Anti-aging care kit for keratin materials
A kit with four compositions of alpha-hydroxy acid, ascorbic acid, UV filter, and retinol, applied in a specific sequence, addresses the slow effects of existing anti-aging products by accelerating visible benefits like reduced wrinkles and improved complexion within a week.
Patent Information
- Application Number
- FR2022013959
- Authority / Receiving Office
- FR · FR
- Patent Type
- Patents
- Current Assignee / Owner
- Filing Date
- 2022-12-20
- Publication Date
- 2025-10-24
- Estimated Expiration
- 2042-12-20
AI Technical Summary
Existing anti-aging products take too long to show visible effects, exceeding three months, and there is a need for products that provide anti-aging benefits more quickly, such as a more uniform complexion, reduced pores, and reduced wrinkles within a shorter timeframe, preferably less than three months.
A kit comprising four compositions with specific active ingredients - alpha-hydroxy acid, ascorbic acid, a UV filter, and retinol - applied in a specific sequence to accelerate anti-aging benefits, including a first composition with 1-8% alpha-hydroxy acid, a second with 2-15% ascorbic acid, a third with a UV filter, and a fourth with 0.05-1% retinol, all for topical application on keratin materials.
The kit and application process enhance the visibility of anti-aging effects on the skin more quickly, allowing consumers to perceive improvements within less than three months, preferably in one week.
Abstract
Description
Title of the invention: Anti-aging care kit for keratin materials
[0001] The present invention relates to a kit comprising four care compositions each comprising one or more specific active ingredients in specific proportions.
[0002] The present invention also relates to a method for caring for keratin materials comprising the application of the compositions of the kit according to the invention according to a specific sequence.
[0003] One of the current consumer trends is to want to look young for as long as possible. They therefore seek to reduce the signs of skin aging, for example wrinkles and fine lines, thinning of the epidermis and / or the appearance of loose and sagging skin, and / or seek to delay the phenomenon of skin aging. Many products designed to keep skin radiant and wrinkle-free for as long as possible, the signs of young skin, have therefore been developed. These products include one or more biological active ingredients that have demonstrated biological efficacy against skin aging.
[0004] However, the performance of these products is difficult for consumers to perceive because their effects are not visible quickly (often after a period of use exceeding three months).
[0005] There is therefore a need for products providing one or more anti-aging benefits more quickly than current products, in particular providing one or more anti-aging benefits after a period of use of less than three months.
[0006] In particular, there is a need for products providing a more uniform complexion, and / or reduced / tightened pores, and / or a fatigue-relieving effect, and / or reduced wrinkles and / or reduced fine lines and / or a plumper appearance of the skin and / or more supple skin more quickly than current products, in particular after a period of use of less than three months, preferably less than or equal to 1 month, preferably less than or equal to two weeks, preferably less than or equal to one week.
[0007] The inventors have now discovered that a kit comprising the combination of four compositions, each comprising one or more specific active ingredients in specific proportions, makes it possible to accelerate the appearance of anti-aging benefits, and therefore allows consumers to perceive the effects on their skin more quickly.
[0008] The inventors have also discovered that a process for caring for keratin materials comprising the application of these four compositions according to a specific sequence makes it possible to improve and accelerate the appearance of anti-aging benefits, and therefore allows consumers to perceive the effects on their skin more quickly.
[0009] Thus, the subject of the present invention is a kit, preferably for the care of keratin materials, comprising:
[0010] - a first composition comprising between 1 and 8% by weight, relative to the weight total of the first composition, an alpha-hydroxy acid, and optionally a beta-hydroxy acid,
[0011] - a second composition comprising between 2 and 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the second composition, of ascorbic acid and / or one of its derivatives,
[0012] - a third composition comprising at least one UV filter, and
[0013] - a fourth composition comprising between 0.05% and 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the fourth composition, of retinol and / or one of its derivatives,
[0014] wherein the first composition, the second composition, the third composition and the fourth composition are each placed separately from each other.
[0015] The first, second, third and fourth compositions according to the invention are preferably intended for topical application, in particular to keratin materials, in particular the skin. They comprise in particular a physiologically acceptable medium, that is to say a medium compatible with all keratin materials, in particular the skin.
[0016] For the purposes of the present invention, keratin materials mean skin. By "skin" is meant the skin of the face and / or body.
[0017] The present invention also relates to a cosmetic process for caring for keratin materials, preferably the skin, comprising:
[0018] - a first series of steps, comprising:
[0019] - a step a) of applying to said keratin materials a first composition position comprising between 1% and 8% by weight, relative to the total weight of the first composition, of an alpha-hydroxy acid, and optionally a beta hydroxy acid,
[0020] - a step b) of application to said keratin materials of a second com position comprising between 2% and 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the second composition, of ascorbic acid and / or one of its derivatives,
[0021] - a step c) of applying to said keratin materials a third com position comprising at least one UV filter, and
[0022] - a second series of steps, comprising:
[0023] - a step a') of application to said keratin materials of the first composition position,
[0024] - a step b') of application to said keratin materials of the second com position, and
[0025] - a step c') of applying to said keratin materials a fourth com position comprising between 0.05 and 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the fourth composition, of retinol and / or one of its derivatives.
[0026] The present invention further relates to the cosmetic use of a kit according to the invention for reducing the appearance and / or attenuating the signs of aging of keratin materials, in particular of the skin.
[0027] Throughout the present description, the contents are expressed as a percentage of active ingredient, unless otherwise specified. Definitions
[0028] The following definitions are valid independently for each of the first, second, third and fourth compositions according to the invention. Oil
[0029] Oil is understood to mean any fatty substance in liquid form at room temperature (20-25°C) and atmospheric pressure (760 mm Hg). An oil suitable for the invention may be volatile or non-volatile. The oil may be hydrocarbon or silicone.
[0030] A hydrocarbon oil suitable for the invention may be an animal hydrocarbon oil, a vegetable hydrocarbon oil, or a synthetic hydrocarbon oil.
[0031] By "hydrocarbon oil" is meant an oil formed essentially, or even consisting of, carbon and hydrogen atoms, and possibly oxygen and nitrogen atoms, and not containing silicon or fluorine atoms. Hydrocarbon oil is therefore distinct from silicone oil and fluorinated oil.
[0032] It may contain alcohol, ester, ether, carboxylic acid, amine and / or amide groups. Preferably, the hydrocarbon oil is free of heteroatoms such as nitrogen, sulfur and phosphorus.
[0033] The oil may be volatile or non-volatile.
[0034] For the purposes of the invention, the term "volatile oil" means an oil capable of evaporating on contact with the skin or keratin fiber in less than one hour, at room temperature and atmospheric pressure. The volatile oil(s) of the invention are volatile cosmetic oils, liquid at room temperature, having a non-zero vapor pressure, at room temperature and atmospheric pressure, ranging in particular from 0.13 Pa to 40,000 Pa (103 to 300 mm Hg), in particular ranging from 1.3 Pa to 13,000 Pa (0.01 to 100 mm Hg), and more particularly ranging from 1.3 Pa to 1300 Pa (0.01 to 10 mm Hg).
[0035] By "non-volatile oil" is meant an oil remaining on the skin or keratin fiber at room temperature and atmospheric pressure for at least several hours and in particular having a vapor pressure of less than 103 mm Hg (0.13 Pa).
[0036] As non-volatile hydrocarbon oils which can be used, mention may in particular be made of:
[0037] (i) hydrocarbon oils of vegetable origin such as glyceride triesters which are generally triesters of fatty acids and glycerol, the fatty acids of which may have chain lengths varying from C4 to C24, the latter being able to be linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated; these oils are in particular wheat germ, sunflower, grape seed, sesame, corn, apricot, castor, shea, avocado, olive, soybean, almond oil and in particular sweet almond, palm, rapeseed, cottonseed, hazelnut, macadamia, jojoba, alfalfa, poppy, pumpkin, sesame, squash, rapeseed, blackcurrant, evening primrose, millet, barley, quinoa, rye, safflower, candlenut, passionflower, musk rose, coconut oil; or even the triglycerides of caprylic / capric acids such as those sold by the company Stéarineries Dubois or those sold under the names Miglyol 810®, 812® and 818® by the company Dynamit Nobel,
[0038] (ii) synthetic ethers, for example linear or branched, symmetrical or unsymmetrical dialkyl ethers containing 6 to 22 carbon atoms per alkyl group, such as dicaprylyl ether (Cetiol® OE);
[0039] (iii) linear or branched hydrocarbons, of mineral or synthetic origin such as vaseline oil, polydecenes, hydrogenated polyisobutene such as parleam, squalane and their mixtures (mineral oils);
[0040] (iv) synthetic esters such as oils of formula RCOOR' in which R represents the residue of a linear or branched fatty acid containing from 1 to 40 carbon atoms and R' represents a hydrocarbon chain, in particular a branched chain, containing from 1 to 40 carbon atoms provided that R + R' is > 10, such as, for example, Purcellin oil (cetostearyl octanoate), isononyl isononanoate, isopropyl myristate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, 2-octyldodecyl stearate, 2-octyldodecyl erucate, isostearyl isostearate, isopropyl palmitate, C12-C15 alcohol benzoate such as the product sold under the trade name "Finsolv TN®" or " Witconol TN® » by the company WITCO or « TEGOSOFT TN® » by the company EVONIK GOLDSCHMIDT, 2-ethylphenyl benzoate as the commercial product sold under the name « X-TEND 226® » by the company ISP, isopropyl lanolate, hexyl laurate, diisopropyl adipate, isononyl isononanoate,oleyl erucate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, isostearyl isostearate, diisopropyl sebacate such as the product sold under the name “Dub Dis®” by the company Stearinerie Dubois, octanoates, decanoates or ricinoleates of alcohols or polyalcohols such as propylene glycol dioctanoate; hydroxyl esters such as isostearyl lactate, diisostearyl malate; and pentaerythritol esters; citrates or tartrates such as linear C12-C13 dialkyl tartrates such as those sold under the name COSMACOL ETI® by the company ENICHEM AUGUSTA INDUSTRIALE as well as linear C14-C15 dialkyl tartrates such as those sold under the name COSMACOL ETL® by the same company; acetates;
[0041] (y) fatty alcohols which are liquid at room temperature with a branched carbon chain and / or unsaturated having from 12 to 26 carbon atoms such as octyldodecanol, isostearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, 2-hexyldecanol, 2-butyloctanol, 2-undecylpentadecanol;
[0042] (vi) higher fatty acids such as oleic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid;
[0043] (vii) carbonates such as dicaprylyl carbonate such as the product sold under the name “Cetiol CC®” by the company Cognis;
[0044] (viii) fatty amides such as isopropyl N-lauroyl sarcosinate such as the product sold under the trade name Eldew SL 205® from Ajinomoto and mixtures thereof.
[0045] As volatile hydrocarbon oils which can be used, mention may in particular be made of hydrocarbon oils having from 8 to 16 carbon atoms, and in particular branched C8-C16 alkanes such as C8-C16 isoalkanes of petroleum origin (also called isoparaffins) such as isododecane (also called 2,2,4,4,6-pentamethylheptane), isodecane, isohexadecane, oils sold under the trade names Isopars® or Permetyls®, branched C8-C16 esters, isohexyl neopentanoate, and mixtures thereof.
[0046] Mention may also be made of the alkanes described in the patent applications of the company Cognis WO2007 / 068371 or WO2008 / 155059 (mixtures of distinct alkanes differing by at least one carbon). These alkanes are obtained from fatty alcohols, themselves obtained from coconut or palm oil. Mention may be made of the mixtures of n-undecane (Cl 1) and n-tridecane (Cl3) obtained in examples 1 and 2 of application WO2008 / 155059 of the company Cognis.
[0047] Mention may also be made of n-dodecane (C12) and n-tetradecane (C14) sold by Sasol respectively under the references PARAFOL 12-97® and PARAFOL 14-97®, as well as their mixtures.
[0048] Other volatile hydrocarbon oils such as petroleum distillates, in particular those sold under the name Shell Soit® by the company SNELL, can also be used.
[0049] The non-volatile silicone oils may be chosen in particular from non-volatile polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS), polydimethylsiloxanes comprising alkyl or alkoxy groups, pendant and / or at the end of the silicone chain, groups each having from 2 to 24 carbon atoms, phenyl silicones such as phenyl trimethicones, phenyl dimethicones, phenyl trimethylsiloxy diphenylsiloxanes, diphenyl dimethicones, diphenyl methyldiphenyl trisiloxanes, 2-phenylethyl trimethylsiloxysilicates.
[0050] Examples of volatile silicone oils that may be mentioned are silicone oils volatile linear or cyclic silicones, in particular those having a viscosity of 8 centistokes (8.106 m2 / s), and in particular having from 2 to 7 silicon atoms, these silicones optionally comprising alkyl or alkoxy groups having from 1 to 10 carbon atoms. As volatile silicone oil that can be used in the invention, mention may in particular be made of octamethyl cyclotetrasiloxane, decamethyl cyclopentasiloxane, dodecamethyl cyclohexasiloxane, heptamethyl hexyltrisiloxane, heptamethyloctyl trisiloxane, hexamethyl disiloxane, octamethyl trisiloxane, decamethyl tetrasiloxane, dodecamethyl pentasiloxane and mixtures thereof.
[0051] Mention may also be made of volatile linear alkyltrisiloxane oils of general formula (X):
[0052] [Chem.l] CH CHJ / SiO Si O Sf'CH R (X)
[0053] where R represents an alkyl group comprising from 2 to 4 carbon atoms and one or more hydrogen atoms of which may be substituted by a fluorine or chlorine atom.
[0054] Among the oils of general formula (X), we can cite: 3-butyl 1,1,1,3,5,5,5-heptamethyl trisiloxane, 3-propyl 1,1,1,3,5,5,5-heptamethyl trisiloxane, and 3-ethyl 1,1,1,3,5,5,5-heptamethyl trisiloxane, corresponding to the oils of formula (X) for which R is respectively a butyl group, a propyl group or an ethyl group.
[0055] Preferably, the silicone oil is a non-volatile PDMS. Other fats
[0056] Another fatty substance (or lipophilic compound) can be chosen from:
[0057] - fatty acids containing from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, such as stearic acid, lauric acid, palmitic acid and oleic acid;
[0058] - waxes such as lanolin, beeswax, Camauba or Candellila wax, paraffin waxes, lignite waxes or microcrystalline waxes, ceresin or ozokerite, synthetic waxes such as polyethylene waxes and Fischer-Tropsch waxes;
[0059] - the pasty compounds, detailed below, such as butters of vegetable origin;
[0060] - fatty alcohols solid at room temperature with a linear carbon chain having 12 to 26 carbon atoms, such as cetyl alcohol or cetylstearyl alcohol;
[0061] - and mixtures thereof. Surfactants
[0062] The surfactants may be chosen from anionic, cationic, non-ionic, zwitterionic and amphoteric surfactants, preferably from non-ionic or anionic surfactants.
[0063] Among the non-ionic surfactants, we can cite in particular:
[0064] - C8-C20 fatty acids, such as stearic acid,
[0065] - esters and ethers of oses such as the mixture of cetylstearyl glucoside and alcohols cetyl and stearyl such as Montanov 68® from Seppic;
[0066] - ethoxylated methyl glucose esters, for example methyl sesquistearate PEG-20 glucose;
[0067] - oxyethylenated and / or oxypropylenated ethers (which may contain from 1 to 150 groups oxyethylenated and / or oxypropylenated) of glycerol;
[0068] - oxyethylenated and / or oxypropylenated ethers (which may contain from 1 to 150 groups oxyethylenated and / or oxypropylenated) fatty alcohols (in particular C8-C24 alcohol, and preferably C12-C18) such as oxyethylenated ether of cetearyl alcohol with 30 oxyethylenated groups (CTFA name “Ceteareth-30”), oxyethylenated ether of stearyl alcohol with 20 oxyethylenated groups (CTFA name “Steareth-20”), oxyethylenated ether of the mixture of C12-C15 fatty alcohols containing 7 oxyethylenated groups (CTFA name “C12-15 Pareth-7”) sold in particular under the name NEODOL 25-7® by SHELL CHEMICALS;
[0069] - fatty acid esters (especially C8-C24 acid, and preferably C16-C22) and polyol, in particular glycerol or sorbitol, such as glyceryl stearate, such as the product sold under the name TEGIN M® by the company GOLDSCHMIDT, glyceryl laurate such as the product sold under the name IMWITOR 312® by the company HULS, polyglyceryl-2 stearate, sorbitan tristearate, glyceryl ricinoleate;
[0070] - esters, for example monoesters, diesters or triesters, preferably monoesters of fatty acid (in particular C8-C24 acid, and preferably C10-C20) and polyglycerol comprising from 1 to 12 glycerol units, preferably from 2 to 10 glycerol units, for example polyglyceryl-4 caprate and polyglyceryl-2 oleate;
[0071] - alkyl and polyalkyl ethers of poly(ethylene oxide) which are preferably those whose number of ethylene oxide (EO) units varies from 2 to 200. For example, mention may be made of cetyl ether 23 EO, oleyl ether 50 EO, phytosterol 30 EO, steareth 40, steareth 100 and beheneth 100;
[0072] - polyoxyethylenated (1-40 EO) and (1-30 PO) C16-C24 alkyl ethers polyoxy- propylene (C16-C24), for example PPG-6 Decyltetradeceth-30,
[0073] - polyoxyalkylenated fatty acid esters (in particular polyoxyethylenated and / or po- lyoxypropylenated), for example PEG-60 hydrogenated castor oil, possibly in association with a fatty acid and glycerol ester such as the PEG-100 Stearate / Glyceryl Stearate mixture marketed for example by the company Croda under the name Arlacel 165®;
[0074] - esters or mixtures of esters of fatty acid and sucrose, maltose, glucose or fructose, for example sucrose monostearate, sucrose distearate and sucrose tristearate and mixtures thereof, such as the products sold by Croda Company under the name Crodesta F50, F70, Fl 10 and F160®;
[0075] - fatty acid esters (especially C8-C24 acid, and preferably C16-C22 acid) and oxyethylenated and / or oxypropylenated glycerol ethers (which may contain from 1 to 150 oxyethylenated and / or oxypropylenated groups), such as PEG-200 glyceryl monostearate, notably sold under the name Simulsol 220 TM® by the company SEPPIC; PEG-50 stearate and PEG-40 monostearate, notably sold under the name MYRJ 52P® by the company ICI UNIQUEMA;polyethoxylated glyceryl stearate with 30 ethylene oxide groups such as the product TAGAT S® sold by the company Evonik GOLDSCHMIDT, polyethoxylated glyceryl oleate with 30 ethylene oxide groups such as the product TAGAT O® sold by the company Evonik GOLDSCHMIDT, polyethoxylated glyceryl cocoate with 30 ethylene oxide groups such as the product VARIONIC LI 13® sold by the company SHEREX, polyethoxylated glyceryl isostearate with 30 ethylene oxide groups such as the product TAGAT L® sold by the company Evonik GOLDSCHMIDT and polyethoxylated glyceryl laurate with 30 ethylene oxide groups such as the product TAGAT I® from the company Evonik GOLDSCHMIDT, ;
[0076] - fatty acid esters (especially C8-C24 acid, and preferably C16-C22 acid) and oxyethylenated and / or oxypropylenated sorbitol ethers (which may contain from 1 to 150 oxyethylenated and / or oxypropylenated groups), such as polysorbate 20 sold in particular under the name Tween 20® by the company CRODA, polysorbate 60 sold in particular under the name Tween 60® by the company CRODA,
[0077] - dimethicone copolyol, such as that sold under the name Q2-5220® by DOW CORNING company,
[0078] - dimethicone copolyol benzoate (FINSOLV SLB 101® and 201® from the company FINTEX),
[0079] - copolymers of propylene oxide and ethylene oxide, also called po- lycondensates OE / OP,
[0080] and mixtures thereof.
[0081] Among the anionic surfactants, we can cite:
[0082] - salts of polyoxyethylenated fatty acids, in particular those derived from amines or alkali salts, and their mixtures;
[0083] - phosphoric esters and their salts such as “DEA oleth-10 phosphate” (Crodafos N ION® from CRODA) or monocetyl monopotassium phosphate or potassium cetyl phosphate (Amphisol K from Givaudan);
[0084] - sulfosuccinates such as “Disodium PEG-5 citrate lauryl sul / osuccinate” and “Disodium ricinoleamido MEA sulfosuccinate”;
[0085] - alkyl ether sulfates such as sodium lauryl ether sulfate;
[0086] - isethionates;
[0087] - acylglutamates such as “Disodium hydrogenated tallow glutamate” (AMISOFT HS-21 R® marketed by AJINOMOTO) and sodium stearoyl glutamate (AMISOFT HS-11 PF® marketed by AJINOMOTO) and their mixtures;
[0088] - the condensate of at least one derivative of glutamic acid and an amino acid, such as a condensate of N-acylated glutamic acid and an amino acid such as lysine, or a salt thereof. The acyl group attached to the nitrogen atom of glutamic acid may be derived from a saturated or unsaturated fatty acid having 8 to 22 carbon atoms, as mentioned above, such as lauric acid. As the salt, metal salts, ammonium salts, and onium salts of an organic alkanolamine as mentioned above may be mentioned. The sodium salt is preferable. Such a surfactant is, for example, sodium dilauramidoglutamide lysine;
[0089] - soy derivatives such as potassium soyate;
[0090] - citrates, such as Glyceryl stearate citrate (Axol C 62 Pellets® from Degussa);
[0091] - proline derivatives, such as Sodium palmitoyl proline (Sepicalm VG from Seppic), or the Mixture of Sodium palmitoyl sarcosinate, Magnesium palmitoyl glutamate, palmitic acid and Palmitoyl proline (Sepifeel One® from Seppic);
[0092] - lactylates, such as Sodium stearoyl lactylate (Akoline SL® from Karlshamns AB);
[0093] - sarcosinates, such as sodium palmitoyl sarcosinate (Nikkol sarcosinate PN) or the mixture of Stearoyl sarcosine and Myristoyl sarcosine 75 / 25 (Crodasin SM® from Croda);
[0094] - sulfonates, such as Sodium C14-17 alkyl sec sulfonate (Hostapur SAS 60® from Clariant);
[0095] - glycinates, such as sodium cocoyl glycinate (Amilite GCS-12® of Ajinomoto). Aqueous phase
[0096] An aqueous phase contains water, and optionally at least one organic solvent soluble or miscible in water.
[0097] The water used may be sterile demineralized water and / or floral water such as rose water, cornflower water, chamomile water or linden water, and / or natural thermal or mineral water, such as for example: Vittel water, waters from Vichy basin, Uriage water, Roche Posay water, Bourboule water, Enghien-les-Bains water, Saint Gervais-les-Bains water, Néris-les-Bains water, Allevar-les-Bains water, Digne water, Maizières water, Neyrac-les-Bains water, Lons-le-Saunier water, Eaux Bonnes, Rochefort water, Saint Christau water, Fumades water and Tercis-les-Bains water, Avène water.
[0098] An aqueous phase may also comprise at least one organic solvent miscible in water, at 25°C.
[0099] Preferably, the water-miscible organic solvent is chosen from alcohols, polyols and their mixtures.
[0100] Among the alcohols, mention may be made of C1-C10 alcohols, more preferably C1-C5, such as ethanol, isopropanol, propanol and butanol.
[0101] The polyol is preferably chosen from polyols having from 2 to 20 carbon atoms, more preferably from 2 to 10 carbon atoms, such as glycerol, diglycerol, propylene glycol, isoprene glycol, dipropylene glycol, butylene glycol, hexylene glycol, 1,2-propanediol, 1,3-propanediol, 1,5-pentanediol, pentylene glycol, 1,2-octanediol (caprylyl glycol), polyethylene glycols having from 2 to 200 ethylene oxide units and mixtures thereof. Hyaluronic acid and / or one of its salts
[0102] Hyaluronic acid is a linear, non-sulfated glycosaminoglycan composed of repeating units of D-glucuronic acid and N-acetyl-D-glucosamine.
[0103] According to the invention, the hyaluronic acid preferably has a number-average molecular weight ranging from 500 Da to 10 MDa, and more particularly ranging from 2 KDa to 2 MDa.
[0104] As hyaluronic acid suitable for the present invention, mention may in particular be made of hyaluronic acids of animal origin, of animal origin or crosslinked, such as those sold under the name Hylaform® by the company Genzyme, or hyaluronic acids of genetic origin including those intended for superficial, periorbital or perioral wrinkles, such as those sold under the name Restylane Fine Lines® by Laboratoire Q-Med, or intended for deep wrinkles, labio-mental depressions and ovals of the face, such as those sold under the names Perlane® and Restylane Sub-Q® by Laboratoire Q-Med. Preferably, as hyaluronic acid suitable for the present invention, mention may be made of those sold under the name Restylane® by Laboratoire Q-Med and under the name Surgiderm® by Laboratoire Cornéal.
[0105] Mention may also be made of low molecular weight hyaluronic acid (50 kDa) offered by Evonik under the name Hyacare 50®.
[0106] Among the hyaluronic acid salts, mention may in particular be made of sodium salts, potassium salts, zinc salts, silver salts, and mixtures thereof. More particularly Specifically, as hyaluronic acid salts, mention may be made of potassium hyaluronate and sodium hyaluronate, preferably sodium hyaluronate. Also considered within the scope of the invention is sodium hyaluronate with a molecular weight of 1,100,000 Daltons marketed by the company Soliance under the name Cristalhyal®.
[0107] Preferably, the hyaluronic acid is present in a salified form, preferably in the form of sodium hyaluronate. Vitamins
[0108] Each composition may comprise one or more vitamins and / or one of their derivatives, for example niacinamide and / or one of its derivatives, ascorbic acid and / or one of its derivatives, panthenol and / or one of its derivatives, tocopherol and / or one of its derivatives.
[0109] Niacinamide has the following structure:
[0110] [Chem.2]
[0111] Niacinamide or nicotinamide is vitamin PP, which is a form of vitamin B3, and has the CAS number 98-92-0. This material is also known as nicotinic acid amide and vitamin B3.
[0112] By "niacinamide derivative" is preferably meant a compound in which the amide group of niacinamide is secondary or tertiary, preferably substituted by one or two alkyl groups independently chosen from C1-C4 alkyl groups.
[0113] For example, we can cite the nicotinic acid product marketed by the company DSM Nutritional Products.
[0114] Ascorbic acid preferably corresponds to L-ascorbic acid, or vitamin C. It has the following structure (II):
[0115] [Chem.3]
[0116] By "ascorbic acid derivative" is preferably meant a compound chosen from 5,6-di-O-dimethylsilylascorbate (notably sold by the company Exsymol under the reference PRO-AA®), the potassium salt of DL-alpha-tocopheryl-DL-ascorbyl-phosphate also called Potassium Ascorbyl Tocopheryl Phosphate (sold by the company SEPPIC under the reference SEPIVITAL EPC®), magnesium ascorbyl phosphate, sodium ascorbyl phosphate (sold by the company DSM under the reference Stay-C 50®), disodium ascorbyl sulfate, sulfinyl-L-ascorbic acid, glucopyranosyl-L-ascorbic acid and ascorbyl glucoside.
[0117] By "ascorbyl glucoside" is meant the condensation product of glucose, in D form, that is to say in the form of glucopyranose a or [3 or furanose a or [3, or in L form, with ascorbic acid, preferably in L form. Preferably, the ascorbyl glucoside is L-ascorbic acid 2-OaD-glucopyranoside, in particular available from the company HAYASHIBARA.
[0118] Examples include the product Ascorbic acid L® from RECKON ORGANICS (pure synthetic ascorbic acid) or Ascorbic acid Ultrafine powder® from DSM nutritional product (natural extract).
[0119] Panthenol (or vitamin B5) has the following structure formula (III)
[0120] [Chem.4]
[0121] By “panthenol derivative” is preferably meant C1-C8 panthenol esters and ethers.
[0122] For example, we can cite the product D-panthenol 75W® marketed by the company BASF.
[0123] Tocopherol preferably corresponds to α-tocopherol, or vitamin E. It has the following structure: formula (IV)
[0124] [Chem.5] (!V)
[0125] By "tocopherol derivative" is preferably meant esters and ethers of tocopherol, preferably C1-C24 esters and ethers, preferably C2-C18, such as tocopherol acetate, tocopherol palmitate, tocopherol linoleate, or tocopherol nicotinate.
[0126] For example, we can cite the product DL Alpha Tocopheryl acetate® marketed by the company EISAI. Other ingredients
[0127] Each composition may contain one or more of the active ingredients or excipients usual in the cosmetic and dermatological fields, such as moisturizing agents; emollients; gelling agents, for example natural gelling agents; active ingredients; antioxidants; perfumes; film-forming agents; colorants; sequestering agents; electrolytes; pH adjusters; fillers; preservatives; antioxidants; plant extracts and mixtures thereof. The quantities of these different excipients are those conventionally used in the fields considered. In particular, these quantities vary according to the desired purpose and may, for example, range from 0.01% to 20%, and preferably from 0.1% to 10% by weight of the total weight of the composition.
[0128] Of course, those skilled in the art will take care to choose the possible active ingredient(s) or excipient(s) added to the composition according to the invention such that the advantageous properties intrinsically attached to the composition in accordance with the invention are not, or not substantially, altered by the envisaged addition.
[0129] As thickeners, mention may be made of carboxyvinyl polymers such as Carbopols® (Carbomers) and Pemulen such as Pemulen TRI® and Pemulen TR2® (acrylate / C10-C30 alkylacrylate crosspolymer); polyacrylamides such as, for example, crosslinked copolymers sold under the names Sepigel 305® (CTFA name: polyacrylamide / C13-14 isoparaffin / Laureth 7) or Simulgel 600® (CTFA name: acrylamide / sodium acryloyldimethyltaurate copolymer / isohexadecane / polysorbate 80) by the company Seppic; polymers and copolymers of 2-acrylamido 2-methylpropane sulfonic acid, optionally crosslinked and / or neutralized, such as poly(2-acrylamido 2-methylpropane sulfonic acid) marketed by the company Hoechst under the trade name “Hostacerin AMPS®” (CTFA name: ammonium polyacryloyldimethyl taurate) or SIMULGEL 800® marketed by SEPPIC (CTFA name: sodium polyacryolyldimethyl taurate / polysorbate 80 / sorbitan oleate); copolymers of 2-acrylamido 2-methylpropane sulfonic acid and hydroxyethyl acrylate such as SIMULGEL NS® and SEPINOV EMT 10® marketed by SEPPIC; cellulose derivatives such as hydroxyethylcellulose; polysaccharides and in particular carrageenan and gums such as xanthan gum; water-soluble or water-dispersible silicone derivatives such as acrylic silicones, polyether silicones and cationic silicones and their mixtures.
[0130] The thickeners are preferably present in an amount of between 0.05% and 5% by weight, preferably between 0.1% and 3% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0131] Each composition may also comprise at least one polymer, in particular a hydrophilic polymer. Such a polymer is preferably a water-soluble or water-dispersible AMPS® polymer.
[0132] The water-soluble or water-dispersible AMPS® polymers preferably have a molar mass ranging from 50,000 g / mol to 10,000,000 g / mol, preferably from 80,000 g / mol to 8,000,000 g / mol, and even more preferably from 100,000 g / mol to 7,000,000 g / mol.
[0133] As water-soluble or water-dispersible homopolymers of AMPS suitable for the invention, mention may be made, for example, of crosslinked or non-crosslinked polymers of sodium 2-acrylamido-2-methyl propane sulfonate acid such as that used in the commercial product SIMULGEL 800® (CTFA name: Sodium Polyacryloyldimethyl Taurate), crosslinked polymers of ammonium 2-acrylamido-2-methyl propane sulfonate acid (INCI name: AMMONIUM POLYACRYLDIMEHYLTAURAMIDE) such as the product sold under the trade name HOSTACERIN AMPS® by the company Clariant.
[0134] As water-soluble or water-dispersible copolymers of AMPS in accordance with the invention, mention may be made, for example, of:
[0135] - crosslinked acrylamide / acrylamido-2-methyl propane sulfonate copolymers of sodium such as that used in the commercial product SEPIGEL 305® (CTFA name: 5 3028758 57 POLYACRYLAMIDE / C13-C14 ISOPARAFFIN / LAURETH-7) or that used in the commercial product sold under the name SIMULGEL 600® (CTFA name: ACRYLAMIDE / SODIUM ACRYLOYLDIMETHYLTAURATE / ISOHEXADECANE / POLYSORBATE-80) by the company SEPPIC;
[0136] - copolymers of AMPS® and vinylpyrrolidone or vinylformamide such as that used in the commercial product sold under the name ARISTOFLEX AVC® by the company CLARIANT (CTFA name: AMMONIUM ACRYLOYLDIME-THYLTAURATE / VP COPOLYMER) but neutralized by sodium hydroxide or potassium hydroxide;
[0137] - copolymers of AMPS® and sodium acrylate, such as for example co AMPS / sodium acrylate polymer such as that used in the commercial product sold under the name SIMULGEL EG® by the company SEPPIC or under the trade name SEPINOV EM® (CTFA name: HYDROXYETHYL ACRYLATE / SODIUM ACRYLOYLDIMETHYL TAURATE COPOLYMER);
[0138] - copolymers of AMPS® and hydroxyethyl acrylate, such as for example co AMPS® / hydroxyethyl acrylate polymer such as that used in the commercial product sold under the name SIMULGEL NS® by the company SEPPIC (CTFA name: HYDROXYETHYL ACRYLATE / SODIUM ACRYLOYLDIME-THYLTAURATE COPOLYMER (AND) SQUALANE (AND) POLYSORBATE 60) or as the product marketed under the name COPOLYMER ACRYLAMIDO-2-METHYL PROPANE SULFONATE DE SODIUM / HY-DROXYETHYLACRYLATE such as the commercial product SEPINOV EMT 10® (INCI name: HYDROXYETHYL ACRYLATE / SODIUM ACRYLOYLDIMETHYL TAURATE COPOLYMER);
[0139] - copolymers of AMPS® and ethoxylated cetearyl methacrylate, even tually crosslinked, such as Aristoflex® HMS, which is called AMPS / ethoxylated cetearyl methacrylate (25 EO) 80 / 20 copolymer, crosslinked by trimethylolpropane triacrylate (TMPTA) or Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate / Steareth-25 methacrylate crosspolymer in INCI name.
[0140] As a sequestering agent, mention may be made of ethylene diamine disuccinic acid (EDDS) or its salts. Ethylene diamine disuccinic acid is the compound of formula (VI):
[0141] [Chem.6] CL ,,OH t. ' • D H b HO„ Æ A, VV 'K OH O -K ' HO' '~O (VI).
[0142] Preferably, the salt of ethylenediaminedisuccinic acid is selected from alkali metal salts, such as potassium salts and sodium salts, ammonium salts, and amine salts. The alkali metal salts of ethylenediaminedisuccinic acid are more particularly preferred.
[0143] Preferably, the salt of ethylenediamine disuccinic acid used according to the invention is trisodium ethylenediamine disuccinate. Such a compound is, for example, that marketed under the name Natrlquest® E30 by the company Innospec Active Chemicals (dispersion of the compound at 37% by weight of active ingredient in water), or that marketed under the name Octaquest E30® by the company Octel Performance Chemicals.
[0144] The electrolyte may for example be chosen from sodium chloride or sodium sulfate.
[0145] Among the pH adjusters, mention may be made of mineral or organic acids such as hydrochloric acid, orthophosphoric acid, sulfuric acid, carboxylic acids such as acetic acid, tartaric acid, citric acid, lactic acid, sulfonic acids. Among the alkalizing agents, mention may be made, for example, of ammonia, alkali carbonates, alkanolamines such as mono-, di- and triethanolamines and their derivatives, sodium or potassium hydroxides.
[0146] Preferably, among the active ingredients that can be used, betaine, disodium EDTA, trisodium ethylenediamine disuccinate, adenosine, pentaerythrityl tetra-di-tbutyl hydroxyhydrocinnamate, magnesium gluconate, phytic acid, or perfumes are preferred.
[0147] Among the preferred preservatives, mention may be made of hydroxyacetophenone, salicylic acid, phenoxyethanol and mixtures thereof.
[0148] As a preferred plant extract, mention may be made of papaya extract (INCI: CARICA PAPAYA (PAPAYA) FRUIT EXTRACT).
[0149] The filler may be mineral or organic, preferably mineral.
[0150] The mineral fillers can be chosen from synthetic or natural mica; silica powder; talc; kaolin; boron nitride and their mixtures, advantageously silica powder. First composition
[0151] The first composition comprises between 1% and 8% by weight, relative to the total weight of the first composition, of an alpha-hydroxy acid.
[0152] Preferably, the alpha-hydroxy acid of the first composition is chosen from glycolic acid, citric acid, lactic acid, tartaric acid, malic acid or mandelic acid. Advantageously, the alpha-hydroxy acid is lactic acid.
[0153] Preferably, the alpha-hydroxy acid content in the first composition ranges from 1.5% to 6% by weight, preferably from 2% to 5% by weight, preferentially from 2.7% to 3.8% by weight, relative to the total weight of the first composition.
[0154] Optionally, the first composition may also comprise a beta-hydroxy acid (also referred to as beta-hydroxy acids, or BHAs). Preferably, the beta-hydroxy acid is salicylic acid.
[0155] Preferably, the beta-hydroxy acid content in the first composition ranges from 0.05% to 1% by weight (of active material), preferably from 0.1% to 0.5% by weight (of active material), preferably from 0.15% to 0.3% by weight (of active material), for example relative to the total weight of the first composition
[0156] Preferably, the first composition is an oil-in-water emulsion. By “oil-in-water emulsion” (or O / W emulsion) is meant a composition comprising an oily phase dispersed in an aqueous phase.
[0157] Preferably, the first composition is an exfoliating composition (also called a scrubbing composition). Such a composition makes it possible to break the bonds between the epidermal cells (keratinocytes), promoting desquamation (or exfoliation), by deliberately eroding the dead surface layers (scales) of the epidermal cells.
[0158] Oily phase
[0159] The first composition preferably comprises an oily phase.
[0160] The oily phase preferably comprises at least one oil, preferably a hydrocarbon oil, as defined above.
[0161] The oily phase may also comprise other fatty substances as defined above.
[0162] Preferably, the oily phase of the first composition comprises at least one oil chosen from hydrocarbon oils of plant origin; linear or branched, symmetrical or non-symmetrical, dialkyl ethers containing 6 to 22 carbon atoms per alkyl group; linear or branched hydrocarbons of mineral or synthetic origin; and synthetic esters as defined above. Advantageously, the first composition comprises an oil or a mixture of oils chosen from macadamia oil, dicaprylyl ether, squalane, isopropyl myristate, and any of their mixtures.
[0163] Preferably, the first composition comprises from 0.005% to 20% by weight of oily phase relative to the total weight of the first composition, more preferably from 0.01% to 15% by weight, even more preferably from 0.01% to 10% by weight.
[0164] Surfactants
[0165] The first composition may further comprise at least one surfactant, as defined above.
[0166] The surfactant of the first composition is preferably chosen from polyoxyethylenated (1-40 EO) and (1-30 PO) polyoxypropylenated (C16-C24) C16-C24 alkyl ethers; and monoesters of fatty acid (in particular of C8-C24 acid, and preferably of C10-C20) and of polyglycerol comprising from 1 to 12 glycerol units, preferably from 2 to 10 glycerol units. Advantageously, the surfactant of the first composition is from PPG-6 Decyltetradeceth-30, polyglyceryl-4 caprate, polyglyceryl-2 oleate, and any of their mixtures.
[0167] Preferably, the first composition comprises from 0.05% to 2% by weight of ten- sioactive relative to the total weight of the first composition, more preferably from 0.2% to 1% by weight, even more preferably from 0.3% to 0.5% by weight. Aqueous phase
[0168] The first composition comprises at least one aqueous phase, preferably continuous, the aqueous phase and its ingredients being as defined above.
[0169] The first composition preferably comprises at least 50% by weight of water relative to the total weight of the first composition, preferably at least 60% by weight.
[0170] The first composition preferably comprises from 50% to 90% by weight of water relative to the total weight of the first composition, more preferably from 60% to 89% by weight.
[0171] Preferably, the aqueous phase of the first composition comprises water, at least one Cl-CIO alcohol, preferably ethanol, and at least one polyol having in particular from 2 to 20 carbon atoms, preferably chosen from 1,3-propanediol, pentylene glycol, glycerol, 1,2-octanediol and any of their mixtures.
[0172] According to one embodiment, the aqueous phase of the first composition comprises water, glycerol, 1,3-propanediol and pentylene glycol. According to another embodiment, the aqueous phase of the first composition comprises water, ethanol, glycerol and 1,2-octanediol.
[0173] Preferably, the first composition comprises from 1% to 20% by weight of water-miscible organic solvent, relative to the total weight of the first composition, more preferably from 5% to 15% by weight. Vitamins
[0174] According to one embodiment, the first composition may further comprise niacinamide and / or one of its derivatives. These compounds are as defined above.
[0175] Preferably, the first composition comprises from 2 to 10%, preferably from 3 to 8%, preferentially from 4.5 to 5.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the first composition, of niacinamide and / or one of its derivatives. Other ingredients
[0176] The first composition may contain one or more other ingredients as defined above. Second composition
[0177] The second composition comprises between 2 and 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the second composition, of ascorbic acid and / or one of its derivatives. The ascorbic acid and / or one of its derivatives is as defined above.
[0178] Preferably, the content of ascorbic acid and / or one of its derivatives in the second composition ranges from 4% to 12% by weight, preferably from 5% to 9% by weight, preferentially from 6.5% to 7.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the second composition.
[0179] Preferably, the second composition further comprises between 0.01% and 5% by weight, preferably between 0.1% and 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the second composition, of hyaluronic acid and / or one of its salts, preferably between 0.2% and 1% by weight, preferentially 0.3% and 0.7% by weight. The hyaluronic acid and / or one of its salts is as defined above.
[0180] Preferably, the second composition further comprises between 0.05% and 14% by weight, preferably between 1% and 12% by weight, preferentially from 2% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the second composition, of a C-glycoside derivative of formula (V)
[0181] [Chem.7] x—R S— / (V)
[0182] in which
[0183] R represents an alkyl radical, saturated in C1 to C10, in particular in C1 to C4, and which can be optionally substituted by at least one radical chosen from OH, COOH or COOR"2, with R"2 being an alkyl radical, in C1-C4 saturated,
[0184] S represents a monosaccharide or a polysaccharide comprising up to 20 sugar units, in particular up to 6 sugar units, in pyranose and / or furanose form and of L and / or D series, said mono- or polysaccharide possibly being substituted by a hydroxyl group which is obligatorily free, and optionally one or more amine function(s) which are optionally protected, and
[0185] X represents a radical chosen from the groups -CO-, -CH(OH)-, -CH(NH2)-, -CH(NHCH2CH2CH2OH)-, -CH(NHPh)- and -CH(CH3)- and in particular a radical -CO-, -CH(OH)- or -CH(NH2)- and more particularly a radical -CH(OH)-,
[0186] the S-CH2-X bond represents a bond of C-anomeric nature, which can be a or [3, as well as their cosmetically acceptable salts, their solvates such as hydrates and their optical and geometric isomers.
[0187] The C-glycosides of formula (V) useful for implementing the invention are in particular those for which R denotes a saturated linear alkyl radical of C1 to C6, in particular of C1 to C4, preferentially of C1 to C2 and more preferentially a methyl radical.
[0188] Among the alkyl groups suitable for implementing the invention, it is possible in particular cite the methyl, ethyl, isopropyl, n-propyl, n-butyl, t-butyl, isobutyl, sec-butyl, pentyl, n-hexyl, cyclopropyl, cyclopentyl, cyclohexyl groups.
[0189] According to one embodiment of the invention, it is possible to use a C-glycoside derivative corresponding to formula (V) for which S can represent a monosaccharide or a polysaccharide containing up to 6 sugar units, in pyranose and / or furanose form and of L and / or D series, said mono- or polysaccharide having at least one hydroxyl function which must be free and / or optionally one or more amine functions which must be protected, X and R moreover retaining all of the definitions previously given. Advantageously, a monosaccharide of the invention may be chosen from D-glucose, D-galactose, D-mannose, D-xylose, D-lyxose, L-fucose, L-arabinose, L-rhamnose, D-glucuronic acid, D-galacturonic acid, D-iduronic acid, N-acetyl-D-glucosamine, N-acetyl-D-galactosamine and advantageously denotes D-glucose, D-xylose, N-acetyl-D-glucosamine or L-fucose, and in particular D-xylose.More particularly, a polysaccharide of the invention containing up to 6 sugar units may be chosen from D-maltose, D-lactose, D-cellobiose, D-maltotriose, a disaccharide combining a uronic acid chosen from D-iduronic acid or D-glucuronic acid with a hexosamine chosen from D-galactosamine, D-glucosamine, N-acetyl-D-galactosamine, N-acetyl-Dglucosamine, an oligosaccharide containing at least one xylose which may advantageously be chosen from xylobiose, methyl-6-xylobioside, xylotriose, xylotetraose, xylopentaose and xylohexaose and in particular xylobiose which is composed of two xylose molecules linked by a 1-4 bond. More particularly, S may represent a monosaccharide chosen from D-glucose, D-xylose, L-fucose, D-galactose, D-maltose and in particular D-xylose.Preferably, a C-glycoside derivative of formula (V) is used for which: R denotes an unsubstituted linear C1-C4, in particular C1-C2, alkyl radical, in particular methyl; S represents a monosaccharide as described above and in particular chosen from D-glucose, D-xylose, N-acetyl-D-glucosamine or L-fucose, and in particular D-xylose; X represents a group chosen from -CO-, -CH(OH)-, -CH(NH2)-, and preferably a -CH(OH)- group.
[0190] Acceptable salts of the compounds described in the present invention include conventional non-toxic salts of said compounds such as those formed from organic or inorganic acids. For example, mention may be made of salts of mineral acids, such as sulfuric acid, hydrochloric acid, hydrobromic acid, hydroiodic acid, phosphoric acid, boric acid. Also mentioned are salts of organic acids, which may comprise one or more carboxylic, sulfonic, or phosphonic acid groups. These may be linear aliphatic acids, branched or cyclic or aromatic acids. These acids may further comprise one or more heteroatoms chosen from O and N, for example in the form of hydroxyl groups. Mention may in particular be made of propionic acid, acetic acid, terephthalic acid, citric acid and tartaric acid. When the compound of formula (V) comprises an acid group, the neutralization of the acid group(s) may be carried out by a mineral base, such as LiOH, NaOH, KOH, Ca(OH)2, NH4 OH, Mg(OH)2 or Zn(OH)2; or by an organic base such as a primary, secondary or tertiary alkylamine, for example triethylamine or butylamine. This primary, secondary or tertiary alkylamine may comprise one or more nitrogen and / or oxygen atoms and may therefore comprise, for example, one or more alcohol functions; we can notably cite amino-2-methyl-2-propanol, triethanolamine, di-methylamino-2-propanol, 2-amino-2-(hydroxymethyl)-1,3-propanediol.Mention may also be made of lysine or 3-(dimethylamino)propylamine. Acceptable solvates for the compounds described in the present invention include conventional solvates such as those formed during the last step of preparation of said compounds due to the presence of solvents. By way of example, mention may be made of solvates due to the presence of water or linear or branched alcohols such as ethanol or isopropanol.
[0191] By way of illustration and non-limiting example of the C-glycoside derivatives more particularly suitable for the invention, the following derivatives may in particular be mentioned:
[0192] - C-[3-D-xylopyranoside-n-propan-2-one,
[0193] - CaD-xylopyranoside-n-propane-2-one,
[0194] - C-[3-D-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxy-propane,
[0195] - CaD-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxy-propane,
[0196] - l-(C-[3-D-fucopyranoside)-propan-2-one,
[0197] - l-(CaD-fucopyranoside)-propane-2-one,
[0198] - l-(C-[3-L-fucopyranoside)-propan-2-one,
[0199] - l-(CaL-fucopyranoside)-propane-2-one,
[0200] - l-(C-[3-D-fucopyranoside)-2-hydroxy-propane,
[0201] - l-(CaD-fucopyranoside)-2-hydroxy-propane,
[0202] - l-(C-[3-L-fucopyranoside)-2-hydroxy-propane,
[0203] - l-(CaL-fucopyranoside)-2-hydroxy-propane,
[0204] - l-(C-[3-D-glucopyranosyl)-2-hydroxyl-propane,
[0205] - l-(CaD-glucopyranosyl)-2-hydroxyl-propane,
[0206] - l-(C-[3-D-galactopyranosyl)-2-hydroxyl-propane,
[0207] - l-(CaD-galactopyranosyl)-2-hydroxyl-propane,
[0208] - l-(C-[3-D-fucofuranosyl)-propan-2-one,
[0209] - l-(CaD-fucofuranosyl)-propane-2-one,
[0210] - l-(C-[3-L-fucofuranosyl)-propan-2-one,
[0211] - l-(CaL-fucofuranosyl)-propane-2-one,
[0212] - CPD-maltopyranoside-n-propane-2-one,
[0213] - CaD-maltopyranoside-n-propane-2-one,
[0214] - C-[3-D-maltopyranoside-2-hydroxy-propane,
[0215] - CaD-maltopyranoside-2-hydroxy-propane,
[0216] their isomers and their mixtures.
[0217] According to one embodiment, C-[3-D-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxy-propane or CaD-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxy-propane, and better still C-[3-D-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxy-propane, can be advantageously used for the preparation of a composition according to the invention. According to a particular embodiment, a C-glycoside of formula (I) suitable for the invention may advantageously be C-beta-D-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxy-propane, whose INCI name is HY-DROXYPROPYL TETRAHYDROPYRANTRIOL, in the form of a solution at 30% or 70% by weight of active material in a water / propylene glycol mixture (30 / 70% or 70 / 30% by weight), notably marketed under the name MEXORYL SBB® or MEXORYL SCN® by Novéal (Chimex). In a particular embodiment, such a C-glycoside is present in concentrated form at 70% of active material; such a C-glycoside is marketed under the name MEXORYL SCS by NOVEAL.Of course, according to the invention, a C-glycoside derivative corresponding to formula (V) can be used alone or in a mixture with other C-glycoside derivatives and in any proportion.
[0218] A C-glycoside derivative suitable for the invention can in particular be obtained by the synthesis method described in document WO 02 / 051828.
[0219] Preferably, the second composition is an aqueous solution emulsified with an oily phase, with a gelled appearance. This composition may be called a “serum”. By “serum” is meant a composition with a fluid texture, a slightly gelled appearance, runny, and preferably concentrated in ascorbic acid (i.e. preferably at least 5% by weight of ascorbic acid). Oily phase
[0220] The second composition preferably comprises an oily phase.
[0221] The oily phase preferably comprises at least one oil, preferably a hydrocarbon oil, as defined above.
[0222] The oily phase may also comprise other fatty substances as defined above.
[0223] Preferably, the oily phase of the second composition comprises at least one oil chosen from oils of formula RCOOR' in which R represents the residue of a linear or branched fatty acid comprising from 1 to 40 carbon atoms and R' represents a hydrocarbon chain, in particular a branched one, containing from 1 to 40 carbon atoms. of carbon provided that R + R' is > 10; fatty amides; fatty alcohols which are liquid at room temperature with a branched and / or unsaturated carbon chain having from 12 to 26 carbon atoms; branched C8-C16 alkanes; and linear or branched, symmetrical or non-symmetrical dialkyl ethers containing 6 to 22 carbon atoms per alkyl group, as defined above. Preferably, the oily phase of the second composition comprises at least one other fatty substance chosen from fatty alcohols which are solid at room temperature with a linear carbon chain having from 12 to 26 carbon atoms. Advantageously, the second composition comprises an oil or a mixture of oils chosen from isododecane, isononyl isononanoate, isopropyl lauroyl sarcosinate, octyldodecanol, dicaprylyl ether, and optionally cetyl alcohol, and any of their mixtures.
[0224] Preferably, the second composition comprises from 1% to 25% by weight of oily phase relative to the total weight of the second composition, more preferably from 2% to 20% by weight, even more preferably from 2% to 15% by weight. Surfactants
[0225] When the second composition comprises at least one surfactant, it is as defined above.
[0226] The surfactant(s) of the second composition are preferably chosen from C8-C20 fatty acids, fatty acid esters (in particular C8-C24 acid esters, and preferably C16-C22 acid esters) and oxyethylenated and / or oxypropylenated glycerol ethers (which may comprise from 1 to 150 oxyethylenated and / or oxypropylenated groups), esters or mixtures of fatty acid esters of sucrose, maltose, glucose or fructose, fatty acid esters (in particular C8-C24 acid esters, and preferably C16-C22 acid esters) and polyol esters, polyoxyalkylenated fatty acid esters (in particular polyoxyethylenated and / or polyoxypropylenated), ethoxylated methyl glucose esters and condensates of at least one derivative of glutamic acid and an amino acid.Advantageously, the surfactant(s) of the second composition are chosen from stearic acid, PEG-40 monostearate, sucrose tristearate, glyceryl stearate, PEG-60 hydrogenated castor oil, PEG-20 methyl glucose sesquistearate, sodium dilauramidoglutamide lysine, and any of their mixtures.
[0227] According to one embodiment, the second composition is substantially free of surfactants. By "substantially free of surfactants" is meant that the second composition has a surfactant content of less than or equal to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the second composition, preferably less than or equal to 1% by weight, preferably between 0.05% and 1% by weight. Aqueous phase
[0228] The second composition comprises at least one aqueous phase, the aqueous phase and its ingredients being as defined above.
[0229] The second composition preferably comprises at least 30% by weight of water relative to the total weight of the second composition, preferably at least 50% by weight. The second composition preferably comprises from 30% to 80% by weight of water relative to the total weight of the second composition, more preferably from 50% to 70% by weight.
[0230] Preferably, the aqueous phase of the second composition comprises water, at least one Cl-CIO alcohol, preferably ethanol, and at least one polyol having in particular from 2 to 20 carbon atoms, preferably chosen from 1,3-propanediol, pentylene glycol, glycerol, 1,2-octanediol and any of their mixtures.
[0231] According to one embodiment, the aqueous phase of the second composition comprises water, glycerol, 1,3-propanediol and pentylene glycol. According to another embodiment, the aqueous phase of the second composition comprises water, ethanol, glycerol, 1,2-octanediol, and any of their mixtures.
[0232] Preferably, the second composition comprises from 5% to 30% by weight of water-miscible organic solvent, relative to the total weight of the second composition, more preferably from 12% to 20% by weight. Other ingredients
[0233] The second composition may contain one or more other ingredients as defined above. Third composition
[0234] The third composition comprises at least one UV filter. UV filters
[0235] The UV filter may be chosen from hydrophilic, lipophilic or insoluble organic UV filters and / or one or more mineral pigments. Preferably, the UV filter is at least one hydrophilic, lipophilic or insoluble organic UV filter.
[0236] By "hydrophilic UV filter" is meant any organic or inorganic cosmetic or dermatological compound filtering UV radiation capable of being completely dissolved in the molecular state in a liquid aqueous phase or of being solubilized in colloidal form (for example in micellar form) in a liquid aqueous phase.
[0237] By "lipophilic filter" is meant any organic or inorganic cosmetic or dermatological compound filtering UV radiation capable of being completely dissolved in the molecular state in a liquid fatty phase or of being solubilized in colloidal form (for example in micellar form) in a liquid fatty phase.
[0238] By "insoluble UV filter" is meant any organic or inorganic cosmetic or dermatological compound filtering UV radiation having a solubility in water of less than 0.5% by weight and a solubility of less than 0.5% by weight in most organic solvents such as paraffin oil, fatty alcohol benzoates and fatty acid triglycerides, for example Miglyol 812® marketed by the company DYNAMIT NOBEL. This solubility, achieved at 70°C, is defined as the quantity of product in solution in the solvent at equilibrium with an excess of solid in suspension after returning to room temperature. It can easily be evaluated in the laboratory.
[0239] By “organic UVA filter” is meant any organic chemical molecule capable of absorbing at least UVA radiation in the wavelength range between 320 and 400 nm; said molecule can also additionally absorb UVB radiation in the wavelength range between 280 and 320 nm.
[0240] By “organic UVB filter” is meant any organic chemical molecule capable of exclusively absorbing UVB radiation in the wavelength range between 280 and 320 nm.
[0241] The organic UV filters are in particular chosen from cinnamic compounds; anthranilate compounds; salicylic compounds; dibenzoylmethane compounds; benzylidene camphor compounds; benzophenone compounds; [3,[3-diphenylacrylate] compounds; triazine compounds; benzotriazole compounds; benzalmalonate compounds in particular those cited in patent US5624663; benzimidazole derivatives; imidazoline compounds; bis-benzoazolyl compounds as described in patents EP 669 323 and US 2,463,264; methylene bis-(hydroxyphenyl benzotriazole) compounds as described in applications US 5,237,071, US 5,166,355, GB 2303549, DE 197 26 184 and EP 893 119; benzoxazole compounds as described in patent applications EP 0 832 642, EP 1 027 883, EP 1 300 137 and DE 10 162 844; filter polymers and filter silicones such as those described in particular in application WO-93 / 04665;dimers derived from α-alkylstyrene such as those described in patent application DE 19 855 649; 4,4-diarylbutadienes compounds as described in applications EP 0 967 200, DE 19 746 654, DE 19 755 649, EP-A-1008586, EP 1 133 980 and EP 133 981, and mixtures thereof.;
[0242] Examples of organic photoprotective agents include those designated below by their INCI name and / or their chemical name. Cinnamic compounds:
[0243] Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate sold in particular under the trade name PARSOL ® MCX by DSM Nutritial Products,
[0244] Isoamyl p-Methoxycinnamate sold under the trade name NEO HELIOPAN E 1000 ® by Symrise, Dibenzoylmethane compounds:
[0245] Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane sold in particular under the trade name PARSOL ® 1789 by DSM Nutritial Products, Salicylic compounds:
[0246] Homosalate sold under the name “Parsol® HMS” by the company DSM Nutritional Products,
[0247] Ethylhexyl Salicylate sold under the name “NEO HELIOPAN ® OS” by Symrise, P,P-diphenylacrylate compounds:
[0248] Octocrylene sold in particular under the trade name “UVINUL ® N 539 T” by BASF, Benzophenone compounds:
[0249] Benzophenone-3 or Oxybenzone, sold under the trade name “UVINUL ® M 40” by BASF,
[0250] 2-(4-diethylamino-2-hydroxybenzoyl)-benzoate de n-hexyle, with INCI name Di-thylamino hydroxybenzoyl hexyl benzoate, sold under the trade name “UVINUL® A Plus” or in a mixture with ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate under the trade name “UVINUL® A Plus B” by the company BASF,
[0251] 1,1 '-(1,4-piperazinediyl)bis[ l-[2-[4-(diethylamino)-2-hydroxybenzoyl]phenyl]-metha none (CAS 919803-06-8) as described in application WO 2007 / 071584; this compound being advantageously used in micronized form (average size of 0.02 to 2 pm) which can be obtained for example according to the micronization process described in applications GB-A-2 303 549 and EP-A-893119 and in particular in the form of an aqueous dispersion, Benzylidene camphor compounds:
[0252] 4-Methylbenzylidene camphor sold under the name “EUSOLEX ® 6300” by MERCK,
[0253] Terephthalylidene Dicamphor Sulfonic Acid manufactured under the name “MEXORYL ® SX” by NOVEAL, Phenyl benzimidazole compounds:
[0254] Phenylbenzimidazole Sulfonic Acid sold in particular under the trade name “EUSOLEX ® 232” by MERCK. Bis-benzoazolyl compounds:
[0255] Disodium Phenyl Dibenzimidazole Tetra-sulfonate sold under the trade name " NEO HELIOPAN ® AP » by Symrise, Phenyl benzotriazole compounds:
[0256] Drometrizole Trisiloxane sold under the name “MEXORYL ® XL” by NOVEAL,
[0257] Methylene bis-(hvdroxvphénvl benzotriazole) compounds:
[0258] Methylene bis-Benzotriazolyl Tetramethylbutylphenol in particular in solid form such as the product sold under the trade name “MIXXIM BB / 100 ®” by FAIRMOUNT CHEMICAL or in the form of an aqueous dispersion of micronized particles having an average particle size which varies from 0.01 to 5 pm, and more preferably from 0.01 to 2 pm, and more particularly from 0.020 to 2 pm, with at least one alkylpolyglycoside surfactant of structure CnH2n+iO(C6Hi0O5)xH in which n is an integer from 8 to 16 and x is the average degree of polymerization of the unit (C6Hio05) and varies from 1.4 to 1.6 as described in patent GB-A-2 303 549 in particular sold under the trade name “TINOSORB ® M” by BASF or in the form of a dispersion aqueous solution of micronized particles having an average particle size which varies from 0.02 to 2 pm, and more preferably from 0.01 to 1.5 pm, and more particularly from 0.02 to 1 pm,in the presence of at least one mono-(C8-C20)alkyl-ester of polyglycerol having a degree of polymerization of glycerol of at least 5 such as the aqueous dispersions described in application WO 2009 / 063392, in particular the product marketed under the name “TINOSORB ® WPGL” by the company BASF, Triazine compounds:,
[0259] - 3,3'-(l,4-Phenylene)bis(5,6-diphenyl-l,2,4-triazine), INCI name Phenylene Bis-Diphenyl triazine,
[0260] - Bis-Ethylhexyloxyphenol Methoxyphenyl Triazine sold under the trade name “TINOSORB ® S” by BASF, and in its water-dispersible form with the INCI name Bis-Ethylhexyloxyphenol Methoxyphenyl Triazine (and) Acrylates / C12-22 Alkyl Methacrylate Copolymer, under the trade name TINOSORB® S LiteAqua by BASF,
[0261] - Ethylhexyl Triazone sold in particular under the trade name “UVINUL ® T 150» by BASF,
[0262] - Diethylhexyl Butamido Triazone sold under the trade name “UVASORB ® HEB » by 3V SIGMA,
[0263] - symmetrical triazine filters substituted by naphthalenyl groups or polyphenyl groups described in US patent 6,225,467, application WO 2004 / 085412 (see compounds 6 and 9) or the document “Symetrical Triazine Derivatives” IP.COM IPCOM000031257 Journal, INC WEST HENRIETTA, NY, US (September 20, 2004), in particular 2,4,6-tris(bi-phenyl)-triazine and 2,4,6-tris(ter-phenyl)-triazine marketed under the name TINOSORB® A2B by the company BASF and which is included in patent applications WO 06 / 035000, WO 06 / 034982, WO 06 / 034991, WO 06 / 035007, WO 2006 / 034992, WO 2006 / 034985, these compounds being advantageously used in micronized form (average particle size of 0.02 to 3 pm) which can be obtained for example according to the micronization process described in applications GB-A-2 303 549 and EP-A-893119 and in particular in aqueous dispersion form, Anthranilic compounds:
[0264] Menthyl anthranilate sold under the trade name “NEO HELIOPAN ® MA” by Symrise. Benzalmalonate compounds:
[0265] Polyorganosiloxane with benzalmalonate functions such as Polysilicone-15 sold under the trade name “PARSOL ® SLX” by the company DSM Nu-tritional Products, Benzoxazole compounds:
[0266] 2,4-bis-[5-l(dimethylpropyl)benzoxazol-2-yl-(4-phenyl)-imino]-6-(2-ethylhexyl)-imi no-l,3,5-triazine sold under the name “Uvasorb ® K2A” by 3V Sigma,
[0267] 2-[4-(l,3-benzoxazol-2-yl)phenyl]-l,3-benzoxazole, cas number 904-39-2.
[0268] Les filtres organiques préférentiels sont choisis parmi :
[0269] Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate,
[0270] Ethylhexyl Salicylate,
[0271] Homosalate,
[0272] Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane,
[0273] Octocrylene,
[0274] Phenylbenzimidazole Sulfonic Acid,
[0275] Benzophenone-3,
[0276] Diethylamino hydroxybenzoyl hexyl benzoate,
[0277] 4-Methylbenzylidene camphor,
[0278] Terephthalylidene Dicamphor Sulfonic Acid,
[0279] Disodium Phenyl Dibenzimidazole Tetra-sulfonate,
[0280] Méthylène bis-Benzotriazolyl Tetramethylbutylphénol,
[0281] Bis-Ethylhexyloxyphenol Methoxyphenyl Triazine
[0282] Ethylhexyl Triazone,
[0283] Diethylhexyl Butamido Triazone,
[0284] 2,4,6-tris-(bi-phenyl)-triazine,
[0285] 2,4,6-tris-(ter-phenyl)-triazine
[0286] Drometrizole Trisiloxane,
[0287] Polysilicone-15,
[0288] Bis-(diethylaminohydroxybenzoyl benzoyl)piperazine,
[0289] et leurs mélanges.
[0290] Les filtres organiques particulièrement préférés sont choisis parmi :
[0291] Ethylhexyl Salicylate,
[0292] Homosalate,
[0293] Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane,
[0294] Octocrylene,
[0295] Diethylamino hydroxybenzoyl hexyl benzoate,
[0296] Terephthalylidene Dicamphor Sulfonic Acid,
[0297] Phenylbenzimidazole Sulfonic Acid
[0298] Bis-Ethylhexyloxyphenol Methoxyphenyl Triazine,
[0299] Ethylhexyl Triazone,
[0300] Diethylhexyl Butamido Triazone,
[0301] Bis-(diethylaminohydroxybenzoyl benzoyl)piperazine,
[0302] Drometrizole Trisiloxane,
[0303] 2,4,6-tris-(bi-phenyl)-triazine,
[0304] et leurs mélanges.
[0305] The inorganic UV filters used in accordance with the present invention may be metal oxide pigments. More preferably, the inorganic UV filters of the invention are metal oxide particles having an average elementary particle size less than or equal to 0.5 μm, more preferably between 0.005 and 0.5 μm, and even more preferably between 0.01 and 0.2 μm, even better between 0.01 and 0.1 μm, and more particularly between 0.015 and 0.05 μm. They are notably described in Annex VI updated on 09 / 22 / 2021 of the European Cosmetic Products Regulation number 1223 / 2009, but are not limited to this list.
[0306] They may in particular be chosen from titanium, zinc, iron, zirconium, cerium oxides or their mixtures.
[0307] Such coated or uncoated metal oxide pigments are in particular described in patent application EP-A-0 518 773. As commercial pigments, mention may be made of the products sold by the companies CRODA, TAYCA, and MERCK.
[0308] Metal oxide pigments may be coated or uncoated.
[0309] Coated pigments are pigments which have undergone one or more surface treatments of a chemical, electronic, mechanochemical and / or mechanical nature with compounds such as amino acids, beeswax, fatty acids, fatty alcohols, anionic surfactants, lecithins, sodium, potassium, zinc, iron or aluminum salts of fatty acids, metal alkoxides (titanium or aluminum), polyethylene, silicones, proteins (collagen, elastin), alkanolamines, silicon oxides, metal oxides or sodium hexametaphosphate.
[0310] The coated pigments are more particularly coated titanium oxides:
[0311] - of hydrated silica such as the product “MT-100WP®” from the company TAYCA,
[0312] - silica and iron oxide such as the product "SUNVEIL F®" from the company IKEDA,
[0313] - silica and alumina such as the products "MT-500SA®" and "MT-100SA®" from the TAYCA company, "TIOVEIL™ AQ-N" from CRODA company,
[0314] - alumina such as the products "TTO-55 (A)®" from the company ISHIHARA,
[0315] - alumina and aluminum stearate such as the products "MT-100TV®, MT- 100Z®, MT-01®" from TAYCA, the product "Solaveil™ CT100" from CRODA and the product "Eusolex T-AVO®" from MERCK,
[0316] - silica, alumina and alginic acid such as the product "MT-100AQ®" from the TAYCA company,
[0317] - alumina and aluminum laurate,
[0318] - iron oxide and iron stearate,
[0319] - zinc oxide and zinc stearate,
[0320] - of silica and alumina and treated with a silicone such as the products "MTY- 500SAS®" or "MICROTITANIUM DIOXIDE MT-100SAS®" from TAYCA,
[0321] - silica, alumina, aluminum stearate and treated with a silicone,
[0322] - silica and treated with a silicone,
[0323] - alumina and treated with a silicone such as the "TTO-55(S)®" products from the ISHIHARA company,
[0324] - triethanolamine,
[0325] - stearic acid such as the product "TTO-55 (C)®" from the company ISHIHARA,
[0326] - sodium hexametaphosphate,
[0327] - TiO2 treated with octyl trimethyl silane,
[0328] - TiO2 treated with a polydimethylsiloxane,
[0329] - anatase / rutile TiO2 treated with polydimethylhydrogensiloxane,
[0330] - TiO2 coated with triethylhexanoin, aluminum stearate, alumina sold under the trade name “Solaveil™ CT-200” from CRODA,
[0331] - TiO2 coated with aluminum stearate, alumina and silicone sold under the name commercial name “Solaveil™ CT-12W” from CRODA,
[0332] - TiO2 coated with lauroyl lysine,
[0333] - TiO2 coated with C9-C15 fluoroalcohol phosphate and aluminum hydroxide.
[0334] Mention may also be made of TiO2 pigments doped with at least one transition metal such as iron, zinc, manganese, and more particularly manganese. Preferably, said doped pigments are in the form of an oily dispersion. The oil present in the oily dispersion is preferably chosen from triglycerides including those of capric / caprylic acids. The oily dispersion of titanium oxide particles may additionally comprise one or more dispersing agents such as example a sorbitan ester such as sorbitan isostearate, a polyoxyalkylenated fatty acid and glycerol ester such as TRI-PPG3 MYRISTYLETHER CITRATE and POLYGLYCERYL-3 POLYRICINOLEATE. Preferably, the oily dispersion of titanium oxide particles comprises at least one dispersing agent chosen from polyoxyalkylenated fatty acid and glycerol esters. More particularly, mention may be made of the oily dispersion of manganese-doped TiO2 particles in capric / caprylic acid triglyceride in the presence of TRI-PPG-3 MYRISTYLETHER CITRATE and POLYGLYCERYL-3-POLYRICINOLEATE and SORBITAN ISOSTERATE with the INCI name: TITANIUM DIOXIDE (and) TRLPPG-3 MYRISTYLETHER CITRATE (and) POLYGLYCERYL-3 RICINOLEATE (and) SORBITAN ISOSTEARATE as the product sold under the trade name “OPTISOL™ OTP-1” by the company CRODA.
[0335] Uncoated titanium oxide pigments are, for example, sold by the company TAYCA under the trade names “MT-500B” or “MT-600B®”, by the company Evonik under the name “DEGUSSA P 25”.
[0336] Uncoated zinc oxide pigments are, for example:
[0337] - those marketed under the name “Z-COTE®” by the company BASF;
[0338] - those marketed under the name “NanoArc® Zinc Oxide” by the company Nanophase Technologies.
[0339] Coated zinc oxide pigments are for example:
[0340] - ZnO coated with polymethylhydrogenesiloxane;
[0341] - CRODA's “Solaveil™ CZ-100” dispersed in Cl2-15 alkyl benzonate (INCI: Zinc Oxide (and) C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate (and) Polyhydroxystearic Acid (and) Isostearic Acid);
[0342] - those marketed under the name and “DAITOPERSION Zn-60VA®” by Daito Kasei Company (dispersions in C9-12 alkane with a dispersing agent);
[0343] - those marketed under the name “SPD-Z5®” by the company Shin-Etsu (ZnO coated with silicone-grafted acrylic polymer, dispersed in cyclodimethylsiloxane).
[0344] Uncoated cerium oxide pigments may be, for example, those sold under the name RHODIGARD® W185 by the company Solvay.
[0345] Mention may also be made of mixtures of metal oxides, in particular titanium dioxide and cerium dioxide, including the equal-weight mixture of titanium dioxide and cerium dioxide coated with silica, as well as the mixture of titanium dioxide and zinc dioxide coated with alumina, silica and silicone or coated with alumina, silica and glycerin. According to the invention, coated or uncoated titanium oxide pigments are particularly preferred.
[0346] Preferably, the third composition comprises a mixture of gold UV filters ganic. Preferably, the third composition comprises a mixture of at least two organic UV filters chosen from Ethylhexyl Salicylate, Homosalate, Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane, Octocrylene, Phenylbenzimidazole Sulfonic Acid, Di-thylamino hydroxybenzoyl hexyl benzoate, Terephthalylidene Dicamphor Sulfonic Acid, Bis-Ethylhexyloxyphenol Methoxyphenyl Triazine, Ethylhexyl Triazone, Di-thylhexyl Butamido Triazone, Bis-(diethylaminohydroxybenzoyl benzoyl)piperazine, Drometrizole Trisiloxane and 2,4,6-tris-(bi-phenyl)-triazine.
[0347] Preferably, the total content of UV filter(s) in the third composition ranges from 5% to 40% by weight, preferably from 10% to 30% by weight, preferentially from 15% to 25% by weight, relative to the total weight of the third composition.
[0348] Preferably, the third composition is an oil-in-water (O / W) emulsion.
[0349] Preferably, the third composition is a day cream.
[0350] Oily phase
[0351] The third composition preferably comprises an oily phase.
[0352] The oily phase preferably comprises at least one oil, preferably a hydrocarbon oil and a silicone oil, as defined above.
[0353] Preferably, the oily phase of the third composition comprises at least one oil chosen from carbonates, such as dicaprylyl carbonate, and one oil chosen from non-volatile polydimethylsiloxanes, such as dimethicone.
[0354] Preferably, the third composition comprises from 1% to 10% by weight of oily phase relative to the total weight of the third composition, more preferably from 2% to 5% by weight. Surfactants
[0355] The third composition may further comprise at least one surfactant, as defined above.
[0356] The surfactant of the third composition is preferably chosen from polyoxyalkylenated fatty acid esters in association with a fatty acid ester of glycerol, alkyl and polyalkyl ethers of poly(ethylene oxide) whose number of ethylene oxide (EO) units varies from 2 to 200, and C8-C20 fatty acids. Advantageously, the surfactant of the third composition is chosen from the PEG-100 Stearate / Glyceryl Stearate mixture, steareth 100, stearic acid and any of their mixtures.
[0357] Preferably, the third composition comprises from 1% to 10% by weight of surfactant relative to the total weight of the third composition, more preferably from 2% to 8% by weight, even more preferably from 3% to 7% by weight. Aqueous phase
[0358] The third composition comprises at least one aqueous phase, the aqueous phase and its ingredients being as defined above.
[0359] The third composition preferably comprises at least 50% by weight of water relative to the total weight of the third composition, preferably at least 60% by weight.
[0360] The third composition preferably comprises from 50% to 90% by weight of water relative to the total weight of the third composition, more preferably from 60% to 85% by weight.
[0361] Preferably, the aqueous phase of the third composition comprises water, and at least one polyol having in particular from 2 to 20 carbon atoms, preferably chosen from glycerol, 1,2-octanediol and any of their mixtures.
[0362] According to one embodiment, the aqueous phase of the third composition comprises water, glycerol, 1,3-propanediol, and any of their mixtures.
[0363] Preferably, the third composition comprises from 1% to 10% by weight of water-miscible organic solvent, relative to the total weight of the third composition, more preferably from 2% to 6% by weight. Other ingredients
[0364] The third composition may contain one or more other ingredients as defined above. Silicones
[0365] The third composition may also comprise a silicone elastomer, preferably between 1 and 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the third composition, preferably between 2 and 5% by weight.
[0366] As silicone elastomer, mention may be made more particularly of crosslinked organopolysiloxane elastomers chosen from Dimethicone Crosspolymer (INCI name), Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer (INCI name), Dimethicone / Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer (INCI name), Dimethicone Crosspolymer-3 (INCI name).According to a particular embodiment, a silicone elastomer gel is used dispersed in a silicone oil chosen from a non-exhaustive list comprising cyclopentadimethylsiloxane, dimethicones, dimethylsiloxanes, methyltrimethicone, phenylmethicone, phenyldimethicone, phenyltrimethicone and cyclomethicone, preferably a linear silicone oil chosen from polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS) or dimethicones with a viscosity at 25°C ranging from 1 to 500 is at 25°C, in particular the following references: DIMETHICONE / VINYL DIMETHICONE CROSS POLYMER (and) DIMETHICONE, such as "KSG-6®" and "KSG-16®" from Shin Etsu; DIMETHICONE (and) DIMETHICONE CROSSPOLYMER, such as “DC9041®” from Dow Corning. . Fourth composition
[0367] The fourth composition comprises between 0.05% and 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the fourth composition, of retinol and / or one of its derivatives.
[0368] Retinol (vitamin A) has the following structure formula (VII):
[0369] [Chem. 8]
[0370] By "retinol derivatives" is preferably meant C1-C24 retinol esters such as retinyl palmitate.
[0371] Preferably, the content of retinol and / or one of its derivatives in the fourth composition ranges from 0.1% to 0.7% by weight, preferably from 0.2% to 0.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the fourth composition.
[0372] Preferably, the fourth composition further comprises between 0.5% and 5% by weight, preferably between 1% and 4% by weight, preferentially between 1.5% and 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the fourth composition, of at least one additional vitamin or one additional vitamin derivative chosen from tocopherol and / or one of its derivatives, ascorbic acid and / or one of its derivatives, panthenol and / or one of its derivatives and niacinamide and / or one of its derivatives, and / or any of their mixtures.
[0373] Preferably, the total amount of additional vitamin ranges from 0.5% to 8% by weight relative to the total weight of the fourth composition, preferably from 1% to 5% by weight, preferably from 1.5% to 3% by weight.
[0374] According to one embodiment, the fourth composition comprises panthenol and / or one of its derivatives and niacinamide and / or one of its derivatives.
[0375] According to another embodiment, the fourth composition comprises tocopherol and / or one of its derivatives and ascorbic acid and / or one of its derivatives.
[0376] Preferably, the fourth composition is an oil-in-water (O / W) emulsion.
[0377] Preferably, the fourth composition is a night cream.
[0378] Oily phase
[0379] The fourth composition preferably comprises an oily phase.
[0380] The oily phase preferably comprises at least one oil, preferably a hydrocarbon oil, as defined above.
[0381] Preferably, the oily phase of the fourth composition comprises at least an oil chosen from hydrocarbon oils having from 8 to 16 carbon atoms; and oils of formula RCOOR' in which R represents the residue of a linear or branched fatty acid containing from 1 to 40 carbon atoms and R' represents a hydrocarbon chain, in particular a branched chain, containing from 1 to 40 carbon atoms provided that R + R' is > 10, and any of their mixtures. Advantageously, the oily phase of the fourth composition comprises at least one oil chosen from isohexadecane, isononyl isononanoate, diisopropyl sebacate, and any of their mixtures.
[0382] Preferably, the oily phase of the fourth composition further comprises another fatty substance chosen from fatty alcohols which are solid at room temperature with a linear carbon chain having from 12 to 26 carbon atoms, such as cetyl alcohol.
[0383] Preferably, the fourth composition comprises from 5% to 20% by weight of oily phase relative to the total weight of the fourth composition, more preferably from 10% to 15% by weight.
[0384] Surfactants
[0385] The fourth composition may further comprise at least one surfactant, as defined above.
[0386] The surfactant of the fourth composition is preferably chosen from fatty acid esters (in particular of C8-C24 acid, and preferably of C16-C22 acid) and of polyol; fatty acid esters (in particular of C8-C24 acid, and preferably of C16-C22 acid) and oxyethylenated and / or oxypropylenated glycerol ethers (which may comprise from 1 to 150 oxyethylenated and / or oxypropylenated groups) and any of their mixtures. Advantageously, the surfactant of the fourth composition is chosen from sorbitan tristearete, PEG-40 monostearate, and any of their mixtures.
[0387] Preferably, the fourth composition comprises from 0.5% to 8% by weight of surfactant relative to the total weight of the fourth composition, more preferably from 1% to 5% by weight, even more preferably from 2% to 4% by weight. Aqueous phase
[0388] The fourth composition comprises at least one aqueous phase, the aqueous phase and its ingredients being as defined above.
[0389] The fourth composition preferably comprises at least 40% by weight of water relative to the total weight of the fourth composition, preferably at least 50% by weight.
[0390] The fourth composition preferably comprises from 40% to 90% by weight of water relative to the total weight of the fourth composition, more preferably from 50% to 85% by weight.
[0391] Preferably, the aqueous phase of the fourth composition comprises water, a C1-C10 alcohol, preferably ethanol, and at least one polyol having in particular from 2 to 20 carbon atoms, preferably chosen from glycerol, 1,2-octanediol, 1,3-propanediol and any of their mixtures.
[0392] Preferably, the fourth composition comprises from 5% to 20% by weight of water-miscible organic solvent, relative to the total weight of the fourth composition, more preferably from 10% to 17% by weight. Other ingredients
[0393] The fourth composition may contain one or more other ingredients as defined above. Cosmetic process
[0394] The present invention also relates to a cosmetic process for caring for keratin materials using the kit according to the invention.
[0395] Preferably, the first composition is as defined in the present application, according to any embodiment or variant, and / or the second composition is as defined in the present application, according to any embodiment or variant, and / or the third composition is as defined in the present application, according to any embodiment or variant, and / or the fourth composition is as defined in the present application, according to any embodiment or variant.
[0396] Preferably, the first series of steps and the second series of steps are spaced apart by a duration of at least 8 hours, preferably ranging from 8 to 20 hours, preferably ranging from 12 to 18 hours.
[0397] Preferably, the first series of steps is performed after a prolonged sleep phase (sleep phase of at least 5 hours, preferably between 5 hours and 12 hours), for example in the morning, and the second series of steps is performed before a prolonged sleep phase, for example in the evening.
[0398] Preferably, in the first series of steps, step a) is performed before step b) and step b) is performed before step c). Preferably, step a) is spaced from step b) by a duration of between 15 seconds and 5 minutes, and step b) is spaced from step c) by a duration of between 15 seconds and 5 minutes.
[0399] Preferably, in the second series of steps, step a') is carried out before step b') and step b') is carried out before step c'). Preferably, step a') is spaced from step b') by a duration of between 15 seconds and 5 minutes, and step b') is spaced from step c') by a duration of between 15 seconds and 5 minutes. Use
[0400] The present invention also relates to the cosmetic use of a kit according to the invention for reducing the appearance and / or attenuating the signs of aging of the keratinous materials, especially from the skin.
[0401] By reducing "signs of aging" is preferably meant the visibility of pores, an uneven skin tone, a tired appearance, a dull complexion, a loss of skin firmness, a loss of skin suppleness, dehydrated skin, the presence of wrinkles, the presence of fine lines and / or the presence of crow's feet.
[0402] The present invention also relates to a method for reducing the appearance and / or attenuating the signs of aging of keratin materials, in particular of the skin, comprising the application of the compositions of the kit according to the invention to said keratin materials, preferably according to the steps of the cosmetic method according to the invention.
[0403] The expressions “between ... and ...” and “ranging from ... to ...” must be understood inclusively, unless otherwise specified.
[0404] The following examples serve to illustrate the invention without, however, being limiting. In these examples, the quantities of the ingredients are given in % by weight relative to the total weight of each composition.
[0405] EXAMPLES
[0406] Example 1: Preparation of a kit according to the invention
[0407] A kit according to the invention is obtained by preparing the four compositions comprising the ingredients mentioned in the tables below, according to the following protocol:
[0408] First composition:
[0409] Heat phase A + A2 + A3 to 60°C while stirring at 1000 rpm.
[0410] When the phase is homogeneous, lower the temperature and add A4, sodium hydroxide, leave stirring for 5 min.
[0411] At around 30°C, add B+C and leave stirring for 5 min.
[0412] Then add phase D while stirring at 1800 rpm
[0413] Then add E at around 25°C, still stirring, and leave for 5 minutes at 1500 rpm.
[0414] Second composition:
[0415] Heat phase A to 65°C for 10 min, stirring at 1500 rpm.
[0416] Then add dilution water B and leave stirring to reduce the temperature to 45°C.
[0417] Add phase D while stirring at 3000 rpm. Leave for 10 min.
[0418] Add phase C while stirring at 3000 rpm. Leave stirring for 15 min. The tem temperature decreases to around 30°C.
[0419] Then add phase E with ascorbic acid, leave stirring for 10 minutes.
[0420] Then add phase F and leave stirring for 10 minutes.
[0421] Then add phase G and leave stirring for 10 minutes.
[0422] Then once returned to 25°C add phase H and leave stirring for 5 min.
[0423] Third composition:
[0424] Heat phase Al to 75°C while stirring at 1500 rpm. When the phase is homogeneous, add A2 while stirring at 2000 rpm and leave for 5 min.
[0425] Then add phase B at 75°C while stirring at 3000 rpm and leave for 10 min. When the phase is homogeneous, add dilution phase C at around 50°C and leave for 15 min while stirring.
[0426] At around 30°C add gelling phase D and leave stirring for 10 minutes.
[0427] Then add phase E at 3000 rpm and leave stirring for 15 min.
[0428] Fourth composition:
[0429] Heat phase B to 80°C for 30 min while stirring at 500 rpm; Once the phase is homogeneous, add phase A at RT and leave stirring for 10 min at 3000 rpm.
[0430] Add phase C and leave stirring for 10 min.
[0431] At around 40°C add phase D and leave stirring for 10 min at 3000 rpm.
[0432] Then add phase E and leave stirring for 10 minutes.
[0433] At around 30°C add phase F under inerting and leave for 10 min.
[0434] And finally add phase G and leave stirring for 5 minutes at 3000 rpm. Ingredient Phase First composition (% w / w) Water A Qsp 100 Glycerin A 3.0 Preservative A 0.3 Magnesium gluconate A 0.5 Salicylic acid A 0.20 Lactic acid (90% active matter) A2 3.0 Phytic acid A3 0.30 Base A4 0.59 Niacinamide B 5.0 Fruit extract (CARICA PAPAYA) C 1.0 PPG-6-DECYLTETRADECETH-30 D 0.20 POLYGLYCERYL-4 CAPRATE D 0.18 POLYGLYCERYL-2 OLEATE D 0.02 ISOPROPYL MYRISTATE D 0.01 Perfume D 0.02 Alcohol denat. E 4.5 Ingredient (INCI) Phase Second composition (% w / w) Water A 20 Glycerin A 10.0 Adenosine A 0.1 HYDROXYPROPYL TETRAHYDROPY- RANTRIOL (70% active ingredient) A 4.28 PEG-20 METHYL GLUCOSE SES-QUISTEARATE A 0.2 TRISODIUM ETHYLENEDIAMINE DL SUCCINATE A 0.1 SODIUM DILAURAMIDOGLUTAMIDE LYSINE A 0.35 Preservative A 0.30 Preservative A 0.5 Water B Qsp 100 Xanthan gum C 0.1 AMMONIUM POLYACRYLOYL- DIMETHYL TAURATE C 0.50 Sodium hyaluronate C 0.5 OCTYLDODECANOL D 0.50 Dicaprylyl ether D 1.0 ISOPROPYL LAUROYL SARCOSINATE D 1.0 Ascorbic acid E 7.0 Water E 10 Base E 1.58 PEG-60 HYDROGENATED CASTOR OIL F 0.0165 Perfume F 0.2 PHENYLBENZIMIDAZOLE SULFONIC ACID G 0.9 Base G PH Water G 7 Denatured alcohol H 5.0 Ingredient Phase Third composition (% w / w) BUTYL METHOXYDIBEN-ZOYLMETHANE Al 3.0 ETHYLHEXYL SALICYLATE Al 5.0 Octocrylene Al 7.0 Homosalate Al 5.0 Stearic acid Al 1.5 Glyceryl stearate (and) PEG-100 stearate Al 3.0 Dicaprylyl carbonate Al 0.50 Steareth-100 Al 0.4 Base Al 0.009 Preservative 1 Al 0.3 Fragrance Al 0.25 Filler A2 3.0 Water B 23.7 Glycerin B 3.0 Preservative 2 B 0.70 Hydroxyacetophenone B 0.5 Disodium EDTA B 0.2 Water C Qsp 100 Dimethicone D 2.0 Xanthan gum D 0.25 AMMONIUM POLYACRYLOYLDIMETHYL TAURATE D 0.6 DIMETHICONE (and) DIMETHICONE / VINYL DIMETHICONE CROSSPOLYMER E 1.0 Ingredient Phase Fourth composition (% w / w) Water A 25 TRISODIUM ETHYLENEDIAMINE DI-SUCCINATE A 0.5 Colorants A 0.0005 Glycerin A 8.0 Propanediol A 3.0 Adenosine A 0.1 Niacinamide A 2.0 PEG-40 stearate B 2.0 Sorbitan tristearate B 0.9 Diisopropyl sebacate B 2.7 Preservative 1 B 0.7 Preservative 2 B 0.5 PENTAERYTHRITYL TETRA-DLT-BUTYL HYDROXYHYDROCINNAMATE B 0.3 Isononyl isononanoate B 5.5 Cetyl alcohol B 2.5 Fragrance B 0.2 Water C Qsp 100 Panthenol C 0.50 Isohexadecane D 3.0 Hydroxyethylcellulose D 0.10 AMMONIUM POLYACRYLOYL- DIMETHYL TAURATE D 1.2 SODIUM POLYACRYLATE STARCH D 0.1 Filler E 2.0 SODIUM ACRYLATE / SODIUM ACRY- E 2.0 LOYLDIMETHYL TAURATE COPOLYMER (and) ISOHEXADECANE (and) POLYSORBATE 80 Retinol (10% active ingredient) F 3.0 Alcohol denat. G 3.0
[0439] Example 2: Preparation of a comparative reference kit
[0440] A comparative kit is obtained by preparing a first composition comprising the ingredients mentioned in the table below, and a second and third composition corresponding to the third and fourth compositions of the kit of Example 1, respectively. The protocol for preparing the first CCI composition is as follows:
[0441] First CCI composition:
[0442] Manufactured in Atex tanks and under inerting
[0443] Add Al ingredients to hot water and heat to 60°C.
[0444] Add B and disperse under turbine
[0445] Then add A2 and mix until completely dissolved and cool.
[0446] Add C under inerting.
[0447] Then add phases D and E.
[0448] And finally add phase F and mix until completely dissolved Ingredient First composition CCI (% w / w) Water Al Qsp 100 DIPROPYLENE GLYCOL Al 10.0 NEOHESPERIDINE DIHYDRO- CHALCONE Al 0.20 Tocopherol A2 0.5 LAURETH-23 A2 1.5 Hydrolyzed hyaluronic acid B 0.10 Ascorbic acid C 15.0 Base D 0.03 Water E 1 Alcohol denat. F 11.0 Glycerin F 4.20 PINUS PINASTER BARK / BUD EXTRACT F 0.25
[0450] Example 3: Comparison of the kit according to the invention of example 1 with the comparative kit of example 2
[0451] The performances of the kit according to the invention of example 1 and of the comparative kit of example 2 were evaluated by a panel of more than 110 consumers.
[0452] The consumer panel used the kit according to the invention on their face for one month, according to the method of the invention, and compared it with the comparative kit. The comparative kit was applied according to a similar method (the first and second compositions being replaced by the first CCI composition).
[0453] After 3 days, consumers using the kit according to the invention experienced 12 benefits on their skin, instead of only 9 benefits with the comparative kit. The three additional benefits are evenness of skin tone, reduction of pores and a fatigue-relieving effect. They also noted that the plumpness, suppleness and younger appearance of the skin were improved with the kit according to the invention compared to the comparative kit after 3 days.
[0454] After 7 days, consumers using the kit according to the invention felt 14 benefits on their skin, instead of only 10 benefits with the comparative kit. The four additional benefits are skin tone evenness, pore reduction, wrinkle reduction, and fine line reduction. They also found that skin plumpness and suppleness were improved with the invention kit compared to the comparison kit after 7 days.
[0455] After 14 days, consumers using the kit according to the invention experienced 14 benefits on their skin, instead of only 12 benefits with the comparative kit. The two additional benefits are the reduction of wrinkles and the reduction of fine lines. They also noted that the reduction of pores and the fatigue-relieving effect were improved with the kit according to the invention compared to the comparative kit after 14 days.
[0456] After one month, the panel perceived an acceleration in the kinetics of several anti-aging benefits (uniformity of complexion, plump appearance, skin suppleness, fatigue-relieving effect, younger appearance, reduction of fine lines and wrinkles, reduction of pores, reduction of crow's feet, appearance of healthy skin) compared to the comparative kit.
[0457] Example 4: Preparation of another kit according to the invention
[0458] Another kit according to the invention is obtained by preparing the four compositions comprising the ingredients mentioned in the tables below, according to the following protocol:
[0459] First composition:
[0460] Mix the Al phase and heat to 60°C
[0461] Add A2 until completely dissolved
[0462] Cool to 30°C and add phase C and mix
[0463] Add E and B to adjust the pH to around 4.3
[0464] Add phase D and mix well
[0465] Prepare phase F separately.
[0466] Mix 93% of preparation A1+A2+B+C+D+E with 7% of phase F Second composition:
[0467] Heat the fatty phase A to 60°C.
[0468] Heat the aqueous phase B1 to 60°C and homogenize while stirring for 5 min
[0469] Incorporate phase B2 while stirring (800 then up to 1400 rpm) to homogenize for 10-15 min.
[0470] After obtaining a homogeneous gel: addition of phase B3 to phase B.
[0471] Make the emulsion with stirring by incorporating A into B (2500-3000 rpm) for 10 min.
[0472] Begin cooling with an ice bath.
[0473] Addition of phase C and D at a T°< 40°C and homogenize for 10-15 min.
[0474] At the same time, prepare the vitamin C + soda solution adjusted to pH 6
[0475] Slowly incorporate the vit C solution into the formula, homogenize for 5 min.
[0476] Third composition:
[0477] Heat phase Al to 75°C while stirring at 1500 rpm. When the phase is homogeneous, add A2 while stirring at 2000 rpm and leave for 5 min.
[0478] Then add phase B at 75°C while stirring at 3000 rpm and leave for 10 min. When the phase is homogeneous, add dilution phase C at around 50°C and leave for 15 min while stirring.
[0479] At around 30°C add gelling phase D and leave stirring for 10 minutes.
[0480] Then add phase E while stirring at 3000 rpm and leave for 15 min. Fourth composition:
[0481] Heat phase B1+B2 to 80°C for 30 min with stirring at 500 rpm.
[0482] Once the phase is homogeneous, add the hot Al phase and leave stirring 10 min at 3000 rpm.
[0483] Add dilution phase C to cool and leave stirring for 10 min
[0484] At around 40°C add phase D and leave stirring for 10 min at 3000 rpm.
[0485] Then add phase E and leave stirring for 10 minutes.
[0486] Then add phase F while stirring.
[0487] At around 30°C add phase H under inerting and leave for 10 min.
[0488] Add phase I and leave stirring for 5 min at 3000 rpm.
[0489] Add phase G at 25°C Ingredient First composition (% w / w) Water Al Qsp 100 Carrageenan Al 0.093 Pentylene glycol Al 3.72 Glycerin Al 4.65 Salicylic acid A2 0.19902 Base B 1.325064 Sodium hyaluronate C 0.0093 Propanediol C 2.79 Betaine D 0.93 Sodium chloride D 0.93 Lactic acid (90% active ingredient) E 4.2036 Dicaprylyl ether F 1.8655 Macadamia temifolia seed oil F 0.4669 Squalane F 4.61755 Parfum F 0.05005 Ingredient Second composition (% w / w) Sucrose tristearate A 1.08 PEG-40 stearate A 2.4 Cetyl alcohol A 4.0 Glyceryl stearate A 3.0 Stearic acid A 1.2 ISONONYL ISONONANOATE A 5.0 Isopropyl lauroyl sarcosinate A 5.0 Water B1 Qsp 100 TRISODIUM ETHYLENEDIAMINE DI- SUCCINATE B1 0.25 Glycerin B1 12.0 Propanediol B1 2.25 Preservative B1 0.50 Pentylene glycol B1 3.0 HYDROXYPROPYL TETRAHYDROPY-RANTRIOL (30% active ingredient) B1 9.0 Sodium hyluronate B2 0.50 Sodium polyacrylate B2 0.50 Dilauramidoglutamide sodium lysine B3 0.35 Isododecane C 3.5 AMMONIUM POLYACRYLOYL- DIMETHYL TAURATE C 1.50 Perfume D 0.12 Water E 10 Base E 1.621 Ascorbic acid E 7.0 Ingredient Third composition (% w / w) BUTYL METHOXYDIBEN-ZOYLMETHANE Al 3.0 ETHYLHEXYL SALICYLATE Al 5.0 Octocrylene Al 7.0 Homosalate Al 5.0 Stearic acid Al 1.5 Glyceryl stearate (and) PEG-100 stearate Al 3.0 Dicaprylyl carbonate Al 0.50 Steareth-100 Al 0.4 Base Al 0.009 Preservative 1 Al 0.3 Fragrance Al 0.25 Silica A2 3.0 Water B 23.7 Glycerin B 3.0 Preservative 2 B 0.70 Preservative 3 B 0.5 Disodium EDTA B 0.2 Water C Qsp 100 Dimethicone D 2.0 Xanthan gum D 0.25 AMMONIUM POLYACRYLOYL- DIMETHYL TAURATE D 0.6 DIMETHICONE (and) DIMETHICONE / VINYL DIMETHICONE CROSSPOLYMER E 1 Ingredient Fourth composition (% w / w) Water Al 25 TRISODIUM ETHYLENEDIAMINE DI- SUCCINATE Al 0.2 Colorants Al 0.00128 Glycerin Al 8.00 Propanediol Al 3.0 Adenosine Al 0.1 Sorbitan tristearate B1 0.90 PEG-40 stearate B1 2.0 Diisopropyl sebacate B1 2.7 Preservative 1 B1 0.50 Preservative 2 B1 0.35 PENTAERYTHRITYL TETRA- DLT-BUTYL HYDROXYHYDRO- CINNAMATE B1 0.1 Isononyl isononanoate B1 5.5 Cetyl alcohol B1 2.50 Parfum B1 Tocopherol B2 1.00 Water C Qsp Isohexadecane D 3.0 AMMONIUM POLYACRYLOYL- DIMETHYL TAURATE D 1.20 Hydroxyethylcellulose D 0.1 Filler E 2.0 SODIUM ACRYLATE / SODIUM ACRY- LOYLDIMETHYL TAURATE COPOLYMER (and) ISOHEXADECANE (and) F 2.0 POLYSORBATE 80 Denatured alcohol G 3.0 Ascorbic acid H 0.50 Base H 0.1134 WATER H 5 Retinol (10% active ingredient) I 3.0
[0494] Example 5: Evaluation of the kit according to the invention of example 4
[0495] A consumer test was carried out by a panel of 50 consumers. This new panel used the kit according to the invention of Example 4 following the method according to the invention for 12 weeks.
[0496] The results perceived by consumers are summarized in the following table: Week 1 Week 4 Week 8 Week 12 Overall Appreciation 56% 66% 68% 60% Satisfaction 84% 86% 86% 82% Likelihood to Recommend 88% 94% 92% 86% Leaves skin feeling soft 80% 88% 90% 90% Gives skin a healthier appearance 86% 88% 94% 90% Skin appears smoother / refined 80% 90% 90% 86% Gives skin a healthy, radiant glow 72% 80% 88% 86% Leaves skin plumper 78% 78% 84% 82% Fine lines appear minimized / reduced 70% 82% 78% 80% Wrinkles appear minimized / reduced 70% 82% 76% 80% Crow's feet appear minimized / reduced 68% 86% 76% 78% Evens out skin tone 62% 70% 74% 74%
[0498] In addition to consumer perception, the effectiveness of the kit according to the invention was evaluated by a clinical study. Different effects on the skin were quantified after 12 weeks (W 12) compared to a reference base (Ref). The results obtained are reported in the table below. Mean (%) p-value Fine lines -23.7% <.001 Volume -16.6% <.001 Tactile softness -11.8% <.001 Radiance -10.7% <.001 Forehead wrinkles -25% <.001 Lower face discoloration -17.2% <.001
[0500] It has therefore been measured that the kit and the method according to the invention make it possible to achieve a performance threshold <-0.5 on the following effects: fine lines, volume, tactile softness, radiance, forehead wrinkles and dyschromia of the lower face.
[0501] These results show that the kit and the method according to the invention provide an acceleration of anti-aging benefits, from one week of application, then after 1 month and 3 months of application. This effectiveness was both perceived by consumers and measured by clinical studies.
[0502] The results obtained also showed that the different compositions were well tolerated by consumers, which is surprising given the very high content of active ingredients.
Claims
Claims
1. Kit, preferably for the care of keratin materials, comprising: - a first composition comprising between 1% and 8% by weight, relative to the total weight of the first composition, of an alpha-hydroxy acid, and optionally a beta-hydroxy acid, - a second composition comprising between 2% and 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the second composition, of ascorbic acid and / or one of its derivatives chosen from 5,6-di-O-dimethylsilylascorbate, the potassium salt of DL-alpha-tocopheryl-DL-ascorbyl-phosphate, magnesium ascorbyl phosphate, sodium ascorbyl phosphate, disodium ascorbyl sulfate, sulfinyl-L-ascorbic acid, glucopyranosyl-L-ascorbic acid and ascorbyl glucoside, - a third composition comprising at least one UV filter, and - a fourth composition comprising between 0.05% and 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the fourth composition,of retinol and / or one of its derivatives selected from C1-C24 retinol esters, wherein the first composition, the second composition, the third composition and the fourth composition are each placed separately from each other.,
2. Kit according to claim 1, wherein the alpha-hydroxy acid of the first composition is selected from glycolic acid, citric acid, lactic acid, tartaric acid, malic acid or mandelic acid, preferably is lactic acid.
3. Kit according to claim 1 or 2, wherein the alpha-hydroxy acid content in the first composition ranges from 1.5% to 6% by weight, preferably from 2% to 5% by weight, preferentially from 2.7% to 3.8% by weight, relative to the total weight of the first composition.
4. Kit according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the content of ascorbic acid and / or one of its derivatives in the second composition ranges from 4% to 12% by weight, preferably from 5% to 9% by weight, preferentially from 6.5% to 7.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the second composition.
5. Kit according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the third composition comprises a mixture of at least two organic UV filters chosen from Ethylhexyl Salicylate, Homosalate, Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane, Octocrylene, Phenylbenzimidazole Sulfonic Acid, Diethylamino hydroxybenzoyl hexyl benzoate, Terephthalylidene Dicamphor Sulfonic Acid, Bis-Ethylhexyloxyphenol Methoxyphenyl Triazine, Ethylhexyl Triazone, Diethylhexyl Butamido Triazone, Bis-(diethylaminohydroxybenzoyl benzoyl)piperazine, Drometrizole Tri-siloxane and 2,4,6-tris-(bi-phenyl)-triazine.
6. Kit according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the total content of UV filter(s) in the third composition ranges from 5% to 40% by weight, preferably from 10% to 30% by weight, preferentially from 15% to 25% by weight, relative to the total weight of the third composition.
7. Kit according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the content of retinol and / or one of its derivatives in the fourth composition ranges from 0.1% to 0.7% by weight, preferably from 0.2% to 0.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the fourth composition.
8. Kit according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the second composition further comprises between 0.01% and 5% by weight, preferably between 0.1% and 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the second composition, of hyaluronic acid and / or one of its salts, preferably between 0.2% and 1% by weight, preferentially 0.3% and 0.7% by weight.
9. Kit according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the second composition further comprises between 0.05% and 14% by weight, preferably between 1% and 12% by weight, preferentially from 2% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the second composition, of a C-glycoside derivative of formula (V) x—R s— / (V) in which R represents a saturated C1 to C10, in particular C1 to C4, alkyl radical and which may be optionally substituted by at least one radical chosen from OH, COOH or COOR"2, with R"2 being a saturated C1-C4 alkyl radical, S represents a monosaccharide or a polysaccharide comprising up to 20 sugar units, in particular up to 6 sugar units, in pyranose and / or furanose form and of L and / or D series, said mono- or poly- saccharide which can be substituted by a hydroxyl group which must be free, and possibly one or more amine function(s) which may be protected, and X represents a radical chosen from the groups -CO-, -CH(OH)-, -CH(NH2)-, -CH(NHCH2CH2CH2OH)-, -CH(NHPh)- and -CH(CH3)- and in particular a radical -CO-, -CH(OH)- or -CH(NH2)- and more particularly a radical -CH(OH)-, the S-CH2-X bond represents a bond of C-anomeric nature, which can be a or [3, as well as their cosmetically acceptable salts, their solvates such as hydrates and their optical and geometric isomers.
10. Kit according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the fourth composition further comprises between 0.5% and 5% by weight, preferably between 1% and 4% by weight, preferentially from 1.5% to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the fourth composition, of at least one vitamin or vitamin derivative chosen from tocopherol and / or one of its derivatives chosen from tocopherol esters and ethers, ascorbic acid and / or one of its derivatives chosen from 5,6-di-O-dimethylsilylascorbate, DL-alpha-tocopheryl-DL-ascorbyl-phosphate potassium salt, magnesium ascorbyl phosphate, sodium ascorbyl phosphate, disodium ascorbyl sulfate, sulfinyl-L-ascorbic acid, glucopyranosyl-L-ascorbic acid and ascorbyl glucoside, panthenol and / or one of its derivatives chosen from C1-C8 panthenol esters and ethers,and niacinamide and / or one of its derivatives selected from compounds in which the amide group of niacinamide is secondary or tertiary, and / or any of their mixtures.,
11. Cosmetic process for the care of keratin materials, preferably the skin, comprising: - a first series of steps, including: - a step a) of applying to said keratin materials a first composition comprising between 1 and 8% by weight, relative to the total weight of the first composition, of an alpha-hydroxy acid, and optionally a beta-hydroxy acid, - a step b) of application to said keratin materials of a second composition comprising between 2 and 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the second composition, of ascorbic acid and / or one of its derivatives chosen from 5,6-di-O-dimethylsilylascorbate, the potassium salt of DL-alpha-tocopheryl-DL-ascorbyl-phosphate, magnesium ascorbyl phosphate, sodium ascorbyl phosphate, disodium ascorbyl sulfate, sulfinyl-L-ascorbic acid, gluco-pyranosyl-L-ascorbic acid and ascorbyl glucoside, - a step c) of application to said keratin materials of a third composition comprising at least one UV filter, and - a second series of steps, comprising: - a step a') of application to said keratin materials of the first composition, - a step b') of application to said keratin materials of the second composition, and - a step c') of application to said keratin materials of a fourth composition comprising between 0.05% and 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the fourth composition, of retinol and / or one of its derivatives chosen from C1-C24 retinol esters.
12. A method according to claim 11, wherein the first composition is according to claim 2 or 3, and / or the second composition is according to any one of claims 4, 8 or 9, and / or the third composition is according to claim 5 or 6, and / or the fourth composition is according to claim 7 or 10.
13. Cosmetic use of a kit according to any one of claims 1 to 10 for reducing the appearance and / or attenuating the signs of aging of keratin materials, in particular of the skin.