SOLID ANHYDROUS COMPOSITION COMPRISING ETHYLCELLULOSE, AN ALKYL BENZOATE, A PHENYLATED SILICON OIL AND THE PROCESS FOR IMPLEMENTING IT

Abstract

SOLID ANHYDROUS COMPOSITION COMPRISING ETHYLCELLULOSE, AN ALKYLBENZOATE, A PHENYLATED SILICON OIL AND METHOD FOR IMPLEMENTING IT The invention relates to a solid makeup composition for human keratinous materials, in particular skin and lips, comprising * ethylcellulose, * at least one first oil selected from C8-C20 benzoic acid and monoalcohol esters, * at least one second non-volatile polar hydrocarbon oil selected from C10-C26 alcohols and optionally from esters different from the first oil(s), * at least one third oil selected from non-volatile phenylated silicones comprising at least one dimethicone fragment, * optionally at least one fourth non-volatile silicone oil, either non-phenylated or phenylated and lacking a dimethicone fragment, * the oil contents being such that the weight ratio of the first(s),The second and, where applicable, fourth / third oil(s) is less than or equal to 1. It also relates to a skin or lip makeup process in which the aforementioned composition is applied.

Description

Title of the invention: SOLID ANHYDROUS COMPOSITION INCLUDING ETHYLCELLULOSE, AN ALKYL BENZOATE, A PHENYLATED SILICON OIL AND A PROCESS FOR IMPLEMENTING IT

[0001] The present invention relates to a solid makeup composition for keratinous materials, particularly skin and / or lips, comprising ethylcellulose, at least one benzoate ester oil, at least one liquid fatty alcohol, and at least one phenylened silicone oil comprising a dimethicone fragment, in specific proportions. It also relates to a makeup and / or skincare method, particularly for lips, consisting of using such a composition.

[0002] The present invention is more particularly concerned with skin and / or lip makeup compositions for which a glossy finish is desired.

[0003] Anhydrous compositions, liquid or solid, dedicated in particular to the makeup of human keratinous materials, such as skin and lips, which give a glossy result, are obtained from mixtures comprising relatively high contents of oils, in particular non-volatile, as well as coloring materials such as mother-of-pearl and / or pigments.

[0004] In the case of fluid compositions, they must have sufficient viscosity to ensure the stability of said compositions over time, in particular to keep the colorants in suspension, and to prevent the composition from running outside the areas to be treated or made up during application. The viscosity of the compositions must also limit their migration into the wrinkles and fine lines around the lips after application. However, this viscosity must remain such that the compositions can be applied satisfactorily, with good glide, to obtain a homogeneous, sufficiently thin deposit.

[0005] In the case of solid compositions, structuring agents, such as waxes, are often added to the aforementioned mixtures. These compounds must sufficiently rigidify the compositions so that they can be molded into stick form without impairing their properties of use. The compositions must, in fact, be able to break down to allow the easy application of an appropriate amount to the lips. For example, document WO2017 / 108584 discloses anhydrous makeup compositions comprising a first oil, such as octyldodecanol, at least one non-volatile silicone oil incompatible with the first oil, and ethylcellulose.

[0006] These compositions present make it possible to obtain a glossy deposit which remains so over time. However, it would be preferable to further improve the transfer resistance of the resulting deposit, without degrading the glossy properties, the comfort of the resulting deposit, or increasing the sticky feeling or causing a feeling of tightness or dryness of the lips once the composition is applied.

[0007] These problems and others are solved by the present invention, which therefore relates to a solid cosmetic composition for makeup and / or care of human keratinous materials, in particular of the lips, comprising

[0008] * at least ethylcellulose, * at least one first oil selected from monoesters of benzoic acid and monoalcohol, preferably saturated, in C8-C20, preferably in C8-C[8], as well as mixtures thereof, * at least one second non-volatile polar hydrocarbon oil chosen from among the alcohols in C10-C26 and possibly from among the different esters of the first oil(s), * at least one third oil chosen from among non-volatile phenylened silicones comprising at least one dimethicone fragment, * possibly at least one fourth non-phenylated silicone oil or a phenylated silicone oil free of dimethicone fragments, * the oil contents being such that the weight ratio of the first, second and where applicable fourth oil(s) / third oil(s) is less than or equal to 1.

[0009] It also relates to a process for making up human keratinous materials, in particular skin and lips, in which the aforementioned composition is applied.

[0010] The composition according to the invention has the advantage of being stable over time, easy to apply, with improved glide. The resulting deposit is also precise, homogeneous, non-sticky, and does not migrate into wrinkles and fine lines, particularly around the lips or eyes (crow's feet).

[0011] The resulting deposit is also fine, despite a high content of non-volatile oils. The deposit allows for a glossy makeup finish with improved hold. It is also comfortable, without leaving a feeling of dryness or tightness.

[0012] Finally, the resistance to transfer of the deposit obtained by application of the composition according to the invention is improved.

[0013] In what follows, the expression "at least one" is equivalent to "one or more".

[0014] The expressions "between... and..." and "ranging from ... to ..." should be understood inclusive of bounds, unless otherwise specified.

[0015] The temperatures mentioned in the description are given at atmospheric pressure. spherical (1.013 x 105 Pa).

[0016] Since the composition according to the invention is a cosmetic composition, this means in particular that it comprises a physiologically acceptable medium, that is to say a medium particularly suitable for the application of a composition of the invention on human keratinous materials, especially the skin and lips.

[0017] The physiologically acceptable medium is generally adapted to the nature of the support on which the composition is to be applied, as well as to the appearance in which the composition is to be packaged.

[0018] Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises less than 5% by weight of water, more particularly less than 2% by weight of water, or even less than 1% by weight of water, relative to the total weight of the composition. Advantageously, the composition according to the invention is anhydrous. By "anhydrous," it is understood, in particular, that the water is not deliberately added to the composition but may be present in trace amounts in various compounds used.

[0019] The composition according to the invention is in solid form. "Solid" is understood to mean, in particular, a composition that does not flow under its own weight after one hour at room temperature (25°C) and atmospheric pressure. Preferably, the composition according to the invention is in the form of a stick. More specifically, "stick" is understood to mean a dosage form whose hardness can be measured according to the "butter wire" method described below:

[0020] Hardness measurement protocol: The composition in stick form is kept at 20°C for 24 hours before the hardness measurement. The measurement is carried out at 20°C and consists of cutting transversely a stick of product, preferably cylindrical of revolution, using a rigid tungsten wire of diameter 250 pm by moving the wire relative to the stick at a speed of 100 mm / min. The hardness of the samples of compositions of the invention, expressed in Nm1, is measured using a DFGS2 dynamometer marketed by the company INDELCO-CHATILLON. The measurement is repeated three times and then averaged. The average of the three values ​​read using the dynamometer mentioned above, denoted Y, is given in grams. This average is converted to Newtons and then divided by L, which represents the largest dimension through which the wire passes. In the case of a cylindrical rod, L is equal to the diameter (in meters). The hardness is converted to Nm 1 by the equation opposite: (Y x 103 x 9.8) / L.

[0021] According to this measurement method, the composition according to the invention, when in solid form, advantageously exhibits a hardness at 20°C and atmospheric pressure of between 20 and 150 Nm-1, and preferably between 40 and 120 Nm-1. ETHYLCELLULOSE

[0022] As previously stated, the composition according to the invention comprises ethylcellulose.

[0023] Ethylcellulose is an alkyl cellulose ether comprising a chain made up of [3-anhydroglucose] units linked together by acetal bonds. Each anhydroglucose unit has three replaceable hydroxyl groups, all or part of these hydroxyl groups being able to react according to the following reaction: RONa + R'Cl ROR'+ NaCl, where R represents a cellulose radical and R' represents an ethyl radical.

[0024] Total substitution of the three hydroxyl groups would lead to a degree of substitution of 3 for each an-hydroglucose unit, in other words to an alkoxy group content of 54.88%.

[0025] The ethylcellulose polymers used in a cosmetic composition according to the invention are preferably polymers having a degree of substitution in ethoxy groups ranging from 2.5 to 2.6 per anhydroglucose unit, in other words comprising an ethoxy group content ranging from 44 to 50%.

[0026] The ethylcellulose used in the composition according to the invention is more particularly in powder form.

[0027] It is, for example, marketed under the trade names "Ethocel Standard" by Dow Chemicals, including "Ethocel Standard 7 FP Premium" and "Ethocel Standard 100 FP Premium". Other commercially available products, such as those marketed by Ashland, Inc., under the names Aqualon EC type-K, type-N and type-T, preferably type-N, such as N7, N100, are particularly suitable for carrying out the invention.

[0028] Advantageously, the ethylcellulose content varies from 1 to 10% by weight, and preferably from 2 to 6% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0029] The composition according to the invention comprises, in addition to ethylcellulose, at least one particular benzoic acid ester (oil 1), at least one second polar non-volatile hydrocarbon oil different from oil 1, including at least one fatty alcohol (oil 2), at least one phenyl-siliconized non-volatile oil without dimethicone fragments (oil 3), and optionally at least one different siliconeized non-volatile oil (oil 4). The respective contents of the oils in the composition are such that the weight ratio of the first, second, and, where applicable, fourth oil(s) to the third oil(s) is between 0.5 and 1, more particularly between 0.7 and 1. FIRST OILS BENZOIC ACID ESTERS

[0030] The composition according to the invention comprises at least one first oil (therefore a liquid compound at ambient temperature and atmospheric pressure) selected from the esters of benzoic acid and mono-alcohol, preferably saturated, in C8-C2o, preferably in C8-C[8, and mixtures thereof.

[0031] More particularly, the first oil is chosen from C12-C15 alkyl benzoate (C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate - INCI name), C16-C17 alkyl benzoate (C16-17 Alkyl Benzoate - INCI name), stearyl benzoate, isostearyl benzoate, ethylhexyl benzoate and octyldodecyl benzoate, as well as mixtures thereof, and preferably C12-C15 alkyl benzoate.

[0032] Advantageously, the primary oil content is from 8 to 30% by weight, more particularly from 10 to 25% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0033] SECOND POLAR NON-VOLATILE HYDROCARBONATE OILS

[0034] As previously stated, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one second polar non-volatile hydrocarbon oil.

[0035] By "oil" we mean a lipophilic compound that is liquid at room temperature (25°C) and atmospheric pressure (1.013 .105 Pa).

[0036] Advantageously, the oil is immiscible with water. By "immiscible with water," it is meant that mixing equal quantities of water and oil, after stirring, does not lead to a stable, single-phase solution under normal temperature and pressure conditions. Observation is made visually or, if necessary, using a phase-contrast microscope, on 100 g of the mixture obtained after sufficient Rayneri shaking to induce a vortex within the mixture (for example, 200 to 1000 rpm); the resulting mixture is left to stand in a closed bottle for 24 hours at room temperature before observation.

[0037] By "hydrocarbon oil" is meant an oil formed essentially, or even composed, of carbon and hydrogen atoms, and possibly of oxygen and nitrogen atom(s), and not containing other heteroatoms such as one or more silicon atoms. Hydrocarbon oil is therefore distinct from silicone oil. It may contain alcohol, ester, ether, carboxylic acid, amine, and / or amide groups.

[0038] A polar oil within the meaning of the invention comprises, in addition to carbon and hydrogen atoms, at least one oxygen or nitrogen atom, and preferably at least one oxygen atom.

[0039] By "non-volatile oil" is meant an oil having, in particular, a vapor pressure of less than 2.66 Pa, preferably less than 0.13 Pa. By way of example, the vapor pressure can be measured according to the static method or by the isothermal thermogravimetric effusion method, according to the vapor pressure (OECD standard 104).

[0040] The composition according to the invention comprises, as a second oil, at least one C10-C26 alcohol and possibly at least one oil chosen from among the different esters of the first oil(s), C10-C26 alcohols

[0041] The alcohols are more particularly fatty alcohols. They comprise a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched hydrocarbon radical, comprising 10 to 26 carbon atoms, preferably comprising 10 to 24 carbon atoms, and more preferably 12 to 22 carbon atoms. They are preferably monohydroxylated.

[0042] Preferably, the said alcohol(s) are chosen from lauric alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, oleic alcohol, 2-butyloctanol, 2-undecyl pentadecanol, 2-hexyldecyl alcohol, isocetyl alcohol, octyldodecanol and mixtures thereof, and preferably octyldodecanol.

[0043] Non-volatile hydrocarbon oils with ester function(s)

[0044] The second non-volatile hydrocarbon oil may also comprise at least one ester oil different from the first oil(s).

[0045] Advantageously, the non-volatile hydrocarbon ester oil is selected from hydrocarbon compounds comprising one or more ester functions and comprising at least one hydrocarbon group, linear or branched, saturated, unsaturated or aromatic, the total number of carbon atoms preferably being at least 12. In addition, the ester oil may optionally comprise one or more ether or hydroxyl functions.

[0046] Among suitable ester oils, one can mention mono and die esters possibly comprising one or two ether groups; triesters, linear or branched, saturated, unsaturated or aromatic, possibly comprising one to three ether groups; tetraesters; polyesters obtained by condensation of dimer and / or trimer of unsaturated fatty acid and diol; esters and polyesters of mono- or dicarboxylic acid and diol dimer or monoalcohols; vegetable oils, as well as mixtures thereof.

[0047] * Mono- or di-esters, linear or branched, saturated, unsaturated or aromatic, comprising more particularly from 12 to 80 carbon atoms, and possibly one or two ether groups. Among compounds of this type, one may cite monoesters or diesters obtained from monocarboxylic or dicarboxylic fatty acids, saturated or unsaturated, in particular comprising from 4 to 28, preferably from 4 to 24 carbon atoms, possibly comprising at least one free hydroxyl group, on the one hand, and from monoalcohols or polyols, saturated or unsaturated, comprising from 2 to 26, in particular from 3 to 24 carbon atoms, and 1 to 6 hydroxyl groups, on the other hand; the number of carbon atoms being at least 12, preferably at least 16. In addition, the ester may optionally comprise one or two ether groups and possibly one or two hydroxyl groups. Examples include octyl-2-dodecyl neopentanoate, isodecyl neopentanoate, isotridecyl neopentanoate, isostearyl neopentanoate, isostearyl heptanoate, cetostearyl octanoate, cetyl octanoate, tridecyl octanoate, isononyl isononanoate, isotridecyl isononanoate, octyl isononanoate, hexyl laurate, 2-hexyldecyl laurate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, isopropyl palmitate, ethyl palmitate, 2-octyldecyl palmitate, isopropyl myristate, and myristate of 2-Octyldodecyl, isopropyl stearate, butyl stearate, octyl stearate, octyl-2-dodecyl stearate, glycerin stearate, isopropyl isostearate, isostearyl isostearate, isostearyl behenate, isocetyl stearate, mixtures of esters of capric acid, caprylic acid and coconut alcohol (Ci2-Ci8 alcohols), octyl-2-dodecyl erucate, oleyl erucate,Isostearyl lactate, octyl hydroxy stearate, octyldodecyl hydroxystearate, diisostearyl malate, isocetyl stearoyl stearate, diisostearyl adipate, or mixtures thereof. We can also mention the esters, optionally hydroxylated, of a C2-C8 mono- or polycarboxylic acid and a C2-C8 alcohol. In particular, suitable for implementing the invention are the monoesters of a C2-C8 carboxylic acid and a C2-C8 alcohol, optionally hydroxylated; and the diesters of a C2-C8 dicarboxylic acid and a C2-C8 alcohol, optionally hydroxylated; such as diisopropyl adipate, bis(2-ethylhexyl) adipate, dibutyl adipate, and bis(2-ethylhexyl) succinate. We can also mention esters of monocarboxylic acids, saturated or unsaturated, particularly those comprising 4 to 28 carbon atoms, linear or branched, saturated, unsaturated or aromatic, and of diols, especially glycols, particularly C2-C5, of glycerol or polyglycerol. Examples include propylene glycol monoisostearate, propylene glycol monoricinoleate, neopentylglycol dicaprate, neopentylglycol diheptanoate, propylene glycol dioctanoate, diethylene glycol dii-sononanoate, polyglyceryl-2 diisostearate, polyglyceryl-3 diisostearate, ethylene glycol dibenzoate, diethylene glycol dibenzoate, propylene glycol dibenzoate, dipropylene glycol dibenzoate, and mixtures thereof.

[0048] *Linear or branched triesters, saturated, unsaturated or aromatic, comprising up to 80 carbon atoms, optionally comprising one to three ether groups. Suitable for the invention are esters obtained from mono- or polycarboxylic acids, linear or branched, saturated, unsaturated or aromatic, optionally hydroxylated, in C2-C40, preferably in C4-C40 and from polyols or monoalcohols in C2-C40, preferably in C3-C40; said polyesters optionally comprising at least one free hydroxyl group. One can, for example, use triacetin, as well as triglycerides of saturated or unsaturated fatty acids, in C4-C36, more particularly in C8-C20, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, such as triglycerides of heptanoic or octanoic acids, in particular, one can cite saturated triglycerides such as Caprylic / Capric Triglyceride, for example such as the products marketed under the DUB MCT range by the company Stéarinerie Dubois, glyceryl triheptanoate, glyceryl trioctanoate, triglycerides of acid in Ci8 36 such as those marketed under the reference DUB TGI 24 marketed by Stéarineries Dubois), glyceryl triisostearate. We can also mention glycerol or polyglycerol triesters and carboxylic monoacids such as polyglycerol-2 triisostearate, glyceryl-2 tridecyl tetradecanoate. As an example, one can also mention oils comprising three ester functions, possibly hydroxylated or acetylated, of an acid comprising three carboxylic functions, in C2-C9, possibly hydroxylated, and of a monoalcohol in C2-C20. One can cite the esters of citric acid such as triethyl citrate, trioctyl citrate, tributyl citrate, acetyl tributyl citrate, as well as tridecyl trimellitate, and their mixtures.

[0049] * Tetraesters comprising in particular 35 to 80 carbon atoms, comprising possibly one to three ether groups, such as pentaerythritol or polyglycerol tetraesters and a monocarboxylic acid, for example such as pentaerythrityl tetrapelargonate, pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate, pentaerythrityl tetraiso-nonanoate, polyglyceryl-2 tetraisostearate or pentaerythrityl tetradecanoate.

[0050] * Polyesters obtained by condensation of fatty acid dimers and / or trimers unsaturated and diol such as those described in patent application FR 0 853 634, such as in particular dilinoleic acid and 1,4-butanediol. Examples include the polymer marketed by Biosynthis under the name Viscoplast 14436H (INCI name: Dilinoleic Acid / Butanediol Copolymer), or copolymers of polyols and diacid dimers, and their esters, such as Hailucent ISDA, INCI name Polyglyceryl-2 Isostearate / Dimer Dilinoleate Copolymer.

[0051] * Esters of diol or polyol dimers and mono- and / or dicarboxylic acids. Examples include diol dimer esters of fatty acids and diol dimer esters of dicarboxylic acids, particularly those obtained from a dicarboxylic acid dimer derived specifically from the dimerization of an unsaturated fatty acid, notably in C8 to C34, C12 to C22, C16 to C20, and especially C18, such as dilinoleic diacid esters and dilinoleic diol dimer esters, with the INCI name Dimer Dilinoleyl Dimer Dilinoleate. examples such as those marketed by Nippon Fine Chemical under the trade names Lusplan DD-DA5® and DD-DA7®. Esters obtained by esterification of a polyol, at least one monocarboxylic acid, and at least one dicarboxylic acid are also suitable, as described in particular in US patent 7317068. The polyol more particularly comprises 2 to 20 carbon atoms and 2 to 8 hydroxyl groups, preferably pentaerythritol. More particularly, the monocarboxylic acid comprises 4 to 30 carbon atoms, more particularly 6 to 22 carbon atoms, preferably stearic, isostearic, caprylic, capric acids, or combinations thereof. As for the dicarboxylic acid, linear or branched, saturated, unsaturated, or aromatic, it more particularly comprises 4 to 10 carbon atoms, and preferably adipic acid.Examples include Pentaerythrityl Isostearate / Caprate / Caprylate / Adipate, marketed under the name Crodamol L by the company Croda, and Pentaerythrityl Adipate / Caprate / Caprylate / Heptanoate, marketed under the name Lexfeel 700 EX-LO-MB by the company Inolex.

[0052] * vegetable oils such as jojoba oil, sunflower oil, wheat germ oil, castor oil, corn oil, olive oil, ximenia oil, pracaxi oil, coriander oil, macadamia oil, passionflower oil, argan oil, sesame oil, grapeseed oil, avocado oil, soybean oil, apricot kernel oil (Prunus Armeniaca Kernel Oil), sweet almond oil, rapeseed oil, cottonseed oil, hazelnut oil, alfalfa oil, poppy oil, pumpkin oil, squash oil, blackcurrant oil, evening primrose oil, millet oil, barley oil, quinoa oil, rye oil, safflower oil, oil of candlenut, the liquid fraction of shea butter, the liquid fraction of cocoa butter, and their mixtures.

[0053] The content of second non-volatile polar hydrocarbon oil(s) varies from 8 to 20% by weight, advantageously from 8 to less than 20% by weight, more particularly from 9 to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0054] According to an advantageous embodiment of the invention; the composition comprises at least one C10-C26 alcohol as described above in a content ranging from 8 to 20% by weight, more particularly from 9 to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0055] More particularly, the weight ratio (ethylcellulose / (ethylcellulose + alcohol(s) in C10-C26)*100 is at least 10%, more particularly at least 15% and advantageously does not exceed 60%, preferably does not exceed 50%. THIRD NON-VOLATILE SILICONE OILS

[0056] The composition according to the invention comprises at least one third oil selected from non-volatile phenylened silicones comprising at least one di- fragment methicone.

[0057] For the purposes of this invention, "siliconized oil" means an oil comprising at least one silicon atom, and in particular at least one Si-O group.

[0058] The term “phenylated” specifies that said oil includes in its structure at least one phenyl radical.

[0059] The term "dimethicone fragment" refers to a divalent siloxane group in which the silicon atom bears two methyl groups, this group not being located at one or both ends of the molecule. It can be represented by the following formula: -(Si(CH3)2-O)-.

[0060] Preferably, silicones do not contain a C2-C3 alkylene oxide group, nor a glycerol group.

[0061] Preferably, the composition comprises at least one third oil chosen from the following INCI name compounds: Trimethylsiloxyphenyl Dimethicone, Diphenyl Dimethicone, Tetramethyl Tetraphenyl Trisiloxane and mixtures thereof, preferably Trimethylsiloxyphenyl Dimethicone.

[0062] Diphenyl dimethicone is marketed by Shin Etsu under the names KF-54, KF54HV, KF-50-300CS, KF-53d, and KF-50-100CS. Trimethylsiloxy phenyl dimethicone, for example, is marketed by Wacker Chemie under the names Belsil PDM 1000 and Belsil PDM 20.

[0063] The composition according to the invention further comprises, in particular, 20 to 40% by weight, preferably 25 to 35% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition

[0064] FOURTH OPTIONAL NON-VOLATILE SILICONE OILS

[0065] According to one variant of the invention, the composition optionally comprises at least one fourth non-volatile silicone oil, phenylated and devoid of dimethicone fragment, or non-phenylated.

[0066] Representative examples of these non-volatile non-phenylated silicone oils that can be mentioned include polydimethylsiloxanes, alkyldimethicones.

[0067] Note that "Dimethicone" (INCI name) corresponds to a polydimethylsiloxane (chemical name).

[0068] Preferably, these non-volatile, non-phenylated silicone oils are selected from polydimethylsiloxanes; alkyldimethicones comprising at least one alkyl group in C2-C24, as well as mixtures thereof.

[0069] With regard to phenylated silicone non-volatile oils, devoid of dimethicone fragment, the following INCI names may be cited: Phenyltrimethicone, Trimethyl Pentaphenyl Trisiloxane, alone or in mixtures.

[0070] Thus, these oils can be chosen from Dimethicone, Cetyl Dimethicone, Stearyl Dimethicone, Phenyltrimethicone, Trimethyl Pentaphenyl Trisiloxane, Diphenylsiloxy Phenyl Trimethicone, alone or in mixtures.

[0071] As non-phenylated non-volatile silicone oils suitable for carrying out the invention, we can mention those marketed by Wacker under the Belsil DM range, by Dow Corning with the Xiameter PMX 200 Silicone Fluid range, by Shin Etsu with the KF-96 A range.

[0072] Alkyldimethicone may be marketed for example under the trade references Abil Wax 9800, Abil Wax 9801 of Evonik Goldschmidt, or Dowsil 2502 Cosmetic Fluid, Dowsil 2503 Cosmetic Wax, of Dow Corning; and their mixtures.

[0073] Phenyl silicones are marketed in particular under the names PH-1555 HRI Cosmetic Fluid (Trimethyl Pentaphenyl Trisiloxane), Dow Corning 556 Cosmetic Grade Fluid (Phenyltrimethicone) by Dow Corning; Diphenyl Dimethicone such as the products KF-54, KF54HV, KF-50-300CS, KF-53 d, KF-50-100CS or Diphenylsiloxy Phenyl Trimethicone KF56 A marketed by Shin Etsu.

[0074] If the composition includes it, the content of fourth non-volatile silicone oil(s), phenylated oil(s) without dimethicone fragment, or non-phenylated oil(s), satisfies the condition relating to the weight ratio of oils 1, 2 and 4 / oil 3, less than or equal to 1, mentioned above.

[0075] Advantageously, the content of the fourth oil(s), if the composition includes them, is less than or equal to 5% by weight, more particularly less than or equal to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. NON-VOLATILE HYDROCARBONATE OILS

[0076] The composition according to the invention may optionally include at least one non-volatile, non-polar hydrocarbon oil.

[0077] For the purposes of this invention, "non-polar oil" means an oil selected from among hydrocarbons, that is to say, from among compounds comprising only carbon and hydrogen atoms.

[0078] Preferably, the non-polar, non-volatile hydrocarbon oil can be selected from linear or branched hydrocarbons of mineral, vegetable, or synthetic origin, such as, for example: - paraffin oil, - squalane, particularly of plant origin, - isoeicosane, - mixtures of linear, saturated hydrocarbons, particularly C15-C28, such as mixtures whose INCI names are for example the following: C15-19 Alkane Cl8-21 Alkane, C21-28 Alkane, such as for example the products Gemseal 40, Gemseal 60, Gemseal 120 marketed by Total, Emogreen L19 marketed by SEPPIC, - polybutenes, hydrogenated or not, such for example products from the Indopol range marketed by the company Ineos Oligomers, - polyisobutenes, hydrogenated or not, such for example non-volatile compounds from the Parléam® range marketed by the company Nippon Oil & Fat, - polydecenes, hydrogenated or not, such for example non-volatile compounds from the Silkflo range marketed by the company Ineos, Dekanex by the company IMCD, - and their mixtures.

[0079] If the composition includes it, the content of non-volatile non-polar hydrocarbon oil(s) represents from 0.1 to 15% by weight, more particularly from 1 to 12% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. VOLATILE OILS

[0080] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the composition may also include at least one volatile oil.

[0081] The volatile oil may in particular be a silicone oil, a hydrocarbon oil, preferably non-polar, as well as mixtures thereof.

[0082] By "volatile", we mean an oil whose vapor pressure at 25°C and atmospheric pressure is between 2.66 Pa and 40,000 Pa and preferably between 2.66 and 1300 Pa.

[0083] Examples of usable volatile silicone oils in the invention include linear or cyclic silicones having a viscosity at room temperature of less than 8 centistokes (cSt) (8 x 106m2 / s), and having, in particular, from 2 to 10 silicon atoms, and in particular, from 2 to 7 silicon atoms, these silicones possibly comprising alkyl or alkoxy groups having from 1 to 10 carbon atoms.

[0084] Examples of volatile silicone oils that can be used in the invention include, in particular, Dimethicone with a viscosity of 5 and 6 cSt, octamethyl cyclotetrasiloxane, decamethyl cyclopentasiloxane, dodecamethyl cyclohexasiloxane, heptamethyl hexyltrisiloxane, heptamethyloctyl trisiloxane, hexamethyl disiloxane, octamethyl trisiloxane, decamethyl tetrasiloxane, dodecamethyl pentasiloxane, and mixtures thereof.

[0085] Among volatile hydrocarbon oils, preferably nonpolar, examples include volatile hydrocarbon oils having 8 to 16 carbon atoms and mixtures thereof, and in particular: - C8-Cl6 branched alkanes such as C8-Cl6 isoalkanes (also called isoparaffins), isododecane, isodecane, isohexadecane, and for example oils sold under the Isopar brand names, marketed by ExxonMobil, - linear alkanes, for example such as n-dodecane (C12) and n-tetradecane (Cl4) sold by Sasol under the references Parafol 12-97 and Parafol 14-97 respectively, the undecane-tridecane mixture (Cetiol UT), the mixtures of n-undecane (Cil) and n-tridecane (C13) obtained in examples 1 and 2 of application WO2008 / 155059 of Société Cognis and their mixtures.

[0086] When the composition includes at least one additional volatile oil, their content represents more particularly from 0.1 to 15% by weight, more particularly from 1 to 12% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. WAXES

[0087] The composition according to the invention may advantageously comprise at least one wax.

[0088] For the purposes of this invention, "wax" means a lipophilic compound, solid at room temperature (25°C), with a reversible solid / liquid change of state, having a melting point greater than or equal to 30°C and up to 120°C.

[0089] For the purposes of the invention, the melting temperature corresponds to the temperature of the most endothermic peak observed in thermal analysis (DSC) as described in ISO 11357-3; 1999. The melting point of the wax can be measured using a differential scanning calorimeter (DSC), for example the calorimeter sold under the name "DSC Q2000" by TA Instruments with the "TA Universal Analysis" software.

[0090] The measurement protocol is as follows: A 5 mg sample of wax is placed in a crucible and subjected to a first temperature increase from -20°C to 120°C, at a heating rate of 10°C / minute, then is cooled from 120°C to -20°C at a cooling rate of 10°C / minute and finally subjected to a second temperature increase from -20°C to 120°C at a heating rate of 5°C / minute. During the second temperature rise, the melting point of the solid fat is measured, corresponding to the temperature of the most endothermic peak of the observed melting curve, representing the variation of the difference in absorbed power as a function of temperature. The enthalpy of fusion of the wax (AHf) can also be measured, corresponding to the integral of the entire melting curve obtained. This enthalpy of fusion of the wax is the amount of energy required to change the compound from a solid to a liquid state. It is expressed in J / g.

[0091] Waxes can be siliconed and preferably hydrocarbon-based. They are also of vegetable, mineral, animal and / or synthetic origin.

[0092] In particular, the waxes have a melting temperature preferably greater than or equal to 35°C and better greater than or equal to 40°C. Non-polar waxes

[0093] By "nonpolar hydrocarbon wax", in the context of the present invention, means a wax consisting solely of carbon and hydrogen atoms and free from heteroatoms, such as for example N, O, Si, P....

[0094] As examples of non-polar waxes suitable for the invention, mention may be made in particular of hydrocarbon waxes such as microcrystalline waxes, paraffin waxes, ozokerite, polymethylene waxes, polyethylene waxes, microwaxes in particular of polyethylene. Polar waxes

[0095] Polar waxes can in particular be hydrocarbon or silicone-based.

[0096] For the purposes of this invention, "polar hydrocarbon wax" means a wax whose chemical structure is essentially formed, or even composed, of carbon and hydrogen atoms, and comprising at least one heteroatom, more particularly selected from oxygen, possibly nitrogen, or mixtures thereof. It may thus contain alcohol, ester, ether, carboxylic acid, amine and / or amide groups.

[0097] By "siliconized wax" is meant an oil comprising at least one silicon atom, and in particular comprising Si-O groups.

[0098] According to a first preferred embodiment, the polar wax is a hydrocarbon wax.

[0099] As a hydrocarbon polar wax, a wax chosen from among ester waxes and alcohol waxes is preferred.

[0100] According to the invention, "ester wax" means a wax comprising at least one ester function. Ester waxes may also be hydroxylated.

[0101] By "alcohol wax", according to the invention, a wax comprising at least one alcohol function, that is to say comprising at least one free hydroxyl (OH) group.

[0102] In particular, it can be used as an ester wax, alone or in mixtures: (i) Waxes of the formula RiCOOR2, in which Ri and R2 represent linear, branched, or cyclic aliphatic chains with a number of atoms ranging from 6 to 50, particularly from 10 to 50, which may contain a heteroatom such as, for example, oxygen or nitrogen, and whose melting point ranges, more specifically, from 30 to 120°C. In particular, an alkyl (hydroxystearyloxy)stearate in the C2O-C4O group (the alkyl group comprising 20 to 40 carbon atoms), alone or in a mixture, or an alkyl stearate in the C2O-C4O group, can be used as an ester wax. Such waxes are sold, in particular, under the names "Kester Wax K 82 P®", "Hydroxypolyester K 82 P®", "Kester Wax K 80 P®", or "Kester Wax K82H" by the company Koster Keunen. use stearyl heptanoate and stearyl caprylate and their mixtures. ii) di-(trimethyl-1,1,1-propane tetrastearate), (iii) Diester waxes of a dicarboxylic acid of general formula R3-(-OCO-R4-COO-R5), wherein R3 and R5 are identical or different, preferably identical, and represent a C4-C30 alkyl group, and R4 represents a linear or branched C4-C30 aliphatic group, which may or may not contain one or more unsaturates. Preferably, the C4-C30 aliphatic group is linear and unsaturated. (iv) We can also mention waxes obtained by catalytic hydrogenation of animal or vegetable oils having, in particular, linear or branched fatty chains in the C8-C32 range, for example, hydrogenated jojoba oil, hydrogenated sunflower oil, hydrogenated castor oil, hydrogenated coconut oil, as well as waxes obtained by hydrogenation of esterified castor oil with cetyl alcohol, such as those sold in the Phytowax Castor range, for example, Phytowax Castor 22L73®, or waxes obtained by hydrogenation of esterified olive oil with stearyl alcohol, such as those in the Phytowax Olive range, for example, Phytowax Olive 18L57, marketed by the company Sophim. Such waxes are described in particular in application FR2792190. (v) Waxes corresponding to partial or total esters, preferably total, of a saturated C16-C30 carboxylic acid, optionally hydroxylated, with glycerol. By total esters, it is understood that all the hydroxyl groups of glycerol are esterified. Examples include trihydroxystearine (or glyceryl trihydroxystearate), tristearine (or glyceryl tristearate), and tribehenin (or glyceryl tribehenate), alone or in mixtures. Suitable compounds include triesters of glycerol and 12-hydroxystearic acid, or of hydrogenated castor oil, such as Thixcin R and Thixcin E, marketed by Elementis Specialties. vi) We can also mention waxes of animal or vegetable origin, such as beeswax, synthetic beeswax, camauba wax, candelilla wax, rice bran wax, Ouricury wax, Alfa wax, cork fiber wax, sugar cane wax, Japanese wax, sumac wax, montan wax, orange wax, laurel wax, sunflower wax, particularly refined. vii) We can also mention hydrocarbon waxes, polyoxyalkylated or polyglycerolated, natural or synthetic, of animal or vegetable origin; the number of oxyalkylated units (C2-C4) can vary from 2 to 100, the number of glycerol units can vary from 1 to 20. Examples include polyoxyethylenated beeswax, such as PEG-6 beeswax and PEG-8 beeswax; polyoxyethylenated carnauba wax, such as PEG-12 carnauba; and lanolin waxes, hydrogenated or not. polyoxyethenate or polyoxypropylene, such as PEG-30 lanolin, PEG-75 lanolin; PPG-5 lanolin wax glyceride; polyglycerol beeswax, including polyglyceryl-3 Beewax, the Acacia Decurrens / Jojoba / Sunflower Seed Wax / Polyglyceryl-3 Esters mixture, polyglycerol vegetable waxes such as mimosa, jojoba, sunflower waxes, and their mixtures (Acacia Decurrens / Jojoba / Sunflower Seed Wax Polyglyceryl-3 Esters).

[0103] According to another embodiment, the polar wax can be an alcohol wax. Examples of alcohol waxes include mixtures of linear, saturated, C3o-C5o alcohols such as, for example, Performacol 550 Alcohol wax from New Phase Technologie, stearic alcohol, cetyl alcohol, or mixtures thereof. Silicone waxes

[0104] Examples of silicone waxes include mixtures containing a compound of the type C30-45 Alkyldimethylsilyl Polypropylsilsesquioxane (INCI name), such as the Dow Corning SW-8005 C30 Resin Wax marketed by Dow Corning. Examples also include mixtures containing a compound of the type C30-45 Alkyl Methicone (INCI name), such as the Dow Corning® AMS-C30 Cosmetic Wax. Silicone beeswax may also be mentioned.

[0105] Preferably, if the composition includes it, the wax is chosen from among hydrocarbon waxes. More particularly, it is chosen from among non-polar waxes; polar hydrocarbon waxes such as waxes of animal or vegetable origin, waxes of animal or vegetable origin obtained by catalytic hydrogenation of animal or vegetable oils; alcohol waxes; as well as mixtures thereof; and preferably from among non-polar hydrocarbon waxes, alone or in mixtures.

[0106] The wax content, if included in the composition, advantageously varies from 1 to 20% by weight, in particular from 5 to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. PASTY COMPOUNDS

[0107] The composition according to the invention may also include at least one paste-like compound at room temperature and atmospheric pressure.

[0108] By "pasty" in the context of the present invention, we mean a lipophilic compound with reversible solid / liquid phase change, exhibiting in particular in the solid state an anisotropic crystalline organization, and comprising at room temperature a liquid fraction and a solid fraction.

[0109] In other words, the initial melting temperature of the paste-like compound may be lower than room temperature. The liquid fraction of the paste-like compound measured at room temperature may represent 9 to 97% by weight of the compound pasty. This liquid fraction at room temperature preferably represents between 15 and 85%, and even more preferably between 40 and 85% by weight.

[0110] The melting point of the pasty fat is determined according to the same principle as that detailed previously for waxes. However, in the case of a pasty compound, the measurement protocol is as follows: A 5 mg sample of pasty fat placed in a crucible is subjected to a first temperature increase from -20°C to 100°C, at a heating rate of 10°C / minute, then is cooled from 100°C to -20°C at a cooling rate of 10°C / minute and finally subjected to a second temperature increase from -20°C to 100°C at a heating rate of 5°C / minute. The melting point of the pasty fat is the temperature value corresponding to the peak of the curve representing the variation of the difference in absorbed power as a function of temperature. It should be noted that the liquid fraction by weight of the pasty fat at room temperature is equal to the ratio of the enthalpy of fusion consumed at room temperature to the enthalpy of fusion of the pasty fat. The enthalpy of fusion of a fat in a paste form is the enthalpy consumed by the fat to change from a solid to a liquid state. A fat in a paste form is said to be in a solid state when its entire mass is in crystalline solid form. A fat in a paste form is said to be in a liquid state when its entire mass is in liquid form. The enthalpy of fusion of a fat-based substance is the amount of energy required to change the fat-based substance from a solid to a liquid state. It is expressed in J / g. The enthalpy of fusion of the fat-based substance is equal to the energy generated under the curve of the resulting thermogram.

[0111] The paste compound can in particular be chosen from synthetic paste compounds and fats of vegetable origin.

[0112] The paste compound(s) may in particular be selected from: - lanolin and its derivatives, such as lanolin alcohol, oxyethylenated lanolins, acetylated lanolin, lanolin esters such as isopropyl lanolate, oxypropylenated lanolins; - Vaseline (also called petrolatum), - C2-C4 pentaerythritol and polyalkylene glycol ethers, for example, compounds with the following INCI names: PEG-5 Pentaerythrityl Ether, PPG-5 Pentaerythrityl Ether, and mixtures thereof. One example is the mixture marketed under the name Lanolide by the company Vevy, - Liposoluble polyethers resulting from the polyetherification of one or more C2-C10 diols, preferably C2-C50. Among liposoluble polyethers, ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide copolymers are particularly considered. with long-chain C6-C30 alkylene oxides, preferably such that the weight ratio of ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide with alkylene oxides in the copolymer is 5:95 to 70:30. In this family, we will notably mention the product with the INCI name PEG-45 / Dodecyl Glycol Copolymer, marketed for example under the brand name Elfacos ST9 by Akzo Nobel, - esters resulting from the condensation of a linear or branched dicarboxylic acid, preferably saturated, in C6-C1O and an ester of diglycerol and monocarboxylic acids, possibly hydroxylated, linear or branched, preferably saturated, in C6-C2O, in particular the diester obtained by condensation of adipic acid and a mixture of diglycerol esters with a mixture of C6-C2O fatty acids such as caprylic acid, capric acid, stearic acid, isostearic acid and 12-hydroxystearic acid, notably marketed under the reference Softisan® 649 by the company Cremer Oleo. (INCI name: Bis-Diglyceryl Polyacyladipate-2), - triglycerides of fatty acids, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, possibly mono or polyhydroxylated, preferably Ci2-Ci8, possibly hydrogenated (totally or partially); such as, for example, saturated fatty acid glycerides C12-C18 marketed under the name Softisan 100® by the company Cremer Oleo (INCI name: Hydrogenated Coco-Glycerides), - diol dimer esters, or polyol esters, and diacid dimer esters such as: * dilinoleic alcohol and dilinoleic acid dimer esters whose hydroxyl groups are esterified by a mixture of phytosterols, behenyl alcohol and isostearyl alcohol, for example the ester sold under the name Plandool G by the company Nippon Fine Chemical (INCI name: Bis-Behenyl / Isostearyl / Phytosteryl Dimer Dilinoleyl Dimer Dilinoleate); * esters of dilinoleic acid and a mixture of phytosterols, isostearyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol and behenyl alcohol, for example the ester sold under the name Plandool H or Plandool S by the company Nippon Fine Chemical (INCI name: Phytosteryl / Isostearyl / Cetyl / Stearyl / Behenyl Dimer Dilinoleate); - butters of vegetable origin such as mango butter, such as that marketed under the reference Lipex 203 by the company Aarhuskarlshamn, shea butter, in particular that whose INCI name is Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, such as that marketed under the reference Sheasoft® by the company Aarhuskarlshamn, cupuacu butter (Rain forest RF3410 from the company Beraca Sabara), murumuru butter (Rain Forest RF3710 from the company Beraca Sabara), cocoa butter; as well as orange wax such, for example, that marketed under the reference Orange Peel Wax by the company Koster Keunen, - vegetable oils that are fully or partially hydrogenated, such as hydrogenated soybean oil, hydrogenated coconut oil, hydrogenated rapeseed oil, mixtures of hydrogenated vegetable oils such as the mixture of hydrogenated soybean, coconut, palm and rapeseed vegetable oil, for example the mixture marketed under the reference Akogel® by the company Aarhuskarlshamn (INCI name Hydrogenated Vegetable Oil), partially hydrogenated isomerized trans jojoba oil manufactured or marketed by the company Desert Whale under the trade name Iso-Jojoba-50®, partially hydrogenated olive oil such as, for example, the compound marketed under the reference Beurrolive by the company Soliance, - hydrogenated castor oil esters, such as hydrogenated castor oil dimer di-linoleate for example Risocast-DA-L sold by Kokyu Alcohol Kogyo, hydrogenated castor oil isostearate for example Salacos HCIS (VL) sold by Nisshin Oil, - and their mixtures.

[0113] Preferably, the paste compound(s) are chosen from the following INCI products: PEG-45 / Dodecyl Glycol Copolymer, Bis-Diglyceryl Polyacyladipate-2, Hydrogenated Coco-Glycerides, from diol dimer esters, or from polyol, and diacid dimer esters, from vegetable butters, and their mixtures.

[0114] If the composition includes at least one paste compound, its content varies from 0.5 to 15% by weight, and preferably from 2 to 12% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. COLORING MATERIALS

[0115] The composition according to the invention preferably comprises at least one coloring material, synthetic, natural or of natural origin.

[0116] More particularly, the content of colouring matter(s) of the composition is advantageously at least 0.01% by weight, more particularly between 0.05 and 30% by weight, in particular between 0.1 and 25% by weight, preferably from 0.1 to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0117] The colouring material(s) may be chosen from coated or uncoated pigments, water-soluble dyes, fat-soluble dyes, and mixtures thereof. Pigments

[0118] The term "pigments" means white or colored particles, mineral or organic, insoluble in the composition medium, intended to color and / or opacify the composition and / or the resulting deposit. Pigments are therefore not fillers.

[0119] According to a first particular embodiment, the pigments used are chosen from mineral pigments.

[0120] By "mineral pigment" is meant any pigment that meets the definition of The Ullmann Encyclopedia, in the chapter on inorganic pigments, lists mineral pigments useful in the present invention, including zirconium and cerium oxides, as well as zinc, iron (black, yellow, or red), and chromium oxides, manganese violet, ultramarine blue, chromium hydrate and ferric blue, titanium dioxide, and metallic powders such as aluminum and copper powder. The following mineral pigments can also be used: Ta₂O₅, Ti₃O₅, Ti₂O₃, TiO, and ZrO₂ mixed with TiO₂, ZrO₂, Nb₂O₅, CeO₂, and ZnS.

[0121] The size of the pigment useful in the context of the present invention is generally greater than 100 nm and can go up to 10 µm, preferably from 200 nm to 5 µm, and more preferably from 300 nm to 1 µm.

[0122] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the pigments have a size characterized by a D

[50] greater than 100 nm and up to 10 qm, preferably from 200 nm to 5 qm, and more preferably from 300 nm to 1 qm.

[0123] The sizes are measured by static light scattering using a commercial particle size analyzer, specifically the Malvem MasterSizer 3000®, which allows for the determination of the particle size distribution of all particles over a wide range from 0.01 µm to 1000 µm. The data are processed based on the classical Mie scattering theory. This theory is best suited for size distributions ranging from submicron to multimicron, and it allows for the determination of an "effective" particle diameter. This theory is notably described in Van de Hulst, H.C., "Light Scattering by Small Particles," Chapters 9 and 10, Wiley, New York, 1957.

[0124] D

[50] represents the maximum size that 50% of the particles have by volume.

[0125] In the context of the present invention, the mineral pigments are more particularly iron oxide and / or titanium dioxide. By way of example, titanium dioxide and iron oxide coated with aluminum stearoyl glutamate, for example, marketed under the reference NAI® by MIYOSHI KASEI, may be cited more particularly.

[0126] As mineral pigments that can be used in the invention, nacres can also be mentioned.

[0127] By “mother-of-pearl”, one must understand colored particles of any shape, iridescent or not, in particular, produced by certain molluscs in their shell or synthesized and which exhibit a color effect by optical interference.

[0128] The nacres can be selected from pearlescent pigments, such as titanium mica coated with an iron oxide, titanium mica coated with bismuth oxychloride, titanium mica coated with chromium oxide, titanium mica coated with an organic dye, as well as pearlescent pigments based on bismuth oxychloride. They can also consist of mica particles on the surface of which are coated at least two successive layers of metallic oxides and / or organic coloring materials are applied.

[0129] We can also cite, as an example of nacres, natural mica covered with titanium oxide, iron oxide, natural pigment or bismuth oxychloride.

[0130] Mother-of-pearl may in particular have a yellow, pink, red, bronze, orange, brown, gold and / or copper colour or reflection.

[0131] Among the pigments usable according to the invention, one can also mention those with an optical effect different from a simple conventional hue effect, that is to say, unified and stabilized such as that produced by conventional coloring materials, such as, for example, monochromatic pigments. For the purposes of the invention, "stabilized" means devoid of any color variability effect with the angle of observation or in response to a change in temperature.

[0132] For example, this material can be chosen from metallic-reflecting particles, goniochromatic coloring agents, diffracting pigments, thermochromic agents, optical brightening agents, and, in particular, interference fibers. Of course, these different materials can be combined in such a way as to provide the simultaneous manifestation of two effects, or even a new effect according to the invention.

[0133] According to a particular mode, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one uncoated pigment.

[0134] According to another particular mode, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one pigment coated by at least one lipophilic or hydrophobic compound.

[0135] This type of pigment is particularly advantageous. Insofar as they are treated with a hydrophobic compound, they exhibit a predominant affinity for an oily phase which can then carry them.

[0136] The coating may also include at least one additional non-lipophilic compound.

[0137] For the purposes of the invention, "coating" of a pigment according to the invention generally means the total or partial surface treatment of the pigment by a surfactant, absorbed, adsorbed or grafted onto said pigment.

[0138] Surface-treated pigments can be prepared using surface treatment techniques of a chemical, electronic, mechano-chemical or mechanical nature well known to those skilled in the art. Commercial products can also be used.

[0139] The surfactant can be absorbed, adsorbed or grafted onto the pigments by solvent evaporation, chemical reaction and creation of a covalent bond.

[0140] According to one variant, the surface treatment consists of coating the pigments.

[0141] The coating may represent from 0.1% to 20% by weight, and in particular from 0.5% to 5% by weight, of the total weight of the coated pigment.

[0142] The coating can be achieved for example by adsorption of a liquid surfactant to the surface of the solid particles by simple mixing under agitation of the particles and said surfactant, possibly hot, prior to the incorporation of the particles into the other ingredients of the makeup or skincare composition.

[0143] The coating can be achieved, for example, by a chemical reaction of a surfactant with the surface of the solid pigment particles and the creation of a covalent bond between the surfactant and the particles. This method is described in particular in US patent 4,578,266.

[0144] The chemical surface treatment may consist of diluting the surfactant in a volatile solvent, dispersing the pigments in this mixture, and then slowly evaporating the volatile solvent so that the surfactant is deposited on the surface of the pigments.

[0145] When the pigment includes a lipophilic or hydrophobic coating, the latter is preferably present in the oily phase of the composition according to the invention.

[0146] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the pigments can be coated according to the invention by at least one compound selected from silicone surfactants; fluorinated surfactants; fluoro-siliconized surfactants; metallic soaps; N-acylated amino acids or their salts; lecithin and its derivatives; isopropyl trisostearyl titanate; isostearyl sebacate; natural vegetable or animal waxes; polar synthetic waxes; fatty esters; phospholipids; and mixtures thereof.

[0147] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the pigments can be coated by a hydrophilic compound.

[0148] According to another particular mode, the colouring material is an organic, synthetic, natural or naturally derived pigment.

[0149] By "organic pigment" is meant any pigment that meets the definition in the Ullmann Encyclopedia in the chapter on organic pigment. The organic pigment may in particular be chosen from among the compounds nitroso, nitro, azo, xanthene, quinoline, anthraquinone, phthalocyanine, of the metal complex type, isoindolinone, isoindoline, quinacridone, perinone, perylene, diketopyrrolopyrrole, thioindigo, dioxazine, triphenylmethane, quinophthalone.

[0150] The organic pigment(s) may be chosen, for example, from carmine, carbon black, aniline black, melanin, azo yellow, quinacridone, phthalocyanine blue, sorghum red, the blue pigments coded in the Color Index under references CI 42090, 69800, 69825, 73000, 74100, 74160, the yellow pigments coded in the Color Index under references CI 11680, 11710, 15985, 19140, 20040, 21100, 21108, 47000, 47005, the green pigments coded in the Color Index under references CI 61565, 61570, 74260, the orange pigments codified in the Color Index under references CI 11725, 15510, 45370, 71105, the red pigments coded in the Color Index under references CI 12085, 12120, 12370, 12420, 12490, 14700, 15525, 15580, 15620, 15630, 15800, 15850, 15865, 15880, 17200, 26100, 45380, 45410, 58000, 73360, 73915, 75470, and the pigments obtained by oxidative polymerization of indole and phenolic derivatives as described in the patent FR 2 679 771.

[0151] The pigments can also be in the form of composite pigments as described in patent EP 1184426. These composite pigments can be composed in particular of particles comprising an inorganic core covered at least partially with an organic pigment and at least one binder ensuring the fixation of the organic pigments on the core.

[0152] The pigment can also be a lacquer. By lacquer, we mean insolubilized dyes adsorbed onto insoluble particles, the whole thus obtained remaining insoluble during use.

[0153] The inorganic substrates on which the dyes are adsorbed are, for example, alumina, silica, calcium sodium borosilicate or calcium aluminium borosilicate, and aluminium.

[0154] Among the organic dyes, we can mention cochineal carmine. We can also mention the products known under the following names: D&C Red 21 (CI 45 380), D&C Orange 5 (CI 45 370), D&C Red 27 (CI 45 410), D&C Orange 10 (CI 45 425), D&C Red 3 (CI 45 430), D&C Red 4 (CI 15 510), D&C Red 33 (CI 17 200), D&C Yellow 5 (CI 19 140), D&C Yellow 6 (CI 15 985), D&C Green (CI 61 570), D&C Yellow 10 (CI 77 002), D&C Green 3 (CI 42 053), D&C Blue 1 (CI 42 090).

[0155] Examples of lacquers include the product known as D&C Red 7 (CI 15 850 :1).

[0156] The pigment(s) are preferably present at a concentration of at least 0.01% by weight, more particularly at least 1% by weight, and even more particularly at least 2% by weight, relative to the weight of the composition concerned. More particularly, the colorant content is less than 30% by weight, and more particularly between 0.05% and 30% by weight, and even more preferably between 0.1% and 25% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Water-soluble or oil-soluble dyes

[0157] According to another particular embodiment of the invention, the coloring matter is a water-soluble dye or a fat-soluble dye.

[0158] For the purposes of this invention, "water-soluble coloring matter" means any compound, generally organic, natural or synthetic, soluble in a phase aqueous or water-miscible solvents and suitable for coloring.

[0159] For the purposes of this invention, "liposoluble colouring material" means any compound, generally organic, natural or synthetic, soluble in an oily phase or solvents miscible with the oily phase and capable of colouring.

[0160] As examples of suitable water-soluble colorants for the invention, synthetic or natural water-soluble colorants such as, for example, FDC Red 4, DC Red 6, DC Red 22, DC Red 28, DC Red 30, DC Red 33, DC Orange 4, DC Yellow 5, DC Yellow 6, DC Yellow 8, FDC Green 3, DC Green 5, FDC Blue 1 may be cited.

[0161] Among the natural water-soluble colorants, anthocyanins can be mentioned.

[0162] As examples of suitable liposoluble colorants for the invention, liposoluble colorants such as, for example, DC Red 17, DC Red 21, DC Red 27, DC Green 6, DC Yellow 11, DC Violet 2, DC Orange 5, Sudan red, Sudan brown may be cited.

[0163] By way of illustration, natural fat-soluble colorants, one can particularly mention carotenes such as [3-carotene, α-carotene, lycopene; quinoline yellow; xanthophylls such as astaxanthin, antheraxanthin, citranaxanthin, cryptoxanthin, canthaxanthin, diatomoxanthin, flavoxanthin, fucoxanthin, lutein, rhodoxanthin, rubixanthin, siphonaxanthin, violaxanthin, zeaxanthin; annatto; curcumin; quinizarin (Ceres Green BB, D&C Green No. 6, CI 61565, 1,4-Di-p-Toluidinoanthraquinone, Green No. 202, Quinzaine Green SS) and chlorophylls.

[0164] If the composition includes them, the water-soluble or fat-soluble colorant(s) are preferably present at levels of less than 4% by weight, or even less than 2% by weight, more preferably ranging from 0.01 to 2% by weight, and even better from 0.02 to 1.5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. CHARGES

[0165] The composition according to the invention may also include at least one filler.

[0166] The term "charge" refers to a particle of organic or inorganic nature, colorless or white, solid, of any shape, insoluble in the medium of the composition at ambient temperature and atmospheric pressure. These charges are advantageously dispersed in the composition.

[0167] The term "inorganic" means any compound whose chemical structure does not include a carbon atom.

[0168] The fillers may or may not be surface coated, and, in particular, they may be surface treated with silicones, amino acids, fluorinated derivatives or any other substance promoting the dispersion and compatibility of the filler in the composition.

[0169] Such fillers are distinct from the mineral thickeners and colouring agents described above.

[0170] The charges can be spherical, that is to say, include at least a general rounded portion, preferably defining at least a portion of a sphere, preferably internally defining a concavity or a hollow (sphere, globules, bowls, horseshoe, etc.) or lamellar.

[0171] Such charges are advantageously chosen from among:

[0172] - silica powders, such as porous silica microspheres sold under the Silica Beads SB-700 by Myoshi; "Sunsphere® H51", "Sunsphere® H33" by Asahi Glass; amorphous silica microspheres coated with polydimethylsiloxane sold under the name "SA Sunsphere® H 33", "SA Sunsphere® H53" by Asahi Glass.

[0173] - acrylic (co)polymer powders, and their derivatives, in particular: * polymethyl methacrylate powder sold under the names Covabead® LH85 by Sensient, or Microsphere M-100® by Matsumoto Yushi-Seiyaku; * Polymethyl methacrylate / ethylene glycol dimethacrylate powder sold under the name Dow Corning 5640 Microsponge® Skin Oil Adsorber by Dow Corning; Ganzpearl® GMP-0820 by Ganz Chemical, * Allyl polymethacrylate / ethylene glycol dimethacrylate powder sold under the names Poly-Pore® L200, Poly-Pore® E200 by Amcol Health and Beauty Solutions Inc., * ethylene glycol dimethacrylate / lauryl methacrylate copolymer powder sold under the name Polytrap® 6603 Adsorber by Amcol Health and Beauty Solutions Inc.; * Acrylate / alkyl acrylate copolymer powder, possibly crosslinked, or crosslinked acrylate / ethylhexyl acrylate copolymer, sold under the name Techpolymer ACP-8C by Sekisui Plastics, * ethylene-acrylate copolymer powder, such as that marketed under the name Flobeads® by Sumitomo Seika Chemicals, * expanded hollow particles of (co-) acrylonitrile polymer sold under the name Expancel by Akzo Nobel, or microspheres marketed under the name Micropearl F 80 ED® by Matsumoto;

[0174] - polyurethane powders, for example sold under the designations D-400, CS-400, D-800 by the Toshiki company.

[0175] - silicone powders advantageously selected from: * polymethylsilsesquioxane powders, in particular those marketed under the name Tospearl, notably Tospearl 145 A, by the company Momentive Per- Formance Materials, * organopolysiloxane elastomer powders coated with silicone resin, in particular silsesquioxane resin, such as the products marketed under the name KSP-100, KSP-101, KSP-102, KSP-103, KSP-104, KSP-105 by the company Shin Etsu, (INCI name: vinyl dimethicone / methicone silsesquioxane Crosspolymer); *silicone elastomer powders such as the products marketed under the name Dowsil Trefil E-506 S Silicone Powder, Trefil® Powder E-506C by the company Dow Corning; * organosilicone particle powders, for example in the form of bowls such as those described in JP-2003 128 788, JP-A-2000-191789, or in application EP1579841 and marketed in particular by the company Takemoto Oil & Fat.

[0176] - polyamide powders, such as Nylon®, in particular Nylon 12; such as nylon powders sold under the name Orgasol® 2002 EXS NAT COS by the company Arkema.

[0177] - powders of natural organic materials such as poly powders saccharide, and in particular starch powders, especially corn, wheat or rice starches, crosslinked or not, starch powders crosslinked by octenyl-succinate anhydride, marketed under the name Dry-Flo® by the company National Starch, waxy corn starch powders such as those marketed under the names C* GEL 04201 by the company Cargill, Corn Starch B by the company Roquette, and Organic Corn Starch by the company Draco Natural Products.

[0178] - spherical cellulose microparticles, such as Cellulobeads D-10, Cel- lulobeads D-5 and Cellulobeads USF marketed by the company Daito Kasei Kogyo.

[0179] - the N-acylated amino acid particles in C8-C22 carbon atoms, the amino acid It could be, for example, lysine, glutamic acid, alanine, preferably lysine. For example, Amihope LL by Ajinomoto or the one marketed under the name Corum 5105 S by Corum.

[0180] - Perlite powders such as those marketed by the company World Minerals under the trade names Perlite P1430, Perlite P2550, Perlite P2040, or OpTiMat® 1430 OR or 2550 OR. Europerl EMP-2 and Europerl 1 by the company Imerys.

[0181] - zeolites such as the products marketed by the company Zeochem under the names nominations ZEOFlair 300, Zeoflair 200, Zeoflair 100, X-MOL and X-MOL MT.

[0182] - calcium magnesium carbonate particles such as those commercially available by the company Imerys under the name Calcidol, by the company LCW (Sensient) under the name Carbomat, by the company Omya under the name Omyacare S 60-AV.

[0183] - Talc particles, for example those sold under the brand names, can also be used. Luzenac Pharma M and UM appointments by Imerys, Rose Talc and Talc SG- 2000 by the company Nippon Talc; particles of natural or synthetic mica, such as those marketed under the names Mica M RP and Silk Mica by the company Merck, or that marketed under the name Sericite S-152-BC by the company Myoshi Kasei; calcium carbonate and magnesium hydrogen carbonate; hydroxyapatite; boron nitride; fluorphlogopite, and mixtures thereof.

[0184] The spherical fillers can be coated with a hydrophobic treatment agent. The hydrophobic treatment agent can be selected from fatty acids such as stearic acid; metallic soaps such as aluminum dimyristate, aluminum salt of hydrogenated tallow glutamate; amino acids; N-acylated amino acids or their salts; lecithin, isopropyl trisostearyl titanate, and mixtures thereof. The N-acylated amino acids can comprise an acyl group having from 8 to 22 carbon atoms, such as, for example, a 2-ethylhexanoyl, caproyl, lauroyl, myristoyl, palmitoyl, stearoyl, or cocoyl group. The salts of these compounds can be aluminum, magnesium, calcium, zirconium, zinc, sodium, or potassium salts. The amino acid can be, for example, lysine, glutamic acid, alanine.The term alkyl mentioned in the compounds cited above refers in particular to an alkyl group having from 1 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably having from 5 to 16 carbon atoms.

[0185] If the composition according to the invention contains it, the content of filler(s) advantageously represents 0.5 and 15% by weight, more particularly 2 to 10% by weight, relative to the weight of the composition. MINERAL THICKENERS

[0186] The composition according to the invention may also include at least one mineral thickener selected from clays, possibly modified, silicas, possibly modified, or mixtures thereof.

[0187] More specifically, if the composition contains it, the mineral thickener content represents 0.1 to 10% by weight, expressed as active matter, preferably 0.2 to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Clays possibly modified

[0188] Clays are silicates containing a cation that can be selected from the cations of calcium, magnesium, aluminum, sodium, potassium, lithium, and mixtures thereof.

[0189] Examples of such products include clays of the smectite family, as well as those of the vermiculite family, stevensite, and chlorites. These clays may be of natural or synthetic origin.

[0190] Preferably, organophilic clays are used, more particularly organophilic clays. Modified clays, such as montmorillonite, bentonite, hectorite, attapulgite, sepiolite, and mixtures thereof. The clay is preferably a bentonite or a hectorite.

[0191] These clays are modified with a chemical compound selected from quaternary amines, tertiary amines, amino acetates, imidazolines, amino soaps, fatty sulfates, alkyl aryl sulfonates, amine oxides, and mixtures thereof.

[0192] We can thus mention hectorites modified by a quaternary amine, more precisely by a halide, such as a chloride, of ammonium of fatty acid in C10 to C22, comprising or not an aromatic group; such as hectorite modified by a halide, preferably a chloride, of d-stearyl di-methyl ammonium (CTFA name: Disteardimonium hectorite), such as, for example, that marketed under the name Bentone 38V, Bentone 38V CG, Bentone EW CE, by the company ELEMENTIS; stearalkonium Hectorites such as in particular the product Bentone 27 V.

[0193] Other examples include quatemium-18 bentonites such as those sold, among others, under the names Bentone 34 marketed by Elementis, Claytone 40, Tixogel VP by United Catalyst and Southern Clay; stearalkonium bentonites such as those sold under the names Tixogel LG by United Catalyst, Claytone AF, Claytone APA by Southern Clay; and quatemium-18 / benzalkonium bentonite such as those sold under the name Claytone HT by Southern Clay.

[0194] According to a preferred embodiment, the thickening agent is selected from organophilic modified clays, in particular organophilic modified hectorites, in particular by halides, in particular chlorides, of benzyldimethyl ammonium stearate, or distearyl dimethyl ammonium.

[0195] According to a variant of the invention, the clay content, possibly modified, varies from 0.2 to 10% by weight, relative to the weight of the composition, and preferably from 0.5 to 5% by weight relative to the weight of the composition. These percentages are expressed as active material. Modified silicas

[0196] One can also mention fumed silica, preferably with a hydrophobic surface treatment, the particle size of which is advantageously less than 1 pm. It is indeed possible to chemically modify the surface of silica by a chemical reaction that reduces the number of silanol groups present on the silica surface. In particular, silanol groups can be substituted by hydrophobic groups, resulting in hydrophobic silica. The hydrophobic groups can be: - trimethylsiloxyl groups, which are notably obtained by treating fumed silica in the presence of hexamethyldisilazane. Silicas treated in this way are called "Silica silylate" according to the CTFA (6th edition, 1995). They are by Examples marketed under the references Aerosil R812® by the company DEGUSSA, CAB-O-SIL TS-530® by the company CABOT, - Dimethylsilyloxyl or polydimethylsiloxane groups, which are obtained in particular by treating fumed silica in the presence of polydimethylsiloxane or dimethyldichlorosilane. Silicas treated in this way are called "Silica dimethyl silylate" according to the CTFA (6th edition, 1995). They are marketed, for example, under the references Aerosil R972® and Aerosil R974® by the company DEGUSSA, and CAB-O-SIL TS-610® and CAB-O-SIL TS-720® by the company CABOT.

[0197] Hydrophobic pyrogenated silica in particular has a particle size that can be nanometric to micrometric, for example ranging from about 5 to 200 nm.

[0198] The composition according to the invention may also include at least some silica aerogel particles.

[0199] Silica aerogels are porous materials obtained by replacing (by drying) the liquid component of a silica gel with air.

[0200] They are generally synthesized by the sol-gel process in a liquid medium and then dried, usually by extraction from a supercritical fluid, most commonly supercritical CO2. This type of drying prevents pore and material contraction. The sol-gel process and the various drying methods are described in detail in Brinker CL, and Scherer GW, Sol-Gel Science: New York: Academie Press, 1990.

[0201] The hydrophobic silica aerogel particles suitable for implementing the invention have a specific surface area per unit mass (SM) of 500 to 1500 m2 / g, preferably 600 to 1200 m2 / g and better 600 to 800 m2 / g, and a size expressed in volume mean diameter (D[0,5]) of 1 to 1500 pm, better 1 to 1000 pm, preferably 1 to 1000 pm, in particular 1 to 30 pm, preferably still 5 to 25 pm, better 5 to 20 pm and even better 5 to 15 pm.

[0202] According to an advantageous embodiment, the hydrophobic silica aerogel particles used in the present invention have a specific surface area per unit mass (SM) ranging from 600 to 800 m2 / g and a size expressed in volume mean diameter (D[0,5]) ranging from 5 to 20 pm and even better from 5 to 15 pm.

[0203] The specific surface area per unit mass can be determined by the nitrogen absorption method known as the BET (BRUNAUER-EMMET-TELLER) method, described in "The Journal of the American Chemical Society", Vol. 60, Page 309, February 1938, and corresponding to the international standard ISO 5794 / 1 (Annex D). The BET specific surface area corresponds to the total specific surface area of ​​the particles considered.

[0204] The particle sizes of silica aerogel can be measured by static light scattering using a commercial MasterSizer-type particle size analyzer 2000 from Malvern. The data are processed based on Mie scattering theory. This theory, accurate for isotropic particles, allows us to determine an "effective" particle diameter in the case of non-spherical particles. This theory is notably described in Van de Hulst, H.C., "Light Scattering by Small Particles," Chapters 9 and 10, Wiley, New York, 1957.

[0205] According to a preferred embodiment, the hydrophobic silica aerogel particles used in the present invention have a specific surface area per unit volume Svallant of 5 to 60 m2 / cm3, preferably of 10 to 50 m2 / cm3 and better of 15 to 40 m2 / cm3.

[0206] The aerogels usable according to the present invention are hydrophobic silica aerogels, preferably silylated silica (INCI name silica silylate).

[0207] Regarding the preparation of surface-modified hydrophobic silica aerogel particles by silylation, reference can be made to US document 7,470,725.

[0208] Preferably, hydrophobic silica aerogel particles modified on the surface by trimethylsilyl groups will be used.

[0209] As examples of hydrophobic silica aerogels that can be used in the invention, we can cite, for instance, the aerogel marketed under the name VM-2260 (INCI name Silica silylate), by the company Dow Corning, whose particles have an average size of about 1000 microns and a specific surface area per unit mass ranging from 600 to 800 m2 / g.

[0210] We can also mention the aerogels marketed by the Cabot company under the references AEROGEL TLD 201, AEROGEL OGD 201, AEROGEL TLD 203, ENOVA® AEROGEL MT 1100, ENOVA AEROGEL MT 1200.

[0211] Preferably, the aerogel marketed under the name VM-2270 (INCI name Silica silylate), by the company Dow Corning, will be used, the particles of which have an average size ranging from 5-15 microns and a specific surface area per unit mass ranging from 600 to 800 m2 / g.

[0212] Preferably, when the composition includes at least one thickening agent selected from possibly modified silicas, these are selected from hydrophobic silica aerogel particles.

[0213] According to a variant of the invention, the silica content, possibly modified, varies from 0.5 to 15% by weight, preferably from 1 to 7% by weight, relative to the weight of the composition. These values ​​are expressed as a percentage of the active ingredient.

[0214] Preferably, the mineral thickeners are chosen from organophilic clays, in particular modified hectorites; hydrophobic treated fumed silica; hydrophobic silica aerogels, or mixtures thereof, and even more specifically at least one organophilic modified clay or at least one hydrophobic modified silica, in particular hydrophobic silica aerogels. OPTIONAL ADDITIVES

[0215] The composition may include at least one optional additive chosen for example from film-forming agents; antioxidants; preservatives; perfumes; flavorings; neutralizers; emollients; organic thickeners such as linear or branched dextrin esters; coalescing agents; moisturizers; vitamins, and mixtures thereof.

[0216] Of course, a person skilled in the art will take care to choose any additional additives and / or their quantity in such a way that the advantageous properties of the composition according to the invention are not, or substantially not, altered by the envisaged addition.

[0217] The following examples serve to illustrate the invention without however limiting its scope. EXAMPLES EXAMPLE 1

[0218] The following compositions are prepared, the ingredients and their respective contents of which are listed in the table below (contents are expressed as % by weight of raw material, unless otherwise indicated): Ingrédients (nom INCI ou nom chimique) Composition 1 C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate (Benzoate de C12 / C15 (DUB B1215) ; Stearinerie Dubois) 15,0 VP / Eicosene Copolymer (Antaron V 220F; Ashland) 5,0 PEG-45 / Dodecyl Glycol Copolymer (Elfacos ST 9 ; Akzo Nobel) 2,0 Polyethylene (Performalene 500-L Polyethylene ; NuCera Solutions) 3,0 Isohexadecane 10,0 Trimethylsiloxyphenyl Dimethicone (Belsil PDM 1000 ; Wacker) 30,0 Mélange de Paraffin, Microcrystalline Wax, Synthetic Wax (Paracera 30540 ; Paramelt) 8,0 Red 7 (and) Isopropyl Titanium Triisostearate (and) Triethoxysi-lylethyl Polydimethylsiloxyethyl Dimethicone (RED 7CA C-TTB2; Kobo) 2,2 Yellow 6 Lake (and) Isopropyl Titanium Triisostearate (and) Trie-thoxysilylethyl Polydimethylsiloxyethyl Dimethicone (YELLOW 6AL C-TTB2; Kobo) 8,0 Ethylcellulose (Aqualon EC N7 Pharm ; Ashland) 4,0 Octyldodecanol qs 100% Ratio 0,9 Préparation des compositions :

[0220] Ethylcellulose is dispersed in a portion of the octyldodecanol and the C12-C15 alkylbenzoate, at 105°C, under Rayneri stirring (sufficient stirring speed to obtain a vortex).

[0221] Once the ethylcellulose is solubilized, the remaining octyldodecanol and C12-C15 alkylbenzoate, VP / Eicosene Copolymer, PEG-45 / Dodecyl Glycol Copolymer and waxes are added under the same temperature and stirring conditions.

[0222] After homogenization, phenylated silicone is added at 105°C under Rayneri stirring for at least 15 minutes.

[0223] Finally, isohexadecane is added under stirring at 105°C.

[0224] Once the mixture is homogenized, the pigments are added while stirring.

[0225] The resulting mixture is poured hot into the previously prepared lipstick mold heated to 42°C and then cooled to 4°C. Finally, the com- position and condition the sticks. Evaluation of compositions: Stability:

[0226] The stability of the compositions is evaluated by keeping the composition for 72 hours at room temperature and observing whether there is exudation of one or more oils. Hardness:

[0227] Hardness is measured according to the protocol defined previously in the description. No transfer:

[0228] Lip makeup is applied by making two passes.

[0229] We wait 1 hour without eating or drinking anything and we press our lips on a sheet of white photocopier paper with a weight of 80g / m2 (kiss test).

[0230] The color deposited on the paper is visually assessed.

[0231] The color deposited on the paper could also be measured using a CIE Lab colorimeter. Gloss measurement:

[0232] Gloss is measured by evaluating the reflections of the deposit on a support. Gloss measurement is carried out using a BYK Gardner Micro tri Gloss glossmeter at 3 angles: 20°, 60° and 85°. The reflected light index on the product is calculated in gloss units (GU). To do this, the formulation is spread onto an Erichsen contrast card in sufficient quantity to obtain a film thickness of 100 µm using a spreader. The gloss measurement is taken on the white part of the card 1 hour after spreading. Tights measurement:

[0233] A sufficient quantity of the composition is taken and then crushed in a stainless steel container 100 microns deep. The composition is then leveled before taking the measurement. The containers are left to dry at room temperature for 1 hour. The apparatus used is a TAXT2i texture analyzer. The gripper, mounted on the device, grasps an AU4G cylinder of 6 mm in diameter, to the end of which is glued a point of smooth beige material imitating skin, of the same diameter and 2 mm thick. Between each measurement, the tip is cleaned with ethanol. Measurements are never taken at the same location on the sample.

[0234] The compression test parameters with hold times are given below:

[0235] [Tables2] Approach velocity (or pre-velocity) 1 mm / s Velocity (from contact detection) 0.1 mm / s Force (and corresponding pressure) 0.283 N (i.e., 0.01 MPa) Contact time 3 seconds Withdrawal velocity (or post-velocity) 0.1 mm / s

[0236] Results: The resulting composition is stable. Its application is easy, with good sliding characteristics, non-retarding, allowing for a precise, thin, intense, covering, non-sticky and non-migrating deposit. The resulting deposit is comfortable and remains so over time, without any sensation of dryness or tightness. The coating is glossy with good retention of that gloss, with good resistance to transfer. EXAMPLE 2

[0237] The following compositions are prepared, the ingredients and their respective contents of which are listed in the table below (contents are expressed as % by weight of raw material, unless otherwise indicated):

[0238] [Tables3] Ingrédients (nom INCI ou nom chimique) Composition 2 Hydrogenated Polyisobutene (Parleam ; Nippon Oi & Fat) 10,0 C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate (Benzoate de C12 / C15 (DUB B1215) ; Stearinerie Dubois) 15,0 VP / Eicosene Copolymer (Antaron V 220F; Ashland) 5,0 PEG-45 / Dodecyl Glycol Copolymer (Elfacos ST 9 ; Akzo Nobel) 2,0 Polyethylene (Performalene 500-L Polyethylene ; NuCera Solutions) 2,4 Trimethylsiloxyphenyl Dimethicone (Belsil PDM 1000 ; Wacker) 30,0 Methyl Méthacrylate Crosspolymer (Covabead LH 85. Sensient) 1,0 Mélange de Paraffin, Microcrystalline Wax, Synthetic Wax (Paracera 30540 ; Paramelt) 6,5 Red 7 (and) Isopropyl Titanium Triisostearate (and) Triethoxysi-lylethyl Polydimethylsiloxyethyl Dimethicone (RED 7CA C-TTB2; Kobo) 2,2 Yellow 6 Lake (and) Isopropyl Titanium Triisostearate (and) Trie-thoxysilylethyl Polydimethylsiloxyethyl Dimethicone (YELLOW 6AL C-TTB2; Kobo) 8,0 Ethylcellulose (Aqualon EC N7 Pharm ; Ashland) 4,0 Octyldodecanol qsp 100% ratio 0,96

[0239] Preparation of compositions: Ethylcellulose is dispersed in a portion of the octyldodecanol and C12-C15 alkylbenzoate, at 105°C, under Rayneri stirring (sufficient stirring speed to create a vortex). Once the ethylcellulose is solubilized, the remaining octyldodecanol and C12-C15 alkylbenzoate, VP / Eicosene Copolymer, PEG-45 / Dodecyl Glycol Copolymer and waxes are added under the same temperature and stirring conditions. After homogenization, phenylated silicone is added at 105°C under Rayneri stirring for at least 15 minutes. Finally, hydrogenated polyisobutene is added under stirring at 105°C. Once the mixture is homogenized, the pigments and the Methyl Methacrylate Crosspolymer filler are added while stirring. The resulting mixture is poured hot into the lipstick mold, which has been preheated to 42°C, and then cooled to 4°C. Finally, the mixture is unmolded and the lipsticks are packaged.

[0240] Results: The resulting composition is stable. Its application is easy, with good sliding characteristics, non-retarding, allowing for a precise, thin, intense, covering, non-sticky and non-migrating deposit. The resulting deposit is comfortable and remains so over time, without any sensation of dryness or tightness. The coating is glossy with good retention of that gloss, with good resistance to transfer. EXAMPLE 3

[0241] The following compositions are prepared, the ingredients and their respective contents of which are listed in the table below (contents are expressed as % by weight of raw material, unless otherwise indicated):

[0242] [Tableaux4] Ingrédients (nom INCI ou nom chimique) Composition 3 Hydrogenated Polyisobutene (Parleam ; Nippon Oi & Fat) 10,0 C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate (Benzoate de C12 / C15 (DUB B1215) ; Stearinerie Dubois) 15,0 Trihydroxystearin (Thixcin R ; Elementis) 0,5 VP / Eicosene Copolymer (Antaron V 220F; Ashland) 5,0 PEG-45 / Dodecyl Glycol Copolymer (Elfacos ST 9 ; Akzo Nobel) 2,0 Polyethylene (Performalene 500-L Polyethylene ; NuCera Solutions) 2,7 Trimethylsiloxyphenyl Dimethicone (Belsil PDM 1000 ; Wacker) 30,0 METHYL METHACRYLATE CROSSPOLYMER 1,0 Mélange de Paraffin, Microcrystalline Wax, Synthetic Wax (Paracera 30540 ; Paramelt 7,2 Red 7 (and) Isopropyl Titanium Triisostearate (and) Triethoxysi-lylethyl Polydimethylsiloxyethyl Dimethicone (RED 7CA C-TTB2; Kobo) 6,7 Yellow 6 Lake (and) Isopropyl Titanium Triisostearate (and) Trie-thoxysilylethyl Polydimethylsiloxyethyl Dimethicone (YELLOW 6AL C-TTB2;Kobo) 1.3 Titanium Dioxide (and) Alumina (and) Isopropyl Titanium Triisostearate (and) Triethoxysilylethyl Polydimethylsiloxyethyl Dimethicone (TTO-TTB7; Kobo) 3.6 Ethylcellulose (Aqualon EC N7 Pharm; Ashland) 4.0 Octyldodecanol qsp 100% ratio 0.86;

[0243] Preparation of compositions: Ethylcellulose is dispersed in a portion of the octyldodecanol and C12-C15 alkylbenzoate, at 105°C, under Rayneri stirring (sufficient stirring speed to create a vortex). Once the ethylcellulose is solubilized, the remaining octyldodecanol and C12-C15 alkylbenzoate, VP / Eicosene Copolymer, PEG-45 / Dodecyl Glycol Copolymer and waxes are added under the same temperature and stirring conditions. After homogenization, phenylated silicone is added at 105°C under Rayneri stirring for at least 15 minutes. Finally, hydrogenated polyisobutene is added under stirring at 105°C. Once the mixture is homogenized, the pigments are added while stirring. The resulting mixture is poured hot into the lipstick mold, which has been preheated to 42°C, and then cooled to 4°C. Finally, the mixture is unmolded and the lipsticks are packaged.

[0244] Results: The resulting composition is stable. Its application is easy, with good sliding characteristics, non-retarding, allowing for a precise, thin, intense, covering, non-sticky and non-migrating deposit. The resulting deposit is comfortable and remains so over time, without any sensation of dryness or tightness. The coating is glossy with good retention of that gloss, with good resistance to transfer. EXAMPLE 4

[0245] The following compositions are prepared, the ingredients and their respective contents of which are listed in the table below (contents are expressed as % by weight of raw material, unless otherwise indicated):

[0246] [Tables5] Ingrédients (nom INCI ou nom chimique) Composition 4 C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate (Benzoate de C12 / C15 (DUB B1215) ; Stearinerie Dubois) 15,0 VP / Eicosene Copolymer (Antaron V 220F; Ashland) 5,0 PEG-45 / Dodecyl Glycol Copolymer (Elfacos ST 9 ; Akzo Nobel) 2,0 Polyethylene (Performalene 500-L Polyethylene ; NuCera Solutions) 2,7 Isohexadecane 10,0 Trimethylsiloxyphenyl Dimethicone (Belsil PDM 1000 ; Wacker) 30,0 Mélange de Paraffin, Microcrystalline Wax, Synthetic Wax (Paracera 30540 ; Paramelt) 7,2 Red 7 (and) Isopropyl Titanium Triisostearate (and) Triethoxysi-lylethyl Polydimethylsiloxyethyl Dimethicone (RED 7CA C-TTB2; Kobo) 6,7 Yellow 6 Lake (and) Isopropyl Titanium Triisostearate (and) Trie-thoxysilylethyl Polydimethylsiloxyethyl Dimethicone (YELLOW 6AL C-TTB2; Kobo) 1,30 Titanium Dioxide (and) Alumina (and) Isopropyl Titanium Triisostearate (and) Triethoxysilylethyl Polydimethylsiloxyethyl Dimethicone (TTO-TTB7 ; Kobo) 3.6 Ethylcellulose (Aqualon EC N7 Pharm ; Ashland) 4,0 ratio 0,92

[0247] Preparation of compositions: Ethylcellulose is dispersed in a portion of the octyldodecanol and C12-C15 alkylbenzoate, at 105°C, under Rayneri stirring (sufficient stirring speed to create a vortex). Once the ethylcellulose is solubilized, the remaining octyldodecanol and C12-C15 alkylbenzoate, VP / Eicosene Copolymer, PEG-45 / Dodecyl Glycol Copolymer and waxes are added under the same temperature and stirring conditions. After homogenization, phenylated silicone is added at 105°C under Rayneri stirring for at least 15 minutes. Finally, isohexadecane is added under stirring at 105°C. Once the mixture is homogenized, the pigments are added while stirring. The resulting mixture is poured hot into the lipstick mold, which has been preheated to 42°C, and then cooled to 4°C. Finally, the mixture is unmolded and the lipsticks are packaged.

[0248] Results: The resulting composition is stable. Its application is easy, with good sliding characteristics, non-retarding, allowing for a precise, thin, intense, covering, non-sticky and non-migrating deposit. The resulting deposit is comfortable and remains so over time, without any sensation of dryness or tightness. The coating is glossy with good retention of that gloss, with good resistance to transfer. EXAMPLE 5

[0249] The following compositions are prepared, the ingredients and their respective contents of which are listed in the table below (contents are expressed as % by weight of raw material, unless otherwise indicated):

[0250] [Tableauxô] Ingrédients (nom INCI ou nom chimique) Composition 5 C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate (Benzoate de C12 / C15 (DUB B1215) ; Stearinerie Dubois) 15,0 VP / Eicosene Copolymer (Antaron V 220F; Ashland) 5,0 PEG-45 / Dodecyl Glycol Copolymer (Elfacos ST 9 ; Akzo Nobel) 2,0 Polyethylene (Performalene 500-L Polyethylene ; NuCera Solutions) 3,0 Isohexadecane 10,0 Trimethylsiloxyphenyl Dimethicone (Belsil PDM 1000 ; Wacker) 30,0 Mélange de Paraffin, Microcrystalline Wax, Synthetic Wax (Paracera 30540 ; Paramelt) 8,0 Red 7 (and) Isopropyl Titanium Triisostearate (and) Triethoxysi-lylethyl Polydimethylsiloxyethyl Dimethicone (RED 7CA C-TTB2; Kobo) 2,2 Yellow 6 Lake (and) Isopropyl Titanium Triisostearate (and) Trie-thoxysilylethyl Polydimethylsiloxyethyl Dimethicone (YELLOW 6AL C-TTB2; Kobo) 8,0 Ethylcellulose (Aqualon EC N7 Pharm ; Ashland) 4,0 ratio 0,93 [0251 ] Préparation des compositions : Ethylcellulose is dispersed in a portion of the octyldodecanol and C12-C15 alkylbenzoate, at 105°C, under Rayneri stirring (sufficient stirring speed to create a vortex). Once the ethylcellulose is solubilized, the remaining octyldodecanol and C12-C15 alkylbenzoate, VP / Eicosene Copolymer, PEG-45 / Dodecyl Glycol Copolymer and waxes are added under the same temperature and stirring conditions. After homogenization, phenylated silicone is added at 105°C under Rayneri stirring for at least 15 minutes. Finally, isohexadecane is added under stirring at 105°C. Once the mixture is homogenized, the pigments are added while stirring. The resulting mixture is poured hot into the lipstick mold, which has been preheated to 42°C, and then cooled to 4°C. Finally, the mixture is unmolded and the lipsticks are packaged.

[0252] Results: The resulting composition is stable. Its application is easy, with good sliding characteristics, non-retarding, allowing for a precise, thin, intense, covering, non-sticky and non-migrating deposit. The resulting deposit is comfortable and remains so over time, without any sensation of dryness or tightness. The coating is glossy with good retention of that gloss, with good resistance to transfer.

Claims

Demands

1. A solid cosmetic makeup composition of human keratinous materials, in particular of the skin and lips, comprising * at least ethylcellulose, * at least one first oil selected from benzoic acid and monoalcohol esters, preferably saturated, in C8-C20, preferably in C8-C18, and mixtures thereof, * at least one second non-volatile polar hydrocarbon oil selected from alcohols in C10-C26 and possibly from esters different from the first oil(s), * at least one third oil selected from non-volatile phenylated silicones comprising at least one dimethicone fragment, * possibly at least one fourth non-volatile silicone oil, non-phenylated or phenylated and devoid of a dimethicone fragment, * the oil contents being such that the weight ratio of the first, second and, where appropriate, fourth oil(s) / third oil(s) is less than or equal to 1;* the composition comprising less than 2% by weight of water, relative to the weight of the composition.;

2. Composition according to the preceding claim, characterized in that the ethylcellulose content is between 1 and 10% by weight, more particularly from 2 to 6% by weight, relative to the weight of the composition.

3. Composition according to the preceding claim, characterized in that the first oil is selected from mono esters of benzoic acid selected from Cl2-15 alkyl benzoate, C16-C17 alkyl benzoate, stearyl benzoate, isostearyl benzoate, ethylhexyl benzoate and octyldodecyl benzoate, as well as mixtures thereof and preferably C12-15 alkyl benzoate.

4. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the primary oil content(s) is from 8 to 30% by weight, more particularly from 10 to 25% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

5. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the second non-volatile hydrocarbon oil is selected from monohydroxylated, preferably saturated, C10-C26 alcohols, selected from lauric, isostearyl, oleic, and other alcohols. 2-butyloctanol, 2-undecyl pentadecanol, 2-hexyldecyl alcohol, isocetyl alcohol, octyldodecanol and mixtures thereof, and preferably octyldodecanol.

6. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the second non-volatile hydrocarbon oil may also comprise at least one ester different from the first oil(s), selected from mono- or di-esters, linear or branched, saturated, unsaturated or aromatic, comprising more particularly from 12 to 80 carbon atoms, and optionally one or two ether groups; linear or branched triesters, saturated, unsaturated or aromatic, comprising up to 80 carbon atoms, optionally comprising one to three ether groups; tetraesters comprising in particular from 35 to 80 carbon atoms, optionally comprising one to three ether groups; polyesters obtained by condensation of dimer and / or trimer of unsaturated fatty acid and diol; esters of diol or polyol dimer and mono- and / or dicarboxylic acid; vegetable oils, as well as mixtures thereof.

7. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the content of second oil(s) varies from 8 to 20% by weight, more particularly from 9 to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

8. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the content of alcohols in Cl0-C26 varies from 8 to 20% by weight, more particularly from 9 to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

9. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the third phenylated silicone non-volatile oil(s) comprising at least one dimethicone group is / are selected from Trimethylsiloxyphenyl Dimethicone, Diphenyl Dimethicone, Tetramethyl Tetraphenyl Trisiloxane and mixtures thereof, preferably Trimethylsiloxyphenyl Dimethicone.

10. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the content of third(s) non-volatile phenylated silicone oil(s) represents 20 to 40% by weight, preferably 25 to 35% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

11. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it optionally comprises at least one fourth non-volatile silicone oil, phenylated without a dimethicone group or non-phenylated, in particular at least one oil selected from Dimethicone, Phenyltrimethicone, Trimethyl Pentaphenyl Trisiloxane, Trimethyl Pentaphenyl Trisiloxane, and mixtures thereof.

12. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the content of fourth oil(s), if the composition includes any, is less than or equal to 5% by weight, more particularly less than or equal to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

13. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the oil content is such that the weight ratio of the first, second and where applicable fourth oil(s) / third oil(s) is between 0.5 and 1, more particularly between 0.7 and 1.

14. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it comprises at least one non-polar, non-volatile hydrocarbon oil, in particular selected from paraffin oil; squalane; isoeicosane; mixtures of linear, saturated hydrocarbons, more particularly C15-C28; polybutenes, hydrogenated or not; polyisobutenes, hydrogenated or not; polydecenes, hydrogenated or not, and mixtures thereof.

15. Composition according to the preceding claim, characterized in that the content of non-polar non-volatile hydrocarbon oil(s) represents from 0.1 to 15% by weight, more particularly from 1 to 12% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

16. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it comprises at least one hydrocarbon volatile oil, silicone oil, or combinations thereof, preferably selected from hydrocarbon volatile oils.

17. Composition according to the preceding claim, characterized in that the volatile oil(s) content represents from 0.1 to 15% by weight, more particularly from 1 to 12% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

18. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the composition comprises at least one wax, more particularly selected from hydrocarbon, polar or non-polar waxes,

19. Composition according to the preceding claim, characterized in that the wax is selected from non-polar waxes; polar hydrocarbon waxes such as waxes of animal or vegetable origin; alcohol waxes; and mixtures thereof; and preferably from non-polar hydrocarbon waxes, alone or in mixtures.

20. Composition according to the preceding claim, characterized in that the wax content varies from 1 to 20% by weight, preferably from 5 to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

21. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it comprises at least one paste-like compound at room temperature and atmospheric pressure, preferably hydrocarbon.

22. Composition according to the preceding claim, characterized in that the content of the paste compound varies from 0.5 to 15% by weight, preferably from 2 to 12% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

23. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it comprises less than 1% by weight, and more especially less than 0.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of composition.

24. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it comprises at least one colouring material, in particular selected from pigments, mother-of-pearls, and mixtures thereof.

25. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it optionally comprises at least one mineral thickener selected from clays, possibly modified, silicas, possibly modified, or mixtures thereof; more particularly at a content ranging from 0.1 to 10% by weight, preferably 0.2 to 5% by weight, expressed as active matter, relative to the total weight of the composition.

26. A method of makeup and / or lip care consisting of applying the composition according to any one of the preceding claims.