Aqueous cosmetic or dermatological composition comprising a merocyanine and a water-soluble uv-screening agent
Patent Information
- Authority / Receiving Office
- EP · EP
- Patent Type
- Applications
- Current Assignee / Owner
- LOREAL SA
- Filing Date
- 2024-05-27
- Publication Date
- 2026-04-22
AI Technical Summary
Current photoprotective compositions have insufficient effectiveness against long UVA radiation, particularly above 370 nm, and often result in unstable, greasy, or tacky textures due to high UV-screening agent content, leading to unpleasant sensory experiences and instability issues like phase separation.
Incorporating a water-soluble UV-screening agent that enhances the solubility of merocyanines in both aqueous and fatty phases, allowing for higher concentrations without additional solvents, resulting in stable, non-greasy, and transparent cosmetic compositions with improved long UVA-screening efficiency.
The compositions achieve enhanced solubility and stability of merocyanines, providing effective UV protection across the 280-400 nm spectrum with improved cosmetic properties, such as non-greasy feel and transparency, while maintaining a pleasant sensory experience.
Smart Images

Figure EP2024064515_19122024_PF_FP_ABST
Abstract
Description
Aqueous cosmetic or dermatological composition comprising a merocyanine and a water-soluble UV-screening agent
[0001] The present invention relates to an aqueous cosmetic or dermatological composition comprising at least one merocyanine of formula (3) that will be defined in detail below and at least one water-soluble UV-screening agent.
[0002] It is known that radiation with wavelengths of between 280 nm and 400 nm makes possible tanning of the human epidermis and that radiation with wavelengths of between 280 and 320 nm, known under the name of UV-B rays, harms the development of a natural tan. Exposure is also liable to induce impairment of the biomechanical properties of the epidermis, which is reflected by the appearance of wrinkles, leading to premature ageing of the skin.
[0003] It is also known that UV-A rays with wavelengths of between 320 and 400 nm penetrate more deeply into the skin than UV-B rays. UV-A rays cause immediate and persistent browning of the skin. Daily exposure to UVA rays, even for a short period, under normal conditions can lead to degradation of the collagen and elastin fibres, which is reflected by a change in the skin’s microrelief, the appearance of wrinkles and non-uniform pigmentation (liver spots, or heterogeneity of the complexion).
[0004] Protection against UVA and UVB radiation is therefore necessary. An effective photoprotective product must protect against both UVA and UVB radiation.
[0005] Many photoprotective compositions have been proposed to date to overcome the effects induced by UVA and / or UVB radiation. They generally contain organic UV-screening agents and / or inorganic UV-screening agents, which function according to their own chemical nature and according to their own properties by absorption, reflection or scattering of the UV radiation. They generally contain mixtures of liposoluble organic screening agents and / or of water-soluble UV-screening agents combined with metal oxide pigments such as titanium dioxide or zinc oxide.
[0006] Moreover, the majority of organic UV-screening agents are constituted of aromatic compounds which absorb in the range of wavelengths between 280 and 370 nm. In addition to their solar radiation-screening capacity, the desired photoprotective compounds must also have good cosmetic properties, good solubility in the usual solvents and in particular in fatty substances such as oils, or in water, and also good photostability alone or in combination with other UV-screening agents. They must also be colourless or at least have a colour which is cosmetically acceptable to the consumer.
[0007] One of the main disadvantages known to date of these compositions is that these screening systems have insufficient effectiveness against UV radiation and particularly against long UVA radiation with wavelengths above 370 nm with the aim of controlling light-induced pigmentation and the development thereof by a system which screens out UV radiation over the whole of the UV spectrum.
[0008] Among all the compounds that have been recommended for this purpose, an advantageous family of UV-screening agents which is constituted of carbonated merocyanine derivatives has been proposed, which is described in patent US 4 195 999, application WO 2004 / 006878 and document IP COM Journal 4 (4), 16 No. IPCOM000011179D published on 04 / 03 / 2004. These compounds exhibit very good screening properties in the long UVA radiation range but exhibit a solubility in the usual solvents, both in the aqueous phase and in the fatty phase, which is only slightly satisfactory and a photostability which is unsatisfactory for some merocyanines.
[0009] With the aim of searching for other merocyanines which have better solubility in the usual solvents and better photostability, application WO 2013 / 011094 has proposed merocyanines comprising polar groups constituted of hydroxyl and ether functions, which show good long UVA-screening efficiency. However, the solubility of these particular merocyanines is still not entirely satisfactory and often requires a tedious formulating process. Moreover, the large amounts of solvent that are required in order to dissolve this type of merocyanine may lead to cosmetic displeasures such as a tacky and greasy effect on application.
[0010] There thus remains the need to improve the solubility of these merocyanines in cosmetic compositions, in particular photoprotective formulations, both in the aqueous phase and in the fatty phase, while still obtaining good cosmeticity.
[0011] Moreover, there also remains the need to improve the solubility of merocyanines in the presence of organic screening agents. Indeed, the addition of additional screening agents can destabilize compositions comprising a merocyanine.
[0012] The UV-screening agents are mostly conveyed in an oily phase and / or in an aqueous phase as anti-UV active agent and are generally proposed in a presentation form of emulsion or gel type.
[0013] It is also known that high contents of screening agents are required to achieve high levels of screening efficiency.
[0014] However, high contents of UV-screening agents do not lend themselves to easy production of compositions having a stabilized and pleasant texture.
[0015] Thus, formulations with high screening power can generally have uncomfortable or even unpleasant sensory aspects masking the freshness and comfort of the formulations. In particular, the weak point of photoprotective formulations with a high protection factor can often be a strong greasy feel, and thus a lack of lightness of the textures obtained, but also a white appearance on application, thus not being invisible on the skin.
[0016] Moreover, the introduction of a high content of UV-screening agents generally brings about destabilization problems. This instability may even occasionally cause phase separation of the emulsion and / or a loss of viscosity of the composition, making the formulation inefficient or even unusable.
[0017] To overcome the abovementioned undesirable effects, and in particular to obtain a fresh effect on application and an invisible effect on the skin, aqueous presentation forms have already been considered. However, these aqueous compositions containing UV-screening agents are generally tacky and thus uncomfortable.
[0018] Consequently, there is a need for an aqueous cosmetic or dermatological composition which has good long UVA-screening efficiency, which has good cosmetic properties, and which is perfectly stable and homogeneous, that is to say not subject to demixing phenomena.
[0019] There is also a need for an aqueous photoprotective composition which has a good screening efficiency throughout the wavelength spectrum between 280 and 400 nm, which has good cosmetic properties, and which is perfectly stable and homogeneous, that is to say not subject to demixing phenomena.
[0020] There is still a need for an aqueous cosmetic or dermatological composition which has good long UVA-screening efficiency and which is, moreover, transparent. In addition, there is a need for a cosmetic or dermatological composition which is transparent even after application to the skin.
[0021] In particular, there remains a need for an aqueous cosmetic or dermatological composition which has good screening efficiency between 370 nm and 400 nm, and possibly a high level of UV protection over the entire wavelength spectrum between 280 nm and 400 nm, which has good cosmetic properties on application, notably which is easy to apply, without a greasy or tacky finish on the skin, in particular after drying, and which has a pleasant sensory effect materialized in particular by glidance on application.
[0022] The object of the present invention is to propose new cosmetic or dermatological compositions which solve these problems.
[0023] The applicant has discovered, surprisingly, that the addition of at least one water-soluble screening agent, which is not a solvent and must itself be solubilized in water, makes it possible to very significantly increase the water-solubility of the merocyanines described above.
[0024] This makes it possible to solubilize these specific merocyanines in essentially aqueous sunscreen products without the addition of additional solvent.
[0025] This discovery forms the basis of the present invention.Disclosure of the invention
[0026] Thus, in accordance with one of the subjects of the present invention, an aqueous cosmetic or dermatological composition is now proposed, comprising:
[0027] a) at least one merocyanine of formula (3) that will be defined in detail below, in an amount of less than 3% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition; and
[0028] b) at least one water-soluble UV-screening agent.
[0029] Thus, the water-solubility of merocyanines is improved in the presence of at least one water-soluble UV-screening agent.
[0030] The applicant has discovered, surprisingly, that by using at least one water-soluble UV-screening agent, it is also possible to substantially improve the solubility of these merocyanines in an aqueous phase, even in the presence of additional organic UV-screening agents.
[0031] The applicant has also discovered that the use of at least one such merocyanine in combination with at least one water-soluble UV-screening agent makes it possible to obtain good cosmeticity of the composition comprising the merocyanines, said composition being in particular non-greasy and non-sticky.
[0032] Moreover, the present invention makes it possible to obtain compositions which are transparent, even after application to the skin.
[0033] The present invention also relates to a non-therapeutic cosmetic process for caring for and / or making up a keratin material, comprising the application, to the surface of said keratin material, of at least one cosmetic composition according to the invention as defined above.
[0034] The invention also relates to a non-therapeutic cosmetic process for limiting the darkening of the skin and / or improving the colour and / or uniformity of the complexion, comprising the application, to the surface of the keratin material, of at least one cosmetic composition as defined previously.
[0035] The invention also relates to a non-therapeutic cosmetic process for preventing and / or treating the signs of ageing of a keratin material, comprising the application, to the surface of the keratin material, of at least one cosmetic composition as defined previously.
[0036] The present invention also relates to the use of at least one water-soluble UV-screening agent for solubilizing a merocyanine of formula (3) as defined below in the aqueous phase.
[0037] Other characteristics, aspects and advantages of the invention will become apparent on reading the detailed description that follows.
[0038] The composition according to the invention is intended for topical application and thus contains a physiologically acceptable medium. The term “physiologically acceptable medium” means here a medium that is compatible with keratin materials.
[0039] In the context of the present invention, the term “keratin material” notably means the skin, scalp, keratin fibres, such as the eyelashes, eyebrows, head hair and bodily hair, nails, mucous membranes, such as the lips, and more particularly the skin and mucous membranes (body, face, area around the eyes, eyelids, lips, preferably body, face and lips).
[0040] In the text hereinbelow, unless otherwise indicated, the limits of a range of values are included in that range, notably in the expressions “between” and “ranging from ... to ...”.
[0041] Moreover, the expressions “at least one” and “at least” used in the present description are equivalent to the expressions “one or more” and “greater than or equal to”, respectively.
[0042] According to the invention, the term “preventing” or “prevention” means reducing the risk of occurrence or slowing down the occurrence of a given phenomenon, namely, according to the present invention, the signs of ageing of a keratin material.
[0043] The term “organic UVA-screening agent” refers to any organic chemical molecule that is capable of absorbing at least UVA radiation in the wavelength range between 320 and 400 nm; said molecule may also additionally absorb UVB radiation in the wavelength range between 280 and 320 nm.
[0044] The term “organic UVB-screening agent” is understood to mean any organic chemical molecule capable of absorbing exclusively UVB radiation in the range of wavelengths of between 280 and 320 nm.
[0045] For the purposes of the present invention, the term “transparent or translucent composition” refers to a composition which has a turbidity value of less than 1000 NTU, preferably less than 800 NTU, even more preferentially less than 500 NTU, better still less than 200 NTU, preferably less than 150 NTU, notably less than 100 NTU. Preferably, the turbidity of the compositions is at least equal to 1 NTU.
[0046] The NTU (nephelometric turbidity unit) is the unit of measurement of the turbidity of a composition. The measurement of the turbidity is carried out, for example, with a 2100P model turbidimeter from Hach, the tubes used for the measurement being referenced AR397A cat 24347-06. The measurements are performed at ambient temperature (from 20°C to 25°C).
[0047] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the composition is transparent and has a turbidity value of between 1 and 200 NTU, preferably between 1 and 150 NTU, preferably less than 100 NTU.
[0048] Preferably, the composition is transparent after it has been applied to the skin, i.e. no white marks are left after spreading the composition on the skin.Detailed description of the inventionMEROCYANINES
[0049] According to the present invention, use will be made of a family of merocyanines corresponding to formula (3) below, and also the geometric isomer forms, notably the E / E- or E / Z- geometric isomer forms, thereof:
[0050] in which:
[0051] A is -O- or -NH-;
[0052] R is a C1-C22alkyl group, a C2-C22alkenyl group, a C2-C22alkynyl group, a C3-C22cycloalkyl group or a C3-C22cycloalkenyl group, it being possible for said groups to be interrupted with one or more O.
[0053] The merocyanine compounds of the invention may be in the E / E- or E / Z- geometric isomer forms thereof:
[0054] The compounds of formula (3) which are even more preferential are those where:
[0055] A is -O-; R is a C1-C22alkyl, which may be interrupted with one or more O.
[0056] Use will more particularly be made, among the compounds of formula (3), of those chosen from the following group and also the geometric isomer forms, notably the E / E- or E / Z- geometric isomer forms, thereof:
[0057] [Corrected under Rule 26, 05.07.2024]
[0058] According to a more particularly preferred embodiment of the invention, use will be made of the compound 2-ethoxyethyl (2Z)-cyano{3-[(3-methoxypropyl)amino]cyclohex-2-en-1-ylidene}ethanoate (25) in its E / E- and / or E / Z- geometric configuration.
[0059] The E / Z form has the following structure:
[0060] The E / E form has the following structure:
[0061] The screening merocyanines according to the invention are present in the composition in an amount of less than 3% by weight, preferably in an amount of less than or equal to 2.5% by weight, preferably in an amount of between 0.01% and 2.5% by weight, and even more preferentially between 0.5% and 1.5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0062] The compounds of formula (3), which form a carbocyclic ring containing 6 carbon atoms, may be prepared according to the protocols described in patent application WO 2007 / 071582, in IP.com Journal (2009), 9(5A), 29-30 IPCOM000182396D under the title “Process for producing 3-amino-2-cyclohexan-1-ylidene compounds” and in US-A-4,749,643 on col. 13, line 66 – col. 14, line 57, and the references cited in this regard.
[0063] [Corrected under Rule 26, 05.07.2024]In particular, the compounds of formula (3), such as the compound 2-ethoxyethyl (2Z)-cyano{3-[(3-methoxypropyl)amino]cyclohex-2-en-1-ylidene}ethanoate (25) can be synthesized according to the synthesis scheme described in the publication by B. Winkler et al., Tetrahedron Letters, 55 (2014) 1749-1751, which is entitled “A cyclic merocyanine UV-A absorber: mechanism of formation and crystal structure”, and represented below, for the compounds of formula (3):
[0064] and more particularly for compound 25 described in Table 1: WATER-SOLUBLE ORGANIC UV-SCREENING AGENTS
[0065] The composition in accordance with the invention comprises at least one water-soluble organic UV-screening agent.
[0066] The term “water-soluble organic screening agent” is understood to mean any organic screening agent capable of being completely dissolved in molecular form in an aqueous liquid phase or of being dissolved in colloidal form (for example in micellar form) in an aqueous liquid phase.
[0067] Among the water-soluble organic UVA-screening agents that may be used according to the present invention, mention may be made of benzene-1,4-bis(3-methylidene-10-camphorsulfonic) acid (INCI name: Terephthalylidene Dicamphor Sulfonic Acid) and the various salts thereof, notably described in patent applications FR-A-2528420 and FR-A-2639347. Mention may notably be made of benzene-1,4-bis(3-methylidene-10-camphorsulfonic acid) (INCI name: Terephthalylidene Dicamphor Sulfonic Acid) such as that produced under the name Mexoryl® SX by Noveal,
[0068] These screening agents correspond to general formula (I) below:
[0069] in which F denotes a hydrogen atom, an alkali metal or a radical NH(R1)3+in which the radicals R1, which may be identical or different, denote a hydrogen atom, a C1to C4alkyl or hydroxyalkyl radical or a group Mn+, Mn+denoting a polyvalent metal cation in which n is equal to 2 or 3 or 4, Mn+preferably denoting a metal cation chosen from Ca2+, Zn2+, Mg2+, Ba2+, Al3+and Zr4+. It is clearly understood that the compounds of formula (I) above can give rise to the “cis-trans” isomer around one or more double bond(s) and that all the isomers come within the context of the present invention.
[0070] Among the water-soluble organic UVA-screening agents that may be used according to the present invention, mention may also be made of compounds including at least two benzazolyl groups bearing sulfonic groups, such as those described in patent application EP-A-0669323.
[0071] They are described and prepared according to the syntheses indicated in patent US 2 463 264 and also in patent application EP-A-0669323.
[0072] The compounds comprising at least two benzazolyl groups in accordance with the invention correspond to general formula (II) below: (II)
[0073] in which,
[0074] - Z represents an organic residue of valency (l + n) comprising one or more double bonds placed such that it completes the system of double bonds of at least two benzazolyl groups as defined inside the square brackets so as to form a totally conjugated assembly;
[0075] - X’ denotes S, O or NR6;
[0076] - R1denotes a hydrogen atom, a C1to C18alkyl, a C1to C4alkoxy, a C5to C15aryl, a C2to C18acyloxy, or a group SO3Y or COOY;
[0077] - the radicals R2, R3, R4and R5, which may be identical or different, denote a nitro group or a radical R1;
[0078] - R6denotes a hydrogen atom, a C1to C4alkyl or a C1to C4hydroxyalkyl;
[0079] - Y denotes a hydrogen atom, Li, Na, K, NH4, 1 / 2Ca, 1 / 2Mg, 1 / 3Al or a cation resulting from the neutralization of a free acid group with an organic nitrogen base;
[0080] - m is 0 or 1;
[0081] - n is a number from 2 to 6;
[0082] - l is a number from 1 to 4;
[0083] - with the proviso that l + n does not exceed the value 6.
[0084] Among these compounds, 1,4-bis-benzimidazolyl-phenylene-3,3’,5,5’-tetrasulfonic acid (INCI name: Disodium Phenyl Dibenzimidazole Tetrasulfonate) or a salt thereof, having the following structure (III), sold in particular under the name Neo Heliopan® AP by Symrise: (III)
[0085] Preferably, the water-soluble screening agent that is capable of absorbing UVA rays is benzene-1,4-bis(3-methylidene-10-camphorsulfonic acid) (INCI name: Terephthalylidene Dicamphor Sulfonic Acid) such as the product which is produced under the name Mexoryl SX by Noveal.
[0086] The water-soluble organic UVB-screening agents that may be used according to the present invention are notably chosen from water-soluble cinnamic derivatives, such as ferulic acid or 3-methoxy-4-hydroxycinnamic acid; water-soluble benzylidenecamphor compounds; water-soluble phenylbenzimidazole compounds; water-soluble p-aminobenzoic (PABA) compounds; water-soluble salicylic compounds, and mixtures thereof.
[0087] Mention may be made, as examples of water-soluble organic UVB-screening agents, of phenylbenzimidazole compounds, such as 2-phenyl-1H-benzimidazole-5-sulfonic acid (INCI name: Phenylbenzimidazole Sulfonic Acid) sold in particular under the trade name Eusolex 232®by Merck.
[0088] The composition according to the invention may also comprise at least one mixed water-soluble screening agent capable of absorbing UVA and UVB rays.
[0089] When the water-soluble UV-screening agent is of sulfonic acid type, it is preferably associated with an organic base, such as an alkanolamine, or a mineral base, such as sodium hydroxide or potassium hydroxide.
[0090] The term “alkanolamine” means a C2-C10compound comprising at least one primary, secondary or tertiary amine function and at least one alcohol, generally primary alcohol, function. As suitable alkanolamines, mention may be made of 2-amino-2-(hydroxymethyl)-1,3-propanediol (INCI name: Tromethamine) and triethanolamine.
[0091] The water-soluble organic UV-screening agent(s) may be present in the compositions according to the invention in a concentration ranging from 0.1% to 19% by weight, and preferentially from 0.5% to 12% by weight, and even better still from 3% to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.ADDITIONAL UV-SCREENING AGENTS
[0092] The composition in accordance with the invention may comprise at least one additional UV-screening agent other than the merocyanines of formula (3) and the water-soluble organic UV-screening agents as described above.
[0093] The additional UV-screening agent(s) may be chosen from lipophilic organic UV-screening agents, water-dispersible organic UV-screening agents and inorganic UV-screening agents.
[0094] According to a particular embodiment, the additional UV-screening agent(s) may be chosen from water-dispersible organic-UV-screening agents and inorganic UV-screening agents.Lipophilic organic UV-screening agents
[0095] The term “organic lipophilic screening agent” is intended to mean any cosmetic or dermatological organic compound for screening out UV radiation, which can be fully dissolved in molecular form in a liquid fatty phase or else which can be dissolved in colloidal form (for example in micellar form) in a liquid fatty phase.
[0096] The lipophilic organic screening agents are notably chosen from cinnamic compounds; anthranilate compounds; salicylic compounds; dibenzoylmethane compounds; benzylidenecamphor compounds; benzophenone compounds; β,β-diphenylacrylate compounds; triazine compounds; benzotriazole compounds; benzalmalonate compounds, in particular those cited in patent US 5 624 663; benzimidazole derivatives; imidazoline compounds; bis-benzazolyl compounds, as described in patents EP 669 323 and US 2 463 264; methylenebis(hydroxyphenylbenzotriazole) compounds, as described in patent applications US 5 237 071, US 5 166 355, GB 2 303 549, DE 197 26 184 and EP 893 119; benzoxazole compounds, as described in patent applications EP 0 832 642, EP 1 027 883, EP 1 300 137 and DE 101 62 844; screening polymers and screening silicones, such as those described notably in patent application WO 93 / 04665; α-alkylstyrene-based dimers, such as those described in patent application DE 198 55 649; 4,4-diarylbutadiene compounds, as described in patent applications EP 0 967 200, DE 197 46 654, DE 197 55 649, EP-A-1 008 586, EP 1 133 980 and EP 133 981, and mixtures thereof.
[0097] Preferably, the lipophilic organic screening agent(s) is (are) chosen from salicylic compounds; dibenzoylmethane compounds; benzylidenecamphor compounds; benzophenone compounds; triazine compounds; benzotriazole compounds; and mixtures thereof.
[0098] As examples of lipophilic organic photoprotective agents, mention may be made of those denoted hereinbelow under their INCI name and / or their chemical name.Cinnamic compounds:
[0099] Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate, sold especially under the trade name Parsol® MCX by DSM Nutritional Products;
[0100] Isoamyl p-Methoxycinnamate sold under the trade name Neo Heliopan E 1000® by Symrise,Dibenzoylmethane compounds:
[0101] Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane sold in particular under the trade name Parsol® 1789 by DSM Nutritional Products,Salicylic compounds:
[0102] Homosalate sold under the name Parsol® HMS by DSM Nutritional Products,
[0103] Ethylhexyl Salicylate sold under the name Neo Heliopan® OS by Symrise,β,β-Diphenylacrylate compounds:
[0104] Octocrylene, sold in particular under the trade name Uvinul® N 539 T by BASF,Benzophenone compounds:
[0105] Benzophenone-3 or Oxybenzone, sold under the trade name Uvinul® M 40 by BASF,
[0106] Diethylamino hydroxybenzoyl hexyl benzoate sold under the trade name Uvinul® A Plus or, as a mixture with ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate, under the trade name Uvinul® A Plus B by BASF,Benzylidenecamphor compounds:
[0107] 4-Methylbenzylidenecamphor sold under the name Eusolex® 6300 by Merck,Phenylbenzotriazole compounds:
[0108] Drometrizole Trisiloxane produced under the name Mexoryl® XL by Noveal,
[0109] Methylenebis(hydroxyphenylbenzotriazole) compounds:
[0110] Methylene bis-Benzotriazolyl Tetramethylbutylphenol, in particular in solid form, such as the product sold under the trade name MIXXIM BB / 100® by Fairmount Chemical,Triazine compounds:
[0111] - 3,3’-(1,4-Phenylene)bis(5,6-diphenyl-1,2,4-triazine), with the INCI name Phenylene Bis-Diphenyltriazine,
[0112] - Bis-Ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine sold under the trade name Parsol Shield ® by DSM Nutritional Products and under the trade name Tinosorb® S by BASF,
[0113] - Ethylhexyl Triazone, sold in particular under the trade name Uvinul® T 150 by BASF,
[0114] - Diethylhexyl Butamidotriazone sold under the trade name Uvasorb® HEB by 3V Sigma,
[0115] - the symmetrical triazine screening agents substituted with naphthalenyl groups or polyphenyl groups described in US 6 225 467, patent application WO2004 / 085412 (see compounds 6 and 9) or the document “Symmetrical triazine derivatives” (IP.COM) IPCOM000031257 Journal, Inc West Henrietta, NY, US (20 September 2004),Anthranilic compounds:
[0116] Methyl anthranilate sold under the trade name Neo Heliopan® MA by Symrise,Benzalmalonate compounds:
[0117] Polyorganosiloxane comprising benzalmalonate functions, such as Polysilicone-15, sold under the trade name Parsol SLX® by Hoffmann-La Roche.Water-dispersible organic UV-screening agents
[0118] The term “water-dispersible organic screening agent” means any organic screening agent that is capable of forming, in a liquid aqueous phase, a homogeneous suspension of particles with a volume-average size of less than 100 microns. The volume-average size is determined by laser diffraction particle size analysis.
[0119] Among the water-dispersible organic screening agents, mention may be made of the following screening agents.Benzophenone compounds:
[0120] 1,1’-(1,4-Piperazinediyl)bis[1-[2-[4-(diethylamino)-2-hydroxybenzoyl]phenyl]methanone] (CAS 919803-06-8), as described in application WO 2007 / 071584; this compound advantageously being used in micronized form (volume-average size of 0.02 to 2 µm), which may be obtained, for example, according to the micronization process described in applications GB-A-2 303 549 and EP-A-893 119, and in particular in the form of an aqueous dispersion,
[0121] Methylenebis(hydroxyphenylbenzotriazole) compounds:
[0122] Methylenebis(benzotriazolyl)tetramethylbutylphenol,
[0123] in the form of an aqueous dispersion of micronized particles having a volume-average particle size ranging from 0.01 to 5 μm, more preferentially from 0.01 to 2 μm, and more particularly from 0.020 to 2 μm, with at least one alkylpolyglycoside surfactant having the structure CnH2n+1O(C6H10O5)xH in which n is an integer from 8 to 16 and x is the average degree of polymerization of the unit (C6H10O5) and ranges from 1.4 to 1.6, such as the aqueous dispersions described in patent GB-A-2 303 549, in particular the product sold under the trade name Tinosorb® M by BASF, or
[0124] in the form of an aqueous dispersion of micronized particles having a volume-average particle size ranging from 0.02 to 2 μm, more preferentially from 0.01 to 1.5 μm, and more particularly from 0.02 to 1 μm, in the presence of at least one mono(C8-C20)alkyl ester of polyglycerol having a degree of glycerol polymerization of at least 5, such as the aqueous dispersions described in application WO2009 / 063392, in particular the product sold under the name Tinosorb WPGL by BASF,Triazine compounds:
[0125] - Bis-Ethylhexyloxyphenol Methoxyphenyl Triazine in its water-dispersible form having the INCI name Bis-Ethylhexyloxyphenol Methoxyphenyl Triazine (and) Acrylates / C12-22 Alkyl Methacrylate Copolymer, under the trade name Tinosorb® S LiteAqua by BASF,
[0126] - symmetrical triazine screening agents substituted with naphthalenyl groups or polyphenyl groups used in micronized form (average particle size of 0.02 to 3 µm) which can be obtained, for example, by the micronization process described in applications GB-A-2 303 549 and EP-A-893119, and in particular in aqueous dispersion form, in particular 2,4,6-tris(biphenyl)triazine and 2,4,6-tris(ter-phenyl)triazine sold under the name Tinosorb® A2B by BASF and which is included in patent applications WO06 / 035000, WO06 / 034982, WO06 / 034991, WO06 / 035007, WO2006 / 034992, WO2006 / 034985,Benzoxazole compounds:
[0127] 2-[4-(1,3-benzoxazol-2-yl)phenyl]-1,3-benzoxazole, having the CAS number 904-39-2.Inorganic UV-screening agents
[0128] The inorganic UV-screening agents that may be used in accordance with the present invention are metal oxide pigments. More preferentially, the inorganic UV-screening agents of the invention are metal oxide particles having an average elementary particle size of less than or equal to 0.5 µm, more preferentially of between 0.005 and 0.5 µm, even more preferentially of between 0.01 and 0.2 µm, even better still between 0.01 and 0.1 µm and more particularly between 0.015 and 0.05 µm. They are in particular described in annex VI, updated on 22 September 2021, of EU regulation number 1223 / 2009 regarding cosmetic products, but are not limited to this list.
[0129] They may notably be chosen from titanium oxide, zinc oxide, iron oxide, zirconium oxide and cerium oxide, or mixtures thereof.
[0130] Such coated or uncoated metal oxide pigments are described in particular in patent application EP-A-0 518 773. Commercial pigments that may be mentioned include the products sold by the companies Croda, Tayca and Merck.
[0131] The metal oxide pigments may be coated or uncoated.
[0132] The coated pigments are pigments which have undergone one or more surface treatments of chemical, electronic, mechanochemical and / or mechanical nature with compounds such as amino acids, beeswax, fatty acids, fatty alcohols, anionic surfactants, lecithins, sodium, potassium, zinc, iron or aluminium salts of fatty acids, metal alkoxides (of titanium or aluminium), polyethylene, silicones, proteins (collagen, elastin), alkanolamines, silicon oxides, metal oxides or sodium hexametaphosphate.
[0133] The coated pigments are more particularly titanium oxides that have been coated:
[0134] - with hydrated silica, such as the product MT-100WP from Tayca,
[0135] - with silica and iron oxide, such as the product Sunveil F® from Ikeda,
[0136] - with silica and alumina, such as the products MT-500SA® and MT-100SA® from Tayca and Tioveil™ AQ-N from Croda,
[0137] - with alumina, such as the product TTO-55 (A)® from Ishihara,
[0138] - with alumina and aluminium stearate, such as the products MT-100TV®, MT-100Z® and MT-01® from Tayca, the product Solaveil™ CT100 from Croda and the product Eusolex T-AVO® from Merck,
[0139] - with silica, alumina and alginic acid, such as the product MT-100AQ® from Tayca,
[0140] - with alumina and aluminium laurate,
[0141] - with iron oxide and iron stearate,
[0142] - with zinc oxide and zinc stearate,
[0143] - with silica and alumina and treated with a silicone, such as the products MT-500SAS® or Microtitanium Dioxide MT-100SAS® from Tayca,
[0144] - with silica, alumina, and aluminium stearate and treated with a silicone,
[0145] - with silica and treated with a silicone,
[0146] - with silica and treated with a silicone, such as the product TTO-55(S)® from Ishihara,
[0147] - with triethanolamine,
[0148] - with stearic acid, such as the product TTO-55 (C)® from Ishihara,
[0149] - with sodium hexametaphosphate,
[0150] - with TiO2treated with octyltrimethylsilane,
[0151] - with TiO2treated with a polydimethylsiloxane,
[0152] - with anatase / rutile TiO2treated with a polydimethylhydrogenosiloxane,
[0153] - with TiO2coated with triethylhexanoin, with aluminium stearate and with alumina sold under the trade name SolaveilTMCT-200 by Croda,
[0154] - with TiO2coated with aluminium stearate, with alumina and with silicone, sold under the trade name SolaveilTMCT-12W by Croda,
[0155] - with TiO2coated with lauroyl lysine,
[0156] - with TiO2coated with C9-C15fluoroalcohol phosphate and with aluminium hydroxide.
[0157] Mention may also be made of TiO2pigments doped with at least one transition metal such as iron, zinc or manganese and more particularly manganese. Preferably, said doped pigments are in the form of an oily dispersion. The oil present in the oily dispersion is preferably chosen from triglycerides including those of capric / caprylic acids. The oily dispersion of titanium oxide particles may also comprise one or more dispersants, for instance a sorbitan ester, for instance sorbitan isostearate, or a polyoxyalkylenated fatty acid ester of glycerol, for instance Tri-PPG-3 myristyl ether citrate and polyglyceryl-3 polyricinoleate. Preferably, the oily dispersion of titanium oxide particles includes at least one dispersant chosen from polyoxyalkylenated fatty acid esters of glycerol. Mention may be made more particularly of the oily dispersion of TiO2particles doped with manganese in capric / caprylic acid triglyceride in the presence of TRI-PPG-3 myristyl ether citrate and polyglyceryl-3 polyricinoleate and sorbitan isostearate having the INCI name: Titanium Dioxide (and) Tri-PPG-3 Myristyl Ether Citrate (and) Polyglyceryl-3 Ricinoleate (and) Sorbitan Isostearate, or the product sold under the trade name OptisolTMOTP-1 by Croda.
[0158] The uncoated titanium oxide pigments are for example sold by Tayca under the trade names MT-500B or MT-600B® or by Evonik under the name Degussa P 25.
[0159] The uncoated zinc oxide pigments are, for example:
[0160] - those sold under the name Z-Cote® by BASF;
[0161] - those sold under the name NanoArc® Zinc Oxide by Nanophase Technologies.
[0162] The coated zinc oxide pigments are, for example:
[0163] - ZnO coated with polymethylhydrosiloxane;
[0164] - Solaveil™ CZ-100 from Croda, dispersed in C12-C15alkyl benzoate (INCI: Zinc Oxide (and) C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate (and) Polyhydroxystearic Acid (and) Isostearic Acid);
[0165] - those sold under the name Daitopersion Zn-60VA® by Daito Kasei (dispersions in C9-C12alkane with a dispersant);
[0166] - those sold under the name SPD-Z5® by Shin-Etsu (ZnO coated with silicone-grafted acrylic polymer, dispersed in cyclodimethylsiloxane).
[0167] The uncoated cerium oxide pigments may be, for example, those sold under the name Rhodigard® W185 by Solvay.
[0168] Mention may also be made of mixtures of metal oxides, especially of titanium dioxide and cerium dioxide, including the mixture in equal weights of titanium dioxide and cerium dioxide, coated in silica, and also the mixture of titanium dioxide and zinc dioxide coated with alumina, silica and silicone or coated with alumina, silica and glycerol.
[0169] When the composition in accordance with the invention comprises inorganic UV-screening agents, the coated or uncoated titanium oxide pigments are particularly preferred.
[0170] According to a particular embodiment, the total amount of additional UV-screening agents present in the composition is less than or equal to 20% by weight, preferably less than or equal to 10% by weight, and even more preferentially less than or equal to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0171] According to a preferred embodiment, the total amount of additional UV-screening agents present in the composition is between 0.1% and 20% by weight, preferably between 0.5% and 10% by weight, and even more preferentially between 1% and 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0172] According to a particular embodiment, the only UV-screening agents present in the composition are water-soluble organic screening agents and the merocyanines of formula (3).
[0173] For the purposes of the present invention, the term “total amount of additional UV-screening agents” means the sum of the concentrations of active material of each of the UV-screening agents present in the composition other than the merocyanines of formula (3) and the water-soluble organic UV-screening agents as described above.AQUEOUS PHASE
[0174] The composition in accordance with the invention comprises at least one aqueous phase.
[0175] The aqueous phase contains water and optionally other water-soluble or water-miscible organic solvents.
[0176] An aqueous phase which is suitable for the invention can comprise, for example, a water chosen from a natural spring water, such as water from La Roche-Posay, water from Vittel, water from Saint-Gervais Mont-Blanc or waters from Vichy, or a floral water.
[0177] The aqueous phase may comprise at least one other organic solvent that is soluble in water, at 25°C, chosen, for example, from:
[0178] - C1-C4monoalkanols. The term “C1-C4monoalkanol” means any linear or branched saturated alkane compound containing from 1 to 4 carbon atoms and only one hydroxyl (OH) function. The C1-C4monoalkanol(s) present in the compositions of the invention may be chosen from methanol, ethanol, propanol, isopropanol and butanol, or mixtures thereof. Ethanol will be chosen more particularly;
[0179] - polyols having, in particular, from 2 to 20 carbon atoms, such as glycerol, diglycerol, propylene glycol, isoprene glycol, dipropylene glycol, butylene glycol, hexylene glycol, caprylyl glycol, 1,3-propanediol, pentylene glycol, ethylene glycol or diethylene glycol, 2-ethoxyethanol, diethylene glycol monomethyl ether, triethylene glycol monomethyl ether, sorbitol, simple sugars, water-soluble polyalkylene glycols; preferably polyols having from 2 to 8 carbon atoms; and mixtures thereof.
[0180] According to one particular embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one C1-C4monoalkanol, and more particularly ethanol.
[0181] The monoalkanols are generally present in concentrations ranging from 0.2% to 90% by weight, more preferentially from 0.5% to 50% and preferably from 1% to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0182] According to another particular embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one polyol, notably as described above. Preferably, it comprises at least 1% by weight of polyol(s) relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably at least 5% by weight of polyol(s) relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably from 5% to 20% by weight, preferably from 10% to 15% by weight.
[0183] Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises, as polyol, glycerol, butylene glycol, propylene glycol or dipropylene glycol, and mixtures thereof.
[0184] The composition in accordance with the invention is aqueous. For the purposes of the present invention, the term “aqueous” refers to a composition having an amount of fatty phase of less than 10% by weight, preferably less than 5% by weight and even more preferentially less than 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Advantageously, the composition in accordance with the invention is essentially aqueous, i.e. it does not contain any fatty phase.
[0185] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the composition has a pH of between 3 and 8. Advantageously, the pH of the composition is between 5 and 7.5.
[0186] According to a particular embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the invention may comprise an acidifying agent and / or a basifying agent.
[0187] Among the acidifying agents, examples that may be mentioned include mineral or organic acids, for instance hydrochloric acid, orthophosphoric acid, sulfuric acid, carboxylic acids, for instance acetic acid, tartaric acid, citric acid or lactic acid, and sulfonic acids.
[0188] Among the basifying agents, examples that may be mentioned include aqueous ammonia, alkali metal carbonates, alkanolamines, such as mono-, di- and triethanolamines and derivatives thereof, sodium hydroxide or potassium hydroxide.
[0189] Preferably, the cosmetic composition comprises one or more basifying agents chosen from alkanolamines, in particular triethanolamine, sodium hydroxide and potassium hydroxide.HYDROPHILIC GELLING AGENTS
[0190] The composition according to the invention may comprise at least one hydrophilic gelling agent (or hydrophilic thickener).
[0191] For the purposes of the present invention, the term “hydrophilic gelling agent” (or “hydrophilic thickener”) means a compound that is capable of gelling the aqueous phase of the compositions according to the invention.
[0192] In particular, in the context of the present patent application, the term “thickener” notably means an agent for increasing at least 10-fold, preferably at least 15-fold, preferably at least 20-fold, the viscosity of a mixture comprising said agent at 1% by weight, triethanolamine at 0.9% by weight and water, at a temperature of 25°C.
[0193] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the hydrophilic gelling agent(s) is (are) polymeric.
[0194] The hydrophilic gelling agent(s) may be chosen from anionic synthetic thickening polymers, non-ionic thickening polysaccharides, sulfate-based thickening polysaccharides and carboxylic branched thickening polysaccharides.
[0195] The term “carboxylic” means comprising at least one carboxylic acid function.
[0196] Preferably, the composition according to the invention is substantially free (i.e. contains less than 0.4%, preferably less than 0.3%, preferably less than 0.2% and better still less than 0.1% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition), preferably is completely free, thickener chosen from clays, mica, modified starches such as phosphate starches, and gellan gum.Anionic synthetic thickening polymers
[0197] The composition according to the invention may comprise an anionic synthetic thickening polymer.
[0198] Preferably, the anionic synthetic thickening polymer is non-aromatic; this means that it does not contain any aromatic monomers.
[0199] Among the anionic synthetic thickening polymers that may be used, mention may be made of crosslinked homopolymers or copolymers of acrylic or methacrylic acid, crosslinked or non-crosslinked 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid homopolymers, or salts thereof, and copolymers of acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid or salts thereof and of one or more crosslinked or non-crosslinked non-ionic monomers, alone or as mixtures.
[0200] A first family of thickening polymers that is suitable for use is represented by crosslinked acrylic acid homopolymers. Among the homopolymers of this type, mention may be made of those crosslinked with an allyl alcohol ether of the sugar series, such as, for example, the products sold under the names Carbopol 980, 981, 954, 2984 and 5984 by Lubrizol or the products sold under the names Synthalen M and Synthalen K by 3V.
[0201] Such acrylic homopolymers may be present in the composition in a particulate or non-particulate form. When they are present in a particulate form, their mean size in the hydrated state is preferably less than or equal to 10 µm and even more preferentially less than or equal to 5 µm. Their mean size in the dry or non-hydrated state is preferably less than or equal to 2 µm, preferably less than or equal to 1 µm.
[0202] Preferably, the acrylic acid homopolymer is present in non-particulate form.
[0203] Preferably, use is made of an at least partially neutralized acrylic acid homopolymer. The homopolymer used according to the invention is chosen in particular from sodium polyacrylates and potassium polyacrylates. Sodium polyacrylate is preferably used.
[0204] As regards these acrylic polymers already neutralized before use, examples that may be mentioned include:
[0205] - sodium polyacrylates such as those sold under the name Cosmedia SP® containing 90% solids and 10% water, or Cosmedia SPL® as an inverse emulsion containing about 60% dry active material, an oil (hydrogenated polydecene) and a surfactant (PPG-5 laureth-5), both sold by BASF;
[0206] - partially neutralized sodium polyacrylates, notably in the form of an inverse emulsion comprising at least one polar oil, for example the product sold under the name Luvigel® EM by BASF; and
[0207] - mixtures thereof.
[0208] Use may also be made of an acrylic acid polymer that is not neutralized beforehand, which is then partially or totally neutralized before use by any suitable means and notably by adding any base such as sodium hydroxide, potassium hydroxide or an alkanolamine such as triethanolamine. Sodium polyacrylates are thus notably obtained. Potassium polyacrylates are also suitable for use in the present invention.
[0209] A second family of thickening polymers that is suitable for use is represented by crosslinked copolymers of (meth)acrylic acid and of a C1-C30alkyl acrylate.
[0210] Preferably, these copolymers are crosslinked copolymers of (meth)acrylic acid and of a C1-C6alkyl acrylate.
[0211] The (meth)acrylic acid monomer is preferably present in amounts ranging from 20% to 80% by weight, more particularly from 25% to 70% by weight and even more particularly from 35% to 60% by weight relative to the total weight of the copolymer.
[0212] The C1-C6alkyl acrylate monomer is preferably present in amounts ranging from 15% to 80% by weight, more particularly from 25% to 75% by weight and even more particularly from 40% to 65% by weight relative to the total weight of the copolymer. Among these monomers, mention may be made of methyl acrylate, ethyl acrylate, n-butyl acrylate, 2-hydroxyethyl acrylate, styrene, acrylamide, N,N-dimethylacrylamide, tert-butylacrylamide, methyl methacrylate, ethyl methacrylate, n-butyl methacrylate and 2-hydroxyethyl methacrylate.
[0213] Such a copolymer is typically partially or totally crosslinked with at least one conventional crosslinking agent. The crosslinking agents are notably polyunsaturated compounds. These compounds are notably polyalkenyl ethers of sucrose or of polyols, diallyl phthalates, divinylbenzene, allyl (meth)acrylate, ethylene glycol di(meth)acrylate, methylenebisacrylamide, trimethylolpropane tri(meth)acrylate, diallyl itaconate, diallyl fumarate, diallyl maleate, zinc (meth)acrylate, and castor oil or polyol derivatives manufactured from unsaturated carboxylic acids. As crosslinking agent, use may also be made of unsaturated monomeric compounds including a reactive group that is capable of reacting with an unsaturation to form a crosslinked copolymer. The content of crosslinking agent generally ranges from 0.01% to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.03% to 3% by weight and even more particularly from 0.05% to 1% by weight relative to the total weight of the copolymer.
[0214] The preferred crosslinked copolymer of (meth)acrylic acid and of a C1-C6alkyl acrylate according to the invention is chosen from crosslinked copolymers of methacrylic acid and of a C1-C6alkyl acrylate, crosslinked copolymers of acrylic acid and of a C1-C6alkyl acrylate, and more particularly a crosslinked copolymer of methacrylic acid and of ethyl acrylate.
[0215] According to a particularly preferred form, the copolymer of the invention may notably be in the form of a dispersion in water. The number-average size of the copolymer particles in the dispersion is generally between 10 and 500 nm, preferably between 20 and 200 nm and more preferentially from 50 to 150 nm.
[0216] Among the crosslinked copolymers of (meth)acrylic acid and of a C1-C6alkyl acrylate, mention may be made of the product sold under the name Viscoatex 538C by Coatex, which is a crosslinked copolymer of (meth)acrylic acid and of a C1-C4ethyl acrylate as an aqueous dispersion containing 38% active material, or the product sold under the name Aculyn 33 by Röhm & Haas, which is a crosslinked copolymer of acrylic acid and of ethyl acrylate as an aqueous dispersion containing 28% active material. Mention may more particularly be made of the crosslinked methacrylic acid / ethyl acrylate copolymer in the form of an aqueous 30% dispersion manufactured and sold under the name Carbopol Aqua SF-1 by Lubrizol.
[0217] A third family of suitable thickening polymers is represented by crosslinked or non-crosslinked 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid (AMPS®) homopolymers, or salts thereof. These homopolymers may be crosslinked or non-crosslinked.
[0218] Such a homopolymer may have a number-average molecular weight ranging from 1000 to 20 000 000 g / mol, preferably ranging from 20 000 to 5 000 000 and even more preferentially from 100 000 to 1 500 000 g / mol.
[0219] More particularly, use is made of 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid, and also partially or totally neutralized forms thereof.
[0220] When the polymers are crosslinked, the crosslinking agents may be chosen from the polyolefinically unsaturated compounds commonly used for crosslinking polymers obtained by radical polymerization. Examples of crosslinking agents that may be mentioned include divinylbenzene, diallyl ether, dipropylene glycol diallyl ether, polyglycol diallyl ethers, triethylene glycol divinyl ether, hydroquinone diallyl ether, ethylene glycol or tetraethylene glycol di(meth)acrylate, trimethylolpropane triacrylate, methylenebisacrylamide, methylenebismethacrylamide, triallylamine, triallyl cyanurate, diallyl maleate, tetraallylethylenediamine, tetraallyloxyethane, trimethylolpropane diallyl ether, allyl (meth)acrylate, allylic ethers of alcohols of the sugar series, or other allyl or vinyl ethers of polyfunctional alcohols, and also the allylic esters of phosphoric and / or vinylphosphonic acid derivatives, or mixtures of these compounds.
[0221] According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the crosslinking agent is chosen from methylenebisacrylamide, allyl methacrylate and trimethylolpropane triacrylate (TMPTA). The degree of crosslinking generally ranges from 0.01 mol% to 10 mol% and more particularly from 0.2 mol% to 2 mol% relative to the polymer.
[0222] The homopolymer includes only monomers bearing a sulfonic group and, if it is crosslinked, one or more crosslinking agents.
[0223] The preferred 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid homopolymers are generally characterized in that they comprise, randomly distributed:
[0224] a) from 90% to 99.9% by weight of units of general formula (1) below: (1)
[0225] in which X+denotes a proton, an alkali metal cation, an alkaline-earth metal cation or the ammonium ion, not more than 10 mol% of the cations X+possibly being protons H+;
[0226] b) from 0.01% to 10% by weight of crosslinking units originating from at least one monomer containing at least two olefinic double bonds; the weight proportions being defined relative to the total weight of the polymer.
[0227] The homopolymers according to the invention that are more particularly preferred comprise from 98% to 99.5% by weight of units of formula (1) and from 0.2% to 2% by weight of crosslinking units.
[0228] Polymers of this type that may notably be mentioned include the crosslinked and neutralized 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid homopolymer sold by Clariant under the trade name Hostacerin AMPS® (CTFA name: ammonium polyacryldimethyltauramide).
[0229] The polymer may also be an amphiphilic homopolymer (or hydrophobic modified homopolymer) chosen from random amphiphilic 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid polymers modified by reaction with a C6-C22n-monoalkylamine or di-n-alkylamine, such as those described in WO-A-00 / 31154, which are grafted homopolymers.
[0230] A fourth family of suitable thickening polymers is represented by copolymers of acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid or salts thereof and of one or more non-ionic monomers. They may be crosslinked or non-crosslinked.
[0231] When the polymers are crosslinked, the crosslinking agents may be chosen from the polyolefinically unsaturated compounds commonly used for crosslinking polymers obtained by radical polymerization. Such agents are described above.
[0232] According to one preferred embodiment of the invention, the crosslinking agent is chosen from methylenebisacrylamide, allyl methacrylate and trimethylolpropane triacrylate (TMPTA). The degree of crosslinking generally ranges from 0.01 mol% to 10 mol% and more particularly from 0.2 mol% to 2 mol% relative to the polymer.
[0233] The copolymers according to the invention are obtained from AMPS® and from one or more hydrophilic or hydrophobic ethylenically unsaturated non-ionic monomers and, if they are crosslinked, one or more crosslinking agents such as those defined above.
[0234] The 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid monomer of the copolymer contained in the composition in accordance with the invention is in free form or is partially or totally neutralized with a mineral base (sodium hydroxide, potassium hydroxide or aqueous ammonia) or an organic base, such as mono-, di- or triethanolamine, an aminomethylpropanediol, N-methylglucamine, basic amino acids, such as arginine and lysine, and also a mixture of these compounds.
[0235] Preferably, the 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropane sulfonic acid monomer is partially or totally salified in the form of the ammonium or sodium salt.
[0236] Preferably, the 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropane sulfonic acid monomer is totally salified, preferably in the form of the ammonium or sodium salt.
[0237] The AMPS® copolymers contain one or more non-ionic monomers chosen from water-soluble ethylenically unsaturated monomers, hydrophobic monomers, or mixtures thereof.
[0238] Among the non-ionic water-soluble monomers, examples that may be mentioned include:
[0239] - (meth)acrylamide,
[0240] - N-vinylacetamide and N-methyl-N-vinylacetamide,
[0241] - N-vinylformamide and N-methyl-N-vinylformamide,
[0242] - maleic anhydride,
[0243] - vinylamine,
[0244] - N-vinyllactams including a cyclic alkyl group containing from 4 to 9 carbon atoms, such as N-vinylpyrrolidone, N-butyrolactam and N-vinylcaprolactam,
[0245] - vinyl alcohol of formula CH2=CHOH,
[0246] - the water-soluble vinyl monomers of formula (2) below: (2)
[0247] in which:
[0248] - R15is chosen from H, -CH3, -C2H5and -C3H7,
[0249] - X2is chosen from alkyl oxides of the type -OR16where R16is a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon-based radical containing from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, optionally substituted with a halogen atom (iodine, bromine, chlorine or fluorine); a hydroxyl (-OH) group; ether.
[0250] Mention is made, for example, of glycidyl (meth)acrylate, hydroxyethyl (meth)acrylate, and (meth)acrylates of ethylene glycol, of diethylene glycol or of polyalkylene glycol.
[0251] Preferably, the water-soluble monomer is chosen from acrylamide, vinylpyrrolidone and hydroxyalkyl (meth)acrylates, more particularly vinylpyrrolidone.
[0252] As copolymers of AMPS® in accordance with the invention with hydrophilic monomers, examples that may be mentioned include:
[0253] - copolymers of acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid and of vinylpyrrolidone, notably such as the commercial product Aristoflex AVC sold by Clariant,
[0254] - crosslinked acrylamide / sodium acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonate copolymers, such as that used in the commercial product Sepigel 305® (INCI name: Polyacrylamide / C13-C14isoparaffin / laureth-7) or that used in the commercial product sold under the name Simulgel 600® (INCI name: Acrylamide / Sodium Acryloyldimethyltaurate / Isohexadecane / Polysorbate-80) by SEPPIC;
[0255] - copolymers of AMPS® and of hydroxyethyl acrylate, for instance the sodium AMPS® / hydroxyethyl acrylate copolymer, such as that used in the commercial product sold under the name Simulgel NS® by SEPPIC (INCI name: Hydroxyethyl acrylate / Sodium Acryloyldimethyltaurate copolymer (and) Squalane (and) Polysorbate 60);
[0256] - hydrophobically modified AMPS® copolymers such as the copolymer known under the INCI name: Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate / Steareth-25 Methacrylate Crosspolymer, sold under the trade name Aristoflex HMS by Clariant.
[0257] The concentration of anionic synthetic thickening polymer (i.e. of active material) generally ranges from 0.05% to 35% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably from 0.1% to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.2% to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.25% to 5% by weight and even more particularly from 0.3% to 3% by weight.Thickening polysaccharides
[0258] The composition according to the invention may also comprise a thickening polymer chosen from non-ionic thickening polysaccharides, sulfate-based thickening polysaccharides and carboxylic branched thickening polysaccharides.
[0259] Among the non-ionic thickening polysaccharides, mention may notably be made of non-ionic cellulose-based thickening polysaccharides.
[0260] Preferably, the celluloses that may be used in the compositions according to the present invention are chosen from celluloses not including a hydrophobic chain and non-ionic celluloses including one or more hydrophobic chains.
[0261] Preferably, the celluloses used according to the invention are cellulose ethers. Even more preferentially, these celluloses are non-ionic hydroxyalkylcelluloses and in particular hydroxyethylcelluloses or hydroxypropylcelluloses. They may or may not contain a fatty chain. Among the non-ionic celluloses not including a fatty chain, mention may be made of hydroxyethylcelluloses, hydroxypropylcelluloses, and hydroxypropylmethylcelluloses. A hydroxyethylcellulose that is particularly suitable for use is Cellosize HEC QP-4400 H sold by Amerchol (INCI name: Hydroxyethylcellulose).
[0262] The celluloses modified with groups including one or more non-ionic fatty chains that can be used according to the present invention are notably:
[0263] - non-ionic hydroxyethylcelluloses modified with groups including at least one fatty chain such as alkyl, arylalkyl or alkylaryl groups, or mixtures thereof, and in which the alkyl groups are preferably C8-C22groups, such as the product Natrosol Plus Grade 330 CS® (C16alkyls) sold by Ashland, corresponding to the INCI name Cetylhydroxyethylcellulose, or the product Bermocoll EHM 100® sold by AkzoNobel,
[0264] - those modified with alkylphenyl polyalkylene glycol ether groups, such as the product Amercell Polymer HM-1500® (nonylphenyl polyethylene glycol (15) ether) sold by Amerchol, corresponding to the INCI name Nonoxynyl hydroxyethylcellulose.
[0265] Among the sulfate-based thickening polysaccharides, mention may notably be made of rhamnose-free sulfate-based polysaccharides. These sulfate-based polysaccharides are preferably carrageenans.
[0266] Carrageenans are polysaccharides constituting the cell walls of various red algae (Rhodophyceae) belonging to the Gigartinacae, Hypneaceae, Furcellariaceae and Polyideaceae families. They include long galactan chains, anionic polyelectrolytes. Their molecular mass may be greater than 106. These linear polymers, formed with disaccharide units, are composed of two D-galactopyranose units linked alternately with α- and β- bonds. They are highly sulfated polysaccharides (20-50%) and the α-D-galactopyranosyl residues may be in 3’,6’-anhydro form.
[0267] Initially, carrageenans were subdivided into two families according to their solubility in potassium chloride (KCl). The fractions soluble in KCl were designated by the prefix “kappa”, whereas the term “lambda” was reserved for the insoluble fractions. Later, the classifications were based on the number and position of the sulfate groups and also on the presence of a 3’,6’-anhydro bridge on the β-D-galactopyranosyl residues. This resulted in the four major families: κ, λ, β and ω.
[0268] The various types of carrageenans do not exist in pure form, but in the form of hybrids. Thus, in the natural state, κ- and ί-carrageenans are in a kappa-iota hybrid form, but one of the two structures may dominate over the other. The κ-ί hybrid state of a structure may be elucidated by using specific enzymes, which make it possible to enrich or reduce the content of one of the two forms. Carrageenans may coexist with their precursors. Carrageenans of different original families may coexist in a hybrid structure.
[0269] Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises one or more sulfate-based polysaccharides of lambda carrageenan type. The sulfate-based polysaccharide of lambda carrageenan type may or may not be chemically modified. Preferably, the sulfate-based polysaccharide of lambda carrageenan type is not chemically modified. Preferably, the molecular weight (MW) of the polysaccharide is between 100 000 and 1 000 000 and more preferentially between 250 000 and 800 000. As sulfate-based polysaccharide of lambda carrageenan type, mention may be made of Satiagum UTC 10 or Satiagum VPC 410 from Cargill and Welgeenan ED 1039 from Eurogum.
[0270] Among the carboxylic branched thickening polysaccharides, mention may notably be made of anionic branched polysaccharides based on glucose, mannose, acetylated mannose, pyruvic acid and glucuronic acid. Such a polysaccharide is preferably xanthan.
[0271] Xanthan is a heteropolysaccharide produced on an industrial scale by the aerobic fermentation of the bacteriumXanthomonas campestris. Its structure is constituted of a main chain of β(1,4)-linked β-D-glucoses, similar to cellulose. One glucose molecule in two bears a trisaccharide side chain composed of an α-D-mannose, a β-D-glucuronic acid and a terminal β-D-mannose. The internal mannose residue is generally acetylated on carbon 6. About 30% of the terminal mannose residues bear a pyruvate group linked in chelated form between carbons 4 and 6. The charged pyruvic acids and glucuronic acids are ionizable, and are thus responsible for the anionic nature of xanthan (negative charge down to a pH equal to 1). The content of the pyruvate and acetate residues varies according to the bacterial strain, the fermentation process, the conditions after fermentation and the purification steps. These groups may be neutralized in commercial products with Na+, K+or Ca2+ions (Satia company, 1986). The neutralized form may be converted into the acid form by ion exchange or by dialysis of an acidic solution.
[0272] Xanthan gums have a molecular weight of between 1 000 000 and 50 000 000 and a viscosity of between 0.6 and 1.65 Pa.s for an aqueous composition containing 1% of xanthan gum (measured at 25°C on a Brookfield viscometer of LVT type at 60 rpm).
[0273] Xanthan gums are represented, for example, by the products sold under the name Rhodicare® by PMC Ouvrie, under the name Satiaxane™ by Cargill Texturizing Solutions (for the food, cosmetic and pharmaceutical industries), under the name Novaxan™ by ADM, and under the names Kelzan® and Keltrol® by CP-Kelco.
[0274] The concentration of thickening polysaccharides used in the compositions according to the present invention ranges from 0.01% to 20%, preferably from 0.02% to 10%, preferably from 0.03% to 8%, preferably from 0.05% to 5% and even more preferably from 0.1% to 3% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0275] According to a preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises a thickener chosen from crosslinked acrylic acid homopolymers, crosslinked copolymers of (meth)acrylic acid and of a C1-C6alkyl acrylate, copolymers of acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid with one or more non-ionic monomers, crosslinked and preferably neutralized 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid homopolymers, hydroxyethylcelluloses, carrageenans and xanthan gum.
[0276] According to a preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises a thickener chosen from crosslinked acrylic acid homopolymers, crosslinked and preferably neutralized 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid homopolymers, hydroxyethylcelluloses, carrageenans and xanthan gum.
[0277] The composition according to the invention may also comprise a mixture of several thickening polymers, typically of at least two or more thickening polymers. The composition may typically comprise at least one anionic synthetic thickening polymer and at least one thickener chosen from non-ionic thickening polysaccharides, sulfate-based thickening polysaccharides, carboxylic branched thickening polysaccharides, and mixtures thereof.
[0278] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the total concentration of thickener(s) used in the composition ranges from 0.01% to 50%, preferably from 0.1% to 20%, preferably from 0.2% to 10%, preferably from 0.3% to 8% and even more preferably from 0.5% to 3% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.ADDITIVES
[0279] The composition in accordance with the present invention may also comprise conventional cosmetic adjuvants chosen in particular from softeners, humectants, opacifiers, stabilizers, emollients, silicones, antifoams, fragrances, preserving agents, anionic, cationic, non-ionic, zwitterionic or amphoteric surfactants, active agents, fillers, polymers, propellants, or any other ingredient commonly used in the cosmetic and / or dermatological field.
[0280] Among the active agents for caring for keratin materials such as the skin, the lips, the scalp, the hair, the eyelashes or the nails, mention may be made, for example, of vitamins and derivatives or precursors thereof, alone or as mixtures; antioxidants; free-radical scavengers; anti-pollutants; self-tanning agents; anti-glycation agents; calmatives; deodorant agents; essential oils; NO-synthase inhibitors; agents for stimulating the synthesis of dermal or epidermal macromolecules and / or for preventing degradation thereof; agents for stimulating fibroblast proliferation; agents for stimulating keratinocyte proliferation; muscle relaxants; refreshing agents; tensioning agents; mattifying agents; depigmenting agents; propigmenting agents; keratolytic agents; desquamating agents; moisturizers; anti-inflammatories; antimicrobials; slimming agents; agents which act on cell energy metabolism; insect repellents; substance P antagonists or CRGP antagonists; agents for preventing hair loss; antiwrinkle agents; anti-ageing agents.
[0281] A person skilled in the art will select said active agent(s) as a function of the effect desired on the skin, the hair, the eyelashes, the eyebrows and the nails.
[0282] Of course, a person skilled in the art will take care to choose the abovementioned optional additional compound or compounds and / or their amounts so that the advantageous properties intrinsically attached to the compositions in accordance with the invention are not, or not substantially, detrimentally affected by the envisaged addition or additions.PRESENTATION FORMS
[0283] The compositions in accordance with the invention are aqueous, that is to say they contain at least one aqueous phase.
[0284] The compositions in accordance with the invention are in aqueous form, that is to say that they comprise an amount of fatty phase of less than 10% by weight, preferably less than 5% by weight and even more preferentially less than 1% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Advantageously, the composition in accordance with the invention is essentially aqueous, i.e. it does not contain any fatty phase.
[0285] The compositions according to the invention may be in the form of an aqueous solution or an aqueous gel. According to a preferred embodiment, the composition is in the form of an aqueous gel.
[0286] The compositions according to the invention find their application in a large number of treatments, notably cosmetic treatments, for the skin, the lips and the hair, including the scalp, notably for protecting and / or caring for the skin, the lips and / or the hair, and / or for making up the skin and / or the lips.
[0287] Another subject of the present invention is constituted of the use of the compositions according to the invention as defined above for the manufacture of products for the cosmetic treatment of the skin, the lips, the nails, the hair, the eyelashes, the eyebrows and / or the scalp, notably care products, antisun products and makeup products.
[0288] Another subject of the present invention is constituted of a non-therapeutic cosmetic process for caring for and / or making up a keratin material, which consists in applying, to the surface of said keratin material, at least one composition according to the invention as defined above.
[0289] Another subject of the invention is constituted of the use of at least one hydrophilic organic UV-screening agent to solubilize a merocyanine of formula (3) as defined above.
[0290] According to the invention, the water-soluble organic UV-screening agent or agents make it possible to solubilize the merocyanines in accordance with the invention in the aqueous phase.EXAMPLES
[0291] The present invention will now be described more specifically by means of examples, which do not in any way limit the scope of the invention. However, the examples make it possible to support specific features, variants and preferred embodiments of the invention.
[0292] A / Examples of synthesis of merocyanines of formula (3)Example A1: Preparation of compound (14)
[0293]
[0294] 122.23 g of 3-[(3-methoxypropyl)amino]-2-cyclohexen-1-one are alkylated with dimethyl sulfate or alternatively with diethyl sulfate and treated with 75.45 g of ethyl cyanoacetate in approximately equimolar proportions in the presence of a base and optionally of a solvent.
[0295] The base / solvent combinations indicated in the following table are used.
[0296] ExampleBaseSolventExample A1.1DBU (1,8-diazabicyclo[5.4.0]undec-7-ene)dimethylacetamideExample A1.2triethylamineisopropanolExample A1.33-methoxypropylamineisopropanolExample A1.43-methoxypropylaminetert-amyl alcoholExample A1.53-methoxypropylaminetolueneExample A1.63-methoxypropylaminedimethylformamideExample A1.73-methoxypropylamineno solventExample A1.8N-morpholineisopropanol
[0297] The completion of the alkylation reaction can be monitored for example by methods such as TLC, GC or HPLC.
[0298] 162.30 g of compound (14) obtained in the form of a brown oil.
[0299] After crystallization, the product is obtained in the form of yellowish crystals.
[0300] Melting point: 92.7°C.Example A2: Preparation of compound (15)
[0301]
[0302] 101.00 g of 3-[(3-methoxypropyl)amino]-2-cyclohexen-1-one are alkylated with dimethyl sulfate or alternatively with diethyl sulfate and treated with 86.00 g of 2-cyano-N-(3-methoxypropyl)acetamide in approximately equimolar proportions in the presence of a base and optionally of a solvent.
[0303] The base / solvent combinations indicated in the following table are used.
[0304] ExampleBaseSolventExample A2.1DBU (1,8-diazabicyclo[5.4.0]undec-7-ene)dimethylacetamideExample A2.2triethylamineisopropanolExample A2.33-methoxypropylamineisopropanolExample A2.43-methoxypropylaminetert-amyl alcoholExample A2.53-methoxypropylaminetolueneExample A2.63-methoxypropylaminedimethylformamideExample A2.73-methoxypropylamineno solvent
[0305] The crude product (15) is obtained in the form of a dark brown oil.
[0306] After silica gel column chromatography (eluent: 99 / 1 toluene / methanol), 81.8 g of product are obtained in the form of yellowish crystals.
[0307] Melting point: 84.7-85.3°C.Example A3: Preparation of compound (27)
[0308]
[0309] 13.09 g of 3-[(3-methoxypropyl)amino]-2-cyclohexen-1-one are alkylated with dimethyl sulfate or alternatively with diethyl sulfate and treated with 10.12 g of isobutyl cyanoacetate in the presence of a base and optionally of a solvent.
[0310] The base / solvent combinations indicated in the following table are used.
[0311] ExampleBaseSolventExample A3.1DBU (1,8-diazabicyclo[5.4.0]undec-7-ene)dimethylacetamideExample A3.2triethylamineisopropanolExample A3.33-methoxypropylamineisopropanolExample A3.4N-methylmorpholinetert-amyl alcoholExample A3.53-methoxypropylaminetolueneExample A3.63-methoxypropylaminedimethylformamideExample A3.73-methoxypropylamineno solvent
[0312] 15.97 g of crude product (27) are obtained in the form of a dark brown oil.
[0313] After silica gel column chromatography (eluent: toluene / acetone), 13.46 g of product are obtained in the form of yellowish crystals.
[0314] Melting point: 96.3°C.Example A4: Preparation of compound (25)
[0315]
[0316] 148.4 g of 3-[(3-methoxypropyl)amino]-2-cyclohexen-1-one are alkylated with dimethyl sulfate or alternatively with diethyl sulfate and treated with 130.00 g of 2-ethoxyethyl cyanoacetate in the presence of an organic base and of a solvent.
[0317] The base / solvent combinations indicated in the table below are used.
[0318] ExampleBaseSolventExample A4.1DBU (1,8-diazabicyclo[5.4.0]undec-7-ene)dimethylacetamideExample A4.2triethylamineisopropanolExample A4.33-methoxypropylamineisopropanolExample A4.4N-methylmorpholinetert-amyl alcoholExample A4.53-methoxypropylaminetolueneExample A4.63-methoxypropylaminedimethylformamideExample A4.73-methoxypropylamineno solvent
[0319] B / Formulation examples
[0320] In these examples, the amounts of the ingredients present in the compositions are given as % by weight of active materials relative to the total weight of the composition.Protocol for evaluating solubility
[0321] The solubility of the merocyanine in the aqueous solutions can be evaluated macroscopically and / or microscopically. It is considered that the merocyanine is soluble if, at ambient temperature, the solution appears to the eye to be clear and translucent, and it does not exhibit any visible crystals under a white-light or polarized-light microscope (objective ×20 to ×40).
[0322] In the examples that follow, the solubility is evaluated macroscopically. It is evaluated at ambient temperature after 24 hours. During this time period, the solutions are stored at ambient temperature.
[0323] Example 1: solubilization in the presence of2-phenyl-1H-benzimidazole-5-sulfonic acid or a salt thereof
[0324] The following solutions were prepared according to the process below.
[0325] Ingredients1(outside the invention)2(outside the invention)3(invention)Compound (25)0.10.10.1Phenylbenzimidazole Sulfonic Acid(Eusolex® 232 from Merck)--1Triethanolamine-0.50.5 (qs pH 7)Water / Aquaqs 100qs 100qs 100Solubility at ambient temperature at 24 hoursinsolubleinsolublesoluble
[0326] The various ingredients are mixed in a beaker, and the mixture is kept stirring by means of a magnetic stirrer at ambient temperature for 2 hours. The preparations thus obtained are then stored at ambient temperature for 24 hours before macroscopic evaluation of the merocyanine solubility.
[0327] These results show that the water-insoluble compound 25 solubilizes in the presence of 2-phenyl-1H-benzimidazole-5-sulfonic acid and / or a salt thereof.
[0328] Example 2: solubilization in the presence of benzene-1,4-di(3-methylidene-10-camphorsulfonic acid) and / or a salt thereof
[0329] The following solutions were prepared according to the process below.
[0330] Ingredients4(outside the invention)5(outside the invention)6(invention)Compound (25)0.10.10.1Terephthalylidene Dicamphor Sulfonic Acid(Mexoryl SX® from Noveal)--1Triethanolamine-0.70.7 (qs pH 7)Water / Aquaqs 100qs 100qs 100Solubility at ambient temperature at 24 hoursinsolubleinsolublesoluble
[0331] The various ingredients are mixed in a beaker, and the mixture is kept stirring by means of a magnetic stirrer at ambient temperature for 2 hours. The preparations thus obtained are then stored at ambient temperature for 24 hours before macroscopic evaluation of the merocyanine solubility.
[0332] These results show that the water-insoluble compound 25 solubilizes in the presence of benzene-1,4-di(3-methylidene-10-camphorsulfonic acid) and / or a salt thereof.
[0333] Example 3: solubilization in the presence of 1,4-bis-benzimidazolyl-phenylene-3,3’,5,5’-tetrasulfonic acid and / or a salt thereof
[0334] The following solutions were prepared according to the process below.
[0335] Ingredients1(outside the invention)2(outside the invention)3(invention)Compound (25)0.10.10.1Disodium Phenyl Dibenzimidazole Tetrasulfonate(Neo Heliopan® AP from Symrise)--1Triethanolamine-0.50.5 (qs pH 7)Water / Aquaqs 100qs 100qs 100Solubility at ambient temperature at 24 hoursinsolubleinsolublesoluble
[0336] The various ingredients are mixed in a beaker, and the mixture is kept stirring by means of a magnetic stirrer at ambient temperature for 2 hours. The preparations thus obtained are then stored at ambient temperature for 24 hours before macroscopic evaluation of the merocyanine solubility.
[0337] These results show that the water-insoluble compound 25 solubilizes in the presence of 1,4-bis-benzimidazolylphenylen-3,3’,5,5’-tetrasulfonic acid and / or a salt thereof.Example 4: Transparent aqueous serum
[0338] The following composition is prepared.
[0339] PhaseCompositionPercentage by massA1Caprylyl glycol0.3A1Propanediol3A1Polysorbate 201A1PEG-810A1Methoxypropylamino Cyclohexenylidene Ethoxyethylcyanoacetate1A2Water / Aqua70.18A2Terephthalylidene Dicamphor Sulfonic Acid1A2Disodium Phenyl Dibenzimidazole Tetrasulfonate1A2Phenylbenzimidazole Sulfonic Acid1A2Triethanolamine (qs pH 7)1.52BDenat. alcohol10Mode of preparation
[0340] Phase A1 is prepared with magnetic stirring at 50°C and phase A2 is prepared with magnetic stirring at ambient temperature, then phase A2 is slowly added to phase A1 with stirring until a clear mixture is obtained. The mixture is allowed to return to ambient temperature and then phase B is added with stirring.
Claims
Aqueous cosmetic or dermatological composition comprising:a) at least one merocyanine corresponding to formula (3) below, and also the geometric isomer forms, notably the E / E- or E / Z- geometric isomer forms, thereof:in which:A is -O- or -NH-;R is a C1-C22alkyl group, a C2-C22alkenyl group, a C2-C22alkynyl group, a C3-C22cycloalkyl group or a C3-C22cycloalkenyl group, it being possible for said groups to be interrupted with one or more O;in an amount of less than 3% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition; andb) at least one water-soluble organic UV-screening agent.Composition according to Claim 1, in which the compound(s) of formula (3) are those in which A is -O-; R is a C1-C22alkyl, which may be interrupted with one or more O.Composition according to either one of Claims 1 and 2, in which the merocyanines of formula (3) are chosen from the following compounds, and also the E / E- or E / Z- geometric isomer forms thereof:14ethyl (2Z)-cyano{3-[(3-methoxypropyl)amino]cyclohex-2-en-1-ylidene}ethanoate15(2Z)-2-cyano-N-(3-methoxypropyl)-2-{3-[(3-methoxypropyl)amino]cyclohex-2-en-1-ylidene}ethanamide252-ethoxyethyl (2Z)-cyano{3-[(3-methoxypropyl)amino]cyclohex-2-en-1-ylidene}ethanoate272-methylpropyl (2Z)-cyano{3-[(3-methoxypropyl)amino]cyclohex-2-en-1-ylidene}ethanoate292-butoxyethyl (2Z)-cyano{3-[(3-methoxypropyl)amino]cyclohex-2-en-1-ylidene}ethanoate313-methoxypropyl (2Z)-cyano{3-[(3-methoxypropyl)amino]cyclohex-2-en-1-ylidene}ethanoate373-ethoxypropyl (2Z)-cyano{3-[(3-methoxypropyl)amino]cyclohex-2-en-1-ylidene}ethanoate[Corrected under Rule 26, 05.07.2024]Composition according to any one of Claims 1 to 3, in which the merocyanine of formula (3) is 2-ethoxyethyl (2Z)-cyano{3-[(3-methoxypropyl)amino]cyclohex-2-en-1-ylidene}ethanoate (25) in its E / Z- geometric configuration having the following structure:and / or in its E / E- geometric configuration having the following structure:.Composition according to any one of Claims 1 to 4, in which the amount of merocyanine corresponding to the following formula (3), and also the geometric isomer forms thereof, in particular E / E- or E / Z- geometric isomer forms thereof, is less than or equal to 2.5% by weight, preferably between 0.01% and 2.5% by weight, and even more preferentially between 0.5% and 1.5% of the total weight of the composition.Composition according to any one of Claims 1 to 5, in which the water-soluble organic UV-screening agent(s) is (are) chosen from benzene-2-phenyl-1H-benzimidazole-5-sulfonic acid (INCI name: Phenylbenzimidazole Sulfonic Acid); benzene-1,4-di(3-methylidene-10-camphorsulfonic acid) (INCI name: Terephthalylidene Dicamphor Sulfonic Acid); 1,4-bis-benzimidazolyl-phenylene-3,3’,5,5’-tetrasulfonic acid (INCI name: Disodium Phenyl Dibenzimidazole Tetrasulfonate); and salts thereof.Composition according to any one of Claims 1 to 6, in which the water-soluble organic UV-screening agent(s) is (are) present in a concentration ranging from 0.1% to 19% by weight, and preferentially from 0.5% to 12% by weight, and even better still from 3% to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.Composition according to any one of Claims 1 to 7, comprising at least one additional UV-screening agent chosen from lipophilic organic UV-screening agents, water-dispersible organic UV-screening agents and inorganic UV-screening agents, preferably chosen from water-dispersible organic UV-screening agents and inorganic UV-screening agents.Composition according to Claim 8, in which the lipophilic organic UV-screening agent(s) is (are) chosen from cinnamic compounds; anthranilate compounds; salicylic compounds; dibenzoylmethane compounds; benzylidenecamphor compounds; benzophenone compounds; β,β-diphenyl acrylate compounds; triazine compounds; benzotriazole compounds; benzalmalonate compounds; benzimidazole derivatives; imidazoline compounds; bis-benzoazolyl compounds; methylenebis(hydroxyphenylbenzotriazole) compounds; benzoxazole compounds; screening polymers and screening silicones; dimers derived from α-alkylstyrene; 4,4-diarylbutadiene compounds; and mixtures thereof; preferably salicylic compounds, dibenzoylmethane compounds, benzylidenecamphor compounds; benzophenone compounds; triazine compounds; benzotriazole compounds; and mixtures thereof.Composition according to either one of Claims 8 and 9, in which the water-dispersible organic UV-screening agent(s) is (are) chosen from methylene bis-benzotriazolyl tetramethylbutylphenol in the form of an aqueous dispersion of micronized particles having an average particle size which ranges from 0.01 to 5 μm, and more preferentially from 0.01 to 2 μm, and more particularly from 0.020 to 2 μm, with at least one alkylpolyglycoside surfactant having the structure CnH2n+1O(C6H10O5)xH in which n is an integer from 8 to 16 and x is the average degree of polymerization of the unit (C6H10O5) and ranges from 1.4 to 1.6; methylene bis-benzotriazolyl tetramethylbutylphenol in the form of an aqueous dispersion of micronized particles having an average particle size which ranges from 0.02 to 2 μm, and more preferentially from 0.01 to 1.5 μm, and more particularly from 0.02 to 1 μm, in the presence of at least one mono(C8-C20)alkyl ester of polyglycerol having a degree of glycerol polymerization of at least 5; bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine in its water-dispersible form and having the INCI name Bis-Ethylhexyloxyphenol Methoxyphenyl Triazine (and) Acrylates / C12-22 Alkyl Methacrylate Copolymer; symmetrical triazine screening agents substituted with naphthalenyl groups or polyphenyl groups used in micronized form (average particle size of 0.02 to 3 µm), and in particular in aqueous dispersion form, in particular 2,4,6-tris(biphenyl)triazine and 2,4,6-tris(ter-phenyl)triazine.Composition according to any one of Claims 8 to 10, in which the inorganic UV-screening agent(s) is (are) chosen from coated or uncoated titanium oxide pigments.Composition according to any one of Claims 1 to 11, in which the total amount of additional UV-screening agents is less than or equal to 20% by weight, preferably less than or equal to 10% by weight, and even more preferentially less than or equal to 5% by weight of the total weight of the composition.Composition according to any one of Claims 1 to 12, in which the only UV-screening agents present in the composition are the water-soluble organic screening agents and the merocyanines of formula (3).