COSMETIC COMPOSITION BASED ON ZINC OXIDE AND BISETHYHEXYLOXYPHENOL METHOXYPHENYL TRIAZINE
A synergistic blend of zinc oxide and Bis-Ethylhexyloxyphenol Methoxyphenyl Triazine in specific ratios addresses the challenge of achieving effective UV protection with a stable and pleasant texture, reducing filter concentrations and enhancing consumer safety.
Patent Information
- Application Number
- FR2023001829
- Authority / Receiving Office
- FR · FR
- Patent Type
- Patents
- Current Assignee / Owner
- Filing Date
- 2023-02-28
- Publication Date
- 2026-02-20
- Estimated Expiration
- 2043-02-28
AI Technical Summary
Existing sunscreens often require high concentrations of multiple UV filters to achieve effective protection, which can compromise the texture and stability of cosmetic compositions, raising consumer safety concerns.
A composition comprising zinc oxide and Bis-Ethylhexyloxyphenol Methoxyphenyl Triazine in specific ratios, without additional UV filters, exhibits a synergistic effect, providing high UV protection with a reduced number of filters, maintaining a stable and pleasant texture.
The combination achieves high SPF and UVAPF values with a composition that is cosmetically appealing and safe, using lower concentrations of UV filters.
Abstract
Description
Title of the invention: Cosmetic composition based on zinc oxide and Bis-Ethylhexyloxyphenol Methoxyphenyl Triazine
[0001] The present invention relates to a composition, preferably cosmetic, comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium, zinc oxide and 2,4-bis-{[4-(2-ethylhexyloxy)-2-hydroxy]-phenyl]-6-(4-methoxyphenyl)-1,3,5-triazine (INCI name: Bis-Ethylhexyloxyphenol Methoxyphenyl Triazine), in specific amounts, said composition being substantially free of other UV filter(s).
[0002] It is known that radiation with wavelengths between 280 nm and 400 nm allows the human epidermis to tan, while radiation with wavelengths between 280 and 320 nm, known as UVB rays, hinders the development of a natural tan. Exposure is also likely to cause a detrimental change in the biomechanical properties of the epidermis, resulting in the appearance of wrinkles leading to premature skin aging (i.e., photoaging).
[0003] It is also known that UVA rays with a wavelength between 320 and 400 nm penetrate the skin more deeply than UVB rays. UVA rays cause immediate and persistent tanning of the skin. Daily exposure to UVA rays, even for short periods, under normal conditions can damage collagen and elastin fibers, resulting in changes to the skin's microrelief, the appearance of wrinkles, and uneven pigmentation (spots, uneven skin tone).
[0004] Numerous studies show the need for effective protection against UVA and / or UVB to prevent sunburn and / or photoaging.
[0005] However, many consumers question the safety of sunscreens, which restricts their use. Zinc oxide, in particular, enjoys a very good reputation and is increasingly used.
[0006] In order to obtain a product with high protection, it is also generally necessary to combine a large number of sun filters and / or high filter ratios to achieve high levels of filtering efficiency.
[0007] However, high levels of UV filters do not lend themselves to the easy development of compositions with a stabilized and pleasant texture.
[0008] There is therefore a need to offer consumers highly effective sun protection products, containing a reduced number of sun filters at the lowest possible concentration, while maintaining good cosmetic appeal.
[0009] The invention meets this need.
[0010] In particular, and surprisingly, the Applicant discovered that a composition comprising the combination of zinc oxide and 2,4-bis-{[4-(2-ethylhexyloxy)-2-hydroxy]-phenyl]-6-(4-methoxyphenyl)-1,3,5-triazine (INCI Name: Bis-Ethylhexyloxyphenol Methoxyphenyl Triazine; BEMT), without any other sunscreen, in specific quantities, exhibits a synergistic effect in terms of sunscreen filtration, and thus an unexpected effectiveness.
[0011] The present invention thus relates to a composition, preferably cosmetic, comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium:
[0012] of 4.5% to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of composition of 2,4-bis-{[4-(2-ethylhexyloxy)-2-hydroxy]-phenyl]-6-(4-methoxyphenyl)-1,3,5-triazine (INCI Name: Bis-Ethylhexyloxyphenol Methoxyphenyl Triazine), and
[0013] from 5% to 25% by weight relative to the total weight of zinc oxide composition,
[0014] the composition comprising less than 3% by weight relative to the total weight of com position of other UV filter(s).
[0015] By "physiologically acceptable medium" is meant a medium compatible with keratinous materials. By "keratinous materials" is meant in particular the skin, the scalp, keratinous fibers such as eyelashes, eyebrows, hair, and body hair, nails, mucous membranes such as the lips, and more particularly the skin and mucous membranes (body, face, eye contour, eyelids, lips, preferably body, face and lips).
[0016] In what follows, and unless otherwise indicated, the bounds of a domain of values are included in that domain, in particular in the expressions "between" and "ranging from ... to ...".
[0017] Furthermore, the expressions "at least one" and "at least" used in this description are respectively equivalent to the expressions "one or more" and "greater than or equal to".
[0018] Within the framework of the invention, the filtering efficiency is evaluated from the evaluation of the SPF and the UVAPF.
[0019] For the purposes of the present invention, "SPF" (Sun Protection Factor) refers to the sun protection factor, which measures the level of protection against UVB radiation. The SPF value corresponds to the ratio between the minimum time required to obtain a sunburn with a sunscreen composition and that without the product. More specifically, the term "SPF" is defined in the article "A new substrate to measure sunscreen protection factors throughout the ultraviolet spectrum," J. Soc. Cosmet. Chem., 40, 127-133 (May / June 1989).
[0020] The SPF (Sun Protection Factor) can be evaluated in vitro using the Labsphere® spectrophotometer. The plate is the material onto which the solar composition is applied. For this protocol, polymethyl methacrylate (PMMA) plates are have proven ideal. A particular protocol, presented as an example, is currently undergoing ISO approval under the name ISO Committee Draft 23675.
[0021] The evaluation of the Sun Protection Factor (SPF) of compositions can also be carried out in-vivo according to the ISO 24444:2019 protocol “Cosmetics-Sun protection test methods-In-vivo determination of the sun protection factor (SPF)”.
[0022] For the purposes of this invention, UVAPF refers to the index characterizing protection against UVA radiation. In particular, this index can be measured in vivo according to the "PPD" (Persistent Pigment Darkening) method, ISO-24442:2022 protocol, and measures the skin color observed 2 to 4 hours after UVA exposure. UVA protection can also be assessed in vitro using the Labsphere® spectrophotometer. The plate is the material onto which the sunscreen composition is applied. For this protocol, polymer methyl methacrylate (PMMA) plates have proven ideal. ISO 24443:2021 protocol describes such an in vitro method.
[0023] The present invention also relates to a non-therapeutic cosmetic treatment method for keratinous materials, preferably of the skin, comprising applying a composition according to the invention to said keratinous materials. Bis-Ethylhexyloxyphenol Methoxyphenyl Triazine
[0024] The composition according to the invention comprises from 4.5% to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of composition of 2,4-bis-{[4-(2-ethylhexyloxy)-2-hydroxy]-phenyl]-6-(4-methoxyphenyl)-1,3,5-triazine (INCI Name: Bis-Ethylhexyloxyphenol Methoxyphenyl Triazine).
[0025] By way of example, Bis-Ethylhexyloxyphenol Methoxyphenyl Triazine, marketed as TINOSORB® S by BASF or as PARSOL® SHIELD by DSM, can be used. It can also be found in its water-dispersible form, with the INCI name Bis-Ethylhexyloxyphenol Methoxyphenyl Triazine (and) Acrylates / C 12-22 Alkyl Methacrylate Copolymer, under the trade name TINOSORB® S LiteAqua by BASF.
[0026] The composition according to the invention comprises preferably 5% to 9% by weight relative to the total weight of composition, preferably 5.5% to 8% by weight, preferably 5.7% to 7% by weight of 2,4-bis-{[4-(2-ethylhexyloxy)-2-hydroxy]-phenyl]-6-(4-methoxyphenyl)-1,3,5-triazine (INCI Name: Bis-Ethylhexyloxyphenol Methoxyphenyl Triazine). Zinc oxide
[0027] The composition according to the invention comprises from 5% to 25% by weight relative to the total weight of zinc oxide composition.
[0028] Zinc oxide is an inorganic UV filter.
[0029] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, it is in the form of particles having an average elementary particle size less than or equal to 0.5 pm, preferably between 0.005 and 0.5 pm, and even more preferably between 0.01 and 0.2 pm, even better between 0.01 and 0.1 pm, and more particularly between 0.015 and 0.05 pm.
[0030] Zinc oxide particles are pigments that can be coated or uncoated.
[0031] Coated pigments are pigments that have undergone one or more surface treatments of a chemical, electronic, mechanochemical and / or mechanical nature with compounds such as amino acids, beeswax, fatty acids, fatty alcohols, anionic surfactants, lecithins, sodium, potassium, zinc, iron or aluminum salts of fatty acids, metal alkoxides (titanium or aluminum), polyethylene, silicones, hydrated silica, proteins (collagen, elastin), alkanolamines, silicon oxides, triethoxycaprylylsilane, metal oxides or sodium hexametaphosphate.
[0032] Uncoated zinc oxide pigments are, for example:
[0033] - those marketed under the name "Z-COTE®" by BASF;
[0034] - those marketed under the name "NanoArc® Zinc Oxide" by the company Nanophase Technologies;
[0035] - those marketed under the name "MZ-500", "MZ-300", "MZ-200" or "MZ-150" by the company TAYCA; or
[0036] - those marketed under the name Solaveil MZP3 by the company CRODA.
[0037] Coated zinc oxide pigments are, for example:
[0038] - ZnO coated with polymethylhydrogensiloxane;
[0039] - the "Solaveil™ CZ-100" of CRODA dispersed in Cl2-15 alkyl benzonate (INCI: Zinc Oxide (and) C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate (and) Polyhydroxystearic Acid (and) Isostearic Acid);
[0040] - those marketed under the name and "DAITOPERSION Zn-60VA®" by the Daito Kasei company (dispersions in C9-12 alkane with a dispersing agent);
[0041] - those marketed under the name "SPD-Z5®" by the company Shin-Etsu (ZnO coated with silicone-grafted acrylic polymer, dispersed in cyclodimethyl-siloxane);
[0042] - ZnO coated with hydrated silica, such as that marketed by TAYCA under the name "MZ-500HP";
[0043] -ZnO coated with hydrated silica, triethoxysilylethyl polydimethylsi-loxyethyl hexyl dimethicone and hydrogen dimethicone (H-Me-Si), such as that marketed by TAYCA under the name MZ-510 HPSX;
[0044] - ZnO coated with stearic acid or isostearic acid, such as those com marketed by TAYCA under the name "MZ-505T", "MZY-505EX" or "MZY-304EX";
[0045] - ZnO coated with a silicone oil, such as those marketed by TAYCA under the name "MZX-510HPS", "MZY-505S", "MZY-510M3S", "MZ-505M", "MZY-303S", "MZY-303M", "MZY-203S", "MZY-210M3S" or "MZY-153S"; or
[0046] - ZnO coated with triethoxycaprylylsilane, such as those marketed by BASF under the name Z-COTE HP1, or by TAYCA under the name “MZX-508OTS”, “MZY-203OTS” or “MZX-304OTS” or by DSM under the name PARSOL ZX, or by CRODA under the name Solaveil MZP7.
[0047] According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the ZnO coating comprises at least hydrated silica.
[0048] The composition according to the invention preferably comprises 5% to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of composition, preferably 5% to 15% by weight of zinc oxide, preferably 5% to 10% by weight. Other UV filter(s)
[0049] The composition according to the invention comprises less than 3% by weight relative to the total composition weight of other UV filter(s).
[0050] Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises less than 2% by weight, preferably less than 1% by weight relative to the total weight of composition of other UV filter(s).
[0051] Preferably, the composition according to the invention is totally free of other UV filter(s).
[0052] By "other UV filter(s)" means UV filters distinct from zinc oxide and Bis-Ethylhexyloxyphenol Methoxyphenyl Triazine.
[0053] These other UV filter(s) can be chosen from among lipophilic organic UV filters, hydrophilic organic UV filters and inorganic UV filters.
[0054] By "lipophilic organic filter" is meant any cosmetic or dermatological organic compound that filters UV radiation and is capable of being completely dissolved in molecular form in a liquid oil phase or of being solubilized in colloidal form (for example in micellar form) in a liquid oil phase.
[0055] Lipophilic organic filters are selected in particular from among cin-namic compounds; anthranilate compounds; salicylic compounds; dibenzoylmethane compounds; benzylidene camphor compounds; benzophenone compounds; [3,[3-diphenylacrylate] compounds; triazine compounds other than Bis-Ethylhexyloxyphenol Methoxyphenyl Triazine; benzotriazole compounds; benzalmalonate compounds, in particular those mentioned in US patent 5624663; benzimidazole derivatives; imidazoline compounds; and bis-benzoazolyl compounds. as described in patents EP669323 and US 2,463,264; methylene bis-(hydroxyphenyl benzotriazole) compounds as described in applications US5,237,071, US 5,166,355, GB2303549, DE 197 26 184 and EP893119; benzoxazole compounds as described in patent applications EP0832642, EP1027883, EP1300137 and DE10162844; filter polymers and filter silicones such as those described in particular in application WO-93 / 04665; α-alkylstyrene derived dimers such as those described in patent application DE19855649; 4,4-diarylbutadiene compounds as described in applications EP0967200, DE19746654, DE19755649, EP-A-1008586, EPI 133980 and EP133981 and mixtures thereof.
[0056] Preferably, the lipophilic organic filter(s) are chosen from salicylic compounds, dibenzoylmethane compounds, benzylidene camphor compounds; benzophenone compounds; triazine compounds other than Bis-Ethylhexyloxyphenol Methoxyphenyl Triazine; benzotriazole compounds; and mixtures thereof.
[0057] By hydrophilic organic UV filter, we mean, in the context of the present invention, a water-soluble organic UV filter or a water-dispersible organic UV filter.
[0058] By "water-soluble organic filter" is meant any organic filter capable of being totally dissolved in molecular form in a liquid aqueous phase, or of being dissolved in colloidal form (for example in micellar form) in a liquid aqueous phase.
[0059] The term “hydrodispersible organic filter” means any organic filter capable of forming, in a liquid aqueous phase, a homogeneous suspension of particles with a volume average size of less than 100 microns. The volume average size is determined by laser diffraction particle size analysis.
[0060] The inorganic UV filters that can be used are metal oxide pigments, other than zinc oxide. More preferably, the inorganic UV filters can be chosen in particular from titanium, iron, zirconium, cerium oxides or mixtures thereof.
[0061] Such metal oxide pigments, coated or uncoated, are described in particular in patent application EP-A-0 518 773. Commercial pigments include those sold by CRODA, TAYCA, and MERCK. Aqueous phase
[0062] The composition according to the invention may comprise at least one aqueous phase.
[0063] Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises at least water.
[0064] The aqueous phase may comprise at least one other organic solvent soluble in Water, at 25°C, chosen for example from:
[0065] - C1-C4 monoalkanols. The term "C1-C4 monoalkanol" means any compound a saturated alkane, linear or branched, having from 1 to 4 carbon atoms and a single hydroxyl function (OH). The C1-C4 monoalkanol(s) present in the compositions of the invention may be chosen from methanol, ethanol, propanol, isopropanol, butanol or mixtures thereof. Ethanol will be chosen more particularly;
[0066] - polyols having in particular from 2 to 20 carbon atoms, preferably from 2 to 6 carbon atoms, such as glycerol, diglycerol, propylene glycol, isoprene glycol, dipropylene glycol, butylene glycol, hexylene glycol, 1,3-propanediol, pentylene glycol, simple sugars, water-soluble polyalkylene glycols; and
[0067] - mixtures thereof.
[0068] Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one polyol, preferably selected from glycerol, 1,3-propanediol and mixtures thereof.
[0069] They are generally present at concentrations ranging from 0.5 to 40% by weight, more preferably from 3 to 30%, and preferably from 5% to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0070] The composition preferably comprises 20 to 90% by weight of water relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably 30 to 90% by weight, preferably 40 to 70% by weight. Thickening polymer
[0071] The composition according to the invention may include at least one thickening polymer.
[0072] According to a particular embodiment, these polymers are water-soluble, water-dispersible or water-swellable.
[0073] Among the usable thickening polymers, we can mention natural polymers, crosslinked homopolymers or copolymers of acrylic or methacrylic acid, homopolymers of 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropane sulfonic acid, crosslinked or not, or their salts, and copolymers of acrylamido-2-methylpropane sulfonic acid or its salts and one or more non-ionic monomers, crosslinked or not, alone or in mixtures.
[0074] Among the natural polymers, we can mention xanthan gum, sclerotium gum, carob gum, or cellulose and its derivatives such as hydroxyethylcellulose.
[0075] Among the crosslinked homopolymers of acrylic acid, we can cite those crosslinked by an allylic ether of an alcohol from the sugar series, such as for example the products sold under the names CARBOPOL 980, 981, 954, 2984 and 5984 by the company NOVEON or the products sold under the names SYNTHALEN M and SYNTHALEN K by the company 3 VS A. These polymers are also called carbomers.
[0076] Preferably, an at least partially neutralized acrylic acid homopolymer is used. The homopolymer used according to the invention is in particular chosen from among the Sodium polyacrylates and potassium polyacrylates. Sodium polyacrylate is preferred.
[0077] Examples of these acrylic polymers that are already neutralized before their implementation include:
[0078] - sodium polyacrylates such as those marketed under the name Cosmedia SP® containing 90% dry matter and 10% water, or Cosmedia SPL® in reverse emulsion containing approximately 60% dry active matter, an oil (hydrogenated polydecene) and a surfactant (PPG-5 Laureth-5), both sold by the company Cognis;
[0079] - partially neutralized sodium polyacrylates, in particular those found under form of an inverse emulsion comprising at least one polar oil, for example that sold under the name Luvigel® EM by BASF; and
[0080] - their mixtures.
[0081] Alternatively, an unneutralized acrylic acid polymer can be used, which is then partially or totally neutralized before processing by any suitable means, in particular by adding any base such as sodium hydroxide, potassium hydroxide, or an alkanolamine such as triethanolamine. Sodium polyacrylates are obtained in this way, in particular. Potassium polyacrylates are also suitable for the present invention.
[0082] Among the crosslinked copolymers of (meth)acrylic acid and C1-C6 alkyl acrylate, one can cite the product sold under the name VISCOATEX 538C by COATEX, which is a crosslinked copolymer of (meth)acrylic acid and C1-C4 ethyl acrylate in aqueous dispersion with 38% active ingredient, or the product sold under the name ACULYN 33 by ROHM & HAAS, which is a crosslinked copolymer of acrylic acid and ethyl acrylate in aqueous dispersion with 28% active ingredient. One can cite more specifically the crosslinked metha-acrylic acid / ethyl acrylate copolymer in aqueous dispersion with 30% active ingredient manufactured and sold under the name CARBOPOL AQUA SF-1 by NOVEON.
[0083] Homopolymers of 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid (AMPS®, Lubrizol monomer) or their salts may be crosslinked or not. Such a homopolymer may have a number-average molecular weight ranging from 1,000 to 20,000,000 g / mol, preferably from 20,000 to 5,000,000 and even more preferably from 100,000 to 1,500,000 g / mol.
[0084] More specifically, 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid and its partially or totally neutralized forms are used.
[0085] When polymers are crosslinked, the crosslinking agents can be chosen from among the olefinic polyunsaturates commonly used for crosslinking polymers obtained by radical polymerization. Examples include Examples of crosslinking agents include divinylbenzene, diallyl ether, dipropylene glycol diallylether, polyglycol diallylethers, triethylene glycol divinylether, hydroquinone diallyl ether, di(meth)acrylate of ethylene glycol or tetraethylene glycol, trimethylol propane triacrylate, methylene bisacrylamide, methylene bismethacrylamide, triallylamine, triallylcyanurate, diallylmaleate, tetraallylethylenediamine, tetraallyloxyethane, trimethylolpropane diallylether, allyl (meth)acrylate, allylic ethers of sugar alcohols, or other allyl- or vinyl-ethers of polyfunctional alcohols, as well as allylic esters of phosphoric acid derivatives. and / or vinylphosphonic, or mixtures of these compounds.
[0086] According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the crosslinking agent is selected from methylene-bis-acrylamide, allyl methacrylate, or trimethylol propane triacrylate (TMPTA). The degree of crosslinking generally ranges from 0.01 to 10% by mol and more particularly from 0.2 to 2% by mol relative to the polymer.
[0087] The homopolymer comprises only monomers with a sulfonic group and, if it is crosslinked, one or more crosslinking agents.
[0088] Preferred 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid homopolymers are generally characterized by the fact that they comprise, randomly distributed:
[0089] a) from 90 to 99.9% by weight of motifs of the following general formula:
[0090] [Chem.l]
[0091] in which X+ designates a proton, an alkali metal cation, an alkaline earth cation or the ammonium ion, at most 10 mol% of the X+ cations being H+ protons;
[0092] and crosslinking motifs from at least one monomer having at least two olefinic double bonds, the weight proportions being defined in relation to the total weight of the polymer.
[0093] The homopolymers according to the invention most particularly preferred comprise 98 to 99.5% by weight of motifs of formula (I) above and 0.2 to 2% by weight of crosslinking motifs.
[0094] Examples of polymers of this type include, in particular, cross-linked homopolymer and neutralized from 2-acrylamido 2-methylpropane sulfonic acid, marketed by Clariant under the trade name "Hostacerin AMPS®" (INCI name: Ammonium Polyacryldimethyltauramide).
[0095] The polymer may also be an amphiphilic homopolymer (or hydrophobic modified homopolymer) selected from statistical amphiphilic polymers of 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid modified by reaction with an n-monoalkylamine or a di-n-alkylamine at C6-C22, such as those described in document WO-A-00 / 31154, which are grafted homopolymers.
[0096] Copolymers of acrylamido-2-methylpropane sulfonic acid or its salts and one or more non-ionic monomers may be crosslinked or non-crosslinked.
[0097] When polymers are crosslinked, the crosslinking agents can be chosen from among the olefinic polyunsaturates commonly used for crosslinking polymers obtained by radical polymerization. Such agents are described above.
[0098] According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the crosslinking agent is selected from methylene-bis-acrylamide, allyl methacrylate, or trimethylol propane triacrylate (TMPTA). The degree of crosslinking generally ranges from 0.01 to 10% by mol and more particularly from 0.2 to 2% by mol relative to the polymer.
[0099] The copolymers according to the invention are obtained from AMPS® (Lubrizol monomer) and one or more hydrophilic or hydrophobic non-ionic monomers with ethylenic unsaturation and, if they are crosslinked, one or more crosslinking agents such as those defined above.
[0100] The 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropane sulfonic acid monomer of the copolymer contained in the composition according to the invention is in free form or is partially or totally neutralized by a mineral base (sodium hydroxide, potassium hydroxide, ammonia) or an organic base such as mono-, di-, or tri-ethanolamine, an ami-nomethylpropanediol, N-methylglucamine, basic amino acids such as arginine and lysine, as well as mixtures of these compounds.
[0101] Preferably, the 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropane sulfonic acid monomer is partially or totally salted as an ammonium or sodium salt.
[0102] Preferably, the 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropane sulfonic acid monomer is totally salted, preferably in the form of an ammonium or sodium salt.
[0103] The copolymers of AMPS® (Lubrizol monomer) contain one or more non-ionic monomers selected from water-soluble ethylenic unsaturation monomers, hydrophobic monomers, or mixtures thereof.
[0104] Among the non-ionic water-soluble monomers, examples include:
[0105] - (meth)acrylamide,
[0106] - N-vinylacetamide and N-methyl N-vinylacetamide,
[0107] - N-vinylformamide and N-methyl N-vinylformamide,
[0108] - maleic anhydride,
[0109] - vinylamine,
[0110] - N-vinyllactams comprising a cyclic alkyl group having from 4 to 9 atoms of carbon, such as N-vinylpyrrolidone, N-butyrolactam and N-vinylcaprolactam,
[0111] - vinyl alcohol of formula CH2=CHOH,
[0112] - water-soluble vinyl monomers of the following formula (2):
[0113] [Chem.2] HL-™ CR. VJ* ï (2 )
[0114] in which:
[0115] - R45 is selected from H, -CH3, -C2H5 or -C3H7
[0116] - X2 is chosen from alkyl oxides of the type -ORi6 where R[6 is a hy radical drocarbon, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, having from 1 to 6 carbons, possibly substituted by a halogen atom (iodine, bromine, chlorine, fluorine); a hydroxyl group (-OH); ether.
[0117] Examples include glycidyl (meth)acrylate, hydroxyethyl (meth)acrylate, and ethylene glycol, diethylene glycol or polyalkylene glycol (meth)acrylates.
[0118] Preferably the water-soluble monomer is chosen from acrylamide, vinylpyrrolidone, hydroxyalkyl(meth)acrylates, more particularly vinylpyrrolidone.
[0119] Examples of copolymers of AMPS® (Lubrizol monomer) according to the invention with hydrophilic monomers include:
[0120] - copolymers of acrylamido-2-methylpropane sulfonic acid and vinylpyr rolidone such as in particular the commercial product ARISTOFLEX AVC sold by CLARIANT;
[0121] - crosslinked acrylamide / acrylamido-2-methyl propane sulfonate copolymers sodium, such as that used in the commercial product SEPIGEL 305® (INCI name: Polyacrylamide / Ci3-Ci4 Isoparaffin / Laureth-7) or that used in the commercial product sold under the name SIMULGEL 600® (INCI name: Acrylamide / Sodium Acryloyldimethyltaurate / Isohexadecane / Polysorbate-80) by the company SEPPIC;
[0122] - copolymers of AMPS® (Lubrizol monomer) and hydroxyethyl acrylate, such as the AMPS® sodium / hydroxyethyl acrylate copolymer, like that used in the commercial product sold under the name SIMULGEL NS® by the company SEPPIC or under the name SEPINOV EMT10 by the company SEPPIC;
[0123] - hydrophobically modified AMPS® copolymers such as the copolymer known under the INCI name: AMMONIUM ACRYLOYLDIMETHYLTAURATE / STEARETH-25 METHACRYLATE CROSSPOLYMER sold under the trade name ARISTOFLEX HMS by the company CLARIANT.
[0124] Preferably, the thickening polymer is the AMPS® sodium / hydroxyethyl acrylate copolymer.
[0125] The concentration of thickening polymer (i.e. active material) generally ranges from 0.05 to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, and preferably from 0.1 to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.2 to 1% by weight.
[0126] The compositions according to the invention may be in the form of a gel, or in the form of an emulsion, in particular an oil-in-water emulsion.
[0127] When the composition according to the invention is in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion, it comprises an oily phase dispersed in an aqueous phase. Oily phase
[0128] The term "oil phase" refers, according to the invention, to a liquid phase at 20-25°C and at a pressure of 1.01325 10⁵ Pa. Such an "oil phase" generally comprises at least one oil. The term "oil" refers to any fat that is in liquid form at ambient temperature (20 to 25°C) and atmospheric pressure (760 mm Hg).
[0129] Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises an oily phase. Preferably, the composition according to the invention is an oil-in-water emulsion.
[0130] The quantity of oil phase can range for example from 1 to 50% by weight, preferably from 3 to 45% by weight, preferably from 5% to 40% by weight relative to the total weight of composition.
[0131] The oily phase may comprise at least one oil, in particular a cosmetic oil. It may also contain other fatty substances.
[0132] Examples of oils that can be used in the composition of the invention include:
[0133] - hydrocarbon oils of animal origin, such as perhydrosqualene;
[0134] - vegetable hydrocarbon oils, such as liquid triglycerides of fatty acids containing 4 to 10 carbon atoms such as the triglycerides of heptanoic or octanoic acid or, for example, sunflower, corn, soybean, pumpkin, grapeseed, sesame, hazelnut, apricot, macadamia, arara, sunflower, castor, avocado oils, the triglycerides of caprylic / capric acid such as those sold by the company Stearineries Dubois or those sold under the names Miglyol 810, 812 and 818 by the company Dynamit Nobel, coco-caprylate / caprate (esterified oil derived from coconut oil), jojoba oil, shea butter oil;
[0135] - synthetic esters and ethers, particularly of fatty acids, such as oils of formulas R1COOR2 and R1OR2 in which RI represents the remainder of a fatty acid comprising 8 to 29 carbon atoms, and R2 represents a hydrocarbon chain, branched or unbranched, containing 3 to 30 carbon atoms, such as Purcellin oil, isononyl isononanoate, isopropyl myristate, ethyl-2-hexyl palmitate, octyl-2-dodecyl stearate, octyl-2-dodecyl erucate, isostearyl isostearate; hydroxylated esters such as isostearyl lactate, octylhydroxystearate, octyldodecyl hydroxystearate, diisostearylmalate, triisocetyl citrate, heptanoates, octanoates, decanoates of fatty alcohols; polyol esters, such as propylene glycol dioctanoate, neopentylglycol diheptanoate and diethylene glycol diisononanoate; and pentaerythritol esters such as pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate or dipentaerythrityl pentaisononanoate;
[0136] - linear or branched hydrocarbons, of mineral or synthetic origin, such as paraffin oils, volatile or not, and their derivatives, branched chain hydrocarbon oils containing 10 to 20 carbon atoms such as isohexadecane, isododecane, isoparaffins and their mixtures, petroleum jelly, polydecenes, polyisobutenes, hydrogenated polyisobutenes such as, for example, Parleam® marketed by NIPPON OIL FATS, PANALANE H-300 E marketed by AMOCO, VISEAL 20000 marketed by SYNTEAL, REWOPAL PIB 1000 marketed by WITCO, or PARLEAM LITE marketed by NOF Corporation;
[0137] - partially hydrocarbon and / or silicone fluorinated oils such as those described in document JP-A-2-295912;
[0138] - silicone oils such as volatile or non-volatile polymethylsiloxanes (PDMS) linear or cyclic silicone chain, liquid or paste at room temperature, in particular cyclopolydimethylsiloxanes (cyclomethicones) such as cyclohexa-siloxane; polydimethylsiloxanes having alkyl, alkoxy or phenyl groups, pendant or at the end of the silicone chain, groups having from 2 to 24 carbon atoms; phenyl silicones such as phenyltrimethicones, phenyldimethicones, phenyltrimethylsiloxydiphenyl-siloxanes, diphenyl-dimethicones, diphenylmethyldiphenyl trisiloxanes, 2-phenylethyltrimethyl-siloxysilicates, and polymethylphenylsiloxanes; or
[0139] - mixtures thereof.
[0140] As indicated above, the composition according to the invention may include, in the oily phase, other ingredient(s). These additional ingredients may be chosen from among other fatty substances such as waxes, lipophilic polymers such as semi-crystalline polymers and their mixtures.
[0141] According to a particular embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one semi-crystalline polymer.
[0142] Among semi-crystalline polymers, examples include polymers with a functionalized crystalline side chain (FSCC) and polymers with a crystalline side chain (SCC). Examples of such polymers include poly C10-30 alkyl acrylate (TEGO SP 13-1 or TEGO SP 13-6), Behenyl Acrylate / Hydroxyethylacrylate copolymers, and Stearyl Acrylate / Hydroxyethylacrylate copolymers.
[0143] According to a particular embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one lipophilic polymer comprising monomeric units of formula (A) and (B):
[0144] [Chem.3]
[0145] in which:
[0146] Ri, independently of each other, are chosen from among the alkyl or alkenyl radicals;
[0147] with at least 60% by weight of the Ri groups are radicals chosen from among the stearyl and behenyl radicals, the percentage by weight relating to the sum of all the Ri groups present in the polymer;
[0148] the weight ratio of the sum of all hydroxyethyl acrylate units to the sum of all acrylate units bearing the Ri group ranges from 1:30 to 1:1; and
[0149] the sum of the total units A and B is at least 95% by weight of the total weight of the polymer.
[0150] Preferably, Ri consists of alkyl radicals, preferably C16-C22 alkyl radicals, and more preferably stearyl radicals (in Cl8) or behenyl radicals (in C22).
[0151] Preferably, at least 70% by weight of the Ri groups are stearyl or behenyl radicals, preferably at least 80% by weight, and more preferably at less 90% by weight.
[0152] According to a preferred embodiment, all Ri groups are behenyl radicals.
[0153] According to another preferred embodiment, all Ri groups are stearyl radicals.
[0154] Preferably, said weight ratio goes from 1:15 to 1:1, preferably goes from 1:10 to 1:4.
[0155] Advantageously, the polymeric units present in the polymer consist of the units (A) and (B) described previously.
[0156] The polymer has a number-average molecular weight Mn ranging from 2,000 to 9,000 g / mol, preferably ranging from 5,000 to 9,000 g / mol. The number-average molecular weight can be measured using gel permeation chromatography, for example according to the method described in the example below.
[0157] Preferably, the polymer has a melting temperature ranging from 40 °C to 70 °C, and preferably from 45 °C to 67 °C. The melting temperature is measured by differential scanning calorimetry (DSC), for example according to the method described in the example below.
[0158] According to a first embodiment, when the polymer is such that at least 60% by weight of the RI groups are stearyl radicals, then the polymer generally has a melting point ranging from 40 to 60 °C, and preferably ranging from 45 to 55 °C.
[0159] According to a second embodiment, when the polymer is such that at least 60% by weight of the RI groups are behenyl radicals, then the polymer generally has a melting point ranging from 60 to 70 °C, and preferably ranging from 63 to 67 °C.
[0160] The polymer used according to the invention can be prepared by polymerization of monomer of formula CH2=CH-COO-Ri, Ri having the meaning described above, and 2-hydroxyethyl acrylate.
[0161] Polymerization can be carried out according to known methods, such as solution polymerization or emulsion polymerization.
[0162] Polymerization is described for example in US document 2007 / 0264204.
[0163] The lipophilic polymer(s) used in the context of the invention and as described above may be present in the composition in an amount of active material ranging from 0.05 to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.1% to 5% by weight, and better from 0.2 to 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Surfactants
[0164] The composition according to the invention may include at least one surfactant, preferably chosen from non-ionic surfactants.
[0165] Preferably, the surfactant is chosen from polyethoxylated fatty alcohols. The fatty alcohol is preferably a Ci6-C22 fatty alcohol comprising 2 to 100 oxide units ethylene. The fatty chain of the alcohol may be chosen from the stearyl, behenyl, arachidyl, palmityl, cetyl motifs and their mixtures, such as cetearyl, and preferably a stearyl chain.
[0166] The number of ethylene oxide units can range from 2 to 50, preferably from 2 to 30, and better from 2 to 25.
[0167] Preferably, the surfactant is selected from stearyl alcohol comprising 2 units of ethylene oxide (steareth-2), stearyl alcohol comprising 20 units of ethylene oxide (steareth-20) and mixtures thereof.
[0168] Preferably, the composition comprises a mixture of steareth-2 and steareth-20.
[0169] The surfactant(s) may be present in the composition according to the invention in a total content ranging from 0.1% to 7% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, and preferably ranging from 0.5% to 5% by weight, and preferably ranging from 1% to 4% by weight. Photostabilizer
[0170] The composition according to the invention may include at least one photostabilizer.
[0171] The term “photostabilizer” refers to an organic compound that prevents UV filters from undergoing degradation processes under UV radiation or destabilization due to the presence of other compounds, which may be, for example, other UV filters. The photostabilizer protects the UV filter either by structural or geometric means, or by dissipating the energy of the UV filter in order to reduce the possibility of destabilization.
[0172] Preferably, the photostabilizer is selected from butyloctyl salicylate, benzo-triazolyl dodecyl p-cresol, ethylhexyl methoxycrylene, polyester-8, diethylhexyl syringylidenemalonate, trimethoxybenzylidene pentanedione, diethylhexyl 2,6-naphthalate, polyester-25 and mixtures thereof.
[0173] Butyloctyl salicylate is a synthetic ester of salicylic acid and 2-butyloctanol. It is marketed, in particular, under the name HallBrite BHB® by Hallstar.
[0174] Benzotriazolyl dodecyl p-cresol is marketed by BASF under the name Tinogard® TL.
[0175] Ethylhexyl methoxycrylene is marketed by Hallstar under the name SolaStay® SL
[0176] Polyester-8 is a copolymer of adipic acid and neopentyl glycol terminated with cyanodiphenyl propenoic acid having a molecular weight of approximately 1900 daltons. It is notably marketed under the name Polycrylene® by Hallstar.
[0177] Diethylhexyl syringylidenemalonate is a stabilizer for light-sensitive ingredients. Its formula is:
[0178] [Chem.4]
[0179] It is notably marketed by Merck KGaA under the name Oxynex® ST Liquid.
[0180] Trimethoxybenzylidene pentanedione is marketed under the name Synoxyl HSS by Sytheon.
[0181] Diethylhexyl 2,6-naphthalate is a photostabilizer and emollient. It is marketed by Symrise under the name Corapan TQ.
[0182] Polyester-25 is a bis-methoxycrylene / octyldodecyl adipic acid / methylpropanediol copolymer. It is marketed by Hallstar under the name SolaStay® PL
[0183] Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises a mixture of photostabilizers, preferably a mixture of ethylhexyl methoxycrylene and diethylhexyl syringylidenemalonate, optionally with butyl salicylate.
[0184] The quantity of photostabilizer(s) can range for example from 0.5 to 15% by weight, preferably from 1 to 10% by weight, preferably from 1.3% to 6% by weight relative to the total weight of composition.
[0185] According to a particular embodiment, the composition according to the invention further comprises cosmetically acceptable active ingredients and / or excipients, such as preservatives, sequestrants, acids and / or bases.
[0186] By "cosmetically acceptable" is meant compatible with the skin and / or its appendages, which has a pleasant color, smell and feel and which does not generate unacceptable discomforts (tingling, tightness, redness), likely to deter the consumer from using this composition.
[0187] Among the preferred sequestrants, we can mention the salts of ethylenediaminedisuccinic acid.
[0188] Ethylenediaminedisuccinic acid is a compound with the following formula:
[0189] [Chem.5] H HO" "O Y LJ % AA N" 'OH H
[0190] Preferably, the salt of ethylenediaminedisuccinic acid is chosen from alkali metal salts, such as potassium and sodium salts, ammonium salts, and amine salts. Alkali metal salts of ethylenediaminedisuccinic acid are particularly preferred.
[0191] Preferably, the salt of ethylenediaminedisuccinic acid used according to the invention is trisodium ethylenediaminedisuccinate.
[0192] Such a compound is, for example, that marketed under the name Na-trlquest® E30 by the company Innospec Active Chemicals, or that marketed under the name Octaquest E30® by the company Octel Performance Chemicals.
[0193] Finally, the present invention also relates to a non-therapeutic cosmetic treatment method for keratinous materials, preferably skin, comprising applying a composition according to the invention to said keratinous materials. Such a method is particularly intended to protect keratinous materials, and especially skin, from UV radiation.
[0194] Concrete, but by no means limiting, examples illustrating the invention will now be given.
[0195] In the examples, the temperature is ambient temperature (20°C) and expressed in degrees Celsius unless otherwise stated, and the pressure is atmospheric pressure unless otherwise stated.
[0196] In the examples, the quantities of the ingredients of the compositions are given as % by weight relative to the total weight of the composition (% w / w). Examples:
[0197] A / Examples of synthesis of lipophilic polymers comprising monomeric units of formula fA) and fB) according to the invention
[0198] Determination of molecular weight by gel permeation chromatography (GPC):
[0199] The sample is prepared by dissolving the polymer at 10 mg / ml in tetrahydrofuran. The sample is placed in an oven at 54 °C for 10 minutes and then in an oscillating shaker for 60 minutes to aid dissolution. Upon visual inspection, the sample appears to be completely dissolved in the solvent.
[0200] The prepared sample was analyzed using two 300 x 7.5 mm polypore columns (manufactured by Agilent Technologies), a Waters 2695 chromatographic system, a tetrahydrofuran mobile phase and refractive index detection. The sample was filtered through a 0.45 µm nylon filter before being injected into the liquid chromatograph. The calibration standards used were the Easi Vial narrow polystyrene (PS) standards from Agilent Technologies.
[0201] Polystyrene standards ranging from 2,520,000 to 162 Daltons have been used for calibration.
[0202] The system is equipped with a PSS SECcurity 1260 RI detector. The polystyrene calibration curve was used to determine the average molecular weight. Recording of the diagrams and determination of the different molecular weights was performed using the Win GPC Unichrom 81 program.
[0203] Determination of melting point by differential scanning calorimetry (or DSC)
[0204] This method describes the general procedure for determining the melting point of polymers by differential scanning calorimetry. This method is based on ASTM E791 and ASTM D 34182, and the DSC calibration is performed according to ASTM E 9672.
[0205] Behenyl acrylate / 2-hydroxyethyl acrylate copolymer (Polymer 1):
[0206] In a 4-necked flask equipped with a side-blade stirrer, an internal thermometer, two funnels, a reflux condenser, and an extension for two additional necks, 175 g of behenyl acrylate, 25 g of 2-hydroxyethyl acrylate, and 0.4 g of 2,2'-azobis(2-methylbutyronitrile) (Akzo Nobel) were added to 40 g of isopropanol for 60 minutes at 80 °C, with stirring after removing oxygen from the system by purging with nitrogen for 20 minutes. The mixture was stirred at 80 °C for 3 hours. The solvent was then removed by vacuum distillation, and 1 g of dilauryl peroxide was added, and the reaction was continued for 60 minutes at 110 °C. This step was repeated. The mixture was then cooled to 90 °C and A jet of demineralized water was added and then the mixture was shaken. The water was removed by vacuum distillation.
[0207] Molecular weight: Mn = 7300 g / mol, Mw = 21000, Mw / Mn = 2.8.
[0208] Melting point: 65 °C.
[0209] Stearvle acrylate / 2-hvdroxvéthvle acrylate copolymer (Polymer 2):
[0210] In a 4-necked flask equipped with a side-blade stirrer, an internal thermometer, two funnels, a reflux condenser, and an extension for two additional necks, 155 g of behenyl acrylate, 45 g of 2-hydroxyethyl acrylate, and 0.4 g of 2,2'-azobis(2-methylbutyronitrile) (Akzo Nobel) were added to 50 g of isopropanol over 90 minutes at 80 °C, with stirring after removing oxygen from the system by purging with nitrogen for 20 minutes. The mixture was stirred at 80 °C for 3 hours. The solvent was then removed by vacuum distillation, and 1 g of dilauryl peroxide was added. The reaction was then carried out for 60 minutes at 125 °C. This step was repeated. The mixture was then cooled to 90 °C and A jet of demineralized water was added and then the mixture was shaken. The water was removed by vacuum distillation.
[0211] Molecular weight: Mn = 7500 g / mol, Mw = 19000, Mw / Mn = 2.6.
[0212] Melting point: 49 °C. B / Examples of formulations
[0213] Example 1: Measurement of SPF and UVAPF of comparative compositions and according to the invention
[0214] The comparative compositions Cl and C2, and according to the invention Fl, were prepared by the protocol below:
[0215] Heat the oil phase B1 to 80°C. Add phase B2 (ZnO) and let it homogenize for 20 min under rotor stator, then maintain at 65°C; phase B is obtained.
[0216] Place the aqueous phase A1 in the manufacturing vessel while stirring, and heat to 65°C. Add phase A2; the mixture should have thickened in viscosity; phase A is obtained.
[0217] Emulsify under stirring at 65°C for 10 minutes, with the addition of phase B to phase A. Cool to 35°C / 40°C under stirring.
[0218] [Tables 1] Ingredients Cl (% w / w) C2 (% w / w) Fl (% w / w) Water Phase Qsp 100 Qsp 100 Qsp 100 Al TRISODIUM ETHYLENEDIAMINE DL SUCCINATE (as 30% aqueous solution) (Natrlquest E30 from Innospec Performance Chemicals) 0.15 0.15 0.15 Al PROPANEDIOL 3 3 3 Al GLYCERIN 7 7 7 Al Xanthan Gum 0.2 0.2 0.2 A2 HYDROXYETHYL ACRYLATE / SODIUM ACRYLOYLDIMETHYL TAURATE COPOLYMER 0.3 (0.26% w / w) 0.3 (0.26% w / w) 0.3 (0.26% w / w) A2 BIS-ETHYLHEXYLOXYPHENOL ME-THOXYPHENYL TRIAZINE (BEMT, Tinosorb S (BASF) 6 - 6 B1 DIETHYLHEXYL SYRINGYLIDENE-MALONATE 0.5 0.5 0.5 B1 ETHYLHEXYL METHOXYCRYLENE (SolaStay S1 (Hallstar)) 1 1 1 B1 BUTYLOCTYL SALICYLATE 3 3 3 B1 COCO-CAPRYLATE / CAPRATE 21.62 23 17 B1 Dispersing agent(s) 0.5 0.5 0.5 B1 Wax 1 1 1 B1 C12-22ALKYL ACRYLATE / HYDROXYETHYLACRYLATE COPOLYMER Polymer 1 of the synthesis examples A / above 1.5 1.5 1.5 B1 (co-)Preservatives Qs Qs Qs STEARETH-2 0.5 0.5 0.5 B1 STEARETH-20 1.5 1.5 1.5 B1 Zinc oxide (ZnO) coated with hydrated silica and silicones (Tayca MZ-510 HPSX) - 9.23 (7% by weight) 9.23 (7% by weight) B2
[0219] ma: active ingredient Protocol for evaluating filtering efficiency
[0220] In-vitro: The sun protection factor (SPF) is determined according to the "in-vitro" method vitro » described by M. Pissavini et al in International Journal of Cosmetic Science, 40, 263-268 (2018), based on initial absorbance.
[0221] The in vitro UVA protection factor (UVAPF) of a sun protection product against UVA radiation is calculated mathematically by in vitro spectral modelling according to the ISO 24443:2012 (Fr) protocol.
[0222] Each composition is applied to six rough PMMA plates as a homogeneous and regular deposit at a rate of 1 mg / cm². The spreading of each composition is carried out using an automated robot that makes regular and uniform movements on three HD6 plates (molded granular plates) and three SB6 plates (sandblasted granular plates). The plate is weighed before and after spreading. Once the six plates are spread, they are placed in Thermo-Master chambers in the dark at 25°C for 30 minutes. Measurements are performed using the Labsphère UV-1000S spectrophotometer. Nine measurements per plate are taken and then analyzed using an Excel spreadsheet, which provides the SPF and UVAPF values of the measured composition.
[0223] The results are as follows:
[0224] [Tables2] Formula Cl C2 Fl SPF Theoretical sum of C1+C2 Filtering system 6% BEMT 7% ZnO 6% BEMT 7% ZnO SPF in vitro 43 8.7 69.8 51.7 UVAPF 18.9 4.2 27.4 23.1 Critical wavelength (nm) 371 369 372
[0225] The combination of ZnO and BEMT produces a synergistic effect resulting in an unexpected efficiency that is higher than that predicted by the sum of the efficiency of each filter taken individually: the SPF and UVAPF are higher than the value expected in view of the intrinsic efficiency of each filter.
[0226] Example 2: Measurement of the dose-effect of comparative compositions and according to the invention
[0227] The comparative compositions Al* to A5* below were prepared as described in Example 1.
[0228] [Tables3] Ingredients Al* A2* A3* A4* A5* Water Phase Qsp 100 Qsp 100 Qsp 100 Qsp 100 Qsp 100 Al TRISODIUM ETHYLENEDIAMINE DISUCCINATE (30% aqueous solution) (Natrlquest E30 from Innospec Performance Chemicals) 0.15 0.15 0.15 0.15 0.15 Al PROPANEDIOL 3 3 3 3 3 Al GLYCERIN 3 3 3 3 3 Al Xanthan Gum 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2 A2 HYDROXYETHYL ACRYLATE / SODIUM ACRYLOYL-DIMETHYL TAURATE COPOLYMER 0.3 (0.26% by mass) 0.3 (0.26% by mass) 0.3 (0.26% by mass) ma) 0.3 (0.26% in mai) 0.3 (0.26% in mai) A2 BIS-ETHYLHEXYLOXYPHENO L METHOXYPHENYL TRIAZINE (BEMT, Tinosorb S from BASF) 6 - - - - B1 DIETHYLHEXYL SYRINGYLL DENEMALONATE 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 B1 ETHYLHEXYL ME-THOXYCRYLENE (SolaStay S1 from Hallstar) 1 1 1 1 1 B1 COCO-CAPRYLATE / CAPRATE 23.59 27 26 24.25 23.04 B1 Polyhydroxy stearic acid 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.75 0.9 B1 Wax 1 1 1 1 1 B1 C12-22ALKYL ACRYLATE / HYDROXYETHYLACRYLATE COPOLYMER Polymer 1 of the synthesis examples A / above 1.5 1.5 1.5 1.5 1.5 B1 Preservatives Qs Qs Qs Qs Qs STEARETH-2 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 B1 STEARETH-20 1.5 1.5 1.5 1.5 1.5 B1 Triethoxy-caprylylsilane coated zinc oxide Z-COTE HP1 (BASF) - 5.13 (5% by mass) 7.18 (7% by mass) 10.25 (10% by mass) 12.31 (12% by mass) B2 Citric acid Qs Qs Qs Qs Qs
[0229] The dose-effect of these compositions is measured; the results are as follows:
[0230] [Tables4] Formula Al* A2* A3* A4* A5* SPI / n vitro 31.9 6.2 9 12.6 15.7 Critical wavelength (nm) 371 375 376 376 376 UVAPF 15.8 5.3 7.6 10.4 12.5
[0231] Compositions B1 to B4 according to the invention below were prepared as described in Example 1.
[0232] [Tables5] Ingredients B1 B2 B3 B4 Water Phase Qsp 100 Qsp 100 Qsp 100 Qsp 100 Al TRISODIUM ETHYLENEDIAMINE DISUCCINATE (30% aqueous solution) (Natrlquest E30 from Innospec Performance Chemicals) 0.15 0.15 0.15 0.15 Al PROPANEDIOL 3 3 3 3 Al GLYCERIN 3 3 3 3 Al Xanthan Gum 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2 A2 HYDROXYETHYL ACRYLATE / SODIUM ACRYLOYLDIMETHYL TAURATE COPOLYMER 0.3 (0.26% by weight) 0.3 (0.26% by weight) 0.3 (0.26% by weight) 0.3 (0.26% by weight) A2 BIS-ETHYLHEXYLOXYPHENOL METHOXYPHENYL TRIAZINE (BEMT, BASF's Tinosorb S) 6 6 6 6 B1 DIETHYLHEXYL SYRINGYLIDENE MALONATE 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 B1 ETHYLHEXYL METHOXYCRYLENE (Hallstar's SolaStay S1) 1 1 1 1 B1 COCO-CAPRYLATE / CAPRATE 21 20 18.25 17.04 B1 Polyhydroxystearic acid 0.5 0.5 0.75 0.9 B1 Wax 1 1 1 1 B1 C12-22ALKYL ACRYLATE / HYDROXYETHYLACRYLATE COPOLYMER Polymer 1 of the synthesis examples A / above 1.5 1.5 1.5 1.5 B1 Preservatives Qs Qs Qs Qs STEARETH-2 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 B1 STEARETH-20 1.5 1.5 1.5 1.5 B1 Triethoxycaprylylsilane-coated zinc oxide Z-COTE HP1 (BASF) 5.13 (5% by weight) 7.18 (7% by weight) 10.25 (10% by weight) 12.31 (12% by weight) B2 Citric acid Qs Qs Qs Qs
[0233] The dose-effect of these compositions is measured; the results are as follows:
[0234] [Tableauxô] Formula B1 B2 B3 B4 SPF in vitro 65.5 71.5 72.6 81.2 SPF theoretical sum 38.1 (Al*+A2* 40.9 (Al*+A3* 44.5 (Al*+A4* 47.6 (Al*+A5* Critical wavelength (nm) UVAPF 31.3 35.3 37.3 42.1
[0235] The results show that synergy is verified for the different levels of zinc oxides tested.
Claims
Demands
1. Composition, preferably cosmetic, comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium: 4.5% to 10% by weight relative to the total composition weight of 2,4-bis-{[4-(2-ethylhexyloxy)-2-hydroxy]-phenyl}-6-(4-methoxyphenyl)-1,3,5-triazine (INCI Name: Bis-Ethylhexyloxyphenol Methoxyphenyl Triazine), and 5% to 25% by weight relative to the total composition weight of zinc oxide, the composition comprising less than 3% by weight relative to the total composition weight of other UV filter(s).
2. Composition according to claim 1, characterized in that it comprises less than 2% by weight, preferably less than 1% by weight relative to the total composition weight of other UV filter(s).
3. Composition according to claim 1 or 2, characterized in that it is totally free of other UV filter(s).
4. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it comprises from 5% to 9% by weight relative to the total weight of composition, preferably from 5.5% to 8% by weight, preferably from 5.7% to 7% by weight of 2,4-bis-{[4-(2-ethylhexyloxy)-2-hydroxy]-phenyl}-6-(4-methoxyphenyl)-1,3,5-triazine (INCI Name: Bis-Ethylhexyloxyphenol Methoxyphenyl Triazine).
5. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the zinc oxide is in the form of particles which may be coated or uncoated; preferably the coated pigments are pigments which have undergone one or more surface treatments of a chemical, electronic, mechanochemical and / or mechanical nature with compounds such as amino acids, beeswax, fatty acids, fatty alcohols, anionic surfactants, lecithins, sodium, potassium, zinc, iron or aluminum salts of fatty acids, metal alkoxides, polyethylene, silicones, hydrated silica, proteins, alkanolamines, silicon oxides, triethoxycaprylylsilane, metal oxides or sodium hexametaphosphate.
6. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the zinc oxide is selected from non-zinc oxide pigments coated, ZnO coated with polymethylhydrogensiloxane, ZnO dispersed in C12-15 alkyl benzonate, ZnO coated with silicone-grafted acrylic polymer and dispersed in cyclodimethyl-siloxane, ZnO coated with hydrated silica, ZnO coated with hydrated silica, triethoxysilylethyl polydimethylsiloxyethyl hexyl dimethicone and hydrogen dimethicone (H-Me-Si), ZnO coated with stearic acid or isostearic acid, ZnO coated with silicone oil and ZnO coated with triethoxycaprylylsilane.
7. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it comprises from 5% to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of composition, preferably from 5% to 15% by weight, preferably from 5% to 10% by weight of zinc oxide.
8. A composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it comprises an aqueous medium comprising at least water and optionally at least one other water-soluble organic solvent, at 25°C, selected from C1-C4 monoalkanols and polyols having in particular from 2 to 20 carbon atoms, preferably from 2 to 6 carbon atoms, such as glycerol, diglycerol, propylene glycol, isoprene glycol, dipropylene glycol, butylene glycol, hexylene glycol, 1,3-propanediol, pentylene glycol, simple sugars, water-soluble polyalkylene glycols and mixtures thereof; preferably, the composition comprises at least one polyol, preferably selected from glycerol, 1,3-propanediol and mixtures thereof.
9. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it is in the form of a gel, or in the form of an emulsion, in particular an oil-in-water emulsion, and comprises an oily phase dispersed in an aqueous phase.
10. Composition according to claim 9, characterized in that the oily phase comprises at least one oil selected from: - hydrocarbon oils of animal origin, such as perhydrosqualene; - hydrocarbon oils of vegetable origin, such as liquid triglycerides of fatty acids having 4 to 10 carbon atoms, such as triglycerides of heptanoic or octanoic acid, or, for example, sunflower, corn, soybean, pumpkin, grapeseed, sesame, hazelnut, apricot, macadamia, arara, castor, avocado oils, and triglycerides of caprylic / capric acid, coco-caprylate / caprate, jojoba oil, shea butter oil; - synthetic esters and ethers, particularly of fatty acids, such as oils with formulas R1COOR2 and R1OR2 in which RI represents the remainder of a fatty acid containing 8 to 29 carbon atoms, and R2 represents a hydrocarbon chain, branched or unbranched, containing 3 to 30 carbon atoms, such as Purcellin oil, isononyl isononanoate, isopropyl myristate, ethyl-2-hexyl palmitate, octyl-2-dodecyl stearate, octyl-2-dodecyl erucate, isostearyl isostearate; hydroxylated esters such as isostearyl lactate, octylhydroxystearate, octyldodecyl hydroxystearate, diisostearyl malate, triisocetyl citrate, heptanoates, octanoates, decanoates of fatty alcohols; polyol esters, such as propylene glycol dioctanoate, neopentylglycol diheptanoate and diethylene glycol diisononanoate;and pentaerythritol esters such as pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate or dipentaerythrityl pentaisononanoate; - linear or branched hydrocarbons, of mineral or synthetic origin, such as paraffin oils, volatile or not, and their derivatives, branched chain hydrocarbon oils containing 10 to 20 carbon atoms such as isohexadecane, isododecane, isoparaffins and their mixtures, petroleum jelly, polydecenes, polyisobutenes or hydrogenated polyisobutenes; - partially hydrocarbon and / or silicone-based fluorinated oils; - silicone oils such as volatile or non-volatile polymethylsiloxanes with linear or cyclic silicone chains, liquid or paste-like at room temperature, including cyclopolydimethylsiloxanes such as cyclohexasiloxane; polydimethylsiloxanes containing alkyl, alkoxy, or phenyl groups, either pendant or at the end of the silicone chain, with groups having from 2 to 24 carbon atoms; phenyl silicones such as phenyltrimethicones, phenyldimethicones, phenyltrimethylsiloxydiphenylsiloxanes, diphenyldimethicones, diphenylmethyldiphenyl trisiloxanes, 2-phenylethyltrimethylsiloxysilicates, and polymethylphenylsiloxanes; and - their mixtures.
11. Composition according to claim 9 or 10, characterized in that the oily phase comprises at least one other fat, preferably chosen from waxes, semi-crystalline polymers and their mixtures; preferably the semi-crystalline polymer is chosen from poly C10-30 alkyl acrylate, Behenyl Acrylate / Hydroxyethylacrylate copolymers and Stearyl Acrylate / Hydroxyethylacrylate copolymers.
12. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it comprises at least one photostabilizer, preferably selected from butyloctyl salicylate, benzotriazolyl dodecyl p-cresol, ethylhexyl methoxycrylene, polyester-8, diethylhexyl syringylide-nemalonate, trimethoxybenzylidene pentanedione, diethylhexyl 2,6-naphthalate, polyester-25 and mixtures thereof; preferably it comprises a mixture of photostabilizers, preferably a mixture of ethylhexyl methoxycrylene and diethylhexyl syringylidenemalonate, optionally with butyloctyl salicylate.
13. A non-therapeutic cosmetic treatment process for keratinous materials, preferably of the skin, comprising applying to said keratinous materials a composition according to one of the preceding claims.