Oil-in-water cosmetic composition containing pigments

Abstract

A cosmetic composition in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion comprising at least one oil phase dispersed in an aqueous phase and comprising: a) at least one emulsifier selected from alkyl phosphate compounds; b) at least one polyoxyalkylated silicone emulsifier; c) at least one aqueous thickener selected from sulfonic-membered polymers; and d) at least one pigment surface-treated with at least one polyoxyalkylated silicone compound. Use of the above composition for skin makeup, in particular as a foundation.

Description

Title of the invention: Oil-in-water cosmetic composition comprising pigments technical field

[0001] The present invention relates to the field of oil-in-water (O / W) emulsion cosmetic compositions comprising pigments, dedicated in particular to makeup such as foundation compositions, and the use of these oil-in-water (O / W) emulsions as foundation. Technological background

[0002] There is a strong demand for cosmetic compositions that improve the appearance of the skin. In particular, makeup compositions, such as foundations, enhance and even out the complexion or conceal skin imperfections or irregularities such as blemishes, hyperpigmentation, pores, wrinkles, and fine lines. Foundation compositions must exhibit good adhesion of the powders and particulate coloring materials to the skin and a uniform dispersion of these powders and pigments to ensure good spreading properties, even and even coverage, and long-lasting wear.

[0003] It is generally easier to produce foundations in the form of a water-in-oil emulsion to obtain good spreading, coverage, and homogeneity properties. However, oil-in-water emulsions (or "direct" emulsions) are particularly valued in the cosmetics field for the feeling of freshness they provide upon application. For example, pigmented oil-in-water compositions described in application WO2016 / 087554 are known, comprising an associative polyurethane, a non-ionic surfactant, a fatty alcohol, and 10% by weight of pigments coated with a hydrophobic compound.

[0004] However, oil-in-water emulsions are less suitable for complexion products because they have less appropriate sensory properties for this type of product than water-in-oil emulsions, in particular little glide, insufficient coverage and too short an application or handling time (“play time”) to be able to work the composition during application and allow easy and uniform application of the color.

[0005] Furthermore, compositions with high pigment contents are generally more difficult to stabilize without substantially compromising sensory properties. Besides instabilities related to emulsification (such as creaming and flocculation), other instabilities can be related to pigment migration, sedimentation, or agglomeration. However, good pigment dispersion is essential and This can be more difficult to achieve with direct emulsions. These various instabilities can lead to changes in the texture and / or color of the composition over time. Some instabilities can also result in a noticeable color difference between the product's bulk color (the composition's color) and the final color obtained once the composition is applied as a film to the skin.

[0006] Finally, it is more difficult to obtain direct emulsions that, after application, exhibit satisfactory properties in terms of long-lasting wear. This lack of wear can be further exacerbated depending on the surrounding temperature and humidity conditions. Destabilization of the makeup film on the skin will result, within a few hours, in a heterogeneous and therefore unsatisfactory visual makeup appearance.

[0007] There therefore remains a need for cosmetic compositions, particularly for makeup or complexion products, that are effective in unifying the complexion and correcting imperfections, and that offer good spreading and staying power with a uniform, covering, and natural finish on the skin. There is also a need for cosmetic compositions for makeup that provide a feeling of freshness and lightness upon application, while also having good sensory properties, particularly ease of application and spreading, without any resistance during application, non-sticky, pleasant to the touch, leaving no greasy residue, and comfortable to wear throughout the day.

[0008] In particular, there remains a need for cosmetic compositions for makeup, especially for foundations, which provide a feeling of freshness while having good sensory properties, good glide, good ease of spreading with sufficient play time, good coverage and allowing a homogeneous makeup result.

[0009] At the same time, there is a need for cosmetic compositions with good stability over time, in particular that are stable throughout the product's storage period up to several months after it has been opened by the end user.

[0010] The applicant unexpectedly and surprisingly discovered that all of these problems can be solved by the composition according to the present invention. Summary of the invention

[0011] According to one aspect, the present invention relates to a cosmetic composition in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion comprising at least one oily phase dispersed in an aqueous phase and comprising: a) at least one alkyl phosphate emulsifier; b) at least one polyoxyalkylated silicone emulsifier; c) at least one aqueous thickener selected from sulfonic motif polymers; and d) at least one pigment surface-treated with a polyoxyalkylated silicone treatment agent.

[0012] Indeed, after extensive research, the inventors discovered that it is possible to provide a foundation product in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion, possessing the sensory properties of a water-in-oil emulsion, notably excellent spreadability with good glide and a sufficiently long play time, while retaining the freshness and lightness of oil-in-water emulsions. In other words, the inventors developed a composition that combines the advantages of two different formulations. In particular, the compositions according to the invention allow for good pigment distribution, which, surprisingly, blends into the skin and provides good natural coverage and a homogeneous makeup result, unifying the complexion and also concealing skin imperfections such as wrinkles, fine lines, and pores.

[0013] The particular combination of ingredients highlighted by the inventors makes it possible to obtain a composition exhibiting both this sensoriality and ease of application, very good homogeneity of color and hold as well as very good stability over time.

[0014] Finally, the composition according to the invention has the advantage of producing stable oil-in-water emulsions without requiring significant proportions of surfactants, emulsifiers, and thickeners. The body and stability of the particular combination of ingredients also allow for the integration of mineral or organic sunscreens for daily protection without degrading sensory properties or destabilizing playtime or coverage.

[0015] The composition according to the invention is suitable for topical application to the skin. It can be used for skincare and / or makeup. For example, it can be used as a skincare product, such as a protective, treatment, or care cream for the face, hands, or body, or as a sunscreen. The composition according to the invention can also be used as a makeup product, particularly as a foundation.

[0016] Thus, the invention also relates to the cosmetic use of the composition as defined above as a makeup product, preferably as a foundation. Detailed description

[0017] The general terms used herein are defined below.

[0018] The expression “at least one” is equivalent to the expression “one or more”.

[0019] The expression “including” encompasses the expression “consisting of”.

[0020] For the purposes of this invention, “cosmetic composition” means a composition suitable for external topical application. It comprises a cosmetically acceptable carrier, that is to say, a carrier compatible with the skin (body, face, eye contour, eyelids). The cosmetic composition is preferably a tinted product, more particularly a foundation.

[0021] For the purposes of this invention, “complexion product” means a skin-coating product (for the body, face, eye contour, and eyelids) that, using pigments, evens out or corrects skin tone, or conceals skin imperfections. The complexion product may be a makeup and / or skincare product. For example, it may be a tinted anti-blemish cream that also provides moisturizing care and / or UV protection. Preferably, the complexion product is a foundation.

[0022] The term “foundation” refers to makeup that gives a uniform color to the skin on which it is applied. For the purposes of this invention, a foundation comprises at least 7% pigments, preferably at least 8% pigments, and more preferably at least 10% pigments by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0023] By “oil-in-water emulsion” (noted H / W), we mean a composition consisting of a continuous aqueous phase in which a discontinuous oily phase is dispersed, in particular in the form of droplets, so as to observe a macroscopically homogeneous mixture to the naked eye.

[0024] For the purposes of this invention, “emulsifier” means any compound or mixture of compounds capable of increasing the kinetic stability of an emulsion. In the context of this invention, this term refers to amphiphilic compounds, that is, compounds which possess both a hydrophilic (polar) part and a lipophilic (nonpolar) part.

[0025] The name “INCI” designates the name of a cosmetic ingredient according to the International Nomenclature of Cosmetic Ingredients.

[0026] Alkyl phosphate emulsifier:

[0027] The composition according to the invention contains at least one emulsifier selected from alkyl phosphate compounds.

[0028] According to the present invention, the term “alkyl phosphate” (also referred to herein as alkyl phosphate) encompasses compounds having a phosphate group bonded to an alkyl chain, for example monoalkyl phosphates (where the phosphate element is bonded to a single alkyl chain) or dialkyl phosphates (where the phosphate element is linked to two alkyl chains). The composition may include a single type of alkyl phosphate, but two or more different types of alkyl phosphates may also be used in combination.

[0029] Preferably, the alkyl phosphate compound is a mono-noalkyl phosphate ester.

[0030] Preferably, the alkyl phosphate compound is a C12-C24 alkyl phosphate, preferably a C16-C18 alkyl phosphate.

[0031] Advantageously, the alkyl phosphate compound is selected from cetyl phosphate, stearyl phosphate, cetearyl phosphate and mixtures thereof.

[0032] The alkyl phosphate compound may be in the form of a salt, for example, an alkali metal salt, an alkaline earth metal salt, or an ammonium salt. Preferably, the alkyl phosphate compound is in the form of an alkali metal salt. Examples of alkali metals include potassium, lithium, and sodium. Preferably, the alkyl phosphate compound is in the form of a potassium salt.

[0033] Advantageously, the alkyl phosphate compound is cetyl phosphate, more particularly potassium cetyl phosphate. Examples of cetyl phosphates usable according to the invention include products marketed under the names Amphisol K (from DSM), Amphisol A (DSM), and Crodafos MCK (Croda).

[0034] The amount of alkyl phosphate in the composition according to the present invention may be 0.3% by weight or more, preferably 0.5% by weight or more, and more preferably 0.8% by weight or more relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0035] On the other hand, the quantity of alkyl phosphate in the composition according to the present invention can be at most 2.5% by weight, preferably at most 1.5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0036] Preferably, the amount of alkyl phosphate in the composition according to the present invention is 0.5% to 2.5% by weight, preferably 0.8% to 1.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. This allows for a combination of improved stability and sensory appeal of the composition.

[0037] Polyoxyalkylated silicone emulsifier:

[0038] The composition according to the invention contains at least one polyoxyalkylated silicone emulsifier.

[0039] According to the present invention, the term “polyoxyalkylated silicone emulsifier” encompasses silicone polymer emulsifiers having at least one polyoxyalkylated chain, for example, chains comprising oxyethylene and / or oxypropylene repeating units. This term notably includes organosiloxane polymers (polyorganosiloxanes, in particular polydimethyl (or dialkyl) silicones) with polyoxyalkylated groups. hydrophilic polyoxyalkylenated lateral and / or terminal groups, preferably polyoxy-thylened (or POE) and / or polyoxypropylene (or POP). This term specifically includes polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS) containing one or more water-soluble ether groups (oxyalkylene repeating units, particularly oxyethylene and / or oxypropylene).

[0040] The polyoxyalkylene chains of the silicone emulsifier may comprise 7 to 18 oxyalkylene units. Preferably, the polyoxyalkylene silicone emulsifier comprises at least 9, and preferably at least 10, oxyalkylene units. Preferably, the silicone emulsifier comprises at most 15, and preferably at most 13, oxyalkylene units.

[0041] Preferably the silicone emulsifier comprises polyoxyethylene and / or polyoxypropylene chains, preferably polyoxyethylene.

[0042] Preferably, the polyoxyalkylated silicone emulsifier has an HLB greater than or equal to 9, preferably greater than or equal to 11, more preferably greater than or equal to 13.

[0043] The term HLB (Hydrophilic Lipophilic Balance) is well known and designates the hydrophilic-lipophilic balance of a surfactant at 25°C according to Griffin. Hydrophilic-lipophilic balance (HLB) refers to the equilibrium between the size and strength of the hydrophilic group and the size and strength of the lipophilic group of the surfactant. The HLB value according to Griffin is defined in J. Soc. Cosm. Chem. 1954 (volume 5), pages 249-256.

[0044] The composition may comprise a single type of polyoxyalkylated silicone emulsifier. Two or more different types of polyoxyalkylated silicone emulsifier may be used in combination.

[0045] Preferably, the polyoxyalkylated silicone emulsifier is a linear-chain polysiloxane. Preferably, the polyoxyalkylated silicone emulsifier is a polyoxyalkylated polydimethylsiloxane, preferably polyoxyethylated.

[0046] Among the usable polyoxyalkylated silicone emulsifiers, we can cite for example the compounds with the following INCI names: PEG-11 methyl ether dimethicone (for example marketed by the company Shin-Etsu under the name KF-6011, of HLB 14.5), PEG-10 dimethicone (for example marketed by the company Shin-Etsu under the name KF-6043, of HLB 14.5), PEG-12 Dimethicone (for example marketed by the company BRB under the name BRB 526, of HLB 13, or marketed by the company Momentive Performance Materials Inc. under the name Silsoft 870), lauryl PEG / PPG-18 / 18 Dimethicone (for example marketed by the company Siltech under the name Silube J1015-O-212).

[0047] Preferably, the polyoxyalkylated silicone emulsifier is chosen from among dimethicone derivative methyl ethers. PEG-11 is an example. methyl ether dimethicone.

[0048] The amount of polyoxyalkylated silicone emulsifier in the composition according to the present invention may be at least 0.3% by weight, preferably at least 0.5% by weight, and more preferably at least 0.8% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0049] On the other hand, the quantity of polyoxyalkylated silicone emulsifier in the composition according to the present invention can be at most 5% by weight, preferably at most 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0050] The amount of polyoxyalkylated silicone emulsifier in the composition according to the present invention is preferably from 0.5% to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.8% to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. This allows for a combination of improved stability and sensory appeal of the composition.

[0051] Aqueous thickener:

[0052] The composition according to the invention comprises at least one aqueous thickener which is a sulfonic motif polymer.

[0053] By “thickener”, for the purposes of the present invention we mean a polymer which, by its presence, makes it possible to increase the viscosity of the composition into which it is introduced.

[0054] For the purposes of this invention, “aqueous thickener” means a water-soluble or water-dispersible or water-swellable polymer.

[0055] By “sulfonic motif polymer” is meant a polymer comprising at least one monomer with a sulfonic group, that is to say, at least one monomer comprising a -SO3M group where M represents hydrogen or an alkali or alkaline earth ion or ammonium or alkanolammonium ion. It may be a homopolymer (which comprises only monomers with sulfonic groups) or a copolymer (which also comprises other types of monomers). This polymer may be obtained from at least one monomer with ethylenic unsaturation and a sulfonic group. The polymer may be crosslinked or non-crosslinked.

[0056] Preferably, the aqueous thickener is a copolymer.

[0057] Preferably, the aqueous thickener is a copolymer comprising an acry- motif loyldimethyltaurate. In other words, the sulfonic motif polymer is a copolymer of acrylamidomethyl propane sulfonic acid.

[0058] Advantageously, the copolymer is in the form of an ammonia salt. In other words, the sulfonic acid motif is in the form -SO3M where M represents an ammonium ion. Preferably, the copolymer comprises an acryloyl-dimethyl taurate ammonium motif.

[0059] Preferably, the copolymer does not comprise an acrylamide motif. This may offer an advantage in terms of the stability of the composition.

[0060] Advantageously, the copolymer further comprises a vinylpyrrolidone motif.

[0061] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the aqueous thickener is a copolymer of acrylamidomethyl propane sulfonic acid and vinylpyrrolidone.

[0062] Among the usable aqueous gelling agents, we can cite for example the compounds with INCI name Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate / VP Copolymer (for example marketed by the company Clariant under the name ARISTOFLEX AVC).

[0063] The amount of sulfonic motif polymer in the composition according to the present invention can be at least 0.5% by weight, preferably at least 0.8% by weight, and more preferably at least 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0064] On the other hand, the quantity of sulfonic motif polymer in the composition according to the present invention can be at most 3% by weight, preferably at most 1.8% by weight, and more preferably at most 1.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0065] The amount of sulfonic motif polymer in the composition according to the present invention is preferably from 0.5% to 1.8% by weight, preferably from 0.8% to 1.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0066] According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the weight ratio of the quantity of water to the quantity of sulfonic motif polymer is at least 40:1, for example from 40:1 to 70:1. Indeed, the proportion of water relative to the proportion of aqueous thickener has an impact on the feasibility and stability of the composition.

[0067] Surface-treated pigment:

[0068] The composition according to the invention comprises at least one pigment surface-treated with a polyoxyalkylened silicone treatment agent.

[0069] The term “pigments” refers to particles insoluble in an aqueous and / or organic medium, intended to color and / or opacify the composition and / or a film of composition applied to the skin. These pigments may be white or colored. For example, the pigments may be mineral pigments and / or mother-of-pearl.

[0070] Preferably, the pigments are chosen from mineral pigments (also referred to herein as inorganic pigments). Examples of useful mineral pigments include zinc, iron (black, yellow or red) or chromium oxides, manganese violet, ultramarine blue, chromium hydrate and ferric blue, titanium dioxide, and metallic powders.

[0071] Preferably, the pigment (which is subject to surface treatment) is chosen from mineral pigments of iron oxide and / or titanium dioxide.

[0072] The pigments can also be nacres. For the purposes of this invention, “nacres” means colored particles of any shape, iridescent or not, particularly those produced by certain molluscs in their shells or synthesized, and which These pigments exhibit a color effect through optical interference. The pearlescent pigments can be selected from pearlescent pigments such as titanium mica coated with iron oxide or titanium dioxide, titanium mica coated with bismuth oxychloride, titanium mica coated with chromium oxide, titanium mica coated with an organic dye, and bismuth oxychloride-based pearlescent pigments. They can also consist of mica particles on the surface of which at least two successive layers of metal oxides and / or organic colorants are superimposed. Preferably, the pearlescent pigments are micas coated with titanium dioxide or iron oxide, as well as bismuth oxychloride.

[0073] By “surface-treated pigment” is meant a pigment coated with at least one treatment agent. Coating here refers to the total or partial surface treatment of the pigment by a surfactant (or treatment agent), absorbed, adsorbed, or grafted onto said pigment. The coating may also include at least one additional compound.

[0074] A person skilled in the art of formulation may use commercially available surface-treated pigments.

[0075] Surface-treated pigments can be prepared using well-known chemical, electronic, chemical-mechanical, or mechanical surface treatment techniques. The treatment agent can be absorbed, adsorbed, or grafted onto the pigments by solvent evaporation, chemical reaction, and the formation of a covalent bond. Coating can be achieved, for example, by adsorbing a liquid treatment agent onto the surface of solid particles by simply mixing the particles and the treatment agent, possibly under heat, while agitated, prior to incorporating the particles into the other ingredients of the composition. Coating can also be achieved, for example, by a chemical reaction of a treatment agent with the surface of solid pigment particles and the formation of a covalent bond between the treatment agent and the particles. This method is described in particular in US patent 4,578,266.Chemical surface treatment may involve diluting the treatment agent in a volatile solvent, dispersing the pigments in this mixture, and then slowly evaporating the volatile solvent so that the treatment agent is deposited on the surface of the pigments.

[0076] In the context of the present invention, the pigment is surface-treated with a polyoxyalkylated silicone processing agent. In other words, the pigments are surface-treated, either totally or partially, with a polyoxyalkylated silicone compound. The pigments are coated with a hydrophilic compound, i.e., one that is miscible in water. The pigments therefore disperse in the external aqueous phase of the oil-in-water emulsion of the composition according to the invention. Despite this configuration, the composition according to the invention surprisingly allows for obtaining a The result is full-coverage makeup, as coverage is often lacking in direct emulsion pigmented formulas.

[0077] According to the present invention, the term “polyoxyalkylated silicone agent” encompasses silicone polymers having at least one polyoxyalkylated chain, for example chains comprising repeated units of oxyethylene, oxypropylene or a mixture thereof.

[0078] Silicone-based surfactants can be selected from organopolysiloxanes, silane derivatives, silicone-acrylate copolymers, silicone resins, and mixtures thereof. In particular, the polyoxyalkylated silicone processing agent can be a linear-chain polysiloxane.

[0079] The polyoxyalkylene chains of the silicone treatment agent may comprise 7 to 18 oxyalkylene units. Preferably, the silicone treatment agent comprises at least 7, and preferably at least 9, oxyalkylene units. Preferably, the silicone treatment agent comprises at most 18, and preferably at most 15, oxyalkylene units.

[0080] Preferably, the silicone treatment agent comprises polyoxyethylene and / or polyoxypropylene chains, preferably polyoxyethylene chains.

[0081] Preferably, the polyoxyalkylated silicone processing agent is a polyoxyalkylated polydimethylsiloxane, preferably polyoxyethylated.

[0082] As an example of a polyoxyalkylated silicone processing agent, the compound with INCI name PEG-12 dimethicone may be cited.

[0083] The composition may comprise one or more different types of pigments surface-treated with a polyoxyalkylated silicone treatment agent.

[0084] Preferably, at least one surface-treated pigment is a mineral pigment of iron oxide and / or titanium dioxide treated with a polyoxyalkylated silicone treatment agent.

[0085] As an example of commercial references of mineral pigments treated with a polyoxyalkylened silicone compound, we can cite: iron oxides (for example of red, black or yellow colour) marketed under the references PEG12 DM-2 RED NO.211P, PEG12 DM-2 BLACK NO.710P, PEG12 DM-2 YELLOW NO.602P by the company DAITO KASEI EUROPE or titanium dioxide (for example of white colour) marketed under the reference PEG12 DM-2 TIO2 R200 by the company DAITO KASEI.

[0086] The particle size of the treated pigment is preferably greater than or equal to 100 nm. Preferably, the size of the pigment particles ranges from 100 nm to 5 pm, preferably from 200 nm to 2 pm, preferably from 500 nm to 1500 nm.

[0087] For the purposes of this invention, “particle size” means the D50 of the particles. The D50, or average size by volume, corresponds to the particle size defined such that 50% by volume of the particles have a size less than D50. The average volume size can be appreciated by light diffraction using a Malvern MasterSizer laser particle size analyzer, the said particles to be evaluated being dispersed in a liquid medium such as, for example, octyldodecyl neopentanoate.

[0088] Preferably, the amount of pigment surface-treated with a polyoxyalkylated silicone treatment agent in the composition according to the present invention is at least 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. This allows for a tinted composition that substantially evens out skin tone.

[0089] According to a particular embodiment, the amount of pigment surface-treated with a polyoxyalkylated silicone treatment agent is at least 7% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. This makes it possible, in particular, to obtain foundation compositions. The amount of pigment surface-treated in the composition according to the present invention may, in particular, be at least 8% by weight, more preferably at least 10% by weight, and even at least 12% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. It should be noted that stable oil-in-water compositions with satisfactory properties are all the more difficult to obtain as they contain a significant amount of pigments and fillers.However, the particular combination according to the invention makes it possible to achieve, surprisingly, significant pigment contents in the oil-in-water composition according to the invention, while combining good sensory properties with appropriate spreading and coverage and good stability over time.

[0090] Preferably, the quantity of pigments treated on the surface is at most 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0091] Oily phase:

[0092] The composition according to the invention comprises at least one oily phase dispersed in an aqueous phase. In other words, the composition according to the invention comprises a discontinuous oily phase. The oily phase is liquid (in the absence of a structuring agent) at room temperature (25°C). It is organic and immiscible in water.

[0093] The oily phase (also called the fatty phase) comprises at least one oil. It may essentially consist of a single oil or a mixture of several oils.

[0094] The term “oil” refers to a “fatty substance” that is liquid at room temperature (25°C) and atmospheric pressure (101,325 Pa; 760 mm Hg). Oils may be of vegetable, animal, or synthetic origin. They may be volatile or non-volatile. Oils may be hydrocarbon oils, silicone oils, fluorinated oils, or a mixture of these oils.

[0095] The term “fatty substance” means an organic compound that is immiscible in water at room temperature (25°C) and atmospheric pressure (1.013 x 10⁵ Pa; 760 mm Hg). This type of compound generally has in its structure a hydrocarbon chain comprising at least 6 carbon atoms or a chain of at least two siloxane groups.

[0096] The term “hydrocarbon oil” means an oil containing mainly hydrogen and carbon atoms, and possibly oxygen and nitrogen, sulfur and / or phosphorus atoms.

[0097] For the purposes of this invention, “siliconized oil” means an oil comprising at least one silicon atom, and in particular at least one Si-O group. Organopolysiloxanes are a particularly good example.

[0098] The term “fluorinated oil” means an oil containing at least one fluorine atom.

[0099] By “volatile oil,” we mean an oil capable of evaporating upon contact with the skin in less than one hour, at room temperature and atmospheric pressure. Volatile oil is liquid at room temperature and can have a vapor pressure ranging from 0.13 Pa to 40,000 Pa (10³ to 300 mm Hg). Volatile oils can be hydrocarbon, silicone, or fluorinated.

[0100] By “non-volatile oil” is meant an oil having a vapor pressure of less than 0.13 Pa (less than 103 mm Hg). In particular, it is capable of remaining on the skin for at least several hours at room temperature and atmospheric pressure. Non-volatile oils may be hydrocarbon, silicone, or fluorinated.

[0101] Examples of oils that can be used in the context of the present invention include C6-C16 hydrocarbons, hydrocarbon oils with more than 16 carbon atoms, non-siliconized oils, vegetable oils, glycerides (including synthetic triglycerides such as those of capric / caprylic acids), esters of fatty acids and / or fatty alcohols other than triglycerides, fatty acid ethers, siliconed oils, fluorinated oils and mixtures thereof.

[0102] C6-C16 hydrocarbons, of vegetable, mineral or synthetic origin, may be linear, branched, possibly cyclic, preferably alkanes. By way of example, one may mention nonane (C9), n-decane (C10), n-undecane (C11), n-dodecane (C12), n-tridecane (C13), n-tetradecane (C14), n-pentadecane (C15), n-hexadecane (C16), a mixture of alkanes (for example of undecane and tridecane), isoparaffins such as isohexadecane, isodecane.

[0103] Hydrocarbon oils (hydrocarbons with more than 16 carbon atoms), of vegetable, mineral or synthetic origin, can be linear or branched. Examples of hydrocarbon oils include paraffin oil, petrolatum, polydecenes, hydrogenated polyisobutene, and squalane.

[0104] Vegetable oils may preferably be chosen from triglycerides, such as than caprylic / capric acid triglycerides. Non-limiting examples of vegetable oils include sweet almond oil, macadamia oil, hazelnut oil, peanut oil, sesame oil, walnut oil, argan oil, jojoba oil, calendula oil, apricot oil, sunflower oil, olive oil, corn oil, soybean oil, hemp oil, rapeseed oil, cottonseed oil, coconut oil, pumpkin seed oil, grapeseed oil, arara oil, castor oil, avocado oil, mirabelle plum oil, shea butter oil and their mixtures.

[0105] Glycerides are esters of glycerol with one (monoglycerides) or more (diglycerides and triglycerides) fatty acids. They can be of natural or synthetic origin. For example, the triglycerides of capric / caprylic acid.

[0106] Alcohols, esters and fatty acids have at least one hydrocarbon group, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, comprising at least 6 carbon atoms, preferably from 8 to 26 carbon atoms, optionally substituted, in particular by one or more hydroxyl groups.

[0107] The esters can be chosen from fatty acid and / or fatty alcohol esters, possibly hydroxylated. These esters, distinct from the triglycerides mentioned previously, may be selected from among the esters of saturated or unsaturated, linear or C1-C26 branched, linear or branched, C1-C26, saturated or unsaturated, linear or C1-C26 branched, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, aliphatic mono- or poly-alcohols, the total carbon number of the esters being greater than or equal to 6. Non-limiting examples of fatty acid and / or fatty alcohol esters include octyldodecyl behenate, isocetyl behenate, linoleyl lactate, isocetyl laurate, hexyl laurate, isocetyl stearate, isocetyl oleate, isononyl isononanoate, octyl isononanoate, methyl acetyl ricinoleate, and palmitate. isostearyl, ethyl palmitate, isopropyl palmitate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, alkyl myristates such as isopropyl, butyl, and cetyl myristate,butyl stearate, isobutyl stearate, isopropyl stearate or isostearate, isostearyl isostearate, octyl stearate, octyl hydroxystearate, isostearyl lactate, dii-sopropyl adipate, dioctyl malate, 2-hexyldecyl laurate, ethyl 2-hexyl caprate / caprylate (or octyl caprate / caprylate), isostearyl neopentanoate, isodecyl neopentanoate, heptanoates (such as isostearyl heptanoate), octanoates (such as cetyl octanoate, cetearyl octanoate, tridecyl octanoate).

[0108] Fatty acid ethers can be more particularly selected from among ethers having from 6 to 24 carbon atoms. They can be of vegetable origin, such as dicaprylyl ether.

[0109] Silicone oils may be selected from non-volatile cyclic or non-cyclic silicone oils, volatile cyclic or non-cyclic silicone oils and their mixtures. Silicone oils may include at least one Si-O group. These may include organopolysiloxanes. Non-limiting examples of silicone oils include cyclomethicones, linear or cyclic polydimethysiloxanes (or PDMS), dimethicones with alkyl, alkoxy, phenyl, or copolyol groups, crosslinked silicone polymers, phenyl silicones, dimethylpolysiloxane, diethylpolysiloxane, Cl-30 mixed polysiloxanes, dimethiconol, and combinations thereof. Preferably, silicone oils are selected from among the dimethicones and methyltrimethicone, and more particularly from among the dimethicones.

[0110] Fluorinated oils can for example be chosen from perfluoropolyethers, perfluoroalkanes, fluorinated polyethers, fluorinated silicones and mixtures thereof.

[0111] The composition according to the invention may have an oil content of at least 15% by weight, preferably at least 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0112] The composition according to the invention may have an oil content of at most 50% by weight, preferably at most 40% by weight, preferably at most 30% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. This is preferable for the stability and sensoriality of the composition.

[0113] The quantity of oil in the composition according to the invention is preferably 15 to 30% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0114] Advantageously, the oily phase of the composition according to the invention comprises at least one silicone oil. This offers an advantage in terms of stability and sensory appeal.

[0115] The content of silicone oil(s) in the composition according to the invention can be from 3% to 40% by weight, for example from 5% to 30% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0116] Advantageously, the content of silicone oil(s) in the composition according to the invention is at least 5% by weight, preferably at least 10% by weight, more preferably at least 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0117] The oily phase may further include additional ingredients soluble or miscible in oil such as solvents, formulation agents and / or active ingredients.

[0118] Aqueous phase:

[0119] The composition according to the invention comprises a continuous aqueous phase.

[0120] The aqueous phase comprises water. It may further comprise additional ingredients soluble or miscible in water such as, for example, water-soluble solvents, water-soluble formulation agents and / or water-soluble active ingredients.

[0121] For the purposes of this invention, “water-soluble solvent” means a compound that is liquid at room temperature (25°C) and miscible with water (miscibility in water greater than 50% by weight at 25°C and atmospheric pressure).

[0122] Among solvents soluble or miscible in water, examples include short-chain monoalcohols, for example C1-C4 (such as ethanol, isopropanol, 2-ethoxyethanol), diols or polyols preferably having 2 to 8 carbon atoms (such as ethylene glycol, 1,2-propylene glycol, 1,3-butylene glycol, hexylene glycol, diethylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, diethylene glycol monomethyl ether, triethylene glycol monomethyl ether, glycerol, and sorbitol), and mixtures thereof.

[0123] Preferably, the composition according to the invention has a water content of at least 40% by weight, preferably at least 45% by weight, preferably at least 50% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. This results in improved sensory properties and stability of the composition.

[0124] The composition according to the invention may have a water content of at most 70% by weight, preferably at most 60% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. This is preferable for the feasibility and stability of the composition.

[0125] Additional charges and particles:

[0126] The composition according to the invention may further comprise at least one filler. The filler may, in particular, provide the composition with additional properties of matte finish, coverage, durability and / or improved stability.

[0127] The term "filler" refers to solid particles of all shapes, which are insoluble and dispersed in the composition. The particles may be colorless, white, or colored. They may be mineral or organic in nature. They contribute to giving the composition body, softness, a matte finish, and / or uniformity to the makeup.

[0128] The fillers used in the compositions according to the present invention may be of lamellar, globular, spherical, fibrous or any other intermediate form between these defined forms.

[0129] The fillers according to the invention may or may not be surface coated, and, in particular, they may be surface treated with surfactants such as, for example, silicones, amino acids, fluorinated derivatives or any other substance promoting the dispersion and compatibility of the filler in the composition.

[0130] Examples of mineral fillers include talc, mica, silica, hollow silica microspheres, kaolin, calcium carbonate, magnesium carbonate, hydroxyapatite, boron nitride, and silica and titanium dioxide composites.

[0131] Examples of organic fillers include polyamide powder, polyethylene powder, polymethyl methacrylate powder, polytetrafluoroethylene powder, acrylic acid copolymers, lauroyl lysine, hollow polymeric microspheres such as polyvinylidene chloride / acrylonitrile microspheres, hexamethylene diisocyanate / trimethylol hexyllactone copolymer powder, silicone resin microbeads, synthetic or natural micronized waxes, polyurethane powders, in particular cross-linked polyurethane powders comprising a copolymer, said copolymer comprising trimethylol hexyllactone. Cellulose powder, such as that marketed by Daito in the Cellulobeads range, may also be used. We can also mention cross-linked elastomeric organopolysiloxane powders coated with silicone resin, in particular silsesquioxane resin, as described for example in US patent 5,538,793.Such elastomeric powders are sold under the names KSP-100®, KSP-101®, KSP-102®, KSP-103®, KSP-104® and KSP-105® by SHIN ETSU. Other examples include cross-linked organopolysiloxane elastomeric powders coated with silicone resin, such as hybrid silicone powders functionalized with fluoroalkyl groups, notably sold under the name "KSP-200" by Shin Etsu; or hybrid silicone powders functionalized with phenyl groups, notably sold under the name "KSP-300" by Shin Etsu.

[0132] Thanks to his knowledge of cosmetics, a person skilled in the art is able to choose the fillers to be added to the compositions according to the invention and their quantities according to the properties sought without substantially altering the effects related to the composition according to the invention.

[0133] Additional compounds:

[0134] The composition according to the invention may further comprise one or more formulation agents, in particular conventional cosmetic actives or excipients.

[0135] These formulation agents can be chosen appropriately depending on the use of the composition of the invention.

[0136] Non-limiting examples of formulation agents include hydrophilic or lipophilic actives, organic solvents (e.g., lower alcohols and polyols), ionic or non-ionic, hydrophilic or lipophilic rheological agents (thickeners or gelling agents), softeners, humectants, stabilizers, emollients, film-forming agents, emulsifiers, surfactants (anionic, cationic, non-ionic, or amphoteric), fillers (e.g., mattifying powders, soft-focus touch powders, etc.), UV filters (or photoprotective agents, organic and / or inorganic, active in UVA and / or UVB), colorants, chelating agents, alkalizing or acidifying agents, preservatives, perfumes, or any other ingredient commonly used in the cosmetic and / or dermatological fields. The quantities of these different compounds are those typically used in the fields considered. These compounds, depending on their nature, can be introduced into the oil phase or the aqueous phase.

[0137] The composition according to the invention may further comprise at least one active ingredient. Examples of such active ingredients include: - anti-pollution agents and / or anti-radical agents and / or antioxidant agents (co-enzyme Q10 or ubiquinone); - lightening agents, depigmenting agents; - anti-aging agents; - firming or anti-wrinkle agents, such as plant proteins and their hydrolysates (for example, soy protein extract); - moisturizing agents (such as polyols like glycerin); - anti-inflammatory agents (such as, for example, glycyrrhetinic acid and its salts); - soothing agents (allantoin, bisabolol, cornflower water); - antimicrobial or antibacterial agents (such as salicylic acid); - tensor agents; - firming agents; - vitamins (such as retinol or vitamin A, ascorbic acid or vitamin C, tocopherol or vitamin E, niacinamide or vitamin PP or B3, panthenol or vitamin B5, biotin or vitamin B8 and their derivatives such as, for example, esters of these vitamins); - essential oils.

[0138] Thanks to his knowledge of cosmetics, a person skilled in the art is able to choose the formulation agents to be added to the compositions of the invention and their quantities according to the properties sought without substantially altering the effects related to the composition according to the invention.

[0139] The composition according to the invention is suitable for cosmetic use. In particular, the composition according to the invention is suitable for external topical application. It can, for example, be used as a skincare product and / or makeup product.

[0140] The composition according to the invention comprises a cosmetically acceptable carrier, that is to say, within the meaning of the present invention, a skin-compatible carrier.

[0141] Advantageously, the composition according to the invention comprises at most 5% by weight of surfactants, preferably at most 4% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0142] Advantageously, the composition according to the invention comprises at most 4% by weight of ionic surfactants, preferably at most 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0143] Indeed, the compositions according to the invention have the advantage of obtaining stable oil-in-water emulsions without requiring large proportions of surfactants and emulsifiers, which are generally more irritating to the skin.

[0144] The term “surfactant” means any compound that modifies the surface tension between the two surfaces of the immiscible aqueous and oily phases. These are amphiphilic molecules, that is, molecules possessing both a hydrophilic (polar) part and a lipophilic (nonpolar) part. More specifically, we will refer here to compounds or mixtures of amphiphilic compounds having emulsifying properties, that is, properties capable of increasing the kinetic stability of an emulsion. The term surfactant includes, in particular, nonionic surfactants and ionic surfactants such as anionic, cationic, zwitterionic, or amphoteric surfactants.

[0145] For the purposes of this invention, an “ionic surfactant” means any surfactant compound having at least one ionic charge. More specifically, in the context of this invention, it refers to a compound capable of ionizing in water at a pH between 5 and 8. This term encompasses anionic, cationic, and zwitterionic surfactants. These surfactants may, more particularly, be salts, for example, alkali metal salts such as sodium salts, ammonium salts, amine salts, amino alcohol salts, and alkaline earth metal salts.

[0146] The aqueous phase of the composition according to the invention preferably has a pH less than or equal to 8.

[0147] Usage:

[0148] According to another aspect, the present invention relates to the use of a composition according to the invention for skin makeup.

[0149] The composition may exhibit one or more of the characteristics described above.

[0150] More particularly, the present invention relates to the use of a composition according to the invention as a foundation.

[0151] Preferably, the use relates to a cosmetic composition comprising at least 7% by weight of pigments and fillers, preferably at least 8% by weight of pigments and fillers, and more preferably at least 10% by weight of pigments and fillers relative to the total weight of the composition. "Pigments" and "fillers" are defined above. It should be noted that oil-in-water compositions with satisfactory properties are all the more difficult to obtain and stabilize the more pigments and fillers they contain. However, the inventors have demonstrated a combination that not only makes it possible to obtain stable oil-in-water emulsions with a high pigment content but also those with excellent sensory properties. The compositions according to the present invention are therefore usable not only for tinted creams but also for foundations. complexions that require a higher proportion of pigments, good spreading properties, coverage and play-time.

[0152] The present invention also relates to a non-therapeutic method of makeup and / or skin care comprising at least one step of applying to the skin a composition as defined above. Examples

[0153] The invention is illustrated in more detail by the non-limiting examples shown below. The compounds or raw materials used are named by their INCI names. Unless otherwise indicated, the percentages given are mass percentages. The abbreviation “qsp” means that the quantity must be sufficient for the composition to reach 100% of its final mass.

[0154] The compositions according to Examples 1 to 8 are prepared according to the procedures described below with the proportions in % indicated in Tables 1 and 2 below. The different compositions are also evaluated with regard to their appearance, their stability over time and their application properties.

[0155] [Tables 1] P Compositions Invention Hors invention Noms INCI (%) 1 2 3 4 5 A AQUA / WATER / EAU qsp qsp qsp qsp qsp DISODIUM EDTA® 0,2 0,2 0,2 0,2 0,2 B GLYCERINE 5 5 5 5 5 PROPANEDIOL"' 4,0 4,0 4,0 4,0 4,0 ETHYLHEXYLGLYCERIN'”1 0,2 0,2 0,2 0,2 0,2 C AMMONIUM ACRYLOYLDIMETHYL-TAURATE / VP COPQLYMER(cl 1,12 1,12 1,12 1,12 1,12 D SODIUM POLYACRYLATE® 0,3 0,3 0,3 0,3 0,3 E POTASSIUM CETYL PHOSPHATE1® 1,0 1,0 2,5 0,5 - POLYGLYCERYL-6 STEARATE (and) POLYGLYCERYL-6 BEHENATE® - - - - 3 F PEG-11 METHYL ETHER DIMETHICONE®’ 1,0 - - - L0 GLYCERYL STEARATE (and) PEG-100 STEARATE® 1,5 G DIMETHICONE'0 16 16 16 16 16 H Pigments enrobés de PEG-12 DIMETHICONE'® (mélange de pigments noirs, rouges, jaunes et blancs) 12 12 12 12 12 I DIMETHICONE (and) DIMETHICONOL'0 0,5 0,5 0,5 0,5 0,5 J AQUA / WATER / EAU 1 1 1 1 1 DIMETHICONE (and) POLYSILICONE-11 (and) BUTYLENE GLYCOL (and) DECYL GLUCOSIDE (and) CAPRYLYL GLYCOL® 6 6 6 6 6 K SILICA (and) CI 77891 / TITANIUM DIOXIDE1® 1 1 1 1 1 CI 77891 / TITANIUM DIOXIDE (and) SYNTHETIC FLUORPHLOGOPITE® 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 L Perfume 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1 Total: 100 100 100 100 100 ,

[0156] Compositions 2 to 5 differ from composition 1 according to the invention in that they do not include the combination of the two specific emulsifiers of the composition according to the invention, namely the combination of an alkyl phosphate compound (such as potassium cetyl phosphate) and a poly-oxyalkylated silicone emulsifier (such as the compound with INCI name PEG-11 Methyl Ether Dimethicone). The following evaluations show that, when one of these emulsifiers If the emulsifier is missing or replaced by another type, stability is compromised.

[0157] [Tables 2] P Compositions ; Invention : Hors Invention i Noms INCI (%) 1 6 i 7 8 A-H AQUA / WATER / EAU j Msp j W i qsp qsp j A DISODIUM EDTA'h 0,2 j 0,2 j 0,2 0,2 j BZH GLYCERINE i 5 i 5 i 5 o 97) i : H PROPANEDIOU" i 4,0 j 4.0 i 4,0 4,0 | ETHYLHEXYLGLYCERIN® i 0,2 j 0,2 i 0,2 0,2 i c AMMONIUM i ACRYLOYLDIMETHYL- TAURATE / VP COPOLYMER^’ i L12 à J2 1,12 1,12 D SODIUM POLYACRYLATE^ j 0,3 j 0,3 j 0,3 0,3 i E POTASSIUM CETYL PHOSPHATE'^ j 1,0 1,0 1,0 1,0 F PEG-11 METHYL ETHER j DIMETHICONE^ i 1,0 | 1,0 L0 LO | G DIMETHICONE0’ j 16 j 16 i 16 16 i H Pigments (mélange de pigments noirs, rouges, jaunes et blancs) j 7 W j 12 im j 2 ov (11,94)^ 1 DIMETHICONE (and) j DIMETHICONOL^ i 0,5 j 0,5 | 0,5 0,5 i AQUA / WATER / EAU i 1 j 1 i 1 1 j J DIMETHICONE (and) POLYSILICONE-U (and) BUTYLENE GLYCOL (and) i 6 i 6 6 6 1 DECYL GLUCOSIDE (aad) j CAPRYLYL GLYCOI i SILICA (and) j CI 77891 / TITANIUM DIOXIDE^ i 1 1 1 1 K Cl 77891 / TITANIUM DIOXIDE j (and) SYNTHETIC FLUORPHLfXjOPH’E^ i 0,5 0.5 i 0,5 0,5 L Parfum ; ou i 0,1 i 0,1 o,i i Total : ; 100 100 j 100 100 .

[0158] Compositions 6 to 8 differ from composition 1 according to the invention in that they comprise other types of pigments than those specifically surface-treated with a polyoxyalkylated silicone treatment agent. Compositions 6 to 8 comprise, respectively, pigments coated with phytic acid (a hydrophilic compound), silica-coated pigments, and untreated pigments. The following evaluations show that the resulting compositions are not homogeneous or that the emulsion is not stable when other types of pigments (treated or untreated) are used.

[0159] In Tables 1 and 2 above: - The left-hand column, labeled “P”, indicates the phases in which the compounds are present; - The references in parentheses (next to the INCI name of the compounds or next to the percentage of pigments) indicate the trade names of the raw materials used that include these compounds. Details of these raw materials are given below. (a) AMPHISOL K (INCI name: Potassium cetyl phosphate), marketed by the company DSM. (b) KF-6011 (INCI name: PEG-11 methyl ether dimethicone), marketed by SHIN-ETSU. (c) ARISTOFLEX AVC (INCI name: Ammonium acryloyldimethyltaurate / VP copolymer), marketed by the company CLARIANT. (d) Iron oxide or titanium dioxide pigments coated with ethoxylated silicone, marketed by DAITO KASEI under the references PEG12 DM-2 BLACK NO.710P (INCI name: CI 77499 / iron oxides (and) PEG-12 dimethicone), PEG12 DM-2 RED NO.21 IP (INCI name: CI 77491 / iron oxides (and) PEG-12 dimethicone), PEG12 DM-2 YELLOW NO.602P (INCI name: CI 77492 / iron oxides (and) PEG-12 dimethicone) and PEG12 DM-2 TIO2 R200 (INCI name: CI 77891 / titanium dioxide (and) PEG-12 dimethicone). Depending on the needs and the desired final shade, a mixture of black, red, yellow and white pigments is used. In composition 1 according to the invention, the following proportions were used (representing a total of 12% by weight of this type of pigment relative to the total weight of the composition): 0.21% of PEG12 DM-2 BLACK NO.710P, 0.37% of PEG12 DM-2 RED NO.21 IP, 1.70% of PEG12 DM-2 YELLOW NO.602P and 9.72% of PEG12 DM-2 TIO2 R200. (e) TEGO CARE PB S 6 (INCI name: polyglyceryl-6 stearate (and) polyglyceryl-6 behenate), marketed by EVONIK Nutrition & Care GmbH, ® SIMULSOL 165 (INCI name: Glyceryl Stearate (and) PEG-100 Stearate), marketed by the company SEPPIC. (s) COVACRYL MV60 (INCI name: Sodium polyacrylate), marketed by SENSIENT COSMETIC TECHNOLOGIES. (h) Chione HD Digital Pink S430V (INCI name: CI 77891 (and) synthetic fluor-phlogopite), marketed by BASF. ® XIAMETER(R) PMX-1503 FLUID (INCI name: dimethicone (and) dime-thiconol), marketed by DOW CORNING. ® GRANSIL SIW-078 (INCI name: dimethicone (and) polysilicone-11 (and) aqua (and) butylene glycol (and) decyl glucoside (and) caprylyl glycol) manufactured by GRANT INDUSTRIES, INC. (k) SH219 (INCI name: Silica (and) CI 77891 / titanium dioxide), manufactured by SUNJIN CHEMICAL CO., LTD. œ ELEMENT14* PDMS 5-A, manufactured by SOCIETE MOMENTIVE PERFORMANCE MATERIALS GmbH. (…) Iron oxide or titanium dioxide pigments coated with phytic acid (dispersible in aqueous media) marketed by SENSIENT under the references UNIPURE BLACK LC998 PHY (INCI name: CI 77499 (iron oxides) (and) phytic acid (and) sodium hydroxide), UNIPURE RED LC388 PHY (INCI name: CI 77491 (iron oxides) (and) phytic acid (and) sodium hydroxide), UNIPURE YELLOW LC188 PHY (INCI name: CI 77492 (iron oxides) (and) phytic acid (and) sodium hydroxide) and UNIPURE WHITE LC987 PHY (INCI name: CI 77891 (titanium dioxide) (and) phytic acid (and) sodium hydroxide). Depending on the requirements and the desired final shade, a mixture of black, red, yellow and white pigments are used, representing a total of 12% by weight of coated pigments relative to the total weight of composition 6. (n) Iron oxide or titanium dioxide pigments treated with silica, marketed by DAITO KASEI under the references SIH-2 BLACK N°710P (INCI name: CI 77499 (and) silica), SIH-2 RED N°21 IP (INCI name: CI 77491 (and) silica), SIH-2 YELLOW N°602P (INCI name: CI 77492 (and) silica) and SIH 5 TIO2 R250 (INCI name: CI 77891 (and) silica (and) aluminum hydroxide). Depending on the requirements and the desired final shade, a mixture of black, red, yellow and white pigments is used, representing a total of 12% by weight of treated pigments relative to the total weight of composition 7. (p' Iron oxide or titanium dioxide pigments dispersed in a water / glycerin mixture stabilized with xanthan gum (known for their good performance in oil-in-water emulsions), marketed by SENSIENT under the references COVARINE BLACK WN 9798 (INCI name: CI 77499 (and) glycerin (and) aqua (and) xanthan gum (and) sodium citrate), COVARINE RED WN 3798 (INCI name: CI 77491 (and) glycerin (and) aqua (and) xanthan gum (and) sodium citrate), COVARINE YELLOW WN 1798 (INCI name: CI 77492 (and) glycerin (and) aqua (and) xanthan gum (and) sodium citrate) and COVARINE WHITE WN 9787 (INCI name: CI 77891 (and) glycerin (and) aqua (and) xanthan gum (and) sodium citrate). Depending on the needs and the desired final shade, a mixture of black, red, yellow and white pigments is used, representing a total of 11.94% by weight of pigments relative to the total weight of composition 8. (r) Edeta BD, marketed by BASF. (s) Wilfarin EP997, marketed by the company WILMAR. ® ZEMEA Propanediol, marketed by DuPont Tate & Lyle Bio Products. (u) SENSIVA SC 50, marketed by Schülke France SARL.

[0160] Operating procedure for compositions 1 to 7:

[0161] An aqueous phase A is prepared by dissolving disodium EDTA in water in a beaker while stirring. Phase A is stirred at 250 rpm (revolutions per minute) using a Rayneri mixer equipped with a deflocculator for approximately 10 minutes, until the disodium EDTA is dissolved. Meanwhile, a phase B is prepared beforehand by mixing glycerin, propanediol, and ethylhexylglycerin. Phase B is then added to phase A, and the mixture is stirred for 5 minutes at 250 rpm. The aqueous thickener acryloyldimethyltaurate copolymer (phase C) is then added to the previous aqueous mixture. The mixture is stirred until homogenized, gradually increasing the speed from 400 to 800 rpm. Then, sodium polyacrylate (phase D) is added and stirring is maintained for 5 minutes at 1000 rpm before heating the whole to 80-85°C using a hot plate.Phase E (alkyl phosphate or, if applicable, the polyglyceryl ester mixture) is added to the hot mixture and stirring is maintained at 1000–1200 rpm for 10 minutes at 80–85°C. Phase F (polyoxyalkylated silicone or, if applicable, the stearic acid ester mixture) is then added to the hot aqueous mixture and stirring is maintained at 1000 rpm for 5 minutes at 80–85°C. The emulsion is then formed by incorporating, under stirring (1500–1600 rpm), the oil phase (phase G, including dimethicone), previously heated to 80°C, into the aqueous phase maintained at 80–85°C. Stirring is maintained (1500 rpm) for 10 minutes after the emulsion has formed, still at 80–85°C. The hot plate is then removed to allow the mixture to cool, while still stirring (1100 rpm). When the mixture reaches 50°C, the pigments (H phase) are added and the mixture is homogenized while stirring at 2000 rpm for 10 minutes.Phase I (a mixture of dimethicone and dimethiconol) is then added to the mixture and agitation is maintained for 5 minutes at 1100 rpm. Phase J (a mixture of a small amount of water with the GRANSIL SIW-078 premix) is then added and agitation is maintained for 3 minutes at 1100 rpm. Once the mixture reaches 40°C, the fragrance (phase K) is added and agitation is maintained for 3 minutes at 1100 rpm. A foundation composition is thus obtained.

[0162] Procedure for composition 8:

[0163] In this method, the pigments used are in the form of a ready-to-use dispersion of iron oxide or titanium dioxide particles in a water / glycerin mixture. The percentages in italics given in Table 2 take into account the overall percentage of each of these components in the final composition (the glycerin and part of the water being supplied by the commercial dispersion used).

[0164] In this procedure, disodium EDTA is solubilized in 43.82% water under stirring to prepare an aqueous phase A. This phase A is maintained under A Rayneri mixer equipped with a deflocculator at 250 rpm is used. Phase B is first prepared by mixing propanediol and ethylhexylglycerin. This phase B is then added to phase A, and the mixture is stirred for 5 minutes at 250 rpm. Ready-to-use pigment dispersions (phase H) are then added to this aqueous mixture: a total of 23.88% by weight of dispersions are added, representing 11.94% by weight of pigments (relative to the total weight of the final composition) and 5.97% by weight of glycerin (relative to the total weight of the final composition). The mixture is stirred for 5 minutes at 400 rpm. Phases C, D, E, F, G, I, J, and K are then added in the same manner as in the procedure described previously for compositions 1 through 7. A foundation composition is thus obtained.

[0165] Evaluations and observations:

[0166] - Stability:

[0167] The stability of the above compositions was studied after preparation and after storage under accelerated conditions at 40°C for 3 months (in a thermostated oven).

[0168] The compositions were evaluated by sensory analysis (appearance, color, and odor). The overall appearance was assessed with the naked eye and under a microscope (Olympus BH2 microscope, 10x10 magnification) to check the color, surface, any release phenomena, phase separation, sedimentation, or agglomeration, as well as the possible presence of precipitates, phase shift, or swirling. The odor was compared with the control composition (stored in the dark at 20°C or in a refrigerator). The results are listed in Table 3 below, in which the following notation is used: C = compliant (absence of phenomena showing instability) NC = non-compliant (phenomena showing instability such as emulsion breakage, inhomogeneous mixing, etc.).

[0169] [Tables 3] Composition Stability Observations 1 (invention) C Smooth appearance and homogeneous distribution of pigments. Composition stable for 3 months at 40°C. 2 NC Unstable emulsion, non-homogeneous distribution of pigments 3 NC Broken emulsion 4 NC Broken emulsion 5 NC Emulsification does not occur 6 NC Presence of pigment agglomerates 7 NC Presence of pigment agglomerates 8 NC Unstable emulsion

[0170] Compositions 2 to 8 do not exhibit a satisfactory appearance for proper application and a homogeneous result, unlike the composition according to the invention. The results show that the particular combination of ingredients according to the invention makes it possible to obtain a composition with a homogeneous distribution of pigments. The composition according to the invention also exhibits very good long-term stability, unlike the comparative compositions. Indeed, composition 1 according to the invention is stable under the accelerated conditions generally used in cosmetics to guarantee long-term stability, such as 3 months at 40°C. Here, composition 1 is also stable under more severe conditions such as 1 month at 50°C in a thermostatically controlled oven.

[0171] - Sensory:

[0172] Five expert panelists evaluated the texture and sensory properties of the foundation obtained according to composition 1 of the invention, and in particular the softness, the non-sticky effect, the freshness on application, the glide, the play-time, the coverage and the uniformity of the film obtained.

[0173] Composition 1 according to the invention has a soft, fine, non-sticky and non-greasy texture to the touch. In addition, the texture is light and does not provide a feeling of heaviness.

[0174] Surprisingly, composition 1 according to the invention combines a refreshing feel upon application, very easy spreading with good glide, sufficiently long workability, and good coverage. In particular, the composition according to the invention makes it possible to obtain even makeup without emphasizing skin imperfections (such as pores or fine lines). The composition according to the invention It thus combines a fresh effect with good sensory properties and good homogeneity of color and spread.

Claims

Demands

1. Cosmetic composition in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion comprising at least one oil phase dispersed in an aqueous phase and comprising: a) at least one alkyl phosphate emulsifier; b) at least one polyoxyalkylated silicone emulsifier; c) at least one aqueous thickener selected from sulfonic motif polymers; and d) at least one pigment surface-treated with a polyoxyalkylated silicone processing agent.

2. Cosmetic composition according to claim 1, wherein the alkyl phosphate emulsifier is selected from cetyl phosphate, stearyl phosphate, cetearyl phosphate and mixtures thereof.

3. Cosmetic composition according to claim 1 or 2, wherein the alkyl phosphate emulsifier is in the form of an alkali metal salt, preferably a potassium salt.

4. A cosmetic composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the polyoxyalkylated silicone emulsifier has an HLB greater than or equal to 9, preferably greater than or equal to 11, more preferably greater than or equal to 13.

5. Cosmetic composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the polyoxyalkylated silicone emulsifier is selected from dimethicone derivative methyl ethers.

6. A cosmetic composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the aqueous thickener is a copolymer comprising an acryloyldimethyltaurate motif, preferably in the form of an ammonia salt.

7. A cosmetic composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the aqueous thickener is a copolymer of acrylamidomethyl propane sulfonic acid and vinylpyrrolidone.

8. Cosmetic composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the pigment is a mineral pigment of iron oxide and / or titanium dioxide.

9. Cosmetic composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the polyoxyalkylened silicone processing agent is a polyoxyalkylated polydimethylsiloxane.

10. Cosmetic composition according to any one of the preceding claims preceding, in which the quantity of pigment treated on the surface with a polyoxyalkylened silicone treatment agent is at least 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

11. A cosmetic composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the amount of pigments surface-treated with a polyoxyalkylened silicone treatment agent is at least 7% by weight, preferably at least 8% by weight, more preferably at least 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

12. Cosmetic composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the oily phase comprises at least one silicone oil.

13. Cosmetic composition according to claim 12, wherein the silicone oil content is at least 5% by weight, preferably at least 10% by weight, more preferably at least 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

14. Cosmetic composition according to any one of the preceding claims, having a water content of at least 40% by weight, preferably at least 45% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

15. Use of a composition according to any one of the preceding claims for skin makeup, preferably as a foundation.