Stable, transfer-proof emulsion foundation

A water-in-oil emulsion using Candelilla resin and pullulan with polyglycerol esters addresses the need for long-lasting, transfer-resistant makeup with natural ingredients, ensuring a comfortable, non-transferring finish.

FR3144004B1Active Publication Date: 2026-06-05LVMH RECH

Patent Information

Authority / Receiving Office
FR · FR
Patent Type
Patents
Current Assignee / Owner
LVMH RECH
Filing Date
2022-12-21
Publication Date
2026-06-05

AI Technical Summary

Technical Problem

Existing makeup compositions using film-forming polymers for long-lasting wear often require touch-ups and transfer onto fabrics, and there is a need for compositions with natural ingredients that maintain sensory and hold properties.

Method used

A cosmetic composition in the form of a water-in-oil emulsion using a film-forming system of Candelilla resin and pullulan, combined with an emulsifying system of polyglycerol and fatty acid esters, providing a long-lasting, transfer-resistant effect with good sensory properties.

Benefits of technology

The composition achieves a thin, second-skin-like film with a matte or luminous finish that remains intact without transferring onto fabrics, while maintaining comfort and glide.

✦ Generated by Eureka AI based on patent content.
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Abstract

The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition in the form of a water-in-oil emulsion comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium: a) a Candelilla resin, b) a pullulan, etc.) an emulsifying system comprising one or more distinct polyglycerol and fatty acid esters, optionally (poly)hydroxylated.
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Description

Title of the invention: Stable and non-transfer emulsion foundation FIELD OF INVENTION

[0001] The present invention relates to the cosmetic field and in particular to compositions in the form of water-in-oil emulsions, especially for skin makeup, with a long-lasting, transfer-free effect. STATE OF THE ART

[0002] The prior art of skin compositions employing film-forming polymers for a long-lasting makeup effect on the skin is known.

[0003] "Wearability" refers to makeup that is still present and satisfactory at the end of the day. Good wear, for example, means a foundation that does not require touch-ups during the day. Furthermore, makeup compositions with "non-transfer" wear properties are sought, meaning that the composition, and in particular the color, does not transfer onto fabrics that come into contact with the makeup film applied to the skin (e.g., tissues, masks, clothing, etc.).

[0004] We are currently looking for compositions comprising more ingredients of natural origin, but without compromising on the sensory and hold properties of the makeup.

[0005] By “naturally sourced ingredients” we mean ingredients derived from nature but which have been physically transformed or have been extracted or chemically treated.

[0006] The Applicant has shown that the combined use of a film-forming system of natural origin comprising a Candelilla resin and a pullulan, and an emulsifying system comprising one or more polyglycerol and fatty acid esters, makes it possible to obtain a tinted product with a long-lasting, transfer-resistant effect and good sensory properties upon application. In particular, the composition according to the invention is a water-in-oil emulsion providing good glide upon application, depositing a thin, second-skin-like film with a matte or luminous, comfortable, and very soft finish. Description of the invention

[0007] To this end, according to a first aspect of the invention, a cosmetic composition in the form of a water-in-oil emulsion is proposed, comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium: a) Candelilla resin, b) a pullulan, and c) an emulsifying system comprising one or more distinct polyglycerol and fatty acid esters, optionally (poly)hydroxylated.

[0008] In particular, it is a makeup product for the skin of the face and / or neck.

[0009] Another aspect of the invention is a cosmetic process for applying makeup to keratinous materials, in particular to the skin, preferably the skin of the face and / or neck, comprising applying to said keratinous material at least one layer of a cosmetic composition as defined according to the invention. DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION

[0010] The invention therefore relates to a cosmetic composition in the form of a water-in-oil emulsion comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium: a) a Candelilla resin, b) a pullulan, and c) an emulsifying system comprising one or more distinct polyglycerol and fatty acid esters, possibly (poly)hydroxylated.

[0011] Film-forming system of natural origin (combination of candelilla resin and pullulan)

[0012] The composition of the invention comprises a film-forming system comprising a lipophilic film-forming polymer (candelilla resin) and a hydrophilic film-forming polymer (pullulan).

[0013] Candelilla resin (a lipophilic film-forming polymer of natural origin)

[0014] In the context of the present invention, a candelilla resin (Euphorbia cerifera), distinct from a candelilla wax, is used.

[0015] Resins generally represent 12 to 14% of candelilla wax and are generally composed of polar substances. Resins can be obtained from the wax in extract form. In this description, the terms 'free' candelilla resin and candelilla resin, meaning a resin not trapped within the candelilla wax but obtained from said wax, for example by subjecting candelilla wax to fractional extraction with an organic solvent such as ethanol, will be used interchangeably.

[0016] According to a particular method, a candelilla resin of INCI name Euphorbia Cerifera (Candelilla) Wax Extract (EU INCI Name: Euphorbia Cerifera Cera Extract) is used, in particular the Candelilla resin marketed under the name Candelilla Resin-E1 or preferably Candelilla Resin-E2 from Japan Natural Products, Inc. This resin of natural origin is obtained by an extraction process from Candelilla wax.

[0017] The concentration of Candelilla resin in the present invention will generally range from 0.2 to 3% by weight, in particular from 0.5 to 3%, in particular from 1 to 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0018] The composition of the invention will not comprise, or will comprise very few, waxes. In particular, the composition of the invention comprises less than 5% waxes, in particular less than 2% waxes, or even less than 1% waxes, or is wax-free.

[0019] Pullulan (Hydrophilic film-forming polymer of natural origin)

[0020] The composition of the invention further comprises a pullulan.

[0021] Pullulan is a naturally occurring polysaccharide (a sugar polymer) composed of maltotriose units (a glucose trisaccharide), also known as alpha-1,4-, alpha-1,6-glucan. The three glucose units that make up the maltotriose are linked by alpha-1,4 glycosidic bonds, while the maltotriose units are linked together by alpha-1,6 glycosidic bonds. Pullulan is produced from starch by the fungus Aureobasidium pullulans.

[0022] According to a particular mode, pullulan is present in the composition in a content ranging from 0.2% to 3% by weight, in particular from 1% to 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0023] Emulsifying system (polyglycerol and fatty acid ester(s))

[0024] The composition of the invention further comprises one or more distinct polyglycerol and fatty acid esters, optionally (poly)hydroxylated.

[0025] By 'fatty acid' in the expression esters of polyglycerol and fatty acids, means in particular C6-C30 fatty acids, especially C10-C20.

[0026] Examples include citric acid (C6), capric acid (C10), lauric acid (C12), myristic acid (C14), palmitic acid (C16), stearic or isostearic acid (C18), ricinoleic acid (C18), oleic acid (C18), linoleic acid (C18), and mixtures thereof.

[0027] Comme esters de polyglycérol et d’acide gras utilisés selon l’invention, on peut citer notamment les composés suivants : Polyglyceryl-4 Caprate, Polyglyceryl-2 Caprate, Polyglyceryl-4 Caprylate, Polyglyceryl-6 Caprylate, Polyglyceryl-6 Caprate, Poly-glyceryl-3 Cocoate, Polyglyceryl-4 Cocoate, Polyglyceryl-10 Decalinoleate, Poly-glyceryl-10 Decaoleate, Polyglyceryl-10 Decacasterate, Polyglyceryl-3 Dicaprate, Po-lyglyceryl-3 Dicocoate, Polyglyceryl-10 Didecanoate, Polyglyceryl-2 Diisostearate, Polyglyceryl-3 Diisostearate, Polyglyceryl-10 Diisostearate, Polyglyceryl-4 Dilaurate, Polyglycerin-2 Dioleate, Polyglyceryl-3 Dioleate, Polyglyceryl-6 Dioleate, Poly-glyceryl-10 Dioleate, Polyglyceryl-6 Dipalmitate, Polyglyceryl-10 Dipalmitate, Poly-glyceryl-2 Dipolyhydroxystearate, Polyglyceryl-2 Distearate, Polyglyceryl-3 Distearate, Polyglyceryl-6 Distearate, Polyglyceryl-10 Distearate, Polyglyceryl-10 Heptaoleate, Polyglyceryl-10 Heptastearate, Polyglyceryl-6 Hexaoleate,Polyglyceryl-10 Hexaoleate, Polyglyceryl-2 Isopalmitate, Polyglyceryl-2 Isostearate, Polyglyceryl-4 Isostearate, Polyglyceryl-5 Isostearate, Polyglyceryl-6 Isostearate, Polyglyceryl-10 Isostearate, Polyglyceryl-2 Laurate, Polyglyceryl-3 Laurate, Polyglyceryl-4 Laurate, Polyglyceryl-5 Laurate, Polyglyceryl-6 Laurate, Polyglyceryl-10 Laurate, Poly- , glyceryl-3 Myristate, Polyglyceryl-10 Myristate, Polyglyceryl-2 Oleate, Polyglyceryl-3 Oleate, Polyglyceryl-4 Oleate, Polyglyceryl-5 Oleate, Polyglyceryl-6 Oleate, Poly-glyceryl-8 Oleate, Polyglyceryl-10 dioleate, Polyglyceryl-3 Palmitate, Polyglyceryl-6 Palmitate, Polyglyceryl-10 Pentalaurate, Polyglyceryl-10 Pentalinoleate, Polyglyceryl-4 Pentaoleate, Polyglyceryl-10 Pentaoleate, Polyglyceryl-3 Pentaricinoleate, Poly-glyceryl-6 Pentaricinoleate, Polyglyceryl-10 Pentaricinoleate, Polyglyceryl-4 Pentastearate, Polyglyceryl-6 Pentastearate, Polyglyceryl-10 Pentastearate, Poly-glyceryl-3 Polyrisinoleate, Polyglyceryl-6 Polyricinoleate, Polyglyceryl-3 Ricinoleate, Polyglyceryl-2 Sesquiisostearate, Polyglyceryl-2 Sesquioleate, Polyglyceryl-2 Ses-quistearate, Polyglyceryl-3 Stéarate, Polyglyceryl-2 Stéarate, Polyglyceryl-4 Stéarate, Polyglyceryl-8 Stéarate, Polyglyceryl-10 Stéarate, Polyglyceryl-2 Tetraisostearate, Po-lyglyceryl-6 Tetraoleate, Polyglyceryl-10 Tetraoleate,Polyglyceryl-2 Tetrastearate, Polyglyceryl-2 Triisostearate, Polyglyceryl-3 Triisostearate, Polyglyceryl-10 Trioleate, Polyglyceryl-4 Tristearate, Polyglyceryl Tristearate, Polyglyceryl-10 Tristearate, et leurs mélanges. ,

[0028] According to a particular method, one or more distinct C10-C20 polyglycerol-fatty acid esters, optionally (poly)hydroxylated, selected from the group consisting of Polyglyceryl-2 Dipolyhydroxystearate, Polyglyceryl-2 Isostearate, Polyglyceryl-3 Diisostearate, Polyglyceryl-2 Diisostearate, Polyglyceryl-4 Diisostearate, Polyglyceryl-2 Triisostearate, Polyglyceryl-2 Stearate, Polyglyceryl-3 Polyricinoleate, Polyglyceryl-6 Polyricinoleate, Polyglyceryl-4 Caprate, Polyglyceryl-4 Oleate, Polyglyceryl-10 Dioleate, Polyglyceryl-10 Laurate, and mixtures thereof, preferably selected from the group consisting of Polyglyceryl-2 Dipolyhydroxystearate, Polyglyceryl-2 isostearate, Polyglyceryl-3 Diisostearate, Polyglyceryl-3 Polyricinoleate, Polyglyceryl-6 Polyricinoleate, Polyglyceryl-4 oleate, Polyglyceryl-10 Dioleate, and mixtures thereof.

[0029] Examples of commercial products usable according to the invention include, in particular, products marketed under the following names: - GRANSURF from Grant Industries, named INCI Polyglyceryl-6 Polyricinoleate (and) Polyglyceryl-10 Dioleate, - DEHYMULS® from BASF, INCI name Polyglyceryl-2 Dipolyhydroxystearate, - DUB ISO from Stearinerie Dubois, Hostacerin® TGI, Dermol TGDIS, Dapracare® PG3DI MB, LAMEFORM® TGI, IMWITOR® PG3 DIS or PGLIS 203KC, INCI name Polyglyceryl-3 Diisostearate, Soldoc PGPR, Hydriol® PGR, Evicare® PGPR, Cithrol™ PG3PR, Akoline PGPR™, dermofeel® PGPR, or VERCAREM P3P by INCI name Poly-glyceryl-3 Polyricinoleate, - MAKIBASE SEB, INCI name Polyglyceryl-3 Diisostearate & Polyglyceryl-3 Polyricinoleate, SY-GLYSTER from Sakamoto Yakuhin kogyo, PELEMOL® 6GPR, S Face CR-1001, NIKKOL Hexaglyn PR-15, or SUNSOFT No.818SK-C(MB), INCI name Polyglyceryl-6 Polyricinoleate, - S-FACE from Sakamoto Yakuhin kogyo, COSMOL 41V, Dermol DGMIS, Risorex PGIS21, PGLIS 102KC, Cithrol™ PG21IS, or Risorex PGIS22 by INCI name Polyglyceryl-2 isostearate, - OLIVEM from Aroma Zone, INCI name Polyglyceryl-4 oleate (and) Poly-glyceryl-3 Polyricinoleate, NIKKOMULESE from NIKKOL GROUP (Nikko Chemicals), INCI name Po-lyglyceryl-6 Polyricinoleate (and) Polyglyceryl-2 isostearate, SALACOS PG 218, SUNSOFT Q-172Y-(G)C(MB) or PGLOL 210KCn by INCI name Polyglyceryl-10 Dioleate, and S Face O-401P, Jeechem 100, NIKKOL Tetraglyn 1-OV, Hydriol® PGHO.4, Hydriol® PGO, Hydriol® PGLO.4, Hydriol® PGMO.4, DUROSOFT® PG4-O, or Protachem™ 100, INCI name Polyglyceryl-4 oleate, - and their mixtures.

[0030] According to a particular and preferred mode, the composition of the invention comprises at least one ester of polyglycerol and non-(poly)hydroxylated fatty acids, and optionally in addition an ester of polyglycerol and (poly)hydroxylated fatty acids.

[0031] Thus, according to a particular embodiment, the composition of the invention comprises one or more distinct polyglycerol and fatty acid esters, selected from the group consisting of: - Polyglyceryl-6 Polyricinoleate and Polyglyceryl-10 Dioleate (combination of the two); - Polyglyceryl-2 isostearate; - Polyglyceryl-4 oleate and Polyglyceryl-3 Polyricinoleate (combination of the two); - Polyglyceryl-6 Polyricinoleate and Polyglyceryl-2 isostearate (combination of the two); - Polyglyceryl-6 Polyricinoleate; - Polyglyceryl-3 Diisostearate; - Polyglyceryl-2 Dipolyhydroxy stearate; and their mixtures.

[0032] Among the particular and preferred combinations that can be used in the compositions of the invention, the following may be mentioned: - Polyglyceryl-6 Polyricinoleate, Polyglyceryl-10 Dioleate and Polyglyceryl-2 isostearate; - Polyglyceryl-2 Dipolyhydroxystearate and Polyglyceryl-3 Diisostearate; - Polyglyceryl-6 Polyricinoleate, Polyglyceryl-10 Dioleate and Polyglyceryl-6 Polyricinoleate; And - Polyglyceryl-4 oleate and Polyglyceryl-3 Polyricinoleate;

[0033] preferably one of the following combinations chosen from: - Polyglyceryl-2 Dipolyhydroxystearate and Polyglyceryl-3 Diisostearate; And - Polyglyceryl-6 Polyricinoleate and Polyglyceryl-10 Dioleate and Polyglyceryl-2 isostearate;

[0034] more preferably Polyglyceryl-2 Dipolyhydroxystearate and Polyglyceryl-3 Diisostearate.

[0035] Thus, preferably the composition of the invention comprises at least two polyglycerol and C10-C20 fatty acid esters, optionally (poly)hydroxylated.

[0036] According to a particular and preferred mode, it comprises a polyglycerol and (poly)hydroxylated fatty acid ester and a polyglycerol and non (poly)hydroxylated fatty acid ester, preferably a Polyglyceryl-2 Dipolyhydroxystearate and a Poly-glyceryl-3 Diisostearate.

[0037] The total content of polyglycerol ester(s) and fatty acids in the composition of the invention shall in particular range from 1 to 8% by weight, in particular from 2 to 6% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0038] In particular, the total content of polyglycerol esters and (poly)hydroxylated fatty acids will generally range from 0.1 to 8% by weight, in particular from 0.5 to 6%, preferably from 1 to 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0039] The total content of polyglycerol esters and non (poly)hydroxylated fatty acids will generally range from 0 to 5% by weight, in particular from 0.5 to 4% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0040] Thus, according to a particular method, the composition of the invention comprises:

[0041] a) a candelilla resin, in particular in a content ranging from 0.2 to 3% by weight, preferably 1 to 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition,

[0042] b) a pullulan, in particular in a content ranging from 0.2 to 3% by weight, preferably 1 to 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, and

[0043] c) an emulsifying system, in a content ranging from 1 to 8% by weight, in particular from 2 to 6% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, comprising one of the following combinations: - Polyglyceryl-2 Dipolyhydroxystearate and Polyglyceryl-3 Diisostearate; - Polyglyceryl-6 Polyricinoleate, Polyglyceryl-10 Dioleate and Poly-glyceryl-2 isostearate; And - Polyglyceryl-2 Dipolyhydroxystearate and Polyglyceryl-3 Diisostearate,

[0044] preferably Polyglyceryl-2 Dipolyhydroxystearate and Polyglyceryl-3 Dii- sostearate.

[0045] Thus, according to a particular and preferred mode, the composition of the invention comprises:

[0046] a) a candelilla resin, in particular in a content ranging from 1 to 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition,

[0047] b) a pullulan, in particular in a content of 1 to 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition,

[0048] c) a Polyglyceryl-2 Dipolyhydroxystearate, in particular in a content of 1 to 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, and a Polyglyceryl-3 Di-sostearate, in particular in a content of 0.5 to 4% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Aqueous phase

[0049] The aqueous phase of the composition according to the invention generally represents from 40 to 85% by weight, in particular from 50 to 70% by weight, relative to the total weight of said composition.

[0050] The aqueous phase comprises water and optionally a water-soluble solvent.

[0051] The water content will generally range from 40 to 80% by weight, in particular from 50 to 65% by weight, relative to the total weight of said composition.

[0052] The term 'water-soluble solvent' according to the invention means a compound that is liquid at room temperature and miscible with water (miscibility in water greater than 50% by weight at 25 °C and atmospheric pressure). Examples include:

[0053] - lower C1-C5 monoalcohols such as ethanol, isopropanol and their mixtures, preferably ethanol;

[0054] - C2-C8 glycols such as ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, 1,3-butylene glycol, pentylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, and mixtures thereof, preferably C3-C5 glycols;

[0055] - C2-C32 polyols such as glycerol, polyglycerols, polyethylenes glycols, and their mixtures,

[0056] and their mixtures.

[0057] It may also include hydrophilic gelling agents, antioxidants, preservatives and mixtures thereof.

[0058] Thus, a cosmetic composition according to the invention further comprises at least one water-soluble solvent selected from lower C1-C5 monoalcohols, C2-C8 glycols preferably in C3-C5, C2-C32 polyols, and mixtures thereof, preferably in a total content of 5 to 25% by weight, in particular 8 to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of said composition.

[0059] According to a particular and preferred embodiment, the composition of the invention will advantageously further comprise at least polyols and / or glycols in a total content ranging from 3 to 12% by weight, in particular 5 to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition Position, for a moisturizing effect that promotes a radiant complexion (a 'glow' or luminous effect) without leaving a greasy residue. Preferably, the composition includes at least one or more C3-C5 glycols, preferably in a total content of 3 to 8% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Oily phase

[0060] The composition of the invention comprises at least one continuous oily phase.

[0061] The term "oily phase" means an oil or a mixture of oils that are miscible with each other.

[0062] By "oil" is meant a fatty substance, insoluble in water, liquid at 25°C and atmospheric pressure.

[0063] An oily phase according to the invention comprises one or more hydrocarbon oils.

[0064] These oils can be volatile or non-volatile, vegetable, mineral or synthetic.

[0065] Preferably, oils of natural origin will be used in the context of the invention.

[0066] According to a particular and preferred mode, the composition comprises one or more linear or branched C8-C19 alkanes, in particular:

[0067] - C8-C16 isoalkanes (also called isoparaffins) such as isododecane, isodecane, isohexadecane, and for example oils sold under the trade names ISOPAR® or PERMETYL®,

[0068] - linear alkanes having hydrocarbon chains in:

[0069] - C9-C17, C10-C14, Cl1-C13 such as a mixture of undecane and tridecane, com marketed by BASF Care Creations under the name Cetiol® Ultimate,

[0070] - C9-C12, C12-C14, such as those marketed by BIOSYNTHIS under the name mination VEGELIGHT® SILK (INCI name C9-12 ALKANE), VEGELIGHT® 1214LC,

[0071] - n-dodecane (C12) and n-tetradecane (C14), notably sold by Sasol respec tively under the references PARAFOL® 12-97 and PARAFOL® 14-97,

[0072] - C15-C19, such as those marketed by Seppic under the name EMOGREEN® L15,

[0073] and their mixtures.

[0074] According to a particular and preferred mode, the composition of the invention shall comprise one or more linear alkanes in C9-C14, preferably C9-C12 and one or more linear alkanes in C15-C19.

[0075] The total content of C8-C19 alkanes will generally range from 5 to 40% by weight, in particular from 10 to 30%, and better 10 to 20% relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0076] Preferably, the content of C9-C14 alkanes, preferably C9-C12, will range from 10% to 20% and the content of C15-C19 alkanes will range from 0.5% to 10%, preferably from 0.5% to 5% in weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0077] Indeed, to maintain and / or improve the desired non-transfer properties, the total content of linear C9-C14 alkanes, preferably C9-C12, will generally be greater than the total content of linear C15-C19 alkanes, since C9-C14 alkanes are more volatile than C15-C19 alkanes. In particular, the total content of linear C9-C14 alkanes, preferably C9-C12, will be 5 to 15 times greater than the total content of linear C15-C19 alkanes.

[0078] Thus, according to a particular mode, the composition of the invention further comprises one or more C8-C19 alkanes, in particular in a content ranging from 5 to 40% by weight, in particular from 10 to 30%, preferably from 10 to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of said composition, with a content of C9-C14 alkanes, preferably C9-C12, ranging preferably from 10% to 20% by weight and a content of C15-C19 alkanes ranging preferably from 0.5% to 10%, preferably again from 0.5 to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0079] Thus, according to a particular and preferred mode, the composition of the invention comprises:

[0080] a) a candelilla resin, in particular in a content ranging from 0.2 to 3% by weight, preferably 1 to 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition,

[0081] b) a pullulan, in particular in a content ranging from 0.2 to 3% by weight, preferably 1 to 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition,

[0082] c) an emulsifying system, in particular in a content of 1 to 8% by weight, in particular 2 to 6% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, comprising one of the following combinations: - Polyglyceryl-2 Dipolyhydroxy stearate and Polyglyceryl-3 Diisostearate; - Polyglyceryl-6 Polyricinoleate, Polyglyceryl-10 Dioleate and Poly-glyceryl-2 isostearate; And - Polyglyceryl-2 Dipolyhydroxystearate and Polyglyceryl-3 Diisostearate,

[0083] preferably Polyglyceryl-2 Dipolyhydroxystearate and Polyglyceryl-3 Diisostearate, and

[0084] d) one or more linear C8-C19 alkanes, in particular in a total content of 10 to 30% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, in particular one or more C9-C14 alkanes, preferably C9-C12 and advantageously also one or more C15-C19 alkanes, with a C9-C14 alkane content, preferably C9-C12, preferably ranging from 10% to 20% by weight and a C15-C19 alkane content preferably ranging from 0.5% to 10%, preferably also from 0.5% to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0085] According to a particular mode, the composition of the invention shall further comprise pigments and possibly fillers, preferably treated with a lipophilic treatment agent. Pigments

[0086] The composition of the invention shall further comprise one or more pigments.

[0087] According to a preferred method, the pigments are surface-treated by at least one hydrophobic or lipophilic treatment agent.

[0088] By "pigments" we mean white or colored particles, mineral or organic, insoluble in an aqueous solution, intended to color and / or opacify the resulting deposit.

[0089] According to a particular method, the pigment(s) are notably chosen from mineral and / or organic pigments, composite pigments (based on mineral and / or organic materials), mother-of-pearl or pearlescent pigments, and mixtures thereof.

[0090] Among the "mineral pigments", examples include titanium dioxide (rutile or anatase), possibly surface-treated; black, yellow, red and brown iron oxides; manganese violet; ultramarine blue; chromium oxide; hydrated chromium oxide; and ferric blue.

[0091] Among the "organic pigments", one can cite, for example, the pigments D & C red no. 19; D & C red no. 9; D & C Red no. 22; D & C Red no. 21; D & C Red no. 28; D & C Yellow no. 6; D & C orange no. 4; D & C orange no. 5; D & C Red no. 27; D & C red no. 13; D & C Red no. 7; D & C Red no. 6; D & C Yellow no. 5; D & C Red no. 36; D & C Red no. 33; D & C orange no. 10; D & C yellow no. 6; D & C Red no. 30; D & C red no. 3; D & C Blue 1; carbon black and cochineal carmine-based lakes.

[0092] According to a particular mode, the composition of the invention comprises at least iron oxides.

[0093] Advantageously, the pigments are surface-treated with at least one hydrophobic or lipophilic treatment agent for improved dispersion in the oil phase. The hydrophobic treatment agent is notably selected from the group consisting of metallic soaps, N-acylated amino acids or their salts; lecithin and its derivatives; isopropyl trisostearyl titanate; diisostearyl sebacate; natural vegetable or animal waxes, polar synthetic waxes; fatty esters; phospholipids, and mixtures thereof, in particular N-acylated amino acids or their salts.

[0094] In particular, the pigment(s) are present in the composition in a content ranging from 4% to 35% by weight, preferably from 8% to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Charges

[0095] The composition of the invention may further comprise one or more charges.

[0096] Preferably, the charge(s) are treated with a lipophilic agent such as those described for the pigments above.

[0097] The term "fillers" refers to particles of any shape, colorless or white, mineral or synthetic, insoluble in the composition medium. These fillers are used, in particular, to modify the rheology or texture of the composition and / or to impart a mattifying effect. The fillers may be mineral or organic and of any shape: platelet, spherical, or oblong.

[0098] Thus, for a mattifying makeup result, the composition may include one or more fillers in a total content ranging from 1 to 10% by weight, in particular from 2 to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0099] For a brighter makeup result ('glow' effect), little or no mattifying fillers will be used in the composition of the invention.

[0100] Thus, the charge(s) according to the invention are chosen in particular from: - cellulose powders, - microcrystalline cellulose, - lauroyl lysine, - Saccharomyces Ferment - boron nitride powders - silica powders, - starch powders, - calcium carbonate, - clays, - Synthetic Fluorphlogopite powders,

[0101] and mixtures thereof.

[0102] Examples include Saccharomyces Ferment-based composite powder and Lauroyl lysine such as that marketed under the name GRANDPOWDER® by Grant Industries, and hydrophobic treated cellulose powder such as that marketed under the name CELLULOBEADS® by DAITO KAISEI, or modified corn starch powder marketed under the name MICROMATRIX DRY SPHERE by CCW-SARL or magnesium stearate treated microcrystalline cellulose marketed under the name S-STM MAKIGREEN MC by Daito Kasei.

[0103] According to a particular method, the charge or charges according to the invention are chosen from the group consisting of cellulose powders, lauroyl lysine, Saccharomyces Ferment and their mixtures.

[0104] The total content of fillers according to the invention shall in particular range from 1 to 10% by weight, preferably from 2 to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of said composition. GALENIQUE

[0105] The composition is preferably intended to be applied to the skin, by it is particularly suitable for the skin of the face and / or neck and comes in the form of a water-in-oil (W / O) emulsion.

[0106] According to a particular mode, the composition is in the form of a facial fluid, a foundation, a tinted base, a finisher or a concealer. Preferably, it is a facial makeup composition, in particular a foundation.

[0107] According to a first mode, it will be a mattifying foundation (also called 'mat').

[0108] In another mode, it will be a luminous foundation (also called 'glow').

[0109] Thus, according to a particular embodiment of the invention, the composition of the invention is a mattifying complexion composition and comprises:

[0110] a) A candelilla resin, in particular in a content of 0.2 to 3% by weight, preferably 1 to 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition,

[0111] b) A pullulan, in particular in a content of 0.2 to 3% by weight, preferably 1 to 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition,

[0112] c) An emulsifying system, in particular in a content of 1 to 8% by weight, in particular 2 to 6% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, comprising one of the following combinations: - Polyglyceryl-2 Dipolyhydroxystearate and Polyglyceryl-3 Diisostearate; - Polyglyceryl-6 Polyricinoleate, Polyglyceryl-10 Dioleate and Poly-glyceryl-2 isostearate; And - Polyglyceryl-2 Dipolyhydroxystearate and Polyglyceryl-3 Diisostearate,

[0113] preferably Polyglyceryl-2 Dipolyhydroxystearate and Polyglyceryl-3 Diisostearate, and

[0114] d) One or more linear C8-C19 alkanes, in particular in a total content of 10 to 30% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, in particular one or more C9-C14 alkanes, preferably C9-C12, in a content preferably ranging from 10 to 20% by weight, and advantageously also one or more C15-C19 alkanes in a content preferably ranging from 0.5 to 10%, more preferably from 0.5 to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition,

[0115] e) Mineral pigments, in particular iron oxides, preferably surface-treated with a lipophilic agent, in particular at a content of 8 to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, and

[0116] f) Fillers, in particular cellulose or lauroyl lysine particles, in particular in a content of 2 to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0117] According to another particular embodiment of the invention, the composition of the invention is a luminous complexion formula and includes:

[0118] a) A candelilla resin, in particular in a content of 0.2 to 3% by weight, preferably 1 to 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition,

[0119] b) A pullulan, in particular in a content of 0.2 to 3% by weight, preferably 1 to 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition,

[0120] c) An emulsifying system, in particular in a content of 1 to 8% by weight, in particular 2 to 6% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, comprising one of the following combinations: - Polyglyceryl-2 Dipolyhydroxy stearate and Polyglyceryl-3 Diisostearate; - Polyglyceryl-6 Polyricinoleate, Polyglyceryl-10 Dioleate and Poly-glyceryl-2 isostearate; And - Polyglyceryl-2 Dipolyhydroxystearate and Polyglyceryl-3 Diisostearate,

[0121] preferably Polyglyceryl-2 Dipolyhydroxystearate and Polyglyceryl-3 Diisostearate,

[0122] d) One or more linear C8-C19 alkanes, in particular in a total content of 10 to 30% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, in particular one or more C9-C14 alkanes, preferably C9-C12, in a content preferably ranging from 10% to 20% by weight, and advantageously in addition one or more C15-C19 alkanes in a content preferably ranging from 0.5 to 10%, more preferably from 0.5 to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, and

[0123] e) Mineral pigments, in particular iron oxides, preferably surface-treated with a lipophilic agent, in particular in a content ranging from 8 to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0124] The composition of the invention may also include any additive commonly used in cosmetics such as antioxidants, gelling agents, preservatives, perfumes, cosmetic active agents, such as emollients, moisturizers, vitamins, anti-aging agents, brightening agents, and mixtures thereof.

[0125] According to a particular mode, the composition of the invention comprises at least one lipophilic gelling agent.

[0126] As lipophilic gelling agents, one can mention in particular mineral gelling agents such as bentones, preferably a quaternary hectorite. COSMETIC PROCESS

[0127] The invention also relates to a cosmetic method for making up keratinous materials, in particular skin, preferably facial and / or neck skin, comprising applying to said keratinous material at least one layer of a cosmetic composition as defined previously in the invention.

[0128] In particular, the cosmetic process according to the invention allows deposition on the skin of a film thin like a second skin, with a matte or luminous finish, comfortable and very soft, with good hold, without transfer.

[0129] According to a first embodiment, for a matte and transfer-proof makeup result, a foundation composition comprising: will be used in particular.

[0130] a) A candelilla resin, in particular in a content of 0.2 to 3% by weight, preferably 1 to 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition,

[0131] b) A pullulan, in particular in a content of 0.2 to 3% by weight, preferably 1 to 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition,

[0132] c) An emulsifying system, in particular in a content of 1 to 8% by weight, in particular 2 to 6% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, comprising one of the following combinations: - Polyglyceryl-2 Dipolyhydroxystearate and Polyglyceryl-3 Diisostearate; - Polyglyceryl-6 Polyricinoleate, Polyglyceryl-10 Dioleate and Poly-glyceryl-2 isostearate; And - Polyglyceryl-2 Dipolyhydroxystearate and Polyglyceryl-3 Diisostearate,

[0133] preferably Polyglyceryl-2 Dipolyhydroxystearate and Polyglyceryl-3 Diisostearate,

[0134] d) One or more linear C8-C19 alkanes, in particular in a total content of 10 to 30% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, in particular one or more C9-C14 alkanes, preferably C9-C12, in a content preferably ranging from 10 to 20% by weight and advantageously also one or more C15-C19 alkanes in a content preferably ranging from 0.5 to 10%, preferably again from 0.5 to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition,

[0135] e) Mineral pigments, in particular iron oxides, preferably surface-treated with a lipophilic agent, in particular at a content of 8 to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, and

[0136] f) Fillers, in particular cellulose or lauroyl lysine particles, in particular in a content of 2 to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0137] According to another embodiment, for a luminous and transfer-proof makeup result, a luminous complexion composition comprising: will be used in particular:

[0138] a) A candelilla resin, in particular in a content of 0.2 to 3% by weight, preferably 1 to 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition,

[0139] b) A pullulan, in particular in a content of 0.2 to 3% by weight, preferably 1 to 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition,

[0140] c) An emulsifying system, in particular in a content of 1 to 8% by weight, in particular 2 to 6% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, comprising one of the following combinations: - Polyglyceryl-2 Dipolyhydroxy stearate and Polyglyceryl-3 Diisostearate; - Polyglyceryl-6 Polyricinoleate, Polyglyceryl-10 Dioleate and Poly-glyceryl-2 isostearate; And - Polyglyceryl-2 Dipolyhydroxystearate and Polyglyceryl-3 Diisostearate,

[0141] preferably Polyglyceryl-2 Dipolyhydroxystearate and Polyglyceryl-3 Diisostearate,

[0142] d) One or more linear C8-C19 alkanes, in particular in a total content of 10 to 30% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, in particular one or more C9-C14 alkanes, preferably C9-C12, in a content preferably ranging from 10 to 20% by weight and advantageously also one or more C15-C19 alkanes in a content preferably ranging from 0.5 to 10%, more preferably from 0.5 to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, and

[0143] e) Mineral pigments, in particular iron oxides, preferably surface-treated with a lipophilic agent, in particular in a content of 8 to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0144] The invention will be illustrated in the following non-limiting examples. Unless otherwise indicated, percentages are expressed as a percentage by weight relative to the total weight of said composition. EXAMPLES

[0145] The Applicant tested several film-forming agents to select the candelilla resin and pullulan combination present in the compositions of the invention. Example 1: Selection of candelilla resin

[0146] [Tables 1] INGREDIENTS (INCI Name) % by weight % by weight Comparison Invention EUPHORBIA CERIFERA (CANDELILLA) WAX EXTRACT (CANDELILLA RESIN-) - 1 PULLULAN 1 1 CANARIUM LUZONICUM GUM NON-VOLATILE (AND) SUNFLOWER) SEED OIL (RESIN BEECH) 1 - AQUA (purified water) QsplOO QsplOO C9-12 ALKANE 13.2 13.2 COCO-CAPRYLATE / CAPRATE 1.6 1.6 C15-19 ALKANE 1 1 DISTEARDIMONIUM HECTORITE 0.6 0.6 POLYGLYCERYL-2 ISOSTEARATE 1 1 POLYGLYCERYL-6 POLYRICINOLEATE 2.9 2.9 POLYGLYCERYL-10 DECAISOSTEARATE 0.5 0.5 PIGMENTS Inorganic Hydrophobic Treated Ingredients 13 13 Pigment Dispersant 0.1 0.1 Glycols C3-C5 5 5 Sodium Chloride 0.5 0.5 Preservatives and Fragrances Qs Qs Evaluations Stability Not stable Stable Non-transfer Nd ++ Dullness Nd -

[0147] Nd= not determined Preparation protocol

[0148] The compositions are prepared according to the following protocol: • The pigments, some of the oils, and the pigment dispersant are mixed and passed through a three-roll mill at room temperature to obtain a pigment paste; • Separately, an oil phase was prepared with the lipophilic polymer (candelilla resin), which was heated and homogenized while hot; this oil phase was then cooled before incorporation; • The aqueous phase is prepared by mixing water, glycols, water-soluble polymer (pullulan) and additives at room temperature until homogenized; • The oil phase is prepared at room temperature: the remaining part of the oils, the surfactants and the hectorite are homogenized under agitation; then the pigment paste prepared above is added, and the whole is homogenized under strong shear; finally the oil phase with the lipophilic polymer is added and the whole is homogenized; • The aqueous phase is then gradually poured into the oily phase while gradually increasing the agitation to emulsify the two phases at room temperature, and the mixture is left under agitation for about fifteen minutes. • The fillers, when present (for example in example 1.2 described below), can either be added beforehand in their affinity phase (lipophilic in this case) before emulsification or after emulsification under strong agitation, and the mixture is allowed to homogenize for 10-15 minutes. Evaluation protocols

[0149] The compositions thus obtained are evaluated according to different criteria, the protocols of which are specified below: - Stability of the composition over time and at different temperatures, - Non-transfer of the foundation film measured with a texture meter, - Matte finish of the foundation film (shine measurement at 60° with a shine meter), - And if applicable, foundation coverage (Color measurement using a spectrocolorimeter).

[0150] The amount of foundation applied is calibrated.

[0151] Evaluation of the stability of the composition

[0152] The stability of the composition is evaluated in ovens under the following conditions: - 3 months at room temperature (TA); - 2 weeks alternating (12-hour cycles between -10°C and +40°C) - 1 month at 50°C - 3 months at 45°C, and - 6 months at 4°C.

[0153] A composition is said to be stable if it is stable under all the above-described conditions.

[0154] Evaluation of non-transfer

[0155] The foundation is spread on a support and after drying in an oven (Ih at 40°C), the non-transfer properties of the film are evaluated using a Texturemeter equipped with cotton and analysis of the soiling state of the cotton compared to the white reference (white cotton).

[0156] The amount of foundation applied is calibrated.

[0157] The following notations are assigned:

[0158] +++: does not transfer

[0159] ++: very slight transfer

[0160] +: slight transfer

[0161] - : transfer

[0162] Evaluation of dullness

[0163] The matte / glossy character of the composition is evaluated using a glossmeter, which measures the reflective gloss of a surface. A value for this parameter is determined by projecting a beam of light at a fixed intensity and angle onto a surface and measuring the amount of light reflected at an equal but opposite angle. Angle: 60°. The composition is spread (30 µm) on a LENETA contrast card and then placed in an oven at 25°C, 40% humidity for 24 hours. Four measurements are taken (2 on a black card, 2 on a white card), and the values ​​are measured with standard deviations. The results are analyzed against comparative values ​​using the following reference: < 5 = matte; > 30 = glow or luminous; > 60 = glossy.

[0164] The following notations are assigned with reference to dullness:

[0165] +++: very matte

[0166] ++ : mat

[0167] + : medium matte

[0168] - : slightly shiny (which can also be described as luminous or "glow")

[0169] — : brilliant

[0170] — : very bright

[0171] Coverage

[0172] The coverage of certain compositions was also evaluated (example 1.2 below)

[0173] The coverage of the foundation applied to the skin is evaluated by an expert.

[0174] The coverage of imperfections in the relief of the foundation film applied to the skin of the face can be evaluated immediately after application (T0 and T6h).

[0175] The following notations are assigned with reference to coverage:

[0176] +++: very covering

[0177] ++: moderate coverage

[0178] + : low coverage

[0179] - : not covering

[0180] The results of the evaluations noted in Table 1 show that the use of a Candelilla resin, compared to other resins, allows, in association with pullulan, in a water-in-oil emulsion comprising an emulsifying system comprising one or more distinct polyglycerol and fatty acid esters, to obtain good stability of the composition, good non-transfer properties and matte finish. Example 2. Pullulan selection 2.1 Formulations with and without pullulan

[0181] [Tables2] INGREDIENTS (INCI name) % by weight % by weight % by weight % by weight % by weight Comparati f Comparati f Inventio n Inventio n Inventio n EUPHORBIA CERIFERA (CANDELILLA) WAX EXTRACT (CANDELILLA RESIN E-2) 1.0 2.0 1.0 1.0 1.0 PULLULAN - - 1.0 1.0 1.0 C9-12 ALKANE 13.7 13.7 13.7 14.2 13.7 COCO-CAPRYLATE / CAPRA TE 1.6 1.6 1.6 1.7 1.6 C15-19 ALKANE 1.0 1.0 1.0 1.0 1.0 DISTEARDIMONIUM HECTORITE 0.4 0.4 0.4 - 0.4 POLYGLYCERYL-2 DIPO-LYHYDROXYSTEARATE 1.0 1.0 1.0 1.0 1.0 POLYGLYCERYL-3 DIL SOSTEARATE 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 INORGANIC PIGMENTS WITH HYDROPHOBIC TREATMENT 14 13 13 13 13 PIGMENT DISPERSANT 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1 FILLERS WITH HYDROPHOBIC TREATMENT 3.0 3.0 3.0 - - C3-C5 GLYCOLS 5.0 5.0 5.0 5.0 5.0 PRESERVATIVES AND PERFUMES qs Qs qs qs qs AQUA (purified water) qsplOO qsplOO qsplOO qsplOO qsplOO EVALUATION S Stability Not stable Not stable stable stable stable No transfer nd nd +++ ++ +++ Dullness nd nd +++ + ++

[0182] nd= not determined

[0183] The compositions are prepared and evaluated according to the preparation and evaluation protocols described in Example 1.

[0184] The evaluation results shown in Table 2 demonstrate that the use of pullulan, compared to a formulation without pullulan, in combination with candelilla resin, in a water-in-oil emulsion comprising an emulsifying system including one or more distinct polyglycerol and fatty acid esters, provides good stability of the composition and very good non-transfer properties. The composition also exhibits good mattifying properties.

[0185] The last examples according to the invention in this table 2 show that the presence of hectorite contributes to the result of the matte finish of the composition (the composition without hectorite is less matte).

[0186] 2.2 Compositions with pullulan compared to a starch (other poly saccharide)

[0187] [Tables3] INGREDIENTS (INCI name) % by weight % by weight % by weight Comparison Invention Invention EUPHORBIA CERIFERA (CANDELILLA) WAX EXTRACT (CANDELILLA RESIN) 1.0 1.0 1.0 PULLULAN - 1.0 1.0 HYDROXYPROPYL STARCH (BEAUTE BY ROQUETTE) 1.0 - - C9-12 ALKANE 11.3 11.3 12.7 COCO-CAPRYLATE / CAPRATE 1.5 1.5 1.6 C15-19 ALKANE 1.0 1.0 1.0 POLYGLYCERYL-6 POLYRL CINOLEATE 3.2 3.2 3.2 POLYGLYCERYL-10 DECAL SOSTEARATE 1.0 1.0 1.0 POLYGLYCERYL-10 DIOLEATE 0.8 0.8 0.8 Hydrophobic Inorganic Pigments 13 13 12.3 Pigment Dispersive 0.1 0.1 0.1 Load with Hydrophobic Treatment - - 3.0 C3-C5 Glycols 5.0 5.0 5.0 Preservatives and Fragrances qs qs qs Aqua (Water) qsp 100 qsp 100 qsp 100 Evaluations Stability stable stable stable Non-transfer — ++ ++ Matteness nd — +++ Coverage nd + +++

[0188] nd= not determined

[0189] The compositions are prepared and evaluated according to the preparation and evaluation protocols described in Example 1.

[0190] The results of the evaluations noted in Table 3 show that the use of pullulan, compared to another polysaccharide, here a starch, allows, in association with candelilla resin, in a water-in-oil emulsion comprising an emulsifying system comprising one or more distinct polyglycerol and fatty acid esters, to obtain good stability of the composition and good non-transfer properties.

[0191] The addition of one or more fillers with a lipophilic treatment, as in the second example according to the invention in Table 3, makes it possible to increase the mattifying and coverage properties of the foundation film applied to the skin.

[0192] Example 3: Illustrative examples of foundation according to the invention

[0193] 3.1 Compositions according to the invention with an emulsifying system comprising Polyglyceryl-6 polyricinoleate and Polyglyceryl-10 dioleate

[0194] [Tables4] INGREDIENTS (INCI name) % by weight % by weight Luminous foundation Matte foundation EUPHORBIA CERIFERA (CANDELILLA) WAX EXTRACT (CANDELILLA RESIN E-2) 1 1 PULLULAN 1 1 C9-12 ALKANE 11.3 9.9 COCO-CAPRYLATE / CAPRATE 1.5 1.4 C15-19 ALKANE 1 1 POLYGLYCERYL-6 POLYRICINOLEATE 4.2 4.2 POLYGLYCERYL-10 DIOLEATE 0.8 0.8 HYDROPHOBIC TREATED INORGANIC PIGMENTS 13 13 PIGMENT DISPERSANT 0.1 0.1 FILLERS WITH HYDROPHOBIC TREATMENT 3.0 C3-C5 GLYCOLS 5 5 PRESERVATIVES AND PERFUMES qs qs AQUA (water) purified) qsp 100 qsp 100 EVALUATIONS Stability stable stable No transfer ++ ++ Dullness — ++

[0195] The compositions are prepared and evaluated according to the preparation and evaluation protocols described in Example 1.

[0196] The results of the evaluations noted in Table 4 show that the addition of fillers with a lipophilic treatment makes it possible, in association with the film-forming system and the emulsifying system of the invention, to obtain an improved matte finish without impacting the stability and non-transfer properties.

[0197] For a less matte and brighter result, the composition will include little or no filler, as illustrated by the first formula in this table.

[0198] 3.2 Composition according to the invention with an emulsifying system comprising Polyglyceryl-4 oleate and Polyglyceryl-3 polyricinoleate

[0199] [Tables5] INGREDIENTS (INCI Name) % by weight % by weight Luminous Foundation Matte Foundation EUPHORBIA CERIFERA (CANDELILLA) WAX EXTRACT (CANDELILLA RESIN E-2) 1.0 1.0 PULLULAN 1.0 1.0 C9-12 ALKANE 12.3 11.0 COCO-CAPRYLATE / CAPRATE 1.5 1.4 C15-19 ALKANE 1.5 1.5 DISTEARDIMONIUM HECTORITE 0.5 0.5 POLYGLYCERYL-4 OLEATE (AND) POLY-GLYCERYL-3 POLYRICINOLEATE 3.0 3.0 HYDROPHOBIC-TREATED INORGANIC PIGMENTS 13 13 PIGMENT DISPERSANT 0.1 0.1 HYDROPHOBIC-TREATED FILLERS - 3.0 GLYCOLS C3-C5 5.0 5.0 PRESERVATIVES AND PERFUMES qs qs AQUA (purified water) Qsp 100 Qsp 100 Stability stable Stable Non-transfer ++ ++ Matte finish - (glossy) +++ (matte)

[0200] The compositions are prepared and evaluated according to the preparation and evaluation protocols described in Example 1.

[0201] The results of the evaluations noted in Table 4 show that the addition of fillers with a lipophilic treatment makes it possible, in association with the film-forming system and the emulsifying system of the invention, to obtain an improved matte finish without impacting the stability and non-transfer properties.

[0202] For a less matte and brighter result, the composition will include little or no filler, as illustrated by the first formula in this table.

Claims

Demands

1. A cosmetic composition in the form of a water-in-oil emulsion comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium: a) a Candelilla resin, b) a pullulan, and c) an emulsifying system comprising one or more distinct polyglycerol and fatty acid esters, optionally (poly)hydroxylated, characterized in that it further comprises d) one or more linear C9-C14 alkanes, preferably C9-C12, and one or more linear C15-C19 alkanes, and in that its water content ranges from 40 to 80% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

2. A cosmetic composition according to claim 1, characterized in that the polyglycerol and fatty acid ester(s), optionally (poly)hydroxylated, are selected from the group consisting of Poly-glyceryl-2 Dipolyhydroxystearate, Polyglyceryl-2 Isostearate, Poly-glyceryl-3 Diisostearate, Polyglyceryl-2 Diisostearate, Poly-glyceryl-4 Diisostearate, Polyglyceryl-2 Triisostearate, Poly-glyceryl-2 Stearate, Polyglyceryl-3 Dicitrate / Stearate, Poly-glyceryl-3 Polyricinoleate, Polyglyceryl-6 Polyricinoleate, Poly-glyceryl-4 Caprate, Polyglyceryl-4 Oleate, Polyglyceryl-10 Dioleate, Polyglyceryl-10 Laurate, and mixtures thereof, preferably selected from the group consisting of Polyglyceryl-2 Dipolyhydroxystearate, Polyglyceryl-2 isostearate, Polyglyceryl-3 Diisostearate, Polyglyceryl-3 Polyricinoleate, Polyglyceryl-6 Polyricinoleate, Polyglyceryl-4 oleate, Polyglyceryl-10 Dioleate, and mixtures thereof.

3. Composition according to claim 1 or claim 2, characterized in that it comprises at least a polyglycerol and non-(poly)hydroxylated fatty acid ester, and optionally further a polyglycerol and (poly)hydroxylated fatty acid ester.

4. Composition according to claim 3, characterized in that it comprises one or more distinct polyglycerol and fatty acid esters, selected from the group consisting of: - Polyglyceryl-6 Polyricinoleate and Polyglyceryl-10 Dioleate - Polyglyceryl-2 Isostearate - Polyglyceryl-4 Oleate and Polyglyceryl-3 Polyricinoleate - Polyglyceryl-6 Polyricinoleate and Polyglyceryl-2 Isostearate - Polyglyceryl-6 Polyricinoleate - Polyglyceryl-3 Diisostearate - Polyglyceryl-2 Dipolyhydroxystearate and mixtures thereof, in particular polyglycerol and fatty acid esters selected from the group consisting of: - Polyglyceryl-6 Polyricinoleate and Polyglyceryl-10 Dioleate and Polyglyceryl-2 Isostearate - Polyglyceryl-2 Dipolyhydroxystearate and Polyglyceryl-3 Diisostearate - Polyglyceryl-6 Polyricinoleate and Polyglyceryl-10 Dioleate and Polyglyceryl-6 Polyricinoleate and - Polyglyceryl-4 Oleate and Polyglyceryl-3 Polyricinoleate, and preferably polyglycerol and fatty acid esters selected from the group consisting of: - Polyglyceryl-2 Dipolyhydroxystearate and Polyglyceryl-3 Diisostearate and - Polyglyceryl-6 Polyricinoleate and Polyglyceryl-10 Dioleate and Polyglyceryl-2 isostearate and more preferably Polyglyceryl-2 Dipolyhydroxystearate and Po-lyglyceryl-3 Diisostearate.

5. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 4, characterized in that the total content of polyglycerol esters and optionally (poly)hydroxylated fatty acids ranges from 1 to 8% by weight, in particular from 2 to 6% by weight relative to the total weight of said composition.

6. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 5, characterized in that the candelilla resin content ranges from 0.2 to 3% by weight, in particular from 0.5 to 3% by weight, in particular from 1% to 2% by weight relative to the total weight of said composition.

7. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 6, characterized in that the pullulan content ranges from 0.2 to 3% by weight, in particular from 1 to 2% by weight relative to the total weight of said composition.

8. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 7, characterized in that the total C9-C19 alkane content is from 5 to 40% by weight, in particular from 10 to 30%, preferably from 10 to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of said composition, with a content in C9-C14 alkanes, preferably C9-C12, preferably ranging from 10% to 20% by weight and a content of C15-C19 alkanes preferably ranging from 0.5% to 10%, preferably still from 0.5% to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

9. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 8, characterized in that it further comprises pigments and fillers, preferably treated with a lipophilic treatment agent.

10. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 9, characterized in that it is a facial fluid, a foundation, a primer, a 'finisher' or a concealer.

11. A cosmetic method for making up keratinous materials, in particular skin, preferably facial and / or neck skin, comprising applying to said keratinous material at least one layer of a cosmetic composition as defined in any one of claims 1 to 10.