Compacted powder having powdered phase, hydrophilic gelling agent, organopolysiloxane elastomer gel, non-ionic surfactant having HLB < = 8.0, lysophospholipid and non-volatile oil

Abstract

The present invention relates to a composition in the form of a compacted powder comprising at least: a) a powdered phase in an amount greater than or equal to 35% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition; b) at least one hydrophilic gelling agent; and c) at least one organopolysiloxane elastomer; and d) at least one emulsifying system comprising: i) at least one nonionic surfactant having an HLB value of less than or equal to 8 at 25 DEG C, and ii) at least one lysophospholipid; and e) at least one non-volatile oil; the composition is obtained from an intermediate composition comprising, in addition to the components a), b), c), d) and e), water in a content ranging from 30% to 60% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, the method comprising at least the following steps: 1) injecting the intermediate composition into a mould, the injection step preferably passes through the base of the mold, and 2) removing water from the intermediate composition, the removing preferably being at least partially contemporaneous with the injection step.

Description

[0001] This invention relates to a solid cosmetic and / or care cosmetic composition for keratin materials in the form of a compacted powder, the cosmetic composition comprising, particularly in a physiologically acceptable medium, at least:

[0002] a) A powdered phase, comprising 35% or more by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0003] b) At least one non-volatile oil, and

[0004] c) At least one organopolysiloxane elastomer in gel form, the gel comprising an elastomeric organopolysiloxane contained in at least one hydrocarbon-based oil and / or a silicone oil, and

[0005] d) At least one emulsification system, the at least one emulsification system comprising:

[0006] i) At least one nonionic surfactant having an HLB value of less than or equal to 8.0 at 25°C, and

[0007] ii) at least one lysophospholipid; and

[0008] e) At least one hydrophilic gelling agent;

[0009] The compacted powder is prepared by a water-based wet process from an intermediate composition that, in addition to components a), b), c), d), and e), contains 30% to 60% by weight of water relative to the total weight of the intermediate composition (“water-based wet process”).

[0010] The present invention also relates to an intermediate composition for preparing such a cosmetic composition, a method for manufacturing the cosmetic composition, and a method for applying the cosmetic composition to the skin.

[0011] Skin care and / or cosmetic compositions are often used to give skin (such as the face) an attractive color, and also to conceal skin imperfections (such as redness, marks, fine lines and wrinkles).

[0012] The primary functions of these powders are to impart color, a matte finish, and, for those specifically designed for use on facial skin, to enhance the staying power of foundation or, when used alone, to provide coverage (foundation powder, eyeshadow, or face powder). These properties are particularly appreciated by users for their lightness, softness, non-stickiness, and non-greasy feel.

[0013] Generally, these compositions typically combine a predominantly powdered phase with a binder phase that is usually characterized by a liquid fatty phase. The powdered phase is essentially formed by fillers combined with pigments, the amounts of which are modified to provide the desired cosmetic effect, typically a coloring effect.

[0014] To obtain a composition in solid, compacted form, it is known from the prior art to use compacted cosmetic powders formed from a mixture of powder and fatty binder, which are shaped, for example, by compression.

[0015] However, these compacted powders are particularly prone to breakage. Therefore, as the percentage of pigment in a product increases, its manufacturing and compaction become complex, or even impossible to perform at an industrial level due to quality and productivity requirements. Furthermore, the large amount of powdery phase in compacted powders does not impart satisfactory sensory properties when the powder is removed from its packaging and / or applied to the skin surface to be cosmeticized. Additionally, it is difficult for formulation designers to obtain products with good staying power on the skin. To overcome these drawbacks, if the amount of fatty binder is increased, the composition tends to wax, i.e., harden during use to the point of being unusable.

[0016] Among the qualities sought in compacted cosmetic powders, the following can be mentioned:

[0017] - Good cohesiveness and homogenization of the composition,

[0018] - Good impact strength,

[0019] - Good texture,

[0020] - Appropriate hardness,

[0021] - Good adhesion to the skin,

[0022] - Good availability, regardless of the applicator (as far as sufficient product quantity is required);

[0023] - Comfortable application, without causing dry skin.

[0024] - Good powder retention

[0025] - Good sensory properties when in use

[0026] - Good sensory properties when the product is applied.

[0027] In the prior art, particularly in patents EP2640343B1, EP2640342B1, EP2773428B1, FR2982153B1, and FR2985181B1, the known practice is to manufacture such compacted powders in a "water-based wet process" for injecting one or more powders of a given hue into corresponding molds or cups, using an aqueous intermediate composition comprising 30% to 60% by weight of water, a powdered phase, a hydrophilic gelling agent, an organopolysiloxane elastomer, an emulsion system, and at least one non-volatile oil. The aqueous and oily intermediate composition fluidizes the powder and forms a slurry, which is shaped by injection into a mold or cup, and then the aqueous phase is removed, particularly by placing the composition under vacuum during the injection step, followed by oven drying to obtain the final compacted powder.

[0028] However, some of these formulations are not entirely satisfactory when it comes to taking the powder from its packaging (dipping) and depositing the product onto the skin ("release") – especially when using certain applicators (such as sponge applicators and brushes).

[0029] Therefore, there remains a need to produce novel compacted cosmetic powders for the care and / or makeup of keratin materials such as skin, which are obtained via a water-based wet process and offer improved pick-up and application compared to compacted powders known in the prior art, regardless of the applicator (especially a brush).

[0030] The applicant unexpectedly discovered that this objective is achieved by a solid composition in the form of a compacted powder, which is particularly suitable for coating keratin materials, and more particularly for cosmetic and / or skin care of keratin materials, especially containing a physiologically acceptable medium and at least containing:

[0031] a) A powdered phase, comprising 35% or more by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0032] b) At least one non-volatile oil, and

[0033] c) At least one organopolysiloxane elastomer in gel form, the gel comprising an elastomeric organopolysiloxane contained in at least one hydrocarbon-based oil and / or a silicone oil, and

[0034] d) At least one emulsification system, the at least one emulsification system comprising:

[0035] i) At least one nonionic surfactant having an HLB value of less than or equal to 8.0 at 25°C, and

[0036] ii) at least one lysophospholipid; and

[0037] e) At least one hydrophilic gelling agent;

[0038] The composition is obtained from an intermediate composition by a method comprising, in addition to components a), b), c), d), and e), water in an amount ranging from 30% to 60% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, wherein the method comprises at least the following steps:

[0039] 1) The intermediate composition is injected into a mold, preferably via the base of the mold, and

[0040] 2) Removing the aqueous phase from the intermediate composition, preferably at least partially simultaneously with the injection step.

[0041] Regardless of hue, the compacted powder according to the invention has a pleasing creamy texture, good cohesiveness and homogenization, good sensory properties, good impact strength, and is easy to pick up and apply to keratinous materials such as skin (regardless of the applicator and especially when using a brush).

[0042] This discovery forms the basis of this invention.

[0043] Therefore, the present invention relates to a solid composition in the form of a compacted powder, which is particularly used for coating keratin materials, and more particularly for cosmetic and / or skin care of keratin materials, especially containing a physiologically acceptable medium and at least containing:

[0044] a) A powdered phase, comprising 35% or more by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0045] b) At least one non-volatile oil, and

[0046] c) At least one organopolysiloxane elastomer in gel form, the gel comprising an elastomeric organopolysiloxane contained in at least one hydrocarbon-based oil and / or a silicone oil, and

[0047] d) At least one emulsification system, the at least one emulsification system comprising:

[0048] i) At least one nonionic surfactant having an HLB value of less than or equal to 8.0 at 25°C, and

[0049] ii) at least one lysophospholipid; and

[0050] e) At least one hydrophilic gelling agent;

[0051] The composition is obtained from an intermediate composition by a method comprising, in addition to components a), b), c), d), and e), water in an amount ranging from 30% to 60% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, wherein the method comprises at least the following steps:

[0052] 1) The intermediate composition is injected into a mold, preferably via the base of the mold, and

[0053] 2) Removing the aqueous phase from the intermediate composition, preferably at least partially simultaneously with the injection step.

[0054] The present invention also relates to an intermediate composition comprising, in addition to components a), b), c), d), and e), water in an amount ranging from 30% to 60% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0055] The present invention also relates to a method for coating keratin materials, and more particularly for cosmetic and / or care of keratin materials such as skin, characterized in that the method comprises applying a composition as previously defined to the keratin material.

[0056] definition

[0057] In the context of this invention, the term "keratin material" specifically refers to skin (of the body, face, periocular area, or eyelids).

[0058] The term “physiologically acceptable” means that it is compatible with skin and / or its coverings, has a pleasant color, smell and feel, and does not cause any unacceptable discomfort (tingling or tightness) that would easily prevent a consumer from using the composition.

[0059] For the purposes of this invention, the following definitions apply:

[0060] - "Solid" means the composition is solid at room temperature (25°C) and at atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg or 10 rpm). 5 The composition is in a state of high viscosity (Pa) and retains its shape during storage. Unlike a "fluid" composition, it does not flow under its own weight. Advantageously, it is characterized by the hardness defined below.

[0061] - "Compacted powder" refers to a block of product whose cohesiveness is at least partially provided by compaction or preferably pressing during the manufacturing process. In particular, when performing the Zwick measurement, this hardness is measured by a truncated measuring tip, and a measuring force is applied to the test sample.

[0062] The tip is inserted into the sample, and a hardness tester measures its displacement into the powder. This displacement is then converted to Shore A hardness units.

[0063] The composition according to the invention preferably contains less than 3.0% by weight and more preferably less than 2.0% by weight of water relative to the total weight of the composition, or even contains no water.

[0064] The compositions according to the invention advantageously have a solids content of 90.0% or more, preferably 95.0%, or even 97.0%.

[0065] For the purposes of this invention, the term "solid content" indicates the content of non-volatile substances.

[0066] The amount of solids content (abbreviated as SC) of the composition according to the invention is measured using a potentiometer according to method 19003-01.

[0067] Calculate the solids content as follows:

[0068]

[0069] powder phase

[0070] The solid composition according to the invention has a content of powdered phase of greater than or equal to 35.0% by weight, particularly greater than or equal to 40.0% by weight, more particularly ranging from 50% to 80% by weight, and even more preferably from 60% to 75% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0071] The powdered phase preferably contains at least one filler, and more preferably at least one filler and at least one granular dye.

[0072] filler

[0073] The term "filler" should be understood to mean any form of colorless or white solid particles that are insoluble and dispersed in the composition medium. They are inherently mineral or organic, and they enable the composition to impart softness, matte finish, and cosmetic uniformity.

[0074] The fillers used in the compositions of the present invention are selected from mineral fillers, organic fillers, and mixtures thereof.

[0075] The filler used in the compositions of the present invention is preferably present in the composition at a content of 30% to 80% by weight, more preferably 35% to 50% by weight, relative to the total weight of the compositions of the present invention.

[0076] Among the mineral fillers that can be used in the compositions according to the invention are talc; natural mica; synthetic mica such as fluorophlogopite; silica; magnesium aluminum silicate; kaolin; bentonite; calcium carbonate; magnesium bicarbonate; hydroxyapatite; boron nitride; hollow silica microspheres (silica beads from Maprecos); silica-based fillers, such as Aerosil 200® or Aerosil 300®, Sunsphere H-33® and Sunsphere H-51® sold by Asahi Glass, and Chemicelen® sold by Asahi Chemical; composites of silica and titanium dioxide, such as the TSG® series sold by Nippon Sheet Glass; perlite powder; and mixtures thereof.

[0077] Among the organic fillers that can be used in the compositions according to the invention are polyamide powder (Nylon® Orgasol from Atochem); poly-β-alanine and polyethylene powder; polytetrafluoroethylene (Teflon®) powder; lauroyl-lysine; starch, such as natural corn starch with INCI name: corn starch; modified starch, such as aluminum octenyl succinate (Dry Flo); tetrafluoroethylene polymer powder; metal soaps derived from organic carboxylic acids containing 8 to 22 carbon atoms, preferably 12 to 18 carbon atoms, such as zinc stearate, magnesium stearate or lithium stearate, zinc laurate, magnesium myristate; Polypore® L 200 (Chemdal); silicone resin microbeads (e.g., Tospearl® from Toshiba); spherical organopolysiloxane elastomer powder with INCI name: polydimethylsiloxane / vinyl polydimethylsiloxane crosspolymer (Dowsil Trefil from Dow Corning Chemical).

[0078] E-506 S Silicone Powder®, Dowsil 9506 Powder®); polyurethane powders, particularly crosslinked polyurethane powders containing copolymers comprising trimethylolcaprolactone, such as the hexamethylene diisocyanate / trimethylolcaprolactone polymers sold by Toshiki under the names Plastic Powder D-400® or Plastic Powder D-800®; carnauba microcrystalline waxes, such as those sold by Micro Powders under the name MicroCare 350®; synthetic wax microcrystalline waxes, such as those sold by Micro Powders under the name MicroEase114S®; microcrystalline waxes composed of mixtures of carnauba wax and polyethylene wax, such as those sold by Micro Powders under the names MicroCare 300® and 310®; microwaxes composed of mixtures of carnauba wax and synthetic waxes, such as those sold by Micro Powders under the name MicroCare Products sold by 325®; polyethylene microcrystalline waxes, such as those sold by American Micropowder Company under the names Micropoly 200®, 220®, 220L®, and 250S®; synthetic or natural, and mineral or organic fibers. They can be short or long, monofilamentous or organized (e.g., braided), and hollow or solid. They can have any shape and can in particular have circular or polygonal (square, hexagonal, or octagonal) cross-sections, depending on the specific application envisioned. In particular, their ends are passivated and / or polished to prevent damage. The fibers have a length ranging from 1 µm to 10 mm, preferably from 0.1 mm to 5 mm, and even more preferably from 0.3 mm to 3 mm. Their cross-sections can include those in circles having diameters ranging from 2 nm to 500 µm, preferably from 100 nm to 100 µm, and even more preferably from 1 µm to 50 µm; and mixtures thereof.

[0079] Depending on the specific form, the fillers used in the compositions of the present invention are selected from talc, natural mica, synthetic mica such as fluorophlogopite, magnesium aluminum silicate, lauroyl lysine, natural starch such as natural corn starch having the INCI name: maize starch, and mixtures thereof.

[0080] Granular dyes

[0081] The granular dyes according to the present invention are preferably selected from pigments, mother-of-pearl and reflective particles, and mixtures thereof.

[0082] pigment

[0083] The term “pigment” should be understood to mean any shape of white or colored mineral or organic particles that are soluble in physiological media and intended to color a composition.

[0084] Pigments can be white or colored, and can be mineral and / or organic.

[0085] Among mineral pigments, one may mention titanium dioxide, zirconium oxide or cerium oxide, as well as zinc oxide, iron oxide (black, yellow or red) or chromium oxide, manganese violet, ultramarine, ultramarine powder or ultramarine violet, chromium hydrate and iron blue, bismuth oxychloride and metal powders (such as aluminum powder or copper powder).

[0086] Organic pigments can be selected from the following materials and mixtures thereof:

[0087] - Cochineal,

[0088] - Organic pigments of azo dyes, anthraquinone dyes, indigo dyes, xanthan dyes, pyrene dyes, quinoline dyes, triphenylmethane dyes, and fluorane dyes.

[0089] Among organic pigments, those certified by D&C and known by the following names are particularly noteworthy: D&C Blue No. 4, D&C Brown No. 1, D&C Green No. 5, D&C Green No. 6, D&C Orange No. 4, D&C Orange No. 5, D&C Orange No. 10, D&C Orange No. 11, D&C Red No. 6, D&C Red No. 7, D&C Red No. 17, D&C Red No. 21, D&C Red No. 22, D&C Red No. 27, D&C Red No. 28, D&C Red No. 30, D&C Red No. 31, D&C Red No. 33, D&C Red No. 34, D&C Red No. 36, D&C Violet No. 2, D&C Yellow No. 7, D&C Yellow No. 8, D&C Yellow No. 10, D&C Yellow No. 11, FD&C Blue No. 1, FD&C Green No. 3, FD&C Red No. 40, FD&C Yellow No. 5, and FD&C Yellow No. 6.

[0090] The chemical materials corresponding to each of the previously mentioned organic dyes are mentioned in the publication "International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary and Handbook" published by The Cosmetic, Toiletries and Fragrance Association, 1997 edition, pp. 371-386 and 524-528.

[0091] The composition according to the invention may contain a pigment content of less than or equal to 30.0% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably ranging from 2% to 20% by weight and more preferably from 4% to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0092] Mother-of-pearl

[0093] The term “mother-of-pearl” should be understood to mean any form of colored particles (which may or may not be iridescent), especially those produced by some mollusc within its shell, or synthetically produced, and which have a color effect through optical interference.

[0094] Examples of mother-of-pearl that may be mentioned include pearlescent pigments such as mica titanium coated with iron oxide, mica coated with bismuth oxychloride, mica titanium coated with chromium oxide, and pearlescent pigments based on bismuth oxychloride. These mother-of-pearls may also be mica particles with at least two layers of metal oxide and / or organic dye layer superimposed on their surface in sequence.

[0095] Mother-of-pearl can be more specifically characterized by its yellow, pink, red, bronze, orange, brown, green, blue, purple, and / or copper colors or hues.

[0096] Examples of mother-of-pearl that can be incorporated into compositions include, in particular, golden mother-of-pearl sold by Engelhard under the names Brilliant Gold 212G® (Timica), Gold 222C® (Cloisonne), SparkleGold® (Timica), Gold 4504® (Chromalite), and Monarch Gold 233X® (Cloisonne); bronze mother-of-pearl sold by Merck under the names Bronze Fine® (17384) (Colorona) and Bronze® (17353) (Colorona) and by Engelhard under the name Super Bronze® (Cloisonne); and mother-of-pearl sold by Engelhard under the names Orange 363C® (Cloisonne) and Orange MCR 101® (Cosmica), and by Merck under the names Passion Orange® (Colorona) and Matte. Orange mother-of-pearl sold by Orange® (17449) (Microna); particularly brown mother-of-pearl sold by Engelhard under the names Nu-antique Copper340XB® (Cloisonne) and Brown CL4509® (Chromalite); particularly copper-toned mother-of-pearl sold by Engelhard under the name Copper 340A® (Timica); particularly red-toned mother-of-pearl sold by Merck under the name Sienna Fine® (17386) (Colorona); particularly yellow-toned mother-of-pearl sold by Engelhard under the name Yellow® (4502) (Chromalite); particularly red-toned mother-of-pearl sold by BASF under the name Sunstone G012® (Gemtone); particularly pink mother-of-pearl sold by Engelhard under the name Tan Opale G005® (Gemtone); particularly mother-of-pearl sold by Engelhard under the name Nu-antique Bronze 240 Black mother-of-pearl with a gold tint sold by AB® (Timica); blue mother-of-pearl sold by Merck under the name Matte Blue® (17433) (Microna); white mother-of-pearl with a silver tint sold by Merck under the name Xirona Silver®; and gold-green, pink, and orange mother-of-pearl sold by Merck under the name Indian Summer® (Xirona); and mixtures thereof.

[0097] As another example of mother-of-pearl, we can also mention particles containing a borosilicate substrate coated with titanium dioxide.

[0098] The particles containing glass substrates coated with titanium oxide are especially sold by Toyal Co., Ltd. under the name Metashine MC1080RY.

[0099] Finally, examples of mother-of-pearl that can also be mentioned include polyethylene terephthalate glitter flakes, especially those sold by Meadowbrook Inventions under the name Silver 1P 0.004X0.004 (Silver Glitter Flakes).

[0100] The composition according to the invention may contain mother-of-pearl content of less than or equal to 50.0% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably ranging from 20% to 40% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0101] Reflective particles

[0102] The term "reflective particles" refers to particles whose size, structure, and especially the thickness of the layers they are made of, as well as their physical and chemical properties and surface condition, allow them to reflect incident light. When a composition or mixture is applied to a carrier to be cosmetically applied, this reflection can, where appropriate, have an intensity sufficient to produce visible highlights (i.e., brighter points that make them appear shimmering and contrast with their environment) on the surface of the composition or mixture.

[0103] Reflective particles can be selected so as not to significantly alter the coloring effect produced by the colorants combined with them, and more specifically, to optimize this effect in color reproduction. They can more specifically have yellow, pink, red, bronze, orange, brown, gold and / or copper colors or hues.

[0104] These particles can take different forms and can be in particular flake or spherical form, especially spherical form.

[0105] Regardless of their form, reflective particles may or may not have a multilayer structure, and in the case of a multilayer structure, they may have, for example, at least one layer of reflective material of uniform thickness.

[0106] When reflective particles do not have a multilayer structure, they can be composed of, for example, metal oxides, especially synthetically obtained titanium oxide or iron oxide.

[0107] When reflective particles have a multilayer structure, they may include, for example, natural or synthetic substrates, particularly synthetic substrates at least partially coated with a layer of at least one reflective material, especially at least one metal or metallic material. The substrate may be made of one or more organic and / or mineral materials.

[0108] More specifically, it can be selected from glass, ceramics, graphite, metal oxides, alumina, silicon dioxide, silicates (especially aluminosilicates and borosilicates), and synthetic mica, and mixtures thereof, and this list is not restrictive.

[0109] Reflective materials may include a metal layer or a layer of metallic material.

[0110] Reflective particles are particularly described in JP-A-09188830, JP-A-10158450, JP-A-10158541, JP-A-07258460 and JP-A-05017710.

[0111] Furthermore, as an example of reflective particles comprising mineral substrates coated with a metal layer, particles comprising borosilicate substrates coated with silver can also be mentioned.

[0112] The sheet-like particles with a silver-coated glass substrate are sold by Toyo Co., Ltd. under the name MicroglassMetashine REFSX 2025 PS®. Particles with a nickel / chromium / molybdenum alloy-coated glass substrate are sold by the same company under the names Crystal Star GF 550® and GF 2525®.

[0113] Particles containing a metal substrate, such as silver, aluminum, iron, chromium, nickel, molybdenum, gold, copper, zinc, tin, magnesium, steel, bronze, or titanium, may also be used. The substrate is coated with a layer of at least one metal oxide, such as titanium oxide, aluminum oxide, iron oxide, cerium oxide, chromium oxide, silicon oxide, and mixtures thereof.

[0114] Examples that may be mentioned include aluminum powder, bronze powder, or copper powder coated with SiO2, which is sold by Eckart under the name Visionaire®.

[0115] According to a specific form of the invention, the granular dye is selected from:

[0116] - Titanium dioxide (CI: 77891), such as the commercial product Hombitan FFPharma® sold by Venator;

[0117] - Yellow iron oxide (CI: 77492), red iron oxide (CI: 77491), black iron oxide (CI: 77499), and mixtures thereof, such as products sold by Sun Corporation under the trade name Sunpuro®;

[0118] - Mother-of-pearl, such as those based on mica coated with titanium dioxide and / or iron oxide, such as products sold by Merck under the trade name Timiron Pearl Sheen MP 30®; those based on mica, barium sulfate and titanium dioxide, such as products sold by Merck under the trade name Ronaflair Low Luster Pigment®;

[0119] - Bismuth oxychloride, such as products sold by Merck under the trade name Ronaflair LF 2000®;

[0120] - Its mixture.

[0121] Non-volatile oils

[0122] The compositions of the present invention comprise at least one non-volatile oil.

[0123] The term "oil" refers to oil that is heated at room temperature (20°C-25°C) and atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg, or 10). 5 Any fatty substance that is in liquid form under the pH (Pa). These oils can be of plant, mineral, or synthetic origin.

[0124] Non-volatile oils can be selected from the group consisting of hydrocarbon-based oils and silicone oils and mixtures thereof.

[0125] Preferably, the non-volatile oil is present in the composition at a content of 5% to 20% by weight and more preferably 7% to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition of the present invention.

[0126] For the purposes of this invention, the term "silicone oil" refers to an oil containing at least one silicon atom, and in particular at least one Si-O group, and more particularly an organopolysiloxane.

[0127] The term "hydrocarbon-based oil" refers to an oil that primarily contains carbon and hydrogen atoms and possibly one or more functional groups selected from hydroxyl, ester, ether, and carboxylic acid functional groups.

[0128] The term "non-volatile oil" refers to an oil that remains on a keratin material at room temperature and atmospheric pressure for at least several hours, and particularly has a vapor pressure of less than 2.66 Pa, preferably less than 0.13 Pa. For example, according to vapor pressure (standard OCDE 104), vapor pressure can be measured by static methods or by the effusion method using isothermal thermogravimetric analysis.

[0129] - Its mixture.

[0130] Non-volatile hydrocarbon-based oils

[0131] As an example of a non-volatile hydrocarbon-based oil that can be used in this invention, the following can be mentioned:

[0132] - Hydrocarbon-based oils of plant origin, such as phytosterol esters, including phytosterol oleate, phytosterol isostearate, and lauroyl / octyldodecyl / phytosterol glutamate; triglycerides formed from fatty acid esters of glycerol, particularly whose fatty acids can have chain lengths ranging from C4 to C36, and especially C18 to C36, these oils can be straight-chain or branched, and saturated or unsaturated; these oils can be, in particular, heptanoic or caprylic triglycerides, shea oil, alfalfa oil, pumpkin oil, millet oil, barley oil, quinoa oil, rye oil, tamarisk oil, semperflorens oil, shea butter oil, aloe vera oil, sweet almond oil, walnut oil, peanut oil, argan oil, avocado oil, kapok oil, borage oil, broccoli oil, calendula oil, camellia oil, carrot oil, safflower oil, rapeseed oil, cottonseed oil, coconut oil, and marrow seed oil. Oils including wheat germ oil, jojoba oil, lily oil, macadamia nut oil, corn oil, meadowfoam oil, St. John's wort oil, monoi oil, hazelnut oil, almond oil, walnut oil, olive oil, evening primrose oil, palm oil, blackcurrant pip oil, kiwi seed oil, grapeseed oil, pistachio oil, pumpkin seed oil, quinoa oil, musk rose oil, sesame oil, soybean oil, sunflower oil, castor oil, and watermelon seed oil, and mixtures thereof, or alternatively caprylic / capric triglycerides, especially those marketed by Stéarinerie Dubois or by Dynamit Nobel under the names Miglyol 810®, 812®, and 818®.

[0133] - Straight-chain or branched hydrocarbons of mineral or synthetic origin, such as liquid paraffin and its derivatives, petrolatum, polydecene, polybutene, hydrogenated polyisobutylene such as Parleam, or squalane.

[0134] - Synthetic ethers containing 10 to 40 carbon atoms, such as dioctyl ether;

[0135] - Synthetic esters, such as oils of the formula R1COOR2, wherein R1 represents at least one straight-chain or branched fatty acid residue containing 1 to 40 carbon atoms, and R2 represents a hydrocarbon-based chain, particularly branched, containing 1 to 40 carbon atoms, provided that R1 + R2 is greater than or equal to 10. Esters may be particularly selected from fatty acid esters of alcohols, such as cetearyl octanoate, isopropyl alcohol esters such as isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, ethyl palmitate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, isopropyl stearate, isopropyl isostearate, isostearate isostearate, octyl stearate, octyl dodecyl stearyl stearate, hydroxylated esters such as isostearate lactate, octyl hydroxystearate, diisopropyl adipate, heptanoates, and especially isostearate heptanoate, octanoates, decanoates, or castor oil esters such as propylene glycol dioctanoate, cetearyl octanoate, etc. Wax esters, tridecyl octanoate, 2-ethylhexyl 4-diheptanoate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, alkyl benzoate, polyethylene glycol diheptanoate, propylene glycol bis(2-ethyl)hexanoate, and mixtures thereof, C12-C15 benzoate esters, hexyl laurate, neopentanoates such as isodecanyl neopentanoate, isotrexyl neopentanoate, isostearyl neopentanoate, octyldodecyl neopentanoate, isonononanoate such as isonononyl isononanoate, isotrexyl isononanoate, octyl isononanoate, hydroxylated esters such as isostearyl lactate and diisostearyl malate.

[0136] - Pentaerythritol esters, such as dipentaerythritol tetrahydroxystearate / tetraisostearate,

[0137] - Esters of diol dimers and diacid dimers

[0138] - Copolymers of diol dimers and diacid dimers and their esters, such as copolymers of dilinoleyl diol dimers / dilinoleic acid dimers and their esters;

[0139] - Copolymers of polyols and diacid dimers and their esters;

[0140] - Fatty alcohols that are liquid at room temperature and contain branched and / or unsaturated carbon chains with 12 to 26 carbon atoms, such as octyldodecanol, isostearyl alcohol, 2-butyloctanol, 2-hexyldecanol, 2-undecylpentadecanol or oleyl alcohol.

[0141] - Higher fatty acids, such as oleic acid, linoleic acid, or linolenic acid;

[0142] - Carbonates, such as dioctyl carbonate;

[0143] - Acetate;

[0144] - Citrate;

[0145] - Its mixture.

[0146] According to a preferred mode, the non-volatile hydrocarbon-based oil is selected from synthetic esters, fatty alcohols that are liquid at room temperature and have branched and / or unsaturated carbon chains containing 12 to 26 carbon atoms, and mixtures thereof, and more particularly from isotriadecyl isononanoate, octyldodecyl alcohol, and mixtures thereof.

[0147] Non-volatile silicone oil

[0148] Non-volatile silicone oils that can be mentioned include:

[0149] - Polydimethylsiloxanes (INCI name: Dimethicone), which particularly have a range of 50 to 500 mm. 2 / s (cSt), especially 350 mm 2 Viscosity in cSt, such as commercial products sold by Wacker under the name Belsil DM 350® and by Dow Corning under the name Xiameter PMX-200 Silicone Fluid® 350CS; polydimethylsiloxane having a viscosity range of 50 to 150 mm. 2 / s (cSt), especially 100 mm 2 Viscosity of / s (cSt), such as commercial products sold by Wacker under the name Belsil DM 100® and by Dow Corning under the name Xiameter PMX-200 Silicone Fluid 100CS®.

[0150] - Phenyl silicone oils, such as phenyl polytrimethylsiloxane, phenyl polydimethylsiloxane, phenyltrimethylsiloxydiphenylsiloxane, diphenyl polydimethylsiloxane, diphenylmethyldiphenyltrisiloxane, and 2-phenylethyltrimethylsiloxysilicate.

[0151] Organopolysiloxane elastomers in gel form

[0152] The compositions according to the invention comprise at least one organopolysiloxane elastomer in gel form, the gel being composed of an elastomer organopolysiloxane contained in at least one hydrocarbon-based oil and / or silicone oil.

[0153] When these specific elastomers are combined with powders as required by the invention, they enable the acquisition of soft and comfortable properties (softness of the deposits) for deposits formed on the skin by compositions containing them.

[0154] The term "organopolysiloxane elastomer" refers to a flexible, deformable organopolysiloxane that possesses viscoelastic properties, particularly a consistency resembling a sponge or soft sphere. Its elastic modulus allows the material to withstand deformation and exhibits limited stretching and shrinkage. The material is able to return to its original shape after stretching.

[0155] Therefore, organopolysiloxane elastomers can be obtained by crosslinking addition reactions of organopolysiloxanes containing at least one hydrogen bonded to silicon with organopolysiloxanes containing olefinic unsaturated groups bonded to silicon, especially in the presence of a platinum catalyst; or by dehydrogenation crosslinking condensation reactions of organopolysiloxanes containing hydroxyl-terminated groups with organopolysiloxanes containing at least one hydrogen bonded to silicon, especially in the presence of organotin; or by crosslinking condensation reactions of organopolysiloxanes containing hydroxyl-terminated groups with hydrolyzable organopolysilanes; or by thermal crosslinking of organopolysiloxanes, especially in the presence of organic peroxide catalysts; or by crosslinking of organopolysiloxanes via high-energy radiation (such as gamma rays, ultraviolet rays, or electron beams).

[0156] Preferably, the organopolysiloxane elastomer is obtained by a crosslinking addition reaction of a diorganopolysiloxane (A) containing at least two hydrogens each bonded to silicon and a diorganopolysiloxane (B) containing at least two olefinic unsaturated groups bonded to silicon, especially in the presence of a platinum catalyst (C).

[0157] In particular, organopolysiloxane elastomers can be obtained by reacting dimethyl polysiloxane with dimethylvinylsiloxy end groups with methylhydropolysiloxane with trimethylsiloxy end groups in the presence of a platinum catalyst.

[0158] Compound (A) is the basic reagent for forming elastomeric organopolysiloxanes, and crosslinking is carried out by the addition reaction of compound (A) and compound (B) in the presence of catalyst (C).

[0159] Compound (A) is in particular an organopolysiloxane containing at least two hydrogen atoms bonded to different silicon atoms in each molecule.

[0160] Compound (A) can have any molecular structure, especially a straight-chain structure, a branched structure, or a cyclic structure.

[0161] Compound (A) may have a viscosity at 25°C ranging from 1 to 50,000 centipoise, especially to facilitate miscibility with compound (B).

[0162] The organic group bonded to the silicon atom of compound (A) can be an alkyl group, such as methyl, ethyl, propyl, butyl, octyl; a substituted alkyl group, such as 2-phenylethyl, 2-phenylpropyl, or 3,3,3-trifluoropropyl; an aryl group, such as phenyl, tolyl, xylyl; a substituted aryl group, such as phenylethyl; and a substituted monovalent hydrocarbon-based group, such as an epoxy group, a carboxylic acid ester group, or a mercapto group.

[0163] Therefore, compound (A) can be selected from trimethylsiloxy-terminated methylhydrosiloxanes, trimethylsiloxy-terminated dimethylsiloxane / methylhydrosiloxane copolymers, and dimethylsiloxane / methylhydrosiloxane cyclic copolymers.

[0164] Compound (B) is advantageously a diorganopolysiloxane containing at least two lower (e.g., C2-C4) alkenyl groups; the lower alkenyl groups may be selected from vinyl, allyl, and propenyl groups. These lower alkenyl groups may be located at any position on the organopolysiloxane molecule, but are preferably located at the end of the organopolysiloxane molecule. The organopolysiloxane (B) may have a branched, linear, cyclic, or network structure, but a linear structure is preferred. Compound (B) may have a viscosity ranging from liquid to colloidal. Preferably, compound (B) has a viscosity of at least 100 centistokes at 25°C.

[0165] In addition to the alkenyl groups mentioned above, other organic groups bonded to the silicon atom in compound (B) may be alkyl groups, such as methyl, ethyl, propyl, butyl, or octyl; substituted alkyl groups, such as 2-phenylethyl, 2-phenylpropyl, or 3,3,3-trifluoropropyl; aryl groups, such as phenyl, tolyl, or xylyl; substituted aryl groups, such as phenylethyl; and substituted monovalent hydrocarbon-based groups, such as epoxy, carboxylic acid ester, or mercapto groups.

[0166] The organopolysiloxane (B) may be selected from methyl vinyl polysiloxane, methyl vinyl siloxane-dimethyl siloxane copolymer, dimethyl polysiloxane containing dimethyl vinyl siloxy end groups, dimethyl siloxane-methyl phenyl siloxane copolymer containing dimethyl vinyl siloxy end groups, dimethyl siloxane-diphenyl siloxane-methyl vinyl siloxane copolymer containing dimethyl vinyl siloxy end groups, dimethyl siloxane-methyl vinyl siloxane copolymer containing trimethyl siloxy end groups, dimethyl siloxane-methyl phenyl siloxane-methyl vinyl siloxane copolymer containing trimethyl siloxy end groups, methyl (3,3,3-trifluoropropyl) polysiloxane containing dimethyl vinyl siloxy end groups, and dimethyl siloxane-methyl (3,3,3-trifluoropropyl) siloxane copolymer containing dimethyl vinyl siloxy end groups.

[0167] In particular, organopolysiloxane elastomers can be obtained by reacting dimethyl polysiloxane with dimethylvinylsiloxy end groups with methylhydropolysiloxane with trimethylsiloxy end groups in the presence of a platinum catalyst.

[0168] Advantageously, the sum of the number of vinyl groups per molecule of compound (B) and the number of hydrogen atoms bonded to silicon atoms per molecule of compound (A) is at least 5.

[0169] Advantageously, compound (A) is added in such a certain amount that the molecular ratio between the total amount of hydrogen atoms bonded to silicon atoms in compound (A) and the total amount of all olefinic unsaturated groups in compound (B) is in the range of 1.5 / 1 to 20 / 1.

[0170] Compound (C) is a catalyst for crosslinking reactions, and in particular chloroplatinic acid, chloroplatinic acid-olefin complexes, chloroplatinic acid-alkenylsiloxane complexes, chloroplatinic acid-diketone complexes, platinum black, and supported platinum.

[0171] The total amount of compound (A) and compound (B) per 1000 parts by weight is preferably added as a catalyst (C) for clean platinum metal in an amount of 0.1 to 1000 parts by weight, and even more preferably 1 to 100 parts by weight.

[0172] Organopolysiloxane elastomers are particularly described in patents EP 242 219, EP 285 886 and EP 765 656 and patent application JP-A-61-194 009.

[0173] The elastomer is advantageously a non-emulsified elastomer.

[0174] The term "non-emulsified" defines an organopolysiloxane elastomer that does not contain any hydrophilic chains and, in particular, does not contain any polyoxyalkylene units (especially polyoxyethylene or polyoxypropylene) or any polyglycerol units.

[0175] In particular, the silicone elastomers used in this invention are selected from those having the following INCI names: polydimethylsiloxane crosslinked polymer, vinyl polydimethylsiloxane crosslinked polymer, polydimethylsiloxane / vinyl polydimethylsiloxane crosslinked polymer, and polydimethylsiloxane crosslinked polymer-3.

[0176] Organopolysiloxane elastomers are delivered in the form of gels, which consist of elastomeric organopolysiloxanes contained in at least one hydrocarbon-based oil and / or a silicone oil. In these gels, the organopolysiloxane particles are typically non-spherical.

[0177] According to one specific embodiment, an organopolysiloxane elastomer in gel form is dispersed in a hydrocarbon-based oil of the isoalkane type (particularly isododecane).

[0178] According to another specific embodiment, an organopolysiloxane elastomer in gel form is dispersed in a silicone oil selected from cyclopentasiloxane, polydimethylsiloxane, dimethylsiloxane, methylpolytrimethylsiloxane, phenylpolymethylsiloxane, phenylpolydimethylsiloxane, phenylpolytrimethylsiloxane, and cyclopolydimethylsiloxane, preferably dispersed in a silicone oil selected from those having a diameter in the range of 1 to 500 mm at 25°C. 2 The viscosity of polydimethylsiloxane (PDMS) or dimethicone in linear silicone oils at 25°C is / s.

[0179] In particular, organopolysiloxane elastomers in gel form with the following INCI names may be mentioned:

[0180] - Polydimethylsiloxane (and) polydimethylsiloxane / vinyl polydimethylsiloxane crosslinked polymers, such as KSG-6® and KSG-16® from Shin-Etsu Corporation;

[0181] - Cyclopentasiloxane (and) polydimethylsiloxane / vinyl polydimethylsiloxane, such as KSG-15®,

[0182] - Cyclopentasiloxane (and) polydimethylsiloxane crosslinked polymers, such as

[0183] DC9040®, DC9045®, and DC5930® from Dow Corning

[0184] - Polydimethylsiloxane (and) polydimethylsiloxane crosslinked polymers, such as DC9041® from Dow Corning.

[0185] Particularly preferred are gel-form organopolysiloxane elastomers having the following INCI names: polydimethylsiloxane (and) polydimethylsiloxane / vinyl polydimethylsiloxane crosslinked polymers, such as KSG-6® and KSG-16 from Shin-Etsu Corporation.

[0186] Advantageously, the organopolysiloxane elastomer in gel form is present in a solid content of greater than or equal to 0.1% relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably ranging from 0.2% to 8% by weight, more preferably from 0.5% to 6% by weight, particularly from 1.5% to 3% by weight, and even more particularly from 2% to 3% by weight.

[0187] The organopolysiloxane elastomer can be present in a ratio such that the mass ratio of the organopolysiloxane elastomer to the powdered phase is between 0.05 and 0.35, preferably 0.10 to 0.20, and even more preferably 0.10 to 0.12.

[0188] Emulsification system

[0189] The composition according to the invention comprises at least one emulsifying system, the at least one emulsifying system comprising:

[0190] i) At least one nonionic surfactant having an HLB value of less than or equal to 8.0 at 25°C, and

[0191] ii) At least one lysophospholipid.

[0192] For the purposes of this invention, the term "surfactant" refers to an amphiphilic compound, that is, a compound having two parts with different polarities in its structure. Generally, one part is lipophilic (soluble or dispersible in an oil phase), and the other part is hydrophilic (soluble or dispersible in water). Surfactants are characterized by their HLB (hydrophilic-lipophilic balance) value, which is the ratio of the hydrophilic portion to the lipophilic portion in the molecule. The term "HLB" is well known to those skilled in the art and is described, for example, in "The HLB System. A Time-Saving Guide to Emulsifier Selection" (published by ICI Americas Inc.; 1984). The HLB of the surfactant used according to this invention can be determined by the Griffin method.

[0193] i) Nonionic surfactants having an HLB of less than or equal to 8.0 at 25°C

[0194] Nonionic surfactants having an HLB value of less than or equal to 8.0 at 25°C are preferably selected from:

[0195] - Sugar esters and ethers, such as sucrose stearate, sucrose cocoate, sorbitol esters such as sorbitol stearate, sorbitol monoisostearate, sorbitol tristearate, sorbitol oleate, sorbitol sesquioleate, methylglucose isostearate, sucrose (poly)palmitoyl stearate, sucrose laurate, sucrose palmitate, sucrose trisorheic ester, sucrose oleate, sucrose distearate, sucrose polylaurate and sucrose hexasorheic ester, and mixtures thereof, such as Arlatone 2121® sold by ICI or Span 65V from Uniqema;

[0196] - Esters of fatty acids, especially C8-C24 fatty acids and preferably C16-C22 fatty acids, with polyols, especially glycerol or sorbitol, such as glyceryl stearate (e.g., sold by Goldschmidt under the name Tegin M®), polyglycerol diisostearate, polyglycerol isostearate, polyglycerol monostearate, diglycerol tetraisostearate, polyethylene glycol diisostearate, polyglycerol-10 pentastearate, glyceryl monooleate, glyceryl laurate (e.g., sold by Hüls under the name Imwitor 312®), diethylene glycol (di)laurate, decaglyceryl pentaoleate, decaglyceryl pentadiisostearate, glyceryl decanoate / caprylate, polyglycerol-2 (iso)stearate, and glyceryl (poly)ricinoleate;

[0197] - Oxyalkylene-modified alcohols, particularly oxyethylene-modified and / or oxypropylene-modified alcohols that may contain 1 to 15 oxyethylene and / or oxypropylene units, particularly ethoxylated C8-C24 and preferably C12-C18 fatty alcohols, such as stearyl alcohol (INCI name: stearyl alcohol polyether-2) ethoxylated with 2 oxyethylene units (such as Brij 72® sold by Leykma), or oxyethylene-modified oleyl alcohol;

[0198] - Fatty alcohols, such as cetearyl alcohol;

[0199] - Oxyethylated and / or oxypropylated silicone compounds containing, for example, 3 to 20 oxyalkylene units, and especially oxyethylated and / or oxypropylated polydimethylsiloxanes;

[0200] - A mixture of cyclodimethylsiloxane / dimethylsiloxane copolyol, such as that sold by Dow Corning under the name Q2-3225C®;

[0201] and its mixtures.

[0202] According to a particularly preferred embodiment, the nonionic surfactant having an HLB of less than 8.0 at 25°C is selected from sorbitol esters, particularly sorbitol monoisostearate.

[0203] The total content of nonionic surfactants having an HLB content of less than 8 at 25°C is preferably greater than or equal to 1% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, more preferably greater than or equal to 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. According to specific embodiments, the total content of nonionic surfactants having an HLB content of less than 8 at 25°C ranges from 1% to 4% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0204] ii) Lysophospholipids

[0205] Lysophospholipids refer to phospholipids that have lost one or more acyl groups through enzymatic hydrolysis, particularly by phospholipase-type enzymes.

[0206] Among the lysophospholipids used in the compositions of the present invention, it can be mentioned that:

[0207] - Also known as lysophosphatidylcholine (LPC), a type of lysophosphatidylcholine.

[0208] - Lysophosphatidylinositol (LPI)

[0209] - Lysophosphatidylethanolamine (LPE)

[0210] - Lyso-Phosphatidyl Acid (LPA)

[0211] - Its mixture.

[0212] More preferably, lysophosphatidylcholine (LPC), also known as lysophosphatidylcholine, has the following structure:

[0213] [Chemical Formula 1]

[0214]

[0215] Where R is an aliphatic fatty acid chain.

[0216] The lysophosphatidylcholine or lysophosphatidylcholine used in the compositions of the present invention is preferably present in soybean extracts, particularly extracts having the INCI name: Wild Soybean (Soybean) Seed Extract.

[0217] More preferably, the soybean extract having the INCI name: Wild Soybean (Soybean) Seed Extract is in the form of a mixture of the extract and glycerin. More specifically, the mixture comprises 64% to 82% glycerin by weight relative to the total weight of the mixture and 18% to 36% soybean extract (wild soybean (Soybean) Seed Extract) by weight, such as a product sold by Kemin under the trade name Lysofix Liquid®.

[0218] Preferably, the mixture of glycerol and soybean extract having the INCI name: Glycerin (and) Soybean Seed Extract is present at a concentration ranging from 1% to 10% by weight, more preferably from 2% to 6% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0219] hydrophilic gelling agent

[0220] The compositions according to the present invention comprise one or more hydrophilic gelling agents.

[0221] For the purposes of this patent application, the term "hydrophilic gelling agent" refers to a compound capable of gelling the aqueous phase of a composition according to the invention. More specifically, these hydrophilic gelling agents function to structure the aqueous phase of the intermediate composition so as to maintain the structured composition after water has been removed from the composition. The gelling agent may be introduced together with the aqueous phase of the intermediate composition or with the powdered phase. The gelling agent is advantageously soluble in the aqueous phase of the intermediate composition.

[0222] The gelling agent that can be used according to the invention is characterized, in particular, in concentrations exceeding a certain C. The ability of a substance to form a gel in water, characterized by oscillatory rheology (µ = 1 Hz) with a yield point τc at least equal to 10 Pa. This concentration C... The properties can vary widely depending on the properties of the gelling polymer being considered.

[0223] The gelling agent can achieve a stiffness modulus G of the composition sufficient to... The amount of the component is adjusted to a value greater than or equal to 10,000 Pa (1 Hz, 25°C), and especially in the range of 10,000 Pa to 100,000 Pa.

[0224] The methods for measuring these parameters of the composition are described, for example, in the paragraph entitled “rheological characterization” in patent application EP 1 534 218.

[0225] Thickening fillers

[0226] Thickening fillers can achieve this function as aqueous phase gelling agents. Such fillers preferably include clay and / or hollow minerals or organic microspheres that can swell in water.

[0227] The clay present in the composition according to the invention is a clay capable of swelling in water; the clay swells in water and forms a colloidal dispersion after hydration.

[0228] Clay is a product that is already well-known, and it is described, for example, in publications such as Minéralogie des argiles [Mineralogy of Clays], S. Caillère, S. Hénin, M. Rautureau, 2nd edition, 1982, Masson.

[0229] Clay is a silicate containing cations, which are advantageously selected from calcium, magnesium, aluminum, sodium, potassium and lithium cations and mixtures thereof.

[0230] Examples of such products that may be mentioned include the montmorillonite family (such as montmorillonite, lithium montmorillonite, bentonite, bedesite, and soapstone), as well as clays from the vermiculite, magnesia, and chlorite families.

[0231] These clays can be of natural or synthetic origin. It is preferable to use clays that are skin-compatible and acceptable in cosmetic applications.

[0232] According to a particularly preferred embodiment of the invention, the water-swellable clay used is selected from montmorillonite, lithium montmorillonite, bentonite, bedesite, and soapstone, and more particularly lithium montmorillonite and bentonite.

[0233] As a water-swellable clay that can be used according to the present invention, references can be made to synthetic lithium montmorillonite (also known as lithium soapstone), such as products sold by Laporte under the names Laponite XLG®, Laponite RD® and Laponite RDS® (these products are sodium magnesium silicate and, in particular, sodium lithium magnesium silicate); bentonite, such as products sold by Rheox under the name Bentone HC®; magnesium aluminum silicate, especially hydrated magnesium aluminum silicate, such as products sold by Vanderbilt under the name Veegum Ultra®, or calcium silicate, and especially products sold by the company in synthetic form under the name Micro-cel C®.

[0234] Preferably, when a thickening filler (such as clay) is used as a hydrophilic gelling agent, at least one different additional filler is provided in the powdered phase of the composition.

[0235] Clay may be used in amounts ranging from 0.5% to [amount]% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0236] The composition contains 5% and more preferably 1% to 3% by weight.

[0237] Polymer hydrophilic thickener

[0238] More specifically, the gelling agent can be selected from the following polymer thickeners:

[0239] - Homopolymers or copolymers of acrylic acid or methacrylic acid, or their salts and esters, and particularly those produced by Allied Colloid under the name...

[0240] Products sold by Versicol F® or Versicol K®

[0241] Products marketed by Ciba-Geigy under the name Ultrahold 8®, including polyacrylic acid of the Synthalen K® type, and salts of polyacrylic acid, especially sodium salts (with INCI name: sodium acrylate copolymer), and more particularly crosslinked sodium polyacrylate (with INCI name: sodium acrylate copolymer (and) caprylic / capric triglyceride) marketed by BASF under the name Luvigel EM®.

[0242] - A copolymer of acrylic acid and acrylamide sold by Hercules under the name Reten® in its sodium salt form; sodium polymethacrylate sold by Vanderbilt under the name Darvan No. 7®; and sodium salt of polyhydroxycarboxylic acid sold by Henkel under the name Hydagen F®.

[0243] - Polyacrylate / alkyl acrylate copolymer, preferably modified or unmodified carboxyvinyl polymer; the most particularly preferred copolymer according to the invention is acrylate / C10-C30-alkyl acrylate copolymer (INCI name: acrylate / C10-30 alkyl acrylate crosslinker), such as products sold by Lubrizol under the trade names PemulenTR1®, Pemulen TR2®, Carbopol 1382® and Carbopol ETD 2020®, and even more preferably Pemulen TR-2®;

[0244] - AMPS (partially neutralized and highly crosslinked polyacrylamide methyl propane sulfonic acid) sold by Clariant.

[0245] - AMPS / acrylamide copolymers, such as Sepigel® or Simulgel® sold by SEPPIC, especially copolymers of polyacrylamide (and) C13-14 isoparaffin (and) lauryl ether-7 with INCI names;

[0246] - Such as Aristoflex HMS® type polyoxyethyleneized AMPS / alkyl methacrylate copolymers (crosslinked or non-crosslinked) sold by Clariant.

[0247] and its mixtures.

[0248] Other examples of polymeric thickeners that may be mentioned include:

[0249] - Anionic, cationic, amphoteric, or nonionic chitin or chitosan polymers;

[0250] - Cellulose polymers selected from hydroxyethyl cellulose, hydroxypropyl cellulose, hydroxymethyl cellulose, ethyl hydroxyethyl cellulose and carboxymethyl cellulose, as well as quaternized cellulose derivatives;

[0251] - Vinyl polymers, such as copolymers of polyvinylpyrrolidone, methyl vinyl ether and maleic anhydride, copolymers of vinyl acetate and crotonic acid, copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone and vinyl acetate; copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone and caprolactam; polyvinyl alcohol;

[0252] - Optional modification of polymers from natural sources, such as

[0253] Galactomannan and its derivatives, such as konjac gum, gellan gum, locust bean gum, fenugreek gum, black privet gum, astragalus gum, gum arabic, acacia gum, guar gum, hydroxypropyl guar gum, hydroxypropyl guar gum modified with sodium methylcarboxylate group (Jaguar XC97-1®, Solvay), guar gum hydroxypropyltrimethylammonium chloride and xanthan gum;

[0254] - Alginate and carrageenan;

[0255] - Glycosaminoglycans;

[0256] - DNA;

[0257] - Mucopolysaccharides, such as hyaluronic acid and chondroitin sulfate, and mixtures thereof.

[0258] According to a particularly preferred embodiment, the gelling agent is selected from associative polymers.

[0259] For the purposes of this invention, the term "associative polymer" refers to any amphiphilic polymer whose structure contains at least one aliphatic chain and at least one hydrophilic moiety. Associative polymers according to the invention can be anionic, cationic, nonionic, or amphoteric.

[0260] Anionic Associative Polymers

[0261] Among anionic associative polymers, those comprising at least one hydrophilic unit and at least one aliphatic allyl ether unit may be mentioned, more particularly those whose hydrophilic unit is formed from an unsaturated olefinic anionic monomer, more particularly from vinyl carboxylic acid and most particularly from acrylic acid or methacrylic acid or mixtures thereof, and whose aliphatic allyl ether unit corresponds to a monomer of formula (I):

[0262] CH2 = C(R')CH2OB n R(I)

[0263] Wherein R' indicates H or CH3, B indicates ethoxy, n is zero or an integer ranging from 1 to 100, and R indicates a hydrocarbon-based group selected from alkyl, arylalkyl, aryl, alkylaryl and cycloalkyl, containing 8 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably 10 to 24 carbon atoms and even more particularly 12 to 18 carbon atoms.

[0264] The emulsion polymerization method described in patent EP-0 216 479 describes and prepares this type of anionic amphiphilic polymer.

[0265] Among anionic associative polymers, maleic anhydride / C30-C38 α-olefin / alkyl maleate terpolymers can also be mentioned, such as the product sold by Newphase Technologies under the name Performa V 1608® (maleic anhydride / C30-C38 α-olefin / isopropyl maleate copolymer).

[0266] In anionic associative polymers, according to preferred embodiments, copolymers comprising α,β-mono-olefinic unsaturated carboxylic acids and esters of α,β-mono-olefinic unsaturated carboxylic acids and oxyalkylene-modified fatty alcohols may be mentioned.

[0267] Preferably, these compounds also contain esters of α,β-mono-olefinic unsaturated carboxylic acids and C1-C4 alcohols as monomers.

[0268] Examples of compounds of this type that may be mentioned include Aculyn 22® (a terpolymer of methacrylate / ethyl acrylate / oxyalkylene stearate methacrylate (containing 20 EO units)) sold by Röhm & Haas, or Aculyn 28® (a terpolymer of methacrylate / ethyl acrylate / oxyethylene behenate methacrylate (25 EO units)).

[0269] As anionic associative polymers, reference may also be made to anionic polymers comprising at least one hydrophilic unit of the unsaturated olefinic carboxylic acid type and at least one hydrophobic unit of the (C10-C30) alkyl ester type, such as an unsaturated carboxylic acid. Examples that may be mentioned include those according to the patent.

[0270] Anionic polymers described and prepared in US 3,915,921 and US 4,509,949.

[0271] Cationic Associative Polymers

[0272] Cationic associative polymers that may be mentioned include quaternized cellulose derivatives and polyacrylates with amine side groups.

[0273] In particular, quaternized cellulose derivatives are:

[0274] - Quaternized cellulose modified with a group containing at least one aliphatic chain (such as an alkyl, arylalkyl, or alkylaryl group containing at least 8 carbon atoms or a mixture thereof).

[0275] - Quaternized hydroxyethyl cellulose modified with a group containing at least one aliphatic chain (such as an alkyl, arylalkyl, or alkylaryl group containing at least 8 carbon atoms or a mixture thereof).

[0276] Polyacrylates with quaternized or non-quaternized amine side groups contain, for example, hydrophobic groups such as stearyl alcohol polyether-20 (polyoxyethylene-modified (20) stearyl alcohol).

[0277] The alkyl group in the quaternized cellulose or hydroxyethyl cellulose preferably contains 8 to 30 carbon atoms. The aryl group preferably indicates phenyl, benzyl, naphthyl, or anthracene.

[0278] Examples of quaternized alkyl hydroxyethyl cellulose containing C8-C30 fatty chains include Quatrisoft LM 200®, Quatrisoft LM-X 529-18-A®, Quatrisoft LM-X 529-18B® (C12 alkyl) and Quatrisoft LM-X 529-8® (C18 alkyl) sold by Amerchol, and Crodacel QM®, Crodacel QL® (C12 alkyl) and Crodacel QS® (C18 alkyl) sold by Croda.

[0279] Examples of polyacrylates with amine side chains that may be mentioned are polymers 8781-121B® or 9492-103® from National Starch.

[0280] Nonionic associative polymers

[0281] Nonionic associative polymers can be selected from:

[0282] - Cellulose modified with groups containing at least one fatty chain,

[0283] For example, hydroxyethyl cellulose modified with groups containing at least one aliphatic chain, such as alkyl (especially C8-C22 alkyl), arylalkyl, and alkylaryl groups, such as Natrosol Plus Grade 330CS (C16 alkyl) sold by Aqualon.

[0284] - Cellulose modified with polyalkylene glycol ether alkylphenol groups, such as Amercell Polymer HM-1500® (polyethylene glycol (15) ether of nonylphenol) sold by Amercell Corporation.

[0285] - Guar gum modified with groups containing at least one fatty chain, such as an alkyl chain, such as hydroxypropyl guar gum.

[0286] - A copolymer of vinylpyrrolidone and aliphatic hydrophobic monomers.

[0287] - A copolymer of C1-C6 alkyl methacrylate or C1-C6 alkyl acrylate and an amphiphilic monomer containing at least one aliphatic chain.

[0288] - A copolymer of a hydrophilic methacrylate or acrylate and a hydrophobic monomer containing at least one aliphatic chain, such as polyethylene glycol methacrylate / laurate methacrylate copolymer.

[0289] - Associative polyurethane.

[0290] Associative polyurethanes are nonionic block copolymers that contain both hydrophilic blocks (polyurethanes may be called polyether polyurethanes) that typically have polyoxyethylene properties and hydrophobic blocks that may be separate aliphatic and / or alicyclic and / or aromatic sequences in the chain.

[0291] Specifically, these polymers comprise at least two lipophilic hydrocarbon-based chains, each containing 6 to 30 carbon atoms and separated by hydrophilic blocks. These hydrocarbon-based chains can be side chains or chains at the ends of the hydrophilic blocks. In particular, one or more side chains are conceivable. Furthermore, the polymer may contain hydrocarbon-based chains at one or both ends of the hydrophilic blocks.

[0292] Associative polyurethanes can be block polymers in the form of triblocks or multiblocks. Therefore, the hydrophobic blocks can be located at each end of the chain (e.g., in a triblock copolymer containing a hydrophilic central block) or distributed both at the ends and in the chain (e.g., in a multiblock copolymer). These polymers can also be graft polymers or star polymers. Preferably, the associative polyurethane is a triblock copolymer, wherein the hydrophilic block is a polyoxyethylene chain containing 50 to 1000 oxyethylides. Generally, associative polyurethanes contain urethane bonds between the hydrophilic blocks, hence the name.

[0293] According to a preferred embodiment, a nonionic associative polymer of the polyurethane polyether type is used as a gelling agent.

[0294] As an example of a polyurethane polyether that can be used in this invention, reference can be made to the polymer C16-OE120-C16® from Servo Delden (named SER AD FX1100®, which is a molecule containing urethane functional groups and having a weight-average molecular weight of 1300), where OE is an oxyethylidene unit.

[0295] Rheolate 205®, or Rheolate 208® or 204® with urea functional groups, sold by Veles, or alternatively Rheolate FX 1100® with the INCI name stearyl alcohol polyether-100 / PEG-136 / HDI, sold by Elementis, can also be used as associative polyurethane polyether polymers. These associative polyurethanes are sold in pure form. DW 1206B® from Rohm and Haas, containing C20 alkyl chains and urethane bonds, sold at 20% solids in water, can also be used.

[0296] Solutions or dispersions of these polymers can also be used, particularly in water or in aqueous-alcohol media. Examples of such polymers that may be mentioned include SER AD FX1010®, SER AD FX1035®, and SER AD FX1070® from Servo Delden, and Rheolate 255®, Rheolate 278®, and Rheolate 244® from Veles. Also available are Aculyn 46®, DW 1206F®, and DW1206J® from Rohm and Haas, as well as Acrysol RM 184® or Acrysol 44®, or alternatively Borchigel LW 44® from Borchers, and mixtures thereof.

[0297] According to a preferred embodiment, the hydrophilic gelling agent is selected from:

[0298] - Optionally modified hydroxypropyl guar gum, particularly hydroxypropyl guar gum modified with sodium methylcarboxylate groups (Jaguar XC97-1®, Solvay) or guar hydroxypropyltrimethylammonium chloride.

[0299] - Vinyl polymers, such as polyvinyl alcohol,

[0300] - Anionic associative polymers derived from (meth)acrylic acid, such as non-crosslinked copolymers obtained from methacrylic acid and stearyl alcohol polyether-20 methacrylate, which are marketed by Rohm and Haas under the name Aculyn 22®.

[0301] - Nonionic associative polymers of the polyurethane polyether type, such as stearyl alcohol polyether-100 / PEG-136 / HDI copolymer marketed by Hymens under the name Rheolate FX1100®.

[0302] amphoteric polymers

[0303] Among the amphoteric associative polymers of the present invention, crosslinked or non-crosslinked, branched or unbranched amphoteric polymers may be mentioned, which can be obtained by copolymerization of the following:

[0304] 1) At least one monomer of formula (IVa) or (IVb):

[0305] [Chemical Formula 2]

[0306]

[0307] [Chemical Formula 3]

[0308]

[0309] R4 and R5 can be the same or different, representing a hydrogen atom or a methyl group.

[0310] R6, R7, and R8 can be the same or different, representing straight-chain or branched alkyl groups containing 1 to 30 carbon atoms.

[0311] Z represents an NH group or an oxygen atom.

[0312] n is an integer from 2 to 5.

[0313] A- is anion derived from organic or mineral acids, such as methyl sulfate anion or halide ions, such as chloride or bromide ions:

[0314] [Chemical Formula 4]

[0315]

[0316] R9 and R10 can be the same or different, representing a hydrogen atom or a methyl group;

[0317] Z1 represents an OH group or an NHC(CH3)2CH2SO3H group;

[0318] 3) At least one monomer of formula (VI):

[0319] [Chemical Formula 5]

[0320]

[0321] R9 and R10 can be the same or different, representing a hydrogen atom or a methyl group, X indicates an oxygen atom or a nitrogen atom, and R11 indicates a straight-chain or branched alkyl group containing 1 to 30 carbon atoms.

[0322] 4) Optionally, at least one crosslinking agent or branching agent; comprising at least one monomer of formula (IVa), (IVb), or (VI) containing an aliphatic chain of 8 to 30 carbon atoms, and said compound of monomer of formula (IVa), (IVb), (V), and (VI) may be quaternized, for example, with a C1-C4 alkyl halide or a C1-C4 dialkyl sulfate.

[0323] The monomers of formulas (IVa) and (IVb) of the present invention are preferably selected from the group consisting of:

[0324] - Dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate, Dimethylaminoethyl acrylate

[0325] - Diethylaminoethyl methacrylate, Diethylaminoethyl acrylate

[0326] - Dimethylaminopropyl methacrylate, Dimethylaminopropyl acrylate

[0327] - Dimethylaminopropylmethacrylamide or dimethylaminopropylacrylamide, which may optionally be quaternized, for example, using C1-C4 alkyl halides or C1-C4 dialkyl sulfates.

[0328] More specifically, the monomer of formula (IVa) is selected from acrylamidopropyltrimethylammonium chloride and methacrylamidopropyltrimethylammonium chloride.

[0329] The compounds of formula (V) of the present invention are preferably selected from the group consisting of: acrylic acid, methacrylic acid, crotonic acid, 2-methylcrotonic acid, 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid, and 2-methacrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid. More particularly, the monomer of formula (V) is acrylic acid.

[0330] The monomers of formula (VI) of the present invention are preferably selected from the group consisting of: C12-C22 alkyl acrylates or C12-C22 alkyl methacrylates, and more particularly C16-C18 alkyl acrylates or C16-C18 alkyl methacrylates.

[0331] The crosslinking agent or branching agent is preferably selected from N,N'-methylenebisacrylamide, triallyl methyl ammonium chloride, allyl methacrylate, N-hydroxymethylacrylamide, polyethylene glycol dimethacrylate, ethylene glycol dimethacrylate, diethylene glycol dimethacrylate, 1,6-hexanediol dimethacrylate, and allyl sucrose.

[0332] The polymers according to the invention may also contain other monomers, such as nonionic monomers and in particular C1-C4 alkyl acrylates or C1-C4 alkyl methacrylates.

[0333] In these amphoteric polymers, the ratio of cationic charge to anionic charge is preferably equal to about 1.

[0334] The weight-average molecular weight of amphoteric polymers is expressed as a weight-average molecular mass greater than 500, preferably between 10,000 and 10,000,000, and even more preferably between 100,000 and 8,000,000.

[0335] Preferably, the amphoteric associative polymers of the present invention contain 1 mol% to 99 mol%, more preferably 20 mol% to 95 mol%, and even more preferably 25 mol% to 75 mol% of a compound of formula (IVa) or (IVb). They also preferably contain 1 mol% to 80 mol%, more preferably 5 mol% to 80 mol%, and even more preferably 25 mol% to 75 mol% of a compound of formula (V). The content of the compound of formula (VI) is preferably between 0.1 mol% and 70 mol%, more preferably between 1 mol% and 50 mol%, and even more preferably between 1 mol% and 10 mol%. When present, the crosslinking agent or branching agent is preferably between 0.0001 mol% and 1 mol%, and even more preferably between 0.0001 mol% and 0.1 mol%.

[0336] Preferably, the molar ratio between the compound of formula (IVa) or (IVb) and the compound of formula (V) is in the range of 20 / 80 to 95 / 5 and more preferably 25 / 75 to 75 / 25.

[0337] The asexually associative polymers according to the present invention are described, for example, in patent application WO 98 / 44012.

[0338] The amphoteric polymer particularly preferred according to the present invention is selected from acrylic acid / acrylamidopropyltrimethylammonium chloride / stearyl methacrylate copolymer.

[0339] According to a preferred embodiment, the hydrophilic gelling agent is selected from optionally modified polymers of natural origin, and more particularly xanthan gum.

[0340] The hydrophilic gelling agent may be present in the composition according to the invention at a solid content of greater than or equal to 0.1% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. In particular, the hydrophilic gelling agent may be present in the composition at a solid content ranging from 0.2% to 8% by weight, more preferably from 0.5% to 6% by weight, particularly from 1.5% to 3% by weight, and even more particularly from 2% to 3% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0341] intermediate composition

[0342] This invention relates to an intermediate composition comprising at least:

[0343] The components a), b), c), d), e), and f) of the compositions of the present invention as previously defined contain water at a weight of 30% to 60% relative to the total weight of the intermediate composition.

[0344] The intermediate composition is in slurry form and is intended for injection into a mold or cup. The intermediate composition comprises a non-volatile phase and a volatile phase. The non-volatile phase includes components a), b), c), d), and e) present in the composition of the invention as a compacted powder to be applied to a keratin material such as skin. The volatile phase consists of water, which acts as a solvent to enable injection molding of the composition. The water is intended to be at least partially or even completely removed from the composition to be applied by the user.

[0345] The non-volatile phases comprising components a), b), c), d), and e) of the intermediate composition are preferably present in an amount of 50% to 70% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0346] Manufacturing method

[0347] According to a third aspect, the subject matter of the invention is also a method for manufacturing a solid composition in the form of a compacted powder according to the invention from an intermediate composition as defined above.

[0348] The method includes the following steps:

[0349] - The intermediate composition is injected into a cup or mold, preferably via the base of the cup or mold, and

[0350] - Remove water from the intermediate composition, preferably at least partially simultaneously with the injection step.

[0351] Intermediate compositions can be passed through machines, such as the Pilate back-injection machine® sold by Plastico (Spain). The composition is injected into one or more molds or cups, from which the water conveying the powdered phase is removed. This water can advantageously be removed by subjecting the intermediate composition to vacuum and / or oven drying and / or microwave drying and / or freeze drying and / or infrared drying. The advantage of such machines is that they can be equipped with several injection heads, allowing for the easy and simultaneous preparation of several different compositions (e.g., with different hues) in the form of compacted powders.

[0352] adjuvants

[0353] The composition may contain other ingredients (auxiliaries) commonly used in cosmetics, such as preservatives, cosmetic activators, moisturizers, UV shielding agents, and fragrances.

[0354] Needless to say, those skilled in the art will carefully select optional adjuvants to be added to the compositions according to the invention, so that the advantageous properties inherently associated with the compositions according to the invention are unaffected or substantially unaffected by the contemplated additions.

[0355] Cosmetic Application

[0356] The composition of the present invention in the form of a compacted powder can be a skin care product.

[0357] The compositions of the present invention in the form of compacted powder can be cosmetic products for use on the skin, especially on the face (such as foundation), on the cheeks (such as blush), or on the eyelids (such as eyeshadow).

[0358] kit

[0359] According to another aspect, the present invention also relates to a cosmetic kit comprising:

[0360] i) A container defining one or more compartments, said container being closed by a closure member; and

[0361] ii) The cosmetic and / or care composition according to the invention placed in the compartment.

[0362] The container can be, for example, in the form of a can or a box.

[0363] The closure member can be in the form of a cap or a tear-off cover. In particular, the closure member may include a cap that is mounted to be movable relative to the container containing the cosmetic and / or care composition by translation or by pivoting.

[0364] It should be understood that, in the context of this invention, the weight percentage given for a compound or family of compounds is always expressed by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0365] Throughout the patent application, unless otherwise stated, the terms “includes a” or “comprises one” shall be understood to mean “including at least one” or “comprising at least one”.

[0366] It should be understood that the following examples are for illustrative purposes only and do not limit the scope of protection granted by this patent application in any way. Example

[0367] An example 1 according to the invention was prepared, comprising a combination of sorbitan isostearate and lysophosphatidylcholine as an emulsifying system, wherein the lysophosphatidylcholine is in the form of a mixture comprising 64% to 82% by weight of glycerol relative to the total weight of the mixture (LysofixLiquid®) and 18% to 36% by weight of soybean extract, wild soybean (soybean) seed extract.

[0368] Example 1a, other than that of the present invention, was prepared. It was the same as Example 1 except that it contained only sorbitol isostearate.

[0369] Example 1b, which is identical to Example 1 except that it contains a combination of dehydrated sorbitan isostearate and polysorbate-80 surfactant as a substitute for lysophosphatidylcholine as an emulsifying system.

[0370]

[0371] AM = Active Materials

[0372] Preparation method:

[0373] Use the following procedure to prepare Examples 1, 1a, and 1b.

[0374] Preparation of Phase 1:

[0375] The compound of phase 1 and the pigment of phase 1 were weighed in a stainless steel crucible and then ground using an automatic grinder, first at 1500 rpm for 15 seconds at a time and then at 3000 rpm for 1 minute at a time.

[0376] Preparation of Phase 2:

[0377] Weigh out the mother-of-pearl of phase 2 in the second crucible and add it to phase 1. Then grind the preparation (phase 1 + phase 2) twice at 1500 rpm for 15 seconds in an automatic grinder (R5 or R5 plus).

[0378] Incorporation of Phase 3:

[0379] Weigh out the compound of phase 3 in a 250 ml beaker and then heat it in a water bath at 75°C. When phase 3 melts, stir it using a deflocculation centrifuge (Turbotest 33 / 300 PH® - Rayneri, VMI Group) until a vortex is formed (approximately 300 rpm), and then add it to the preparation (phase 1 + phase 2) in one go over 1 minute with stirring at 1500 rpm via a pulverizer cap.

[0380] Preparation of phase 4:

[0381] Weigh out the compound of phase 4, which has been premixed with a deflocculation centrifuge, in a small stainless steel crucible, add it to the remaining preparation, and then grind it in an automatic grinder, first at 1500 rpm for 1 minute once, then at 3000 rpm for 2 minutes twice, and finally at 3000 rpm for 1 minute once.

[0382] Preparation complete:

[0383] Each powder obtained is then diluted in demineralized water. The amount of water is between 30% and 50% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition to obtain a viscosity suitable for the Pilate back-injection machine sold by Plastico (Spain). This back-injection machine allows the "powder-water" mixture (also known as slurry) to be injected through the base of the cup while simultaneously removing a portion of the dilution water by suction. Throughout the product injection process, the injection mold is placed under vacuum to allow water removal, which is then extracted by suction and recovered in a vacuum trap. Thus, being placed under vacuum promotes cup filling and homogenization.

[0384] The back-injected parts were then placed in a ventilated oven at 50°C until their weight no longer changed. The product was then considered dry. Each powder obtained contained 0.5% water by weight.

[0385] Hardness measurement

[0386] Zwick hardness measurements were performed on each type of compacted powder obtained. The hardness measurement was conducted using a truncated measuring tip, with a measuring force applied to the test sample. The tip penetrated the sample, and the hardness tester measured its displacement into the powder. This displacement was converted to Shore A hardness units. A cup was placed at the center below the measuring tip of the hardness tester, and values ​​were read from three different cups to obtain an average value.

[0387] result :

[0388]

[0389] It was found that Example 1 of the present invention (which contains sorbitan isostearate and lysophosphatidylcholine as an emulsion system) has about half the average hardness of Example 1a (which contains only sorbitan isostearate) and Example 1b (which contains a combination of sorbitan isostearate and polysorbate-80) outside the present invention.

[0390] Measurement of sediment intensity (release) / uniformity of deposits applied with a sponge

[0391] Material

[0392] - Lancôme Dual Finish® Sponge Applicator

[0393] - Supplale® support (manufacturer: Idemistupetrochemical; composition: collagen sheet with biomimetic relief bonded to fabric), preheated to 32°C on a hot plate;

[0394] - A cup that has been used at least once and has no visual damage.

[0395] Measurement principle

[0396] Place a piece of Supplale® on a hot plate to temper it to 32°C.

[0397] Each test product is picked up by making three lateral movements while keeping the sponge at an angle of approximately 45° to the powder surface and parallel to the direction of movement.

[0398] Then, by maintaining the sponge at an angle of approximately 45° relative to the Supplale® surface and parallel to the direction of movement, apply each test product to the Supplale® in one lateral movement. The application area is approximately 7 cm in length × the width of the sponge.

[0399] The results are then scored on a scale of 0 to 5 based on their intensity relative to a preset limit.

[0400] 5 is equivalent to very good

[0401] 4 is equivalent to good

[0402] 3 is equivalent to medium.

[0403] 2 is equivalent to ordinary

[0404] 1 is equivalent to difference

[0405] 0 is equivalent to "not allowed".

[0406] A difference of at least 1 is considered significant.

[0407] The results of the comparative test are given in the table below:

[0408]

[0409] It was observed that, compared to Example 1a (which contains only sorbitol isostearate) outside the present invention, and compared to Example 1b (which contains a combination of sorbitol isostearate and polysorbate-80) outside the present invention, Example 1 according to the present invention (which contains an sorbitol isostearate emulsion system and lysophospholipids) has a higher strength and more uniform product deposit (release) on the skin.

Claims

1. A solid composition in the form of a compacted powder, said solid composition particularly comprising a physiologically acceptable medium and containing at least: a) A powdered phase, comprising at least 35% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. b) At least one non-volatile oil, and c) At least one organopolysiloxane elastomer in gel form, said gel comprising an elastomeric organopolysiloxane contained in at least one hydrocarbon-based oil and / or a silicone oil, and d) At least one emulsification system, said at least one emulsification system comprising: i) At least one nonionic surfactant having an HLB value of less than or equal to 8.0 at 25°C, and ii) at least one lysophospholipid; and e) At least one hydrophilic gelling agent; The composition is obtained from an intermediate composition by a method comprising, in addition to components a), b), c), d), and e), water in an amount ranging from 30% to 60% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, wherein the method comprises at least the following steps: 1) The intermediate composition is injected into a mold, preferably via the base of the mold, and 2) Remove water from the intermediate composition, preferably at least partially simultaneously with the injection step.

2. The composition according to claim 1, comprising less than 3.0% by weight and preferably less than 2.0% by weight of water relative to the total weight of the composition, or even containing no water.

3. The composition according to claim 1 or 2, comprising a solid content of 90.0%, more preferably 95.0%, or even 97.0%.

4. The composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein, The content of the powdered phase is greater than or equal to 40.0% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, more particularly ranging from 50% to 80% by weight, and even more preferably from 60% to 75% by weight.

5. The composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein, The powdered phase comprises at least one filler, and more preferably at least one filler and at least one granular dye.

6. The composition according to claim 5, wherein, The filler used in the compositions of the present invention is present in a content ranging from 30% to 80% by weight, more preferably from 35% to 50% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

7. The composition according to claim 5 or 6, wherein, The filler is selected from talc, natural mica, synthetic mica such as fluorophlogopite, magnesium aluminum silicate, lauroyl lysine, natural starch such as natural corn starch with INCI name: maize starch, and mixtures thereof.

8. The composition according to claim 5, wherein, The granular dye is selected from pigments, mother-of-pearl, reflective particles, and mixtures thereof.

9. The composition according to claim 8, wherein, The granular dye is selected from: - Titanium dioxide (CI: 77891); - Yellow iron oxide (CI: 77492), red iron oxide (CI: 77491), black iron oxide (CI: 77499), and mixtures thereof; - Mother-of-pearl, such as those based on mica coated with titanium dioxide and / or iron oxide; those based on mica, barium sulfate and titanium dioxide; - Bismuth oxychloride; - Its mixture.

10. The composition according to claim 8 or 9, wherein, The pigment content is less than or equal to 30.0% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably 2% to 20% by weight and more preferably 4% to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

11. The composition according to claim 8 or 9, wherein, The mother-of-pearl content is less than or equal to 50.0% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably 20% to 50% by weight, and more preferably 20% to 40% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

12. The composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein, The non-volatile oil is present in the composition in a preferably range of 5% to 20% by weight and more preferably 7% to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition of the present invention.

13. The composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein, The non-volatile oil is selected from synthetic esters, fatty alcohols that are liquid at room temperature and have branched and / or unsaturated carbon chains containing 12 to 26 carbon atoms, and mixtures thereof, and more particularly from isotriadecyl isononanoate, octyldodecyl alcohol, and mixtures thereof.

14. The composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein, The gel-form organopolysiloxane elastomer is selected from those having the following INCI names: - Polydimethylsiloxane / vinyl polydimethylsiloxane crosslinked polymer (and) polydimethylsiloxane; - Polydimethylsiloxane / vinyl polydimethylsiloxane crosslinked polymer (and) cyclopentasiloxane; - Cyclopentasiloxane (and) polydimethylsiloxane crosslinked polymers; - Polydimethylsiloxane (and) polydimethylsiloxane crosslinked polymers, and more particularly polydimethylsiloxane (and) polydimethylsiloxane / vinyl polydimethylsiloxane crosslinked polymers.

15. The composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein, The gel-form organopolysiloxane elastomer is present in a solid content ranging from 0.2% to 8% by weight, preferably from 0.5% to 6% by weight, even more preferably from 1.5% to 3% by weight, and even more preferably from 2% to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

16. The composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein, The nonionic surfactant having an HLB of less than 8.0 at 25°C is selected from sorbitol esters, particularly sorbitol monoisostearate.

17. The composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein, The total content of the nonionic surfactant having an HLB of less than 8.0 at 25°C is greater than or equal to 1% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, more preferably greater than or equal to 2% by weight, and more particularly ranging from 1% to 4% by weight.

18. The composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein, The lysophospholipids are selected from: - Also known as lysophosphatidylcholine (LPC), a type of lysophosphatidylcholine. - Lysophosphatidylinositol (LPI) - Lysophosphatidylethanolamine (LPE) - Lysophosphatidyl acid (LPA) - Its mixture.

19. The composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein, The lysophosphatidylcholine or lysophosphatidylcholine (LPC) having the following structure: Where R is an aliphatic fatty acid chain.

20. The composition according to claim 19, wherein, Lysophosphatidylcholine or lysophosphatidylcholine is present in soybean seed extracts, particularly extracts with the INCI name: Wild Soybean (Soybean) Seed Extract.

21. The composition according to claim 20, wherein, The extract having the INCI name: Wild Soybean (Soybean) Seed Extract is in the form of a mixture of the extract and glycerin, and more particularly in the form of a mixture comprising: 64% to 82% by weight of glycerin and 18% to 36% by weight of wild soybean (Soybean) seed extract relative to the total weight of the mixture.

22. The composition according to claim 21, wherein, The mixture of glycerol and wild soybean (soybean) seed extract is present at a concentration of 1% to 10% by weight, more preferably 2% to 6% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

23. The composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein, The hydrophilic gelling agent is selected from polymers of optional modified natural sources, and more particularly from xanthan gum.

24. The composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein, The hydrophilic gelling agent is present in a solid content of greater than or equal to 0.1% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably ranging from 0.2% to 8%, more preferably from 0.5% to 6% by weight, particularly from 1.5% to 3% by weight, and even more particularly from 2% to 3% by weight.

25. An intermediate composition comprising at least the components a), b), c), d), e), and f) of the composition according to any one of the preceding claims, in an amount of water of 30% to 60% by weight relative to the total weight of the intermediate composition.

26. The intermediate composition according to claim 25, wherein, The non-volatile phase comprising components a), b), c), d), and e) is preferably present in an amount of 50% to 70% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

27. A method for manufacturing a solid composition in the form of a compacted powder as defined in any one of claims 1 to 24, the method comprising at least the following steps: - The intermediate composition according to claim 25 or 26 is injected into a cup or mold, the injection preferably via the base of the cup or mold, and - Removal of water from the intermediate composition, preferably at least partially simultaneous with the injection step, particularly by placing the intermediate composition under vacuum and / or oven drying and / or microwave drying and / or freeze drying and / or infrared drying.

28. A beauty kit comprising: i) A container defining one or more compartments, the container being closed by a closure member; and ii) A solid composition in the form of compacted powder as defined in any one of claims 1 to 24 located within the compartment.

29. A method for coating keratin materials, more particularly for cosmetic and / or skin care of keratin materials, characterized in that, The method includes applying the keratin material to the composition in the form of a compacted powder according to any one of claims 1 to 24.

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