ECO-BIOLOGICAL OILY COSMETIC COMPOSITION FOR MAKE-UP REMOVAL

Abstract

Ecobiological cosmetic composition for removing make-up or cleansing the skin and appendages comprising: - at least one ester of 2-ethylhexanol and fatty acid, preferably chosen from 2-ethylhexyl laurate, 2-ethylhexyl myristate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, 2-ethylhexyl stearate; - between 0.0001% and 10% of water by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Abbreviated figure = [Fig 1]

Description

Title of the invention: OILY ECOBIOLOGICAL COSMETIC COMPOSITION FOR MAKE-UP REMOVER Technical field

[0001] The present invention relates to the field of cosmetic care, and more particularly to oily makeup remover compositions. More specifically, the invention relates to an oily composition, preferably ecobiological, for topical application and its use, in particular in a method for removing makeup, cleaning and / or providing topical care for the skin, lips and / or eyes. Prior art

[0002] Makeup removers and facial cleansers come in the form of oil-in-water (O / W) or water-in-oil (W / O) emulsions, aqueous lotions and gels, anhydrous oily products or those containing very little water.

[0003] However, especially for makeup removal, users seek to obtain the most effective cleaning possible. It is recognized that the deepest makeup removal is obtained by using W / O emulsions and anhydrous oily products, because the fatty phase is directly available to dissolve the various fatty substances present on the skin or resulting from makeup.

[0004] Indeed, in the case of oil-in-water (O / W) emulsions, the oily phase being the internal phase, it is not directly available to dissolve fatty substances and lipophilic impurities. In the case of aqueous lotions or gels, the fatty phase is even totally absent or present in negligible quantity. The make-up removing effectiveness then relies on the presence of surfactants which, in certain cases, can be highly defatting, attack the skin and induce eye irritation phenomena.

[0005] For all these reasons, in recent years, the use of anhydrous or mainly oily makeup remover products has become popular with the public.

[0006] However, the effectiveness of these products for removing make-up is often unsatisfactory.

[0007] In particular, the replacement of mineral and silicone oils with biodegradable raw materials of plant origin, if it is desirable for environmental reasons and to respect skin ecology, can significantly reduce the make-up removing effectiveness of the products and / or induce phenomena of eye or skin irritation.

[0008] Furthermore, the formulation of oily makeup remover products is often complicated due to the desire to have a transparent oily phase, an important element for the attractiveness and acceptability of the product for the consumer. This is all the more true when you want the oily phase to remain transparent, even when removing makeup with water.

[0009] There therefore remains a significant need for the development of a makeup-removing or cleansing formulation for the skin and appendages, preferably ecobiological, predominantly oily, highly effective, well tolerated at the cutaneous and ocular levels by users, and, preferably, made up of the fewest possible ingredients, transparent, easy to rinse and environmentally friendly. Statement of the invention

[0010] The Applicant has found that, surprisingly, the use of a particular class of fatty substances, coupled with a very limited quantity of water, allowed the formulation of a product, advantageously ecobiological, characterized by high make-up removal efficacy and excellent skin and eye tolerance.

[0011] The subject of the present invention is a composition, in particular a makeup remover or cleanser for the skin and appendages, preferably ecobiological, preferably liquid at room temperature and / or transparent and / or biodegradable, comprising: - at least one ester of 2-ethylhexanol and fatty acid, preferably chosen from 2-ethylhexyl laurate, 2-ethylhexyl myristate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, 2-ethylhexyl stearate, more preferably 2-ethylhexyl palmitate;

[0012] - water, preferably less than 10% water by weight relative to the weight total composition, more preferably less than 5% water, even more preferably less than 2% water, even more preferably between 0.1 and 1.5% water;

[0013] - optionally, at least one surfactant having an HLB of between 4 and 15, more preferably between 8 and 11, even more preferably around 10.

[0014] According to a particular embodiment, the composition is transparent.

[0015] By "transparent composition", within the meaning of the invention, is meant a composition which transmits at least 40% of light at a wavelength of 750 nm without diffusing it, that is to say a composition in which the diffraction angle of the light is less than 5°, better is approximately 0°. Several methods for measuring the transmission of light using for example a spectrophotometer are known to those skilled in the art.

[0016] According to a particular embodiment, the composition is liquid at room temperature.

[0017] According to a particular embodiment, the composition is two-phase, preferably consisting of a continuous oily phase and an aqueous phase dispersed in the oily phase, advantageously in the form of a micellar oil.

[0018] According to one embodiment, the compositions according to the invention are environmentally friendly. Advantageously, they are free from non-biodegradable compounds and / or compounds whose method of production has harmful impacts on the environment.

[0019] According to a particular embodiment, the composition is ecobiological.

[0020] By “ecobiological composition” we mean respectful of the person, their interactions with the world and the planet.

[0021] The compositions according to the invention comprise at least one fatty acid ester chosen from 2-ethylhexanol and fatty acid esters, preferentially chosen from 2-ethylhexyl laurate, 2-ethylhexyl myristate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, 2-ethylhexyl stearate, advantageously 2-ethylhexyl palmitate.

[0022] Fatty acid esters suitable for use in the composition according to the invention are available on the market from several suppliers. By way of example, the following raw materials can be used in the composition according to the invention: - AEC Ethylhexyl Laurate and AEC Ethylhexyl Myristate, marketed by the company A & E Connock (Perfumery & Cosmetics) Ltd, which correspond respectively to 2-ethylhexyl laurate (INCI: ethylhexyl laurate) and 2-ethylhexyl myristate (INCI: ethylhexyl myristate) - Crodamol™ OP and Crodamol™ OS marketed by Croda Europe, Ltd which correspond respectively to 2-ethylhexyl palmitate (INCI: ethylhexyl palmitate) and 2-ethylhexyl stearate (INCI: ethylhexyl stearate).

[0023] According to a particular embodiment, the at least one fatty acid ester, advantageously 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, represents more than 20% by total weight of the composition, advantageously more than 40%.

[0024] According to an alternative embodiment, the at least one fatty acid ester, advantageously 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, represents between 20% and 95% by total weight of the composition, advantageously between 40% and 90%.

[0025] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the composition comprises a single fatty acid ester which is 2-ethylhexyl palmitate.

[0026] In addition, and according to a particular embodiment, the compositions according to the invention may also contain other esters or ethers chosen from diethyl adipate, diisopropyl adipate, isostearyl neopentanoate, isopropyl palmitate, dicaprylyl carbonate, coco-caprylate / caprate and dicaprylyl ether.

[0027] For example, these raw materials are available from STEARINERIE DUBOIS (DUB products) and BASF (CETIOL range) under the following references: - Dub DEA corresponding to the INCI designation diethyl adipate (diethyl adipate); - the Dub DIS corresponding to the INCI designation diisopropyl adipate (diisopropyl adipate); - Dub VCI 18 corresponding to the INCI designation isostearyl neopentanoate (isostearyl neopentanoate); - the Dub IPP corresponding to the INCI designation isopropyl palmitate (isopropyl palmitate); - CETIOL CC corresponding to the INCI designation dicaprylyl carbonate (dicaprylyl carbonate); - CETIOL LC corresponding to the INCI designation coco-caprylate / caprate (coco-caprylate / caprate); and - CETIOL OE corresponding to the INCI designation dicaprylyl ether (dicapryl ether).

[0028] According to a particular embodiment, the esters or ethers chosen from diethyl adipate, diisopropyl adipate, isostearyl neopentanoate, isopropyl palmitate, dicaprylyl carbonate, coco-caprylate / caprate and dicaprylyl ether represent overall between 1% and 20% by total weight of the composition, advantageously between 10% and 15%.

[0029] The compositions according to the invention also comprise water, advantageously more than 0.0001% by total weight of the composition, more advantageously more than 0.01%, even more advantageously more than 0.1%.

[0030] According to a particular embodiment, the water represents less than 10% of the total weight of the composition, advantageously less than 5%, more advantageously less than 2%, even more advantageously less than 1.5%.

[0031] According to a particular embodiment, the water represents between 0.0001% and 10% of the total weight of the composition, advantageously between 0.01% and 5%, more advantageously between 0.01% and 2%, even more advantageously between 0.1% and 1.5%.

[0032] According to a particular embodiment, the compositions according to the invention further comprise at least one surfactant or a mixture of surfactants, said surfactant or mixture of surfactants having an HLB of between 4 and 15, more preferably of between 8 and 11, even more preferably of approximately 10.

[0033] Hydrophilic-lipophilic balance (or HLB or hydrophilic-lipophilicity balance) represents a universally recognized measure of the hydrophilicity of surfactants. non-ionic. The scale ranges from 0 to 20, with HLB calculated using Griffin's formula: 1 / molecular mass of the hydrophilic part\ HLB = - X ------------------------------------1 X 100 5 \ total molecular mass / Low values ​​correspond to lipophilic molecules, high values ​​to hydrophilic molecules. HLB values ​​can be determined experimentally according to methods known to those skilled in the art. It should be noted that all HLB values ​​given in the present application are approximate experimental values ​​which may vary slightly with changes in the composition of a given surfactant.

[0034] In a particular embodiment, the at least one surfactant according to the invention is a non-ionic surfactant, advantageously chosen from fatty acid and glycerol esters, advantageously polyglycerol fatty acid esters, and fatty acid and sucrose esters.

[0035] Polyglycerol esters of fatty acids are non-ionic surfactants containing a plurality of hydrophilic glycerol residues (more than 3) covalently linked to one or more fatty acids.

[0036] According to a particular embodiment, the polyglycerol ester of fatty acids according to the invention is chosen from the group consisting of polyglyceryl-4 oleate, polyglyceryl-2 laurate, polyglyceryl-3 palmitate, polyglyceryl-3 dicitrate / stearate, polyglyceryl-3 stearate, advantageously polyglyceryl-4 oleate.

[0037] According to a particular embodiment, the polyglyceryl-4 oleate has a high degree of esterification, advantageously has an HLB of approximately 10.

[0038] Surfactants of the fatty acid ester and glycerol type suitable for use in the composition according to the invention are available on the market from several suppliers.

[0039] By way of example, the following raw materials can be used in the composition according to the invention:

[0040] - DERMOFEEL™ G2L, corresponding to polyglyceryl-2 laurate (INCI: polyglyceryl-2 laurate), marketed by the company DR STRAETMANS;

[0041] - DERMOFEEL™ PP, corresponding to polyglyceryl-3 palmitate (INCI: polyglyceryl-3 palmitate), marketed by the company DR STRAETMANS;

[0042] - HYDRIOL™ PGLO.4, corresponding to polyglyceryl-4 oleate (INCI: polyglyceryl-4 oleate) marketed by the company HYDRIOR;

[0043] - DERMOFEEL ™ PS corresponding to polyglyceryl-3 stearate (INCI: polyglyceryl-3 stearate), marketed by the company DR STRAETMANS;

[0044] - TEGO™ Care PSC 3 corresponding to polyglyceryl-3 dicitrate / stearate (INCI polyglyceryl-3 dicitrate / stearate), marketed by the company EVONIK.

[0045] Sucrose fatty acid esters are non-ionic surfactants containing a sucrose unit covalently linked to one or more fatty acids.

[0046] α-D-glucopyranosyl-PD-fructofuranoside, or saccharose, or sucrose, has 8 free alcohol functions and can therefore be esterified by a maximum of eight fatty acid molecules. The carbon chains of the fatty acids can be more or less long. For example, mention may be made of lauric acid, myristic acid, palmitic acid and stearic acid, with a carbon chain C12, C14, C16 and C18 respectively. The fatty acid is also chosen from saturated fatty acids and unsaturated fatty acids, such as, for example, oleic acid (C18 carbon chain). Thus, according to another characteristic of the invention, the cosmetic composition comprises saccharose of which at least one alcohol function is esterified by a fatty acid chosen from the group of fatty acids having a carbon chain between C12 and C22, advantageously between C16 and C18.

[0047] According to a particular embodiment, fatty acids and sucrose according to the invention are chosen from the group consisting of sucrose laurate, sucrose myristate, sucrose palmitate, sucrose cocoate, sucrose stearate, sucrose distearate, sucrose polystearate, sucrose polybehenate, advantageously sucrose stearate.

[0048] Surfactants of the fatty acid ester and sucrose type suitable for use in the composition according to the invention are available on the market from several suppliers.

[0049] By way of example, the following raw materials can be used in the composition according to the invention:

[0050] - the SURFHOPE™ SE COSME C1216, SURFHOPE™ C1416, SURFHOPE™ C1616, SURFHOPE™ C1811, corresponding respectively to sucrose laurate (INCI: sucrose laurate), sucrose myristate (INCI: sucrose myristate) sucrose palmitate (INCI: sucrose palmitate), sucrose stearate (INCI: sucrose stearate) marketed by the company Mitsubishi-Kagaku Foods;

[0051] - the SISTERNA™ SP30-C, SISTERNA™ SP50-C, corresponding respectively sucrose distearate (INCI: sucrose distearate) and sucrose stearate (INCI: sucrose stearate) marketed by the company SISTERNA;

[0052] -EMULGADE SUCRO PLUS; corresponding to sucrose polystearate / cetyl palmitate (INCI: sucrose polystearate & cetyl palmitate) marketed by the company BASF;

[0053] - CRODADERM™ B corresponding to sucrose polybehenate (INCI: sucrose polybehenate) marketed by the company CRODA;

[0054] - TEGOSOFT™ LSE 65K SOFT corresponding to a cocoate solution of sucrose in water (INCI: sucrose cocoate & aqua) marketed by the company EVONIK.

[0055] According to a particular embodiment, the composition of the invention comprises at least two surfactants according to the invention, preferably at least one fatty acid ester of glycerol and one fatty acid ester of sucrose, in particular polyglyceryl-4 oleate and sucrose stearate. Advantageously, the HLB of this mixture of surfactants is approximately 10.

[0056] According to another particular embodiment, the composition of the invention comprises a single surfactant according to the invention, preferably polyglyceryl-4 oleate or sucrose stearate.

[0057] According to a particular embodiment, the at least one surfactant according to the invention represents between 0.1% and 20% by total weight of the composition, advantageously between 1% and 15%, more advantageously between 5 and 15%, more advantageously between 8 and 12%, even more advantageously 10%.

[0058] In a preferred embodiment, the composition contains 2-ethylhexyl palmitate and polyglyceryl-4 oleate.

[0059] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the water / surfactant mass ratio according to the invention is between 1 / 40 and 1 / 5, advantageously between 1 / 30 and 1 / 10.

[0060] According to one embodiment, the compositions of the invention are free of polyethoxylated surfactants.

[0061] According to a particular embodiment, the compositions according to the invention comprise at least one vegetable oil.

[0062] In the present application, by “vegetable oil” is meant any vegetable oil known to those skilled in the art and suitable for cosmetic use.

[0063] It may be, for example, an oil obtained from leaves, branches, flowers, roots, seeds, of the whole plant. According to a particular embodiment, the at least one vegetable oil is chosen from the group consisting of jojoba oil, sunflower oil, rapeseed oil, sweet almond oil, argan oil, rosehip oil, avocado oil, grape seed oil, apricot oil, evening primrose oil, borage oil, sea buckthorn oil, meadowfoam oil, advantageously rapeseed oil, sunflower oil, meadowfoam oil.

[0064] According to another embodiment, the compositions according to the invention comprise at least two vegetable oils as defined previously and chosen from the group consisting of jojoba oil, sunflower oil, meadowfoam oil, rapeseed oil, sweet almond oil, argan oil, rosehip oil, avocado oil, grape seed oil, apricot oil, evening primrose oil, borage oil, sea buckthorn oil, advantageously rapeseed oil, sunflower oil, meadowfoam oil and jojoba oil. In particular, according to one embodiment, the composition according to the invention contains rapeseed oil and sunflower oil, meadowfoam oil and jojoba oil. These oils are available from several suppliers, such as CAUVIN, BERTIN and VANTAGE under the INCI names Helianthus annuus (sunflower) seed oil and Brassica campestris (rapeseed) seed oil, Limnanthes alba (meadowfoam) seed oil and Simmondsia chinensis (jojoba) seed oil.

[0065] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the composition contains two vegetable oils, present in a mass ratio of 1 / 400 to 1 / 100, advantageously of 1 / 300 to 1 / 200.

[0066] Advantageously, these are sunflower oil and rapeseed oil, respectively. Thus, and according to a particular embodiment of the invention, the compositions according to the invention contain at least two vegetable oils which are respectively sunflower oil and rapeseed oil in a mass ratio of 1 / 400 to 1 / 100, advantageously of 1 / 300 to 1 / 200.

[0067] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the at least one vegetable oil, advantageously sunflower oil and rapeseed oil, represent 10% and 60%, advantageously between 20% and 50% by total weight of the composition.

[0068] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the mass ratio between all the vegetable oil(s) / ester of 2-ethylhexanol and fatty acid, advantageously the 2-ethylhexyl palmitate according to the invention is between 2 / 1 and 1 / 2.

[0069] According to a particular embodiment, the composition according to the invention is free of mineral oils, paraffins, silicone oils, and / or hydrogenated polydecene.

[0070] According to one embodiment, the composition according to the invention is free of gelling agent, in particular of any gum.

[0071] The following gums and their derivatives may be mentioned in particular: - exudates of trees or shrubs including gum arabic, gum ghatti, gum karaya, gum tragacanth and their derivatives; - gums derived from algae including agar, alginates, carrageenans, furcellerans and their derivatives; - gums derived from seeds or tubers including guar gum, locust bean gum, fenugreek gum, tamarind gum, konjac gum and their derivatives; - microbial gums including xanthan gum, gellan gum, scleroglucan or sclerotium gum, and their derivatives; - plant extracts including cellulose, inulin and their derivatives.

[0072] According to a particular embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises: - between 20% and 90% by total weight of the composition of 2-ethylhexyl palmitate;

[0073] -less than 10% by total weight of the composition of water, advantageously less than 5%, more advantageously less than 2% of water.

[0074] According to a distinct embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises:

[0075] - between 20% and 90% by total weight of the composition of 2-ethylhexyl palmitate;

[0076] - between 0.1% and 1.5% by total weight of the water composition.

[0077] According to a particular embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises:

[0078] - between 1% and 20% by total weight of the composition of polyglyceryl-4 oleate;

[0079] - between 20% and 90% by total weight of the composition of 2-ethylhexyl palmitate;

[0080] - less than 10% by total weight of the composition of water, advantageously less than 5%, more advantageously less than 2% of water.

[0081] According to a distinct embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises: - between 1% and 20% by total weight of the composition of polyglyceryl-4 oleate;

[0082] - between 20% and 90% by total weight of the composition of 2-ethylhexyl palmitate;

[0083] - between 0.1% and 1.5% by total weight of the composition of water.

[0084] According to yet another embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises:

[0085] - between 1% and 20% by total weight of the composition of polyglyceryl-4 oleate;

[0086] - between 20% and 90% by total weight of the composition of 2-ethylhexyl palmitate;

[0087] - between 20% and 50% by total weight of the composition of rapeseed oil and / or rapeseed oil sunflower;

[0088] - less than 10% by total weight of the water composition, advantageously less than 5%, more preferably less than 2% water.

[0089] According to yet another embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises:

[0090] - between 1% and 20% by total weight of the composition of polyglyceryl-4 oleate;

[0091] - between 20% and 90% by total weight of the composition of 2-ethylhexyl palmitate;

[0092] - between 20% and 50% by total weight of the composition of rapeseed oil and / or rapeseed oil sunflower;

[0093] - between 0.1% and 1.5% by total weight of the water composition.

[0094] According to a particular embodiment, the composition according to the invention also comprises, in the form of active principle, at least one amino acid, amino acid derivative or dipeptide, preferentially chosen from the group consisting of: creatine, creatinine, carnosine, pyrrolidone-carboxylic acid, lysine, arginine, proline, hydroxyproline, and their salts.

[0095] These active ingredients are available from several suppliers of cosmetic raw materials. For example, we can cite: - TEGO™ Cosmo C 100 and TEGO™ Cosmo C 250 marketed by Evonik Nutrition & Care GmbH which correspond respectively to creatine (INCI: creatine) and creatinine (INCI: creatinine); - KOPSINE marketed by the company Kumar Organic Products Ltd which corresponds to carnosine (INCI: carnosine); - Dermidrol marketed by the company Esperis, SpA which corresponds to the sodium salt of pyrrolidone-carboxylic acid (INCI: sodium PCA); - BIOTIVE™ ARGININE marketed by the company SYMRISE which corresponds to arginine (INCI: arginine); - AEC Lysine, AEC Proline and AEC Hydroxy-L-Proline marketed by the company A & E Connock (Perfumery & Cosmetics) Ltd. which correspond respectively to lysine (INCI: lysine), proline (INCI: proline) and hydroxyproline (INCI: hydroxyproline).

[0096] Advantageously, the at least one amino acid, amino acid derivative or dipeptide represents between 0.01% and 0.8% by total weight of the composition, advantageously between 0.1% and 0.5%.

[0097] The composition according to the invention may also contain active ingredients having depigmenting, antioxidant or anti-inflammatory properties, for example: - lysine azeilate, or other derivatives or salts of azelaic acid; - andrographolide, in particular the extract of Andrographis paniculata corresponding to the INCI designation Andrographis paniculata leaf extract; - native ascorbic acid (vitamin C) or its derivatives, in particular the derivatives corresponding to the INCI ascorbyl glucoside, ethyl ascorbic acid, ascorbyl methylsilanol pectinate, sodium ascorbyl phosphate and ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate, advantageously ascorbyl glucoside; - arbutin or a plant extract containing it, in particular bearberry extract corresponding to the INCI designation Arctostaphylos uva-ursi leaf extract; - glabridin or a plant extract containing it, in particular liquorice extracts corresponding to the INCI designation Glycyrrhiza glabra root extract, Glycyrrhiza inflata root extract, Glycyrrhiza uralensis root extract; - glycyrrhetinic acid, a derivative or a salt of this acid, advantageously stearyl glycyrrhetinate; - an aqueous extract of an algae called Palmaria palmata, in particular the extract corresponding to the INCI designation Palmaria palmata extract; - tocopherol, or one of its derivatives; - 4-n-butylresorcinol; - benzotriazolyl dodecyl p-cresol; - an extract of laminaria algae, advantageously Laminaria ochroleuca; - their mixtures.

[0098] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the composition comprises:

[0099] - an extract of laminaria algae, advantageously of Laminaria ochroleuca;

[0100] - glycyrrhetinic acid, a derivative or a salt of this acid, advantageously stearyl glycyrrhetinate.

[0101] According to a particular embodiment, the extract of laminaria algae, advantageously of Laminaria ochroleuca, and glycyrrhetinic acid, a derivative or a salt of this acid, advantageously stearyl glycyrrhetinate, represent between 0.0001% and 0.01% by total weight of the composition, advantageously between 0.001% and 0.1%.

[0102] The composition may also contain active ingredients having moisturizing properties, such as for example: - a lipophilic extract of apple seed (Pyrus malus) and / or - niacinamide or vitamin PP.

[0103] Advantageously, the at least one active ingredient having moisturizing properties, advantageously chosen from a lipophilic extract of apple seed (Pyrus malus) and / or niacinamide or vitamin PP represents between 0.0001% and 0.01% by total weight of the composition, advantageously between 0.001% and 0.1%.

[0104] The composition according to the invention may also contain active ingredients having sebocorrective, keratolytic, sebum-regulating properties and / or anti-acne activity, in order to allow the formulation of products treating acne.

[0105] For example, the composition according to the invention may comprise an antimicrobial or anti-acne agent chosen from the active ingredients corresponding to the INCI designations propyl gallate, dodecyl gallate, Ginkgo biloba leaf extract, bakuchiol, dihydromyricetin, zinc gluconate, salicylic acid, or mixtures thereof.

[0106] Advantageously, the compositions according to the invention are free from any preservative.

[0107] The term "preservative", within the meaning of the present invention, encompasses all preservatives stricto sensu, in particular as listed by regulation (for example in Regulation EC No. 1223 / 2009 of the European Parliament and of the Council of November 30, 2009 relating to cosmetic products, definition article 2.1.1 and Annex V). In particular, the compositions according to the invention are free from any quaternary ammonium, ethanol, phenols, amidines, isothiazolone derivatives, parahydroxybenzoic esters (known as parabens), etc.

[0108] Advantageously, the cosmetic composition according to the invention is free of polyethoxylated surfactant and / or mineral oil and / or paraffin and / or silicone oil and / or hydrogenated polydecene and / or gelling agent and / or preservative.

[0109] Advantageously, the composition according to the invention further comprises at least one alkanediol, preferably chosen from 1,2-alkanediols or 1,3-alkanediols or mixtures thereof.

[0110] According to a particular embodiment, the alkanediol is chosen from the group comprising the compounds corresponding to the following INCI designations: propylene glycol, 1,3-propanediol, 2-methyl-1,3-propanediol, 1,2-pentanediol, 1,2-hexanediol, caprylyl glycol, 1,2-decanediol, 2-methyl-2,4-pentanediol, advantageously 1,3-propanediol.

[0111] These alkanediols are available from several suppliers of cosmetic raw materials. By way of example, one can cite: - EVO-100™ marketed by ARCHER DANIELS MIDLAND COMPANY and corresponding to the INCI designation propylene glycol; - ZEMEA™ marketed by DUPONT-TATE & LYLE BIOPRODUCTS and corresponding to the INCI designation 1,2-propanediol; - DUB DIOL™ marketed by the company STEARINERIE DUBOIS and corresponding to the INCI designation 2-methyl-1,3-propanediol; - Hydrolite-5™, Hydrolite-6™, Hydrolite-8™ and SymClariol 344028™ marketed by the company SYMRISE and corresponding respectively to the INCI designations 1,2-pentanediol, 1,2-hexanediol, caprylyl glycol and 1,2-decanediol;

[0112] According to a preferred embodiment, the at least one alkanediol, advantageously 1,3-propanediol, represents between 0.001% and 1% by total weight of the composition, advantageously between 0.01% and 0.2%.

[0113] The composition according to the invention may also contain adjuvants such as those usually used in the field of cosmetics, such as antioxidants, complexing agents, solvents, perfumes, fillers, electrolytes, odor absorbers, coloring matters. The choice of these adjuvants, as well as their concentrations, must be determined in such a way that they do not modify the properties and advantages sought for the composition of the present invention.

[0114] The composition of the invention is a makeup removing composition or a composition for cleaning and / or caring for keratin surfaces, preferably the skin, mucous membranes and appendages (i.e. hair, body hair and nails).

[0115] The composition according to the invention being intended for topical application, it contains a physiologically acceptable medium, that is to say compatible with the skin, mucous membranes, nails, hair, hair and scalp. The composition may in particular be a cosmetic or dermatological composition.

[0116] According to another aspect, the invention also relates to a cosmetic process for removing make-up, cleaning and / or caring for the skin and / or lips comprising the following steps: - the topical application of a composition as defined above; - rinsing with water.

[0117] The manner in which the invention can be implemented and the advantages which result therefrom will emerge more clearly from the following examples of implementation, given for informational and non-limiting purposes.

[0118] The following examples form an integral part of the invention and any characteristic which appears to be new over the prior art is claimed as such and as a general means. Brief description of the drawings

[0119] [Fig.l] shows the in vivo evaluation on 10 volunteers of the make-up removing power of different products on waterproof mascara after 12 circular movements and 2 passes with a damp cotton pad. Detailed description of the invention

[0120] Example I - Formulation of an oily cosmetic makeup remover composition according to the invention

[0121] A formulation of an oily cosmetic makeup remover composition according to the invention is presented in Table 1 below.

[0122] [Table 1] Formulation of makeup remover composition according to the invention Designation INC! % Ethylhexyl palmitate 45.00 Brassica campestris (rapeseed) seed oil 43.60 Polyglyceryl-4 oleate (HLB approximately 10) 10.00 Aqua / water / eau 0.795 Tocopherol 0.35 Helianthus annuus (sunflower) seed oil 0.15 Propanediol 0.10 Creatine 0.005

[0123] Procedure: the vegetable oils and the tocopherol are mixed together at 35°C with vigorous stirring. The aqueous phase, the propanediol and the creatine are added to the surfactant heated to 50°C with stirring. This mixture is then added to the oily phase and then stirred. The 2-ethylhexyl palmitate is added to the mixture thus obtained and the formula is allowed to cool to room temperature, homogenizing all the components until the composition is clear.

[0124] The final formula is presented in the form of a transparent, completely clear liquid oil.

[0125] Example II- Evaluation of the make-up removing power of compositions according to the invention

[0126] II-1 Introduction The objective of the study is to determine in vivo the makeup removing power of several compositions according to the invention on highly waterproof mascara.

[0127] 11-2 Materials and methods II-2.1 Formulas under study

[0128] Formulas 1-4 (Table 2) were implemented and used in the tests, according to a procedure analogous to that described for the formula of Example 1.

[0129] These formulas are liquid at room temperature and transparent.

[0130] [Table 2]: Formulas 1-4 INCI designation Flel(%) Fle2%) Fle3(%) Fle4(%) Polyglyceryl-4 oleate (HLB approximately 10) 10.00 10.00 10.00 10.00 Ethylhexyl palmitate - 45.00 45.00 88.70 Caprylic / capric triglyceride 45.00 - - - Brassica campestris (rapeseed) seed oil 43.70 44.50 43.70 - Helianthus annuus (sunflower) seed oil 0.15 0.15 0.15 0.15 Tocopherol 0.35 0.35 0.35 0.35 Aqua / water / eau 0.80 - 0.80 0.8

[0131] II.2.2Study procedure: makeup removal power The study was conducted on the forearms of 10 volunteers (7 phototypes III, 2 phototypes II and 1 phototype IV). The selected volunteers were asked not to apply anything to their forearms before the test.

[0132] Measurement areas were delimited with 3X3 cm covers.

[0133] The color of the area was measured by chromametry (device: Konica Minolta CR 400) by determining the L* value. Each measurement detailed below was carried out in triplicate and the result retained is the average of the three measurements.

[0134] Before applying the makeup remover, the initial color (To) of the skin was determined. Subsequently, 20pl of highly waterproof mascara (Maybelline Makeup Great Lash Waterproof Mascara) was applied to each area, followed by air drying (5min): At this stage, the measurement of the skin color after applying the mascara was carried out (Ti).

[0135] The products to be tested were applied as follows: 200 μl of product were spread on the test area by making 6 circular movements in a clockwise direction using a finger cot. The area was moistened with 50 μl of water and 6 new counterclockwise circular movements were made using a finger cot.

[0136] Cleaning was carried out by soaking a Demak'up cotton pad with 6ml of water and rinsing the area in the following standardised manner: 1 pass with one side of the disc (without rubbing) then 1 other pass with the other side of the disc (again without rubbing).

[0137] Following air drying of the test area, the skin color after makeup removal was measured (T2).

[0138] The percentage of makeup removal is calculated from the difference between the L* measurements obtained at T0, T1 and T2 according to the following formula M = 1 - [(L ^-L / Œ

[0139] The statistical significance of the observed differences was determined with the Student test.

[0140] 11-3 Results and conclusions The results are shown in [Fig.l].

[0141] The makeup removal percentages obtained for formulations fie 1 and fie 2 are comparable (no significant difference, Student's test: p > 0.05). All other differences (fie 1 vs fie 3, fie 2 vs fie 3, fie 1 vs fie 4, fie 2 vs fie 4, fie 3 vs fie 4) are statistically significant (Student's test: p < 0.05).

[0142] Formulation fie 1, which contains 0.8% water and an ester (caprylic / capric triglyceride, caprylic / capric triglycerides), allows for a makeup removal of 19.9% under experimental conditions. By replacing the ester present in this fie 1 formulation with the same amount of a monoester according to the invention (ethylhexyl palmitate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate), the makeup-removing power surprisingly increases to 34.5% (formulation fie 3). Formulation fie 4, which is similar to formulation fie 3 but in which the ethylhexyl palmitate represents 88.7% by total weight of the composition, has a makeup-removing power of 54%.

[0143] Particularly surprisingly, the removal of the marginal amount of water present in formula fie 3 (0.8%) significantly reduces the cleansing power (formula fie 2, 24.7%).

[0144] It is noted that no intolerance reaction was observed in the volunteers.

[0145] Furthermore, the fie 3 and fie 4 formulas according to the invention have demonstrated very good cutaneous and ocular tolerance.

Claims

Claims

1. Cosmetic composition, in particular for removing make-up or cleansing the skin and appendages, comprising: - at least one ester of 2-ethylhexanol and fatty acid representing more than 40% by total weight of the composition; - between 0.0001% and 10% of water by weight relative to the total weight of the composition; - at least one surfactant or a mixture of surfactants, characterized in that: - it is free from polyethoxylated surfactant; - the surfactant is polyglyceryl-4 oleate; and - said at least one ester of 2-ethylhexanol and fatty acid is 2-ethylhexyl palmitate.

2. Composition according to claim 1, characterized in that it is liquid at room temperature.

3. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it comprises between 0.01% and 5% of water by total weight of the composition, advantageously between 0.01% and 2%, preferably between 0.1% and 1.5%.

4. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that said surfactant or mixture of surfactants has an HLB of between 4 and 15, more preferably of between 8 and 11, even more preferably of approximately 10.

5. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the polyglyceryl-4 oleate has an HLB of approximately 10.

6. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the surfactant represents between 0.1% and 20% by total weight of the composition, advantageously between 1% and 15%.

7. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it consists of a continuous oily phase and an aqueous phase dispersed in the oily phase.

8. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it is free from mineral oil and / or paraffin and / or silicone oil and / or hydrogenated polydecene and / or gelling agent and / or preservative.

9. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it further contains at least one vegetable oil representing

10. between 10% and 60%, advantageously between 20% and 50% by total weight of the composition. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it comprises rapeseed oil, sunflower oil, meadowfoam oil and jojoba oil, advantageously rapeseed oil and sunflower oil.

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