Water-soluble extracts of delipidated fruits or seeds of African Xylopia aethiopica from the Annonaceae family and its cosmetic uses.

Abstract

Cosmetic use of water-soluble extracts of delipidated fruits or seeds of African Xylopia aethiopica of the Annonaceae family with multifunctional effects and intended to be placed in contact with the various superficial parts of the human body.

Description

Title of the invention: Water-soluble extracts of delipidated fruits or seeds of African Xylopia aethiopica of the Annonaceae family and its cosmetic uses.

[0001] The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition intended to be placed in contact with the various superficial parts of the human body (epidermis, hair and scalp systems, nails, lips and external genital organs) or with the teeth and oral mucosa, with a view exclusively or mainly to cleaning them, perfuming them, changing their appearance, protecting them, keeping them in good condition or correcting body odors and characterized in that it comprises at least one aqueous, glycerinated or hydroalcoholic extract of delipidated fruits or seeds of African Xylopia aethiopica of the Annonaceae family in order to advantageously use a multifunctional active ingredient which simultaneously reduces aging, strengthens the skin's barrier effect, its cohesion and its homeostasis,to slow down epidermal proliferation in order to give it more time to develop properly, while promoting its proper maturation and differentiation, including that of the stratum corneum, in order to also protect the extracellular matrices and ensure proper collagen formation, contributing to improved skin firmness.

[0002] It is known that more and more cosmetics are trying to claim a more organic, more ecological, more natural mode of action with the new ISO 16128 standard, vegan, and even a slow cosmetics approach (ecological, healthy, intelligent, and reasonable) that takes into account the skin's real needs, advocating the use of fewer ingredients to achieve better results, even frugality, positive contributions for the skin, and realistic promises. One response to this concern could then be plant extracts with multiple, multifunctional, and complementary properties that are sufficient on their own and therefore often do not require the addition of other active substances in cosmetic formulations.

[0003] Many people believe that the skin surface to which cosmetics are applied is a dead and inert structure. In fact, this is not the case, and the epidermis, including its surface stratum corneum, is the site of intense biochemical reactions where activators, inhibitors, and inhibitors of inhibitors ensure a balance and homeostasis that varies with the time of day, the seasons, and age. Each of the epidermal cells, and particularly the keratinocytes, which are the predominant cells of the epidermis, exhibits a complex and intricate metabolism leading to a maturation and cellular differentiation under the control of the expression of the 36,000 genes and variants that compose them.

[0004] It is then easy to imagine the interest of being able to select and test plant substances on the expression of all these genes in order to be able to select the most interesting extracts and develop the most efficient extraction and production methods. Of all the plants studied, the African Xylopia aethiopica, from the Annonaceae family, has numerous well-known properties and is commonly used in tropical Africa as a spice and for the medicinal properties of its fruits and seeds. Analysis of the fatty acids in the seeds confirms the absence of toxic compounds, thus justifying the widespread use of the fruits in food. The curative properties of the Xylopia aethiopica fruit are attributed to its antimicrobial and antifungal effects. Its dried fruit is used as a spice and for its medicinal properties, particularly against influenza, bronchitis, and dysentery. It is also recommended for relieving eye-related conditions. In Senegal, it is used to flavor Touba coffee, a drink that has become traditional.

[0005] One of the aims of the invention is to provide a non-greasy composition because there is an obvious benefit in use for the skin and the user.

[0006] Another object of the invention is to propose the use of such a composition in the context of a cosmetic application.

[0007] It is from the observation that very often plants, and particularly their seeds, contain a significant amount of lipids which hinder the release of substances of interest and require the use of complex solvents other than simple water, hydroethanolic solvents or vegetable glycerin that the idea came about to separate, beforehand, these lipids from the rest of the plant to be extracted.

[0008] It was by studying the properties of different water-soluble extracts of fruits or seeds of Xylopia aethiopica after delipidation obtained after one or more successive cold pressings, on the expression of genes of normal human keratinocytes that the applicant discovered quite unexpectedly that these extracts of Xylopia aethiopica have many properties of interest to healthy skin and therefore to cosmetics particularly those concerned with minimalist formulas using multifunctional active ingredients since a given extract could have many complementary properties and reduce the use of many different active substances.

[0009] Therefore, a cosmetic or pharmaceutical composition intended to be placed in contact with the various superficial parts of the human body (epidermis, hair and scalp systems, nails, lips and external genital organs) or with Teeth and oral mucous membranes, exclusively or primarily intended to clean, perfume, modify their appearance, protect them, maintain them in good condition, or correct body odor, and characterized in that it comprises at least one water-soluble extract of delipidated fruits or seeds of African Xylopia aethiopica of the Annonaceae family, with the aim of advantageously utilizing a multifunctional active ingredient that simultaneously reduces aging, strengthens the skin's barrier function, cohesion, and homeostasis, slows epidermal proliferation to allow more time for proper development, and promotes its proper maturation and differentiation, including that of the stratum corneum. It also aims to protect the extracellular matrices and promote the proper formation of their collagen, contributing to improved skin firmness.

[0010] The applicant has indeed tested several aqueous or hydroethanolic extracts of Xylopia aethiopica against the complete genome of normal human keratinocytes, and particularly by genome-wide gene expression analysis (36,000 transcribed genes and variants) of normal human epidermal keratinocytes following the extraction of total transcribed Ribonucleic Acids (RNA) and subsequent hybridization on Deoxyribonucleic Acid (DNA) microarrays. The principle of the DNA microarray is based on the property of denatured DNA (single strand) to spontaneously reform its double helix when in the presence of a complementary strand (hybridization reaction). Since it is possible to attach up to a million probes to a biochip, DNA chips constitute a massive approach that the inventor used because they allow in a single experiment to have an estimate on the expression of tens of thousands of genes.

[0011] The invention therefore relates to a cosmetic composition comprising a water-soluble extract of delipidated fruits or seeds of African Xylopia aethiopica of the Annonaceae family and a cosmetically acceptable vehicle.

[0012] Advantageously, said cosmetically acceptable vehicle is also that used as solvent during extraction and is chosen from water with or without enzyme, a hydroethanolic solution or a water / glycerol mixture.

[0013] Also advantageously, said water-soluble extract of fruit or seeds of Xylopia aelhiopicac^ made from fruit or seeds previously delipidated by cold pressing, one to three times successively, in order to obtain a content of 10% or less by mass of lipids relative to the total mass of the fruit or seeds.

[0014] Even more advantageously, said water-soluble extract of delipidated fruits or seeds of Xylopia aethiopica comprises less than 1% by mass of lipids relative to the total mass of the extract, in particular 0% to 1% by mass of lipids relative to the total mass of the extract.

[0015] In the context of the invention, "from 0% to 1% by mass of lipids" means that the extract may comprise 0, 0.25, 0.5, 0.75, 1% by mass of lipid relative to the mass of the extract.

[0016] Also within the scope of the invention, said extract of delipidated fruits or seeds of Xylopia aethiopica has been made water-soluble by solubilization in a solvent chosen from water with or without enzyme, a hydroethanolic solution or a water / glycerol mixture before being able to be used as is in the composition or stored after complete drying before being resolubilized in these same cosmetically acceptable solvents before use.

[0017] In the context of the invention, a water-soluble extract of a plant or part of a plant, such as seeds, is understood to be the result of any extraction in a water-soluble solvent, such as water itself, a hydroethanolic solution, or glycerin, and which can serve as a cosmetically acceptable vehicle and therefore be directly formulatable to produce a final cosmetic composition. These extracts can be formulated directly at concentrations of approximately 0.1% to 5%, or stored in a dry state after evaporation of the water or water plus ethanol, or even as is in the case of a glycerin solvent.

[0018] Advantageously, the composition is characterized in that said water-soluble extract of delipidated fruits or seeds of Xylopia aethiopica represents from 0.1% to 5% by mass relative to the total mass of the composition.

[0019] In the context of the invention, "from 0.1% to 5% by mass" means that the composition may comprise 0.1, 0.2, 0.3, 0.4, 0.5, 0.6, 0.7, 0.8, 0.9, 1, 1.1, 1.2, 1.3, 1.4, 1.5, 1.6, 1.7, 1.8, 1.9, 2, 2.1, 2.2, 2.3, 2.4, 2.5, 2.6, 2.7, 2.8, 2.9, 3, 3.1, 3.2, 3.3, 3.4, 3.5, 3.6, 3.7, 3.8, 3.9, 4, 4.1, 4.2, 4.3, 4.4, 4.5, 4.6, 4.7, 4.8, 4.9 or 5% by mass of delipidated extract relative to the total mass of the composition.

[0020] The effects of different plant extracts on gene expression in Normal Human Epidermal Keratinocytes (NHEK) were investigated. More specifically, a full transcriptome analysis, i.e., the analysis of all genes expressed at a given time, was performed using the Affymetrix GeneAtlas platform and the U219 "full human transcriptome" chip containing 36,000 so-called transcribed genes and variants.

[0021] This method, described in more detail in the examples below, allows us to choose, based on the genes stimulated, i.e. whose expression is significantly increased, or inhibited, i.e. whose expression is significantly reduced, the most interesting plants for cosmetic use and which has shown the interest of Xylopia aethiopica in the Annonaceae family among other plants thus tested.

[0022] Then, by taking the most interesting gene or genes, this method makes it possible to select the optimum protocol(s) in order to obtain the best possible results. Here, for Xylopia aethiopica of the Annonaceae family, the Insulin-like Growth Factor Binding Protein 3 (IGFBP3) gene was used to determine that it was the delipidated fruits or seeds, subsequently extracted in a simple solvent, that allowed for an increase in expression of more than 2000% upon contact with normal human keratinocytes (NHEK). The relative expression of this IFGBP3 gene in control keratinocytes had a signal intensity of 32.66, while in keratinocytes brought into contact with the water-soluble extract of Xylopia aethiopica thus selected had a signal intensity of 710.74, i.e., a stimulation of the expression of this gene called fold change or rate of modification, under the experimental conditions, of 21.75 times.

[0023] This made it possible to determine an optimum when the extraction was carried out in simple solvents such as water, hydroethanolic mixtures in which the ethanol is then recycled after complete evaporation or mixtures of water and glycerin, whose moisturizing properties for the skin are well established.

[0024] These tests demonstrate the value of a cosmetic composition characterized in that it consists of a water-soluble extract of delipidated fruits or seeds of African Xylopia aethiopica of the Annonaceae family, obtained by mechanical separation of the fruits or seeds from the fruits, followed by drying for a minimum of 1 day, then by one or more cold pressings of these fruits or seeds, after or without prior roasting, followed by drying in an oven for 1 to 5 hours at a temperature between 50°C and 60°C to prevent the proliferation of microorganisms, then by extraction or maceration in water with or without added enzymes, a hydroethanolic solution or a water / glycerol mixture, or by maceration in glycerol alone, which can then be filtered or centrifuged and stored and used directly in its respective solvent, or again dried, or even lyophilized or zeodrated.This has the effect of reducing aging, strengthening the skin's barrier function, cohesion and homeostasis, slowing down epidermal proliferation to give it more time to build properly while promoting its proper maturation and differentiation, including that of the stratum corneum. It also helps protect the extracellular matrices and promotes the proper formation of their collagen, contributing to improved skin firmness.

[0025] The invention also relates to a water-soluble extract of delipidated fruits or seeds of African Xylopia aethiopica of the Annonaceae family, characterized in that it comprises water with or without enzyme, a hydroethanolic solution or a water / glycerol mixture and that it is prepared from 10% by weight of defatted and then dried fruits or seeds.

[0026] This allows for the production of a water-soluble extract of delipidated fruits or seeds of African Xylopia aethiopica, belonging to the Annonaceae family, characterized in that it is intended for application to healthy skin to strengthen and promote skin protection, reduce aging, reinforce the skin's barrier function, cohesion, and homeostasis, and slow down epidermal proliferation to allow more time for proper development while promoting its proper maturation and differentiation, including that of the stratum corneum. It also helps protect the extracellular matrices and promote the proper formation of their collagens, contributing to improved skin firmness.

[0027] Or more precisely a water-soluble extract of delipidated fruits or seeds of African Xylopia aethiopica of the Annonaceae family for the treatment or prevention of the negative effects caused by aging, an alteration of the skin's barrier effect, its cohesion and homeostasis, an increase in epidermal proliferation not allowing it to build up completely and correctly, without sufficient maturation and differentiation with fragile horny envelopes;when the negative effects also concern extracellular matrices that are too degraded by peptidases and with poor collagen formation leading to a loss of firmness, all linked to an under-expression of Insulin-like Growth Factor Binding Protein 3 (IGFBP3), TransGlutaMinase 1 (TGM1), Capsasel4 (Capsl4), Desmoglein 1 (DSG1), DeCoriN (DCN) or, conversely, in the context of the over-expression of genes promoting skin problems, the destruction of extracellular matrices and the loss of homeostasis, such as Matrix MetalloPeptidases 1, 3 and 10 (MMPI,3,10), XIAP Associated Factor 1 (XAF1) and TransGlutaMinase 2 (TGM2).

[0028] Indeed, Insulin-like Growth Factor Binding Protein 3 (IGFBP3) is a true marker of aging that decreases when senescence is induced in skin cell cultures by hydrogen peroxide (H2O2) compared to cells that remain young. There is therefore a cosmetic benefit to increasing its expression physiologically. Increased ITGFBP3 expression induces a partial inhibition of the processes of proliferation, division, and progression of the epidermal cell cycle, allowing the epidermis and its stratum corneum more time to develop properly. This is further promoted by Capsase 14 when it is also better expressed. Capsacel4 is a protease encoded by the CAPS 14 gene and plays a central role in apoptosis, acting as a true regulator of cellular homeostasis, as well as in the terminal differentiation of keratinocytes. It allows thus a barrier effect for the skin and the regulation of insensible water loss from the skin which has plenty of time to express itself when 1TGFBP3 is active. Apoptosis is inhibited by two genes, XIAP Associated Factor 1 (XAF1) and Transglutaminase 2 (TGM2), which are specifically inhibited by the water-soluble extract of delipidated fruits or seeds of Xylopia aethiopica. Therefore, reducing their expression is beneficial for skin homeostasis. Desmoglein, on the other hand, is a desmosomal protein naturally encoded by the DSG1 gene, predominantly expressed in the last layers of the epidermis and responsible for the adhesion properties of the famous desmosomes, a veritable snap fastener, ensuring the cell-cell junction essential to the skin's barrier effect and cohesion. Transglutaminase 1 (TGM1) is a protein that enables the polymerization of proteins that will form the corneal envelope during the terminal differentiation of keratinocytes into comeocytes. Decorin is a protein encoded by the DCN gene that binds around collagen fibers to control their diameter, which is thus homogeneous in the extracellular matrix, guaranteeing firmness, homogeneity which degrades like firmness during aging. Matrix metallopeptidase 1 (MMPI) is a protein encoded by the MMPlet gene, which belongs to a group of MMP genes that degrade the extracellular matrix by attacking its fibers, such as collagen, as well as growth factors, often hindering wound healing. MMP3 and MMP10 are stomelysins that degrade several types of collagen, as well as fibronectin, laminin, and elastin, all of which play a role in skin firmness. These 3 MMPs, significantly inhibited by the said extract, all participate in the dismantling of the extracellular matrix and reducing their expression is therefore favorable to maintaining skin firmness.

[0029] The invention also relates to the cosmetic use of water-soluble extract of delipidated fruits or seeds of African Xylopia aethiopica of the Annonaceae family, intended for use in the treatment or prevention of the negative effects caused by aging, alteration of the skin's barrier effect, cohesion and homeostasis, increased epidermal proliferation preventing it from building up completely and correctly, without sufficient maturation and differentiation with fragile stratum corneum; when the negative effects also concern extracellular matrices that are too degraded by peptidases and with poor collagen formation leading to a loss of firmness, all linked to an under-expression of Insulin-like Growth Factor Binding Protein 3 (IGFBP3), TransGlutaMinase 1 (TGM1), Capsasel4 (Caps 14), of Desmoglein 1 (DSG1), of DeCoriN (DCN) or, on the other hand, in the context of the overexpression of genes promoting skin problems, the destruction of extracellular matrices and the loss of homeostasis, such as Matrix MetalloPeptidases 1, 3 and 10 (MMPI,3,10), XIAP Associated Factor 1 (XAF1) and TransGlutaMinase 2 (TGM2)

[0030] All characterized in that the aqueous, hydroethanolic or hydroglycerin extracts are capable of improving the expression of Binding Protein 3 (IGFBP3), TransGlutaMinase 1 (TGM1), Capsasel4 (Capsl4), Desmoglein 1 (DSG1), DeCoriN (DCN) and reducing those of Matrix MetalloPeptidases 1, 3 and 10 (MMPI,3,10), XIAP Associated Factor 1 (XAF1) and TransGlutaMinase 2 (TGM2) optimized by analysis of gene expression at the genome level (36000 transcribed genes and variants) of normal human epidermal keratinocytes and by hybridization on DNA microarrays.

[0031] The invention further relates to the cosmetic use of a water-soluble extract of delipidated fruits or seeds of African Xylopia aethiopica of the Annonaceae family, intended to be used to induce a pro-differentiating effect by increasing the expression of genes encoding keratinocyte differentiation (SPRR2A, DCN, DSG1, TGM1, KRT1), given that: SPRR2A and 2D correspond to small proteins released during the maturation or differentiation of keratinocytes and which are then taken up by transglutaminases at the level of the stratum corneum to form the corneal envelope surrounding the corneocytes giving them sufficient rigidity to allow good cohesion and therefore an essential barrier effect as well as a beautiful appearance on the surface of the skin. KRT1 for Keratin 1 is a keratin and intermediate filament of the cytoskeleton playing an important role in maintaining the skin barrier. TGMlest, as mentioned above, is the gene that produces Transglutaminase 1, a protein that polymerizes the various molecules that form the envelopes of corneocytes (involucrin, keratin 1, small SPRR-type proteins). DSG1, for Desmoglein 1, as also mentioned above, is a desmosomal protein naturally encoded by the DSG1 gene. It is predominantly expressed in the outermost layers of the epidermis and is responsible for the adhesive properties of the desmosomes, which act as a kind of snap fastener, ensuring the cell-cell junction essential for the skin's barrier function and cohesion. The epidermis therefore sees its keratinocytes differentiate better, its horny envelopes form better, as a result of which the skin will be more beautiful on the surface, more resistant to the harmful effects of aging and presenting a better quality barrier effect.

[0032] Advantageously, the invention relates to the non-therapeutic cosmetic use of a composition, for topical application on healthy skin in order to advantageously use a multifunctional active ingredient which simultaneously reduces aging, strengthens the skin's barrier effect, its cohesion and homeostasis, slows down epidermal proliferation in order to give it more time to build properly while promoting its proper maturation and differentiation, including that of the stratum corneum, while protecting the extracellular matrices and the proper formation of their collagens, contributing to the improvement of skin firmness.

[0033] For cosmetic use, the interest then becomes apparent in a composition comprising a water-soluble extract of delipidated fruits or seeds of African Xylopia aethiopica of the Annonaceae family, characterized in that it is in the form of an oil-in-water (O / W) or water-in-oil (W / O) emulsion, a multiple emulsion (O / W / O, W / O / O), a microemulsion, a twin-phase emulsion, a PIT emulsion, a nanoemulsion, a pseudoemulsion, an aqueous gel, a fatty gel, a hydroalcoholic gel, a suspension, a lyophilized gel or emulsion and / or one of the preceding forms containing microcapsules, nanocapsules, liposomes, ethosomes and which can be presented as creams, serums, liquids, pastes, lotions, emulsions, gels, solids, powders, masks, sticks, sprays, aerosols.

[0034] As well as a composition comprising a water-soluble extract of delipidated fruits or seeds of African Xylopia aethiopica of the Annonaceae family obtained by the process according to characterized in that it is in the form of a two-phase micellar makeup remover, a foaming gel, a jelly lotion, an exfoliant, a moisturizing cream, a moisturizing serum, a wrinkle-enhancing serum, a moisturizing body lotion, a regenerating mask, a regenerating cream, a slimming body cream, an anti-aging cream, a regenerating serum, a balm, a mist, an eye treatment, a concentrate, or a detoxifying mask.

[0035] All of this therefore allows for the non-therapeutic cosmetic use of a water-soluble extract of delipidated fruits or seeds of African Xylopia aethiopica, from the Annonaceae family, characterized in that the composition is applied to healthy skin, with the aim of advantageously utilizing a multifunctional active ingredient that simultaneously reduces aging, strengthens the skin's barrier function, its cohesion and homeostasis, slows down epidermal proliferation to give it more time to develop properly, while promoting its proper maturation and differentiation, including that of the stratum corneum. It also helps protect the extracellular matrices and promotes the proper formation of their collagen, contributing to improved skin firmness.

[0036] A cosmetic skincare method for healthy skin that advantageously uses a multifunctional active ingredient to both reduce aging and strengthenthe skin's barrier effect, its cohesion and homeostasis, to slow down epidermal proliferation in order to give it more time to build properly while promoting its proper maturation and differentiation, including that of the stratum corneum, and also to protect the extracellular matrices and proper collagen formation, contributing to improved skin firmness, including the topical administration of a cosmetic composition of a water-soluble extract of delipidated fruits or seeds of Xylopia aethiopica, optimized by the use of whole-genome expression analysis of cultured human keratinocytes (NHEK) in order to determine all its properties as well as the optimization of its preparations, the association of enzymes or not during the extraction or maceration steps, the benefit or not of prior roasting,the percentage of defatted and dried fruits or seeds, or the nature of the final drying process, characterized both by increased expression of certain genes of interest and by decreased expression of other genes of interest.

[0037] Examples are given below, without being exhaustive, for the purpose of illustrating the invention:

[0038] Example 1. Obtaining delipidated water-soluble extracts from fruits or seeds of Xylopia aethiopica: Water-soluble extracts of delipidated fruits or seeds of African Xylopia aethiopica of the Annonaceae family are produced by mechanical separation of the fruits or seeds from the fruits followed by a minimum drying of 1 day and then by one or more cold pressings of these seeds or fruits, after or without prior roasting, followed by oven drying for 1 to 5 hours and at a temperature between 50°C and 60°C in order to avoid the proliferation of microorganisms, then by extraction or maceration in water with or without added enzymes, a hydroethanolic solution or a water / glycerol mixture or even maceration in glycerol alone and can then be filtered or centrifuged and stored and used directly in their respective solvent or again dried or lyophilized or even zeodrated. They can therefore include water with or without enzyme, a hydroethanolic solution or a water / glycerol mixture and be prepared from 10% by weight of delipidated fruits or seeds then dried from the solvent used for extraction or maceration. These extracts can be tested directly or they can be dried, dehydrated, freeze-dried or zeodrated before testing. In the latter cases they are rehydrated or diluted with purified water acting as a solvent. We will call EXA (for Extract of Xylopia Aethiopica) the extracts obtained and used in the following examples.

[0039] Example 2. Tests and examples of results. The biological model: Third-pass normal human epidermal keratinocytes (NHEK) cultured at 37°C and 5% CO2. Culture medium supplemented with EGF at 0.25 ng / ml and EP at 25 µg plus gentamicin 25 µg. The test medium consisted of SFM keratinocytes with only gentamicin 25 µg / ml. Experimental conditions: Keratinocytes were seeded in 24-well plates and cultured in culture medium for 24 hours, then in test medium for an additional 24 hours. The medium was then replaced with test medium containing or not (control) the compounds under investigation, and the cells were incubated for 24 hours. All experimental conditions were performed in triplicate (n=3). At the end of incubation, the culture supernatants were removed and the cell mats were rinsed with a PBS solution. The plate was immediately frozen dry at -80°C. Prior to extraction, the culture replicates were pooled. Total RNA from each sample was extracted using TriPure Isolation Reagent® according to the protocol recommended by the supplier. The quantity and quality of RNA were assessed by capillary electrophoresis (Bioanalyzer 2100, Agilent). The synthesis of biotinylated antisense RNAs (aRNAs) was carried out using the "GeneChip 3'IVT Express" kit (Affymetrix®). For each biotinylated RNA sample, an electrophoretic profile was performed (Bioanalyzer 2100, Agilent) before and after fragmentation. The hybridization of labeled and fragmented RNAs on the Affymetrix® U219 chip (36,000 transcripts and variants) was carried out on the GeneAtlas™ fluidics Affymetrix ® hybridization station for 20 hours at 45 °C. The U219 chips were then scanned using the GeneAtlas™ Imaging station (Affymetrix® - 2 pm resolution) to generate signal intensity data as shown in the result examples below. Signal intensity data were normalized using Expression Console software (Affymetrix®), based on the RMA algorithm. Quality control of the labeling and hybridization was then performed. Quality controls of the hybridization and labeling steps validated the experimental process Once normalized with Expression Console software, the data were transferred and formatted in a Microsoft Excel file. Calculations and filters have been added to these files to sort the data and facilitate its use. The "fold change" thresholds or rate of change (value corresponding to the ratio: signal intensity value of a probe corresponding to the treated sample / signal intensity value of a probe corresponding to the control) were defined and applied to the normalized data. The following abbreviations are used in the analysis files: - UR: Upregulated - overexpression or stimulation of the probe or gene when the fold change is greater than 2, - DR: Downregulated - underexpression or inhibition of the probe or gene when the fold change is less than 0.5. Each analysis file consists of: - The signal intensity value (RE: Relative Expression) corresponding to each of the samples, - Calculations of "fold change" or rate of change for each comparison, Information relating to each gene. The filters inserted into these files allow the selection of significantly modulated genes. Examples of gene probes corresponding to the variation in expression of Insulin-like Growth Factor Binding Protein 3 (IGFBP3), TransGlutaMinase 1 (TGM1), Capsasel4 (Capsl4), Desmoglein 1 (DSG1), DeCoriN (DCN) or Matrices MetalloPeptidases 1, 3 and 10 (MMPI,3,10), XIAP Associated Factor 1 (XAF1) and TransGlutaMinase 2 (TGM2) thus obtained with this methodology and with EXA for the extract of delipidated fruits or seeds of Xylopia aethiopica, the numbers indicated correspond to the intensity of the signal obtained for the control and for the EXA assay: Signal intensity for Insulin-like Growth Factor Binding Protein 3 (IGFBP3): - Control: 32.66 - EXA: 710.37 - Change rate: 21.75 - Regulation: UR Signal intensity for Transglutaminase 1 (TGM1): - Control: 57.55 - EXA: 239.96 - Change rate: 4.17 - Regulation: UR Signal intensity for Capsasel4 (Caps 14): - Control: 24.33 - EXA: 82.48 - Change rate: 3.39 - Regulation: UR Signal intensity for Desmoglein 1 (DSG1): - Witness: 37.34 - EXA: 169.10 - Change rate: 4.53 - Regulation: UR Signal intensity for Décorine (DCN): - Witness: 20.00 - EXA: 69.86 - Change rate: 3.49 - Regulation: UR Signal intensity for Matrix Metallopeptidase 1 (MMPI): - Witness: 420.32 - EXA: 59.20 - Change rate: 0.14 - Regulation: DR Signal intensity for Matrix Metallopeptidase 3 (MMP3): - Witness: 290.23 - EXA: 46.48 - Change rate: 0.16 - Regulation: DR Signal intensity for Matrix Metallopeptidase 10 (MMP 10): - Witness: 543.10 - EXA: 57.78 - Change rate: 0.11 - Regulation: DR Signal intensity for XIAP Associated Factor 1 (XAF1): - Witness: 270.36 - EXA: 87.14 - Change rate: 0.32 - Regulation: DR Signal intensity for Transglutaminase 2 (TGM2): - Witness: 246.45 - EXA: 26.61 - Change rate: 0.11 - Regulation: DR

[0040] In the examples below, which give examples of the realization of these compositions, without this list being exhaustive, the following abbreviations will be used: EXA for the extract of delipidated fruits or seeds of Xylopia aethiopica.

[0041] Example 3. According to a first embodiment of the invention, the composition comprises, for a liposome cream: - Cetyl alcohol.............................................................................4 g - B-sitosterol..................................................................................4 - Dicetyl phosphate................................................................................0.5 g - Preservative..............................................................................0.3 g - Carbopol 981 ...................................................................0.2 g - Triethanolamine........................................................................0.2 g - Phospholipid.........................................................................0.05 g - EXA..................................................................................1.5 g - Demineralized water qsp................................................................100 g After use on a panel of 40 volunteers aged 18 to 70, the skin appeared significantly hydrated within 3 hours of the first application. After 4 weeks of daily use, 65% of users reported softer, younger-looking, and firmer skin. Skin cohesion and barrier function were visibly improved, demonstrating enhanced homeostasis.

[0042] Example 4 According to a second embodiment of the invention, the composition comprises: Carboxypolymethylene or carboxylic polymer..................0.40 g Diethanolamine cetylphosphate............................................1.50g Octyl dodecanol............................................................5.50 g Cetyl alcohol..................................................................1.00 g Mineral oil.................................................................2.00 g Stearic acid............................................................1.00 g Sterylic alcohol ethoxylate (20 E)...........................................0.30 g Ketostearyl alcohol....................................................1.80 g Preservative................................................................0.15 g Baobab oil........................................................................0.50 g Triethanolamine..........................................................0.60 g Cyclomethicone............................................................12.00 g Dimethicone copolyol........................................................3.00 g Phenyl trimeticone...........................................................2.00 g EXA................................................................................3.00 g Dextran.........................................................................1.00 g Glycerin.............................................................................2.00 g Demineralized water qsp........................................................100 g After four weeks of use on 35 volunteers, skin appeared smoother just two hours after each application. At the end of the treatment, the number, length, and width of wrinkles had significantly decreased, and 92% of users reported more hydrated skin. Overall, the skin's appearance was visibly improved, looking less aged and less stressed.

[0043] Example 5 According to a second embodiment of the invention, the composition comprises: - Acrylate C10-30........................................................0.50 g - Arginine............................................................0.001g - Glycerin..................................................................................1.00 g - EXA..........................................................................................0.20 g - Alcohol..................................................................2.00 g - Carbomer................................................................................0.126 g - EDTA..............................................................................................0.005 g - Preservative......................................................................0.867 g - Jojoba oil.............................................................................0.5 g - Hydrogenated lecithin.....................................................0.09 g - Hyaluronic acid....................................................................0.20 g - TEA 99%...................................................................................0.62 g - Colorings........................................................................0.0002 g - Demineralized water qsp.................................................................100 g After 4 weeks of use, 30 volunteers aged 20 to 70 years old saw their skin appear significantly more hydrated and more beautiful.

[0044] Example 6. Oil-in-water emulsion: - Liquid paraffin.................................................6 g - Liquid lanolin................................................................3 g - Arlacel 165................................................................6 g - Tween 60...................................................................2 g - Cetyl alcohol................................................................1.2 g - Stearic acid.................................................2.5 g - Arginine........................................................................0.5 g - Volatile silicone oil...................................................10 g - Triethanolamine................................................................0.1 g - Preservative....................................................................0.3 g - EXA..........................................................................5 g - Hyaluronic acid.......................................................0.5 g - Demineralized water qsp.....................................................100 g. After 4 weeks of twice-daily use by 30 volunteers aged 33 to 70, the skin appeared significantly more toned and firmer for 100% of them. users.

[0045] Example 7 Water / Oil Emulsion: - Protein.......................................................................19g - Glycerin....................................................................................3 g - Vaseline oil.........................................................................8 g - Mg sulfate.............................................................................0.5 g -EXA........................................................................0.5 g - Hyaluronic acid.................................................................0.02 g - Preservative............................................................2 g - Demineralized water qsp.............................................................100 g

[0046] Example 8. Oil-in-water gel emulsion - Carbopol 981 .........................................................0.6 g - Ethyl alcohol..........................................................................15 g - Volatile silicone oil...............................................................3 g - Jojoba oil.............................................................................7 g - Preservative............................................................0.3 g - Perfume...................................................................0.4 g - EXA..................................................................................0.1 g - Triethanolamine........................................................................0.2 g - Demineralized water qsp.................................................................100 g

[0047] Example 9. Glycerinated concentrate -Glycerin.....................................................................65 g -EXA..................................................................................................5 g - Arginine........................................................................................1 g - Hyaluronic acid..........................................................1 g - Perfume.....................................................................0.4 g - Demineralized water qsp...............................................................100 g

Claims

Demands

1. Cosmetic composition comprising a water-soluble extract of delipidized fruits or seeds by cold pressing, one to three times successively, of African Xylopia aethiopica of the Annonaceae family and a cosmetically acceptable vehicle which may advantageously be that used as a solvent during the extraction.

2. Cosmetic composition according to claim 1, wherein said cosmetically acceptable vehicle is also that used as solvent during extraction and is selected from water with or without enzyme, a hydroethanolic solution or a water / glycerol mixture.

3. Cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 2 characterized in that said water-soluble extract of delipidated fruits or seeds of African Xylopia aethiopica of the Annonaceae family is made from fruits or seeds previously delipidated by cold pressing, one to three times successively, in order to obtain a content of 10% or less by mass of lipids relative to the total mass of the fruits or seeds.

4. Cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 3 characterized in that said water-soluble extract of delipidated fruits or seeds of African Xylopia aethiopica of the Annonaceae family comprises less than 1% by mass of lipids relative to the total mass of the extract, in particular from 0% to 1% by mass of lipids relative to the total mass of the extract.

5. Cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 4 characterized in that said water-soluble extract of delipidated fruits or seeds of African Xylopia aethiopica of the Annonaceae family has been made water-soluble by solubilization in a solvent selected from water with or without enzyme, a hydroethanolic solution or a water / glycerol mixture before being used as is in the composition or stored after complete drying before being resolubilized in these same cosmetically acceptable solvents before use.

6. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 5 characterized in that said water-soluble extract of delipidated fruits or seeds of African Xylopia aethiopica of the Annonaceae family represents from 0.1% to 5% by mass relative to the total mass of the composition.

7. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 6, wherein the composition is in the form of an oil-in-water (O / W) or water-in-oil (W / O) emulsion, multiple emulsion (O / W / O, W / O / O), microemulsion, twin-phase emulsion, PIT emulsion, nanoemulsion, pseudoemulsion, aqueous gel, oily gel, hydroalcoholic gel, suspension, lyophilized gel or emulsion and / or any of the preceding forms containing microcapsules, nanocapsules, liposomes, ethosomes and may be in the form of creams, serums, liquids, pastes, lotions, emulsions, gels, solids, powders, masks, sticks, sprays, aerosols.

8. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 6, said composition being in the form of a two-phase micellar makeup remover, a foaming gel, a jelly lotion, an exfoliant, a moisturizing cream, a hydrating serum, a wrinkle-enhancing serum, a moisturizing body lotion, a regenerating mask, a regenerating cream, a slimming body cream, an anti-aging cream, a regenerating serum, a balm, a mist, an eye treatment, a concentrate, or a detoxifying mask.

9. Non-therapeutic cosmetic use of a composition as defined in any one of claims 1 to 8, for topical application to healthy skin with the aim of advantageously utilizing a multifunctional active ingredient that simultaneously reduces aging, strengthens the skin's barrier function, cohesion and homeostasis, slows epidermal proliferation to allow more time for proper development while promoting proper maturation and differentiation, including that of the stratum corneum, while protecting the extracellular matrices and the proper formation of their collagens, thus contributing to improved skin firmness

10. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 8 for its use in preventing the negative effects caused by aging with alteration of the skin's barrier function, cohesion and homeostasis, increased epidermal proliferation preventing it from building up completely and correctly, without sufficient maturation and differentiation with fragile stratum corneum, and when the negative effects also concern extracellular matrices that are excessively degraded by peptidases, resulting in a loss of firmness, this in improving the expression of Desmoglein 1 (DSG1), DeCoriN (DCN) and reducing those of Matrices MetalloPeptidases 1, 3 and 10 (MMPI, 3, 10).