SKIN CLEANSING COMPOSITION

Abstract

SKIN CLEANSING COMPOSITION The present invention relates to a skin cleansing composition comprising: a) more than 1.0% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition of at least one ceramide-type compound and b) more than 1.0% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition of at least one surfactant. The present invention also relates to a skin cleansing method, comprising applying the composition according to the present invention to the skin and rinsing off said composition after an optional period of time. Figure for the abstract: none

Description

Title of the invention: SKIN CLEANSING COMPOSITION technical field

[0001] The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition, in particular a composition for cleansing the skin. The present invention also relates to a method for cleansing the skin using said composition. PREVIOUS STATE OF TECHNOLOGY

[0002] Cleansing the skin is very important for skin care. It must be as effective as possible because oily residues, such as excess sebum, remnants of cosmetic products used daily and makeup products, especially waterproof products, accumulate in skin folds, can clog pores and lead to the appearance of spots.

[0003] Several types of skin cleansing or makeup-removing products, for example, rinse-off anhydrous oils and gels, are known.

[0004] Rinse-off anhydrous oils and gels have a cleansing or makeup-removing action due to the oils present in these formulations. These oils dissolve oily residues and disperse makeup pigments. These products are effective and well-tolerated. However, they have the disadvantages of being heavy and not providing a smooth skin finish upon application, which is undesirable from a cosmetic point of view.

[0005] Foaming creams, lotions, and gels have a cleansing or makeup-removing action thanks to surfactants, which suspend oily residues on the face. They are effective and pleasant to use because they foam and are easy to remove. To achieve a higher foam density in a foaming cleanser, traditional foaming cleansers may include more polymers or a high quantity of surfactants. However, these foaming cleansers would provide an undesirable cleansing sensation and skin finish.

[0006] In addition, for some commercial cleaners, the rinsing speed is not fast and they do not provide a good crunchy feeling after rinsing, which leads to an unpleasant user experience.

[0007] Furthermore, the formulation of environmentally friendly cosmetic products, which are designed and developed taking environmental issues into account, is becoming a major objective in an effort to meet global challenges.

[0008] It is therefore essential to propose more sustainable compositions, preparation processes and ingredients to address these environmental concerns.

[0009] In this context, it is important to develop new cosmetic compositions with a better carbon footprint, in particular by promoting the use of renewable raw materials and / or materials with a good naturalness index and / or materials of natural origin and, more specifically, materials of plant origin, while reducing the use of petrochemical compounds

[0010] Therefore, it is necessary to formulate more durable compositions for cleansing the skin, which can offer a good sensory cleansing experience (including a fast rinsing speed and a good crunching sensation), and a good skin finish (including no sticky, tight, dry or unhydrated skin sensation). Summary of the invention

[0011] The inventors have observed that one or more of the above-mentioned needs can be met by the present invention.

[0012] Thus, according to a first aspect, the present invention proposes a skin cleansing composition comprising:

[0013] a) more than 1.0% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition of at least one ceramide-type compound and

[0014] b) more than 1.0% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition of at least one surfactant.

[0015] The composition according to the present invention can offer a fast rinsing speed, a good feeling of cleanliness and skin finish.

[0016] Moreover, the composition according to the present invention is more durable.

[0017] It can be used as a daily facial cleanser or as a makeup remover. The composition of the present invention is a rinse-off product. Thus, such a composition can be applied to the skin (namely: face and / or body) and then rinsed off with running water.

[0018] According to a second aspect, the present invention proposes a skin cleansing method, comprising applying the composition according to the present invention to the skin and rinsing off said composition after an optional period of time.

[0019] Other subjects, features, aspects, and advantages of the invention will become even clearer upon reading the description and examples that follow. DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION

[0020] Unless otherwise indicated, all technical and scientific terms used in this document have the same meaning as that commonly understood by a person skilled in the art in the field covered by the present invention. Where the definition of a term in the present invention conflicts with the meaning commonly understood by for a person skilled in the art in the field to which the present invention relates, the definition described in this document shall apply.

[0021] In what follows, and unless otherwise indicated, the limits of a range of values ​​are included in that range, in particular in the expressions "between... and..." and "from... to...".

[0022] Furthermore, the expression "at least one" used in this description is equivalent to the expression "one or more".

[0023] Throughout this application, the term "comprising" shall be interpreted as encompassing all the specifically mentioned features as well as optional, additional, unspecified features. As used herein, the use of the term "comprising" also discloses the embodiment in which no features other than the specifically mentioned features are present (namely, "consisting of").

[0024] Unless otherwise stated, all numerical values ​​expressing a quantity of ingredients and the like used in the description and claims shall be understood as modified by the term "approximately". Consequently, unless otherwise stated, the numerical values ​​and parameters described in this document are approximate values ​​that may be modified, where appropriate, depending on the intended purpose.

[0025] For the purposes of the present invention, the term "keratinous material" is understood to cover human skin and mucous membranes such as lips and hair. Facial skin is considered in particular according to the present invention.

[0026] As used here, "crunchy sensation" means that it is a kind of astringent and unlubricated sensation.

[0027] In the present invention, all percentages refer, unless otherwise indicated, to a percentage by weight.

[0028] According to the first aspect, the composition of the present invention comprises:

[0029] a) more than 1.0% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition of at least one ceramide-type compound and

[0030] b) more than 1.0% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition of at least one surfactant. Ceramide-type compounds

[0031] According to the first aspect, the composition of the present invention comprises more than 1.0% by weight of at least one ceramide-type compound, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0032] According to the present invention, the term "ceramide-type compound" refers to natural or synthetic ceramides and / or glycoceramides and / or pseudoceramides and / or neoceramides.

[0033] Preferably, the ceramide-type compound used is a natural ceramide.

[0034] Ceramide-type compounds are disclosed, for example, in patent applications DE 4424530, DE 4424533, DE 4402929, DE 4420736, WO 95 / 23807, WO 94 / 07844, EP-A-0 646 572, WO 95 / 16665, FR-2 673 179, EP-A-0 227 994, WO 94 / 07844, WO 94 / 24097 and WO 94 / 10131.

[0035] Ceramide-type compounds are known as one of the key components of the skin barrier, resulting in a skin barrier repair function. Ceramide-type compounds are a family of lipid molecules, composed of sphingosine and a fatty acid, and are found in high concentrations in the cell membrane.

[0036] The ceramide-type compounds that can be used according to the present invention preferably correspond to the general formula (I): r. R3 (I) O |3 R—C--N—CH-CH—O—R, ■ II r4 r =

[0037] where:

[0038] - Ri designates:

[0039] - either a saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon radical, linear or branched in Ci-C50, preferably in C5-C50, this hydrocarbon radical can be substituted by one or more hydroxyl groups optionally esterified by an acid R7 COOH, R7 being a hydrocarbon radical optionally mono- or polyhydroxylated, saturated or unsaturated and linear or branched in Ci-C35, it is possible that the hydroxyl or hydroxyls of the radical R7 are esterified by a fatty acid in Ci-C35 optionally mono- or polyhydroxylated, saturated or unsaturated and linear or branched;

[0040] - or a radical R"-(NR-CO)-R', in which R denotes a hydrogen atom or a mono- or polyhydroxylated hydrocarbon radical, preferably monohydroxylated, in Ci-C2o, R' and R" are hydrocarbon radicals, whose sum of carbon atoms is between 9 and 30, R' being a divalent radical;

[0041] - or a radical R8 -O-CO-(CH2)P, in which R8 denotes a hydrocarbon radical in C1-C20 and p is an integer ranging from 1 to 12;

[0042] - R2 is chosen from a hydrogen atom, a saccharide-type radical, in in particular a (glycosyl)n, (galactosyl)m radical or a sulphogalactosyl radical, a sulfate or phosphate residue, a phosphorylethylamine radical and a phosphorylethylammonium radical, where n is an integer from 1 to 4 and m is an integer from 1 to 8;

[0043] - R3 designates a hydrogen atom or a hydrocarbon radical in the form of a hydroxylated Ci-C33 or non-hydroxylated and saturated or unsaturated, the hydroxyl or hydroxyls being able to be esterified by an inorganic acid or an R7 COOH acid, R7 having the same meaning as above, and the hydroxyl or hydroxyls being able to be etherified by a (glycosyl)n, (galactosyl)m, sulfogactosyl, phosphorylethylamine or phosphorylethylammonium radical, it is also possible to substitute R3 by one or more alkyl radicals in CrCi4;

[0044] preferably, R3 designates a Ci5-C26 hydroxyalkyl radical, the hydroxyl group being optionally esterified by a Ci6-C30 hydroxylic acid;

[0045] - R4 designates a hydrogen atom, a methyl or ethyl radical, a radical optionally hydroxylated C3-C50 hydrocarbon, saturated or unsaturated and linear or branched, or a hydrocarbon radical -CH2-CHOH-CH2-O-R6, in which R6 denotes a C10-C26 hydrocarbon radical, or an R8-O-CO-(CH2)P radical, in which R8 denotes a C1-C20 hydrocarbon radical and p is an integer ranging from 1 to 12;

[0046] - R5 designates a hydrogen atom or a hydrocarbon radical in Ci - C30 optionally mono- or polyhydroxylated, saturated or unsaturated and linear or branched, the hydroxyl or hydroxyls being able to be etherized by a radical (glycosyl)n, (galactosyl)m, sulfogalactosyl, phosphorylethylamine or phosphorylethylammonium;

[0047] Provided that, when R3 and R5 denote hydrogen or when R3 denotes hydrogen and R5 denotes methyl, in this case R4 does not denote a hydrogen atom or a methyl or ethyl radical.

[0048] Preference is given, among compounds of formula (I), to ceramides and / or glycoceramides according to the structure described by Downing in Journal of Lipid Research, Vol. 35, 2060-2068, 1994, or those disclosed in French patent application FR-2 673 179, the teachings of which are included here by way of reference.

[0049] The ceramide-type compounds that are particularly preferred according to the invention are the compounds of formula (I) for which Ri denotes an optionally hydroxylated and saturated or unsaturated alkyl derived from fatty acids in the Ci4-C22 group; R2 denotes a hydrogen atom; and R3 denotes an optionally hydroxylated and linear Cn-Cp radical, preferably in the Ci3-Ci5 group. R3 preferably denotes an α-hydroxyketyl radical and R2, R4 and R5 denote a hydrogen atom.

[0050] These compounds are, for example:

[0051] - 2-N-linoleoylaminooctadecane-l,3-diol,

[0052] - 2-N-oleoylaminooctadecane-1,3-diol (N-oleoyldihydrosphingosine),

[0053] - 2-N-palmitoylaminooctadecane-1,3-diol,

[0054] - 2-N-stearoylaminooctadecane-l,3-diol,

[0055] - 2-N-behenoylaminooctadecane-l,3-diol,

[0056] - 2-N-[2-hydroxypalmitoyl]aminooctadecane-1,3-diol,

[0057] - 2-N-stearoylaminooctadecane-1,3,4-triol and in particular N- stearoylphytosphingosine,

[0058] - 2-N-palmitoylaminohexadecane-1,3-diol,

[0059] or mixtures of these compounds.

[0060] Specific mixtures can also be used, such as, for example, mixtures of ceramide(s) 2 and ceramide(s) 5 according to the Downing classification.

[0061] Compounds of formula (I) can also be used, for which Ri denotes a saturated or unsaturated alkyl radical derived from C12-C22 fatty acids; R2 denotes a galactosyl or sulfogalactosyl radical and R3 denotes a saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon radical in C12-C22 and preferably a -CH2)i2-CH3 group.

[0062] One can cite, by way of example, the product composed of a mixture of glycoceramides marketed under the trade name Glycocer by Waitaki International Biosciences.

[0063] The compounds of formula (I) disclosed in patent applications EP-A-0 227 994, EP-A-0 647 617, EP-A-0 736 522 and WO 94 / 07844 may also be used.

[0064] These compounds are, for example, Questamide H (bis(N-hydroxyethyl-N-cetyl)malonamide), marketed by Quest, or cetyl acid N-(2-hydroxyethyl)-N-(3-cetyloxy-2-hydroxypropyl)amide.

[0065] N-docosanoyl-N-methyl-D-glucamine, disclosed in patent application WO 94 / 24097, may also be used.

[0066] Preferably, the ceramide is chosen from among 2-oleamido-l,3-octadecanediol (its CTFA name), marketed, for example, under the name MEXANYL GZ by Chimex, and ceramide NP (CTFA name N-stearoylphytosphingosine), marketed, for example, under the name CERAMIDE III by EVONIK GOLDSCHMIDT.

[0067] Advantageously, the ceramide-type compound is present in an amount ranging from 1.2% by weight to 10% by weight, preferably from 1.3% by weight to 5% by weight, better still from 1.5% by weight to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Surfactants

[0068] According to the first aspect, the composition according to the present invention comprises more than 1.0% by weight of at least one surfactant.

[0069] The surfactant can be chosen from anionic, amphoteric, non-ionic, cationic surfactants and mixtures thereof.

[0070] Preferably, the surfactant is chosen from anionic surfactants, amphoteric surfactants and mixtures thereof. Anionic surfactants

[0071] The term “anionic surfactant” refers to a surfactant comprising, as ionic or ionizable groups, only anionic groups.

[0072] In the present description, an entity is qualified as "anionic" when it has at least one permanent negative charge or when it can be ionized by a negatively charged entity, under the conditions of use of the composition of the invention (medium, pH for example) and not containing a cationic charge.

[0073] Anionic surfactants can be sulfates or sulfonates which have at least one sulfate group (-OSO3H or -OSO3), and / or a sulfonate group (-SO3H or -SO3), or carboxylic surfactants or carboxylates having at least one carboxylic acid group (-COOH or -COO).

[0074] It is understood that anionic carboxylate surfactants may include one or more sulfate or sulfonate groups; anionic sulfonate surfactants may optionally include, in addition, one or more sulfate or carboxylate groups; and anionic sulfate surfactants may optionally include, in addition, one or more carboxylate or sulfonate groups.

[0075] Anionic surfactants that may be used include alkyl sulfates, alkyl ether sulfates, alkylamido ether sulfates, alkylaryl polyether sulfates, monoglyceride sulfates, alkyl sulfonates or alpha olefin sulfonates, alkylamide sulfonates, alkylarylsulfonates, paraffin sulfonates, alkyl sulfosuccinates, alkyl ether sulfosuccinates, alkylamide sulfosuccinates, alkyl sulfoacetates, acylsarcosinates, acylglycinates, acylglutamates, alkyl sulfosuccinamates, acylisethionates and n-acurates, salts of alkyl monoesters and polyglycoside polycarboxylic acids, acyl lactylates, N-acyl glycinates, salts of D-galactoside uronic acids, and salts of alkyl ether acids. carboxylic acids, alkyl aryl ether carboxylic acid salts, alkyl amidoether carboxylic acid salts, sulfoacetates, sulfolaurates, carboxylates, and the corresponding non-saline forms of all these compounds, the alkyl and acyl groups of all these compounds containing from 6 to 30 carbon atoms,in particular 10 to 22 carbon atoms, better still, 10 to 18 carbon atoms; and aryl means phenyl group. Some of these compounds can be ethoxylated, then preferably comprise 1 to 50 ethylene oxide motifs.

[0076] Ethylene polyoxyalkylened (C6-C24) (amido) ether carboxylic acids and their salts may also be cited, in particular those comprising 2 to 50 alkylene oxide groups, in particular, such as are marketed by the KAO company under the names AKYPO.

[0077] The most preferred alkyl (C6-C24) (amido) ether carboxylic acids correspond to the following formula:

[0078] R1-(OC2H4)n-OCH2COOA (1)

[0079] in which:

[0080] - Ri represents a radical or a combination of linear alkyl or alkenyl or branched at C8-C22, an alkyl (C8-C9) phenyl radical, an R2 CONH-CH2-CH2 group - with R2 denoting a linear or branched alkenyl alkyl radical at C9-C21; preferably Ri being an alkyl radical having 8 to 20 carbon atoms, preferably 8 to 18 carbon atoms and aryl denoting preferably phenyl,

[0081] - n is an integer or decimal (average value) ranging from 2 to 24 and from preference from 2 to 10,

[0082] A denotes H, ammonium, Na, K, Li, Mg or monoethanolamine or triethanolamine.

[0083] It is also possible to use mixtures of compounds of formula (1), in particular mixtures in which the Ri groups differ.

[0084] The (C6-C24) polyoxyalkylated (amido) ether carboxylic acids preferably used in the present invention are chosen from those of formula (1) in which:

[0085] - Ri designates a radical or a combination of alkyl radicals (C12-C14), a radical cocoyl, oleyl, a nonyl or octylphenyl radical,

[0086] - A denotes hydrogen or sodium and

[0087] - n goes from 2 to 20 and preferably from 2 to 10.

[0088] Polyoxy(C6-C24)alkylated ether carboxylic acids and their salts are preferably used, and also polyoxyalkylated (C6-C24)alkylamido ether carboxylic acids and their salts; in particular those having 2 to 15 alkylene oxide groups.

[0089] Even more preferably, compounds of formula (1) can be used in which Ri is a C12 alkyl radical, A designates hydrogen or sodium and n goes from 2 to 10.

[0090] The salts are specially chosen from alkali metal salts, in particular sodium, potassium, ammonium, amine, amino alcohol salts such as triethanolamine salts or monoethanolamine salts and magnesium salts.

[0091] Preferably, the anionic surfactants are chosen, alone or in mixtures, from among the following:

[0092] - (C6-C24)alkyl sulfates, in particular C12-C20,

[0093] - (C6-C24)alkyl ether sulfates, in particular in C12-C20, preferably containing 2 to 20 ethylene oxide patterns,

[0094] - (C6-C24)alkylsulfosuccinates, in particular in C12-C20, including laurylsulfosuccinates,

[0095] - (C6-C24)alkyl ether sulfosuccinates, particularly in acyl sarcosinates C12-C20, (C6-C24), in particular in C12-C20, including palmitoylsarcosinates,

[0096] - alkyl ether carboxylates in C6-C24, preferably ether carboxylates of alkyl in C12-C20;

[0097] - carboxylates (C10-C22),

[0098] - C6-C24 acyl isethionates, preferably C12-C20 acyl isethionates,

[0099] - C6-C24 polyoxyalkylated carboxylic (amido) ether acids and salts of these, in particular those comprising 2 to 50 alkylene oxide groups and especially ethylene oxide;

[0100] - (C6-C24) acylglutamates, in particular C12-C20,

[0101] - (C6-C24) acylglycinates, in particular C12-C20,

[0102] in particular in the form of alkali or alkaline-earth salts, ammonium, amine or amino alcohol.

[0103] Better still, the anionic surfactant is chosen from (C6-C24)alkyl sulfates, (C6-C24)alkyl ether sulfates such as sodium lauryl ether sulfate, isethionates, (C12-C20)acylglycinates such as potassium cocoyl glycinate, (C10-C22)carboxylates, such as potassium cocoate and their combinations.

[0104] Amphoteric surfactants

[0105] Amphoteric surfactants that can be used in the invention can be betaine surfactants.

[0106] Betaine surfactants can be derived from a variety of natural oils or fatty acids.

[0107] Exemplary useful betaines include, in particular, those of the following formulas (la-Id): EYELASH L RI g ~~~ N ' •— (CI LL—COQ' ch3

[0108] (the)

[0109] (Ib) CB R । $1— ]SP “■ ( C # —■ S (Jy CB

[0110] (the) (¾ R w—C—N—i CHb ™N" — CBCOG" OH CM [YES] (Id)

[0112] in which:

[0113] Rio is an alkyl group having 8 to 20 carbon atony;

[0114] n is an integer from 1 to 6.

[0115] In particular, we can mention (C8-C20)alkylbetaines, (C8-C20)alkylsulfobetaines, (C8-C20)alkylamido(Cl-C6)alkylbetaines, such as cocamidopropyl betaine, and their combinations.

[0116] Particularly useful betaines include (C8-C20)alkylbetaines and (C8-C20)alkylamido(Cl-C6)alkylbetaines, for example, coco-betaine, cocamidopropyl betaine, lauryl betaine, lauryldimethyl betaine, capryl / capramidopropyl betaine, stearyl betaine or mixtures thereof.

[0117] Thus, in certain preferred embodiments, the composition according to the present invention comprises (C8-C20)alkylamido(Cl-C6)alkylbetaines, in particular cocamidopropyl betaine

[0118] Non-ionic surfactants

[0119] The nonionic surfactant may be chosen from among the nonionic alkylpolyglycoside surfactants, in particular represented by a formula (I):

[0120] R1O-(R2O)t-(G)v (I)

[0121] in which:

[0122] - Ri represents a linear or branched alkyl or alkenyl radical comprising 6 to 24 carbon atoms, in particular 8 to 18 carbon atoms, or an alkylphenyl radical whose linear or branched alkyl radical comprises 6 to 24 carbon atoms, and in particular 8 to 18 carbon atoms;

[0123] - R2 represents an alkylene radical comprising 2 to 4 carbon atoms,

[0124] - G is a sugar motif containing 5 to 6 carbon atoms,

[0125] - 1 designates a value from 0 to 10 and preferably from 0 to 4.

[0126] - v designates a value from 1 to 15 and preferably from 1 to 4.

[0127] Preferably, the alkylpolyglycoside surfactants are compounds of formula (I) described above in which:

[0128] - Ri designates a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched alkyl radical, comprising 8 with 18 carbon atoms,

[0129] - R2 represents an alkylene radical comprising 2 to 4 carbon atoms,

[0130] -1 denotes a number from 0 to 3, and preferably equal to 0,

[0131] - G designates glucose, fructose or galactose, preferably glucose,

[0132] - the degree of polymerization, i.e. the value of v, can range from 1 to 15, from preference from 1 to 4; the average degree of polymerization is more particularly between 1 and 2.

[0133] The glycosidic links between the sugar motifs are generally 1-6 or 1-4, preferably 1-4.

[0134] Preferably, the alkylpolyglycoside surfactant is an alkylpolyglucoside surfactant, even more preferably a C8-C16 alkylpolyglucoside, and particularly preferred selected from decylglucosides, caprylyl / capryl glucosides, laurylglucoside, cocoylglucoside, caprylylglucoside and their combinations.

[0135] Among the commercial products, the following may be cited: the products marketed by COGN1S under the names PLANTAREN® (600 CS / U, 1200 and 2000) or PLANTACARE® (818, 1200 and 2000); the products marketed by SEPPIC under the names ORAMIX® CG 11.0 and ORAMIX® NS 10; the products marketed by BASF under the name LUTENSOL GD 70 or the products marketed by the company CHEM Y under the name AGIO LK.

[0136] Preferably, C8-C16 alkylpolyglucosides are used, in particular selected from decylglucoside, caprylyl / capryl glucoside, laurylglucoside, cocoylglucoside, caprylylglucoside and their combinations. Cationic surfactants

[0137] Cationic surfactants are advantageously chosen from primary, secondary or tertiary fatty amine salts optionally polyoxyalkylated, quaternary ammonium salts and mixtures thereof.

[0138] Reference may be made, in particular:

[0139] - quaternary ammonium salts of formula (la): r 4- (la)

[0140] where:

[0141] - the groups R8 to Rn, which may be identical or different, represent a a linear or branched aliphatic group, comprising from 1 to 30 carbon atoms, or an aromatic group such as aryl or alkylaryl, at least one of the groups R8 to Rn comprising from 8 to 30 carbon atoms and preferably from 12 to 24 carbon atoms, the aliphatic groups possibly comprising heteroatoms such as, in particular, oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur and halogens and

[0142] X is an anion that could be selected from the group consisting of halides, phosphates, acetates, lactates, (Cl-C4)alkyl sulfates, (Cl-C4)alkylsulfonates and (Cl-C4)alkylarylsulfonates.

[0143] The aliphatic groups are chosen, for example, from the (Cl-C30)alkyl, (Cl-C30)alkoxy, (C2-C6)polyoxyalkylene, (Cl-C30)alkylamide, (C12-C22)alkyl(C2-C6)alkylamido, (C12-C22)alkylacetate and hydroxy(Cl-C30)alkyl groups.

[0144] Mention may be made of tetraalkylammonium halides, preferably chlorides, such as dialkyldimethylammonium or alkyltrimethylammonium chlorides in which the alkyl group comprises from 12 to 22 carbon atoms, in particular behenyltrimethylammonium, distearyldimethylammonium, cetyltrimethylammonium and benzyldimethylstearylammonium chlorides.

[0145] We can also mention palmitylamidopropyltrimethylammonium halides, preferably chlorides, or stearamidopropyldimethyl(myristyl acetate)-ammonium halides, preferably chlorides; in particular the product marketed under the name Ceraphyl® 70 by the company VAN DYK.

[0146] - quaternary ammonium imidazoline salts having the formula (lia): (lia)

[0147] where:

[0148] - Rn represents an alkenyl or alkyl group comprising 8 to 30 atoms of carbon, for example, derivatives of tallow fatty acids,

[0149] Rn represents a hydrogen atom, a C1-C4 alkyl group or an alkenyl or alkyl group comprising: 8 to 30 carbon atoms;

[0150] RM represents an alkyl group (in C1-C4);

[0151] - Rb represents a hydrogen atom or an alkyl group (in C1-C4),

[0152] X is an anion, preferably chosen from the group consisting of halides, phosphates, acetates, lactates, (Cl-C4)alkyl sulfates, (Cl-C4)alkylsulfonates and (Cl-C4)alkylarylsulfonates;

[0153] R12 and Rn preferably denote a combination of alkenyl or alkyl groups containing 12 to 21 carbon atoms, derived, for example, from tallow fatty acids, Ru denotes a methyl group and R[5 denotes a hydrogen atom. Such a product is marketed, for example, under the name Rewoquat® W 75 by the company Rewo.

[0154] - quaternary salts of di- or triammonium having the formula (Ilia): ........(CH^k.....N—I 2X~ I Rjg I

[0155] where:

[0156] - Ri6 designates an alkyl group comprising 16 to 30 carbon atoms, which is optionally hydroxylated and / or interrupted by one or more oxygen atoms,

[0157] Rn represents a hydrogen atom or an alkyl group containing 1 to 4 carbon atoms or a group -(CH2)3-N+(Ri6a)(Ri7a)(Ri8a), wherein R16a, R17a, R18a, which may be identical or different, are selected from hydrogen and an alkyl group comprising 1 to 4 carbon atoms

[0158] Ri8, R19, R2o and R2B, which may be identical or different, are chosen from hydrogen and an alkyl group comprising 1 to 4 carbon atoms and

[0159] X is an anion preferably selected from the group consisting of halides, acetates, phosphates, nitrates, (C1-C4) alkyl sulfates, (C1-C4) alkylsulfonates and (C1-C4) alkylarylsulfonates, in particular methyl sulfate and ethyl sulfate.

[0160] Such compounds are, for example, Finquat CT-P, marketed by Finetex (Quaternium 89), and Finquat CT, marketed by Finetex (Quaternium 75),

[0161] - quaternary ammonium salts containing one or more ester functions, of formula (IVa) below: iciyoc—r. s O §....... q (o—c, iy oH) f oy-iy x" y (IVa)

[0162] where:

[0163] R22 is selected from the alkyl groups in (C1-C6) and the hydroxyalkyl groups in (C1-C6) or dihydroxy alkyl in (C1-C6);

[0164] R23 is selected from the R26-C(=O)- group; the hydrocarbon groups C1-C22 linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated R27 and a hydrogen atom,

[0165] - R25 is selected from the R28-C(=O)- group; the C1-C6 hydrocarbon groups linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated R29 and a hydrogen atom,

[0166] R24, R26 and R28, which may be identical or different, are chosen from the linear or branched hydrocarbon groups, saturated or unsaturated in C7-C21,

[0167] r, s and t, which may be identical or different, are integers from 2 to 6;

[0168] rl and tl, which may be identical or different, are equal to 0 or 1,

[0169] r² + rl = 2r and tl + t² = 2t,

[0170] y is an integer from 1 to 10,

[0171] x and z, which may be the same or different, are integers from 0 to 10; the sum x + y + z ranges from 1 to 15,

[0172] X is an anion,

[0173] Provided that, when x = 0, in this case 0, R23 denotes R27 and that when z is equal to 0, R25 denotes R29.

[0174] The alkyl groups in R22 may be linear or branched, and more particularly, linear. Preferably, R22 designates a methyl, ethyl, hydroxyethyl or dihydroxypropyl group, and, more particularly, a methyl or ethyl group.

[0175] When R23 is an R27 hydrocarbon group, it may have from 12 to 22 carbon atoms, or may have from 1 to 3 carbon atoms.

[0176] When R25 is an R29n hydrocarbon group, it preferably has 1 to 3 carbon atoms.

[0177] Advantageously, R24, R26 and R28, which may be identical or different, are chosen from linear or branched hydrocarbon groups, saturated or unsaturated in Cl 1-C21, and more particularly, from linear or branched alkyl and alkenyl groups, saturated or unsaturated in C1-C21.

[0178] Preferably, x and z, which may be identical or different, are equal to 0 or 1. Advantageously, y is equal to 1.

[0179] Advantageously, the sum x + y + z is worth from 1 to 10.

[0180] Preferably, r, s and t, which may be identical or different, are equal to 2 or 3, and even more particularly equal to 2.

[0181] The anion X is preferably a halide, preferably a chloride, a bromide or an iodide, a C1-C4 alkyl sulfate, a C1-C4 alkyl sulfonate or a C1-C4 alkylaryl sulfonate, a methanesulfonate, a phosphate, a nitrate, a tosylate, an anion derived from an organic acid, such as acetate or lactate, or any another ammonium-compatible union comprising an ester function. Anion X is more particularly a chloride, methyl sulfate or ethyl sulfate.

[0182] In particular, the composition according to the invention uses ammonium salts of formula (IVa) in which:

[0183] R22 designates a methyl or ethyl group,

[0184] - x and y are equal to 1,

[0185] - z is equal to 0 or 1,

[0186] - r, s and t are equal to 2,

[0187] - R23 is chosen from the R26-C(=O)- group; the methyl groups, the ethyl groups or hydrocarbon groups in the C14-C22 range and a hydrogen atom,

[0188] - R25 is chosen from the group R28-C(=O)- and a hydrogen atom,

[0189] - R24, R26 and R28, which may be identical or different, are chosen from the linear or branched hydrocarbon groups, saturated or unsaturated in C13-C17 and preferably among linear or branched alkyl and alkenyl groups, saturated or unsaturated in C13-C17.

[0190] Hydrocarbon groups are advantageously linear.

[0191] Examples of compounds of formula (IVa) include salts, particularly diacyloxyethyldimethylammonium chloride or methylsulfate, diacyloxyethylhydroxyethylmethylammonium, monoacyloxyethyldibydroxyethylmethylammonium, triacyloxyethylmethylammonium, or monoacyloxyethylhydroxyethyldimethylammonium, and mixtures thereof. The acyl groups preferably contain 14 to 18 carbon atoms and are obtained particularly from a vegetable oil such as palm oil or sunflower oil. When the compound contains several acyl groups, these groups may be identical or different.

[0192] These products are obtained, for example, by direct esterification of triethanolamine, triisopropanolamine, alkyldiethanolamine or alkyldiisopropanolamine, which are optionally oxyalkylated, with fatty acids or with mixtures of fatty acids of vegetable or animal origin, or by transesterification of their methyl esters. This esterification is followed by quaternization using an alkylating agent such as an alkyl halide, preferably a methyl or ethyl halide, a dialkyl sulfate, preferably a methyl or ethyl sulfate, methyl methanesulfonate, methyl para-toluenesulfonate, glycol chlorohydrin or glycerol chlorohydrin. These compounds are marketed, for example, under the names Dehyquart® by Henkel, Stepanquat® by Stepan, Noxamium® by Ceca or "Rewoquat® WE 18" by Rewo-Witco.

[0193] The composition according to the present invention may contain, for example, a mixture of quaternary ammonium monoester, diester, and triester salts, with a weight majority of diester salts. Ammonium salts containing at least one ester function, as described in US patents 4,874,554 and 4,137,180, may also be used. Behenoylhydroxypropyltrimethylammonium chloride, for example, marketed by Kao under the name Quartamin BTC 131, may also be used.

[0194] Preferably, ammonium salts containing at least one ester function contain two ester functions.

[0195] Preferably, the cationic surfactants are selected from compounds of formula (la) and compounds of formula (IVa), preferably from the salts of cetyltrimethylammonium, behenyltrimethylammonium, and dipalmitoylethylhydroxyethylammonium, and mixtures thereof, and, more particularly, from behenyltrimethylammonium chloride or methosulfate, cetyltrimethylammonium chloride or methosulfate, and dipalmitoylethylhydroxyethylammonium chloride or methosulfate and mixtures thereof. Even more preferably, the cationic surfactant is a behenyltrimethylammonium salt.

[0196] Preferably, the composition comprises at least one surfactant selected from anionic sulfate(s), sulfonate(s), carboxylic and carboxylate(s) surfactants, amphoteric betaine surfactants and their combinations;

[0197] preferably selected from anionic surfactants of alkyl sulfates, alkyl ether sulfates, isethionates, acylglycinates, acylglutamates and carboxylates, the alkyl and / or acyl groups of these compounds including from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably from 10 to 22, better still from 10 to 18 carbon atoms, these compounds being able to be polyoxyalkylated; amphoteric surfactants of (C8-C20) alkylbetaines and (C8-C20) alkylamido, (C1-C6) alkylbetaines and their combinations;

[0198] Better still, the composition comprises at least one surfactant selected from anionic acylglycinate, acylglutamate and carboxylate surfactants, their acyl group comprising 10 to 22 carbon atoms and preferably a linear acyl group comprising 10 to 18 carbon atoms; amphoteric (C10-C18)alkylamido(Cl-C6)alkylbetaine surfactants and their combinations.

[0199] Even better, the composition includes at least one surfactant selected from potassium cocoyl glycinate, potassium cocoate, cocamidopropyl betaine and their combinations.

[0200] For the purposes of the present invention, it is preferable that the composition according to the present invention comprise the combination of a (C8-C20)alkylamido(Cl-C6)alkylbetaine, a C10-C18 carboxylate and an acylglycinate.

[0201] It is particularly preferable that the composition according to the present invention comprise cocamidopropyl betaine, potassium cocoate and potassium cocoylglycinate.

[0202] In certain embodiments, the composition according to the present invention comprises the combination of a (C8-C20)alkylamido(Cl-C6)alkylbetaine, a C10-C18 carboxylate, and an acylglycinate, in particular cocamidopropyl betaine, potassium cocoate, and potassium cocoylglycinate, as the sole surfactants, to provide a mild cleanser

[0203] Advantageously, the surfactant is present in the composition according to the present invention in an amount ranging from 1.2% by weight to 40% by weight, preferably from 3% by weight to 30% by weight, and even better from 5% by weight to 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Aqueous phase

[0204] The composition according to the present invention may also comprise at least one aqueous phase.

[0205] The aqueous phase of the composition according to the present invention comprises water and optionally one or more water-miscible compounds or at least partially water-miscible compounds, for example C2-C8 polyols or monoalcohols.

[0206] The term "polyol" should be understood as designating any organic molecule comprising at least two free hydroxyl groups. Examples of polyols that may be mentioned include glycols, for example butylene glycol, propylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, isoprene glycol, hexylene glycol, caprylyl glycol, glycerol (namely glycerin) and polyethylene glycols.

[0207] According to a preferred embodiment, the composition according to the present application further comprises at least one C2-C8 polyol selected from butylene glycol, propylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, isoprene glycol, hexylene glycol, caprylyl glycol, glycerin, polyethylene glycols and mixtures thereof. Preferably, the C2-C8 polyol is glycerin.

[0208] Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one C2-C8 polyol, preferably the C2-C8 polyol is present in an amount ranging from 1% by weight to 70% by weight, preferably from 10% by weight to 40% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0209] The aqueous phase may represent from 30% by weight to 95% by weight, preferably from 40% by weight to 90% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. ADDITIONAL INGREDIENTS

[0210] The composition according to the present invention may include one or more additional ingredients chosen from additives conventionally used in skin cleansers and cosmetic active ingredients.

[0211] Examples of additives traditionally used in skin cleansers include pH correcting agents (e.g., citric acid); antibacterial agents; perfumes; thickeners; colorants, etc.

[0212] Examples of cosmetic active ingredients include humectants, desquamating agents, whitening active ingredients, antioxidants, etc.

[0213] A person skilled in the art can adjust the type and quantity of additional ingredients present in the compositions according to the present invention by means of routine operations, so that the desired properties of these compositions are not negatively affected by the additional ingredients.

[0214] According to a preferred embodiment, the present invention relates to a composition for cleaning and / or removing makeup from keratinous materials, comprising:

[0215] a) from 1.5% by weight to 3% by weight relative to the total weight of the N-stearoylphytosphingosine composition;

[0216] b) from 5% by weight to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition of at least one surfactant selected from anionic acylglycinate and carboxylate surfactants, the acyl group of these being a linear acyl group comprising 10 to 18 carbon atoms; amphoteric (C10-C18)alkylamido(Cl-C6)alkylbetaine surfactants, and their combinations and

[0217] c) from 10% by weight to 40% by weight relative to the total weight of the glycerin composition.

[0218] Preferably, the composition according to the present invention does not include oil.

[0219] The term "oil" refers to a fatty compound or a fatty substance that is in the form of a liquid or a paste (not solid) at room temperature (25 °C) under atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg). These oils may be volatile or non-volatile. Method and use

[0220] The composition according to the present invention can be used in a skin cleansing process, in particular for the face, by application to the skin, in particular for the face.

[0221] The composition according to the present invention may be in the form of a lotion, a cream, a liquid or a gel.

[0222] The composition according to the invention can be applied by any means allowing uniform distribution, in particular with a finger, or a cotton ball, and can be removed by rinsing with water.

[0223] Thus, according to the second aspect, the present invention relates to a skin cleansing process, comprising the application of the composition according to the present invention to the skin and the rinsing off said composition after an optional period of time.

[0224] The present invention is illustrated in more detail by the examples described below, which are given by way of non-limiting illustration. EXAMPLES

[0225] The main raw materials used, trade names and their suppliers are listed in Table 1.

[0226] [Tables 1] INCI name Trade name Supplier glycerin GLICENAT GC K MB OXITENO Cocamidopropyl betaine AMPHOSOL CG-50-X STEPAN Potassium cocoyl glycinate (and) potassium cocoate AMILITE™ GCK-12H AJINOMOTO Sodium hyaluronate CRISTALHYAL LO SOLIANCE (GIVAUDAN) Ceramide NP CERAMIDE III EVONIK GOLDS CHMIDT

[0227] Examples of the invention 1 to 3 and Comparative Examples 1 to 4

[0228] The compositions according to the examples of the invention (IE) 1-3 and the comparative examples (CE) 1-4 comprising the ingredients listed in Table 2 were prepared, all quantities being expressed as percentages by weight of active ingredient relative to the total weight of each composition, unless otherwise indicated.

[0229] [Tables2] Components EL 1 EL 2 EL 3 EC 1 EC 2 EC 3 EC 4 Ceramide NP 1.2 1.5 2.0 1.2 0.9 0 1.2 Potassium cocoyl glycinate (and) potassium cocoate 0 20 20 20 3 20 20 0 Cocamidopropyl betaine 3.8 3.8 3.8 0 3.8 3.8 0 Sodium hyaluronate 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 Glycerin 30 30 30 30 30 30 30 Water QS100 QS100 QS100 QS100 QS100 QS100 QS100

[0230] POTASSIUM COCOYL GLYCINATE (and) POTASSIUM COCOATE 1): comprising 21% by weight of POTASSIUM COCOYL GLYCINATE, 9% by weight of POTASSIUM COCOATE and 70% by weight of water.

[0231] The compositions of the examples of invention l-3 are compositions according to the present invention.

[0232] The composition of comparative example 1 comprises less than 1.0% by weight of a surfactant relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0233] The composition of comparative example 2 comprises less than 1.0% by weight of CERAMIDE NP, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0234] The composition of comparative example 3 does not include CERAMIDE NP.

[0235] The composition of comparative example 4 does not include a surfactant. Preparation method:

[0236] The compositions were prepared as follows, taking as an example the composition of inventive example 1:

[0237] 1). addition of water, glycerin, potassium cocoylglycinate and cocoate of potassium, and cocamidopropyl betaine in a main beaker;

[0238] 2). Addition of sodium hyaluronate to the beaker with shearing and heating to 50#C;

[0239] 3). addition of ceramide NP to the main beaker and

[0240] 4). Add water, then cool the temperature to 30#C for 24 hours. Evaluation of compositions.

[0241] The prepared compositions were evaluated on rinsing speed, crunching sensation, sensory cleansing and skin finish.

[0242] Rinsing speed, crunching sensation, sensory cleansing and skin finish were evaluated by at least 6 volunteers as follows.

[0243] Volunteers are asked to wash their faces with the compositions to be tested. They apply 0.5 g of a composition according to the invention (or a comparative composition) to their face and massage it in with their hands. After lathering, the face is rinsed only with wet hands. The rinsing speed is assessed by the time required to produce a tactile crunching sensation. The shorter the time, the faster the rinsing speed.

[0244] Next, the rinsing speed of each composition was ranked from 1 to 5 according to the time required to achieve a tactile crunch, with level 5 being the fastest.

[0245] Finally, the degree of crunchiness was also assessed and ranked from 1 to 5 by the panelists and averaged, with level 5 being the highest.

[0246] The mathematical average of the rinsing speed and the crunching sensation is marked as "sensory cleaning," with a fast rinse and a strong crunching sensation signifying "clean" in this definition. The cleaning sensation caused by each composition was then rated from 1 to 5, with level 5 being the cleanest.

[0247] After lathering and rinsing, the face was half-covered with a cloth, and then the adhesion (level 5, 5 being the highest), waterproofing (level 1 to 5, 5 being the highest), dryness (level 1 to 5, 5 being the highest), and hydration sensation (level 1 to 5, 5 being the highest) were assessed. Next, the face was wiped dry completely, and the same attributes were reassessed after 5 minutes. The combination of these attributes is marked as a "skin finish." A non-sticky, non-waterproof, non-dry, and hydrated sensation during the half-drying stage and 5 minutes later signifies a "good skin finish" in this definition, and the skin finish was rated from 1 to 5, with level 5 being the best.

[0248] The results are summarized in Table 3.

[0249] [Tables3] ELI Properties El. 2 EI.3 EC.1 EC. 2 EC.3 EC. 4 Rinse Speed ​​3 3 4 2 2 2 1 Crisp Feel 4 5 5 4 3 2 1 Sensory Cleansing 3.5 4 4.5 3 2.5 2 1 Skin Finish 4.5 5 5 3 4 2 3

[0250] Note: For each property in Table 3, the level is acceptable if the level is 3 or higher, and if any of the values ​​for rinsing speed, crunching sensation, sensory cleansing and skin finish is strictly less than 3, the composition is considered unacceptable.

[0251] As can be seen in Table 3, compared to the compositions of comparative examples 1 to 4, the compositions of examples of the invention 1-3 show a faster rinsing speed, a better crunching sensation, a better sensory cleansing experience and a better skin finish.

[0252] In addition, the compositions of examples of the invention 1-3 include materials of natural origin, for example, cocamidopropyl betaine and ceramide NP and are more durable.

Claims

Demands

1. Skin cleansing composition comprising: a) more than 1.0% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition of at least one ceramide-type compound selected from: - 2-N-linoleoylaminooctadecane-1,3-diol, - 2-N-oleoylaminooctadecane-1,3-diol, - 2-N-palmitoylaminooctadecane-1,3-diol, - 2-N-stearoylaminooctadecane-1,3-diol, - 2-N-behenoylaminooctadecane-1,3-diol, - 2-N-[2-hydroxypalmitoyl]aminooctadecane-1,3-diol, - 2-N-stearoylaminooctadecane-1,3,4-triol, and in particular N-stearoylphytosphingosine, - 2-N-palmitoylaminohexadecane-1,3-diol, and a combination thereof, and b) more than 1.0% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition of a combination of the surfactants cocamidopropyl betaine, potassium cocoate and potassium cocoylglycinate.

2. Composition according to claim 1, wherein the ceramide-type compound is present in an amount from 1.2% by weight to 10% by weight, preferably from 1.3% by weight to 5% by weight, and even better from 1.5% by weight to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

3. The composition according to any one of claims 1 or 2 further comprises at least one aqueous phase.

4. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 3, further comprising at least one C2-C8 polyol, preferably selected from butylene glycol, propylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, isoprene glycol, hexylene glycol, caprylyl glycol, glycerin, polyethylene glycols and mixtures thereof.

5. A skin cleansing method comprising applying the composition according to any one of claims 1 to 4 to the skin and rinsing off said composition after an optional period of time.