Composition comprising a uv-screening agent, a semi-crystalline polymer containing at least one alkyl acrylate chain and a scleroglucan gum

Abstract

The present invention relates to a composition, in particular a cosmetic or dermatological composition, preferably in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion, comprising: - at least one UV-screening agent; - at least one semi-crystalline polymer containing at least one alkyl acrylate chain; and - at least one scleroglucan gum. The present invention makes it possible to obtain a composition with a strong anti-UV protective power, which is stabilised over time, and which exhibits moreover good cosmetic properties, such as a refreshing capacity and a non-greasy and non-tacky texture.

Description

Composition comprising a UV-screening agent, a semi-crystalline polymer containing at least one alkyl acrylate chain and a scleroglucan gum

[0001] The present invention relates to a composition, in particular a cosmetic or dermatological composition, comprising at least one UV-screening agent, at least one semi-crystalline polymer containing at least one alkyl acrylate chain, and at least one scleroglucan gum, and to the use of said composition in the cosmetic and dermatological fields, in particular for caring for and treating keratin materials, and in particular for caring for, protecting and / or making up bodily or facial skin.

[0002] It is known that light radiation with wavelengths of between 280 and 400 nm makes it possible to brown the human epidermis. Rays with wavelengths more particularly between 280 and 320 nm, known as UVB rays, cause skin erythema and burns which can be detrimental to the development of a natural tan.

[0003] For these reasons, and also for aesthetic reasons, there is a constant demand for means for controlling this natural tanning in order thus to control the colour of the skin: UVB radiation should thus be screened out. It is also known that UVA rays, with wavelengths of between 320 and 400 nm, which cause browning of the skin, are capable of bringing about a detrimental change in the latter, in particular in the case of sensitive skin or of skin continually exposed to solar radiation. UVA rays cause in particular a loss in the elasticity of the skin and the appearance of wrinkles, resulting in premature skin ageing.

[0004] Thus, for aesthetic and cosmetic reasons, for instance conservation of the skin’s natural elasticity, more and more people wish to control the effect of UVA rays on their skin. It is therefore desirable also to screen out UVA radiation.

[0005] For the purpose of protecting the skin and keratin materials against UV radiation, photoprotective compositions comprising organic screening agents that are active in the UVA range and in the UVB range are generally used.

[0006] Many cosmetic compositions intended for photoprotection of the skin have been proposed to date. These compositions generally contain, in an emulsified liquid support (preferably an oil-in-water emulsion), one or more organic molecules, capable of absorbing ultraviolet radiation, which are soluble in the oily and / or aqueous phase. The use of mineral pigments of a metal oxide, such as titanium dioxide, in such anti-sun compositions is increasingly frequent since these particles, which are invisible to the naked eye due to their small size, make it possible to increase the protection factor of the compositions containing same.

[0007] One of the major drawbacks of these photoprotective emulsions containing organic screening agents and / or mineral screening agents lies in the difficulty in reconciling good product stability, easy product application, effective protection, preferably at least SPF of 40 and PPD of 10, and a fresh and non-tacky feel.

[0008] The applicant has discovered that this objective can be achieved with the combination of a semi-crystalline polymer containing at least one alkyl acrylate chain and a scleroglucan gum.

[0009] Thus, according to a first aspect, the present invention relates to a composition, in particular a cosmetic or dermatological composition, comprising:

[0010] - at least one UV-screening agent;

[0011] - at least one semi-crystalline polymer containing at least one alkyl acrylate chain; and

[0012] - at least one scleroglucan gum.

[0013] Against all expectations, the inventors have found that the use, in a photoprotective composition, of the combination of a scleroglucan gum with a semi-crystalline polymer containing at least one alkyl acrylate chain makes it possible to obtain a composition which is easy to spread, has a high photoprotective power and is nevertheless stabilised over time, and which also has good cosmetic properties such as a refreshing capacity and a non-greasy and non-tacky texture.

[0014] A subject of the invention, according to another its aspect, is also the use of a composition as defined above for caring for keratin materials, in particular bodily and / or facial skin.

[0015] Another subject of the present invention, according to yet another of its aspects, is a non-therapeutic cosmetic process for making up and / or caring for keratin materials, in particular bodily and / or facial skin, comprising at least the application to said keratin materials of a cosmetic composition as defined previously.

[0016] The invention also relates to a non-therapeutic cosmetic process for limiting the darkening of the skin and / or improving the colour and / or uniformity of the complexion, comprising the application, to the surface of the keratin material, of at least one cosmetic composition as defined previously.

[0017] The invention also relates to a non-therapeutic cosmetic process for preventing and / or treating the signs of ageing of a keratin material, comprising the application, to the surface of the keratin material, of at least one cosmetic composition as defined previously.

[0018] The composition in accordance with the invention shows good stability. This stability can be evaluated macroscopically and / or microscopically, after storage for 24 hours, one week, one month, or two months, at ambient temperature (25°C), at 4°C, at 45°C or at 55°C. A stable composition generally maintains its comfort and its sensorial signature on application over time. More specifically, the stability of a composition can be evaluated qualitatively for example by the absence of any phase-separation phenomenon on or appearance of crystals, or quantitatively through the monitoring of the change in parameters such as the viscosity or the pH.

[0019] In the context of the invention, the screening efficiency is evaluated from the evaluation of SPF and UVAPF.

[0020] For the purposes of the present invention, the term “SPF” means: the sun protection factor, which measures the level of protection against UVB radiation. The SPF value corresponds to the ratio between the minimum time necessary to obtain a sunburn with a photoprotective composition and the minimum time necessary without a product. More specifically, the term “SPF” is defined in the articleA new substrate to measure sunscreen protection factors throughout the ultraviolet spectrum, J. Soc. Cosmet. Chem., 40, 127-133 (May / June 1989).

[0021] Evaluation of the SPF (Sun Protection Factor) can be carried out in vitro with a Labsphere® spectrophotometer. The plate is the material to which the photoprotective composition is applied. For this protocol, poly(methyl methacrylate) (PMMA) plates proved to be ideal. A particular protocol, presented as an example, is currently being approved by ISO under the name ISO Committee Draft 23675.

[0022] The evaluation of the Sun Protection Factor (SPF) of the compositions can also be performed in vivo according to the ISO 24444: 2019 protocol “Cosmetics - Sun protection test methods - In vivo determination of the sun protection factor (SPF)”.

[0023] For the purposes of the present invention, the term “UVAPF” is understood to mean the index characterising the protection against UVA radiation. In particular, this index can be measured in vivo according to the “PPD” (Persistent Pigment Darkening) method, protocol ISO-24442: 2022, by skin colour observed 2 to 4 hours after exposure to UVA radiation. The protection against UVA radiation can also be evaluated in vitro using the Labsphere® spectrophotometer. The plate is the material to which the anti-sun composition is applied. For this protocol, poly(methyl methacrylate) (PMMA) plates proved to be ideal. The ISO 24443: 2021 protocol describes such an in vitro method.

[0024] Other characteristics, aspects and advantages of the invention will become apparent on reading the detailed description that follows.

[0025] The composition according to the invention is intended for topical application and thus contains a physiologically acceptable medium. The term “physiologically acceptable medium” means here a medium that is compatible with keratin materials.

[0026] In the context of the present invention, the term “keratin material” notably means the skin, scalp, keratin fibres, such as the eyelashes, eyebrows, head hair and bodily hair, nails, mucous membranes, such as the lips, and more particularly the skin and mucous membranes (body, face, area around the eyes, eyelids, lips, preferably body, face and lips).

[0027] In the text hereinbelow, unless otherwise indicated, the limits of a range of values are included in that range, notably in the expressions “between” and “ranging from ... to ...”.

[0028] Moreover, the expressions “at least one” and “at least” used in the present description are equivalent respectively to the expressions “one or more” and “greater than or equal to”.

[0029] According to the invention, the term “preventing” or “prevention” means reducing the risk of occurrence or slowing down the occurrence of a given phenomenon, namely, according to the present invention, the signs of ageing of a keratin material.

[0030] The term “organic UVA-screening agent” is intended to mean any organic chemical molecule capable of absorbing at least UVA rays in the wavelength range of between 320 and 400 nm; it being possible for said molecule to likewise also absorb UVB rays in the wavelength range of between 280 and 320 nm.

[0031] The term “organic UVB-screening agent” is understood to mean any organic chemical molecule capable of absorbing exclusively UVB radiation in the wavelength range of between 280 and 320 nm.UV-screening agents

[0032] The compositions according to the invention contain one or more UV-screening agents. These may be chosen from hydrophilic, lipophilic or insoluble organic UV-screening agents and / or one or more mineral pigments. Preferentially, the screening system will be constituted of at least one organic UV-screening agent, in particular a hydrophilic, lipophilic or insoluble organic UV-screening agent.

[0033] The term “hydrophilic UV-screening agent” is intended to mean any cosmetic or dermatological organic or inorganic compound for screening out UV radiation, which can be fully dissolved in molecular form in a liquid aqueous phase or which can be dissolved in colloidal form (for example in micellar form) in a liquid aqueous phase.

[0034] The term “lipophilic UV-screening agent” is intended to mean any cosmetic or dermatological organic or inorganic compound for screening out UV radiation, which can be fully dissolved in molecular form in a liquid fatty phase or else which can be dissolved in colloidal form (for example in micellar form) in a liquid fatty phase.

[0035] The term “insoluble UV-screening agent” is intended to mean any cosmetic or dermatological organic or inorganic compound for screening out UV radiation which has a solubility in water of less than 0.5% by weight and a solubility of less than 0.5% by weight in the majority of organic solvents such as liquid paraffin, fatty alcohol benzoates and fatty acid triglycerides, for example Miglyol 812® sold by Dynamit Nobel. This solubility, determined at 70°C, is defined as the amount of product in solution in the solvent at equilibrium with an excess of solid in suspension after returning to ambient temperature. It can be easily evaluated in the laboratory.

[0036] The organic UV-screening agents are chosen in particular from cinnamic compounds; anthranilate compounds; salicylic compounds; dibenzoylmethane compounds; benzylidenecamphor compounds; benzophenone compounds; β,β-diphenylacrylate compounds; triazine compounds; benzotriazole compounds; benzalmalonate compounds, in particular those cited in patent US 5 624 663; benzimidazole derivatives; imidazoline compounds; bis-benzazolyl compounds, such as described in patents EP 669 323 and US 2 463 264; methylenebis(hydroxyphenylbenzotriazole) compounds, such as described in applications US 5 237 071, US 5 166 355, GB 2 303 549, DE 197 26 184 and EP 893 119; benzoxazole compounds, such as described in patent applications EP 0 832 642, EP 1 027 883, EP 1 300 137 and DE 101 62 844; screening polymers and screening silicones, such as those described in particular in application WO 93 / 04665; dimers derived from α-alkylstyrene, such as those described in patent application DE 198 55 649; 4,4-diarylbutadiene compounds, such as described in applications EP 0 967 200, DE 197 46 654, DE 197 55 649, EP-A-1 008 586, EP 1 133 980 and EP 133 981, and mixtures thereof.

[0037] Mention may be made, as examples of organic photoprotective agents, of those denoted below under their INCI name and / or their chemical name.Cinnamic compounds:

[0038] Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate, sold especially under the trade name Parsol® MCX by DSM Nutritional Products,

[0039] Isoamyl p-Methoxycinnamate sold under the trade name Neo Heliopan E 1000® by Symrise,Dibenzoylmethane compounds:

[0040] Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane, sold in particular under the trade name Parsol® 1789 by DSM Nutritional Products,Salicylic compounds:

[0041] Homosalate sold under the name Parsol® HMS by DSM Nutritional Products,

[0042] Ethylhexyl Salicylate sold under the name Neo Heliopan® OS by Symrise,β,β-Diphenylacrylate compounds:

[0043] Octocrylene, sold in particular under the trade name Uvinul® N 539 T by BASF,Benzophenone compounds:

[0044] Benzophenone-3 or Oxybenzone, sold under the trade name Uvinul® M 40 by BASF,

[0045] n-Hexyl 2-(4-diethylamino-2-hydroxybenzoyl)benzoate, having the INCI name Diethylamino hydroxybenzoyl hexyl benzoate sold under the trade name Uvinul® A Plus or, as a mixture with ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate, under the trade name Uvinul® A Plus B by BASF,

[0046] 1,1'-(1,4-Piperazinediyl)bis[1-[2-[4-(diethylamino)-2-hydroxybenzoyl]phenyl]methanone] (CAS 919803-06-8), as described in application WO 2007 / 071584; this compound advantageously being used in micronised form (mean size of 0.02 to 2 µm), which may be obtained, for example, according to the micronisation process described in applications GB-A-2 303 549 and EP-A-893 119, and in particular in the form of an aqueous dispersion,Benzylidenecamphor compounds:

[0047] 4-Methylbenzylidenecamphor sold under the name Eusolex® 6300 by Merck,

[0048] Terephthalylidene Dicamphor Sulfonic Acid produced under the name Mexoryl® SX by Noveal,Phenylbenzimidazole compounds:

[0049] Phenylbenzimidazole Sulfonic Acid sold especially under the trade name Eusolex® 232 by Merck,Bis-benzazolyl compounds:

[0050] Disodium Phenyl Dibenzimidazole Tetrasulfonate sold under the trade name Neo Heliopan® AP by Symrise,Phenylbenzotriazole compounds:

[0051] Drometrizole Trisiloxane, produced under the name Mexoryl® XL by Noveal,

[0052] Methylenebis(hydroxyphenylbenzotriazole) compounds:

[0053] Methylenebis(benzotriazolyl)tetramethylbutylphenol, in particular in solid form, such as the product sold under the trade name Mixxim BB / 100® by Fairmount Chemical, or in the form of an aqueous dispersion of micronised particles with a mean particle size ranging from 0.01 to 5 µm, more preferentially from 0.01 to 2 µm and more particularly from 0.020 to 2 µm, with at least one alkyl polyglycoside surfactant having the structure CnH2n+1O(C6H10O5)xH, in which n is an integer from 8 to 16 and x is the mean degree of polymerisation of the (C6H10O5) unit and ranges from 1.4 to 1.6, as described in patent GB-A-2 303 549, sold in particular under the trade name Tinosorb® M by BASF, or in the form of an aqueous dispersion of micronised particles with a mean particle size ranging from 0.02 to 2 µm, more preferentially from 0.01 to 1.5 µm and more particularly from 0.02 to 1 µm, in the presence of at least one polyglyceryl mono(C8-C20)alkyl ester with a degree of glycerol polymerisation of at least 5, such as the aqueous dispersions described in application WO 2009 / 063392, in particular the product sold under the name Tinosorb® WPGL by BASF,Triazine compounds:

[0054] - 3,3'-(1,4-Phenylene)bis(5,6-diphenyl-1,2,4-triazine), with the INCI name Phenylene Bis-Diphenyltriazine,

[0055] - Bis-Ethylhexyloxyphenol Methoxyphenyl Triazine sold under the trade name Parsol Shield® by DSM Nutritional Products and under the trade name Tinosorb®S by BASF, and in its water-dispersible form having the INCI name Bis-Ethylhexyloxyphenol Methoxyphenyl Triazine (and) Acrylates / C12-22 Alkyl Methacrylate Copolymer, under the trade name Tinosorb® S LiteAqua by BASF,

[0056] - Ethylhexyl Triazone, sold in particular under the trade name Uvinul® T 150 by BASF,

[0057] - Diethylhexyl Butamido Triazone, sold under the trade name Uvasorb® HEB by Sigma 3V,

[0058] - symmetrical triazine screening agents substituted by naphthalenyl groups or polyphenyl groups described in patent US 6 225 467, application WO 2004 / 085412 (see compounds 6 and 9) or the document “Symmetrical Triazine Derivatives”, IP.COM IPCOM000031257 Journal, INC West Henrietta, NY, US (20 September 2004), in particular 2,4,6-tris(biphenyl)triazine and 2,4,6-tris(terphenyl)triazine sold under the name Tinosorb® A2B by BASF and which is also mentioned in patent applications WO 06 / 035000, WO 06 / 034982, WO 06 / 034991, WO 06 / 035007, WO 2006 / 034992 and WO2006 / 034985, these compounds advantageously being used in micronised form (mean particle size of 0.02 to 3 µm), which can be obtained, for example, according to the micronisation process described in applications GB-A-2 303 549 and EP-A-893 119, and in particular in aqueous dispersion form,Anthranilic compounds:

[0059] Menthyl anthranilate sold under the trade name Neo Heliopan MA by Symrise.Benzalmalonate compounds:

[0060] Polyorganosiloxane bearing benzalmalonate functions, for instance Polysilicone-15, sold under the trade name Parsol® SLX by DSM Nutritional Products,Benzoxazole compounds:

[0061] 2,4-Bis[5-1(dimethylpropyl)benzoxazol-2-yl-(4-phenyl)imino]-6-(2-ethylhexyl)imino-1,3,5-triazine, sold under the name Uvasorb® K2A by 3V Sigma,

[0062] 2-[4-(1,3-benzoxazol-2-yl)phenyl]-1,3-benzoxazole, having the CAS number 904-39-2.

[0063] The preferential organic screening agents are chosen from:

[0064] Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate,

[0065] Ethylhexyl Salicylate,

[0066] Homosalate,

[0067] Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane,

[0068] Octocrylene,

[0069] Phenylbenzimidazole Sulfonic Acid,

[0070] Benzophenone-3,

[0071] Diethylamino hydroxybenzoyl hexyl benzoate,

[0072] 4-Methylbenzylidene camphor,

[0073] Terephthalylidene Dicamphor Sulfonic Acid,

[0074] Disodium Phenyl Dibenzimidazole Tetrasulfonate,

[0075] Methylene Bis-Benzotriazolyl Tetramethylbutylphenol,

[0076] Bis-Ethylhexyloxyphenol Methoxyphenyl Triazine,

[0077] Ethylhexyl Triazone,

[0078] Diethylhexyl Butamido Triazone,

[0079] 2,4,6-Tris(biphenyl)triazine,

[0080] 2,4,6-Tris(terphenyl)triazine,

[0081] Drometrizole Trisiloxane,

[0082] Polysilicone-15,

[0083] Bis(diethylaminohydroxybenzoyl benzoyl)piperazine,

[0084] and mixtures thereof.

[0085] The particularly preferred organic screening agents are chosen from:

[0086] Ethylhexyl Salicylate,

[0087] Homosalate,

[0088] Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane,

[0089] Octocrylene,

[0090] Diethylamino hydroxybenzoyl hexyl benzoate,

[0091] Terephthalylidene Dicamphor Sulfonic Acid,

[0092] Bis-Ethylhexyloxyphenol Methoxyphenyl Triazine,

[0093] Ethylhexyl Triazone,

[0094] Diethylhexyl Butamido Triazone,

[0095] Bis(diethylaminohydroxybenzoyl benzoyl)piperazine,

[0096] Drometrizole Trisiloxane,

[0097] 2,4,6-Tris(biphenyl)triazine,

[0098] and mixtures thereof.

[0099] According to a particular embodiment, the composition in accordance with the invention comprises bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine.

[0100] The inorganic UV-screening agents used in accordance with the present invention may be metal oxide pigments. More preferentially, the inorganic UV-screening agents of the invention are metal oxide particles having an average elementary particle size of less than or equal to 0.5 µm, more preferentially of between 0.005 and 0.5 µm, even more preferentially of between 0.01 and 0.2 µm, even better still of between 0.01 and 0.1 µm and more particularly of between 0.015 and 0.05 µm. They are in particular described in annex VI, updated on 22 September 2021, of EU regulation number 1223 / 2009 regarding cosmetic products, but are not limited to this list.

[0101] They may notably be chosen from titanium oxide, zinc oxide, iron oxide, zirconium oxide and cerium oxide, or mixtures thereof.

[0102] Such coated or uncoated metal oxide pigments are described in particular in patent application EP-A-0 518 773. As commercial pigments, mention may be made of the products sold by Croda, Tayca and Merck.

[0103] The metal oxide pigments may be coated or uncoated.

[0104] The coated pigments are pigments which have undergone one or more surface treatments of chemical, electronic, mechanochemical and / or mechanical nature with compounds such as amino acids, beeswax, fatty acids, fatty alcohols, anionic surfactants, lecithins, sodium, potassium, zinc, iron or aluminium salts of fatty acids, metal alkoxides (of titanium or aluminium), polyethylene, silicones, proteins (collagen, elastin), alkanolamines, silicon oxides, metal oxides or sodium hexametaphosphate.

[0105] The coated pigments are more particularly titanium oxides that have been coated:

[0106] - with hydrated silica, such as the product MT-100WP from Tayca,

[0107] - with silica and iron oxide, such as the product Sunveil F® from Ikeda,

[0108] - with silica and alumina, such as the products MT-500SA® and MT-100SA® from Tayca and Tioveil™ AQ-N from Croda,

[0109] - with alumina, such as the product TTO-55 (A)® from Ishihara,

[0110] - with alumina and aluminium stearate, such as the products MT-100TV®, MT-100Z®and MT-01®from Tayca, the product Solaveil™ CT100®from Croda and the product Eusolex T-AVO®from Merck,

[0111] - with silica, alumina and alginic acid, such as the product MT-100AQ®from Tayca,

[0112] - with alumina and aluminium laurate,

[0113] - with iron oxide and iron stearate,

[0114] - with zinc oxide and zinc stearate,

[0115] - with silica and alumina and treated with a silicone, such as the products MTY-500SAS® or Microtitanium Dioxide MT-100SAS® from Tayca,

[0116] - with silica, alumina, and aluminium stearate and treated with a silicone,

[0117] - with silica and treated with a silicone,

[0118] - with silica and treated with a silicone, such as the product TTO-55(S)® from Ishihara,

[0119] - with triethanolamine,

[0120] - with stearic acid, such as the product TTO-55 (C)® from Ishihara,

[0121] - with sodium hexametaphosphate,

[0122] - with TiO2treated with octyltrimethylsilane,

[0123] - with TiO2treated with a polydimethylsiloxane,

[0124] - with anatase / rutile TiO2treated with a polydimethylhydrogenosiloxane,

[0125] - TiO2coated with triethylhexanoin, with aluminium stearate and with alumina sold under the trade name SolaveilTMCT-200 by Croda,

[0126] - TiO2coated with aluminium stearate, with alumina and with silicone, sold under the trade name SolaveilTMCT-12W by Croda,

[0127] - with TiO2coated with lauroyl lysine,

[0128] - with TiO2coated with C9-C15fluoroalcohol phosphate and with aluminium hydroxide.

[0129] Mention may also be made of TiO2pigments doped with at least one transition metal such as iron, zinc or manganese and more particularly manganese. Preferably, said doped pigments are in the form of an oily dispersion. The oil present in the oily dispersion is preferably chosen from triglycerides including those of capric / caprylic acids. The oily dispersion of titanium oxide particles may also comprise one or more dispersants, for instance a sorbitan ester, for instance sorbitan isostearate, or a polyoxyalkylenated fatty acid ester of glycerol, for instance Tri-PPG-3 myristyl ether citrate and polyglyceryl-3 polyricinoleate. Preferably, the oily dispersion of titanium oxide particles includes at least one dispersant chosen from polyoxyalkylenated fatty acid esters of glycerol. Mention may be made more particularly of the oily dispersion of TiO2particles doped with manganese in capric / caprylic acid triglyceride in the presence of Tri-PPG-3 myristyl ether citrate and polyglyceryl-3 polyricinoleate and sorbitan isostearate having the INCI name: titanium dioxide (and) TRI-PPG-3 myristyl ether citrate (and) polyglyceryl-3 ricinoleate (and) sorbitan isostearate, for instance the product sold under the trade name OptisolTMOTP-1 by Croda.

[0130] The uncoated titanium oxide pigments are for example sold by Tayca under the trade names MT-500B or MT-600B®, or by Evonik under the name Degussa P 25.

[0131] The uncoated zinc oxide pigments are, for example:

[0132] - those sold under the name Z-Cote® by BASF;

[0133] - those sold under the name NanoArc® Zinc Oxide by Nanophase Technologies.

[0134] The coated zinc oxide pigments are, for example:

[0135] - ZnO coated with polymethylhydrosiloxane;

[0136] - Solaveil™ CZ-100 from Croda, dispersed in C12-C15alkyl benzoate (INCI: Zinc Oxide (and) C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate (and) Polyhydroxystearic Acid (and) Isostearic Acid);

[0137] - those sold under the name Daitopersion Zn-60VA® by Daito Kasei (dispersions in C9-C12alkane with a dispersant);

[0138] - those sold under the name SPD-Z5® by Shin-Etsu (ZnO coated with silicone-grafted acrylic polymer, dispersed in cyclodimethylsiloxane).

[0139] The uncoated cerium oxide pigments may be, for example, those sold under the name Rhodigard® W185 by Solvay.

[0140] Mention may also be made of mixtures of metal oxides, especially of titanium dioxide and cerium dioxide, including the mixture in equal weights of titanium dioxide and cerium dioxide, coated with silica, and also the mixture of titanium dioxide and zinc dioxide coated with alumina, silica and silicone or coated with alumina, silica and glycerol.

[0141] According to the invention, coated or uncoated titanium oxide pigments are particularly preferred.

[0142] The UV-screening agents can be present in the composition according to the invention in a content ranging from 0.1% to 60% by weight, preferably from 1% to 40% by weight, and even more preferentially from 5% to 30% by weight, and even better still from 10% to 25% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0143] Semi-crystalline polymer containing at least one alkyl acrylate chain

[0144] As indicated above, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one semi-crystalline polymer containing at least one alkyl acrylate chain, the alkyl radicals preferably being C16-C22.

[0145] For the purposes of the invention, the term “semi-crystalline polymer” is understood to mean polymers comprising a crystallisable portion, pendent chain or block in the backbone, and an amorphous portion in the backbone, and having a first-order reversible change of phase temperature, in particular melting point (solid-liquid transition).

[0146] When the crystallisable portion is a block of the polymer backbone, this crystallisable block is of different chemical nature from that of the amorphous blocks; the semi-crystalline polymer is, in this case, a block polymer, for example of the diblock, triblock or multiblock type, comprising at least one crystallisable block and at least one amorphous block.

[0147] The term “block” is generally understood to mean at least 5 identical repeating units. The crystallisable block(s) is (are) then of different chemical nature from the 5 amorphous block(s).

[0148] Advantageously, the semi-crystalline polymer containing at least one alkyl acrylate chain of the composition of the invention has an average molecular mass (Mn) of greater than or equal to about 2000 g / mol, preferably from about 2000 to 800 000 g / mol, preferably from about 3000 to 500 000 g / mol, preferably from about 4000 to 150 000 g / mol, and preferably from about 4000 to 99 000 g / mol.

[0149] Aside from the crystallisable chains or blocks, the blocks of the polymers are amorphous.

[0150] For the purposes of the invention, the term “crystallisable chain or block” is understood to mean a chain or block which, if it were alone, would change from the amorphous state to the crystalline state reversibly, depending on whether the temperature is above or below the melting point. For the purposes of the invention, a chain is a group of atoms, which is pendent or lateral relative to the polymer backbone. A block is a group of atoms belonging to the backbone, this group constituting one of the repeating units of the polymer. Advantageously, the “pendent crystallisable chain” may be a chain containing at least 6 carbon atoms.

[0151] Preferably, the polymer backbone of the semi-crystalline polymers is soluble in the oily phase.

[0152] Thus, the semi-crystalline polymer containing at least one alkyl acrylate chain that is used in the composition of the invention is generally introduced into the oily phase of the composition.

[0153] Preferably, the crystallisable blocks or chains of the semi-crystalline polymers containing at least one alkyl acrylate chain represent at least approximately 30% by weight and preferably at least approximately 40% by weight relative to the total weight of each polymer.

[0154] The semi-crystalline polymers comprising crystallisable blocks used according to the invention are block or multiblock polymers. They may be obtained by polymerising monomers bearing reactive (or ethylenic) double bonds or by polycondensation. When the polymers of the invention are polymers bearing crystallisable side chains, these polymers are advantageously in random or statistical form.

[0155] The semi-crystalline polymers of the invention may be of synthetic origin. Moreover, they do not comprise a polysaccharide backbone.

[0156] The semi-crystalline polymers of the composition of the invention may or may not be partially crosslinked. It may then be a case of chemical crosslinking, by reaction with a multifunctional monomer during the polymerisation. It may also be a case of physical crosslinking, which may then be due either to the establishment of bonds of hydrogen or dipolar type between groups borne by the polymer, such as dipolar interactions between carboxylate ionomers, these interactions being in small amount and borne by the polymer backbone; or due to a phase separation between the crystallisable blocks and the amorphous blocks borne by the polymer.

[0157] Preferably, the semi-crystalline polymers containing at least one alkyl acrylate chain of the composition according to the invention are non-crosslinked.

[0158] As examples of semi-crystalline polymers according to the invention containing at least one alkyl acrylate chain, mention may be made of those resulting from the polymerisation of one or more saturated alkyl (meth)acrylates.

[0159] Preferably, the semi-crystalline polymers bearing a crystallisable side chain are alkyl (meth)acrylate homopolymers, or copolymers of these monomers with a hydrophilic monomer.

[0160] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the semi-crystalline polymer containing at least one alkyl acrylate chain is derived from a monomer bearing a crystallisable chain chosen from saturated alkyl (meth)acrylates and even more particularly poly(stearyl acrylate)s or poly(behenyl acrylate)s.

[0161] According to another particular embodiment of the invention, the semi-crystalline polymer containing at least one alkyl acrylate chain is chosen from copolymers resulting from the polymerisation of at least one monomer bearing a crystallisable chain and chosen from saturated alkyl (meth)acrylates.

[0162] According to a preferred embodiment, the semi-crystalline polymer containing at least one alkyl acrylate chain is chosen from the homopolymers obtained by polymerisation of a monomer chosen from alkyl acrylates and alkyl methacrylates and from the copolymers obtained by copolymerisation of a monomer chosen from alkyl acrylates and alkyl methacrylates with a hydrophilic monomer, preferably N-vinylpyrrolidone or a hydroxyethyl (meth)acrylate, and mixtures thereof, more preferentially still a hydroxyethyl (meth)acrylate, and mixtures thereof.

[0163] As particular examples of semi-crystalline polymers that can be used in the composition according to the invention, mention may be made of the homopolymers obtained by polymerisation of a monomer chosen from alkyl acrylates and alkyl methacrylates, preferably from stearyl acrylates and behenyl acrylates, especially the polymers having the INCI name Poly C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate such as the Intelimer® products from Evonik, such as the product Intelimer® IPA 13-1, which is a polystearyl acrylate, or the product Intelimer® IPA 13-6, which is a behenyl polymer (polybehenyl acrylate), or else the Tego® SP products from Evonik.

[0164] As particular examples of semi-crystalline polymers that can be used in the composition, mention may also be made of the copolymers obtained by copolymerisation of a monomer chosen from alkyl acrylates and alkyl methacrylates with a hydrophilic monomer, preferably a hydroxyethyl (meth)acrylate, especially the copolymers described in applications FR 3 073 405 and FR 3 073 406, and preferably the copolymers obtained by copolymerisation of at least one monomer chosen from alkyl acrylates, preferably from behenyl acrylates, stearyl acrylates, and mixtures thereof, with a hydrophilic monomer such as hydroxyethyl (meth)acrylate and N-vinylpyrrolidone, and preferably hydroxyethyl acrylate.

[0165] Preferably, the semi-crystalline polymer containing at least one alkyl acrylate chain is a behenyl acrylate / 2-hydroxyethyl acrylate copolymer, a stearyl acrylate / 2-hydroxyethyl acrylate copolymer and / or a mixture thereof, and in particular the polymer with the INCI name: Poly C12-22 Alkyl Acrylate / Hydroxyethyl Acrylate Copolymer sold in particular under the name Tego SP Senstar by Evonik.

[0166] According to a preferred embodiment, the semi-crystalline polymer(s) containing at least one alkyl acrylate chain are chosen from a polystearyl acrylate, a polybehenyl acrylate, a behenyl acrylate / 2-hydroxyethyl acrylate copolymer, a stearyl acrylate / 2-hydroxyethyl acrylate copolymer, and a mixture thereof, in particular chosen from the polymer with the INCI name: Poly C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate, the copolymer with the INCI name C12-22 Alkyl Acrylate / Hydroxyethyl Acrylate Copolymer, and mixtures thereof, more particularly the polymer with the INCI name: C12-22 Alkyl Acrylate / Hydroxyethyl Acrylate Copolymer.

[0167] According to a more preferred embodiment, the semi-crystalline polymer containing at least one alkyl acrylate chain is a polymer having the INCI name: C12-22 Alkyl Acrylate / Hydroxyethyl Acrylate Copolymer.

[0168] More particularly, the composition in accordance with the invention comprises, as semi-crystalline polymer, at least one lipophilic acrylic polymer containing monomer units of formulae (A) and (B):

[0169]

[0170] in which:

[0171] R1, independently at each instance, is chosen from alkyl or alkenyl radicals,

[0172] and

[0173] at least 60% by weight of the R1groups are radicals chosen from stearyl and behenyl radicals, the percentage by weight relating to the sum of all the R1groups present in the polymer,

[0174] and

[0175] the weight ratio of the sum of all the hydroxyethyl acrylate units to the sum of all the acrylate units bearing the R1group ranges from 1:30 to 1: 1,

[0176] and the sum of the total of units A and B is at least 95% by weight of the total weight of the polymer.

[0177] Preferably, R1is constituted of alkyl radicals, preferably of C16-C22alkyl radicals, and more preferentially of stearyl (C18) radicals or of behenyl (C22) radicals.

[0178] Preferably, at least 70% by weight of the R1groups are stearyl or behenyl radicals, preferentially at least 80% by weight and more preferentially at least 90% by weight.

[0179] According to one preferred embodiment, all the R1groups are behenyl radicals.

[0180] According to another preferred embodiment, all the R1groups are stearyl radicals.

[0181] Preferably, the weight ratio of the sum of all the hydroxyethyl acrylate units to the sum of all the acrylate units bearing the R1group ranges from 1:15 to 1:1, preferably ranges from 1:10 to 1:4.

[0182] Advantageously, the polymer units present in the polymer are constituted of the units (A) and (B) previously described.

[0183] The polymer has a number-average molecular weight Mn ranging from 2000 to 9000 g / mol, preferably ranging from 5000 to 9000 g / mol. The number-average molecular weight can be measured by the gel permeation chromatography method, for example according to the method described in the example hereinbelow.

[0184] Preferably, the polymer has a melting point ranging from 40°C to 70°C and preferentially ranging from 45°C to 67°C. The melting point is measured by differential scanning calorimetry (DSC), for example according to the method described in the example hereinbelow.

[0185] According to a first embodiment, when the polymer is such that at least 60% by weight of the R1groups are stearyl radicals, then the polymer preferably has a melting point ranging from 40 to 60°C, and preferentially ranging from 45 to 55°C.

[0186] According to a second embodiment, when the polymer is such that at least 60% by weight of the R1groups are behenyl radicals, then the polymer has a melting point ranging from 60°C to 70°C, and preferentially ranging from 63°C to 67°C.

[0187] The polymer used according to the invention can be prepared by polymerisation of a monomer having the formula below:

[0188] CH2=CH-COO-R1,

[0189] R1having the meaning previously described, and of 2-hydroxyethyl acrylate.

[0190] The polymerisation may be performed according to known methods, such as solution polymerisation or emulsion polymerisation.

[0191] The polymerisation is, for example, described in document US 2007 / 0264204.

[0192] The semi-crystalline polymer(s) containing at least one alkyl acrylate chain may be present in the composition according to the invention in an active material content ranging from 0.05% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably ranging from 0.1% to 5% by weight and better still ranging from 0.2% to 2% by weight.Scleroglucan gums

[0193] According to the invention, the composition comprises one or more scleroglucan gums.

[0194] Scleroglucan gums are polysaccharides of microbial origin produced by a fungus of the Sclerotium type, in particular Sclerotium rolfsii. They are polysaccharides constituted solely of glucose units.

[0195] Scleroglucan gums may or may not be modified. Preferably, the scleroglucan gums used in the present invention are unmodified.

[0196] Examples of scleroglucan gums that may be used in the present invention are, in a nonlimiting manner, the products sold under the name Actigum CS, in particular Actigum CS 11 by Sanofi Bio Industries, and under the name Amigum or Amigel by Alban Müller International.

[0197] Other scleroglucan gums, such as the gum treated with glyoxal described in French patent application No. 2 633 940, may also be used.

[0198] The scleroglucan gum(s) that can be used according to the invention preferably represent a total content ranging from 0.1% to 10% by weight, more preferentially from 0.2% to 5% by weight, and even more preferentially from 0.25% to 3% by weight, better still 0.35% to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.Presentation form

[0199] According to one particular embodiment of the invention, the composition is in the form of an emulsion.

[0200] The term “emulsion” means any macroscopically homogeneous, kinetically stable composition comprising at least two mutually immiscible phases; one being the dispersing continuous phase and the other being dispersed in said continuous phase in the form of droplets. The two phases are generally kinetically stabilised by at least one emulsifying system which may comprise at least one emulsifying surfactant.

[0201] A distinction is made between emulsions of oil-in-water type, termed “direct”, constituted of a continuous aqueous dispersing phase and of a non-continuous oily dispersed phase, and emulsions of water-in-oil type, termed “inverse”, constituted of a continuous oily dispersing phase and of a non-continuous aqueous dispersed phase. Multiple emulsions, such as water-in-oil-in-water or oil-in-water-in-oil, also exist.

[0202] According to a preferred embodiment, the compositions in accordance with the invention are direct emulsions.

[0203] The composition according to the invention may comprise at least one emulsifier chosen from amphoteric, anionic, cationic or non-ionic emulsifiers, used alone or as a mixture. The emulsifiers are chosen appropriately according to the emulsion to be obtained (W / O or O / W).

[0204] Examples of W / O non-ionic emulsifying surfactants that may be mentioned include alkyl esters or ethers of sorbitan, of glycerol, of polyol or of sugars; silicone surfactants, for instance dimethicone copolyols, such as the mixture of cyclomethicone and of dimethicone copolyol, sold under the name DC 5225 C® by Dow Corning, and alkyldimethicone copolyols such as laurylmethicone copolyol sold under the name Dow Corning 5200 Formulation Aid by Dow Corning; cetyldimethicone copolyol, such as the product sold under the name Abil EM 90R® by Goldschmidt, and the mixture of cetyldimethicone copolyol, of polyglyceryl isostearate (4 mol) and of hexyl laurate, sold under the name Abil WE O9® by Goldschmidt. One or more coemulsifiers, which may be chosen advantageously from the group comprising polyol alkyl esters, may also be added thereto.

[0205] Mention may also be made of nonsilicone emulsifying surfactants, notably alkyl esters or ethers of sorbitan, of glycerol, of polyol or of sugars.

[0206] Polyol alkyl esters that may notably be mentioned include polyethylene glycol esters, for instance PEG-30 dipolyhydroxystearate, such as the product sold under the name Arlacel P135® by ICI.

[0207] Examples of glycerol and / or sorbitan esters that may be mentioned include polyglyceryl isostearate, such as the product sold under the name Isolan GI 34® by Goldschmidt; sorbitan isostearate, such as the product sold under the name Arlacel 987® by ICI; sorbitan glyceryl isostearate, such as the product sold under the name Arlacel 986® by ICI, and mixtures thereof.

[0208] Mention may be made, for the O / W emulsions, for example, as non-ionic emulsifying surfactants, of polyoxyalkylenated (more particularly polyoxyethylenated and / or polyoxypropylenated) esters of fatty acids and of glycerol such as the esters of polyethylene glycol and of stearic acid having the INCI name PEG-100 Stearate, sold under the name Myrj S100-PA-(SG) by Croda; oxyalkylenated esters of fatty acids and of sorbitan; polyoxyalkylenated (in particular polyoxyethylenated and / or polyoxypropylenated) esters of fatty acids, optionally in combination with an ester of a fatty acid and of glycerol, such as the PEG-100 Stearate / Glyceryl Stearate mixture sold, for example, by ICI under the name Arlacel 165; oxyalkylenated (oxyethylenated and / or oxypropylenated) ethers of fatty alcohols; esters of sugars, such as sucrose stearate; or ethers of fatty alcohol and of sugar, in particular alkyl polyglucosides (APGs), such as C12-C20alkyl glucosides such as that which is sold by SEPPIC under the name Montanov L, decyl glucoside and lauryl glucoside, sold, for example, by Henkel under the respective names Plantaren 2000® and Plantaren 1200®, cetostearyl glucoside, optionally as a mixture with cetostearyl alcohol, sold, for example, under the name Montanov 68® by SEPPIC, under the name Tegocare CG90® by Goldschmidt and under the name Emulgade KE3302® by Henkel, and arachidyl glucoside, for example in the form of the mixture of arachidyl and behenyl alcohols and of arachidyl glucoside sold under the name Montanov 202® by SEPPIC. According to one particular embodiment of the invention, the mixture of the alkyl polyglucoside as defined above with the corresponding fatty alcohol can be in the form of a self-emulsifying composition, for example as described in document WO-A-92 / 06778.

[0209] As anionic surfactants making it possible to produce O / W emulsions, mention may be made of surfactants chosen from amino acids modified with at least one C8-C30, preferably C8-C24, hydrocarbon-based chain, and salts thereof, in particular acyl glutamic acids (INCI name: Acyl Glutamic Acid) or a salt thereof (acyl glutamates), such as stearoyl glutamic acid or a salt thereof, in particular Sodium Stearoyl Glutamate (INCI name).

[0210] Such compounds are sold under the name Amisoft by Ajinomoto and in particular under the references Amisoft CA, Amisoft LA, Amisoft HS 11 PF, Amisoft MK-11, Amisoft LK-11 and Amisoft CK-11, or alternatively under the name Eumulgin SG by Cognis.

[0211] As anionic surfactants making it possible to produce O / W emulsions, mention may also be made of hydrophobically modified polysaccharides, in particular inulins modified with hydrophobic chains such as alkyl carbamate groups, in particular C8-C18alkyl carbamate groups, and more particularly lauryl carbamate groups.

[0212] Examples of these compounds that may in particular be mentioned include the product sold under the name Inutec SL1 by Creachem.Non-ionic surfactants of alkyl polyglycoside type

[0213] According to a first particular embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises one or more non-ionic surfactants of alkyl polyglycoside type.

[0214] The non-ionic surfactants of alkyl polyglycoside type which can be used according to the invention are chosen from the compounds of the following general formula: R1O-(R2O)t-(G)vin which:

[0215] - R1represents a linear or branched alkyl or alkenyl radical including 6 to 24 carbon atoms and notably 8 to 18 carbon atoms, or an alkylphenyl radical of which the linear or branched alkyl radical includes 6 to 24 carbon atoms and notably 8 to 18 carbon atoms;

[0216] - R2represents an alkylene radical including 2 to 4 carbon atoms;

[0217] - G represents a sugar unit including 5 to 6 carbon atoms;

[0218] - t denotes a value ranging from 0 to 10 and preferably from 0 to 4;

[0219] - v denotes a value ranging from 1 to 15 and preferably from 1 to 4.

[0220] Preferably, the non-ionic surfactants of alkyl (poly)glycoside type are compounds of the formula described above in which:

[0221] - R1denotes a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated alkyl radical including from 8 to 18 carbon atoms;

[0222] - R2represents an alkylene radical including 2 to 4 carbon atoms;

[0223] - t denotes a value ranging from 0 to 3 and preferably equal to 0;

[0224] - G denotes glucose, fructose or galactose, preferably glucose;

[0225] - it being possible for the degree of polymerisation, i.e. the value of v, to range from 1 to 15 and preferably from 1 to 4; the mean degree of polymerisation more particularly being between 1 and 2, and better still from 1.1 to 1.5 on average.

[0226] The glucosidic bonds between the sugar units are generally of 1-6 or 1-4 type and preferably of 1-4 type.

[0227] Preferably, the alkyl (poly)glycoside is an alkyl (poly)glucoside.

[0228] Preferentially, the non-ionic surfactants are chosen from (C6-C24alkyl)polyglycosides, such as coco glucoside, caprylyl / capryl glucoside, lauryl glucoside, decyl glucoside and cetearyl glucoside, and mixtures thereof.

[0229] Preferentially, the composition comprises one or more non-ionic surfactants chosen from (C6-C24alkyl) (poly)glycosides, alone or as a mixture, and more particularly (C8-C18alkyl) (poly)glycosides.

[0230] Among the commercial products, mention may be made of the products sold by COGNIS under the names Planteren® (600 CS / U, 1200 and 2000) or Plantacare® (818, 1200 and 2000); the products sold by SEPPIC under the names Oramix CG 110 and Oramix® NS 10; the products sold by BASF under the name Lutensol GD 70; the products sold by CHEM Y under the name AG10 LK; the products sold by Evonik Goldschmidt under the trade names Tego Care CG 90 or Tego Care CG 90 MB, the products sold by SEPPIC under the trade names Montanov® L, Montanov® 68, Montanov® 68 MB, Montanov® 14 or Montanov® 202, or the products sold by BASF under the name Emulgade® PL 68 / 50.

[0231] Preferably, the total content of the non-ionic surfactant(s) of alkyl polyglycoside type ranges from 0.01% to 15% by weight, preferentially from 0.1% to 10% by weight, more preferentially from 0.2% to 8% by weight, better still from 0.3% to 6% by weight, and even more preferentially from 0.3% to 3% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0232] Polyol fatty acid ester and carboxylic or carboxylate anionic surfactant

[0233] According to a second particular embodiment, the composition in accordance with the invention comprises:

[0234] - at least one C12-C24fatty acid ester of a C2-C24polyol, preferably at least one C16-C18fatty acid ester of glycerol; and

[0235] - at least one carboxylic or carboxylate anionic surfactant chosen from amino acids modified with at least one C8-C30, preferably C8-C24, hydrocarbon-based chain, and salts thereof.

[0236] The C12-C24fatty acid for the fatty acid ester of a polyol, preferably the fatty acid ester of glycerol, can be a saturated or unsaturated acid, for example stearic acid, oleic acid or palmitic acid.

[0237] For the purposes of the present invention, the term “polyol” should be understood as meaning any organic molecule including at least two free hydroxyl groups.

[0238] The polyol for the fatty acid ester of a polyol can be a compound of linear, branched or cyclic, saturated or unsaturated alkyl type, bearing on the alkyl chain at least two OH functions and in particular at least three OH functions.

[0239] The polyols that are advantageously suitable for the fatty acid ester of a polyol are those preferably having 3 to 16 carbon atoms.

[0240] Advantageously, the polyol may be chosen, for example, from ethylene glycol, pentaerythritol, trimethylolpropane, propylene glycol, 1,3-propanediol, butylene glycol, isoprene glycol, pentylene glycol, hexylene glycol, polyglyceryl-3 and glycerol, and mixtures thereof.

[0241] According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, said polyol is chosen from 1,3-propanediol, polyglycerol-3, glycerol, pentylene glycol and mixtures thereof. It is preferably glycerol.

[0242] According to one particular embodiment of the invention, the composition comprises at least one C12-C24fatty acid ester of glycerol.

[0243] By way of examples of C12-C24fatty acid esters of glycerol, mention may be made of glyceryl laurate, glyceryl oleate, glyceryl stearate, glyceryl palmitate, and a mixture thereof.

[0244] As commercially available products, mention may be made of glyceryl stearate, such as the product sold under the name Tegin MO by Evonik Goldschmidt, and glyceryl laurate, such as the product sold under the name Imwitor 312O by Hiils.

[0245] Use may also be made of the monoglyceride stearates (INCI name: Glycerol Stearate), for example sold under the name Dimodan HP by Danisco, or those sold under the name Tegin 90 by Evonik Goldschmidt.

[0246] Preferably, the C12-C24fatty acid of glycerol is glyceryl stearate.

[0247] Advantageously, the C12-C24fatty acid esters of a C2-C24polyol are present in the composition in accordance with the invention in an amount ranging from 0.1% to 2% by weight, preferably ranging from 0.2% to 0.8% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0248] The term “hydrocarbon-based chain” is intended to mean a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated organic group constituted mainly of hydrogen atoms and carbon atoms, in which one or more carbon atoms can be replaced with an oxygen atom or a nitrogen atom. As examples of C8-C30hydrocarbon-based chains, mention may be made of C8-C30acyl radicals.

[0249] By way of examples of amino acids, mention may be made of alanine, arginine, aspartic acid, glutamic acid, glycine, isoleucine, leucine, lysine, phenylalanine, serine, tyrosine, valine and sarcosine.

[0250] More specifically, mention may be made, by way of carboxylate anionic surfactants chosen from the salts of amino acids modified with at least one fatty chain, of the following compounds: dipotassium capryloyl glutamate, dipotassium undecylenoyl glutamate, disodium capryloyl glutamate, disodium cocoyl glutamate, disodium lauroyl glutamate, disodium stearoyl glutamate, disodium undecylenoyl glutamate, potassium capryloyl glutamate, potassium cocoyl glutamate, potassium lauroyl glutamate, potassium myristoyl glutamate, potassium stearoyl glutamate, potassium undecylenoyl glutamate, sodium capryloyl glutamate, sodium cocoyl glutamate, sodium lauroyl glutamate, sodium myristoyl glutamate, sodium olivoyl glutamate, sodium palmitoyl glutamate, sodium stearoyl glutamate, sodium undecylenoyl glutamate, cocoyl methyl β-alaninate, lauroyl β-alaninate, lauroyl methyl β-alaninate, myristoyl β-alaninate, potassium lauroyl methyl β-alaninate, sodium cocoyl alaninate, sodium cocoyl methyl β-alaninate and sodium myristoyl methyl β-alaninate palmitoyl glycinate, sodium lauroyl glycinate, sodium cocoyl glycinate, sodium myristoyl glycinate, potassium lauroyl glycinate, potassium cocoyl glycinate, potassium lauroyl sarcosinate, potassium cocoyl sarcosinate, sodium cocoyl sarcosinate, sodium lauroyl sarcosinate, sodium myristoyl sarcosinate, sodium oleoyl sarcosinate, sodium palmitoyl sarcosinate ammonium lauroyl sarcosinate, sodium lauroyl aspartate, sodium myristoyl aspartate, sodium cocoyl aspartate, sodium caproyl aspartate, disodium lauroyl aspartate, disodium myristoyl aspartate, disodium cocoyl aspartate, disodium caproyl aspartate, potassium lauroyl aspartate, potassium myristoyl aspartate, potassium cocoyl aspartate, potassium caproyl aspartate, dipotassium lauroyl aspartate, dipotassium myristoyl aspartate, dipotassium cocoyl aspartate, dipotassium caproyl aspartate, and mixtures thereof.

[0251] According to one particular embodiment of the invention, the carboxylic or carboxylate anionic surfactant(s) are chosen from the compounds having the following structure:

[0252]

[0253] in which:

[0254] Z represents a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched hydrocarbon-based group comprising from 8 to 24 carbon atoms, preferably from 8 to 22 carbon atoms;

[0255] X is a hydrogen atom or a methyl group;

[0256] n is equal to 0 or to 1;

[0257] Y is a group chosen from a hydrogen atom and a -CH3, -CH(CH3)2, -CH2CH(CH3)2, -CH(CH3)CH2CH3, -CH2C6H5, -CH2C2H4OH, -CH2OH, -CH(OH)CH3, -(CH2)4NH2, -(CH2)3NHC(NH)NH2, -CH2C(O)O-M+, -(CH2)2C(O)OH and -(CH2)2C(O)O-M+group; and

[0258] M is a hydrogen atom or a cation such as sodium, potassium, ammonium or triethanolamine.

[0259] According to one preferred embodiment, in formula 2:

[0260] Z represents a linear or branched C8-C22alkyl or alkenyl group;

[0261] X is a hydrogen atom or a methyl radical;

[0262] n is equal to 0;

[0263] Y is a hydrogen atom, a -(CH2)2C(O)OH group or a -(CH2)2C(O)O-M+group; and

[0264] M is a cation such as sodium, potassium, ammonium or triethanolamine.

[0265] According to one particular embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one acyl glutamic acid (INCI name: acyl glutamic acid) or a salt thereof (acyl glutamates).

[0266] Preferably, the acyl glutamic acid(s) are chosen from acyl glutamic acids in which the acyl group comprises from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably from 10 to 24 carbon atoms and even more preferentially from 12 to 22 carbon atoms, such as lauroylglutamic acid, myristoylglutamic acid, palmitoylglutamic acid, stearoylglutamic acid, behenoylglutamic acid, olivoylglutamic acid, cocoylglutamic acid, and the salts of these acids, especially the salts of alkali metals such as Na, Li or K, preferably Na or K, the salts of alkaline-earth metals such as Mg, or the ammonium salts of said acids.

[0267] Preferably, mention may be made, by way of salts of amino acids modified with at least one C8-C30hydrocarbon-based chain, of glutamate salts, and in particular dipotassium capryloyl glutamate, dipotassium undecylenoyl glutamate, disodium capryloyl glutamate, disodium cocoyl glutamate, disodium lauroyl glutamate, disodium stearoyl glutamate, disodium undecylenoyl glutamate, potassium capryloyl glutamate, potassium cocoyl glutamate, potassium lauroyl glutamate, potassium myristoyl glutamate, potassium stearoyl glutamate, potassium undecylenoyl glutamate, sodium capryloyl glutamate, sodium cocoyl glutamate, sodium lauroyl glutamate, sodium myristoyl glutamate, sodium olivoyl glutamate, sodium palmitoyl glutamate, sodium stearoyl glutamate, sodium undecylenoyl glutamate.

[0268] Preferably, the acyl glutamic acid(s) or a salt thereof are chosen from lauroylglutamic acids, cocoylglutamic acids, sodium stearoyl glutamate, potassium lauroyl glutamate, potassium cocoyl glutamate, sodium olivoyl glutamate and mixtures thereof.

[0269] More preferentially, the acyl glutamic acid or a salt thereof is sodium stearoyl glutamate (INCI name).

[0270] Such compounds are sold under the name Amisoft by Ajinomoto and in particular under the references Amisoft CA, Amisoft LA, Amisoft HS 11 PF, Amisoft MK-11, Amisoft LK-11 and Amisoft CK-11, or alternatively under the name Eumulgin SG by Cognis.

[0271] Mention may also be made of triethanolamine cocoyl glutamate sold under the name Amisoft CT12 by Ajinomoto, and triethanolamine lauroyl glutamate sold under the name Acylglutamate LT-12 by Ajinomoto.

[0272] As acyl glutamic acid salts, mention may also be made of sodium hydrogenated tallowoyl glutamate, such as the product sold under the reference Acylglutamate HS 11 by Ajinomoto and disodium hydrogenated tallow glutamate, such as the product sold under the reference Acylglutamate HS-21 by Ajinomoto.

[0273] Mention may also be made of commercial mixtures of surfactants comprising at least one glutamic acid derivative or a salt of said derivative, for instance the mixture of acyl glutamate salts such as Amisoft LS-22 sold by Ajinomoto.

[0274] According to one preferred embodiment of the invention, the monosodium salt of n-stearoyl-L-glutamic acid (INCI name: sodium stearoyl glutamate), such as the product sold by Ajinomoto under the reference Amisoft HS 11 PF, is used.

[0275] The amino acid(s) modified with at least one C8-C30hydrocarbon-based chain, and salts thereof, may be present in the composition in a total content ranging from 0.01% to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.01% to 2% by weight, more preferentially from 0.05% to 1% by weight, better still from 0.1% to 0.8% by weight, and even better still from 0.1% to 0.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.C12-C24 Saturated fatty alcohols

[0276] The composition in accordance with the invention can also comprise at least one C12-C24saturated fatty alcohol.

[0277] According to one particular embodiment of the invention, the C12-C24saturated fatty alcohols are linear. Preferably, the fatty alcohols comprise from 14 to 22 carbon atoms.

[0278] The fatty alcohol(s) that can be used in the context of the present invention can in particular be chosen from cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, cetearyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, lauryl alcohol, tridecyl alcohol, pentadecyl alcohol, hexadecyl alcohol, arachidyl alcohol and behenyl alcohol. They are preferably chosen from cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol and cetearyl alcohol

[0279] As cetyl alcohol that is most particularly suitable for the invention, use may for example be made of those sold under the names Ecorol® 16 / 98 F and Ecorol® 16 / 98 P by Ecogreen Oleochemicals, Tegoalkanol® 16 by Evonik Goldschmidt, Lanette® 16 by Cognis, Vegarol® 1698 by VVF, Alkonat® 1698 P by Oxiteno, Cetyl Alcohol 98% MIN by Emery Oleochemicals, Ginol® 16 (98%) by Godrej Industries, Nacol® 16-98 by Sasol, Kalcol® 6098 by Kao and Acilol® 16 by Aegis Chemical.

[0280] As stearyl alcohol that is most particularly suitable for the invention, use may for example be made of those sold under the names Tegoalkanol® 18 by Evonik Goldschmidt, Ecorol® F and Ecorol® 18 / 98 P by Ecogreen Oleochemicals, Lanette® 18 by Cognis, Kalcol® 8098 by Kao, Acilol®18 by Aegis Chemical, Nacol® 18-98 by Sasol and NAA® 45 Nihon Yushi.

[0281] As cetylstearyl alcohols that are most particularly suitable for use in the invention, use may for example be made of those sold under the names Ecorol® 68 / 50 F and Ecorol® 68 / 50 P by Ecogreen Oleochemicals, Lanette® O OR and Lanette® O OR Flakes by Cognis, Alkonat® 1618 C50 P by Oxiteno, Nafol® 16-18 EN by Sasol, Alcohol Cetoestearilico 50 / 50 by Industria Quimica Del Centro, Conol® 30 CK by New Japan Chemical, Cetylstearyl Alcohol 50:50 by Evonik Goldschmidt, Kalcol® 6850 by Kao, Vegarol® 1618 (50:50) by VVF and Ginol® 1618 50:50 OR by Godrej Industries.

[0282] As behenyl alcohol that is most particularly suitable for use in the invention, use may be made, for example, of those sold under the name Lanette® 22 by BASF.

[0283] The composition according to the invention has an alpha-gel structure, that is to say that it has a lamellar phase, due to the presence of a surfactant and of a C12-C24saturated fatty alcohol.

[0284] Advantageously, the C12-C24saturated fatty alcohol(s) are present in the composition in an amount ranging from 0.1% to 5% by weight, preferably ranging from 0.2% to 3% by weight, and even more preferentially ranging from 0.5% to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.Waxes

[0285] The composition in accordance with the invention may also comprise at least one wax.

[0286] For the purposes of the present invention, the term “wax” means a deformable or undeformable lipophilic compound, which is solid at ambient temperature (25°C), with a reversible solid / liquid change of state, having a melting point of greater than or equal to 30°C, which may be up to 120°C. In particular, the waxes that are suitable for use in the invention may have a melting point of greater than or equal to 60°C and in particular greater than or equal to 70°C.

[0287] The term “lipophilic compound” refers to a compound having an acid number and a hydroxyl number of less than 150 mg KOH / g.

[0288] For the purposes of the invention, the melting point corresponds to the temperature of the most endothermic peak observed on thermal analysis (DSC) as described in the standard ISO 11357-3; 1999. The melting point of the wax may be measured using a differential scanning calorimeter (DSC), for example the calorimeter sold under the name MDSC 2920 by TA Instruments or the calorimeter sold under the name DSC Q100 by TA Instruments with the TA Universal Analysis software.

[0289] The measuring protocol is as follows:

[0290] A sample of 5 mg of wax placed in a crucible is subjected to a first temperature ramp passing from -20°C to 100°C, at a heating rate of 10°C / minute, it is then cooled from 100°C to -20°C at a cooling rate of 10°C / minute and is finally subjected to a second temperature ramp passing from -20°C to 100°C at a heating rate of 5°C / minute. During the second temperature ramp, the variation in the difference in power absorbed by the empty crucible and by the crucible containing the sample of wax is measured as a function of the temperature. The melting point of the compound is the temperature value corresponding to the top of the peak of the curve representing the variation in the difference in power absorbed as a function of the temperature.

[0291] The waxes can be hydrocarbon-based waxes, silicone waxes and / or fluoro waxes, and can be of plant, animal, mineral and / or synthetic origin.

[0292] The wax(es) may be present in each composition in a total content ranging from 0.01% to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.1% to 3% by weight and better still from 0.2% to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0293] According to one particular embodiment, the composition in accordance with the invention comprises at least one wax of plant origin.

[0294] According to one preferred embodiment, the composition in accordance with the invention comprises at least one jojoba ester wax.

[0295] The jojoba ester wax may be in an unsaturated form of jojoba esters, which may be the entirely hydrogenated jojoba ester having the formula below:

[0296]

[0297] in which:

[0298] R1is a CH3-(CH2)ygroup, y is equal to 16, 18, 20 or 22.

[0299] The jojoba ester wax can be obtained by hydrogenation of a jojoba ester wax (jojoba oil) having the formula below:

[0300]

[0301] in which x and y are equal to 6, 8, 10 or 12.

[0302] The jojoba ester waxes are composed of straight-chain monounsaturated fatty alcohols and of monounsaturated fatty acids. The only double bond is located in the middle (position n-9), starting from the methyl end group (-CH3) of the chain of the respective fatty acid or alcohol.

[0303] Such ester waxes are composed of fatty alcohols and of fatty acids with an even number of carbon atoms, mainly 20 and 22 carbon atoms. The resulting material comprises esters having chain lengths of 38, 40, 42 and 44 carbon atoms, with a small amount of esters of 36 and 46 carbon atoms being present. The typical composition of the ester waxes is indicated below.Ester waxes(X, Y)Chain lengthtypical % (surface by GPC)(6, 6)361(6, 8) (8, 6)388(6, 10) (8, 8) (10, 6)4039(10, 8) (8, 10)4238(10, 10)4413(12, 10) (10, 12)461

[0304] The jojoba ester wax can be derived from the seed of the jojoba plant (Simmondsia chinensis).

[0305] By way of examples of a jojoba ester wax, mention may be made of the product sold under the name Floraesters® 70 by International Flora Technologies Ltd, and the products sold under the name Jojoba Esters-70 by Vantage.

[0306] Advantageously, the jojoba ester wax is present in the composition in an amount ranging from 0.1% to 2% by weight and preferably from 0.2% to 0.8% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0307] According to another preferred embodiment, the composition according to the present invention comprises at least one additional hydrocarbon-based wax in addition to the jojoba ester mentioned above.

[0308] By way of examples of hydrocarbon-based waxes, mention may be made of beeswax, lanolin wax or Chinese insect wax, rice wax, carnauba wax, candelilla wax, ouricury wax, esparto grass wax, cork fibre wax, sugar cane wax, Japan wax, Berry wax, shellac wax and sumac wax, Helianthus annuus (sunflower) wax, montan wax, microcrystalline waxes, paraffins and ozokerite; use may in particular be made of polyethylene waxes, polymethylene waxes, waxes obtained by Fischer-Tropsch synthesis and waxy copolymers, and also esters thereof.

[0309] Mention may in particular be made of beeswax, for example the product sold under the name White beeswax BR G889 by Koster Keunen, carnauba wax, for example sold under the name Cerauba T1 Bio by Baerlocher, Helianthus annuus (sunflower) wax sold under the name Sunflower Wax by Koster Keunen, or a mixture thereof.

[0310] Preferably, the composition of the present invention comprises Helianthus annuus (sunflower) seed wax.

[0311] When it is present, the additional hydrocarbon-based wax is present in the composition in an amount ranging from 0.05% to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.1% to 1% by weight and more preferably from 0.1% to 0.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0312] According to one particular embodiment of the invention, the composition comprises a mixture of glyceryl stearate, sodium stearoyl glutamate, cetearyl alcohol, jojoba esters and sunflower seed wax, having the INCI name Cetearyl Alcohol (and) Jojoba Esters (and) Glyceryl Stearate (and) Sodium Stearoyl Glutamate (and) Helianthus Annus Seed Cera (and) Polyglycerin-3, sold under the name Emulium® Dolcea MB by Gattefosse.

[0313] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the composition is an oil-in-water emulsion and comprises:

[0314] - at least one UV-screening agent;

[0315] -at least one lipophilic acrylic polymer as defined previously;

[0316] - at least one scleroglucan gum;

[0317] - at least one C12-C24saturated fatty alcohol;

[0318] - at least one non-ionic surfactant of the alkyl polyglycoside type.

[0319] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the composition is an oil-in-water emulsion and comprises:

[0320] - at least one UV-screening agent;

[0321] -at least one lipophilic acrylic polymer as defined previously;

[0322] - at least one scleroglucan gum;

[0323] - at least one C12-C24saturated fatty alcohol;

[0324] - at least one C12-C24fatty acid ester of glycerol;

[0325] - at least one carboxylic or carboxylate anionic surfactant chosen from amino acids modified with at least one C8-C24hydrocarbon-based chain, and salts thereof; and

[0326] - at least one wax.

[0327] According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the composition is an oil-in-water emulsion and comprises:

[0328] - at least one UV-screening agent;

[0329] -at least one lipophilic acrylic polymer as defined previously;

[0330] - at least one scleroglucan gum;

[0331] - at least one C12-C24saturated fatty alcohol;

[0332] - at least one C12-C24fatty acid ester of glycerol;

[0333] - at least one carboxylic or carboxylate anionic surfactant chosen from amino acids modified with at least one C8-C24hydrocarbon-based chain, and salts thereof; and

[0334] - at least one jojoba ester wax.

[0335] Preferably, the composition comprises:

[0336] - at least one UV-screening agent;

[0337] -at least one lipophilic acrylic polymer as defined previously;

[0338] - at least one scleroglucan gum;

[0339] - at least one C12-C24saturated fatty alcohol;

[0340] - at least one C12-C24fatty acid ester of glycerol;

[0341] - at least one acyl glutamic acid (INCI name: acyl glutamic acid) or a salt thereof (acyl glutamates), the acyl group being a C10-C30, preferably C12-C22, acyl group; and

[0342] - at least one jojoba ester wax.

[0343] According to another particular embodiment of the invention, the composition is an oil-in-water emulsion and comprises:

[0344] - at least one UV-screening agent;

[0345] -at least one lipophilic acrylic polymer as defined previously;

[0346] - at least one scleroglucan gum;

[0347] - at least one C12-C24saturated fatty alcohol;

[0348] - at least one C12-C24fatty acid ester of glycerol;

[0349] - at least one carboxylic or carboxylate anionic surfactant chosen from amino acids modified with at least one C8-C24hydrocarbon-based chain, and salts thereof;

[0350] - at least one jojoba ester wax; and

[0351] - at least one Helianthus annuus (sunflower) seed wax.

[0352] Preferably, the composition comprises:

[0353] - at least one UV-screening agent;

[0354] -at least one lipophilic acrylic polymer as defined previously;

[0355] - at least one scleroglucan gum;

[0356] - at least one C12-C24saturated fatty alcohol;

[0357] - at least one C12-C24fatty acid ester of glycerol;

[0358] - at least one acyl glutamic acid (INCI name: acyl glutamic acid) or a salt thereof (acyl glutamates), the acyl group being a C10-C30, preferably C12-C22, acyl group;

[0359] - at least one jojoba ester wax; and

[0360] - at least one Helianthus annuus (sunflower) seed wax.

[0361] According to one particularly preferred embodiment, the present invention proposes a fluid composition for skin care, in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion, comprising, relative to the total weight of the composition:

[0362] (i) at least one UV-screening agent;

[0363] (ii) from 0.05% to 10% by weight of a lipophilic acrylic polymer comprising monomer units of formulae (A) and (B):

[0364]

[0365] in which:

[0366] R1, independently at each instance, is chosen from alkyl or alkyenyl radicals,

[0367] and

[0368] at least 60% by weight of the R1groups are radicals chosen from stearyl and behenyl radicals, the percentage by weight relating to the sum of all the R1groups present in the polymer,

[0369] and

[0370] the weight ratio of the sum of all the hydroxyethyl acrylate units to the sum of all the acrylate units bearing the R1group ranges from 1:30 to 1: 1,

[0371] and the sum of the total of units A and B is at least 95% by weight relative to the total weight of the polymer;

[0372] (iii) at least one scleroglucan gum;

[0373] (iv) from 0.2% by weight to 0.8% by weight of at least one jojoba ester wax of formula 3:

[0374]

[0375] where R1is CH3- (CH2)y-, y is 16, 18, 20 or 22;

[0376] (v) from 0.5% by weight to 2% by weight of at least one C12-C24saturated fatty alcohol chosen from cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol and cetearyl alcohol;

[0377] (vi) from 0.2% by weight to 0.8% by weight of at least one C12-C24fatty acid ester of glycerol chosen from glyceryl laurate, glyceryl oleate, glyceryl stearate, glyceryl palmitate, and a mixture thereof; and

[0378] (vii) from 0.1% by weight to 0.5% by weight of at least one surfactant chosen from acyl glutamic acids (INCI name: acyl glutamic acid) and salts thereof (acyl glutamates), the acyl group being a C10-C30, preferably C12-C22, acyl group; even more preferentially, it is the stearoyl radical.Fatty phase

[0379] The composition in accordance with the invention may comprise at least one fatty phase.

[0380] The fatty phase can be constituted by all of the fatty substances conventionally used in the cosmetics or dermatological fields; it comprises in particular the wax(es) defined previously and can comprise at least one oil. The fatty phase also comprises the lipophilic screening agent(s), and also the fatty alcohol(s) present in the composition according to the invention.

[0381] The term “oil” is intended to mean any fatty substance that is in liquid form at ambient temperature (20-25°C) and atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg). These oils may be volatile or non-volatile.

[0382] For the purposes of the invention, the term “volatile oil” refers to an oil that is capable of evaporating on contact with the skin or the keratin fibre in less than one hour, at ambient temperature and atmospheric pressure. The volatile oil(s) of the invention is (are) volatile cosmetic oils, which are liquid at ambient temperature, having a non-zero vapour pressure, at ambient temperature and atmospheric pressure, ranging in particular from 0.13 Pa to 40 000 Pa (10-3to 300 mmHg), in particular ranging from 1.3 Pa to 13 000 Pa (0.01 to 100 mmHg) and more particularly ranging from 1.3 Pa to 1300 Pa (0.01 to 10 mmHg).

[0383] The term “non-volatile oil” is intended to mean an oil that remains on the skin or the keratin fibre at ambient temperature and atmospheric pressure for at least several hours, and that notably has a vapour pressure of less than 10-3mmHg (0.13 Pa).

[0384] For the purposes of the present invention, the term “hydrocarbon-based oil” means any oil predominantly comprising carbon and hydrogen atoms, and optionally one or more heteroatoms, in particular nitrogen and oxygen. Thus, these oils can in particular contain one or more ester, ether, fluoro, carboxylic acid and / or alcohol groups.

[0385] The term “silicone oil” is intended to mean an oil comprising at least one silicon atom and especially at least one Si-O group.

[0386] Mention may in particular be made, as non-volatile hydrocarbon-based oils which can be used according to the invention, of:

[0387] (i) hydrocarbon-based oils of plant origin, such as glyceride triesters, which are generally triesters of fatty acids and of glycerol, the fatty acids of which can have varied chain lengths from C4to C24, it being possible for these chains to be saturated or unsaturated and linear or branched; these oils are in particular wheat germ oil, sunflower oil, grape seed oil, sesame oil, maize oil, apricot oil, castor oil, shea oil, avocado oil, olive oil, soybean oil, sweet almond oil, palm oil, rapeseed oil, cottonseed oil, hazelnut oil, macadamia oil, jojoba oil, alfalfa oil, poppy oil, red kuri squash oil, pumpkin oil, blackcurrant oil, evening primrose oil, millet oil, barley oil, quinoa oil, rye oil, safflower oil, candlenut oil, passionflower oil or musk rose oil; or alternatively triglycerides of caprylic / capric acids, such as those sold by Stearinerie Dubois or those sold under the names Miglyol 810®, 812® and 818® by Dynamit Nobel;

[0388] (ii) synthetic ethers having from 10 to 40 carbon atoms;

[0389] (iii) linear or branched hydrocarbons of mineral or synthetic origin, such as liquid petroleum, polydecenes, hydrogenated polyisobutene, such as parleam, squalane and mixtures thereof;

[0390] (iv) synthetic esters, such as the oils of formula RCOOR' in which R represents the residue of a linear or branched fatty acid comprising from 1 to 40 carbon atoms and R' represents a hydrocarbon-based chain, in particular branched hydrocarbon-based chain, containing from 1 to 40 carbon atoms, with the proviso that R + R' ≥ 10, such as, for example, Purcellin oil (cetostearyl octanoate), isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, C12-C15alkyl benzoate, such as the product sold under the trade name Finsolv TN® or Witconol TN® by Witco or Tegosoft TN® by Evonik Goldschmidt, 2-ethylphenyl benzoate, such as the commercial product sold under the name X-Tend 226® by ISP, isopropyl lanolate, hexyl laurate, diisopropyl adipate, isononyl isononanoate, oleyl erucate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, isostearyl isostearate, diisopropyl sebacate, such as the product sold under the name Dub Dis by Stearinerie Dubois, octanoates, decanoates or ricinoleates of alcohols or of polyalcohols, such as propylene glycol dioctanoate; hydroxylated esters, such as isostearyl lactate or diisostearyl malate; and pentaerythritol esters; citrates or tartrates, such as di(linear C12-C13alkyl) tartrates, such as those sold under the name Cosmacol ETI® by Enichem Augusta Industriale, and also di(linear C14-C15alkyl) tartrates, such as those sold under the name Cosmacol ETL® by the same company; acetates;

[0391] (v) fatty alcohols which are liquid at ambient temperature and which have a branched and / or unsaturated carbon chain comprising from 12 to 26 carbon atoms, such as octyldodecanol, isostearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, 2-hexyldecanol, 2-butyloctanol or 2-undecylpentadecanol;

[0392] (vi) carbonates, such as dicaprylyl carbonate, such as the product sold under the name Cetiol CC® by Cognis;

[0393] and mixtures thereof.

[0394] Among the non-volatile hydrocarbon-based oils which can be used according to the invention, preference will be given more particularly to glyceride triesters and in particular to caprylic / capric acid triglycerides, synthetic esters and in particular diisopropyl adipate, diisopropyl sebacate, isopropyl palmitate, dicaprylyl carbonate, isononyl isononanoate, oleyl erucate, C12-C15alkyl benzoate, 2-ethylphenyl benzoate and fatty alcohols, in particular octyldodecanol. Preferably, the non-volatile hydrocarbon-based oils are chosen from diisopropyl adipate, diisopropyl sebacate, isopropyl palmitate and dicaprylyl carbonate.

[0395] As volatile hydrocarbon-based oils that may be used according to the invention, mention may notably be made of hydrocarbon-based oils containing from 8 to 16 carbon atoms and notably branched C8-C16alkanes, such as C8-C16isoalkanes of petroleum origin (also known as isoparaffins), such as isododecane (also known as 2,2,4,4,6-pentamethylheptane), isodecane or isohexadecane, the oils sold under the Isopar or Permethyl trade names, branched C8-C16esters, isohexyl neopentanoate, and mixtures thereof.

[0396] Mention may also be made of the alkanes described in the Cognis patent applications WO 2007 / 068 371 or WO 2008 / 155 059 (mixtures of distinct alkanes differing by at least one carbon). These alkanes are obtained from fatty alcohols, which are themselves obtained from coconut kernel or palm oil. Mention may be made of the mixtures of n-undecane (C11) and n-tridecane (C13) obtained in Examples 1 and 2 of application WO 2008 / 155 059 from Cognis. Mention may also be made of n-dodecane (C12) and n-tetradecane (C14) sold by Sasol respectively under the references Parafol 12-97 and Parafol 14-97®, and also mixtures thereof.

[0397] Other volatile hydrocarbon-based oils, such as petroleum distillates, in particular those sold under the name Shell Solt® by Shell, can also be used. According to one embodiment, the volatile solvent is chosen from volatile hydrocarbon-based oils having from 8 to 16 carbon atoms, and mixtures thereof.

[0398] The non-volatile silicone oils can be chosen in particular from non-volatile polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMSs), polydimethylsiloxanes comprising alkyl or alkoxy groups, which groups are pendent and / or at the end of the silicone chain and each have from 2 to 24 carbon atoms, or phenylated silicones, such as phenyl trimethicones, phenyl dimethicones, phenyl(trimethylsiloxy)diphenylsiloxanes, diphenyl dimethicones, diphenyl(methyldiphenyl)trisiloxanes or (2-phenylethyl)trimethylsiloxysilicates.

[0399] Volatile silicone oils that may be mentioned, for example, include volatile linear or cyclic silicone oils, in particular those with a viscosity ≤ 8 centistokes (8×10-6m2 / s) and in particular containing from 2 to 7 silicon atoms, these silicones optionally comprising alkyl or alkoxy groups containing from 1 to 10 carbon atoms. Mention may in particular be made, as volatile silicone oil which can be used in the invention, of octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane, heptamethylhexyltrisiloxane, heptamethyloctyltrisiloxane, hexamethyldisiloxane, octamethyltrisiloxane, decamethyltetrasiloxane, dodecamethylpentasiloxane and mixtures thereof.

[0400] Mention may also be made of the volatile linear alkyltrisiloxane oils such as:

[0401] 3-butyl-1,1,1,3,5,5,5-heptamethyltrisiloxane,

[0402] 3-propyl-1,1,1,3,5,5,5-heptamethyltrisiloxane, and

[0403] 3-ethyl-1,1,1,3,5,5,5-heptamethyltrisiloxane.

[0404] Use may also be made of volatile fluoro oils, such as nonafluoromethoxybutane, nonafluoromethoxybutane, decafluoropentane, tetradecafluorohexane, dodecafluoropentane, and mixtures thereof.

[0405] The fatty phase according to the invention can additionally comprise other fatty substances, mixed with or dissolved in the oil.

[0406] Another fatty substance which can be present in the oily phase can, for example, be:

[0407] - a fatty acid such as fatty acids containing from 8 to 30 carbon atoms different from fatty chain amino acids as defined above, such as stearic acid, lauric acid, palmitic acid and oleic acid; preferably, C12-C22higher fatty acids, such as oleic acid, linoleic acid or linolenic acid;

[0408] - a gum chosen from silicone gums (dimethiconol);

[0409] - a pasty compound, such as polymeric or non-polymeric silicone compounds, esters of a glycerol oligomer, arachidyl propionate, fatty acid triglycerides and derivatives thereof;

[0410] - and mixtures thereof.

[0411] Preferentially, the overall fatty phase, including all the lipophilic substances of the composition capable of being dissolved in this same phase, including the lipophilic screening agents, represents from 5% to 95% by weight and preferentially from 10% to 80% by weight, with respect to the total weight of the composition.Aqueous phase

[0412] The composition in accordance with the invention can comprise at least one aqueous phase.

[0413] The aqueous phase contains water and optionally other water-soluble or water-miscible organic solvents.

[0414] An aqueous phase which is suitable for the invention can comprise, for example, a water chosen from a natural spring water, such as water from La Roche-Posay, water from Vittel, water from Saint-Gervais Mont-Blanc or waters from Vichy, or a floral water.

[0415] The water-soluble or water-miscible solvents which are suitable for the invention comprise short-chain monoalcohols, for example C1-C4monoalcohols, such as ethanol or isopropanol; diols or polyols, such as ethylene glycol, 1,2-propylene glycol, 1,3-butylene glycol, hexylene glycol, diethylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, 2-ethoxyethanol, diethylene glycol monomethyl ether, triethylene glycol monomethyl ether, glycerol and sorbitol, and mixtures thereof.

[0416] According to one particular embodiment of the invention, the composition comprises an amount of glycerol of less than 10% by weight of the total weight of the composition.

[0417] According to a specific form of the invention, the overall aqueous phase, including all the hydrophilic substances of the composition capable of being dissolved in this same phase, represents from 5% to 95% by weight and preferentially from 10% to 80% by weight, with respect to the total weight of the composition.

[0418] According to a particular embodiment, the pH of the composition in accordance with the invention is greater than or equal to 6.

[0419] According to a preferred embodiment, the pH of the composition in accordance with the invention is between 6.0 and 11.0. Preferably, the pH of the composition in accordance with the invention is between 6.0 and 9.0. Even more preferentially, the pH of the composition in accordance with the invention is between 6.0 and 7.8.

[0420] The pH of the composition in accordance with the invention can be measured using a Mettler Toledo MPC227, SevenEasy pH or SevenGo SG2 pH meter at ambient temperature (25°C) and atmospheric pressure.Cosmetic active ingredients

[0421] The composition of the present invention may comprise at least one cosmetic active agent.

[0422] As examples of cosmetic active agents, mention may be made of moisturising agents such as protein hydrolysates, polyglycerin-3; natural extracts; vitamins and derivatives thereof (in particular esters thereof), and also mixtures thereof; urea; caffeine; salicylic acid and derivatives thereof; alpha-hydroxy acids and derivatives thereof; retinoids; extracts of algae, of fungi, of plants, of yeasts and of bacteria; enzymes; tensioning agents; agents which act on the microcirculation, and mixtures thereof.

[0423] According to one particular embodiment of the invention, the composition comprises at least one moisturising agent. It is preferably polyglycerin-3.

[0424] It is easy for a person skilled in the art to adjust the amount of cosmetic active ingredient depending on the final use of the composition according to the present invention.Additional adjuvants or additives

[0425] The composition of the present invention may also comprise conventional cosmetic adjuvants or additives, for example fragrances, chelating agents (for example, tetrasodium glutamate diacetate and disodium EDTA), preservatives (for example, chlorphenesin and phenoxyethanol) and bactericides, surfactants, additional co-emulsifiers and / or thickeners (such as an acryloyldimethyltaurate homopolymer or an acrylamide / sodium acryloyldimethyltaurate copolymer, an acrylates / C10-30alkyl acrylate crosspolymer copolymer, hydroxypropylguar), pH regulators (e.g. triethanolamine, citric acid and sodium hydroxide), fillers (e.g. aluminium starch octenylsuccinate and polymethylsilsesquioxane) and mixtures thereof.

[0426] A person skilled in the art can select the amount of additional adjuvants or additives in such a way as to not be detrimental to the final use of the composition according to the present invention.Examples

[0427] The examples that follow serve to illustrate the invention without, however, being limiting in nature. In these examples, the amounts of the composition ingredients are given as % by weight of starting materials or of active materials, relative to the total weight of the composition.Protocol for evaluating the screening efficiency

[0428] In vitro: The sun protection factor (SPF) is determined according to the “in vitro” method described by M. Pissavini et al. in the International Journal of Cosmetic Science, 40, 263–268 (2018), on the basis of initial absorbance.

[0429] The in vitro UVA protection factor (UVAPF) of a sunscreen product against UVA radiation is calculated mathematically by in vitro spectral modelling according to the ISO 24443: 2012 (Fr) protocol.

[0430] Each composition is applied to six rough plates of PMMA, in the form of a homogeneous and even deposit in a proportion of 1 mg / cm2. Each composition is spread using an automated robot which makes even and uniform movements on three plates termed HD6 (moulded granular plates) and three plates termed SB6 (sandy granular plates). The plate is weighed before and after spreading. Once the spreading has been done on the six plates, the latter are left to stand in Thermo-Masters in the dark at 25°C for 30 minutes. The measurements are carried out by means of a UV-1000S spectrophotometer from Labsphere. Nine measurements are carried out per plate, then the measurements are analysed using an Excel spreadsheet which provides the SPF and PPD values of the composition measured.Protocol for evaluating viscosity

[0431] The viscosity is evaluated using a Rheomat RM200 viscometer (Lamy company) at 25°C. An MSR-2 spindle is used due to the fluid texture of the formula. The viscometer is calibrated, then the spindle is introduced into the product and left to rotate at 200 rpm for 10 minutes. The viscosity measurement is taken at 10 minutes.

[0432] Protocol for evaluating the stability of the compositions of the invention

[0433] Each composition is placed in an incubator at 55°C for one week in 30 ml flasks. After one week, the compositions are removed and their appearance is analysed macroscopically and microscopically.Example 5 - Compositions 1 to 4

[0434] The following compositions are prepared (amounts of active materials).PhaseComposition1234A1WATER36.236.23636.2A1TRISODIUM ETHYLENEDIAMINE DISUCCINATE0.30.30.30.3A1HYDROXYACETOPHENONE0.50.50.50.5A1CAPRYLYL GLYCOL0.50.50.50.5A1PROPANEDIOL3333A1CETEARYL ALCOHOL (and) JOJOBA ESTERS (and) GLYCERYL STEARATE (and) SODIUM STEAROYL GLUTAMATE (and) HELIANTHUS ANNUUS (SUNFLOWER) SEED WAX (and) POLYGLYCERIN-31.51.51.5-A1SODIUM STEAROYL GLUTAMATE0.50.50.50.5A1GLYCEROL7777A2SODIUM STARCH OCTENYLSUCCINATE (and) HYDROXYPROPYL STARCH PHOSPHATE0.50.50.50.5A2SCLEROTIUM GUM0.50.5-0.5A2XANTHAN GUM--0.7-B1OCTOCRYLENE7777B1ETHYLHEXYL SALICYLATE5555B1BUTYL METHOXYDIBENZOYLMETHANE3333B1HOMOSALATE7777B1C14-C22ALCOHOLS (and) C12-C20ALKYL GLUCOSIDE---1.5B1C12-C22ALKYL ACRYLATE / HYDROXYETHYL ACRYLATE COPOLYMER(Tego SP Senstar from EVONIK)1.5-1.51.5B1SYNTHETIC WAX-1.5--B1C15-19 ALKANE5555B1TOCOPHEROL1111CWATER20202020Method of preparation

[0435] The various phases are weighed out separately. Phase A1 is heated to 80°C, phase B1 is heated to 80°C. When the phases have reached a temperature of 80°C, the gelling agents are added, phase A1 is placed in the beaker under the ultra turrax turbine and the turbine is actuated in position 4 (speed range of the apparatus 3000 to 25 000 rpm), then stirring is carried out with the turbine until complete dispersion of the gelling agents. Emulsification is carried out by adding phase B1, still with turbine mixing at speed 4, to phase A1 until the formula is homogeneous. The speed is reduced to 2 and phase C is quickly added. The turbine is quickly stopped after this introduction. Cooling of the formula to 25°C is finished with a deflocculator in a cooling bath containing cold water + ice.Results obtained

[0436] The results obtained are as follows:Composition1 (invention)2 (comparative)Macroscopic appearance at time t = 0 and at temperature T = 25°CFluid creamFluid creamViscosity (mPa.s)at 10 minutes483280in vitro SPF53.0 ± 2.823.3 ± 0.9Stability1 week at 55°CMacroscopic examination:Appearance, colour, odour:Unscented, shiny, white fluid creamMicroscopy:Moderately tight, isotropic, homogeneous fine emulsion.Macroscopic examination:Appearance, colour, odour:Unscented, shiny, white fluid creamMicroscopy:Moderately tight, isotropic, homogeneous fine emulsion.Composition3 (comparative)4 (invention)Macroscopic appearanceFluid creamFluid creamViscosity (mPa.s)at 30 seconds and then at 10 minutes509479in vitro SPF40.9 ± 1.854.0 ± 2.3Stability1 week at 55°CMacroscopic examination:Appearance, colour, odour:Unscented, shiny, white fluid creamMicroscopy:Moderately tight, isotropic, homogeneous fine emulsion.Macroscopic examination:Appearance, colour, odour:Unscented, shiny, white fluid creamMicroscopy:Moderately tight, isotropic, homogeneous fine emulsion.

[0437] These results show that Compositions 1 and 4 in accordance with the invention lead to better sun protection than Comparative Composition 2 in which the semi-crystalline polymer has been replaced with a synthetic wax, and Comparative Composition 3 in which the scleroglucan gum has been replaced with xanthan gum, while retaining good stability.

Claims

Composition, in particular cosmetic or dermatological composition, comprising:- at least one UV-screening agent;- at least one semi-crystalline polymer containing at least one alkyl acrylate chain, preferably the copolymers obtained by copolymerisation of a monomer chosen from alkyl acrylates and alkyl methacrylates with a hydrophilic monomer, preferably a hydroxyethyl (meth)acrylate, and mixtures thereof; and- at least one scleroglucan gum.Composition according to Claim 1, in the form of an emulsion, preferably in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion.Composition according to either one of Claims 1 and 2, in which the UV-screening agent(s) are chosen from organic UV-screening agents such as water-soluble organic UV-screening agents, liposoluble organic UV-screening agents and insoluble organic UV-screening agents, inorganic UV-screening agents, and mixtures thereof, the UV-screening agent(s) preferably being chosen from organic UV-screening agents.Composition according to any one of Claims 1 to 3, in which the organic UV-screening agent(s) are chosen from liposoluble organic UV-screening agents, preferably chosen from dibenzoylmethane compounds, salicylic compounds, β,β-diphenylacrylate compounds, benzophenone compounds, phenyl benzotriazole compounds, triazine compounds and mixtures thereof, and more preferentially from homosalate, ethylhexyl salicylate, drometrizole trisiloxane, bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine, octocrylene, butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane, ethylhexyl triazone, n-hexyl 2-(4-diethylamino-2-hydroxybenzoyl)benzoate, diethylhexyl butamido triazone and mixtures thereof.Composition according to any one of Claims 1 to 4, comprising bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine.Composition according to any one of Claims 1 to 5, in which the semi-crystalline polymer(s) containing at least one alkyl acrylate chain are chosen from the lipophilic polymers comprising monomer units of formulae (A) and (B):in which:R1, independently of each other, are chosen from alkyl or alkenyl radicals;with at least 60% by weight of the groups R1being radicals chosen from stearyl and behenyl radicals, the weight percentage being relative to the sum of all the groups R1present in the polymer;the weight ratio of the sum of all the hydroxyethyl acrylate units to the sum of all the acrylate units bearing the group R1ranges from 1:30 to 1:1; andthe sum of the total of units A and B is at least 95% by weight relative to the total weight of the polymer; andthe polymer having a number-average molecular weight Mn ranging from 2000 to 9000 g / mol.Composition according to Claim 6, in which, in the lipophilic acrylic polymer, R1 consists of an alkyl radical, preferably of a C16-C22alkyl radical, and more preferentially of a behenyl or stearyl radical.Composition according to any one of Claim 6 and 7, in which, in the lipophilic acrylic polymer, at least 70% by weight of the groups R1 are behenyl or stearyl radicals, preferentially at least 80% by weight, more preferentially at least 90% by weight.Composition according to any one of Claims 6 to 8, in which, in the lipophilic acrylic polymer, all the groups R1 are stearyl or behenyl radicals.Composition according to any one of Claims 6 to 9, in which, in the lipophilic acrylic polymer, the weight ratio of the sum of all the hydroxyethyl acrylate units to the sum of all the acrylate units bearing the group R1 ranges from 1:15 to 1:1 and preferentially ranges from 1:10 to 1:4.Composition according to any one of Claims 6 to 10, in which the semi-crystalline polymer(s) have a number-average molecular weight Mn ranging from 5000 to 9000 g / mol.Composition according to any one of Claims 6 to 11, in which the semi-crystalline polymer(s) have a melting point ranging from 40°C to 70°C, and preferentially ranging from 45°C to 67°C.Composition according to any one of Claims 6 to 12, in which, in the lipophilic acrylic polymer, at least 60% by weight of the groups R1 are stearyl radicals, and said polymer has a melting point ranging from 40 to 60°C, and preferentially ranging from 45 to 55°C.Composition according to any one of Claims 6 to 12, in which, in the lipophilic acrylic polymer, at least 60% by weight of the groups R1 are behenyl radicals, and said polymer has a melting point ranging from 60°C to 70°C, and preferentially ranging from 63°C to 67°C.Composition according to one of Claims 1 to 14, comprising at least one emulsifier.Composition according to any one of Claims 1 to 15, comprising at least one or more non-ionic emulsifiers of alkyl polyglycoside type, preferably chosen from the compounds having the general formula below: R1O-(R2O)t-(G)vin which:- R1represents a linear or branched alkyl or alkenyl radical including 6 to 24 carbon atoms and notably 8 to 18 carbon atoms, or an alkylphenyl radical of which the linear or branched alkyl radical includes 6 to 24 carbon atoms and notably 8 to 18 carbon atoms;- R2represents an alkylene radical including 2 to 4 carbon atoms;- G represents a sugar unit including 5 to 6 carbon atoms;- t denotes a value ranging from 0 to 10 and preferably from 0 to 4;- v denotes a value ranging from 1 to 15 and preferably from 1 to 4.Composition according to any one of Claims 1 to 16, comprising:- at least one C12-C24fatty acid ester of a C2-C24polyol, preferably at least one C16-C18fatty acid ester of glycerol; and- at least one carboxylic or carboxylate anionic surfactant chosen from amino acids modified with at least one C8-C30, preferably C8-C24, hydrocarbon-based chain, and salts thereof.Composition according to Claim 17, in which the C12-C24fatty acid ester(s) of a C2-C24polyol are chosen from fatty acid esters of glycerol; they are preferably chosen from glyceryl laurate, glyceryl oleate, glyceryl stearate, glyceryl palmitate, and a mixture thereof.Composition according to any one of Claims 17 and 18, in which the carboxylic or carboxylate anionic surfactant(s) are chosen from the compounds having the following structure:Z represents a linear or branched C8-C22alkyl or alkenyl group;X is a hydrogen atom or a methyl radical;n is equal to 0 or to 1;Y is a hydrogen atom, a -(CH2)2C(O)OH group or a -(CH2)2C(O)O-M+group; andM is a hydrogen atom or a cation such as sodium, potassium, ammonium or triethanolamine.Composition according to any one of Claims 1 to 19, comprising at least one C12-C24saturated fatty alcohol, preferably chosen from cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, cetearyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, lauryl alcohol, tridecyl alcohol, pentadecyl alcohol, hexadecyl alcohol, arachidyl alcohol and behenyl alcohol, preferably behenyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol and cetearyl alcohol.Composition according to any one of Claims 1 to 20, comprising at least one wax, in particular at least one jojoba ester wax, preferably present in an amount ranging from 0.1% to 2% by weight, preferably from 0.2% to 0.8% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

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