A moisturizing, soothing makeup base composition and method of making
By using a combination of black truffle and hops extract with other plant extracts, along with specific processes and fillers, the issues of moisturizing, anti-inflammatory, and stability in base makeup products have been resolved, achieving a long-lasting, soothing, and stable base makeup effect.
Patent Information
- Authority / Receiving Office
- CN · China
- Patent Type
- Applications(China)
- Current Assignee / Owner
- GUANGZHOU BEAUTY KEY COSMETICS CO LTD
- Filing Date
- 2026-05-15
- Publication Date
- 2026-06-16
AI Technical Summary
Existing base makeup products suffer from problems such as short-lived moisturizing effects, weak anti-inflammatory and soothing effects, poor stability of plant extracts, and poor compatibility between emulsion systems and powders, resulting in a poor user experience.
Using *Ichthyophthirius multifiliis* and hops extract as the main plant active ingredients, combined with camellia, rose and dendrobium extracts, extracted and compounded through a specific process, and combined with tallow alcohol polyether-6 and PPG-9 diglyceride to improve stability, and rationally using CI 77891 and CI 77499 powder ingredients, combined with fillers such as silica, hydroxypropyl starch and beeswax, a highly effective moisturizing, soothing and stable base makeup composition is formed.
It achieves long-lasting moisturizing and significant anti-inflammatory and soothing effects, improves the stability and user experience of base makeup products, avoids problems such as layering, water separation and powder agglomeration, and provides a smooth skin feel.
Smart Images

Figure CN122208488A_ABST
Abstract
Description
Technical Field
[0001] This invention relates to the field of daily chemical products technology, specifically to a moisturizing and soothing base makeup composition and its preparation method. Background Technology
[0002] Base makeup products (such as primers, foundations, BB creams, etc.) are an important category in modern daily skincare and makeup routines. Their main functions include correcting skin tone, concealing blemishes, and improving skin texture. As consumers increasingly embrace the concept of "makeup and skincare in one," base makeup products that combine skincare functions with makeup effects are gaining popularity in the market.
[0003] Existing base makeup products often have the following defects: First, the moisturizing effect is short-lived and lacks long-lasting effectiveness. Most commercially available base makeup products mainly rely on conventional moisturizers such as polyols (glycerin, butylene glycol, etc.). The hygroscopic properties of these ingredients diminish significantly after application, failing to meet consumers' needs for all-day, long-lasting hydration. Some products improve moisturizing performance by adding expensive ingredients such as hyaluronic acid and ceramides, but these are costly and have poor compatibility with other base makeup ingredients (such as pigments and film-forming agents), easily leading to problems such as pilling and powder settling.
[0004] Secondly, their anti-inflammatory and soothing effects are weak. Base makeup products need to adhere to the skin for an extended period. If the formula contains irritating ingredients (such as certain color dispersants, preservatives, fragrances, etc.), or if the product's emulsification system is not gentle enough, it can easily trigger skin inflammation, manifesting as redness, stinging, tightness, and other discomfort. Currently, few base makeup products are specifically designed with anti-inflammatory and soothing effects. Even when plant extracts are added, they are often merely conceptual (added in extremely low amounts or using inexpensive extracts), making their actual efficacy difficult to guarantee.
[0005] Third, it is difficult to simultaneously ensure the efficacy and stability of plant extracts. Plant extracts with anti-inflammatory and soothing activities often contain highly polar components such as polyphenols, flavonoids, and terpenes. These components are prone to oxidation, discoloration, or interaction with pigments and emulsifiers in the high-oil, high-powder systems of foundation makeup compositions, leading to product discoloration, layering, precipitation, or reduced efficacy. Maintaining the high activity of extracts while ensuring their stability in complex foundation makeup systems has long been a technical challenge in this field.
[0006] Fourth, the emulsion system has poor compatibility with high-content powders. Base makeup compositions typically require high levels of powder components such as titanium dioxide (CI 77891) and iron oxide pigment (CI 77499) to achieve coverage and color correction. These powders have high surface energy, easily adsorbing emulsifiers or competing with the oil phase at the interface, disrupting the stable structure of the emulsion and leading to problems such as layering, water separation, and powder agglomeration during storage or transportation. Existing technologies often improve stability by increasing the amount of emulsifier or adding thickeners, but this often results in unpleasant skin feel such as oiliness, heaviness, and stickiness.
[0007] Therefore, developing a base makeup composition that combines long-lasting moisturizing, significant soothing, high stability, and a lightweight feel has significant market value and technological significance. Summary of the Invention
[0008] To address the technical problems mentioned in the background art, the present invention provides a moisturizing and soothing base makeup composition and its preparation method. This composition is prepared using moisturizing and soothing plant extracts as raw materials.
[0009] In one aspect, the present invention provides a moisturizing and soothing plant extract, which is composed of 1-3 parts by weight of *Ichthyophthirius multifiliis* extract and 1-3 parts by weight of hop extract.
[0010] Preferably, the moisturizing and soothing plant extracts also contain 1-3 parts camellia extract, 0.8-2.5 parts rose extract and 0.8-2.5 parts dendrobium extract.
[0011] The present invention also provides a method for preparing the aforementioned moisturizing and soothing plant extract, including mixing and filling the extract.
[0012] The present invention also provides a moisturizing and soothing base makeup composition comprising, by weight percentage: 0.1-5% of the aforementioned moisturizing and soothing plant extract; 1.5-3.5% tallow alcohol polyether-6; 1.5-3.5% PPG-9 diglyceride; 2-8% polyol; 2-8% oil; 4-7.5% filler; and the balance being water.
[0013] Preferably, the filler comprises silica, hydroxypropyl starch, beeswax and bentonite in a weight ratio of 1:(0.5-0.8):(0.2-0.4):(0.2-0.4).
[0014] Preferably, the composition further includes 3-7% CI 77891 and 0.1-0.3% CI 77499.
[0015] Preferably, the composition further includes 0.2-1% PEG / PPG-10 / 1 polydimethylsiloxane and 0.3-1.2% PEG / PPG-18 / 18 polydimethylsiloxane.
[0016] Preferably, the composition further includes at least one of 0.1-0.5% preservative, 0.1-0.6% chelating agent, and 0.001-0.08% fragrance.
[0017] Preferably, the polyol in the composition includes at least one of glycerol, butylene glycol, and propylene glycol.
[0018] Preferably, the oil in the composition includes at least one of triglyceride (ethylhexanoate), isononyl isononanoate, caprylic / capric triglyceride, macadamia seed oil, and grape seed oil.
[0019] The present invention also provides a method for preparing the aforementioned moisturizing and soothing base makeup composition, comprising: heating the oil and adding a polyol to mix, thereby obtaining an oil phase; heating the water and adding tallow alcohol polyether-6 and PPG-9 diglyceride to mix, thereby obtaining an aqueous phase; adding the oil phase to the aqueous phase, stirring, then adding the remaining raw materials, stirring, allowing to stand, sterilizing, and filling.
[0020] Compared with the prior art, the beneficial effects of the present invention are as follows: This invention uses *Tuber nigricans* extract and hop extract as plant active components, significantly enhancing anti-inflammatory and soothing properties. The invention employs a combined extraction process of 90-97% ethanol extraction, petroleum ether extraction, gradient elution with different solvent ratios, and 94-97% ethanol treatment to extract *Tuber nigricans*. This process first utilizes the difference in solubility between active ingredients and impurities at 90-97% ethanol concentration, allowing the target active ingredients to selectively enter the solution, while highly polar impurities (sugars, proteins, inorganic salts, etc.) are precipitated and removed, achieving pre-purification in the initial extraction stage. Petroleum ether is used in the extraction stage for specific extraction of active ingredients from *Tuber nigricans*. Furthermore, this invention uses column chromatography with petroleum ether-ethyl acetate elution, optimizing the eluent composition ratio and capturing active components in segments based on polarity differences, thus enhancing soothing properties. Finally, post-treatment with 90-97% high-concentration ethanol further enhances anti-inflammatory activity. This invention utilizes supercritical CO2 extraction of hops, followed by hot ethanol dissolution, and then the addition of 1.5-2.5 times the weight of ethanol in water for further dissolution, combined with a cooling and settling process at 1-5°C. The resulting hop extract exhibits excellent anti-inflammatory effects. The addition of water at 1.5-2.5 times the weight of ethanol and the 1-5°C low-temperature settling process further enhance the anti-inflammatory properties of the hop extract.
[0021] This invention, based on the selection of *Tuber nigricans* extract and hops extract, further optimizes the addition of camellia flower extract, rose flower extract, and dendrobium extract. Camellia flower extract, rich in camellia polyphenols and camellia saponins, can enhance the expression of skin barrier-related proteins; ellagic acid and galloyl glucose in rose flower extract have a dual effect of anti-oxidation and inhibition of hyaluronidase activity, reducing moisture loss; dendrobium polysaccharides in dendrobium extract have excellent film-forming and hygroscopic properties, forming a soft and breathable moisturizing film on the skin surface. The five plant extracts, compounded in a specific ratio, form a "hydrating-locking-soothing-repairing-film-forming" system, significantly increasing the moisture content of the stratum corneum and prolonging the moisturizing effect. This invention verifies that the application of the above extracts in a base makeup composition can effectively moisturize and extend the moisturizing time, achieving long-lasting hydration.
[0022] This invention selects a combination of truffle extract and hop extract in a ratio of 1:0.8 to 1:1.5. The anti-inflammatory activity of both extracts is significantly higher than that of the single extracts, and they have a significant synergistic effect under the combined condition.
[0023] This invention combines tallow alcohol polyether-6 and PPG-9 diglyceride to achieve highly efficient and stable base makeup composition. The combination of the two enhances the stability of the system, increases the shelf life stability of the product and improves the user experience.
[0024] This invention utilizes CI 77891 and CI 77499 pigments, which effectively brighten the complexion. Through a rational combination of pigments, it achieves natural concealing and skin tone correction. Furthermore, it incorporates silica, hydroxypropyl starch, beeswax, and bentonite. Silica, with its porous structure, absorbs sebum and imparts a silky, powdery feel to the product. Hydroxypropyl starch, a naturally derived starch derivative, increases the powder's suspension without affecting its spreadability. Beeswax provides moderate film-forming properties and a smooth, moisturizing feel. Bentonite offers slight thickening and thixotropic properties. The four fillers work synergistically to create a matte, non-drying, soft-focus effect on the skin, avoiding a cakey appearance. Attached Figure Description
[0025] Figure 1 Facial photos of volunteers before using foundation composition D1.
[0026] Figure 2 Facial photos of volunteers after using foundation composition D1.
[0027] Figure 3 Facial photos of volunteers before using the foundation makeup composition D2.
[0028] Figure 4 Facial photos of volunteers after using the D2 foundation makeup composition. Detailed Implementation
[0029] The technical solution of the present invention will be clearly and completely described below with reference to the embodiments of the present invention. Obviously, the described embodiments are only some embodiments of the present invention, and not all embodiments. Based on the embodiments of the present invention, all other embodiments obtained by those skilled in the art without creative effort are within the scope of protection of the present invention.
[0030] The present invention provides a moisturizing and soothing plant extract, which is composed of 1-3 parts by weight of *Ichthyophthirius multifiliis* extract and 1-3 parts by weight of hop extract.
[0031] Preferably, the preparation method of *Tuber nigricans* extract includes: taking *Tuber nigricans* fruiting bodies, crushing them, extracting them with 90-97% ethanol solution, filtering to obtain the extract, concentrating for the first time, redissolving the concentrate in 40-65 wt% ethanol, extracting with petroleum ether, removing water from the extract and concentrating for the second time to obtain an intermediate product, then loading it onto a silica gel column, eluting with petroleum ether and ethyl acetate as eluents, concentrating the eluent for the third time, dissolving it in 94-97% ethanol at 60-70℃, filtering, cooling to crystallize, discarding the supernatant, centrifuging to obtain the crystalline precipitate, and drying to obtain *Tuber nigricans* extract.
[0032] Preferably, in the above preparation method, the weight ratio of the pulverized material to the 90-97% ethanol solution is 1:5-50. The extraction temperature and time are 40-60℃ for 2-6 hours. The first concentration is to 1 / 5-1 / 20 of the weight of the extract. The concentrate is redissolved in 5-15 times its weight of 40-65wt% ethanol. The volume of petroleum ether used for extraction is 1-3 times the volume of the redissolved product. The extract is dehydrated using a drying agent, including anhydrous sodium sulfate or anhydrous magnesium sulfate. The process of concentrating to obtain the intermediate product involves concentrating to remove the petroleum ether. The eluent is obtained by collecting an eluent composed of petroleum ether and ethyl acetate in a volume ratio of 7:3 to 5:5. The process of concentrating the eluent involves removing the eluent. The third concentration is to have a weight ratio of 1:5-1:20 with 94-97% ethanol. Cooling crystallization is carried out by cooling to 1-5℃.
[0033] Preferably, the preparation method of hop extract includes: crushing hops and adding them to a supercritical CO2 extraction vessel; mixing CO2 and 92-97 wt% ethanol as an entrainer and pumping the mixture into the extraction vessel; pressurizing to 20-40 MPa and heating to 35-55°C; statically extracting for 0.4-1.5 hours, followed by dynamic extraction for 2-6 hours; releasing the pressure after extraction to obtain a crude product; dissolving the crude product in anhydrous ethanol; heating and stirring while adding water dropwise to obtain a mixture; cooling and allowing it to stand, discarding the clear liquid; centrifuging; and drying the centrifuged precipitate to obtain the hop extract.
[0034] Preferably, the weight ratio of crude product to anhydrous ethanol is 1:5-20; the amount of water added is 1.5-2.5 times the weight of ethanol. The heating and stirring temperature is 40-55℃. The cooling and settling temperature and time are 1-5℃ and 12-24 hours.
[0035] Preferably, the moisturizing and soothing plant extracts also contain 1-3 parts camellia extract, 0.8-2.5 parts rose extract and 0.8-2.5 parts dendrobium extract.
[0036] Preferably, the camellia flower extract, rose flower extract, and dendrobium extract are obtained by heating, filtering, concentrating, and drying with a 40-65 wt% ethanol solution. The heating and extraction temperature and time are 40-60℃ for 2-10 hours.
[0037] Preferably, the weight ratio of *Ichthyophthirius multifiliis* extract and hop extract in the moisturizing and soothing plant extract is 1:0.8-1.5.
[0038] The present invention also provides a method for preparing the aforementioned moisturizing and soothing plant extract, including mixing and filling the extract.
[0039] The present invention also provides a moisturizing and soothing base makeup composition comprising, by weight percentage: 0.1-5% of the aforementioned moisturizing and soothing plant extract; 1.5-3.5% tallow alcohol polyether-6; 1.5-3.5% PPG-9 diglyceride; 2-8% polyol; 2-8% oil; 4-7.5% filler; and the balance being water.
[0040] Preferably, the weight ratio of tallow alcohol polyether-6 and PPG-9 diglyceride is 0.6-1.2:1.
[0041] Preferably, the filler comprises silica, hydroxypropyl starch, beeswax and bentonite in a weight ratio of 1:(0.5-0.8):(0.2-0.4):(0.2-0.4).
[0042] Preferably, the composition further includes 3-7% CI 77891 and 0.1-0.3% CI 77499.
[0043] Preferably, the composition further includes 0.2-1% PEG / PPG-10 / 1 polydimethylsiloxane and 0.3-1.2% PEG / PPG-18 / 18 polydimethylsiloxane.
[0044] Preferably, the composition further includes at least one of 0.1-0.5% preservative, 0.1-0.6% chelating agent, and 0.001-0.08% fragrance.
[0045] Preferably, the polyol in the composition includes at least one of glycerol, butylene glycol, and propylene glycol.
[0046] Preferably, the oil in the composition includes at least one of triglyceride (ethylhexanoate), isononyl isononanoate, caprylic / capric triglyceride, macadamia seed oil, and grape seed oil.
[0047] The present invention also provides a method for preparing the aforementioned moisturizing and soothing base makeup composition, comprising: heating the oil and adding a polyol to mix, thereby obtaining an oil phase; heating the water and adding tallow alcohol polyether-6 and PPG-9 diglyceride to mix, thereby obtaining an aqueous phase; adding the oil phase to the aqueous phase, stirring, then adding the remaining raw materials, stirring, allowing to stand, sterilizing, and filling. Example 1
[0048] Black truffle extract 1: Fruiting bodies of *Tuber Melanosporum* were pulverized, and particles between 40-200 mesh were collected. A 95wt% ethanol solution (15 times the weight of the particles) was added, and the mixture was heated to 50°C and stirred for 3.5 hours. The extract was then filtered. The extract was slowly heated to 55°C and vacuumed at 0.005 MPa for a first concentration to 1 / 12 of its weight. Ten times the weight of the concentrate (60wt% ethanol) was added to the concentrate for redissolution. Then, 1.5 times the volume of the redissolution was added to petroleum ether for extraction at room temperature with stirring for 3 hours. The mixture was allowed to stand at room temperature for 1 hour to separate layers. The petroleum ether layer was used as the extract. Anhydrous sodium sulfate was added to absorb water for dehydration. The dehydrated product was slowly heated to 35°C and vacuumed at 0.007 MPa for a second concentration to remove the petroleum ether, yielding an intermediate product. This intermediate product was then loaded onto a silica gel column, initially using a 1.5 BV (… The solution was eluted with a mixture of petroleum ether and ethyl acetate in a volume ratio of 9:1 (1.5 times the column bed volume). Then, it was eluted again with a mixture of petroleum ether and ethyl acetate in a volume ratio of 7:3 (1.5 BV) to obtain eluent one. Next, it was eluted again with a mixture of petroleum ether and ethyl acetate in a volume ratio of 5:5 (1.5 BV) to obtain eluent two. Eluents one and two were combined to obtain the eluent. The eluent was slowly heated to 35°C and vacuumed at 0.007 MPa for a third concentration to remove ethyl acetate and petroleum ether, yielding a crude concentrate. This concentrate was then dissolved in 95% ethanol (10 times its weight at 60°C) by stirring. The solution was filtered, and the filtrate was cooled to 3°C and crystallized for 10 hours. The supernatant was discarded, and the precipitate was centrifuged at 4500 rpm for 10 minutes to obtain a crystalline precipitate. This precipitate was freeze-dried at -42°C to constant weight to obtain the *Tuber nigricans* extract.
[0049] Black truffle extract 2: Fruiting bodies of *Tuber Melanosporum* were collected, pulverized, and particles between 40-200 mesh were obtained. A 96.5 wt% ethanol solution (12 times the weight of the particles) was added, and the mixture was heated to 50°C and stirred for 4 hours. The extract was then filtered. The extract was slowly heated to 55°C and vacuumed at 0.005 MPa for a first concentration to 1 / 13 of its weight. A 62 wt% ethanol solution (12 times the weight of the concentrate) was added to the concentrate for redissolution. Then, 1.6 times the volume of the redissolution was added to petroleum ether and stirred for extraction at room temperature for 3.5 hours. The mixture was allowed to stand at room temperature for 1.2 hours to separate layers. The petroleum ether layer was used as the extract. Anhydrous sodium sulfate was added to absorb water for dehydration. The dehydrated product was slowly heated to 35°C and vacuumed at 0.007 MPa for a second concentration to remove the petroleum ether, yielding an intermediate product. This intermediate product was then loaded onto a silica gel column. Elution was performed using a mixture of petroleum ether and ethyl acetate at a volume ratio of 9:1 (1.2 BV). Elution was then repeated with a mixture of petroleum ether and ethyl acetate at a volume ratio of 6:4 (1.6 BV) to obtain eluent one. Elution was then repeated with a mixture of petroleum ether and ethyl acetate at a volume ratio of 5:5 (1.2 BV) to obtain eluent two. Eluents one and two were combined to obtain the eluent. The eluent was slowly heated to 35°C and subjected to vacuum at 0.007 MPa for a third concentration to remove ethyl acetate and petroleum ether, yielding a crude concentrate. This concentrate was then dissolved in 96.5% ethanol (12 times its weight at 60°C) by stirring. The solution was filtered, and the filtrate was cooled to 4°C for crystallization. After 12 hours, the supernatant was discarded, and the precipitate was centrifuged at 4500 rpm for 8 minutes to obtain a crystalline precipitate. The precipitate was then freeze-dried at -45°C to constant weight to obtain the *Tuber nigricans* extract.
[0050] Black Truffle Extract 3: The difference from Black Truffle Extract 1 is that it is added to 80% ethanol at a concentration of 10 times the weight of the crude product and at a temperature of 60°C and stirred to dissolve. The other steps are the same.
[0051] Black Truffle Extract 4: The difference between it and Black Truffle Extract 1 is that the elution process after loading is as follows: the eluent obtained by elution is a mixture of petroleum ether and ethyl acetate at a volume ratio of 8:2 (4.5 BV) is used as the eluting solvent, and the other steps are the same.
[0052] Black Truffle Extract 5: The difference between it and Black Truffle Extract 1 is that the elution solvent does not contain petroleum ether, but the other steps are the same.
[0053] Black Truffle Extract 6: The difference between it and Black Truffle Extract 1 is that the intermediate product is not passed through the column and is directly used as the crude product in Extract 1 for subsequent steps.
[0054] Black Truffle Extract 7: The difference between this extract and Black Truffle Extract 1 is that isohexane is used instead of petroleum ether for extraction, and isohexane with a volume of 1.5 times that of the reconstituted product is added and the mixture is stirred at room temperature for 3 hours. All other steps are the same.
[0055] Hops Extract 1: Hops (HUMULUS LUPULUS) flowers were pulverized, and particles between 100-200 mesh were added to a supercritical CO2 extraction vessel. CO2 and 10% (by volume) of 95 wt% ethanol entrainer were mixed and pumped into the extraction vessel. The pressure was increased to 35 MPa and the temperature was increased to 40°C. Static extraction was performed for 0.6 hours, followed by dynamic extraction for 3 hours while maintaining the temperature and pressure. The CO2 flow rate was 15 L / hour. After extraction, the pressure was released, and the separation conditions in the separation vessel were 8 MPa and 25°C. The extract at the bottom of the separation vessel was collected to obtain a crude product. Then, anhydrous ethanol, 12 times the weight of the crude product, was added to dissolve it. The mixture was heated to 50°C with continuous stirring and water was added dropwise. The amount of water added was twice the weight of the ethanol to obtain a mixture. The mixture was cooled at 2°C and allowed to stand for 20 hours. The supernatant was discarded, and the mixture was centrifuged at 5000 rpm for 0.5 hours. The centrifuged precipitate was freeze-dried at -50°C to constant weight to obtain the hops extract.
[0056] Hops Extract 2: Hops (HUMULUS LUPULUS) flowers were pulverized, and particles between 100-200 mesh were added to a supercritical CO2 extraction vessel. CO2 and 12% (by volume) of 95 wt% ethanol entrainer were mixed and pumped into the extraction vessel. The pressure was increased to 32 MPa and the temperature was increased to 45°C. Static extraction was performed for 0.5 hours, followed by dynamic extraction for 2.5 hours while maintaining the temperature and pressure. The CO2 flow rate was 16.5 L / hour. After extraction, the pressure was released, and the separation conditions in the separation vessel were 7.5 MPa and 30°C. The extract at the bottom of the separation vessel was collected to obtain a crude product. Then, anhydrous ethanol (15 times the weight of the crude product) was added to dissolve the crude product. The mixture was heated to 52°C with continuous stirring and water was added dropwise. The amount of water added was 2.4 times the weight of the ethanol to obtain a mixture. The mixture was cooled at 3°C and allowed to stand for 20 hours. The supernatant was discarded, and the mixture was centrifuged at 4500 rpm for 0.5 hours. The centrifuged precipitate was freeze-dried at -45°C to constant weight to obtain the hops extract.
[0057] Hop Extract 3: Hop flowers (HUMULUS LUPULUS) were pulverized, and particles between 100-200 mesh were added to a supercritical CO2 extraction vessel. CO2 and 10% by volume of 95wt% ethanol entrainer were mixed and pumped into the extraction vessel. The pressure was increased to 35MPa and the temperature was increased to 40℃. Static extraction was performed for 0.6 hours, followed by dynamic extraction at the same temperature and pressure for 3 hours. The CO2 flow rate was 15 L / hour. After extraction, the pressure was released, and the separation conditions in the separation vessel were 8MPa and 25℃. The extract at the bottom of the separation vessel was collected to obtain the hop extract. Example 2
[0058] 1. The anti-inflammatory and soothing effects of the extract prepared above were tested. The test steps are as follows: Grouping: Black Truffle extract groups 1-7 (named A1 to A7 in sequence); Hops extract groups 1-3 (named B1 to B3 in sequence).
[0059] Experimental procedure: RAW264.7 cells were seeded into 24-well plates, with 1.75 × 10⁶ cells per well. 5 Each sample was incubated with 0.5 mL of DEME medium for 24 hours. The medium was then aspirated, and the drugs were administered according to the groups. The extract group was incubated with 0.5 mL of DEME medium (containing 1 μg / mL LPS + 37.5 μg / mL extract), the blank group was incubated with 0.5 mL of DEME medium, and the negative control group was incubated with 0.5 mL of DEME medium (containing 1 μg / mL LPS). Each group was in triplicate. The samples were incubated for another 24 hours. After incubation, the supernatant was collected, and the IL-6 and TNF-α levels in the supernatant were measured according to the ELISA kit instructions. The inhibition rates of IL-6 and TNF-α in the extract group compared to the negative control group were calculated based on the concentrations. The results are shown in Table 1.
[0060] Table 1: IL-6 and TNF-α levels and IL-6 and TNF-α inhibition rates in each group
[0061] According to the tests in Table 1, the extracts of *Ichthyophthirius multifiliis* and hops prepared in this invention both have significant anti-inflammatory activity.
[0062] This invention employs a combined process of 90-97% ethanol extraction, petroleum ether extraction, gradient elution with different solvent ratios, and 94-97% ethanol treatment to obtain an excellent anti-inflammatory and soothing skin active extract from *Tuber nigricans*. A comparison of A1 and A6 revealed that the extract without silica gel column chromatography (A6) showed a significant decrease in activity. A comparison of A1 and A4 showed that the extract using one-step elution (A4) exhibited reduced anti-inflammatory activity, indicating that gradient elution is more effective than single-ratio elution in separating active components. The anti-inflammatory activity of A5 (without petroleum ether elution) also decreased, demonstrating that the elution system using petroleum ether on top of ethyl acetate has high selectivity and can improve anti-inflammatory efficiency. A3, using 80% ethanol crystallization extraction, resulted in a decrease in anti-inflammatory activity. Therefore, this invention's system requires a high concentration of 94-97% ethanol to selectively precipitate active ingredients and enhance anti-inflammatory capabilities. Furthermore, the petroleum ether extraction method is more suitable for this invention's system than other extraction solvents, as can be seen from the comparison of A7 and A1. This invention selects gradient elution and requires the elution product to have a volume ratio of petroleum ether to ethyl acetate of 7:3 to 5:5, which results in an extract with better anti-inflammatory properties. The above content can be obtained by comparing A1 and A4.
[0063] This invention utilizes supercritical CO2 extraction of hops, followed by hot ethanol dissolution, and then the addition of 1.5-2.5 times the weight of ethanol in water for further dissolution, combined with a cooling and settling process at 1-5°C. The resulting hop extract exhibits excellent anti-inflammatory effects. The addition of water at 1.5-2.5 times the weight of ethanol and the 1-5°C low-temperature settling process significantly enhance the anti-inflammatory properties of the hop extract. This can be obtained by comparing B1 and B3.
[0064] 2. The anti-inflammatory and soothing properties of the combined extracts were tested. This invention further investigates the performance of the combination of *Tuber nigricans* extract and hop extract. To achieve optimal results, the combination of *Tuber nigricans* extract 2 (A2) and hop extract 1 (B1) was selected for the study. The testing method was consistent with the previously described method (at the time of administration, the total added concentration of both extracts in the compound group (referred to as group C) was 37.5 μg / mL). The test results are shown in Table 2, where λ represents the weight ratio of *Tuber nigricans* extract 2 to hop extract 1.
[0065] Table 2: Test Results
[0066] As shown in Table 2, the optimal ratio of *Tuber nigricans* extract and hop extract is λ=1:1, at which the TNF-α inhibition rate reaches 67.42% and the IL-6 inhibition rate reaches 60.92%, significantly better than either extract alone, exhibiting the strongest synergistic effect. Within the range of λ=1:0.8 to 1:1.5, the activities are significantly higher than those of the single extracts, demonstrating a significant synergistic effect under combined conditions. At ratios of 1:0.1, 1:0.5, 1:3, 1:7, and 1:20, a simple additive or insignificant synergistic effect is observed, while a weak antagonistic effect is observed at 1:0.05, with even lower performance after combination. Within the ratio range of 1:0.8-1.5, the anti-inflammatory active ingredients contained in both extracts may act on different targets in the inflammatory pathway, exhibiting a synergistic effect, providing a theoretical basis for further development of compound formulations in this invention. Example 3
[0067] Black truffle extract: Black truffle extract 2.
[0068] Hops extract: Hops extract 1.
[0069] Camellia flower extract: Take the flowers of Camellia japonica, crush them, add 12 times their weight of 50wt% ethanol solution, heat to 50℃ and stir for 3 hours, filter, concentrate the filtrate under reduced pressure at 55℃ to 1 / 10 of the filtrate weight, and then freeze dry at -45℃ to constant weight to obtain the extract.
[0070] Rose flower extract: The flowers of French rose (ROSA GALLICA) were crushed and added to a 55wt% ethanol solution with a concentration 15 times their weight. The mixture was heated to 52°C and stirred for 3.2 hours. After filtration, the filtrate was concentrated under reduced pressure at 52°C to 1 / 12 of its weight, and then freeze-dried at -45°C to constant weight.
[0071] Dendrobium extract: The stem of Dendrobium nobile was crushed and added to a 47.5 wt% ethanol solution at 12.5 times its weight. The mixture was heated to 50°C and stirred for 4 hours. After filtration, the filtrate was concentrated under reduced pressure at 57°C to 1 / 10 of its weight and then freeze-dried at -50°C to constant weight.
[0072] Polyols: composed of glycerol, 1,3-butanediol and 1,2-propanediol in a weight ratio of 1:0.3:0.2.
[0073] Oils: composed of triglycerides (ethylhexanoate), isononyl isononanoate, and caprylic / capric triglycerides in a weight ratio of 1:1:1.
[0074] Filler: composed of silica, hydroxypropyl starch, beeswax and bentonite in a weight ratio of 1:0.6:0.3:0.3.
[0075] Preservatives: Phenoxyethanol and sodium benzoate in a weight ratio of 1:0.3.
[0076] Chelating agent: Sodium citrate.
[0077] Makeup base compositions (named D1, 2, 3...n) were prepared according to the ingredient combinations in Table 3. Measurements were taken as weight percentages.
[0078] Table 3: Composition of Base Makeup Composition
[0079] In Table 3, the plant extracts used in D1, D2 to D6 consist of 2 parts by weight of *Ichthyophthirius multifiliis* extract, 2 parts by weight of hop extract, 1.5 parts by weight of camellia extract, 1.8 parts by weight of rose extract, and 1.8 parts by weight of dendrobium extract; the plant extract used in D2 consists of 2.5 parts by weight of *Ichthyophthirius multifiliis* extract, 2.2 parts by weight of hop extract, 1 part by weight of camellia extract, 0.8 parts by weight of rose extract, and 1.2 parts by weight of dendrobium extract. The plant extracts are obtained by mixing and sealing the above-mentioned different plant extracts.
[0080] The preparation methods of base makeup compositions D1 and D2 are as follows: Heat the oil to 75°C, add polyol, and mix at 100 rpm for 10 minutes to obtain the oil phase. Heat the water to 55°C, add tallow alcohol polyether-6 and PPG-9 diglyceride, and mix at 100 rpm for 8 minutes to obtain the aqueous phase. Add the oil phase to the aqueous phase, mix at 65°C and 100 rpm for 20 minutes, then cool to 50°C and add fillers, CI 77891, CI 77499, PEG / PPG-10 / 1 polydimethylsiloxane, and PEG / PPG-18 / 18 polydimethylsiloxane. Stir at 100 rpm for 15 minutes, continue cooling to 40°C, add plant extracts, preservatives, and chelating agents, stir at 100 rpm for 10 minutes, let stand at room temperature for 0.5 hours, sterilize, and fill to obtain the final product.
[0081] The preparation method of the base makeup composition D3 is as follows: Heat the oil to 75°C, add the polyol, and mix at 100 rpm for 10 minutes to obtain the oil phase. Heat the water to 55°C, add tallow alcohol polyether-6 and PPG-9 diglyceride, and mix at 100 rpm for 8 minutes to obtain the aqueous phase. Add the oil phase to the aqueous phase, mix at 65°C and 100 rpm for 20 minutes, then cool to 50°C and add fillers, CI 77891, CI 77499, PEG / PPG-10 / 1 polydimethylsiloxane, and PEG / PPG-18 / 18 polydimethylsiloxane. Stir at 100 rpm for 15 minutes, continue cooling to 40°C, add preservatives and chelating agents, stir at 100 rpm for 10 minutes, let stand at room temperature for 0.5 hours, sterilize, and fill to obtain the final product.
[0082] The preparation method of the base makeup composition D4 is as follows: The oil was heated to 75°C, and polyol was added. The mixture was stirred at 100 rpm for 10 minutes to obtain the oil phase. The water was heated to 55°C, and PEG / PPG-10 / 1 polydimethylsiloxane and PEG / PPG-18 / 18 polydimethylsiloxane were added. The mixture was stirred at 100 rpm for 8 minutes to obtain the aqueous phase. The oil phase was added to the aqueous phase, and the mixture was stirred at 65°C and 100 rpm for 20 minutes. The mixture was then cooled to 50°C, and fillers, CI77891, and CI 77499 were added. The mixture was stirred at 100 rpm for 15 minutes. The mixture was then cooled to 40°C, and plant extracts, preservatives, and chelating agents were added. The mixture was stirred at 100 rpm for 10 minutes. The mixture was allowed to stand at room temperature for 0.5 hours before sterilization and filling.
[0083] The preparation method of the base makeup composition D5 is as follows: The oil was heated to 75°C, polyol was added, and the mixture was stirred at 100 rpm for 10 minutes to obtain the oil phase. The water was heated to 55°C, PPG-9 diglyceride was added, and the mixture was stirred at 100 rpm for 8 minutes to obtain the aqueous phase. The oil phase was added to the aqueous phase, and the mixture was stirred at 65°C and 100 rpm for 20 minutes. The mixture was then cooled to 50°C, and fillers, CI 77891, CI 77499, PEG / PPG-10 / 1 polydimethylsiloxane, and PEG / PPG-18 / 18 polydimethylsiloxane were added. The mixture was stirred at 100 rpm for 15 minutes, and the mixture was further cooled to 40°C. Plant extracts, preservatives, and chelating agents were added, and the mixture was stirred at 100 rpm for 10 minutes. The mixture was allowed to stand at room temperature for 0.5 hours, and then sterilized and filled to obtain the final product.
[0084] The preparation method of the base makeup composition D6 is as follows: Heat the oil to 75°C, add the polyol, and mix at 100 rpm for 10 minutes to obtain the oil phase. Heat the water to 55°C, add tallow alcohol polyether-6, and mix at 100 rpm for 8 minutes to obtain the aqueous phase. Add the oil phase to the aqueous phase, mix at 65°C and 100 rpm for 20 minutes, then cool to 50°C and add fillers, CI 77891, CI 77499, PEG / PPG-10 / 1 polydimethylsiloxane, and PEG / PPG-18 / 18 polydimethylsiloxane. Stir at 100 rpm for 15 minutes, continue cooling to 40°C, add plant extracts, preservatives, and chelating agents, stir at 100 rpm for 10 minutes, let stand at room temperature for 0.5 hours, sterilize, and fill to obtain the final product. Example 4
[0085] The compositions D1-D6 prepared in Example 3 were subjected to performance tests.
[0086] 1. Moisturizing test The testing method is as follows: Ten female volunteers aged 25-45 were recruited. Each volunteer tested and verified the products D1-D3. Each group of products was tested one week apart to eliminate the mutual influence between products. The specific testing steps are as follows: The volunteers first washed and dried their arms, and sat quietly for half an hour in an environment of 25℃ and 55% relative humidity. Then, the inner frontal area (3cm×3cm) of the volunteer's left arm was used as the experimental area, and 0.03g of the above-mentioned products (D1-D3) was applied to each area. The same area on the right arm was used as a blank control (blank area) without applying the products. After applying the products, at 1 hour, 4 hours and 10 hours, the moisture content of the corresponding experimental area and the blank area was measured using a Corneometer CM825 instrument (skin moisture content was tested at 3 points in each area). The moisture content was then recorded, and the increase rate of moisture content in the experimental area compared with the blank area at different time points was calculated based on the recorded moisture content. The results are shown in Table 4. The rate of increase in moisture content is calculated as follows: (average moisture content of the test area at time N - average moisture content of the blank area at time N) / average moisture content of the blank area at time N.
[0087] Table 4: Rate of Increase in Moisture Content
[0088] According to the test results in Table 4, the base makeup composition of the present invention can effectively moisturize and provide long-lasting moisturizing effect to the skin. Furthermore, by comparing D3 and D1, it can be seen that the plant extracts prepared by the present invention from Truffle extract, hop extract, camellia extract, rose extract and dendrobium extract have a highly efficient moisturizing effect and can effectively enhance the moisturizing effect of the base makeup composition.
[0089] 2. Stability Test The stability of the base makeup composition was tested using centrifugation, specifically in two tests: Test 1 and Test 2. Test 1 involved centrifuging the prepared base makeup composition at 3000 rpm at room temperature for 30 minutes. Test 2 used a higher centrifugation speed of 5000 rpm for 30 minutes at room temperature. The presence of stratification after centrifugation was observed. The results are shown in Table 5.
[0090] Table 5: Stability Test
[0091] Based on the test results in Table 5, it can be seen that D1, D2, and D3 did not separate under the conditions of Test 1 (3000 rpm × 30 min) and Test 2 (5000 rpm × 30 min), indicating that the emulsion systems of D1, D2, and D3 have good mechanical stability. D1-D3 all adopted a nonionic emulsion system composed of tallow alcohol polyether-6 and PPG-9 diglyceride, supplemented with two kinds of organosilicon emulsifiers, PEG / PPG-10 / 1 polydimethylsiloxane and PEG / PPG-18 / 18 polydimethylsiloxane. The quaternary emulsifiers work together to form a dense and flexible interfacial film that can withstand high-intensity centrifugal force without demulsification.
[0092] D4 showed stratification in test 1 and also in test 2; D4 did not use tallow alcohol polyether-6 and PPG-9 diglyceride. Although the amount of PEG / PPG-10 / 1 polydimethylsiloxane and PEG / PPG-18 / 18 polydimethylsiloxane was increased, the stability of the resulting emulsion system was reduced, and it quickly demulsified and stratified after centrifugation.
[0093] D5, lacking tallow ether-6 but with the amount of PPG-9 diglyceride increased to 4.5%, did not separate in test 1 but separated in test 2 (5000 rpm). The interfacial film could not withstand stronger mechanical damage, resulting in demulsification and separation. D6, lacking PPG-9 diglyceride but with the amount of tallow ether-6 increased to 4.5%, did not separate in test 1 but separated in test 2. The interfacial film in this system lacked toughness and steric hindrance, leading to separation. A comparison of tests D5, D6, and D1 shows that the combination of tallow ether-6 and PPG-9 diglyceride in this invention achieves high efficiency and stability in the base makeup composition. The synergistic effect of the two enhances the system stability, increases the product's shelf-life stability, and improves the user experience.
[0094] 3. Application Testing After completing Test 1 (Moisturizing Test 1), volunteers were randomly divided into two groups (5 people in each group), using foundation makeup compositions D1 and D2 respectively. Usage: Take 1.2g of product and apply evenly to the face; then, a questionnaire and photos were taken to evaluate the application effect. Volunteers in both groups reported that the foundation makeup compositions were easy to spread during application, had a fine texture, and left a light, comfortable feel after application, effectively brightening the skin. (See attached image.) Figure 1-2 These are before-and-after photos of a volunteer's face after using the D1 foundation makeup product; and Figure 3-4 This is a comparison photo of another volunteer's face before and after using foundation composition D2; the test showed that both foundation compositions D1 and D2 can effectively conceal blemishes and brighten the complexion, resulting in an even facial makeup look.
[0095] It will be apparent to those skilled in the art that the present invention is not limited to the details of the exemplary embodiments described above, and that the invention can be implemented in other specific forms without departing from the spirit or essential characteristics of the invention. Therefore, the embodiments should be considered in all respects as exemplary and non-limiting, and the scope of the invention is defined by the appended claims rather than the foregoing description. Thus, it is intended that all variations falling within the meaning and scope of equivalents of the claims be included within the present invention.
Claims
1. A moisturizing and soothing plant extract, characterized in that, It consists of 1-3 parts by weight of *Ichthyophthirius multifiliis* extract and 1-3 parts by weight of hop extract.
2. The moisturizing and soothing plant extract according to claim 1, characterized in that, It also contains 1-3 parts camellia extract, 0.8-2.5 parts rose extract and 0.8-2.5 parts dendrobium extract.
3. A moisturizing and soothing plant extract according to claim 1 or 2, characterized in that, The weight ratio of *Ichthyophthirius multifiliis* extract to hop extract is 1:0.8-1.
5.
4. A method for preparing a moisturizing and soothing plant extract according to any one of claims 1-3, characterized in that, This includes mixing and bottling the extracts.
5. A moisturizing and soothing base makeup composition, characterized in that, The product comprises, by weight percentage: 0.1-5% of a moisturizing and soothing plant extract as described in any one of claims 1-3; 1.5-3.5% tallow alcohol polyether-6; 1.5-3.5% PPG-9 diglyceride; 2-8% polyol; 2-8% oil; 4-7.5% filler; and the balance being water.
6. The moisturizing and soothing base makeup composition according to claim 5, characterized in that, The weight ratio of tallow alcohol polyether-6 to PPG-9 diglyceride is 0.6-1.2:
1.
7. The moisturizing and soothing base makeup composition according to claim 5, characterized in that, The filler comprises silica, hydroxypropyl starch, beeswax and bentonite in a weight ratio of 1:(0.5-0.8):(0.2-0.4):(0.2-0.4).
8. The moisturizing and soothing base makeup composition according to claim 5, characterized in that, It also includes 3-7% CI 77891 and 0.1-0.3% CI 77499; And / or, also includes 0.2-1% PEG / PPG-10 / 1 polydimethylsiloxane and 0.3-1.2% PEG / PPG-18 / 18 polydimethylsiloxane; And / or, it also includes at least one of 0.1-0.5% preservative, 0.1-0.6% chelating agent, and 0.001-0.08% fragrance.
9. The moisturizing and soothing base makeup composition according to claim 5, characterized in that, Polyols include at least one of glycerol, butylene glycol and propylene glycol; oils include at least one of triglyceride (ethylhexanoate), isononyl isononanoate, caprylic / capric triglyceride, macadamia seed oil and grape seed oil.
10. A method for preparing a moisturizing and soothing base makeup composition according to any one of claims 5-9, characterized in that, include: The oil is heated and mixed with polyol to obtain the oil phase; the water is heated and mixed with tallow alcohol polyether-6 and PPG-9 diglyceride to obtain the aqueous phase; the oil phase is added to the aqueous phase, stirred, and then the remaining raw materials are added, stirred, allowed to stand, sterilized, and filled.