A generously packed composition for the manufacture of solid cosmetic products

Abstract

The present invention relates to a foamed cosmetic composition comprising: at least one crystalline polyol, at least one surfactant selected from anionic and / or amphoteric surfactants, at least one cationic oligomer or polymer, water, and at least one gas, such that the composition has a density less than or equal to 0.7 g / cm³. It further relates to a solid, aerated cosmetic product, particularly of the meringue type, obtained by dehydrating this composition. The invention also relates to the use of the above composition for the manufacture of a solid, aerated cosmetic product, particularly of the meringue type.

Description

Title of the invention: Foamed composition for the manufacture of solid cosmetic products. OBJECT OF THE INVENTION

[0001] The present invention relates to an aerated cosmetic composition comprising: at least one crystalline polyol, at least one surfactant selected from anionic and / or amphoteric surfactants, at least one cationic oligomer or polymer, water, and at least one gas, such that the composition has a density less than or equal to 0.7 g / cm³. It further relates to a solid, aerated cosmetic product, particularly of the meringue type, obtained by dehydrating this composition. The invention also relates to the use of the above composition for the manufacture of a solid, aerated cosmetic product, particularly of the meringue type. BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION

[0002] Consumers of cosmetic products are increasingly aware of environmental and health issues. Single-use solid cosmetic products have thus gained popularity in recent years. These products require simple biodegradable packaging made of paper or cardboard, unlike conventional shampoos or shower gels, which are usually packaged in plastic containers. Furthermore, since they are virtually water-free, and water is necessary for the growth of microorganisms, these products can be formulated without preservatives. Compared to a traditional bar of soap, they also meet a recent need for portable products, well-suited to the lifestyle of increasingly mobile consumers. These products also have the advantage of being available in various shapes and textures, giving them a playful appeal.In this context, single-use solid cosmetic products have been proposed, presented in various forms, generally as bars or pebbles.

[0003] Although, to the Applicant's knowledge, no corresponding products exist on the market, aerated solid cosmetic products similar to meringues have also been proposed. Document FR 3 104 417 discloses shampoo meringues prepared from an aqueous aerated composition containing cationic conditioning polymers, anionic surfactants, and corn starch, essential for structuring the composition, as well as polyols such as glycerin, which contribute to the desired viscosity of the composition and to the dissolution of the meringues. These meringues require 3 to 6 rubs under water to dissolve. Furthermore, document WO2020 / 053584 describes A cosmetic product in the form of a meringue, prepared from a whipped mixture containing sucrose, an anionic surfactant, and aquafaba (chickpea cooking water). The formulation of these products requires the prior preparation of the aquafaba, which complicates the manufacturing process. Furthermore, a stabilizing agent such as potassium tartrate (cream of tartar) must be added to the mixture to denature the chickpea proteins and thus stabilize the meringue, preventing it from collapsing.

[0004] There remains a need for aerated compositions that do not present the above drawbacks. In particular, it would be desirable to have homogeneous aerated compositions that do not have a sticky appearance, allowing the preparation of solid cosmetic products with a regular appearance that are sufficiently hard, non-granular, voluminous, and of low density, such as meringues. It would also be desirable to have solid cosmetic compositions that are stable over time and capable of dissolving instantly in water without friction and without leaving any residue, to form a creamy foam. Summary of the invention

[0005] The invention thus relates to a loosely packed cosmetic composition comprising: - at least one crystalline polyol, - at least one surfactant chosen from anionic and / or amphoteric surfactants, - water, - at least one gas, so that the composition has a density less than or equal to 0.7 g / cm3,

[0006] characterized in that the composition contains at least one oligomer or cationic polymer.

[0007] It also relates to a solid, airy cosmetic product, in particular of the meringue type, obtained by dehydration of this composition.

[0008] The invention also relates to the use of the above composition for the manufacture of an aerated solid cosmetic product, in particular of the meringue type.

[0009] Another object of the invention relates to a process for manufacturing aerated solid cosmetic products, in particular of the meringue type, comprising the dehydration of the aerated composition described above. DETAILED DESCRIPTION

[0010] The various constituents of the composition according to the invention will now be described in detail.

[0011] It is understood that, in the remainder of this description, when ranges of values ​​are indicated, the bounds of these ranges are included.

[0012] In addition, the determinant "the" applied to each of the constituents of the composition designates both a single compound and a mixture of compounds when that constituent is formed from a mixture of compounds. Anionic and / or amphoteric surfactants

[0013] Anionic surfactants may be selected from amphiphilic compounds having one or more sulfate and / or sulfonate and / or carboxylate and / or phosphate groups in their structure. According to one embodiment (which is not preferred), these compounds may optionally be oxyethylenated and / or oxypropylenated and then preferably having from 1 to 50 ethylene oxide or propylene oxide units, more preferably from 1 to 10 ethylene oxide or propylene oxide units. These surfactants are generally in the form of salts, in particular as salts of alkali metals (especially sodium or potassium) or alkaline earth metals (especially magnesium or calcium), ammonium, or amino alcohols. Examples of amino alcohol salts include mono-, di- and triethanolamine salts, mono-, di- or tri-isopropanolamine salts, 2-amino 2-methyl 1-propanol salts, 2-amino 2-methyl 1,3-propanediol and tris(hydroxymethyl)aminomethane salts.Salts of alkali or alkaline earth metals are preferred, and in particular sodium or magnesium salts.

[0014] Anionic carboxylate surfactants can be selected from acyl amino acid salts whose acyl group contains from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, in particular from 12 to 28, or even better from 14 to 24, or even from 16 to 22, carbon atoms. Examples of such compounds are acylglutamate salts, particularly C6-C24 or even C12-C20, such as sodium acylglutamate salts, in particular stearoyl glutamate and lauroyl glutamate; alkyl acyl taurate salts, in particular sodium methyl cocoyl taurate and methyl lauroyl taurate salts; acylsarcosinates, especially C6-C24, or even C12-C20, such as sodium palmitoylsarcosinate and sodium lauroylsarcosinate; C6-C24 acylglycinate salts, especially C12-C20, such as sodium cocoyl glycinate and lauroyl glycinate salts; and mixtures thereof.

[0015] Alternatively, the anionic carboxylate surfactants can be chosen from among the acyllactylates, in particular in C12-C28, or even in C14-C24, such as sodium lauroyllactylates and stearoyllactylates.

[0016] Alternatively, the anionic carboxylate surfactants can be chosen from the salts of C12-C22 carboxylic acids, in particular the salts of palmitic, stearic, gluconic, sorbic, oxalic and tartaric acid.

[0017] Anionic sulfonate surfactants may be selected from the salts of the following compounds: alkylsulfonates, alkylamide sulfonates, alkylarylsulfonates, alpha-olefin sulfonates, paraffin sulfonates, alkylsulfosuccinates, alkylethersulfosuccinates, alkylamidesulfosuccinates, alkylsulfoacetates, N-acyltaurates, acyl isethionates; alkylsulfolaurates; the alkyl groups of these compounds having from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, especially from 12 to 28, even better from 14 to 24, or even from 16 to 22, carbon atoms; the aryl group preferably designating a phenyl or benzyl group.

[0018] Preferably, the anionic sulfonate surfactants are chosen from, alone or in mixtures:

[0019] - C6-C24 alkylsulfosuccinate salts, particularly C12-C20, in particular laurylsulfosuccinates; - C6-C24 alkyl ether sulfosuccinate salts, particularly C12-C20;

[0020] - acyl isethionate salts in C6-C24, preferably in C12-C18.

[0021] Anionic sulfate surfactants can be selected from the salts of the following compounds: alkyl sulfates, alkyl ethers sulfates, alkylamidoether sulfates, alkylaryl polyethersulfates, monoglyceride sulfates; the alkyl groups of these compounds having from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, in particular from 12 to 28, even better from 14 to 24, or even from 16 to 22, carbon atoms; the aryl group preferably designating a phenyl or benzyl group.

[0022] Preferably, anionic sulfate surfactants are chosen from among the alkyl sulfate salts, in particular in C6-C24, or even in C12-C20, such as coco sulfates.

[0023] Anionic phosphate surfactants may in particular be selected from alkyl phosphate salts, such as potassium cetyl phosphate, and phosphoric acid esters such as phospholipids.

[0024] Preferably, the anionic surfactants are chosen from among anionic surfactants of the carboxylate, sulfonate, or phosphate type, not containing oxyethylenated and oxypropylenated groups, and more particularly from among:

[0025] - acyl isethionate salts, such as that identified under the INCI name SODIUM COCOYL ISETHIONATE

[0026] - N-acylated amino acid salts, such as SODIUM COCOYL GLYCINATE and SODIUM LAUROYL GLUTAMATE,

[0027] - carboxylic acid salts,

[0028] - alkyl phosphate salts and phosphoric acid esters,

[0029] - and their mixtures,

[0030] preferably among acyl isethionate salts, N-acylated amino acid salts and mixtures thereof.

[0031] The anionic surfactants used in the composition according to the invention are preferably in powder form.

[0032] For their part, amphoteric surfactants are notably chosen from among alkyl(C8-C2o)betaines, alkyl(C8-C20)sulfobetaines, alkyl(C8-C2o)amidoalkyl(C3-C8)betaines and alkyl(C8-C2o)amidalkyl(C6-C8)sulfobetaines, notably cocamidopropyl betaine.

[0033] The surfactant (anionic and / or amphoteric) advantageously represents a total of 2 to 20% and preferably 3 to 17% of the total weight of the composition. Furthermore, it is preferred that the weight ratio between the surfactant and the water contained in the composition be between 0.05 and 0.45, more preferably between 0.25 and 0.45. Water

[0034] The composition according to the invention contains water, advantageously representing 30 to 50% by weight and preferably 35 to 45% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0035] The aerated composition according to the invention generally has a pH ranging from 5.5 to 7.5 and preferably from 6 to 7. Cationic oligomer or polymer

[0036] The composition according to the invention comprises at least one oligomer or cationic polymer. This expression includes compounds having one or more positive charges at a pH of 5.5 to 7.5, preferably 6 to 7, and which are devoid of negative charges, as well as compounds having both positive and negative charges but whose overall charge is positive.

[0037] Preferably, according to the invention, at least one cationic peptide, advantageously obtained from protein hydrolysis, is used as a cationic oligomer. Plant protein hydrolysates, and in particular pea protein hydrolysates, are defined as preparations obtained by enzymatic hydrolysis, chemical hydrolysis, or both simultaneously or successively, of plant proteins. Protein hydrolysates consist of a mixture of peptides of different sizes and free amino acids. The processes for preparing protein hydrolysates are well known to those skilled in the art and may, for example, include a step of dispersing the proteins in water to obtain a suspension, followed by a step of hydrolyzing this suspension by the chosen treatment. Most often, this will be an enzymatic treatment combining a mixture of different proteases, possibly followed by a heat treatment intended to inactivate any remaining active enzymes.The resulting solution can then be filtered through one or more membranes to separate insoluble compounds and possibly any residual enzyme.

[0038] Preferably, one or more cationic peptides resulting from the hydrolysis of pea proteins are used as the cationic oligomer according to the invention. "Pea" refers to plants of the genus Pisum, and more particularly of the species Pisum sativum L. According to Pownall, Udenigwe et al., J. Agr. Food. Chem., 2010, 58, 4712-4718, peas (Pisum sativum L.) are composed of 17.69% charged amino acids. positively charged amino acids (arginine, histidine, lysine) and 28.35% negatively charged amino acids (aspartic acid, glutamic acid, aromatic amino acid). When pea proteins are hydrolyzed by thermolysine, they yield a total of 14.54% anionic peptides and 27.71% cationic peptides.

[0039] Alternatively, a cationic polymer, and more particularly a non-siliconized polymer with thickening properties, may be used. "Thickening" means a compound identified as such by its function in the CTFA Dictionary. Among the cationic polymers that can be used for this purpose, silicone-containing polymers are not preferred.Examples of cationic polymers usable in the present invention are: polyaminoamides; cationic polysaccharides, in particular cationic celluloses such as Polyquaternium-10, cationic guar gums such as hydroxypropyltrimonium guar chloride, cationic inulin such as hydroxypropyltrimonium inulin chloride; cationic alkylpolyglycosides; homopolymers or copolymers of dialkyldiallylammonium halides, in particular dialkyldiallylamine and dialkyldiallylammonium copolymers, Polyquatemium-6 and Polyquatemium-7; crosslinked polymers of 2-methacryloyloxyethyl trialkyl ammonium salts, such as 2-methacryloyloxyethyl trimethyl ammonium halides, in particular Polyquaternium-37; and mixtures thereof. Among these cationic polymers, cationic polysaccharides are preferred.

[0040] The amount of oligomer or cationic polymer used in the composition according to the invention generally represents 0.1 to 3% by weight; it is preferably 0.5 to 1.5% by weight in the case of a cationic polysaccharide and 0.1 to 1% by weight in the case of cationic peptides, relative to the total weight of the composition. Crystalline polyol

[0041] The composition according to the invention comprises at least one crystalline polyol. "Polyol" is understood to mean a compound with a linear, branched, or cyclic hydrocarbon structure, containing only carbon, hydrogen, and optionally oxygen atoms, of which at least two distinct carbon atoms bear a hydroxyl group. "Crystalline" is understood to mean that these polyols are in powder form and not in liquid form. Examples of crystalline polyols usable according to the invention may be chosen from monomers or dimers of sugars, possibly hydrogenated, such as glucose, sucrose, sorbitol, mannitol, xylitol, lactitol, erythritol, isomalt, and maltitol, more preferably from sorbitol and sucrose.

[0042] This definition therefore excludes polyols such as glycerol, 1,3-propanediol, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, pentylene glycol, hexylene glycol, caprylyl glycol, and decanediol. Polysaccharides are also excluded from the polyols used according to the present invention.

[0043] The crystalline polyol advantageously represents at least 20% by weight, preferably 30 to 55% by weight, and more preferably 40 to 50% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. It is also preferred that the weight ratio between the surfactant and the crystalline polyol be between 0.05 and 0.6, and more preferably between 0.2 and 0.5. The weight ratio between the polyol and water is advantageously between 0.5 and 2.0, more preferably between 0.8 and 1.6, and even better, between 0.9 and 1.5. Gas

[0044] The composition according to the invention further comprises at least one gas, which may in particular be selected from air, nitrogen, oxygen and carbon dioxide, as well as mixtures thereof. Air and nitrogen are preferred for use in the present invention, in particular air.

[0045] Due to the presence of the aforementioned gas within its structure, the composition has a density less than or equal to 0.7 g / cm³, advantageously between 0.01 and 0.5 g / cm³, and preferably between 0.1 and 0.3 g / cm³. The density can be measured conventionally using a pycnometer or beaker of known volume. The bulking ratio <e>The composition is defined as the increase in composition volume due to the incorporation of the gas phase and illustrated by the following formula:

[0046] [Chem.l] = [(pc - P») / pœ] * 100

[0047] where pc is the density of the composition before expansion and pm is its density after expansion.

[0048] The expansion rate of the composition according to the invention before dehydration is generally between 50 and 500%. Additional components

[0049] The composition according to the invention may also include at least one aqueous thickening or gelling polymer, namely a polymeric compound capable of immobilizing water molecules by hydrating and thus increasing the viscosity of the aqueous phase, in addition to the oligomer or cationic polymer present in the composition, when the latter has this function.

[0050] Such a thickener may be chosen from non-cationic polymers and in particular: polysaccharides, such as: cellulose and its derivatives, carrageenan, agar agar, alginates, xanthan gum and vegetable gums such as guar, tara or locust bean gum; synthetic polymers and in particular sodium acrylate homopolymers, possibly crosslinked, as well as acrylic copolymers, in particular acrylate copolymers of sodium and / or alkyl (meth)acrylate and / or hydroxyalkyl (meth)acrylate and / or (polyethoxy)alkyl (meth)acrylate, optionally with at least one other monomer, advantageously 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid (AMPS), these copolymers optionally being crosslinked; and mixtures thereof. A polysaccharide is preferred, and xanthan gum is better.

[0051] This thickener can represent from 0.1 to 2% by weight and preferably from 0.3 to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0052] The composition used according to the invention may also include one or more other constituents chosen for example from: perfumes; antioxidants; pH adjusters; pigments; colorants; and mixtures thereof.

[0053] It may also contain one or more active ingredients chosen in particular from among moisturizing and repairing or strengthening active ingredients for hair. Examples of active ingredients that can be used in the composition according to the invention are: polyols such as glycerol and propanediol, ceramides and pseudoceramides, vitamins, trace elements, proteins and their hydrolysates, in particular hydrolyzed wheat proteins (Phytokeratin), plant extracts and in particular hydrosols and floral waters, and mixtures thereof.

[0054] The aerated composition may further comprise one or more fats, provided that their quantity does not exceed 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. These fats may be selected from vegetable butters, oils, waxes, and mixtures thereof. "Vegetable butter" is defined as a pasty fat with a reversible liquid / solid phase change, exhibiting an anisotropic crystalline structure in the solid state and comprising, at a temperature of 23°C, a liquid fraction and a solid fraction. Examples of vegetable butters include shea, cocoa, almond, olive, and mango butters, and mixtures thereof.For the purposes of this invention, "oil" means a liquid compound at room temperature (25°C) and atmospheric pressure (105 Pa) which, when introduced at a concentration of at least 1% by weight into water at 25°C, is either completely insoluble in water or soluble to a degree of less than 10% by weight relative to the weight of oil introduced into the water. Oils may be volatile or non-volatile. "Non-volatile oil" in this description means an oil that remains on the skin at 25°C and atmospheric pressure for at least one hour, in the absence of friction, and / or has a vapor pressure of less than 0.001 mm Hg under these conditions. The oils included in the composition according to the invention may or may not be volatile; advantageously, they are non-volatile. Alternatively, it may be a mixture of non-volatile oils (majority by weight) and volatile oils (minority by weight).

[0055] It is preferred that volatile and non-volatile oils be chosen from among hydrocarbon oils, that is to say, that they contain exclusively atoms of carbon, hydrogen and possibly oxygen.

[0056] Examples of volatile oils include linear alkanes in Cl 1 to C14, as well as essential oils, particularly immortelle, lavender or citrus.

[0057] Examples of non-volatile oils include: esters of acids and monoalcohols, such as the mixture of coco caprate and caprylate, shea butter ethyl ester, isostearyl isostearate, isononyl isononanoate, isopropyl myristate, ethylhexyl palmitate, hexyl laurate, and mixtures thereof; C6-C12 fatty acid triglycerides; C10-C20 branched and / or unsaturated fatty alcohols; hydrocarbons such as vegetable squalane extracted from olive oil; dialkyl carbonates, such as dicaprylyl carbonate and diethylhexyl carbonate; dialkyl ethers such as dicaprylyl ether; and mixtures thereof.

[0058] We can also mention vegetable oils which contain one or more of the aforementioned constituents, in particular wheat germ oil, sunflower oil, argan oil, hibiscus oil, coriander oil, grape seed oil, sesame oil, corn oil, apricot oil, castor oil, shea oil, avocado oil, olive oil, soybean oil, sweet almond oil, palm oil, rapeseed oil, cottonseed oil, hazelnut oil, macadamia oil, jojoba oil, alfalfa oil, poppy oil, pumpkin oil, squash oil, rapeseed oil, blackcurrant oil, evening primrose oil, lavender oil, borage oil, millet oil, barley oil, quinoa oil, rye oil, safflower oil, candlenut oil, passionflower oil, rosehip oil or camellia oil.

[0059] The term "wax" in the context of this description refers to a solid fat at 25 °C, with a reversible solid / liquid phase change, having a melting point generally between 30 and 160 °C, preferably between 50 and 90 °C, as measured by Differential Scanning Calorimetry (DSC). Examples of waxes include, in particular, hydrogenated vegetable oils, notably hydrogenated soybean, coconut, castor, rapeseed, almond, and olive oils, and mixtures thereof.

[0060] In contrast, the composition according to the invention is preferably free of aquafaba. By this term, we mean the cooking water of legumes, in particular chickpeas. The composition according to the invention is also generally free of native, chemically modified and / or hydrolyzed starch. Preparation process

[0061] The composition described above can be prepared by means of a process comprising the following successive steps:

[0062] - the mixture of crystalline polyol, water, surfactant, oligomer or polymer cationic and any additional constituents,

[0063] - the introduction of gas into this mixture to form a loosely packed composition, in sufficient quantity so that the aerated composition has a density of less than 0.7 g / cm3.

[0064] The introduction of gas into the composition can be carried out in a mixer, using mechanical stirring means. Mixers of this type include, in particular, aeration systems such as those available from HAAS under the trade name Mondomix®. The gas can be introduced at a temperature of 20 to 90°C, for example from 25 to 80°C, and in particular from 40 to 70°C.

[0065] The aerated composition thus obtained is used for the formation of single doses of solid product, according to a process comprising the steps of:

[0066] - pouring single doses of the composition, generally onto a plate, by for example, using a piping bag or a piping bag dispenser,

[0067] - dehydration of the composition, by passing it through a dehydrator or oven, generally at a temperature of 50 to 100°C, preferably from 55 to 85°C, for example from 60 to 70°C, for a period of 1 to 24 hours, preferably from 5 to 15 hours, especially from 9 to 12 hours.

[0068] At the end of this dehydration step, an aerated product is obtained with a water activity value (Aw) of less than 0.7, preferably less than 0.5, as measured according to ISO 29621 using an Awmeter such as the LabTouch-aw device marketed by NOVASINA.

[0069] This solid cosmetic product preferably has the appearance of a meringue. For the purposes of the present invention, "solid product" means a product with a three-dimensional structure that is dimensionally stable at 25°C and that can retain its external shape even without being packaged in a container. Furthermore, "cosmetic product" means a product suitable for application to the skin and / or hair without causing irritation, redness, or other unpleasant sensations unacceptable to the user.

[0070] The dimensions of this solid product can vary depending on its use; it can thus have a diameter of 1 to 10 cm, for example from 2 to 6 cm, and a mass ranging from 0.3 to 10 g, for example from 0.5 to 5 g. Use

[0071] The composition according to the invention is intended for the manufacture of a cosmetic product in aerated form, preferably in the form of a meringue, which is generally a rinsed product, in particular a face and / or body cleansing product, a shampoo or a conditioner.

[0072] This product can be applied topically to any part of the body, including the face, hands, hair and scalp, for the purpose of washing the skin and / or to condition the hair, that is to say to improve its suppleness, combability and / or shine and / or to smooth it and / or to reduce its static electricity. FIGURES

[0073] [Fig.1] illustrates meringues obtained from the composition according to the invention.

[0074] [Fig.2] illustrates meringues obtained from comparative compositions containing no oligomer or cationic polymer. EXAMPLES

[0075] The invention will be better understood in the light of the following examples, which are given purely for illustrative purposes and are not intended to limit the scope of the invention, as defined by the attached claims.

[0076] Example 1: Preparation of a skin cleansing composition according to the invention

[0077] The following composition was prepared from the constituents indicated below, used in the following proportions (constituents in capital letters are designated by their INCI names):

[0078] [Tables] Constituent % by weight Cationic oligomer: HYDROLYZED VEGETABLE PROTEIN 0.7% Anionic surfactants 13.0% Crystalline polyol: SORBITOL 49.0% Thickener 0.3% Perfume 1.0% Buffers 1.0% Pigments 0.1% Water 34.9%

[0079] To do this, the water and pigments were mixed at room temperature in a mixer equipped with a whisk. The mixture was then heated to 50°C before the addition of the cationic oligomer, thickener, and buffers. The mixture was then heated to 70°C. The surfactants and sorbitol were then introduced, followed, after cooling to 55°C, by the fragrances. The whisk speed was gradually increased during the preparation of the composition. A dense, creamy foam with a density of 0.15 to 0.2 g / cm³ was obtained. This was packaged in a piping bag then single doses of product were formed on trays which were then placed in a food dehydrator at 50-80°C for 5-24h.

[0080] This resulted in very airy meringues such as those illustrated in [Fig.1], which had a water activity value of 0.275, ensuring a low risk of microbial contamination.

[0081] These meringues melted very quickly under water without friction and without leaving any residue and were suitable for use in washing the body and face.

[0082] Additional meringues were further prepared from compositions A to C obtained by varying the nature and / or proportions of certain constituents of the above formula, as shown in Table 2 below:

[0083] [Tables2] ABC Constituent: Cationic oligomer, Hydrolyzed Vegetable Protein (1%), Hydrolyzed Vegetable Protein (1%), Polyquaternium-37 (1%), Anionic surfactants 3%, Crystalline polyol, Sucrose (49%), Sorbitol (49%), Thickener 0.5%, Cationic oligomer, Fragrance 1.0%, Buffers 1.5%, Pigments 0.1%, Water 43.9%

[0084] These meringues had an appearance and dissolving properties similar to those above.

[0085] Example 2: Preparation of comparative compositions

[0086] Identical aerated compositions to Composition B of Example 1 were prepared, except that the hydrolyzed vegetable protein and buffers were omitted, and the xanthan gum was optionally replaced by iota-carrageenan, kappa-carrageenan, or an alginate. These comparative compositions thus contained a thickening polysaccharide but lacked pea protein hydrolysate, i.e., a source of cationic oligomer.

[0087] The meringues formed from these compositions had the following characteristics:

[0088] [Tables3] Thickener Observations Xanthan Gum Unstructured and sticky texture after one dehydration cycle. Collapsed appearance after a second dehydration cycle. Kappa-carrageenan Meringues with craters. Kappa-carrageenan Flattened meringues with craters. Alginate Texture too soft after one dehydration cycle (100°C at 69°C). Collapsed appearance after a second dehydration cycle.

[0089] Meringues prepared with kappa-carrageenan are illustrated in [Fig.2].

[0090] This test thus demonstrates that the presence of an oligomer or cationic polymer is necessary to obtain meringues with a homogeneous and airy appearance.

[0091] Example 3: Preparation of a shampoo according to the invention

[0092] Meringues were prepared in a manner similar to the process described in Example 1, from the composition below (the constituents in capital letters are designated by their INCI names):

[0093] [Tables4] Constituent % by weight Cationic oligomer and thickener: HYDROXYPROPYL GUAR HYDROXYPROPYL TRIMONIUM CHLORIDE 0.5-1.0% Anionic surfactants 15.0-20.0% Crystalline polyol: SORBITOL 40.0-45.0% Fragrance 1.0% Pigments 0.1% Water q.s.

[0094] The meringues obtained had a homogeneous appearance that remained stable over time and melted quickly under water to produce a creamy foam. They are well suited for use in washing hair.< / e>

Claims

Demands

1. Aerated solid cosmetic product, in particular of the meringue type, obtained by dehydration of a foamed cosmetic composition comprising: - at least one crystalline polyol selected from sugar monomers and dimers, possibly hydrogenated, - at least one surfactant selected from anionic and / or amphoteric surfactants, - water, - at least one gas, so that the composition has a density less than or equal to 0.7 g / cm3, the composition containing at least one cationic oligomer or polymer.

2. Product according to claim 1, characterized in that the anionic surfactants are selected from: - acyl isethionate salts, - N-acylated amino acid salts, - carboxylic acid salts, - alkyl phosphate salts and phosphoric acid esters, - and mixtures thereof, preferably from acyl isethionate salts, N-acylated amino acid salts and mixtures thereof.

3. Product according to claim 1 or 2, characterized in that the surfactant represents from 2 to 20% and preferably from 3 to 17% of the total weight of the composition.

4. Product according to any one of claims 1 to 3, characterized in that the weight ratio between the surfactant and the water contained in the composition is between 0.05 and 0.45, more preferably between 0.25 and 0.

45.

5. Product according to any one of claims 1 to 4, characterized in that water represents 30 to 50% by weight and preferably 35 to 45% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

6. Produced according to any one of claims 1 to 5, characterized in that the crystalline polyol is selected from glucose, sucrose, sorbitol, mannitol, xylitol, lactitol, erythritol, isomalt and maltitol, more preferably from sorbitol and sucrose.

7. Product according to any one of claims 1 to 6, characterized in that the crystalline polyol represents at least 20% by weight, preferably 30 to 55% by weight, more preferably 40 to 50% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

8. A product according to any one of claims 1 to 7, characterized in that the weight ratio between the surfactant and the crystalline polyol is between 0.05 and 0.6 and more preferably between 0.2 and 0.5

9. Product according to any one of claims 1 to 8, characterized in that the weight ratio between the crystalline polyol and water is between 0.5 and 2.0 and preferably between 0.8 and 1.6 and, better, between 0.9 and 1.

5.

10. Produced according to any one of claims 1 to 9, characterized in that the cationic oligomer comprises at least one cationic peptide, advantageously derived from the hydrolysis of pea proteins.

11. A product according to any one of claims 1 to 9, characterized in that the cationic polymer is selected from: polyaminoamides; cationic polysaccharides, in particular cationic celluloses such as Polyquaternium-10, cationic guar gums such as hydroxypropyltrimonium guar chloride, cationic inulin such as hydroxypropyltrimonium inulin chloride; cationic alkylpolyglycosides; homopolymers or copolymers of dialkyldiallylammonium halides, in particular dialkyldiallylamine and dialkyldiallylammonium copolymers, Polyquatemium-6 and Polyquatemium-7; crosslinked polymers of 2-methacryloyloxyethyl trialkyl ammonium salts, such as 2-methacryloyloxyethyl trimethyl ammonium halides, in particular Polyquatemium-37; and their mixtures, preferably the cationic polymer is chosen from among the cationic polysaccharides.

12. Product according to any one of claims 1 to 11, characterized in that the gas is selected from air, nitrogen, oxygen and carbon dioxide, as well as mixtures thereof, preferably the gas is air.

13. Use of a composition as defined in any one of claims 1 to 12 for the manufacture of an aerated solid cosmetic product, in particular of the meringue type. 16

14. A method for manufacturing aerated solid cosmetic products, in particular of the meringue type, comprising the dehydration of an aerated composition as defined in any one of claims 1 to 12.

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