COSMETIC O / W EMULSION WITH SUCCINOGLUCAN

Description

[0001] The present invention relates to a cosmetic preparation containing succinoglucan.

[0002] The desire to look beautiful and attractive is rooted in human nature. Even though the ideal of beauty has changed over time, the pursuit of a flawless appearance has always been a human goal. The condition and appearance of the skin play a significant role in achieving a beautiful and attractive appearance.

[0003] For the skin to fully perform its biological functions, it requires regular cleansing and care. Cleansing the skin removes dirt, sweat, and dead skin cells, which provide an ideal breeding ground for pathogens and parasites of all kinds. Skin care products primarily moisturize and replenish the skin's natural oils. They often contain active ingredients designed to regenerate the skin and, for example, prevent and reduce premature aging (such as the formation of fine lines and wrinkles).

[0004] Skincare products typically consist of emulsions. Emulsions are generally understood to be heterogeneous systems made up of two immiscible or only partially miscible liquids, usually referred to as phases, in which one of the two liquids is dispersed in the other liquid in the form of very fine droplets. Externally, and to the naked eye, emulsions appear homogeneous.

[0005] If the two liquids are water and oil, and oil droplets are finely dispersed in the water, then it is an oil-in-water emulsion (O / W emulsion, e.g., milk). The basic characteristics of an O / W emulsion are determined by the water. A water-in-oil emulsion (W / O emulsion, e.g., butter) follows the reverse principle, with the basic characteristics here being determined by the oil.

[0006] To keep emulsions stable over a longer period and prevent phase separation, emulsifiers are added. Emulsifiers are generally molecules with one polar, hydrophilic structural element and one nonpolar, lipophilic structural element. In the late 1940s, a system was developed to simplify the selection of emulsifiers. Each emulsifier is assigned an HLB value (a dimensionless number between 0 and 20) that indicates whether it has a preferred water or oil solubility. Values ​​below 8 denote oil-soluble, hydrophobic emulsifiers, while values ​​above 8 denote water-soluble, hydrophilic emulsifiers.

[0007] In the production of an emulsion, the aqueous phase is combined with the lipid phase (oil phase) while stirring, whereby the droplets of the inner phase of the emulsion must be reduced to a size of less than 10 µm in order for the emulsion to become stable.

[0008] When producing oil-in-water (O / W) emulsions with hydrophilic emulsifiers (emulsifiers with an HLB value greater than or equal to 8), a common problem arises: when predominantly medium-polar to polar lipids are used in the oil phase (i.e., lipids with an interfacial tension against water of less than 30 mN / m), an undesirable phase inversion can occur. Furthermore, such O / W emulsions tend to undergo phase inversion during storage, meaning the preparations are often not particularly stable.

[0009] The object of the present invention was therefore to develop an O / W emulsion with hydrophilic emulsifiers or a manufacturing process for an O / W emulsion with hydrophilic emulsifiers, the tendency to undergo phase inversion during manufacturing and / or storage is significantly reduced.

[0010] The surprising solution to this problem can be found in claim 1.

[0011] Although the prior art includes EP 1576943 A1, EP 2308459 A1, WO 2013 / 061712 A1, US 2014 / 030298 A1, DE 102011077060 A1 and EP 3329903 A1, these documents could not point the way to the present invention.

[0012] Succinoglucan is a polysaccharide partially esterified with succinic acid, which can be obtained, for example, as a fermentation product of Agrobacterium tumefaciens. Succinoglucan is released into the surrounding medium as a microbial exopolysaccharide.

[0013] The backbone of succinoglucan consists primarily of glucose monomers, although galactose can also be advantageously incorporated. A particularly advantageous succinoglucan exhibits molar ratios of glucose to galactose such as 8–6:1, and especially approximately 7:1.

[0014] According to the invention, it is advantageous that, on average, every eighth to twelfth sugar molecule of the polymeric backbone is esterified with a molecule of succinic acid, preferably about every tenth sugar molecule.

[0015] It can also be advantageous to bind additional functional molecules to the sugar molecules, for example pyruvic acid, which can be coupled via acetal formation.

[0016] According to the invention, it is advantageous that, on average, every fifth to twentieth sugar molecule of the polymeric backbone is coupled to a molecule of pyruvic acid, preferably about every eighth sugar molecule.

[0017] The chemical structure of succinoglucan is illustrated as follows:

[0018] Succinoglucan is readily soluble in water and can be used as a thickener. The use of succinoglucan in cosmetic emulsions is known to those skilled in the art, but the prior art did not lead to the present invention.

[0019] It is advantageous according to the invention if the emulsion according to the invention is characterized in that the content of succinoglucan in the emulsion is from 0.001 to 5.0 wt.% and preferably between 0.01 and 1.5 wt.%, particularly preferably between 0.1 and 1.0 wt.%, in each case based on the total weight of the emulsion.

[0020] According to the invention, it is advantageous if the emulsion contains one or more oil-in-water emulsifiers (O / W emulsifiers) in a total concentration of 0.05 to 5.0 wt.% and preferably in a total concentration of 2.0 to 4.0 wt.%, in each case based on the total weight of the emulsion.

[0021] According to the invention, it is particularly advantageous if the emulsion according to the invention is characterized in that the content of one or more anionic emulsifiers in the emulsion is from 0.001 to 5.0 wt.% and preferably between 0.05 and 2 wt.%, particularly preferably between 0.1 and 1.0 wt.%, in each case based on the total weight of the emulsion.

[0022] According to the invention, it is particularly advantageous if the emulsion according to the invention is characterized in that the content of one or more non-ionic emulsifiers in the emulsion is from 0.001 to 5.0 wt.% and preferably between 0.05 and 3 wt.%, particularly preferably between 0.1 and 2 wt.%, in each case based on the total weight of the emulsion.

[0023] It is in accordance with the invention if the emulsion according to the invention is characterized in that glyceryl stearate citrate (CAS 39175-72-9, INCI Glyceryl Stearate Citrate, e.g. Imwitor 370 from Hüls), polyglyceryl-3 methylglucose distearate (INCI Polyglyceryl Methyl Glucose Distearate, e.g. Tego Care 450 from Evonik), cetearyl glucosides and / or polyethylene glycol(2000) monostearate (INCI; PEG-40 stearate) are used as O / W emulsifiers.

[0024] In a further embodiment according to the invention, the emulsion according to the invention contains potassium cetyl phosphate, sodium cetearyl sulfate, sodium stearyl glutamate, alkali salts of saturated fatty acids of chain length C14-C22, in particular sodium stearate as an anionic emulsifier.

[0025] In a further embodiment of the invention, the emulsion contains one or more polyglyceryl fatty acid esters as non-ionic emulsifiers. The polyglyceryl fatty acid ester particularly preferred according to the invention is polyglyceryl-10 stearate (INCI: polyglyceryl-10 stearate).

[0026] According to the invention, it is particularly advantageous if the emulsion according to the invention is characterized in that the content of one or more anionic emulsifiers in the emulsion is from 0.001 to 5.0 wt.% and preferably between 0.05 and 2 wt.%, particularly preferably between 0.1 and 1.0 wt.%, in each case based on the total weight of the emulsion.

[0027] According to the invention, it is particularly advantageous if the emulsion according to the invention is characterized in that the content of one or more non-ionic emulsifiers, in particular one or more polyglyceryl fatty acid esters, especially polyglyceryl-10 stearate, in the emulsion is 0.001 to 5.0 wt.% and preferably between 0.05 and 3 wt.%, particularly preferably between 0.1 and 2.0 wt.%, in each case based on the total weight of the emulsion.

[0028] The emulsion according to the invention can have the consistency of an ointment, cream or thin lotion, or can represent an ointment, cream or thin lotion.

[0029] According to the invention, it is preferred if the inventive method is carried out in the form of the hot-hot method. In this method, a hot oil and water phase are combined.

[0030] According to the invention, it is particularly preferred if the process is carried out at a temperature not exceeding 85 °C.

[0031] According to the invention, the emulsion can advantageously be in the form of an ointment, cream or lotion (possibly sprayable).

[0032] According to the invention, the emulsion can also be advantageously used as a spray or as an impregnating medium for a plaster or cloth. Therefore, plasters and cloths are also impregnated with the emulsion according to the invention.

[0033] The aqueous phase of the emulsion according to the invention can advantageously contain conventional cosmetic excipients, such as alcohols, in particular those with a low carbon number, preferably ethanol and / or isopropanol, diols or polyols with a low carbon number and their ethers, preferably propylene glycol, glycerin, ethylene glycol, ethylene glycol monoethyl or monobutyl ether, hexanediol, octanediol, glyceryl caprylate, ethylhexylglycerin, methylpropanediol, propylene glycol monomethyl, monoethyl or monobutyl ether, diethylene glycol monomethyl or monoethyl ether, and analogous products, furthermore phenoxyethanol, hydroxyacetophenones, benzyl alcohol, benzethonium chloride, polymers, foam stabilizers, electrolytes, self-tanning agents, repellents and in particular one or more thickening agents, which or which can advantageously be selected from the group of polysaccharides or their derivatives, e.g. xanthan gum, Carrageenan, gellan gum, starches and celluloses, hyaluronic acid.

[0034] The oil phase according to the invention can contain all conventional components of oil, fat and wax used in cosmetics.

[0035] The emulsion according to the invention can advantageously contain cosmetic active and conditioning agents, for example, UV light filters approved under the Cosmetics Regulation. According to the invention, such active ingredients can advantageously be contained in the preparation in concentrations of 0.01 to 30% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparation.

[0036] Other conditioning agents may include, in particular, niacinamide, panthenol, aloe vera, vitamin E, tocopheryl acetate, vitamin A, vitamin A derivatives, vitamin C, vitamin C derivatives, coenzyme Q10 (ubiquinone), creatine, taurine, folic acid, alpha-glycosylrutin, amino acids (e.g., glycine, histidine, alanine, arginine), carnosine, unsaturated fatty acids and their esters, especially di- and triglycerides (e.g., gamma-linolenic acid, linoleic acid, oleic acid), mannose, magnolia bark extract, magnolol, honokiol, milk thistle extracts, silymarin, urea, 4-butylresorcinol, N-((2,4-dihydroxyphenyl)thiazol-2-yl)-isobutyramide, and components of licorice extracts such as glycyrrhetinic acid and licochalcone A in concentrations of 0.001 to 5 % by weight, based on the total weight of the preparation, should be used.

[0037] According to the invention, the preparation preferably contains alpha-hydroxy acids and / or their salts as further components. Lactic acid / lactates or citric acid / citrates are preferably used in a concentration of 0.01 to 5% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparation.

[0038] The preparation according to the invention can contain perfume substances in any composition and quantity.

[0039] The following examples are intended to illustrate the present invention without limiting it. All values ​​are given in wt.% unless otherwise stated. Recipe examples:

[0040] phase Ingredients Example 1 Example 2 Example 3 Example 4 Phase A Glycerin 5 5 5 5 Aqua ad 100 ad 100 ad 100 ad 100 Sodium cetearyl sulfate 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2 Phase B Succinoglycan gum - 0.3 - - Xanthan gum - - 0.3 - Carrageenan - - - 0.3 Phase C Cetearyl alcohol 2 2 2 2 Hydrogenated coco-glycerides 2 2 2 2 Dicaprylyl ether 8 8 8 8 Phase D Phenoxyethanol 0.8 0.8 0.8 0.8 Methylparaben 0.3 0.3 0.3 0.3 Trisodium EDTA 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2 storage At room temperature After 24 hours stable stable stable stable Day 7 stable stable stable stable at 40°C After 24 hours stable stable stable stable Day 7 Phase separation after 4 days stable Phase separation Phase separation after 4 days at 50°C After 24 hours stable stable stable stable 12-hour cycle from -10°C to 40°C Day 6 Phase separation stable stable stable phase Ingredients Example 5 Example 6 Example 7 Phase A Glycerin 5 5 5 Aqua ad 100 ad 100 ad 100 Phase B Succinoglycan gum - 0.3 - Carrageenan - - 0.3 Phase C Cetearyl alcohol 2 2 2 Hydrogenated coco-glycerides 2 2 2 Dicaprylyl ether 8 8 8 Polyglyceryl-10 stearate 0.9 0.9 0.9 Phase D Phenoxyethanol 0.8 0.8 0.8 Methylparaben 0.3 0.3 0.3 Trisodium EDTA 0.2 0.2 0.2 storage At room temperature Day 1 stable stable stable Day 7 stable stable Phase separation at 40°C Day 1 stable stable stable Day 7 Phase separation stable Phase separation after 4 hours at 50°C Day 1 Phase separation after 5 hours stable Phase separation after 5 hours Day 7 - Phase separation after 4 days - 12-hour cycle from -10°C to 40°C Day 6 Phase separation after 5 hours stable Phase separation Example A % by weight O / W cream Sodium stearoylglutamate 0,3 Glycerol monostearate 3 C 12-15 Alkyl benzoate 2 Dicaprylyl ether 2 Octyldodecanol 2 Caprylic acid / capric triglycerides 1 Jojoba oil 0,5 Tocopheryl acetate 0,3 N-((2,4-Dihydroxyphenyl)thiazol-2-yl)-isobutyramide, 0,1 Phenoxyethanol 0,7 Succinoglucan gum 0,3 Octanediol 0,3 Benzethonium chloride 0,05 Hydroxyacetophenone 0,2 Glycerin 7 Fillers / Additives (Tocopherol, EDTA) 0,1 perfume qs Water ad 100 Example B % by weight O / W day cream Sodium cetylstearyl sulfate 0,2 Sorbitan monostearate 2 Cetearyl alcohol 1 C 12-15 Alkyl benzoate 3 Caprylic acid / capric triglycerides 2 Dicaprylyl carbonate 2 Octyldodecanol 1 Argan oil 0,2 Octocrylene 2 Butylmethoxydibenzoylmethane (e.g. Parsol ®< 1789) 1 Octyl salicylate 2 Tapioca starch 0,5 Glycyrrhetinic acid 0.1 Creatin 0,1 Phenoxyethanol 0,8 Hexanediol 1 Succinoglucan gum 0,2 Glycerin 7 Additive (Xanthan Gum, TiO2) 0,6 perfume qs Water ad 100 pH 6

[0041] Example C % by weight O / W cream Stearic acid 2 Sorbitan monostearate 1 Cetearyl alcohol 2 Isopropyl palmitate 3 Ethylhexyl stearate 1 Hydrogenated Coco Glycerides 1 C 12-15 Alkyl benzoate 2 Dibutyl adipates 1 Niacinamide 0,1 Coenzyme Q10 (ubiquinone) 0,1 Lactic acid sodium salt 0,2 Methylpropanediol 2 Phenoxyethanol 0,5 Benzyl alcohol 0,2 Succinoglucan gum 0,5 Hyaluronic acid, sodium salt 0,1 NaOH aq qs Glycerin 8 Additives (EDTA, carrageenan, gellan gum HA) 0,3 perfume qs Water ad 100 pH 6

[0042] Example D % by weight O / W Cream Sodium cetylstearyl sulfate 0,3 Sorbitan monostearate 2 Cetyl alcohol 1 C 12-15 Alkyl benzoate 2 Shea butter 0,5 Caprylic acid / capric triglycerides 3 Dicaprylyl carbonate 2 Dicaprylyl ether 1 Ethylhexyl cocoate 1 Isohexadecan 1 Sodium citric acid qs. Phenoxyethanol 0,8 Dipropylene glycol 1 Benzyl alcohol 0,3 Glycyrrhiza inflata extract (Licochalcone A) 0,1 Ethylhexylglycerin 0,4 Succinoglucan gum 0,2 EDTA 0,2 Ethanol 1 Glycerin 5 Additives (EDTA, Locust bean gum, Sclerotium gum) 0,6 NaOH aq qs perfume qs Water ad 100 pH 5.2

[0043] Example E % by weight O / W cream Potassium cetyl phosphate 1 Glyceryl stearate 2 Cetearyl alcohol 1 Caprylic acid / capric triglycerides 2 C 12-15 Alkyl benzoate 2 Sunflower oil 0,5 Cocos glycerides 2 Octyldodecanol 1 Triisostearin 1 Cetearyl isononanoate 1 p-Hydroxybenzoic acid methyl ester (paraben) 0,2 Succinoglucan gum 0,4 Octanediol 0,2 N-((2,4-Dihydroxyphenyl)thiazol-2-yl)-isobutyramide 0,1 Glycerin 5 Panthenol 1 Additives (Sclerotium Gum, EDTA) 0,5 perfume qs Water ad 100 Example F % by weight O / W cream Glyceryl stearate citrate 2 Stearyl alcohol 2 C 12-15 Alkyl benzoate 2 Dicaprylyl ether 2 Octyldodecanol 2 Caprylic acid / capric triglycerides 1 Jojoba oil 0,5 Tocopheryl acetate 0,3 Sodium ascorbyl phosphate 0,1 Phenoxyethanol 0,7 Succinoglucan gum 0,4 Magnolia bark extract 0,1 Glyceryl caprylate 0,3 Benzethonium chloride 0,05 Pentylene glycol 2 Glycerin 7 Fillers / Additives (Hydroxypropylmethylcellulose) 0,5 Neutralizing agent (citric acid, NaOH aq ) (pH adjusted to 6) qs perfume qs Water ad 100 Example G % by weight O / W Cream Polyglyceryl-10 stearate 1,5 Sorbitan stearate 2 Stearyl alcohol 2 C 12-15 Alkyl benzoate 2 Shea butter 0,5 Caprylic acid / capric triglycerides 3 Dicaprylyl carbonate 2 Dicaprylyl ether 1 Homosalate 2 Octocrylene 5 Octyl salicylate 2 2,4-Bis-{[4-(2-Ethyl-hexyloxy)-2-hydroxy]-phenyl}-6-(4-methoxyphenyl)-1,3,5-triazine (Tinosorb ® < S) 1 Benzyl alcohol 0,2 Folic acid 0,1 Ethylhexylglycerin 0,4 Succinoglucan gum 0,5 Retinyl palmitate 0,1 Ethanol 3 Glycerin 5 Additives (EDTA, Sclerotium gum) 0,6 Neutralizing agent (citric acid, NaOH aq) qs perfume qs Water ad 100 pH 5.0-5.5

[0044] Example H % by weight O / W cream Polyglyceryl-3 Methylglucose Distearate 1,5 Sorbitan monostearate 2 Cetearyl alcohol 2 Caprylic acid / capric triglycerides 3 C 12-15 Alkyl benzoate 2 Cocos glycerides 2 Octyldodecanol 2 p-Hydroxybenzoic acid methyl ester (paraben) 0,2 Succinoglucan gum 0,2 Ethylhexylglycerin 0,3 Methylpropanediol 3 Glycerin 5 Panthenol 1 Glycerylglucose 0,5 Additives (silica, benzethonium chloride, o-cymen-5-ol, neutralizing agent) 0,8 Perfume (containing citral, carvone, carvacrol, carveol, geraniol, nerol, thymol, menthone, cinnamaldehyde, vanillin, p-anisaldehyde, eugenol, anisyl alcohol, isopropylmethylphenol, terpineol, heliortopin) qs Water ad 100 pH 5-6

[0045] Example I Tinted Day Cream % by weight Polyglyceryl-3 Methylglucose Distearate 2 Glyceryl Stearate 1 Cetyl alcohol 2 Octyldodecanol 4 Cetearyl isononanoate 4 Dicaprylyl Ether 3 Phenoxyethanol 0,5 Octanediol 0,2 Vitamin E acetate 0,2 Succinoglucan gum 0,3 Glycerin 8 Neutralizing agent (citric acid and / or NaOH aq ) (pH adjusted to 6) qs Silica-coated inorganic pigments [(CI 77499, CI 77491, CI 77891, CI 77492) + Silica] - PRIMROSE 6 Water Ad 100

Claims

1. Cosmetic oil-in-water emulsions (O / W emulsions) comprising not only a water phase but also one or more oil phases dispersed therein, and one or more anionic emulsifiers and / or one or more nonionic emulsifiers and one or more succinoglucans, where polyglyceryl-3 methylglucose distearate (INCI: Polyglyceryl Methylglucose Distearate), potassium cetyl phosphate, sodium cetearyl sulfate, cetearyl glucoside, sodium stearyl glutamate, potassium cetyl phosphate, alkali metal salts of saturated fatty acids with a chain length of C14-C22 or one or more polyglyceryl fatty acid esters are used as O / W emulsifiers.

2. O / W emulsions according to Claim 1, characterized in that the content of succinoglucan in the emulsion is from 0.01% to 1.0% by weight, based on the total weight of the emulsion.

3. O / W emulsions according to Claim 1 or 2, characterized in that the emulsion is one or more oil-in-water emulsifiers (O / W emulsifiers) in a total concentration of 0.05% to 5.0%, based on the total weight of the emulsion.

4. O / W emulsions according to any of the preceding claims, characterized in that the content of one or more anionic emulsifiers in the emulsion is from 0.001% to 5.0% by weight and preferably between 0.05% and 2% by weight, particularly preferably between 0.1% and 1.0% by weight, in each case based on the total weight of the emulsion.

5. O / W emulsions according to any of the preceding claims, characterized in that the content of one or more nonionic emulsifiers in the emulsion is from 0.001% to 5.0% by weight and preferably between 0.05% and 3% by weight, particularly preferably between 0.1% and 2.0% by weight, in each case based on the total weight of the emulsion.