A process for treating keratinous materials using at least one polysaccharide compound with acetoacetate functions.

Abstract

Process for treating keratinous materials employing at least one polysaccharide compound with acetoacetate functional groups. The present invention relates to a process for treating keratinous materials, comprising applying to said keratinous materials, in one or more successive steps, at least i) one or more compounds of formula (I) as well as their optical and geometric isomers, their acid or base salts, and / or solvates, such as hydrates, or a composition containing them: (I) formula (I) in which X, R1, R2, Ra, Rb, and n are as defined in the description, optionally ii) at least one crosslinking agent, iii) optionally water. Figure for the abstract: None

Description

Title of the invention: A process for treating keratinous materials using at least one polysaccharide compound with acetoacetate functions technical field

[0001] The present invention relates more particularly to the cosmetic field of keratin materials, and in particular to that of the care and / or makeup of the skin and / or lips and / or eyelashes and / or eyebrows, and that of the care, styling and / or coloring of keratin fibers and preferably of hair.

[0002] It aims to propose in particular new treatment processes, especially cosmetic, including the application on keratinous materials of an oligosaccharide / polysaccharide compound with acetoacetate functions, and possibly a crosslinking agent, which are particularly interesting with regard to their technical performance, particularly in terms of the durability of the deposits they allow to be obtained, and the sensory sensations they provide to the user. Previous technique

[0003] Cosmetic products classically require the implementation of one or more film-forming polymers in order to obtain a quality deposit of these products on keratinous materials, and in particular giving satisfaction to the expectations detailed below.

[0004] Thus, in the field of skin and / or lip makeup, it is particularly expected that the deposit formed will not transfer upon contact with fingers or clothing.

[0005] It must also exhibit good resistance to water, particularly rain or showering, as well as perspiration and sebum, and even to food fats, especially cooking oils when this deposit forms on the lips. Furthermore, this deposit must be comfortable. Depending on the application or consumer demand, deposits are also sought for which the appearance can be varied from glossy to matte.

[0006] For this purpose, it is used in makeup products, such as mascaras, eyeliners, eyeshadows or lipsticks, and in hair application products, and more particularly in their organic and especially oily phases, as dispersions of nanometric polymer particles, as a film-forming agent.

[0007] However, the compositions of the prior art show a durability over time, in particular of the hairstyle, which is not always satisfactory.

[0008] There is also significant consumer demand for the use of more natural compositions, implementing compounds of natural origin possibly modified.

[0009] Furthermore, in the field of hair care, a new range of products called hair makeup or "Hair Make-up" has recently been developed. These products guarantee temporary hair coloring that lasts after 1 to 3 shampoos.

[0010] They therefore constitute an alternative, particularly attractive for consumers, to permanent coloring, provided of course that the color effect is effectively guaranteed to withstand contact with water and a few shampoos.

[0011] This requirement is also met in particular through the implementation of effective film-forming agents.

[0012] Film-forming compositions, particularly cosmetic ones, are also known to comprise at least one oily phase and at least one copolymer obtained by the polymerization of ethylenic monomers, some of which bear specific groups (see, for example, WO 2022 / 136104). Such compositions, however, require the presence of an oily phase, which may limit their application. Furthermore, such compositions do not necessarily meet the demand for naturalness expressed by some consumers.

[0013] Thus, document FR 2 741 530 proposes, for this purpose, the use of a dispersion of film-forming polymer particles comprising at least one acid function and at least one pigment dispersed in the continuous phase of said dispersion for the temporary coloring of keratin fibers. However, the colors obtained by this coloring method have the disadvantage of being easily washed off by shampooing.

[0014] Furthermore, document FR 2 907 678 proposes to apply colored coatings to hair using a composition comprising a poly-siloxane / polyurea block copolymer and a pigment. However, with such a composition, the resulting coatings are not always very homogeneous, and the individualization of the hair is not always very good.

[0015] It is also known from patent EP 1,392,222 to use a cosmetic composition for the care and / or treatment of keratinous materials comprising a supramolecular polymer having a polymeric backbone and at least two groups capable of forming at least three hydrogen bonds, and from patent EP 1,435,900 to use a hair composition comprising a supramolecular polymer having a polymeric backbone and at least two groups capable of forming at least three hydrogen bonds and a surfactant or a hair conditioning agent. However, with these two compositional alternatives, the per The results obtained regarding the hold of the hairstyle over time or in water remain insufficient.

[0016] It is also known from WO 2020 / 026143 to provide methods for preparing compositions comprising modified polysaccharides. Furthermore, US patent 2006 / 0079599 describes a medical-grade polymer-based tissue adhesive containing polyvinyl alcohol polymers with ACACs groups associated with polyamines in the form of a hydrogel. US 3342806 and US 3361585 describe acetoacetylated starch compounds.

[0017] In general, the processes and treatments described above do not allow access to deposits, both on keratin fibers and on skin and lips, which satisfy all the aforementioned requirements, namely very good resistance to water, in particular to shampoos for hair, and / or to oils, especially for lips, which are also comfortable for users to wear, which allow adjustment of shine or matte or invisibility qualities and which, in the case of hair use, provide very satisfactory hold of styling or colonic persistence while meeting the need for naturalness expressed by some consumers and / or formulations where the presence of an oily phase is not desired. Description of the invention

[0018] There therefore remains a need for a treatment process, particularly cosmetic, intended for application on the skin which allows obtaining a non-sticky deposit, which transfers little or not at all, shiny or matte, comfortable, long-lasting and whose implementation does not necessarily require the presence of an oily phase, while being of natural origin.

[0019] There also remains a need for a treatment process, particularly cosmetic, to obtain deposits that are resistant to water and grease, especially sebum.

[0020] There also remains a need for a treatment process, particularly cosmetic, to provide deposits with qualities of shine, and / or matte finish, and / or invisibility.

[0021] There also remains a need for a treatment process, particularly cosmetic, coloring and intended for hair application, which provides deposits with good resistance to water and shampoos to guarantee color retention over time comparable to direct coloring.

[0022] There is also a need for a treatment process, in particular cosmetic, in particular non-coloring, intended for hair application which provides styling properties, in particular curl retention, resistant to water.

[0023] The present invention is specifically aimed at meeting all or part of these needs. Summary of the invention

[0024] These problems are solved by implementing a process for treating keratinous materials, comprising applying to said keratinous materials, in one or more successive steps, at least:

[0025] i) one or more compounds of formula (I) as well as their optical, geometric, acid or base salts, and / or solvates, such as hydrates, or a composition containing them:

[0026] [Chem.l]

[0027] (I)

[0028] formula (I) in which:

[0029] - R1 represents a multivalent, linear or cyclic polysaccharide radical, of linear preference, consisting of at least 3 monosaccharide units, each comprising at least 5 carbon atoms, particularly between 7 and 9 carbon atoms, preferably at least 6 carbon atoms, more particularly between 6 and 8 carbon atoms, and more preferably 6 carbon atoms, and of which one or more of the hydroxy (-OH), carbonyl (-C(O)), carboxy (-C(O)-OH) or amino -NH2 groups, of all or part of at least one of the monosaccharide units, are optionally substituted by one or more R3 groups;

[0030] - R2 represents a monovalent hydrocarbon radical in C1 to C6, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, preferably a (Ci-C4)alkyl group, more preferably methyl;

[0031] - R3, identical or different, represents a group chosen from:

[0032] 1) sulfonate -SO3, Cat+,

[0033] 2) (Ci-C22)alkyl, linear or branched, and

[0034] 3) (Ci-C22)alkylcarbonyl, linear or branched,

[0035] the (Ci-C22)alkyl group being optionally interrupted by one or more heteroatoms or groups X as defined below; and / or

[0036] the (CrC22)alkyl group being optionally substituted by one or more groups selected from: a) hydroxyl (-OH); b) sulfonate -SO3, Cat+; c) sulfate -O-SO3, Cat+; d) -(CH2-CH2-O)P-R4; e) -O-(CH2-CH2-O)P-R4; f) -C(O)-R4; g) -C(O)-O-R4; h) -OC(O)-R4; i) -C(O)-N(R')-R4; j) -N(R')-C(O)-R4; k) ammonium -N+R' '3; An and 1) their mixtures;

[0037] - R4 represents a hydrogen atom, a linear or branched (Ci-C8)alkyl group preference R4 represents a hydrogen atom or a linear or branched (Ci-C6)alkyl group, more preferably a linear or branched (Ci-C4)alkyl group, in particular methyl;

[0038] - Ra and Rb, whether identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or a group (Ci-C4)alkyl, preferably a hydrogen atom;

[0039] - X is a heteroatom or group chosen from -O-, -S-, -N(R')-, and their com combinations such as -C(O)-O-, -OC(O)-, -C(O)-N(R')-, -N(R')-C(O)-, -N(R')-C(O)-O-, -N(R')-C(O)-N(R')-, preferably X represents -O-;

[0040] - R', identical or different, represents a hydrogen atom, a (Ci-C6) group )alkyl, linear or branched, possibly substituted by at least one hydroxy (OH) group, preferably R' represents a hydrogen atom or an (CrC4)alkyl group, in particular methyl, more preferably R' represents a hydrogen atom;

[0041] - R”, identical or different, represents a hydrogen atom or a group (Ci-C6 )alkyl, linear or branched, preferably a (Ci-C4)alkyl group, in particular methyl;

[0042] - n denotes an integer from 2 to 3000, in particular from 5 to 2500, plus part particularly from 10 to 2300, preferably from 15 to 1000, preferably from 20 to 500, and more preferably from 25 to 200;

[0043] - p denotes an integer from 0 to 3;

[0044] - An represents an anionic counter ion;

[0045] - Cat+ represents a cationic counter ion;

[0046] ii) possibly at least one crosslinking agent; and

[0047] iii) optionally water, preferably water, or optionally water mixed with a polar organic solvent, preferably selected from (C2-C6)alkanols, more preferably ethanol.

[0048] According to a preferred embodiment, the treatment process according to the invention includes the application of at least iii) water.

[0049] According to a preferred embodiment, the treatment process according to the invention further comprises the application of at least iv) a cosmetic active ingredient, on said keratinous materials.

[0050] According to a preferred embodiment, the process according to the invention comprises the application i) of at least one compound of formula (I), its optical, geometric isomers, its acid or base salts, and / or its solvates, such as hydrates, or of a composition containing them, optionally the application ii) of at least one crosslinking agent, iii) optionally water and the application iv) of at least one cosmetic active ingredient, on said keratinous materials.

[0051] According to one embodiment, the process includes the application of i), optionally ii) and optionally iv) to moist or wet keratinous materials.

[0052] The inventors have thus surprisingly observed that applying ingredients i), and optionally ii), iii), and iv), to keratinous materials produces coatings on the skin that are highly resistant to external aggressions such as water, oils (particularly cooking oils), sweat, and / or sebum, and therefore have excellent durability. Advantageously, the coatings obtained using the processes according to the invention are also very comfortable. They are non-sticky and non-transferable. Applying ingredients i), and optionally ii), iii), and iv), to keratinous materials also produces coatings on keratinous fibers that are highly resistant to shampoos and water.

[0053] The application on keratinous materials of ingredients i), and possibly ii), iii) and iv), also makes it possible to obtain shiny or matte deposits depending on the nature of ingredients i) used.

[0054] DEFINITIONS

[0055] For the purposes of the present invention, and unless otherwise indicated:

[0056] - by "multivalent" we mean a radical that is at least divalent; the valence of the radical Ri is equal to n as defined previously, the radical Ri thus being "n-valent". As an example, when n is equal to 3, the radical Ri is trivalent;

[0057] - For the purposes of this invention, "keratinous materials" means to designate including the lips, skin, nails and keratin fibers, in particular eyelashes, eyebrows and hair, preferably the lips and / or hair.

[0058] - By "cosmetic active ingredient": we mean an organic or organosilicon compound, or a A mineral compound that can be incorporated into a cosmetic composition to have an effect on keratinous materials, whether this effect is immediate or achieved through repeated applications. Examples of cosmetic active ingredients include colored or non-colored, fluorescent or non-fluorescent compounds such as optical brighteners, or UVA and / or UVB filters; anti-aging actives or those intended to benefit the skin, such as those acting on the skin barrier function, deodorant actives, antiperspirant actives, desquamating actives, antioxidant actives, moisturizing actives, sebum-regulating actives, actives intended to combat the effects of pollution, antimicrobial or bactericidal actives, perfumes, and coloring materials such as direct dyes or pigments, preferably pigments.

[0059] Preferably, the cosmetic actives are chosen from a) colouring materials chosen from pigments, direct colorants, and their mixtures, b) conditioning actives for keratinous materials, preferably of the skin, c) UV filters, and d) their mixtures.

[0060] - For the purposes of this invention, "fatty body" means a compound organic insoluble in water at ordinary temperature (25 °C) and atmospheric pressure (760 mm Hg) (solubility less than 5%, and preferably 1%, even more preferably 0.1%); in addition, fats are soluble in organic solvents under the same conditions of temperature and pressure, such as halogenated solvents like chloroform, dichloromethane, inferior alcohols like ethanol or aromatic solvents like benzene or toluene.

[0061] - By "alkyl" we mean a saturated hydrocarbon radical, linear or branched.

[0062] - By "a (Cx-Cy)alkyl group" is meant an alkyl radical comprising x to y carbon atoms.

[0063] - By "(hetero)aryl" we mean the aryl or heteroaryl groups.

[0064] - By "(hetero)cycloalkyl" we mean cycloalkyl or heterocycloalkyl groups.

[0065] - The "aryl" or "heteroaryl" radicals or the aryl or heteroaryl part of a radicals can be substituted by at least one substituent attached to a carbon atom, chosen from:

[0066] - a (poly)(hydroxy)alkyl radical in Ci-C6, preferably in CrC4;

[0067] - a halogen atom such as chlorine, fluorine or bromine;

[0068] - a hydroxy group;

[0069] - a C1-C2 alkoxy radical; a C2-C4 (poly)-hydroxyalkoxy radical;

[0070] - an amino radical;

[0071] - an amino radical substituted by one or two alkyl radicals, identical or different, in Ci-C6, Ci-C6, preferably in CrC4;

[0072] - an acylamino radical (-N(R)-C(O)-R') in which the radical R is an atom of hydrogen,

[0073] - an alkyl radical in CrC4 and the radical R' is an alkyl radical in CrC4; a radical carbamoyl ((R)2N-C(O)-) in which the R radicals, identical or not, represent a hydrogen atom, an alkyl radical in CrC4;

[0074] - an alkylsulfonylamino radical (R'-S(O)2-N(R)-) in which the radical R represents a hydrogen atom or an alkyl radical in CrC4 and the radical R' represents an alkyl radical in CrC4 or a phenyl radical;

[0075] - an aminosulfonyl radical ((R)2N-S(O)2-) in which the R radicals, identical or no, they represent a hydrogen atom, an alkyl radical in CrC4;

[0076] - a carboxylic radical in acidic or sal form (preferably with a metal) alkaline or an ammonium, substituted or not);

[0077] - a cyano group (CN);

[0078] - a polyhalogeno(Ci-C4)alkyl group, preferably trifluoromethyl (CF3).

[0079] - The cyclic or heterocyclic part of a non-aromatic radical can be substituted by at least one substituent attached to a carbon atom chosen from the following groups:

[0080] - hydroxy,

[0081] - C2-C4 alkoxy, (poly)hydroxyalkoxy C2-C4,

[0082] - alkylcarbonylamino ((RC(O)-N(R')-) in which the radical R' is an atom of hydrogen, an alkyl radical in CrC4 and the radical R is an alkyl radical in Ci-C2, amino substituted by one or two identical or different alkyl groups in CrC4;

[0083] - alkylcarbonyloxy ((RC(O)-O-) in which the radical R is an alkyl radical in Ci - C4, amino substituted by one or two identical or different alkyl groups in Ci-C4;

[0084] - alkcoxycarbonyl ((ROC(O)-) in which the radical R is an alkyl radical in Ci- C4, amino substituted by one or two identical or different alkyl groups in Ci-C4;

[0085] - A cyclic radical, heterocyclic radical, or a non-aromatic part of a radical aryl or heteroaryl, can also be substituted by one or more oxo groups.

[0086] - A hydrocarbon chain is unsaturated when it comprises one or more double bonds and / or one or more triple bonds, which may or may not be conjugated.

[0087] - An "aryl" radical represents a mono- or polycyclic hy group drocarbon, condensed or not, comprising from 6 to 14 carbon atoms, and of which at least one ring is aromatic; preferably the aryl radical is a phenyl, biphenyl, naphthyl, indenyl, anthracenyl, or tetrahydronaphthyl.

[0088] - A "heteroaryl" radical represents a mono- or polycyclic group, condensed or not, comprising 5 to 14 links, 1 to 6 heteroatoms chosen from nitrogen, oxygen, sulfur and selenium atoms, and of which at least one ring is aromatic; Preferably a heteroaryl radical is chosen from acridinyl, benzimidazolyl, benzobistriazolyl, benzopyrazolyl, benzopyridazinyl, benzoquinolyl, benzothiazolyl, benzotriazolyl, benzoxazolyl, pyridinyl, tetrazolyl, dihydrothiazolyl, imidazopyridinyl, imidazolyl, indolyl, isoquinolyl, naphthoimidazolyl, naphthooxazolyl, naphthopyrazolyl, oxadiazolyl, oxazolyl, oxazolopyridyl, phenazinyl, phenoxazolyl, pyrazinyl, pyrazolyl, pyrilyl, pyrazoyltriazyl, pyridyl, pyridinoimidazolyl, pyrrolyl, quinolyl, tetrazolyl, thiadiazolyl, thiazolyl, thiazolopyridinyl, thiazoylimidazolyl, thiopyrylyl, triazolyl, xanthylyl.

[0089] - A "cyclic" or "cycloalkyl" radical is a non-cyclic hydrocarbon radical aromatic, mono- or polycyclic, condensed or non-condensed, containing from 5 to 14 carbon atoms, which may have from 1 to several unsaturations, preferably cycloalkyl is a cyclohexyl group.

[0090] - A "heterocyclic" or "heterocycloalkyl" radical is a non-cyclic radical aromatic mono or polycyclic, condensed or non-condensed, containing 3 to 9 links, comprising 1 to 4 heteroatoms chosen from nitrogen, oxygen, sulfur and selenium atoms, preferably the heterocycloalkyl is chosen from epoxide, pi-perazinyl, piperidinyl, morpholinyl, or dithiolane.

[0091] - An "alkyl" radical is a saturated hydrocarbon radical, linear or branched, in par particular in Ci-C6, preferably in Ci-C4.

[0092] - An "alkoxy" radical is an alkyl-oxy radical in which the alkyl radical is a hydrocarbon radical, linear or branched, in Ci-C6 preferentially in Ci-C4.

[0093] - A "(poly)(hydroxy)alkyl" radical designates a Ci-C6 alkyl radical, of preferably in Ci-C4 possibly substituted by one or more hydroxy radicals, preferably substituted by 1 to 4 hydroxy groups, more particularly between 1 and 3.

[0094] - A "sugar" radical is a monosaccharide or disaccharide radical. Examples include as sugar radical: sucrose (or saccharose), glucose, galactose, ribose, fucose, maltose, fructose, mannose, arabinose, xylose or lactose.

[0095] - By "monosaccharide" is meant a monosaccharide sugar comprising at least 5 carbon atoms of formula CX(H2O)X, with x an integer greater than or equal to 5, preferably x is greater than or equal to 6, in particular x is inclusively between 5 and 7, preferably x is equal to 6, they may be of D or L configuration, and of alpha or beta anomer, as well as their salts and solvates, such as hydrates.

[0096] - By "monosaccharide unit" is meant a mono, di or polyvalent radical mo nosaccharide.

[0097] - By "polyvalent radical", we mean a radical that is at least divalent, such as a radical divalent, trivalent or tetravalent, preferably divalent or trivalent.

[0098] - By "disaccharide" is meant a di-osidic sugar which is a compound made up of of two sugars linked together by O-glycosidic bonds, said compounds being made up of two monosaccharides (also called mono-glycosidics) as defined above, said monosaccharide units comprising at least 5 carbon atoms, preferably 6, particularly the monosaccharide units being linked together in 1,4 or 1,6 in anomer a (alpha) or [3 (beta), each glycosidic unit being able to be of L or D configuration, as well as its salts and solvates such as the hydrates of said monosaccharides; more specifically, these are polymers formed from two sugars (or monosaccharides) having the general formula: -[Cx(H2O)y)]2 - or -[(CH2O)x]2-, with x an integer greater than or equal to 5, preferably x is greater than or equal to 6, in particular x is inclusively between 5 and 7, preferably x is equal to 6, and y an integer that represents x - 1.

[0099] - By "polysaccharide", we mean a polysaccharide radical which is a polymerconsisting of at least two sugars, identical or different from each other, preferably at least 3 sugars, linked together by O-glycosidic bonds, said polymers being made up of monosaccharide units (also called mono-glycosidic units) as defined above, said monosaccharide units each comprising at least 5 carbon atoms, particularly between 7 and 9 carbon atoms, preferably at least 6 carbon atoms, more particularly between 6 and 8 carbon atoms, and more preferably 6 carbon atoms, particularly the monosaccharide units are linked together in 1,4 or 1,6 in α (alpha) or β (beta) anomer, each glycosidic unit being able to be of L or D configuration, as well as its salts and solvates such as the hydrates of said monosaccharides;This refers more specifically to polymers formed of at least three sugars (or monosaccharides) having the general formula: -[Cx(H2O)y)]w- or -[(CH2O)X]W-, where x is an integer greater than or equal to 5, preferably greater than or equal to 6, in particular x is between 5 and 7 inclusive, preferably x is equal to 6, and y is an integer representing x - 1, and w is an integer greater than or equal to 2, particularly between 3 and 3000 inclusive, more particularly between 5 and 2500, preferably between 10 and 2300, particularly between 15 and 1000 inclusive, more particularly between 20 and 500, preferably between 25 and 200. These sugars may optionally carry one or more anionic radicals such as -C(O)-OH, -SO3H, -O-SO3H or their salts -C(O)O Cat+, -SO3 Cat+, -O-SO3 Cat+ with Cat+ as defined previously. ;

[0100] - By the groups "hydroxy (-OH), carbonyl (-C(O)), carboxy (-C(O)-OH) or amino NH2, are optionally substituted by one or more R3 groups; it is understood that the hydrogen atom of the group in question -OH, -C(O)-H, -C(O)-OH or -NH2 can be substituted by an R3 group to lead to -O-R3, -C(O)-R3, -C(O)-OR3, or -N(H)-R3; preferably when R3 represents a -SO3, Cat+ group then the substitution is made on a hydroxy group to lead to the -O-SO3, Cat+ group.

[0101] - By "linear polysaccharide radical" is meant a polysaccharide whose ex The terminates of these sugars are not linked together; examples of linear polysaccharide radicals include radicals derived from cellulose, starch, amylose, alginates, pectin, hyaluronic acid, dextran, inulin, guar gum, glucans, carrageenan, pullulan, and their derivatives; preferably pullulan and its derivatives such as myristoylpullulan.

[0102] - By "cyclic polysaccharide radical" is meant a polysaccharide whose ex The cyclic sugars are linked together by O-glycosidic bonds; examples of cyclic polysaccharide radicals include cyclodextrin radicals.

[0103] - By "anionic counterion" is meant an anion or anionic group associated with the cationic charge; more specifically, the anionic counter-ion is chosen from i) halides such as chloride, bromide; ii) nitrates; iii) the sulfonates, including the Ci-C6 alkylsulfonates: Alk-S(O)2O such as methylsulfonate or mesylate and ethylsulfonate; iv) arylsulfonates: Ar-S(O)2O such as benzenesulfonate and toluenesulfonate or tosylate; v) citrate; vi) succinate; vii) tartrate; viii) lactate; ix) alkyl sulfates: Alk-OS(O)O such as methylsulfate and ethylsulfate; x) aryl sulfates: Ar-OS(O)O such as benzenesulfate and toluenesulfate; xi) alkoxysulfates: Alk-OS(O)2O such as methoxysulfate and ethoxysulfate; xii) aryloxysulfates: Ar-OS(O)2O, xiii) phosphate; xiv) acetate; xv) triflate; and xvi) borates such as tetrafluoroborate, and mixtures thereof. The anionic counterion is chosen to ensure the electroneutrality of compounds of formula (I); when z cationic charges are to be neutralized, z anions with charge (-1) or z / 2 anions with charge (-2) can thus be used.

[0104] - By "cationic counterion" is meant a cation or a cationic group associated with the anionic charge; more specifically, the cationic counterion is preferably chosen from alkali or alkaline earth metal salts such as sodium, potassium, calcium salts and mixtures thereof. The cationic counterion(s) may also be organic, such as ammonium tri(Ci-C4)(alkyl)ammonium or trihydroxy(Ci-C4)alkylammonium.

[0105] It is understood that when the compound(s) of formula (I) comprise SO3 or -O-SO3 and ammonium -N+R”3 groups, the counter-ions Cat+ and An respectively are present or absent, to ensure the electroneutrality of the molecule (I).

[0106] Thus, for example, the cationic counter-ion is chosen so that it ensures the electroneutrality of the compounds of formula (I); and when z' anionic charges are to be neutralized, z' cations of charge (+1) or z' / 2 cations of charge (+2) can thus be implemented.

[0107] - The "solvates" represent the hydrates as well as the association with alcohols linear or branched C2-C6 also called (C2-C6)alkanols such as ethanol, isopropanol, n-propanol.

[0108] - By "UV-A filter" is meant a chromophore derived from a compound which filters (or absorbs) UV-A ultraviolet rays at a wavelength between 320 and 400 nm. We can distinguish between short UV-A filters (absorbing rays at a wavelength between 320 and 340 nm), and long UV-A filters (absorbing rays at a wavelength between 340 and 400 nm).

[0109] - By "UV-B filter" is meant a chromophore derived from a compound which filters (or absorbs) ultraviolet UV-B rays at a wavelength between 280 and 320 nm.

[0110] - The term "chromophore" means a radical derived from a colorless or colored compound capable of absorbing UV and / or visible radiation at a wavelength Xabs between 250 and 800 nm. Preferably, the chromophore is colored, i.e., it absorbs wavelengths in the visible range, i.e., preferably between 400 and 800 nm. Preferably, chromophores appear colored to the eye; particularly between 400 and 700 nm (Ullmann's Encyclopedia, 2005, Wiley-VcH, Verlag "Dyes, General Survey", § 2.1 Basic Principle of Color).

[0111] - By "anhydrous composition" it is understood that said composition contains a quantity less than 5% by weight of water, preferably less than 3% by weight of water, better less than 1% by weight of water, relative to the total weight of the composition in question, even more preferably the composition in question is free of water.

[0112] - The terms "coloring agent" and "coloring material" are equivalent.

[0113] Throughout the description, including the claims, the expression "comprising a" shall be understood as synonymous with "comprising at least one" or synonymous with "comprising one or more", unless otherwise specified.

[0114] - by "(co)polymer", we mean a homopolymer or a copolymer.

[0115] - by "homopolymer" is meant a polymer resulting from the repetition of poly units meric or monomers, of which said monomers are all identical, i.e. of the same chemical nature (for example -AAAA-...-AA-),

[0116] - by "copolymer" is meant a polymer resulting from the repetition of poly units meric or monomers, of which at least two repeating monomers are different, i.e. of different chemical natures (for example -ABAA-...-BA-, it being understood that A is different from B); preferably, the (co)polymer(s) of the invention are copolymers.

[0117] The expressions "between ... and ...", "includes from ... to ...", "made up of ... to ...", and "ranging from ... to ..." should be understood inclusive of bounds, unless otherwise specified.

[0118] It is understood that the treatment processes according to the invention, as well as the compositions implemented, are non-therapeutic. Detailed description

[0119] METHOD FOR TREATMENT OF KERATINIC MATERIALS

[0120] The first object of the invention is a one- or multi-step treatment process applied to keratinous materials, in particular keratin fibers or skin:

[0121] i) at least one compound of formula (I) as well as their optical, geometric isomers, their organic or mineral acid or base salts, and / or solvates, such as hydrates, as defined above and below, or a composition containing them;

[0122] ii) possibly at least one crosslinking agent, in particular as defined below;

[0123] iii) possibly water; and

[0124] iv) possibly at least one cosmetic active ingredient, in particular as defined above and below.

[0125] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the treatment process according to the invention involves the simultaneous application of ingredients i), possibly ii), possibly iii), and possibly iv).

[0126] According to another particular embodiment of the invention, the treatment process according to the invention comprises at least 2 steps in which ingredients i), ii), optionally iii), and optionally iv), are applied in separate and successive steps to the keratin materials, it being understood that cosmetic active ingredient(s) iv) may be found together with ingredient i) and / or with ingredient(s) ii) and / or with ingredient iii) when present.

[0127] According to a particular embodiment, ingredient(s) i) are applied to the keratin materials, then ingredient(s) ii) are applied to the keratin materials, if present, it being understood that ingredient iii), if present, may be applied with i) and / or with ii) and / or with iv), when iv) is present, and that ingredient(s) iv), when present, may be applied together with i) and / or ii) and / or iii), preferably with i) and / or ii).

[0128] According to another particular embodiment, ingredient(s) ii) are applied to the keratin materials, then ingredient(s) i) are applied to the keratin materials, it being understood that ingredient iii), when present, may be applied with i) and / or with ii) and / or with iv), when iv) is present, and that ingredient(s) iii), when present, may be applied together with i) and / or ii).

[0129] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the process for treating keratinous materials is a process, in particular cosmetic, for treating keratinous materials, in particular for the care and / or makeup of the skin, lips, eyelashes and / or eyebrows and / or for the care, styling and / or coloring of keratinous fibers, preferably hair.

[0130] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the process for treating keratinous materials is a cosmetic process for the care, styling and / or coloring of keratinous fibers, preferably hair.

[0131] According to another embodiment of the invention, the process for treating keratinous materials is a skin care process.

[0132] According to another embodiment of the invention, the process for treating keratinous materials is a process for applying makeup to the skin, lips, eyelashes, and eyebrows. According to this embodiment, the process comprises at least one cosmetic active ingredient selected from coloring materials, preferably pigments.

[0133] According to one aspect of the invention, the process for treating keratinous materials according to the invention implementing ingredients i), possibly ii), possibly iii), and possibly iv), is a treatment for coloring keratinous fibers.

[0134] According to another aspect of the invention, the process for treating keratinous materials according to the invention implementing ingredients i), possibly ii), possibly iii) and possibly iv), is a skin care process.

[0135] According to one embodiment of the invention, the process according to the invention is a treatment process, particularly for cosmetic purposes, of keratinous materials, especially for the care and / or makeup of the skin, lips, eyelashes and / or eyebrows and / or for the care, styling and / or coloring of keratinous fibers, preferably hair, comprising the application to said keratinous materials of at least:

[0136] - a composition, referred to as "Cl", comprising i) at least one compound of formula (I) as well as its optical, geometric isomers, its organic or mineral acid or base salts, and / or solvates, such as hydrates, as defined above and below, possibly iii) water, and possibly iv) at least one cosmetic active ingredient, in particular as defined above and below;

[0137] - a composition, referred to as "C2", comprising i) at least one compound of formula (I) as well as its optical, geometric isomers, its organic or mineral acid or base salts, and / or solvates, such as hydrates, as defined above and below, possibly ii) at least one crosslinking agent, in particular as defined above and below, possibly iii) water, and possibly iv) at least one cosmetic active ingredient, in particular as defined above and below;

[0138] - a composition, referred to as "C3", comprising i) at least one compound of formula (I) as well as its optical, geometric isomers, its organic or mineral acid or base salts, and / or solvates, such as hydrates, as defined above and below, ii) at least one crosslinking agent, in particular as defined above and below, iv) at least one cosmetic active ingredient, in particular as defined above and below, and possibly iii) water;

[0139] - a composition, referred to as "C4", comprising ii) at least one crosslinking agent, in par specific as defined above and below, possibly iv) at least one cosmetic active ingredient, specifically as defined above and below, and possibly iii) water; and / or

[0140] - a composition, referred to as "C5", comprising (iv) at least one cosmetic active ingredient, in par particular as defined above and below, and possibly iii) water;

[0141] it being understood that the compositions “Cl”, “C2”, “C3”, “C4” and “C5” may be anhydrous, aqueous, and / or comprise one or more fatty substances v), in particular as defined below.

[0142] According to one aspect of the invention, the process for treating keratinous materials, particularly for the care and / or makeup of skin, lips, eyelashes and / or eyebrows and / or for the care, styling and / or coloring of keratinous fibers, preferably hair, employs a composition, referred to as "Cl", comprising i) at least one compound of formula (I) as well as its optical, geometric isomers, its organic or mineral acid or base salts, and / or solvates, such as hydrates, as defined above and below, optionally iii) water and optionally iv) at least one cosmetic active ingredient, particularly as defined below, notably selected from a) coloring agents, such as pigments, direct colorants, and mixtures thereof, b) active ingredients for the care of keratinous materials, preferably skin, c) UV filters, and d) mixtures thereof, and in particular at least one coloring agent, more particularly at least one pigment.

[0143] According to another aspect, the process for treating keratinous materials according to the invention, in particular for the care and / or makeup of the skin, lips, eyelashes and / or eyebrows and / or for the care, styling and / or coloring of keratinous fibers, preferably hair, employs a composition, referred to as "C2", comprising i) at least one compound of formula (I) as well as its optical, geometric isomers, its organic or mineral acid or base salts, and / or solvated, such as hydrates, as defined above and below, optionally ii) at least one crosslinking agent, in particular as defined below, optionally iii) water, and optionally iv) at least one cosmetic active, in particular as defined above, preferably said composition "C2" comprising iii) water.

[0144] According to another aspect, the process for treating keratinous materials according to the invention, in particular for the care and / or makeup of the skin, lips, eyelashes and / or eyebrows and / or for the care, styling and / or coloring of keratinous fibers, preferably hair, employs a composition, referred to as "C3", comprising i) at least one compound of formula (I) as well as its optical, geometric isomers, its organic or mineral acid or base salts, and / or solvates, such as hydrates, as defined above and below, ii) at least one crosslinking agent, in particular as defined below, iv) at least one cosmetic active ingredient, in particular as defined above, and optionally iii) water.

[0145] According to another aspect, the process for treating keratinous materials according to the invention, particularly for the care and / or makeup of skin, lips, eyelashes and / or eyebrows and / or for the care, styling and / or coloring of keratinous fibers, employs a composition referred to as "Cl" and a composition referred to as "C4", said composition "Cl" comprising i) at least one compound of formula (I) as well as its optical and geometric isomers, its organic or mineral acid or base salts, and / or solvates, such as hydrates, as defined above and below, even actually üi) water, and possibly iv) at least one cosmetic active ingredient, in particular as defined above and below, and the said composition “C4” comprising ii) at least one crosslinking agent, in particular as defined above and below, possibly iii) water, and possibly iv) at least one cosmetic active ingredient, in particular as defined above and below.

[0146] According to another variant of the process of the invention, the ingredient(s) i), optionally iii), and optionally iv) are applied together, namely simultaneously, to the keratin materials in a first step, and then in a subsequent step, the ingredient(s) ii), optionally iii), and optionally iv) are applied to said materials.

[0147] According to a particular embodiment, the process according to the invention comprises two successive application steps on said keratinous materials, of two different compositions.

[0148] According to a particular embodiment of the process, in the first step a "Cl" composition is applied to the keratinous materials, then a "C4" composition is applied to said keratinous materials.

[0149] According to yet another embodiment of the process of the invention, ingredient(s) ii) and optionally iv) is / are applied to the keratinous materials, then ingredient(s) i), and optionally iv), at least one cosmetic active ingredient, in particular as defined above, are applied to said keratinous materials. In particular, composition “C4” is applied to the keratinous materials and then composition “Cl” is applied.

[0150] According to another variant of the method according to the invention, a composition "Cl" containing i), and iii) optionally water, is applied, and sequentially a composition "C4" containing ii), optionally iii), and optionally iv), preferably composition "Cl" being applied before composition "C4".

[0151] According to a particular embodiment of the process, in the first step a composition “C2” is applied to the keratinous materials, then a composition “C4” is applied to said keratinous materials.

[0152] According to another embodiment of the method according to the invention, a composition “C2” containing i) at least one compound of formula (I) as well as its optical, geometric isomers, its organic or mineral acid or base salts, and / or solvates, such as hydrates, optionally ii) at least one crosslinking agent, optionally iii) water, and optionally iv) at least one cosmetic active ingredient, is applied, and sequentially a composition “C4” containing ii) at least one crosslinking agent, optionally iii) water, and optionally at least one cosmetic active ingredient iv), preferably composition “C2” being applied before composition “C4”, and it being understood that the optional crosslinking agent(s) contained in composition “C2” may be identical or different from the crosslinking agent(s) contained in composition "C4", preferably the crosslinking agent(s) are different.

[0153] The compositions “Cl”, “C2”, “C3”, “C4” and / or “C5” of the process according to the invention which comprise at least one fat, in particular at least one oil, and water, may be in the form of a direct or reverse emulsion.

[0154] The compositions “Cl”, “C2”, “C3”, “C4” and / or “C5” of the process according to the invention can therefore be applied directly as such to the target keratinous materials or even be formed directly on the surface of these keratinous materials.

[0155] According to the invention, three modes of implementation are distinguished, called "1-step application mode", "2-step application mode" and "3-step application mode".

[0156] According to one embodiment of the process of the invention, the process is carried out in one step by applying to the keratinous materials the composition “Cl”, “C2” or “C3”, as defined above.

[0157] Thus, according to one embodiment, the treatment process according to the invention comprises a single step of applying composition "Cl" or composition "C2" or composition "C3" to said keratinous materials.

[0158] The term “one-step application method” means the direct application to the target keratinous materials of a single composition according to the invention, namely composition “Cl” or “C2” or “C3”.

[0159] After application of composition "Cl", "C2" or "C3", a residual and non-sticky deposit is advantageously obtained. The deposit obtained is also resistant to edible oils, water, sebum, and friction.

[0160] According to another embodiment of the process of the invention, the process is carried out in two steps.

[0161] The term "2-step application method" refers to the successive application, to the target keratinous material, of two different compositions, for example "Cl" and "C4", or "C2" and "C4", or "C3" and "C4". Preferably, "Cl" then "C4", "C2" then "C4", or "C3" then "C4".

[0162] According to another embodiment, the process of the invention is carried out in 3 steps.

[0163] The term "3-step application method" refers to the sequential application of three distinct "Cl" to "C5" compositions. According to this application method, for example, in one embodiment, the following successive applications are carried out on keratinous materials: a) a "Cl" composition, then |3) a "C4" composition, then y) a "C5" composition, preferably "Cl" then "C4" respectively "C5" or "C5" respectively "C4".

[0164] According to another embodiment, the sequential application is carried out on the keratin materials, a) of a composition for example "C4", and |3) of a composition "Cl" or "C2", and also y) of a composition "C5", preferably the composition "C4" is applied before the composition "Cl" or "C2".

[0165] In 2 or 3 step application methods, the composition applied first, for example "Cl", is conventionally referred to as "base coat", and the composition(s) which are superimposed on it are generally referred to as "top coat".

[0166] After applying the different compositions "Cl" to "C5", a persistent and non-sticky deposit is advantageously obtained. The deposit obtained is also resistant to edible oils, water, and shampoos.

[0167] According to a particular embodiment, the compositions are applied to dry keratinous materials.

[0168] According to a particular embodiment, the compositions are applied to wet or moist keratinous materials, i.e. to keratinous materials containing water on the surface.

[0169] According to a particular embodiment, the keratin materials are dried after application of the compositions "Cl" to "C5", in particular after application of each different composition.

[0170] According to one aspect, the present invention relates to a treatment method, in particular cosmetic, of keratinous materials, in particular for the care and / or makeup of the skin, lips, eyelashes and / or eyebrows and / or for the care, styling and / or coloring of keratinous fibers, preferably hair, comprising a step of applying to the skin or said lips or eyelashes or eyebrows, a composition "Cl", "C2" or "C3", in particular containing at least one coloring material, in particular as defined above, and more particularly at least one pigment.

[0171] According to another aspect, the present invention relates to a cosmetic treatment method for the care, styling and / or coloring of keratin fibers, preferably hair, comprising the successive application of at least:

[0172] - a composition, referred to as "Cl", comprising i) at least one compound of formula (I) as well as its optical and geometric isomers, its organic or mineral acid or base salts, and / or solvates, such as hydrates, as defined above and below, possibly iii) water, and possibly iv) at least one cosmetic active ingredient, in particular as defined above and below; then

[0173] - a composition, referred to as "C4", comprising ii) at least one crosslinking agent, in par particular as defined above and below, possibly iii) water, and possibly iv) at least one cosmetic active ingredient, in particular as defined above and below;

[0174] at least one of the compositions “Cl” and / or “C4” containing at least one substance colouring, in particular as defined above and below, preferably at least one pigment, and more preferably the composition "Cl" comprises at least one pigment.

[0175] According to another aspect, the present invention relates to a cosmetic treatment method for the care, styling and / or coloring of keratin fibers, preferably hair, comprising the successive application of at least:

[0176] - a "Cl" composition as defined above; then

[0177] - a "C4" composition as defined above; then

[0178] - a "C5" composition as defined above;

[0179] it being understood that the compositions “Cl” and / or “C4” and / or “C5” contain at less one coloring matter, in particular as defined below, preferably at least one pigment. Preferably, composition "C5" comprises at least one pigment.

[0180] According to another aspect, the present invention relates to a cosmetic treatment method for the care, styling and / or coloring of keratin fibers, preferably hair, comprising the successive application of at least:

[0181] - a "C2" or "C3" composition as defined above; and

[0182] - a "C4" composition as defined above;

[0183] it being understood that the compositions “C2” or “C3” contain at least iv) a colouring material, in particular as defined below, and / or the composition “C4” contains at least one colouring material, in particular as defined below, preferably the composition “C2” or “C3” comprises at least one pigment.

[0184] COMPOUNDS OF FORMULA (I)

[0185] As indicated above, the treatment process according to the invention comprises the application on keratin materials of at least one or more compounds chosen by oligosaccharides or polysaccharides having acetoacetate functions of formula (I) as well as their optical, geometric isomers, their organic or mineral acid or base salts, and / or solvated, such as hydrates, or a composition containing them.

[0186] Thus, the treatment process according to the invention comprises the application to keratinous materials of at least one or more compounds of formula (I) as well as their optical, geometric isomers, their organic or mineral acid or base salts, and / or solvates, such as hydrates, or a composition containing them:

[0187] [Chem.2]

[0188] (I)

[0189] formula (I) in which:

[0190] - R1 represents a multivalent, linear or cyclic polysaccharide radical, of linear preference, consisting of at least 3 monosaccharide units, each comprising at least 5 carbon atoms, particularly between 7 and 9 carbon atoms, preferably at least 6 carbon atoms, more particularly between 6 and 8 carbon atoms, and more preferably 6 carbon atoms, and of which one or more of the hydroxy (-OH), carbonyl (-C(O)), carboxy (-C(O)-OH) or amino -NH2 groups, of all or part of at least one of the monosaccharide units, are optionally substituted by one or more R3 groups;

[0191] - R2 represents a monovalent hydrocarbon radical in C1 to C6, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, preferably a (Ci-C4)alkyl group, more preferably methyl;

[0192] - R3, identical or different, represents a group chosen from:

[0193] 1) sulfonate -SO3, Cat+,

[0194] 2) (Ci-C22)alkyl, linear or branched, and

[0195] 3) (Ci-C22)alkylcarbonyl, linear or branched,

[0196] the (Ci-C22)alkyl group being optionally interrupted by one or more heteroatoms or X groups as defined below; and / or

[0197] the (Ci-C22)alkyl group being optionally substituted by one or more groups selected from: a) hydroxy (-OH); b) sulfonate -SO3, Cat+; c) sulfate -O-SO3, Cat+; d) -(CH2-CH2-O)P-R4; e) -O-(CH2-CH2-O)P-R4; f) -C(O)-R4; g) -C(O)-O-R4; h) -OC(O)-R4; i) -C(O)-N(R')-R4; j) -N(R')-C(O)-R4; k) ammonium -N+R' '3; An and 1) mixtures thereof;

[0198] - R4 represents a hydrogen atom, a linear or branched (Ci-C8)alkyl group of preference R4 represents a hydrogen atom or a linear or branched (Ci-C6)alkyl group, more preferably a linear or branched (Ci-C4)alkyl group, in particular methyl;

[0199] - Ra and Rb, whether identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or a group (CrC4)alkyl, preferably a hydrogen atom;

[0200] - X is a heteroatom or group chosen from -O-, -S-, -N(R')-, and their com combinations such as -C(O)-O-, -OC(O)-, -C(O)-N(R')-, -N(R')-C(O)-, -N(R')-C(O)-O-, -N(R')-C(O)-N(R')-, preferably X represents -O-;

[0201] - R', identical or different, represents a hydrogen atom, a (Ci-C6) group )alkyl, linear or branched, possibly substituted by at least one hydroxy group (OH), preferably R' represents a hydrogen atom or an (Ci-C4)alkyl group, in particular methyl, more preferably R' represents a hydrogen atom;

[0202] - R”, identical or different, represents a hydrogen atom or a group (Ci-C6 )alkyl, linear or branched, preferably a (Ci-C4)alkyl group, in particular methyl;

[0203] - n denotes an integer from 2 to 3000, in particular from 5 to 2500, plus part particularly from 10 to 2300, preferably from 15 to 1000, preferably from 20 to 500, and more preferably from 25 to 200;

[0204] - p denotes an integer from 0 to 3;

[0205] - An represents an anionic counter ion;

[0206] - Cat+ represents a cationic counter ion;

[0207] ii) possibly at least one crosslinking agent; and

[0208] iii) optionally water, preferably water, or optionally water mixed with a polar organic solvent, preferably selected from (C2-C6)alkanols, more preferably ethanol.

[0209] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, R1 represents a multivalent, linear or cyclic, preferably linear, polysaccharide radical consisting of at least 3 monosaccharide units, each comprising at least 5 carbon atoms, preferably at least 6 carbon atoms, particularly between 6 and 8 carbon atoms, and more preferably 6 carbon atoms, and of which none of the hydroxy (-OH), carbonyl (-C(O)), carboxy (-C(O)-OH) or amino -NH2 groups of the monosaccharide units are substituted.

[0210] According to another particular embodiment of the invention, the compounds of formula (I) are such that R1 represents a multivalent, linear or cyclic, preferably linear, polysaccharide radical consisting of at least 3 monosaccharide units, each comprising at least 5 carbon atoms, preferably at least 6 carbon atoms, particularly comprising 6 to 8 carbon atoms, and more preferably 6 carbon atoms, and of which one or more of the hydroxyl (-OH) or amino-NH2 groups of all or part of at least one of the monosaccharide units are substituted by one or more R3 groups, identical or different, representing a (Cr-C22)alkylcarbonyl group, the (Cr-C22)alkyl group being:

[0211] - possibly interrupted by one or more oxygen, sulfur or - atoms N(H)- preferably -O-, and / or

[0212] - optionally substituted by one or more groups selected from a) hydroxy (-OH); b) sulfonate -SO3, Cat+; c) sulfate -O-SO3, Cat+; d) -(CH2-CH2-O)P-R4; e) -O-(CH2-CH2-O)p-R4; f) -C(O)-R4; g) -C(O)-O-R4; h) -OC(O)-R4; i) -C(O)-N(R')-R4; j) -N(R')-C(O)-R4; k) ammonium -N+R”3, An and 1) their mixtures; with R4 representing a hydrogen atom, or a (Ci-C6)alkyl group, more preferably (Ci-C4)alkyl, such as methyl, R”, An and Cat+ being as defined above. Preferably, R'' represents a (Ci-C4)alkyl group, such as methyl.

[0213] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the compounds of formula (I) are such that R3, identical or different, represents a (Ci-C22)alkylcarbonyl group, the (Ci-C22)alkyl group being optionally substituted by one or more groups selected from a) hydroxy (-OH); h) ammonium -N+R”3, An and i) their mixtures; with R” represents a (Ci-C4)alkyl group, such as methyl.

[0214] More preferably, the (Ci-C22)alkyl(e) group of R3 represents a -CH2 -CH(OH)-CH2-N+(CH3)3 An group.

[0215] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the compounds of formula (I) are such that R1 represents a multivalent, linear or cyclic, preferably linear, polysaccharide radical consisting of at least 3 monosaccharide units each comprising at least 5 carbon atoms, preferably at least 6 carbon atoms, and more preferably 6 carbon atoms, and of which one or more of the hydroxy groups, of all or part of at least one of the monosaccharide units, are substituted by one or more R3 groups, identical or different, representing a sulfonate group -SO3, Cat+.

[0216] According to another embodiment of the invention, R1 represents a multivalent, linear or cyclic, preferably linear, polysaccharide radical consisting of at least 3 monosaccharide units, each comprising at least 5 carbon atoms, preferably at least 6 carbon atoms, particularly between 6 and 8 carbon atoms, and more preferably 6 carbon atoms, and of which one or more of the hydroxyl (-OH), carbonyl (-C(O)), carboxyl (-C(O)-OH) or amino -NH2 groups, of all or part of at least one of the monosaccharide units, are substituted by one or more R3 groups, with R3, identical or different, representing a group selected from:

[0217] 1) sulfonate -SO3, Cat+,

[0218] 2) (Ci-C22)alkyl, linear or branched, and

[0219] 3) (Ci-C22)alkylcarbonyl, linear or branched.

[0220] More preferably, R1 comprises one or more of the hydroxyl (-OH) or amino (-NH2) groups of all or part of at least one of the monosaccharide units, substituted by one or more R3 groups as defined above. In particular, the -OH group is substituted by a group 1), 2), or 3), more particularly by a group 1) or 3), preferably by a group 3). In particular, the -NH2 group is substituted by a group 2) or 3), more particularly by a group 3).

[0221] According to a particular embodiment, the compound(s) of formula (I) and their optical, geometric isomers, their organic or mineral acid or base salts, and / or solvates according to the invention are such that the polysaccharide radical represented by R1 is selected from polysaccharide radicals derived from agarose, starch and its derivatives, cationic starch, alginate and its derivatives, hyaluronic acid, cellulose and its derivatives, in particular selected from methylcellulose, ethylcellulose, hydroxymethylcellulose, hydroxypropylmethylcellulose and hydroxybutylcellulose, carrageenan, curdlan, dextran, glucan, guar gum, gellan, konjac, rinulin, pectin, pullulan, scleroglucan, xanthan gum and their derivatives, preferably selected from starch and its derivatives, cellulose and its derivatives and alginate and its derivatives, and more preferably selected from pullulan and its derivatives, such as myristoyl pullulan.

[0222] By "derivatives" is meant compounds obtained by chemical modification of the aforementioned compounds. In particular, these may be esters, amides, or ethers of said compounds.

[0223] Polysaccharide / oligosaccharide derivatives may, for example, be selected from those described in the articles “Natural and modified polysaccharides”, Drug Targeting and Delivery (1997), 7, 275-289 and “Gums”, Kirk-Othmer Encyclopedia of Chemical Technology (2005), 13, 60-73.

[0224] The R1 polysaccharide radicals can also be selected from radicals derived from fatty chain polysaccharide derivatives, in particular those described in the publication "Enzymatic synthesis of oligo- and polysaccharide fatty acid esters", Carbohydrate Polymers, (2013), 93(1), 65-72, "Chemical Modification of Polysaccharides", Hindawi, Organic Chemistry, Volume 2013, Article ID 417672, or in patent application CA2087488.

[0225] According to a particular embodiment, the fatty chain polysaccharides that give rise to the Ri radicals are chosen from Myristoyl Pullulan, Stearoyl Inulin, Undecylenoyl Inulin and Palmitoyl Hydroxypropylcellulose, preferably from fatty chain esters, more preferably myristoyl pullulan.

[0226] Polysaccharide / oligosaccharide derivatives may also be selected from thiolated polysaccharides / oligosaccharides, in particular those described in the publication "Unsaturated and thiolated derivatives of polysaccharides as functional matrices for tissue engineering and pharmacology: A review", Carbohydrate Polymers, 2021, Volume 259, 117735.

[0227] According to a particular embodiment, compounds of formula (I) possessing acetoacetate functions are selected from:

[0228] a) cellulose, starch, amylose and their derivatives, of formula (II) as well as their optical isomers, their acid or base salts, organic or mineral, and solvates, such as hydrates:

[0229] [Chem.3]

[0230] (II)

[0231] b) alginate, pectin and their derivatives, of formula (III) as well as their optical isomers, their acid or base salts, organic or mineral, and solvates, such as hydrates:

[0232] [Chem.4]

[0233] (III)

[0234] c) hyaluronic acid and its derivatives, of formula (IV) as well as their isomers and solvates:

[0235] [Chem.5]

[0236] (IV)

[0237] d) dextran and its derivatives, of formula (V) as well as their optical isomers, their acid or base salts, organic or mineral, and solvates, such as hydrates:

[0238] [Chem.6]

[0239] (V)

[0240] e) inulin and its derivatives, of formula (VI) as well as their optical isomers, their acid or base salts, organic or mineral, and solvates, such as hydrates:

[0241] [Chem.7]

[0242] (VI)

[0243] f) guar gum and its derivatives, of formula (VII) as well as their optical isomers, their acid or base salts, organic or mineral, and solvates, such as hydrates:

[0244] [Chem. 8] R?O OR'

[0245] (VII)

[0246] g) glucan and its derivatives, of formula (VIII) as well as their optical isomers, their salts of acid or base, organic or mineral, and solvates, such as hydrates:

[0247] [Chem.9]

[0248] (VIII)

[0249] h) carrageenan and its derivatives, in particular of formula (IX), as well as their optical isomers, their acid or base salts, organic or mineral, and solvates, such as hydrates:

[0250] [Chem. 10] r'

[0251] (IX)

[0252] in particular selected from the derivatives y-carrageenan, ô-carrageenan, q-carrageenan, v-carrageenan, X-carrageenan, and their respective basic forms [3-carrageenan, a-carrageenan, K-carrageenan, i-carrageenan, 0-carrageenan, it being understood that the car-ragenans comprise at least one formula group (XII), preferably at least two formula groups (XII);

[0253] i) cyclodextrin and its derivatives, of formula (X):

[0254] [Chem. 11]

[0255] (X)

[0256] j) pullulan and its derivatives, of formula (XI) as well as their optical isomers, their acid or base salts, organic or mineral, and solvates, such as hydrates:

[0257] [Chem. 12] R7

[0258] (XI)

[0259] formulas (II) to (XI) in which: - R6, whether identical or different, represents -CH2-OR7 or -C(O)-OR7. - R7, whether identical or different, represents a hydrogen atom or a group R3 as defined in formula (I), preferably a (Ci-C22)alkyl group, optionally substituted by at least one hydroxyl group (-OH) or a -C(O)-R8 group, with R8 representing a (Ci-C22)alkyl group, or a -CH2-CH(OH)-CH2-N+(CH3)3An group, or an R9 group of formula (XII), R7' representing an R7 radical or a -SO3, Cat+ group, Cat+ being as defined previously, or a group of formula (XII):

[0260] [Chem. 13] OO

[0261] (XII)

[0262] formula (XII) in which Ra, Rb, and R2 are such as previously defined for compounds of formula (I), preferably R2 denotes a methyl radical and Ra and Rb denote a hydrogen atom; - R10, whether identical or different, represents a hydrogen atom, a group (Ci-C4)alkyl, such as -CH3 or an R9 group as defined above; - m denotes an integer ranging from 2 to 3000, in particular from 5 to 2500, more particularly from 10 to 2300, preferably from 15 to 1000, preferably from 20 to 500, and more preferably from 25 to 200; - An being as defined previously;

[0263] it being understood that formulas (II) to (XI) have at least one R9 motif, and preferably at least two R9 motifs, of formula (XII), in their structure.

[0264] According to a particular embodiment, polysaccharides and / or oligosaccharides possessing acetoacetate functions are selected from:

[0265] - 3-Alginic acid oxobutanoate (CAS No.: 2135428-65-6);

[0266] - Amylose 3-oxobutanoate (CAS No.: 106254-13-1);

[0267] - cellulose, 3-oxobutanoate, 2-hydroxyethyl ether (CAS number: 104708-71-6);

[0268] - cellulose, 3-oxobutanoate, carboxymethyl ether (CAS number: 105953-68-2);

[0269] - la cellulose, 3-oxobutanoate, 2-hydroxypropyl ether (n° CAS : 105953-69-3) ;

[0270] - la cellulose, 3-oxobutanoate, methyl ether (n° CAS : 105953-70-6) ;

[0271] - la cellulose, tris(3-oxobutanoate) (n° CAS : 119466-02-3) ;

[0272] - la cellulose, 3-oxobutanoate (n° CAS : 80619-14-3) ;

[0273] - la cellulose, acetate 3-oxobutanoate (n° CAS : 168608-38-6) ;

[0274] - la cellulose, hexanoate 3-oxobutanoate (n° CAS : 1696417-96-5) ;

[0275] - la cellulose, 3-oxobutanoate propanoate (n° CAS : 163381-45-1) ;

[0276] - la cellulose, butanoate 3-oxobutanoate (n° CAS : 163438-87-7) ;

[0277] - la cellulose, 4-methoxy-3-oxobutanoate (n° CAS : 2410687-10-2) ;

[0278] - la cellulose, 3-oxobutanoate, 2-hydroxypropyl methyl ether (n° CAS : 2223678-14-4) ;

[0279] - la cellulose, acetate butanoate 3-ethoxypropanoate 3-oxobutanoate (n° CAS : 334475-56-8) ;

[0280] - la cellulose, 2-hydroxypropyl ether, 3-oxobutanoate (n° CAS : 497932-47-5) ;

[0281] - la cellulose, 3-oxobutanoate, ethyl ether (n° CAS : 497932-48-6) ;

[0282] - le dextran, 3-oxobutanoate (n° CAS : 882428-66-2) ;

[0283] - le D-Glucan, 3-oxobutanoate (n° CAS : 2135428-66-7) ;

[0284] - le guar gum, 3-oxobutanoate (n° CAS : 497932-49-7) ;

[0285] - le hyaluronic acid, 3-oxobutanoate (n° CAS : 2135428-62-3) ;

[0286] - le starch, 3-oxobutanoate (n° CAS : 78207-15-5) ;

[0287] - le starch, 3-oxobutanoate, methyl ether (n° CAS : 2135428-59-8) ;

[0288] - le starch, 3-oxobutanoate, 2-carboxymethyl ether (n° CAS : 2135428-60-1) ;

[0289] - le starch, 2-hydroxypropyl ether, 3-oxobutanoate (n° CAS : 2135428-61-2) ;

[0290] - starch, 3-oxobutanoate, 2-hydroxypropyl ether (CAS number: 2223678-15-5);

[0291] - pullulan acetoacetate (CAS number: 2762209-81-2);

[0292] - cyclodextrin, ethyl-3-oxobutanoate (CAS number: 152154-93-3);

[0293] - cyclodextrin, 3-oxobutanoate (CAS number: 2135428-63-4); And

[0294] - myristoyl pullulan acetoacetate.

[0295] According to a preferred embodiment, polysaccharides and / or oligosaccharides possessing acetoacetate functions are selected from compounds of formula (XI) as well as their optical isomers, their acid or base salts, organic or mineral, and their solvates such as hydrates, and preferably selected from pullulan acetoacetate (CAS No. 2762209-81-2) and myristoyl pullulan acetoacetate.

[0296] According to one embodiment, the polysaccharide(s) and / or oligosaccharide(s) possessing acetoacetate functions of formula (I) are obtained by (poly)condensation(s) of n equivalents of dicarbonyl reagent with a polysaccharide R'(XH)n comprising n equivalents of nucleophilic -XH functions according to the following scheme:

[0297] [Chem. 14]

[0298] diagram in which:

[0299] - R1, R2, Ra, Rb and n are as defined in formula (I) described above;

[0300] - R3 represents a hydrogen atom, a (Ci-C4)alkyl group, in particular methyl, ethyl, isobutyl, t-butyl, or an electrofuge group such as CHal3, or Hal3 C-SO2- such as triflate, with Hal, identical or different, representing a halogen atom; and

[0301] - X' represents an oxygen atom, or sulfur, preferably an atom of oxygen.

[0302] Such a preparation process is described in particular in patent application WO2020026143, or in the publications "Synthesis and properties of cellulose ace-toacetates", Macromolecules (1995), 28(12), 4122-8, and "A facile method of functional derivatization based on starch acetoacetate", Carbohydrate Polymers, 2022, 289, 119468.

[0303] According to another embodiment, the polysaccharide(s) and / or oligosaccharide(s) possessing acetoacetate functions of formula (I) are obtained by enzymatic esterification, as described in US patent application 6528644B1, or in US patent application 20100003730, by (poly)condensation(s) of n equivalents of 2-Oxetanone, 4-methylene reagent with an oligo / polysaccharide nucleophilic reagent R'(OH)n comprising n equivalents of -OH nucleophilic functions according to the following scheme:

[0304] [Chem. 15]

[0305] scheme in which R1 and n are such as defined in formula (I) described above.

[0306] According to another embodiment, the polysaccharide(s) and / or oligosaccharide(s) possessing acetoacetate functions of formula (I) are obtained by (poly)condensation(s) of n equivalents of propylenedioxy carbonyl reagent with an oligo / polysaccharide nucleophilic reagent R'(XH)n comprising n equivalents of -XH nucleophilic functions according to the following scheme:

[0307] [Chem. 16] R2

[0308] diagram in which:

[0309] - R1, R2, Ra, Rb and n are as defined in formula (I) described above;

[0310] - R3 represents a hydrogen atom, a (Ci-C4)alkyl group, in particular methyl, ethyl, isobutyl, t-butyl, or an electrofuge group such as CHal3, or Hal3 C-SO2- such as triflate, with Hal, identical or different, representing a halogen atom; and

[0311] - X' represents an oxygen atom, or sulfur, preferably an atom of oxygen.

[0312] Such a preparation process is described in particular in the publication “Acetoacetylation with 2,2,6-trimethyl-4H-1,3-dioxin-4-one: a convenient alternative to diketene”, Journal of Organic Chemistry (1985), 50(14), 2431-5.

[0313] According to a preferred embodiment, the polysaccharide(s) and / or oligosaccharide(s) possessing acetoacetate functions of formula (I) are obtained by (poly)condensation(s) of n equivalents of propylenedioxy carbonyl reagent with an oligo / polysaccharide nucleophilic reagent R'(OH)n comprising n equivalents of -OH nucleophilic functions according to the following scheme:

[0314] [Chem. 17]

[0315] diagram in which:

[0316] - R1, R2, Ra and n are such as defined previously in formula (I);

[0317] - Rb' and Rc', whether identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or a (Ci-C4)alkyl group.

[0318] Such a preparation process is described in particular in the publications "Efficient and catalyst free synthesis of cellulose acetoacetates", Cellulose, 2018, 25 (9), 4919-4928, "2,2,6-trimethyl-4H-l,3-dioxin-4-one: a convenient alternative to diketene", Journal of Organic Chemistry 50(14), 2431-5, (1985), "Acetoacetylation of O-(hydroxypropyl)cellulose by 2,2,6-trimethyl-4H-l,3-dioxin-4-one", Carbohydrate Research 156, 232-5, (1986), or in patent applications WO9740074 and WO9303063.

[0319] According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the compounds of formula (I) are prepared by reacting a polysaccharide with n equivalents of ester R2-C(O)-C(Ra)(Rb)-C(O)-O-tBu in a polar aprotic solvent such as DMSO, DMF, preferably DMSO, at a temperature between 25 °C and 190 °C, preferably between 50 °C and 130 °C, and preferably at atmospheric pressure. The preparation process is, for example, that described in the scientific article "A facile method of functional derivatization based on starch acetoacetate", Carbohydrate Polymers, 289, 119468 (2022).

[0320] The polysaccharide(s) and / or oligosaccharide(s) possessing acetoacetate functions of formula (I), as well as their optical and geometric isomers, their organic or mineral acid or base salts, and solvated as defined above, are preferably present in a content ranging from 1% to 30% by weight, in particular from 2% to 25% by weight, more particularly from 4% to 22% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition containing them.

[0321] Another object of the invention is the compound myristoyl pullulan acetoacetate, its optical and geometric isomers, its organic or mineral acid or base salts, and / or solvated salts, such as hydrates, of formula:

[0322] [Chem. 18]

[0323] formula in which:

[0324] - m is as defined previously;

[0325] - R11, identical or different, represents a hydrogen atom or a group (Ci0-Ci6 jalkyl, linear or branched, preferably linear, such as CHi3H27, or (Ci0-Ci6 jalkylcarbonyl, linear or branched, preferably linear, such as CHi3H27-C(O)- or an R9 group as defined above;

[0326] provided that at least one, preferably at least two, R11 group(s), and at least one (Ci0-Ci6)alkyl or (Ci0-Ci6)alkylcarbonyl group, such as CHi3H27 or CHi3H27 -C(O)-, are present in the above myristoyl pullulan acetoacetate compound.

[0327] Another object of the invention is a cosmetic composition comprising at least one myristoyl pullulan acetoacetate compound as defined above.

[0328] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the composition “Cl” as defined above is an aqueous composition.

[0329] Crosslinking Agent

[0330] According to a particular embodiment, the treatment process according to the invention as described above comprises the application on the keratin materials, (i) of at least one or more compounds of formula (I) as well as their optical, geometric isomers, their acid or base salts, and / or solvates, and (ii) of at least one crosslinking agent.

[0331] For the purposes of the invention, the term "crosslinking agent", also referred to as "R", designates a compound capable of forming with at least one acetoacetate function of the compound(s) of formula (I) used in the treatment process according to the invention:

[0332] - at least one covalent bond,

[0333] - at least one donor-acceptor (dative) bond, and / or

[0334] - at least one coordination link,

[0335] and thus to crosslink this or these compound(s).

[0336] Preferably, the term “crosslinking agent”, also called “R”, designates a compound capable of establishing at least one covalent bond with an acetoacetate function of the compound(s) of formula (I) used in the treatment process according to the invention and thus of crosslinking this or these compound(s).

[0337] For the purposes of the present invention, it is understood that the terms “crosslinking agent” and “crosslinking agent” are equivalent.

[0338] Compositions “C2”, “C3” and “C4” as defined above may contain at least one crosslinking agent. The compositions of the invention may comprise an oily phase, an aqueous phase, or may be in the form of a direct or reverse emulsion. Composition “C4” may be an aqueous composition. Composition “C2” may be an aqueous composition.

[0339] According to one aspect, the treatment process of the invention uses a composition called "C3", in particular cosmetic for keratin materials, in particular for the care and / or makeup of the skin, lips, eyelashes and / or eyebrows and / or for the care, styling and / or coloring of keratin fibers, preferably hair, comprising i) at least one compound of formula (I) as well as their optical, geometric isomers, their acid or base salts, and / or solvates as defined above, ii) at least one crosslinking agent, iv) at least one cosmetic active, in particular as defined above, in particular at least one coloring agent, more particularly at least one pigment, and optionally iii) water.

[0340] The crosslinking agent(s) are preferably present in a mass content ranging from 0.2% to 60% by weight, in particular from 0.5% to 40% by weight, and more particularly from 1% to 20% by weight, even more particularly from 1% to 10% relative to the total weight of the composition containing them.

[0341] In particular, the crosslinking agent(s) and the compound(s) of formula (I) are preferably present in a mass content ranging from 1% to 35% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition comprising them.

[0342] More specifically, the crosslinking agent(s) R suitable for the invention may be chosen from compounds with amine, thiol, acrylate and / or carbonyl functional groups such as a ketone or aldehyde functional group. A crosslinking agent R may also refer to a metal alkoxide.

[0343] Thus, according to a particular embodiment, the crosslinking agent R is chosen from (poly)amine, (poly)thiol, (poly)carbonyl, (poly)acrylate, metal alkoxide compounds, and mixtures thereof, preferably chosen from (poly)amine, (poly)thiol and (poly)acrylate compounds and mixtures thereof, and more preferably chosen from (poly)amine, (poly)thiol compounds and mixtures thereof.

[0344] The terms (poly)amine, (poly)thiol, (poly)carbonyl and (poly)acrylate compounds refer to compounds comprising respectively at least one primary or secondary amine, thiol, carbonyl (such as a ketone or aldehyde) function, or acrylate.

[0345] Metal alkoxide compounds are defined below.

[0346] A) Polyamine compounds

[0347] According to a preferred embodiment, the crosslinking agent R is chosen from (poly)amine compounds.

[0348] The (poly)amine compound may in particular be chosen from polyamine compounds having several primary and / or secondary amine groups or from amino alkoxysilanes, and more particularly from amino alkoxysilane compounds, diamine compounds, triamine compounds, and mixtures thereof.

[0349] The (poly)amine compound may be a compound comprising from 2 to 20 carbon atoms, in particular a non-polymeric compound, they may be acyclic, or cyclic, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, conjugated or non-conjugated, aromatic or non-aromatic, optionally interrupted by one or more heteroatoms selected from O, S, Si(R')2, N(R”) preferably O, Si(R')2, or their combinations such as -Si(R')2-O- or -O-Si(R')2-, with R', identical or different, representing a (Ci-C4)alkyl group such as methyl, and R” representing a hydrogen atom or a (Ci-C4)alkyl group, preferably a hydrogen atom.

[0350] By "non-polymer compound" is meant a compound that is not directly obtained by a polymerization reaction of monomers.

[0351] Examples of (poly)amine compounds include N-methyl-1,3-diaminopropane, N-propyl 1,3-diaminopropane, N-isopropyl 1,3-diaminopropane, N-cyclohexyl 1,3-diaminopropane, 2-(3-aminopropylamino)ethanol, 3-(2-aminoethyl)aminopropylamine, bis(3-aminopropyl)amine, methyl bis(3-aminopropyl)amine, N-(3-aminopropyl)-1,4-diaminobutane, N,N-dimethyldipropylene triamine, 1,2-bis(3-aminopropylamino)ethane, N,N'-bis(3-aminopropyl)-1,3-propanediamine, ethylenediamine, 1,3-propylenediamine, 1,4-butylenediamine, lysine, cystamine, xylenediamine, tris(2-aminoethyl)amine, l,3-bis(aminomethyl)cyclohexane, l,4-bis(aminomethyl)cyclohexane, diaminopropanol, 4,7,10-Trioxa-l,13-tridecanediamine, spermidine and C36-alkylenediamines (respectively Priamine™ 1071, 1073, 1074, 1075), preferably spermidine.

[0352] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the (poly)amine compound(s) are monoamine, namely they contain a single primary and / or secondary amine group, preferably primary (NH2).

[0353] The (poly)amine compound(s) may be chosen from among the amino alkoxysilanes, in particular those of formula R'iSi(OR'2)z(R'3)x, in which:

[0354] - R' i is a linear or branched, saturated Ci-C6 hydrocarbon chain or unsaturated, cyclic or acyclic substituted by a group chosen from the primary amine group NH2 or secondary amine group -N(H)R with R representing a C1-C4 alkyl, aryl, or benzyl substituted by an amino group or by a C1-C4 aminoalkyl group; R can be interrupted in its chain by a heteroatom (O, S, NH) or a carbonyl group C(O), R being linked to the silicon atom directly via a carbon atom,

[0355] - R'2 and R'3, whether identical or different, represent a linear (Ci-C6)alkyl group or branched,

[0356] - z denotes an integer from 1 to 3, and

[0357] - x denotes an integer from 0 to 2,

[0358] with z + x = 3.

[0359] In particular, R'1 is an acyclic chain. Preferably, R'1 is a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C1-C6 hydrocarbon chain substituted with an amine group -NH2 or -N(H)R, where R represents a C1-C6 alkyl, a C3-C6 cycloalkyl, or a C6 aromatic. More preferably, R'1 is a linear saturated C1-C6 hydrocarbon chain substituted with an amine group NH2. Even more preferably, R'1 is a linear saturated C2-C4 hydrocarbon chain substituted with an amine group NH2.

[0360] In particular, R'2 represents an alkyl group comprising 1 to 4 carbon atoms, preferably R'2 represents a linear alkyl group comprising 1 to 4 carbon atoms, and more preferably R'2 represents the ethyl group.

[0361] In particular, R'3 represents an alkyl group comprising from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, preferably, R'3 represents a linear alkyl group comprising from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, and more preferably R'3 represents the methyl or ethyl group. Preferably, z is equal to 3.

[0362] In particular, the (poly)amine compound(s) are chosen from among the amino al-coxysilanes having only one primary and / or secondary amine group, preferably primary (NH2), such as 3-aminopropyltriethoxysilane (APTES), 3-aminoethyltriethoxysilane (AETES), 3-aminopropylmethyldiethoxysilane, N-(2-aminoethyl 1)-3-aminopropytriethoxysilane, 3-(m-aminophenoxy)propyltrimethoxysilane, p-aminophenyltrimethoxysilane, and N-(2-aminoethylaminomethyl)-phenethyltrimethoxysilane.

[0363] Preferably, the (poly)amine compound(s) are chosen from 3-aminopropyltriethoxysilane (APTES), 3-aminoethyltriethoxysilane (AETES), 3-aminopropylmethyldiethoxysilane, and N-(2-aminoethyl)-3-aminopropyltriethoxysilane, and more preferably 3-aminopropyltriethoxysilane (APTES), in particular that marketed by Sigma Aldrich.

[0364] The (poly)amine compound may also be selected from amine polymers, in particular having a weight average molecular weight ranging from 500 g.mol1 to 1000000 g.mol*, preferably ranging from 500 g.mol1 to 500000 g.mol*, and preferably ranging from 500 g.mol1 to 100000 g.mol*.

[0365] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the (poly)amine compound(s) are monoamine and selected from polydialkylsiloxanes, in particular of formula (IV):

[0366] H2N-ALK-Si(R'2)(R'3)-O-[ Si(R'2)(R'3)-O]n- Si(R'2)(R'3)-R'4(IV)

[0367] formula (IV) in which:

[0368] - ALK represents a (Ci-C4)alkylene group, linear or branched, preferably linear, such as propylene,

[0369] - R'2, and R'3, identical or different, preferably identical, represent a (CrC4)alkyl group such as methyl, and

[0370] - R'4 represents a (Ci-C6)alkyl group, linear or branched, preferably at C4, such that n-butyl, does not represent an integer greater than or equal to 2, preferably the value of n is such that the average molecular weight by weight of the polydimethylsiloxane ranges from 500 to 3000 g.mol*. As an example of polydimethylsiloxanes (IV), we can cite those sold under the names "MCR-A11" and "MCR-A12" by the company Gelest.

[0371] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the (poly)amine compound(s) are diaminized, namely they contain two primary and / or secondary amine groups, preferably primary (NH2).

[0372] More specifically, they are chosen from compounds of formulas (V) or (VI): • ALK[(O-ALK')m-NH2]2 (V)

[0373] or • H2N-ALK-Si(R')2-[O-Si(R')2]mO-Si(R)2-ALK'-NH2 (VI)

[0374] formulas (V) and (VI) in which:

[0375] - ALK and ALK', whether identical or different, represent a (Ci-C6)alkylene group, linear or branched, preferably linear, such as propylene,

[0376] - R', identical or different, represents a (Ci-C4)alkyl group, such as methyl,

[0377] - m represents an integer greater than or equal to 0, preferably the value of m is such that the average molecular weight by weight of compound (V) or (VI) ranges from 500 g.mol1 to 55000 g.molV

[0378] Examples of compounds of formula (VI) include those sold under the names “DMS-A11”, “DMS-A12”, “DMS-A15”, “DMS-A21”, “DMS-A31”, “DMS-A32” and “DMS-A35” by the company Gelest.

[0379] The (poly)amine compound(s) which are diaminized are particularly the diaminized polyethers, notably of formula H2N-ALK-O-[ALK'-O]m-ALK”-NH2 with ALK, ALK' and ALK”, identical or different, representing a (Ci-C6) group )alkylene, linear or branched, and m representing an integer greater than or equal to 0, such as 4,7,10-trioxa-l,13-tridecanediamine or compounds known under the reference Jeffamine from the Huntsman company, and more particularly polyethylene glycol and / or polypropylene glycol a, co-diamine (with amine function at the end of the chain) such as those sold under the names Jeffamine D-230, D-400, D-2000, D-4000, ED-600, ED-9000, ED-2003.

[0380] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the (poly)amine compound(s) are triamine, namely they contain three primary and / or secondary amine groups, preferably primary (NH2). More particularly, they are selected from triamine polyethers, notably of formula ALK'”[(O-ALK')m-NH2]3, with ALK' as defined above and ALK”' representing a trivalent (Ci-C6)alkylene group, linear or branched, and m representing an integer greater than or equal to 0.

[0381] As (poly)amine compounds which are triamined, triamine polyethers are particularly cited, and in particular polyethylene glycol and / or polypropylene glycol a, co-diamine (with amine function at the end of the chain) such as those sold under the names Jeffamine T-403.

[0382] According to another particular embodiment of the invention, the (poly)amine compound(s) comprise more than three primary and / or secondary amine groups, preferably primary (NH2).

[0383] In this variant, the (poly)amine compound(s) are chosen from poly(meth)acrylates or poly(meth)acrylamides bearing primary or secondary amine functions, such as poly(3-aminopropyl)methacrylamide and poly(2-aminoethyl)methacrylate.

[0384] Preferably, the polyamine compounds are chosen from chitosans (in particular poly(D-glucosamine)), and polydimethylsiloxanes comprising primary amine groups at the end of the chain and / or on side chains.

[0385] According to this variant, the (poly)amine compound(s) are in particular chosen from poly(alkylene(C2-C5)imines), and preferably polyethyleneimines and polypropyleneimines, in particular poly(ethyleneimines), in particular that sold under reference 408700 by Aldrich Chemical or under the trade name Lupasol by BASF, in particular with a molecular weight between 1,200 and 25,000; poly(allylamine), in particular that sold under reference 479136 by Aldrich Chemical; polyvinylamines and their copolymers, in particular with vinylamides, in particular vinylamine / vinylformamide copolymers such as those marketed under the name Lupamin® 9030 by BASF; polyamino acids having NH2 groups such as polylysine, in particular that sold by JNC Corporation (formerly Chisso); amino dextran, in particular that sold by the company CarboMer Inc;polyvinyl amino alcohol; in particular that sold by the company CarboMer Inc, acrylamido(Ci-C6)alkylamine-based copolymers, notably acrylamidopropylamine-based; and poly(D-Glucosamine) for example sold under the reference Kionutrime CSG® by the company Kytozyme.

[0386] According to a particular embodiment, polydimethylsiloxanes comprising primary amine groups at the end of the chain and / or on side chains are selected from the compounds of the following formula (VII):

[0387] Ra-Si(Rb)(Rc)-O-[Si(Rb)(Rc)-O]m-[Si(ALK1-NH2)(Ra)-O]n-Si(Rb)(Rc)-Ra(VII)

[0388] formula (VII) in which:

[0389] - Ra, identical or different, represents a hydroxy or (Ci-C4)alkyl group,

[0390] - Rb and Rc, identical or different, preferably identical, represent a group (Ci-C4)alkyl, such as methyl,

[0391] - ALK1 represents a linear or branched (Ci-C6)alkylene group, possibly in interrupted by a group N(H),

[0392] - m and n are integers greater than or equal to 1, preferably m and n are such that the average molecular mass by weight of the compound of formula (VII) ranges from 1000 g.mol1 to 500000 g.mol *.

[0393] According to a preferred embodiment, formula (VII) is such that Ra, Rb, and Rc represent a methyl group, ALK1 represents a propylene group, n and m are such that the values ​​of n and m are such that the weight-average molecular weight of polydimethylsiloxane ranges from 1000 g.mol1 to 55000 g.mol*.

[0394] Examples of polydimethylsiloxanes of formula (VI) include those sold under the names "AMS-132", "AMS-152", "AMS-162", "AMS-163", "AMS-191" and "AMS-1203" by the company Gelest.

[0395] According to another variant, formula (VII) is such that Ra represents a hydroxy or (CrC4)alkyl group, such as methyl, ALK1 represents a (C5-C6)alkylene group substituted by an NH group, preferably ALK1 represents -(CH2)3-N(H)-(CH2)2-, and m and n are such that the weight average molecular mass of the compound of formula (VI) ranges from 5000 g.mol1 to 500000 g.mol*.

[0396] As an amino polymer, polytetrahydrofurans (or polytetramethylene glycol) α, co-diamine, and polybutadienes α, co-diamine may also be cited.

[0397] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the (poly)amine compounds are selected from hyperbranched polymers comprising at least one amino group and dendrimers bearing at least one amino group, such as PAMAM polyamidoamine dendrimers with an ethylenediamine core and a terminal amine function.

[0398] According to a preferred embodiment, the composition comprises a crosslinking agent R selected from (poly)amine compounds, in particular selected from chitosans, aminoalkoxysilanes, polydimethylsiloxanes comprising amine groups primary at the end of the chain or on side chains, amodimethicones, polyglucosamines, spermidine, and their mixtures.

[0399] More preferably, the composition comprises a crosslinking agent R selected from chitosans, aminoalkoxysilanes and polydialkylsiloxanes comprising primary amine groups at the end of the chain or on side chains such as amodimethicones, and even more preferably selected from poly(D-Glucosamine), 3-aminopropyltriethoxysilane (APTES), 3-aminoethyltriethoxysilane (AETES), 3-aminopropylmethyldiethoxysilane, N-(2-aminoethyl)-3-aminopropyltriethoxysilane, spermidine, and polydimethyl-siloxanes comprising terminal amino groups at the end of the chain, such as Bis-Cetearyl Amodimethicone.

[0400] B) (Poly)thiol compounds

[0401] According to a preferred embodiment, the crosslinking agent R is chosen from (poly)thiol compounds also called “(poly)mercapto”.

[0402] The (poly)thiol compound may in particular be organic or inorganic, preferably organic.

[0403] In a preferred embodiment, the (poly)thiol compound is siliconed, that is to say, it comprises one or more thiol groups, it also comprises at least one siloxane chain.

[0404] In a particular embodiment, the (poly)thiol compound is inorganic. Polythiol silicones are an example.

[0405] The (poly)thiol compound can in particular be chosen from among non-polymeric (poly)thiol compounds.

[0406] By "non-polymer compounds", in the context of the present invention, we mean compounds that are not directly obtained by a polymerization reaction of monomers.

[0407] According to one embodiment of the invention, the (poly)thiol compound(s) is organic, non-polymeric, and of formula (VIII) below, as well as its solvates, such as its hydrates:

[0408] L(SH)q (VIII)

[0409] formula (VIII) in which:

[0410] - q, represents an integer greater than or equal to 2, preferably q is between in exclusively between 2 and 10, preferably between 2 and 5;

[0411] - L denotes a multivalent (at least divalent) group, in particular comprising between 1 and 500 carbon and / or silicon atoms, more particularly between 2 and 40 carbon and / or silicon atoms, even more particularly between 3 and 30 carbon and / or silicon atoms, preferably between 6 and 20 carbon atoms, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, or (hetero)cyclic, saturated or unsaturated; L being even actually interrupted and / or terminated by one or more heteroatoms or groups chosen from O, S, N, Si, C(X), and their combinations such as -O-, -OC(X)-, -N(R)-C(X)-, -Si(Rc)(Rd)-O- with R representing a hydrogen atom or a (Ci-C6)alkyl group, such as methyl; and / or L being optionally substituted by one or more groups chosen from: -N(Ra)Rb, and -(X')aC(X)-(X”)b-Ra; with X, X' and X”, identical or different, representing an oxygen atom, a sulfur atom, or an N(Rb) group; a and b being 0 or 1, preferably the sum of a + b is 1; Ra and Rb, whether identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom, or a (Ci-C6)alkyl, or aryl(Ci-C4)alkyl group, such as benzyl, preferably Ra and Rb represent a hydrogen atom; and Rc and Rd, whether identical or different, represent a (CrC6)alkyl, aryl(Ci-C4)alkyl or (Ci-C6)alkoxy group.

[0412] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the (poly)thiol compound(s) are chosen from among polythiol compounds, in particular polythiol compounds comprising from 2 to 20 carbon atoms.

[0413] According to a preferred embodiment, the (poly)thiol compound(s) are non-polymeric, in particular of formula (VIII) defined above, in which q is an integer greater than or equal to 2, preferably q is an integer inclusively between 2 and 10, preferably between 2 and 5.

[0414] The (poly)thiol compounds suitable for the invention are preferably dithiol compounds.

[0415] Preferably, L denotes a multivalent C8-Ci8 radical, in particular a linear one. Preferably, the fat-soluble polythiol is a C8-Ci8 dithiol, in particular a linear one. Preferably, the C8-Ci8 chain is a hydrocarbon chain, that is to say, composed of carbon and hydrogen. In particular, the fat-soluble polythiol is a linear C8-Ci6 diol, in particular a C10-Ci4 one. Examples of (poly)thiol compounds of formula (VII) include, in particular, 1,8-octanedithiol, 1,10-decanedithiol, 1,12-dodecanedithiol, 1,14-tetradecanedithiol, 1,16-hexadecanedithiol, and 1,18-octadecanedithiol. Preferably, 1,10-decanedithiol, 1,12-dodecanedithiol and / or 1,14-tetradecanedithiol are used, preferably 1,12-dodecanedithiol.

[0416] According to another particular embodiment of the invention, the (poly)thiolated compound(s) is selected from thiolated alkoxysiloxanes, such as those of formula (VIII') below:

[0417] R'1-Si(OR'2)z(R'3)x (VIII')

[0418] formula (VIII') in which:

[0419] - R' i is a linear or branched, saturated C1-C12 hydrocarbon chain or unsaturated, cyclic or acyclic, substituted by one or more groups chosen from among the thiol groups; and aryl, aryloxy, arylthio, arylamino, the aryl group being substituted by one or more thiol groups, or thiol(Ci-C6) alkyl, preferably thiol(Ci-C6) alkyl; and R\ is optionally interrupted in its hydrocarbon chain by one or more heteroatoms such as O, S, N, a carbonyl group C(O), or their association such as -C(O)-O- ester, or -C(O)-N(H)- amide, R\ being linked to the silicon atom directly via a carbon atom,

[0420] - R'2 and R'3, whether identical or different, represent an alkyl group, linear or branched, comprising from 1 to 6 carbon atom(s), preferably from 1 to 4 carbon atom(s), such as methyl,

[0421] - z denotes an integer from 1 to 3, and

[0422] - x denotes an integer from 0 to 2,

[0423] with z + x = 3.

[0424] Preferably, R'2 represents a linear or branched alkyl group, preferably linear comprising 1 to 4 carbon atoms, such as ethyl.

[0425] Preferably, R'3 represents a linear or branched alkyl group, preferably linear, comprising 1 to 4 carbon atoms, such as methyl or ethyl.

[0426] Preferably, R' i is an acyclic chain, in particular R' i is a Ci-C6 hydrocarbon chain, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, preferably saturated, substituted by one or more thiol groups, preferably substituted by a thiol group.

[0427] Preferably, R\ is a linear saturated Ci-C6 hydrocarbon chain substituted with a thiol group, and R'2 represents an alkyl group comprising 1 to 4 carbon atoms,

[0428] Preferably, R'3 represents an alkyl group comprising 1 to 4 carbon atoms.

[0429] Preferably, z is equal to 3.

[0430] According to a more particular embodiment of the invention, the thiolated alkoxysiloxanes are chosen from those of the following formula (IX):

[0431] (R1O)(R2)(R3)Si-[CH(R4)]t-[N(R'4)-L1]p-SH (IX)

[0432] formula (IX) in which:

[0433] - p is equal to 0 or 1;

[0434] -1 is an integer between 1 and 4, preferably 2;

[0435] - R1 represents a (Ci-C6)alkyl radical;

[0436] - R2 and R3, identical or different, preferably identical, are chosen from a (Ci-C6)alkyl group, in particular Ci-C4, such as methyl, and an (Ci-C6)alkoxy group, in particular (Ci-C4)alkoxy, such as methoxy;

[0437] - R4 and R'4, whether identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom, or a (Ci-C6)alkyl group, such as methyl;

[0438] - L1 represents a divalent, saturated, linear or branched hydrocarbon radical in Ci-C20.

[0439] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the thiolated alkoxysiloxane compounds are chosen from those of the following formula (IX'):

[0440] (R'1O)(R'2)(R'3)Si-CH(R4)-CH(R5)-(L2)q-SH (IX')

[0441] formula (IX') in which:

[0442] - q is equal to 0 or 1;

[0443] - X represents an oxygen or sulfur atom, preferably sulfur;

[0444] - R'1 denotes a (Ci-C6)alkyl radical;

[0445] - R'2 and R'3, identical or different, preferably identical, are chosen from a (Ci-C6)alkoxy group, in particular in Ci-C4, and a (Ci-C6)alkyl radical;

[0446] - R5 represents a hydrogen atom or an alkyl group in Ci-C4 possibly substituted by an amino, thiol or hydroxy group;

[0447] - R4 represents a hydrogen atom or an alkyl group in CrC4, in particular methyl;

[0448] - L2 represents a divalent hydrocarbon group, linear or branched, saturated at C1-C20, possibly interrupted by a heteroatom such as -N(H)-, and / or possibly substituted by one or more hydroxy, thiol or amino groups.

[0449] Preferably, the thiolated alkoxysilane(s) are selected from 4-(trimethoxysilyl)-l-butanol, 3-(trimethoxysilyl)-l-propanol, 3-(triethoxysilyl)-l-propanol, 11-(trimethoxysilyl)-l-undecanethiol, 4-(trimethoxysilyl)-2-butanethiol, 2-(triethoxysilyl)-ethanethiol, 3-(triethoxysilyl)-l-propanethiol, 2-(trimethoxysilyl)-ethanethiol, 3-(trimethoxysilyl)-l-propanethiol and 3-(dimethoxymethylsilyl)-l-propanethiol.

[0450] More preferably, the thiolated alkoxysilane(s) are chosen from 2-(triethoxysilyl)-ethanethiol (18236-15-2) and 3-(triethoxysilyl)-l-propanethiol (14814-09-6).

[0451] According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the (poly)thiol compound(s) are chosen from among the polymeric (poly)thiol compounds.

[0452] Polymeric (poly)thiol compounds can be homopolymers, copolymers, stars, combs, brushes, and dendritics with thiol motifs. The polymers can be of natural origin, such as polysaccharides and polypeptides, or synthetic, such as acrylics, polyesters, and polyglycols. The thiol motifs can be present as terminal or pendant groups.

[0453] Examples include the polymers described in the following documents: Polymers containing groups of biological activity, CG Overberger et al, Polytechnic Institute of Brooklyn, http: / / pac.iupac.org / publications / pac / pdf / 1962 / pdf / 0402x0521.pdf; EP 1 247 515 A2; US 3,676,440; and EP 1 572 778.

[0454] The polymeric (poly)thiol compounds of the invention are preferably or- organic and / or silicone-based, preferably of formula (X):

[0455] POLY(SH)q (X)

[0456] formula (X) in which:

[0457] - q is greater than or equal to 2, preferably greater than or equal to 3;

[0458] - POLY designates a polymeric radical, preferably carbon- or silicon-based; POLY being optionally interrupted by one or more heteroatoms or groups chosen from O, S, N, Si, C(X), and their combinations such as -O-, -OC(X)-, -N(R)-C(X)-, -Si(Rc)(Rd)-O- with R representing a hydrogen atom or a (Ci-C6)alkyl group such as methyl; and / or POLY being optionally substituted by one or more halogen atoms, or a group chosen from Ra(Rb)N- and -(X')aC(X)-(X”)b-Ra; X, X' and X”, identical or different, represent an oxygen atom, a sulfur atom, or an N(Rb) group; a, and b being 0 or 1, preferably the sum of a + b is 1; Ra and Rb, whether identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom, or an (Ci-CiO)alkyl, or aryl(Ci-C4)alkyl group, such as benzyl, preferably Ra and Rb represent a hydrogen atom; and Rc and Rd, whether identical or different, represent an (Ci-C10)alkyl, aryl(Ci-C4)alkyl or (Ci-C10)alkoxy group.

[0459] The methods for preparing the polymeric (poly)thiol compounds implemented according to the invention are known to those skilled in the art; several methods are described below without limitation. The polymeric (poly)thiol compounds implemented according to the invention can be obtained by polymerization, polycondensation of monomer units with thiol or protected thiol functions, optionally by co-polymerization or co-polycondensation of monomer units without thiol functions or protected thiol functions.

[0460] According to one embodiment of the invention, the polymeric (poly)thiol compounds used according to the invention are polymers soluble in cosmetic media, particularly in aqueous or hydroalcoholic media. They are more preferably obtained from amine polymers and their ammonium salts or from polyhydroxylated polymers.

[0461] According to another embodiment of the invention, the thiolated polymers used according to the invention are polymers soluble in lipophilic media.

[0462] According to one embodiment of the invention, the polythiol compound is a polymeric compound of formula (X) in which q denotes an integer greater than or equal to 2, and POLY denotes a carbon and / or silicon polymeric radical, preferably silicon, POLY further being able to contain one or more heteroatoms selected from O, N, S and / or one or more functions selected from the (thio)ester, (thio)ketone, (thio)amide, (thio)urea, (thio)carbamate functions, and / or be substituted by one or more linear or branched (Ci-Cio)alkyl, linear or branched (Ci-Cio)alkoxy groups, it being understood that when POLY is substituted, the thiol functions may to be carried by the substitute(s).

[0463] The average molecular weight in molar weight of polythiol polymer compounds, such as those of formula (X), is generally between 500 and 400000 g.mol*, preferably between 500 and 150000 g.mol*.

[0464] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the polythiol compounds are chosen from polyorganosiloxanes having thiol groups on terminal chains, such as those of formula (XI):

[0465] HS-L4-Si(Ra)(Rb)-O-[Si(Ra)(Rb)-O]n-Si(Ra)(Rb)-L5-SH (XI)

[0466] formula (XI) in which:

[0467] - Ra and Rb, identical or different, preferably identical, represent a group (Ci-C4)alkyl, such as methyl, (Ci-C4)alkoxy, such as methoxy, aryl, such as phenyl, aryloxy, such as phenoxy, aryl(Ci-C4)alkyl, such as benzyl, or aryl(CrC4)alkoxy, such as benzoxy, preferably (CrC4)alkyl, such as methyl,

[0468] - n represents an integer greater than or equal to 1, and more particularly the value of n is such that the average molecular weight by weight of silicone is between 500 and 55,000 g.mol1; particularly n is an integer between 1 and 100, preferably between 5 and 50, and preferably between 10 and 30, and

[0469] - L4 and L5, identical or different, preferably identical, represent a chain hydrocarbon comprising from 1 to 100 carbon atoms, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, possibly cyclic, possibly interrupted by one or more heteroatoms, such as oxygen, sulfur or nitrogen, in particular oxygen, in particular represent a covalent bond, a (Ci-C6)alkylene, (Ci-C6)alkylene-oxy, oxy-(Ci-C6)alkylene, (Ci-C6)alkylene-oxy(Ci-C6)alkylene, (Ci-C6)alkylene-oxy(Ci-C6)alkylenoxy or oxy(Ci-C6)alkylene-oxy(Ci-C6)alkylene, preferably a (CrC6)alkylene, (Ci-C6)alkylene-oxy, oxy-(Ci-C6)alkylene, or (Ci-C6)alkylene-oxy(Ci-C6)alkylene group.

[0470] Preferably, the (poly)thiol compounds are polythiol polyorganosiloxanes, more preferably polythiol polydimethylsiloxanes, in particular chosen from those of formula (XII):

[0471] HS-L4-Si(CH3)2-O-[Si(CH3)2-O]n-Si(CH3)2-L5-SH (XII)

[0472] formula (XII) in which:

[0473] - L4 and L5 are as defined previously in formula (XI), in particular L4 and L5 represent a (Ci-C6)alkylene, (Ci-C6)alkylene-oxy, oxy-(Ci-C6)alkylene, or (Ci-C6)alkylene-oxy(Ci-C6)alkylene group, more preferably a divalent group selected from -R2-, -O-R2-, -R2-O-, -R2-O-R2-, preferably -R2-O-R2-, with R2 representing a linear or branched (C2-C6)alkylene group, preferably linear, such as ethylene or propylene, preferably n-propylene; and

[0474] - n is such as defined in formula (XI).

[0475] As examples of polythiol compounds of formula (XII), we can cite mercaptosiloxane or thiol siloxanes, in which the thiol functions are located at the ends of the chain, marketed by the company SHIN-ETSU under the reference X-22-167B and mercaptosiloxane, in which the mercapto functions are pendant, marketed by the company SHIN-ETSU under the reference KF-2001, or polydimethylsiloxane in which the thiol functions are located at the ends of the chain by thio-n-propyl, 80-120 groups marketed by Gelest under the name DMS - SM 21.

[0476] Preferably, the polythiol compounds are polyorganosiloxanes having thiol groups on side chains such as those of formula (XIII):

[0477] Ra-Si(Rb)(Rd)-O-[Si(Ra)(Rb)-O]m-[Si(Rb)(ALK1-SH)-O]n-Si(Rb)(Rd)-Ra (XIII)

[0478] formula (XIII) in which:

[0479] - Ra, and Rb, are such as defined in formula (XI) and Rd is such as defined for Ra and Rb, preferably Ra, Rb, and Rd, which are identical, represent a (Ci-C6)alkyl group, such as methyl;

[0480] - Rd can also represent a (Ci-C6)alkyl group substituted by a (Ci- C4)alkylamino or amino, or thiol, preferably (Ci-C4)alkyl, such as methyl;

[0481] - ALKi represents a divalent hydrocarbon chain comprising from 1 to 100 carbon atoms, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, possibly cyclic, possibly interrupted by one or more heteroatoms such as oxygen, sulfur or nitrogen, especially oxygen, a (thio)carbonyl group C(X) with X representing O, or S, or their combinations such as -O-, -OC(O)- or -C(O)-O-, preferably ALKi represents a (Ci-C6)alkylene group, more preferably (CrC4)alkylene, such as propylene;

[0482] - n and m, whether identical or different, represent an integer greater than 2, and more particularly the values ​​of m and n are such that the average molecular weight by weight of said polyorganosiloxane is between 1000 and 55000 g.mol *.

[0483] Examples of polythiol compounds of formula (XIII) include those sold by Genesee Polymers under the names GP-367, GP-71-SS, GP-800 and GP-710s, preferably GP-367, marketed by Genesee Polymers.

[0484] Polythiol compounds include polydimethylsiloxanes having at least two thiol groups, such as, for example, the products SMS-022, SMS-042 and SMS-992 sold by the company Gelest in https: / / www.gpcsilicones.com / products / silicone-fluids / mercapto-functional, https: / / www.shinetsusilicone-global.com / products / type / oil / detail / search / deg07.shtml, and 1053_Reactive Silicones_Silanes / Silicones - Gelest.

[0485] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the (poly)thiol compounds are chosen from hyperbranched polymers comprising at least one thiol group and dendrimers bearing at least one thiol group such as thiolated PAMAMs.

[0486] Preferably, the (poly)thiol compounds implemented according to the invention are chosen from polydiallylsiloxanes, in particular polydimethylsiloxanes, comprising at least two thiol groups such as those of formula (XIII).

[0487] C) (Poly)acrylate compounds

[0488] According to a particular embodiment, the crosslinking agent is a (poly)acrylate compound.

[0489] By "(poly)acrylate" is meant a compound comprising at least one acrylate ester group H2C=C(Re)-C(O)-Y- with Re representing a hydrogen atom or (C i-C4)alkyl group, such as methyl, preferably Re representing a hydrogen atom, and Y representing an oxygen atom or an amino group -N(H)-, preferably an oxygen atom.

[0490] More specifically, the (poly)acrylate(s) of the invention are of formula (XIV):

[0491] L[-YC(O)-C(Re)=CH2]q (XIV)

[0492] formula (XIV) in which q and L are such as defined in formula (VIII), Y and Re being such as defined previously, preferably Y = O and Re = H.

[0493] According to a preferred embodiment, the compounds of formula (XIV) are such that L represents a di or trivalent hydrocarbon chain, preferably trivalent, comprising from 1 to 8 carbon atoms, q is 2 or 3, preferably 3, Y represents O, and Re represents a hydrogen atom.

[0494] According to a particular embodiment, the (poly)acrylate compounds are selected from polyorganosiloxanes comprising at least one acrylate group on the side chain such as those of formula (XV):

[0495] Ra-Si(Rb)(Rd)-O-[Si(Ra)(Rb)-O]m-[Si(Rb)(ALKrY-C(O)-C(Re)=CH2)-O]n-Si(Rb)(Rd)-Ra (XV)

[0496] formula (XV) in which:

[0497] - Ra, Rb, and Rd are such as defined in formula (XIII), preferably Ra, Rb, and Rd represent a (Ci-C6)alkyl group, such as methyl,

[0498] - ALKi is such as defined for formula (XIII), preferably ALKi represents a (Ci-C6)alkylene group, more preferably (Ci-C4)alkylene, such as propylene,

[0499] - n and m, identical or different, represent an integer greater than 2, and more particularly the values ​​of m and n are such that the average molecular weight by weight of said polyorganosiloxane is between 1000 and 55000 g.mol ',

[0500] - Y is as defined previously, preferably is an oxygen atom.

[0501] More particularly, the (poly)acrylate compound may be selected from 1,3-butanedioldiacrylate, 1,4-butanedioldiacrylate, di(trimethylolpropane) tetraacrylate, glycerol 1,3-diglycerol diacrylate, glycerol propoxylate (1PO / OH) triacrylate, 1,6-hexanediol diacrylate, 1,6-hexanediol ethoxylate diacrylate, hydroxypivalyl hydroxypivalate, neopentyl glycol diacrylate, neopentyl glycol propoxylate (1P0 / 0H) diacrylate, pentaerythritol tetraacrylate, pentaerythritol triacrylate, poly(propylene glycol) diacrylate, tricyclo[5.2.1.02,6]decanedimethanol diacrylate, trimethylolpropane ethoxylate (1E0 / 0H) methyl ether diacrylate, tri-methylolpropane propoxylate triacrylate, trimethylolpropane triacrylate, trimethy-lolpropane trimethacrylate, tri(propylene glycol) diacrylate, and tris[2-(acryloyloxy)ethyl] isocyanurate.

[0502] The (poly)acrylate compound can also be selected from N,N'-methylene bis-acrylamide.

[0503] According to this embodiment, the (poly)acrylate compound is associated in its implementation with an amine catalyst as described for example in the articles Progress in coating 129, 21-25 (2019) and Progress in coating 135, 510-516 (2019). Preferably, the amine catalyst(s) are chosen from piperidine, DMAP (Dimethylaminopyridine), DBU (1,8-diazabicyclo[5.4.0]undec-7-ene), DABCO (1,4-diazabicyclo[2.2.2]octane), DBN (1,5-Diazabicyclo[4.3.0]non-5-ene), more preferably chosen from DBU (1,8-diazabicyclo[5.4.0]undec-7-ene), DABCO (1,4-diazabicyclo[2.2.2]octane), DBN (1,5-Diazabicyclo[4.3.0]non-5-ene), and in particular the catalyst is DBU (1,8-Diazabicyclo[5.4.0]undec-7-ene).

[0504] More particularly, (poly)acrylate compounds are selected from those of formula (XIV), in particular trimethylolpropane triacrylate, and those of formula (XV), in particular copolymers of dimethylsiloxane and acryloxypropyl)methylsiloxane.

[0505] D) Metal alkoxides

[0506] According to a particular embodiment, the crosslinking agent R is a compound selected from the following metal alkoxides of formulas (XIVa), (XIVb), (XIVC) and (XIVd), and mixtures thereof: M-(0R1)n (XIVa) RM-(0R1)n.1 (XIVb) (R10)nl-MR”-M'-(0R1')n,1 (XIVC) RM(R')-(0R1)n 2 (XXIVd)

[0507] formulas (XIVa), (XIVb), (XIVC) and (XIVd) wherein:

[0508] - M and M', identical or different, represent an atom chosen from among the metals alkaline earth metals, transition metals, lanthanide family metals, post-transition metals such as aluminium or tin and metalloids, such as boron, preferably transition metals, such as Ti, and post-transition metals, such as aluminium;

[0509] - n and n' represent respectively the valences of the atoms represented by M and M';

[0510] - Ri and Ri, whether identical or different, represent a linear hydrocarbon group or branched, saturated or unsaturated, having from 1 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, said hydrocarbon group being optionally interrupted by 1 to 20 heteroatoms selected from O, N, S and P, in particular O or N, and / or said hydrocarbon group being optionally substituted by one or more hydroxy or carbonyl groups; - R and R', identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or a hydrocarbon group, linear, branched, acyclic or cyclic, saturated or unsaturated, having from 1 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably from 2 to 20 carbon atoms, possibly interrupted by 1 to 20 heteroatoms chosen from O, N, S and / or P, in particular O or N and / or said hydrocarbon group possibly being substituted by one or more hydroxy or carbonyl groups;

[0511] - R” represents -O-, -N(R2)-, -S- or a linear, hydrocarbon divalent group, cyclic or branched, saturated or unsaturated, having from 1 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably from 2 to 20 carbon atoms, optionally interrupted by 1 to 20 heteroatoms chosen from O, N, S and P, especially O or N, with R2 representing a hydrocarbon group, linear, cyclic or branched, saturated or unsaturated, having from 1 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably from 2 to 20 carbon atoms.

[0512] Preferably, M and M', identical or different, represent an atom chosen from among the transition metals, such as titanium, or zirconium or the alkaline earth metals such as magnesium, more preferably chosen from among the transition metals, such as titanium or zirconium, even more preferably titanium.

[0513] Preferably, the organometallic compound(s) are chosen from alkoxides of formula (XIVa) as defined above. According to this preferred embodiment, the organometallic compound(s) are more particularly chosen from alkoxides of formula (XIVa), in which M represents an atom chosen from among the transition metals, the lanthanide metals, the post-transition metals, such as aluminum, tin, the metalloids, such as boron, or the alkaline earth metals, such as magnesium or calcium; n represents the valence of the atom represented by M; Ri represents a saturated, linear or branched hydrocarbon group having from 1 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably from 1 to 6 carbon atoms.

[0514] According to another more preferred embodiment, the organometallic compound(s) are selected from alkoxides of formula (XIVa), in which M represents an atom selected from transition metals, such as zirconium or titanium, lanthanide metals, post-transition metals, such as aluminum, tin, metalloids, such as boron, and alkaline earth metals, such as magnesium, preferably M represents a titanium atom; n represents the valence of the atom represented by M, in particular 1, 2, 3 or 4, especially 4; Ri represents a methyl, ethyl, 2-ethylhexyl, propyl, isopropyl, n-butyl, isobutyl or t-butyl group.

[0515] According to a further preferred embodiment, the organometallic compound(s) are selected from zirconium ethoxide (Zr(OC2H5)4), zirconium propoxide (Zr(OCH2CH2CH3)4), zirconium isopropoxide (Zr(OCH(CH3)2)4), zirconium butoxide (Zr(OCH2CH2CH2CH3)4), zirconium tert-butoxide (Zr(OC(CH3)3)4), titanium ethoxide (Ti(OC2H5)4), titanium propoxide (Ti(OCH2CH2CH3)4), titanium isopropoxide (Ti(OCH(CH3)2)4), titanium butoxide (Ti(OCH2CH2CH2CH3)4), titanium tert-butoxide (Ti(OC(CH3)3)4), the 2-1'ethylhexyl titanium oxide (Ti(OCH2CH(C2H5)(CH2)3CH3)4), and mixtures thereof, more preferably chosen from zirconium propoxide, titanium propoxide, titanium butoxide and mixtures thereof.

[0516] More preferably, the crosslinking agent R is a compound of formula (XXIVa), preferably in which M represents an atom selected from among the transition metals, in particular titanium, such as titanium butoxide.

[0517] E) (Poly)carbonyl compounds

[0518] According to a particular embodiment, the crosslinking agent R is a (poly)carbonyl compound.

[0519] In particular, the (poly)carbonyl compound is selected from terephthalaldehyde, 5,5-dimethyl-1,3-cyclohexanedione, phenylglyoxal, isophthalaldehyde, 4-acetylbenzaldehyde, 4,4-diformyltriphenylamine, 2-acetylbenzaldehyde, 3-(2-furoyl)quinoline-2-carboxaldehyde, 3-(2-furoyl)quinoline-2-carboxaldehyde, 3-acetylbenzaldehyde, 9-(2-ethylhexyl)carbazole-3,6-dicarboxaldehyde, phthal-dialdehyde, 1,3-cyclohexanedione, 4,4'-biphenyldicarboxaldehyde, benzene-1,3,5-tricarboxaldehyde, and nonionic or anionic oxidized polysaccharides such as oxidized inulins, in particular those of formula (II) as defined below. In particular, (poly)carbonyl compounds comprise a C5-C7 carbocycle, saturated or unsaturated, aromatic, preferably aromatic, such as phenyl, or non-aromatic and saturated such as cyclohexyl, more preferably unsaturated and aromatic, such as terephthaledhyde.

[0520] According to a particular embodiment, the (poly)carbonyl compound(s) are chosen from non-ionic or anionic oxidized polysaccharides comprising one or more aldehyde groups, and optionally one or more anionic groups.

[0521] It is understood that oxidized polysaccharides differ from compounds of formula (I) in that they do not comprise a group:

[0522] [Chem. 19]

[0523] with R2, Ra, Rb, and X as defined in formula (I).

[0524] These anionic groups are preferably carboxy or carboxylate groups.

[0525] The non-ionic or anionic oxidized polysaccharides according to the invention can be represented by the following formula (XX):

[0526] P-(CHO)m (COOQ)n (XX)

[0527] formula (XX) in which:

[0528] - P represents a polysaccharide chain, preferably made up of monosaccharides - charides comprising 5 or more carbon atoms, preferably 6 or more than 6 carbon atoms, and more particularly 6 carbon atoms;

[0529] - Q is chosen from a hydrogen atom, ions from an alkali metal or alkaline earths, such as sodium, potassium, ammonia, organic amines, such as monoethanolamine, diethanolamine, triethanolamine and 3-amino pro-panediol-1,2 and basic amino acids, such as lysine, arginine, sarcosine, omithine, citrulline;

[0530] - m + n is greater than or equal to 1;

[0531] - m is such that the degree of substitution of the polysaccharide by one or more aldehyde groups (DS(CHO)), is in the range from 0.001 to 2, preferably from 0.005 to 1.5;

[0532] - n is such that the degree of substitution of the polysaccharide by one or more carboxylic groups (DS(COOX)), is in the range from 0 to 2, preferably from 0.001 to 1.5.

[0533] By degree of substitution DS(CHO) or DS(COOX) of the polysaccharides according to the invention, we mean the ratio between the number of carbons oxidized to an aldehyde or carboxylic group for all repeating units and the number of elementary monosaccharides (even those opened by pre-oxidation) constituting the polysaccharide. The CHO and COOX groups can be obtained during the oxidation of certain carbon atoms, for example on carbon atoms 2, 3, or 6, of a 6-carbon saccharide unit.

[0534] Preferably, the oxidation can take place in carbon 2 and 3, more particularly from 0.01% to 75% by number, and preferably from 0.1% to 50% by number of the rings that may have been opened.

[0535] The polysaccharide chain, represented by P, is preferably selected from celluloses, starches, maltodextrins, guar gums, xanthan gums, pullulan gums, agar-agar gums, carrageenan gums, gellan gums, gum arabic, polyxylans and tragacanth gums and their derivatives.

[0536] By derivative, we mean the compounds obtained by chemical modification of the aforementioned compounds. These may be esters, amides, or ethers of said compounds.

[0537] Oxidation can be carried out according to a process known in the art, for example according to the process described in FR 2 842 200, in document FR 2 854 161 or in the article “Hydrophobic films from maize bran hemicelluloses” by E. Fredon et al, Carbohydrate Polymers 49, pages 1 to 12 (2002).

[0538] Another oxidation process is described in the article “Water soluble oxidized starches by peroxide reaction extrusion” Industril Crops and Products 7, RE Wing, JL Willet 45-52 (1997).

[0539] According to this embodiment, the (poly)carbonyl compound is associated in its implementation with an amine catalyst, as described in the articles Progress in coating 129, 21-25 (2019) and Progress in coating 135, 510-516 (2019). Preferably, the amine catalyst(s) are chosen from piperidine, DMAP (Dimethylaminopyridine), DBU (1,8-diazabicyclo[5.4.0]undec-7-ene), DABCO (1,4-diazabicyclo[2.2.2]octane), DBN (1,5-Diazabicyclo[4.3.0]non-5-ene), more preferably chosen from DBU (1,8-diazabicyclo[5.4.0]undec-7-ene), DABCO (1,4-diazabicyclo[2.2.2]octane), DBN (1,5-Diazabicyclo[4.3.0]non-5-ene), and in particular the catalyst is DBU (1,8-Diazabicyclo[5.4.0]undec-7-ene).

[0540] According to a preferred embodiment, the crosslinking agent is chosen from compounds A) (poly)amines, B) (poly)thiols, C) (poly)acrylates, and preferably from compounds A) (poly)amines and B) (poly)thiols.

[0541] In particular, said (poly)amine compounds A) are selected from a) chitosans, such as poly(D-Glucosamine), b) diamine polyethers, particularly polyethylene glycol α,co-diamine (with an amine function at the chain end), c) triamine polyethers, such as polyetheramine (or jeffamine), d) aminoalkoxysilanes, such as APTES, e) spermidine, and f) polydialkylsiloxanes comprising primary amine groups at the chain end or on side chains, particularly polydimethylsiloxanes comprising primary amine groups, such as bis(3-aminopropyl)-terminated poly(dimethoxysiloxane) (PDMS-diNH2), and amo-dimethicones comprising amine groups on side chains, such as bis-cetearyl amodimethicone, in particular the one marketed by Momentive Performance Materials.

[0542] According to a preferred embodiment, said (poly)amine compounds A) are chosen among a) chitosans, such as poly(D-Glucosamine), c) triamine polyethers, such as Polyetheramine (or jeffamine), e) spermidine and f) polydialkylsiloxanes comprising primary amine groups at the end of the chain or on side chains, particularly polydimethylsiloxanes comprising primary amine groups, such as bis(3-aminopropyl)-terminated poly(dimethoxysiloxane) (PDMS-diNH2) and amodimethicones comprising amine groups on side chains such as bis-cetearyl amodimethicone, notably that marketed by Momentive Performance Materials.

[0543] In particular, said (poly)thiol compounds B) are selected from a) polydialkylsiloxanes with thiol functions, and b) alkoxysilanes with thiol functions, particularly are selected from a) polydialkylsiloxanes with thiol functions, preferably polydimethylsiloxanes comprising thiol groups on the side chain (such as mercaptopropyl), especially those of formula (XIII).

[0544] In particular, said (poly)acrylate C) compounds are selected from those of formula (XIV) in particular trimethylolpropane triacrylate, and those of formula (XV) in particular copolymers of dimethylsiloxane and acryloxypropyl)methylsiloxane, preferably trimethylolpropane triacrylate.

[0545] According to a preferred embodiment, the crosslinking agent(s) is / are chosen from:

[0546] A) (poly)amine compounds selected from:

[0547] ia) chitosans such as poly(D-Glucosamine),

[0548] ib) diamine polyethers, in particular polyethylene glycol a, co-diamine, with an amine function at the end of the chain,

[0549] ic) triamine polyethers, in particular polyetheramine (or jeffamine),

[0550] id) aminoalkoxysilanes, in particular APTES,

[0551] ie) spermidine, and

[0552] if) polydialkylsiloxanes comprising primary amine groups at the end of the chain or on side chains, in particular polydimethylsiloxanes comprising primary amine groups, more particularly poly(dimethoxysiloxane) terminated by bis(3-aminopropyl) (PDMS-diNH2) and amodimethicones comprising amine groups on side chains, more particularly bis-cetearyl amo-dimethicone;

[0553] B) (poly)thiol compounds selected from:

[0554] iia) thiol-functionalized polydialkylsiloxanes, and

[0555] iib) alkoxysilanes with thiol functions,

[0556] and in particular selected from compounds (iia) polydialkylsiloxanes with thiol functions, preferably from polydimethylsiloxanes comprising thiol groups on the side chain, in particular mercaptopropyl, and more particularly chosen from the compounds of formula (XIII):

[0557] Ra-Si(Rb)(Rd)-O-[Si(Ra)(Rb)-O]m-[Si(Rb)(ALKrSH)-O]n-Si(Rb)(Rd)-Ra (XIII)

[0558] formula (XIII) in which:

[0559] - Ra and Rb, identical or different, preferably identical, represent a group (Ci-C4)alkyl, in particular methyl, a (Ci-C4)alkoxy group, in particular methoxy, an aryl group, in particular phenyl, an aryloxy group, in particular phenoxy, an aryl(CrC4)alkyl group, in particular benzyl, or an aryl(CrC4)alkoxy group, in particular benzoxy, and preferably a (CrC4)alkyl group, more preferably methyl,

[0560] - Rd represents a (CrC4)alkyl group, in particular methyl, a (CrC4 )alkoxy, in particular methoxy, an aryl group, in particular phenyl, an aryloxy group, in particular phenoxy, an aryl(CrC4)alkyl group, in particular benzyl, an aryl(CrC4)alkoxy group, in particular benzoxy, or a (Ci-C6)alkyl group substituted by a (Ci-C4)alkylamino, amino, or thiol group, and preferably a (Ci-C4)alkyl group, more preferably methyl,

[0561] and preferably Ra, Rb, and Rd, are identical and represent a (Ci-C6)alkyl group, more preferably methyl,

[0562] - ALKi represents a divalent hydrocarbon chain comprising from 1 to 100 carbon atoms, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, possibly cyclic, possibly interrupted by one or more heteroatoms, such as oxygen, sulfur or nitrogen, in particular oxygen, a (thio)carbonyl group C(X) with X representing O or S, or their combinations, in particular -O-, -OC(O)- or -C(O)-O-, preferably ALKi represents a (Ci-C6)alkylene group, more preferably (CrC4)alkylene, even more preferably propylene,

[0563] - n and m, whether identical or different, represent an integer greater than 2, and in par in particular the values ​​of m and n are such that the average molecular weight by weight of said polyorganosiloxane is between 1000 and 55000 g.mol1; and

[0564] C) (poly)acrylate compounds of formula (XIV):

[0565] L[-YC(O)-C(Re)=CH2]q (XIV)

[0566] formula (XIV) in which:

[0567] - q represents an integer greater than or equal to 2, in particular n is included in exclusively between 2 and 10, and preferably between 2 and 5,

[0568] - L denotes a multivalent group that is at least divalent, in particular comprising between 1 to 500 carbon and / or silicon atoms, more particularly between 2 and 40 carbon and / or silicon atoms, even more particularly between 3 and 30 carbon and / or silicon atoms, preferably between 6 and 20 carbon atoms, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, or (hetero)cyclic, saturated or unsaturated; L being optionally interrupted and / or terminated by one or more heteroatoms or groups chosen from O, S, N, Si, C(X), and their associations, in particular -O-, -OC(X)-, -N(R)-C(X)-, -Si(Rc)(Rd)-O- with R representing a hydrogen atom or a (Ci-C6)alkyl group, in particular methyl; and / or L being optionally substituted by one or more groups chosen from: -N(Ra)Rb, and -(X')aC(X)-(X”)b-Ra, with X, X' and X”, identical or different, representing an oxygen atom, a sulfur atom, or an N(Rb) group, a and b being 0 or 1, preferably the sum of a and b being 1, Ra and Rb, identical or different, representing a hydrogen atom, a (Ci-C6)alkyl group, or an aryl(Ci-C4)alkyl group, in particular benzyl, preferably Ra and Rb represent a hydrogen atom, and Rc and Rd, identical or different, represent a (Ci-C6)alkyl, aryl(Ci-C4)alkyl or (Ci-C6)alkoxy group,

[0569] - Re represents a hydrogen atom or an (CrC4)alkyl group, in particular methyl, preferably Re, represents a hydrogen atom, and

[0570] - Y represents an oxygen atom or an amino group -N(H)-, preferably a oxygen atom,

[0571] preferably Y is an oxygen atom and Re is a hydrogen atom, preferably L represents a di or trivalent hydrocarbon chain, preferably trivalent, comprising from 1 to 8 carbon atoms, q is 2 or 3, preferably 3, and

[0572] more preferably the compounds of formula (XIV) are trimethylolpropane triacrylate.

[0573] COSMETIC ACTIVES iv)

[0574] According to a particular embodiment, the process of the invention further comprises the application of iv) at least one cosmetic active ingredient, on said keratinous materials.

[0575] More particularly, in the treatment process according to the invention, at least one of the compositions "Cl", "C2", "C3", "C4" or "C5" implemented comprises one or more cosmetic active ingredients.

[0576] In particular, the cosmetic active ingredient(s) iv) is / are chosen from:

[0577] a) coloring materials (or coloring agents), in particular selected from pigments, direct colorants and mixtures thereof,

[0578] b) active ingredients for the care of keratinous materials, preferably of the skin,

[0579] c) UV filters, and

[0580] d) their mixtures.

[0581] According to a particular embodiment, at least one cosmetic agent is chosen from coloring materials, preferably chosen from pigments, direct colorants and their mixtures, more preferably pigments.

[0582] Of course, a person skilled in the art will take care to choose this or these possible cosmetic active ingredients, and / or their quantity, in such a way that the advantageous properties of the corresponding composition according to the invention are not, or substantially not, altered by the envisaged addition.

[0583] COLORING MATERIALS

[0584] According to a particular embodiment, the process of the invention uses one or more coloring materials.

[0585] More particularly, in the process of the invention, at least one of the compositions "Cl", "C2", "C3", "C4" or "C5" implemented, comprises at least one coloring matter, particulate or not, water-soluble or not, and preferably at a rate of at least 0.01% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition considered.

[0586] For obvious reasons, this quantity is likely to vary significantly with regard to the intensity of the color effect sought and the colonic intensity provided by the coloring materials considered and its adjustment clearly falls within the competence of the person skilled in the art.

[0587] Preferably, at least one of the compositions "Cl", "C2", "C3", "C4" or "C5" comprises at least one colouring material selected from pigments, direct dyes and their mixtures, more preferably pigments.

[0588] More preferably, the pigment(s) of the invention are chosen from carbon black, iron oxides, in particular yellow, red and black and iron oxide coated micas, triarylmethane pigments, in particular blue and violet, in particular BLUE 1 LAKE, azo pigments, in particular red, more particularly D&C RED 7, the alkali metal salt of lithol red, in particular the calcium salt of lithol red B, and even more preferably from red iron oxides, yellow iron oxides and azo pigments, in particular red, more particularly D&C RED 7.

[0589] PIGMENTS

[0590] For the purposes of this invention, "pigment" means any compound capable of imparting color to keratinous materials. These compounds have a solubility in water at 25 °C and atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg) of less than 0.05% by weight, and preferably less than 0.01% by weight.

[0591] Suitable pigments for the invention may include, in particular, organic and / or mineral pigments known in the art, especially those described in Kirk-Othmer's Encyclopedia of Chemical Technology and Ullmann's Encyclopedia of Industrial Chemistry.

[0592] These pigments can be synthetic or natural.

[0593] These pigments can be in the form of powder or pigment paste.

[0594] They may be coated or uncoated.

[0595] These pigments can, for example, be chosen from mineral pigments, organic pigments, lacquers, special effect pigments such as mother-of-pearl or glitter, and mixtures thereof.

[0596] A pigment suitable for the invention can be chosen from among mineral pigments.

[0597] By "mineral pigment" is meant any pigment that meets the definition in the Ullmann Encyclopedia in the chapter on inorganic pigments. Examples of mineral pigments useful in the present invention include manganese violet, ultramarine blue, chromium hydrate, ferric blue, and oxides or dioxides of titanium, zirconium, or cerium, as well as oxides of zinc, iron, or chromium.

[0598] It may also be a pigment having a structure that is, for example, of the sericite / brown iron oxide / titanium dioxide / silica type. Such a pigment is marketed, for example, under the reference Coverleaf NS or JS by Chemicals And Catalysts and has a contrast ratio close to 30. It may also be a pigment having a structure that is, for example, of the silica microspheres containing iron oxide type. An example of a pigment with this structure is that marketed by Miyoshi under the reference PC Bail PC-LL-100 P, this pigment being composed of silica microspheres containing yellow iron oxide.

[0599] Advantageously, the pigments may be iron oxides and / or titanium dioxides.

[0600] A pigment suitable for the invention can be chosen from among organic pigments.

[0601] By "organic pigment" is meant any pigment that meets the definition in the Ullmann Encyclopedia in the chapter on organic pigments. Examples of organic pigments useful in the present invention include nitroso, nitro, azo, xanthene, pyrene, quinoline, quinoline, anthraquinone, triphenylmethane, fluorane, phthalocyanine, metal complex type, isoindolinone, isoindoline, quinacridone, perinone, perylene, diketopyrrolopyrrole, indigo, thioindigo, dioxazine, triphenylmethane, and quinophthalone.In particular, white or colored organic pigments may be chosen from carmine, carbon black, aniline black, azo yellow, quinacridone, phthalocyanine blue, blue pigments coded in the Color Index under references CI 42090, 69800, 69825, 74100, 74160, yellow pigments coded in the Color Index under references CI 11680, 11710, 19140, 20040, 21100, 21108, 47000, 47005, green pigments coded in the Color Index under references CI 61565, 61570, 74260, orange pigments coded in the Color Index under reference CI 11725, 45370, 71105, the red pigments coded in the Color Index under the references CI 12085, 12120, 12370, 12420, 12490, 14700, 15525, 15580, 15620, 15630, 15800, 15850, 15865, 15880, 26100, 45380, 45410, 58000, 73360, 73915, 75470, the pigments obtained by oxidative polymerization of in-dole, phenolic derivatives as described in patent FR 2 679 771. .

[0602] By way of example, one can also cite organic pigment pastes such as the products sold by the company HOECHST under the name: COSMENYL YELLOW IOG: Pigment YELLOW 3 (CI 11710); COSMENYL YELLOW G: Pigment YELLOW 1 (CI 11680); COSMENYL ORANGE GR: Pigment ORANGE 43 (CI 71105); COSMENYL RED R: Pigment RED 4 (CI 12085); CARMIN COSMENYL FB: Pigment RED 5 (CI 12490); VIOLET COSMENYL RL: Pigment VIOLET 23 (CI 51319); COSMENYL BLUE A2R: Pigment BLUE 15.1 (CI 74160); COSMENYL GREEN GG: Pigment GREEN 7 (CI 74260); COSMENYL BLACK R: Pigment BLACK 7 (CI 77266).

[0603] The pigments according to the invention can also be in the form of composite pigments as described in patent EP 1 184 426. These composite pigments can be composed in particular of particles comprising an inorganic core, at least one binder ensuring the fixation of organic pigments on the core, and at least one organic pigment covering at least partially the core.

[0604] The organic pigment can also be a lacquer.

[0605] By "lacquer" is meant dyes adsorbed onto insoluble particles, the whole thus obtained remaining insoluble during use.

[0606] Examples of inorganic substrates on which dyes are adsorbed include alumina, silica, calcium sodium borosilicate or calcium aluminum borosilicate, and aluminum. Carminic acid is one example of a dye adsorbed onto organic substrates. Other colorants known by the following names include: D&C Red 21 (CI 45380), D&C Orange 5 (CI 45370), D&C Red 27 (CI 45410), D&C Orange 10 (CI 45425), D&C Red 3 (CI 45430), D&C Red 4 (CI 15510), D&C Red 33 (CI 17200), D&C Yellow 5 (CI 19140), D&C Yellow 6 (CI 15985), D&C Green (CI 61570), D&C Yellow 10 (CI 77002), D&C Green 3 (CI 42053), D&C Blue 1 (CI 42090), FDC Red 4, D&C Red 6, D&C Red 22, D&C Red 28, D&C Red 30, D&C Orange 4, D&C Yellow 8, D&C Green 5, D&C Red 17, D&C Green 6, D&C Yellow 11, D&C Violet 2, Sudan red, carotenes (beta-carotene, lycopene),Xanthophylls (capsanthin, capsorubin, lutein), palm oil, Sudan brown, quinoline yellow, annatto, curcumin, betanin (beetroot), carmine, copper chlorophyllin, methylene blue, anthocyanins (enocianin, black carrot, hibiscus, elderberry), caramel, riboflavin, beetroot juice, and caramel.

[0607] As examples of lacquers, we can cite the product known under the following name: D & C Red 7 (CI 15 850 :1).

[0608] The pigment can also be a special effects pigment.

[0609] By "special effect pigments" is meant pigments which generally create a colored appearance (characterized by a certain shade, a certain vibrancy and a certain clarity) that is non-uniform and changes depending on the viewing conditions (light, temperature, viewing angles, etc.). They are thus distinguished from colored pigments which provide a uniform opaque, semi-transparent or conventional transparent tint.

[0610] There are several types of special effect pigments, those with a low refractive index such as fluorescent or photochromic pigments, and those with a higher refractive index such as mother-of-pearl, interference pigments or glitter.

[0611] The size of the pigment used in the composition according to the present invention is generally between 10 nm and 200 µm, preferably between 20 nm and 80 µm, and more preferably between 30 nm and 50 µm.

[0612] The pigments can be dispersed within the composition by means of a dispersing agent.

[0613] This dispersing agent may be a surfactant, an oligomer, a polymer, or a mixture of several of these, bearing one or more functionalities having a strong affinity for the surface of the particles to be dispersed. In particular, they may bind physically or chemically to the surface of the pigments. These dispersants further have at least one functional group that is compatible with or soluble in the continuous medium.In particular, esters of 12-hydroxystearic acid are used, especially C8 to C2o fatty acids and polyols such as glycerol, diglycerin, such as poly(12-hydroxystearic) acid stearate with a molecular weight of about 750 g / mol such as that sold under the name Solsperse 21 000 by the company Avecia, poly(12-hydroxystearic) stearate (name CTFA) sold under the reference Dehymyls PGPH by the company Henkel or polyhydroxystearic acid such as that sold under the reference Arlacel P100 by the company Uniqema and their mixtures. Other dispersants that can be used in the compositions of the invention include quaternary ammonium derivatives of polycondensed fatty acids such as Solsperse 17000 sold by Avecia, and polydimethylsiloxane / oxypropylene mixtures such as those sold by Dow Corning under the references DC2-5185, DC2-5225 C.The pigments used in the composition may be surface-treated with an organic agent. In one particular embodiment, the dispersing agent(s) are of the amino-silicone type, different from the alkoxysilanes described above, and are cationic. Preferably, the pigment(s) is / are chosen from mineral, mixed mineral-organic, or organic pigments.

[0614] According to a particular embodiment, the pigment(s) according to the invention are organic pigments, preferably organic pigments treated on the surface by an organic agent chosen from silicone compounds.

[0615] According to another embodiment of the invention, the pigment(s) according to the invention are mineral pigments.

[0616] DIRECT DYES

[0617] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the cosmetic active ingredient is a coloring material chosen from one or more direct colorant(s).

[0618] By "direct colorant" is meant natural and / or synthetic colorants, different from oxidation colorants. These are colorants that will diffuse superficially onto The fiber. They can be ionic or non-ionic, preferably cationic or non-ionic.

[0619] Among the direct dyes suitable for the invention, mention may be made of azo direct dyes; (poly)methine dyes such as cyanines, hemicyanines and styryls; carbonyl dyes; azine dyes; nitro(hetero)aryl dyes; tri(hetero)arylmethane dyes; porphyrin dyes; phthalocyanine dyes and natural direct dyes, alone or in the form of mixtures.

[0620] Direct dyes are preferably cationic direct dyes. Examples include hydrazono cationic dyes of formulas (A) and (B) below and azo cationic dyes of formulas (C) and (D) below:

[0621] Hét+-C(Ra)=NN(Rb)-Ar, Q (A)

[0622] Hét+-N(Ra)-N=C(Rb)-Ar, Q (B)

[0623] Het+-N=N-Ar, Q (C)

[0624] Ar+-N=N-Ar' ', Q (D)

[0625] formulas (A) to (D) in which:

[0626] - Het+ represents a cationic heteroaryl radical, preferentially with a ca charge endocyclic tionic such as imidazolium, indolium, or pyridinium, possibly preferentially substituted by at least one (Ci-C8)alkyl group such as methyl;

[0627] - Ar+ represents an aryl radical, such as phenyl or naphthyl, with a cationic charge exocyclic preferentially ammonium particularly tri(Ci-C8)alkyl-ammonium such as trimethylammonium;

[0628] - Ar represents an aryl group, in particular phenyl, possibly substituted, preferably by one or more electron-donating groups such as (CrC8)alkyl possibly substituted, (CrC8)alkoxy possibly substituted, (di)(CrC8)(alkyl)amino possibly substituted on the alkyl group(s) by a hydroxy group, aryl(Ci-C8)alkylamino, and N-(Ci-C8)alkyl-N-aryl(Ci-C8)alkylamino possibly substituted or else Ar represents a julolidine group;

[0629] - Ar” represents a (hetero)aryl group possibly substituted such that phenyl or pyrazolyl possibly substituted, preferably by one or more (CrC8)alkyl, hydroxy, (di)(Ci-C8)(alkyl)amino, (CrC8)alkoxy or phenyl groups;

[0630] - Ra and Rb, identical or different, representing a hydrogen atom or a (Ci-C8)alkyl group possibly substituted, preferably by a hydroxy group;

[0631] or else the substituent Ra with a Het+ substituent and / or Rb with an Ar substituent together with the atoms to which they bear a (hetero)cycloalkyl; particularly Ra and Rb, representing a hydrogen atom or a (C1-C4) group )alkyl possibly substituted by a hydroxy group;

[0632] - Q- represents an organic or mineral anionic counterion such as a halide or an alkyl sulfate.

[0633] In particular, one can cite the endocyclic cationic azo and hydrazono direct dyes of formula (A) to (D) as defined above.

[0634] More specifically, endocyclic cationic direct dyes described in patent applications WO 95 / 15144, WO 95 / 01772 and EP-714954.

[0635] Preferably, the direct dyes are chosen from the compounds with the following formulas (E) and (F):

[0636] [Chem.20]

[0637] (E)

[0638] [Chem.21]

[0639] (F)

[0640] formula (E) or (F) wherein:

[0641] - R1 represents an (Ci-C4)alkyl group such as methyl;

[0642] - R2 and R3, whether identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or a (Ci-C4)alkyl group such as methyl;

[0643] - R4 represents a hydrogen atom or an electron-donating group such as (Ci - C8)alkyl possibly substituted, (CrC8)alkoxy possibly substituted, (di)(CrC8 )(alkyl)amino possibly substituted on the alkyl group(s) by a hydroxy group; particularly R4 is a hydrogen atom;

[0644] - Z represents a CH group or a nitrogen atom, preferably CH;

[0645] - Q- is an anionic counterion as defined above, particularly ha lohenide such as chloride or an alkylsulfate such as methylsulfate or mesytyl.

[0646] In particular, the colorants of formula (E) and (F) are chosen from Basic Red 51, Basic Yellow 87 and Basic Orange 31 or their derivatives with Q- an anionic counter ion as defined above, particularly halide such as chloride or alkyl sulfate such as methyl sulfate or mesytyl. Direct dyes can be selected from anionic direct dyes. The anionic direct dyes of the invention are dyes commonly called "acid" direct dyes because of their affinity for alkaline substances.

[0647] By "anionic direct dyes" is meant any direct dye comprising in its structure at least one CO2R' or SO3R' substituent with R' designating a hydrogen atom or a cation from a metal or an amine, or an ammonium ion.

[0648] Anionic direct dyes may be selected from acidic nitro direct dyes, acidic azo dyes, acidic azinic dyes, acidic tria-rylmethane dyes, acidic indoamine dyes, acidic anthraquinone dyes, indigoids and acidic natural dyes.

[0649] Among the natural direct dyes that can be used according to the invention are lawsone, juglone, alizarin, purpurin, carminic acid, kermesic acid, purpurogallin, protocatechaldehyde, indigo, isatin, curcumin, spinulosin, apigenidine, and orceins. Extracts or decoctions containing these natural dyes, and in particular henna-based poultices or extracts, can also be used.

[0650] Preferably, the direct dyes are chosen from among the anionic direct dyes.

[0651] Colouring materials, preferably pigments, may be present in concentrations ranging from 0.01% to 30% by weight, preferably from 0.02% to 20% by weight, more particularly from 0.05% to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition which contains them.

[0652] The direct colorant(s) may be present in concentrations ranging from 0.001% to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.005% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition which contains them.

[0653] Preferably, the cosmetic active ingredient(s), in particular the colouring material(s), and more particularly the pigment(s), are introduced into at least one of the compositions "Cl", "C2", "C3", "C4" or "C5".

[0654] CARE ACTIVES

[0655] According to a particular embodiment, the process of the invention uses one or more active skincare ingredients.

[0656] More particularly, in the process of the invention, according to one embodiment, at least one of the compositions “Cl”, “C2”, “C3”, “C4” or “C5” used comprises one or more active ingredients, preferably at a concentration of at least 0.01% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition in question. In particular, the active ingredient may be at least one hydrophilic and / or one lipophilic active ingredient, and preferably a hydrophilic skincare active ingredient.

[0657] The term “hydrophilic active” means a water-soluble or water-dispersible active capable of forming hydrogen bonds.

[0658] The cosmetic active ingredient(s) may be chosen from among: a) vitamins and their derivatives, in particular their esters, especially tocopherol (vitamin E) and its esters (such as tocopherol acetate), ascorbic acid (vitamin C) and its derivatives; b) humectants, especially urea, hydroxyureas, glycerol, polyglycerols, glycerol glucoside, diglycerol glucoside, polyglyceryl glucoside, and xylityl glucoside, and in particular glycerol; c) C-glycoside compounds; d) antioxidant compounds; e) anti-aging actives, in particular hyaluronic acid compounds, and in particular sodium hyaluronate, retinol and its derivatives, salicylic acid compounds and in particular n-octanoyl-5-salicylic acid (capryloyl salicylic acid), caffeine, adenosine, c-beta-d-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxypropane and the sodium salt of 3-hydroxy-2-pentylcyclopentyl)acetic acid;f) skin care agents selected from allantoin, panthenol and protein hydrolysates; g) polyphenols, including escin, ruscus, diosmin, hesperidin, resveratrol, and h) mixtures thereof.

[0659] In particular, in the process of the invention, according to one embodiment, at least one of the compositions "Cl", "C2", "C3", "C4" or "C5" implemented comprises a moisturizing agent (also called a humectant). Preferably, the active ingredient is a moisturizing agent, and in particular is glycerin (glycerol).

[0660] The active ingredient(s) may in particular be present in the composition or container(s) in a content ranging from 0.01% to 30% by weight, relative to the weight of the composition, and preferably from 0.02% to 25% by weight.

[0661] UV FILTERS

[0662] According to one embodiment of the process of the invention, at least one of the compositions "Cl", "C2", "C3", "C4" or "C5" implemented includes, as a cosmetic active ingredient, at least one UV filter.

[0663] The UV filter(s) is a UV filter commonly used in cosmetics.

[0664] It can be chosen from the positive list contained in Annex VI of Regulation (EC) No 1223 / 2009, which specifies the list of UV filters authorized in cosmetics.

[0665] The UV filters suitable for the invention can be of different kinds.

[0666] They can be lipophilic, hydrophilic or insoluble organic.

[0667] By "lipophilic UV filter" is meant any cosmetic or dermatological filter capable of being completely dissolved in molecular form in a liquid oil phase or of being solubilized in colloidal form (for example in micellar form) in a liquid oil phase.

[0668] By "hydrophilic UV filter" is meant any cosmetic or dermatological filter capable of being completely dissolved in molecular form in a liquid aqueous phase or of being solubilized in colloidal form (for example in mi-cell form) in a liquid aqueous phase.

[0669] By "insoluble UV filter" is meant any cosmetic or dermatological filter that is neither defined as a lipophilic UV filter nor as a hydrophilic UV filter, and that is in the form of particles in an aqueous or oily liquid phase. The UV filters of the composition according to the invention can provide UVA and / or UVB photoprotection.

[0670] According to a preferred embodiment, the compositions, preferably cosmetic, may include at least one organic and / or mineral UV filter (filters of UV radiation from sunlight).

[0671] In particular, the UV filter(s) are selected from bis-resorcinyl triazine derivatives, dibenzoylmethane derivatives, benzylidene camphor derivatives, and mixtures thereof. Organic UV filters may also be selected from anthra-nilic derivatives; cinnamic derivatives; salicylic derivatives; benzophenone derivatives; phenyl benzotriazole derivatives; benzalmalonate derivatives, particularly those cited in US patent 5,624,663; phenyl benzimidazole derivatives; imidazolines; 4,4-diarylbutadiene derivatives; bis-benzoazolyl derivatives, as described in EP patents 6,693,230 and US patents 2,463,264; and p-aminobenzoic acid (PABA) derivatives. the derivatives of methylene bis-(hydroxyphenyl benzotriazole), as described in applications US 5 237 071, US 5 166 355, GB 2303549, DE 197 26 184 and EP 893 119;Benzoxazole derivatives, as described in patent applications EP 0 832 642, EP 1 027 883, EP 1 300 137 and DE 10162844; filter polymers and filter silicones such as those described in particular in application WO 93 / 04665; α-alkylstyrene-derived dimers such as those described in patent application DE 19855649; 4,4-diarylbutadienes as described in applications EP 0 967 200, DE 19746654, DE 19755649, EP 1 008 586, EP 1 133 980 and EP 133 981; other merocyanine derivatives such as those described in applications WO 04006878, WO 05058269 and WO 06032741 and mixtures thereof.

[0672] According to a particular embodiment, the concentration of organic UV filters in the compositions varies from 1% to 50% by weight, preferably from 1% to 40% by weight, and even, for example, from 5% to 35% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0673] The UV filter(s) may be mineral UV filters, which are generally pigments. The pigments may be coated or uncoated.

[0674] Thus, mineral UV filters can be chosen from coated or uncoated pigments, and in particular from coated titanium oxide pigments, oxides of titanium treated with silicone, uncoated titanium oxide pigments, uncoated zinc oxide pigments, coated zinc oxide pigments, uncoated cerium oxide pigments, uncoated iron oxide pigments, coated iron oxide pigments, and mixtures thereof.

[0675] According to a particular embodiment, the compositions “Cl” to “C5” are devoid of mineral UV filters.

[0676] According to a particular embodiment, the quantity of the mineral UV filter(s) present in compositions "Cl", "C2", "C3", "C4" or "C5" can range from 0.01% to 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition containing them. For example, it ranges from 1% to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0677] According to a particular embodiment, at least one of the compositions "Cl" to "C5" further comprises one or more organic UV filters and one or more mineral UV filters.

[0678] According to a particular embodiment, the compositions comprise an association of UV filters as described in French patent FR 2 977 490, application WO 2013 / 004777 or US application 2014 / 0134120.

[0679] Preferably, the process for treating keratinous materials, in particular keratinous fibers, and the compositions "Cl", "C2", "C3", "C4" or "C5" implement or comprise one or more coloring materials selected from pigments, direct dyes and their mixtures, preferably pigments; more preferably the pigment(s) of the invention are selected from carbon black, iron oxides in particular yellow, red and black and micas coated with iron oxide, triarylmethane pigments in particular blue and violet such as BLUE 1 LAKE, azo pigments in particular red such as D&C RED 7 alkali metal salt of lithol red such as the calcium salt of lithol red B, even more preferably red iron oxides, yellow iron oxides and azo pigments in particular red such as D&C RED 7.

[0680] FAT PHASE - FAT BODY

[0681] According to a particular embodiment, the process of the invention uses v) one or more fatty substances, in particular one or more oils, preferably volatile.

[0682] In particular, at least one of the compositions “Cl”, “C2”, “C3”, “C4” or “C5” implemented in the process of the invention contains a fatty phase.

[0683] In particular, at least one of the compositions "Cl", "C2", "C3", "C4" or "C5" implemented in the process of the invention comprises one or more fatty substances, in particular one or more oils, preferably volatile.

[0684] By "oil" is meant a liquid fat at room temperature (20 °C) and atmospheric pressure (760 mm of Hg).

[0685] By "hydrocarbon oil" is meant an oil formed essentially, or even composed, of carbon and hydrogen atoms, and possibly of oxygen and nitrogen atoms, and not containing silicon or fluorine atoms. It may contain alcohol, ester, ether, carboxylic acid, amine and / or amide groups.

[0686] According to one embodiment of the invention, the oil(s) v) is / are chosen from volatile oils, in particular:

[0687] - hydrocarbon oils having 8 to 16 carbon atoms, in particular branched C8-Ci6 alkanes, in particular isoalkanes, more particularly iso-alkanes (also called isoparaffins), preferably Ci3-Ci6 Isoparaffin, isododecane, isodecane, isohexadecane, for example oils sold under the trade names Isopars or Permetyls, alone or in mixtures, preferably isododecane (also called 2,2,4,4,6-pentamethylheptane), linear alkanes, in particular Cn-Ci6, alone or in mixtures, in particular hexane, decane, undecane, tridecane, isoparaffins in particular n-dodecane (Ci2) and n-tetradecane (Ci4), the undecane-tridecane mixture, mixtures of n-undecane (Cn) and n-tridecane (Ci3), and their mixtures as well as mixtures of n-undecane (Cn) and n-tridecane (Ci3), and non-aromatic cyclic alkanes, in volatile C5-Ci2;

[0688] - short-chain esters having from 3 to 8 carbon atoms in total, in particular ethyl acetate, methyl acetate, propyl acetate, n-butyl acetate;

[0689] - hydrocarbon oils with a carbonate structure of R'i-OC(O)-O-R'2 in which R'i and R'2 independently designate a linear, branched or cyclic C4-C8 alkyl group, preferably a C4-C8 alkyl group, advantageously, more preferably chosen from dibutylcarbonate or dipentylcarbonate;

[0690] - the ether oils of formula RrO-R2, in which Ri and R2 denote, inde hanging from each other, a linear, branched or cyclic C4-C8 alkyl group, preferably a C4-C8 alkyl group;

[0691] - silicone oils, in particular comprising 2 to 7 silicon atoms, and comprising, possibly, alkyl or alkoxy groups having from 1 to 10 carbon atoms, in particular dimethicones of viscosity 5 and 6 cSt, cyclopentadimethyl-siloxane, dodecamethylpentasiloxane, cyclohexadimethylsiloxane, octamethyl cyclotetrasiloxane, decamethyl cyclopentasiloxane, dodecamethyl cyclohexa-siloxane, heptamethyl hexyltrisiloxane, heptamethyloctyl trisiloxane, hexamethyl disiloxane, octamethyl trisiloxane, decamethyl tetrasiloxane, dodecamethyl pentasiloxane, and mixtures thereof;

[0692] more preferably the volatile oil(s) v) are chosen from among the C8-Ci6 alkanes, in particular branched, preferably isododecane.

[0693] In particular, at least one of the compositions "Cl", "C2", "C3", "C4" or "C5" implemented in the process according to the invention comprises one or more non-volatile oil(s), preferably chosen from:

[0694] - non-volatile fluorinated oils, in particular selected from fluorinated polyethers, fluorosilicone oils, fluorinated silicones;

[0695] - non-volatile silicone oils, in particular selected from non-silicones volatiles with the following INCI names: dimethicone, dimethiconol, trimethyl pentaphenyl trisiloxane, tetramethyl tetraphenyl trisiloxane, diphenyl dimethicone, trimethylsi-loxyphenyl dimethicone, phenyltrimethicone, diphenylsiloxy phenyl trimethicone, and their mixtures;

[0696] - non-volatile non-polar hydrocarbon oils, in particular selected from the linear or branched compounds, of mineral or synthetic origin: i) paraffin oil, ii) squalane, isoeicosane, iii) mixtures of linear hydrocarbons, saturated, more particularly in Ci5-C28, in particular mixtures whose INCI names are (Ci5-Ci9)alkane, (Ci8-C2i)alkane, (C2i-C28)alkane, iv) polybutenes, hydrogenated or not, v) polyisobutenes, hydrogenated or not, preferably hydrogenated, vi) polydecenes, hydrogenated or not, vii) decene / butene copolymers, butene / isobutene copolymers and viii) their mixtures;

[0697] - non-volatile polar hydrocarbon oils that may be selected from:

[0698] (i) fatty alcohols, saturated, unsaturated, linear or branched, of C10-C26, preferably mono-alcohols; in particular, C10-C26 alcohols are fatty alcohols, preferably branched when they comprise at least 16 carbon atoms; preferably, the fatty alcohol comprises from 10 to 24 carbon atoms, and more preferably from 12 to 22 carbon atoms, in particular lauryl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, oleic alcohol, 2-butyloctanol, 2-undecyl pentadecanol, 2-hexyldecyl alcohol, isocetyl alcohol, octyldodecanol and mixtures thereof;

[0699] ii) triglycerides consisting of esters of fatty acids and glycerol, in particular of which the fatty acids may have chain lengths ranging from C4 to C36, and in particular from C[8 to C36, these oils being linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated; by way of examples, one may mention in particular heptanoic or octanoic triglycerides, caprylic / capric acid triglycerides; vegetable oils such as wheat germ, sunflower, grapeseed, sesame, corn, apricot kernel, castor, shea, avocado, olive, soybean, sweet almond, palm, rapeseed, cottonseed, hazelnut, macadamia, jojoba, alfalfa, poppy, pumpkin, squash, blackcurrant, evening primrose, millet, barley, quinoa, rye, safflower, candlenut, passionflower, rosehip, peanut, coconut, argan, passionflower, kaya;the liquid fraction of shea butter, and the liquid fraction of cocoa butter, as well as mixtures thereof;

[0700] iii) linear aliphatic hydrocarbon esters of formula RC(O)-OR' in where RC(O)-O- represents the carboxylic acid remainder comprising from 2 to 40 carbon atoms, and R' represents a hydrocarbon chain containing from 1 to 40 carbon atoms, the aliphatic hydrocarbon esters of alkylene glycol, in particular ethylene glycol or propylene glycol; the total number of carbon atoms being in particular at least 10;in particular selected from isoamyl laurate, cetostearyl octanoate, isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, isopropyl stearate or isostearate, ethyl palmitate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, isostearyl isostearate, octyl stearate, isostearyl heptanoate, octanoates, decanoates or ricinoleates of alcohols or polyalcohols such as propylene glycol dioctanoate, cetyl octanoate, tridecyl octanoate, ethyl 2-hexyl palmitate, alkyl benzoate, polyethylene glycol diheptanoate, propylene glycol diethyl 2-hexanoate and mixtures thereof, hexyl laurate, neopentanic acid esters such as isodecyl neopentanate, isotridecyl neopentanate, isostearyl neopentanate, octyl-2-docecyl neopentanate, isononanoic acid esters, in particular isononyl isononanoate, isotridecyl isononanoate, octyl isononanoate, oleyl erucate;lauroyl isopropyl sarcosinate, diisopropyl sebacate, isocetyl stearate, isodecyl neopentanoate, isostearyl behenate, myristyl myristate;

[0701] iv) hydroxylated esters, in particular polyglycerol-2 triisostearate;

[0702] (v) aromatic esters, in particular tridecyl trimellitate, alcohol benzoate in C12-C15, the 2-phenyl ethyl ester of benzoic acid, butyl octyl salicylate;

[0703] vi) linear fatty acid esters having a total carbon number from 35 to 70, in particular pentaerythrityl tetrapelargonate;

[0704] vii) C24-C28 branched fatty alcohol or fatty acid esters, in particular triisoarachidyl citrate, pentaerythrityl tetraisononanoate, glyceryl triisostearate, glyceryl tridecyl-2-tetradecanoate, pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate, polyglyceryl-2 tetraisostearate or pentaerythrityl tetradecanoate;

[0705] viii) polyesters obtained by condensation of dimer and / or trimer of unsaturated fatty acid and diol, in particular of INCI name dilinoleic acid / butanediol copolymer, dilinoleic acid / propanediol copolymer; polyesters obtained by condensation of fatty acid dimer and diol dimer, in particular dilinoleyl dimer di-linoleate;

[0706] ix) synthetic ethers having 10 to 40 carbon atoms, in particular di-caprylyl ether;

[0707] x) di-alkyl carbonates, the 2 alkyl chains being either identical or different, in particular dicaprylyl carbonate;

[0708] xi) vinylpyrrolidone copolymers, in particular the vinylpyr-rolidone / l-hexadecene copolymer; and

[0709] xii) their mixtures;

[0710] - non-volatile carbonate oils can be selected from carbonates of formula R8-OC(O)-O-R9, with R8 and R9, identical or different, representing an alkyl chain from C4 to C12, and preferably from C6 to C10, linear or branched; the carbonate oils may be dicaprylyl carbonate (or dioctyl carbonate), di(ethyl-2-hexyl) carbonate, dipropylheptyl carbonate, dibutyl carbonate; di-neopentyl carbonate; dipentyl carbonate; di-neoheptyl carbonate; di-heptyl carbonate; di-isononyl carbonate; or di-nonyl carbonate; and preferably dioctyl carbonate;

[0711] - oils called non-volatile ether oils of formula RrO-R2 in which Ri and R2 independently denote a linear, branched, or cyclic C6-C24 alkyl group, preferably a C6-Ci8 alkyl group, and preferably a C8-Ci2 alkyl group. It may be preferable for Ri and R2 to be identical. Examples of linear alkyl groups include hexyl, heptyl, octyl, nonyl, decyl, undodyl, dodecyl, tridecyl, tetradecyl, pentadecyl, hexadecyl, heptadecyl, octadecyl, nonadecyl, eicosyl, behenyl, docosyl, tricosyl, and tetracosyl groups.Examples of branched alkyl groups include 1,1-dimethylpropyl, 3-methylhexyl, 5-methylhexyl, ethylhexyl, 2-ethylhexyl, 5-methyloctyl, 1-ethylhexyl, 1-butylpentyl, 2-butyloctyl, isotridecyl, 2-pentylnonyl, 2-hexyldecyl, isostearyl, 2-heptylundecyl, 2-octyldodecyl, 1,3-dimethylbutyl, l-(l-methylethyl)-2-methylpropyl, 1,1,3,3-tetramethylbutyl, 3,5,5-trimethylhexyl, l-(2-methylpropyl)-3-methylbutyl, and a group 3,7-dhnethyloctyl, and a 2-(l,3,3-trimethylbutyl)-5,7,7-trimethyloctyl group.Examples of cyclic alkyl groups include cyclohexyl, 3-methylcyclohexyl and 3,3,5-trimethylcyclohexyl, dilaury ether, diisostearyl ether, dioctyl ether, no-nylphenyl ether, dodecyl dimethyl butyl ether, cetyl dimethyl butyl ether, cetyl isobutyl ether and mixtures thereof; .

[0712] Preferably, the non-volatile oil(s) is / are chosen from among the polyisobutenes, hydrogenated or not, preferably hydrogenated, in particular the non-volatile compounds of the Parléam® range; C15-C19 Alkane mixtures, and from among the linear aliphatic hydrocarbon esters of formula RC(O)-OR' in which R- C(0)-0 represents a carboxylic acid remnant comprising 2 to 40 carbon atoms, and R' represents a hydrocarbon chain containing 1 to 40 carbon atoms, as defined above, in particular isononyl isononanoate.

[0713] More preferably, the process of the invention uses one or more hydrocarbon oils having 8 to 16 carbon atoms, and in particular C8-Ci6 branched alkanes, in particular isoalkanes, preferably Ci3-Ci6 isoparaffin, isododecane, isodecane, isohexadecane, alone or in mixtures, and more preferably isododecane.

[0714] In particular, the quantity of oil(s) in at least one of the compositions "Cl", "C2", "C3", "C4" or "C5" implemented in the process according to the invention ranges from 1% to 50% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, more particularly from 2% to 30% by weight, preferably from 3% to 20%, better from 5% to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0715] COMPOSITIONS

[0716] According to a preferred embodiment, the process for treating keratinic materials according to the invention uses water, and the composition(s) "Cl" to "C5" used in the process of the invention include water.

[0717] Thus, in particular, the composition “Cl” is aqueous or hydroalcoholic. Preferably, the composition “Cl” is aqueous.

[0718] In particular, composition “C2” is aqueous or hydroalcoholic. Preferably, composition “C2” is aqueous.

[0719] In particular, composition “C3” is aqueous or hydroalcoholic. Preferably, composition “C3” is aqueous.

[0720] In particular, composition “C4” is aqueous or hydroalcoholic. Preferably, composition “C4” is aqueous.

[0721] In particular, the composition “C5” is aqueous or hydroalcoholic.

[0722] In particular, the compositions “Cl”, “C2”, “C3”, “C4” and / or “C5”, preferably “Cl”, “C2” and / or “C3”, are aqueous.

[0723] According to a particular embodiment, the compositions "Cl", "C2", "C3", "C4" and / or "C5" are hydroalcoholic. In particular, they comprise an ethanol / water mixture, in particular in a volume ratio of between 1 / 99 and 99 / 1, more particularly between 10 / 90 and 90 / 10, even more particularly between 20 / 80 and 80 / 20, preferably 40 / 60 and 60 / 40, such as 50 / 50.

[0724] According to a particular embodiment, the compositions "Cl", "C2", "C3", "C4" and / or "C5" comprise an isododecane / ethanol mixture, in particular in a volume ratio of between 1 / 99 and 99 / 1, more particularly between 10 / 90 and 90 / 10, even more particularly between 20 / 80 and 80 / 20, preferably 40 / 60 to 60 / 40, such as 50 / 50.

[0725] According to a particular embodiment, the compositions “Cl”, “C2”, “C3”, “C4” or “C5” may be in anhydrous form, water-in-oil emulsion or oil-in-water emulsion.

[0726] According to a particular embodiment, composition "Cl" is anhydrous. In particular, composition "Cl" is anhydrous, and it comprises at least one oil, in particular volatile, preferably isododecane.

[0727] According to a particular embodiment, composition "C2" is anhydrous. In particular, composition "C2" is anhydrous, and it comprises at least one oil, in particular volatile, preferably isododecane.

[0728] According to a particular embodiment, composition "C3" is anhydrous. In particular, composition "C3" is anhydrous, and it comprises at least one oil, in particular volatile, preferably isododecane.

[0729] According to another particular embodiment of the invention, composition "C4" is anhydrous. According to another variant, composition "C5" is anhydrous.

[0730] The compositions “Cl” to “C5” implemented in the process of the invention may further comprise one or more organic solvents, distinct from the water-soluble solvent(s) with which the compound(s) of formula (I) can be implemented.

[0731] By "organic solvent" is meant an organic substance capable of dissolving another substance without chemically altering it.

[0732] Examples of organic solvents include: a) C2-C6 alkanols, such as ethanol and isopropanol; b) water-miscible polyols at room temperature (25 °C), in particular polyols having from 2 to 10 carbon atoms, preferably from 2 to 6 carbon atoms, such as glycerin, propylene glycol, 1,3-propanediol, butylene glycol, pentylene glycol, hexylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, diethylene glycol, diglycerin; c) polyol ethers such as 2-butoxyethanol, propylene glycol monomethyl ether, diethylene glycol monoethyl ether and monomethyl ether; and d) aromatic alcohols such as benzyl alcohol or phenoxyethanol, and mixtures thereof.

[0733] ​​According to a particular embodiment, the composition further comprises one or more polyols, in particular chosen from polyols having in particular from 2 to 10 carbon atoms, preferably having from 2 to 6 carbon atoms, preferably glycerin.

[0734] The compositions “Cl”, “C2”, “C3”, “C4” or “C5” implemented in the process of the invention may further comprise one or more adjuvants commonly used in cosmetics, in particular selected from thickeners, film-forming agents other than compounds of formula (I), gelling agents, trace elements, softeners, sequestrants, perfumes, alkalizing or acidifying agents, dispersing agents, preservatives, fillers, surfactants, anti-hair loss agents, anti-dandruff agents, anti-free radical agents, propellants, polar additives, polymers, or mixtures thereof.

[0735] Another object of the invention is a “C3” composition, preferably aqueous, comprising i) at least one compound of formula (I) and its optical, geometric isomers, its organic or mineral acid or base salts, and / or solvates, such as hydrates, as defined above, ii) at least one crosslinking agent, in particular as defined above, iv) at least one cosmetic active ingredient, in particular as defined above, and optionally iii) water.

[0736] Another object of the invention is the cosmetic use of the composition “C3” as defined above, for the treatment of keratinous materials, in particular for the care, styling and / or coloring of keratinous fibers, preferably hair.

[0737] A composition “Cl”, “C2”, “C3”, “C4” or “C5” is generally suitable for application on keratinous materials, in particular application on skin, lips and / or keratinous fibers, and therefore generally comprises a physiologically acceptable medium, i.e. compatible with keratinous materials, in particular application on skin, lips and / or keratinous fibers, including human keratinous fibers such as hair.

[0738] Preferably, this is a cosmetically acceptable medium, that is to say, one which has a pleasant colour, odor and feel and does not generate unacceptable discomforts, i.e. tingling, pulling, which may deter the user from applying this composition.

[0739] A composition "Cl", "C2", "C3", "C4" or "C5" may be in the form of a makeup product, in particular coloured, for the skin, in particular a foundation, possibly having care properties, a blush, a blush or eyeshadow, a concealer, an eyeliner; a lip makeup product such as a lipstick, possibly having care properties, a lip gloss, lip pencils; a makeup product for the hair and nails such as nails, eyelashes in particular in the form of a bar mascara, eyebrows and hair, a temporary tattoo product for the skin of the body.

[0740] According to a particular embodiment, a composition "Cl", "C2", "C3", "C4" or "C5" is presented in the form: - either a colored lip product; - either a skincare product, possibly coloured, in particular a cream or fluid with moisturising and / or filling and / or tightening properties; or - either a hair product, in particular a hair coloring product or a styling product, especially one without coloring matter, such as hairspray, or a so-called "styling" product such as mousse or gel.

[0741] KIT

[0742] According to yet another aspect, the present invention also relates to a kit or device, particularly a cosmetic one, with several compartments comprising:

[0743] - at least one compartment containing at least i) at least one compound of formula (I) as well as its optical, geometric isomers, its organic or mineral acid or base salts, and / or solvates, such as hydrates, as defined above, possibly iii) water, and possibly iv) at least one cosmetic active, in particular as defined above, in particular including the composition "Cl" as defined above;

[0744] - at least one compartment separate from that which contains i) and containing ii) at least a crosslinking agent, in particular as defined above, optionally iii) water, and optionally iv) at least one cosmetic active ingredient, in particular as defined above, in particular comprising composition 'C4' as defined above; and

[0745] - optionally, at least one compartment separate from those containing i) and ii), and containing iv) at least one cosmetic active ingredient, in particular as defined above, identical or different from that / those possibly contained in compartments comprising i) and ii).

[0746] The invention is illustrated in more detail by the examples shown below. Unless otherwise indicated, the quantities shown are expressed as mass percentages. Examples

[0747] METHODS AND MEASURES

[0748] SKIN APPLICATION

[0749] a) One-step protocol

[0750] The compounds of formula (I) with acetoacetate functions, and optionally the crosslinking agents, are mixed together before application. The system remains fluid long enough to allow application to the substrate.

[0751] The compositions are applied to a Bioskin-type vitro support from Maprecos (Bioskin plate #10) (elastomer skin-simulating support) using a film puller (wet thickness 100 µm). The deposit is left to dry for 24 hours.

[0752] After 24 hours of drying, the evaluations of the deposits are carried out according to the protocols described below.

[0753] b) Two-step protocol

[0754] A first composition, called a "base coat", is applied to a vitro substrate of Maprecos Bioskin type (Bioskin plate #10) (elastomer skin-simulating substrate) is applied using a film puller (wet thickness 100 µm). The deposit is left to dry for 24 hours.

[0755] After this first step, a second composition, called "top coat", is applied in the same way.

[0756] The deposit is left to dry for 24 hours.

[0757] After 24 hours of drying, the evaluations of the deposits are carried out according to the protocols described below.

[0758] RESISTANCE TO OLIVE OIL / SEBUM / WATER

[0759] 0.5 mL of olive oil, sebum or water is applied to the formulation film. After 5 minutes, the olive oil, sebum, or water is removed by 15 passes with a cotton ball. The deterioration of the film following contact with the droplet of the irritant is then observed.

[0760] In the case of a two-step protocol, for each combination, evaluations are conducted for the "base coat" composition alone after drying, and on the "base coat" + "top coat" composition system after drying, the objective being to observe the cosmetic properties improved by such combinations.

[0761] Resistance is evaluated according to the following scale:

[0762] +++ : Cosmetic property evaluated as very effective, no aggression to the deposit which is as it was originally;

[0763] ++: Cosmetic property rated as moderately effective, some transfer but the deposit is as it was originally;

[0764] + : Cosmetic property evaluated as performing poorly, the deposit is slightly altered and it is observed some transfer;

[0765] 0: Cosmetic property evaluated as not performing, the application is completely degraded and there is a lot of transfer onto the cotton.

[0766] MATITE EVALUATION

[0767] The formulas are applied using an applicator (wet thickness 100 pm) on a contrast chart (reference: byko-charts Opacity chart #2810).

[0768] Using a glossmeter, the gloss is measured at 20° (angle of incidence) of the card, then the gloss / matteness of the deposit 24 hours after application.

[0769] PROTOCOL FOR RESISTANCE OF GLOSS

[0770] The compositions, comprising a compound of formula (I), a mattifying agent (Stearalkonium hectorite, marketed under the reference Bentone 27 V CG, by the company Elementis), and / or a crosslinker and a solvent, are applied using an applicator (wet thickness 100 pm) on a contrast chart (reference: byko-charts Opacity chart #2810).

[0771] Using a glossmeter, the gloss is measured at 20° (angle of incidence) of the map then the gloss / matte of the deposit 24 hours after application.

[0772] Once dry, 0.5 ml of water, olive oil and sebum are deposited and left for 5 minutes.

[0773] The drops of aggressors are then rubbed with cotton (15 passes) and the measurement of the gloss / matteness is carried out on the aggressed area (average of 5 measurements).

[0774] HAIR COLOUR APPLICATION

[0775] The hair coloring evaluation protocol is detailed below:

[0776] The evaluations are conducted according to two different protocols: in 1 or 2 step(s), each on strands of natural hair that are 90% white.

[0777] a) One-step protocol

[0778] The compounds of formula (I) with acetoacetate functions, and optionally the crosslinking agents, are mixed together before application. The system remains fluid long enough to allow application to the substrate.

[0779] The composition is applied to strands of dry natural hair that are 90% white, at a rate of 1 g of composition per gram of strand.

[0780] The hair strands are left at room temperature for 5 minutes.

[0781] The hair strands are then combed and blow-dried for 3 minutes.

[0782] The hair strands are left at room temperature for 18 hours at 80% relative humidity. The hair is colored evenly and intensely.

[0783] The hair strands thus coloured are then subjected to a test of several repeated shampoos in order to evaluate the tenacity (the persistence) of the colour obtained to the shampoos, according to the shampoo protocol described below.

[0784] b) Two-step protocol

[0785] A first composition, called a "base coat," is applied to strands of dry, natural hair that is 90% white, at a rate of 0.5 g of the composition per gram of strand. The strands are then combed. This coating is applied to the keratinous materials and then left to dry for between 10 seconds and 24 hours, particularly between 1 minute and 1 hour, such as 30 minutes, at room temperature (25 °C). This drying step can be accelerated by subjecting the keratinous material to heat after application, for example, with a hairdryer.

[0786] After this first step, a second composition, called "top coat", is applied to the strand of hair, at a rate of 0.5 g per gram of strand.

[0787] After application, the hair strands are then combed and dried with a hairdryer.

[0788] The hair strands are left at room temperature for 24 hours under a fume hood. The hair is colored evenly and intensely.

[0789] The hair strands thus colored are then subjected to a test of several repeated shampoos to evaluate the tenacity (residual effect) of the color obtained with shampoos, according to the shampoo protocol described below.

[0790] SHAMPOO PROTOCOL

[0791] The colored hair strands are combed, moistened under water at 35°C before being passed between the fingers 5 times for 5 seconds. The hair strands are then squeezed dry between two fingers.

[0792] A standard shampoo (Garnier Ultra Doux) is applied evenly to the colored strands at a rate of 0.4 g of standard shampoo per gram of strands, gently massaging the strands of hair along their length (6 passes) for 15 seconds, from root to tip.

[0793] The strands of hair are then placed in a watch glass and left for 1 minute.

[0794] Next, the hair strands are rinsed with water by passing the strand between the fingers (15 passes). The hair strands are then squeezed dry between two fingers before the next shampoo.

[0795] Once the tests of several shampoos have been carried out, the strands of hair are combed and dried with a hairdryer.

[0796] REMAINENCE PROTOCOL

[0797] The persistence of the color of the highlights was evaluated in the CIE L*a*b* system, using a Minolta Spectrophotometer CM3600A colorimeter (illuminant D65, angle 10°, specular component included).

[0798] In this L*a*b* system, L* represents the intensity of the color, a* indicates the green / red color axis and b* the blue / yellow color axis.

[0799] The permanence of the color is assessed by the color difference AE between the colored strands before shampooing, and then after 1 and 3 shampoos according to the protocol described above. The lower the AE value, the more the color remains after shampooing.

[0800] The value of AE is calculated according to the following equation:

[0801] [Math.l]

[0802] In this equation, L*a*b* represent the values ​​measured after hair coloring and after shampooing, and L0*a0*b0* represent the values ​​measured after hair coloring but before shampooing.

[0803] STYLING APPLICATION: STYLING EVALUATION PROTOCOL

[0804] The styling evaluation protocol is detailed below:

[0805] 1) Application without crosslinking agent

[0806] 2 g of a solution containing the formulas described below are applied to a strand (90% Natural White BN hair, length 20.5 cm) spread on aluminum foil, then the strand is wrapped around a brush (approximate diameter of 2 cm over a length of 3 cm) and held by a hair clip for 24 h, then the strand is released from the support (brush + clip).

[0807] The length of the wick is measured immediately and 24 hours later, after storage at room temperature at 25 °C.

[0808] To check water resistance after 24 h measurements, the wicks are immersed in a water bath for 20 min then dried hanging at room temperature for 24 h and measured.

[0809] A comparison of loop retention is carried out between the compositions according to the invention and the comparative compositions.

[0810] 2) Application with crosslinking agent

[0811] 2 g of a solution containing the formulas described below (“Base coat”) are applied to a strand (90% Natural White BN hair, 20.5 cm long) laid on aluminum foil, then immediately after, 2 g of a solution containing at least one crosslinking agent is applied ("Top Coat"). The strand is wrapped around a brush (approximately 2 cm in diameter and 3 cm long) and held in place with a hair clip for 24 hours, then the strand is released from the support (brush + clip).

[0812] The wick length is measured immediately and 24 hours later, after storage at room temperature at 25 °C.

[0813] To check water resistance after 24 h measurements, the wicks are immersed in a water bath for 20 min then dried hanging at room temperature for 24 h and measured.

[0814] A comparison of loop retention is carried out between the compositions according to the invention and the comparative compositions.

[0815] EXAMPLE 1: Synthesis of Pullulan with acetoacetate function (polysaccharide 1)

[0816] Polysaccharide 1 was prepared according to the following scientific article “Enzyme-Responsive Biopolymeric Nanogel Fibers by Extrusion: Engineering of High-Surface-Area Hydrogels and Application in Bacterial Enzyme Detection”, ACS Applied Materials and Interfaces, 13(11), pp. 12928-12940 (2021).

[0817] In a three-necked flask (1 liter) fitted with a Dean-Stark apparatus and a condenser, 350 g of DMSO are introduced. The reaction mixture is heated to 90 °C and stirred using a magnetic stir bar. 42.5 g of pullulan is then added in successive stages, ensuring the complete solubility of each fraction added (addition over approximately 24 h). 23 g of tert-butyl acetoacetate is added dropwise via a pouring ampoule, and the mixture is then maintained at 120 °C for 2 h. After 2 h, the mixture is brought back to 60 °C.

[0818] The mixture is then introduced dropwise into cold isopropanol (ice bath) – a fractional addition in 5 x 600 ml. A paste is obtained and filtered through a Buchner funnel, dried (rotavapor at 45 °C), and then redissolved at 90 °C in DMSO. After cooling to room temperature, the mixture is introduced in fractions into cold acetone (4 x 600 ml) in an ice bath.

[0819] A white solid is obtained, which is then filtered through Buchner.

[0820] The product is then dried at 45 °C under reduced pressure (rotavapor), then under vacuum thrust (Schlenck line 50 °C, 8 h).

[0821] EXAMPLE 2: Synthesis of myristoyl Pullulan with acetoacetate function (polysaccharide 2)

[0822] [Chem.22]

[0823] The synthesis is represented by the following preparation scheme:

[0824] [Chem.23]

[0825] diagram in which: - m is as defined previously; - R11 is as defined previously; - R12, whether identical or different, represents a hydrogen atom or a group n-CHi3H27-C(O)-, it being understood that myristoyl pullulan has at least one CHnH27-C(O)- group.

[0826] In a three-necked flask (250 mL) equipped with a mechanical stirrer and a distillation column, 20 g of pullulan myristoyl and 100 g of tert-butyl acetoacetate are introduced. The reaction mixture is heated in an oil bath (oil bath temperature 150 °C–160 °C) for 10 h. The reaction mixture is then purified using a rotary evaporator at 150 °C under continuous vacuum, and 100 g of isododecane are added. The extract is rectified to 25% active material in isododecane. The polymer is obtained as a solution in isododecane.

[0827] EXAMPLE 3: Preparation of compositions A and B - Without crosslinking agent

[0828] Composition A comprising a polysaccharide compound of formula (I), and composition B, devoid of compound of formula (I), are prepared from the contents indicated in the table below. The contents are expressed as a percentage by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0829] [Table 1] Compounds Formula A (invention) Formula B (comparative) | Polysaccharide 1 (example 1) 15 Pullulait (marketed by the company) - 15 Red Iron Oxide (CI: 77491, Sunpuro Red Iron Oxide C33-8001, marketed by Sun)_____________ Water 5 qsp 100 5 qsp 100 J Table 1

[0830] Compositions A and B are prepared by simply mixing the ingredients detailed in Table 1 using a Speed ​​Mixer (a mixing device that uses centrifugal force) for 2 minutes, at 3500 rpm and at room temperature.

[0831] EXAMPLE 4: One-step skin application of compositions A and B (without crosslinker)

[0832] Evaluations in simplex formulas were conducted to show performance for skin application.

[0833] Compositions A and B are applied according to the 1-step skin application protocol described above.

[0834] The deposits are then evaluated according to the protocols for resistance to olive oil and sebum of the formulations on Bioskin.

[0835] The evaluation results are summarized in the table below:

[0836] [Tables2] Properties Resistance to olive oil Resistance to sebum Formula A (invention) Formula B (comparative) 4- Table 2

[0837] It appears that the application of composition A according to the process of the invention makes it possible to obtain a residual effect on sebum and olive oil, improved compared to the application of composition B.

[0838] We therefore obtain, thanks to the application of composition A according to the process of the invention, deposits resistant to daily chemical aggressions (sebum / olive oil).

[0839] EXAMPLE 5: Preparation of compositions C and D - With crosslinking agent

[0840] Compositions C and D are prepared from the contents indicated in the table below. The contents are expressed as a percentage by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition in question.

[0841] [Tables3] Formula C (Base Coat + Top Coat) (invention) Formula D (Base Coat + Top Coat) (comparative) Base Coat Polysaccharide 1 (example 1) 15 - Pullulan (marketed by Hayashibara) - 15 Red Iron Oxide (CI: 77491, Sunpuro Red Iron Oxide C33-800I, marketed by Sun) 5 5 Water q.s. 100 q.s. 100 Top Coat Fungal Chitosan: poly(D-Ghicosam) (Kiosmetine CSG, marketed by Kitozyme) 5 5 Water q.s. 100 q.s. 100 Table 3

[0842] The "Base Coat" compositions are prepared by simply mixing the ingredients detailed in Table 3 using a Speed ​​Mixer (a mixing equipment that uses centrifugal force) for 2 minutes, at 3500 rpm and at room temperature.

[0843] The "Top Coat" compositions are prepared by simply mixing the ingredients detailed in Table 3 using a Speed ​​Mixer (a mixing equipment that uses centrifugal force) for 2 minutes, at 3500 rpm and at room temperature.

[0844] EXAMPLE 6: Two-step skin application of compositions C and D (with crosslinking agent)

[0845] Compositions C and D are applied according to the 2-step skin application protocol described above.

[0846] The deposits are then evaluated according to the protocols for resistance to water and olive oil.

[0847] The evaluation results are summarized in the table below:

[0848] [Tables4] Properties Resistance Olive oil Water resistance Formula C (invention) "b':"}' Formula D (comparative) 4-i- 0 Table 4

[0849] It appears that the application of composition C according to the process of the invention makes it possible to obtain a water and olive oil resistance, improved compared to the application of composition D. The application of composition C according to the invention leads in particular to a water-resistant deposit.

[0850] We therefore obtain, thanks to the application of composition C according to the process of the invention, deposits resistant to daily chemical aggressions (water / olive oil).

[0851] EXAMPLE 7: Preparation of compositions E and F - With crosslinking agent

[0852] Compositions E and F are prepared from the contents indicated in the table below. The contents are expressed as a percentage by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition in question.

[0853] [Tables5] Formula E (Base Coat + Top Coat) (invention) Formula F (Base Coat + Top Coat) (comparative) Base Coat Polysaccharide 1 (free of 1J 15 - Prdhdan (marketed by Hayashibara) 15 Red Iron Oxide (CI: 77491, Sunpuro Red Iron Oxide C33-8OOL marketed by Sim) 5 5 Water q.s. 100 q.s. 100 Top Coat Bis-Cetearyl Amodimethicone (marketed by Momentive Performance Materials) 5 5 Isododecane q.s. 100 q.s. 100 Table 5

[0854] The "Base Coat" compositions are prepared by simply mixing the ingredients detailed in Table 5 using a Speed ​​Mixer (mixing equipment) which uses centrifugal force) for 2 minutes, at 3500 rpm and at room temperature.

[0855] The "Top Coat" compositions are prepared by simply mixing the ingredients detailed in Table 5 using a Speed ​​Mixer (a mixing equipment that uses centrifugal force) for 2 minutes, at 3500 rpm and at room temperature.

[0856] EXAMPLE 8: Two-step skin application of compositions E and F (with crosslinking agent)

[0857] Compositions E and F are applied according to the 2-step skin application protocol described above.

[0858] The deposits are then evaluated according to the water, olive oil and sebum resistance protocols of the formulations on Bioskin.

[0859] The evaluation results are summarized in the table below:

[0860] [Tableauxô] Properties Formula E (invention) Oil resistance Water resistance Sebum resistance Water resistance Formula F (comparative) -H- 4+ 0 Table 6

[0861] It appears that the application of composition E according to the process of the invention makes it possible to obtain a residual effect on water, sebum and olive oil, improved compared to the application of composition F.

[0862] We therefore obtain, thanks to the application of composition E according to the process of the invention, deposits resistant to daily chemical aggressions (water / sebum / olive oil).

[0863] EXAMPLE 9: Preparation of compositions G and H - With crosslinking agent

[0864] Compositions G and H are prepared from the contents indicated in the table below. The contents are expressed as a percentage by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition in question.

[0865] [Tables?] Formula G (Base Coat + Top Coat) (invention) Formula H (Base Coat + Top Coat) (comparative) Base Coat Polysaccharide 1 (example I) 15 *: Pullula (marketed by Hayashibara) - 15 Red Iron Oxide (CI: 77491, Simpuœ Red Iron Oxide C33-8001, marketed by Sun) 5 5 Water q.s. 100 q.s. 100 Top Coat [4-6% (mercaptopropy D-methylsiloxane]-dimethylsiloxane copolymer (molecular weight 6000-8000; CAS No. 102783-03-9, SMS-042 marketed by Gelest) 5 5 Isododecane q.s. 100 q.s. 100 W&7

[0866] The "Base Coat" compositions are prepared by simply mixing the ingredients detailed in Table 7 using a Speed ​​Mixer (a mixing equipment that uses centrifugal force) for 2 minutes, at 3500 rpm and at room temperature.

[0867] The "Top Coat" compositions are prepared by simply mixing the ingredients detailed in Table 7 using a Speed ​​Mixer (a mixing equipment that uses centrifugal force) for 2 minutes, at 3500 rpm and at room temperature.

[0868] EXAMPLE 10: Two-step skin application of compositions G and H (with crosslinking agent)

[0869] Compositions G and H are applied according to the 2-step skin application protocol described above.

[0870] The deposits are then evaluated according to the water, olive oil and sebum resistance protocols of the formulations on Bioskin.

[0871] The evaluation results are summarized in the table below:

[0872] [Tables8] Properties Formula G (invention) Resistant l Resistance Olive oil ] To sebum Water resistance Formula H (comparative) -rb ; -H- 0 Table 8

[0873] It appears that the application of composition G according to the process of the invention makes it possible to obtain a residual effect on water, sebum and olive oil, improved compared to the application of composition H.

[0874] We therefore obtain, thanks to the application of composition G according to the process of the invention, deposits resistant to daily chemical aggressions (water / sebum / olive oil).

[0875] EXAMPLE 11: Preparation of compositions I and J - With crosslinking agent

[0876] Compositions I and J are prepared from the contents indicated in the table below. The contents are expressed as a percentage by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition in question.

[0877] [Tables9] Formula I (Base Coat + Top Coat) (invention) Formula J (Base Coat + Top Coat) (comparative) Base Coat Top Coat Polysaccharide? (example 2) 20 Myrisloyl Puhuh-u by Katakura & Co-op Corporation} Isododecane Fi i s-Cê têa ry 1 A i nod nu êth Icône (marketed by Momentive Performance Materials) 5 20 wîoo 5 Isododecane qsp 100 qsp 100 Table 9

[0878] The "Base Coat" compositions are prepared by simply mixing the ingredients detailed in Table 9 using a Speed ​​Mixer (a mixing equipment that uses centrifugal force) for 2 minutes, at 3500 rpm and at room temperature.

[0879] Top Coat compositions are prepared by simply mixing the ingredients detailed in table 9 using a Speed ​​Mixer (a mixing equipment that uses centrifugal force) for 2 minutes, at 3500 rpm and at temperature.

[0880] EXAMPLE 12: Two-step skin application of compositions I and J - Evaluation of mattifying effect

[0881] Compositions I and J are applied according to the dullness evaluation protocol described above.

[0882] The evaluation results are summarized in the table below:

[0883] [TableauxlO] Gloss after 24 hours (value in "Gloss") Contrast card (reference; byko-| OpacHs ch-ut "28 Lb chart ""T v' 1 Amoduucthicone (marketed by Momentive | Performance Materials i 26.6 | Polysaccharide 2 (example 21 64.5 | Myristoyi Pullulan (marketed by Katakura & Co-op Agri j Corporation) 46.1 Formula I (invention) > 7 i Formula J (comparative) 33.18 Table 10

[0884] It appears that the application of composition I according to the process of the invention makes it possible to obtain a more matte crosslinked film compared to that obtained by the application of composition J.

[0885] EXAMPLE 13: Preparation of composition K - With crosslinking agent

[0886] Composition K is prepared from the contents indicated in the table below. The contents are expressed as a percentage by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition in question.

[0887] [Tables II] Formula K Compounds (Base Coat Top Coat) (inveMùm) Polysaccharide 2 (example 2) 20 Base Coat Stearolkwum hectorite (Beatone 27 V CG, marketed by Elemeiitis) 0.5 Isododecane qsp 100 Top Coat Bis-Celeryl Amodimetlcone (marketed by Momentive Performance Materials) 5 Isododecane qsp 100

[0888] The composition of "Base Coat" is prepared by simply mixing the ingredients detailed in Table 11 using a Speed ​​Mixer (a mixing equipment that uses centrifugal force) for 2 minutes, at 3500 rpm and at room temperature.

[0889] The composition of "Top Coat" is prepared by simply mixing the ingredients detailed in Table 11 using a Speed ​​Mixer (a mixing equipment that uses centrifugal force) for 2 minutes, at 3500 rpm and at room temperature.

[0890] EXAMPLE 14: Two-step skin application of composition K - Evaluation of the persistence of shine / matte

[0891] Composition K is applied according to the gloss / matte afterglow protocol described above.

[0892] The evaluation results are summarized in the table below:

[0893] [Tables 12] Gloss of contrast caries (value in UB = Gloss Unit) Gloss (value in Gloss) Gloss after rubbing -iiiOiiiiii (value in UB = Gloss Unit) Gloss after rubbing -Olive oil (value in UB = Gloss Unit) Gloss after rubbing -sebum (value in UB = Gloss Unit) Fcïîwde K. (invention) 45.2 7.2 6.8 4.7 5.8 Table 12

[0894] It appears that applying composition K according to the process of the invention makes it possible to obtain a matte crosslinked film. Furthermore, it appears that applying composition K according to the process of the invention makes it possible to significantly improve the permanence of the matte finish after exposure to water, olive oil, and sebum.

[0895] EXAMPLE 15: Preparation of composition L - With crosslinking agent

[0896] Composition L is prepared from the contents indicated in the table below. The contents are expressed as a percentage by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition in question.

[0897] [Tables 13] Formula L Compounds (Base Coat + Top Coat) (invention) Base Coat Polysaccharide 2 (example 2) 15 Red Iron Oxide (CI: 77491, Snnpuœ Red Iron Oxide C33-8001, marketed by Sun) 6 Isododecane q.s. 100 Top Coat Spemudme (Cas Nc 124-20-9, marketed by Sigma Aldrich) .ci Bis-Cetearyl Amodimethicone (marketed by Momentive Performance Materials) 5 Isododecane Άthaaol (90 / 10) q.s. 100

[0898] The composition of "Base Coat" is prepared by simply mixing the ingredients detailed in Table 13 using a Speed ​​Mixer (a mixing equipment that uses centrifugal force) for 2 minutes, at 3500 rpm and at room temperature.

[0899] The composition of "Top Coat" is prepared by simply mixing the ingredients detailed in Table 13 using a Speed ​​Mixer (a mixing equipment that uses centrifugal force) for 2 minutes, at 3500 rpm and at room temperature.

[0900] EXAMPLE 16: Application of hair colouring in 2 steps of composition L (with crosslinking agent)

[0901] Composition L is applied according to the 2-step hair colouring application protocol described above.

[0902] The evaluation results are summarized in the table below:

[0903] [Tables 14] Composition Number of shampoos 1 / a* b* AE Formulas L (Base Coat * Top Coat) 0 38.52 22.47 17.16 - (Invention) 3 38.58 21.5 17.01 0.963 Table 14: Colorimetric Measurements

[0904] The colored hair strands according to the invention have an AE value of less than 1. It therefore appears that the application of composition L according to the process of the invention makes it possible to obtain a very good colonic persistence.

[0905] EXAMPLE 17: Preparation of compositions M to P - Without crosslinking agent

[0906] Compositions M to P are prepared from the contents indicated in the table below. The contents are expressed as a percentage by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition in question.

[0907] [Tables 15] Compounds Formula M (comparative) Formula N (comparative) Formula O (invention) Formula P (comparative) Polysaccharide 1 (example U * - 10 Pnliulan (marketed by Hayashibara) * 10 Polyetheramine (W = 440 g / mbl, AHEW (81 g / eq)) (Jeffamine T403) - - - 10 Water 100 qsp 100 qsp 100 qsp 100

[0908] Compositions M to P are prepared by simply mixing the ingredients detailed in Table 15 using a Speed ​​Mixer (a mixing device that uses centrifugal force) for 2 minutes, at 3500 rpm and at room temperature.

[0909] EXAMPLE 18: Application of crosslinking-free compositions M to P (without crosslinking) - Evaluation of the loop

[0910] Compositions M to P are applied according to the curing protocol without crosslinking described above.

[0911] The results of the loop evaluations are summarized in the table below:

[0912] [Tables 16] Wicks On support (10) iiHiiii Formula M (comparative) 5 si 8 Formula N (comparative) 5 ; ■5 18 Formula O (invention) 5 1 ns Formula P (comparative) 5 8 18 Table 16 ————~

[0913] It appears that the application of composition O according to the process of the invention makes it possible to significantly improve the water retention of non-crosslinked wicks, compared to the application of compositions M, N and P.

[0914] EXAMPLE 19: Preparation of compositions Q and R - With crosslinking agent

[0915] Compositions Q and R are prepared from the contents indicated in the table below. The contents are expressed as a percentage by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition in question.

[0916] [Tables 17] Compounds Formula Q Formula R (Base Coat | (Base Coat + Top Coat) | Top Coat) (comparative) (application) Base Coat Polysaccharide 1 (example 1) Pullulan (marketed by Hav ashibara) Water................................................. 5 5 W 100 qsp 100 Top Coat P'Lethejamine (Mw •••• 440 g / moh AHEW (SI g / eq) (Jeffamme T403) 5 5 Water qsp 100 ] qsp 100

[0917] The "Base Coat" compositions are prepared by simply mixing the ingredients detailed in Table 17 using a Speed ​​Mixer (a mixing equipment that uses centrifugal force) for 2 minutes, at 3500 rpm and at room temperature.

[0918] The "Top Coat" compositions are prepared by simply mixing the ingredients detailed in Table 17 using a Speed ​​Mixer (a mixing equipment that uses centrifugal force) for 2 minutes, at 3500 rpm and at room temperature.

[0919] EXAMPLE 20: Two-step styling application with crosslinking agents of compositions Q and R - Curl evaluation

[0920] Compositions Q and R are applied according to the capping protocol with crosslinking agent described above.

[0921] The results of the loop evaluations are summarized in the table below:

[0922] [Tables 18] iiiiiiiiiioiOoii On support 11^ llllllllllll Formula R (invention) | 5 5 | 5 a.m. | Formula Q (comparative) 5 5 6.5 16 | Table 18

[0923] It appears that the strand treated with formula R, according to the process of the invention, makes it possible to significantly improve the shape of the curls which appear sharper and closer together unlike the strand treated with the comparative formula Q.

[0924] Furthermore, even after 20 minutes placed in a water bath and then 24 hours at room temperature, the strand treated with formula R, according to the process of the invention, shows a curl retention that is far superior to the strand treated with the comparative formula Q.

Claims

Demands

1. A process for treating keratinous materials, comprising applying to said keratinous materials, in one or more successive steps, at least: (i) one or more compounds of formula (I) as well as their optical, geometric, acid or base salts, and / or solvates, such as hydrates, or a composition containing them: (I) formula (I) in which: - R1 represents a multivalent polysaccharide radical, linear or cyclic, preferably linear, consisting of at least 3 monosaccharide units, each comprising at least 5 carbon atoms, particularly between 7 and 9 carbon atoms, preferably at least 6 carbon atoms, more particularly between 6 and 8 carbon atoms, and more preferably 6 carbon atoms, and of which one or more of the hydroxyl (-OH), carbonyl (-C(O)), carboxyl (-C(O)-OH) or amino -NH2 groups, of all or part of at least one of the monosaccharide units, are optionally substituted by one or more R3 groups - R2 represents a monovalent hydrocarbon radical in Ci to C6, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, preferably a (Ci-C4)alkyl group, more preferably methyl; - R3, whether identical or different, represents a group chosen from: 1) sulfonate -SO3, Cat+, 2) (Ci-C22)alkyl, linear or branched, and 3) (Ci-C22)alkylcarbonyl, linear or branched, the (CrC22)alkyl group being optionally interrupted by one or more heteroatoms or groups X as defined below; and / or the (CrC22)alkyl group being optionally substituted by one or more groups selected from: a) hydroxyl (-OH); b) sulfonate -SO3, Cat+; c) sulfate -O-SO3, Cat+; d) -(CH2-CH2-O)P-R4; e) -O-(CH2-CH2 -O)p-R4; f) -C(O)-R4; g) -C(O)-O-R4; h) -OC(O)-R4; i) -C(O)-N(R')-R4 ; j) -N(R')-C(O)-R4; k) ammonium -N+R”3; An and 1) their mixtures; - R4 represents a hydrogen atom, a (Ci-C8)alkyl group, linear or branched preferably R4 represents a hydrogen atom or a (Ci-C6)alkyl group linear or branched, more preferably a (Ci-C4)alkyl group linear or branched, in particular methyl; - Ra and Rb, identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or a (Ci-C4)alkyl group, preferably a hydrogen atom; - X is a heteroatom or group chosen from -O-, -S-, -N(R')-, and their combinations such as -C(O)-O-, -OC(O)-, -C(O)-N(R')-, -N(R')-C(O)-, -N(R')-C(O)-O-, -N(R')-C(O)-N(R')-, preferably X represents -O-; - R', identical or different, represents a hydrogen atom, a (Ci-C6)alkyl group, linear or branched, possibly substituted by at least one hydroxy group (OH), preferably R' represents a hydrogen atom or a (Ci-C4)alkyl group, in particular methyl, more preferably R' represents a hydrogen atom; - R”, identical or different, represents a hydrogen atom or a (Ci-C6)alkyl group, linear or branched, preferably a (Ci-C4)alkyl group, in particular methyl; - n denotes an integer from 2 to 3000, in particular from 5 to 2500, more particularly from 10 to 2300, preferably from 15 to 1000, preferably from 20 to 500, and more preferably from 25 to 200; - p denotes an integer from 0 to 3; - An represents an anionic counter ion; - Cat+ represents a cationic counter ion; said compound(s) of formula (I) being present in a content of at least 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition containing it or them; ii) possibly at least one crosslinking agent; and iii) possibly water, preferably water, or possibly water mixed with a polar organic solvent, preferably selected from the (C2-C6)alkanols, more preferably ethanol.

2. A treatment method according to the preceding claim, wherein the compound(s) of formula (I) is / are such that the polysaccharide chain, represented by R1, is selected from polysaccharide radicals derived from agarose, starch and its derivatives, cationic starch, alginate and its derivatives, hyaluronic acid, cellulose and its derivatives, in particular selected from methylcellulose, ethylcellulose, hydroxymethylcellulose, hydroxypropyl ethylcellulose and hydroxybutylcellulose, carrageenan, curdlan, dextran, glucan, guar gum, gellan, konjac, inulin, pectin, pullulan, scleroglucan, xanthan gum and their derivatives, preferably selected from starch and its derivatives, cellulose and its derivatives and alginate and its derivatives, and more preferably selected from pullulan and its derivatives, such as myristoyl pullulan.

3. A treatment method according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the compound(s) of formula (I) is / are selected from: a) cellulose, starch, amylose and their derivatives, of formula (II) as well as their optical isomers, their acid or base salts, organic or mineral, and solvates, such as hydrates: (II) b) alginate, pectin and their derivatives, of formula (III) as well as their optical isomers, their acid or base salts, organic or mineral, and solvates, such as hydrates: (HD c) hyaluronic acid and its derivatives, of formula (IV) as well as their isomers and solvates: (IV) d) dextran and its derivatives, of formula (V) as well as their optical isomers, their acid or base salts, organic or mineral, and solvates, such as hydrates: (V) e) inulin and its derivatives, of formula (VI) as well as their optical isomers, their acid or base salts, organic or mineral, and solvates, such as hydrates: (VI) (f) Guar gum and its derivatives, of formula (VII) as well as their optical isomers, their acid or base salts, organic or mineral, and solvates, such as hydrates: (VII) (g) glucan and its derivatives, of formula (VIII) as well as their optical isomers, their acid or base salts, organic or mineral, and solvates, such as hydrates: (VIII) (h) Carrageenan and its derivatives, in particular those of formula (IX), as well as their optical isomers, their acid or base salts, organic or mineral, and solvates, such as hydrates: (IX) in particular chosen from the derivatives y-carrageenan, ô-carrageenan, p-carrageenan, v-carrageenan, X-carrageenan, and their respective basic forms [3-carrageenan, a-carrageenan, K-carrageenan, i-carrageenan, 0-carrageenan, it being understood that the carragenans comprise at least one formula group (XII), preferably at least two formula groups (XII); i) cyclodextrin and its derivatives, of formula (X): (X) j) pullulan and its derivatives, of formula (XI) and their isomers optics, their acid or base salts, organic or mineral, and the solvated, such as hydrates: (XI) formulas (II) to (XI) in which: - R6, whether identical or different, represents -CH2-OR7 or -C(O)-OR7. - R7, identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or an R3 group as defined in formula (I), preferably a (Ci-C22)alkyl group, possibly substituted by at least one hydroxyl (-OH) group or a -C(O)-R8 group, with R8 representing a (Ci-C22) group )alkyl, or a -CH2-CH(OH)-CH2-N+(CH3)3An group, or an R9 group of formula (XII), R7' represents an R7 radical or a -SO3, Cat+ group, Cat+ being as defined previously: (XII) formula (XII) in which Ra, Rb, and R2 are such as defined previously for compounds of formula (I), preferably R2 denotes a methyl radical and Ra and Rb denote a hydrogen atom; - R10, identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom, a (Ci-C4)alkyl group, such as -CH3 or an R9 group as defined above; - m denotes an integer ranging from 2 to 3000, in particular from 5 to 2500, more particularly from 10 to 2300, preferably from 15 to 1000, preferably from 20 to 500, and more preferably from 25 to 200; - An being as defined previously; it being understood that formulas (II) to (XI) have at least one R9 motif, and preferably at least two R9 motifs, in their structure.

4. A treatment method according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the compound(s) of formula (I) is / are selected from: - 3-oxobutanoate of alginic acid (CAS No.: 2135428-65-6); - Amylose 3-oxobutanoate (CAS No.: 106254-13-1); - cellulose, 3-oxobutanoate, 2-hydroxyethyl ether (CAS number: 104708-71-6); - cellulose, 3-oxobutanoate, carboxymethyl ether (CAS number: 105953-68-2); - la cellulose, 3-oxobutanoate, 2-hydroxypropyl ether (n° CAS : 105953-69-3) ; - la cellulose, 3-oxobutanoate, methyl ether (n° CAS : 105953-70-6) ; - la cellulose, tris(3-oxobutanoate) (n° CAS : 119466-02-3) ; - la cellulose, 3-oxobutanoate (n° CAS : 80619-14-3) ; - la cellulose, acetate 3-oxobutanoate (n° CAS : 168608-38-6) ; - la cellulose, hexanoate 3-oxobutanoate (n° CAS : 1696417-96-5) ; - la cellulose, 3-oxobutanoate propanoate (n° CAS : 163381-45-1) ; - la cellulose, butanoate 3-oxobutanoate (n° CAS : 163438-87-7) ; - la cellulose, 4-methoxy-3-oxobutanoate (n° CAS : 2410687-10-2) ; - la cellulose, 3-oxobutanoate, 2-hydroxypropyl methyl ether (n° CAS : 2223678-14-4) ; - la cellulose, acetate butanoate 3-ethoxypropanoate 3-oxobutanoate (n° CAS : 334475-56-8) ; - la cellulose, 2-hydroxypropyl ether, 3-oxobutanoate (n° CAS : 497932-47-5) ; - la cellulose, 3-oxobutanoate, ethyl ether (n° CAS : 497932-48-6) ; - le dextran, 3-oxobutanoate (n° CAS : 882428-66-2) ; - le D-Glucan, 3-oxobutanoate (n° CAS : 2135428-66-7) ; - le guar gum, 3-oxobutanoate (n° CAS : 497932-49-7) ; - le hyaluronic acid, 3-oxobutanoate (n° CAS : 2135428-62-3) ; - le starch, 3-oxobutanoate (n° CAS : 78207-15-5) ; - le starch, 3-oxobutanoate, methyl ether (n° CAS : 2135428-59-8) ; - le starch, 3-oxobutanoate, 2-carboxymethyl ether (n° CAS : 2135428-60-1) ;- starch, 2-hydroxypropyl ether, 3-oxobutanoate (CAS number: 2135428-61-2); - starch, 3-oxobutanoate, 2-hydroxypropyl ether (CAS number: 2223678-15-5); - pullulan acetoacetate (CAS number: 2762209-81-2); - cyclodextrin, ethyl-3-oxobutanoate (CAS number: 152154-93-3); - cyclodextrin, 3-oxobutanoate (CAS number: 2135428-63-4); and - myristoyl pullulan acetoacetate.;

5. Processing method according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the compound(s) of formula (I) is / are selected from pullulan acetoacetate and myristoyl pullulan acetoacetate.

6. Processing method according to any one of the preceding claims, comprising applying to said keratinous materials at least iii) water.

7. A treatment method according to any one of the preceding claims, comprising the application to said keratinous materials of at least ii) a crosslinking agent.

8. A treatment method according to any one of the preceding claims, comprising application to said keratinous materials of at least ii) a crosslinking agent selected from (poly)amine, (poly)thiol, (poly)carbonyl, (poly)acrylate, metal alkoxide compounds, and mixtures thereof, preferably selected from (poly)amine, (poly)thiol, (poly)acrylate compounds and mixtures thereof, and more preferably selected from (poly)amine, (poly)thiol compounds and mixtures thereof.

9. A treatment method according to any one of the preceding claims, comprising applying to said keratin materials at least ii) a crosslinking agent selected from: A) (poly)amine compounds selected from: ia) chitosans such as poly(D-Glucosamine), ib) diamine polyethers, in particular polyethylene glycol α, co-diamine, with an amine function at the chain end, ic) triamine polyethers, in particular polyetheramine (or jeffamine), id) aminoalkoxysilanes, in particular APTES, ie) spermidine, and if) polydialkylsiloxanes comprising primary amine groups at the chain end or on side chains, in particular polydimethylsiloxanes comprising primary amine groups, more particularly poly(dimethoxysiloxane) terminated by bis(3-aminopropyl) (PDMS-diNH2) and amodimethicones comprising amine groups on side chains,more specifically bis-cetearyl amodi-methicone; B) (Poly)thiol compounds selected from: iia) polydialkylsiloxanes with thiol functions, and iib) alkoxysilanes with thiol functions, and in particular selected from compounds iia) polydialkylsiloxanes with thiol functions, preferably from polydimethylsiloxanes comprising thiol groups on the side chain, in particular mercaptopropyl, and more particularly selected from compounds of formula (XIII): R“-Si(Rb)(Rd)-O-[Si(R“)(Rb)-O]m-[Si(Rb)(ALKrSH)-O]n-Si(Rb)(Rd)-R“ (XIII) formula (XIII) wherein: - Ra and Rb, identical or different, preferably identical, represent a (Ci-C4)alkyl group, in particular methyl, a (Ci-C4)alkoxy group, in particular methoxy, a group aryl, in particular, phenyl, an aryloxy group, in particular phenoxy, an aryl(Ci-C4)alkyl group, in particular benzyl, or an aryl(Ci-C4)alkoxy group, in particular benzoxy, and preferably a (Ci-C4)alkyl group, more preferably methyl, - Rd represents a (Ci-C4)alkyl group, in particular methyl, an (CrC4)alkoxy group, in particular methoxy, an aryl group, in particular phenyl, an aryloxy group, in particular phenoxy, an aryl(CrC4)alkyl group, in particular benzyl, an aryl(CrC4)alkoxy group, in particular benzoxy, or a (Ci-C6)alkyl group substituted by a (CrC4)alkylamino, amino, or thiol group, and preferably a (CrC4)alkyl group, more preferably methyl, and preferably Ra, Rb, and Rd are identical and represent a (Ci-C6)alkyl group, more preferably methyl, - ALKi represents a divalent hydrocarbon chain comprising from 1 to 100 carbon atoms, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, possibly cyclic, possibly interrupted by one or more heteroatoms, such as oxygen, sulfur or nitrogen, in particular oxygen, a (thio)carbonyl group C(X) with X representing O or S, or their combinations, in particular -O-, -OC(O)- or -C(O)-O-, preferably ALKi represents a (Ci-C6)alkylene group, more preferably (CrC4)alkylene, even more preferably propylene, - n and m, identical or different, represent an integer greater than 2, and in particular the values ​​of m and n are such that the weight-average molecular weight of said polyorganosiloxane is between 1000 and 55000 g.mol1; and C) (poly)acrylate compounds of formula (XIV): L[-YC(O)-C(Re)=CH2]q (XIV) formula (XIV) in which: - q represents an integer greater than or equal to 2, in particular n is inclusively between 2 and 10, and preferably between 2 and 5, - L denotes a multivalent group at least divalent, in particular comprising between 1 and 500 carbon and / or silicon atoms, more particularly between 2 and 40 carbon and / or silicon atoms, even more particularly between 3 and 30 carbon and / or silicon atoms, preferably between 6 and 20 carbon atoms, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, or (hetero)cyclic, saturated or unsaturated; L being optionally interrupted and / or terminated by one or more heteroatoms or groups selected from O, S, N, Si, C(X), and their combinations, in particular

10.

11. particular -O-, -OC(X)-, -N(R)-C(X)-, -Si(Rc)(Rd)-O- with R representing a hydrogen atom or a (Ci-C6)alkyl group, in particular methyl; and / or L being optionally substituted by one or more groups chosen from: -N(Ra)Rb, and -(X')aC(X)-(X”)b-Ra, with X, X' and X”, identical or different, representing an oxygen atom, a sulfur atom, or an N(Rb) group, a and b being 0 or 1, preferably the sum of a and b being 1, Ra and Rb, identical or different, representing a hydrogen atom, a (Ci-C6)alkyl group, or an aryl(Ci-C4)alkyl group, in particular benzyl, preferably Ra and Rb represent a hydrogen atom, and Rc and Rd, identical or different, represent a (Ci-C6)alkyl, aryl(Ci-C4)alkyl or (Ci-C6)alkoxy group, - Re represents a hydrogen atom or a (CrC4)alkyl group, in particular methyl, preferably Re represents a hydrogen atom, and - Y represents an oxygen atom or an amino group -N(H)-, preferably an oxygen atom, preferably Y is an oxygen atom and Re is a hydrogen atom, preferably L represents a di- or trivalent hydrocarbon chain, preferably trivalent, comprising 1 to 8 carbon atoms, q is 2 or 3, preferably 3, and more preferentially the compounds of formula (XIV) are trimethyl-lolpropane triacrylate. A treatment method according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein further iv) at least one cosmetic active ingredient is applied to said keratinous materials. A treatment method according to the preceding claim, wherein the cosmetic active ingredient(s) iv) are selected from: a) coloring materials, in particular selected from pigments, direct colorants and mixtures thereof, b) active ingredients for the care of keratinous materials, preferably skin, c) UV filters, and d) their mixtures; preferably the cosmetic active ingredient(s) iv) are chosen from a) coloring materials, preferably chosen from pigments, direct colorants and their mixtures, more preferably the pigment(s) are chosen from carbon black, iron oxides, in particular yellow, red and black and iron oxide-coated micas, triarylmethane pigments, in particular blue and violet, in particular BLUE 1 LAKE, azo pigments, especially red ones, more particularly D&C RED 7, the alkali metal salt of lithol red, especially the calcium salt of lithol red B, and even more preferentially among red iron oxides, yellow iron oxides and azo pigments, especially red ones, more particularly D&C RED 7.

12. A treatment method according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein there is further implemented (v) at least one fat, in particular at least one oil, preferably at least one volatile oil.

13. A treatment process according to the preceding claim, wherein (v) at least one fat is further used, selected from volatile oils selected from: - hydrocarbon oils having 8 to 16 carbon atoms, in particular C8-Ci6 branched alkanes, in particular isoalkanes, more particularly iso-alkanes (also called isoparaffins), preferably Ci3-Ci6 isoparaffin, isododecane, isodecane, isohexadecane, for example, oils sold under the trade names Isopars or Permetyls, alone or in mixtures, preferably isododecane (also called 2,2,4,4,6-pentamethylheptane), linear alkanes, in particular Cn-Ci6, alone or in mixtures, in particular hexane, decane, undecane, tridecane, isoparaffins in particular n-dodecane (Ci2) and n-tetradecane (CM), the undecane-tridecane mixture, mixtures of n-undecane (Cn) and n-tridecane (Cn),and their mixtures, as well as mixtures of n-undecane (Cn) and n-tridecane (Cn), and volatile non-aromatic cyclic C5-Ci2 alkanes; - short-chain esters having from 3 to 8 carbon atoms in total, in particular ethyl acetate, methyl acetate, propyl acetate, n-butyl acetate; - carbonate hydrocarbon oils of structure R'rO-C(O)-O-R'2 in which R and R'2 independently designate a linear, branched or cyclic C4-C8 alkyl group, preferably a C4-C8 alkyl group, advantageously, more preferably chosen from dibutyl carbonate or dipentyl carbonate; - Ether oils of formula RrO-R2, in which Ri and R2 designate, independently of each other, a linear, branched or cyclic C4-C8 alkyl group, preferably a C4-C8 alkyl group; - silicone oils, in particular comprising 2 to 7 silicon atoms, and possibly comprising alkyl or alkoxy groups having 1 to 10 carbon atoms, in particular dimethicones of viscosity 5 and 6 cSt, cyclopentadimethylsiloxane, dodecamethylpentasiloxane, cyclohexadimethylsiloxane, octamethyl cyclotetrasiloxane, decamethyl cyclopentasiloxane, dodecamethyl cyclohexasiloxane, heptamethyl hexyltrisiloxane, heptamethyloctyl trisiloxane, hexamethyl disiloxane, octamethyl trisiloxane, decamethyl tetrasiloxane, dodecamethyl pentasiloxane, and mixtures thereof; more preferably the volatile oil(s) v) are chosen from among the C8-Ci6 alkanes, in particular branched, preferably isododecane.

14. A treatment method, particularly for cosmetic purposes, of keratinous materials according to any one of the preceding claims, in particular for the care and / or makeup of skin, lips, eyelashes and / or eyebrows and / or for the care, styling and / or coloring of keratinous fibers, preferably hair, comprising the application to said keratinous materials of at least: - a composition, referred to as "Cl", comprising i) at least one compound of formula (I) and its optical, geometric isomers, its organic or mineral acid or base salts, and / or solvates, such as hydrates, according to any one of claims 1 to 5, optionally iii) water, and optionally iv) at least one cosmetic active ingredient, in particular according to any one of claims 10 or 11, said compound(s) of formula (I) being present in a content of at least 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition; - a composition, referred to as "C2", comprising i) at least one compound of formula (I) and its optical, geometric isomers, its organic or mineral acid or base salts, and / or solvates, such as hydrates, according to any one of claims 1 to 5, optionally ii) at least one crosslinking agent, in particular according to any one of claims 8 or 9, optionally iii) water, and optionally iv) at least one cosmetic active, in particular according to any one of claims 10 or 11, said compound(s) of formula (I) being present in a content of at least 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition; - a composition, referred to as "C3", comprising i) at least one compound of formula (I) ) as well as its optical, geometric isomers, its organic or mineral acid or base salts, and / or solvated, such as hydrates, according to any one of claims 1 to 5, ii) at least one crosslinking agent, in particular according to any one of claims 8 or 9, iv) at least one cosmetic active ingredient, in particular according to any one of claims 10 or 11, and optionally iii) water, said compound(s) of formula (I) being present in a content of at least 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition; - a composition, referred to as "C4", comprising ii) at least one crosslinking agent, in particular according to any one of claims 8 or 9, optionally iv) at least one cosmetic active ingredient, in particular according to any one of claims 10 or 11, and optionally iii) water;and / or - a composition, referred to as "C5", comprising iv) at least one cosmetic active ingredient, in particular according to any one of claims 10 or 11, and optionally iii) water; it being understood that the compositions "Cl", "C2", "C3", "C4" and "C5" may be anhydrous, aqueous, and / or comprise one or more fatty substances v), in particular according to any one of claims 12 or 13.;

15. Processing method according to the preceding claim, characterized in that it comprises a single step of applying composition "Cl" or composition "C2" or composition "C3" to said keratin materials.

16. Treatment method according to claim 14, characterized in that it comprises two successive application steps on said keratinous materials, of two different compositions, preferably of composition "Cl" and then of composition "C4".

17. A cosmetic treatment method according to claim 16, for the care, styling and / or coloring of keratin fibers, preferably hair, comprising the successive application of at least: - a composition, referred to as "Cl", comprising i) at least one compound of formula (I) ) as well as its optical, geometric isomers, its organic or mineral acid or base salts, and / or solvates, such as hydrates, according to any one of claims 1 to 5, optionally iii) water, and optionally iv) at least one cosmetic active ingredient, in particular according to any one of claims 10 or 11; then - a composition, referred to as "C4", comprising ii) at least one crosslinking agent, in particular according to any one of claims 8 or 9, optionally iv) at least one cosmetic active ingredient, in particular according to any one of claims 10 or 11, and optionally iii) water; at least one of the compositions "Cl" and / or "C4" containing at least one colouring material, in particular according to claim 11, preferably at least one pigment, and more preferably composition "Cl" comprises at least one pigment.

18. Composition “C3”, preferably aqueous, comprising i) at least one compound of formula (I) and its optical, geometric isomers, its organic or mineral acid or base salts, and / or solvates, such as hydrates, according to any one of claims 1 to 5, ii) at least one crosslinking agent, in particular according to any one of claims 8 or 9, iv) at least one cosmetic active, in particular according to any one of claims 10 or 11, and optionally iii) water, said compound(s) of formula (I) being present in a content of at least 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

19. Cosmetic use of composition “C3” according to claim 18, for the treatment of keratinous materials, in particular for the care, styling and / or coloring of keratinous fibers, preferably hair.

20. A kit, in particular a cosmetic kit, with several compartments comprising: - at least one compartment containing at least i) at least one compound of formula (I) and its optical, geometric, and / or solvated acid or base salts, such as hydrates, according to any one of claims 1 to 5, optionally iii) water, and optionally iv) at least one cosmetic active ingredient, in particular according to any one of claims 10 or 11, in particular comprising the composition "Cl" according to any one of claims 14 or 17; - at least one compartment separate from that containing i) and containing ii) at least one crosslinking agent, in particular according to any one of claims 8 or 9, optionally iii) water, and optionally iv) at least one cosmetic active ingredient, in particular according to any one of claims 10 or 11, in particular comprising the

21. composition “C4” according to any one of claims 14 or 17; and - optionally, at least one compartment separate from those containing i) and ii), and containing iv) at least one cosmetic active ingredient, in particular according to any one of claims 10 or 11, identical or different from that / those possibly contained in the compartments comprising i) and ii). Compound myristoyl pullulan acetoacetate, its optical and geometric isomers, its organic or mineral acid or base salts, and / or solvated forms such as hydrates, of formula: ■î< ' « 'RRR formula in which: - m is as defined according to claim 3; - R11, identical or different, represents a hydrogen atom or a (Cio-Ci6)alkyl group, linear or branched, preferably linear, such as CH13H27, or (Ci0-Ci6)alkylcarbonyl, linear or branched, preferably linear, such as CHi3H27-C(O)- or an R9 group as defined above; provided that at least one, preferably at least two, R n group(s), and at least one (Ci0-Ci6)alkyl or (Ci0-Ci6)alkylcarbonyl group, such as CHi3H27 or CHnH27-C(O)-, are present in the above myristoyl pullulan acetoacetate compound.

22. Cosmetic composition comprising at least one myristoyl pullulan acetoacetate compound as defined in claim 21.