Extract of osmanthus for cosmetic treatment

Abstract

The cosmetic treatment based on osmanthus extract according to the present invention is suitable for preventing and / or reducing unsightly redness of the skin, especially redness caused by sun exposure. This treatment is also suitable for preventing dry skin and increasing cell vitality.

Description

[0001] This invention relates to Osmanthus fragrans ( Osmanthus fragrans The extract or composition containing the extract may be used for non-therapeutic cosmetic treatments, particularly for topical treatments.

[0002] "Cosmetic or cosmeceutical treatment" refers to a treatment applied to healthy skin and / or skin appendages with the aim of improving or beautifying their appearance and condition. This treatment is not for therapeutic purposes. The skin and appendages targeted are healthy and normal, i.e., not diseased.

[0003] This invention relates in particular to the beauty industry, which manufactures products for treating the skin of mammals, animals, or humans, including the scalp, mucous membranes, and appendages (e.g., body hair, eyelashes, eyebrows, nails, hair).

[0004] These industries have an increasing demand for new products, especially new active ingredients derived from plants, because they offer a combination of efficacy, reduced risk of irritation and allergies, reduced side effects, and biodegradability, along with the possibility of labeling / certification and compliance with the logic of sustainable development and / or fair trade.

[0005] At any age, "beautiful" skin will first and foremost mean a radiant and even complexion, with few blemishes and no unsightly redness.

[0006] Redness of the skin and scalp corresponds to skin reactions that can have multiple origins.

[0007] The causes can be external, such as contact with overly irritating skin care or cleansing products or hair products (perming or coloring), or mechanical actions on the skin, such as shaving, scrubbing, hair removal, or friction with clothing or jewelry. Temperature, climate, ultraviolet (UV) radiation, infrared (IR) radiation, air pollution, and the effects of exogenous substances (such as unwanted microorganisms and allergens) can also lead to unsightly redness.

[0008] The causes can also be internal, such as psychological or hormonal stress, or related to sweating.

[0009] Redness is usually caused by discomfort, heat, tightness, and stinging. Therefore, the skin needs to be treated gently to restore not only its evenness and radiance but also its comfort.

[0010] The purpose of this invention is to provide a localized, non-therapeutic cosmetic treatment that meets the cosmetic needs and the demand for active ingredients derived from plants.

[0011] Therefore, the present invention proposes the use of osmanthus extract or compositions comprising it and a physiologically acceptable medium for topical non-therapeutic cosmetic treatments to prevent and / or reduce unsightly redness of the skin.

[0012] Osmanthus fragrans (also known as sweet olive tree) is an evergreen shrub native to East Asia. It is used in the Indian Pharmacopoeia and traditional Chinese medicine due to its many properties, including antitussive, antioxidant, antirheumatic, antimicrobial, antifungal, and anti-aging properties.

[0013] Osmanthus flowers are very fragrant, similar to jasmine, and are used to flavor tea, wine, and some liqueurs. They are also commonly used as seasonings or spices in Asian cuisine.

[0014] Osmanthus extract has been proposed as an anti-glycation agent (Patent JP5969738) or to promote the vitality of epidermal skin cells (Patent CN107456411).

[0015] According to the present invention, the osmanthus extract may be made from the whole plant or from one or more parts of the plant, such as leaves, stems, flowers, fruits, seeds, roots, tubers, and / or pericarps. Preferably, the osmanthus extract according to the present invention is made from the flowers.

[0016] The osmanthus extract according to the present invention can be obtained by conventional solid / liquid extraction techniques, including, for example, maceration, simple decoction, infusion, filtration, leaching, reflux extraction, subcritical or supercritical fluid extraction, extraction by means of ultrasound or microwave or any other physical and / or chemical method (e.g., distillation, percolation, digestion, freeze extraction, enzymatic digestion, etc.).

[0017] "Immersion" refers to a process in which a plant or parts thereof are soaked in an extraction solvent at room temperature.

[0018] "Infusion" refers to a process that involves boiling an extractant and then pouring it onto a plant or part of a plant.

[0019] "Decoction" refers to a process in which plants or parts of plants are mixed with an extraction solvent and then the mixture is heated to a boiling point.

[0020] "Digestion" refers to a process consisting of mixing a plant or part of a plant with an extraction solvent and then heating the mixture below its boiling point.

[0021] Preferably, the osmanthus extract is obtained by extraction using ultrasound or microwave.

[0022] According to the present invention, extraction is carried out in at least one aqueous, hydroalcoholic, glycolic, or lipid solvent or a mixture thereof, or in a polyol selected from pentanediol, sorbitol, butylene glycol, pentylene glycol, propylene glycol, hexanol, caprylic / capric triglycerides, vegetable oils, vegetable milks (e.g., almond, hazelnut, coconut, oat, wheat, soybean, or rice milk) or a mixture thereof, or in an alkaline or acidic aqueous solvent for hydrolysis.

[0023] The duration of ultrasonic extraction can vary from 30 minutes to 3 hours, preferably from 1 hour to 2 hours. The temperature ranges from 10°C to 60°C, preferably at room temperature. The power is 10 to 40 watts per kilogram of the mixture of plant material and solvent.

[0024] According to another aspect of the invention, ultrasonic extraction is carried out in at least one solvent selected from the following: water, glycerol, hydroalcohol, propylene glycol, butanediol, polyethylene glycol of any molecular weight, diethylene glycol monoethyl ether, hexanediol, as well as ethanol, propanol, butanol and other polyols (propylene glycol, pentanediol, hexanol, sorbitol and other liquid sugars), plant milk, and mixtures of all these solvents.

[0025] Preferably, the extraction solvent is aqueous, comprising water or a mixture of at least one glycol solvent and at least one aqueous solvent, more preferably a glycerol / water mixture.

[0026] Preferably, according to the invention, extraction is performed by ultrasound in water or in a glycerol / water mixture.

[0027] According to another aspect of the invention, microwave extraction is carried out in at least one solvent selected from the following: water, glycerol, hydroalcohol, propylene glycol, butanediol, polyethylene glycol of any molecular weight, diethylene glycol monoethyl ether, hexanediol, as well as ethanol, propanol, butanol and other polyols (propylene glycol, pentanediol, hexanol, sorbitol and other liquid sugars), plant milk, and mixtures of all these solvents.

[0028] The extraction duration can vary from 10 to 300 seconds, preferably between 30 and 100 seconds. The power of the microwave generator can vary from 100 to 2000 watts, and the microwave processing frequency is limited to 2000 to 3000 MHz.

[0029] The advantage is that, in fact, the osmanthus extract obtained according to the invention is highly soluble in water and can therefore be formulated into various preparations for topical application.

[0030] In vivo tests are given in the following description, demonstrating the efficacy of treatments using the Osmanthus extract or compositions containing it according to the invention in preventing and / or reducing skin redness. Since the treatments according to the invention are purely cosmetic and non-therapeutic, they do not include treatments for redness caused by burns (especially due to prolonged sun exposure) or by invasive skin actions involving wounds.

[0031] Therefore, the treatment according to the invention is particularly suitable for treating unsightly redness associated with:

[0032] - Exposure to radiation, especially solar radiation, UVA, UVB, IR, visible light (e.g., red, blue or green visible light, which can be used for photobiological modulation (also known as low-energy lasers)), or high-energy radiation in radiotherapy.

[0033] - Climate aggression may be associated with exposure to abnormally high or low temperatures, such as the heat from a bath or wearing coverings that increase skin temperature;

[0034] - Friction between two parts of the skin or friction with another surface that comes into contact with the skin (such as clothing, jewelry, etc.);

[0035] - After tattooing; skin redness may be related to the repeated passage of needles that embed pigment into the dermis; and / or

[0036] - The emotional reaction, known as "flush," is associated with stress, anxiety, and other similar feelings.

[0037] Therefore, the present invention is particularly suitable for treating so-called reactive skin, which is prone to redness after the above-mentioned stimulation.

[0038] According to another aspect, the treatment according to the invention is particularly suitable for increasing the production of adenosine triphosphate (ATP). ATP is one of the main energy sources responsible for cell vitality. For example, a decrease in ATP caused by age or UV exposure can lead to cell death, resulting in slowed cell renewal and nonfunctional cell differentiation, leading to reduced epidermal thickness, which in turn results in a darker, more uneven skin tone and less protection against UV damage. Increased ATP production can counteract these effects by activating cellular respiration and increasing energy production within cells. Consequently, cells become more functional, and the harmful effects of redness are better absorbed by the skin and appear later.

[0039] Advantageously, the treatment according to the invention is also applicable to treating stinging and tightness that often accompany redness. Indeed, as shown in the in vitro tests given below, the Osmanthus extract according to the invention is particularly effective in treating dry skin by increasing hyaluronic acid synthesis. Improved skin hydration restores skin suppleness, thereby calming the skin.

[0040] The cosmetic effects according to the present invention can be considered individually or in combination, taking into account aesthetic properties (i.e., effects on skin color) and sensory properties (i.e., effects on perceived comfort). These effects are beneficial to the skin (including the scalp).

[0041] The treatment according to the invention can be obtained by directly using the extract or by using a composition comprising a physiologically acceptable medium and optionally other active ingredients.

[0042] According to the present invention, "physiologically acceptable medium" means, but is not limited to, aqueous or water-alcohol solutions, water-in-oil emulsions, oil-in-water emulsions, microemulsions, aqueous gels, anhydrous gels, essences, vesicle dispersions or powders.

[0043] "Physiologically acceptable" means that the composition is suitable for topical or transdermal use in contact with the mucous membranes, appendages (nail, hair, and body hair), scalp, and skin of mammals (particularly humans), and that the composition may be ingested or injected into the skin without toxicity, incompatibility, instability, allergic reactions, or other risks. This "physiologically acceptable medium" forms the excipients commonly referred to as the composition.

[0044] According to the present invention, the physiologically acceptable medium can be an aqueous, hydroglycolic, or hydroalcoholic solution, or an oil-in-water emulsion, oil-in-water emulsion, or microemulsion. More preferably, it is hydroglycolic. More preferably, the physiologically acceptable medium is a blend of glycerol and water.

[0045] Therefore, the present invention covers non-therapeutic topical cosmetic treatments suitable for beautifying or improving the appearance and overall condition of skin and / or dandruff, and more specifically for preventing and / or reducing unsightly redness and / or tightness and discomfort of the skin, including topical application of an effective amount of the osmanthus extract according to the invention or a composition comprising such a physiologically acceptable medium to the skin of a subject in need.

[0046] The “effective” amount of the osmanthus extract according to the invention, i.e., its dosage in the composition, depends on the intended use of the composition. This depends on various factors, such as the patient’s age and condition, and the severity of the disease. An effective amount means a non-toxic amount sufficient to achieve the desired effect.

[0047] In cosmetic compositions comprising the osmanthus extract according to the invention, in order to be present in an effective amount, the osmanthus extract is typically present in an amount ranging from 0.000001% to 15% based on the total weight of the composition, preferably in an amount ranging from 0.00001% to 10%, depending on the use of the composition and the more or less obvious desired effect. More preferably, the effective amount is 0.0001% to 5% based on the total weight of the composition.

[0048] Unless otherwise stated, all percentages and proportions used herein are by weight of the total composition, and all measurements were performed at 25°C.

[0049] As a guideline, the European standard dose for facial cosmetic treatments is 2.72 mg / cm² / day / person for creams and 0.5 mg / cm² / day / person for body cosmetic treatments.

[0050] According to other features, the cosmetic treatment method according to the invention can be combined with one or more other treatment methods for the skin (e.g., phototherapy, thermotherapy, or aromatherapy treatment).

[0051] According to the present invention, an apparatus having multiple compartments or packages can be proposed to apply the above-described method, which may include, for example, but not limited to, a first compartment containing a composition containing an osmanthus extract according to the present invention, and a second compartment containing additional active ingredients, wherein the compositions contained in the first and second compartments are considered to be combined compositions for simultaneous, individual or gradual use over time, particularly in one of the above-described processing methods.

[0052] According to other advantageous features, the osmanthus extract according to the invention can be combined with one or more other active ingredients at effective concentrations, which can act synergistically or additionally to enhance and achieve the desired effect.

[0053] Other active ingredients can be selected from, for example, the following pharmaceutical preparations: brightening, anti-redness, anti-spot, body-shaping and soothing active ingredients for treating sensitive skin; radiation filtering (especially UVA, UVB, IR, and blue light); moisturizing, hydrating, exfoliating, smoothing, toning, anti-aging, anti-wrinkle and anti-fine line active ingredients; ingredients that improve mechanical and elastic properties; brightening and detoxifying active ingredients; hair regrowth inhibitors; skin barrier active ingredients; anti-acne active ingredients; sebum secretion inhibitors; shine-reducing active ingredients; skin-unifying active ingredients; soothing active ingredients; antioxidants; free radical scavengers; anti-glycation agents; eye area (anti-dark circles and anti-puffiness) agents; blood circulation activators; peptides, vitamins, ceramides, etc. These active ingredients can be synthetic or derived from plant materials, such as plant extracts or products produced by plant cultivation or fermentation methods.

[0054] For no limitation, the International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary & Handbook, published by the Cosmetic, Toiletry, and Fragrance Association, Inc. (CTFA), Washington, DC, describes a wide variety of cosmetic and pharmaceutical ingredients commonly used in the skincare industry, suitable for use as additional ingredients in compositions according to the invention, provided they are physically and chemically compatible with the other ingredients of the composition, and particularly with the active agents of the invention. Furthermore, the properties of these additional ingredients must not impair the benefits of the active agents of the invention. These additional ingredients may be synthetic or natural, such as plant extracts, or derived from bio-fermentation methods.

[0055] Other skin care actives that are particularly useful in combination with the compositions according to the invention can be found in the marketing literature of Crodarom, Alban Muller, and Sederma, as well as on the website www.croda.fr.

[0056] More specifically, the osmanthus extract according to the invention can be combined with at least one compound selected from the following: vitamin compounds (groups B, C, E, F, D and A), particularly compounds such as nicotinamide or tocopherol, retinoids such as retinol, hyaluronic acid, hexamidine, alpha-lipoic acid, resveratrol or DHEA, peptides, ceramides, UV or IR filters, chemical or physical filters, which are classic active ingredients used in topical cosmetic or dermatological pharmaceutical compositions.

[0057] Furthermore, the present invention provides the use of the osmanthus extract as described above for manufacturing compositions for cosmetic treatments as described above.

[0058] The composition for use according to the invention may be provided in any galen formulation (examples are provided below), the galen formulation being defined according to the use of the composition and the site of application.

[0059] The compositions according to the invention can be applied to the face, body, neckline, scalp, hair, eyelashes, and body hair, in any form known to those skilled in the art or in any medium known to those skilled in the art, particularly in the form of solutions, dispersions, emulsions, pastes, or powders, alone or as a premix; or in a medium, alone or as a premix in a combined form; incorporated into or adsorbed into a carrier, such as macrocapsules, microcapsules or nanocapsules, macrospheres, microspheres or nanospheres, liposomes, oleosomes or chylomicrons, macroparticles, microparticles or nanoparticles, or macrosponges, microsponges or nanosponges, microemulsions or nanoemulsions; or adsorbed onto organic polymer powders, talc, bentonite, spores or outer membranes, and other inorganic or organic supports.

[0060] In the beauty industry, it can be applied specifically to the skin care of the face, body, hair and body hair, as well as the application of makeup, especially eyelashes and eyebrows.

[0061] For example, the composition may be in the form of an emulsion, cream, lotion, milk, solid form, foam, gel, deodorant, antiperspirant, shampoo, conditioner, hair mask, face mask, shower gel, etc.

[0062] Galen formulations can be used in a wide range of personal care and / or beauty products, including skin care, cleansing, makeup, washing, sun protection, tanning, pre-shave, shaving or post-shave, body shaping, moisturizers, humectants, emollients, conditioning agents, exfoliants, astringents, depilatory or antiperspirant, deodorants, perfumes, etc.

[0063] The composition may be incorporated into nonwoven or woven materials having natural or synthetic fibers, wool, or any material intended for skin contact and suitable for use in clothing, including tights and socks, shorts, day or night underwear, tissues, handkerchiefs, or fabrics, to exert its cosmetic effects through skin / textile contact and enable sustained local delivery (cosmetic textiles).

[0064] According to the present invention, woven or nonwoven materials containing at least one osmanthus extract as described above are used in non-therapeutic cosmetic treatments.

[0065] Detailed Explanation

[0066] The invention will be better understood from the following detailed description of the working embodiments and studies.

[0067] 1. Examples of obtaining the Osmanthus extract and compositions comprising the present invention.

[0068] Plant material: Osmanthus fragrans flower.

[0069] Extraction solvent: water or a glycerol / water mixture in a ratio of 25:75 to 80:20.

[0070] Procedure: Osmanthus fragrans flowers were extracted in a solvent using ultrasound for 1 hour and 30 minutes at a power of 22 watts per kilogram of plant material and solvent. The resulting extract was then centrifuged, and the supernatant was collected for filtration. Several consecutive filtrations were performed with pore sizes ranging from 27 to 0.1 µm. The result was the extract according to the invention.

[0071] To obtain the active ingredient according to the invention, the extract obtained above is mixed with a physiologically acceptable matrix consisting of water or a glycerol-water mixture. The glycerol-water ratio in the composition is from 0:100 to 80:20.

[0072] The extract or the active ingredient containing it can be used in cosmetic compositions, examples of which are given below.

[0073] 1. Examples of cosmetic preparations

[0074] The following describes cosmetic preparations comprising the active ingredients described above according to the invention. Additional active ingredients, which support and / or enhance the activity of the active ingredients according to the invention, may be added in a suitable phase according to their hydrophobic, hydrophilic, or amphiphilic properties. These ingredients can be categorized in any way based on one or more functions, application site (body, face, neck, chest, hands, hair, eyelashes, eyebrows, etc.), desired end effect, and target consumer, such as specific anti-aging, anti-wrinkle, moisturizing, anti-dark circle, firming, anti-glycation, body shaping, soothing, muscle relaxation, anti-redness, sensitive skin, anti-stretch mark, and shine control.

[0075] It is recommended that the level of this component in the composition be 1 to 5%, preferably 2%. These levels may vary depending on the desired greater or less significant effect, without departing from the scope of the invention.

[0076] Example: Cream

[0077] [Table 1]

[0078]

[0079]

[0080] plan:

[0081] Swell carbomer in water (phase A), then heat. Weigh and heat B, mix thoroughly. Weigh and melt C, mix thoroughly, and allow to cool. Weigh D, then add D to C. With stirring, add A to C+D and mix thoroughly. Add B to A+C+D, then add E to A+B+C+D and mix thoroughly. Add F to A+B+C+D+E and homogenize. Add G to A+B+C+D+E+F and homogenize.

[0082] 1. Evaluation of different activities of the Osmanthus extract according to the present invention.

[0083] 3.1. Effect on dry skin - maintaining hydration

[0084] principle

[0085] Hyaluronic acid is a major component of the epidermis, contributing to barrier function and maintaining satisfactory skin hydration. It can absorb up to 1000 times its own weight in water. It exists in a water-based, nourishing gel form, filling the spaces between keratinocytes. It prevents dry skin, which is known to alter skin texture, making it feel rough.

[0086] plan

[0087] Human epidermal keratinocytes were cultured in a sub-confluent state and then exposed to the active ingredient according to the invention for 3 days. Following this exposure, hyaluronic acid synthesis was assessed using an ELISA method. Cell counts were estimated using the Hoechst method and used to standardize the results.

[0088] result

[0089] Changes in hyaluronic acid production in keratinocytes. The effect of 3% of the active ingredient according to the invention (n=5) compared to the control:

[0090] [Table 2]

[0091]

[0092] The results showed that the active ingredient according to the present invention significantly increased the synthesis of hyaluronic acid in keratinocytes.

[0093] 3.2. ATP Synthesis

[0094] plan

[0095] Human keratinocytes (HaCaT) were cultured in a confluence state in their culture medium. The cells were then exposed to the active ingredient according to the invention for 2 hours. Luciferin was converted from ATP into a form that could be catalyzed by luciferase (oxidized luciferin). The generated oxidized luciferin (in an excited state) returned to a stable state, emitting measurable yellow-green light (λmax = 565 nm), and therefore the resulting signal was proportional to the amount of ATP in the cells.

[0096] result

[0097] Changes in ATP production in human keratinocytes. The effect of 3% of the active ingredient according to the invention (n=5) compared to the control:

[0098] [Table 3]

[0099]

[0100] The results showed that the active ingredient according to the present invention significantly increased ATP synthesis.

[0101] 3.3. Reduced skin redness

[0102] Test product

[0103] The cream and placebo cream described in point 2 are the same as those in Example 2 below, but do not contain the extract according to the invention.

[0104] Inclusion and Exclusion Criteria

[0105] The study was conducted in a group of 19 healthy volunteers, 9 men and 10 women, with a mean age of 39 years (range 23 to 58 years).

[0106] The inclusion criteria that must be met are:

[0107] - male or female,

[0108] - Ages 18 to 65, and

[0109] - Skin phototype I to III according to the Fitzpatrick scale and not tanned.

[0110] Exclusion criteria that must be met:

[0111] - No skin diseases or other medical conditions that would interfere with the research objectives.

[0112] - For women, not pregnant or breastfeeding, and

[0113] - No uneven skin tone, sunburn, scars or damage were observed in the test area.

[0114] Study type, duration, application

[0115] For seven days prior to the test, volunteers were instructed not to use any topical preparations on the inside of their forearms (the test area).

[0116] First, volunteers applied the test product to the inside of their forearms approximately 15 minutes before UV radiation. A second application was given immediately after radiation, and a final application was given 24 hours after radiation.

[0117] During the study, only water or mild soap provided was permitted for cleaning. Furthermore, volunteers were advised to avoid excessive sun exposure and were prohibited from sunbathing.

[0118] statistics

[0119] For the redness value, a one-tailed paired Student's t-test was used to statistically calculate the parameter value.

[0120] principle

[0121] The purpose of this study is to evaluate the effect of the cream according to the invention on skin redness associated with exposure to UV radiation.

[0122] UV source: 300W xenon arc lamp solar simulator (Model 601 V2.5 Multisport, Solar Light Co.Inc, USA), equipped with a homogenizer. The entire UVA+UVB spectrum meets the requirements of ISO 24444:2019. The uniformity of the solar simulator is measured before each test, and the spectral output is controlled annually.

[0123] Perform radiation equivalent to 1.25 MED (mild but defined). Measurement conditions: Accommodation time: 30 min.

[0124] Room temperature: 21 ± 2℃

[0125] Humidity: 45 ± 10%

[0126] Measurement scheme

[0127] Colorimetric skin measurements were performed on the treated area of ​​the forearm using a MINOLTA™ CM400 spectrophotometer before the first application of the test product (D0), 24 hours after irradiation, before the second application (T=24 hours), and 48 hours after irradiation (T=48 hours). Each measurement was the average of six collections from the same skin area. The mean of the measurements was calculated for each subject.

[0128] A spectrophotometer converts colors perceived by humans into digital codes. Parameter a Used to study the spectrum from green to red. The decrease in the parameter over time indicates a decrease in skin redness.

[0129] result

[0130] Subtract the values ​​measured at T0 from all results to obtain the results related to redness induction, while eliminating the initial condition, namely the natural red tone of the skin.

[0131] Changes in redness (parameter a) (any unit) (N=19).

[0132] [Table 4]

[0133]

[0134] nsd = non-significant data

[0135] The results showed that redness was statistically significantly reduced when the cream according to the invention was used compared to untreated conditions. Redness was not significantly reduced when the placebo cream was used compared to untreated skin.

Claims

1. The use of osmanthus extract or a composition containing it and a physiologically acceptable medium for topical non-therapeutic cosmetic treatment to prevent and / or reduce unsightly redness of the skin.

2. The use according to claim 1, for treating redness caused by: - Exposure to radiation; - Climate stimuli or stimuli associated with exposure to abnormally high or low temperatures; - Friction between two parts of the skin or friction with another surface in contact with the skin; - After getting a tattoo; and / or - Emotional reaction.

3. The use according to claim 1 or 2, wherein the treatment increases the energy production of the cell.

4. The use according to claim 3, wherein the radiation is caused by sunlight.

5. The use according to any one of the preceding claims, for jointly treating dry skin and relieving discomfort associated with tight skin.

6. The use according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the extraction solvent is water or a water / glycerol mixture.

7. The use according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the extract is made from flowers.

8. The use according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the extract is obtained by extraction using ultrasound or microwave.

9. The use according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the osmanthus extract or the composition comprising it is carried by a woven or nonwoven material.

10. A woven or nonwoven material comprising at least one osmanthus extract or a composition comprising a physiologically acceptable medium thereof.

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