Alcoholic extract of the flowering aerial parts of tansy, tanacetum vulgare, method for obtaining same, and cosmetic composition containing same

Abstract

The invention relates to an extract of the flowering aerial parts of tansy, Tanacetum vulgare, the method for obtaining same, and the cosmetic composition containing same, as well as the different cosmetic uses thereof. It has anti-ageing cosmetic properties that are similar to the properties of retinol but without the drawbacks associated with retinol. Specifically, it leads to a significant increase in epidermal thickness, strengthens the barrier function by enhancing Loricrin synthesis, and promotes tissue renewal. It has also been proven to reduce the progression of skin ageing.

Description

[0001] Alcoholic extract of flowering aerial parts of Tansy, Tanacetum vulgare, its production process, and cosmetic composition containing it

[0002] The invention relates to an extract of the flowering aerial parts of Tansy, Tanacetum vulgare, its process for obtaining, a cosmetic composition containing it, as well as various cosmetic uses.

[0003] The skin is mainly made up of three layers, namely, starting from the most superficial, the epidermis, the dermis and the hypodermis.

[0004] The epidermis plays a major role in protecting the skin and maintaining its proper functioning, and it is the body's first barrier to protect it from the environment.

[0005] As a result, it is subject to numerous external attacks which can lead to uncomfortable skin reactions or even, in the case of very intense or more serious reactions, to skin irritation and / or inflammation.

[0006] Skin reactions of discomfort, or alternatively reactions of irritation and / or inflammation of the skin, can be induced in particular by contact with chemical products such as cleansers, or come from mechanical actions such as shaving, exfoliation, peeling, hair removal.

[0007] There is still a need for new soothing agents in the cosmetic field. There is also a need for new agents capable of treating and / or reducing skin irritation and / or inflammation reactions in the dermatological field.

[0008] The dermis is a connective tissue that provides both cohesion and nutrition to the skin.

[0009] Skin aging results from two distinct and independent processes that involve intrinsic or extrinsic factors.

[0010] Intrinsic or chronobiological aging corresponds to “normal” or physiological aging linked to age.

[0011] Extrinsic aging corresponds to aging caused generally by the environment and more particularly to photoaging due to exposure to the sun. The present invention concerns intrinsic or physiological skin aging as well as extrinsic skin aging.

[0012] Skin aging results from a transformation of connective tissues and a reduction in cellular regeneration capacity. This effect manifests itself through the appearance of fine lines and scars over time. Microcirculation decreases in the superficial dermis. Macromolecules such as collagen, elastin, and glycosaminoglycans, of which hyaluronic acid is one of the constituents, are chemically modified. The very thickness of the dermis regresses, the fibers are degraded, and the skin loses its biomechanical and elastic properties. Chemical and enzymatic oxidation phenomena increase with age and lead to an increase in bridging reactions between fibers such as collagen fibers.

[0013] The changes associated with aging can manifest themselves in different ways, including:

[0014] - a disorganization of elastin fibers leading to a loss of firmness, flexibility and elasticity or by the appearance of telangiectasias;

[0015] - loss of radiance due to reduced microcirculation and a slowdown in cell renewal in the epidermis and the appearance of fine lines or wrinkles;

[0016] - yellowing of the skin which develops a parchment-like appearance accompanied by the appearance of pigment spots associated with a dysfunction of melanin synthesis (or melanogenesis);

[0017] - dry skin resulting from a reduction in the barrier function of the stratum corneum and a slowdown in epidermal renewal.

[0018] There is a need to provide a polyfunctional active agent capable of acting on a set of causes of skin alterations due to aging and / or a modification of physiological mechanisms linked to aging or related.

[0019] However, the Applicant has now found that an alcoholic extract of flowering aerial parts of Tansy, Tanacetum vulgare, obtained by a particular process, exhibits, through stimulation or inhibition of physiological mechanisms, interesting activities with regard to skin aging and the reduction of inflammation.

[0020] Indeed, as demonstrated in examples, the alcoholic extract of flowering aerial parts of Tansy, Tanacetum vulgare, according to the invention has interesting cosmetic properties: it allows a significant stimulation of biological pathways linked to skin aging and the expression of CCL2 and CCL5, molecules forming part of SASP5, in senescent fibroblasts. It has properties similar to those of retinol without the drawbacks of retinol. It allows a significant increase in the thickness of the epidermis, the strengthening of the barrier function by increasing the synthesis of Loricrin and allows an increase in tissue renewal.

[0021] On the other hand, the extract has soothing cosmetic properties because it inhibits the biological pathways of skin inflammation and that of interferons, immunomodulatory cytokines known for their regulatory role in skin inflammation.

[0022] The invention therefore relates, according to a first aspect, to an alcoholic extract of flowering aerial parts of Tansy, Tanacetum vulgare, comprising at least sugars, polysaccharides and caffeic derivatives.

[0023] The invention also relates, according to a second aspect, to a method for extracting flowering aerial parts of Tansy, Tanacetum vulgare, comprising at least the following steps: a) grinding the flowering aerial parts of Tansy, Tanacetum vulgare, b) at least one, preferably at least two extractions of said ground flowering aerial parts in the presence of a first alcoholic solvent, each extraction being followed by a filtration step; c) mixing the liquid filtrates from the extractions of step b); d) filtration of the mixture obtained in c) and, optionally, decolorization of the filtrate obtained by adoption on activated carbon; e) dilution in a second alcoholic solvent other than said first alcoholic solvent of the mixture obtained in d), and removal of the first alcoholic solvent.

[0024] The invention also relates to an alcoholic extract of flowering aerial parts of Tansy, Tanacetum vulgare, which can be obtained by such a process.

[0025] The invention also relates to a cosmetic use of an alcoholic extract of flowering aerial parts of Tansy, Tanacetum vulgare, obtained by such a process, for strengthening the barrier and hydration function or as a soothing agent. The invention further relates to a cosmetic composition comprising, in a cosmetically acceptable vehicle, an alcoholic extract of flowering aerial parts of Tansy, Tanacetum vulgare, according to the first aspect. By cosmetically acceptable vehicle is meant a medium compatible with the skin, mucous membranes and integuments. Preferably, the cosmetic composition according to the invention is suitable for topical application.

[0026] By "cosmetic" is meant, within the meaning of the present invention, a non-pharmaceutical, non-therapeutic, non-prophylactic use which is not intended for therapeutic use, nor to prevent or treat symptoms linked to a therapeutic condition of the skin.

[0027] An "alcoholic" extract is defined as an extract obtained by extraction with a solvent containing alcohol. Conversely, an "aqueous" extract is defined as an extract in which water is the only solvent.

[0028] Figures

[0029] Figures 1A and 1B illustrate the decrease in CCL2 expression (qPCR) and CCL5 release (assay) after treatment of senescent fibroblasts with the Tansy extract according to the invention.

[0030] Figure 2 illustrates the increase in epidermal thickness after treatment of the explants with the Tansy extract according to the invention.

[0031] Figure 3 illustrates the strengthening of the barrier function of explants treated with the Tansy extract according to the invention.

[0032] Figure 4 illustrates the tissue renewal enhanced by the action of the Tansy extract according to the invention.

[0033] The raw material used consists of the flowering aerial parts of Tansy, Tanacetum vulgare.

[0034] Tansy, also called Bitterweed, Bitter Herb, St. Mark's Herb, Sweet Tanaceous, is a plant belonging to the Asteraceae family. It is an aromatic, perennial, herbaceous plant, reaching 1 m at a rapid growth rate.

[0035] The leaves are alternate and deeply divided and the flowers are yellow, numerous and button-like, occurring in dense clusters, from August to September.

[0036] It is native to Europe and northern Asia and naturalized in North and South America. It is a species that grows up to 1500m altitude, in meadows, in thickets of bushes, on clearings and edges and prefers a sandy, loamy, well-drained soil, and full sun.

[0037] The flowering aerial parts of Tansy, Tanacetum vulgare used according to the invention are typically chosen from flowers, stems and mixtures thereof. Preferably, the flowering aerial parts used are a mixture of flowers and stems of Tansy, Tanacetum vulgare. Preferably, these flowering aerial parts are previously dried, then crushed or reduced to pieces in the usual manner, to preferably be in the form of a powder less than 2 cm in size.

[0038] The dry extract of flowering aerial parts of Tansy, Tanacetum vulgare, which is the subject of the present invention, is composed of several families of primary and secondary metabolites of interest.

[0039] Among the primary metabolites, the following simple sugars were identified and measured: glucose, fructose, sucrose and polysaccharides.

[0040] By "simple sugars" we mean monosaccharides or disaccharides, while "polysaccharides" designate polymers made up of several monosaccharides linked together by osidic bonds.

[0041] For the purposes of the invention, the generic term “sugars” refers to simple sugars as opposed to polysaccharides.

[0042] Among the secondary metabolites identified, caffeic derivatives are particularly targeted in this extract, notably 3,5-dicafeoylquinic acid and its isomers as well as chlorogenic acid and its isomers. Flavonoids are also present in smaller quantities.

[0043] The alcoholic extract of the flowering aerial parts of Tansy, Tanacetum vulgare, which is the subject of the present invention, comprises in particular at least sugars, polysaccharides and caffeic derivatives.

[0044] In particular, the alcoholic extract of Tansy, Tanacetum vulgare of the invention comprises:

[0045] 30 to 60% by weight of sugars and polysaccharides, preferably 40 to 50% by weight,

[0046] 5 to 20% by weight of coffee derivatives, preferably 11 to 14% by weight, the percentages being expressed by weight, relative to the total weight of the dry extract. In particular, the alcoholic extract of Tansy, Tanacetum vulgare of the invention comprises:

[0047] 15 to 30% by weight of sugars, preferably 20 to 27% by weight,

[0048] 15 to 30% by weight of polysaccharides, preferably 17 to 25% by weight, and

[0049] 5 to 20% by weight of coffee derivatives, preferably 11 to 14% by weight, the percentages being expressed by weight, relative to the total weight of the dry extract.

[0050] In particular, the alcoholic extract of Tansy, Tanacetum vulgare of the invention comprises:

[0051] 1 to 10% by weight of glucose, preferably 3 to 8% by weight,

[0052] 5 to 15% by weight of fructose, preferably 6 to 12% by weight,

[0053] 5 to 15% by weight of sucrose, preferably 7 to 10% by weight,

[0054] 15 to 30% by weight of polysaccharides, preferably 17 to 25% by weight, and

[0055] 5 to 20% by weight of coffee derivatives, preferably 11 to 14% by weight, the percentages being expressed by weight, relative to the total weight of the dry extract.

[0056] In particular, sugars include glucose, fructose and sucrose. Advantageously, these are present in the following proportions:

[0057] 1 to 10% by weight of glucose, preferably 3 to 8% by weight,

[0058] 5 to 15% by weight of fructose, preferably 6 to 12% by weight,

[0059] 5 to 15% by weight of sucrose, preferably 7 to 10% by weight, the percentages being expressed by weight, relative to the total weight of the dry extract.

[0060] In particular, the alcoholic extract of Tansy, Tanacetum vulgare of the invention comprises:

[0061] 30 to 60% by weight of sugars and polysaccharides, preferably 40 to 50% by weight,

[0062] 1 to 15% by weight of dicaffeoylquinic acid, preferably 2 to 8% by weight,

[0063] 1 to 10% by weight of chlorogenic acid, preferably 3 to 5% by weight, and the percentages being expressed by weight, relative to the total dry weight of the extract.

[0064] In particular, the alcoholic extract of Tansy, Tanacetum vulgare of the invention comprises:

[0065] 30 to 60% by weight of sugars and polysaccharides, preferably 40 to 50% by weight, 1 to 10% by weight of 3,5-dicafeoylquinic acid, preferably ! to 6% by weight,

[0066] 0.1 to 5% by weight of 3,4-dicafeoylquinic acid, preferably 0.5 to 2% by weight,

[0067] 1 to 10% by weight of chlorogenic acid, preferably 3 to 5% by weight, and the percentages being expressed by weight, relative to the total dry weight of the extract

[0068] In particular, the dry alcoholic extract of Tansy, Tanacetum vulgare of the invention further comprises between 0.1 to 10%, preferably between 1 and 5% by weight of proteins (measured according to the method well known to those skilled in the art Nitrogen*6.25), the percentages being expressed by weight, relative to the total weight of the dry extract.

[0069] It also includes minerals in the form of ash between 0.1 and 10%, preferably between 1 and 5% by weight, the percentages being expressed by weight, relative to the total weight of the dry extract.

[0070] It also comprises a lipophilic fraction between 1 and 10%, preferably between 4 and 8% by weight, the percentages being expressed by weight, relative to the total weight of the dry extract.

[0071] By "caffeic derivatives" is meant all the isomers of caffeoylquinic acid (chlorogenic acid) and dicaffeoylquinic acid (3,5-dicafeoylquinic acid and 3,4-dicafeoylquinic acid) having an acid function present in the extract according to the invention.

[0072] 3,5-Dicaffeoylquinic acid (I), 3,4-Dicaffeoylquinic acid (II) or chlorogenic acid (III) are compounds with the following structures:

[0073] It is therefore to the applicant's credit that he has succeeded in preparing an extract of flowering aerial parts of Tansy, Tanacetum vulgare, including in particular sugars, polysaccharides and coffee derivatives, which makes it specific.

[0074] The extract of the flowering aerial parts of Tansy, Tanacetum vulgare, contains various families of primary and secondary metabolites.

[0075] The alcoholic extract of flowering aerial parts of Tansy, Tanacetum vulgare of the invention may in particular be obtained by means of a process for extracting flowering aerial parts of Tansy, Tanacetum vulgare comprising the following steps: a) grinding the flowering aerial parts of Tansy, Tanacetum vulgare, b) at least one, preferably at least two extractions of said ground flowering aerial parts in the presence of a first alcoholic solvent, each extraction being followed by a filtration step; c) mixing the liquid filtrates from the extractions of step b); d) filtration of the mixture obtained in c) and, optionally, decolorization of the filtrate obtained by adoption on activated carbon; e) dilution in a second alcoholic solvent other than the first solvent of the mixture obtained in d), and removal of the first alcoholic solvent.

[0076] Preferably, the flowering aerial parts of Tansy, Tanacetum vulgare used in step a) are and are typically chosen from flowers, leaves, stems and mixtures thereof.

[0077] Preferably, they are dried.

[0078] In particular, they are crushed or reduced to pieces, for example to a fineness of less than 2 cm, by any means known to those skilled in the art.

[0079] In step b), the crushed flowering aerial parts of Tansy, Tanacetum vulgare are subjected to at least one, preferably at least two extractions by one or more alcoholic solvents, for example chosen from monoalcohols comprising from 1 to 4 carbon atoms (in C1-C4), such as for example methanol, ethanol or isopropanol.

[0080] Preferably, the first alcoholic solvent is a monoalcohol comprising from 2 to 4 carbon atoms, more preferably ethanol.

[0081] Preferably, the first mono-alcoholic solvent used in a mixture of at least 90% with water, preferably at least 95% with water.

[0082] Preferably, ethanol is used in a mixture of at least 90% with water, preferably at least 95% with water.

[0083] In particular, ethanol is used in a 96% mixture with water.

[0084] The extraction is generally carried out by immersing and gently agitating the crushed flowering aerial parts of Tansy, Tanacetum vulgare, in one or more of the solvents mentioned above for a period of between 1 and 6 hours, preferably between 1 and 3 hours, at a temperature of between 40°C and 80°C, preferably between 50 and 70°C, more preferably between 55 and 65°C.

[0085] Preferably, the flowering aerial parts of Tansy, Tanacetum vulgare are extracted in the first alcoholic solvent with a ratio of between 1 / 20 and 1 / 5, preferably between 0.8 / 10 and 1.2 / 10, preferably 1 / 8 by mass of flowering aerial parts relative to the mass of the first alcoholic solvent.

[0086] Extraction step b) is followed by filtration, for example on a 100 μm sieve, to remove plant residues. According to a preferred embodiment, step b) involves at least two extractions. In this case, each extraction is followed by a filtration step.

[0087] At the end of extraction step(s) b), the liquid filtrates are recovered and mixed.

[0088] The filtrate or mixture of filtrates obtained at the end of step c) is then filtered again in order to remove the insoluble substances: this is step d). Preferably, the filtration of the extract obtained in c) is carried out on a 15 μm sieve or filtration membrane. A liquid filtrate is thus obtained. This liquid filtrate is an alcoholic fraction.

[0089] Preferably, between steps d) and e), a step of decolorizing the filtrate obtained in d) is added. The decolorization can be carried out by adsorption of the pigments present in the filtrate on activated carbon with stirring for a period of between 1 and 6 hours, preferably between 2 and 4 hours, at room temperature. Preferably, the activated carbon represents 30% by mass relative to the dry matter of the extract. This decolorization step can be followed by a step of filtration of the decolorized filtrate obtained, on a 4 μm sieve or filtration membrane.

[0090] The order of the steps of removing the first solvent and diluting the filtrate in a second solvent is immaterial. In particular, the solvent present in the liquid filtrate may be removed, and then the remaining filtrate is diluted in a second alcoholic solvent. Alternatively, the liquid filtrate is first diluted in a second alcoholic solvent, and the solvents are then removed. Alternatively, the dilution of the filtrate and the removal of the solvents may be simultaneous.

[0091] The second alcoholic solvent used in step e) is called "other alcoholic solvent", because it is different from the first alcoholic solvent used in step a). Taking this limitation into account, the second alcoholic solvent is typically chosen from the same group as that of step a), i.e. from C1-C4 monoalcohols and diols such as, for example, propylene glycol, 1,3-propanediol or dipropylene glycol.

[0092] Preferably, the dilution is carried out in a diol, preferably 1,3-propanediol.

[0093] Indeed, advantageously, the dilution of step e) is carried out in 1,3-propanediol before elimination which is done by evaporation.

[0094] Preferably, the removal of the first solvent from step e) is carried out by evaporation, in particular using a rotary or falling flow evaporator. Step e) provides for the step of removing the first alcoholic solvent used in step a) so that the latter is present in a concentration of less than 5% in the extract, preferably less than 1%, more preferably less than 0.5%.

[0095] The extract may be left to settle for at least 6 hours, preferably for at least 8 hours. More preferably, the extract may be settled for a period of between 6 and 18 hours, preferably between 6 and 12 hours. The settlement may be carried out at a temperature of between 0 and 25°C, preferably between 1 and 10°C, preferably between 2 and 5°C.

[0096] Then the extract is filtered through a sieve or filtration membrane, preferably 4 µm.

[0097] Preferably, the alcoholic extract of flowering aerial parts of Tansy, Tanacetum vulgare, according to the invention is capable of being obtained by a process comprising the following steps: a) grinding the flowering aerial parts of Tansy, Tanacetum vulgare, b) at least one, preferably at least two extractions of said ground flowering aerial parts in the presence of a first alcoholic solvent, each extraction being followed by a filtration step; c) mixing the liquid filtrates from the extractions of step b); d) filtration of the mixture obtained in c) and, optionally, decolorization of the filtrate obtained by adoption on activated carbon; e) dilution in a second alcoholic solvent other than the first alcoholic solvent of the mixture obtained in d), and removal of the first alcoholic solvent.

[0098] Advantageously, the extract used according to the invention is light in color.

[0099] Also, said extract is in a sufficiently concentrated form to be able to be used without causing the formulation problems usually encountered at the concentrations necessary to obtain activity in cosmetic or dermatological compositions in the form of an emulsion, and without having a dark color, unlike plant extracts obtained by usual processes, when they are in concentrated form.

[0100] In particular, before evaporation of the ethanol, the extract of flowering aerial parts of Tansy, Tanacetum vulgare, is diluted in 1,3-propanediol to obtain a composition of approximately 10% by weight of dry extract of Tansy, Tanacetum vulgare and 90% by weight of 1,3-propanediol. Step e) further provides the step of removing the first alcoholic solvent used in step a) so that the latter is present in a concentration of less than 5% in the extract, preferably less than 1%, more preferably less than 0.5%.

[0101] Therefore, the extract according to the invention can be used directly for the preparation of a cosmetic composition.

[0102] According to another aspect, the invention relates to the cosmetic use of an alcoholic extract of flowering aerial parts of Tansy, Tanacetum vulgare, according to the invention, as a soothing active ingredient.

[0103] According to another aspect, the invention relates to the cosmetic use of an alcoholic extract of flowering aerial parts of Tansy, Tanacetum vulgare, according to the invention, for preventing and / or reducing skin aging.

[0104] Indeed, advantageously, the Applicant has found that the alcoholic extract of flowering aerial parts of Tansy, Tanacetum vulgare according to the invention possesses several activities of interest with regard to preventive or restorative physiological mechanisms linked to skin aging or inflammation.

[0105] The Applicant has notably found, advantageously, that the alcoholic extract of flowering aerial parts of Tansy, Tanacetum vulgare according to the invention allows the expression of CCL2 and CCL5, molecules forming part of SASP5, in senescent fibroblasts. It thus makes it possible to reduce the spread of skin senescence and therefore has anti-aging cosmetic properties.

[0106] The extract according to the invention has properties similar to those of retinol without the adverse effects of retinol. H allows a significant increase in the thickness of the epidermis, the strengthening of the barrier function by increasing the synthesis of Loricrin and allows an increase in tissue renewal.

[0107] On the other hand, the extract according to the invention inhibits biological pathways such as that of interferons, immunomodulatory cytokines known for their regulatory role in skin inflammation. It also decreases the expression of interleukin 33 (IL33) and CXCL14, respectively a cytokine and a chemokine, also participating in skin inflammation. The extract therefore plays a role in the regulation of skin inflammation and, consequently, is recognized as having soothing cosmetic properties. According to yet another aspect, the invention relates to a cosmetic composition comprising, in a cosmetically acceptable vehicle, an alcoholic extract of flowering aerial parts of Tansy, Tanacetum vulgare according to the preceding aspects. Preferably, the cosmetic composition is suitable for topical application.

[0108] Preferably, said extract is present in the cosmetic or dermatological composition in an amount of 0.001 to 10% by weight, relative to the total dry weight of the composition, in particular in an amount of 0.01 to 10% by weight, preferably 0.1 to 5% by weight. Said cosmetic composition may in particular be suitable for topical application.

[0109] The cosmetic composition according to the invention may be in the form of a care and / or makeup composition for keratin materials, preferably for the face.

[0110] In particular, the composition of the invention may be in the form of an anti-aging skin care composition, in particular for the face.

[0111] According to another embodiment, a composition of the invention may be in the form of a facial makeup composition, in particular in the form of a foundation, a foundation base or a tinted cream.

[0112] The cosmetic composition according to the invention may also comprise a solvent chosen according to the different ingredients and the administration form.

[0113] Examples include water (preferably demineralized water or floral water), an alcohol such as ethanol.

[0114] Said cosmetic composition may also comprise, in addition to the extract according to the invention, at least one additive customary in the field, such as for example at least one compound chosen from an emollient or humectant agent, a gelling and / or thickening agent, a surfactant, an oil, an active agent, a colorant, a preservative, an antioxidant agent, an active agent, an organic or inorganic powder, a sunscreen and a perfume.

[0115] - One or more humectant agent(s), such as polyols (glycerin, diglycerin, propylene glycol, propanediol, caprylyl glycol, pentylene glycol, hexanediol), sugars, glycosaminoglycans such as hyaluronic acid and its salts and esters; and polyquaterniums. Said humectant agent will be present in the composition at a content of the order of 0.1 to 30%, preferably 0.005 to 10% by total weight of the composition.

[0116] - One or more emollient agent(s) which may be chosen for example from esters such as jojoba esters, fatty acid and fatty alcohol esters (octyldodecyl myristate, triethylhexanoin, Dicaprylyl carbonate, Isostearyl isostearate, caprylic / capric triglyceride), butters such as shea butter (butyrospemum parkii butter extract, shea butter ethyl esters) or moringa butter (moringa oil / hydrogenated moringa oil esters), waxes (acacia decurrens flower wax & helianthus annuus cera seed wax, Cl 0-18 triglycerides), vegetable oils, phytosqualane, alkanes (undecane, tridecane)

[0117] Said emollient agent will be present in the composition at a content of the order of 0.1 to 30%, preferably 0.5 to 10% by total weight of the composition.

[0118] - One or more gelling and / or thickening agents of the aqueous phase, chosen for example from cellulose derivatives, gums of plant origin (guar, carob, alginates, carrageenans, pectins), of microbial origin (xanthan), clays (laponite), homo- and copolymers, crosslinked or not, hydrophilic or amphiphilic, of acryloylmethylpropane sulfonic acid (AMPS) and / or acrylamide and / or acrylic acid and / or salts or esters of acrylic acid (such as Ammonium AMP / VP Copolymer, Hydroxyethyl Acrylate / AMPS Copolymer, Sodium Acrylate / AMPS Copolymer, Acrylamide / AMPS Copolymer, Acrylates Copolymer, Acrylates / C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, Polyacrylate crosspolymer-6, sodium polyacrylate)

[0119] Said gelling and / or thickening agent will be present in the composition at a content of the order of 0.1 to 10% by total weight of the composition.

[0120] - One or more surfactant(s), in particular:

[0121] *anionic surfactants such as isethionates, taurates, sarcosinates, glycinates, glutamates, phosphates such as C20-22 alkyl phosphate

[0122] * amphoteric surfactants such as betaine derivatives, amphoacetates

[0123] * non-ionic surfactants such as polyglycerol derivatives, glucoside derivatives (such as cetearyl glucoside, cl2-20 alkyl glucoside, arachidyl glucoside, caprylyl / capryl glucoside, decyl glucoside, lauryl glucoside), xyloside derivatives, lecithins. Said surfactant will be present in a content of the order of 0.1 to 15%, preferably 0.5 to 10% by weight, relative to the total dry weight of the composition;

[0124] - One or more film-forming agent(s) such as polymers of natural origin, optionally modified, may be chosen from shellac resin, sandarac gum, gum arabic (ACACIA SENEGAL GUM), dammars, elemis, copals, cellulose polymers, polymers extracted from the fruit of Caesalpinia spinosa and / or the algae Kappaphycus alvarezii, and mixtures thereof.

[0125] Said film-forming agent will be present in a content of the order of 0.1 to 15%, preferably 0.5 to 10% by weight, relative to the total dry weight of the composition.

[0126] - One or more coloring agent(s) chosen from pigments, pearlescent agents, soluble dyes, preferably soluble in water. The pigments may be white or colored, mineral and / or organic. The mineral pigments may be chosen from zirconium or cerium oxides, as well as zinc, iron or chromium oxides, titanium dioxide. The pearlescent agents may be chosen from pearlescent pigments, such as titanium mica coated with iron oxide, titanium mica coated with bismuth oxychloride, titanium mica coated with chromium oxide, titanium mica coated with an organic dye, as well as pearlescent pigments based on bismuth oxychloride.

[0127] Said coloring agent will be present in a content of the order of 0.01 to 20%, preferably 2 to 15% by weight, relative to the total dry weight of the composition.

[0128] - One or more filler(s) chosen from lauroyl-lysine, starch, boron nitride and silica

[0129] Said filler will be present in a content of the order of 0.1 to 10%, preferably 0.5 to 7% by weight, relative to the total dry weight of the composition.

[0130] -One or more active agent(s) of natural, biotechnological or synthetic origin having biological activity and having effectiveness on the skin via biological sites, for example chosen from vitamins such as vitamin C and its derivatives (ascorbyl glucoside, 3-o-ethyl ascorbic acid, ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate), vitamin A and its derivatives, vitamin E and its derivatives, vitamin B3 or Niacinamide, panthenol, trace elements, allantoin, adenosine, peptides (Palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1, Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-4, Acetyl Dipeptide-1 Cetyl Ester, Acetyl Tetrapeptide-5), plant extracts (glycyrrhiza glabra extract, centella asiatica leaf extract, secale cereale seed extract), yeast extracts, alpha hydroxy acids such as glycolic acid or lactic acid, tranexamic acid and its derivatives such as cetyl tranexamic ester etc.

[0131] Said active agent will be present in the composition at a content of the order of 0.1 to 10% by total weight of the composition.

[0132] Other additives usually used in cosmetics may also be present in the composition according to the invention, in particular preservatives, antioxidant agents or perfumes well known in the technical field.

[0133] The person skilled in the art is able to choose, from among all of these possible additives, both the nature and the quantity of those which will be added to the composition, so that the latter retains all of its properties.

[0134] The invention is illustrated in a non-limiting manner by the examples below.

[0135] 1: of an alcoholic extract of the flowering aerial parts of

[0136] Tansy, Tanacetum vulgare, according to the invention

[0137] An alcoholic extract of the flowering aerial parts of Tansy, Tanacetum vulgare, according to the invention is prepared by a process comprising the following steps: a) grinding 1000g of the dried flowering aerial parts of Tansy, Tanacetum vulgare, into powder b) Extraction of the powder in 10,000g of ethanol (ratio 1 / 10 by mass of plant relative to the mass of ethanol) 96° with stirring at 60°C for 2 hours;

[0138] - Sieving of mixture 1 obtained at 100pm: filtrate 1 is set aside and the dregs are recovered for a new extraction;

[0139] - Extraction of the dregs in 10,000g of 96° ethanol with stirring at 60°C for 2 hours;

[0140] - Sieving of mixture 2 obtained at 100pm: filtrate 2 is recovered and the dregs are discarded; c) The mixture formed by filtrates 1 and 2; d) Filtration of the supernatant at 15pm; - Decolorization of the filtrate obtained for 3 hours at room temperature with stirring; decolorization is carried out by adding 30% by mass of activated carbon relative to the dry mass of extract (25 g of activated carbon);

[0141] - Filtration on membranes at 4pm: elimination of activated carbon; e) Addition of 666 g of 1,3-propanediol to obtain a mixture at 10% dry matter

[0142] - Complete evaporation of ethanol using a rotary evaporator or falling flow evaporator (final ethanol concentration less than 0.5%)

[0143] - Decant overnight at 4°C

[0144] - Final filtration at 4pm.

[0145] 740g of final extract are obtained.

[0146] After analysis, it was determined that the extract included:

[0147] 4.7% by weight of chlorogenic acid and its isomers;

[0148] 5.3% by weight of 3,5-dicafeoylquinic acid and

[0149] 1.5% by weight of 3,4-dicafeoylquinic acid. The percentages are expressed by weight, relative to the total dry weight of the extract.

[0150] The extract also comprised 23.3% by weight of sugars, including 5.7% by weight of glucose, 9.1% by weight of fructose and 8.5% by weight of sucrose, the percentages being expressed by weight, relative to the total dry weight of the extract.

[0151] The extract also included 20.5% by weight of polysaccharides, the percentages being expressed by weight, relative to the total dry weight of the extract.

[0152] Example 2: Stimulation of the expression of genes coding for antioxidant proteins and inhibition of genes involved in inflammation in normal human keratinocytes treated with the extract according to the invention.

[0153] Protocol: Normal human epidermal keratinocytes from three different donors were seeded in 24-well plates and cultured in keratinocyte-SFM (k-SFM) supplemented medium for 48 hours at 37°C and 5% CO2. The cells were then incubated with or without (untreated condition) 0.025% extract for 24 hours. Each condition was performed in duplicate. Total RNA was extracted using TriPure Isolation Reagent® according to the protocol recommended by the supplier. Complementary DNA was synthesized and a transcriptome was performed on Affymetrix GeneChip Human Transcriptome Array 2.0. Bioinformatics analysis of genes whose expression is modulated by at least a factor of 2 was performed with Ingenuity Pathway Analysis software (IPA®, QIAGEN).

[0154] Results: The biological pathways significantly stimulated by tansy extract are mainly antioxidant. In particular, it stimulates the oxidative stress response pathway mediated by NRF2 (nuclear factor erythroid 2-related factor 2). NRF2 is a transcription factor that, once activated, increases the expression of antioxidant enzymes such as GPX2, NQO1 and TXNRD11. Tansy extract also increases the expression of SPRR (Small Proline Rich proteins), proteins known for their antioxidant properties2. The genes involved in the oxidative stress response and their level of stimulation by tansy extract versus untreated control (expression level > 2) are reported in Table I.

[0155] Table I: List of genes involved in antioxidant pathways whose expression is increased by the Tansy extract according to the invention.

[0156] Through its ability to stimulate the expression of different genes involved in pathways that limit cellular oxidative stress, Tansy extract has antioxidant cosmetic potential.

[0157] On the other hand, as shown in Table II, the extract inhibits biological pathways such as interferons, immunomodulatory cytokines known for their regulatory role in skin inflammation. H also decreases the expression of interleukin 33 (IL33) and CXCL14, respectively a cytokine and a chemokine, also involved in skin inflammation. Table II: List of genes involved in inflammation pathways whose expression is decreased by Tansy extract.

[0158] Through its ability to inhibit the expression of different genes involved in skin inflammation, Tansy extract has soothing cosmetic potential.

[0159] Example 3: Decrease in the expression of genes involved in the senescence-associated secretory phenotype (SASP) in senescent human fibroblasts treated with the extract according to the invention.

[0160] Protocol: Normal human skin fibroblasts from three different donors were seeded in 6-well plates and cultured in DMEM medium for 24 hours at 37°C and 5% CO2. The cells were then stressed by two treatments with 100nM doxorubicin for 6 hours to induce senescence. After 72 hours of recovery in DMEM + 10% serum, the senescent fibroblasts were incubated in DMEM + 10% serum with or without (untreated condition) 0.0083% or 0.025% tansy extract for 72 hours. Total RNA was then extracted using TriPure Isolation Reagent® according to the protocol recommended by the supplier. Complementary DNA was synthesized and quantitative PCR was performed using probes targeting CCL2. A CCL5 assay was performed in the cell culture supernatant using a Multiplex Custom Human G-series Array.

[0161] Results: Senescent fibroblasts secrete different molecules, grouped under the name SASP for senescence-associated secretory phenotype, promoting the propagation of senescence in the skin and thus its aging. As shown in Figure 1, tansy extract is able to reduce the expression of CCL2 and CCL5, molecules that are part of SASP5, in senescent fibroblasts. It thus helps reduce the propagation of skin senescence and therefore has anti-aging cosmetic properties.

[0162] Example 4: Increase in epidermal thickness for those treated with Tansy extract in formulation

[0163] Protocol: With age, the thickness of the epidermis decreases. Retinol is also used and known for its impact on the thickening of the epidermis. Tansy extract was tested on skin explants to evaluate its impact on the thickness of the epidermis in comparison to retinol. The explants are skin discs of one cm in diameter from normal human plasty. For this study, the plasty is from a 35-year-old Caucasian woman with phototype 2 to 3. The explants are kept alive, in a culture medium developed in the Ex-Vivo laboratory, for 5 days at 37°C and 5% CO2. During this period, a portion of the explants called “CTL” (indicated as CTL in Figure 2) received no treatment while another portion was treated with a simplex formula containing Tansy extract at 0.1% (indicated as TAN 0.1 in Figure 2) or 0.4% (indicated as TAN 0.4) versus retinol 0.05% (indicated as RET in Figure 2).Each condition was tested twice. These percentages are expressed by weight, relative to the total weight of the dry extract.

[0164] Results: The application of Tansy extract allows a significant increase in epidermal thickness (Figure 2). The use of Tansy extract, compared to the control, allows an increase in epidermal thickness of 36.9% (Tansy extract at 0.1%) or 37.4% (TAN0.4) against 7.7% obtained with retinol, as shown in Table III below. The distribution of thickness was measured after 5 days.

[0165] Compared to retinol, Tansy extract is much more effective, providing a benefit of 27.1% or 27.6% increase in thickness expressed in pm obtained respectively with TAN0.1 and TAN0.4.

[0166] Through its effect on the thickening of the epidermis, Tansy extract therefore has anti-aging cosmetic properties.

[0167] In Figure 2, the “p” value corresponds to the significance between two conditions with a Wilcoxon test.

[0168] The Wilcoxon test gives the probability "p" that two batches are significantly different. The difference between two batches is not significant if p>0.1 (indicated as ns, in the table). The difference between two batches is significant if 0.1>p>0.05, which is a probability between 90-95% that two batches are significantly different or 0.01 <p<0.05, soit une probabilité entre 95-99% pour que deux lots soient significativement différents ou p<0. 01, donc une probabilité de plus de 99% pour que deux lots soient significativement différents, ou p<0.001, donc une probabilité de plus de 99,9% pour que deux lots soient significativement différents.

[0169] In Figure 2, the p-values ​​are 0.0001 for the CTL / RET0.05 batches and less than 2.22e' 16 for other lots.

[0170] Table III: Measurement of the increase in epidermal thickness by tansy extract.

[0171] * median

[0172] Example 5: Strengthening the barrier function of explants treated with tansy extract

[0173] Protocol: Retinol is known for its impact on epidermal thickening, however, in return it induces inflammation in the skin. Example 4 demonstrated that tansy extract allowed for better thickening of the epidermis. Example 5 aims to evaluate the impact of tansy extract on strengthening the barrier function versus the use of retinol. This strengthening will be evaluated by quantifying loricrin immunostaining. This technique makes it possible to reveal a specific protein on a tissue section via the use of an antibody specific to the protein of interest. A second antibody coupled with a fluorochrome will allow the detection of the first antibody using a fluorescence microscope. The main function of the loricrin protein is to strengthen the comified cell envelope and improve its defensive barrier function.By analogy, the more loricrin is expressed, the more the barrier function is strengthened.

[0174] The explants, derived from a 35-year-old Caucasian female, were maintained in culture for 5 days at 37°C and 5% CO2. As in Example 4, a portion of the explants was not treated (indicated as CTL in Figure 3), and a portion was treated by application of 0.1% (indicated as TAN0.1 in Figure 3) or 0.4% (indicated as TAN0.4 in Figure 3) tansy extract or 0.05% (indicated as RET in Figure 3) retinol in formula. Each condition was tested twice. The percentages are expressed by weight, relative to the total weight of the dry extract.

[0175] Results: As illustrated by the graph in Figure 3, explants treated with Tansy extract show a significant increase in Loricrin synthesis compared to explants treated with retinol, which implies a reinforced barrier function.

[0176] Indeed, explants treated with 0.1% and 0.4% tansy extract synthesized respectively 9.4%* and 12.7%* more loricrin than explants treated with retinol, as indicated in Table IV below. There is also an enhancement obtained compared to the control even if significance is not reached.

[0177] Example 4 showed that tansy extract had a more impactful effect than retinol on thickening the epidermis. Example 5 demonstrates that, unlike the irritating effects of retinol on the skin, tansy extract strengthens the barrier function. This extract therefore has anti-aging cosmetic properties similar to those presented by retinol without the drawbacks of retinol.

[0178] In Figure 3, the “p” value corresponds to the significance between two conditions with a Wilcoxon test; as shown in the case of Figure 2 above.

[0179] In Figure 3, the p values ​​are NS for the CTL / RET batches and 0.01 <p<0.05 (*, valeur de p dans la Figure 3) pour les autres lots, soit une probabilité entre 95-99% pour que deux lots soient significativement différents.

[0180] Table IV: Measurement of loricrin synthesis in explants.

[0181] Example 6: Cell renewal of explants treated with tansy extract

[0182] Protocol: Retinol is known to stimulate cell renewal. Example 4 demonstrated that tansy extract allowed for better thickening of the epidermis and example 5 - a strengthening of the barrier function. Example 6 aims to evaluate the impact of tansy extract on cell renewal versus the use of retinol. This renewal will be evaluated by quantifying Ki67 immunostaining. This technique reveals a specific protein on a tissue section via the use of an antibody specific to the protein of interest. A second antibody coupled with a fluorochrome will allow the detection of the first antibody using a fluorescence microscope. The Ki67 protein is a proliferation marker. By analogy, the more Ki67 is expressed, the greater the tissue renewal.

[0183] The explants, from a 61-year-old Caucasian female, were maintained in culture for 7 days at 37°C and 5% CO2. As in Example 4, a portion of the explants received no treatment (indicated as Control in Figure 4), and a portion was treated by application of 0.4% Tansy extract (indicated as Tanacetum in Figure 4) or 0.05% retinol (indicated as Retinol0.05% in Figure 4) in duplicate formula. Each condition was tested twice. The percentages are expressed by weight, relative to the total weight of the dry extract.

[0184] Results: As illustrated by the graph in Figure 4, the Tansy extract allows, compared to the control, to stimulate tissue renewal of the explants by increasing the number of nuclei positively marked by Ki67 (+163%* vs. CTL) after 7 days of treatment (indicated “D7” in Figure 4), as indicated in Table V below. Comparing the explants treated with Tansy extract with the explants treated with retinol, the synthesis of Ki67 is also increased by 18.6% (ns).

[0185] Example 4 showed that tansy extract had a more impactful effect than retinol on thickening the epidermis. Example 5 demonstrates that, unlike the irritating effects of retinol on the skin, tansy extract strengthens the barrier function. And finally, example 6 confirms that tansy extract increases tissue renewal. These three examples confirm that tansy extract therefore has anti-aging cosmetic properties.

[0186] In Figure 4, the “p” value corresponds to the significance between two conditions with a Wilcoxon test; as shown in the case of Figure 2 above.

[0187] In Figure 4, the p values ​​are NS for the Control / RetinolO.05% and 0.01 batches <p<0.05 (*, valeur de p dans la Figure 4) pour l’autre lot Témoin / Tancetum, soit une probabilité entre 95-99% pour que deux lots soient significativement différents.

[0188] Table V: Measurement of loricrin synthesis in explants.

[0189] Example 7: cosmetic compositions

[0190] The following compositions can be prepared in a conventional manner for those skilled in the art. The quantities indicated below are expressed as percentages by weight. The 0 ingredients in capital letters are identified in accordance with the INCI name.

[0191] A - fluid oil / water emulsion

[0192] b - oil / water cream emulsion

[0193]

[0194] These compositions can be applied every day, morning and / or evening, to the skin.

Claims

CLAIMS 1. Alcoholic extract of the flowering aerial parts of Tansy, Tanacetum vulgare, comprising at least sugars, polysaccharides and caffeic derivatives.

2. Alcoholic extract of the flowering aerial parts of Tansy, Tanacetum vulgare according to claim 1, comprising: o 30 to 60% by weight of sugars and polysaccharides, preferably 40 to 50% by weight, o 5 to 20% by weight of caffeic derivatives, preferably 6 to 14% by weight, the percentages being expressed by weight, relative to the total dry weight of the extract.

3. Alcoholic extract of the flowering aerial parts of Tansy, Tanacetum vulgare according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the sugars comprise: o 10% by weight of glucose, preferably 3 to 8% by weight, o 5 to 15% by weight of fructose, preferably 6 to 12% by weight, o 5 to 15% by weight of sucrose, preferably 7 to 10% by weight, the percentages being expressed by weight, relative to the total dry weight of the extract.

4. Alcoholic extract of the flowering aerial parts of Tansy, Tanacetum vulgare according to any one of the preceding claims, comprising 30 to 60% by weight of sugars and polysaccharides, preferably 40 to 50% by weight, 1 to 15% by weight of dicaffeoylquinic acid, preferably 2 to 8% by weight, 1 to 10% by weight of chlorogenic acid, preferably 3 to 5% by weight, and the percentages being expressed by weight, relative to the total dry weight of the extract.

5. Alcoholic extract of the flowering aerial parts of Tansy, Tanacetum vulgare according to any one of the preceding claims, comprising 30 to 60% by weight of sugars and polysaccharides, preferably 40 to 50% by weight, 1 to 10% by weight of 3,5-dicafeoylquinic acid, preferably 2 to 6% by weight, 0.1 to 5% by weight of 3,4-dicafeoylquinic acid, preferably 0.5 to 2% by weight, 1 to 10% by weight of chlorogenic acid, preferably 3 to 5% by weight, and the percentages being expressed by weight, relative to the total dry weight of the extract.

6. Process for extracting the flowering aerial parts of Tansy, Tanacetum vulgare, comprising the following steps: a) grinding the flowering aerial parts of Tansy, Tanacetum vulgare, b) at least one, preferably at least two extractions of said dried, crushed flowering aerial parts in the presence of a first alcoholic solvent, each extraction being followed by a filtration step; c) mixing the liquid filtrates from the extractions of step b); d) filtration of the mixture obtained in c) and, optionally, decolorization of the filtrate obtained by adoption on activated carbon; e) dilution in a second alcoholic solvent other than the first alcoholic solvent of the mixture obtained in d), and removal of the first alcoholic solvent.

7. Method according to claim 6, characterized in that the flowering aerial parts of Tansy, Tanacetum vulgare used in step a) are dried aerial parts chosen from flowers, leaves, stems and mixtures thereof.

8. Method according to any one of claims 6 or 7, characterized in that in step a), the flowering aerial parts of Tansy, Tanacetum vulgare are ground to a fineness of less than 2 cm and / or in that the first alcoholic solvent of step b) is a monoalcohol comprising from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, preferably ethanol.

9. Method according to any one of claims 6 to 8, characterized in that that the extractions of step b) are carried out for a period of between 1 and 6 hours, preferably between 1 and 3 hours, at a temperature of between 40°C and 80°C, preferably between 50 and 70°C and / or in that each extraction of step b) is followed by filtration through a 100 pm sieve.

10. Method according to any one of claims 6 to 9, characterized in that the filtration of the extract obtained in c) carried out in step d) is carried out on a 4 pm sieve or filtration membrane and / or in that, between steps d) and e), a step of decolorization of the filtrate obtained in d) is added, preferably by adsorption on activated carbon, followed by a step of filtration of the decolorized filtrate obtained, preferably on a 4 pm sieve or filtration membrane.

11. Process according to any one of claims 6 to 10, characterized in that the elimination of step e) is carried out by evaporation, then the dilution is carried out in 1,3-propanediol.

12. Alcoholic extract of flowering aerial parts of Tansy, Tanacetum vulgare, characterized in that it can be obtained by a process according to any one of claims 6 to 11.

13. Cosmetic use of an alcoholic extract of flowering aerial parts of Tansy, Tanacetum vulgare according to any one of claims 1 to 3, as a soothing active ingredient.

14. Cosmetic use of an alcoholic extract of flowering aerial parts of Tansy, Tanacetum vulgare according to any one of claims 1 to 3, to prevent and / or reduce skin aging.

15. Cosmetic composition comprising, in a cosmetically acceptable vehicle, an alcoholic extract of flowering aerial parts of Tansy, Tanacetum vulgare according to any one of claims 1 to 3.

16. Cosmetic composition according to claim 16 characterized in that it is suitable for topical application. 5

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