Water-soluble extract of delipidated Adansonia digitata seeds and its cosmetic uses.

Abstract

Cosmetic use of delipidated seed extracts of Adansonia digitata from the Malvaceae family with multifunctional effects and intended to be placed in contact with the various superficial parts of the human body.

Description

Title of the invention: Water-soluble extract of delipidated seeds of Adansonia diktat a and its cosmetic uses.

[0001] The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition intended to be placed in contact with the various superficial parts of the human body (epidermis, hair and scalp systems, nails, lips and external genital organs) or with the teeth and oral mucosa, with a view exclusively or mainly to cleaning them, perfuming them, changing their appearance, protecting them, keeping them in good condition or correcting body odors and characterized in that it comprises at least one aqueous, glycerinated or hydroalcoholic extract of delipidated seeds of Adansonia digitata of the Malvaceae family in order to advantageously use a multifunctional active ingredient allowing the skin on the one hand to promote its proper maturation and differentiation while allowing it to be more beautiful on the surface,more resistant to the harmful effects of external aggressions and aging due to a better barrier effect, and also slows down cell proliferation, thus giving the epidermis more time to build itself up and improve its firmness.

[0002] It is known that more and more cosmetics are trying to claim a more organic, more ecological, more natural mode of action with the new ISO 16128 standard, vegan, and even a slow cosmetics approach (ecological, healthy, intelligent, and reasonable) that takes into account the skin's real needs, advocating the use of fewer ingredients to achieve better results, even frugality, positive contributions for the skin, and realistic promises. One response to this concern could then be plant extracts with multiple, multifunctional, and complementary properties that are sufficient on their own and therefore often do not require the addition of other active substances in cosmetic formulations.

[0003] Many people believe that the skin surface to which cosmetics are applied is a dead and inert structure. In fact, this is not the case, and the epidermis, including its outermost stratum corneum, is the site of intense biochemical reactions where activators, inhibitors, and inhibitors of inhibitors maintain a balance and homeostasis that varies with the time of day, the seasons, and age. Each epidermal cell, and particularly the keratinocytes, which are the predominant cells of the epidermis, exhibits a complex and intricate metabolism leading to cell maturation and differentiation under the control of the expression of the 36,000 genes and variants that comprise them. It is possible to compare the epidermis located above the dermis, and of ectodermal origin like the brain, to a conveyor belt with keratinocytes dividing by cell proliferation only at its base then migrating towards the surface, progressively differentiating to give, all on the surface, the corneocytes forming the stratum corneum before normally desquamating imperceptibly. There is a dual physiological process at play: the differentiation of keratinocytes, which become corneocytes on the surface, and the cell proliferation that gives rise to these keratinocytes deeper within the epidermis, at its base. A balance, a homeostasis, exists between proliferation and differentiation. If keratinocytes form too rapidly through proliferation at the base of the epidermis, as in the case of psoriasis, they will migrate too quickly to the surface, not having enough time to differentiate properly into corneocytes. Consequently, they cannot perform all their functions, including the important barrier effect. Conversely, when cell proliferation is slowed, cells have more time to build themselves up, resulting in skin that is better able to perform its functions, more beautiful, and firmer. This is what we call epidermal firmness, which differs from dermal firmness, which lies deeper within the skin. Its importance is visible when you slowly run a finger over the surface of the skin on the back of your hand, for example, and you see that everything moves deeper down, while on the surface, the epidermis plays its supporting role precisely because of this epidermal firmness.

[0004] It is then easy to imagine the interest of being able to select and test plant substances on the expression of all these genes in order to be able to select the most interesting extracts and develop the most efficient extraction and production methods.

[0005] Among all the plants studied, Dansonia digitatae, belonging to the Malvaceae family, has numerous and well-known properties when used as a whole, and particularly its oil. Indeed, the oil of this plant is traditionally used in West Africa to restore softness and elasticity to the skin, relieve and soothe superficial burns, prevent stretch marks, and is often applied to brittle, dry, dull, or split nails or hair to restore their shine and beauty. This oil is produced from seeds surrounded by a dry pulp when ripe and contained in a fruit often called monkey bread.

[0006] However, the use of oil is not always appreciated by users in cosmetics. Therefore, there is a need to provide other non-lipid captive forms of Adansonia digitata for both therapeutic and cosmetic purposes.

[0007] One of the aims of the invention is to provide a non-greasy composition.

[0008] Another object of the invention is to propose the use of such a composition in the context of a cosmetic application.

[0009] It was by studying the properties of different water-soluble extracts of Adansonia digitata seeds after delipidation obtained after one or more successive cold pressings, on the expression of genes of normal human keratinocytes that the applicant discovered quite unexpectedly that these extracts of Adansonia digitata had many properties of interest to healthy skin and therefore to cosmetics, particularly those concerned with minimalist formulas using multifunctional active ingredients, since a given extract could have many complementary properties and reduce the use of many different active substances.

[0010] The invention therefore relates to a cosmetic composition comprising a water-soluble extract of delipidated seeds of Adansonia digitatae of the Malvaceae family and a cosmetically acceptable vehicle.

[0011] In the context of the invention, a water-soluble extract of a plant or part of a plant, such as seeds, is understood to be the result of any extraction in a water-soluble solvent, such as water itself, a hydroethanolic solution, or glycerin, and which can serve as a cosmetically acceptable vehicle and therefore be directly formulatable to produce a final cosmetic composition. These extracts can be formulated directly at concentrations of approximately 0.1% to 5%, or stored in a dry state after evaporation of the water or water plus ethanol, or even as is in the case of a glycerin solvent.

[0012] It is from the observation that very often plants, and particularly their seeds, contain a significant amount of lipids which hinder the release of substances of interest and require the use of complex solvents other than simple water, hydroethanolic solvents or vegetable glycerin that the idea came about to separate, beforehand, these lipids from the rest of the plant to be extracted.

[0013] Also these cosmetic or pharmaceutical compositions are characterized in that said water-soluble extract of delipidated seeds of Adansonia digitata of the Malvaceae family is an extract from the seeds of one or more species or varieties of Baobab chosen from the group formed by Adansonia digitata, Adansonia digitata mountain variety, Adansonia digitata plains variety, Adansonia kilima, Adansonia grandidieri, Adansonia gregorii, Adansonia madagascariensis, Adansonia perrieri, Adansonia rubrostipa, Adansonia fony, Adansonia suarezensis and Adansonia za.

[0014] For the purposes of this invention and to facilitate its drafting, Adansonia digitata of the Malvaceae family shall be understood to mean any of the species in this group formed by Adansonia digitata, Adansonia digitata mountain variety, Adansonia digitata variety of the plains, Adansonia kilima, Adansonia grandidieri, Adansonia gregorii, Adansonia madagascariensis, Adansonia perrieri, Adansonia rubrostipa, Adansonia fony, Adansonia suarezensis and Adansonia za.

[0015] Therefore, a cosmetic or pharmaceutical composition intended to be placed in contact with the various superficial parts of the human body (epidermis, hair and scalp systems, nails, lips and external genital organs) or with the teeth and oral mucosa, with a view exclusively or mainly to cleaning them, perfuming them, changing their appearance, protecting them, keeping them in good condition or correcting body odors and characterized in that it comprises at least one water-soluble extract of delipidated seeds of Adansonia digitata of the Malvaceae family in order to advantageously use a multifunctional active ingredient which both promotes the proper maturation and differentiation of the skin, allowing it to be more beautiful on the surface, more resistant to the harmful effects of external aggressions and aging because it presents a better quality barrier effect,while also slowing down cell proliferation, thus giving the epidermis more time to build itself up and improve its firmness.

[0016] The applicant has indeed tested several aqueous, glycerinated, or hydroethanolic extracts of Adansonia digitata on the complete genome of normal human keratinocytes, and particularly by genome-wide gene expression analysis (36,000 transcribed genes and variants) of normal human epidermal keratinocytes following the extraction of total transcribed Ribonucleic Acids (RNA) and subsequent hybridization on Deoxyribonucleic Acid (DNA) microarrays. The principle of the DNA microarray is based on the property of denatured DNA (single strand) to spontaneously reform its double helix when in the presence of a complementary strand (hybridization reaction). Since it is possible to attach up to a million probes to a biochip, DNA chips constitute a massive approach that the inventor used because they allow in a single experiment to have an estimate on the expression of tens of thousands of genes.

[0017] Advantageously, said pharmaceutically acceptable vehicle is also that used as solvent during extraction and is chosen from water with or without enzyme, a hydroethanolic solution or a water / glycerol mixture.

[0018] Also advantageously, said water-soluble extract of Adansonia digitata seeds is made from seeds previously delipidated by cold pressing, one to three times successively, in order to obtain a content of 10% or less by mass of lipids relative to the total mass of the seeds.

[0019] Even more advantageously, said water-soluble extract of delipidated Adansonia digitata seeds comprises less than 1% by mass of lipids compared to the total mass of the extract, in particular 0% to 1% by mass of lipids relative to the total mass of the extract.

[0020] And so that said water-soluble extract of Adansonia digitata seeds is made from seeds previously delipidated by cold pressing, one to three times successively, in order to obtain a content of 10% or less by mass of lipids in relation to the total mass of the seeds so that in the end the extract comprises less than 1% by mass of lipids in relation to the total mass of the extract, in particular 0% to 1% by mass of lipids in relation to the total mass of the extract.

[0021] In the context of the invention, "from 0% to 1% by mass of lipids" means that the extract may comprise 0, 0.25, 0.5, 0.75, 1% by mass of lipids relative to the mass of the extract.

[0022] Also within the scope of the invention, said extract of delipidated seeds of Adansonia digitata of the Malvaceae family has been made water-soluble by solubilization in a solvent chosen from water with or without enzyme, a hydroethanolic solution or a water / glycerol mixture before being able to be used as is in the composition or stored after complete drying before being resolubilized in these same cosmetically acceptable solvents before use.

[0023] Advantageously, the composition is characterized in that said water-soluble extract of delipidated seeds of Adansonia digitata of the Malvaceae family represents from 0.1% to 5% by mass relative to the total mass of the composition.

[0024] In the context of the invention, "from 0.1% to 5% by mass" means that the composition may comprise 0.1, 0.2, 0.3, 0.4, 0.5, 0.6, 0.7, 0.8, 0.9, 1, 1.1, 1.2, 1.3, 1.4, 1.5, 1.6, 1.7, 1.8, 1.9, 2, 2.1, 2.2, 2.3, 2.4, 2.5, 2.6, 2.7, 2.8, 2.9, 3, 3.1, 3.2, 3.3, 3.4, 3.5, 3.6, 3.7, 3.8, 3.9, 4, 4.1, 4.2, 4.3, 4.4, 4.5, 4.6, 4.7, 4.8, 4.9 or 5% by mass of delipidated extract relative to the total mass of the composition.

[0025] The effects of different plant extracts on gene expression in Normal Human Epidermal Keratinocytes (NHEK) were investigated. More specifically, a full transcriptome analysis, i.e., the analysis of all genes expressed at a given time, was performed using the Affymetrix GeneAtlas platform and the U219 "full human transcriptome" chip containing 36,000 so-called transcribed genes and variants.

[0026] This method, described in more detail in the examples below, allows us to choose, based on the genes stimulated, i.e. whose expression is significantly increased, or inhibited, i.e. whose expression is significantly reduced, the most interesting plants for cosmetic use and which has shown the interest of Adansonia digitata of the Malvaceae family among other plants thus tested.

[0027] Then, by selecting the most relevant gene or genes, this method allows for the selection of the optimal protocol(s) to obtain the best possible results. Here, for Adansonia digitata of the Malvaceae family, the Small Proline-Rich Protein 2D (SPRR2D) gene was used to determine that delipidated seeds, subsequently extracted in a simple solvent, resulted in an increase in the expression of this gene of over 2553% upon contact with normal human keratinocytes (NHEK). The relative expression of this SPRR2D gene in control keratinocytes had a signal intensity of 37.65, while in keratinocytes exposed to the selected water-soluble extract of Adansonia digitata, the signal intensity was 999.11, representing a 26.54-fold increase in the expression of this gene, known as a fold change or rate of modification, under the experimental conditions.

[0028] This made it possible to determine an optimum when the extraction was carried out in simple solvents such as water, hydroethanolic mixtures in which the ethanol is then recycled after complete evaporation or mixtures of water and glycerin, whose moisturizing properties for the skin are well established.

[0029] These tests demonstrate the value of a cosmetic composition characterized in that it consists of a water-soluble extract of delipidated seeds of Adansonia digitata from the Malvaceae family, obtained by mechanically separating the seeds from the fruits, which are then ground and cold-pressed several times successively, after or without prior roasting, followed by oven drying for 1 to 5 hours at a temperature between 50°C and 60°C to prevent the proliferation of microorganisms, then by extraction or maceration in water with or without added enzymes, a hydroethanolic solution or a water / glycerol mixture or by maceration in glycerol alone, and can then be filtered or centrifuged and stored and used directly in their respective solvent or again dried or lyophilized or even zeodrated,This has the effect of strengthening and promoting, on the one hand, the proper maturation and differentiation of the skin, allowing it to be more beautiful on the surface, more resistant to the harmful effects of external aggressions and aging because it presents a better quality barrier effect, and on the other hand, by slowing down cell proliferation, thus giving the epidermis more time to build itself up and improve its firmness.

[0030] The invention also relates to a water-soluble extract of delipidated seeds of Adansonia digitata of the Malvaceae family characterized in that it comprises water with or without enzyme, a hydroethanolic solution or a water / glycerol mixture and that it is prepared from 10% by weight of delipidated and then dried seeds.

[0031] This allows for obtaining a water-soluble extract of delipidated seeds of Adansonia digitata of the Malvaceae family, characterized in that it is intended to be applied on healthy skin to strengthen and promote on the one hand the proper maturation and differentiation of the skin allowing it to be more beautiful on the surface, more resistant to the harmful effects of external aggressions and aging because it presents a better quality barrier effect and on the other hand the slowing down of cell proliferation thus giving more time to the epidermis to build itself up better and improve its firmness.

[0032] Or more precisely a composition as defined above, for its use in the treatment or prevention of the negative effects caused by the slowing of proper maturation and keratinocyte differentiation, all linked to an under-expression of Small Proline Rich Proteins 2A and 2D (SPRR2A and 2D), Lipocalin 2 (LCN2), Suprabasin (SBSN) and Corneodesmosin (CDSN), Dermokine (DMKM) and Filaggrin (FLG) or, on the contrary, in the context of the over-expression of genes promoting skin problems, cell hyperproliferation, degradation of the extracellular matrix, such as Matrix Metallopeptidases 1 and 3 (MMP 1 and 3), Tenascin C (TNC), Interleukin 33 (IL33) and Stathmin-like3 (STMN3).

[0033] Indeed, Small proline Rich Proteins are small proteins rich in proline and are naturally encoded by the SPRR2A and 2D genes. In the skin, they are precursors of the stratum corneum and participate in the development of the epidermis and its composition. Lipocalin-2 is a protein encoded by the LCN2 gene and participates in skin homeostasis as well as limiting bacterial growth and therefore plays a role in the skin barrier effect. Suprabasin is also a protein encoded by the SBSN gene, playing an important role in the skin barrier, and its reduction is responsible for atopic dermatitis. Comeodesmosin (CDSN) is a specific protein of corneodesmosomes responsible for the adhesion of corneocytes to each other and thus participates in the barrier effect on the surface of the skin and in epidermal firmness. Dermokine is a glycoprotein encoded by the DMKM gene, the under-expression of which results in a breakdown of the epidermal barrier effect, the appearance of scales and wrinkles, and the fragility of the stratum corneum. Filaggrin (FLG) is synthesized in the form of profilaggrin which is then broken down into filaggrin subunits which associate at the end of the epidermal maturation process with the intra-corneocyte fibrous intermediate filaments thus participating in the comification of corneocytes. Matrix metalloproteinases are peptidases encoded by MMP genes and are responsible for the more or less controlled degradation of the extracellular matrix. In certain situations, limiting their production proves beneficial. Tenascin C is a protein encoded by the TNC gene and plays a role in cell proliferation. Its activity is increased by MMPs. Reducing the expression of these two types of proteins, TNC and MMP, is highly complementary when the goal is to protect the extracellular matrix and reduce cell proliferation, thus giving the skin more time to regenerate. Interleukin 33 (IL33) is a cytokine that, when expressed excessively following inflammation, also stimulates cell proliferation. Reducing its expression thus helps control cell division. Stathmin-3 is a protein encoded by the STMN3 gene that destabilizes the cytoskeleton, particularly tubulin, when overexpressed. Reducing its expression in healthy skin is undoubtedly beneficial. It must then be noted that all of these genes act directly and indirectly on the barrier effect of the skin and clearly illustrates the maxim: The epidermis, a barrier on all fronts! Other effects relating to the reduction of cell proliferation also contribute to this effect because they allow the skin more time to build itself up properly, more time to better build this barrier effect allowing the skin to be more beautiful and firmer on the surface, more resistant to the harmful effects of external aggressions and aging.

[0034] The invention further relates to the cosmetic use of a water-soluble extract of delipidated seeds of Adansonia digitata from the Malvaceae family, intended to be used to induce stimulation of the expression of genes involved in the keratinocyte differentiation process (KLK7, KLK10, KRT1, SPRR1A, 2A, 2D, 2E, CDSN, FLG, IVL, KLK8, CRABP2, SCEL), given that: SPRR IA, 2A, 2D, 2E correspond to small proteins released during the maturation or differentiation of keratinocytes and which are then taken up by transglutaminases at the level of the stratum corneum to form the corneal envelope surrounding the keratinocytes, giving them sufficient rigidity to allow good cohesion and therefore an essential barrier effect as well as a beautiful appearance on the surface of the skin, KRT1, KLK7, KLK8 and KLK10, for Keratin 1, 7, 8 and 10, are keratins and intermediate cytoskeletal filaments that play an important role in maintaining the functional skin barrier. IVL is the gene that produces Involucrin, which serves as a primer for the binding of other molecules in the corneal envelope. FLG for Filaggrin is synthesized in the form of profilaggrin which is then broken down into filaggrin subunits which associate at the end of the epidermal maturation process with the intra-corneocyte fibrous intermediate filaments thus participating in the comification of corneocytes. CDSN, or Comeodesmosin, is a protein specific to corneodesmosomes responsible for the adhesion of corneocytes to each other, thereby contributing to the barrier effect on the skin surface and to epidermal firmness. CRABP2, or Cellular Retinoic Acid Binding Protein 2, participates in epidermal maturation. SCEL gene encoding Sciellin, a precursor protein of the corneal envelope and keratinocyte differentiation. The epidermis therefore sees its keratinocytes differentiate better, its horny envelopes form better, as a result of which the skin will be more beautiful on the surface, more resistant to the harmful effects of aging and presenting a better quality barrier effect.

[0035] Advantageously, the invention relates to the non-therapeutic cosmetic use of a composition, for topical application on healthy skin in order to advantageously use a multifunctional active ingredient which, on the one hand, promotes good maturation and differentiation of the skin, allowing it to be more beautiful on the surface, more resistant to the harmful effects of external aggressions and aging because it presents a better quality barrier effect, and on the other hand, slows down cell proliferation, thus giving the epidermis more time to build itself up and improve its firmness.

[0036] For cosmetic use, the interest then becomes apparent in compositions comprising a water-soluble extract of delipidated seeds of Adansonia digitata of the Malvaceae family characterized in that the composition is in the form of an oil-in-water (O / W) or water-in-oil (W / O) emulsion, multiple emulsion (O / W / O, W / O / O), microemulsion, twin-phase emulsion, PIT emulsion, nanoemulsion, pseudoemulsion, aqueous gel, oily gel, hydroalcoholic gel, suspension, lyophilized gel or emulsion and / or one of the preceding forms containing microcapsules, nanocapsules, liposomes, ethosomes and which can be presented as creams, serums, liquids, pastes, lotions, emulsions, gels, solids, powders, masks, sticks, sprays, aerosols.

[0037] As well as a composition comprising a water-soluble extract of delipidated seeds of Adansonia digitata of the Malvaceae family, wherein said composition is in the form of a two-phase micellar makeup remover, a foaming gel, a jelly lotion, an exfoliant, a moisturizing cream, a moisturizing serum, a wrinkle-appearing serum, a moisturizing body lotion, a regenerating mask, a cream regenerating, a slimming body cream, an anti-aging cream, a regenerating serum, a balm, a mist, an eye treatment, a concentrate, or a detoxifying mask.

[0038] All this therefore allows the non-therapeutic cosmetic use of a composition as defined above, for topical application on healthy skin in order to advantageously use a multifunctional active ingredient allowing the skin on the one hand to promote its good maturation and differentiation while allowing it to be more beautiful on the surface, more resistant to the harmful effects of external aggressions and aging due to a better quality barrier effect and on the other hand to slow down cell proliferation thus giving more time to the epidermis to build itself up better and improve its firmness.

[0039] A cosmetic skincare method for healthy skin to advantageously utilize a multifunctional active ingredient that promotes both proper maturation and differentiation, thus making the skin more beautiful on the surface and more resistant to the harmful effects of external aggressions and aging because it presents a better quality barrier effect while slowing down cell proliferation, thereby giving the epidermis more time to build itself up and improve its firmness. This method includes the topical administration of a cosmetic composition of a water-soluble extract of delipidated Adansonia digitataei seeds, optimized by using whole-genome expression analysis (NHEK) of cultured human keratinocytes to determine all of its properties, as well as the optimization of its preparation, the association of enzymes or not during the extraction or maceration stages.The benefits or drawbacks of prior roasting, the percentage of defatted and dried seeds, or the nature of the final drying process, are characterized by both an increase in the expression of certain genes of interest and a decrease in the expression of other genes of interest.

[0040] Examples are given below without being limiting in order to illustrate the invention.

[0041] Example 1. Obtaining delipidated water-soluble extracts from Adansonia digitata seeds. Extracts of defatted seeds of Adansonia digitata, from the Malvaceae family, are obtained by mechanically separating the seeds from the fruit, followed by one or more cold pressings of these seeds, with or without prior roasting. They are then dried in an oven for 1 to 5 hours at a temperature between 50°C and 60°C to prevent the proliferation of microorganisms. Finally, they undergo extraction or maceration in water with or without added enzymes, a hydroethanolic solution, a water / glycerol mixture, or maceration in glycerol alone. The extract can then be filtered or centrifuged and stored for use. directly in their respective solvent or again dried or freeze-dried or even zeodrated. They can therefore include water with or without enzyme, a hydroethanolic solution or a water / glycerol mixture and be prepared from 10% by weight of delipidated seeds then dried from the solvent used for extraction or maceration. These extracts can be tested directly or they can be dried, dehydrated, freeze-dried or zeodrated before testing. In the latter cases they are rehydrated or diluted with purified water acting as a solvent. We will call the extracts obtained and used in the following examples EAD (for Extract of Adansonia Digitata).

[0042] Example 2. Tests and examples of results. The biological model: Third-pass normal human epidermal keratinocytes (NHEK) cultured at 37°C and 5% CO2. Culture medium supplemented with EGF at 0.25 ng / ml and EP at 25 µg plus gentamicin 25 µg. The test medium consisted of SFM keratinocytes with only gentamicin 25 µg / ml. Experimental conditions: Keratinocytes were seeded in 24-well plates and cultured in culture medium for 24 hours, then in test medium for an additional 24 hours. The medium was then replaced with test medium containing or not (control) the compounds under investigation, and the cells were incubated for 24 hours. All experimental conditions were performed in triplicate (n=3). At the end of incubation, the culture supernatants were removed and the cell mats were rinsed with a PBS solution. The plate was immediately frozen dry at -80°C. Prior to extraction, the culture replicates were pooled. Total RNA from each sample was extracted using TriPure Isolation Reagent® according to the protocol recommended by the supplier. The quantity and quality of RNA were assessed by capillary electrophoresis (Bioanalyzer 2100, Agilent). The synthesis of biotinylated antisense RNAs (aRNAs) was carried out using the "GeneChip 3'IVT Express" kit (Affymetrix®). For each biotinylated RNA sample, an electrophoretic profile was performed (Bioanalyzer 2100, Agilent) before and after fragmentation. The hybridization of labeled and fragmented RNAs on the Affymetrix® U219 chip (36,000 transcripts and variants) was carried out on the GeneAtlas™ fluidics Affymetrix ® hybridization station for 20 hours at 45 °C. The U219 chips were then scanned using the GeneAtlas™ Imaging station (Affymetrix® - 2 pm resolution) to generate signal intensity data as shown in the result examples below. Signal intensity data were normalized using Expression Console software (Affymetrix®), based on the RMA algorithm. Quality control of the labeling and hybridization was then performed. Quality controls of the hybridization and labeling steps validated the experimental process. Once normalized with Expression Console software, the data were transferred and formatted in a Microsoft Excel file. Calculations and filters have been added to these files to sort the data and facilitate its use. The "fold change" thresholds or rate of change (value corresponding to the ratio: signal intensity value of a probe corresponding to the treated sample / signal intensity value of a probe corresponding to the control) were defined and applied to the normalized data. The following abbreviations are used in the analysis files: - UR: Upregulated - overexpression or stimulation of the probe or gene when the fold change is greater than 2, - DR: Downregulated - underexpression or inhibition of the probe or gene when the fold change is less than 0.5. Each analysis file consists of: - The signal intensity value (RE: Relative Expression) corresponding to each of the samples, Calculations of "fold change" or rate of change for each comparison, information relating to each gene. The filters inserted into these files allow the selection of significantly modulated genes. The example of gene probes corresponding to the variation in expression of SPRR 2D and 2A, LCN2, SBSN, CDSN, DMKM, FLG, KRT1, IVL, CRABP2, SCEL, MMPI, MMP3, TNC, IL33, STMN3, obtained with this methodology and with EAD for the delipidated seed extract of Adansonia Digitata. The numbers indicated correspond to the signal intensity obtained for the control and for the EAD assay: Signal intensity for Small Protein rich in proline 2A, SPRR2D: - Control: 37.65 - EAD: 999.11 - Change rate: 26.54 - Regulation: UR Signal intensity for Small Protein rich in proline2D, SPRR2A: - Control: 27.01 - EAD: 376.48 - Change rate: 13.94 - Regulation: UR Signal intensity for Lipocaline2, LCN2: - Witness: 23.42 - EAD: 212.16 - Change rate: 9.06 - Regulation: UR Signal intensity for Suprabasin, SBSN: - Witness: 147.82 -EAD: 913.81 - Change rate: 6.18 - Regulation: UR Signal intensity for Comeodesmosin, CDSN: - Witness: 27.13 - EAD: 141.14 - Change rate: 5.20 - Regulation: UR Signal intensity for Dermokine, DMKM: - Witness: 40.41 - EAD: 168.01 - Change rate: 4.16 - Regulation: UR Signal intensity for Filaggrin, FLG: - Witness: 53.99 - EAD: 207.43 - Change rate: 3.84 - Regulation: UR Signal intensity for Keratin 1, KRT1: - Witness: 140.72 -EAD: 513.01 - Change rate: 3.65 - Regulation: UR Signal intensity for Involucrine, IVL: - Witness: 59.02 - EAD: 127.33 - Change rate: 2.16 - Regulation: UR Signal intensity for CRABP2: - Witness: 248.70 - EAD: 610.73 - Change rate: 2.46 - Regulation: UR Signal intensity for the Scieline, SCEL: - Witness: 38.18 - EAD: 87.49 - Change rate: 2.29 - Regulation: UR Signal intensity for Metalloproteinase 1, MMPI: - Witness: 420.32 - EAD: 50.67 - Change rate: 0.12 - Regulation: DR Signal intensity for Metalloproteinase 3, MMP3: - Witness: 290.23 - EAD: 22.65 - Change rate: 0.08 - Regulation: DR Signal intensity for Tenascine C, TNC: - Witness: 175.50 - EAD: 39.05 - Change rate: 0.22 - Regulation: DR Signal intensity for Interleukin-33, IL-33: - Witness: 91.94 - EAD: 22.48 - Change rate: 0.24 - Regulation: DR Signal intensity for the Stathmin 3, STMN3: - Witness: 68.68 - EAD: 20.00 - Change rate: 0.29 - Regulation: DR

[0043] In the examples below, which give examples of the realization of these compositions, without this list being exhaustive, the following abbreviations will be used: EAD for Extract of delipidated seeds of Adansonia Digitata.

[0044] Example 3. According to a first embodiment of the invention, the composition comprises: Carboxypolymethylene or carboxylic polymer..................0.40 g Diethanolamine cetylphosphate............................................1.50g Octyl dodecanol............................................................5.50 g Cetyl alcohol................................................................1.00 g Mineral oil...............................................................2.00 g Stearic acid..............................................................1.00 g Sterylic alcohol ethoxylate (20 E).........................................0.30 g Ketostearyl alcohol....................................................1.80 g Preservative......................................................................0.15 g Baobab oil............................................................0.50 g Triethanolamine..........................................................0.60 g Cyclomethicone.............................................................12.00 g Dimethicone copolyol........................................................3.00 g Phenyl trimeticone...........................................................2.00 g EAD............................................................................3.00 g Dextran........................................................................1.00 g Glycerin..........................................................................2.00 g Demineralized water qsp........................................................100 g After 4 weeks of use on 25 volunteers, skin appeared smoother just 1 hour after each application. At the end of the treatment, the number, length, and width of wrinkles had significantly decreased, and 92% of users reported more hydrated and firmer skin.

[0045] Example 4. According to a second embodiment of the invention, the composition comprises: - Acrylate C10-30........................................................0.50 g - Arginine............................................................0.001g - Glycerin..................................................................................1.00 g - EAD..........................................................................................0.20 g - Alcohol..........................................................................2.00 g - Carbomer................................................................................0.126 g - EDTA..............................................................................................0.005 g - Preservative......................................................................0.867 g - Baobab oil.............................................................................0.5 g - Hydrogenated lecithin.....................................................0.09 g - Hyaluronic acid....................................................................0.20 g - TEA 99%...................................................................................0.62 g - Colorings........................................................................0.0002 g - Demineralized water qsp.................................................................100 g After 4 weeks of use, 35 volunteers aged 20 to 70 years old saw their skin appear significantly more hydrated, firmer and more beautiful.

[0046] Example 5. Oil-in-water emulsion: - Liquid paraffin....................................................6 g - Liquid lanolin................................................................3 g - Arlacel 165................................................................6 g - Tween 60...................................................................2 g - Cetyl alcohol.................................................................1.2 g - Stearic acid.....................................................2.5 g - Arginine........................................................................0.5 g - Volatile silicone oil...................................................10 g - Triethanolamine................................................................0.1 g - Preservative....................................................................0.3 g - EAD........................................................................5 g - Hyaluronic acid.......................................................0.5 g - Demineralized water qsp.....................................................100 g After 4 weeks of twice-daily use by 30 volunteers aged 33 to 70, the skin appeared significantly more toned and firmer for 100% of them. users

[0047] Example 6. Liposome cream: - Cetyl alcohol............................................................................4 g - B-sitosterol...................................................................................4 g - Dicetyl phosphate................................................................................0.5 g - Preservative..............................................................................0.3 g - Carbopol 981 ...................................................................0.2 g - Triethanolamine.........................................................................0.2 g - Phospholipid.............................................................................0.05 g - EAD..................................................................................1.5g - Demineralized water qsp................................................................100 g After use on a panel of 30 volunteers aged 18 to 70, the skin appeared significantly hydrated during the 10 hours of the first application, softer, firmer and younger-looking for 65% of users after 4 weeks of daily use.

[0048] Example 7. Water / Oil Emulsion: - Protein.......................................................................19g - Glycerin....................................................................................3 g - Vaseline oil.........................................................................8 g - Mg sulfate.............................................................................0.5 g - EAD............................................................................0.5 g - Hyaluronic acid.................................................................0.02 g - Preservative.................................................................2 g - Demineralized water qsp.............................................................100 g

[0049] Example 8. O / W gel emulsion - Carbopol 981 ..............................................................0.6 g - Ethyl alcohol..........................................................................15 g - Volatile silicone oil...............................................................3 g - Baobab oil.............................................................................7 g - Preservative................................................................0.3 g - Perfume..........................................................0.4 g - EAD..........................................................................................0.1 g - Triethanolamine........................................................................0.2 g - Demineralized water qsp.................................................................100 g

[0050] Example 9. Glycerin concentrate - Glycerin...........................................................65 g -EAD..........................................................................................5 g - Arginine............................................................................1 g - Hyaluronic acid................................................ 1 g - Perfume........................................................0.4 g - Demineralized water qsp......................................................100 g

Claims

Demands

1. Cosmetic composition comprising a water-soluble extract of delipidated seeds by cold pressing, one to three times successively, of Adansonia digitata of the Malvaceae family and a cosmetically acceptable vehicle which may advantageously be that used as a solvent during the extraction.

2. Cosmetic composition according to claim 1, wherein said cosmetically acceptable vehicle is also that used as solvent during extraction and is selected from water with or without enzyme, a hydroethanolic solution or a water / glycerol mixture.

3. Cosmetic compositions according to claims 1 to 2 characterized in that said water-soluble extract of delipidated seeds of Adansonia digitata of the Malvaceae family is an extract from the seeds of one or more species or varieties of Baobab selected from the group formed by Adansonia digitata, Adansonia digitata mountain variety, Adansonia digitata plains variety, Adansonia kilima, Adansonia grandidieri, Adansonia gregorii, Adansonia madagascariensis, Adansonia perrieri, Adansonia rubrostipa, Adansonia fony, Adansonia suarezensis and Adansonia za.

4. Cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 2 characterized in that said water-soluble extract of Adansonia digitata seeds of the Malvaceae family is made from seeds previously delipidated by cold pressing, one to three times successively, in order to obtain a content of 10% or less by mass of lipids relative to the total mass of the seeds so that in the end the extract comprises less than 1% by mass of lipids relative to the total mass of the extract, in particular from 0% to 1% by mass of lipids relative to the total mass of the extract.

5. A cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 4, characterized in that said delipidated seed extract of Adansonia digitata of the Malvaceae family has been rendered water-soluble by solubilization in a solvent selected from water with or without enzyme, a hydroethanolic solution, or a water / glycerol mixture before being used as is in the composition or stored after complete drying before being resolubilized in these same cosmetically acceptable solvents before use.

6. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 5 characterized in that said water-soluble extract of delipidated seeds of Adansonia digitata of the Malvaceae family represents from 0.1% to 5% by mass relative to the total mass of the composition.

7. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 6, wherein the composition is in the form of an oil-in-water (O / W) or water-in-oil (W / O) emulsion, multiple emulsion (O / W / O, W / O / O), microemulsion, twin-phase emulsion, PIT emulsion, nanoemulsion, pseudoemulsion, aqueous gel, oily gel, hydroalcoholic gel, suspension, lyophilized gel or emulsion and / or any of the preceding forms containing microcapsules, nanocapsules, liposomes, ethosomes and may be in the form of creams, serums, liquids, pastes, lotions, emulsions, gels, solids, powders, masks, sticks, sprays, aerosols.

8. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 6, wherein said composition is in the form of a two-phase micellar makeup remover, a foaming gel, a jelly lotion, an exfoliant, a moisturizing cream, a hydrating serum, a wrinkle-enhancing serum, a moisturizing body lotion, a regenerating mask, a regenerating cream, a slimming body cream, an anti-aging cream, a regenerating serum, a balm, a mist, an eye treatment, a concentrate, or a detoxifying mask.

9. Non-therapeutic cosmetic use of a composition as defined in any one of claims 1 to 8, for topical application on healthy skin with the aim of advantageously using a multifunctional active ingredient which allows the skin to promote its proper maturation and differentiation, making it more beautiful on the surface and more resistant to the harmful effects of external aggressions and aging due to a better quality barrier effect, and also slows down cell proliferation, thus giving the epidermis more time to build itself up and improve its firmness.

10. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 8 for its use in reducing the expression of these two types of proteins, TNC and MMP, which are highly complementary when it is desired to protect the extracellular matrix and reduce proliferation cellular in order to give the skin more time to build itself up better, or even as part of a stimulation of the expression of genes involved in the process of keratinocyte differentiation (KLK7, KLK10, KRT1, SPRR1A, 2A, ; 2D, 2E, CDSN, FLG, IVL, KLK8, CRABP2, SCEL) knowing that SPRR IA, 2A, 2D, 2E correspond to small proteins released during the maturation or differentiation of keratinocytes and which are then taken up by transglutaminases at the level of the stratum corneum to form the corneal envelope surrounding the keratinocytes giving them sufficient rigidity to allow good cohesion and therefore an essential barrier effect as well as a beautiful appearance on the surface of the skin.