Water-soluble extract of delipidated pulp of Dialium guineense or Dialium cochinchinense and its cosmetic uses

Abstract

Cosmetic use of extracts of delipidated pulp of Dialium guineense or Dialium cochinchinense of the Fabaceae family with multifunctional effects and intended to be placed in contact with the various superficial parts of the human body.

Description

Title of the invention: Water-soluble extract of delipidated pulp of Dialium guineense or Dialium cochinchinense and its cosmetic uses

[0001] The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition intended to be placed in contact with the various superficial parts of the human body (epidermis, hair and scalp systems, nails, lips and external genital organs) or with the teeth and oral mucosa, with a view exclusively or mainly to cleaning them, perfuming them, changing their appearance, protecting them, keeping them in good condition or correcting body odors, and characterized in that it comprises at least one aqueous, glycerinated or hydroethanolic extract of delipidated pulp of Dialium guineense or Dialium cochinchinense of the Fabaceae family, with the aim of advantageously using a multifunctional active ingredient that allows both,to combat aging and improve skin firmness by slowing down the progression of the keratinocyte cell cycle, as well as to restore and protect the skin barrier function and the microbiota via its microbiome, and to reduce skin imperfections.

[0002] It is known that more and more cosmetics are trying to claim a more organic, more ecological, more natural mode of action with the new ISO 16128 standard, vegan, and even a slow cosmetics approach (ecological, healthy, intelligent, and reasonable) that takes into account the skin's real needs, advocating the use of fewer ingredients to achieve better results, as demonstrated by the current cosmetic trend known as skinimalism, even frugality, positive contributions to the skin, and realistic promises. One response to this concern could then be plant extracts with multiple, multifunctional, and complementary properties that are sufficient on their own and therefore often do not require the addition of other active substances in cosmetic formulations.

[0003] Many people believe that the skin surface to which cosmetics are applied is a dead and inert structure. In fact, this is not the case, and the epidermis, including its outermost stratum corneum, is the site of intense biochemical reactions where activators, inhibitors, and inhibitors of inhibitors maintain a balance and homeostasis that varies with the time of day, the seasons, and age. Each epidermal cell, and particularly the keratinocytes, which are the predominant cells of the epidermis, exhibits a complex and intricate metabolism leading to cell maturation and differentiation under the control of the expression of the 36,000 genes and variants that comprise them.

[0004] It is then easy to imagine the interest of being able to select and test plant substances on the expression of all these genes in order to be able to select the most interesting extracts and develop the most efficient extraction and production methods.

[0005] Among all the plants studied, Dialium guineense or Dialium cochinchinense of the Fabaceae family are rich in trace elements that act as a food supplement to stimulate vitality and energy and are also used to increase lactation.

[0006] One of the aims of the invention is to provide a non-greasy composition for topical use.

[0007] Another object of the invention is to propose the use of such a composition in the context of a cosmetic application.

[0008] It is from the observation that very often plants, and particularly their fruits, contain a significant amount of lipids which hinder the release of substances of interest and require the use of complex solvents other than simple water, hydroethanolic solvents or vegetable glycerin that the idea came about to separate, beforehand, these lipids from the rest of the plant to be extracted.

[0009] It was by studying the properties of different water-soluble extracts of pulp of Dialium guineense or Dialium cochinchinense, after delipidation obtained after one or more successive cold pressings, on the expression of genes of normal human keratinocytes that the applicant discovered quite unexpectedly that these extracts of Dialium guineense or Dialium cochinchinense had many properties of interest to healthy skin and therefore to cosmetics particularly those concerned with minimalist formulas using multifunctional actives since a given extract could have many complementary properties and reduce the use of many different active substances.

[0010] In the context of the invention, a water-soluble extract of a plant or part of a plant, such as seeds, is understood to be the result of any extraction in a water-soluble solvent, such as water itself, a hydroethanolic solution, or glycerin, and which can serve as a cosmetically acceptable vehicle and therefore be directly formulatable to produce a final cosmetic composition. These extracts can be formulated directly at concentrations of approximately 0.1% to 5%, or stored in a dry state after evaporation of the water or water plus ethanol, or even as is in the case of a glycerin solvent.

[0011] The invention therefore relates to a cosmetic composition comprising a water-soluble extract of delipidated pulp of Dialium guineense or Dialium cochinchinense of the Fabaceae family and a cosmetically acceptable vehicle.

[0012] Therefore, a cosmetic or pharmaceutical composition intended to be placed in contact with the various superficial parts of the human body (epidermis, hair and scalp systems, nails, lips and external genital organs) or with the teeth and oral mucosa, with a view exclusively or mainly to cleaning them, perfuming them, changing their appearance, protecting them,to maintain them in good condition or to correct body odors and characterized in that it comprises at least one water-soluble extract of delipidated pulp of Dialium guineense or Dialium cochinchinense of the Fabaceae family with the aim of advantageously using a multifunctional active ingredient that both combats aging and improves epidermal firmness by slowing down the progression of the keratinocyte cell cycle, as well as restoring and protecting the skin barrier function and the microbiota via its microbiome, and reducing skin imperfections.

[0013] The applicant has indeed tested several aqueous or hydroethanolic extracts of delipidated pulp of Dialium guineense or Dialium cochinchinense on the complete genome of normal human keratinocytes, and particularly by genome-wide gene expression analysis (36,000 transcribed genes and variants) of normal human epidermal keratinocytes following the extraction of total transcribed Ribonucleic Acids (RNA) followed by hybridization on Deoxyribonucleic Acid (DNA) microarrays. The principle of the DNA microarray is based on the property of denatured DNA (single strand) to spontaneously reform its double helix when in the presence of a complementary strand (hybridization reaction).Since it is possible to attach up to a million probes to a biochip, DNA chips constitute a massive approach that the inventor used because they allow, in a single experiment, an estimate of the expression of tens of thousands of genes.

[0014] Advantageously, said cosmetically acceptable vehicle is also that used as solvent during extraction and is chosen from water with or without enzyme, a hydroethanolic solution or a water / glycerol mixture.

[0015] Also advantageously, said water-soluble extract of pulp of Dialium guineense or Dialium cochinchinense of the Fabaceae family is made from pulp previously delipidated by cold pressing, one to three times successively, in order to obtain a content of 3% or less by mass of lipids in relation to the total mass of the pulp.

[0016] Even more advantageously, said water-soluble extract of delipidated pulp of Dialium guineense or Dialium cochinchinense of the Fabaceae family comprises less than 1% by mass of lipids relative to the total mass of the extract, in particular from 0% to 1% by mass of lipids relative to the total mass of the extract.

[0017] In the context of the invention, "from 0% to 1% by mass of lipids" means that the extract may comprise 0, 0.25, 0.5, 0.75, 1% by mass of lipid relative to the mass of the extract.

[0018] Also within the scope of the invention, said delipidated pulp extract of Dialium guineense or Dialium cochinchinense of the Fabaceae family has been made water-soluble by solubilization in a solvent chosen from water with or without enzyme, a hydroethanolic solution or a water / glycerol mixture before being able to be used as is in the composition or stored after complete drying before being resolubilized in these same cosmetically acceptable solvents before use.

[0019] Advantageously, the composition is characterized in that said water-soluble extract of delipidated pulp of Dialium guineense or Dialium cochinchinense of the Fabaceae family represents from 0.1% to 5% by mass relative to the total mass of the composition.

[0020] In the context of the invention, "from 0.1% to 5% by mass" means that the composition may comprise 0.1, 0.2, 0.3, 0.4, 0.5, 0.6, 0.7, 0.8, 0.9, 1, 1.1, 1.2, 1.3, 1.4, 1.5, 1.6, 1.7, 1.8, 1.9, 2, 2.1, 2.2, 2.3, 2.4, 2.5, 2.6, 2.7, 2.8, 2.9, 3, 3.1, 3.2, 3.3, 3.4, 3.5, 3.6, 3.7, 3.8, 3.9, 4, 4.1, 4.2, 4.3, 4.4, 4.5, 4.6, 4.7, 4.8, 4.9 or 5% by mass of delipidated extract relative to the total mass of the composition.

[0021] The effects of different plant extracts on gene expression in Normal Human Epidermal Keratinocytes (NHEK) were investigated. More specifically, a full transcriptome analysis, i.e., the analysis of all genes expressed at a given time, was performed using the Affymetrix GeneAtlas platform and the U219 "full human transcriptome" chip containing 36,000 so-called transcribed genes and variants.

[0022] This method, described in more detail in the examples below, allows us to choose, based on the genes stimulated, i.e. whose expression is significantly increased, or inhibited, i.e. whose expression is significantly reduced, the most interesting plants for cosmetic use and which has shown the interest of Dialium guineense or Dialium cochinchinense of the Fabaceae family among other plants thus tested.

[0023] Then, by taking the most interesting gene or genes, this method makes it possible to select the optimum protocol(s) in order to obtain the best possible results. Here, for Dialium guineense or Dialium cochinchinense from the Fabaceae family, the Insulin-like Growth Factor Binding Protein 3 (IGFBP3) gene was used to determine that it was the delipidated pulp, subsequently extracted in a simple solvent, that allowed for an increase in expression of more than 568% upon contact with normal human keratinocytes (NHEK). The relative expression of this IGFBP3 gene in control keratinocytes had a signal intensity of 38.09 while in keratinocytes brought into contact with the water-soluble extract of Dialium guineense or Dialium cochinchinense thus selected had a signal intensity of 978.01, i.e. a stimulation of the expression of this gene called fold change or rate of modification, under the experimental conditions of 25.67 times.

[0024] This made it possible to determine an optimum when the extraction was carried out in simple solvents such as water, hydroethanolic mixtures in which the ethanol is then recycled after complete evaporation or mixtures of water and glycerin, whose moisturizing properties for the skin are well established.

[0025] These tests show the interest of a cosmetic composition characterized in that it consists of a water-soluble extract of delipidated pulp of Dialium guineense or Dialium cochinchinense of the Fabaceae family, obtained by dehulling the pod and then depulping itself followed by sieving in order to separate the hard seed which will not be used.The pulp, thus separated and sieved, is dried and then delipidated by one or more cold pressings, followed by oven drying for 1 to 5 hours at a temperature between 50°C and 60°C to prevent the proliferation of microorganisms, then by extraction or maceration in water with or without added enzymes, a hydroethanolic solution or a water / glycerol mixture or even maceration in glycerol alone, and can then be filtered or centrifuged and stored and used directly in its respective solvent or again dried or lyophilized or even zeodrated, the effect after topical application on healthy skin is to combat its aging and improve its epidermal firmness by slowing down the progression of the keratinocyte cell cycle as well as to restore and protect its skin barrier function, its microbiota via its microbiome as well as to reduce its skin imperfections.

[0026] The invention also relates to a water-soluble extract of delipidated pulp of Dialium guineense or Dialium cochinchinense of the Fabaceae family characterized in that it comprises water with or without enzyme, a hydroethanolic solution or a water / glycerol mixture and that it is prepared from 10% by weight of delipidated pulp which has then been dried.

[0027] This allows for obtaining a water-soluble extract of delipidated pulp of Dialium guineense or Dialium cochinchinense of the Fabaceae family, characterized in that it is intended to be applied to healthy skin to strengthen and promote the fight against aging and the improvement of epidermal firmness by slowing down the progression of the keratinocyte cell cycle, as well as restoring and protecting the skin barrier function and the microbiota via its microbiome as well as reducing skin imperfections.

[0028] Or more precisely a water-soluble extract of delipidated pulp of Dialium guineense or Dialium cochinchinense of the Fabaceae family for the treatment or prevention of negative effects caused by under-expression of Insulin-like Growth Factor Binding Protein 3 (IGFBP3), Desmoglein 1 (DSG1) and chromosome 10 open rEDGing frame 99 (10orf99) or, conversely, in the context of over-expression of genes promoting skin problems such as Structural maintenance of Chromosome 4 (SMC4).

[0029] Indeed, the Insulin-like Growth Factor Binding Protein 3 (IGFBP3) has a decreasing level of expression in senescent cells or cells whose aging has been induced by H2O2 compared with young cells. Chromosome 10 open rEDGing frame 99 (10orf99) codes for peptides that enable the body's natural defense response against bacteria, particularly Gram-positive bacteria, as well as fungi. It regulates the pro-inflammatory response and participates in the skin barrier and the proper functioning of the microbiota via its microbiome. Desmoglein, on the other hand, is a desmosomal protein naturally encoded by the DSG1 gene, predominantly expressed in the outermost layers of the epidermis. It is responsible for the adhesive properties of the desmosomes, which act as snap fasteners, ensuring the cell-cell junction essential for the skin's barrier function and cohesion. Its production is also stimulated by this hydrophilic and water-soluble extract of Dialium guineense or Dialium cochinchinense pulp. Structural maintenance of Chromosome 4 (SMC4) is a gene encoding a protein that maintains the structure of chromosome 4, the overexpression of which is detrimental to cellular and tissue function: Qncogenesis.2017 Mar; 6(3): e301. doi: 10.1038 / oncsis.2017.

[0030] The invention further relates to the cosmetic use of water-soluble extract of delipidated pulp of Dialium guineense or Dialium cochinchinense of the Fabaceae family intended for use in the treatment or prevention of negative effects caused by under-expression of Insulin-like Growth Factor Binding Protein 3 (IGFBP3), Desmoglein 1 (DSG1) and chromosome 10 open rEDGing frame 99 (10orf99) or, conversely, in the context of over-expression of genes promoting problems such as Structural maintenance of Chromosome 4 (SMC4) optimized by the analysis of gene expression at the genome level (36000 transcribed genes and variants) of normal human epidermal keratinocytes and by hybridization on DNA microarrays.

[0031] The invention further relates to the cosmetic use of a water-soluble extract of delipidated pulp of Dialium guineense or Dialium cochinchinense of the Fabaceae family, intended to induce inhibition of the proliferation / division / progression processes of the cell cycle and a pro-differentiating effect by increasing the expression of genes involved in the process of epidermal maturation and differentiation (KLK7, SPRR1A, IB, 2A, 2D, CRABP2, TGM1, KRT10), given that: SPRR1A, IB, 2A and 2D correspond to a set of small proteins released during the maturation or differentiation of keratinocytes and which are then taken up by transglutaminases at the level of the stratum corneum to form the corneal envelope surrounding the keratinocytes, giving them sufficient rigidity to allow good cohesion and therefore an essential barrier effect as well as a beautiful appearance on the surface of the skin, KRT 7 and 10 for Keratin7 and Keratin 10 which are cytokeratins and intermediate filaments of the cytoskeleton playing an important role in maintaining the skin barrier, keratinization and epidermal co-formation. TGM 1 is the gene that produces Transglutaminase 1, an enzyme that allows the polymerization of the different molecules that form the envelope of corneocytes, such as keratins 7 and 10 and small SPRR-type proteins. The epidermis therefore sees its keratinocytes differentiate better, its horny envelopes form better, as a result of which the skin will be more beautiful on the surface, more resistant to the harmful effects of aging and presenting a better quality barrier effect.

[0032] Advantageously, the invention relates to the non-therapeutic cosmetic use of a composition, for topical application on healthy skin with the aim of advantageously using a multifunctional active ingredient that both combats aging and improves epidermal firmness by slowing down the progression of the keratinocyte cell cycle, as well as restoring and protecting the skin barrier function and the microbiota via its microbiome and reducing skin imperfections.

[0033] For cosmetic use, the interest then becomes apparent in a composition comprising a water-soluble extract of delipidated pulp of Dialium guineense or Dialium cochinchinense of the Fabaceae family, characterized in that the composition is in the form of an oil-in-water (O / W) or water-in-oil (W / O) emulsion, a multiple emulsion (O / W / O, W / O / O), a microemulsion, a twin-phase emulsion, a PIT emulsion, a nanoemulsion, a pseudoemulsion, an aqueous gel, a fatty gel, a hydroalcoholic gel, a suspension, a lyophilized gel or emulsion, and / or one of the preceding forms containing microcapsules, nanocapsules, liposomes, ethosomes and can be presented as creams, serums, liquids, pastes, lotions, emulsions, gels, solids, powders, masks, sticks, sprays, aerosols.

[0034] As well as a composition comprising a water-soluble extract of delipidated pulp of Dialium guineense or Dialium cochinchinense of the Fabaceae family, said composition being in the form of a two-phase micellar makeup remover, a foaming gel, a jelly lotion, an exfoliant, a moisturizing cream, a moisturizing serum, a wrinkle-enhancing serum, a moisturizing body lotion, a regenerating mask, a regenerating cream, a slimming body cream, an anti-aging cream, a regenerating serum, a balm, a mist, an eye treatment, a concentrate, or a detoxifying mask.

[0035] All this therefore allows the cosmetic use of a water-soluble extract of delipidated pulp of Dialium guineense or Dialium cochinchinense of the Fabaceae family characterized in that the composition is applied to healthy skin, with the aim of advantageously using a multifunctional active ingredient which allows both to better fight against aging and to improve epidermal firmness by slowing down the progression of the keratinocyte cell cycle as well as to restore and protect the skin barrier function and the microbiota via its microbiome as well as to reduce skin imperfections.

[0036] A cosmetic skincare method for healthy skin to advantageously utilize a multifunctional active ingredient that both better combats aging and improves epidermal firmness by slowing down the progression of the keratinocyte cell cycle, as well as restoring and protecting the skin barrier function and the microbiota via its microbiome, and reducing skin imperfections, comprising the topical administration of a cosmetic composition made from a water-soluble extract of delipidated pulp of Dialium guineense or Dialium cochinchinense and optimized by using whole-genome expression analysis of cultured human keratinocytes (NHEK) in order to determine all of its properties, as well as the optimization of its preparations, the association of enzymes or not during the extraction or maceration steps, and the benefit or not of prior roasting.the percentage of pulp defatted and dried, or the nature of the final drying process, characterized both by increased expression of certain genes of interest and by decreased expression of other genes of interest.

[0037] Examples are given below without being limiting in order to illustrate the invention.

[0038] Example 1. Obtaining water-soluble extracts of delipidated pulp of Dialium guineense or Dialium cochinchinense. Extracts of defatted pulp from Dialium guineense or Dialium cochinchinense of the Fabaceae family are made by peeling the pod and then depulping followed by sieving to separate the hard seed which will not be used. The pulp thus separated and sieved is then dried and delipidated by one or more cold pressings, followed by drying in an oven for 1 to 5 hours at a temperature between 50°C and 60°C to avoid the proliferation of microorganisms, then by extraction or maceration in water with or without added enzymes, a hydroethanolic solution or a water / glycerol mixture or even maceration in glycerol alone and can then be filtered or centrifuged and stored and used directly in its respective solvent or dried again or freeze-dried or even zeodrated. They can therefore include water with or without enzyme, a hydroethanolic solution or a water / glycerol mixture and be prepared from 10% by weight of delipidated pulp then dried from the solvent used for extraction or maceration. These extracts can be tested directly or they can be dried, dehydrated, freeze-dried or zeodrated before testing. In the latter cases they are rehydrated or diluted with purified water acting as a solvent. We will call EDG (for Extract of Dialium Guineense or Dialium cochinchinense) the extracts obtained and used in the following examples.

[0039] Example 2. Tests and examples of results. The biological model: Third-pass normal human epidermal keratinocytes (NHEK) cultured at 37°C and 5% CO2. Culture medium supplemented with EGF at 0.25 ng / ml and EP at 25 µg plus gentamicin 25 µg. The test medium consists of SFM keratinocytes with only gentamicin 25 µg / ml. Experimental conditions: Third-pass normal human epidermal keratinocytes (NHEK) cultured at 37°C and 5% CO2. Culture medium supplemented with EGF at 0.25 ng / ml and EP at 25 µg plus gentamicin 25 µg. The test medium consists of SFM keratinocytes with only gentamicin 25 µg / ml. Experimental conditions: Keratinocytes were seeded in 24-well plates and cultured in culture medium for 24 hours, then in test medium for an additional 24 hours. The medium was then replaced with test medium containing or not (control) the compounds under investigation, and the cells were incubated for 24 hours. All experimental conditions were performed in triplicate (n=3). At the end of incubation, the culture supernatants were removed and the cell mats were rinsed with a PBS solution. The plate was immediately frozen dry at -80°C. Prior to extraction, the culture replicates were pooled. Total RNA from each sample was extracted using TriPure Isolation Reagent® according to the protocol recommended by the supplier. The quantity and quality of RNA were assessed by capillary electrophoresis (Bioanalyzer 2100, Agilent). The synthesis of biotinylated antisense RNAs (aRNAs) was carried out using the "GeneChip 3'IVT Express" kit (Affymetrix®). For each biotinylated RNA sample, an electrophoretic profile was performed (Bioanalyzer 2100, Agilent) before and after fragmentation. The hybridization of labeled and fragmented RNAs on the Affymetrix® U219 chip (36,000 transcripts and variants) was carried out on the GeneAtlas™ fluidics Affymetrix ® hybridization station for 20 hours at 45 °C. The U219 chips were then scanned using the GeneAtlas™ Imaging station (Affymetrix® - 2 pm resolution) to generate signal intensity data as shown in the result examples below. Signal intensity data were normalized using Expression Console software (Affymetrix®), based on the RMA algorithm. Quality control of the labeling and hybridization was then performed. Quality controls of the hybridization and labeling steps validated the experimental process Once normalized with Expression Console software, the data were transferred and formatted in a Microsoft Excel file. Calculations and filters have been added to these files to sort the data and facilitate its use. The "fold change" thresholds or rate of change (value corresponding to the ratio: signal intensity value of a probe corresponding to the treated sample / signal intensity value of a probe corresponding to the control) were defined and applied to the normalized data. The following abbreviations are used in the analysis files: - UR: Upregulated - overexpression or stimulation of the probe or gene when the fold change is greater than 2, - DR: Downregulated - underexpression or inhibition of the probe or gene when the fold change is less than 0.5. Each analysis file consists of: - The signal intensity value (RE: Relative Expression) corresponding to each of the samples, - Calculations of "fold change" or change rate for each comparison, - Information relating to each gene. The filters inserted into these files allow the selection of significantly modulated genes. The example of gene probes corresponding to the variation in expression of IGFBP3 (2 variants), DSG1, 10orf99 and SMC4, thus obtained with this methodology. With EDG for the delipidated pulp extract of Dialium guineense or Dialium cochinchinense, the numbers indicated correspond to the signal intensity obtained for the control and for the EDG test: Signal intensity for Growth Factor Binding Protein 3 (IGFBP3), probe 1: - Witness: 38.09 - EDG: 978.08 - Change rate: 25.67 - Regulation: UR Signal intensity for Growth Factor Binding Protein 3 (IGFBP3), probe 2: - Witness: 32.66 - EDG: 747.58 - Change rate: 22.89 - Regulation: UR Signal intensity for Desmoglein 1 (DSG1): - Witness: 37.34 - EDG: 285.50 - Change rate: 7.65 - Regulation: UR Signal intensity for Chromosome 10 open rEDGing frame 99 (10orf99): - Witness: 25.14 - EDG: 184.49 - Change rate: 7.34 - Regulation: UR Signal intensity for Structural Maintenance of Chromosome 4 (SMC4): - Witness: 387.92 - EDG: 66.56 - Change rate: 0.17 - Regulation: DR

[0040] In the examples below, which provide examples of how to prepare these compositions, although this list is not exhaustive, the following abbreviations will be used: EDG for Extract of delipidated pulp of Dialium Guineense or Dialium cochinchinense

[0041] Example 3. According to a first embodiment of the invention, the composition comprises: Carboxypolymethylene or carboxylic polymer..................0.40 g Diethanolamine cetylphosphate............................................1.50g Octyl dodecanol............................................................5.50 g Cetyl alcohol..................................................................1.00 g Mineral oil.................................................................2.00 g Stearic acid............................................................1.00 g Sterylic alcohol ethoxylate (20 E)...........................................0.30 g Ketostearyl alcohol....................................................1.80 g Preservative................................................................0.15 g Solom Oil..............................................................0.50 g Triethanolamine..........................................................0.60 g Cyclomethicone............................................................12.00 g Dimethicone copolyol........................................................3.00 g Phenyl trimeticone...........................................................2.00 g EDG................................................................................3.00 g Dextran.........................................................................1.00 g Glycerin.............................................................................2.00 g Demineralized water qsp........................................................100 g After 4 weeks of use on 30 volunteers, skin appeared smoother just 2 hours after each application. At the end of the treatment, the number, length, and width of wrinkles had significantly decreased, and 92% of users reported more hydrated skin.

[0042] Example 4. According to a second embodiment of the invention, the composition comprises: - Acrylate C10-30........................................................0.50 g - Arginine............................................................0.001g - Glycerin..................................................................................1.00 g - EDG.........................................................................................0.20 g - Alcohol..................................................................2.00 g - Carbomer................................................................................0.126 g - EDTA..............................................................................................0.005 g - Preservative......................................................................0.867 g - Solom oil..........................................................................0.5 g - Hydrogenated lecithin.....................................................0.09 g - Hyaluronic acid....................................................................0.20 g - TEA 99%...................................................................................0.62 g - Colorings...................................................................0.0002 g - Demineralized water qsp.................................................................100 g After 4 weeks of use, 30 volunteers aged 20 to 70 years old saw their skin appear significantly more hydrated and more beautiful.

[0043] Example 5. Oil-in-water emulsion: - Liquid paraffin....................................................6 g - Liquid lanolin................................................................3 g - Arlacel 165................................................................6 g - Tween 60...................................................................2 g - Cetyl alcohol................................................................1.2 g - Stearic acid.................................................2.5 g - Arginine........................................................................0.5 g - Volatile silicone oil...................................................10 g - Triethanolamine................................................................0.1 g - Preservative....................................................................0.3 g - EDG..............................................................................5 g - Hyaluronic acid.......................................................0.5 g - Demineralized water qsp.....................................................100 g After 4 weeks of twice-daily use by 30 volunteers aged 33 to 70, the skin appeared significantly more toned and firmer for 100% of them. users.

[0044] Example 6. Liposome cream: - Cetyl alcohol.............................................................................4 g - B-sitosterol...................................................................................4 g - Dicetyl phosphate................................................................................0.5 g - Preservative..............................................................................0.3 g - Carbopol 981 ...................................................................0.2 g - Triethanolamine.........................................................................0.2 g - Phospholipid........................................................................................0.05 g - EDG..................................................................................1.5 g - Demineralized water qsp................................................................100 g After use on a panel of 30 volunteers aged 18 to 70, the skin appeared significantly hydrated during the 3 hours of the first application, softer and younger-looking for 65% of users after 4 weeks of daily use.

[0045] Example 7. Water / Oil Emulsion: - Protein.......................................................................19g - Glycerin....................................................................................3 g - Vaseline oil.........................................................................8 g - Mg sulfate.........................................................................0.5 g - EDG...................................................................................0.5 g - Hyaluronic acid.................................................................0.02 g - Preservative..............................................................2 g - Demineralized water qsp.............................................................100 g

[0046] Example 8. O / W gel emulsion. - Carbopol 981 .........................................................0.6 g - Ethyl alcohol..........................................................................15 g - Volatile silicone oil...............................................................3 g - Baobab oil.............................................................................7 g - Preservative............................................................0.3 g - Perfume...................................................................0.4 g -EDG..........................................................................................0.1g - Triethanolamine........................................................................0.2 g - Demineralized water qsp.................................................................100 g

[0047] Example 9. Glycerin Concentrate - Glycerin.....................................................................65 g -EDG..................................................................................................5 g - Arginine........................................................................................1 g - Hyaluronic acid...........................................................1 g - Perfume.............................................................................0.4 g - Demineralized water qsp.................................................................100 g

Claims

Demands

1. Cosmetic composition comprising a water-soluble extract of delipidated pulp, obtained by cold pressing one to three times successively comprising less than 1% lipid, of Dialium guineense or Dialium cochinchinense of the Fabaceae family representing 0.1% to 5% by mass relative to the total mass of this composition and a cosmetically acceptable vehicle which advantageously may be that used as a solvent during the extraction and is chosen from water with or without enzyme, a hydroethanolic solution or a water / glycerol mixture.

2. Cosmetic composition according to claim 1, wherein said cosmetically acceptable vehicle is also that used as solvent during extraction and is selected from water with or without enzyme, a hydroethanolic solution or a water / glycerol mixture.

3. Cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 2 characterized in that said water-soluble extract of pulp of Dialium guineense or Dialium cochinchinense of the Fabaceae family is made from pulp previously delipidated by cold pressing, one to three times successively, in order to obtain a content of 3% or less by mass of lipids relative to the total mass of the pulp.

4. Cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 3 characterized in that said water-soluble extract of delipidated pulp of Dialium guineense or Dialium cochinchinense of the Fabaceae family comprises less than 1% by mass of lipids relative to the total mass of the extract, in particular from 0% to 1% by mass of lipids relative to the total mass of the extract.

5. Cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 4 characterized in that said delipidated pulp extract of Dialium guineense or Dialium cochinchinense of the Fabaceae family has been made water-soluble by solubilization in a solvent selected from water with or without enzyme, a hydroethanolic solution or a water / glycerol mixture before being used as is in the composition or stored after complete drying before being resolubilized in these same cosmetically acceptable solvents before use.

6. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 5 characterized in that said water-soluble extract of delipidated pulp of Dialium guineense or Dialium cochinchinense of the Fabaceae family represents from 0.1% to 5% by mass relative to the total mass of the composition.

7. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 6, wherein the composition is in the form of an oil-in-water (O / W) or water-in-oil (W / O) emulsion, multiple emulsion (O / W / O, W / O / O), microemulsion, twin-phase emulsion, PIT emulsion, nanoemulsion, pseudoemulsion, aqueous gel, oily gel, hydroalcoholic gel, suspension, lyophilized gel or emulsion and / or any of the preceding forms containing microcapsules, nanocapsules, liposomes, ethosomes and may be in the form of creams, serums, liquids, pastes, lotions, emulsions, gels, solids, powders, masks, sticks, sprays, aerosols.

8. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 6, said composition being in the form of a two-phase micellar makeup remover, a foaming gel, a jelly lotion, an exfoliant, a moisturizing cream, a hydrating serum, a wrinkle-enhancing serum, a moisturizing body lotion, a regenerating mask, a regenerating cream, a slimming body cream, an anti-aging cream, a regenerating serum, a balm, a mist, an eye treatment, a concentrate, or a detoxifying mask.

9. Non-therapeutic cosmetic use of a composition as defined in any one of claims 1 to 8, for topical application on healthy skin with the aim of advantageously utilizing a multifunctional active ingredient that both combats aging and improves epidermal firmness by slowing down the progression of the keratinocyte cell cycle, as well as restoring and protecting the skin barrier function and the microbiota via its microbiome and reducing skin imperfections.

10. A cosmetic skincare method for healthy skin that advantageously utilizes a multifunctional active ingredient to both better combat aging and improve epidermal firmness by slowing the progression of the keratinocyte cell cycle, as well as to restore and protect the skin barrier function and the microbiota via its microbiome, and to reducing skin imperfections including the topical administration of a cosmetic composition made from a water-soluble extract of delipidated pulp of Dialium guineense or Dialium cochinchinen. This is obtained and optimized by using full genome expression analysis of cultured human keratinocytes to determine all of its properties as well as the optimization of its preparations, the association of enzymes or not during the extraction or maceration steps, the interest or not of prior roasting, the % of delipidated and dried pulp or the nature of the final drying and characterized both by an increase in the expression of certain genes of interest and by a decrease in the expression of other genes of interest. The epidermis therefore sees its keratinocytes differentiate better, its horny envelopes form better, as a result of which the skin will be more beautiful on the surface, more resistant to the harmful effects of aging and presenting a better quality barrier effect.