Composition comprising at least one glycolipid, at least one ascorbic acid analogue and at least two polyols, and use and process implementing the composition

Abstract

Composition comprising at least one glycolipid, at least one ascorbic acid analogue and at least two polyols, and use and method implementing the composition. The present invention relates to a composition, in particular for the care of keratinous materials, comprising at least one glycolipid selected from rhamnolipids, sophorolipids and mixtures thereof, at least one ascorbic acid analogue, and at least two polyols having from 3 to 16 carbon atoms.

Description

Title of the invention: Composition comprising at least one glycolipid, at least one ascorbic acid analogue and at least two polyols, and use and method employing the composition Technical field of the invention

[0001] The present invention relates to the field of cosmetic products, in particular intended for reducing the appearance of skin blackheads and / or preventing skin blackheads.

[0002] More particularly, the present invention aims to provide a composition comprising at least one glycolipid selected from rhamnolipids, sophorolipids and mixtures thereof, at least one analogue of ascorbic acid, and at least two polyols having from 3 to 16 carbon atoms.

[0003] The present invention also relates to the use of a composition as described above to reduce and / or inhibit and / or prevent the appearance of blackheads on keratinous materials such as skin.

[0004] It also relates to a cosmetic process for the care of keratinous materials, such as skin, in particular to reduce and / or inhibit and / or prevent the appearance of blackheads, comprising at least one step of applying to said keratinous materials a composition such as described above. Context of the invention

[0005] Cosmetic compositions exist to combat the appearance of blackheads or to conceal them, particularly on the face. This type of skin imperfection, which affects all skin types, is indeed most often considered unsightly and therefore undesirable. Given its black or even brown color, it is considered too visible, especially on lightly pigmented skin.

[0006] To date, the origin of the color of the cutaneous black spot has not been fully established.

[0007] It is known, however, that the cutaneous blackhead results from the coe- dogenesis which affects the pilosebaceous units of the sebaceous follicle type, which are distributed mainly on the face.

[0008] Clinically, a cutaneous blackhead is therefore an open comedo (non-inflammatory lesion) characterized by distension of the hair follicle, sebum retention, and excessive cornification of the pilosebaceous canal. Hypercornification would lead to sebum retention and the accumulation of cellular debris.

[0009] A number of solutions for treating skin blackheads have already been proposed.

[0010] Some of these solutions rely more specifically on the treatment of points blackheads with an active ingredient capable of preventing, altering or eliminating blackheads. As an illustration of these active ingredients, one can cite in particular those capable of solubilizing lipids constituting blackheads such as alkyl lactate derivatives, described in US patent 4 540 567, the lipase enzyme, described in US application 2006 / 00511339, or even neutralized fatty acids as described in application EP3 150 187.

[0011] However, a number of these active ingredients have the disadvantage of altering the properties of the composition containing them, in particular the odor and / or color of the composition, over time. Furthermore, these active ingredients are only effective against blackheads that are already visible.

[0012] One of the proposed solutions to overcome these drawbacks is the use of glycolipids in the compositions.

[0013] Indeed, it has been observed that glycolipids, and in particular rhamnolipids, inhibit the formation of blackheads by likely intervening in the oxidation process of L-DOPA (3,4-dihydroxy-L-phenylalanine). As a reminder, L-DOPA is involved in the very complex mechanism of melanogenesis. More precisely, the oxidation of L-DOPA, promoted by the microbial activity present in the comedo, manifests as a color effect probably of the dopachrome type, the latter being a colored intermediate in the melanin biosynthesis pathway. Rhamnolipids appear to alter the formation of the oxidation reaction product in comedones, and therefore inhibit their black or brown coloration.

[0014] Such compounds have already been used in cleaning compositions, described in application WO 2020 / 114793, in particular for cleaning cosmetic residues, undesirable microorganisms or even the body's own excretions such as sebum.

[0015] However, the sensory properties of these compositions still need improvement, in particular the elimination of the formation of lint or residues when these compositions are applied to keratinous materials, such as the skin, of the user (pilling phenomenon).

[0016] In addition, there is also a need for such serum-based compositions to be fluid.

[0017] Consequently, it remains very difficult to implement glycolipids in cosmetic compositions, while maintaining satisfactory sensory properties, in particular a suitable viscosity and without exhibiting a pilling phenomenon after application of the compositions to the user's skin.

[0018] Thus, the present invention aims to develop new effective cosmetic compositions for the prevention and / or aesthetic treatment of blackheads. skin-related products that have a fluid texture, while also offering good sensory appeal, notably without any pilling after application. Summary of the invention

[0019] The present invention relates to a composition, in particular for the care of keratinous materials, comprising: - at least one glycolipid selected from rhamnolipids, sophorolipids and mixtures thereof, - at least one ascorbic acid analogue, and - at least two polyols having from 3 to 16 carbon atoms.

[0020] The composition according to the invention is preferably cosmetic.

[0021] Preferably, the composition according to the invention is a cosmetic composition, more preferably a cosmetic composition for the care of keratinous materials such as skin.

[0022] The present invention also relates to a method for caring for keratinous materials, such as skin, in particular to reduce and / or inhibit and / or prevent the appearance of blackheads, comprising at least one step of applying to said keratinous materials a composition such as described above.

[0023] The present invention also relates to the use of a composition as described above to reduce and / or inhibit and / or prevent the appearance of blackheads on keratinous materials such as skin.

[0024] As illustrated in the examples below, the Applicant has surprisingly discovered that it is possible to obtain effective and fluid compositions, with good sensoriality, in particular without exhibiting any pilling phenomenon after application of the composition to the user's keratinous materials, such as the skin.

[0025] The invention is not limited to the illustrated examples. The features of the different examples can, in particular, be combined within non-illustrated variants.

[0026] The expression "at least one" means one or more.

[0027] Unless otherwise indicated, the bounds of a range of values ​​are included in that range, in particular in the expressions "between" and "ranging from ... to ...".

[0028] The term "keratinous materials" according to the invention means the skin of the body, face and / or around the eyes, lips, nails, mucous membranes, eyelashes, eyebrows, hair, scalp and / or head hair, or any other cutaneous area of ​​the body. More particularly, the keratinous materials according to the invention are the scalp, hair, and / or skin.

[0029] Preferably, the keratinous materials according to the invention are skin.

[0030] By "skin" we mean the entire skin of the body, and preferably the skin of the face, décolletage, neck, arms and forearms, or even more preferably, the skin of the face.

[0031] By "cosmetic," we mean a composition compatible with the skin, mucous membranes, and hair. The composition according to the invention is non-therapeutic. Detailed description of the invention: Glycolipid

[0032] As mentioned previously, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one glycolipid selected from rhamnolipids, sophorolipids and mixtures thereof.

[0033] In particular, the composition according to the invention may comprise a mixture of at least two, in particular at least three glycolipids.

[0034] If two or more glycolipids are used, they may be identical or different.

[0035] The term "glycolipid" means a compound formed of a lipid to which one or more carbohydrate compounds are attached.

[0036] Preferably, the glycolipid(s) are chosen from among the rhamnolipids.

[0037] Preferably, the composition comprises at least one rhamnolipid. Sophorolipids

[0038] The glycolipid(s) may be sophorolipids, which comprise a sophorose fraction and may be represented by the following general formula (I): in which: - R3 and R4 represent, independently of each other, a hydrogen atom or an acetylated group, - R5 represents a saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon radical, hydroxylated or not, having from 1 to 9 carbon atoms, preferably a methyl, - R6 represents a saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon radical, hydroxylated or not, having from 1 to 19 carbon atoms, provided that the total number of carbon atoms in groups R5 and R6 does not exceed 20 and is preferably from 14 to 18, - R7 represents a hydrogen atom, - R8 represents a hydroxy group OH, or R7 and R8 together form a lactone ring.

[0039] Sophorolipids can be incorporated into the composition according to the invention either in the open-chain free acid form, where R7 represents a hydrogen atom and R8 represents a hydroxy group OH, or in its lactone form, where a lactone ring is formed between R7 and R8 as shown in the following formula (II): in which: - R3, R4, R5 and R6 are as defined above, provided that at least one of R3 and R4 represents an acetylated group.

[0040] Sophorolipids can be produced by yeast cells, for example Torulopsis apicola and Torulopsis bombicola. The fermentation process generally uses sugars and alkanes as substrates.

[0041] Suitable fermentation methods are reviewed in AP Tulloch, JFT Spencer and PAJ Gorin, Can. J Chem (1962) 40 1326 and U. Gobbert, S. Lang and F. Wagner, Biotechnology Letters (1984) 6 (4), 225. The resulting product is a mixture of various open-chain sophorolipids and sophorolipid lactones, which can be used in mixtures, or the required form can be isolated.

[0042] As examples of sophorolipids, one can use the one sold under the name So-pholiances by Givaudan and the one sold under the name BioToLife by BASF. Rhamnolipids:

[0043] The glycolipid(s) may be rhamnolipids.

[0044] Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one rhamnolipid.

[0045] Rhamnolipids are glycolipids produced by various bacterial species. They consist of one rhamnose fragment (mono-rhamnolipid) or two rhamnose fragments (di-rhamnolipid), linked by a glycosidic bond to one, two or three [3-hydroxylated] fatty acid chains linked together by an ester bond.

[0046] Preferably, the rhamnolipids are chosen from among the mono- and di-rhamnolipids corresponding to the following formula (III): O OH n in which: - m denotes an integer equal to 2, 1 or 0, - n denotes an integer equal to 1 or 0, and - Ri and R2, independently of each other, represent hydrocarbon radicals, identical or different, having from 2 to 24 carbon atoms, preferably from 5 to 13 carbon atoms, branched or unbranched, substituted or unsubstituted, in particular hydroxy-substituted, saturated or unsaturated, preferably, a mono-, di- or tri-unsaturated alkyl radical, as well as their salts, their solvates, and their optical isomers.

[0047] Thus, when n is equal to zero, formula (III) protects mono-rhamnolipids and when n is equal to 1, it protects di-rhamnolipids.

[0048] Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one di-rhamnolipid.

[0049] Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one di-rhamnolipid of formula (III) in which: - m denotes an integer equal to 2, 1 or 0, - n denotes an integer equal to 1, and - Ri and R2, independently of each other, represent hydrocarbon radicals, identical or different, having from 2 to 24 carbon atoms, preferably from 5 to 13 carbon atoms, branched or unbranched, substituted or unsubstituted, in particular hydroxy-substituted, saturated or unsaturated, preferably, a mono-, di- or tri-unsaturated alkyl radical, as well as their salts, their solvates, and their optical isomers.

[0050] The glycosidic bond between the two rhamnose fragments can be in confi- alpha or beta configuration, and is preferably in alpha configuration.

[0051] Within the scope of the invention, : - the salts of di-rhamnolipids of formula (III) are more particularly their carboxylate salts with an organic or inorganic cation, and especially with a cation chosen from sodium, potassium, calcium and ammonium, - the solvated forms of di-rhamnolipids of formula (III) are more particularly those solvated with one or more molecules of water or organic solvents, for example a hydrate or a solvated linear or branched alcohol such as ethanol or isopropanol; the optically active carbon atoms of the fatty acids are preferably in the form of R enantiomers, and - the term radical “alkyl” designates a saturated aliphatic group, linear or branched; for example a Ci-C2o-alkyl group having a hydrocarbon chain of 1 to 20 carbon atoms, linear or branched, more particularly a methyl, ethyl, propyl, isopropyl, butyl, isobutyl, tert-butyl, pentyl, hexyl, heptyl, octyl, nonyl, decyl, undecyl, dodecyl, tridecyl, tetradecyl, pentadecyl, hexadecyl, hept-tadecyl, octadecyl, nonadecyl, eicosyl.

[0052] Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one di-rhamnolipid of formula (III) in which: - m denotes an integer equal to 2, 1 or 0; - n denotes an integer equal to 1; and - Ri and R2, identical or different, are chosen from the radicals pentenyl, hexenyl, heptenyl, octenyl, nonenyl, decenyl, undecenyl, dodecenyl, tri-decenyl and the radicals of formula -(CH2)OCH3 with o denoting an integer from 1 to 23, in particular from 3 to 15, and more particularly from 4 to 12.

[0053] According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one di-rhamnolipid of formula (III) in which m is equal to 1.

[0054] According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the composition according to the invention comprises a mixture of at least two, preferably at least three di-rhamnolipids of general formula (III) in which m is preferably equal to 1.

[0055] According to another embodiment of the invention, the composition according to the invention comprises a mixture comprising at least one mono-rhamnolipid.

[0056] More preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one di-rhamnolipid of the following formula (IV): O OH n in which: - m denotes an integer equal to 2, 1 or 0, preferably m is equal to 1, - n is equal to 1, - Ri is a radical -(CH2)P-CH3, with p being an integer ranging from 1 to 23, preferably from 4 to 12, - R2 is a radical -(CH2)q-CH3, with q being an integer ranging from 1 to 23, preferably from 4 to 12, as well as their salts, their solvates, and their optical isomers.

[0057] By way of illustration and not limitation of di-rhamnolipides of formula (IV) which may be suitable for the invention, we may mention in particular the compounds of formula Di-RL-CXCY, as defined in Table 1 below.

[0058] The formula Di-RL-CXCY is an alternative writing to represent a di-rhamnolipid (Di-RL) functionalized by two radicals Ri and R2 respectively represented by the symbols CX and CY, the integers X and Y being respectively equal to p+4 and q+4.

[0059] [Tables 1] Compounds Di-RL'CXCY P « 1 d^RL-CO 4 4 2 4 6 3 6 4 4 dsRl tlc'CP 0 6 5 >5 S § ®L-C12Clu S g 7 ÆL-C13C12 SS 8 «.--C13C14 JS w 9 &RL-C14CQ 10 s 10 dàlÆMCU 10 10 Ü ïd 12 12 «L-C16C14 12 10 13 dsRL-C16C16 12 12.

[0060] According to a preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one di-rhamnolipid of formula (IV), in which p and q are identical and equal to 6 and n and m are equal to 1, also called di-RL-ClOCIO, or one of its salts, solvated and optically isomers.

[0061] Preferably, the di-rhamnolipid of formula (IV) in which p and q are identical and equal to 6 and n and m are equal to 1, is present in the composition according to the invention at a rate of at least 50% by weight and preferably from 51% to 85% by weight relative to the total weight of rhamnolipids.

[0062] According to another preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one di-rhamnolipid of formula (IV), in which n and m are equal to 1, p is equal to 6, q is equal to 8, or one of its salts, solvated and optical isomers.

[0063] According to another preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one di-rhamnolipid of formula (III) in which n and m are equal to 1, Ri represents a radical -(CH2)OCH3 with o being an integer ranging from 4 to 12 and R2 is selected from the pentenyl, hexenyl, heptenyl, octenyl, nonenyl, decenyl, undecenyl, dodecenyl, tridecenyl radicals, preferably, Ri is a radical -(CH2)6 CH3 and R2 a nonenyl radical, or one of its salts, solvated and optically isomers.

[0064] According to another preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises a mixture of at least two, preferably at least three, di-rhamnolipids of formula (III) or formula (IV), as defined above, and more preferably chosen from among: - a di-rhamnolipid of formula (IV), in which p and q are identical and equal to 6 and n and m are equal to 1, - a di-rhamnolipid of formula (IV) in which n and m are equal to 1, p is equal to 6, q is equal to 8, and - a di-rhamnolipid of formula (III) in which n and m are equal to 1, Ri represents a radical -(CH2)OCH3 with o being an integer varying from 4 to 12 and R2 is chosen from the radicals pentenyl, hexenyl, heptenyl, octenyl, nonenyl, decenyl, undecenyl, dodecenyl, tridecenyl, and preferably, Ri is a radical -(CH2)6CH3 and R2 is a nonenyl radical.

[0065] Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises a mixture of at least two, more preferably at least three, di-rhamnolipids of formula (III) or formula (IV) selected from: - at least 50% by weight, and preferably from 51% to 85% by weight, of a di-rhamnolipid of formula (IV) in which p and q are identical and equal to 6 and n and m are equal to 1, relative to the total weight of rhamnolipids, - from 0.5% to 25% by weight, preferably from 5% to 15% by weight, of a di-rhamnolipid of formula (IV) in which p is equal to 6, q is equal to 8 and n and m are equal to 1, relative to the total weight of rhamnolipids, and - from 0.5% to 15% by weight, preferably from 3% to 12% by weight, preferably from 5% to 10% by weight, of a di-rhamnolipid of formula (III) in which n and m are equal to 1, Ri represents a radical -(CH2)6CH3 and R2 represents a nonenyl radical, relative to the total weight in rhamnolipids.

[0066] Rhamnolipids are conventionally prepared by processes known to those skilled in the art from producing bacteria, such as Pseudomonas strains.

[0067] Suitable fermentation methods are reviewed in D. Haferburg, R. Hommel, R. Claus and HP Kleber in Adv Biochem. Ing. / Biotechnol. (1986) 33, 53-90 and by F. Wagner, H. Bock and A. Kretschmar in Fermentation (ed. RM Lafferty) (1981), 181-192, Springer Verlag, Vienna.

[0068] As for rhamnolipids, one can use the one sold under the name of Rheance One by the company Evonik (INCI name: glycolipids).

[0069] The composition according to the invention preferably comprises a content of gly-colipid(s) selected from rhamnolipids, sophorolipids and their mixtures ranging from 0.01% to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.1% to 5% by weight, even better from 0.3% to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0070] The composition according to the invention preferably comprises a rham-nolipid(s) content ranging from 0.01% to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.1% to 5% by weight, even better from 0.3% to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Ascorbic acid analogue

[0071] The composition according to the invention comprises at least one analogue of ascorbic acid.

[0072] The analogue(s) of ascorbic acid or called Vitamin C according to the invention can be chosen from its salts, esters, ethers and sugars.

[0073] Preferably, the ascorbic acid analogue(s) usable in the invention are the sugar esters of ascorbic acid, phosphorylated metal salts of ascorbic acid and mixtures thereof.

[0074] Ascorbic acid sugar esters can be selected from glycosylated, mannosylated, fructosylated, fucosylated, galactosylated N-acetylglucosamine, N-acetylmuramic derivatives of ascorbic acid and mixtures thereof, and more specifically ascorbyl glucoside or 2-O-α-D-glucopyranosyl of L-ascorbic acid, or 6-O-[3-D-galactopyranosyl of L-ascorbic acid. These latter compounds, as well as their preparation processes, are described in particular in documents EP-A-487404, EP-A-425066, and J05213736.

[0075] Phosphorylated metal salts of ascorbic acid can be selected from alkali metal ascorbyl phosphates, alkaline earth metal ascorbyl phosphates and transition metal ascorbyl phosphates, such as magnesium, sodium, potassium, calcium, zinc.

[0076] Preferably, the ascorbic acid analogue(s) are chosen from ascorbyl glucoside, magnesium ascorbyl phosphate, and mixtures thereof.

[0077] More preferably, the analogue of ascorbic acid is ascorbyl glucoside.

[0078] By "ascorbyl glucoside" is meant the condensation product of glucose, in D form, i.e. in the form of glucopyrannose a or [3 or furannose a or [3, or in L form, with ascorbic acid, preferably in L form.

[0079] Ascorbyl glucoside is notably supplied by Hayashibara or Macrocare under the name "Ascorbic acid glucoside" with a 100% active ingredient content. It is actually L-ascorbic acid 2-OaD-glucopyranoside. This isomer is preferred in the context of the present invention.

[0080] More particularly, 2-OaD-Glucosyl-L-ascorbic acid, also known as 2-glucoside ascorbic acid, is a compound which consists of a D-glucose molecule linked to the hydroxyl group at the C-2 position of L-ascorbic acid (vitamin C) by the α-glucosidic bond.

[0081] Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one ascorbic acid analogue selected from ascorbyl glucoside, magnesium ascorbyl phosphate, and mixtures thereof, more preferably comprising ascorbyl glucoside.

[0082] The ascorbic acid analogue(s) may be present in the composition according to the invention in a content ranging from 0.1% to 10% by weight, more preferably from 0.3% to 5% by weight, better from 0.5% to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Polyol

[0083] The composition according to the invention comprises at least two polyols having from 3 to 16 carbon atoms.

[0084] For the purposes of this invention, "polyol" means any organic molecule comprising at least two free hydroxyl groups.

[0085] Preferably, the polyols according to the present invention are present in liquid form at room temperature.

[0086] A polyol suitable for the invention may be an alkyl-type compound, linear, branched or cyclic, saturated or unsaturated, having on the alkyl chain at least two -OH functions, in particular at least three -OH functions and more particularly at least four -OH functions.

[0087] Preferably, the polyols according to the present invention have from 3 to 10 carbon atoms, better from 3 to 8 carbon atoms.

[0088] Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises at least two polyols having from 3 to 10 carbon atoms, better from 3 to 8 carbon atoms.

[0089] Advantageously, the polyols can be selected from pentaerythritol, trimethylpropane, propylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, 1,3-propanediol, caprylyl glycol, butylene glycol, isoprene glycol, pentylene glycol, hexylene glycol, glycerol, and mixtures thereof.

[0090] Preferably, the polyols are selected from caprylyl glycol, 1,3-propanediol, butylene glycol, propylene glycol, pentylene glycol, hexylene glycol, glycerol, and mixtures thereof.

[0091] More preferably, the polyols are chosen from caprylyl glycol, butylene glycol, propylene glycol, glycerol, and mixtures thereof.

[0092] According to a preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises at least two polyols selected from caprylyl glycol, 1,3-propanediol, butylene glycol, propylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, pentylene glycol, hexylene glycol, glycerol, and mixtures thereof, more preferably from caprylyl glycol, butylene glycol, propylene glycol, glycerol, and mixtures thereof.

[0093] Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises a mixture of caprylyl glycol, butylene glycol, propylene glycol, and glycerol.

[0094] Polyols having from 3 to 16 carbon atoms may be present in the composition according to the invention in a content ranging from 1% to 30% by weight, preferably from 3% to 20% by weight, more preferably from 5% to 17% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. modified or unmodified carboxyvinyl polymer

[0095] The composition according to the invention may comprise at least one carboxyvinyl polymer, modified or unmodified.

[0096] Preferably, the carboxyvinyl polymer(s), modified or not, are chosen from crosslinked (meth)acrylic acid homopolymers.

[0097] For the purposes of this application, “(meth)acrylic” means acrylic or methacrylic.

[0098] For example, we can cite those sold by Lubrizol under the names Carbopol, 910, 934, 940, 941, 934 P, 980, 981, 2984, 5984, Carbopol Ultrez 10 Polymer, or by 3V-Sigma under the names Synthalen K, Synthalen L, or Synthalen M.

[0099] Among the modified or unmodified carboxyvinyl polymers, Carbopol 980 (CTFA name: carbomer) marketed by the Lubrizol company can be mentioned in particular.

[0100] Preferably, the composition comprises at least one crosslinked (meth)acrylic acid homopolymer, in particular a carbomer.

[0101] The carboxyvinyl polymer(s), modified or not, may be present in the composition according to the invention in a content ranging from 0.1% to 5% by weight, more preferably from 0.3% to 3% by weight, better from 0.5% to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Polysaccharide polymer

[0102] The composition according to the invention may comprise at least one polysaccharide polymer.

[0103] Preferably, the polysaccharide polymer(s) are present in the composition according to the invention in a content ranging from 0.01% to 10% by weight, more preferably from 0.1% to 5% by weight, better from 0.3% to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Non-starch heteropolysaccharides:

[0104] Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one polysaccharide polymer selected from non-starch heteropolysaccharides.

[0105] Preferably, the polysaccharide polymer(s) chosen from non-starchy heteropolysaccharides are present in the composition according to the invention in a content ranging from 0.01% to 5% by weight, more preferably from 0.1% to 3% by weight, even more preferably from 0.1% to 1.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0106] The term “heteropolysaccharide” means a polysaccharide formed from different monosaccharides.

[0107] The term “homopolysaccharide” means a polysaccharide formed from a single mono- saccharide.

[0108] Non-starch heteropolysaccharides can be selected from heteropolysaccharides produced by microorganisms.

[0109] Heteropolysaccharides produced by microorganisms can be selected from xanthan gum, succinoglycan, gellan gums, and mixtures thereof.

[0110] Xanthan gums have a molecular weight between 1,000,000 and 50,000,000 and a viscosity between 0.6 and 1.65 Pa.s for an aqueous composition containing 1% xanthan gum (measured at 25 °C using a Brookfield viscometer, type LVT at 60 revolutions per minute).

[0111] Xanthan gums are marketed for example under the names Rhodicare by the company Rhodia Chimie, under the name Satiaxane™ by the company Cargill Texturizing Solutions (for the food, cosmetic and pharmaceutical industries), under the name Novaxan™ by the company ADM, and under the names Kelzan® and Keltrol® by the company CP-Kelco.

[0112] Succinoglycans are marketed, for example, under the name Rheozan, by the company Rhodia.

[0113] Gellan gum is marketed for example under the name Kelcogel CG LA by the company CP Kelco.

[0114] Non-starch heteropolysaccharides can also be selected from heteropolysaccharides isolated from algae.

[0115] Heteropolysaccharides isolated from algae can be selected from alginate-based compounds.

[0116] For the purposes of this invention, "alginate-based compound" means alginic acid, alginic acid derivatives and alginic acid salts (alginates) or said derivatives.

[0117] In particular, alginate-based compounds with an average molecular mass by weight ranging from 10,000 to 1,000,000, preferably from 15,000 to 500,000, and better from 20,000 to 250,000.

[0118] According to a preferred embodiment, the alginate-based compound is alginic acid and / or one of its salts.

[0119] Preferably, the alginate-based compound is an alginate salt, more preferably sodium alginate.

[0120] Alginate-based compounds suitable for the invention may be sold under the names Kelcosol, Satialgine™, Cecalgum™ or Algogel™ by Cargill Products, under the name Protanal™ by FMC Biopolymer, under the name Grindsted® Alginate by Danisco, under the name Kimica Algin by Kimica, and under the names Manucol® and Manugel® by the ISP company.

[0121] Non-starch heteropolysaccharides can be selected from among the heteropolysaccharides of higher plants, and in particular heterogeneous heteropolysaccharides and their derivatives.

[0122] In particular, examples include gum arabic, galactomannans such as guar gum and its derivatives, fenugreek, tara gum, and locust bean gum, glucomannans (konjac gum), LM and HM pectins and their derivatives, and mixtures thereof.

[0123] Non-ionic unmodified guar gums are sold for example under the name Vidogum GH, Vidogum G and Vidocrem by the company Unipektin and under the name Jaguar by the company Rhodia, under the name Meypro® Guar by the company Danisco, under the name Viscogum™ by the company Cargill, and under the name Supercol® guar gum by the company Aqualon.

[0124] Hydrolyzed non-ionic guar gums are, for example, sold under the name Meyprodor® by the company Danisco.

[0125] Non-ionic guar gums possibly modified by hydroxyalkyl groups are for example sold under the trade names Jaguar HP 60, Jaguar HP 105 and Jaguar HP 120 (hydroxypropyl guar), by the company Rhodia, or under the name N-Hance® HP (hydroxypropyl guar) by the company Aqualon.

[0126] Guar gums modified by cationic groups are for example sold under the trade names Jaguar EXCEL, Jaguar C13 S, Jaguar C 15, Jaguar C 17 and Jaguar C162 (Guar Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride) by the company Rhodia, under the name Amilan® Guar (Guar Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride) by the company Degussa, and under the name N-Hance® 3000 (Guar Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride) by the company Aqualon.

[0127] Anionic guar gums can be selected from carboxymethylated guar derivatives (carboxymethyl guar or carboxymethyl hydroxypropyl guar).

[0128] Unmodified carob gum is notably sold under the name Viscogum™ by Cargill, under the name Vidogum L by Unipektin, under the name Grinsted® LBG by Danisco.

[0129] Chemically modified carob gums can be selected from cationic carobs, for example sold under the name Catinal CLB (carob Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride) by the company Toho.

[0130] Tara gum is for example sold under the name Vidogum SP by the company Unipektin.

[0131] Konjac gum is for example sold under the name Propol® and Rheolex® by the company Shimizu.

[0132] Pectins are notably marketed by the company Cargill under the name Unipectin™, by CP-Kelco under the name Genu, by Danisco under the name Grinsted Pectin.

[0133] Preferably, the polysaccharide polymer(s) are chosen from non-starch heteropoly-saccharides, more preferably from heteropoly-saccharides produced by microorganisms, and xanthan gum is better.

[0134] Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one polysaccharide polymer selected from non-starch heteropolysaccharides, more preferably comprising xanthan gum.

[0135] Polysaccharide polymer distinct from non-starch heteropolysaccharides:

[0136] Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one polysaccharide polymer distinct from non-starch heteropolysaccharides.

[0137] Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises the polysaccharide polymer(s) distinct from non-starchy heteropolysaccharides in a content ranging from 0.05% to 5% by weight, more preferably from 0.2% to 3% by weight, even more preferably from 0.3% to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0138] Such a polymer can in particular be chosen from among non-starch homopolysaccharides.

[0139] In particular, non-starch homopolysaccharides may be selected from homopolysaccharides produced by microorganisms or fungi, in particular selected from pullulan, dextran and dextran sulfate, scleroglucan gum, and mixtures thereof.

[0140] Pullulan is for example produced under the reference Pullulan PF 20 by the Hayashibara group in Japan.

[0141] Dextran is for example sold under the name Dextran or Dextran T by Pharmacosmos, under the name Dextran 40 powder or Dextran 70 powder by Meito Sangyo Co. Dextran sulfate is notably marketed by PK Chemical A / S under the name Dextran sulfate.

[0142] Scleroglucan is for example sold under the name Amigel by the Alban Muller Company, or under the name Actigum™ CS by the Cargill Company.

[0143] Non-starch homopolysaccharides can also be selected from homopolysaccharides isolated from algae, in particular selected from galactans, furcellarane, and mixtures thereof.

[0144] The galactan may be chosen from agar or carrageenans.

[0145] Carrageenans are marketed in particular by the company Seppic under the name Solagum®, by the company Gelymar under the names Carragel®, Carralact®, and Carrasol®, by the company Cargill, under the names Satiagel™ and Satiagum™, and by the company CP-Kelco under the names Genulacta®, Genugel® and Genuvisco®.

[0146] Agar is for example produced by the B&V Agar Producers group, under the name Gold Agar, Agarite and Grand Agar by the company Hispanagar, and under the names Agar-Agar, QSA (Quick Soluble Agar), and Puragar by the company Setexam.

[0147] Furcellarane is for example produced by the company Est-Agar.

[0148] Non-starchy homopolysaccharides can also be selected from the homopolysaccharides of higher plants, in particular homopolysaccharides and their derivatives.

[0149] These polymers can in particular be chosen from celluloses and derivatives or fructans.

[0150] As examples of celluloses, one can mention in particular quaternized alkylhydroxyethylcelluloses with C8-C30 fatty chains, such as the products Quatrisoft LM 200, Quatrisoft LM-X 529-18-A, Quatrisoft LM-X 529-18B (alkyl in Ci2) and Quatrisoft LM-X 529-8 (alkyl in C[8]) marketed by the company Amerchol and the products Crodacel QM, Crodacel QL (alkyl in Ci2) and Crodacel QS (alkyl in Ci8) marketed by the company Croda.

[0151] Among cellulose derivatives, we can also mention celluloses modified by groups comprising at least one fatty chain, such as hydroxyethyl-celluloses modified by groups comprising at least one fatty chain such as alkyl groups, in particular in C8-C22, arylalkyl, alkylaryl, such as Natrosol Plus Grade 330 CS (alkyls in Ci6) sold by the Aqualon company, and celluloses modified by polyalkylene glycol alkyl phenol ether groups, such as the product Amercell Polymer HM-1500 (polyethylene glycol (15) nonyl phenol ether) sold by the Amerchol company.

[0152] Cellulose and derivatives may also be sold under the names Avicel® (microcrystalline cellulose, MCC) by FMC Biopolymers, under the name Cekol (carboxymethylcellulose) by Noviant (CP-Kelco), under the name Akucell AF (sodium carboxymethylcellulose) by Akzo Nobel, under the names Methocel™ (cellulose ethers) and Ethocel™ (ethylcellulose) by Dow, under the names Aqualon® (carboxymethylcellulose and sodium carboxymethylcellulose), Benecel® (methylcellulose), Blanose™ (carboxymethylcellulose), Culminai® (methylcellulose, hydroxypropyl methylcellulose), Klucel® (hydroxypropylcellulose), Polysurf® (cetyl hydroxyethylcellulose) and Natrosol® CS (hydroxyethylcellulose) by Hercules Aqualon.

[0153] Fructosan can be selected from rinulin and its derivatives (in particular dicarboxy and carboxymethyl inulins). Inulin is, for example, sold under the name Beneo™ inulin by Orafti, and under the name Frutafit® by Sensus.

[0154] Among the non-starch homopolysaccharides, we can also mention chitin (Poly N-acetyl-D-glucosamine, [3( 1,4)-2-Acetamido-2-deoxy-D-glucose).

[0155] According to a particular embodiment, the polysaccharide polymer distinct from non-starch heteropolysaccharides can be chosen from among the starch polysaccharides.

[0156] Native starches, modified starches and particulate starches may be cited in particular as representative of this category.

[0157] Native starches are for example sold under the names C*Amilogel™, Cargill Gel™, C* Gel™, Cargill Gum™, DryGel™, C*Pharm Gel™ by Cargill, under the name Corn Starch by Roquette, and under the name Tapioca Pure by National Starch.

[0158] Modified starches are for example sold under the names C*Tex-Instant (pre-gelatinized adipate), C*StabiTex-Instant (pre-gelatinized phosphate), C*PolarTex-Instant (pre-gelatinized hydroxypropyl), C*Set (acid hydrolysis, oxidation), C*size (oxidation), C*BatterCrisp (oxidation), C*DrySet (dextrinization), C*Tex™ (acetylated distarch adipate), C*PolarTex™ (hydroxypropyl distarch phosphate), C*StabiTex™ (distarch phosphate, acetylated distarch phosphate) by the Cargill company. They can also be chosen from distarch phosphates or compounds rich in distarch phosphate, such as the product offered under the references Prejel VA-70-T AGGL (gelatinized hydroxypropyl cassava distarch phosphate) or Prejel TK1 (gelatinized cassava distarch phosphate) or Prejel 200 (gelatinized acetylated cassava distarch phosphate) by Avebe Company or Structure Zea from National Starch (gelatinized maize distarch phosphate).

[0159] Examples of oxidized starches include those marketed under the name C*size by the company Cargill.

[0160] The following may be cited in particular as examples of particulate starches:

[0161] - starches grafted with an acrylic polymer (homopolymer or copolymer) and particularly by sodium polyacrylate, for example those marketed under the name Sanfresh ST-100MC by the company Sanyo Chemical Industries or Ma-kimousse 25, Makimousse 12 by the company Daito Kasei (INCI name Sodium polyacrylate Starch);

[0162] - hydrolyzed starches grafted with an acrylic polymer (homopolymer or co polymer) and in particular the acryloacrylamide / sodium acrylate copolymer, such as those marketed under the names Water Lock A-240, A-180, B-204, D-223, A-100, C-200, D-223, by the company Grain Processing (INCI name: Starch / acrylamide / sodium acrylate copolymer);

[0163] - polymers based on starch, gum and cellulosic derivatives, such as that containing starch and sodium carboxymethylcellulose, such as the one marketed under the name Lysorb 220 by the company Lysac.

[0164] Preferably, the polysaccharide polymer(s) distinct from non-starchy heteropolysaccharides are chosen from non-starchy homopolysaccharides, more preferably from homopolysaccharides produced by microorganisms or fungi, and best is scleroglucan gum.

[0165] Preferably, the polysaccharide polymer(s) are chosen from non-starch polysaccharides, more preferably from non-starch heteropolysaccharides, non-starch homopolysaccharides and mixtures thereof, even more preferably from xanthan gum, scleroglucan gum, and mixtures thereof.

[0166] Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one polysaccharide polymer selected from non-starch heteropolysaccharides, and at least one polysaccharide polymer distinct from non-starch heteropolysaccharides.

[0167] Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises xanthan gum and scleroglucan gum.

[0168] One example is the mixture of xanthan gum and scleroglucan gum sold under the name Actigum™ VSX 20 by the Cargill company. Charges

[0169] The composition according to the invention may comprise at least one filler.

[0170] Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one non-siliconized filler.

[0171] For the purposes of this invention, "charges" means colorless or white solid particles of any shape, of mineral or organic, natural or synthetic nature, which are insoluble and dispersed in the medium of the composition.

[0172] The term "non-silicon charge" means a charge that does not include a silicon atom.

[0173] Examples of such fillers include talc, mica, kaolin, C8-C22 N-acylated amino acid particles, poly-[3-alanine and polyethylene powders, tetrafluoroethylene polymer powders (Teflon®), lauroyl-lysine, modified or unmodified starches, boron nitride, hollow polymeric microspheres such as polyvinylidene chloride / acrylonitrile like Expacel® (Nobel Industrie), acrylic acid copolymers, precipitated calcium carbonate, magnesium carbonate and hydroxycarbonate, hydroxyapatite, barium sulfate, polyurethane powders, composite fillers, glass or ceramic microcapsules, and mixtures thereof.

[0174] Synthetic or natural micronized waxes are also suitable, particularly natural ones. Carnauba wax microbeads are a notable example. sold under the name Microcare 350® by Micro Powders or under the name Sunhancer Eco SPF Booster by Lubrizol. Such micronized additional waxes notably improve the properties of the composition when applied to the skin.

[0175] Preferably, the filler is chosen from among modified or unmodified starches.

[0176] Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one filler chosen from among modified or unmodified starches.

[0177] The starch molecules suitable as fillers according to the present invention may originate from any plant source of starch, in particular cereals, vegetables and tubers. More specifically, they may be starches from maize, rice, rice hulls, cassava, barley, potato, wheat, sorghum, peas, oats, tapioca.

[0178] Examples include Remy DR I® rice starch marketed by Remy; B® corn starch from Roquette; sodium-neutralized 2-chloroethyl aminodipropionic acid modified potato starch marketed under the name Structure Solanace® by National Starch; native tapioca starch powder marketed under the name Tapioca pure® by National Starch or under the name Organic Tapioca Natural by Agrana Starke; rice hull powder marketed under the name Ricesilk by Soliance.

[0179] The modified starch can be a (CrC4) carboxyalkyl starch. (CrC4) carboxyalkyl starches are preferably carboxymethyl starches. The carboxyalkyl starches usable according to the present invention are preferably sodium salts of carboxymethyl starch (INCI name: Sodium Caroxymethyl Starch), in particular a sodium salt of carboxymethyl starch, such as those sold under the name Primojel® by DMV International or Glycolys® and Glycolys® LV by Roquette.

[0180] Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises native tapioca starch powder, rice hull powder, or mixtures thereof, and more preferably native tapioca starch powder.

[0181] The filler(s), preferably non-siliconized, may be present in the composition according to the invention in a content ranging from 0.1% to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.2% to 7% by weight, more preferably from 0.5% to 5% by weight, even more preferably from 0.7% to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Fatty acid and fatty alcohol

[0182] The composition according to the invention may include at least one liquid linear or branched fatty acid or alcohol comprising from 6 to 18 carbon atoms.

[0183] Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one liquid linear or branched fatty acid or alcohol comprising 8 to 18 carbon atoms, better 12 to 18 carbon atoms, in particular 18 carbon atoms.

[0184] By “liquid fatty acid” is meant a liquid fatty acid at ordinary temperature (25 °C) and atmospheric pressure (760 mm Hg, i.e. 1,013.105 Pa).

[0185] The fatty acids of the invention may be saturated or unsaturated.

[0186] In particular, liquid fatty acids comprising 6 to 18 carbon atoms They can be chosen from caprylic acid, isostearic acid, oleic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid, hexanoic acid and mixtures thereof.

[0187] Fatty acids can be mixtures, which means that in a commercial product several species, in particular of different chain lengths, can coexist in the form of a mixture.

[0188] In particular, liquid fatty acids comprising 6 to 18 carbon atoms are linear.

[0189] The "liquid fatty alcohols" are liquid at room temperature (25 °C) and atmospheric pressure, and insoluble in water (i.e., have a solubility in water of less than 1% by weight and preferably less than 0.5% by weight), and are soluble, under the same conditions of temperature and pressure, in at least one organic solvent (for example ethanol, chloroform, benzene or petroleum jelly) at least 1% by weight.

[0190] The fatty alcohols of the invention can be saturated or unsaturated.

[0191] In particular, liquid fatty alcohols comprising 6 to 18 carbon atoms may be selected from oleic alcohol, linoleic alcohol, linolenic alcohol, isocetyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, and mixtures thereof.

[0192] Fatty alcohols can be mixtures, which means that in a commercial product several species, in particular of different chain lengths, can coexist in the form of a mixture.

[0193] In particular, liquid fatty alcohols comprising 6 to 18 carbon atoms are linear.

[0194] Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one liquid linear or branched fatty acid or alcohol comprising 6 to 18 carbon atoms selected from oleic acid, oleic alcohol, linoleic acid, linoleic alcohol, isostearic acid, isostearyl alcohol and mixtures thereof, more preferably comprising oleic alcohol.

[0195] The liquid linear or branched fatty acid(s) or alcohol(s) comprising 6 to 18 carbon atoms may be present in the composition according to the invention in a content ranging from 0.1% to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.2% to 10% by weight, even better from 0.5% to 7% by weight, more preferably from 0.8% to 5% by weight, even more preferentially from 1% to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of said composition.

[0196] Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises oleic alcohol in a content ranging from 0.1% to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.2% to 10% by weight, even better from 0.5% to 7% by weight, more preferably from 0.8% to 5% by weight, even more preferably from 1% to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of said composition. Solvent

[0197] The composition according to the invention may include water.

[0198] The composition according to the invention may comprise from 40% to 95% by weight of water, preferably 50% to 90% by weight of water, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0199] Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises a water-soluble solvent.

[0200] In the present invention, "water-soluble solvent" means a compound that is liquid at room temperature and miscible with water (miscibility in water greater than 50% by weight at 25°C and atmospheric pressure).

[0201] Water-soluble solvents are different from the polyols mentioned above.

[0202] The water-soluble solvents usable in the composition of the invention may be besides being volatile.

[0203] Among the water-soluble solvents that can be used in the composition according to the invention, we can mention in particular lower monoalcohols having 1 to 5 carbon atoms such as ethanol and isopropanol, C3 and C4 ketones and C2-C4 aldehydes.

[0204] Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises ethanol.

[0205] The composition according to the invention may comprise from 0.1% to 20% by weight of water-soluble solvent, preferably from 0.5% to 10% by weight of water-soluble solvent, more preferably from 0.5% to 5% by weight of water-soluble solvent relative to the total weight of the composition. cosmetic actives

[0206] The composition according to the invention may further comprise at least one additional cosmetic active ingredient.

[0207] This may include, in particular, at least one active ingredient for the care of oily skin.

[0208] It may also advantageously comprise at least one additional active ingredient for the care of aged skin.

[0209] In the context of the present invention, the term "additional active ingredient" means a compound which, by itself, i.e., not requiring the intervention of an external agent to activate it, has a biological activity which can be especially : - a desquamating activity (which allows the comedones to open), and / or - antimicrobial activity (particularly against C. acnes), and / or - a soothing or anti-irritant activity, and / or - a sebum-regulating or anti-seborrheic activity, and / or - an astringent activity, and / or - an activity aimed at combating and / or preventing the signs of aging, particularly chronobiological aging, for example wrinkles and fine lines.

[0210] The additional active ingredient usable in the compositions of the invention is preferably chosen from among the moisturizing agents other than the polyols mentioned above, humectants, desquamating agents, soothing agents, anti-irritant agents, sebo-regulating or anti-seborrheic agents, depigmenting agents, anti-aging agents, mattifying agents, healing agents, antibacterial agents, vitamins, astringent agents, and mixtures thereof in all proportions.

[0211] The composition according to the invention may further comprise at least one additive chosen from among the usual adjuvants in the cosmetic field, such as preservatives, perfumes, colorants, polar additives, surfactants, film-forming polymers other than polysaccharide polymers or modified or unmodified carboxy-vinyl polymers, pH adjusters (acids or bases), dispersing agents, and mixtures thereof.

[0212] The additional active ingredient used in the composition according to the invention may represent from 0.0001% to 20%, preferably from 0.01% to 10% and better still, from 0.01% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0213] Of course, a person skilled in the art will take care to choose this or these possible additional compounds and / or their quantity in such a way that the advantageous properties of the composition according to the invention are not, or substantially not, altered by the envisaged addition. Cosmetic composition

[0214] The composition according to the invention comprises a "physiologically acceptable medium".

[0215] For the purposes of this invention, "physiologically acceptable medium" means a medium suitable for the administration of a composition topically, and compatible with all keratinous materials of human beings such as skin, lips, nails, mucous membranes, eyelashes, eyebrows, scalp and / or hair, or any other cutaneous area of ​​the body, preferably the skin.

[0216] According to the invention, a physiologically acceptable medium is preferably a cosmetically acceptable medium, that is to say, without odor or unpleasant appearance, and which is perfectly compatible with the topical route of administration.

[0217] More particularly, the composition according to the invention is suitable for administration by topical route, that is to say by application to the surface of the keratinous material considered, such as the skin considered.

[0218] These compositions are intended in particular for topical application on the face and / or body.

[0219] In particular, the composition is applied to areas of the face and more particularly to the forehead and / or the wings of the nose and / or the chin.

[0220] The pH of said composition is advantageously less than or equal to 8, preferably from 4 to 7, even better from 4.5 to 7.

[0221] The composition according to the invention can be presented in all the galenic forms normally used in the cosmetic field.

[0222] It may be in particular in the form of an aqueous, hydroalcoholic, possibly gelled solution, a lotion-type dispersion possibly two-phase, an oil-in-water or water-in-oil or multiple emulsion, an aqueous gel, or a dispersion of oils in an aqueous phase, particularly using spherules, these spherules being polymeric particles or, preferably, ionic and / or non-ionic lipid vesicles. It may be of a more or less fluid liquid consistency.

[0223] Preferably, the composition considered according to the invention is distinct from compositions intended primarily for detergent purposes with regard to skin, hair and / or mucous membranes, such as soaps, shampoos and shower gels for washing and / or cleaning.

[0224] The composition according to the invention may include all the constituents usually employed in the envisaged topical application and administration.

[0225] The composition according to the invention may advantageously be in the form of an emulsion, in particular obtained by dispersing an aqueous phase in an oily phase (W / O) or an oily phase in an aqueous phase (W / O), of liquid or semi-liquid consistency such as milk, or of soft consistency, or even as a multiple emulsion (W / O / O or W / O / O). These compositions are prepared according to conventional methods.

[0226] Preferably, the composition according to the invention is in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion.

[0227] Preferably, such an emulsion is not intended to be rinsed after application.

[0228] Preferably, the composition is in the form of a fluid oil-in-water emulsion.

[0229] The composition may alternatively take the form of a face and / or body care or makeup product, and be packaged, for example, in the form of cream in a jar or fluid in a tube or pump bottle or dropper bottle.

[0230] The composition according to the invention can be manufactured by any known process generally used in the cosmetic field.

[0231] The ingredients are mixed before shaping, in the order and under conditions easily determined by those skilled in the art.

[0232] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, other agents intended to enhance the appearance and / or texture of the skin may also be added to the composition according to the invention.

[0233] According to a preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one rhamnolipid, an ascorbic acid analogue selected from ascorbyl glucoside, magnesium ascorbyl phosphate, and mixtures thereof, and at least two polyols selected from caprylyl glycol, butylene glycol, propylene glycol, glycerol, and mixtures thereof.

[0234] According to a more preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one rhamnolipid, ascorbyl glucoside, and at least two polyols selected from caprylyl glycol, butylene glycol, propylene glycol, glycerol, and mixtures thereof. Processes and uses

[0235] The present invention also relates to a cosmetic process for the care of keratinous materials, such as skin, in particular to reduce and / or inhibit and / or prevent the appearance of blackheads, comprising at least one step of applying to said keratinous materials a composition such as described above.

[0236] The present invention also relates to the use of a composition as described above to reduce and / or inhibit and / or prevent the appearance of blackheads on keratinous materials such as skin.

[0237] The cosmetic uses and processes considered according to the invention are non-therapeutic.

[0238] The cosmetic use or process of the invention is implemented by topically administering a composition according to the invention.

[0239] Topical administration consists of the external application to the skin of cosmetic compositions according to the usual techniques for using these compositions.

[0240] By way of illustration, the cosmetic use or process according to the invention can be implemented by topical application, for example daily, of at least one composition according to the invention, which can be, for example, formulated as a cream, gel, serum, lotion, emulsion, cleansing milk, or after-sun composition, preferably in the form of a serum.

[0241] According to one embodiment, the application is repeated, for example, 1 to 2 times daily daily over one or more days and generally over a prolonged period of at least 4, or even 4 to 15 weeks, with, where appropriate, one or more periods of interruption.

[0242] According to another embodiment, the application is daily (once a day) and generally over a prolonged period of at least 4, or even 4 to 15 weeks, with, where appropriate, one or more periods of interruption.

[0243] According to another embodiment, the composition according to the invention will be applied to areas of skin that have been previously cleaned, for example with a suitable soap, and / or previously cleared of blackheads, for example with an adhesive patch or mechanical action.

[0244] According to one embodiment, the composition according to the invention will be applied to areas of skin previously cleaned with a washing solution.

[0245] Furthermore, treatment combinations with possibly topical forms may be considered in order to complement or enhance the activity of the composition according to the invention.

[0246] One could imagine a topical treatment with a composition according to the invention, associated with an ancillary composition dedicated to topical application.

[0247] Thus, the present invention relates in particular to a cosmetic process for the care of keratinous materials, such as skin, in particular to reduce and / or inhibit and / or prevent the appearance of blackheads, comprising: a) a step of topical application to the skin of a cleansing solution; b) a step of topical application to the skin of the composition as described above, in particular in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion; and c) optionally, a topical application step of a composition different from the composition applied in step b), steps b) and c) can be carried out simultaneously or successively.

[0248] Such a composition applied in step c) may be described as an "ancillary composition".

[0249] The washing solution may in particular be in various forms, such as a solution, an aqueous solution, a lotion, a milky lotion, a cream, a gel, a liquid gel, a paste, a serum, a suspension, a dispersion, a fluid, a milk, an emulsion (O / W or W / H form), or others, preferably in the form of an aqueous solution or gel.

[0250] The present invention will now be described more specifically by means of examples, which are in no way limiting to the scope of the invention. However, the examples will support specific features, variants, and preferred embodiments of the invention. Examples

[0251] In the examples, the temperature is given in degrees Celsius, and corresponds to the ambient temperature (20-25 °C), unless otherwise stated, and the pressure is atmospheric pressure at sea level, unless otherwise stated.

[0252] A composition according to the invention (composition 1) and a composition outside the invention (Composition 2), in particular not comprising at least two polyols having from 3 to 16 carbon atoms, were prepared.

[0253] These compositions, in the form of oil-in-water emulsions, comprise the compounds detailed in Table 2 below, in the contents expressed as a percentage by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0254] [Tables2] Phase Compounds (INCI name) Composition 1 (invention) Composition 2 (non-invention) A Water Qsp 100 Qsp 100 Preservatives qs qs Caprylyl glycol 0.3 - Butylene Glycol 5 - Propylene Glycol 5 - Ascorbyl Glucoside 1 1 B Sclerotium gum (and) Xanthan gum(1) 0.6 0.6 Glycerin 5 5 C Oleyl alcohol 2.5 2.5 Glyceryl stearate citrate 0.25 0.25 Carbomer® 1 1 D Sodium Hydroxide Qs pH=6 Qs pH=6 E Glycolipids(3) 1.5 1.5 F Tapioca Starch(4) 2 2 G Ethanol 2 2 1. sold by the Cargill company under the trade name Actigum™ VSX 20; 2. sold by the company Lubrizol under the trade name Carbopol 980 Polymer; 3. sold by the company Evonik Goldschmidt under the trade name Rheance One; 4. sold by the company Agrana Starke under the trade name Organic Tapioca Natural.

[0255] The following compositions 1 and 2 were prepared according to the process below.

[0256] In a tank, the components of phase A are heated to a temperature of 75°C until a perfectly homogeneous medium is obtained using a rotor / stator.

[0257] The components of phase B are dispersed in phase A until a perfectly homogeneous medium is obtained using a rotor / stator.

[0258] The components of phase C are added and homogenized using a rotor / stator, at a temperature of 75°C.

[0259] The components of phase D are dispersed using a rotor / stator, until a homogeneous medium is obtained, maintaining the temperature at 25°C.

[0260] Finally, the components of phase E, F and phase G are added until a homogeneous mixture is obtained under the blades. Measurement of the sensory effect:

[0261] The evaluation of the sensory effect consists of noting the presence and quantity of residues of composition 1 according to the invention and of composition 2, outside the invention, when each composition is applied to the skin, on a scale from 1 (no residues) to 5 (significant quantity of residues).

[0262] To do this, 50 pL of the composition to be tested are taken using an Eppendorf micropipette equipped with a 0.5 mL combitips, then deposited on one half of a SKIN FX support (Reference: SHEET MEDIUM BACK K6 LANGUETTE from AXON CABLE SAS) applied to the back of the hand.

[0263] The composition is then spread with the fingers, by about 15 rotations, twice at 15-second intervals.

[0264] The presence of residues on the fingers that have applied the composition is evaluated.

[0265] The fingers that have applied the composition are brought into contact by making rotations (thumb, index, middle finger) to quantify the amount of residue on the fingers.

[0266] The composition thus spread is left to dry for 120 seconds.

[0267] The fingers are then rinsed with a cloth moistened with warm water.

[0268] Between two assessments, the fingers are rinsed using a cloth moistened with warm water.

[0269] The study is carried out by a panel of 5 experienced people individually assessing the presence of residues according to the above protocol.

[0270] The result is expressed as the average of the scores obtained, rounded to the nearest half-unit, according to the following scale: - score < 3: few or no residues; - score equal to 3: acceptable quantity of residues; - score > 3: significant quantity of residues.

[0271] According to the invention, a composition is considered to have unacceptable residues if its average score according to the above protocol is greater than or equal to 3.0. Viscosity measurement:

[0272] The viscosity of the compositions can be measured using a Rheometer (Rheomat RM200).

[0273] The measurement is carried out using an immersed element (moving or measuring body) rotating at a chosen and constant speed. The measurement is carried out with an assembly of the product to be analyzed – measuring cup – measuring body at a given setpoint temperature, regulated for example by means of a thermostatic bath.

[0274] 60 ml of the composition to be tested is introduced into the beaker, avoiding the introduction of air and by pouring along the wall.

[0275] The mobile device used to perform the measurements is chosen according to the viscosity of the product to be analyzed:

[0276] - Ml: lotion;

[0277] - M2: fluid milk;

[0278] - M3: cream, thickened milk; and / or

[0279] - M4: thick cream,

[0280] preferably M2.

[0281] The device program is to perform a system of 75 measurements, with a rotation speed of 200 rpm. The setpoint temperature is 25 °C. The viscosity is taken after 10 minutes of rotation of the measuring body.

[0282] The results are expressed in Pa.s.

[0283] A composition can be considered to be fluid if it has a viscosity less than or equal to 0.65 Pa.s as measured according to the protocol defined above. Sensory and viscosity result:

[0284] The sensory effect and viscosity of composition 1 according to the invention and of composition 2 outside the invention were evaluated according to the measurement protocols detailed above.

[0285] The results of the sensory and viscosity effect are compiled in Table 3 below.

[0286] [Tables3] Compositions Composition 1 (invention) Composition 2 (non-invention) Sensory effect (amount of residue) 2 3.5 Viscosity (in Pa.s with mobile M2 at T=10 minutes) 0.55 0.85

[0287] Composition 1 according to the invention has a fluid texture, unlike composition 2, outside the invention, which has a higher viscosity and therefore a thicker texture.

[0288] Moreover, composition 1 according to the invention has a pleasant final sensory experience and little or no pilling phenomenon when the composition is applied to the user's skin, unlike composition 2.

[0289] It follows that a composition according to the invention, comprising at least one glycolipid, an ascorbic acid analogue and at least two polyols having from 3 to 16 carbon atoms, exhibits both a fluid texture and advantageous sensory properties, compared to a composition not comprising at least two polyols having from 3 to 16 carbon atoms.

Claims

Demands

1.

2. A non-rinsed composition, in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion, particularly for the care of keratinous materials, comprising: - at least one glycolipid selected from the rhamnolipids, - at least one ascorbic acid analogue, and - at least two polyols having from 3 to 16 carbon atoms, said at least one ascorbic acid analogue being selected from ascorbyl glucoside, magnesium ascorbyl phosphate and mixtures thereof, and the said at least two polyols being present in a content ranging from 1% to 30% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Composition according to claim 1, wherein the rhamnolipid(s) are selected from the di-rhamnolipids corresponding to the formula

3. in which: - m denotes an integer equal to 2, 1 or 0, - n denotes an integer equal to 1, and - Ri and R2, independently of each other, represent hydrocarbon radicals, identical or different, having from 2 to 24 carbon atoms, preferably from 5 to 13 carbon atoms, branched or unbranched, substituted or unsubstituted, in particular hydroxy-substituted, saturated or unsaturated, preferably a mono-, di-, or tri-unsaturated alkyl radical, as well as their salts, solvates, and optical isomers. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the rhamnolipid(s) are selected from the di-rhamnolipids corresponding to the general formula (IV):

4. in which: - m denotes an integer equal to 2, 1 or 0, preferably m is equal to 1, - n is equal to 1, - Ri is a radical -(CH2)P-CH3, with p being an integer ranging from 1 to 23, preferably from 4 to 12, - R2 is a radical -(CH2)q-CH3, with q being an integer ranging from 1 to 23, preferably from 4 to 12, as well as their salts, solvates, and optical isomers. Composition according to any one of claims 2 or 3, comprising a mixture of at least two, in particular at least three dirhamnolipids, preferably selected from dirhamnolipids conforming to formula (III) as defined in claim 2 or to formula (IV) as defined in claim 3, more preferably selected from: - a di-rhamnolipid of formula (IV) as defined in claim 3, in which p and q are identical and equal to 6 and n and m are equal to 1, - a dirhamnolipid of formula (IV) as defined in claim 3, in which n and m are equal to 1, p is equal to 6, q is equal to 8, and - a dirhamnolipid of formula (III) as defined in claim 2, in which n and m are equal to 1, Ri represents a radical -(CH2)O CH3 with o being an integer ranging from 4 to 12 and R2 is chosen from the radicals pentenyl, hexenyl, heptenyl, octenyl, nonenyl, decenyl, undecenyl, dodecenyl, tridecenyl, and preferably, Ri is a -(CH2)6CH3 radical and R2 is a nonenyl radical.

5. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, comprising said glycolipid(s) selected from rhamnolipids, in a content of 0.01% to 10% by weight, preferably 0.1% to 5% by weight, even better 0.3% to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

6. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the ascorbic acid analogue(s) are present in the composition in a content ranging from 0.1% to 10% by weight, more preferably from 0.3% to 5% by weight, better from 0.5% to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

7. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, comprising at least two polyols having from 3 to 10 carbon atoms, preferably from 3 to 8 carbon atoms.

8. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the polyols are selected from caprylyl glycol, butylene glycol, propylene glycol, glycerol, and mixtures thereof.

9. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the polyols having from 3 to 16 carbon atoms are present in the composition in a content from 3% to 20% by weight, more preferably from 5% to 17% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

10. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, comprising at least one carboxyvinyl polymer, modified or unmodified, preferably selected from crosslinked (meth)acrylic acid homopolymers, in particular a carbomer.

11. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, comprising at least one polysaccharide polymer, preferably selected from non-starch heteropolysaccharides, non-starch homopolysaccharides and mixtures thereof, more preferably selected from xanthan gum, scleroglucan gum, and mixtures thereof.

12. A method for caring for keratinous materials, such as skin, in particular to reduce and / or inhibit and / or prevent the appearance of blackheads, comprising at least one step of applying to said keratinous materials a composition as defined according to any one of claims 1 to 11.

13. Use of a composition as defined according to any one of claims 1 to 11, to reduce and / or inhibit and / or prevent the appearance of blackheads on keratinous materials such as skin.