Long-lasting foundation

Abstract

The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition in the form of a water-in-oil emulsion comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium: a) a copolymer of sebacic acid and hydrogenated castor oil, and b) an emulsifying system comprising at least two distinct polyglycerol and fatty acid esters, preferably C12-C20 and non-(poly)hydroxylated, preferably C18 and non-(poly)hydroxylated.

Description

Description Title of the invention: Long-lasting foundation FIELD OF THE INVENTION The present invention relates to the cosmetic field and in particular to compositions in the form of water-in-oil emulsions, especially for skin makeup, with a long-lasting, transfer-free effect. STATE OF THE ART We know the state of the art of skin compositions using film-forming polymers for a long-lasting makeup effect on the skin. "Wearability" refers to makeup that remains present and satisfactory at the end of the day. Good wear, for example, means a foundation that doesn't require touch-ups during the day. Furthermore, makeup formulas with "transfer-proof" properties are sought, meaning that the formula, and in particular the color, does not transfer onto fabrics that come into contact with the makeup applied to the skin (e.g., tissues, masks, clothing). We are currently looking for compositions that include more naturally derived ingredients, but without compromising on the sensory and staying power of the makeup. By "naturally sourced ingredients" we mean ingredients that come from nature but have been physically transformed or have been extracted or chemically treated. The Applicant has rightly demonstrated that the use of a film-forming polymer in the oil phase (a copolymer of sebacic acid and hydrogenated castor oil) and distinct C12-C20 non-(poly)hydroxylated polyglycerol and fatty acid esters makes it possible, in particular, to obtain a tinted product with a long-lasting, transfer-resistant effect and good sensory properties upon application. Specifically, the composition according to the invention is a water-in-oil emulsion providing smooth application, depositing a thin, second-skin-like film with a matte or luminous, comfortable, and very soft finish. Statement of the invention For this purpose, according to a first aspect of the invention, a cosmetic composition in the form of a water-in-oil emulsion is proposed, comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium: a) a copolymer of sebacic acid and hydrogenated castor oil, and b) an emulsifying system comprising at least two distinct polyglycerol and fatty acid esters, preferably C12-C20 and non-(poly)hydroxylated, preferably also C18 and non-(poly)hydroxylated. In particular, it is a makeup product for the skin of the face and / or neck. Another aspect of the invention is a cosmetic process for applying makeup to the skin, preferably the skin of the face and / or neck, comprising applying to the skin at least one layer of a cosmetic composition as defined according to the invention. DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION A first object of the invention is therefore a water-in-oil emulsion comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium: a) a copolymer of sebacic acid and hydrogenated castor oil, and b) an emulsifying system comprising at least two distinct polyglycerol and fatty acid esters, preferably C12-C20 and non-(poly)hydroxylated, preferably also C18 and non-(poly)hydroxylated. The water-in-oil emulsion according to the invention is advantageously a liquid composition. By "liquid" we mean a fluid composition that is capable of flowing under its own weight, at 20°C and atmospheric pressure (760 mm Hg), as opposed to so-called solid or semi-solid compositions. According to a particular mode, the composition of the invention comprises less than 5% by total weight of fats, in particular less than 2% by total weight of waxes and paste compounds, or is even devoid of waxes and paste compounds. According to the invention, "fatty substance" means a solid compound or a compound comprising a solid fraction at 25 °C. Examples include butters, waxes, pastes, and mixtures thereof. Pasty compounds are non-crystalline fatty compounds comprising, at a temperature of 25°C, a liquid fraction and a solid fraction. Film-forming polymer The composition of the invention therefore comprises a film-forming polymer comprising a copolymer of sebacic acid and hydrogenated castor oil. This film-forming polymer is made from compounds of natural origin (here, derived from plants) which have been collected and processed in the presence of a solvent. In a specific method, the copolymer with the INCI name HY- DROGENATED CASTOR OIL / SEBACIC ACID COPOLYMER will be used, which is notably sold by the company SpecialChem under the name Crodabond CSATM, This polymer is preferably incorporated into the fatty or oily phase of the composition of the invention. In a specific manner, the copolymer of sebacic acid and hydrogenated castor oil will be present in the composition at a concentration ranging from 0.1 to 10% by weight. in particular from 0.5 to 7% by weight, preferably from 1 to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. According to a particular mode, the composition of the invention does not comprise any other film-forming polymer than said copolymer of sebacic acid and hydrogenated castor oil. Emulsifying system (combination of two polyglycerol and fatty acid esters) The composition of the invention further comprises at least two distinct polyglycerol and fatty acid esters, preferably C12-C20 and non-(poly)hydroxylated, preferably 18 and non-(poly)hydroxylated. According to a particular mode, the composition of the invention shall comprise at least three distinct polyglycerol and fatty acid esters, preferably C12-C20 and non-(poly)hydroxylated, preferably 18 and non-(poly)hydroxylated. By 'fatty acid' in the expression polyglycerol and fatty acid esters, we mean in particular C6-C30 fatty acids, especially C12-C20, and preferably C18. Examples include citric acid (C6), capric acid (C10), lauric acid (C12), myristic acid (C14), palmitic acid (C16), stearic or isostearic acid (C18), ricinoleic acid (C18), oleic acid (C18), linoleic acid (C18) and mixtures thereof. Preferably, non-(poly)hydroxylated C12-C20 fatty acids should be used. Comme esters de polyglycérol et d’acide gras en C12-20 non (poly)hydroxylés uti- lisables selon l’invention, on peut citer notamment les composés suivants : Poly- glyceryl-2 Diisostearate, Polyglyceryl-3 Diisostearate, Polyglyceryl-10 Diisostearate, Polyglycerin-2 Dioleate, Polyglyceryl-3 Dioleate, Polyglyceryl-6 Dioleate, Poly- glyceryl-10 Dioleate, Polyglyceryl-6 Dipalmitate, Polyglyceryl-10 Dipalmitate, Poly- glyceryl-2 Distearate, Polyglyceryl-3 Distearate, Polyglyceryl-6 Distearate, Poly- glyceryl-10 Distearate, Polyglyceryl-10 Heptaoleate, Polyglyceryl-10 Heptastearate, Polyglyceryl-6 Hexaoleate, Polyglyceryl-10 Hexaoleate, Polyglyceryl-2 Isopalmitate, Polyglyceryl-2 Isostearate, Polyglyceryl-4 Isostearate, Polyglyceryl-S Isostearate, Po- lyglyceryl-6 Isostearate, Polyglyceryl-10 Isostearate, Polyglyceryl-2 Laurate, Poly- glyceryl-3 Laurate, Polyglyceryl-4 Laurate, Polyglyceryl-5 Laurate, Polyglyceryl-6 Laurate, Polyglyceryl-10 Laurate, Polyglyceryl-3 Myristale,Polyglyceryl-10 Myristate, Polyglyceryl-2 Oleate, Polyglyceryl-3 Oleate, Polyglyceryl-4 Oleate, Poly- glyceryl-5 Oleate, Polyglyceryl-6 Oleate, Polyglyceryl-8 Oleate, Polyglyceryl-10 Oleate, Polyglyceryl-3 Palmitate, Polyglyceryl-6 Palmitate, Polyglyceryl-10 Pentalaurate, Polyglyceryl-10 Pentalinoleate, Polyglyceryl-4 Pentaoleate, Poly- glyceryl-10 Pentaoleate, Polyglyceryl-3 Pentaricinoleate, Polyglyceryl-6 Pentari- , cinoleate, Polyglyceryl-10 Pentaricinoleate, Polyglyceryl-4 Pentastearate, Poly- glyceryl-6 Pentastearate, Polyglyceryl-10 Pentastearate, Polyglyceryl-3 Polyri- cinoleate, Polyglyceryl-6 Polyricinoleate, Polyglyceryl-3 Ricinoleate, Polyglyceryl-2 Sesquiisostearate, Polyglyceryl-2 Sesquioleate, Polyglyceryl-2 Sesquistearate, Poly- glyceryl-3 Stearate, Polyglyceryl-2 Stearate, Polyglyceryl-4 Stearate, Polyglycery1-8 Stearate, Polyglyceryl-10 Stearate, Polyglyceryl-2 Tetraisostearate, Polyglyceryl-6 Te- traoleate, Polyglyceryl-10 Tetraoleate, Polyglyceryl-2 Tetrastearate, Polyglyceryl-2 Triisostearate, Polyglyceryl-3 Triisostearate, Polyglyceryl-10 Trioleate, Polyglyceryl-4 Tristearate, Polyglyceryl Tristearate, Polyglyceryl-10 Tristearate, et leurs mélanges. Comme esters de polyglycérol et d'acide gras en C18 non (poly)hydroxylés uti- lisables selon l’invention, on peut citer notamment les composés suivants : Poly- glyceryl-2 Diisostearate, Polyglyceryl-3 Diisostearate,Polyglyceryl-10 Diisostearate, Polyglycerin-2 Dioleate, Polyglyceryl-3 Dioleate, Polyglycery1-6 Dioleate, Poly- glyceryl-10 Dioleate, Polyglyceryl-2 Distearate, Polyglyceryl-3 Distearate, Poly- glyceryl-6 Distearate, Polyglyceryl-10 Distearate, Polyglycery1-10 Heptaoleate, Poly- glyceryl-10 Heptastearate, Polyglyceryl-6 Hexaoleate, Polyglyceryl-10 Hexaoleate, Polyglyceryl-2 Isostearate, Polyglyceryl-4 Isostearate, Polyglyceryl-5 Isostearate, Po- lyglyceryl-6 Isostearate, Polyglyceryl-10 Isostearate, Polyglyceryl-2 Oleate, Poly- glyceryl-3 Oleate, Polyglyceryl-4 Oleate, Polyglyceryl-5 Oleate, Polyglyceryl-6 Oleate, Polyglyceryl-8 Oleate, Polyglyceryl-10 Oleate, Polyglyceryl-10 Pentalinoleate, Polyglyceryl-4 Pentaoleate, Polyglyceryl-10 Pentaoleate, Polyglyceryl-3 Pentari- cinoleate, Polyglyceryl-6 Pentaricinoleate, Polyglyceryl-10 Pentaricinoleate, Poly- glyceryl-4 Pentastearate, Polyglycery1l-6 Pentastearate, Polyglyceryl-10 Pentastearate, Polyglyceryl-3 Polyricinoleate,Polyglyceryl-6 Polyricinoleate, Polyglyceryl-3 Ri- cinoleate, Polyglyceryl-2 Sesquiisostearate, Polyglyceryl-2 Sesquioleate, Polyglyceryl- 2 Sesquistearate, Polyglyceryl-3 Stearate, Polyglyceryl-2 Stearate, Polyglyceryl-4 Stearate, Polyglyceryl-8 Stearate, Polyglyceryl-10 Stearate, Polyglyceryl-2 Tetra- isostearate, Polyglyceryl-6 Tetraoleate, Polyglyceryl-10 Tetraoleate, Polyglyceryl-2 Te- trastearate, Polyglyceryl-2 Triisostearate, Polyglyceryl-3 Triisostearate, Polyglyceryl- 10 Trioleate, Polyglyceryl-4 Tristearate, Polyglyceryl Tristearate, Polyglyceryl-10 Tristearate, and their mixtures. , In a specific manner, the two distinct C18 polyglycerol and fatty acid esters are chosen respectively: for the first, in the group consisting of polyglycerol and (poly)ricinoleic acid esters, and for the second, in the group consisting of polyglycerol and (dijoleic) acid esters. Thus, according to a particular method, the emulsifying system of the composition of The invention will include: at least one ester of polyglycerol and (poly)ricinoleic acid in particular chosen from the group consisting of: Polyglyceryl-3 Pentaricinoleate, Poly- glyceryl-6 Pentaricinoleate, Polyglyceryl-10 Pentaricinoleate, Polyglyceryl-3 Polyricinoleate, Polyglyceryl-6 Polyricinoleate, Polyglyceryl-3 Ricinoleate, preferably Polyglyceryl-3 Polyricinoleate or Polyglyceryl-6 Polyri- cinoleate, preferably Polyglyceryl-6 Polyricinoleate; and ii. at least one polyglycerol and (di)oleic acid ester, in particular selected in the group consisting of: Polyglyceryl-10 Decalinoleate, Poly- glyceryl-10 Decaoleate, Polyglyceryl-2 Dioleate, Polyglyceryl-3 Dioleate, Po- lyglyceryl-6 Dioleate, Polyglyceryl-10 Dioleate, Polyglyceryl-10 Heptaoleate, Polyglyceryl-6 Hexaoleate, Polyglyceryl-10 Hexaoleate, Polyglyceryl-2 Oleate, Polyglyceryl-3 Oleate, Polyglyceryl-4 Oleate, Polyglyceryl-5 Oleate, Polyglyceryl-6 Oleate, Polyglyceryl-8 Oleate, Polyglyceryl-10 Oleate, Poly- glyceryl-4 Pentaoleate, Polyglyceryl-10 Pentaoleate, Polyglyceryl-6 Te- traoleate, Polyglyceryl-10 Tetraoleate, Polyglyceryl-10 Trioleate, preferably Polyglyceryl-2 Dioleate, Polyglyceryl-3 Dioleate, or Poly- glyceryl-6 Dioleate, or Polyglyceryl-10 Dioleate, preferably still Po- Lyglyceryl-10 Dioleate; and their mixtures. Depending on the preferred method, an emulsifying system will be used comprising: an ester of polyglycerol and (poly)ricinoleic acid selected from the group consisting of Polyglyceryl-3 Polyricinoleate or Polyglyceryl-6 Polyricinoleate, preferably Polyglyceryl-6 Polyricinoleate; and an ester of polyglycerol and (di)oleic acid selected from the group consisting of Polyglyceryl-2 Dioleate, Polyglyceryl-3 Dioleate, Polyglyceryl-6 Dioleate, or Polyglyceryl-10 Dioleate, preferably Polyglyceryl-10 Dioleate, preferably the combination Polyglyceryl-6 polyricinoleate and Polyglyceryl-10 (dijoleate. Examples of commercial products with the INCI name Polyglyceryl-3 Polyricinoleate include Soldoc PGPR, Hydriol® PGR, Evicare® PGPR, CithrolTM PG3PR, Akoline PGPRTM, dermofeel® PGPR, and VERCAREM P3P. The combination of Polyglyceryl-6 polyricinoleate and Polyglyceryl-10 (di)oleate is notably present in the product with INCI name: POLYGLYCERYL-6 POLYRI- CINOLEATE (and) POLYGLYCERYL-10 DIOLEATE, marketed under the name GRANSURF by the company Grant Industries. Alternatively, the product with the INCI name POLYGLYCERYL-6 POLYRICINOLEATE, such as that marketed under the respective names SY-GLYSTER, PELEMOL® 6GPR, S$ Face CR-1001, NIKKOL Hexaglyn PR-15, or SUNSOFT No.818SK-C(MB) associated with the product with INCI name: POLYGLYCERYL-10 DIOLEATE such as that marketed under the respective names SALACOS PG 218, SUNSOFT Q-172Y-(G)C(MB), SUNSOFT Q-172Y-(G)C(MB) or PGLOL 210KC. According to a particular method, the composition may further comprise a third ester of polyglycerol and fatty acids, distinct from the other two, in particular in C12-C20 and non-polyhydroxylated, preferably in C18 and non-polyhydroxylated, preferably selected from the group consisting of esters of polyglycerols and (iso)stearic acid. This third ester of polyglycerol and fatty acids improves the stability of the emulsion without degrading the non-transfer and mattifying properties, nor the feeling upon application to the skin. Examples include the following compounds: Polyglyceryl-2 Diisostearate, Polyglyceryl-3 Diisostearate, Polyglyceryl-10 Dii- sostearate, Polyglyceryl-2 Distearate, Polyglyceryl-3 Distearate, Polyglyceryl-6 Distearate, Polyglyceryl-10 Distearate, Polyglyceryl-10 Heptastearate, Polyglyceryl-2 Isostearate, Polyglyceryl-4 Isostearate, Polyglyceryl-5 Isostearate, Polyglyceryl-6 Isostearate, Polyglyceryl-10 Isostearate, Polyglyceryl-4 Pentastearate, Polyglycery1-6 Pentastearate, Polyglyceryl-10 Pentastearate, Polyglyceryl-2 Sesquiisostearate, Poly- glyceryl-2 Sesquistearate, Polyglyceryl-3 Stearate, Polyglyceryl-2 Stearate, Poly- glyceryl-4 Stearate, Polyglyceryl-8 Stearate, Polyglyceryl-10 Stearate, Polyglyceryl-2 Tetraisostearate, Polyglyceryl-2 Tetrastearate, Polyglyceryl-2 Triisostearate, Poly- glyceryl-3 Triisostearate, Polyglyceryl-4 Tristearate, Polyglyceryl Tristearate, et Poly- glyceryl-10 Tristearate, de préférence le Polyglyceryl-2 Isostearate, Polyglyceryl-4 Isostearate, Polyglyceryl-5 Isostearate,Polyglyceryl-6 Isostearate, Polyglyceryl-10 Isostearate, more preferably Polyglyceryl-2 Isostearate. , Thus, according to a particular and preferred method, the composition shall further comprise a third polyglycerol and fatty acid ester, distinct from the other two, in particular C12-C20 and non-polyhydroxylated, preferably C18 and non-polyhydroxylated, in particular selected from the group consisting of polyglycerol and (iso)stearic acid esters, preferably Polyglyceryl-2 Isostearate, Polyglyceryl-4 Isostearate, Polyglyceryl-5 Isostearate, Polyglyceryl-6 Isostearate, or Polyglyceryl-10 Isostearate, preferably Polyglyceryl-2 Isostearate. Examples of commercial products with the INCI name POLYGLYCERYL-2 ISOSTEARATE include products marketed under the respective names: S Face IS-201P, COSMOL 41 V, Dermol DGMIS, Risorex PGIS21, PGLIS 102KC, CithrolTM PG21IS or Risorex PGIS22. Thus, according to a particular and preferred mode, the composition of the invention comprises at least one polyglyceryl polyricinoleate, one polyglyceryl dioleate and advantageously in addition one polyglyceryl isostearate, preferably chosen from the lists described above and in particular one Polyglyceryl-6 Polyricinoleate, one Polyglyceryl-10 Dioleate, and advantageously in addition one Polyglyceryl-2 Isostearate. According to a particular mode, the polyglycerol and fatty acid esters, distinct, preferably C12-C20 and non-(poly)hydroxylated, preferably still C18 and non-(poly)hydroxylated, shall be present in the composition of the invention in a total content of 1 to 10% by weight, in particular 2 to 6% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. In particular, the total content of polyglycerol esters and fatty acids selected from (di)oleic acid and (poly)ricinoleic acid will generally range from 1 to 8% by weight, in particular from 2 to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. The total content of polyglycerol esters and (iso)stearic acids will generally range from 0.5 to 3% by weight, in particular from 0.8 to 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Thus, according to a particular method, the composition of the invention comprises: A copolymer of sebacic acid and hydrogenated castor oil, particularly in a content ranging from 0.5 to 7% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, and At least two distinct polyglycerol and fatty acid esters, in C12-C20 non-(poly)hydroxylated, preferably in C18 non-(poly)hydroxylated, preferably one polyglycerol and (poly)ricinoleic acid ester and one polyglycerol and (di)oleic acid ester, in particular in a total content of 2 to 6% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. According to a particular and preferred method, the composition of the invention comprises: a) a copolymer of sebacic acid and hydrogenated castor oil, in particular in a content ranging from 0.5 to 7% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, and b) three distinct C12-C20 non-(poly)hydroxylated polyglycerol and fatty acid esters, preferably C18 non-(poly)hydroxylated, preferably one polyglycerol and (poly)ricinoleic acid ester, one polyglycerol and (di)oleic acid ester and one polyglycerol and (iso)stearic acid ester, in particular in a total content of 2 to 6% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Thus, according to a particular and preferred method, the composition of the invention comprises: a) a copolymer of sebacic acid and hydrogenated castor oil, in particular in a content ranging from 0.5 to 7% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, and b) a Polyglyceryl-6 polyricinoleate, a Polyglyceryl-10 dioleate, and advantageously in addition a Polyglyceryl-2 isostearate, in particular in a total content of 2 to 6% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Aqueous phase The aqueous phase of the composition according to the invention generally represents from 40 to 85% by weight, in particular from 50 to 70% by weight, relative to the total weight of said composition. The aqueous phase includes water and possibly a water-soluble solvent. The water content will generally range from 40 to 80% by weight, specifically from 50 to 65% by weight, relative to the total weight of said composition. The term 'water-soluble solvent' according to the invention means a compound that is liquid at room temperature and miscible with water (miscibility in water greater than 50% by weight at 25°C and atmospheric pressure). Examples include: - lower C1-CS monoalcohols such as ethanol, isopropanol and their mixtures, preferably ethanol; - C2-C8 glycols such as ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, 1,3-butylene glycol, pentylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, and mixtures thereof, preferably C3-C5 glycols; - C2-C32 polyols such as glycerol, polyglycerols, polyethylene glycols, and mixtures thereof, and their mixtures. It may also include hydrophilic gelling agents, antioxidants, preservatives and mixtures thereof. Thus, a cosmetic composition according to the invention further comprises at least one water-soluble solvent selected from lower C1-CS monoalcohols, C2-C8 glycols preferably in C3-CS, C2-C32 polyols, and mixtures thereof, preferably in a total content of 5 to 25% by weight, in particular 8 to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of said composition. In a particular and preferred embodiment, the composition of the invention will advantageously further comprise at least polyols and / or glycols in a total content of 3 to 12% by weight, in particular 5 to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, for a moisturizing effect promoting a radiant complexion (a 'glow' or luminous effect) without an oily residue. Preferably, the composition comprises at least one or more C3-CS5 glycols, preferably in a total content of 3 to 8% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Oily phase The composition of the invention comprises at least one continuous oily phase. The term "oily phase" refers to an oil or a mixture of oils that are miscible with each other. By "oil" we mean a fatty substance, insoluble in water, liquid at 25°C and atmospheric pressure. An oily phase according to the invention comprises one or more hydrocarbon oils. These oils can be volatile or non-volatile, vegetable, mineral or synthetic. Preferably, oils of natural origin will be used in the context of the invention. In a particular manner and as previously indicated, the oil phase shall comprise less than 5% by total weight of fats, in particular less than 2% by total weight of waxes and paste-like compounds, or even be devoid of waxes and paste-like compounds. In a particular and preferred manner, the composition shall comprise one or more linear or branched C8-C19 alkanes, in particular: - C8-C16 isoalkanes (also called isoparaffins) such as isododecane, isodecane, isohexadecane, and for example oils sold under the commercial names ISOPAR® or PERMETYL®, - linear alkanes having hydrocarbon chains in: - C9-C17, C10-C14, C11-C13 such as a mixture of undecane and tridecane, marketed by BASF Care Creations under the name Cetiol® Ultimate, - C9-C12, C12-C14, such as those marketed by BIOSYNTHIS under the name VEGELIGHT® SILK (INCI name C9-12 ALKANE), VEGELIGHT® 1214LC, - n-dodecane (C12) and n-tetradecane (C14), notably sold by Sasol under the references PARAFOL® 12-97 and PARAFOL® 14-97 respectively, and - C15-C19, such as those marketed by Seppic under the name EMOGREEN® L15, and their mixtures. According to a particular and preferred mode, the composition of the invention shall comprise one or more linear alkanes in the C9-C14 range, preferably C9-C12, and one or more linear alkanes in the C15-C19 range. The total content of C8-C19 alkanes will generally range from 5 to 40% by weight, particularly from 10 to 30%, and preferably from 10 to 20%, relative to the total weight of the composition. Preferably, the content of C9-C14 alkanes, preferably C9-C12, will range from 10% to 20%, and the content of C9-C15 alkanes will range from 0.5% to 10%, preferably from 0.5 to 5%, by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Indeed, to maintain and / or improve the desired non-transfer properties, the total content of linear C9-C14 alkanes, preferably C9-C12, will generally be higher than the total content of linear C15-C19 alkanes, as C9-C14 alkanes are more volatile than C15-C19 alkanes. In particular, the total content of linear C9-C14 alkanes, preferably C9-C12, will be 5 to 15 times higher. to the total content of linear C15-C19 alkanes. Thus, according to a particular mode, the composition of the invention further comprises one or more C8-C19 alkanes, in particular in a content ranging from 10 to 30% by weight relative to the total weight of said composition, with a content of C9-C14 alkanes, preferably C9-C12, ranging preferably from 10% to 20% by weight and a content of C15-C19 alkanes ranging preferably from 0.5% to 10%, preferably 0.5 to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. According to a particular and preferred embodiment, the composition of the invention comprises: a. A copolymer of sebacic acid and hydrogenated castor oil, in part- particularly in a content ranging from 0.5 to 7% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, b. At least two distinct C12-C20 polyglycerol-fatty acid esters non-(poly)hydroxylated, preferably C18 non-(poly)hydroxylated, of preferably a polyglycerol and (poly)ricinoleic acid ester and an ester of polyglycerol and (di)oleic acid, in particular in a total content ranging from 2 to 6% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, and one or more linear C8-C19 alkanes, in particular in a content total of 10 to 30% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, in in particular one or more C9-C14 alkanes, preferably C9-C12, in a a content preferably ranging from 10 to 20% by weight and advantageously in in addition to one or more C15-C19 alkanes in a content preferably ranging typically from 0.5 to 10%, preferably even from 0.5 to 5% by weight per relative to the total weight of the composition. According to another particular and preferred embodiment, the composition of the invention comprises: a. A copolymer of sebacic acid and hydrogenated castor oil, in part- particularly in a content ranging from 0.5 to 7% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, b. At least three distinct C12-C20 polyglycerol and fatty acid esters non-(poly)hydroxylated, preferably C18 non-(poly)hydroxylated, of preferably an ester of polyglycerol and (poly)ricinoleic acid, an ester of polyglycerol and (di)oleic acid and an ester of polyglycerol and acid (Iso)stearic, in particular in a total content ranging from 2 to 6% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, and c. One or more linear C8-C19 alkanes, in particular in a content total of 10 to 30% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, in in particular one or more C9-C14 alkanes, preferably C9-C12, in a a content preferably ranging from 10 to 20% by weight and advantageously in in addition to one or more C15-C19 alkanes in a content preferably ranging typically from 0.5 to 10%, preferably still 0.5 to 5% by weight compared to the total weight of the composition. According to a particular method, the composition of the invention will further comprise pigments and possibly fillers, preferably treated with a lipophilic treatment agent. Pigments The composition of the invention will generally also include one or more pigments. According to a preferred method, the pigments are treated on the surface by at least one hydrophobic treatment agent (this can be referred to interchangeably as "lipophilic treatment"). By "pigments" we mean white or colored particles, mineral or organic, insoluble in an aqueous solution, intended to color and / or opacify the resulting deposit. In a particular manner, the pigment(s) are chosen in particular from mineral and / or organic pigments, composite pigments (based on mineral and / or organic materials), mother-of-pearl or pearlescent pigments, and their mixtures. Examples of "mineral pigments" include titanium dioxide (rutile or anatase), possibly surface-treated; black, yellow, red and brown iron oxides; manganese violet; ultramarine blue; chromium oxide; hydrated chromium oxide; and ferric blue. Among the "organic pigments", we can cite, for example, the pigments D & C red no. 19; D & C red no. 9; D & C Red no. 22; D & C Red no. 21; D & C Red no. 28; D & C Yellow no. 6; D & C orange no. 4; D & Corange no. 5; D & C Red no. 27, D&C red no. 13; D & C Red no. 7; D & C Red no. 6; D & C Yellow no. 5; D & C Red no. 36; D & C Red no. 33; D & C orange no. 10; D & C yellow no. 6; D & C Red no. 30; D & C red no. 3; D & C Blue 1; carbon black and carmine-based co-chenienne lacquers. According to a particular mode, the composition of the invention comprises at least iron oxides. Advantageously, the pigments are surface-treated with at least one hydrophobic or lipophilic treatment agent for better dispersion in the oil phase. The hydrophobic treatment agent is notably chosen from the group consisting of metallic soaps, N-acylated amino acids or their salts; lecithin and its derivatives; isopropyl trisostearyl titanate; diisostearyl sebacate; natural vegetable or animal waxes, polar synthetic waxes; fatty esters; phospholipids, and their mixtures, in particular N-acylated amino acids or their salts. In particular, the pigment(s) are present in the composition in a certain concentration ranging from 4% to 35% by weight, preferably from 8% to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Charges According to a particular method, the composition of the invention further comprises one or more charges. Preferably, the filler(s) are treated with a lipophilic agent such as those described for the pigments above. The term "fillers" refers to particles of any shape, colorless or white, mineral or synthetic, that are insoluble in the composition medium. These fillers are used, in particular, to modify the rheology or texture of the composition and / or to provide a mattifying effect. The fillers can be mineral or organic and of any shape: platelet, spherical, or oblong. Thus, for a mattifying makeup result, the composition may include one or more fillers in a total content ranging from 1 to 10% by weight, in particular from 2 to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. For a brighter makeup result ('glow' effect), little or no mattifying fillers will be used in the composition of the invention. Thus, the load(s) according to the invention are chosen in particular from: cellulose powders, microcrystalline cellulose, lauroyl lysine, Saccharomyces Ferment boron nitride powders, silica powders, starch powders, calcium carbonate, clays, synthetic Fluorphlogopite powders, and their mixtures. Examples include the composite powder based on Saccharomyces Ferment and Lauroyl lysine such as that marketed under the name GRANDPOWDER® by Grant Industries, and the cellulose powder such as that marketed under the name CELLULOBEADS® by DAITO KASEI, or the modified corn starch powder marketed under the name MICROMATRIX DRY SPHERE by CCW-SARL or the magnesium stearate treated microcrystalline cellulose powder marketed under the name S-STM MAKIGREEN MC by Daito Kasei. According to a particular method, the charge(s) according to the invention are chosen from the group consisting of cellulose powders, Saccharomyces Ferment, lauroyl lysine, and mixtures thereof. The total filler content according to the invention shall range in particular from 1 to 10% by weight, preferably from 2 to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of said composition. Pharmaceutical Formulation The composition is preferentially intended to be applied to the skin, in particular the skin of the face and / or neck and is presented in the form of a water-in-oil (W / O) emulsion. In a specific form, the composition is in the form of a facial fluid, foundation, primer, finisher, or concealer. Preferably, it is a facial makeup composition, particularly a foundation. In one mode, it will be a mattifying foundation (also called “mat’). In another way, it will be a luminous foundation (also known as “glow”). Thus, according to a particular embodiment of the invention, the composition comprises: a. A copolymer of sebacic acid and hydrogenated castor oil, in part- particularly in a content ranging from 0.5 to 7% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, b. An emulsifying system comprising at least two polyglycerol esters and of distinct fatty acids, particularly C12-C20 and non-(poly)hydroxylated, of preferably C18 and non-(poly)hydroxylated, preferably a poly- ester glycerol and (poly)ricinoleic acid and a polyglycerol and acid ester (di)oleic, in particular in a total content ranging from 2 to 6% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, and advantageously in addition a third ester of polyglycerol and fatty acids, particularly C12-C20 and non-(poly)hydroxylated, preferably C18 and non-(poly)hydroxylated, of preferably an ester of polyglycerol and (iso)stearic acid, particularly in a content ranging from 0.8 to 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the com- position, c. One or more linear C8-C19 alkanes, in particular in a content total of 10 to 30% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, in in particular one or more C9-C14 alkanes, preferably C9-C12, in a a content preferably ranging from 10 to 20% by weight and advantageously in in addition to one or more C15-C19 alkanes in a content preferably ranging typically from 0.5 to 10%, preferably even from 0.5 to 5% by weight per relative to the total weight of the composition, d. Mineral pigments, in particular iron oxides, preferably treated on the surface by a lipophilic agent, in particular in a concentration ranging from 8 to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, and fillers, in particular cellulose particles, of Saccharomyces Ferment and / or lauroyl lysine, particularly in a content ranging from 2 to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. The composition of the invention may also include any additive commonly used in cosmetics such as antioxidants, gelling agents, preservatives, perfumes, cosmetic active agents, such as emollients, moisturizers, vitamins, anti-aging agents, brightening agents, and mixtures thereof. According to a particular mode, the composition of the invention comprises at least one lipophilic gelling agent. As lipophilic gelling agents, we can mention in particular mineral gelling agents such as bentones, preferably a quaternary hectorite. COSMETIC PROCESS The invention also relates to a cosmetic method of skin makeup, preferably for the skin of the face and / or neck, comprising the application to the skin of at least one layer of a cosmetic composition as defined previously in the invention. In particular, the cosmetic process according to the invention allows the deposition on the skin of a thin film like a second skin, with a matte or luminous finish, comfortable and very soft, with good hold, without transfer. According to a first embodiment, for a matte and transfer-proof makeup result, a foundation composition comprising: a. A copolymer of sebacic acid and hydrogenated castor oil, in part- particularly in a content ranging from 0.5 to 7% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, b. At least two distinct C12-C20 polyglycerol-fatty acid esters non-(poly)hydroxylated, preferably C18 non-(poly)hydroxylated, of preferably a polyglycerol and (poly)ricinoleic acid ester and an ester of polyglycerol and (di)oleic acid, in particular in a total content ranging from 2 to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, and Fos One or more linear C8-C19 alkanes, in particular in a content total of 10 to 30% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, in in particular one or more C9-C14 alkanes, preferably C9-C12, in a a content preferably ranging from 10 to 20% by weight and advantageously in in addition to one or more C15-C19 alkanes in a content preferably ranging typically from 0.5 to 10%, preferably even from 0.5 to 5% by weight per relative to the total weight of the composition, d. Mineral pigments, in particular iron oxides, preferably treated on the surface by a lipophilic agent, in particular in a concentration ranging from 8 to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, and fillers, in particular cellulose particles, of Saccharomyces ferment and / or lauroyl lysine, particularly in a content ranging from 2 to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. According to another particular and preferred method, for a matte and transfer-proof makeup result, a foundation composition will be used, including: a. A copolymer of sebacic acid and hydrogenated castor oil, in part- particularly in a content ranging from 0.5 to 7% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, b. At least three distinct C12-C20 polyglycerol and fatty acid esters non-(poly)hydroxylated, preferably C18 non-(poly)hydroxylated, of preferably an ester of polyglycerol and (poly)ricinoleic acid, an ester of polyglycerol and (di)oleic acid and an ester of polyglycerol and acid (Iso)stearic, in particular in a total content ranging from 2 to 6% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, and c. One or more linear C8-C19 alkanes, in particular in a content total of 10 to 30% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, in in particular one or more C9-C14 alkanes, preferably C9-C12, in a a content preferably ranging from 10 to 20% by weight and advantageously in in addition to one or more C15-C19 alkanes in a content preferably ranging typically from 0.5 to 10%, preferably even from 0.5 to 5% by weight per relative to the total weight of the composition, d. Mineral pigments, in particular iron oxides, preferably treated on the surface by a lipophilic agent, in particular in a concentration ranging from 8 to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, and fillers, in particular cellulose particles, of Saccharomyces ferment and / or lauroyl lysine, particularly in a content ranging from 2 to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. According to another embodiment, for a luminous and transfer-proof makeup result, a luminous complexion composition comprising: a. A copolymer of sebacic acid and hydrogenated castor oil, in part- particularly in a content ranging from 0.5 to 7% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, b. At least two distinct C12-C20 polyglycerol-fatty acid esters non-(poly)hydroxylated, preferably C18 non-(poly)hydroxylated, of preferably a polyglycerol and (poly)ricinoleic acid ester and an ester of polyglycerol and (di)oleic acid, in particular in a total content ranging from 2 to 6% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, and one or more linear C8-C19 alkanes, in particular in a content total of 10 to 30% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, in in particular one or more C9-C14 alkanes, preferably C9-C12, in a a content preferably ranging from 10 to 20% by weight and advantageously in in addition to one or more C15-C19 alkanes in a content preferably ranging typically from 0.5 to 10%, preferably even from 0.5 to 5% by weight per relative to the total weight of the composition, and d. Mineral pigments, in particular iron oxides, preferably treated on the surface by a lipophilic agent, in particular in a concentration ranging from 8 to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. According to another particular and preferred method, for a luminous and transfer-proof makeup result, a foundation composition will be used, including: a. A copolymer of sebacic acid and hydrogenated castor oil, in part- particularly in a content ranging from 0.5 to 7% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, b. At least three distinct C12-C20 polyglycerol and fatty acid esters non-(poly)hydroxylated, preferably C18 non-(poly)hydroxylated, of preferably an ester of polyglycerol and (poly)ricinoleic acid, an ester of polyglycerol and (di)oleic acid and an ester of polyglycerol and acid (Iso)stearic, in particular in a total content ranging from 2 to 6% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, and c. One or more linear C8-C19 alkanes, in particular in a content total of 10 to 30% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, in in particular one or more C9-C14 alkanes, preferably C9-C12, in a a content preferably ranging from 10 to 20% by weight and advantageously in in addition to one or more C15-C19 alkanes in a content preferably ranging typically from 0.5 to 10%, preferably even from 0.5 to 5% by weight per relative to the total weight of the composition, and d. Mineral pigments, in particular iron oxides, preferably treated on the surface by a lipophilic agent, in particular in a concentration ranging from 8 to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. The invention will be illustrated in the following non-limiting examples. Unless otherwise indicated, percentages are expressed as a percentage by weight relative to the total weight of said composition. EXAMPLES Example 1: Selection of the association according to the invention Several polymers and combinations were tested and evaluated for their stability and gloss and non-transfer properties. Examples and results are presented in the following table: [Table 1] % in % in % by weight weight weight Invention [Comparative Invention | with (with without tapioca starch [other tapioca starch | polymer) | tapioca starch IL / 1.0 |- [Lo | jo 1 25 |25 |- [112 [112 [112 1.5 1.5 2.5 25 1.0 1.0 32 |2 = [2 0.8 0.8 0.2 0.2 13.0 13.0 8 8 po |as AQUA (purified water) Qsp 100 |Qsp100 |Qsp 100 +++ +++ +++ [EVALUATIONS [Stability [Stable [Stable —|Stable Non-transfer Jr [+ [+++ Dullness +++ +++ +++ Preparation protocol The compositions of the invention are prepared according to the following protocol: The pigments, some of the oils, and the pigment dispersant are mixed and passed through a three-roll mill at room temperature to obtain a pigment paste; Separately, an oil phase was prepared with the hot lipophilic polymer (CRODABOND according to the invention or COSMEDIA DC for the comparator); this oil phase is then cooled before incorporation; The aqueous phase is prepared by mixing water, glycols, and starch. tapioca and additives at room temperature of 85°C until homogenized neization; this aqueous phase is then cooled before incorporation; The oil phase is prepared at room temperature: the remaining part of the oils, and surfactants are homogenized under agitation (strong ci- protrusion); then the pigment paste prepared above is added, and the whole is homogenized under high shear; finally the oil phase is added with the lipophilic polymer and everything is homogenized; The aqueous phase is then gradually poured into the oily phase. gradually increasing the agitation to emulsify the two phases room temperature, and the mixture is left under stirring for about fifteen minutes minutes ; Charges can either be added beforehand during their affinity phase (lipophilic in this case) before emulsification or after emulsification under strong Stir, and let the mixture homogenize for 10-15 minutes. Evaluation protocols The compositions thus obtained are evaluated according to different criteria, the protocols of which are specified below: Stability of the composition over time and at different temperatures, Non-transfer of the foundation film as measured by a texture meter. Foundation film matte finish (Shine measurement at 60° with the (Brightness meter), And if applicable, foundation coverage (Color measurement using a spectrocolorimeter). The amount of foundation applied is calibrated. Evaluation of the stability of the composition The stability of the composition is evaluated in ovens under the following conditions: 3 months at room temperature (TA); 2 weeks alternating (12-hour cycles between -10°C and +40°C) 1 month at 50°C 3 months at 45°C, and 6 months at 4°C. A composition is said to be stable if it is stable under all the conditions described above. Evaluation of non-transfer The foundation is applied to a surface and, after drying in an oven (1 hour at 40°C), the film's non-transfer properties are evaluated using a texture tester equipped with a cotton swab. The amount of soiling on the cotton is then compared to a white reference swab. The amount of foundation applied is calibrated. The following notations are assigned: +++: does not transfer ++: very slight transfer +: slight transfer -* transfer Assessment of dullness The matte / glossy nature of the composition is evaluated using a glossmeter, which measures the reflective gloss of a surface. This parameter is determined by projecting a beam of light at a fixed intensity and angle onto a surface and measuring the amount of light reflected at an equal but opposite angle (60°). The composition is spread (30µm) on a LENETA contrast card and then placed in an oven at 25°C and 40% humidity for 24 hours. Four measurements are taken (two on a black card, two on a white card), and the values ​​are recorded with standard deviations. The results are analyzed against comparative values ​​using the following reference system: < 5 = matte; > 30 = glow; > 60 = glossy. The following notations are assigned with reference to dullness: +++: very bad ++ :mat +: medium matte - : slightly shiny (which can also be described as luminous or "glow") -- * bright --- * very bright Coverage The coverage of certain compositions was also evaluated (example 1.2 below). The coverage of the foundation applied to the skin is assessed by an expert. The coverage of imperfections in the texture of the foundation film applied to the facial skin can be evaluated immediately after application (TO and T6h). The following notations are assigned with reference to coverage: +++: very covering ++: moderate coverage +: poor coverage -: not covering The evaluation results shown in Table 1 demonstrate that the use of a copolymer of sebacic acid and hydrogenated castor oil, in combination with an emulsifying system comprising at least two distinct C12-C20 non-(poly)hydroxylated polyglycerol and fatty acid esters, provides good composition stability, transfer resistance, and a matte finish, compared to another film-forming polymer. The tapioca starch-free formula exhibits improved sensory qualities compared to the other composition according to the invention.

Claims

Claims

1. Cosmetic composition in the form of a water-in-oil emulsion comprising, in a physiologically acceptable environment: (a) a copolymer of sebacic acid and hydrogenated castor oil, And (b) an emulsifying system comprising at least two poly- esters glycerol and fatty acid, distinct, preferably C12-C20 and not (poly)hydroxylated, more preferably C18 and not (poly)hydroxylated.

2. Composition according to claim 1, characterized in that it comprises less than 5% by total weight of fat, in particular less than 2% by total weight of waxes and pasty compounds, or even is free from waxes and pasty compounds.

3. Cosmetic composition according to claim 1 or claim 2, characterized in that the emulsifying system comprises: (i) at least one ester of polyglycerol and (poly)ricinoleic acid notably chosen from the group consisting of: Polyglyceryl-3 Pentaricinoleate, Polyglyceryl-6 Pentaricinoleate, Polyglyceryl-10 Pentaricinoleate, Polyglyceryl-3 Polyricinoleate, Polyglyceryl-6 Polyri- cinoleate, Polyglyceryl-3 Ricinoleate, preferably Polyglyceryl-3 Polyricinoleate or Polyglyceryl-6 Polyricinoleate, preferably still Polyglyceryl-6 Polyricinoleate; and (ii) at least one ester of polyglycerol and (di)oleic acid, in particular chosen from the group consisting of: Polyglyceryl-10 Decalinoleate, Polyglyceryl-10 Decaoleate, Polyglyceryl-2 Dioleate, Polyglyceryl-3 Dioleate, Polyglyceryl-6 Dioleate, Polyglyceryl-10 Dioleate, Poly- glyceryl-10 Heptaoleate, Polyglyceryl-6 Hexaoleate, Polyglyceryl-10 Hexaoleate, Polyglyceryl-2 Oleate, Polyglyceryl-3 Oleate, Polyglyceryl- 4 Oleate, Polyglyceryl-5 Oleate, Polyglyceryl-6 Oleate, Polyglyceryl-8 Oleate, Polyglyceryl-10 Oleate, Polyglyceryl-4 Pentaoleate, Poly- glyceryl-10 Pentaoleate, Polyglyceryl-6 Tetraoleate, Polyglyceryl-10 Tetraoleate, Polyglyceryl-10 Trioleate, preferably Polyglyceryl-2 Dioleate, Polyglyceryl-3 Dioleate, or Polyglyceryl-6 Dioleate, or Po- lyglyceryl-10 Dioleate, more preferably Polyglyceryl-10 Dioleate; and their mixtures.

4. Composition according to claim 3 characterized in that the system emulsifier includes (i) an ester of polyglycerol and (poly)ricinoleic acid selected from the group consisting of Polyglyceryl-3 Polyricinoleate or Poly- glyceryl-6 Polyricinoleate, preferably Polyglyceryl-6 Polyri- cinoleate: and (ii) a polyglycerol ester of (di)oleic acid selected from the group consisting of Polyglyceryl-2 Dioleate, Polyglyceryl-3 Dioleate, Poly- glyceryl-6 Dioleate, or Polyglyceryl-10 Dioleate, more preferably Polyglyceryl-10 Dioleate, preferably the combination Polyglyceryl-6 polyricinoleate and Poly- glyceryl-10 (di)oleate.

5. Composition according to claim 3 or claim 4, characterized in that it further comprises a third polyglycerol ester and fatty acid, distinct from the other two, in particular C12-C20 and not polyhydroxylated, preferably C18 and non-polyhydroxylated, of preferably chosen from the group consisting of polyglycerol esters and (iso)stearic acid, preferably Polyglyceryl-2 Isostearate, Polyglyceryl-4 Isostearate, Polyglyceryl-5 Isostearate, Poly- Glyceryl-6 Isostearate, or Polyglyceryl-10 Isostearate, preferably still Polyglyceryl-2 isostearate.

6. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 5, ca- characterized in that the content of sebacic acid copolymer and of hydrogenated castor oil ranges from 0.1 to 10% by weight, in particular 0.5 to 7%, preferably 1 to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of said composition.

7. A composition according to any one of claims | to 6, ca- characterized in that the total content of polyglycerol esters and acid fatty, preferably C12-C20 and not (poly)hydroxylated, preferably still in C18 and not (poly)hydroxylated, ranges from 1 to 10%, in particular 2 to 6% by weight relative to the total weight of said composition.

8. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 7, ca- characterized in that it further comprises one or more alkanes in C8-C19, in particular in a content ranging from 10 to 30% by weight per relative to the total weight of said composition, with an alkane content in C9-C14, preferably C9-C12, preferably ranging from 10% to 20% by weight and a C15-C19 alkane content preferably ranging from preferably from 0.5% to 10%, more preferably from 0.5 to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

9. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 8, ca- characterized in that it further comprises pigments and even- actually loads, preferably treated by a treatment agent lipophilic.

10. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 9, ca- characterized in that it is a facial fluid, a foundation, a foundation base, a finisher or a concealer.

11. | Cosmetic process for making up the skin, preferably the skin of the face and / or neck, comprising the application to said skin of at least at least one layer of a cosmetic composition as defined in any one of claims 1 to 10.