with a wavelength between 320 and 400 nm, which tan the skin, can bring about harmful changes to the skin, in particular in the case of sensitive skin or skin that is continuously exposed to solar radiation. The UVA rays in particular cause a loss of skin elasticity and the appearance of wrinkles, leading to premature ageing of the skin.

[0004] For aesthetic and cosmetic reasons, such as protecting the natural elasticity of the skin, more and more people therefore wish to control the effects of UVA rays on their skin. It is also desirable to screen the UVA radiation.

[0005] For the purpose of protecting the skin and keratin materials from UV radiation, photoprotective compositions comprising organic screening agents active in the UVA and UVB ranges are generally used.

[0006] To date, many cosmetic compositions intended for the photoprotection of the skin have been proposed. These compositions generally contain, in an emulsified liquid vehicle, preferably an oil-in-water emulsion, one or more organic molecules capable of absorbing ultraviolet radiation, which are soluble in the oil and / or water phases. Mineral pigments using metal oxides such as titanium dioxide are increasingly frequently used in such sunscreen compositions, since these particles, because of their small size, are not visible to the naked eye, making it possible to increase the protection factor of the compositions containing them.

[0007] One of the main drawbacks of these photoprotective emulsions containing organic screening agents and / or mineral screening agents lies in the difficulty of reconciling good product stability, easy product application, effective protection, preferably an SPF of at least 40 and a PPD of 10, and a fresh and non-tacky feel.

[0008] The Applicant has found that this aim can be achieved with a combination of a semi-crystalline polymer containing at least one hydrocarbyl acrylate chain and a scleroglucan gum.

[0009] Thus, according to a first aspect, the present application relates to a composition, in particular a cosmetic or dermatological composition, comprising: - at least one UV screening agent; - at least one semi-crystalline polymer containing at least one hydrocarbyl acrylate chain; and - at least one scleroglucan gum.

[0010] Quite against expectations, the inventors have found that the use of a scleroglucan gum in combination with a semi-crystalline polymer containing at least one hydrocarbyl acrylate chain in a photoprotective composition makes it possible to obtain a composition which is easy to spread, has a high photoprotective power and remains stable over time, and which also has good cosmetic properties, such as a freshening power and a non-greasy and non-tacky texture.

[0011] According to another aspect of the application, one subject of the application is also the use of a composition as defined above for caring for keratin materials, in particular the body and / or facial skin.

[0012] According to yet another aspect of the application, another subject of the application is a non-therapeutic cosmetic process for making up and / or caring for keratin materials, in particular the body and / or facial skin, comprising the application to said keratin materials of a cosmetic composition as defined previously.

[0013] The application also relates to a non-therapeutic cosmetic process for limiting the darkening of the skin and / or improving the color and / or the evenness of the complexion, comprising the application to the surface of a keratin material of at least one cosmetic composition as defined previously.

[0014] The application also relates to a non-therapeutic cosmetic process for preventing and / or treating the signs of aging of keratin materials, comprising the application to the surface of a keratin material of at least one cosmetic composition as defined previously.

[0015] The composition according to the application shows good stability. This stability can be evaluated macroscopically and / or microscopically after storage at ambient temperature (25°C), at 4°C, at 45°C or at 55°C for 24 hours, one week, one month or two months. A stable composition generally maintains its comfort and its organoleptic characteristics over time on application. More particularly, the stability of the composition can be evaluated qualitatively, for example by the absence of any phase separation phenomenon or the appearance of crystals, or quantitatively by monitoring the variation of a parameter such as the viscosity or the pH.

[0016] In the context of this invention, the shielding effectiveness is evaluated by assessing SPF and UVAPF.

[0017] For the purposes of this invention, the term “SPF” refers to the sun protection factor, which measures the level of protection against UVB radiation. The SPF value corresponds to the ratio between the minimum time required to obtain sunburn with the photoprotective composition and the minimum time required without using the product. More specifically, the term “SPF” is defined in the article A new substrate to measure sunscreen protection factors throughout the ultraviolet spectrum, J. Soc. Cosmet. Chem., 40, 127-133 (May / June 1989).

[0018] SPF (Sun Protection Factor) assessment can be performed in vitro using a Labsphere® spectrophotometer. The plate is the material for applying the photoprotective composition. For such a scheme, poly(methyl methacrylate) (PMMA) plates have proven ideal. A specific protocol presented as an example is currently being approved by ISO under the name ISO Committee Draft 23675.

[0019] The evaluation of the sun protection factor (SPF) of the composition can also be performed in vivo in accordance with the ISO 24444:2019 protocol "Cosmetics - Sun protection test methods - In vivo determination of the sun protection factor (SPF)".

[0020] For the purposes of this invention, the term "UVAPF" should be understood to refer to an indicator characterizing protection against UVA radiation. Specifically, this indicator can be measured in vivo according to the "PPD" (Persistent Pigmentation) method (protocol ISO-24442: 2022) by observing skin color 2 to 4 hours after exposure to UVA radiation. Protection against UVA radiation can also be assessed in vitro using a Labsphere® spectrophotometer. A plate is the material used to apply the sunscreen composition. For such an application, poly(methyl methacrylate) (PMMA) plates have proven ideal. Such an in vitro method is described in protocol ISO 24443: 2021.

[0021] Other features, aspects and advantages of the invention will become apparent upon reading the following detailed description.

[0022] The compositions according to the invention are intended for topical application and therefore contain a physiologically acceptable medium. The term "physiologically acceptable medium" here means a medium compatible with keratin materials.

[0023] In the context of this invention, the term "keratin material" specifically refers to skin, scalp, keratin fibers (such as eyelashes, eyebrows, hair and body hair, nails), mucous membranes (such as lips), and more particularly skin and mucous membranes (body, face, periorbital area, eyelids, lips, preferably body, face and lips).

[0024] In the following text, unless otherwise specified, the limits of the range of values ​​are included within that range, especially in expressions such as “between” and “ranging from… to…”.

[0025] Furthermore, the expressions “at least one” and “at least” used in this specification are equivalent to the expressions “one or more” and “greater than or equal to”, respectively.

[0026] According to the present invention, the terms "preventing" or "prevention" mean reducing the risk of a given phenomenon (i.e., signs of aging of keratin materials according to the present invention) or slowing down the occurrence of such a given phenomenon.

[0027] The term "organic UVA shielding agent" is intended to refer to any organic chemical molecule capable of absorbing UVA rays in the wavelength range of at least 320 to 400 nm; the molecule can also absorb UVB rays in the wavelength range of 280 to 320 nm.

[0028] The term "organic UVB shielding agent" should be understood to mean any organic chemical molecule that can absorb UVB radiation only in the wavelength range between 280 and 320 nm.

[0029] UV shielding agent The compositions according to the invention contain one or more UV-blocking agents. These may be selected from hydrophilic, lipophilic, or insoluble organic UV-blocking agents and / or one or more mineral pigments. Preferably, the blocking system will consist of at least one organic UV-blocking agent, particularly a hydrophilic, lipophilic, or insoluble organic UV-blocking agent.

[0030] The term "hydrophilic UV shielding agent" is intended to refer to any cosmetic or dermatological organic or inorganic compound used to shield against UV radiation, which can be completely dissolved in a liquid aqueous phase in molecular form or in colloidal form (e.g., in micelles) in a liquid aqueous phase.

[0031] The term "lipophilic UV shielding agent" is intended to refer to any cosmetic or dermatological organic or inorganic compound used to shield against UV radiation, which can be completely dissolved in a liquid fat phase in molecular form or in colloidal form (e.g., in micelles) in a liquid fat phase.

[0032] The term "insoluble UV shielding agent" is intended to refer to any cosmetic or dermatological organic or inorganic compound used to shield against UV radiation, having a solubility of less than 0.5% by weight in water and less than 0.5% by weight in most organic solvents, such as liquid paraffin, fatty alcohol benzoates, and fatty acid triglycerides, for example, Miglyol 812® sold by Dynamit Nobel. This solubility, determined at 70°C, is defined as the amount of product in solution in the solvent that balances with the excess solids in the suspension after returning to ambient temperature. This solubility can be readily assessed in a laboratory setting.

[0033] Organic UV shielding agents are particularly selected from cinnamic acid compounds; anthranilate compounds; salicylic acid compounds; benzoylmethane compounds; benzyl camphor compounds; benzophenone compounds; β,β-diphenyl acrylate compounds; triazine compounds; benzotriazole compounds; benzyl malonate compounds, especially those referenced in patent US 5,624,663; benzimidazole derivatives; imidazoline compounds; bis-benzoazole compounds, as described in patents EP 669,323 and US 2,463,264; methylene bis(hydroxyphenylbenzotriazole) compounds, as described in applications US 5,237,071, US 5,166,355, GB 2,303,549, DE 197,261,84 and EP 893,119; and benzoxazole compounds, as described in patent applications EP 0,832,642 and EP 1,027. 883, EP 1 300 137 and DE 101 62 844; masking polymers and masking silicones, such as those specifically described in application WO 93 / 04665; dimers derived from α-alkylstyrene, such as those described in patent application DE 198 55 649; 4,4-diarylbutadiene compounds, such as those described in applications EP0 967 200, DE 197 46 654, DE 197 55 649, EP-A-1 008 586, EP 1 133 980 and EP 133 981, and mixtures thereof.

[0034] Examples of organic photoprotectants include those indicated by their INCI names and / or their chemical names.

[0035] Cinnamic acid compounds: Ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate, especially marketed by DSM Nutritional Products under the brand name Parsol® MCX, Isoamyl p-methoxycinnamate, marketed by Symrise under the trade name Neo Heliopan E 1000®, Benzoylmethane compounds: Butylmethoxydibenzoylmethane, particularly marketed by DSM Nutrition Products under the trade name Parsol® 1789. Salicylic acid compounds: Homosalate, marketed by DSM Nutrition Products under the name Parsol® HMS, Ethylhexyl salicylate, marketed by Symrise under the name Neo Heliopan® OS. β,β-diphenylacrylate compounds: Octyl cyanobenzyl acrylate, particularly marketed by BASF under the trade name Uvinul® N 539 T. Benzophenone compounds: Benzophenone-3 or hydroxybenzophenone, marketed by BASF under the trade name Uvinul® M 40. 2-(4-Diethylamino-2-hydroxybenzoyl)benzoate, having the INCI name diethylaminohydroxybenzoyl hexyl benzoate, is marketed by BASF under the trade name Uvinul® A Plus, or as a mixture with ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate under the trade name Uvinul® A Plus B. 1,1'-(1,4-piperazinidyl)bis[1-[2-[4-(diethylamino)-2-hydroxybenzoyl]phenyl]methyl ketone] (CAS 919803-06-8), as described in application WO 2007 / 071584; such compounds are advantageously used in micronized form (average size of 0.02 to 2 µm) and particularly in aqueous dispersion form, said micronized form which can be obtained, for example, according to the micronization methods described in applications GB-A-2 303 549 and EP-A-893 119. Benzyl camphor compounds: 4-Methylbenzyl camphor, marketed by Merck under the name Eusolex® 6300, Terephthalimide dicamphor sulfonic acid, manufactured by Noval under the name Mexoryl® SX. Phenylbenzimidazole compounds: Phenylenic acid, especially that marketed by Merck under the trade name Eusolex® 232, Bis-benzoazole compounds: Disodium phenyl dibenzimidazole tetrasulfonate, marketed by Symrise under the brand name Neo Heliopan® AP. Phenylbenzotriazole compounds: Cresoltrazol trisiloxane, manufactured by Noval under the name Mexoryl® XL. Methylenebis(hydroxyphenylbenzotriazole) compounds Methylenebis(benzotriazolyl)tetramethylbutylphenol, particularly in solid form, such as the product sold by Fairmount Chemical under the trade name Mixcim BB / 100®; or in micronized particles (average particle size ranging from 0.01 to 5 µm, more preferably 0.01 to 2 µm and more particularly 0.020 to 2 µm) with a structure C n H 2n+1 O(C6H 10 O5) x H (where n is an integer from 8 to 16 and x is (C6H) 10 An aqueous dispersion of at least one alkyl polyglycoside surfactant having an average degree of polymerization of O5 units ranging from 1.4 to 1.6, as described in patent GB-A-2 303549, and particularly sold by BASF under the trade name Tinosorb® M; or in the form of at least one polyglycerol mono(C8-C5) with an average degree of polymerization of at least 5 glycerol units. 20 The aqueous dispersion of micronized particles with an average particle size ranging from 0.02 to 2 µm, more preferably from 0.01 to 1.5 µm, and more particularly from 0.02 to 1 µm in the presence of alkyl esters, such as the aqueous dispersion described in application WO 2009 / 063392, particularly the product marketed by BASF under the name Tinosorb® WPGL. Triazine compounds: - 3,3'-(1,4-phenylene)bis(5,6-diphenyl-1,2,4-triazine), which has the INCI name phenylenebis-diphenyltriazine, - Bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine, marketed by DSM Nutrition Products under the trade name ParsolShield® and by BASF under the trade name Tinosorb® S, and in its water-dispersible form, having the INCI name bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine (and) acrylate / C12-22 alkyl methacrylate copolymer, marketed by BASF under the trade name Tinosorb® S LiteAqua. - Ethylhexyltriazine, particularly marketed by BASF under the trade name Uvinul® T 150, - Diethylhexylbutamidotriazinone, marketed by Sigma 3V under the trade name Uvasorb® HEB. - Symmetrical triazine masking agents substituted with naphthyl or polyphenyl groups, described in patent US 6,225,467, application WO2004 / 085412 (see compounds 6 and 9) or the literature “Symmetrical Triazine Derivatives”, IP.COM IPCOM000031257, Inc., WestHenrietta, NY, US (September 20, 2004), particularly 2,4,6-tris(biphenyl)triazine and 2,4,6-tris(biphenyl)triazine, marketed by BASF under the name Tinosorb® A2B and also in patent applications WO 06 / 035000, WO 06 / 034982, WO 06 / 034991, WO 06 / 035007, WO 2006 / 034992 and WO As mentioned in 2006 / 034985, these compounds are advantageously used in a micronized form (average particle size of 0.02 to 3 µm) and particularly in an aqueous dispersion form, which can be obtained, for example, by the micronization methods described in applications GB-A-2 303 549 and EP-A-893 119. o-aminobenzoic acid compounds: Menthyl anthranilate, marketed by Symrise under the trade name Neo Heliopan MA, benzyl malonate compounds: Polysiloxanes containing benzyl malonate functional groups, such as polysiloxane-15 marketed by DSM Nutrition Products under the trade name Parsol® SLX, Benzoxazole compounds: 2,4-Bis[5-1-(dimethylpropyl)benzoxazol-2-yl-(4-phenyl)imino]-6-(2-ethylhexyl)imino-1,3,5-triazine, marketed by Sigma 3V under the name Uvasorb® K2A. 2-[4-(1,3-benzoxazole-2-yl)phenyl]-1,3-benzoxazole, with CAS number 904-39-2.

[0036] Preferred organic masking agents are selected from: Ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate, Ethylhexyl salicylate, Humosalt, Butylmethoxydibenzoylmethane, Octyl cyanobenzyl acrylate, Phenylenic acid, Benzophenone-3, Diethylaminohydroxybenzoyl benzoate, 4-Methylbenzylidene camphor, terephthalomethyl dicamphorsulfonic acid, Sodium phenyldibenzimidazole tetrasulfonate Methylenebis-benzotriazolyltetramethylbutylphenol, bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine, Ethylhexyltriazinone, Diethylhexylbutyramidotriazinone 2,4,6-Tris(biphenyl)triazine, 2,4,6-Tris(triphenyl)triazine, Cresoltrazol trisiloxane, Polysiloxane-15 bis(diethylaminohydroxybenzoylbenzoyl)piperazine, and its mixtures.

[0037] The preferred organic masking agents are selected from: Ethylhexyl salicylate, Humosalt, Butylmethoxydibenzoylmethane, Octyl cyanobenzyl acrylate, Diethylaminohydroxybenzoyl benzoate, terephthalomethyl dicamphorsulfonic acid, bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine, Ethylhexyltriazinone, Diethylhexylbutyramidotriazinone bis(diethylaminohydroxybenzoylbenzoyl)piperazine, Cresoltrazol trisiloxane, 2,4,6-Tris(biphenyl)triazine, and its mixtures.

[0038] According to specific embodiments, the compositions according to the present invention comprise bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine.

[0039] The inorganic UV-masking agent used according to the present invention can be a metal oxide pigment. More preferably, the inorganic UV-masking agent of the present invention is a metal oxide particle with an average basic particle size of less than or equal to 0.5 µm, more preferably between 0.005 and 0.5 µm, even more preferably between 0.01 and 0.2 µm, even more preferably between 0.01 and 0.1 µm, and more particularly between 0.015 and 0.05 µm. They are specifically described in Annex VI of the updated EU Regulation No. 1223 / 2009 concerning cosmetic products, dated 22 September 2021, but are not limited to this list.

[0040] They can be selected, in particular, from titanium oxides, zinc oxides, iron oxides, zirconium oxides and cerium oxides, or mixtures thereof.

[0041] Such coated or uncoated metal oxide pigments are specifically described in patent application EP-A-0 518 773. As commercial pigments, products sold by Croda, Tayca, and Merck may be mentioned.

[0042] Metal oxide pigments can be coated or uncoated.

[0043] The coated pigment is a pigment that has been chemically, electronically, mechanically, and / or mechanically treated with one or more compounds, such as amino acids, beeswax, fatty acids, fatty alcohols, anionic surfactants, lecithin, sodium, potassium, zinc, iron, or aluminum salts of fatty acids, metal alkoxides (of titanium or aluminum), polyethylene, silicone, proteins (collagen, elastin), alkanolamines, silicon dioxide, metal oxides, or sodium hexametaphosphate.

[0044] The coated pigments are more specifically titanium oxides, which have been coated with the following: - Hydrated silica, such as MT-100WP from Imperial Chemical Industries, - Silica and iron oxide, such as Sunveil F® from Ikeda Corporation. - Silica and alumina, such as MT-500SA® and MT-100SA® from Imperial Chemical Industries and Tioveil™ AQ-N from Croda. - Alumina, such as TTO-55 (A)® from Ishihara Corporation, - Alumina and aluminum stearate, such as products from Teikoku Chemical Company, MT-100TV® and MT-100Z. ® and MT-01 ® Solaveyil™ CT100, a product from Croda Corporation® And Eusolex T-AVO from Merck. ® , - Silica, alumina, and alginate, such as MT-100AQ from Imperial Chemical Industries. ® , - Alumina and aluminum lauryl, - Iron oxide and ferric stearate, - Zinc oxide and zinc stearate, - Silica and alumina treated with silicone, such as MTY-500SAS® or Microtitanium Dioxide MT-100SAS® from Imperial Chemical Industries. - Silica, aluminum oxide, and aluminum stearate, and treated with silicone. - Silicon dioxide and treated with silicone. - Silicon dioxide treated with silicone, such as TTO-55(S)® from Ishihara Corporation. - Triethanolamine - Stearic acid, such as TTO-55 (C)® from Ishihara S.A. - Sodium hexametaphosphate, - TiO2 treated with octyltrimethylsilane - TiO2 treated with polydimethylsiloxane - Anatase / rutile TiO2 treated with polydimethylsiloxane - By Croda Corporation under the trade name Solaveyil TM The CT-200 sold contains TiO2 coated with triisooctanoic acid glyceride, aluminum stearate, and aluminum oxide. - By Croda Corporation under the trade name Solaveyil TM The CT-12W is sold as TiO2 coated with aluminum stearate, alumina, and silicone. - TiO2 coated with lauroyl lysine - Encapsulated with C9-C 15 Fluoro-coated phosphates and TiO2 of aluminum hydroxide.

[0045] It may also be mentioned that TiO2 pigments doped with at least one transition metal (such as iron, zinc, or manganese, and more particularly manganese). Preferably, the doped pigment is in the form of an oily dispersion. The oil present in the oily dispersion is preferably selected from triglycerides, including those of capric / capric acid. The oily dispersion of the titanium dioxide particles may also contain one or more dispersants, such as sorbitan esters, such as sorbitan isostearate, or polyoxyalkylene fatty acid esters of glycerol, such as Tri-PPG-3 myristyl ether citrate and polyglycerol-3 polyricinoleate. Preferably, the oily dispersion of the titanium dioxide particles contains at least one dispersant selected from polyoxyalkylene fatty acid esters of glycerol. More specifically, an oily dispersion of manganese-doped TiO2 particles in decanoic acid / caprylic acid triglycerides can be mentioned in the presence of Tri-PPG-3 myristyl ether citrate, polyglycerol-3 polyricinoleate, and sorbitan isostearate, having the following INCI name: titanium dioxide (and) TRI-PPG-3 myristyl ether citrate (and) polyglycerol-3 polyricinoleate (and) sorbitan isostearate, for example, by Croda under the trade name Optisol. TM Products sold by OTP-1.

[0046] Uncoated titanium dioxide pigments are, for example, sold by Imperial Chemical Industries under the trade names MT-500B or MT-600B®, or by Evonik under the name Degussa P 25.

[0047] Uncoated zinc oxide pigments are, for example: - Those sold by BASF under the name Z-Cote®; - Those sold by Nanophase Technologies under the name NanoArc® Zinc Oxide.

[0048] The coated zinc oxide pigment is, for example: - ZnO coated with polymethylhydrosiloxane; - Solaveyil™ CZ-100 from Croda, dispersed in benzoic acid C 12 -C 15 Alkyl esters (INCI: zinc oxide (and) benzoic acid C12-15 alkyl esters (and) polyhydroxystearic acid (and) isostearic acid); - Those sold by Daito Kasei under the name Daitopersion Zn-60VA® (in C9-C with dispersant) 12 (dispersions in alkanes); - Those sold by Shin-Etsu under the name SPD-Z5® (ZnO coated with silicone-grafted acrylic polymers dispersed in cyclodimethylsiloxane).

[0049] Uncoated cerium oxide pigments can be, for example, those sold by Solvay under the name Rhodigard® W185.

[0050] Mixtures of metal oxides may also be mentioned, especially mixtures of titanium dioxide and cerium dioxide, including equal weight mixtures of titanium dioxide and cerium dioxide coated with silica, and mixtures of titanium dioxide and zinc dioxide coated with alumina, silica and silicone or coated with alumina, silica and glycerol.

[0051] According to the present invention, coated or uncoated titanium dioxide pigments are particularly preferred.

[0052] The UV masking agent may be present in the composition according to the invention in an amount ranging from 0.1% to 60% by weight, preferably from 1% to 40% by weight, and even more preferably from 5% to 30% by weight, and even more preferably from 10% to 25% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0053] Semi-crystalline polymers containing at least one acrylate hydrocarbon ester chain As indicated above, the compositions according to the invention comprise at least one semi-crystalline polymer containing at least one acrylate hydrocarbon ester chain, wherein the alkyl group is preferably C10. 16 -C 22 .

[0054] For the purposes of this invention, the term "semi-crystalline polymer" should be understood to mean a polymer that contains crystallizable portions, side chains or blocks in the main chain and amorphous portions in the main chain and has a first-order reversible phase transition temperature, particularly a melting point (solid-liquid transition).

[0055] When the crystallizable portion is a block of the polymer backbone, the crystallizable block has chemical properties that are different from those of the amorphous block; in this case, the semi-crystalline polymer is a block polymer, such as a diblock, triblock, or multiblock type block polymer, which contains at least one crystallizable block and at least one amorphous block.

[0056] The term "block" should generally be understood to mean at least five identical repeating units. Crystallizable blocks thus have different chemical properties than five amorphous blocks.

[0057] Advantageously, the semi-crystalline polymers of the compositions of the present invention containing at least one acrylate hydrocarbon ester chain have an average molecular weight (Mn) greater than or equal to about 2000 g / mol, preferably about 2000 to 800,000 g / mol, preferably about 3000 to 500,000 g / mol, preferably about 4000 to 150,000 g / mol, and more preferably about 4000 to 99,000 g / mol.

[0058] Apart from crystallizable chains or blocks, polymer blocks are amorphous.

[0059] For the purposes of this invention, the term "crystallizable chain or block" should be understood to mean a chain or block that, if separate, will reversibly change from an amorphous state to a crystalline state depending on whether the temperature is above or below the melting point. For the purposes of this invention, a chain is a group of atoms that is overhanging or sideways relative to the polymer backbone. A block is a group of atoms belonging to the backbone that constitutes one of the repeating units of the polymer. Advantageously, a "crystallizable side chain" can be a chain containing at least six carbon atoms.

[0060] Preferably, the polymer backbone of the semi-crystalline polymer is soluble in the oil phase.

[0061] Therefore, a semi-crystalline polymer containing at least one acrylate hydrocarbon ester chain, which is used in the compositions of the present invention, is typically introduced into the oil phase of the composition.

[0062] Preferably, the crystallizable blocks or chains of the semi-crystalline polymer containing at least one acrylate ester chain account for at least about 30% by weight and more preferably at least about 40% by weight relative to the total weight of each polymer.

[0063] The semi-crystalline polymers containing crystallizable blocks used in this invention are block or multi-block polymers. They can be obtained by polymerizing monomers with reactive (or olefinic) double bonds or by polycondensation. When the polymers of this invention are polymers with crystallizable side chains, these polymers advantageously exhibit random or statistical forms.

[0064] The semi-crystalline polymers of this invention can be of synthetic origin. Furthermore, they do not contain a polysaccharide backbone.

[0065] The semi-crystalline polymer of the compositions of the present invention may or may not be partially crosslinked. It may thus be a case of chemical crosslinking via reaction with a multifunctional monomer during polymerization. It may also be a case of physical crosslinking, which may be due to the formation of hydrogen bonds or dipole-type bonds between polymer-carrying groups, such as dipole interactions between carboxylic acid ester ionomers, which are minor and carried by the polymer backbone; or due to phase separation between crystalline and amorphous blocks carried by the polymer.

[0066] Preferably, the semi-crystalline polymer containing at least one acrylate hydrocarbon ester chain in the composition according to the invention is non-crosslinked.

[0067] As an example of a semi-crystalline polymer containing at least one acrylate hydrocarbon ester chain according to the present invention, those produced by the polymerization of one or more saturated (meth)acrylate alkyl esters may be mentioned.

[0068] Preferably, the semi-crystalline polymer with crystallizable side chains is a homopolymer of (meth)acrylate alkyl esters, or a copolymer of these monomers with a hydrophilic monomer.

[0069] According to a specific embodiment of the invention, the semi-crystalline polymer containing at least one acrylate hydrocarbon ester chain is derived from a monomer with a crystallizable chain, the monomer being selected from saturated (meth)acrylate alkyl esters and even more particularly poly(stearyl acrylate) or poly(succinate acrylate).

[0070] According to another specific embodiment of the invention, the semi-crystalline polymer containing at least one acrylate hydrocarbon ester chain is selected from copolymers produced by polymerization of at least one monomer having a crystallizable chain and selected from saturated (meth)acrylate alkyl esters.

[0071] According to a preferred embodiment, the semi-crystalline polymer containing at least one acrylate hydrocarbon ester chain is selected from homopolymers obtained by polymerization of monomers selected from alkyl acrylates and alkyl methacrylates, and copolymers obtained by copolymerization of monomers selected from alkyl acrylates and alkyl methacrylates with hydrophilic monomers, preferably N-vinylpyrrolidone or hydroxyethyl (meth)acrylate and mixtures thereof.

[0072] As a specific example of a semi-crystalline polymer that can be used in the compositions according to the invention, reference can be made to homopolymers obtained by polymerization of monomers selected from alkyl acrylates and alkyl methacrylates, preferably stearyl acrylates and benzyl acrylates, especially polymers of polyacrylate C10-30 alkyl acrylates with INCI names, such as Intelimer® products from Evonik, such as Intelimer® IPA 13-1 (which is a polystearyl acrylate), or Intelimer® IPA 13-6 (which is a benzyl polymer (polybenzyl acrylate)), or Tego® SP products from Evonik.

[0073] As a specific example of a semi-crystalline polymer that can be used in a composition, reference may also be made to copolymers obtained by copolymerizing monomers selected from alkyl acrylates and alkyl methacrylates with hydrophilic monomers, preferably hydroxyethyl (meth)acrylate, especially copolymers described in applications FR 3 073 405 and FR 3 073 406, and preferably copolymers obtained by copolymerizing at least one monomer selected from alkyl acrylates (preferably benzyl acrylate, stearyl acrylate and mixtures thereof) with hydrophilic monomers such as hydroxyethyl (meth)acrylate and N-vinylpyrrolidone, and preferably hydroxyethyl acrylate).

[0074] Preferably, the semi-crystalline polymer containing at least one acrylate hydrocarbon ester chain is a benzyl acrylate / 2-hydroxyethyl acrylate copolymer, stearyl acrylate / 2-hydroxyethyl acrylate copolymer and / or mixtures thereof, and in particular polymers having the following INCI name: poly(C12-22 alkyl acrylate) / hydroxyethyl acrylate copolymer, especially those sold by Evonik under the name Tego SP Senstar.

[0075] According to a preferred embodiment, the semi-crystalline polymer containing at least one acrylate hydrocarbon ester chain is selected from polystearic acid, polysorbate, polysorbate / 2-hydroxyethyl acrylate copolymer, stearate / 2-hydroxyethyl acrylate copolymer, and mixtures thereof, particularly from polymers having the INCI name of poly(C10-30) alkyl acrylate, copolymers having the INCI name of poly(C12-22) alkyl acrylate / hydroxyethyl acrylate copolymer, and mixtures thereof, and more particularly from polymers having the INCI name of poly(C12-22) alkyl acrylate / hydroxyethyl acrylate copolymer.

[0076] According to a more preferred embodiment, the semi-crystalline polymer containing at least one acrylate hydrocarbon ester chain is a polymer having the following INCI name: C12-22 alkyl acrylate / hydroxyethyl acrylate copolymer.

[0077] More specifically, the compositions according to the invention comprise at least one lipophilic acrylic polymer containing monomer units of formula (A) and formula (B) as a semi-crystalline polymer: [Chemical Formula 1] in: R1 is independently selected from alkyl or alkenyl groups in each case. and At least 60% by weight of the R1 groups are selected from stearyl and benzyl groups, and the weight percentage is relative to the sum of all R1 groups present in the polymer. and The weight ratio of the sum of all hydroxyethyl acrylate units to the sum of all acrylate units bearing the R1 group ranges from 1:30 to 1:1. Furthermore, the total sum of units A and B is at least 95% of the total weight of the polymer.

[0078] Preferably, R1 is composed of alkyl groups, preferably C. 16 -C 22 Alkyl groups, and more preferably stearyl groups (C 18 ) or Shamrock (C 22 )constitute.

[0079] Preferably, at least 70% by weight, more preferably at least 80% by weight, and even more preferably at least 90% by weight, of the R1 group is stearyl or benzyl.

[0080] According to a preferred embodiment, all R1 groups are benzyl groups.

[0081] According to another preferred embodiment, all R1 groups are stearyl groups.

[0082] Preferably, the weight ratio of the sum of all hydroxyethyl acrylate units to the sum of all acrylate units with R1 groups is in the range of 1:15 to 1:1, and more preferably in the range of 1:10 to 1:4.

[0083] Advantageously, the polymer units present in the polymer are composed of the previously described units (A) and (B).

[0084] The polymer has a number-average molecular weight Mn ranging from 2000 to 9000 g / mol, preferably from 5000 to 9000 g / mol. The number-average molecular weight can be measured by gel permeation chromatography, for example, according to the methods described in the examples below.

[0085] Preferably, the polymer has a melting point in the range of 40°C to 70°C, and more preferably in the range of 45°C to 67°C. The melting point is measured by differential scanning calorimetry (DSC), for example according to the method described in the examples below.

[0086] According to the first embodiment, when the polymer is such that at least 60% by weight of the R1 group is stearyl, then the polymer preferably has a melting point in the range of 40°C to 60°C, and more preferably in the range of 45°C to 55°C.

[0087] According to the second embodiment, when the polymer is such that at least 60% by weight of the R1 group is benzyl, then the polymer has a melting point in the range of 60°C to 70°C, and preferably in the range of 63°C to 67°C.

[0088] The polymer used according to the present invention can be prepared by polymerization of a monomer having the following formula and 2-hydroxyethyl acrylate: CH2=CH-COO-R1, R1 has the meaning described above.

[0089] Polymerization can be carried out using known methods, such as solution polymerization or emulsion polymerization.

[0090] Aggregation is described, for example, in the document US 2007 / 0264204.

[0091] A semi-crystalline polymer containing at least one acrylate hydrocarbon ester chain may be present in the composition according to the invention at an active material content ranging from 0.05% to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.1% to 5% by weight, and even more preferably from 0.2% to 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0092] Dextran gum According to the present invention, the composition comprises one or more sclerosing dextran gums.

[0093] Stibnose gum is a microbial polysaccharide produced by fungi of the genus *Sclerotium*, particularly *Sclerotium rolfsii*. These are polysaccharides composed solely of glucose units.

[0094] The sclerosing gum may or may not be modified. Preferably, the sclerosing gum used in this invention is unmodified.

[0095] In a non-limiting manner, examples of hard dextran gums that can be used in this invention are products sold by Sanofi Bio Industries under the name Actigum CS, particularly Actigum CS 11, and by Alban Müller International under the names Amigum or Amigel.

[0096] Other hard dextran gums can also be used, such as the glyoxal-treated gum described in French patent application number 2 633 940.

[0097] The hard dextran gum that can be used according to the present invention preferably accounts for 0.1% to 10% of the total weight of the composition, more preferably 0.2% to 5% of the total weight, and even more preferably 0.25% to 3% of the total weight, and even more preferably 0.35% to 2% of the total weight.

[0098] Presentation format According to one specific embodiment of the present invention, the composition is in the form of an emulsion.

[0099] The term "emulsion" refers to any macroscopically homogeneous and kinetically stable composition comprising at least two immiscible phases: one is a dispersed continuous phase, and the other is dispersed in droplets within said continuous phase. The two phases are typically stabilized kinetically by an emulsification system that may contain at least one emulsifying surfactant.

[0100] There is a distinction between water-in-oil emulsions (called "direct") consisting of a continuous aqueous dispersion and a discontinuous oil dispersion, and oil-in-water emulsions (called "reverse emulsions") consisting of a continuous oil dispersion and a discontinuous aqueous dispersion. Multiple emulsions also exist, such as water-in-oil-in-water or oil-in-water-in-oil.

[0101] According to a preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention is a direct emulsion.

[0102] The compositions according to the invention may contain at least one emulsifier selected from amphoteric, anionic, cationic, or nonionic emulsifiers, used alone or as a mixture. The emulsifier is appropriately selected according to the desired emulsion (W / O or O / W).

[0103] Examples of W / O nonionic emulsifying surfactants that may be mentioned include alkyl esters or ethers of sorbitol, glycerol, polyols, or sugars; silicone surfactants, such as polydimethylsiloxane copolyols, like mixtures of cyclomethicone and polydimethylsiloxane copolyols, marketed by Dow Corning under the name DC 5225 C®; and alkyl polydimethylsiloxane copolyols, such as lauryl polymethylsiloxane copolyols marketed by Dow Corning under the name Dow Corning 5200 formulation aids; cetyl polydimethylsiloxane copolyols, such as products marketed by Goldschmidt under the name Abil EM 90R®; and mixtures of cetyl polydimethylsiloxane copolyols, polyglycerol isostearate (4 mol), and hexyl laurate, marketed by Goldschmidt under the name Abil WE O9®. One or more co-emulsifiers may also be added, which may be advantageously selected from the group consisting of polyol alkyl esters.

[0104] Non-silicone emulsifying surfactants, especially sorbitol, glycerol, polyols, or alkyl esters or ethers of sugars, may also be mentioned.

[0105] Alkyl polyol esters that may be mentioned in particular include polyethylene glycol esters, such as PEG-30 dimer hydroxystearate, as sold by Imperial Chemical Industries (ICI) under the name Arlacel P135®.

[0106] Examples of glycerol and / or sorbitan esters that may be mentioned include polyglycerol isostearate, such as the product sold by High Schmidt under the name Isolan GI 34®; sorbitan isostearate, such as the product sold by Imperial Chemical Industries under the name Arlacel 987®; sorbitan glycerol isostearate, such as the product sold by Imperial Chemical Industries under the name Arlacel 986®, and mixtures thereof.

[0107] For O / W emulsions, nonionic emulsifying surfactants that can be mentioned include, for example, polyoxyalkylene (more particularly polyoxyethylene and / or polyoxypropylene) esters of fatty acids and glycerol, such as the polyethylene glycol and stearic acid esters of PEG-100 stearate with the INCI name PEG-100 stearate sold by Croda under the name Myrj S100-PA-(SG); oxyalkylene esters of fatty acids and dehydrated sorbitol; polyoxyalkylene (especially polyoxyethylene and / or polyoxypropylene) esters of fatty acids, optionally combined with esters of fatty acids and glycerol, such as PEG-100 stearate / glyceryl stearate mixtures, for example sold by Imperial Chemical Industries under the name Arlacel 165; oxyalkylene (oxyethylene and / or oxypropylene) ethers of fatty alcohols; esters of sugars, such as sucrose stearate; or ethers of fatty alcohols and sugars, especially alkyl polyglucosides (APGs), such as C 12 -C 20 Alkyl glucosides, such as those marketed by SEPPIC under the names Montanov L, Decyl glucoside, and Lauryl glucoside, and for example, those marketed by Henkel under the corresponding names Plantaren 2000® and Plantaren 1200®; cetearyl glucoside, optionally as a mixture with cetearyl alcohol, for example, marketed by SEPPIC under the name Montanov 68®, by High Schmidt under the name Tegocare CG90®, and by Henkel under the name Emulgade KE3302®; and arachidyl glucoside, for example, in the form of a mixture of arachidyl alcohol, betaine alcohol, and arachidyl glucoside, marketed by SEPPIC under the name Montanov 202®. According to a specific embodiment of the invention, mixtures of the alkyl polyglucosides as defined above with the corresponding fatty alcohols can be in the form of self-emulsifying compositions, for example, as described in document WO-A-92 / 06778.

[0108] As an anionic surfactant that enables the production of O / W emulsions, one could mention a selection of at least one C8-C based surfactant. 30 C8-C is preferred. 24Surfactants of chain-modified amino acids and their salts, particularly acylglutamic acid (INCI name: acylglutamic acid) or its salts (acylglutamate salts), such as stearoylglutamic acid or its salts, especially sodium stearoylglutamate (INCI name).

[0109] These compounds are marketed by Ajinomoto under the name Amisoft and, in particular, under the index numbers Amisoft CA, Amisoft LA, Amisoft HS 11 PF, Amisoft MK-11, Amisoft LK-11 and Amisoft CK-11, or alternatively by Cognis under the name Eumulgin SG.

[0110] Anionic surfactants that enable the production of O / W emulsions can also be mentioned, particularly hydrophobically modified polysaccharides, especially those with hydrophobic chains (such as alkyl carbamate groups, especially C8-C carbamate). 18 Inulin modified with alkyl ester groups, and more particularly with carbamate lauryl groups.

[0111] Examples of these compounds that can be specifically mentioned include a product marketed by Creachem under the name Inutec SL1.

[0112] Alkyl polyglycoside type nonionic surfactants According to a first specific embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises one or more alkyl polyglycoside-type nonionic surfactants.

[0113] The alkyl polyglycoside-type nonionic surfactants that can be used according to the present invention are selected from compounds having the following general formula: R1O-(R2O) t -(G) v ,in: - R1 represents a straight-chain or branched alkyl or alkenyl group containing 6 to 24 carbon atoms, especially 8 to 18 carbon atoms, or an alkylphenyl group containing 6 to 24 carbon atoms, especially 8 to 18 carbon atoms; - R2 indicates an alkylene group containing 2 to 4 carbon atoms; - G represents a sugar unit containing 5 to 6 carbon atoms; - t indicates a value ranging from 0 to 10, and preferably from 0 to 4; - v indicates a range of 1 to 15, with a preferred value of 1 to 4.

[0114] Preferably, the alkyl (poly)glycoside type nonionic surfactant is a compound of the above formula, wherein: - R1 indicates a straight-chain or branched, saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon group containing 8 to 18 carbon atoms; - R2 indicates an alkylene group containing 2 to 4 carbon atoms; - t indicates a value ranging from 0 to 3, and preferably equal to 0; - G indicates glucose, fructose, or galactose, preferably glucose; - The degree of polymerization (i.e., v value) may range from 1 to 15 and is preferably from 1 to 4; the average degree of polymerization is more particularly between 1 and 2, and even better between 1.1 and 1.5.

[0115] The glycosidic bonds between sugar units are usually of type 1-6 or 1-4, and are preferably of type 1-4.

[0116] Preferably, the alkyl (poly)glycoside is an alkyl (poly)glucan.

[0117] Preferably, the nonionic surfactant is selected from (C6-C6) 24 Alkyl) polyglycosides, such as cocoyl glucoside, octyl / decyl glucoside, lauryl glucoside, decyl glucoside and cetearyl glucoside, and mixtures thereof.

[0118] Preferably, the composition comprises one or more components selected from (C6-C) 24 Alkyl polyglycosides (alone or as a mixture), and more particularly (C8-C 18 Nonionic surfactants of alkyl(poly)glycosides.

[0119] Among commercial products, references may be made to products sold by COGNIS under the names Planteren® (600 CS / U, 1200, and 2000) or Plantacare® (818, 1200, and 2000); products sold by Sepik under the names Oramix CG 110 and Oramix® NS 10; products sold by BASF under the name Lutensol GD 70; products sold by CHEMIY under the name AG10 LK; products sold by Evonik Goldschmidt under the trade names Tego Care CG 90 or Tego Care CG 90 MB; products sold by Sepik under the trade names Montanov® L, Montanov® 68, Montanov® 68 MB, Montanov® 14, or Montanov® 202; or products sold by BASF under the name Emulgade® PL 68 / 50.

[0120] Preferably, the total content of the alkyl polyglycoside type nonionic surfactant ranges from 0.01 wt% to 15 wt% relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably from 0.1 wt% to 10 wt%, more preferably from 0.2 wt% to 8 wt%, even more preferably from 0.3 wt% to 6 wt%, and even more preferably from 0.3 wt% to 3 wt%.

[0121] Polyol fatty acid ester and carboxylic acid or carboxylate anionic surfactants According to a second specific embodiment, the composition according to the present invention comprises: - At least one C2-C 24 C of polyols 12 -C 24 Fatty acid esters, preferably at least one glycerol C 16 -C 18 Fatty acid esters; and - At least one carboxylic acid or carboxylate anionic surfactant selected from at least one C8-C based surfactant. 30 C8-C is preferred. 24 Chain-modified amino acids and their salts from hydrocarbons.

[0122] C-type fatty acid esters used for polyols, preferably fatty acid esters of glycerol. 12 -C 24 Fatty acids can be saturated or unsaturated acids, such as stearic acid, oleic acid, or palmitic acid.

[0123] For the purposes of this invention, the term "polyol" should be understood to mean any organic molecule containing at least two free hydroxyl groups.

[0124] The fatty acid esters used for polyols can be straight-chain, branched, or cyclic, saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon-type compounds that have at least two OH functional groups on the hydrocarbon chain, and particularly at least three OH functional groups.

[0125] The fatty acid esters of polyols that are advantageously suited to polyols are preferably those having 3 to 16 carbon atoms.

[0126] Advantageously, the polyol can be selected from, for example, ethylene glycol, pentaerythritol, trimethylolpropane, propylene glycol, 1,3-propanediol, butanediol, isopentylene glycol, pentylene glycol, hexanediol, polyglycerol-3 and glycerol, and mixtures thereof.

[0127] According to a preferred embodiment of the present invention, the polyol is selected from 1,3-propanediol, polyglycerol-3, glycerol, pentanediol, and mixtures thereof. It is preferably glycerol.

[0128] According to a specific embodiment of the present invention, the composition comprises at least one C of glycerol. 12 -C 24 Fatty acid esters.

[0129] C as glycerol 12 -C 24 Examples of fatty acid esters may include glyceryl laurate, glyceryl oleate, glyceryl stearate, glyceryl palmitate, and mixtures thereof.

[0130] As commercially available products, glyceryl stearate, such as the product sold by Evonik High Schmidt under the name TeginMO, and glyceryl laurate, such as the product sold by Hiils under the name Imwitor 312O.

[0131] Alternatively, glyceryl monostearate (INCI name: glyceryl stearate) can be used, such as those sold by Danisco under the name Dimodan HP, or by Evonik High Schmidt under the name Tegin 90.

[0132] Preferably, the C of glycerol 12 -C 24 The fatty acid is glyceryl stearate.

[0133] Favorably, C2-C 24 C of polyols 12 -C 24 Fatty acid esters are present in the composition according to the invention in an amount ranging from 0.1% to 2% by weight, preferably from 0.2% to 0.8% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0134] The term "hydrocarbon-based chain" is intended to refer to a straight-chain or branched, saturated or unsaturated organic group primarily composed of hydrogen and carbon atoms, wherein one or more carbon atoms may be replaced by oxygen or nitrogen atoms. As a C8-C based... 30 An example of a hydrocarbon chain can be mentioned: C8-C. 30 Acyl group.

[0135] Examples of amino acids that can be mentioned include alanine, arginine, aspartic acid, glutamic acid, glycine, isoleucine, leucine, lysine, phenylalanine, serine, tyrosine, valine, and sarcosine.

[0136] More specifically, among the carboxylate anionic surfactants selected from salts of at least one aliphatic chain-modified amino acid, the following compounds may be mentioned: dipotassium octanoyl glutamate, dipotassium undecenoyl glutamate, disodium octanoyl glutamate, disodium cocoyl glutamate, disodium lauroyl glutamate, disodium stearoyl glutamate, disodium undecenoyl glutamate, potassium octanoyl glutamate, potassium cocoyl glutamate, potassium lauroyl glutamate, potassium myristoyl glutamate, potassium stearoyl glutamate, potassium stearoyl glutamate Potassium glutamate, undecenoyl glutamate potassium, sodium octanoyl glutamate, sodium cocoyl glutamate, sodium lauroyl glutamate, sodium myristoyl glutamate, sodium olive oil acyl glutamate, sodium palmitoyl glutamate, sodium stearoyl glutamate, sodium undecenoyl glutamate, cocoyl methyl β-alanine salt, lauroyl β-alanine salt, lauroyl methyl β-alanine salt, myristoyl β-alanine salt, potassium lauroyl methyl β-alanine, sodium cocoyl alanine, cocoyl Sodium methyl β-alanine and sodium myristoyl methyl β-alanine, palmitoyl glycinate, sodium lauroyl glycinate, sodium cocoyl glycinate, sodium myristoyl glycinate, potassium lauroyl glycinate, potassium cocoyl glycinate, potassium lauroyl sarcosinate, potassium cocoyl sarcosinate, sodium cocoyl sarcosinate, sodium cocoyl sarcosinate, sodium lauroyl sarcosinate, sodium myristoyl sarcosinate, sodium oleoyl sarcosinate, sodium palmitoyl sarcosinate, sodium lauroyl sarcosinate, sodium lauroyl aspartate, and so on. Sodium myristoyl aspartate, sodium cocoyl aspartate, sodium hexanoyl aspartate, disodium lauroyl aspartate, disodium myristoyl aspartate, disodium cocoyl aspartate, disodium hexanoyl aspartate, potassium lauroyl aspartate, potassium myristoyl aspartate, potassium cocoyl aspartate, potassium hexanoyl aspartate, dipotassium lauroyl aspartate, dipotassium myristoyl aspartate, dipotassium cocoyl aspartate, dipotassium hexanoyl aspartate, and mixtures thereof.

[0137] According to a specific embodiment of the present invention, the carboxylic acid or carboxylate anionic surfactant is selected from compounds having the following structures: [Chemical Formula 2] in: Z represents a saturated or unsaturated, straight or branched hydrocarbon-based group containing 8 to 24 carbon atoms, preferably 8 to 22 carbon atoms; X is a hydrogen atom or a methyl group; n is equal to 0 or 1; Y is selected from hydrogen atoms and -CH3, -CH(CH3)2, -CH2CH(CH3)2, -CH(CH3)CH2CH3, -CH2C6H5, -CH2C2H4OH, -CH2OH, -CH(OH)CH3, -(CH2)4NH2, -(CH2)3NHC(NH)NH2, -CH2C(O)O - M + -(CH2)2C(O)OH and -(CH2)2C(O)O - M + The group of the group; and M is a hydrogen atom or a cation, such as sodium, potassium, ammonium, or triethanolamine.

[0138] According to a preferred embodiment, in Equation 2: Z represents a straight chain or branched chain C8-C. 22 Alkyl or alkenyl; X is a hydrogen atom or a methyl group; n equals 0; Y is a hydrogen atom, a -(CH2)2C(O)OH group, or a -(CH2)2C(O)O group. - M + Group; and M is a cation, such as sodium, potassium, ammonium, or triethanolamine.

[0139] According to one specific embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one acylglutamic acid (INCI name: acylglutamic acid) or a salt thereof (acylglutamate salt).

[0140] Preferably, the acylglutamic acid is selected from acylglutamic acids in which the acyl group contains 8 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably 10 to 24 carbon atoms, and even more preferably 12 to 22 carbon atoms, such as lauroylglutamic acid, myristoylglutamic acid, palmitoylglutamic acid, stearoylglutamic acid, benzylglutamic acid, olive oil acylglutamic acid, cocoylglutamic acid, and salts of these acids, especially alkali metal (such as Na, Li, or K, preferably Na or K) salts, alkaline earth metal (such as Mg) salts, or ammonium salts of said acids.

[0141] Preferably, as a C8-C based 30Examples of chain-modified amino acid salts of hydrocarbons include glutamate salts, and in particular dipotassium octanoylglutamate, dipotassium undecenoylglutamate, disodium octanoylglutamate, disodium cocoylglutamate, disodium lauroylglutamate, disodium stearoylglutamate, disodium undecenoylglutamate, potassium octanoylglutamate, potassium cocoylglutamate, potassium lauroylglutamate, potassium myristoylglutamate, potassium stearoylglutamate, potassium undecenoylglutamate, sodium octanoylglutamate, sodium cocoylglutamate, sodium lauroylglutamate, sodium myristoylglutamate, sodium olive oil acylglutamate, sodium palmitoylglutamate, sodium stearoylglutamate, and sodium undecenoylglutamate.

[0142] Preferably, the acylglutamic acid or its salt is selected from lauroylglutamic acid, cocoylglutamic acid, sodium stearoylglutamate, potassium lauroylglutamate, potassium cocoylglutamate, sodium olive oil acylglutamate, and mixtures thereof.

[0143] More preferably, the acylglutamic acid or its salt is sodium stearoylglutamate (INCI name).

[0144] These compounds are marketed by Ajinomoto Co. under the name Amisoft and in particular under the index numbers Amisoft CA, Amisoft LA, Amisoft HS 11 PF, Amisoft MK-11, Amisoft LK-11 and Amisoft CK-11, or alternatively by Corning Co. under the name Eumulgin SG.

[0145] Also mentioned are triethanolamine cocoyl glutamate sold by Ajinomoto under the name Amisoft CT12, and triethanolamine lauroyl glutamate sold by Ajinomoto under the name acyl glutamate LT-12.

[0146] As acylglutamate salts, hydrogenated tallow acylglutamate sodium salt, such as the product sold by Ajinomoto Co. under the index number Acylglutamate HS 11, and hydrogenated tallow glutamate disodium salt, such as the product sold by Ajinomoto Co. under the index number acylglutamate HS-21, can also be mentioned.

[0147] Also mentioned are commercial mixtures of surfactants containing at least one glutamate derivative or a salt of said derivative, such as mixtures of acylglutamate salts, like Amisoft LS-22 sold by Ajinomoto Co., Ltd.

[0148] According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, a monosodium salt of n-stearoyl-L-glutamic acid (INCI name: sodium stearoylglutamate), such as the product sold by Ajinomoto Co., Ltd. under index number Amisoft HS 11 PF, is used.

[0149] Use at least one C8-C based 30 The chain-modified amino acids and their salts of hydrocarbons may be present in the composition in a total amount ranging from 0.01 wt% to 5 wt%, preferably from 0.01 wt% to 2 wt%, more preferably from 0.05 wt% to 1 wt%, even more preferably from 0.1 wt% to 0.8 wt%, and even more preferably from 0.1 wt% to 0.5 wt% relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0150] C 12 -C 24 Saturated fatty alcohols The composition according to the invention may further contain at least one C 12 -C 24 Saturated fatty alcohols.

[0151] According to a specific embodiment of the present invention, C 12 -C 24 Saturated fatty alcohols are linear chains. Preferably, fatty alcohols contain 14 to 22 carbon atoms.

[0152] The fatty alcohols that can be used in the context of this invention may be particularly selected from cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, cetearyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, lauryl alcohol, tridecyl alcohol, pentadecyl alcohol, hexadecyl alcohol, arachidyl alcohol, and betaine alcohol. They are preferably selected from cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, and cetearyl alcohol.

[0153] Cetyl alcohol, most particularly suitable for use in this invention, can be, for example, Ecogreen Oleochemicals under the names Ecool® 16 / 98 F and Ecool® 16 / 98 P, Evonik High Schmidt under the name Tegoalkanol® 16, Corning under the name Lanette® 16, VVF under the name Vegalol® 1698, Oxiteno under the name Alkonat® 1698 P, Emery Oleochemicals under the name Cetyl Alcohol 98% MIN, Godrej Industries under the name Ginol® 16 (98%), Sasol under the name Nacol® 16-98, Kao under the name Kalcol® 6098, and Aegis Chemical under the name Acilol® Those sold in 2016.

[0154] As the most particularly suitable stearyl alcohol for the present invention, those sold, for example, by Evonik High Schmidt under the name Tegoalkanol® 18, by Eco-Green Oil Chemicals under the names Ecool® F and Ecool® 18 / 98 P, by Corning under the name Lanette® 18, by Kao under the name Kalcol® 8098, by E.J. Chemicals under the name Acilol® 18, by Sasol under the name Nacol® 18-98, and by Nihon Yushi under the name NAA® 45.

[0155] As the most particularly suitable cetearyl alcohol for this invention, it can be, for example, Ecorol® 68 / 50 F and Ecorol® 68 / 50 P from Ecolive Oil Chemicals, Lanette® 0 OR and Lanette® 0 OR Flakes from Corning, Alkonat® 1618 C50 P from Oxiteno, Nafol® 16-18 EN from Sasol, Alcohol Cetoestearilico 50 / 50 from Industria Quimica Del Centro, Conol® 30 CK from New Japan Chemical, Cetylstearyl Alcohol 50:50 from Evonik High Schmidt, Kalcol® 6850 from Kao, Vegalol® 1618 (50:50) from VVF, and Ginol® from Godrell Industries. 1618 50:50 OR those being sold.

[0156] As the most particularly suitable benzyl alcohol for the present invention, those sold by BASF under the name Lanette® 22 can be used, for example.

[0157] The composition according to the invention has an α-gel structure, that is, due to the surfactant and C 12 -C 24 The presence of saturated fatty alcohols results in a layered phase.

[0158] Advantageously, C 12 -C 24 Saturated fatty alcohols are present in the composition in an amount ranging from 0.1% to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.2% to 3% by weight, and even more preferably from 0.5% to 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0159] wax The compositions according to the present invention may also contain at least one wax.

[0160] For the purposes of this invention, the term "wax" refers to a deformable or non-deformable lipophilic compound that is solid at ambient temperature (25°C), exhibits a reversible solid / liquid phase change, and has a melting point greater than or equal to 30°C, and can be up to 120°C. In particular, waxes suitable for use in this invention may have a melting point greater than or equal to 60°C, and especially greater than or equal to 70°C.

[0161] The term "lipophilic compound" refers to a compound with an acid value and hydroxyl value of less than 150 mg KOH / g.

[0162] For the purposes of this invention, the melting point corresponds to the temperature of the maximum endothermic peak observed in thermal analysis (DSC), as described in standard ISO 11357-3; 1999. The melting point of a wax can be measured using a differential scanning calorimeter (DSC), such as the calorimeter sold by TA Instruments under the name MDSC 2920, or the calorimeter sold by TA Instruments under the name DSC Q100 with TA UniversalAnalysis software.

[0163] The measurement plan is as follows: A 5 mg wax sample placed in a crucible was subjected to a first temperature ramp from -20°C to 100°C (heating rate of 10°C / min), then cooled from 100°C to -20°C at a cooling rate of 10°C / min, and finally subjected to a second temperature ramp from -20°C to 100°C (heating rate of 5°C / min). During the second temperature ramp, the change in the energy difference absorbed by the empty crucible and the crucible containing the wax sample was measured as a function of temperature. The melting point of the compound is the temperature value corresponding to the peak of the curve representing the change in the energy difference absorbed with temperature.

[0164] Waxes can be hydrocarbon-based waxes, silicone waxes, and / or fluorinated waxes, and can have plant, animal, mineral, and / or synthetic sources.

[0165] The wax may be present in each composition in a total amount ranging from 0.01% to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.1% to 3% by weight, and even more preferably from 0.2% to 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0166] According to one specific embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one plant-derived wax.

[0167] According to a preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one jojoba ester wax.

[0168] Jojoba ester waxes can exist in the unsaturated form of jojoba esters, which can be fully hydrogenated jojoba esters having the following formula: [Chemical Formula 3] in: R 1 It is CH3-(CH2) y Group, y equals 16, 18, 20 or 22.

[0169] Jojoba ester waxes can be obtained by hydrogenation of jojoba ester waxes (jojoba oil) having the following formula: [Chemical Formula 4] Where x and y are equal to 6, 8, 10 or 12.

[0170] Jojoba ester waxes are composed of straight-chain monounsaturated fatty alcohols and monounsaturated fatty acids. The only double bond is located in the middle (position n-9), starting from the methyl terminal group (-CH3) of the corresponding fatty acid or fatty alcohol chain.

[0171] These ester waxes are composed of fatty alcohols and fatty acids having an even number of carbon atoms (primarily 20 and 22 carbon atoms). The resulting materials contain esters with chain lengths of 38, 40, 42, and 44 carbon atoms, with smaller amounts of esters with 36 and 46 carbon atoms. Typical compositions of ester waxes are indicated below.

[0172] [Table 1] Jojoba ester wax can be derived from the seeds of the jojoba plant (Simmondsia chinensis).

[0173] As examples of jojoba ester waxes, one can mention the product sold by International Flora Technologies Ltd under the name Floraesters® 70, and the product sold by Vantage under the name Jojoba Ester-70.

[0174] Advantageously, jojoba ester wax is present in the composition in an amount ranging from 0.1% to 2% by weight and preferably from 0.2% to 0.8% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0175] According to another preferred embodiment, in addition to the jojoba ester mentioned above, the composition according to the invention also contains at least one other hydrocarbon-based wax.

[0176] Examples of hydrocarbon-based waxes may include beeswax, lanolin wax or Chinese insect wax, rice wax, carnauba wax, candelilla wax, esparto grass wax, cork fiber wax, sugarcane wax, Japanese wax, berry wax, lacquer wax and sumac wax, sunflower wax, lignite wax, microcrystalline wax, paraffin wax and terrestrial wax; in particular, polyethylene wax, polymethylene wax, waxes and waxy copolymers obtained by Fischer-Tropsch synthesis, and their esters may be used.

[0177] Beeswax may be specifically mentioned, such as the product sold by Koster Keunen under the name White beeswax BR G889; carnauba wax, such as the product sold by Baerlocher under the name Cerauba T1 Bio; sunflower (Helianthus annuus / sunflower) wax sold by Koster Keunen under the name Sunflower Wax, or mixtures thereof.

[0178] Preferably, the composition of the present invention comprises sunflower (Helianthus annuus / sunflower) seed wax.

[0179] When another hydrocarbon-based wax is present, it is present in the composition in an amount ranging from 0.05% to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.1% to 1% by weight, and more preferably from 0.1% to 0.5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0180] According to a specific embodiment of the invention, the composition comprises a mixture of glyceryl stearate, sodium stearoyl glutamate, cetearyl alcohol, jojoba ester, and sunflower seed wax, having the INCI name cetearyl alcohol (and) jojoba ester (and) glyceryl stearate (and) sodium stearoyl glutamate (and) sunflower seed wax (Helianthus Annus Seed Cera) (and) polyglycerol-3, and is marketed by Gattefosse under the name Emulium® Dolcea MB.

[0181] According to a specific embodiment of the present invention, the composition is an oil-in-water emulsion and comprises: - At least one UV shielding agent; - At least one lipophilic acrylic polymer as previously defined; - At least one type of hard dextran gum; - At least one C 12 -C 24 Saturated fatty alcohols; - At least one type of nonionic surfactant of the alkyl polyglycoside type.

[0182] According to a specific embodiment of the present invention, the composition is an oil-in-water emulsion and comprises: - At least one UV shielding agent; - At least one lipophilic acrylic polymer as previously defined; - At least one type of hard dextran gum; - At least one C 12 -C 24 Saturated fatty alcohols; - At least one C of glycerol 12 -C 24 Fatty acid esters; - At least one carboxylic acid or carboxylate anionic surfactant selected from at least one C8-C based surfactant. 24 Chain-modified amino acids and their salts from hydrocarbons; and - At least one type of wax.

[0183] According to a preferred embodiment of the present invention, the composition is an oil-in-water emulsion and comprises: - At least one UV shielding agent; - At least one lipophilic acrylic polymer as previously defined; - At least one type of hard dextran gum; - At least one C 12 -C 24 Saturated fatty alcohols; - At least one C of glycerol 12 -C 24 Fatty acid esters; - At least one carboxylic acid or carboxylate anionic surfactant selected from at least one C8-C based surfactant. 24 Chain-modified amino acids and their salts from hydrocarbons; and - At least one jojoba ester wax.

[0184] Preferably, the composition comprises: - At least one UV shielding agent; - At least one lipophilic acrylic polymer as previously defined; - At least one type of hard dextran gum; - At least one C 12 -C 24 Saturated fatty alcohols; - At least one C of glycerol 12-C 24 Fatty acid esters; - At least one acylglutamic acid (INCI name: acylglutamic acid) or a salt thereof (acylglutamate salt), wherein the acyl group is C. 10 -C 30 C is preferred 12 -C 22 Acyl group; and - At least one jojoba ester wax.

[0185] According to another specific embodiment of the present invention, the composition is an oil-in-water emulsion and comprises: - At least one UV shielding agent; - At least one lipophilic acrylic polymer as previously defined; - At least one type of hard dextran gum; - At least one C 12 -C 24 Saturated fatty alcohols; - At least one C of glycerol 12 -C 24 Fatty acid esters; - At least one carboxylic acid or carboxylate anionic surfactant selected from at least one C8-C based surfactant. 24 Chain-modified amino acids and their salts from hydrocarbons; - At least one jojoba ester wax; and - At least one type of sunflower (Helianthus annuus / sunflower) seed wax.

[0186] Preferably, the composition comprises: - At least one UV shielding agent; - At least one lipophilic acrylic polymer as previously defined; - At least one type of hard dextran gum; - At least one C 12 -C 24 Saturated fatty alcohols; - At least one C of glycerol 12 -C 24 Fatty acid esters; - At least one acylglutamic acid (INCI name: acylglutamic acid) or a salt thereof (acylglutamate salt), wherein the acyl group is C. 10 -C 30 C is preferred 12 -C 22 Acyl group; - At least one jojoba ester wax; and - At least one type of sunflower (Helianthus annuus / sunflower) seed wax.

[0187] According to a particularly preferred embodiment, the present invention provides a fluid composition for skin care in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion, the fluid composition comprising, by weight relative to the total weight of the composition: (i) at least one UV shielding agent; (ii) 0.05% to 10% by weight of lipophilic acrylic polymers containing monomer units of formula (A) and formula (B): [Chemical Formula 1] in: R1 is independently selected from alkyl or alkenyl groups in each case. and At least 60% by weight of the R1 groups are selected from stearyl and benzyl groups, and the weight percentage is relative to the sum of all R1 groups present in the polymer. and The weight ratio of the sum of all hydroxyethyl acrylate units to the sum of all acrylate units bearing the R1 group ranges from 1:30 to 1:1. The total sum of units A and B is at least 95% by weight relative to the total weight of the polymer. (iii) At least one type of hard dextran gum; (iv) 0.2% to 0.8% by weight of at least one jojoba ester wax of formula 3: [Chemical Formula 3] Where R 1 It is CH3- (CH2) y -, y is 16, 18, 20 or 22; (v) 0.5% to 2% by weight of at least one C14- group selected from cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, and cetearyl alcohol. 12 -C 24 Saturated fatty alcohols; (vi) 0.2% to 0.8% by weight of at least one C of glycerol selected from glyceryl laurate, glyceryl oleate, glyceryl stearate, glyceryl palmitate, and mixtures thereof. 12 -C 24 Fatty acid esters; and (vii) 0.1% to 0.5% by weight of at least one surfactant selected from acylglutamic acid (INCI name: acylglutamic acid) and its salt (acylglutamate), wherein the acyl group is C 10 -C30 C is preferred 12 -C 22 Acyl group; even more preferably, it is stearyl group.

[0188] Fat phase The compositions according to the invention may contain at least one fatty phase.

[0189] The fatty phase can consist of all fatty substances conventionally used in the fields of cosmetics or dermatology; it particularly includes waxes as previously defined and may contain at least one oil. The fatty phase also includes lipophilic masking agents present in the compositions according to the invention, as well as fatty alcohols.

[0190] The term "oil" is intended to refer to any fatty substance that is in liquid form at ambient temperature (20°C–25°C) and atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg). These oils can be volatile or non-volatile.

[0191] For the purposes of this invention, the term "volatile oil" refers to an oil that evaporates within less than one hour upon contact with skin or keratin fibers at ambient temperature and atmospheric pressure. The volatile oil of this invention is a volatile cosmetic oil that is liquid at ambient temperature and has a non-zero vapor pressure at ambient temperature and atmospheric pressure, specifically in the range of 0.13 Pa to 40,000 Pa (10). -3 (up to 300 mmHg), particularly the range of 1.3 Pa to 13,000 Pa (0.01 to 100 mmHg) and even more particularly the range of 1.3 Pa to 1300 Pa (0.01 to 10 mmHg).

[0192] The term "non-volatile oil" is intended to refer to oils that remain on skin or keratin fibers for at least several hours at ambient temperature and atmospheric pressure, and particularly have a viscosity of less than 10 ppm. -3 Oil with a vapor pressure of mmHg (0.13 Pa).

[0193] For the purposes of this invention, the term "hydrocarbon-based oil" means any oil that primarily comprises carbon and hydrogen atoms and optionally one or more heteroatoms, particularly nitrogen and oxygen. Thus, these oils may specifically contain one or more ester, ether, fluorine, carboxylic acid, and / or alcohol groups.

[0194] The term "silicone oil" is intended to refer to an oil that contains at least one silicon atom and, in particular, at least one Si-O group.

[0195] As a non-volatile hydrocarbon-based oil that can be used according to the present invention, it is particularly worth mentioning that: (i) Hydrocarbon-based oils of plant origin, such as triglycerides, which are typically triesters of fatty acids and glycerol, wherein the fatty acids may have C4 to C5 esters.24 Different chain lengths, which may be saturated or unsaturated and straight or branched; these oils are particularly wheat germ oil, sunflower oil, grapeseed oil, sesame oil, corn oil, apricot oil, castor oil, shea butter, avocado oil, olive oil, soybean oil, sweet almond oil, palm oil, rapeseed oil, cottonseed oil, hazelnut oil, macadamia nut oil, jojoba oil, alfalfa oil, red kuri squash oil, pumpkin oil, blackcurrant oil, evening primrose oil, millet oil, barley oil, quinoa oil, rye oil, safflower oil, candelilla oil, passion fruit oil, or musk rose oil; or triglycerides that can replace dioctanoic acid / capric acid, such as those sold by Stearinerie Dubois or those sold by Dinamit Nobel under the names Miglyol 810®, 812®, and 818®; (ii) Synthetic ethers having 10 to 40 carbon atoms; (iii) Straight-chain or branched hydrocarbons of mineral or synthetic origin, such as liquid petroleum, polydecene, hydrogenated polyisobutylene such as parleam, squalane and mixtures thereof; (iv) Synthetic esters, such as oils of the formula RCOOR', where R represents a straight-chain or branched fatty acid residue containing 1 to 40 carbon atoms, and R' represents a hydrocarbon-based chain containing 1 to 40 carbon atoms, particularly a branched hydrocarbon-based chain, provided that R + R' ≥ 10, such as purcellin oil (cetearyl octanoate), isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, C benzoate, etc. 12 -C 15 Alkyl esters (such as those marketed by Witco under the trade names Finsolv TN® or Witconol TN®, or by Evonik High Schmidt under the trade name Tegosoft TN®), 2-ethylphenyl benzoate (such as commercial products marketed by ISP under the name X-Tend 226®), isopropyl lanolinate, hexyl laurate, diisopropyl adipate, isononyl isononanoate, oleyl erucate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, isostearate, diisopropyl sebacate (such as products marketed by Dub Sterling under the name Dub Dis), octanoates, decanoates, or ricinoleates of alcohols or polyols, such as propylene glycol dioctanoate; hydroxylated esters, such as isostearate lactate or diisostearate malate; and pentaerythritol esters; citrates or tartrates, such as di(linear C) 12 -C 13 Alkyl tartrates, such as those marketed by Enichem Augusta Industriale under the name Cosmacol ETI®, and also di(linear C) tartrates. 14 -C15 Alkyl tartrates, such as those sold by the same company under the name Cosmacol ETL®; acetates; (v) Fatty alcohols that are liquid at ambient temperature and have branched and / or unsaturated carbon chains containing 12 to 26 carbon atoms, such as octyldodecanol, isostearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, 2-hexyldecanol, 2-butyloctanol, or 2-undecylpentadecanol. (vi) Carbonates, such as dioctyl carbonate, as in products sold by Corning under the name Cetiol CC®; and its mixtures.

[0196] Among the non-volatile hydrocarbon-based oils that can be used according to the invention, triglycerides, and especially caprylic / capric triglycerides, synthetic esters, and especially diisopropyl adipate, diisopropyl sebacate, isopropyl palmitate, dioctyl carbonate, isononyl isononanoate, oleyl erucic acid, and C-benzoic acid are more particularly preferred. 12 -C 15 Alkyl esters, 2-ethylphenyl benzoate, and fatty alcohols, particularly octyldodecyl alcohol. Preferably, non-volatile hydrocarbon-based oils include diisopropyl diisopropyl sebacate, diisopropyl sebacate, isopropyl palmitate, and dioctyl carbonate.

[0197] As for volatile hydrocarbon-based oils that can be used according to the invention, those containing 8 to 16 carbon atoms, and especially branched C8-C, are particularly noteworthy. 16 Alkane-based hydrocarbon oils, such as petroleum-derived C8-C hydrocarbons. 16 Isoalkanes (also known as isoalkanes), such as isododecane (also known as 2,2,4,4,6-pentamethylheptane), isodecane or isohexadecane, oils sold under the trade names Isopar or Permethyl, branched C8-C... 16 Esters, isohexyl neopentanoate and mixtures thereof.

[0198] Also mentioned are the alkanes (mixtures of different alkanes differing by at least one carbon atom) described in Corning's patent applications WO 2007 / 068 371 or WO 2008 / 155 059. These alkanes are obtained from fatty alcohols, which themselves are obtained from coconut kernel oil or palm oil. Also mentioned are the n-undecane (C16) obtained in Examples 1 and 2 of Corning's application WO 2008 / 155 059. 11 ) and n-tridecane (C 13 A mixture of [various compounds]. Also mentioned may be n-dodecane (C[various compounds]) sold by Sasol under index numbers Parafol 12-97 and Parafol 14-97®, respectively. 12 ) and n-tetradecane (C 14 ), and its mixtures.

[0199] Other volatile hydrocarbon-based oils, such as petroleum distillates, may also be used, particularly those marketed by Shell under the name Shell Solt®. According to one embodiment, the volatile solvent is selected from volatile hydrocarbon-based oils having 8 to 16 carbon atoms, as well as mixtures thereof.

[0200] Non-volatile silicone oils may be specifically selected from non-volatile polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS), polydimethylsiloxanes containing alkyl or alkoxy groups (these groups are side-attached and / or at the end of the polysiloxane chain and each has 2 to 24 carbon atoms), or phenylened polysiloxanes such as phenyl polytrimethylsiloxane, phenyl polydimethylsiloxane, phenyl(trimethylsiloxy)diphenylsiloxane, diphenyl polydimethylsiloxane, diphenyl(methyldiphenyl)trisiloxane, or (2-phenylethyl)trimethylsiloxysilicate.

[0201] Volatile silicone oils that may be mentioned include, for example, volatile linear or cyclic silicone oils, particularly those with a viscosity ≤ 8 centiliters (8 × 10⁻⁶). -6 m 2 (s) and particularly those containing 2 to 7 silicon atoms, these silicones optionally comprising alkyl or alkoxy groups containing 1 to 10 carbon atoms. Octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, dodecylcyclohexasiloxane, heptamethylhexyltrisiloxane, heptamethyloctyltrisiloxane, hexamethyldisiloxane, octamethyltrisiloxane, decamethyltetrasiloxane, dodecylpentasiloxane, and mixtures thereof are particularly mentioned as volatile silicone oils that can be used in this invention.

[0202] Volatile straight-chain alkyl trisiloxane oils can also be mentioned, such as: 3-Butyl-1,1,1,3,5,5,5-heptamethyltrisiloxane, 3-Propyl-1,1,1,3,5,5,5-heptamethyltrisiloxane, and 3-Ethyl-1,1,1,3,5,5,5-heptamethyltrisiloxane.

[0203] Volatile fluorinated oils, such as nonafluoromethoxybutane, nonafluoromethoxybutane, decafluoropentane, tetradecylfluorohexane, dodecafluoropentane, and mixtures thereof, can also be used.

[0204] The fatty phase according to the invention may additionally contain other fatty substances that are mixed with or dissolved in the oil.

[0205] Another fatty substance that can exist in the oil phase can be, for example: - Fatty acids, such as fatty acids containing 8 to 30 carbon atoms that are different from fatty chain amino acids as defined above, such as stearic acid, lauric acid, palmitic acid, and oleic acid; preferably, C 12 -C 22 Higher fatty acids, such as oleic acid, linoleic acid, or linolenic acid; - Gum, selected from silicone gum (polydimethylsiloxane); - Paste-like compounds, such as polymeric or nonpolymeric silicone compounds, esters of glycerol oligomers, arachidonic acid propionate, fatty acid triglycerides and their derivatives; - and its mixtures.

[0206] Preferably, the entire aliphatic phase (including all lipophilic substances of the composition that are soluble in this same phase, including lipophilic masking agents) accounts for 5% to 95% by weight, and more preferably 10% to 80% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0207] Aqueous phase The composition according to the invention may contain at least one aqueous phase.

[0208] The aqueous phase contains water and optionally other water-soluble or water-miscible organic solvents.

[0209] The aqueous phase suitable for use in this invention may include, for example, water selected from natural springs, such as water from La Roche-Posay, water from Vittel, water from Saint-Gervais Mont-Blanc, or water from Vichy, or eau de toilette.

[0210] Suitable water-soluble or water-miscible solvents for use in this invention include short-chain monohydric alcohols, such as C1-C4 monohydric alcohols, like ethanol or isopropanol; dihydric or polyhydric alcohols, such as ethylene glycol, 1,2-propanediol, 1,3-butanediol, hexanediol, diethylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, 2-ethoxyethanol, diethylene glycol monomethyl ether, triethylene glycol monomethyl ether, glycerol, and sorbitol, and mixtures thereof.

[0211] According to a specific embodiment of the present invention, the composition comprises less than 10% by weight of glycerol in the total weight of the composition.

[0212] According to a particular form of the invention, the entire aqueous phase (including all hydrophilic substances of the composition that are soluble in the same phase) accounts for 5% to 95% by weight, and preferably 10% to 80% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0213] According to specific embodiments, the pH of the composition according to the present invention is greater than or equal to 6.

[0214] According to a preferred embodiment, the pH of the composition according to the invention is between 6.0 and 11.0. Preferably, the pH of the composition according to the invention is between 6.0 and 9.0. Even more preferably, the pH of the composition according to the invention is between 6.0 and 7.8.

[0215] The pH of the composition according to the invention can be measured at ambient temperature (25°C) and atmospheric pressure using a Mettler Toledo MPC227, SevenEasy pH or SevenGo SG2 pH meter.

[0216] Cosmetic active ingredients The compositions of the present invention may contain at least one cosmetic surfactant.

[0217] Examples of cosmetic active agents include humectants such as protein hydrolysates, polyglycerol-3; natural extracts; vitamins and their derivatives (especially their esters), and mixtures thereof; urea; caffeine; salicylic acid and its derivatives; alpha-hydroxy acids and their derivatives; retinoids; extracts of algae, fungi, plants, yeasts and bacteria; enzymes; firming agents; agents that act on microcirculation, and mixtures thereof.

[0218] According to one specific embodiment of the invention, the composition contains at least one humectant. It is preferably polyglycerol-3.

[0219] Those skilled in the art can readily adjust the amount of cosmetic active ingredients according to the end use of the composition according to the invention.

[0220] Other adjuvants or additives The compositions of the present invention may also contain conventional cosmetic adjuvants or additives, such as fragrances, chelating agents (e.g., tetrasodium glutamate diacetate and disodium EDTA), preservatives (e.g., chlorphenesin and phenoxyethanol), bactericides, surfactants, additional co-emulsifiers and / or thickeners (such as acryloyl dimethyl taurate homopolymers or acrylamide / acryloyl dimethyl taurate copolymers, acrylates / acrylic acid C... 10 - 30 Alkyl ester cross-linked polymer copolymers, hydroxypropyl guar gum, pH adjusters (e.g., triethanolamine, citric acid, and sodium hydroxide), fillers (e.g., aluminum octenyl succinate and polymethylsilsesquioxane), and mixtures thereof.

[0221] Those skilled in the art may choose the amount of additional adjuvants or additives in such a manner as not to harm the end use of the composition according to the invention.

[0222] Example The following examples are for illustrative purposes only and are not intended to be limiting. In these examples, the amounts of the compositional components are given as a percentage of the weight of the starting material or active material relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0223] Scheme for evaluating shielding effectiveness In vitro: The “in vitro” method, as described by M. Pissavini et al. in the International Journal of Cosmetic Science, 40, 263-268 (2018), determines the sun protection factor (SPF) based on the initial absorbance.

[0224] According to the ISO 24443:2012 (French version) protocol, the in vitro UVA protection factor (UVAPF) of sunscreen products against UVA radiation is mathematically calculated using in vitro spectral modeling.

[0225] Each composition was obtained as a uniform and flat deposit at 1 mg / cm³. 2 The composition was applied in proportion to six coarse PMMA slabs. An automated robot was used to apply each composition to three slabs (HD6, molded granular slabs) and three slabs (SB6, sandy granular slabs) with a flat and uniform motion. The slabs were weighed before and after application. Once application to all six slabs was complete, the slabs were left to stand in the dark at 25°C for 30 minutes in Thermo-Masters. Measurements were taken using a UV-1000S spectrophotometer from Lanfei Optics. Nine measurements were performed on each slab, and the results were then analyzed using an Excel spreadsheet providing the SPF and PPD values ​​for the measured compositions.

[0226] Scheme for evaluating viscosity Viscosity was evaluated at 25°C using a Rheomat RM200 viscometer (Lamy). Due to the fluid nature of the formula, an MSR-2 rotor was used. The viscometer was calibrated, and then the rotor was introduced into the product and rotated at 200 rpm for 10 minutes. Viscosity was measured after 10 minutes.

[0227] Protocol for assessing stability of compositions of the invention Each composition was incubated in a 30 ml flask at 55°C for one week. After one week, the compositions were removed and their appearance was analyzed macroscopically and microscopically.

[0228] Example 5 - Compositions 1 to 4 Prepare the following composition (amount of active material).

[0229] [Table 2] Preparation method Weigh each phase separately. Heat phase A1 to 80°C and phase B1 to 80°C. When these phases reach 80°C, add the gelling agent. Place phase A1 in a beaker below the ultra turrax turbine and actuate the turbine at position 4 (device speed range 3000 to 25000 rpm), then agitate with the turbine until the gelling agent is completely dispersed. Emulsify by adding phase B1 (still under turbine mixing at speed 4) to phase A1 until the formulation is homogeneous. Reduce the speed to 2 and quickly add phase C. After this introduction, quickly stop the turbine. Cooling the formulation to 25°C is done using a deflocculator in a cooling bath containing cold water and ice.

[0230] Results obtained The results obtained are as follows: [Table 3] [Table 4] These results indicate that compositions 1 and 4 according to the invention provide better sun protection while maintaining good stability compared to comparative composition 2, in which the semi-crystalline polymer has been replaced by synthetic wax, and comparative composition 3, in which the sclerosing gum has been replaced by xanthan gum.

Claims

1. A composition, in particular a cosmetic or dermatological composition, comprising: - at least one UV screening agent; - at least one semi-crystalline polymer containing at least one hydrocarbyl acrylate chain, preferably a copolymer obtained by copolymerization of monomers selected from alkyl acrylates and alkyl methacrylates with a hydrophilic monomer, preferably hydroxyethyl (meth)acrylate, and mixtures thereof; and - at least one scleroglucan gum.

2. The composition according to claim 1, in the form of an emulsion, preferably in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion.

3. The composition according to any one of claims 1 and 2, wherein, The UV screening agent is selected from organic UV screening agents, such as water-soluble organic UV screening agents, lipid-soluble organic UV screening agents and insoluble organic UV screening agents, inorganic UV screening agents and mixtures thereof, the UV screening agent being preferably selected from organic UV screening agents.

4. The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 3, wherein, The organic UV screening agent is selected from lipid-soluble organic UV screening agents, preferably from dibenzoylmethane compounds, salicylic acid compounds, beta, beta-diphenyl acrylate compounds, benzophenone compounds, phenylbenzotriazole compounds, triazine compounds and mixtures thereof, and more preferably from homosalate, ethylhexyl salicylate, drometrizole trisiloxane, bis- ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine, octocrylene, butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane, ethylhexyl triazone, 2-(4-diethylamino-2-hydroxybenzoyl)benzoic acid n-hexyl ester, diethylhexyl butamido triazone and mixtures thereof.

5. The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 4, comprising bis- ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine.

6. The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 5, wherein, The semi-crystalline polymer containing at least one hydrocarbyl acrylate chain is selected from lipophilic polymers comprising monomeric units of formula (A) and formula (B): wherein: R1is selected from alkyl or alkenyl groups; wherein at least 60% by weight of the groups R1are groups selected from stearyl and behenyl groups, the weight percentage being relative to the sum of all the groups R1present in the polymer; the weight ratio of the sum of all the hydroxyethyl acrylate units to the sum of all the acrylate units bearing the groups R1ranges from 1 : 30 to 1 : 1 ; and the sum of the total units A and B is at least 95% by weight relative to the total weight of the polymer; and the polymer has a number average molecular weight Mn ranging from 2000 to 9000 g / mol.

7. The composition of claim 6, wherein, In the lipophilic acrylic polymer, R1consists of an alkyl group, preferably a C 16 -C 22 alkyl group, and more preferably a behenyl or stearyl group.

8. The composition according to any one of claims 6 and 7, wherein, In the lipophilic acrylic polymer, at least 70% by weight, preferably at least 80% by weight, more preferably at least 90% by weight of the groups R1are behenyl or stearyl groups.

9. The composition according to any one of claims 6 to 8, wherein, In the lipophilic acrylic polymer, all the groups R1are stearyl or behenyl groups.

10. The composition according to any one of claims 6 to 9, wherein, In the lipophilic acrylic polymer, the weight ratio of the sum of all the hydroxyethyl acrylate units to the sum of all the acrylate units bearing the groups R1ranges from 1 : 15 to 1 : 1 and preferably ranges from 1 : 10 to 1 :

4.

11. The composition according to any one of claims 6 to 10, wherein, The semi-crystalline polymer has a number average molecular weight Mn ranging from 5000 to 9000 g / mol.

12. The composition according to any one of claims 6 to 11, wherein, said semi-crystalline polymer having a melting point ranging from 40°C to 70°C, and preferably ranging from 45°C to 67°C.

13. The composition according to any one of claims 6 to 12, wherein, in said lipophilic acrylic polymer, at least 60% by weight of said groups R1 are stearyl groups and said polymer has a melting point ranging from 40°C to 60°C, and preferably ranging from 45°C to 55°C.

14. The composition according to any one of claims 6 to 12, wherein, in said lipophilic acrylic polymer, at least 60% by weight of said groups R1 are behenyl groups and said polymer has a melting point ranging from 60°C to 70°C, and preferably ranging from 63°C to 67°C.

15. Composition according to one of claims 1 to 14, comprising at least one emulsifier.

16. The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 15, comprising at least one or more alkyl polyglycoside type nonionic emulsifiers, said nonionic emulsifier preferably selected from compounds having the following general formula: R1O-(R2O) t -(G) v ,in: - R1 represents a linear or branched alkyl or alkenyl group comprising from 6 to 24 carbon atoms and especially from 8 to 18 carbon atoms, or an alkylphenyl group whose linear or branched alkyl group comprises from 6 to 24 carbon atoms and especially from 8 to 18 carbon atoms; - R2 represents an alkylene group comprising from 2 to 4 carbon atoms; - G represents a saccharide unit comprising from 5 to 6 carbon atoms; - t denotes a value ranging from 0 to 10 and preferably from 0 to 4; - v denotes a value ranging from 1 to 15 and preferably from 1 to 4.

17. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 16, comprising: - at least one C2-C 24 C2-C4alkyl of the polyol 12 - C 24 fatty acid ester, preferably at least one C 16 - C 18 fatty acid ester; and - at least one carboxylic acid or carboxylate anion surfactant selected from the group consisting of carboxylic acids and salts thereof having at least one C8-C 30 , preferably C8-C 24 hydrocarbon modified amino acids and salts thereof.

18. The composition of claim 17, wherein, said C2-C 24 C2-C4alkyl of the polyol 12 -C 24 The fatty acid esters are selected from fatty acid esters of glycerol; they are preferably selected from glyceryl laurate, glyceryl oleate, glyceryl stearate, glyceryl palmitate, and mixtures thereof.

19. The composition of any one of claims 17 and 18, wherein, said carboxylic acid or carboxylate anionic surfactant is chosen from compounds having the following structure: [Chemical Formula 2] Z represents a linear or branched C8-C 22 alkyl or alkenyl group; X is a hydrogen atom or a methyl group; n is equal to 0 or 1 ; Y is a hydrogen atom, a -(CH2)2C(O)OH group or a -(CH2)2C(O)O - M + group; and M is a hydrogen atom or a cation, such as sodium, potassium, ammonium or triethanolamine.

20. The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 19, comprising at least one C 12 -C 24 saturated fatty alcohols, preferably selected from cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, cetearyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, lauryl alcohol, tridecyl alcohol, pentadecyl alcohol, hexadecyl alcohol, arachidyl alcohol and behenyl alcohol, preferably behenyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol and cetearyl alcohol.

21. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 20, comprising at least one wax, in particular at least one jojoba ester wax, said wax preferably being present in an amount ranging from 0.1% to 2% by weight, preferably from 0.2% to 0.8% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

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