Stable composition comprising hydrocarbon oil
Patent Information
- Authority / Receiving Office
- EP · EP
- Patent Type
- Applications
- Current Assignee / Owner
- LOREAL SA
- Filing Date
- 2024-05-14
- Publication Date
- 2026-04-22
AI Technical Summary
Cosmetic compositions containing gemini surfactants and lipophilic thickeners become unstable when cooled below 30°C, leading to phase separation and changes in appearance.
Incorporating hydrocarbon oil into the composition with a specific weight ratio to the lipophilic thickener, along with gemini surfactants and optional UV filters, stabilizes the mixture at room temperature by maintaining uniform dispersion of fatty phases in an O/W emulsion.
The composition remains stable with small, uniformly dispersed fatty phase droplets, preventing phase separation and providing effective UV protection.
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Abstract
Description
[0001] DESCRIPTION
[0002] TITLE OF INVENTION
[0003] STABLE COMPOSITION COMPRISING HYDROCARBON OIL
[0004] TECHNICAL FIELD
[0005] The present invention relates to a composition, preferably a cosmetic composition, and more preferably a skin cosmetic composition, which is stable.
[0006] BACKGROUND ART
[0007] WO 2019 / 96953 discloses a composition including a gemini surfactant having a specific chemical structure with at least two fatty amide groups, and a lipophilic thickener having specific monomeric units.
[0008] DISCLOSURE OF INVENTION
[0009] It has been discovered that, when the composition disclosed in WO 2019 / 96953 is prepared, in particular after cooling down the composition to below 30°C, the composition may become unstable.
[0010] An objective of the present invention is to provide a composition which includes at least one gemini surfactant and at least one lipophilic thickener, and can be stable below 30°C.
[0011] The above objective of the present invention can be achieved by a composition, preferably a cosmetic composition, and more preferably a skin cosmetic composition, comprising:
[0012] (a) at least one gemini surfactant;
[0013] (b) at least one lipophilic thickener; and
[0014] (c) at least one hydrocarbon oil.
[0015] The (a) gemini surfactant may be selected from the compounds represented by the following formula (III): wherein
[0016] Y’ independently denotes a carboxylic acid group or an alkaline salt of a carboxylic acid group such as a sodium salt of a carboxylic acid group, j 1 , k1 , j2 and k2 denote integers such that (j 1 , k1 , j 2, k2) = any of (2, 0, 2, 0), (2, 0, 0, 2), (0, 2, 2, 0) and (0, 2, 0, 2), and
[0017] 1 denotes an integer from 6 to 16, preferably from 8 to 14, and more preferably from 10 to 12.
[0018] The (a) gemini surfactant may be selected from the group consisting of sodium dilauramidoglutamide lysine, sodium dimyristoylglutamide lysine, and sodium distearoylglutamide lysine, and a mixture thereof.
[0019] The amount of the (a) amino acid surfactant(s) in the composition according to the present invention may range from 0.01% to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 5% by weight, and more preferably from 0.1% to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0020] The (b) lipophilic thickener may be selected from lipophilic organic thickeners, preferably lipophilic organic polymers, more preferably lipophilic organic semi-crystalline polymers, and even more preferably polymers of at least one ester of (meth)acrylic acid and C10-C30aliphatic alcohol.
[0021] The amount of the (b) lipophilic polymer(s) in the composition according to the present invention may range from 0.01% to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 5% by weight, and more preferably from 0.1% to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0022] The (c) hydrocarbon oil may be selected from volatile and non-volatile, aliphatic and saturated hydrocarbons, preferably volatile and non-volatile C8-C22alkanes, and more preferably volatile C8-C22alkanes.
[0023] The amount of the (c) hydrocarbon oil(s) in the composition according to the present invention may range from 1% to 20% by weight, preferably from 2% to 15% by weight, and more preferably from 3% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0024] The weight ratio of the amount of the (c) hydrocarbon oil / the amount of the (b) lipophilic polymer may be from 7 to 13, preferably from 8 to 12, and more preferably from 9 to 11.
[0025] The composition according to the present invention may further comprise (d) at least one UV filter, preferably selected from organic UV filters, and more preferably selected from the group consisting of butyl methoxydimenzoylmethane, bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine, ethylhexyl triazone, drometrizole trisiloxane, ethylhexyl salicylate, octocrylene, homosalate, and a mixture thereof.
[0026] The amount of the (d) UV filter(s) in the composition according to the present invention may range from 1% to 40% by weight, preferably from 5% to 35% by weight, and more preferably from 10% to 30% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0027] The composition according to the present invention may further comprise (e) water.
[0028] The amount of the (e) water in the composition according to the present invention may range from 20% to 70% by weight, preferably from 30% to 65% by weight, and more preferably from 40% to 60% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. The composition according to the present invention may be in the form of an O / W emulsion.
[0029] The present invention also relates to a cosmetic process for treating a keratin substance such as skin, comprising the step of applying the composition according to the present invention.
[0030] BEST MODE FOR CARRYING OUT THE INVENTION
[0031] After diligent research, the inventors have discovered that it is possible to provide a composition which includes at least one gemini surfactant and at least one lipophilic thickener, and can be stable below 30°C.
[0032] Thus, one aspect of the present invention is a composition comprising:
[0033] (a) at least one gemini surfactant;
[0034] (b) at least one lipophilic thickener; and
[0035] (c) at least one hydrocarbon oil.
[0036] The composition according to the present invention is stable below 30°C, and therefore, the composition can be stable at room temperature.
[0037] The composition according to the present invention is stable. The term “stable” here means that the aspect or appearance of the composition does not change, for example, as a result of heterogenisation or phase separation which can be visually recognized. It is preferable that the composition according to the present invention is stable over a long time of period.
[0038] If the composition according to the present invention includes (e) water, and is in the form of an O / W emulsion comprising a continuous aqueous phase and dispersed fatty phases, the particles of the fatty phases can be small such that they do not easily aggregate to cause phase separation. Thus, the composition according to the present invention in the form of an O / W emulsion can maintain uniform aspect or appearance, and therefore, is stable.
[0039] If the composition according to the present invention comprises (d) at least one UV filter, the composition is UV shielding or is capable of shielding UV rays. In addition, the composition according to the present invention can form a homogeneous or uniform film including the (d) UV filter(s) that can provide a homogeneous or uniform distribution of the (d) UV filter(s), which can provide good UV protection.
[0040] Hereinafter, the present invention will be explained in a more detailed manner.
[0041] [Composition]
[0042] (Gemini Surfactant)
[0043] The composition according to the present invention comprises (a) at least one gemini surfactant. A single type of gemini surfactant may be used, but two or more different types of gemini surfactant may be used in combination.
[0044] Gemini surfactants or dimeric surfactants are well known. For a detailed description of the various chemical structures and their physicochemical properties, reference may be made to the following publications: Milton J. Rosen, Gemini Surfactants, Properties of surfactant molecules with two hydrophilic groups and two hydrophobic groups, Cosmetics & Toiletries magazine, Vol. 113, December 1998, pp. 49-55; and
[0045] Milton J. Rosen, Recent Developments in Gemini Surfactants, Allured's Cosmetics & Toiletries magazine, July 2001, Vol. 116, No. 7, pp. 67-70.
[0046] The (a) gemini surfactant is anionic and comprises a plurality of hydrophobic moieties and a plurality of hydrophilic moieties.
[0047] The (a) gemini surfactant may comprise at least two fatty amide groups.
[0048] The (a) gemini surfactant may be represented by the following formula (I), and also the stereoisomers thereof: in which: a) R1denotes an alkyl radical having from 1 to 25 carbon atoms or a radical having the formula below:
[0049] -(CH2)k1-CH[-NH-CO-(CH2)1-CH3]-(CH2)j1-Y' b) Ra denotes an alkyl radical having from 1 to 25 carbon atoms or a radical having the formula below:
[0050] -(CH2)k2-CH[-NH-CO-(CH2)1-CH3]-(CH2)j2-Y' c) R2denotes a spacer constituted of a linear or branched alkylene chain having from 1 to 12 carbon atoms or of a radical of formula -CH(Y')-(CH2)n'-; with: n' representing an integer between 1 and 8, preferably between 3 and 5, and even more preferentially equal to 4;
[0051] Y' representing, independently of one another, a carboxylic acid group or an alkaline salt of a carboxylic acid group, such as a sodium salt of a carboxylic acid group; j 1, k1, j2 and k2 representing an integer such that (j 1 , k1 , j2, k2) = (2, 0, 2, 0), (2, 0, 0, 2), (0, 2, 2, 0) or (0, 2, 0, 2); and
[0052] 1 representing an integer from 6 to 16, preferably from 8 to 14, and more preferably from 10 to 12; and d) X and Y denote, independently of each other, the group -(C2H4O)a-(C3H6O)bZ, in which
[0053] Z denotes a hydrogen atom or the radical -CH2-COOM, -SO3M, -P(O)(OM)2, -C2H4- SO3M, -C3H6-SO3M or -CH2(CHOH)4CH2OH, where M and M' represent H or an alkali metal or alkaline-earth metal or ammonium or alkanolammonium ion, a ranges from 0 to 15, b ranges from 0 to 10, and the sum of a + b ranges from 1 to 25; and e) n ranges from 1 to 10.
[0054] According to a first embodiment of the present invention, the (a) gemini surfactant(s) may be chosen from the compounds of the following formula (II), and also the stereoisomers thereof: in which: a) R1and R3denote, independently of each other, an alkyl radical containing from 1 to 25 carbon atoms; b) R2denotes a spacer constituted of a linear or branched alkylene chain containing from 1 to 12 carbon atoms; and c) X and Y denote, independently of each other, a group -(C2H4O)a-(C3H6O)bZ, in which
[0055] Z denotes a hydrogen atom or the radical -CH2-COOM, -SO3M, -P(O)(OM)2, -C2H4- SO3M, -C3H6-SO3M or -CH2(CHOH)4CH2OH, where M and M' represent H or an alkali metal or alkaline-earth metal or ammonium or alkanolammonium ion, a ranges from 0 to 15, b ranges from 0 to 10, and the sum of a + b ranges from 1 to 25; and n ranges from 1 to 10.
[0056] According to one preferred embodiment, the (a) gemini surfactant(s) of formula (II) are such that each of the groups R1-CO- and R3-CO- comprises from 8 to 20 carbon atoms, and preferably denotes a coconut fatty acid residue (mainly comprising lauric acid and myristic acid).
[0057] According to another preferred embodiment, the (a) gemini surfactant(s) of formula (II) are such that, for each of the X and Y radicals, the sum of a and b has an average value ranging from 10 to 20 and is preferably equal to 15. A preferred group for Z is the group -SO3M, where M is preferably an alkali metal ion, such as a sodium ion.
[0058] In formula (II) as defined above, the spacer R2is advantageously constituted of a linear C1-C3alkylene chain, and preferably a (CH2CH2) ethylene chain.
[0059] Finally, n is advantageously equal to 1.
[0060] A surfactant of this type is in particular the one identified by the INCI name: Sodium dicocoyl ethylenediamine PEG- 15 sulfate, having the following structure: it being understood that PEG represents the group -CH2CH2O- and cocoyl represents the coconut fatty acid residue. This surfactant has a molecular structure very similar to that of ceramide-3.
[0061] Preferably, the gemini surfactant of formula (II) may be used as a mixture with other surfactants, and in particular as a mixture with (a) a glyceryl ester of a C6-C22fatty acid (preferably C14-C20such as a stearate), (b) a diester of a C6-C22fatty acid (preferably C14-C20such as a stearate) and of citric acid and of glycerol , and (c) a C10-C30fatty alcohol (preferably behenyl alcohol).
[0062] More preferentially, the gemini surfactant of formula (II) may represent from 10% to 20% by weight and advantageously 15% by weight; the glyceryl ester of a C6-C22fatty acid represents from 30% to 40% by weight, advantageously 35% by weight; the diester of a C6-C22fatty acid and of citric acid and of glycerol represents from 10% to 20% by weight, advantageously 15% by weight; and the C10-C30fatty alcohol represents from 30% to 40% by weight, advantageously 35% by weight, relative to the total weight of the mixture of surfactants containing the gemini surfactant.
[0063] As a variant, the gemini surfactant of formula (II) may be used as a mixture with an anionic surfactant, such as an ester of lauric acid, sodium lauryl lactate. In this case, the gemini surfactant preferably represents from 30 to 50% by weight, and the anionic surfactant represents from 30 to 50% by weight, relative to the total weight of the mixture.
[0064] The gemini surfactant may be used, for example, as a mixture with other surfactants in the form of the products sold by the company Sasol under the Ceralution® names, and in particular the following products:
[0065] Ceralution® H: Behenyl Alcohol, Glyceryl Stearate, Glyceryl Stearate Citrate and Sodium Dicocoylethylenediamine PEG- 15 Sulfate;
[0066] Ceralution® F: Sodium Lauroyl Lactylate and Sodium Dicocoylethylenediamine PEG- 15 Sulfate; and
[0067] Ceralution® C: Aqua, Capric / Caprylic triglyceride, Glycerin, Ceteareth-25, Sodium Dicocoylethylenediamine PEG- 15 Sulfate, Sodium Lauroyl Lactylate, Behenyl Alcohol, Glyceryl Stearate, Glyceryl Stearate Citrate, Gum Arabic, Xanthan Gum, Phenoxyethanol, Methylparaben, Ethylparaben, Butylparaben, Isobutylparaben (INCI names).
[0068] According to one particular embodiment of the present invention, the gemini surfactant(s) of formula (II) are in the form of a mixture of surfactants comprising from 3% to 50% by weight of gemini surfactants of formula (II), preferably from 10% to 50% by weight, and even more preferentially from 10% to 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the mixture.
[0069] According to a second embodiment of the present invention, the (a) gemini surfactant(s) may be chosen from the compounds of the following formula (III), and also the stereoisomers thereof: in which:
[0070] Y’ represent, independently of one another, a carboxylic acid group or an alkaline salt of a carboxylic acid group, such as a sodium salt of a carboxylic acid group; j1 , k1 , j2 and k2 represent an integer such that (j1 , k1 , j2, k2) = (2, 0, 2, 0), (2, 0, 0, 2), (0, 2, 2, 0) or (0, 2, 0, 2); and
[0071] 1 represents an integer from 6 to 16, preferably from 8 to 14, and more preferably from 10 to 12.
[0072] According to one particular embodiment of the present invention, in formula (III), 1 represents an integer ranging from 8 to 12, j1 = j2 = 0, and k1 = k2 = 2.
[0073] Preferably, in formula (III), Y' represents -COONa, j1 = j2 = 0, k1 = k2 = 2; and 1 = 10.
[0074] By way of examples of gemini surfactants of formula (III), mention may be made of sodium dilauramidoglutamide lysine, sodium dimyristoylglutamide lysine and sodium distearoylglutamide lysine. Sodium dilauramidoglutamide lysine is particularly preferred. Sodium dilauramidoglutamide lysine is in particular sold by the company Asahi Kasei Chemicals under the names Pellicer L-30 and Pellicer LB- 10.
[0075] The above amide compound represented by formula (III) can be prepared by, for example, reacting a long chain N-acyl acidic amino acid anhydride with a basic amino acid, such as lysine, in water and / or a mixed solvent of water and organic solvent(s), or in inert organic solvent(s) such as tetrahydrofuran, benzene, toluene, xylene tetrachloromethane, chloroform, acetone or the like, or without any solvent, at -5°C to 200°C, preferably 5°C to 100°C, and more preferably 0°C to 60°C.
[0076] The gemini surfactant(s) of formula (III) is(are) in particular described in application WO 2004 / 020394.
[0077] The amount of the (a) gemini surfactant(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 0.01% by weight or more, preferably 0.05% by weight or more, and more preferably 0.1% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0078] On the other hand, the amount of the (a) gemini surfactant(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 10% by weight or less, preferably 5% by weight or less, and more preferably 1% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0079] Thus, the amount of the (a) gemini surfactant(s) in the composition according to the present invention may range from 0.01% to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 5% by weight, and more preferably from 0.1% to 1% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0080] (Lipophilic Thickener)
[0081] The composition according to the present invention comprises (b) at least one lipophilic thickener. A single type of lipophilic thickener may be used, but two or more different types of lipophilic thickeners may be used in combination.
[0082] The (b) lipophilic thickener can thicken a fatty phase which comprises, at least, the (c) hydrocarbon oil. In other words, the (b) lipophilic thickener can increase the viscosity of the fatty phase.
[0083] The term “lipophilic” here means a substance which is soluble in oil(s) at a concentration of at least 1% by weight relative to the total weight of the oil(s) at room temperature (25°C) and atmospheric pressure (105Pa). Therefore, the (b) lipophilic thickener can be present in the fatty phase.
[0084] The (b) lipophilic thickener may be inorganic or organic.
[0085] The lipophilic organic thickener may preferably be selected from lipophilic organic polymers.
[0086] It is preferable that the (b) lipophilic thickener be selected from semi-crystalline or crystalline polymers.
[0087] The semi-crystalline or crystalline polymer is preferably a semi-crystalline polymer. The term “semi-crystalline polymer” means polymers comprising a crystallizable portion, a crystallizable pendent and / or end chain or a crystallizable block in the backbone and / or at the ends, and an amorphous portion in the backbone, and having a first-order reversible temperature of change of phase, in particular of melting (solid-liquid transition). When the crystallizable portion is in the form of a crystallizable block of the polymer backbone, the amorphous portion of the polymer is in the form of an amorphous block; the semi-crystalline polymer is, in this case, a block copolymer, for example of the diblock, triblock or multiblock type, comprising at least one crystallizable block and at least one amorphous block. The term “block” generally means at least five identical repeating units. The crystallizable block(s) are then of different chemical nature from the amorphous block(s).
[0088] The semi-crystalline polymer may have a melting point of greater than or equal to 30°C (especially ranging from 30°C to 80°C), preferably ranging from 30°C to 60°C,and in particular ranging from 40°C to 50°C. This melting point is a first-order temperature of change of state.
[0089] This melting point may be measured by any known method and in particular using a differential scanning calorimeter (DSC), for example the calorimeter sold under the name DSC Q2000 by the company TA Instruments.
[0090] Advantageously, the semi-crystalline polymer(s) may have a number-average molecular mass of greater than or equal to 1 ,000.
[0091] Advantageously, the semi-crystalline polymer(s) may have a number-average molecular mass Mn ranging from 2,000 to 800,000, preferably from 3,000 to 500,000, better still from 4,000 to 150,000 and especially less than 100,000 and better still from 4,000 to 99,000. Preferably, they have a number-average molecular mass of greater than 5,600, for example ranging from 5,700 to 99,000.
[0092] For the purposes of the present invention, the expression “crystallizable chain or block” means a chain or block which, if it were obtained alone, would change from the amorphous state to the crystalline state reversibly, depending on whether the temperature is above or below the melting point. For the purposes of the present invention, a “chain” is a group of atoms, which are pendent or lateral relative to the polymer backbone. A “block” is a group of atoms belonging to the backbone, this group constituting one of the repeating units of the polymer. Advantageously, the “pendent crystallizable chain” may be a chain containing at least 6 carbon atoms.
[0093] Preferably, the crystallizable block(s) or chain(s) of the semi-crystalline polymers represent at least 30% of the total weight of each polymer and better still at least 40%. The semi-crystalline polymers containing crystallizable blocks may be block or multiblock polymers. They may be obtained via polymerization of a monomer containing reactive double bonds (or ethylenic bonds) or via polycondensation. When they are polymers containing crystallizable side chains, these side chains are advantageously in random or statistical form.
[0094] Preferably, the semi-crystalline polymers that may be used in the composition according to the present invention are of synthetic origin. Moreover, they do not comprise a polysaccharide backbone. In general, the crystallizable units (chains or blocks) of the semi-crystalline polymers can originate from monomer(s) containing crystallizable block(s) or chain(s), used for the manufacture of the semi-crystalline polymers.
[0095] According to the present invention, the semi-crystalline polymer may be chosen from block copolymers comprising at least one crystallizable block and at least one amorphous block, and homopolymers and copolymers bearing at least one crystallizable side chain per repeating unit, and mixtures thereof.
[0096] The semi-crystalline polymers that may be used in the present invention are in particular: block copolymers of polyolefins with controlled crystallization, especially those whose monomers are described in EP-A-0 951 897, polycondensates, especially of aliphatic or aromatic polyester type or of aliphatic / aromatic copolyester type, homopolymers or copolymers bearing at least one crystallizable side chain and homopolymers or copolymers bearing at least one crystallizable block in the backbone, for instance those described in document US-A-5 156 911, homopolymers or copolymers bearing at least one crystallizable side chain, in particular containing fluoro group(s), as described in document WO-A-Ol / 19333, and mixtures thereof.
[0097] In the last two cases, the crystallizable side chain(s) or block(s) are hydrophobic.
[0098] (i) Semi-crystalline polymers containing crystallizable side chains Mention may be made in particular of those defined in documents US-A-5 156 911 and WO-A- 01 / 19333. They are homopolymers or copolymers comprising from 50% to 100% by weight of units resulting from the polymerization of one or more monomers bearing a crystallizable hydrophobic side chain.
[0099] These homopolymers or copolymers are of any nature, provided that they meet the conditions mentioned previously.
[0100] They can result: from the polymerization, especially the free-radical polymerization, of one or more monomers containing reactive or ethylenic double bond(s) with respect to a polymerization, namely a vinyl, (meth)acrylic or allylic group, or from the polycondensation of one or more monomers bearing co-reactive groups (carboxylic acid, sulfonic acid, alcohol, amine or isocyanate), such as, for example, polyesters, polyurethanes, polyethers, polyureas or polyamides.
[0101] In general, these polymers are chosen especially from homopolymers and copolymers resulting from the polymerization of at least one monomer containing crystallizable chain(s) that may be represented by following formula: with M representing an atom of the polymer backbone, S representing a spacer and C representing a crystallizable group.
[0102] The crystallizable chains “-S-C” may be aliphatic or aromatic, and optionally fluorinated or perfluorinated. “S” especially represents the group (CH2)nor (CH2CH2O)nor (CH2O), which may be linear or branched or cyclic, with n being an integer ranging from 0 to 22. Preferably, “S” is a linear group. Preferably, “S” and “C” are different.
[0103] When the crystallizable chains “-S-C” are hydrocarbon-based aliphatic chains, they comprise hydrocarbon-based alkyl chains containing at least 11 carbon atoms and not more than 40 carbon atoms and better still not more than 24 carbon atoms. They are especially aliphatic chains or alkyl chains containing at least 12 carbon atoms, and they are preferably C14-C24alkyl chains. When they are fluoroalkyl or perfluoroalkyl chains, they contain at least six fluorinated carbon atoms and especially at least 11 carbon atoms, at least six of which carbon atoms are fluorinated.
[0104] As examples of semi-crystalline polymers or copolymers bearing crystallizable chain(s), mention may be made of those resulting from the polymerization of one or more of the following monomers: (meth)acrylates of saturated alkyl with the alkyl group being C14-C24, perfluoroalkyl (meth)acrylates with a C11-C15perfluoroalkyl group, N-alkyl(meth)acrylamides with the alkyl group being C14to C24with or without a fluorine atom, vinyl esters containing alkyl or perfluoro(alkyl) chains with the alkyl group being C14to C24(with at least 6 fluorine atoms per perfluoroalkyl chain), vinyl ethers containing alkyl or perfluoro(alkyl) chains with the alkyl group being C14to C24and at least 6 fluorine atoms per perfluoroalkyl chain, C14to C24alpha-olefins such as, for example, octadecene, para-alkylstyrenes with an alkyl group containing from 12 to 24 carbon atoms, and mixtures thereof.
[0105] When the polymers result from a polycondensation, the hydrocarbon-based and / or fluorinated crystallizable chains as defined above are borne by a monomer that may be a diacid, a diol, a diamine or a diisocyanate.
[0106] When the polymers that are the subject of the present invention are copolymers, they additionally contain from 0 to 50% of group Y or Z resulting from the copolymerization: α) of Y which is a polar or non-polar monomer or a mixture of the two:
[0107] When Y is a polar monomer, it is either a monomer bearing polyoxyalkylenated groups (especially oxyethylenated and / or oxypropylenated groups), a hydroxyalkyl (meth)acrylate, for instance hydroxyethyl acrylate, (meth)acrylamide, an N-alkyl(meth)acrylamide, anN,N- dialkyl(meth)acrylamide such as, for example, N,N-diisopropylacrylamide or N-vinylpyrrolidone (NVP), N-vinylcaprolactam, a monomer bearing at least one carboxylic acid group, for instance (meth)acrylic acid, crotonic acid, itaconic acid, maleic acid or fumaric acid, or bearing a carboxylic acid anhydride group, for instance maleic anhydride, and mixtures thereof.
[0108] When Y is a non-polar monomer, it may be an ester of the linear, branched or cyclic alkyl (meth)acrylate type, a vinyl ester, an alkyl vinyl ether, an α-olefin, styrene or styrene substituted with a C1to C10alkyl group, for instance α-methylstyrene.
[0109] For the purposes of the present invention, the term “alkyl” means a saturated group especially of C8to C24, except where otherwise mentioned, and better still of C14to C24. β) of Z which is a polar monomer or a mixture of polar monomers. In this case, Z has the same definition as the “polar Y” defined above.
[0110] Preferably, the semi-crystalline polymers containing a crystallizable side chain are alkyl (meth)acrylate or alkyl(meth)acrylamide homopolymers with an alkyl group as defined above, and especially of C14-C24, copolymers of these monomers with a hydrophilic monomer preferably of different nature from (meth)acrylic acid, for instance N-vinylpyrrolidone or hydroxyethyl (meth)acrylate, and mixtures thereof.
[0111] (ii) Polymers bearing in the backbone at least one crystallizable block
[0112] These polymers are especially block copolymers consisting of at least two blocks of different chemical nature, one of which is crystallisable:
[0113] The block polymers defined in patent US-A-5 156 911; and
[0114] The block copolymers of olefin or of cycloolefin containing a crystallizable chain, for instance those derived from the block polymerization of: cyclobutene, cyclohexene, cyclooctene, norbomene (i.e. bicyclo(2,2,l)-2-heptene), 5- methylnorbomene, 5-ethylnorbomene, 5,6-dimethylnorbomene, 5,5,6-trimethylnorbomene, 5- ethylidenenorbomene, 5-phenylnorbomene, 5-benzylnorbomene, 5-vinylnorbomene, 1 ,4,5,8- dimethano-l,2,3,4,4a,5,8a-tetrahydronaphthalene, dicyclopenta-diene, or mixtures thereof, with ethylene, propylene, 1 -butene, 3 -methyl- 1 -butene, 1 -hexene, 4-methyl-l -pentene, 1 -octene, 1 -decene or 1 -eicosene, or mixtures thereof, in particular copoly(ethylene / norbomene) blocks and (ethylene / propylene / ethylidene-norbomene) block terpolymers. Those resulting from the block copolymerization of at least two C2-C16, better still C2-C12and even better still C4-C12α-olefins such as those mentioned above and in particular block bipolymers of ethylene and of 1 -octene may also be used.
[0115] The copolymers may be copolymers containing at least one crystallizable block, the copolymer residue being amorphous (at room temperature). These copolymers may also contain two crystallizable blocks of different chemical nature. The preferred copolymers are those that simultaneously contain at room temperature a crystallizable block and an amorphous block that are both hydrophobic and lipophilic, sequentially distributed; mention may be made, for example, of polymers containing one of the crystallizable blocks and one of the amorphous blocks below:
[0116] Block that is crystallizable by nature: a) of polyester type, for instance poly(alkylene terephthalate), b) of polyolefin type, for instance polyethylenes or polypropylenes; and Amorphous and lipophilic block, for instance amorphous polyolefins or copoly(olefin)s such as poly(isobutylene), hydrogenated polybutadiene or hydrogenated poly(isoprene).
[0117] As examples of such copolymers containing a crystallizable block and a separate amorphous block, mention may be made of: α) poly(ε-caprolactone)-b-poly(butadiene) block copolymers, preferably used hydrogenated, such as those described in the article “Melting behaviour of poly(ε-caprolactone)-block-polybutadiene copolymers” from S. Nojima, Macromolecules, 32, 3727-3734 (1999), β) the hydrogenated block or multiblock poly(butylene terephthalate)-b-poly(isoprene) block copolymers cited in the article “Study of morphological and mechanical properties of PP / PBT” by B. Boutevin et al., Polymer Bulletin, 34, 117-123 (1995), γ) the poly(ethylene)-b-copoly(ethylene / propylene) block copolymers cited in the articles “Morphology of semicrystalline block copolymers of ethylene-(ethylene-alt-propylene)” by P. Rangarajan et al., Macromolecules, 26, 4640-4645 (1993) and “Polymer aggregates with crystalline cores: the system poly(ethylene)poly(ethylene-propylene)” by P. Richter et al., Macromolecules, 30, 1053-1068 (1997). δ) the poly(ethylene)-b-poly(ethylethylene) block copolymers mentioned in the general article “Crystallization in block copolymers” by I.W. Hamley, Advances in Polymer Science, vol. 148, 113-137 (1999). The semicrystalline polymers which may be used for the present invention may or may not be partially crosslinked, provided that the degree of crosslinking does not interfere with their dissolution or dispersion in the liquid fatty phase optionally present in the composition by heating above their melting point. It may then be a case of chemical crosslinking, by reaction with a multifunctional monomer during the polymerization. It may also be a case of physical crosslinking, which may then be due either to the establishment of bonds of hydrogen or dipolar type between groups borne by the polymer, for instance dipolar interactions between carboxylate ionomers, these interactions being in small amount and borne by the polymer backbone; or to a phase separation between the crystallizable blocks and the amorphous blocks, bome by the polymer.
[0118] Preferably, the semi-crystalline polymers which may be used for the present invention are not crosslinked.
[0119] According to one particular embodiment of the present invention, the polymer is chosen from copolymers resulting from the polymerization of at least one monomer containing a crystallizable chain chosen from saturated C14to C24alkyl (meth)acrylates, C11to C15perfluoroalkyl (meth)acrylates, C14to C24N-alkyl(meth)-acrylamides with or without a fluorine atom, vinyl esters containing C14to C24alkyl or perfluoroalkyl chains, vinyl ethers containing C14to C24alkyl or perfluoroalkyl chains, C14to C24alpha-olefins, para-alkylstyrenes with an alkyl group containing from 12 to 24 carbon atoms, with at least one optionally fluorinated C1to C10monocarboxylic acid ester or amide, which may be represented by the following formula: in which R1is H or CH3, R represents an optionally fluorinated C1-C10alkyl group and X represents O, NH or NR2in which R2represents an optionally fluorinated C1-C10alkyl group.
[0120] According to one more particular embodiment of the present invention, the polymer is derived from a monomer containing a crystallizable chain chosen from saturated C14to C22alkyl (meth)acrylates and even more particularly poly(stearyl acrylate) or poly(behenyl acrylate).
[0121] It is preferable that the (b) lipophilic thickener be a polymer of monomers comprising at least one monomer represented by the following formula: H2C=CR1-CO-X-R2wherein R1denotes a hydrogen atom or a methyl group, R2denotes a linear or branched C10-C30alkyl group which may be substituted with at least one halogen atom, and
[0122] X denotes a divalent group selected from -O- or NR3- in which R3represents a hydrogen atom or a linear or branched C1-C10alkyl group which may be substituted with at least one halogen atom.
[0123] The C10-C30alkyl group may be a stearyl group and behenyl group.
[0124] It is more preferable that the (b) lipophilic thickener be a polymer of at least one ester of (meth)acrylic acid and C10-C30aliphatic alcohol.
[0125] As particular examples of structuring semi-crystalline polymers that may be used in the composition according to the present invention, mention may be made of polymers having the INCI name "Poly C10-C30alkyl acrylate", for instance the Intelimer® products from the company Evonik, for instance the product TEGO® SP 13-1, which is a polystearyl acrylate and has a melting point of 48°C, or the product TEGO® SP 13-6, which is a behenyl polymer.
[0126] The semi-crystalline polymers may especially be: those described in Examples 3, 4, 5, 7, 9 and 13 of patent US-A-5 156 911 containing a -COOH group, resulting from the copolymerization of acrylic acid and of C5to C16alkyl (meth)acrylate and more particularly of the copolymerization: of acrylic acid, of hexadecyl acrylate and of isodecyl acrylate in a 1 / 16 / 3 weight ratio, of acrylic acid and of pentadecyl acrylate in a 1 / 19 weight ratio, of acrylic acid, of hexadecyl acrylate and of ethyl acrylate in a 2.5 / 76.5 / 20 weight ratio, of acrylic acid, of hexadecyl acrylate and of methyl acrylate in a 5 / 85 / 10 weight ratio, of acrylic acid and of octadecyl methacrylate in a 2.5 / 97.5 weight ratio, of hexadecyl acrylate, of polyethylene glycol methacrylate monomethyl ether containing 8 ethylene glycol units, and of acrylic acid in an 8.5 / 1 / 0.5 weight ratio.
[0127] It is also possible to use the structure “O” from National Starch, as described in document US-A-5 736 125, with a melting point of 44°C, and also semi-crystalline polymers with crystallizable pendent chains comprising fluoro groups, as described in Examples 1 , 4, 6, 7 and 8 of document WO-A-Ol / 19333.
[0128] It is also possible to use the semi-crystalline polymers obtained by copolymerization of stearyl acrylate and of acrylic acid or NVP as described in document US-A-5 519 063 or EP-A-550 745, with melting points of 40°C and 38°C, respectively.
[0129] It is also possible to use the semi-crystalline polymers obtained by copolymerization of behenyl acrylate and of acrylic acid or NVP, as described in documents US-A-5 519 063 and EP-A-550 745, with melting points of 60°C and 58°C, respectively.
[0130] Preferably, the semi-crystalline polymers do not comprise any carboxylic groups.
[0131] Finally, the semi-crystalline polymers according to the present invention may also be chosen from waxy polymers obtained by metallocene catalysis, such as those described in patent application US 2007 / 0 031 361.
[0132] These polymers are homopolymers or copolymers of ethylene and / or propylene prepared via metallocene catalysis, i.e. by polymerization at low pressure and in the presence of a metallocene catalyst.
[0133] The weight-average molecular mass (Mw) of the waxes obtained via metallocene catalysis described in the above document is less than or equal to 25,000 g / mol and ranges, for example, from 2,000 to 22,000 g / mol and better still from 4,000 to 20,000 g / mol.
[0134] The number-average molecular mass (Mn) of the waxes obtained via metallocene catalysis described in the above document is preferably less than or equal to 15,000 g / mol and ranges, for example, from 1,000 to 12,000 g / mol and better still from 2,000 to 10,000 g / mol.
[0135] The polydispersity index I of the polymer is equal to the ratio of the weight-average molecular mass Mw to the number-average molecular mass Mn. Preferably, the polydispersity index of the waxy polymers is between 1.5 and 10, more preferably between 1.5 and 5, even more preferably between 1.5 and 3 and better still between 2 and 2.5.
[0136] The waxy homopolymers and copolymers may be obtained in a known manner from ethylene and / or propylene monomers, for example via metallocene catalysis according to the process described in document EP 571 882.
[0137] The homopolymers and copolymers of ethylene and / or propylene prepared via metallocene catalysis may be unmodified or “polar”-modified (polar-modified waxes, i.e. waxes modified such that they have the properties of a polar wax). The polar-modified waxy homopolymers and copolymers may be prepared in a known manner from unmodified waxy homopolymers and copolymers such as those described previously by oxidation with gases containing oxygen, such as air, or by grafting with polar monomers such as maleic acid or acrylic acid or alternatively derivatives of these acids. These two routes enabling polar modification of the polyolefins obtained via metallocene catalysis are described, respectively, in documents EP 890 583 and US 5 998 547, for example, the content of these two documents being incorporated herein by reference.
[0138] According to the present invention, the polar-modified homopolymers and copolymers of ethylene and / or propylene prepared via metallocene catalysis that are particularly preferred are polymers modified such that they have hydrophilic properties. Examples that may be mentioned include ethylene and / or propylene homopolymers or copolymers modified by the presence of hydrophilic groups such as maleic anhydride, acrylate, methacrylate, polyvinylpyrrolidone (PVP), etc.
[0139] Waxy ethylene and / or propylene homopolymers or copolymers modified by the presence of hydrophilic groups such as maleic anhydride or acrylate are particularly preferred.
[0140] Examples that may be mentioned include: polypropylene waxes modified with maleic anhydride (PPMA) sold by the company Clariant, or polypropylene-ethylene-maleic anhydride copolymers, such as those sold by the company Clariant under the name LicoCare, for instance LicoCare PP207 LP3349, LicoCare CM401 LP3345, LicoCare CA301 LP3346 and LicoCare CA302 LP3347, or alternatively the unmodified polyethylene waxes sold by the company Clariant, such as the product LicoCare PE 102 LP3329.
[0141] It is preferable that the (b) lipophilic thickener be selected from lipophilic organic thickeners, more preferably lipophilic organic polymers, more preferably lipophilic organic semi-crystalline polymers, and even more preferably polymers of at least one ester of (meth)acrylic acid and C10- C30aliphatic alcohol.
[0142] The amount of the (b) lipophilic thickener(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 0.01% by weight or more, preferably 0.05% by weight or more, and more preferably 0.1% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0143] On the other hand, the amount of the (b) lipophilic thickener(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 10% by weight or less, preferably 5% by weight or less, and more preferably 2% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0144] The amount of the (b) lipophilic thickener(s) in the composition according to the present invention may range from 0.01% to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 5% by weight, more preferably from 0.1% to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0145] (Hydrocarbon Oil)
[0146] The composition according to the present invention comprises (c) at least one hydrocarbon oil. A single type of hydrocarbon oil may be used, but two or more different types of hydrocarbon oils may be used in combination.
[0147] The term “oil” used herein means a water-immiscible non-aqueous compound that is liquid at room temperature (25°C) and at atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg).
[0148] The term “hydrocarbon” here means a compound formed by carbon and hydrogen atoms, and does not comprise any heteroatoms such as oxygen and nitrogen atoms.
[0149] The (c) hydrocarbon oil can form at least one fatty phase of the composition according to the present invention.
[0150] If the composition according to the present invention is in the form of an O / W emulsion, the (c) hydrocarbon oil in the composition according to the present invention can form dispersed fatty phases in the O / W emulsion.
[0151] The (c) hydrocarbon oil may be from plant, mineral or synthetic origin.
[0152] Preferably, the (c) hydrocarbon oil is an apolar oil. The term “apolar oil” used herein means an oil whose solubility parameter at 25°C, δa, is equal to 0 (J / cm3)1 / 2. The definition and calculation of the solubility parameters in the Hansen three-dimensional solubility space are described in the article by C.M. Hansen: “The three dimensional solubility parameters”, J. Paint Technol. 39, 105 (1967).
[0153] The (c) hydrocarbon oil may be selected from aliphatic hydrocarbon oils, alicyclic hydrocarbon oils and aromatic hydrocarbon oils, preferably aliphatic hydrocarbon oils, and more preferably aliphatic and saturated hydrocarbon oils.
[0154] The (c) hydrocarbon oil may be volatile or non-volatile. It is preferable that the (c) hydrocarbon oil be volatile. In other words, it is preferable that the (c) hydrocarbon oil be a volatile hydrocarbon oil.
[0155] For the purposes of the present invention, the term “volatile” oil means an oil that is capable of evaporating on contact with keratin materials in less than one hour, at room temperature (25°C) and atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg). The volatile oil may be a liquid at room temperature especially having a non-zero vapour pressure, at room temperature and atmospheric pressure, in particular having a vapour pressure ranging from 0.13 Pa to 40,000 Pa (10-3to 300 mmHg), preferably ranging from 1.3 Pa to 13,000 Pa (0.01 to 100 mmHg) and preferentially ranging from 1.3 Pa to 1 ,300 Pa (0.1 to 10 mmHg).
[0156] According to one preferred embodiment, the volatile hydrocarbon oil has a flash point of greater than 65°C, and better still greater than 80°C.
[0157] The (c) hydrocarbon oil may be chosen from branched C8-C22hydrocarbons, preferably branched C9-C21hydrocarbons, and more preferably branched C10-C20alkanes (also known as isoparaffins). It is even more preferable that the (c) hydrocarbon oil be selected from the group consisting of isodecane, isododecane (also called 2,2,4,4,6-pentamethylheptane), hydrogenated famesene (hemisqualane), isohexadecane, and a mixture thereof.
[0158] On the other hand, the (c) hydrocarbon oil may also be chosen from linear C8-C22hydrocarbons, preferably linear C9-C21hydrocarbons, and more preferably linear C10-C20alkanes. It is even more preferable that the (c) hydrocarbon oil be selected from the group consisting of n-decane, n- undecane, n-dodecane, n-tridecane, n-tetradecane, n-pentadecane and n-hexadecane, n- heptadecane, n-octadecane, n-nonadecane, and a mixture thereof.
[0159] As the (c) hydrocarbon oil, one or more commercial products may be used. For example, as the (c) hydrocarbon oil, mention may be made of C13-16 isoalkane, isohexadecane, C15-19 alkane, and a mixture thereof.
[0160] In one embodiment, the (c) hydrocarbon oil may be chosen from mineral oil, liquid paraffin or derivatives thereof, squalane or squalene, isoeicosane, naphthalene oil, polybutylenes such as Indopol H-l 00 (molar mass or MW = 965 g / mol), Indopol H-300 (MW = 1,340 g / mol) and Indopol H-l 500 (MW = 2,160 g / mol) sold or manufactured by the company Amoco, polyisobutenes, hydrogenated polyisobutylenes such as Parleam® sold by the company Nippon Oil Fats, Panalane H-300 E sold or manufactured by the company Amoco (MW = 1340 g / mol), Viseal 20000 sold or manufactured by the company Synteal (MW = 6,000 g / mol) and Rewopal PIB 1000 sold or manufactured by the company Witco (MW = 1,000 g / mol), or alternatively Parleam Lite sold by NOF Corporation, decene / butene copolymers, polybutene / polyisobutene copolymers, especially Indopol L- 14, polydecenes and hydrogenated polydecenes such as: Puresyn 10 (MW = 723 g / mol) and Puresyn 150 (MW = 9,200 g / mol) sold or manufactured by the company Mobil Chemicals, or alternatively Puresyn 6 sold by ExxonMobil Chemical), and mixtures thereof.
[0161] It is preferable that the (c) hydrocarbon oil be selected from volatile and non-volatile, aliphatic and saturated hydrocarbons, preferably volatile and non-volatile C8-C22alkanes, and more preferably volatile C8-C22alkanes.
[0162] The amount of the (c) hydrocarbon oil(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 1% by weight or more, preferably 2% by weight or more, and more preferably 3% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0163] On the other hand, the amount of the (c) hydrocarbon oil(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 20% by weight or less, preferably 15% by weight or less, and more preferably 10% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0164] The amount of the (c) hydrocarbon oil(s) in the composition according to the present invention may range from 1% to 20% by weight, preferably from 2% to 15% by weight, more preferably from 3% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0165] The weight ratio of the amount of the (c) hydrocarbon oil / the amount of the (b) lipophilic polymer may be 7 or more, preferably 8 or more, and more preferably 9 or more.
[0166] The weight ratio of the amount of the (c) hydrocarbon oil / the amount of the (b) lipophilic polymer may be 13 or less, preferably 12 or less, and more preferably 11 or less.
[0167] The weight ratio of the amount of the (c) hydrocarbon oil / the amount of the (b) lipophilic polymer may be from 7 to 13, preferably from 8 to 12, and more preferably from 9 to 11.
[0168] (UV Filter)
[0169] The composition according to the present invention may comprise (d) at least one UV filter. A single type of (d) UV filter or a combination of different types of (d) UV filters may be used. There is no limitation to the type of the (d) UV filter. The (d) UV filter can be selected from inorganic UV filters, organic UV filters, and mixtures thereof. It is preferable that the (d) UV filter be selected from organic UV filters.
[0170] The amount of the (d) UV filter(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 1% by weight or more, preferably 5% by weight or more, and more preferably 10% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0171] On the other hand, the amount of the (d) UV filter(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 40% by weight or less, preferably 35% by weight or less, and more preferably 30% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0172] The amount of the (d) UV filter(s) in the composition according to the present invention may range from 1% to 40% by weight, preferably from 5% to 35% by weight, and more preferably from 10% to 30% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0173] (Inorganic UV Filter)
[0174] The (d) UV filter may be selected from inorganic UV filters. If two or more inorganic UV filters are used, they may be the same or different.
[0175] The inorganic UV filter used for the present invention may be active in the UV-A and / or UV-B region. The inorganic UV filter may be hydrophilic and / or lipophilic. The inorganic UV filter is preferably insoluble in solvents such as water and ethanol commonly used in cosmetics.
[0176] It is preferable that the inorganic UV filter be in the form of a fine particle such that the mean (primary) particle diameter thereof ranges from 1 nm to 50 μm, preferably 5 nm to 500 nm, and more preferably 10 nm to 200 nm. The mean (primary) particle size or mean (primary) particle diameter here is an arithmetic mean diameter.
[0177] The inorganic UV filter can be selected from the group consisting of metal oxides which may or may not be coated, and mixtures thereof.
[0178] Preferably, the inorganic UV filter is selected from pigments (mean size of the primary particles: generally from 5 nm to 50 nm, preferably from 10 nm to 50 nm) formed of metal oxides, such as, for example, pigments formed of titanium oxide (amorphous or crystalline in the rutile and / or anatase form), iron oxide, zinc oxide, zirconium oxide, or cerium oxide, which are all UV photoprotective agents that are well known per se. Preferably, the inorganic UV filter is selected from titanium oxide, zinc oxide, and more preferably titanium oxide.
[0179] The inorganic UV filter may or may not be coated. The inorganic UV filter may have at least one coating. The coating may comprise at least one compound selected from the group consisting of alumina, silica, aluminum hydroxide, silicones, silanes, fatty acids or salts thereof (such as sodium, potassium, zinc, iron, or aluminum salts), fatty alcohols, lecithin, amino acids, polysaccharides, proteins, alkanolamines, waxes such as beeswax, (meth)acrylic polymers, organic UV filters, and (per)fluoro compounds.
[0180] It is preferable for the coating to include at least one organic UV filter. As the organic UV filter in the coating, a dibenzoylmethane derivative such as butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane (Avobenzone) and 2,2'-Methylenebis[6-(2H-Benzotriazol-2-yl)-4-(l,l,3,3-Tetramethyl-Butyl) Phenol] (Methylene Bis-Benzotriazolyl Tetramethylbutylphenol) marketed as “TINOSORB M” by BASF is preferable.
[0181] In a known manner, the silicones in the coating(s) may be organosilicon polymers or oligomers comprising a linear or cyclic and branched or cross-linked structure, of variable molecular weight, obtained by polymerization and / or polycondensation of suitable functional silanes and essentially composed of repeated main units in which the silicon atoms are connected to one another via oxygen atoms (siloxane bond), optionally substituted hydrocarbon radicals being connected directly to said silicon atoms via a carbon atom.
[0182] The term “silicones” also encompasses silanes necessary for their preparation, in particular alkylsilanes.
[0183] The silicones used for the coating(s) are preferably selected from the group consisting of alkylsilanes, polydialkylsiloxanes, and polyalkylhydrosiloxanes. More preferably still, the silicones are selected from the group consisting of octyltrimethylsilane, polydimethylsiloxanes, and polymethylhydrosiloxanes.
[0184] Of course, the inorganic UV filters made of metal oxides may, before their treatment with silicones, have been treated with other surfacing agents, in particular with cerium oxide, alumina, silica, aluminum compounds, silicon compounds, or their mixtures.
[0185] The coated inorganic UV filter may have been prepared by subjecting the inorganic UV filter to one or more surface treatments of a chemical, electronic, mechanochemical, and / or mechanical nature with any of the compounds as described above, as well as polyethylenes, metal alkoxides (titanium or aluminum alkoxides), metal oxides, sodium hexametaphosphate, and those shown, for example, in Cosmetics & Toiletries, February 1990, Vol. 105, pp. 53-64.
[0186] The coated inorganic UV filters may be titanium oxides coated with: silica, such as the product “Sunveil” from Ikeda, and “Sunsil TIN 50” from Sunjin Chemical; silica and with iron oxide, such as the product “Sunveil F” from Ikeda; silica and with alumina, such as the products “Microtitanium Dioxide MT 500 SA” from Tayca, “Tioveil” from Tioxide, and “Mirasun TiW 60” from Rhodia; alumina, such as the products “Tipaque TTO-55 (B)” and “Tipaque TTO-55 (A)” from Ishihara, and “UVT 14 / 4” from Kemira; alumina and with aluminum stearate, such as the product “Microtitanium Dioxide MT 100 T, MT 100 TX, MT 100 Z or MT-01” from Tayca, the products “Solaveil CT-10 W” and “Solaveil CT 100” from Uniquema, and the product “Eusolex T-AVO” from Merck; alumina and with aluminum laurate, such as the product “Microtitanium Dioxide MT 100 S” from Tayca; iron oxide and with iron stearate, such as the product “Microtitanium Dioxide MT 100 F” from Tayca; zinc oxide and with zinc stearate, such as the product “BR351” from Tayca; silica and with alumina and treated with a silicone, such as the products “Microtitanium Dioxide MT 600 SAS”, “Microtitanium Dioxide MT 500 SAS”, and “Microtitanium Dioxide MT 100 SAS” from Tayca; silica, with alumina and with aluminum stearate and treated with a silicone, such as the product “STT-30-DS” from Titan Kogyo; silica and treated with a silicone, such as the product “UV-Titan X 195” from Kemira; alumina and treated with a silicone, such as the products “Tipaque TTO-55 (S)” from Ishihara or “UV Titan M 262” from Kemira; triethanolamine, such as the product “STT-65-S” from Titan Kogyo; stearic acid, such as the product “Tipaque TTO-55 (C)” from Ishihara; or sodium hexametaphosphate, such as the product “Microtitanium Dioxide MT 150 W” from Tayca.
[0187] Other titanium oxide pigments treated with a silicone are preferably TiO2treated with octyltrimethylsilane and for which the mean size of the individual particles is from 25 and 40 nm, such as that marketed under the trademark “T 805” by Degussa Silices, TiO2treated with a poly dimethylsiloxane and for which the mean size of the individual particles is 21 nm, such as that marketed under the trademark “70250 Cardre UF TiO2Si3” by Cardre, and anatase / rutile TiO2treated with a polydimethylhydrosiloxane and for which the mean size of the individual particles is 25 nm, such as that marketed under the trademark “Microtitanium Dioxide USP Grade Hydrophobic” by Color Techniques.
[0188] Preferably, the following coated TiO2can be used as the coated inorganic UV filter:
[0189] Stearic acid (and) Aluminum Hydroxide (and) TiO2, such as the product “MT- 100 TV” from Tayca, with a mean primary particle diameter of 15 nm;
[0190] Dimethicone (and) Stearic Acid (and) Aluminum Hydroxide (and) TiO2, such as the product “SA- TTO-S4” from Miyoshi Kasei, with a mean primary particle diameter of 15 nm;
[0191] Silica (and) TiO2, such as the product “MT- 100 WP” from Tayca, with a mean primary particle diameter of 15 nm;
[0192] Dimethicone (and) Silica (and) Aluminum Hydroxide (and) TiO2, such as the product “MT-Y02” and “MT-Y-110 M3S” from Tayca, with a mean primary particle diameter of 10 nm;
[0193] Dimethicone (and) Aluminum Hydroxide (and) TiO2, such as the product “SA-TTO-S3” from Miyoshi Kasei, with a mean primary particle diameter of 15 nm;
[0194] Dimethicone (and) Alumina (and) TiO2, such as the product “UV TITAN Ml 70” from Sachtleben, with a mean primary particle diameter of 15 nm; and
[0195] Silica (and) Aluminum Hydroxide (and) Alginic Acid (and) T1O2, such as the product “MT-100 AQ” from Tayca, with a mean primary particle diameter of 15 nm.
[0196] In terms of UV filtering ability, TiO2coated with at least one organic UV filter is more preferable. For example, Avobenzone (and) Stearic Acid (and) Aluminum Hydroxide (and) TiO2, such as the product “HXMT-100ZA” from Tayca, with a mean primary particle diameter of 15 nm, can be used.
[0197] The uncoated titanium oxide pigments are, for example, marketed by Tayca under the trademarks “Microtitanium Dioxide MT500B” or “Microtitanium Dioxide MT600B”, by Degussa under the trademark “P 25”, by Wacker under the trademark “Oxyde de titane transparent PW”, by Miyoshi Kasei under the trademark "UFTR", by Tomen under the trademark “ITS” and by Tioxide under the trademark “Tioveil AQ”.
[0198] The uncoated zinc oxide pigments are, for example: those marketed under the trademark “Z-cote” by Sunsmart; those marketed under the trademark “Nanox” by Elementis; and those marketed under the trademark “Nanogard WCD 2025” by Nanophase Technologies.
[0199] The coated zinc oxide pigments are, for example: those marketed under the trademark “Oxide Zinc CS-5” by Toshiba (ZnO coated with polymethylhydrosiloxane); those marketed under the trademark “Nanogard Zinc Oxide FN” by Nanophase Technologies (as a 40% dispersion in Finsolv TN, C12-C15alkyl benzoate); those marketed under the trademark “Daitopersion Zn-30” and “Daitopersion Zn-50” by Daito (dispersions in oxyethylenated polydimethylsiloxane / cyclopolymethylsiloxane comprising 30% or 50% of zinc nano-oxides coated with silica and polymethylhydrosiloxane); those marketed under the trademark “NFD Ultrafine ZnO” by Daikin (ZnO coated with phosphate of perfluoroalkyl and a copolymer based on perfluoroalkylethyl as a dispersion in cyclopentasiloxane); those marketed under the trademark “SPD-Z1” by Shin-Etsu (ZnO coated with a silicone-grafted acrylic polymer dispersed in cyclodimethylsiloxane); those marketed under the trademark “Escalol Z100” by ISP (alumina-treated ZnO dispersed in an ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate / PVP-hexadecene copolymer / methicone mixture); those marketed under the trademark “Fuji ZnO-SMS-10” by Fuji Pigment (ZnO coated with silica and polymethylsilsesquioxane); and those marketed under the trademark “Nanox Gel TN” by Elementis (ZnO dispersed at 55% in C12-C15alkyl benzoate with hydroxystearic acid polycondensate).
[0200] The uncoated cerium oxide pigments are marketed, for example, under the trademark “Colloidal Cerium Oxide” by Rhone-Poulenc.
[0201] The uncoated iron oxide pigments are, for example, marketed by Arnaud under the trademarks “Nanogard WCD 2002 (FE 45B)”, “Nanogard Iron FE 45 BL AQ”, “Nanogard FE 45R AQ”, and “Nanogard WCD 2006 (FE 45R)”, or by Mitsubishi under the trademark “TY-220”.
[0202] The coated iron oxide pigments are, for example, marketed by Arnaud under the trademarks “Nanogard WCD 2008 (FE 45B FN)”, “Nanogard WCD 2009 (FE 45B 556)”, “Nanogard FE 45 BL 345”, and “Nanogard FE 45 BL”, or by BASF under the trademark “Oxyde de fer transparent”.
[0203] Mention may also be made of mixtures of metal oxides, in particular of titanium dioxide and of cerium dioxide, including a mixture of equal weights of titanium dioxide coated with silica and of cerium dioxide coated with silica marketed by Ikeda under the trademark “Sunveil A”, and also a mixture of titanium dioxide and of zinc dioxide coated with alumina, with silica and with silicone, such as the product “M 261” marketed by Kemira, or coated with alumina, with silica and with glycerol, such as the product “M 211” marketed by Kemira.
[0204] Coated inorganic UV filters are preferable because the UV filtering effects of the inorganic UV filters can be enhanced. In addition, the coating(s) may help uniformly or homogeneously disperse the UV filters in the composition according to the present invention.
[0205] (Organic UV Filter)
[0206] The (d) UV filter may be selected from organic UV filters. If two or more organic UV filters are used, they may be the same or different.
[0207] The organic UV filter can be hydrophobic or water-insoluble. The organic UV filter can function as an oily ingredient. Thus, the organic UV filter can form discontinuous or inner phases of the composition according to the present invention, if the composition according to the present invention is in the form of, for example, an O / W emulsion. The organic UV filter may be active in the UV-A and / or UV-B region. The organic UV filter may be lipophilic or oil-soluble.
[0208] The organic UV filter may be solid or liquid. The terms “solid” and “liquid” mean a substance with no fluidity and a substance with fluidity, respectively, at 25°C under 1 atm.
[0209] The organic UV filter can be selected from the group consisting of anthranilic compounds; dibenzoylmethane compounds; cinnamic compounds; salicylic compounds; camphor compounds; benzophenone compounds; β,β-diphenylacrylate compounds; triazine compounds; benzotriazole compounds; benzalmalonate compounds; benzimidazole compounds; imidazoline compounds; bis-benzoazolyl compounds; p-aminobenzoic acid (PABA) compounds; methylenebis(hydroxyphenylbenzotriazole) compounds; benzoxazole compounds; screening polymers and screening silicones; dimers derived from α-alkylstyrene; 4,4-diarylbutadiene compounds; guaiazulene and derivatives thereof; rutin and derivatives thereof; and mixtures thereof.
[0210] Mention may be made, as examples of the organic UV filter(s), of those denoted below under their INCI names, and mixtures thereof.
[0211] Anthranilic compounds: Menthyl anthranilate, marketed under the trademark "Neo Heliopan MA" by Haarmann and Reimer.
[0212] Dibenzoylmethane compounds: Butyl methoxy dibenzoylmethane, marketed in particular under the trademark "Parsol 1789" by Hoffrnann-La Roche; and isopropyl dibenzoylmethane.
[0213] Cinnamic compounds: Ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate, marketed in particular under the trademark "Parsol MCX" by Hoffrnann-La Roche; isopropyl methoxycinnamate; isopropoxy methoxycinnamate; isoamyl methoxycinnamate, marketed under the trademark "Neo Heliopan E 1000" by Haarmann and Reimer; cinoxate (2-ethoxyethyl-4-methoxy cinnamate); DEA methoxycinnamate; diisopropyl methylcinnamate; and glyceryl ethylhexanoate dimethoxycinnamate.
[0214] Salicylic compounds: Homosalate (homomenthyl salicylate), marketed under the trademark "Eusolex HMS" by Rona / EM Industries; ethylhexyl salicylate, marketed under the trademark "Neo Heliopan OS" by Haarmann and Reimer; glycol salicylate; butyloctyl salicylate; phenyl salicylate; dipropyleneglycol salicylate, marketed under the trademark "Dipsal" by Scher; and TEA salicylate, marketed under the trademark "Neo Heliopan TS" by Haarmann and Reimer.
[0215] Camphor compounds, in particular, benzylidenecamphor derivatives: 3 -benzylidene camphor, manufactured under the trademark "Mexoryl SD" by Chimex; 4-methylbenzylidene camphor, marketed under the trademark "Eusolex 6300" by Merck; benzylidene camphor sulfonic acid, manufactured under the trademark "Mexoryl SL" by Chimex; camphor benzalkonium methosulfate, manufactured under the trademark "Mexoryl SO" by Chimex; and polyacrylamidomethyl benzylidene camphor, manufactured under the trademark "Mexoryl S W" by Chimex.
[0216] Benzophenone compounds: Benzophenone- 1 (2,4-dihydroxybenzophenone), marketed under the trademark "Uvinul 400" by BASF; benzophenone-2 (Tetrahydroxybenzophenone), marketed under the trademark "Uvinul D50" by BASF; Benzophenone-3 (2-hydroxy-4- methoxybenzophenone) or oxybenzone, marketed under the trademark "Uvinul M40" by BASF; benzophenone-4 (hydroxymethoxy benzophonene sulfonic acid), marketed under the trademark "Uvinul MS40" by BASF; benzophenone-5 (Sodium hydroxymethoxy benzophenone Sulfonate); benzophenone-6 (dihydroxy dimethoxy benzophenone), marketed under the trademark "Helisorb 11" by Norquay; benzophenone-8, marketed under the trademark "Spectra-Sorb UV-24" by American Cyanamid; benzophenone-9 (Disodium dihydroxy dimethoxy benzophenonedisulfonate), marketed under the trademark "Uvinul DS-49" by BASF; benzophenone- 12, and n-hexyl 2-(4-diethylamino-2-hydroxybenzoyl)benzoate (UVINUL A+ by BASF).
[0217] P,p-Diphenylacrylate compounds: Octocrylene, marketed in particular under the trademark "Uvinul N539" by BASF; and Etocrylene, marketed in particular under the trademark "Uvinul N35" by BASF.
[0218] Triazine compounds: Diethylhexyl butamido triazone, marketed under the trademark "Uvasorb HEB" by Sigma 3V; 2,4,6-tris(dineopentyl 4'-aminobenzalmalonate)-s-triazine, bisethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine marketed under the trademark «TINOSORB S » by CIBA GEIGY, and ethylhexyl triazone marketed under the trademark « UVINUL T150 » by BASF.
[0219] Benzotriazole compounds, in particular, phenylbenzotriazole derivatives: 2-(2H- benzotriazole-2-yl)-6-dodecyl-4-methylpheno, branched and linear; and those described in USP 5240975.
[0220] Benzalmalonate compounds: Dineopentyl 4'-methoxybenzalmalonate, and polyorganosiloxane comprising benzalmalonate functional groups, such as polysilicone-15, marketed under the trademark "Parsol SLX" by Hoffmann-LaRoche.
[0221] Benzimidazole compounds, in particular, phenylbenzimidazole derivatives.
[0222] Imidazoline compounds: Ethylhexyl dimethoxybenzylidene dioxoimidazoline propionate.
[0223] Bis-benzoazolyl compounds: The derivatives as described in EP-669,323 and U.S. Pat. No. 2,463,264.
[0224] Para-aminobenzoic acid compounds: PABA (p-aminobenzoic acid), ethyl PABA, Ethyl dihydroxypropyl PABA, pentyl dimethyl PABA, ethylhexyl dimethyl PABA, marketed in particular under the trademark "Escalol 507" by ISP, glyceryl PABA, and PEG-25 PABA, marketed under the trademark "Uvinul P25" by BASF.
[0225] Methylene bis-(hydroxyphenylbenzotriazol) compounds, such as 2,2’-methylenebis[6- (2H-benzotriazol-2-yl)-4-methyl-phenol] marketed in the solid form under the trademark "Mixxim BB / 200" by Fairmount Chemical, 2,2’-methylenebis[6-(2H-benzotriazol-2-yl)-4- (1,1 ,3,3-tetramethylbutyl)phenol] marketed in the micronized form in aqueous dispersion under the trademark "Tinosorb M" by BASF, or under the trademark “Mixxim BB / 100” by Fairmount Chemical, and the derivatives as described in U.S. Pat. Nos. 5,237,071 and 5,166,355, GB- 2,303,549, DE-197,26,184 and EP-893,119, and Drometrizole trisiloxane, marketed under the trademark "Silatrizole" by Rhodia Chimie or “Mexoryl XL” by L’Oreal, as represented below.
[0226] Benzoxazole compounds: 2,4-bis[5-l(dimethylpropyl)benzoxazol-2-yl-(4- phenyl)imino]-6-(2-ethylhexyl)imino-l,3,5-triazine, marketed under the trademark Uvasorb K2A by Sigma 3V.
[0227] Screening polymers and screening silicones: The silicones described in WO 93 / 04665.
[0228] Dimers derived from α-alkylstyrene: The dimers described in DE-19855649.
[0229] 4,4-Diarylbutadiene compounds : 1 , 1 -dicarboxy(2,2'-dimethylpropyl)-4,4- diphenylbutadiene. It is preferable that the organic UV filter be selected from the group consisting of: butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane, ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate, homosalate, ethylhexyl salicylate, octocrylene, benzophenone-3, benzophenone-4, benzophenone- 5, n-hexyl 2-(4- diethylamino-2-hydroxybenzoyl)benzoate, 1 , 1'-( 1 ,4-piperazinediyl)bis[ 1 - [2- [4-(diethylamino)-2- hydroxybenzoyl] phenyl] -methanone 4-methylbenzylidene camphor, ethylhexyl triazone, bisethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine, diethylhexyl butamido triazone, 2,4,6- tris(dineopentyl 4'-aminobenzalmalonate)-s-triazine, 2,4,6-tris(diisobutyl 4'- aminobenzalmalonate)-s-triazine, 2,4-bis-(n-butyl 4’-aminobenzalmalonate)-6-[(3-{ 1 ,3,3,3- tetramethyl- 1 -[(trimethylsilyloxy]disiloxanyl}propyl)amino]-s-triazine, 2,4,6-tris-(di-phenyl)- triazine, 2,4,6-tris-(ter-phenyl)-triazine, methylene bis-benzotriazolyl tetramethylbutylphenol, drometrizole trisiloxane, polysilicone-15, dineopentyl 4'-methoxybenzalmalonate, 1,1- dicarboxy(2,2'-dimethylpropyl)-4,4-diphenylbutadiene, 2,4-bis [5- 1 (dimethylpropyl)benzoxazol- 2-yl-(4-phenyl)imino]-6-(2-ethylhexyl)imino-l,3,5-triazine, camphor benzylkonium methosulfate and mixtures thereof.
[0230] It is more preferable that the organic UV filter be selected from the group consisting of butyl methoxydimenzoylmethane, bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine, ethylhexyl triazone, drometrizole trisiloxane, ethylhexyl salicylate, octocrylene, homosalate, and a mixture thereof.
[0231] It is preferable that the (d) UV filter be selected from organic UV filters, and more preferably selected from the group consisting of butyl methoxydimenzoylmethane, bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine, ethylhexyl triazone, drometrizole trisiloxane, ethylhexyl salicylate, octocrylene, homosalate, and a mixture thereof.
[0232] (Water)
[0233] The composition according to the present invention may comprise (e) water.
[0234] The (e) water, if present, can form an aqueous phase of the composition according to the present invention.
[0235] If the composition according to the present invention is in the form of an O / W emulsion, the (e) water, if present, in the composition according to the present invention can form a continuous aqueous phase in the O / W emulsion.
[0236] The amount of the (e) water in the composition according to the present invention may be 20% by weight or more, preferably 30% by weight or more, and more preferably 40% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0237] On the other hand, the amount of the (e) water in the composition according to the present invention may be 70% by weight or less, preferably 65% by weight or less, and more preferably 60% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0238] The amount of (e) water in the composition according to the present invention may range from 20% to 70% by weight, preferably from 30% to 65% by weight, more preferably from 40% to 60% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0239] (Optional Ingredient) The composition according to the present invention may comprise, in addition to the aforementioned ingredients, optional ingredient(s) typically employed in cosmetics, specifically, hydrophilic thickeners, derived from, for example, synthetic polymers; volatile or non-volatile organic solvents other than the (c) hydrocarbon oil; anionic polymers; cationic polymers; amphoteric polymers; nonionic polymers; silicones and silicone derivatives; natural extracts derived from animals or vegetables; and the like, within a range which does not impair the effects of the present invention.
[0240] The composition according to the present invention may comprise the above optional ingredient(s) in an amount of from 0.01 % to 40% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 30% by weight, and more preferably from 0,1% to 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0241] [Preparation]
[0242] The composition according to the present invention can be prepared by mixing the essential ingredient(s) as explained above, and optional ingredient(s), if necessary, as explained above.
[0243] The method and means to mix the above essential and optional ingredients are not limited. Any conventional method and means can be used to mix the above essential and optional ingredients to prepare the composition according to the present invention.
[0244] [Form]
[0245] The form of the composition according to the present invention is not particularly limited, and may take various forms such as a solution and an emulsion.
[0246] It is preferable that the composition according to the present invention be in the form of an emulsion. It is more preferable that the composition according to the present invention be in the form of an O / W emulsion, which comprises fatty phases dispersed in a continuous aqueous phase. The dispersed faty phases can be oil droplets in the aqueous phase.
[0247] The O / W architecture or structure, which consists of faty phases dispersed in an aqueous phase, has an external aqueous phase, and therefore if the composition according to the present invention has the O / W architecture or structure, it can provide a pleasant feeling during use because of the feeling of immediate freshness that the aqueous phase can provide.
[0248] [Process and Use]
[0249] It is preferable that the composition according to the present invention be a cosmetic or dermatological composition, preferably a cosmetic composition, and more preferably a cosmetic composition for a keratin substance such as skin.
[0250] The composition according to the present invention can be used for a non-therapeutic process, such as a cosmetic process, for treating a keratin substance such as skin, mucous membranes, and / or the scalp, by being applied to the keratin substance.
[0251] Thus, the present invention also relates to a cosmetic process for treating a keratin substance such as skin, comprising the step of applying the composition according to the present invention to the keratin substance. The present invention also relates to a use of the composition according to the present invention as a cosmetic product or in a cosmetic product such as care products and make-up products, for body and / or facial skin and / or mucous membranes and / or the scalp.
[0252] In other words, the composition according to the present invention can be used, as it is, as a cosmetic product. Alternatively, the composition according to the present invention can be used as an element of a cosmetic product. For example, the composition according to the present invention can be added to or combined with any other elements to form a cosmetic product.
[0253] The care product may be a lotion, in particular a milky lotion, a cream, and the like. The make-up product may be a foundation, a lipstick, a lip gloss, an eye shadow, and the like.
[0254] Another aspect of the present invention relates to a use of (c) at least one hydrocarbon oil in a composition comprising:
[0255] (a) at least one gemini surfactant; and
[0256] (b) at least one lipophilic thickener in order to stabilize the composition.
[0257] Another aspect of the present invention also relates to a use of (c) at least one hydrocarbon oil in a composition comprising:
[0258] (a) at least one gemini surfactant;
[0259] (b) at least one lipophilic thickener;
[0260] (d) at least one UV filter, preferably at least one organic UV filter; and
[0261] (e) water wherein the composition comprises a continuous aqueous phase comprising the (e) water and dispersed fatty phases comprising the (c) UV filter, in order to reduce the size of the fatty phase.
[0262] The above explanations regarding ingredients (a) to (e) for the composition according to the present invention can apply to those for the above use according to the present invention. The explanations regarding the preparation and forms of the composition according to the present invention can also apply to those of the composition described in the above use.
[0263] EXAMPLES
[0264] The present invention will be described in more detail by way of examples which however should not be construed as limiting the scope of the present invention.
[0265] Examples 1-3 and Comparative Examples 1-8
[0266] The following compositions according to Examples 1-3 and Comparative Examples 1-8, shown in Table 1 , were prepared by mixing the ingredients shown in Table 1 as follows:
[0267] (1) mixing the ingredients of Phase A1 at 60-65°C to form a uniform mixture of Phase A1 ;
[0268] (2) adding the ingredients of Phase A2 to the uniform mixture of Phase A1 at 60-65°C followed by mixing with a homogenizer at 2,000 rpm for 5 minutes at 60-65°C to form a uniform mixture of Phases A1 andA2;
[0269] (3) adding the ingredients of Phase A3 to the uniform mixture of Phases A1 and A2 followed by mixing by a homogenizer at 2,000 rpm for 5 minutes at 60-65°C to form an aqueous phase; (4) separately mixing the ingredients of Phase B1 at 75-80°C to form an fatty phase;
[0270] (5) mixing the aqueous and oil phases at 60-65°C with a homogenizer at 4,000 rpm for 10 minutes to obtain a uniform mixture;
[0271] (6) cooling the uniform mixture of Phases A1, A2, A3 and B1 to about 28°C; and (7) adding the ingredients of Phases C and D to the uniform mixture of Phases A1, A2, A3 and B1 at about 28°C followed by mixing with a homogenizer at 3,000 rpm for 5 minutes.
[0272] The compositions according to Examples 1-3 and Comparative Examples 1-8 were in the form of an O / W emulsion.
[0273] The numerical values for the amounts of the components shown in Table 1 are all based on “% by weight” as active ingredients.
[0274]
[0275]
[0276] [Evaluation]
[0277] (Size of Largest Droplet)
[0278] Each of the compositions according to Examples 1-3 and Comparative Examples 1-8 was observed under microscopy (Olympus Polarizing Microscope BX51-P) to measure the largest size of the droplets (fatty phases) just after the preparation of the compositions at about 28°C. The size of the largest observable droplet was measured using image analysis software. The largest droplet size was categorized in accordance with the following criteria.
[0279] Good: less than 5 nm
[0280] Poor: 20 nm or less
[0281] Very Poor: more than 100 nm
[0282] The results of the above categorization are shown in Table 1.
[0283] (Summary)
[0284] The compositions according to Examples 1-3 included very fine droplets of the fatty phases. It is difficult for the fine droplets to aggregate to cause phase separation. Therefore, the compositions according to Examples 1 -3 are stable.
[0285] The compositions according to Comparative Examples 1-8 included larger droplets of the fatty phases. It is relatively easy for the larger droplets to aggregate to cause phase separation. Therefore, the compositions according to Comparative Examples 1-8 are less stable than the compositions according to Examples 1-3.
Claims
CLAIMS1. A composition, preferably a cosmetic composition, and more preferably a skin cosmetic composition, comprising:(a) at least one gemini surfactant;(b) at least one lipophilic thickener; and(c) at least one hydrocarbon oil.
2. The composition according to Claim 1, wherein the (a) gemini surfactant is selected from the compounds represented by the following formula (III):whereinY’ independently denotes a carboxylic acid group or an alkaline salt of a carboxylic acid group such as a sodium salt of a carboxylic acid group, j 1 , k1 , j2 and k2 denote integers such that (j 1 , k1 , j2, k2) = any of (2, 0, 2, 0), (2, 0, 0, 2), (0, 2, 2, 0) and (0, 2, 0, 2), and1 denotes an integer from 6 to 16, preferably from 8 to 14, and more preferably from 10 to 12.
3. The composition according to Claim 1 or 2, wherein the (a) gemini surfactant is selected from the group consisting of sodium dilauramidoglutamide lysine, sodium dimyristoylglutamide lysine, and sodium distearoylglutamide lysine, and a mixture thereof.
4. The composition according to any one of Claims 1 to 3, wherein the amount of the (a) amino acid surfactant(s) in the composition ranges from 0.01% to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 5% by weight, and more preferably from 0.1% to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
5. The composition according to any one of Claims 1 to 4, wherein the (b) lipophilic thickener is selected from lipophilic organic thickeners, preferably lipophilic organic polymers, more preferably lipophilic organic semi-crystalline polymers, and even more preferably polymers of at least one ester of (meth)acrylic acid and C10-C30aliphatic alcohol.
6. The composition according to any one of Claims 1 to 5, wherein the amount of the(b) lipophilic polymer(s) in the composition ranges from 0.01% to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 5% by weight, and more preferably from 0.1% to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
7. The composition according to any one of Claims 1 to 6, wherein the (c) hydrocarbon oil is selected from volatile and non-volatile, aliphatic and saturated hydrocarbons, preferably volatile and non-volatile C8-C22alkanes, and more preferably volatile C8- C22alkanes.
8. The composition according to any one of Claims 1 to 7, wherein the amount of the(c) hydrocarbon oil(s) in the composition ranges from 1% to 20% by weight, preferably from 2% to 15% by weight, and more preferably from 3% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
9. The composition according to any one of Claims 1 to 8, wherein the weight ratio of the amount of the (c) hydrocarbon oil / the amount of the (b) lipophilic polymer is from 7 to 13, preferably from 8 to 12, and more preferably from 9 to 11.
10. The composition according to any one of Claims 1 to 9, wherein the composition further comprises (d) at least one UV filter, preferably selected from organic UV filters, and more preferably selected from the group consisting of butyl methoxydimenzoylmethane, bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine, ethylhexyl triazone, drometrizole trisiloxane, ethylhexyl salicylate, octocrylene, homosalate, and a mixture thereof.
11. The composition according to Claim 10, wherein the amount of the (d) UV filter(s) in the composition ranges from 1% to 40% by weight, preferably from 5% to 35% by weight, and more preferably from 10% to 30% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
12. The composition according to any one of Claims 1 to 11, wherein the composition further comprises (e) water.
13. The composition according to Claim 12, wherein the amount of the (e) water in the composition ranges from 20% to 70% by weight, preferably from 30% to 65% by weight, and more preferably from 40% to 60% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
14. The composition according to Claim 12 or 13, wherein the composition is in the form of an O / W emulsion.
15. A cosmetic process for treating a keratin substance such as skin, comprising the step of applying the composition according to any one of Claims 1 to 14 to the keratin substance.