A method, device and terminal for simulating generation of near-shore strong nonlinear waves
By acquiring sea surface height data of tsunami waves, utilizing the relationship model between wave speed and water depth changes, and combining momentum and mass conservation equations, tsunami wave velocity is generated. This solves the problem that existing technologies cannot generate strong nonlinear waves near the shore, and enables accurate simulation and quantification of extreme wave disasters.
Patent Information
- Application Number
- CN202610470801.7
- Authority / Receiving Office
- CN · China
- Patent Type
- Applications(China)
- Current Assignee / Owner
- Filing Date
- 2026-04-10
- Publication Date
- 2026-07-21
AI Technical Summary
Existing technologies cannot accurately generate strong nonlinear waves near the shore, especially in extreme sea conditions and shallow nearshore waters, where linear wave theory fails and cannot meet the needs of storm surge disaster research.
By acquiring sea surface height data of tsunami waves, using the relationship model between wave speed and water depth changes, and combining momentum and mass conservation equations, the relationship between wave speed and water depth changes is derived, tsunami wave velocity is generated, and wave propagation and deformation are simulated in computational fluid dynamics simulation software.
It enables the accurate generation of strongly nonlinear waves in computational fluid dynamics models, filling model gaps and enabling more accurate simulation and quantification of the engineering effects of extreme wave disasters.
Smart Images
Figure CN122433587A_ABST
Abstract
Description
Technical Field
[0001] This invention relates to the field of nearshore marine engineering, specifically to a method, apparatus, and terminal for simulating and generating strong nonlinear nearshore waves. Background Technology
[0002] In the fields of marine engineering, coastal engineering, and shipbuilding engineering, accurate prediction of wave loads in the marine environment is a core basis for structural design, safety assessment, and operational decisions. Current technologies typically employ linear wave theories (such as Airy's micro-amplitude wave theory) to simulate and reconstruct wave fields. This theory, based on the small amplitude assumption and neglecting nonlinear terms in free surface boundary conditions, simplifies waves into regular sine waves. It boasts advantages such as high computational efficiency and simple mathematical processing, and therefore was widely used in early engineering practices.
[0003] However, in actual ocean waves, especially in extreme sea conditions (such as typhoons and cold waves) and in shallow nearshore waters, the ratio of wave height to water depth or the ratio of wave height to wavelength cannot be ignored, exhibiting significant nonlinear characteristics.
[0004] However, existing theoretical methods and modeling techniques cannot generate strongly nonlinear waves in computational fluid dynamics (CFD) models. In two-dimensional or three-dimensional CFD models, wave generation requires time series of wave height and velocity at the boundaries. Wave height time series are typically provided by wave height equations or direct wave height observations, while velocity time series are generally based on velocity approximation equations derived from linear shallow water theory. or And adopting the long-wave velocity approximation formula proposed by Goring (1978). A fitting is performed. In the formula, D is the water depth, H is the maximum wave height, α is the wave height equation, and c is the wave speed.
[0005] The above method has high accuracy in fitting wave velocity in deep water. However, when in shallow water near the shore, the nonlinearity of the waves (i.e., the ratio of wave height to water depth) is large, the linear shallow water theory fails, and the above method is no longer applicable to wave generation in this scenario.
[0006] Strong nonlinear waves are also closely related to storm surge disasters in coastal areas. Therefore, how to simulate strong nonlinear waves near the coast is crucial for the study of storm surge disasters. Summary of the Invention
[0007] The purpose of this invention is to overcome the shortcomings of the prior art and provide a method, device and terminal for simulating and generating strong nonlinear waves near the coast, so as to solve the problem that the prior art cannot generate strong nonlinear waves, serve the simulation research and engineering disaster analysis of nearshore storm surges and tsunamis, and meet the research and application needs of the nearshore marine engineering field.
[0008] To achieve the above objectives, the technical solution of the present invention is as follows:
[0009] In a first aspect, the present invention provides a method for simulating and generating nearshore strongly nonlinear waves, comprising:
[0010] Obtain sea surface height data of tsunami waves at a specific location;
[0011] The sea surface height data is input into the relationship model between wave speed change and water depth change, and the relationship model between wave speed change and water depth change outputs wave velocity;
[0012] The tsunami wave is obtained based on the sea surface height data and wave velocity.
[0013] Optionally, the relationship model between wave velocity variation and water depth variation is as follows:
[0014] x The coordinates are horizontal, along the direction of wave propagation; t For time variables, h(x,t) = η + D For instantaneous water depth, η Where is the height of the free surface, and D is the initial water depth. u(x,t) For horizontal flow velocity, c For wave speed, g It is the acceleration due to gravity; Δt For time intervals.
[0015] Optionally, the relationship model between wave velocity variation and water depth variation is obtained in the following way:
[0016] In a wave speed c In a moving reference coordinate system, as the wave moves at a speed... c Propagation, in time intervals Δt Inside, the waveform moved forward a distance. Δx = cΔt ;
[0017] Assuming the waveform is in a short time Δt The interior remains unchanged in shape, and the position remains unchanged. (x+Δx, t) Depth and velocity at the location compared to earlier time points (x, t-Δt) The depth and velocity are the same at that point, that is
[0018] Based on the conservation of momentum and mass, the momentum equation and continuity equation are given: ;
[0019] By combining the two equations above to eliminate the wave velocity c, we obtain a model showing the relationship between wave velocity variation and water depth variation.
[0020] Alternatively, tsunami waves can be obtained in the following ways:
[0021] The sea surface height data and wave velocity are input into the interFoam computational fluid dynamics simulation software solver to generate tsunami waves and simulate their propagation, deformation, and rise within the computational domain.
[0022] Secondly, the present invention provides a device for simulating and generating nearshore strongly nonlinear waves, comprising:
[0023] The sea surface height data acquisition module is used to acquire sea surface height data of tsunami waves at a certain location;
[0024] The wave velocity module is used to input the sea surface height data into the relationship model between wave velocity change and water depth change, and the relationship model between wave velocity change and water depth change outputs the wave velocity.
[0025] The tsunami wave module obtains tsunami waves based on the sea surface height data and wave velocity.
[0026] Thirdly, the present invention provides an electronic device, including a processor, a communication interface, a memory, and a communication bus, wherein the processor, the communication interface, and the memory communicate with each other through the communication bus;
[0027] Memory, used to store computer programs;
[0028] A processor, when executing a program stored in memory, implements the steps of the method for simulating and generating nearshore strong nonlinear waves as described in any of the preceding claims.
[0029] Fourthly, the present invention provides a computer-readable storage medium storing a computer program, characterized in that, when the computer program is executed by a processor, it implements the steps of the simulation generation method for nearshore strong nonlinear waves as described above.
[0030] Compared with the prior art, the advantages of this invention are as follows:
[0031] Compared with existing methods, this invention can accurately generate strong nonlinear waves in computational fluid dynamics models, filling the gap in modeling methods in this area. It lays the foundation for the study of strong nonlinear waves—such as extreme storm surges and tsunami waves—and their engineering effects, thereby enabling a more accurate understanding, simulation, and quantification of the engineering effects of extreme wave disasters. Attached Figure Description
[0032] Figure 1A flowchart illustrating the main steps of the nearshore strong nonlinear wave simulation generation method provided in this application embodiment;
[0033] Figure 2 A data processing logic diagram for the simulation generation method of nearshore strong nonlinear waves provided in the embodiments of this application;
[0034] Figure 3 The simulation results of the wave velocity of two tsunamis using the method of this embodiment are shown in the figure, and the comparison between the wave data and the measured data of the two tsunamis are also shown.
[0035] Figure 4 A comparison chart showing the simulation results using the method of this embodiment and the simulation results using the Goring method above;
[0036] Figure 5 A schematic diagram of the composition of the nearshore strong nonlinear wave simulation generation device provided in the embodiments of this application;
[0037] Figure 6 This is a schematic diagram illustrating the composition of an electronic device provided in an embodiment of this application. Detailed Implementation
[0038] Example:
[0039] The technical solution of the present invention will be further described below with reference to the accompanying drawings and embodiments.
[0040] See Figure 1 As shown, the simulation generation method for nearshore strong nonlinear waves provided in this embodiment mainly includes the following steps:
[0041] Step 1: Obtain time-series data of sea surface height at a specific location for tsunami waves. This example uses tsunami wave records from the 2004 Indian Ocean tsunami and the 2011 Japan tsunami.
[0042] Step 2: Input the sea surface height data into the relationship model between wave speed change and water depth change, and the relationship model between wave speed change and water depth change outputs the wave velocity.
[0043] Specifically, the model relating wave velocity variation to water depth variation is constructed as follows:
[0044] Based on the momentum and continuity equations, a model relating wave velocity changes to water depth changes is derived, and the corresponding wave velocity is calculated using sea surface height data. In a reference coordinate system moving at wave velocity c, as the wave propagates at velocity c, the waveform moves forward a distance Δx = cΔt within a time interval Δt. Assuming the waveform remains unchanged within the short time interval Δt, the depth and velocity at position (x + Δx, t) are the same as those at an earlier time position (x, t - Δt), i.e.
[0045] Based on the conservation of momentum and mass, the momentum equation and continuity equation are given: ;
[0046] in, x Using horizontal coordinates along the direction of wave propagation, t For time variables, h(x,t) = η + D For instantaneous water depth, η Where is the height of the free surface, and D is the initial water depth. u(x,t) For horizontal flow velocity, c For wave speed, g It is the acceleration due to gravity;
[0047] Eliminating wave speed by combining the above two equations c The wave speed increment is obtained. u(x, t) - u(x, t-Δt) And depth ratio h (x, t) / h(x, t-Δt) Relationship model
[0048] Based on the tsunami wave surface height data at a certain location obtained in step 1, the corresponding wave speed is derived through a relational model. Specifically, if the surface height increases with time, the wave speed u(x, t) will be greater than u(x, t-Δt), therefore it takes a positive sign in the equation. If the surface height decreases, u(x, t) will be less than u(x, t-Δt), therefore it takes a negative sign.
[0049] Step 3: Input the sea surface height data from Step 1 and the wave velocity data obtained in Step 2 into the interFoam computational fluid dynamics simulation software solver to generate a tsunami wave and simulate its propagation, deformation, and rise within the computational domain. Figure 2 The diagram shown is a data processing logic diagram of the nearshore strong nonlinear wave simulation generation method provided in this application embodiment.
[0050] The simulation results of the wave velocities of two tsunamis using this invention, and the comparison between the wave data and measured data of the two tsunamis, are shown in the following example. Figure 3 As shown, Figures a and b represent the tsunami wave velocities of 2004 and 2011, derived using the model method of this invention. In Figures c and d, the starred dots represent tsunami wave observation data, and the red solid lines represent the simulation results obtained using this model method, which agree well with the observation data.
[0051] In this embodiment, the existing approximate velocity calculation formulas of the same type used for comparing simulation results include: the velocity approximation equation of linear shallow water theory and the long-wave velocity approximation formula proposed by Goring (1978). Figure 4 A comparison is presented between the simulation results using the method of this invention and the simulation results using the aforementioned approximate flow velocity calculation formula. In the figure, the black solid line represents the target wave height record, the red solid line represents the wave height record simulated using the model method constructed in this invention, which closely matches the target value. The blue dashed and solid lines represent the wave height records simulated based on formulas 1 and 2 of the linear shallow water theory mentioned in Part I, which exhibit significant errors. Furthermore, the Goring method (formula 3) fails to converge, resulting in no simulation results. It is evident that the model method constructed in this invention is accurate and feasible for simulating nonlinear waves.
[0052] Example 2:
[0053] See Figure 5 As shown, the nearshore strong nonlinear wave simulation generation device provided in this embodiment includes:
[0054] The sea surface height data acquisition module is used to acquire sea surface height data of tsunami waves at a certain location; this example uses tsunami wave records from the 2004 Indian Ocean tsunami and the 2011 Japanese tsunami.
[0055] The wave velocity module is used to input the sea surface height data into the relationship model between wave velocity change and water depth change, and the relationship model between wave velocity change and water depth change outputs the wave velocity.
[0056] Specifically, the model relating wave velocity variation to water depth variation is constructed as follows:
[0057] Based on the momentum and continuity equations, a model relating wave velocity changes to water depth changes is derived, and the corresponding wave velocity is calculated using sea surface height data. In a reference coordinate system moving at wave velocity c, as the wave propagates at velocity c, the waveform moves forward a distance Δx = cΔt within a time interval Δt. Assuming the waveform remains unchanged within the short time interval Δt, the depth and velocity at position (x + Δx, t) are the same as those at an earlier time position (x, t - Δt), i.e.
[0058] Based on the conservation of momentum and mass, the momentum equation and continuity equation are given: ;
[0059] in, xUsing horizontal coordinates along the direction of wave propagation, t For time variables, h(x,t) = η + D For instantaneous water depth, η Where is the height of the free surface, and D is the initial water depth. u(x,t) For horizontal flow velocity, c For wave speed, g It is the acceleration due to gravity;
[0060] Eliminating wave speed by combining the above two equations c The wave speed increment is obtained. u(x, t) - u(x, t-Δt) And depth ratio h (x, t) / h(x, t-Δt) Relationship model
[0061] Based on the obtained sea surface height data of tsunami waves at a certain location, the corresponding wave speed is derived through a relational model. Specifically, if the surface height increases with time, the wave speed u(x, t) will be greater than u(x, t-Δt), therefore it takes a positive sign in the equation. If the surface height decreases, u(x, t) will be less than u(x, t-Δt), therefore it takes a negative sign.
[0062] The tsunami wave module obtains tsunami waves based on the sea surface height data and wave velocity.
[0063] Specifically, the wave velocity data is input into the interFoam solver, a computational fluid dynamics simulation software for tsunami wave modules, to generate tsunami waves and simulate their propagation, deformation, and rise within the computational domain.
[0064] Example 3:
[0065] like Figure 6 As shown, this application provides an electronic device including a processor 111, a communication interface 112, a memory 113, and a communication bus 114. The processor 111, the communication interface 112, and the memory 113 communicate with each other through the communication bus 114. The memory 113 is used to store computer programs. When the processor 111 executes the program stored in the memory 113, it implements the steps of the nearshore strong nonlinear wave simulation generation method provided in the aforementioned embodiment 1.
[0066] Example 4:
[0067] This application provides a computer-readable storage medium storing a computer program thereon, which, when executed by a processor, implements the steps of the nearshore strong nonlinear wave simulation generation method provided in Embodiment 1 above.
[0068] The above embodiments are merely illustrative of the technical concept and features of the present invention, and are intended to enable those skilled in the art to understand the content of the present invention and implement it accordingly. They should not be construed as limiting the scope of protection of the present invention. All equivalent changes or modifications made based on the essence of the content of the present invention should be covered within the scope of protection of the present invention.
Claims
1. A method for simulating and generating strong nonlinear waves near the coast, characterized in that, include: Obtain sea surface height data of tsunami waves at a specific location; The sea surface height data is input into the relationship model between wave speed change and water depth change, and the relationship model between wave speed change and water depth change outputs wave velocity; The tsunami wave is obtained based on the sea surface height data and wave velocity.
2. The method for simulating and generating nearshore strong nonlinear waves as described in claim 1, characterized in that, The relationship model between wave velocity variation and water depth variation is as follows: ； x The coordinates are horizontal, along the direction of wave propagation; t For time variables, h(x,t) = η + D For instantaneous water depth, η Where is the height of the free surface, and D is the initial water depth. u(x,t) For horizontal flow velocity, c For wave speed, g It is the acceleration due to gravity; Δt For time intervals.
3. The method for simulating and generating nearshore strong nonlinear waves as described in claim 1, characterized in that, The relationship model between wave velocity variation and water depth variation is obtained as follows: In a wave speed c In a moving reference coordinate system, as the wave moves at a speed... c Propagation, in time intervals Δt Inside, the waveform moved forward a distance. Δx = cΔt ; Assuming the waveform is in a short time Δt The interior remains unchanged in shape, and the position remains unchanged. (x+Δx, t) Depth and velocity at the location compared to earlier time points (x, t-Δt) The depth and velocity are the same at that point, that is Based on the conservation of momentum and mass, the momentum equation and continuity equation are given: ； By combining the two equations above to eliminate the wave velocity c, we obtain a model showing the relationship between wave velocity variation and water depth variation.
4. The method for simulating and generating nearshore strong nonlinear waves as described in claim 2 or 3, characterized in that, Tsunami waves can be obtained in the following way: The sea surface height data and wave velocity are input into the interFoam computational fluid dynamics simulation software solver to generate tsunami waves and simulate their propagation, deformation, and rise within the computational domain.
5. A device for simulating and generating nearshore strong nonlinear waves, characterized in that, include: The sea surface height data acquisition module is used to acquire sea surface height data of tsunami waves at a certain location; The wave velocity module is used to input the sea surface height data into the relationship model between wave velocity change and water depth change, and the relationship model between wave velocity change and water depth change outputs the wave velocity. The tsunami wave module obtains tsunami waves based on the sea surface height data and wave velocity.
6. The nearshore strong nonlinear wave simulation generation device as described in claim 5, characterized in that, The relationship model between wave velocity variation and water depth variation is as follows: ； x The coordinates are horizontal, along the direction of wave propagation; t For time variables, h(x,t) = η + D For instantaneous water depth, η Where is the height of the free surface, and D is the initial water depth. u(x,t) For horizontal flow velocity, c For wave speed, g It is the acceleration due to gravity; Δt For time intervals.
7. The nearshore strong nonlinear wave simulation generation device as described in claim 6, characterized in that, The relationship model between wave velocity variation and water depth variation is obtained as follows: In a wave speed c In a moving reference coordinate system, as the wave moves at a speed... c Propagation, in time intervals Δt Inside, the waveform moved forward a distance. Δx = cΔt ; Assuming the waveform is in a short time Δt The interior remains unchanged in shape, and the position remains unchanged. (x+Δx, t) Depth and velocity at the location compared to earlier time points (x, t-Δt) The depth and velocity are the same at that point, that is Based on the conservation of momentum and mass, the momentum equation and continuity equation are given: ； By combining the two equations above to eliminate the wave velocity c, we obtain a model showing the relationship between wave velocity variation and water depth variation.
8. The device for simulating and generating nearshore strong nonlinear waves as described in claim 6 or 7, characterized in that, Tsunami waves can be obtained in the following way: The sea surface height data and wave velocity are input into the interFoam solver, a computational fluid dynamics simulation software built into the tsunami wave module, to generate tsunami waves and simulate their propagation, deformation, and rise within the computational region.
9. An electronic device, characterized in that, It includes a processor, a communication interface, a memory, and a communication bus, wherein the processor, the communication interface, and the memory communicate with each other through the communication bus; Memory, used to store computer programs; A processor, when executing a program stored in memory, implements the steps of the method for simulating and generating nearshore strong nonlinear waves as described in any one of claims 1-4.
10. A computer-readable storage medium storing a computer program, characterized in that, When the computer program is executed by the processor, it implements the steps of the simulation generation method for nearshore strong nonlinear waves as described in any one of claims 1 to 4.