COSMETIC COMPOSITION COMPRISING A UVA AND / OR UVB FILM FILM FORMING AGENT, A LIPOPHILIC FILM FORMING AGENT AND A HYDROPHILIC FILM FORMING AGENT
Patent Information
- Authority / Receiving Office
- FR · FR
- Patent Type
- Patents
- Current Assignee / Owner
- LABES DE BIOLOGIE VEGETALE YVES ROCHER
- Filing Date
- 2023-03-14
- Publication Date
- 2026-05-22
AI Technical Summary
Conventional sun protection compositions struggle to provide effective protection against both UVA and UVB rays while maintaining water resistance, often leading to environmental pollution due to the dilution of UV filters in water bodies.
A cosmetic composition combining a UVA and/or UVB filter with a lipophilic film-forming agent (diisostearoyl polyglyceryl 3 dimer dilinoleate) and a hydrophilic film-forming agent (polyurethane) to enhance water resistance and sun protection, using natural ingredients to minimize environmental impact.
The composition achieves significantly improved water resistance and sun protection, maintaining a high SPF even after immersion, with reduced environmental pollution by using natural ingredients.
Abstract
Description
Description Title of the invention: COSMETIC COMPOSITION COMPRISING A UVA AND / OR UVB FILTER, A LIPOPHILIC FILM-FORMING AGENT AND A HY- FILM-FORMING AGENT DROPHILIC
[0001] = The invention belongs to the field of cosmetics, in particular the protection of keratinous materials (skin and / or hair), preferably lips and / or skin (face and / or body), more particularly to that of compositions such as com- sun protection positions.
[0002] — The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition comprising at least minus one UVA and / or UVB filter, a lipophilic film-forming agent comprising dii- sostearoyl polyglyceryl 3 dimer dilinoleate and a hydrophilic film-forming agent comprising a polyurethane. The composition according to the invention is a composition sun protection cosmetics, and in particular an anti-UVA and / or anti- UVB. The composition according to the invention is in the form of a water-based emulsion. in-oil or oil-in-water. The invention also relates to the use of a com- combination of a lipophilic film-forming agent comprising diisostearoyl polyglyceryl 3 dimer dilinoleate and a hydrophilic film-forming agent comprising a polyurethane in a cosmetic sunscreen composition.
[0003] — The applicant is the creator of Plant Cosmetics and promotes a cosmetic natural since 1959, its research of raw materials and its expertise in for- mulation pushes her to innovate to create ever more natural formulas for sa- satisfy the consumer and create scientific value. In order to limit its impact on the environment, the applicant is carrying out an innovation process to substitute ingredients from non-renewable and non-easily biodegradable resources. Ccci represents a major challenge in certain cosmetic categories, because it is imperative to guarantee in parallel the safety, efficacy and sensoriality of the products with consumers. State of the art
[0004] — The sun protection compositions, preferably anti-UV A and / or anti-UVB, are known for many years.
[0005] — The effects of the sun depend above all on the phototype of the exposed subject which corresponds to their ability to tan. The weaker the phototype, the more the subject will be sensitive to the effects of the sun. Exposure to the sun causes visible effects in the short term term. The best known is actinic erythema, commonly known as sunburn. This phenomenon occurs mainly under the action of UVB rays and in a lesser extent due to UVA. The effects of UVB are characterized by a response in the form of erythema, the maximum intensity of which is between 6 and 24 hours after exposure. The erythema induced by UVA is still evident 48 to 72 hours after exposure. Immediate pigmentation of the skin is observed within minutes of the start of exposure and fades in the following hours. This reaction caused by UVA is followed by persistent pigmentation of the skin 2 to 24 hours after exposure. These two phenomena are caused by photo-oxidation of the melanins present in the epidermis without them being renewed. Tanning, to which the term delayed is added, only appears 48 to 72 hours after exposure and lasts for several weeks, fading slowly. It is induced by UVA and UVB rays, the skin's response is an increase in tyrosinase activity which renews melanins.These immediate reactions are the most well-known by the general public. Photoimmunosuppression reactions can also be observed after exposure to UV rays. This phenomenon is manifested in particular by a reappearance of herpes (1,2). Sun exposure also has chronic effects. Actinic aging of the skin has been observed, mainly caused by UVA rays. They penetrate deeper into the epidermis and produce reactive oxygen species (ROS) such as free radicals and peroxides. These ROS damage DNA, proteins, and cell membranes, and alter the elastin and collagen of the extracellular matrix. Clinical manifestations include actinic lentigines, large open comedones, loss of skin elasticity, and the appearance of wrinkles. However, the most feared risk is photocarcinogenesis. The causal link between intense exposure to UV rays and the development of the three main types of skin cancer: melanoma, basal cell carcinoma, and squamous cell carcinoma has been demonstrated.UVB rays can cause necrosis of epidermal cells, leading to a molecular disorder that is a precursor to skin cancer. UVA rays, through their production of radical species, also allow the emergence of cancer cells. It is now established that sunburn that occurs during childhood is a cause of skin cancer in adulthood (1,3). For these reasons, it is important to protect yourself from both UVA and UVB rays, and sunscreens are an effective protection against these harmful rays. But the massive use of sunscreen, especially in tourist areas, has a number of disadvantages, particularly for the environment. It is estimated that each year, between 6,000 and 14,000 tonnes of sun cream (around 50,000 bottles) are diluted in the waters of coral reef areas. and 80 million tourists visit coral reef bathing areas. One of the consequences of such activity is the participation in coral bleaching, which is more relevant than ever with the recent legislation that Hawaii has applied on this subject (4,5). Worldwide, over a total area of reefs and lagoons of 600,000 km² (280,000 km² of reefs), it is estimated that 20% of coral reefs have been irreparably destroyed or have little chance of recovery, that 25% are in a critical state, that 25% are threatened and that only 30% remain in a satisfactory state. Among the many pathologies affecting corals, coral bleaching is the one that is increasing most in frequency and severity. When the physicochemical environment of the coral varies: increase in seawater temperature, acidity or UV radiation, presence of pathogenic bacteria; it has been observed that the most common response to this type of stress is the expulsion of zooxanthellae. Corals that get their colors from the zooxanthellae that cover them then become white.This bleaching phenomenon is reversible as soon as the environmental conditions of the coral become less stressful, the zooxanthellae then take back their place. On the other hand, since they also provide 90% of the energy resources to the corals, if the stress effect and therefore the expulsion of the corals are prolonged, the corals end up dying. After these phenomena, we observe the depletion of other marine species forming the biodiversity surrounding the corals. In addition to this ecological impact, the revenues linked to the tourist industry also decrease, this loss is estimated at 90 billion dollars per year for Caribbean tourism (6). Studies have been conducted to investigate the impact that UV filters could have on the marine environment. These studies have shown that the effects of oxybenzone (benzophenone-3) have been particularly studied. It has been observed that an increase in oxybenzone concentration is associated with coral bleaching. The effect of sunscreen products has been studied in situ on corals in the Atlantic, Pacific, Indian Oceans and the Red Sea. Six organic sunscreens widely found in sunscreen preparations have also been tested on these same corals: butylmethoxydibenzoylmethane (avobenzone), 4-methylbenzylidene camphor, ethylhexylsalicylate, benzophenone-3 (oxybenzone), octocrylene and ethylhexylmethoxycinnamate (octinoxate). Here again, bleaching phenomena have been attributed to them (7,8). Organic UV filters are not the only culprits, and inorganic filters have also been shown to be not harmless. TiO2 and ZnO have been studied in their nano form and their toxicity on the development of phytoplankton has been proven (9). Political authorities have also taken up the issue. The Hawaii state government was the first, in July 2018, to legislate the ban on two sunscreens, benzophenone-3 and ethylhexylmethoxycynnamate, which will take effect on January 1, 2021. In France, in August 2018, the Secretary of State to the Minister of Ecological and Inclusive Transition announced the launch of an "Ocean Mission." During this mission, ANSES (French National Agency for Food, Environmental, and Occupational Health and Safety) will be responsible for carrying out "an inventory of the various chemical substances present in consumer products such as cosmetics, sunscreens, and detergents, which are particularly toxic to marine ecosystems and coral reefs" (10,11). Despite manufacturers' numerous claims to respect the marine environment, it remains difficult to find a composition that minimizes its impact on it. There is therefore a real need to provide a sunscreen composition that can limit or avoid the phenomena described above, that is to say a composition providing strong protection against UV rays and strong water resistance which means less, or even no, dilution in bathing water. Conventionally, a sunscreen composition is understood to mean a cosmetic product, most often in the form of an emulsion, intended to protect the user against UVA and / or UVB radiation by the addition of organic and / or inorganic UV filters, these being listed in the European Union in Annex VI of Regulation (EC) 1223 / 2009. Conventional sunscreen compositions have many advantages, such as, in particular, more or less high protection depending on the needs of use. However, they more rarely have water resistance which allows sun protection to be maintained in conditions where the keratin materials to be protected are likely to be wet and / or immersed, without a significant reduction in the effectiveness of the composition but also without the release of polluting chemicals (UV filters) into the environment.So despite certain advantages, classic cosmetic sun protection compositions still have certain constraints and are polluting. There is therefore still a difficulty in obtaining good protection against UVA and / or UVB rays while having sufficient resistance to water. There is therefore a need to propose new cosmetic sunscreen compositions that solve the problems observed in known compositions. In particular, there is a need to propose new cosmetic sunscreen compositions that provide suitable and optimized protection capacity, while having increased water resistance. Detailed description of the invention It is to the applicant's credit to propose a new composition comprising at least one UVA and / or UVB filter, a lipophilic film-forming agent comprising diisostearoyl polyglyceryl 3 dimer dilinoleate and a hydrophilic film-forming agent comprising a polyurethane and which, when incorporated into a cosmetic composition, gives it a suitable and optimized UVA and / or UVB protection property, in particular thanks to a water resistance much greater than that of a composition not comprising the combination of film-forming agents according to the invention, or comprising an alternative derived from non-renewable and non-easily biodegradable resources recognized by a person skilled in the art. The new composition according to the invention allows a significantly extended protection period compared to conventional compositions.The composition according to the invention can provide improved sun protection up to increasing the SPF by more than ten points compared to a composition comprising a synthetic alternative recognized by a person skilled in the art. The composition according to the invention makes it possible to obtain a sun protection product that is water-resistant and even very water-resistant according to the evaluation standards in force, compared to a composition comprising a synthetic alternative recognized by a person skilled in the art. The combination of film-forming agents according to the invention thus makes it possible to obtain a synergistic effect between the sun protection and water resistance properties of the composition, and thus makes it possible to adapt and optimize the sun protection depending on the use.The greater protection effectiveness, both in terms of SPF index and duration, also makes it possible to limit the quantity of UVA and / or UVB filters to be applied or to limit the need to reapply them to the skin after swimming. The cosmetic composition according to the invention is very versatile and can in particular be incorporated into any type of water-in-oil or oil-in-water emulsion, such as a cream, a milk, a spray, a cast emulsion and / or a colored emulsion such as a BB cream, a foundation. The invention thus relates to a cosmetic composition comprising: - at least one UVA and / or UVB filter, - a lipophilic film-forming agent comprising diisostearoyl polyglyceryl 3 dimer di-linoleate and - a hydrophilic film-forming agent comprising a polyurethane. Film-forming agents are chemical agents that do not penetrate the epidermis and leave a flexible, cohesive, continuous and homogeneous film on the surface of the skin or hair. They act on the surface by strengthening or replacing the hydrolipidic film and effectively slow the evaporation of water. There are agents so-called lipophilic film-formers, i.e. the ingredient is preferentially incorporated into the fatty phase during the preparation of the composition. There are so-called hydrophilic film-formers, i.e. the ingredient is preferentially incorporated into the aqueous phase during the preparation of the composition. The most common film-formers include vinylpyrrolidone / hexadecene copolymer, tri-acontanyl polyvinylpyrrolidone, vinylpyrrolidone / eicosene copolymer, acrylates / octylacrylamide copolymer, acrylates copolymer, styrene / acrylates copolymer and are mostly synthetic and persistent in the environment. These common film-formers do not have the characteristics required to obtain the dual technical effect according to the invention. Advantageously, in the cosmetic composition according to the invention, the mass concentration of diisostearoyl polyglyceryl 3 dimer dilinoleate may be within a range from 0.6 to 6%, by mass relative to the total mass of the composition. Preferably, the mass concentration of diisostearoyl polyglyceryl 3 dimer dilinoleate is within a range from 1.5% to 2.25%, by mass relative to the total mass of the composition. Diisostearoyl polyglyceryl 3 dimer dilinoleate is a compound obtained by a condensation reaction of isostearic acid and dilinoleic acid on a polyglyceryl-3 obtained by a polymerization reaction of glycerol. Its CAS number is, for example, 187547-43-9. Advantageously, in the cosmetic composition according to the invention, the mass concentration of polyurethane may be within a range from 0.5 to 5%, by mass relative to the total mass of the composition. Preferably, the mass concentration of polyurethane is within a range from 1% to 4.5%, by mass relative to the total mass of the composition. Polyurethane is a compound obtained by the polymerization of an isocyanate and an alcohol.It can be obtained by the polymerization reaction of a copolymer of hexanediol, neopentyl glycol and adipic acid with hexamethylene diisocyanate then polymerized with sodium N-(-2-aminoethyl)-2-aminoethane sulfonate and ethylenediamine or by the polymerization reaction of a polyester prepolymer consisting of adipic acid, hexanediol and neopentyl glycol with saturated methylene diphenyl diisocyanate or by the polymerization reaction of a copolymer of hexanediol, neopentyl glycol, adipic acid, isophorone diisocyanate and isophorone diamine with sodium N-(-2-aminoethyl)-2-aminoethane sulfonate, or by the polymerization reaction of a copolymer of 1,4-butanediol, neopentyl glycol, succinic acid and isophorone diisocyanate, with sodium N-(-2-aminoethyl)-2-aminoethane sulfonate and isophorone diamine, or by the polymerization reaction of a . copolymer of 1,4-butanediol, neopentyl glycol and succinic acid with saturated methylene diphenyl diisocyanate then functionalized with sodium 2-((2-aminoethyl)amino ethanesulfonate and ethylenediamine. These may include, for example, the products marketed by Covestro under the name Baycusan or by Wanhua Chemical Group under the name Carfil. Advantageously, the polyurethane may be chosen from polyurethane-34, polyurethane-35, polyurethane-48, polyurethane-93, polyurethane-99 and mixtures thereof. Preferably, the polyurethane may be chosen from polyurethane-35, polyurethane-99 and mixtures thereof. Advantageously, in the cosmetic composition according to the invention, the mass concentration of UVA and / or UVB filter may be within a range of 1 to 50%, by mass relative to the total mass of the composition. Preferably, the mass concentration of UVA and / or UVB filter is within a range of 5 to 20%, by mass relative to the total mass of the composition. A composition with an SPF index of 50+ will generally have 15 to 20% of UVA and / or UVB filter. A composition with an SPF index of 30 will generally have 8 to 15% of UVA and / or UVB filter. UVA and / or UVB filters are the substances described in Annex VI of Regulation (EC) No 1223 / 2009 of the European Parliament and of the Council. They are organic or inorganic compounds, or mixtures of compounds, which block or absorb ultraviolet radiation. Organic filters are organic molecules. They provide sun protection by absorbing UV radiation thanks to chromophoric groups made up of conjugated systems. When these molecules absorb incident light, they enter an excited state before emitting energy in the form of heat or fluorescence and then return to their ground state. These filters are characterized by a maximum absorption wavelength, which allows them to be categorized as UVA, UVB or broad-field filters (UVA and UVB). This is why, to obtain the broadest possible spectrum of action and effective protection, it is necessary to combine UVA and UVB filters.Mineral filters are generally chosen from titanium dioxide (TiO;) and zinc oxide (ZnO). Their mechanism of action relies weakly on the absorption of light, but mainly on the diffusion of its rays. They exist in pigment form, and in this case leave a visible white film on the skin, or in nanoparticle form (< 100 nm). TiO; is also sensitive to photodegradation, it is therefore necessary that it be coated in order to avoid any photocatalytic reaction. In addition to preventing this degradation, the coating of TiO; makes it dispersible in the addition medium. The same formulation strategies are applicable to ZnO. It is also possible to find other non-mineral compounds. recognized as UV filters like talc or kaolin, but which also have the power to absorb and / or disperse light. The choice and percentages of filters are determined by the type of formulation desired, the geographical region of marketing, the choice of a conventional or organic product and the protection indices targeted in UVA and UVB. Advantageously, the UVA and / or UVB filter may be a lipophilic and / or hydrophilic organic UV filter. The lipophilic and / or hydrophilic organic UV filter may be one or more lipophilic and / or hydrophilic organic UV filters chosen from lipophilic and / or hydrophilic organic UVA filters, lipophilic and / or hydrophilic organic UVB filters, and mixtures thereof. Advantageously, the UVA and / or UVB filter may be chosen from organic UVA and / or UVB filters. Preferably, the UVA and / or UVB filter is chosen from homosalate, ethylhexyl salicylate, bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine, octocrylene, butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane, ethylhexyl triazone, diethylamino hydroxybenzoyl hexyl benzoate, diethylhexyl butamido triazone, methylene bis-benzotriazolyl tetramethylbutylphenol, phenylbenzimidazol sulfonic acid, disodium phenyl dibenzimidazole tetrasulfonate, ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate, isoamyl p-methoxycinnamate and mixtures thereof. more preferably, preferably from bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine, butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane, ethylhexyl triazone, diethylamino hydroxybenzoyl hexyl benzoate, diethylhexyl butamido triazone and mixtures thereof. More preferably, the UVA and / or UVB filter is chosen from bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine, ethylhexyl triazone, diethylamino hydroxybenzoyl hexyl benzoate, and mixtures thereof. Advantageously, the cosmetic composition according to the invention may further comprise water, optionally one or more elements chosen from water-miscible solvents, fatty substances, including oils, surfactants, polyols, gelling agents, emollients, thickeners, pH adjusters (i.e. acid or base, organic or inorganic), perfumes, colorants, pigments, antimicrobial agents, preservatives, antioxidants, essential oils or even cosmetic active ingredients. Advantageously, the cosmetic composition according to the invention may further comprise one or more lipophilic excipients chosen from a perfume, a colorant, a pigment, an oil, preferably of plant origin, an ester, an ether, a carbonate, a fatty alcohol, a fatty acid, an antioxidant, an essential oil and a lipophilic cosmetic active ingredient. Lipophilic excipients, when liquid, are understood to mean a liquid that is immiscible with water, i.e. when introduced at a rate of at least 1% by mass in water at 25°C, is not at all soluble in water, or soluble to a level of less than 10% by mass, relative to the mass of excipient introduced into the water; and when it is solid, not soluble in water, that is to say when it is introduced at a level of at least 1% by mass into water at 25°C, is not at all soluble in water, or soluble to a level of less than 10% by mass, relative to the mass of excipient introduced into the water. Advantageously, the cosmetic composition according to the invention may comprise an oil. The oil may be of animal or plant origin, of natural or synthetic origin. The oil is preferably of plant origin and / or preferably of natural origin. In the context of the invention, the term "oil" means oily / fatty compounds, the definition of which is generally well known to those skilled in the art, in the technical field of the invention, which are liquid at room temperature. An oil is a liquid that is immiscible with water, that is to say that when it is introduced at a rate of at least 1% by mass into water at 25°C, it is not at all soluble in water, or soluble at a rate of less than 10% by mass, relative to the mass of oil introduced into the water. An oil may be volatile or non-volatile. By "non-volatile", we mean an oil whose vapor pressure at room temperature (25°C) and atmospheric pressure is non-zero and less than 10* mmHg (0.13 Pa). By "volatile", we mean an oil capable of evaporating on contact with the skin in less than one hour, at room temperature and atmospheric pressure.The oils which can be used in the cosmetic compositions of the invention are oils of natural origin, preferably of plant origin, preferably having a melting point of less than 20°C. Advantageously, the oil may be chosen from the group comprising oils of plant origin, preferably chosen from sweet almond, avocado, wheat germ, hazelnut, apricot kernel, castor, sesame, sunflower, rice, copra, macadamia, safflower, jojoba, rapeseed, grape seed, camellia, argan, cotton, borage, muscat rose, evening primrose, olive, walnut, babassu, plum, coconut, chamomile, calendula, peppermint, hemp, lemon, palm, rosemary, sage, shea, soybean, flax, squalane (cane sugar oil), C10 to C30 alkanes and mixtures thereof. Advantageously, the cosmetic composition according to the invention may comprise an ester (ester oil). The ester may be of animal or plant origin, of natural or synthetic origin. The ester is preferably of plant origin and / or preferably of natural origin. Advantageously, the ester may be chosen from the group comprising esters, preferably chosen from phenoxyethyl caprylate, ethylhexyl cocoate, coco-caprylate / caprate, isopropyl palmitate, isopropyl stearate, ethylhexyl stearate, isononyl isononanoate, dibutyl adipate, C12-15 alkyl benzoate, diisopropyl sebacate, diisobutyl adipate, isoamyl laurate, coco-caprylate, C8-C30 alcohol triglycerides (ie. caprylic capric triglyceride) and mixtures thereof. Advantageously, the cosmetic composition according to the invention may comprise an ether (ether oil). The ether may be of animal or plant origin, of natural or synthetic origin. The ether is preferably of plant origin and / or preferably of natural origin. Advantageously, the ether may be chosen from the group comprising plant ethers, preferably dicaprylyl ether, Advantageously, the cosmetic composition according to the invention may comprise a carbonate (carbonate oil). The carbonate may be of animal or plant origin, of natural or synthetic origin. The carbonate is preferably of plant origin and / or preferably of natural origin. Advantageously, the carbonate may be chosen from the group comprising dicaprylyl carbonate, butylene carbonate, 14-15 dialkyl carbonate, diethyl carbonate, dipropyl carbonate, dipropylheptyl carbonate, propylene carbonate and mixtures thereof. Advantageously, the fatty acid may be chosen from the group comprising vegetable fatty acids, preferably chosen from C8 to C26 fatty acids. Preferably, the fatty acid may be chosen from lauric acid, cetyl acid, cetearyl acid, stearic acid, palmitic acid, myristic acid, behenic acid, arachidic acid and mixtures thereof. Advantageously, the fatty alcohol may be chosen from the group comprising vegetable fatty alcohols, preferably chosen from C10 to C22 fatty alcohols. Preferably, the fatty alcohol may be chosen from cetyl alcohol, cetearyl alcohol, palmitic alcohol, stearic alcohol, behenyl alcohol, arachidic alcohol and mixtures thereof. Advantageously, the cosmetic composition according to the invention may further comprise at least one pigment and / or colorant. The pigment may be chosen from the group comprising organic, inorganic and / or composite pigments such as, for example, monochrome pigments (white, black or colored), lakes, pearlescents and / or optical effect pigments. They may be synthetic or natural. In the context of the invention, the term "pigment" means organic, inorganic or composite particles, which may be monochrome, lakes, pearlescent pigments, or pigments with an optical effect, such as reflective pigments and goniochromatic pigments. It may be, for example, a pigment such as those described in Regulation (EC) No 1223 / 2009 of the European Parliament and of the Council. The mineral (inorganic) pigments may be chosen from metal oxide pigments. (such as oxides of cerium, chromium, iron, titanium, zinc or zirconium, manganese violet, Prussian blue, ultramarine blue, ferric blue, and mixtures thereof). Organic pigments may be D&C red 6, D&C red 27 aluminum lake, FD&C red 40 aluminum lake, D&C red 21 aluminum lake, D&C red 36, FD&C yellow 5 aluminum lake, FDC Blue 1 aluminum lake, D&C red 7 aluminum lake, D&C red 30. In the context of the invention, the term "mother-of-pearl" means colored particles or elements of any shape, iridescent or not, natural or synthetic, which can be produced in their shell or synthesized. Mother-of-pearl generally exhibits color effects. Mother-of-pearl can be created on different supports including mica, synthetic fluorflogopithe, bismuth oxychloride and borosilicate and associated with the pigments listed in the previous paragraph. In the context of the invention, the term "colorant" means coloring substances which are not pigments or nacres. It may be, for example, a colorant such as those described in Regulation (EC) No 1223 / 2009 of the European Parliament and of the Council. Advantageously, the cosmetic composition according to the invention may further comprise at least one perfume. The term “perfume” means a perfuming composition whose primary function is to modify the odor of a product or impart an odor to a product. Advantageously, the cosmetic composition according to the invention may further comprise at least one lipophilic cosmetic active ingredient. In the context of the invention, the term "cosmetic active ingredient" means a substance or mixture of substances intended to be placed in contact with the superficial parts of the human body (more particularly the epidermis, the hair and capillary systems, the lips, etc.) or with the teeth and oral mucous membranes, with a view, exclusively or mainly, to cleaning them, perfuming them, changing their appearance, protecting them, keeping them in good condition or correcting body odors. A cosmetic active ingredient is thus generally an ingredient that acts on the skin to provide it with a real benefit. For example, an active ingredient can be nourishing, soothing, moisturizing, mattifying, redensifying. Advantageously, the lipophilic cosmetic active ingredient can be chosen from the group comprising an extract of cornflower, matricaria, chamomile, rosemary, calendula. The cosmetic active ingredient can be easily selected by a person skilled in the art depending on the desired cosmetic effect (anti-aging, nourishing, soothing, moisturizing, mattifying, redensifying, deodorizing). Advantageously, the cosmetic composition according to the invention may further comprise at least one essential oil. The term "essential oil" means a liquid oily concentrated in plant substances, obtained by extraction or distillation of volatile molecules from the original plant. The majority of these are terpenoids and aromatic molecules. Essential oils from different plants therefore have different properties, depending on the original composition. Advantageously, the cosmetic composition according to the invention may further comprise one or more hydrophilic excipients chosen from a surfactant, a colorant, a polyol, a gelling agent (i.e. a polysaccharide, including in particular gums, and / or a carbomer), a pH regulating agent (i.e. acid or base, organic or inorganic), a preservative, an antimicrobial agent, a chelating agent and a hydrophilic cosmetic active ingredient. Advantageously, the pH of the composition may be in the range from 5 to 8. The nature and quantity of the pH regulating agent may be chosen according to this parameter. The pH regulating agent may, for example, be sodium hydroxide (NaOH), an arginine salt, citric acid or lactic acid. A hydrophilic excipient is understood to mean a liquid which is miscible with water, i.e. when introduced at a rate of at least 0.1% by mass into water at 25°C, it is completely soluble in water, or soluble to a level of at least 90% by mass, relative to the mass of excipient introduced into the water; and when it is solid, soluble in water, i.e. soluble to at least 0.1 g / L. Advantageously, the composition according to the invention may further comprise at least one surfactant. The surfactant may be an anionic, cationic, non-ionic, amphoteric surfactant or a combination of their mixtures. Advantageously, the anionic surfactant may be chosen from the group comprising an alkyl sulfate, an alkyl sulfoacetate, an isethionate, a taurate, an acyl-glutamate, and a sarcosinate. Advantageously, the composition according to the invention may comprise one, or two, or three of the anionic surfactants cited. For example, the composition of the invention may contain an ammonium lauryl sulfate, a lauryl sulfoacetate, a sodium cocoyl isethionate, a sodium lauroyl methyl isethionate, a sodium methyl cocoyl taurate, a sodium lauroyl sarcosinate, a sodium stearoyl glutamate, a sodium lauroyl glutamate, disodium cetearyl sulfosuccinate, a sodium lauryl glucose carboxylate or a mixture. According to the invention, the at least one amphoteric surfactant may be chosen from the group comprising N-alkylamidobetaines, betaines, sultaines, alkylpolyaminocarboxylates, alkylamphoacetates, their derivatives, and glycine derivatives. For example, the composition according to the invention may contain betaine, cocamidopropyl betaine, cocobetaine, cocamidopropyl hydroxysultaine, sodium cocoamphoacetate. According to the invention, the at least one non-ionic surfactant may be chosen from the group comprising glycolipids, alkylpolyglucosides, glyceryl fatty acid esters, sucrose fatty acid esters, oxyalkylenated sucrose esters, oxyalkylenated glycerol esters, polyethylene glycol fatty acid esters, sorbitan fatty acid esters, polyglycerolated fatty alcohols and glucamine derivatives. For example: the composition of the invention may contain decyl-glucoside, laurylglucoside, glyceryl oleate, pEG-7 glyceryl cocoate, glyceryl stearate citrate, sorbitan palmitate, cocoyl methyl glucamide, polyglyceryl-3 dicitrate / stearate, polyglyceryl-6 caprylate, polyglyceryl-4 caprate, polyglyceryl-6 polyricinoleate, polyglyceryl-3 ricinoleate, polyglyceryl-2 dipolyhydroxysteate. Advantageously, the cosmetic composition according to the invention may further comprise at least one gelling agent. The gelling agent may be a polysaccharide, a carbomer (for example of CAS = 9007-20-9 / 9003-01-4 / 76050-42-5 / 9062-04-8) or a polyacrylate, preferably a polysaccharide. The polysaccharide may be chosen from gums such as xanthan gum, diutan gum, konjac gum or gellan gum, alginate, glucomannan, chondrus crispus powder, carrageenan, hyaluronic acid (e.g. sodium hyaluronate), starch, sodium carboxymethyl starch, cellulose, microcrystalline cellulose, and mixtures thereof. Preferably, the gelling agent is selected from xanthan gum (e.g. CAS 11138-66-2), diutan gum, glucomannan, sodium carboxymethyl starch, alginate, chondrus crispus powder, cellulose, microcrystalline cellulose and mixtures thereof. Advantageously, the cosmetic composition according to the invention may further comprise at least one polyol, preferably a C3 to C10 polyol. The term “polyol” means a hydrocarbon compound comprising at least 2 hydroxyl functions. The C3 to C10 polyol may be linear or branched. The polyol may be selected from glycerol, diglycerol, propylene glycol (propan-1,2-diol), butylene glycol (butan-1,2-diol), 1,4-butanediol, pentylene glycol (pentan-1,2-diol), 1,5-pentanediol, propane-1,3-diol, methylpropanediol, 1,2-hexanediol, 1,2-heptanediol, butyl ethyl propanediol, 1,2-octanediol, 1,2-decanediol, caprylyl glycol and mixtures thereof. Preferably, the polyol is selected from glycerol, propylene glycol, pentylene glycol, caprylyl glycol, 1,2-hexanediol and mixtures thereof. Advantageously, the cosmetic composition according to the invention may further comprise at least one preservative and / or one antimicrobial agent. The at least one preservative and / or one antimicrobial agent may be chosen from the substances listed in Annex V “Preservatives” of Cosmetics Regulation (EC) No. 1223 / 2009 of November 30, 2009 may be added, and more particularly from sorbic acid and its salts, salicylic acid and its salts, benzoic acid, its salts and its esters, dehydroacetic acid and its salts, phenylpropanol, benzyl alcohol and mixtures thereof. Advantageously, the cosmetic composition according to the invention may further comprise at least one antioxidant. The antioxidant may be chosen from hydroxyacetophenone, tocopheryl acetate, hydroxymethoxyphenyl decanone, tocopherol and mixtures thereof. This may be any other substance capable of slowing down or preventing the oxidation of the cosmetic composition. Advantageously, the cosmetic composition according to the invention may further comprise at least one hydrophilic cosmetic active ingredient. Advantageously, the hydrophilic cosmetic active ingredient may be chosen from the group comprising a floral water, a plant extract or an algae extract such as centaurea cyanus flower water (cornflower floral water) or carpobrotus edulis extract or porphyridium extract. Advantageously, the cosmetic composition according to the invention may further comprise at least one chelating agent. The chelating agent may be chosen from trisodium ethylenediamine disuccinate, sodium phytate, sodium gluconate, tetrasodium glutamate diacetate, sodium gluconate, potassium gluconate, caprylhydroxamic acid, phytic acid and mixtures thereof. It may be any other cosmetic substance having the capacity to fix positive ions to form a stable complex. Advantageously, the cosmetic composition according to the invention may further comprise one or more organic or inorganic salts, one or more organic acids, such as sodium chloride, calcium chloride, potassium chloride, sodium hydroxide (pH adjuster), citric acid, sodium bicarbonate, lactic acid, sodium citrate and mixtures thereof. Advantageously, the cosmetic composition according to the invention may also comprise vitamins, such as vitamin C, inositol (B7), panthenol (B5), vitamin F (ethyl linoleate), vitamin E (tocopherol), vitamin A (retinol). Advantageously, the cosmetic composition according to the invention may be in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion. It may be a cream, a milk, a spray, a cast emulsion and / or a colored emulsion such as a BB cream or a foundation. The cosmetic composition according to the invention may be in the form of a water-in-oil emulsion. It may be a cream, a milk, a spray, a cast emulsion and / or a colored emulsion such as a BB cream or a foundation. Advantageously, the cosmetic composition according to the invention may be an oil-in-water emulsion, in the form of an SPF50+ milk, and comprise: - from 0.6 to 6% of diisostearoyl polyglyceryl 3 dimer dilinoleate, - from 0.5 to 5% polyurethane, - from 6 to 10% of a UVA filter chosen from diethylamino hydroxybenzoyl hexyl benzoate, butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane, disodium phenyl dibenzimidazole tetrasulfonate and their mixtures, - from 6 to 20% of a UVB filter chosen from homosalate, ethylhexyl salicylate, bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine, octocrylene, ethylhexyl triazone, diethylhexyl butamido triazone, methylene bis-benzotriazolyl tetramethylbutylphenol, phenylbenzimidazol sulfonic acid, ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate, isoamyl p-methoxycinnamate and mixtures thereof, - from 16 to 30% of an oil among dicaprylyl carbonate, dibutyl adipate, caprylic / capric triglyceride, phenoxytheyl caprylate, c12-15 alkyl benzoate and their mixtures, - from 0.01 to 5% gelling agent chosen from xanthan gum, glucomannan, gellan gum, carrageenan, cellulose gum, microcrystalline cellulose, gum arabic, diutan gum and mixtures thereof, - from 0.5 to 4% of a surfactant chosen from lauryl glucoside, polyglyceryl-2 dipolyhydroxysteate, glyceryl stearate citrate, polyglyceryl-3 dicitrate / stearate, sodium lauryl glucose carboxylate, disodium cetearyl sulfosuccinate, sodium stearoyl glutamate, sodium lauroyl glutamate, polyglyceryl-6-polyricinoleate and mixtures thereof, - from 0.5 to 4% of fatty acid and / or fatty alcohol chosen from stearic alcohol, cetearyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, behenic alcohol, arachidic alcohol, stearic acid, cetearic acid, cetyl acid, behenic acid, arachidic acid and mixtures thereof, - from 0.01 to 4% of polyol among glycerol, propylene glycol, pentylene glycol, hexylene glycol, caprylyl glycol, 1,2-hexanediol, 1,2-heptanediol, and their mixtures, - optionally from 0.01 to 4% of antioxidant among hydroxyacetophenone, tocopheryl acetate, tocopherol and their mixtures, - optionally from 0.01 to 2% of chelating agent among trisodium ethylenediamine disuccinate, sodium phytate, sodium gluconate, sodium gluconate, potassium gluconate, tetrasodium glutamate diacetate, caprylhydroxamic acid, phytic acid and their mixtures, - from 15 to 70% water, the percentages being given in relation to the total mass (100%) of the composition. Advantageously, the cosmetic composition according to the invention may be an oil-in-water emulsion, in the form of an SPF50+ milk, and comprise: - from 1.5 to 2.25% of diisostearoyl polyglyceryl 3 dimer dilinoleate, - from 1 to 4.5% polyurethane, - from 6 to 8% of a UVA filter chosen from diethylamino hydroxybenzoyl hexyl benzoate, butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane, disodium phenyl dibenzimidazole tetrasulfonate and their mixtures, - from 6 to 15% of a UVB filter chosen from homosalate, ethylhexyl salicylate, bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine, octocrylene, ethylhexyl triazone, diethylhexyl butamido triazone, methylene bis-benzotriazolyl tetramethylbutylphenol, phenylbenzimidazol sulfonic acid, ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate, isoamyl p-methoxycinnamate and mixtures thereof, - from 16 to 25% of an oil among dicaprylyl carbonate, dibutyl adipate, caprylic / capric triglyceride, phenoxytheyl caprylate, c12-15 alkyl benzoate and their mixtures, - from 0.01 to 2% gelling agent chosen from xanthan gum, glucomannan, gellan gum, carrageenan, cellulose gum, microcrystalline cellulose, gum arabic, diutan gum and mixtures thereof, - from 1 to 4% of a surfactant chosen from lauryl glucoside, polyglyceryl-2 dipolyhydroxysteate, glyceryl stearate citrate, polyglyceryl-3 dicitrate / stearate, sodium lauryl glucose carboxylate, disodium cetearyl sulfosuccinate, sodium stearoyl glutamate, sodium lauroyl glutamate, polyglyceryl-6-polyricinoleate and mixtures thereof, - from 0.5 to 3% of fatty acid and / or fatty alcohol chosen from stearic alcohol, cetearyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, behenic alcohol, arachidic alcohol, stearic acid, cetearic acid, cetyl acid, behenic acid, arachidic acid and mixtures thereof, - from 0.5 to 4% of polyol among glycerol, propylene glycol, pentylene glycol, hexylene glycol, caprylyl glycol, 1,2-hexanediol, 1,2-heptanediol, and their mixtures, - optionally from 0.1 to 2% of antioxidant among hydroxyacetophenone, tocopheryl acetate, tocopherol and their mixtures, - optionally from 0.01 to 1% of chelating agent among trisodium ethylenediamine disuccinate, sodium phytate, sodium gluconate, sodium gluconate, potassium gluconate, tetrasodium glutamate diacetate, caprylhydroxamic acid, phytic acid and their mixtures, - 40 to 70% water, the percentages being given in relation to the total mass (100%) of the composition. Advantageously, the cosmetic composition according to the invention may be an oil-in-water emulsion, in the form of an SPF30 milk, and comprise: - from 0.5 to 6% of diisostearoyl polyglyceryl 3 dimer dilinoleate, - from 0.5 to 5% polyurethane, - from 1 to 6% of a UVA filter chosen from diethylamino hydroxybenzoyl hexyl benzoate, butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane and their mixtures, - from 2 to 6% of a UVB filter chosen from bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine, ethylhexyl triazone, diethylhexyl butamido triazone and mixtures thereof, - from 5 to 16% of an oil from dicaprylyl carbonate, dibutyl adipate, caprylic / capric triglyceride, phenoxyethyl caprylate, C12-15 alkyl benzoate and mixtures thereof, - from 0.01 to 5% of a gelling agent chosen from xanthan gum, cellulose gum, microcrystalline cellulose, diutan gum and mixtures thereof, - from 0.5 to 4% of a surfactant chosen from lauryl glucoside, polyglyceryl-2 dipolyhydroxysteate, glyceryl stearate citrate, polyglyceryl-3 dicitrate / stearate, sodium lauryl glucose carboxylate, disodium cetearyl sulfosuccinate, sodium stearoyl glutamate, sodium lauroyl glutamate, polyglyceryl-6-polyricinoleate and mixtures thereof, - from 0.5 to 4% of fatty acid and / or fatty alcohol chosen from stearic alcohol, cetearyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, behenic alcohol, arachidic alcohol, stearic acid, cetearic acid, cetyl acid, behenic acid, arachidic acid and mixtures thereof, - from 0.01 to 4% of polyol among, pentylene glycol, caprylyl glycol, 1,2-hexanediol and their mixtures, - optionally from 0.01 to 4% of antioxidant among hydroxyacetophenone, tocopheryl acetate and their mixtures, - optionally from 0.01 to 2% of chelating agent among trisodium ethylenediamine disuccinate, sodium phytate, sodium gluconate, sodium gluconate, potassium gluconate, tetrasodium glutamate diacetate, caprylhydroxamic acid, phytic acid and their mixtures, - from 34 to 86% water, the percentages being given in relation to the total mass (100%) of the composition. Advantageously, the cosmetic composition according to the invention may be an oil-in-water emulsion, in the form of an SPF30 milk, and comprise: - from 1.5 to 2.5% of diisostearoyl polyglyceryl 3 dimer dilinoleate, - from 1 to 4.5% polyurethane, - from 2 to 6% of a UVA filter chosen from diethylamino hydroxybenzoyl hexyl benzoate, butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane and their mixtures, - from 3 to 6% of a UVB filter chosen from bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine, ethylhexyl triazone, diethylhexyl butamido triazone and their mixtures, - from 8 to 12% of one of dicaprylyl carbonate, dibutyl adipate, caprylic / capric triglyceride, phenoxytheyl caprylate, C12-15 alkyl] benzoate and mixtures thereof, - from 0.01 to 2% of a gelling agent chosen from xanthan gum, cellulose gum, microcrystalline cellulose, diutan gum and mixtures thereof - from 1 to 4% of a surfactant chosen from lauryl glucoside, polyglyceryl-2 dipolyhydroxysteate, glyceryl stearate citrate, polyglyceryl-3 dicitrate / stearate, sodium lauryl glucose carboxylate, disodium cetearyl sulfosuccinate, sodium stearoyl glutamate, sodium lauroyl glutamate, polyglyceryl-6-polyricinoleate and mixtures thereof, - from 0.5 to 3% of fatty acid and / or fatty alcohol chosen from stearic alcohol, cetearyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, behenic alcohol, arachidic alcohol, stearic acid, cetearic acid, cetyl acid, behenic acid, arachidic acid and mixtures thereof, - from 0.5 to 4% of polyol among, pentylene glycol, caprylyl glycol, 1,2-hexanediol and their mixtures, - optionally from 0.1 to 2% of antioxidant among hydroxyacetophenone, tocopheryl acetate and their mixtures, - optionally from 0.01 to 1% of chelating agent among trisodium ethylenediamine disuccinate, sodium phytate, sodium gluconate, sodium gluconate, potassium gluconate, tetrasodium glutamate diacetate, caprylhydroxamic acid, phytic acid and their mixtures, - from 50 to 84% water, the percentages being given in relation to the total mass (100%) of the composition. Advantageously, the cosmetic composition according to the invention may be a water-in-oil emulsion, in the form of an SPF50+ milk, and comprise: - from 0.6 to 6% of diisostearoyl polyglyceryl 3 dimer dilinoleate, - from 0.5 to 5% polyurethane, - from 6 to 10% of a UVA filter chosen from diethylamino hydroxybenzoyl hexyl benzoate, butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane, disodium phenyl dibenzimidazole tetrasulfonate and their mixtures, - from 6 to 20% of a UVB filter chosen from homosalate, ethylhexyl salicylate, bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine, octocrylene, ethylhexyl triazone, diethylhexyl butamido triazone, methylene bis-benzotriazolyl tetramethylbutylphenol, phenylbenzimidazol sulfonic acid, ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate, isoamyl p-methoxycinnamate and mixtures thereof, - from 16 to 30% of an oil among dicaprylyl carbonate, dibutyl adipate, caprylic / capric triglyceride, phenoxytheyl caprylate, c12-15 alkyl benzoate and their mixtures, - from 0.01 to 5% gelling agent chosen from xanthan gum, glucomannan, gellan gum, carrageenan, cellulose gum, microcrystalline cellulose, gum arabic, diutan gum and mixtures thereof, - from 0.5 to 4% of a surfactant chosen from lauryl glucoside, polyglyceryl-2 dipolyhydroxysteate, glyceryl stearate citrate, polyglyceryl-3 dicitrate / stearate, sodium lauryl glucose carboxylate, disodium cetearyl sulfosuccinate, sodium stearoyl glutamate, sodium lauroyl glutamate, polyglyceryl-6-polyricinoleate and mixtures thereof, - from 0.5 to 15% of fatty acid and / or fatty alcohol chosen from stearic alcohol, cetearyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, behenic alcohol, arachidic alcohol, stearic acid, cetearic acid, cetyl acid, behenic acid, arachidic acid and mixtures thereof, - from 0.01 to 4% of polyol among glycerol, propylene glycol, pentylene glycol, hexylene glycol, caprylyl glycol, 1,2-hexanediol, 1,2-heptanediol, and their mixtures, - optionally from 0.01 to 4% of antioxidant among hydroxyacetophenone, tocopheryl acetate, tocopherol and their mixtures, - optionally from 0.01 to 2% of chelating agent among trisodium ethylenediamine disuccinate, sodium phytate, sodium gluconate, sodium gluconate, potassium gluconate, tetrasodium glutamate diacetate, caprylhydroxamic acid, phytic acid and their mixtures, - from 15 to 70% water, the percentages being given in relation to the total mass (100%) of the composition. Advantageously, the cosmetic composition according to the invention may be a water-in-oil emulsion, in the form of an SPF50+ milk, and comprise: - from 1.5 to 2.25% of diisostearoyl polyglyceryl 3 dimer dilinoleate, - from 1 to 4.5% polyurethane, - from 6 to 8% of a UVA filter chosen from diethylamino hydroxybenzoyl hexyl benzoate, butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane, disodium phenyl dibenzimidazole tetrasulfonate and their mixtures, - from 6 to 15% of a UVB filter chosen from homosalate, ethylhexyl salicylate, bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine, octocrylene, ethylhexyl triazone, diethylhexyl butamido triazone, methylene bis-benzotriazolyl tetramethylbutylphenol, phenylbenzimidazol sulfonic acid, ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate, isoamyl p-methoxycinnamate and mixtures thereof, - from 16 to 25% of an oil among dicaprylyl carbonate, dibutyl adipate, caprylic / capric triglyceride, phenoxytheyl caprylate, c12-15 alkyl benzoate and their mixtures, - from 0.01 to 2% gelling agent chosen from xanthan gum, glucomannan, gellan gum, carrageenan, cellulose gum, microcrystalline cellulose, gum arabic, diutan gum and mixtures thereof, - from 3 to 10% of a surfactant chosen from lauryl glucoside, polyglyceryl-2 dipolyhydroxysteate, glyceryl stearate citrate, polyglyceryl-3 dicitrate / stearate, sodium lauryl glucose carboxylate, disodium cetearyl sulfosuccinate, sodium stearoyl glutamate, sodium lauroyl glutamate, polyglyceryl-6-polyricinoleate and mixtures thereof - from 0.5 to 3% of fatty acid and / or fatty alcohol chosen from stearic alcohol, cetearyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, behenic alcohol, arachidic alcohol, stearic acid, cetearic acid, cetyl acid, behenic acid, arachidic acid and mixtures thereof, - from 0.5 to 4% of polyol among glycerol, propylene glycol, pentylene glycol, hexylene glycol, caprylyl glycol, 1,2-hexanediol, 1,2-heptanediol, and their mixtures, - optionally from 0.1 to 2% of antioxidant among hydroxyacetophenone, tocopheryl acetate, tocopherol and their mixtures, - optionally from 0.01 to 1% of chelating agent among trisodium ethylenediamine disuccinate, sodium phytate, sodium gluconate, sodium gluconate, potassium gluconate, tetrasodium glutamate diacetate, caprylhydroxamic acid, phytic acid and their mixtures, - 40 to 70% water, the percentages being given in relation to the total mass (100%) of the composition. Surprisingly, the cosmetic compositions according to the invention make it possible to obtain, in particular thanks to the combination of lipophilic film-forming agent comprising diisostearoyl polyglyceryl 3 dimer dilinoleate and hydrophilic film-forming agent comprising a polyurethane according to the invention, the following advantages: - improving the sun protection of a sun protection composition in vivo compared to an identical composition except that it does not contain a film-forming agent, - improve water resistance to obtain a residual sun protection factor greater than 50% after immersion in two 20-minute baths under standard conditions and a residual sun protection factor greater than 50% after immersion in four 20-minute baths under standard conditions. In the present invention, when an interval is given, the bounds are included. For example, for an interval such as "ranging from 1 to 5%", the values 1% and 5% are included in the interval. In the present invention, unless otherwise stated, all percentages (%) are given as a percentage by mass, relative to the total mass of the cosmetic composition. In the case of cosmetic compositions such as so-called biphasic compositions or emulsions, the percentages may also be given, where indicated, relative to the total mass of the oily phase or the aqueous phase. Apart from UVA and / or UVB filters, the cosmetic compositions according to the invention are exclusively or almost exclusively composed of products of natural origin. Thus, a composition according to the invention generally comprises less than 50% of products of synthetic origin relative to the total mass of the composition, preferably less than 40%, or even less than 35%. The term "material of synthetic origin" refers to unavoidable compounds such as UV filters, certain oils, fatty substances or solvents of said UV filters, perfumes, preservatives, certain fillers and pigments essential in makeup products (i.e. foundation). A sunscreen type composition according to the invention may generally comprise less than 50% (<50%) of products of synthetic origin (i.e. UVA and / or UVB filters, oils, fatty substances, preservatives, or perfumes).For example, an oil-in-water emulsion SPF 50+ sunscreen composition may generally comprise less than 35% of products of synthetic origin. For example, an oil-in-water SPF 30 sunscreen composition may generally comprise less than 30% of products of synthetic origin. In the context of the invention, the term "product of natural origin" means a product falling within the definition given by the ISO 16128 standard: ingredients derived from natural materials are cosmetic ingredients, for a proportion of more than 50% of natural origin, by their molecular mass, according to their renewable carbon content, or according to any other appropriate method, which are obtained by defined chemical and / or biological processes aimed at chemically modifying them. It may be a chemical compound or a chemical substance produced by a living organism, that is to say which is found in nature. In the context of the invention, products such as butters or oils derived from plants or from the hydrogenation of oils of natural origin, preferably vegetable, are considered to be products of natural origin. Advantageously, the cosmetic composition according to the invention may further comprise one or more additional cosmetic excipients conventionally used in cosmetics, such as a wax, a butter or any other compound conventionally used in cosmetics, preferably of natural origin. Advantageously, the cosmetic composition according to the invention comprises several phases (including at least one aqueous phase). The composition according to the invention may be in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion (such as a cream, a milk, a spray, a cast emulsion and / or a colored emulsion such as a BB cream, a foundation), a water-in-oil emulsion (such as a cream, a milk, a spray, a cast emulsion and / or a colored emulsion such as a BB cream, a foundation), a two-phase composition (i.e. a composition comprising a fatty or oily phase and an aqueous phase where the two phases are optically separated at zero shear rate and become homogeneous upon stirring and return to two separate phases again after stirring is stopped). The invention also comprises a use of a combination of a lipophilic film-forming agent comprising diisostearoyl polyglyceryl 3 dimer dilinoleate and a hydrophilic film-forming agent comprising a polyurethane in a cosmetic sunscreen composition. The cosmetic sunscreen composition may be in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion (such as a cream, a milk, a spray, and / or a colored emulsion such as a BB cream, a foundation) and / or a water-in-oil emulsion (such as a cream, a milk, a spray, and / or a colored emulsion such as a BB cream, a foundation), a biphasic composition (I.e. a composition comprising a fatty or oily phase and an aqueous phase where the two phases are optically separated at zero shear rate and become homogeneous upon stirring and revert to two separate phases again after stirring is stopped). The invention also relates to a cosmetic process for sun protection of keratin materials (skin and / or hair), preferably the lips and / or the skin (face and / or body), comprising at least one step consisting of applying to the lips, the skin (face and / or body) and / or the hair, at least one cosmetic composition according to the invention. Advantageously, the use according to the invention may be a use of the cosmetic composition according to the invention to protect keratin materials (skin and / or hair), preferably the lips and / or the skin (face and / or body) from the sun, in particular from UVA and / or UVB. Examples The invention is further illustrated by the following examples, in a non-limiting manner. Example 1: Sun protection compositions according to the invention The reference compositions (outside the invention), LI] (outside the invention), LH], LH2, LH3, LH4 and H4 (outside the invention). [Tableaux1] INCI |PHASE [Référence |L1 |LHI 45-65 0,01-0,5 ee (hors invention) “JA 45-65 “|A Joo1-05 A FE FH |B |0,5-4 |0.5-4 0,54 0,01-1 0,01-1 0,01-1 0,01-1 0,01-1 0,01-1 0,1-0,7 0,1-0,7 0,1-0,7 0,1-1 0,1-1 0,1-1 0,5-2 0,5-2 0,5-2 0,5-4 0,5-4 0,5-4 e 4 | | E 25H | |L5-4 |1,5-4 |L5-4 DIISOSTEAROYL PO- |E |L5-2,5 LYGLYCERYL-3 DIMER DI- LINOLEATE CAPRYLIC / CAPRIC | E [13 TRIGLYCERIDE 2-10 2-10 JE 210 DIBUTYL ADIPATE |E 2-10 C12-15 ALKYL |E 2-10 BENZOATE DICAPRYLYL E 2-10 CARBONATE PHENOXYETHYL JE 2-10 CAPRYLATE DIETHYLAMINO HY- |E |s-10 DROXYBENZOYL HEXYL BENZOATE 28 |E |1-5 0,75-2,25 0,5-1,5 1-2 0,1-0,2 100 [Tableaux2] [ICT PHASE |LH3 LH ” (hors invention) AQUA a 45-65 45-65 |45-65 POTASSIUM GLUCONATE |A 0,01-05 |0,01-05 |0,01-0,5 PENTYLENE GLYCOL B 0,5-4 0,5-4 0,5-4 1.2-HEXANEDIOL BP 0,01-1 001-1 [o01-1 CAPRYLYL GLYCOL CB 0,01-1 001-1— Jo01-1 [HYDROXYACETOPHENONE |B 01-07 lo1-07 |o.1-07 XANTHAN GUM C 0,1-1 0,1-1 0,1-1 [SODIUM STEAROYL # 0,5-2 05-2 0,5-2 JE jp54 [054 |p5-4 [L5-4 [L5-4 [1,5-4 JE 15-25 |1525 | 13 |L3 [13 |- |E | |s-10 |s-10 |s-10 28 28 [2-8 |Ls 1-5 1-5 1,5-7 1,5-7 145 frs ETHYLHEXYLTRIAZONE JE AQUA CF |POLYURETHANE-35 |F AQUA FE POLYURETHANE-34 F AQUA Ë POLYURETHANE-99 | F |AQUA G CITRIC ACID G TOTAL | 1,5-7 |- |- FE , [12 [La [12 01-02 lo1-02 01-02 100 100 100 Tables | ct 2: Mass compositions (cn %) of the reference compositions (outside the invention), L1 (outside the invention), LH1, LH2, LH3, LH4 and H4 (outside the invention). Preparation process for the seven compositions: The aqueous phase (A) is homogenized under a Raynerie deflocculator. The glycol phase (B) is homogenized at 70°C. The gelling agent (C) is dispersed in B under magnetic stirring. Phase B+C is added to phase A under vigorous stirring to unfold the gel. The gelled aqueous phase (ABC) is heated under stirring to 85°C. When phase ABC reaches 65°C, phase D (if present) is added while maintaining stirring. The fatty phase (E) is prepared in parallel by mixing all of its components and homogenizing with magnetic stirring while heating to 85°C. When the aqueous phase (ABCD or ABC) is homogeneous, at 85°C and the fatty phase (E) is also at 85°C, the emulsion is implemented by incorporating the fatty phase (E) into the aqueous phase (ABCD or ABC) with vigorous stirring and the heating is stopped. The composition is then cooled with slow stirring to room temperature (approximately 20-25°C).When present, the hydrophilic film-forming phase (F) is incorporated as soon as the composition reaches a temperature below 50°C. The pH is adjusted cold by the addition of an acid solution phase (G) in order to obtain a pH between 7.5 and 8 (LH2 case) or between 5 and 5.5 (other cases). Example 2: Sun protection efficacy of the compositions of Example 1 The study of the sun protection efficacy (SPF) was demonstrated via the measurement method described by the ISO 24444:2020 standard. The results are compiled in Table 3. Example 3: Water resistance of the compositions of Example 1 The study of sunscreen effectiveness (SPF) was demonstrated via the method of measurement described by the ISO 24444:2020 standard. The study of the water resistance effectiveness of sunscreen was demonstrated via the measurement method described by ISO 18861:2020. The results are compiled in Table 3. [Tables 3] |LH3 Efficiency and resistance [Film-forming Nature Ref. [Li [LH LES |H4 |Lr4 (off (off (off inventio inventio | inventio | n) n) n) lipophil |lipophil [lipophilic [lipophilic |[hydrophi |lipophilic + ee +hy- |+hy- |le hydrophilic drophile |drophile 25 [ts [3 [5 Q 3.5 fs [5 p3 (5 PL js % material 25 |L5 3 35 PR ps film-forming % gain SPF by lo |-8.6 [+69 |+o.1 [+09 [+197 compared to Ref. % gain Resistance to jo [+70 |+I69 [+79 |445 |+189 water compared to Ref. Table 3: Sun protection efficacy and water resistance of the reference compositions (not included in the invention) and L1 (not included in the invention), LH], H3 (not included in the invention), H4, and H3 (not included in the invention) compared to the reference composition. List of references (1) Couteau C, Coiffard L. Sunscreen product — Formulation and effectiveness. Techniques de l’Ingénieur (2018). @) Hubaud JC. Formulation and evaluation of sunscreen products — Evaluation. Design of cosmetic products (2015). (3) Jansen R, Wang S, et al. Photoprotection — Part I. Photoprotection by naturally occurring, physical and systemic agents. J Am Acad Dermatol (2013), 69: 853. (4) http: / / www.planetoscope.com / eau-oceans / 1247-litres-de-creme-solaire-diluee-dans-loc ean.html. (5) https: / / www.nytimes.com / 2018 / 05 / 03 / travel / hawaii-sunscreen-ban.html. (6) Jovanovic B, Guzman H. Effects of titanium oxy (TiO2) nanoparticles on Caribbean reef building coral (Monstastraea faveolata). Environ Toxicol Chem (2014), 33:1346. (7) Downs C, Karmarsky-Winter À, et al. Toxicophatological effects of the sunscreen UV filter, oxybenzone (benzophenone-3), on coral planulae and cultured primary cells and its environmental contamination in Hawaii and the U.S Virgin Islands. Arch Environ Contam Toxicol (2016), 70: 265. (8) Danovaro R, Bongiorni L, et al. Sunscreens cause coral bleaching by promoting viral infections. Environmental Health Perspectives (2008). (9) Sanchez-Quiles D, Tovar-Sanchez À. Âre sunscreens a new environemental ris- Keassociated with coastal tourism? Environment International (2015) 83: 158. (10) https: / / www.nytimes.com / 2018 / 05 / 03 / travel / hawaii-sunscreen-ban.html. (11) http: / / Www.premiumbeautynews.com / fr / la-france-va-inventorier-les, 13745.
Claims
Claims
1. Cosmetic composition comprising at least one UVA filter and / or UVB, a lipophilic film-forming agent comprising diisostearoyl poly- glyceryl 3 dimer dilinoleate and a hydrophilic film-forming agent comprising a polyurethane.
2. A composition according to claim 1, wherein the concentration mass of diisostearoyl polyglyceryl 3 dimer dilinoleate is included in a range from 0.6 to 6%, preferably 1.5% to 2.25%, in mass relative to the total mass of the composition.
3. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the mass concentration of polyurethane is included in a range of 0.5 to 5%, preferably 1 to 4.5%, by mass relative to the total mass of the composition.
4. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the UVA and / or UVB filter is chosen from homosalate, ethylhexyl salicylate, bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine, octocrylene, butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane, ethylhexyl triazone, Diethylamino Hydroxybenzoyl Hexyl Benzoate, the diethyl thylhexyl butamido triazone, Methylene Bis-Benzotriazolyl Tetrame- thylbutylphenol, Phenylbenzimidazol Sulfonic Acid, Disodium Phenyl Dibenzimidazole Tetrasulfonate, Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate, Isoamyl p-Methoxycinnamate and mixtures thereof, preferably among bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine, butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane, ethylhexyl triazone, Diethylamino Hydroxybenzoyl Hexyl Benzoate, diethylhexyl butamido triazone and mixtures thereof, and more preferably among the bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl] triazine, ethylhexyl triazone, Diethylamino Hydroxybenzoyl Hexyl Benzoate , and their mixtures.
5. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the polyurethane is selected from polyurethane-34, po- polyurethane-35, polyurethane-48, polyurethane-93, polyurethane- 99 and their mixtures, preferably among polyurethane-35, poly- urethane-99 and their mixtures.
6. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the mass concentration of UVA and / or UVB filter can be within a range of 1 to 50%, preferably 5 to 20% by mass relative to the total mass of the composition.
7. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims further comprising one or more cosmetic excipients, preferably chosen from hydrophilic and / or li- cosmetic excipients pophiles, and even more preferably chosen from: - a perfume, a colorant, a pigment, an oil, preferably of origin vegetable, an ester, a carbonate, an alkane, an ether, a fatty alcohol, a fatty acid, an antioxidant, an essential oil and a cosmetic active ingredient lipophilic, and / or - a surfactant, a colorant, a polyol, a gelling agent (i.e. a poly- saccharide, including in particular gums and / or a carbomer), an agent pH regulator, a preservative, an antimicrobial agent, an agent chelating agent and a hydrophilic cosmetic active ingredient.
8. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, said composition being in the form: - an oil-in-water emulsion, preferably a cream, a milk, a spray, a cast emulsion and / or a colored emulsion such as a BB cream or foundation), - a water-in-oil emulsion, preferably a cream, a milk, a spray, a cast emulsion and / or a colored emulsion such as a BB cream or foundation, or - a two-phase composition.
9. Use of a combination of a lipophilic film-forming agent comprising diisostearoyl polyglyceryl 3 dimer dilinoleate and a hydrophilic film-forming agent comprising a polyurethane in a com- cosmetic sunscreen position.
10. Use according to the preceding claim in which the com- cosmetic sun protection position comes in the form of: - an oil-in-water emulsion, preferably a cream, a milk, a spray, a cast emulsion and / or a colored emulsion such as a BB cream or foundation), - a water-in-oil emulsion, preferably a cream, a milk, a spray, a cast emulsion and / or a colored emulsion such as a BB cream or foundation, or - a two-phase composition.