Composition comprising a uv-screening agent, at least 1% by weight of ascorbic acid and a scleroglucan gum

Abstract

The present invention relates to a composition, and in particular a cosmetic or dermatological composition, comprising at least one UV-screening agent, at least 1% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition of ascorbic acid, and at least one scleroglucan gum, and also to the use of said composition in the cosmetic and dermatological fields, in particular for caring for and treating keratin materials, and in particular for caring for, protecting and / or making up the skin of the body or of the face, or for hair care.

Description

Composition comprising a UV-screening agent, at least 1% by weight of ascorbic acid and a scleroglucan gum

[0001] The present invention relates to a composition, and in particular a cosmetic or dermatological composition, comprising at least one UV-screening agent, at least 1% by weight, preferably at least 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, of ascorbic acid, and at least one scleroglucan gum, and also to the use of said composition in the cosmetic and dermatological fields, in particular for caring for and treating keratin materials, and in particular for caring for, protecting and / or making up the skin of the body or of the face, or for hair care.

[0002] It is known that light radiation with wavelengths of between 280 and 400 nm makes it possible to brown the human epidermis. Rays with wavelengths more particularly between 280 and 320 nm, known as UVB rays, cause skin erythema and burns which can be detrimental to the development of a natural tan.

[0003] For these reasons, and also for aesthetic reasons, there is a constant demand for means for controlling this natural tanning in order thus to control the colour of the skin: UVB radiation should thus be screened out. It is also known that UVA rays, with wavelengths of between 320 and 400 nm, which cause browning of the skin, are capable of bringing about a detrimental change in the latter, in particular in the case of sensitive skin or of skin continually exposed to solar radiation. UVA rays cause in particular a loss in the elasticity of the skin and the appearance of wrinkles, resulting in premature skin ageing.

[0004] Thus, for aesthetic and cosmetic reasons, for instance conservation of the skin’s natural elasticity, more and more people wish to control the effect of UVA rays on their skin. It is therefore desirable also to screen out UVA radiation.

[0005] For the purpose of protecting the skin and keratin materials against UV radiation, photoprotective compositions comprising organic screening agents that are active in the UVA range and in the UVB range are generally used.

[0006] Many cosmetic compositions intended for photoprotection of the skin have been proposed to date. These compositions generally contain, in an emulsified liquid support (preferably an oil-in-water emulsion), one or more organic molecules, capable of absorbing ultraviolet radiation, which are soluble in the oily and / or aqueous phase. The use of mineral pigments of a metal oxide, such as titanium dioxide, in such anti-sun compositions is increasingly frequent since these particles, which are invisible to the naked eye due to their small size, make it possible to increase the protection factor of the compositions containing same.

[0007] It is also known that high contents of screening agents are required to achieve high levels of screening efficiency.

[0008] However, high contents of UV-screening agents do not lend themselves to easy production of compositions having a stabilised and pleasant texture.

[0009] Thus, formulations with high screening power generally have uncomfortable or even unpleasant sensory aspects masking the freshness and comfort of the formulations. In particular, the weak point of photoprotective formulations with a high protection factor is often a strong greasy and tacky feel, and thus a lack of lightness of the textures obtained, but also a white appearance on application, thus not being invisible on the skin.

[0010] Moreover, the introduction of a high content of UV-screening agents generally brings about destabilisation problems. This instability may even occasionally cause phase separation of the emulsion and / or a loss of viscosity of the composition, making the formulation inefficient or even unusable.

[0011] One of the major drawbacks of these photoprotective emulsions containing organic screening agents and / or mineral screening agents lies in the difficulty in reconciling good product stability, easy product application, effective sun protection, and a fresh, non-tacky feel.

[0012] In addition, the daily photoprotection market is expanding rapidly. Increasing numbers of hybrid products providing skincare and SPF 15-20 protection are being launched, but the challenge remains of having higher SPF values, for example greater than or equal to 30, or even greater than or equal to 50, with a pleasant sensoriality for daily application. The skincare world remains very different from the photoprotection field in terms of consumer experience, thereby increasing the complexity of the formula development.

[0013] It is therefore sought to have care products with a high sun protection while at the same time keeping the sensory codes of skincare: Appearance, texture, consistency, sensory aspect.

[0014] In cosmetic applications, it is common to add ascorbic acid (vitamin C) as active principle which regenerates the skin, by virtue of the stimulation of the synthesis of collagen responsible for the firmness of the skin, or also as depigmenting agent, as this vitamin reduces the production of melanin responsible for liver spots. Ascorbic acid is also known for its antioxidant properties.

[0015] However, when ascorbic acid is introduced into an aqueous medium (such as emulsions or serums) at high contents (i.e., for example, greater than 1% by weight, preferably greater than 5% by weight), it is difficult to formulate it as it destabilises and changes drastically in colour.

[0016] This is why there are found, on the market, aqueous compositions of serum or solution type which comprise ascorbic acid in the form of a powder to be dissolved at the time of use. The disadvantage of products of this type is that the vitamin C ends up decomposing in the aqueous medium. These products thus lose their attractiveness as consumers prefer, for reasons of practicality, serums without prior handling, with the guarantee of stability of colour and without chemical decomposition.

[0017] In addition, the introduction of vitamin C in a high content into a cosmetic composition can lead to destabilisation of the formula; for example, when it is in the form of an emulsion, a phase separation with release of the oily phase can be observed.

[0018] Thus, there is a need for a cosmetic composition comprising UV-screening agents and ascorbic acid which is stable, i.e. which remains of the same colour as originally (white in general) and of the same texture, and which does not degrade the active ingredient, while at the same time exhibiting high photoprotective properties.

[0019] The applicant has discovered, surprisingly, that the presence of one or more scleroglucan gums in a screening composition makes it possible to introduce a high vitamin C content into this composition while at the same time retaining effective sun protection and a high stability of the composition.Disclosure of the invention

[0020] A subject of the present invention is thus a composition, and in particular a cosmetic or dermatological composition, comprising:

[0021] a) at least one UV-screening agent;

[0022] b) at least 1% by weight, preferably at least 5% by weight, of ascorbic acid relative to the total weight of the composition; and

[0023] c) at least one scleroglucan gum.

[0024] Against all expectations, the inventors have found that the use, in a cosmetic composition, of at least one UV-screening agent, of at least 1% by weight, preferably at least 5% by weight, of ascorbic acid and of at least one scleroglucan gum makes it possible to obtain a composition which is easy to spread, which has a high photoprotective power and which is nevertheless stabilised over time, and which in addition has good cosmetic properties, such as a refreshing capacity and a non-greasy and non-tacky texture.

[0025] A subject of the invention, according to another its aspect, is also the use of a composition as defined above for caring for keratin materials, in particular bodily and / or facial skin.

[0026] Another subject of the present invention, according to yet another of its aspects, is a non-therapeutic cosmetic process for making up and / or caring for keratin materials, in particular bodily and / or facial skin, comprising at least the application to said keratin materials of a cosmetic composition as defined previously.

[0027] The invention also relates to a non-therapeutic cosmetic process for limiting the darkening of the skin and / or improving the colour and / or uniformity of the complexion, comprising the application, to the surface of the keratin material, of at least one cosmetic composition as defined previously.

[0028] The invention also relates to a non-therapeutic cosmetic process for preventing and / or treating the signs of ageing of a keratin material, comprising the application, to the surface of the keratin material, of at least one cosmetic composition as defined previously.

[0029] The composition in accordance with the invention shows good stability. This stability can be evaluated macroscopically and / or microscopically, after storage for 24 hours, one week, one month, or two months, at ambient temperature (25°C), at 4°C, at 45°C or at 55°C. A stable composition generally maintains its comfort and its sensorial signature on application over time. More specifically, the stability of a composition can be evaluated qualitatively for example by the absence of any phase-separation phenomenon or appearance of crystals, or quantitatively through the monitoring of the change in parameters such as the viscosity or the pH.

[0030] According to the present invention, the term “stable over time” is understood to mean a composition which, after 1 month, preferably after 2 months, of storage at a temperature ranging from 4 to 45°C exhibits only few macroscopic changes, such as changes in colour, odour, viscosity or pH, and also small variations in microscopic appearance.

[0031] In the context of the invention, the screening efficiency is evaluated from the evaluation of SPF and UVAPF.

[0032] For the purposes of the present invention, the term “SPF” means: the sun protection factor, which measures the level of protection against UVB radiation. The SPF value corresponds to the ratio between the minimum time necessary to obtain a sunburn with a photoprotective composition and the minimum time necessary without a product. More specifically, the term “SPF” is defined in the articleA new substrate to measure sunscreen protection factors throughout the ultraviolet spectrum, J. Soc. Cosmet. Chem., 40, 127-133 (May / June 1989).

[0033] Evaluation of the SPF (Sun Protection Factor) can be carried out in vitro with a Labsphere® spectrophotometer. The plate is the material to which the photoprotective composition is applied. For this protocol, poly(methyl methacrylate) (PMMA) plates proved to be ideal. A particular protocol is being approved by ISO under the name ISO Committee Draft 23675.

[0034] The evaluation of the Sun Protection Factor (SPF) of the compositions can also be performed in vivo according to the ISO 24444: 2019 protocol “Cosmetics - Sun protection test methods - In vivo determination of the sun protection factor (SPF)”.

[0035] For the purposes of the present invention, the term “UVAPF” is understood to mean the index characterising the protection against UVA radiation. In particular, this index can be measured in vivo according to the “PPD” (Persistent Pigment Darkening) method, protocol ISO-24442: 2022, by skin colour observed 2 to 4 hours after exposure to UVA radiation. The protection against UVA radiation can also be evaluated in vitro using the Labsphere® spectrophotometer. The plate is the material to which the anti-sun composition is applied. For this protocol, poly(methyl methacrylate) (PMMA) plates proved to be ideal. The ISO 24443: 2021 protocol describes such an in vitro method.

[0036] Other characteristics, aspects and advantages of the invention will become apparent on reading the detailed description that follows.

[0037] The composition according to the invention is intended for topical application and thus contains a physiologically acceptable medium. The term “physiologically acceptable medium” means here a medium that is compatible with keratin materials.

[0038] In the context of the present invention, the term “keratin material” notably means the skin, scalp, keratin fibres, such as the eyelashes, eyebrows, head hair and bodily hair, nails, mucous membranes, such as the lips, and more particularly the skin and mucous membranes (body, face, area around the eyes, eyelids, lips, preferably body, face and lips).

[0039] In the text hereinbelow, unless otherwise indicated, the limits of a range of values are included in that range, notably in the expressions “between” and “ranging from ... to ...”.

[0040] Moreover, the expressions “at least one” and “at least” used in the present description are equivalent to the expressions “one or more” and “greater than or equal to”, respectively.

[0041] According to the invention, the term “preventing” or “prevention” means reducing the risk of occurrence or slowing down the occurrence of a given phenomenon, namely, according to the present invention, the signs of ageing of a keratin material.

[0042] The term “organic UVA-screening agent” refers to any organic chemical molecule that is capable of absorbing at least UVA radiation in the wavelength range between 320 and 400 nm; said molecule may also additionally absorb UVB radiation in the wavelength range between 280 and 320 nm.

[0043] The term “organic UVB-screening agent” refers to any organic chemical molecule that is capable of exclusively absorbing UVB radiation in the wavelength range between 280 and 320 nm.

[0044] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the composition is in the form of an emulsion.

[0045] The term “emulsion” means any kinetically stable macroscopically homogeneous composition comprising at least two mutually immiscible phases, one being the continuous dispersing phase and the other being dispersed in said continuous phase in the form of droplets. The two phases can be kinetically stabilised by at least one emulsifying system generally comprising at least one emulsifying surfactant.

[0046] A distinction is made between emulsions of oil-in-water type, termed “direct”, constituted of a continuous aqueous dispersing phase and of a non-continuous oily dispersed phase, and emulsions of water-in-oil type, termed “inverse”, constituted of a continuous oily dispersing phase and of a non-continuous aqueous dispersed phase. Multiple emulsions, such as water-in-oil-in-water or oil-in-water-in-oil, also exist.Detailed description of the inventionUV-screening agents

[0047] The composition in accordance with the invention comprises at least one UV-screening agent.

[0048] The UV-screening agent(s) may be chosen from lipophilic organic UV-screening agents, hydrophilic organic UV-screening agents and inorganic UV-screening agents.Lipophilic organic UV-screening agents

[0049] The term “organic lipophilic screening agent” is intended to mean any cosmetic or dermatological organic compound for screening out UV radiation, which can be fully dissolved in molecular form in a liquid fatty phase or else which can be dissolved in colloidal form (for example in micellar form) in a liquid fatty phase.

[0050] The lipophilic organic screening agents are chosen in particular from cinnamic compounds; anthranilate compounds; salicylic compounds; dibenzoylmethane compounds; benzylidenecamphor compounds; benzophenone compounds; β,β-diphenylacrylate compounds; triazine compounds; benzotriazole compounds; benzalmalonate compounds, in particular those cited in patent US 5 624 663; benzimidazole derivatives; imidazoline compounds; bis-benzazolyl compounds, as described in patents EP 669 323 and US 2 463 264; methylenebis(hydroxyphenylbenzotriazole) compounds, as described in patent applications US 5 237 071, US 5 166 355, GB 2 303 549, DE 197 26 184 and EP 893 119; benzoxazole compounds, as described in patent applications EP 0 832 642, EP 1 027 883, EP 1 300 137 and DE 101 62 844; screening polymers and screening silicones, such as those described in particular in patent application WO 93 / 04665; α-alkylstyrene-based dimers, such as those described in patent application DE 198 55 649; 4,4-diarylbutadiene compounds, as described in patent applications EP 0 967 200, DE 197 46 654, DE 197 55 649, EP-A-1 008 586, EP 1 133 980 and EP 133 981, and mixtures thereof.

[0051] Preferably, the lipophilic organic screening agent(s) are chosen from salicylic compounds; dibenzoylmethane compounds; benzylidenecamphor compounds; benzophenone compounds; triazine compounds; benzotriazole compounds; and mixtures thereof.

[0052] As examples of lipophilic organic photoprotective agents, mention may be made of those denoted hereinbelow under their INCI name and / or their chemical name.Cinnamic compounds:

[0053] Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate, sold especially under the trade name Parsol® MCX by DSM Nutritional Products;

[0054] Isoamyl p-Methoxycinnamate sold under the trade name Neo Heliopan E 1000® by Symrise,Dibenzoylmethane compounds:

[0055] Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane sold in particular under the trade name Parsol® 1789 by DSM Nutritional Products,Salicylic compounds:

[0056] Homosalate sold under the name Parsol® HMS by DSM Nutritional Products,

[0057] Ethylhexyl Salicylate sold under the name Neo Heliopan® OS by Symrise,β,β-Diphenylacrylate compounds:

[0058] Octocrylene, sold in particular under the trade name Uvinul® N 539 T by BASF,Benzophenone compounds:

[0059] Benzophenone-3 or Oxybenzone, sold under the trade name Uvinul® M 40 by BASF,

[0060] Diethylamino hydroxybenzoyl hexyl benzoate sold under the trade name Uvinul® A Plus or, as a mixture with ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate, under the trade name Uvinul® A Plus B by BASF,Benzylidenecamphor compounds:

[0061] 4-Methylbenzylidenecamphor sold under the name Eusolex® 6300 by Merck,Phenylbenzotriazole compounds:

[0062] Drometrizole Trisiloxane produced under the name Mexoryl® XL by Noveal,

[0063] Methylenebis(hydroxyphenylbenzotriazole) compounds:

[0064] Methylene bis-Benzotriazolyl Tetramethylbutylphenol, in particular in solid form, such as the product sold under the trade name MIXXIM BB / 100® by Fairmount Chemical,Triazine compounds:

[0065] - 3,3'-(1,4-Phenylene)bis(5,6-diphenyl-1,2,4-triazine), with the INCI name Phenylene Bis-Diphenyltriazine,

[0066] - Bis-Ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine sold under the trade name Parsol Shield® by DSM and under the trade name Tinosorb® S by BASF,

[0067] - Ethylhexyl Triazone, sold in particular under the trade name Uvinul® T 150 by BASF,

[0068] - Diethylhexyl Butamidotriazone sold under the trade name Uvasorb® HEB by 3V sigma,

[0069] - the symmetrical triazine screening agents substituted with naphthalenyl groups or polyphenyl groups described in US 6 225 467, patent application WO2004 / 085412 (see compounds 6 and 9) or the document “Symmetrical triazine derivatives” (IP.COM) IPCOM000031257 Journal, Inc West Henrietta, NY, US (20 September 2004),Anthranilic compounds:

[0070] Methyl anthranilate sold under the trade name Neo Heliopan® MA by Symrise,Benzalmalonate compounds:

[0071] Polyorganosiloxane comprising benzalmalonate functions, such as Polysilicone-15, sold under the trade name Parsol SLX® by Hoffmann-La Roche.

[0072] According to a particular embodiment, the composition in accordance with the invention comprises bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine.Hydrophilic organic UV-screening agents

[0073] For the purposes of the present invention, the term “hydrophilic organic UV-screening agent” is understood to mean a water-soluble organic UV-screening agent or a water-dispersible organic UV-screening agent.

[0074] The term “water-soluble organic screening agent” is understood to mean any organic screening agent capable of being completely dissolved in molecular form in an aqueous liquid phase or of being dissolved in colloidal form (for example in micellar form) in an aqueous liquid phase.

[0075] The term “water-dispersible organic screening agent” means any organic screening agent that is capable of forming, in a liquid aqueous phase, a homogeneous suspension of particles with a volume-average size of less than 100 microns. The volume-average size is determined by laser diffraction particle size analysis.

[0076] Among the water-soluble organic UVA-screening agents that may be used according to the present invention, mention may be made of benzene-1,4-bis(3-methylidene-10-camphorsulfonic) acid (INCI name: Terephthalylidene Dicamphor Sulfonic Acid) and the various salts thereof, notably described in patent applications FR-A-2528420 and FR-A-2639347. Mention may notably be made of benzene-1,4-bis(3-methylidene-10-camphorsulfonic acid) (INCI name: Terephthalylidene Dicamphor Sulfonic Acid) such as the product which is produced under the name Mexoryl® SX by Noveal.

[0077] These screening agents correspond to the general formula (I) below:

[0078] in which F denotes a hydrogen atom, an alkali metal or a radical NH(R1)3+in which the radicals R1, which may be identical or different, denote a hydrogen atom, a C1to C4alkyl or hydroxyalkyl radical or a group Mn+, Mn+denoting a polyvalent metal cation in which n is equal to 2 or 3 or 4, Mn+preferably denoting a metal cation chosen from Ca2+, Zn2+, Mg2+, Ba2+, Al3+and Zr4+. It is clearly understood that the compounds of formula (I) above can give rise to the “cis-trans” isomer around one or more double bond(s) and that all the isomers come within the context of the present invention.

[0079] Among the water-soluble organic UVA-screening agents that may be used according to the present invention, mention may also be made of compounds including at least two benzazolyl groups bearing sulfonic groups, such as those described in patent application EP-A-0669323.

[0080] They are described and prepared according to the syntheses indicated in patent US 2 463 264 and also in patent application EP-A-0669323.

[0081] The compounds comprising at least two benzazolyl groups in accordance with the invention correspond to general formula (II) below:

[0082] in which:

[0083] - Z represents an organic residue of valency (l + n) including one or more double bonds placed such that it completes the system of double bonds of at least two benzazolyl groups as defined inside the square brackets so as to form a fully conjugated assembly;

[0084] - X’ denotes S, O or NR6;

[0085] - R1denotes a hydrogen atom, a C1to C18alkyl, a C1to C4alkoxy, a C5to C15aryl, a C2to C18acyloxy, or a group SO3Y or COOY;

[0086] - the radicals R2, R3, R4and R5, which may be identical or different, denote a nitro group or a radical R1;

[0087] - R6denotes a hydrogen atom, a C1to C4alkyl or a C1to C4hydroxyalkyl;

[0088] - Y denotes a hydrogen atom, Li, Na, K, NH4, 1 / 2Ca, 1 / 2Mg, 1 / 3Al or a cation resulting from the neutralisation of a free acid group with an organic nitrogen base;

[0089] - m is 0 or 1;

[0090] - n is a number from 2 to 6;

[0091] - l is a number from 1 to 4;

[0092] - with the proviso that l + n does not exceed the value 6.

[0093] Among these compounds, very particular preference is given to 1,4-bis-benzimidazolyl-phenylene-3,3',5,5'-tetrasulfonic acid (INCI name: Disodium Phenyl Dibenzimidazole Tetrasulfonate) or a salt thereof, having the following structure (III), sold in particular under the name Neo Heliopan® AP by Symrise:

[0094] Preferably, the water-soluble screening agent that is capable of absorbing UVA rays is benzene-1,4-bis(3-methylidene-10-camphorsulfonic acid) (INCI name: Terephthalylidene Dicamphor Sulfonic Acid) such as the product which is produced under the name Mexoryl SX by Noveal.

[0095] The water-soluble organic UVB-screening agents that may be used according to the present invention are notably chosen from water-soluble cinnamic derivatives, such as ferulic acid or 3-methoxy-4-hydroxycinnamc acid; water-soluble benzylidenecamphor compounds; water-soluble phenylbenzimidazole compounds; water-soluble p-aminobenzoic (PABA) compounds; water-soluble salicylic compounds, and mixtures thereof.

[0096] Mention may be made, as examples of water-soluble organic UVB-screening agents, of phenylbenzimidazole compounds, such as 2-phenyl-1H-benzimidazole-5-sulfonic acid (INCI name: Phenylbenzimidazole Sulfonic Acid) sold in particular under the trade name Eusolex 232®by Merck.

[0097] The composition according to the invention may also comprise at least one mixed water-soluble screening agent capable of absorbing UVA and UVB rays.

[0098] When the water-soluble UV-screening agent is of sulfonic acid type, it is preferably associated with an organic base, such as an alkanolamine.

[0099] The term “alkanolamine” means a C2-C10compound comprising at least one primary, secondary or tertiary amine function and at least one alcohol, generally primary alcohol, function. As suitable alkanolamines, mention may be made of 2-amino-2-(hydroxymethyl)-1,3-propanediol (INCI name: Tromethamine) and triethanolamine.

[0100] Among the water-dispersible organic screening agents, mention may be made of the following screening agents.Benzophenone compounds:

[0101] 1,1'-(1,4-Piperazinediyl)bis[1-[2-[4-(diethylamino)-2-hydroxybenzoyl]phenyl]methanone] (CAS 919803-06-8), as described in application WO 2007 / 071584; this compound advantageously being used in micronised form (volume-average size of 0.02 to 2 µm), which may be obtained, for example, according to the micronisation process described in applications GB-A-2 303 549 and EP-A-893 119, and in particular in the form of an aqueous dispersion.

[0102] Methylenebis(hydroxyphenylbenzotriazole) compounds:

[0103] Methylenebis(benzotriazolyl)tetramethylbutylphenol

[0104] in the form of an aqueous dispersion of micronised particles having a volume-average particle size ranging from 0.01 to 5 μm, more preferentially from 0.01 to 2 μm, and more particularly from 0.020 to 2 μm, with at least one alkylpolyglycoside surfactant having the structure CnH2n+1O(C6H10O5)xH in which n is an integer from 8 to 16 and x is the average degree of polymerisation of the unit (C6H10O5) and ranges from 1.4 to 1.6, such as the aqueous dispersions described in patent GB-A-2 303 549, in particular the product sold under the trade name Tinosorb® M by BASF, or

[0105] in the form of an aqueous dispersion of micronised particles having a volume-average particle size ranging from 0.02 to 2 μm, more preferentially from 0.01 to 1.5 μm, and more particularly from 0.02 to 1 μm, in the presence of at least one mono(C8-C20)alkyl ester of polyglycerol having a degree of glycerol polymerisation of at least 5, such as the aqueous dispersions described in application WO2009 / 063392, in particular the product sold under the name Tinosorb WPGL by BASF,Triazine compounds:

[0106] - Bis-Ethylhexyloxyphenol Methoxyphenyl Triazine in its water-dispersible form having the INCI name Bis-Ethylhexyloxyphenol Methoxyphenyl Triazine (and) Acrylates / C12-22 Alkyl Methacrylate Copolymer, under the trade name Tinosorb® S LiteAqua by BASF,

[0107] - symmetrical triazine screening agents substituted with naphthalenyl groups or polyphenyl groups used in micronised form (average particle size of 0.02 to 3 µm) which can be obtained, for example, by the micronisation process described in applications GB-A-2 303 549 and EP-A-893119, and in particular in aqueous dispersion form, in particular 2,4,6-tris(biphenyl)triazine and 2,4,6-tris(ter-phenyl)triazine sold under the name Tinosorb® A2B by BASF and which is included in patent applications WO06 / 035000, WO06 / 034982, WO06 / 034991, WO06 / 035007, WO2006 / 034992, WO2006 / 034985,Benzoxazole compounds:

[0108] 2-[4-(1,3-benzoxazol-2-yl)phenyl]-1,3-benzoxazole, having the CAS number 904-39-2.Inorganic UV-screening agents

[0109] The inorganic UV-screening agents that may be used in accordance with the present invention are metal oxide pigments. More preferentially, the inorganic UV-screening agents of the invention are metal oxide particles having an average elementary particle size of less than or equal to 0.5 µm, more preferentially of between 0.005 and 0.5 µm, even more preferentially of between 0.01 and 0.2 µm, even better still between 0.01 and 0.1 µm and more particularly between 0.015 and 0.05 µm. They are in particular described in annex VI, updated on 22 September 2021, of EU regulation number 1223 / 2009 regarding cosmetic products, but are not limited to this list.

[0110] They may notably be chosen from titanium oxide, zinc oxide, iron oxide, zirconium oxide and cerium oxide, or mixtures thereof.

[0111] Such coated or uncoated metal oxide pigments are described in particular in patent application EP-A-0 518 773. Commercial pigments that may be mentioned include the products sold by the companies Croda, Tayca and Merck.

[0112] The metal oxide pigments may be coated or uncoated.

[0113] The coated pigments are pigments which have undergone one or more surface treatments of chemical, electronic, mechanochemical and / or mechanical nature with compounds such as amino acids, beeswax, fatty acids, fatty alcohols, anionic surfactants, lecithins, sodium, potassium, zinc, iron or aluminium salts of fatty acids, metal alkoxides (of titanium or aluminium), polyethylene, silicones, proteins (collagen, elastin), alkanolamines, silicon oxides, metal oxides or sodium hexametaphosphate.

[0114] The coated pigments are more particularly titanium oxides that have been coated:

[0115] - with hydrated silica, such as the product MT-100WP from Tayca,

[0116] - with silica and iron oxide, such as the product Sunveil F® from Ikeda,

[0117] - with silica and alumina, such as the products MT-500SA® and MT-100SA® from Tayca and Tioveil™ AQ-N from Croda,

[0118] - with alumina, such as the product TTO-55 (A)® from Ishihara,

[0119] - with alumina and aluminium stearate, such as the products MT-100TV®, MT-100Z®and MT-01®from Tayca, the product Solaveil™ CT100®from Croda and the product Eusolex T-AVO®from Merck,

[0120] - with silica, alumina and alginic acid, such as the product MT-100AQ®from Tayca,

[0121] - with alumina and aluminium laurate,

[0122] - with iron oxide and iron stearate,

[0123] - with zinc oxide and zinc stearate,

[0124] - with silica and alumina and treated with a silicone, such as the products MTY-500SAS® or Microtitanium Dioxide MT-100SAS® from Tayca,

[0125] - with silica, alumina, and aluminium stearate and treated with a silicone,

[0126] - with silica and treated with a silicone,

[0127] - with alumina and treated with a silicone, such as the product TTO-55(S)® from Ishihara,

[0128] - with triethanolamine,

[0129] - with stearic acid, such as the product TTO-55 (C)® from Ishihara,

[0130] - with sodium hexametaphosphate,

[0131] - with TiO2treated with octyltrimethylsilane,

[0132] - with TiO2treated with a polydimethylsiloxane,

[0133] - with anatase / rutile TiO2treated with a polydimethylhydrogenosiloxane,

[0134] - TiO2coated with triethylhexanoin, with aluminium stearate and with alumina sold under the trade name SolaveilTMCT-200 by Croda,

[0135] - TiO2coated with aluminium stearate, with alumina and with silicone, sold under the trade name SolaveilTMCT-12W by Croda,

[0136] - with TiO2coated with lauroyl lysine,

[0137] - with TiO2coated with C9-C15fluoroalcohol phosphate and with aluminium hydroxide.

[0138] Mention may also be made of TiO2pigments doped with at least one transition metal such as iron, zinc or manganese and more particularly manganese. Preferably, said doped pigments are in the form of an oily dispersion. The oil present in the oily dispersion is preferably chosen from triglycerides including those of capric / caprylic acids. The oily dispersion of titanium oxide particles may also comprise one or more dispersants, for instance a sorbitan ester, for instance sorbitan isostearate, or a polyoxyalkylenated fatty acid ester of glycerol, for instance Tri-PPG-3 myristyl ether citrate and polyglyceryl-3 polyricinoleate. Preferably, the oily dispersion of titanium oxide particles includes at least one dispersant chosen from polyoxyalkylenated fatty acid esters of glycerol. Mention may be made more particularly of the oily dispersion of TiO2particles doped with manganese in capric / caprylic acid triglyceride in the presence of TRI-PPG-3 myristyl ether citrate and polyglyceryl-3 polyricinoleate and sorbitan isostearate having the INCI name: Titanium Dioxide (and) Tri-PPG-3 Myristyl Ether Citrate (and) Polyglyceryl-3 Ricinoleate (and) Sorbitan Isostearate, or the product sold under the trade name OptisolTMOTP-1 by Croda.

[0139] The uncoated titanium oxide pigments are for example sold by Tayca under the trade names MT-500B or MT-600B® or by Evonik under the name Degussa P 25.

[0140] The uncoated zinc oxide pigments are, for example:

[0141] - those sold under the name Z-Cote® by BASF;

[0142] - those sold under the name NanoArc® Zinc Oxide by Nanophase Technologies.

[0143] The coated zinc oxide pigments are, for example:

[0144] - ZnO coated with polymethylhydrosiloxane;

[0145] - Solaveil™ CZ-100 from Croda, dispersed in C12-C15alkyl benzoate (INCI: Zinc Oxide (and) C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate (and) Polyhydroxystearic Acid (and) Isostearic Acid);

[0146] - those sold under the name Daitopersion Zn-60VA® by Daito Kasei (dispersions in C9-C12alkane with a dispersant);

[0147] - those sold under the name SPD-Z5® by Shin-Etsu (ZnO coated with silicone-grafted acrylic polymer, dispersed in cyclodimethylsiloxane).

[0148] The uncoated cerium oxide pigments may be, for example, those sold under the name Rhodigard® W15 by Solvay.

[0149] Mention may also be made of mixtures of metal oxides, especially of titanium dioxide and cerium dioxide, including the mixture in equal weights of titanium dioxide and cerium dioxide, coated in silica, and also the mixture of titanium dioxide and zinc dioxide coated with alumina, silica and silicone or coated with alumina, silica and glycerol.

[0150] When the composition in accordance with the invention comprises inorganic UV-screening agents, the coated or uncoated titanium oxide pigments are particularly preferred.

[0151] According to a particular embodiment, the total amount of UV-screening agents present in the composition is greater than or equal to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. According to one preferred embodiment, the total amount of UV-screening agents present in the composition is between 15% and 35% by weight, preferably between 16% and 25% by weight of the total weight of the composition.

[0152] For the purposes of the present invention, the term “total amount of UV-screening agent” means the sum of the active material concentrations of each of the UV-screening agents present in the composition, in particular lipophilic organic UV-screening agents, hydrophilic organic UV-screening agents and inorganic UV-screening agents.Ascorbic acid

[0153] For the purposes of the invention, the ascorbic acid preferably corresponds to L-ascorbic acid, or vitamin C. It has the structure of the formula (IV):

[0154] The composition according to the invention comprises at least 1% by weight of ascorbic acid, relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably at least 5% by weight, more preferentially at least 7% by weight.

[0155] Preferably, the composition comprises from 1% to 30% by weight of ascorbic acid, preferably from 5% to 25% by weight, more preferentially from 7% to 20% by weight, and even more preferentially from 8% to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.Scleroglucan gums

[0156] The composition in accordance with the invention comprises one or more scleroglucan gums.

[0157] Scleroglucan gums are polysaccharides of microbial origin produced by a fungus ofSclerotiumtype, in particularSclerotium rolfsii. They are polysaccharides constituted solely of glucose units.

[0158] Scleroglucan gums may or may not be modified. Preferably, the scleroglucan gums used in the present invention are unmodified.

[0159] Examples of scleroglucan gums that may be used in the present invention are, in a nonlimiting manner, the products sold under the name Actigum CS, in particular Actigum CS 11 by Sanofi Bio Industries, and under the name Amigum or Amigel by Alban Müller International.

[0160] Other scleroglucan gums, such as the gum treated with glyoxal described in French patent application No. 2 633 940, may also be used.

[0161] The scleroglucan gum(s) that can be used according to the invention preferably represent a total content ranging from 0.01% to 10% by weight, more preferentially from 0.05% to 5% by weight, and even more preferentially from 0.1% to 3% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.Lipophilic polymers

[0162] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the composition comprises at least one lipophilic polymer comprising monomer units of formulae (A) and (B):

[0163] in which:

[0164] R1, independently of one another, are chosen from alkyl or alkenyl radicals;

[0165] with at least 60% by weight of the groups R1being radicals chosen from stearyl and behenyl radicals, the weight percentage being relative to the sum of all the groups R1present in the polymer;

[0166] the weight ratio of the sum of all the hydroxyethyl acrylate units to the sum of all the acrylate units bearing the R1group ranges from 1:30 to 1: 1; and

[0167] the sum of the total of units A and B is at least 95% by weight relative to the total weight of the polymer.

[0168] Preferably, R1is constituted of alkyl radicals, preferably of C16-C22alkyl radicals, and more preferentially of stearyl (C18) radicals or of behenyl (C22) radicals.

[0169] Preferably, at least 70% by weight of the groups R1are stearyl or behenyl radicals, preferentially at least 80% by weight and more preferentially at least 90% by weight.

[0170] According to one preferred embodiment, all the groups R1are behenyl radicals.

[0171] According to another preferred embodiment, all the groups R1are stearyl radicals.

[0172] Preferably, said weight ratio ranges from 1:15 to 1:1 and preferentially ranges from 1:10 to 1:4.

[0173] Advantageously, the polymer units present in the polymer are constituted of the units (A) and (B) previously described.

[0174] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the polymer has a number-average molecular weight Mn ranging from 2000 to 9000 g / mol, preferably ranging from 5000 to 9000 g / mol. The number-average molecular weight can be measured by the gel permeation chromatography method, for example according to the method described in the example hereinbelow.

[0175] Preferably, the polymer has a melting point ranging from 40°C to 70°C and preferentially ranging from 45°C to 67°C. The melting point is measured by differential scanning calorimetry (DSC), for example according to the method described in the example hereinbelow.

[0176] According to a first embodiment, when the polymer is such that at least 60% by weight of the groups R1are stearyl radicals, then the polymer generally has a melting point ranging from 40 to 60°C, and preferentially ranging from 45 to 55°C.

[0177] According to a second embodiment, when the polymer is such that at least 60% by weight of the groups R1are behenyl radicals, then the polymer generally has a melting point ranging from 60 to 70°C, and preferentially ranging from 63 to 67°C.

[0178] The polymer used according to the invention may be prepared by polymerisation of a monomer of formula CH2=CH-COO-R1, R1having the meaning described previously, and 2-hydroxyethyl acrylate.

[0179] The polymerisation may be performed according to known methods, such as solution polymerisation or emulsion polymerisation.

[0180] The polymerisation is, for example, described in document US 2007 / 0264204.

[0181] The lipophilic polymer(s) used in the context of the invention and as described previously may be present in the composition in an active material amount ranging from 0.05% to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.1% to 5% by weight, and better still from 0.2% to 3% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.Aqueous phase

[0182] The composition in accordance with the invention comprises at least one aqueous phase.

[0183] The aqueous phase contains water and optionally other organic solvents that are water-soluble or water-miscible at 25°C.

[0184] The water used can contain sterile demineralised water and / or a floral water, such as rose water, cornflower water, camomile water or lime water, and / or a natural thermal or mineral water.

[0185] An aqueous phase which is suitable for the invention can comprise, for example, a water chosen from a natural spring water, such as water from La Roche-Posay, water from Vittel, water from Saint-Gervais Mont-Blanc or waters from Vichy, or a floral water.

[0186] The water-soluble or water-miscible solvents which are suitable for the invention comprise short-chain monoalcohols, for example C1-C4monoalcohols, such as ethanol or isopropanol; diols or polyols, such as ethylene glycol, 1,2-propylene glycol, 1,3-butylene glycol, hexylene glycol, diethylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, 2-ethoxyethanol, diethylene glycol monomethyl ether, triethylene glycol monomethyl ether, glycerol and sorbitol, and mixtures thereof.

[0187] According to one particular form of the invention, the overall aqueous phase, including all the hydrophilic substances of the composition which are capable of being dissolved in this same phase, including hydrophilic screening agents, represents from 40% to 80% by weight and preferably from 55% to 75% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.Fatty phase

[0188] The composition in accordance with the invention can comprise at least one fatty phase.

[0189] The fatty phase may be constituted of all the fatty substances conventionally used in the cosmetic or dermatological fields; it may in particular comprise at least one oil. The fatty phase also comprises the lipophilic screening agent(s) present in the composition according to the invention.

[0190] The term “oil” is intended to mean any fatty substance that is in liquid form at ambient temperature (20-25°C) and atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg). These oils may be volatile or non-volatile.

[0191] For the purposes of the invention, the term “volatile oil” refers to an oil that is capable of evaporating on contact with the skin or the keratin fibre in less than one hour, at ambient temperature and atmospheric pressure. The volatile oil(s) of the invention is (are) volatile cosmetic oils, which are liquid at ambient temperature, having a non-zero vapour pressure, at ambient temperature and atmospheric pressure, ranging in particular from 0.13 Pa to 40 000 Pa (10-3to 300 mmHg), in particular ranging from 1.3 Pa to 13 000 Pa (0.01 to 100 mmHg) and more particularly ranging from 1.3 Pa to 1300 Pa (0.01 to 10 mmHg).

[0192] The term “non-volatile oil” is intended to mean an oil that remains on the skin or the keratin fibre at ambient temperature and atmospheric pressure for at least several hours, and that notably has a vapour pressure of less than 10-3mmHg (0.13 Pa).

[0193] For the purposes of the present invention, the term “hydrocarbon-based oil” means any oil predominantly comprising carbon and hydrogen atoms, and optionally one or more heteroatoms, in particular nitrogen and oxygen. Thus, these oils can in particular contain one or more ester, ether, fluoro, carboxylic acid and / or alcohol groups.

[0194] The term “silicone oil” is intended to mean an oil comprising at least one silicon atom and notably at least one Si-O group.

[0195] Mention may in particular be made, as non-volatile hydrocarbon-based oils which can be used according to the invention, of:

[0196] (i) hydrocarbon-based oils of plant origin, such as glyceride triesters, which are generally triesters of fatty acids and of glycerol, the fatty acids of which can have varied chain lengths from C4to C24, it being possible for these chains to be saturated or unsaturated and linear or branched; these oils are in particular wheat germ oil, sunflower oil, grape seed oil, sesame oil, maize oil, apricot oil, castor oil, shea oil, avocado oil, olive oil, soybean oil, sweet almond oil, palm oil, rapeseed oil, cottonseed oil, hazelnut oil, macadamia oil, jojoba oil, alfalfa oil, poppy oil, red kuri squash oil, pumpkin oil, blackcurrant oil, evening primrose oil, millet oil, barley oil, quinoa oil, rye oil, safflower oil, candlenut oil, passionflower oil or musk rose oil; or alternatively triglycerides of caprylic / capric acids, such as those sold by Stéarinerie Dubois or those sold under the names Miglyol 810®, 812® and 818® by Dynamit Nobel;

[0197] (ii) synthetic ethers having from 10 to 40 carbon atoms;

[0198] (iii) linear or branched hydrocarbons of mineral or synthetic origin, such as liquid petroleum, polydecenes, hydrogenated polyisobutene, such as parleam, squalane and mixtures thereof;

[0199] (iv) synthetic esters, such as the oils of formula RCOOR' in which R represents the residue of a linear or branched fatty acid comprising from 1 to 40 carbon atoms and R' represents a hydrocarbon chain, in particular branched hydrocarbon chain, containing from 1 to 40 carbon atoms, with the proviso that R + R' ≥ 10, such as, for example, Purcellin oil (cetostearyl octanoate), isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, C12-C15alkyl benzoate, such as the product sold under the trade name Finsolv TN® or Witconol TN® by Witco or Tegosoft TN® by Evonik Goldschmidt, 2-ethylphenyl benzoate, such as the commercial product sold under the name X-Tend 226® by ISP, isopropyl lanolate, hexyl laurate, diisopropyl adipate, isononyl isononanoate, oleyl erucate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, isostearyl isostearate, diisopropyl sebacate, such as the product sold under the name Dub Dis by Stéarinerie Dubois, octanoates, decanoates or ricinoleates of alcohols or of polyalcohols, such as propylene glycol dioctanoate; hydroxylated esters, such as isostearyl lactate or diisostearyl malate; and pentaerythritol esters; citrates or tartrates, such as di(linear C12-C13alkyl) tartrates, such as those sold under the name Cosmacol ETI® by Enichem Augusta Industriale, and also di(linear C14-C15alkyl) tartrates, such as those sold under the name Cosmacol ETL® by the same company; acetates;

[0200] (v) fatty alcohols which are liquid at ambient temperature and which have a branched and / or unsaturated carbon chain comprising from 12 to 26 carbon atoms, such as octyldodecanol, isostearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, 2-hexyldecanol, 2-butyloctanol or 2-undecylpentadecanol;

[0201] (vi) carbonates, such as dicaprylyl carbonate, such as the product sold under the name Cetiol CC® by Cognis;

[0202] and mixtures thereof.

[0203] Among the non-volatile hydrocarbon-based oils which can be used according to the invention, preference will be given more particularly to glyceride triesters and in particular to caprylic / capric acid triglycerides, synthetic esters and in particular diisopropyl adipate, diisopropyl sebacate, isopropyl palmitate, dicaprylyl carbonate, isononyl isononanoate, oleyl erucate, C12-C15alkyl benzoate, 2-ethylphenyl benzoate and fatty alcohols, in particular octyldodecanol. Preferably, the non-volatile hydrocarbon-based oils are chosen from diisopropyl adipate, diisopropyl sebacate, isopropyl palmitate and dicaprylyl carbonate.

[0204] As volatile hydrocarbon-based oils that may be used according to the invention, mention may notably be made of hydrocarbon-based oils containing from 8 to 16 carbon atoms and notably branched C8-C16alkanes, such as C8-C16isoalkanes of petroleum origin (also known as isoparaffins), such as isododecane (also known as 2,2,4,4,6-pentamethylheptane), isodecane or isohexadecane, the oils sold under the Isopar or Permethyl trade names, branched C8-C16esters, isohexyl neopentanoate, and mixtures thereof.

[0205] Mention may also be made of the alkanes described in the Cognis patent applications WO 2007 / 068 371 or WO 2008 / 155 059 (mixtures of distinct alkanes differing by at least one carbon). These alkanes are obtained from fatty alcohols, which are themselves obtained from coconut kernel or palm oil. Mention may be made of the mixtures of n-undecane (C11) and n-tridecane (C13) obtained in Examples 1 and 2 of application WO 2008 / 155 059 from Cognis. Mention may also be made of n-dodecane (C12) and n-tetradecane (C14) sold by Sasol respectively under the references Parafol 12-97 and Parafol 14-97®, and also mixtures thereof.

[0206] Other volatile hydrocarbon-based oils, such as petroleum distillates, in particular those sold under the name Shell Solt® by Shell, can also be used. According to one embodiment, the volatile solvent is chosen from volatile hydrocarbon-based oils having from 8 to 16 carbon atoms, and mixtures thereof.

[0207] The non-volatile silicone oils can be chosen in particular from non-volatile polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMSs), polydimethylsiloxanes comprising alkyl or alkoxy groups, which groups are pendent and / or at the end of the silicone chain and each have from 2 to 24 carbon atoms, or phenylated silicones, such as phenyl trimethicones, phenyl dimethicones, phenyl(trimethylsiloxy)diphenylsiloxanes, diphenyl dimethicones, diphenyl(methyldiphenyl)trisiloxanes or (2-phenylethyl)trimethylsiloxysilicates.

[0208] Volatile silicone oils that may be mentioned, for example, include volatile linear or cyclic silicone oils, in particular those with a viscosity ≤ 8 centistokes (8×10-6m2 / s) and in particular containing from 2 to 7 silicon atoms, these silicones optionally comprising alkyl or alkoxy groups containing from 1 to 10 carbon atoms. Mention may in particular be made, as volatile silicone oil which can be used in the invention, of octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane, heptamethylhexyltrisiloxane, heptamethyloctyltrisiloxane, hexamethyldisiloxane, octamethyltrisiloxane, decamethyltetrasiloxane, dodecamethylpentasiloxane and mixtures thereof.

[0209] Mention may also be made of the volatile linear alkyltrisiloxane oils such as:

[0210] 3-butyl-1,1,1,3,5,5,5-heptamethyltrisiloxane,

[0211] 3-propyl-1,1,1,3,5,5,5-heptamethyltrisiloxane, and

[0212] 3-ethyl-1,1,1,3,5,5,5-heptamethyltrisiloxane.

[0213] Use may also be made of volatile fluoro oils, such as nonafluoromethoxybutane, nonafluoromethoxybutane, decafluoropentane, tetradecafluorohexane, dodecafluoropentane, and mixtures thereof.

[0214] The fatty phase according to the invention can additionally comprise other fatty substances, mixed with or dissolved in the oil.

[0215] Another fatty substance which can be present in the oily phase can, for example, be:

[0216] - a fatty acid such as fatty acids comprising from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, such as stearic acid, lauric acid, palmitic acid or oleic acid; preferably C12-C22higher fatty acids, such as oleic acid, linoleic acid or linolenic acid;

[0217] - a wax chosen from waxes such as lanolin, beeswax, carnauba or candelilla wax, paraffin waxes, lignite waxes, microcrystalline waxes, ceresin or ozokerite, or synthetic waxes, such as polyethylene waxes or Fischer-Tropsch waxes;

[0218] - a gum chosen from silicone gums (dimethiconol);

[0219] - a pasty compound, such as polymeric or non-polymeric silicone compounds, esters of a glycerol oligomer, arachidyl propionate, fatty acid triglycerides and derivatives thereof;

[0220] - and mixtures thereof.

[0221] When it is present, the overall fatty phase, including all the lipophilic substances of the composition capable of being dissolved in this same phase, including the lipophilic screening agents, represents from 20% to 60% by weight and preferentially from 25% to 45% by weight, with respect to the total weight of the composition.Cosmetic active ingredients

[0222] The composition of the present invention may comprise at least one cosmetic active agent.

[0223] Examples of cosmetic active ingredients include moisturising agents; natural extracts; vitamins other than vitamin C, and also derivatives thereof (in particular esters); vitamin C derivatives (in particular esters); urea; caffeine; salicylic acid and derivatives thereof; alpha-hydroxy acids such as lactic acid or glycolic acid and derivatives thereof; retinoids; extracts of algae, of fungi, of plants, of yeast and of bacteria; enzymes; tensioning agents; agents which act on the microcirculation, and mixtures thereof.Additional adjuvants or additives

[0224] The composition of the present invention may also contain conventional cosmetic adjuvants or additives, for example fragrances, chelating agents (for example, tetrasodium glutamate diacetate and disodium EDTA), preservatives (for example, chlorphenesin and phenoxyethanol) and bactericides, additional thickeners (such as acrylamide / sodium acryloyldimethyltaurate copolymer, polysaccharides other than scleroglucans, especially xanthan gum), pH regulators (for example triethanolamine, citric acid and sodium hydroxide), fillers (for example aluminium starch octenylsuccinate and polymethylsilsesquioxane) and mixtures thereof.

[0225] A person skilled in the art will select the amount of cosmetic active ingredients and additional adjuvants or additives so as not to adversely affect the final use of the composition according to the present invention.Galenical forms

[0226] The compositions according to the invention may be prepared according to techniques that are well known to a person skilled in the art.

[0227] The compositions in accordance with the invention may be in particular in the form of a simple or complex emulsion (O / W, W / O, O / W / O or W / O / W), such as a cream or a milk, a gel-cream, a serum or a fluid.

[0228] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the composition is in the form of an emulsion. It may in particular be in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion (direct emulsion) or in the form of a water-in-oil emulsion (inverse emulsion). Preferably, the composition is in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion.

[0229] In the case of compositions in the form of oil-in-water or water-in-oil emulsions, the emulsification processes that may be used are of the paddle or impeller, rotor-stator and HPH type.

[0230] In order to obtain stable emulsions with a low content of polymer (oil / polymer ratio > 25), it is possible to prepare the dispersion in concentrated phase and then to dilute the dispersion with the remainder of the aqueous phase.

[0231] It is also possible, via HPH (between 50 and 800 bar), to obtain stable dispersions with drop sizes that may be as small as 100 nm.

[0232] The emulsions may contain at least one emulsifier chosen from amphoteric, anionic, cationic or non-ionic emulsifiers, used alone or as a mixture. The emulsifiers are appropriately chosen according to the emulsion to be obtained (W / O or O / W).

[0233] Examples of W / O emulsifying surfactants that may be mentioned include alkyl esters or ethers of sorbitan, of glycerol, of polyol or of sugars; silicone surfactants, for instance dimethicone copolyols, such as the mixture of cyclomethicone and of dimethicone copolyol, sold under the name DC 5225 C® by Dow Corning, and alkyldimethicone copolyols such as laurylmethicone copolyol sold under the name Dow Corning 5200 Formulation Aid by Dow Corning; cetyldimethicone copolyol, such as the product sold under the name Abil EM 90R® by Goldschmidt, and the mixture of cetyldimethicone copolyol, of polyglyceryl isostearate (4 mol) and of hexyl laurate, sold under the name Abil WE O9® by Goldschmidt. One or more coemulsifiers, which may be chosen advantageously from the group comprising polyol alkyl esters, may also be added thereto.

[0234] Mention may also be made of non-silicone emulsifying surfactants, notably alkyl esters or ethers of sorbitan, of glycerol, of polyol or of sugars.

[0235] Polyol alkyl esters that may notably be mentioned include polyethylene glycol esters, for instance PEG-30 dipolyhydroxystearate, such as the product sold under the name Arlacel P135® by ICI.

[0236] Examples of glycerol and / or sorbitan esters that may be mentioned include polyglyceryl isostearate, such as the product sold under the name Isolan GI 34® by Goldschmidt; sorbitan isostearate, such as the product sold under the name Arlacel 987® by ICI; sorbitan glyceryl isostearate, such as the product sold under the name Arlacel 986® by ICI, and mixtures thereof.

[0237] Mention may be made, for the O / W emulsions, for example, as non-ionic emulsifying surfactants, of polyoxyalkylenated (more particularly polyoxyethylenated and / or polyoxypropylenated) esters of fatty acids and of glycerol such as the esters of polyethylene glycol and of stearic acid having the INCI name PEG-100 Stearate, sold under the name Myrj S100-PA-(SG) by Croda; oxyalkylenated esters of fatty acids and of sorbitan; polyoxyalkylenated (in particular polyoxyethylenated and / or polyoxypropylenated) esters of fatty acids, optionally in combination with an ester of a fatty acid and of glycerol, such as the PEG-100 Stearate / Glyceryl Stearate mixture sold, for example, by ICI under the name Arlacel 165; oxyalkylenated (oxyethylenated and / or oxypropylenated) ethers of fatty alcohols; esters of sugars, such as sucrose stearate; or ethers of fatty alcohol and of sugar, in particular alkyl polyglucosides (APGs), such as decyl glucoside and lauryl glucoside, sold, for example, by Henkel under the respective names Plantaren 2000® and Plantaren 1200®, cetostearyl glucoside, optionally as a mixture with cetostearyl alcohol, sold, for example, under the name Montanov 68® by SEPPIC, under the name Tegocare CG90® by Goldschmidt and under the name Emulgade KE3302® by Henkel, and arachidyl glucoside, for example in the form of the mixture of arachidyl and behenyl alcohols and of arachidyl glucoside sold under the name Montanov 202® by SEPPIC. According to one particular embodiment of the invention, the mixture of the alkyl polyglucoside as defined above with the corresponding fatty alcohol can be in the form of a self-emulsifying composition, for example as described in document WO-A-92 / 06778.

[0238] As anionic surfactants making it possible to produce O / W emulsions, mention may be made of surfactants chosen from amino acids modified with at least one C8-C30, preferably C8-C24, hydrocarbon-based chain, and salts thereof, in particular acyl glutamic acids (INCI name: Acyl Glutamic Acid) or a salt thereof (acyl glutamates), such as stearoyl glutamic acid or a salt thereof, in particular Sodium Stearoyl Glutamate (INCI name).

[0239] Such compounds are sold under the name Amisoft by Ajinomoto and in particular under the references Amisoft CA, Amisoft LA, Amisoft HS 11 PF, Amisoft MK-11, Amisoft LK-11 and Amisoft CK-11, or alternatively under the name Eumulgin SG by Cognis.

[0240] As anionic surfactants making it possible to produce O / W emulsions, mention may also be made of hydrophobically modified polysaccharides, in particular inulins modified with hydrophobic chains such as alkyl carbamate groups, in particular C8-C18alkyl carbamate groups, and more particularly lauryl carbamate groups.

[0241] Examples of these compounds that may in particular be mentioned include the product sold under the name Inutec SL1 by Creachem.

[0242] The compositions according to the invention may also be aqueous solutions, more preferentially aqueous solutions with a slightly gelled appearance.

[0243] According to another particular embodiment, the composition according to the invention is a single-phase aqueous composition. This composition can be referred to as “serum”. The term “serum” is understood to mean a composition with a fluid texture and a slightly gelled appearance, and which flows.

[0244] According to this embodiment, the composition is preferably substantially free of surfactants. The term “substantially free of surfactants” is understood to mean that the composition according to the invention exhibits a content of surfactants of less than or equal to 2% by weight, with respect to the total weight of the composition, preferably of less than or equal to 1% by weight. The surfactants can preferentially be peptising agents, the concentration of which is between 0.1% and 2% by weight; they make possible the dissolution of a small amount of oil(s) or of lipophilic compounds or of fragrance(s) (i.e. concentration of fragrance(s) or oil(s) or lipophilic compound(s) of between 0.05% and 2%).EXAMPLES

[0245] The present invention will now be described more specifically by means of examples, which do not in any way limit the scope of the invention. However, the examples make it possible to support specific features, variants and preferred embodiments of the invention.

[0246] A / Examples of synthesis of lipophilic polymers comprising monomer units of formulae (A) and (B) in accordance with the invention

[0247] Determination of the molecular weight by gel permeation chromatography (GPC):

[0248] The sample is prepared by preparing a solution of the polymer at 10 mg / ml in tetrahydrofuran. The sample is placed in an oven at 54°C for 10 minutes and then in an oscillating shaker for 60 minutes to aid dissolution. After visual inspection, the sample appears to be totally dissolved in the solvent.

[0249] The sample prepared was analysed using two polypore 300×7.5 mm columns (produced by Agilent Technologies), a Waters 2695 chromatographic system, a tetrahydrofuran mobile phase and detection by refractive index. The sample was filtered through a 0.45 µm nylon filter, before being injected into the liquid chromatograph. The standards used for the calibration are the Easi Vial narrow polystyrene (PS) standards from Agilent Technologies.

[0250] Polystyrene standards ranging from 2 520 000 to 162 daltons were used for the calibration.

[0251] The system is equipped with a PSS SECcurity 1260 RI detector. The polystyrene calibration curve was used to determine the average molecular weight. The recording of the diagrams and the determination of the various molecular weights were performed by the Win GPC Unichrom 81 program.

[0252] Determination of the melting point by differential scanning calorimetry (or DSC):

[0253] This method describes the general procedure for determining the melting point of polymers by differential scanning calorimetry. This method is based on the standards ASTM E791 and ASTM D 34182 and the DSC calibration is performed according to the standard ASTM E 9672.

[0254] Behenyl acrylate / 2-hydroxyethyl acrylate copolymer (Polymer 1):

[0255] In a 4-necked flask equipped with a side-blade mixer, an internal thermometer, two funnels, a reflux condenser, and an extension for two other necks, 175 g of behenyl acrylate, 25 g of 2-hydroxyethyl acrylate and 0.4 g of 2,2’-azobis(2-methylbutyronitrile) (Akzo Nobel) were added, over the course of 60 minutes at 80°C, to 40 g of isopropanol, with stirring, after having removed the oxygen from the system by means of a nitrogen flush for 20 minutes. The mixture was stirred at 80°C for 3 hours. The solvent was then eliminated by vacuum distillation, then 1 g of dilauryl peroxide was added and the reaction was continued for 60 minutes at 110°C. The step was repeated. The mixture was then cooled to 90°C, a stream of demineralised water was added and the mixture was then stirred. The water was removed by vacuum distillation.

[0256] Molecular weight: Mn = 7300 g / mol, Mw = 21 000, Mw / Mn = 2.8

[0257] Melting point: 65°C

[0258] Stearyl acrylate / 2-hydroxyethyl acrylate copolymer (Polymer 2):

[0259] In a 4-necked flask equipped with a side-blade mixer, an internal thermometer, two funnels, a reflux condenser, and an extension for two other necks, 155 g of behenyl acrylate, 45 g of 2-hydroxyethyl acrylate and 0.4 g of 2,2’-azobis(2-methylbutyronitrile) (Akzo Nobel) were added, over the course of 90 minutes at 80°C, to 50 g of isopropanol, with stirring, after having removed the oxygen from the system by means of a nitrogen flush for 20 minutes. The mixture was stirred at 80°C for 3 hours. The solvent was then eliminated by vacuum distillation, then 1 g of dilauryl peroxide was added and the reaction was continued for 60 minutes at 125°C. The step was repeated. The mixture was then cooled to 90°C, a stream of demineralised water was added and the mixture was then stirred. The water was removed by vacuum distillation.

[0260] Molecular weight: Mn = 7500 g / mol, Mw = 19 000, Mw / Mn = 2.6

[0261] Melting point: 49°C

[0262] B / Formulation examples

[0263] The examples that follow serve to illustrate the invention without, however, being limiting in nature. In these examples, the amounts of the ingredients present in the compositions are given as % by weight of starting materials (SM) or of active materials (AM) relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0264] Protocol for evaluating the stability of the compositions of the invention

[0265] The stability of the compositions is evaluated macroscopically (appearance, colour, odour, pH and viscosity) and microscopically, at 24 hours, 1 month and 2 months, at 4°C, 25°C and 45°C.

[0266] The macroscopic stability is assessed with the naked eye and the microscopic stability is assessed with a white light optical microscope.Composition preparation method

[0267] The process for producing the exemplified compositions is conventional.Production in the main vessel:

[0268] The starting materials of phase A1 are introduced into the vessel. The vessel is placed under vacuum, blade and turbine stirring is performed in order to homogenise phase A1 and the latter is heated to a temperature of 47°C. Once the temperature has been reached, the heating is stopped and the starting materials of phase A2 are suctioned up. A turbine efficiency of between 2000 rpm and 2500 rpm is applied, still under vacuum at a temperature of 47°C. Care is taken to thoroughly disperse until a homogeneous medium without gel grains is obtained.

[0269] Once phases A1 and A2 are completely homogeneous, phase B as prepared according to the production process defined below is introduced, the mixture is thoroughly stirred until a conforming emulsion is obtained, for a minimum of 10-15 minutes with a turbine efficiency of between 2500 rpm and 3000 rpm, still under vacuum and with a temperature of between 50°C and 55°C. Once a conforming emulsion has been obtained, the preparation is cooled with scraper blade stirring and under vacuum until a temperature below 35°C is obtained. At this stage, the starting materials of phases C1 and C2 are introduced with stirring of between 2500 rpm and 3000 rpm. Dispersion is performed until a conforming emulsion and good dispersion of the fillers have been obtained, with stirring between 2500 rpm and 3000 rpm. Cooling is continued with scraper blade stirring and under vacuum if necessary. At 33°C, the production vessel is inerted until the end of production, then at a temperature below 33°C, the starting materials of phase D are introduced with stirring with a turbine efficiency of between 2500 rpm and 3000 rpm. The stirring is continued until an emulsion which conforms under a microscope is obtained. Once this step has been reached, the starting materials of phases E1, E2 and E3 are introduced in this order and stirring is performed with a turbine efficiency of between 2500 rpm and 3000 rpm for 15 minutes.Production process for phase B:

[0270] The starting materials of phase B are introduced into a second vessel and heated to a temperature of 65-70°C, with a deflocculator. The medium is homogenised until it has melted and completely solubilised.

[0271] Phase B is transferred into the main vessel for emulsification.Comparative example - Compositions 1 to 4

[0272] Compositions 1 to 4 below are prepared.

[0273] PhaseComposition1(invention)2(invention)3(comparative)4(comparative)A1Water / Aquaq.s. 100q.s. 100q.s. 100q.s. 100A1Glycerol3333A1Propanediol2.52.52.52.5A1Caprylyl glycol0.30.30.30.3A1Active agent(s)0.4130.4130.4130.413A1Sodium Stearoyl Glutamate---0.5A2Polyquaternium-670.110.110.110.11A2Sclerotium gum0.10.1--BActive agent(s)0.30.30.30.3BIsopropyl myristate4444BIsopropyl palmitate3.53.53.53.5BDiisopropyl sebacate4444BC12-15 Alkyl benzoate4.84.84.84.8BButylmethoxydibenzoylmethane(Parsol 1789 from DSM Nutritional Products)3.53.53.53.5BEthylhexyl triazone(Uvinul T150 from BASF)4.54.54.54.5BDrometrizole trisiloxane(Mexoryl XL from Noveal)5555BBis(ethylhexyloxyphenol)methoxyphenyltriazine(Tinosorb S from BASF)3333BC12-C-22 Alkyl acrylate / hydroxyethyl acrylate copolymer(Polymer 1)2---BStearic acid---1.5C1Filler(s)1111C1Active agent(s)2222C2Fragrance0.20.20.20.2C2Water / Aqua0.8960.8960.8960.896C2Pentylene glycol0.10.10.10.1C2Tocopherol1111DDenat. alcohol8888E1Ascorbic acid12121212E2pH adjusterqs pH = 6qs pH = 6qs pH = 6qs pH = 6E3Phenylbenzimidazolesulfonic acid(Eusolex 232 from Merck)0.750.750.750.75Results obtained

[0274] The stability results obtained are as follows.

[0275] Composition1(invention)2(invention)3(comparative)4(comparative)Macroscopic appearanceAfter 24 hours at 25°CSmooth, shiny, homogeneous ivory-coloured fluid.No phase separation, no release.After 2 months at 4°C and 25°CSmooth, shiny, homogeneous ivory-coloured fluid.No phase separation, no release.After 2 months at 45°CSmooth, shiny, homogeneous light-brown-coloured fluid.No phase separation, no release.After 24 hours at 25°CSmooth, shiny, homogeneous ivory-coloured fluid.No phase separation, no release.After 2 months at 4°C and 25°CSmooth, shiny, homogeneous ivory-coloured fluid.No phase separation, no release.After 2 months at 45°CSmooth, shiny, homogeneous light-brown-coloured fluid.No phase separation, no release.After 24 hours at 25°CSmooth, shiny, homogeneous ivory-coloured fluid.No phase separation, no release.After 1 month at 4°C, 25°C, 45°CSignificant release of the fatty phase in the lower part of the composition.After 24 hours at 25°CSmooth, shiny, homogeneous ivory-coloured fluid.No phase separation, no release.After 5 days at 4°C, 25°C, 45°CColour change to yellow and release of the fatty phase in the upper part of the composition.Microscopic appearanceAfter 24 hours at 25°CUniform, fine emulsion with sharp edges.After 2 months at 4°C, 25°C, 45°CUniform, fine emulsion with sharp, leaking edges.After 24 hours at 25°CNon-uniform, medium emulsion with sharp edges.After 2 months at 4°C, 25°C, 45°CNon-uniform, medium emulsion with sharp edges.After 24 hours at 25°CNon-uniform, medium emulsion, loose edges.After 1 month at 4°C, 25°C, 45°CNon-uniform, medium emulsion, loose edges.After 24 hours at 25°CNon-uniform, coarse emulsion, presence of holes in emulsion, loose edges.After 5 days at 25°CNon-uniform, coarse emulsion, presence of holes in emulsion, loose edges.

[0276] Compositions 1 and 2 in accordance with the invention exhibit better stability over time and better temperature stability than Comparative Compositions 3 and 4 which do not contain scleroglucan gum.

Claims

Composition, in particular cosmetic or dermatological composition, comprising:a) at least one UV-screening agent;b) - at least 1% by weight of ascorbic acid relative to the total weight of the composition; andc) at least one scleroglucan gum.Composition according to Claim 1, in which the UV-screening agent(s) are chosen from lipophilic organic UV-screening agents, hydrophilic organic UV-screening agents and inorganic UV-screening agents.Composition according to either one of Claims 1 and 2, in which the lipophilic organic UV-screening agent(s) are chosen from cinnamic compounds; anthranilate compounds; salicylic compounds; dibenzoylmethane compounds; benzylidenecamphor compounds; benzophenone compounds; β,β-diphenylacrylate compounds; triazine compounds; benzotriazole compounds; benzalmalonate compounds; benzimidazole derivatives; imidazoline compounds; bis-benzazolyl compounds; methylenebis(hydroxyphenyl)benzotriazole compounds; benzoxazole compounds; screening polymers and screening silicones; α-alkylstyrene-based dimers; 4,4-diarylbutadiene compounds and mixtures thereof; preferably salicylic compounds, dibenzoylmethane compounds, benzylidenecamphor compounds; benzophenone compounds; triazine compounds; benzotriazole compounds; and mixtures thereof.Composition according to any one of Claims 1 to 3, comprising bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine.Composition according to any one of Claims 1 to 4, in which the hydrophilic organic UV-screening agent(s) are chosen from water-soluble organic UV-screening agents and water-dispersible organic UV-screening agents.Composition according to any one of Claims 1 to 5, in which the water-soluble UV-screening agent(s) are chosen from benzene-1,4-bis(3-methylidene-10-camphorsulfonic acid) (INCI name: Terephthalylidene Dicamphor Sulfonic Acid); 1,4-bis-benzimidazolyl-phenylene-3,3',5,5'-tetrasulfonic acid (INCI name: Disodium Phenyl Dibenzimidazole Tetrasulfonate); 2-phenyl-1H-benzimidazole-5-sulfonic acid (INCI name: Phenylbenzimidazole Sulfonic Acid); and salts thereof; preferably chosen from benzene-1,4-bis(3-methylidene-10-camphorsulfonic acid) (INCI name: Terephthalylidene Dicamphor Sulfonic Acid); 2-phenyl-1H-benzimidazole-5-sulfonic acid (INCI name: Phenylbenzimidazole Sulfonic Acid); and salts thereof.Composition according to any one of Claims 1 to 6, in which the water-dispersible organic UV-screening agent(s) is (are) chosen from methylene bis-benzotriazolyl tetramethylbutylphenol in the form of an aqueous dispersion of micronised particles having an average particle size which ranges from 0.01 to 5 μm, and more preferentially from 0.01 to 2 μm, and more particularly from 0.020 to 2 μm, with at least one alkylpolyglycoside surfactant having the structure CnH2n+1O(C6H10O5)xH in which n is an integer from 8 to 16 and x is the average degree of polymerisation of the unit (C6H10O5) and ranges from 1.4 to 1.6; methylene bis-benzotriazolyl tetramethylbutylphenol in the form of an aqueous dispersion of micronised particles having an average particle size which ranges from 0.02 to 2 μm, and more preferentially from 0.01 to 1.5 μm, and more particularly from 0.02 to 1 μm, in the presence of at least one mono(C8-C20)alkyl ester of polyglycerol having a degree of glycerol polymerisation of at least 5; bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine in its water-dispersible form and having the INCI name Bis-Ethylhexyloxyphenol Methoxyphenyl Triazine (and) Acrylates / C12-22 Alkyl Methacrylate Copolymer; symmetrical triazine screening agents substituted with naphthalenyl groups or polyphenyl groups used in micronised form (average particle size of 0.02 to 3 µm), and in particular in aqueous dispersion form, in particular 2,4,6-tris(biphenyl)triazine and 2,4,6-tris(ter-phenyl)triazine.Composition according to any one of Claims 1 to 7, in which the ascorbic acid is L-ascorbic acid.Composition according to any one of Claims 1 to 8, comprising at least 5% by weight, preferably at least 7% by weight, of ascorbic acid, relative to the total weight of the composition.Composition according to any one of Claims 1 to 9, comprising from 1% to 30% by weight of ascorbic acid, preferably from 5% to 25% by weight, more preferentially from 7% to 20% by weight, and even more preferentially from 8% to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.Composition according to any one of Claims 1 to 10, in which the scleroglucan gum(s) represent from 0.01% to 10% by weight, more preferentially from 0.05% to 5% by weight, and even more preferentially from 0.1% to 3% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.Composition according to any one of Claims 1 to 11, comprising at least one lipophilic polymer comprising monomer units of formulae (A) and (B):in which:R1, independently of one another, are chosen from alkyl or alkenyl radicals;with at least 60% by weight of the R1groups being radicals chosen from stearyl and behenyl radicals, the weight percentage relating to the sum of all the R1groups present in the polymer;the weight ratio of the sum of all the hydroxyethyl acrylate units to the sum of all the acrylate units bearing the R1group ranges from 1:30 to 1: 1; andthe sum of the total of units A and B is at least 95% by weight relative to the total weight of the polymer.Composition according to Claim 12, in which, in the lipophilic acrylic polymer, R1is constituted of an alkyl radical, preferably a C16-C22alkyl radical, and more preferentially a behenyl or stearyl radical.Composition according to either one of Claims 12 and 13, in which, in the lipophilic acrylic polymer, at least 70% by weight of the R1groups are behenyl or stearyl radicals, preferentially at least 80% by weight, more preferentially at least 90% by weight.Composition according to any one of Claims 12 to 14, in which, in the lipophilic acrylic polymer, all the R1groups are behenyl or stearyl radicals.Composition according to any one of Claims 12 to 15, in which, in the lipophilic acrylic polymer, the weight ratio of the sum of all the hydroxyethyl acrylate units to the sum of all the acrylate units bearing the R1group ranges from 1:15 to 1:1, preferentially ranges from 1:10 to 1:4.Composition according to any one of Claims 12 to 16, in which the lipophilic acrylic polymer has a number-average molecular weight Mn ranging from 5000 to 9000 g / mol.Composition according to any one of Claims 12 to 17, in which the lipophilic acrylic polymer has a melting point ranging from 40°C to 70°C and preferentially ranging from 45°C to 67°C.Composition according to any one of Claims 12 to 18, in which, in the lipophilic acrylic polymer, at least 60% by weight of the R1groups are stearyl radicals, and said polymer has a melting point ranging from 40 to 60°C, and preferentially ranging from 45 to 55°C.Composition according to any one of Claims 12 to 19, in which, in the lipophilic acrylic polymer, at least 60% by weight of the R1groups are behenyl radicals, and said polymer has a melting point ranging from 60°C to 70°C, and preferentially ranging from 63°C to 67°C.Composition according to any one of Claims 12 to 20, in which the lipophilic acrylic polymer(s) are present in an active material content ranging from 0.05% to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.1% to 5% by weight and preferably ranging from 0.2% to 3% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.Composition according to any one of Claims 1 to 21, in the form of an emulsion, preferably in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion.

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