Water-soluble extract of defatted Simmondsia chinensis beans and its cosmetic uses.

Abstract

Cosmetic use of extracts of beans or delipidated seeds of Simmondsia chinensis of the Simmondsiaceae family with multifunctional effects and intended to be placed in contact with the various superficial parts of the human body.

Description

Title of the invention: Water-soluble extract of defatted Simmondsia chinensis beans and its cosmetic uses.

[0001] The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition intended to be placed in contact with the various superficial parts of the human body (epidermis, hair and scalp systems, nails, lips and external genital organs) or with the teeth and oral mucosa, with a view exclusively or mainly to cleaning them, perfuming them, changing their appearance, protecting them, keeping them in good condition or correcting body odors and characterized in that it comprises at least one aqueous or hydroalcoholic extract of delipidated beans or seeds of Simmondsia chinensis of the Simmondsiaceae family in order to advantageously use a multifunctional active ingredient which allows both better protection of the skin from xenobiotics, molecules foreign to the body, and to promote its detoxification,to also protect it against oxidative and cellular stress as well as free radicals, and to promote its proper maturation and differentiation, allowing the skin to be more beautiful on the surface, more resistant to the harmful effects of aging, and to present a better quality barrier effect.

[0002] It is known that more and more cosmetics are trying to claim a more organic, ecological, and natural mode of action, with the new ISO 16128 standard, vegan options, and even a slow cosmetics approach (ecological, healthy, intelligent, and reasonable) that takes into account the skin's real needs, advocating the use of fewer ingredients to achieve better results, like the rapidly developing Skinimalism trend, even frugality, positive contributions to the skin, and realistic promises. One response to this concern could be plant extracts with multiple, multifunctional, and complementary properties that are sufficient on their own and therefore often do not require the addition of other active substances in cosmetic formulations.

[0003] In the context of the invention, a multifunctional active ingredient or multifunctional extract will be called an active ingredient or extract having several different and complementary efficacies at several levels of the skin structure in order to make it possible to produce a cosmetic composition with the least amount of extract and active ingredient possible.

[0004] Many people believe that the skin surface to which cosmetics are applied is a dead and inert structure. In fact, this is not the case, and the epidermis, including its surface stratum corneum, is the site of intense biochemical reactions where activators, inhibitors, and inhibitors of inhibitors ensure a balance and a Homeostasis varies with the time of day, the seasons, and age. Each of the epidermal cells, and particularly the keratinocytes, which are the predominant cells of the epidermis, exhibits a complex and fine metabolism leading to cell maturation and differentiation under the control of the expression of the 36,000 genes and variants that compose them.

[0005] It is then easy to imagine the interest of being able to select and test plant substances on the expression of all these genes in order to be able to select the most interesting extracts and develop the most efficient extraction and production methods.

[0006] Among all the plants studied, Simmondsia chinensis, of the Simmondsiaceae family, has numerous and well-known properties when used as a whole, and particularly its oil, or more precisely, its wax. Indeed, jojoba oil is rich in beneficial properties and is used for a wide variety of external treatments for the skin and hair. It is also used for engine lubrication and as a fuel for lighting lamps.

[0007] This oil is produced from seeds contained in a fruit, also called beans or almonds. However, we will use the term beans or seeds in this application as they are closer to reality than the term almond.

[0008] However, the use of oil is not always appreciated by users in cosmetics, especially when it is a wax that solidifies at 15°C. Therefore, there is a need to provide other non-lipid captive forms of Simmondsia chinensis for therapeutic as well as cosmetic purposes.

[0009] One of the aims of the invention is to provide a non-greasy composition.

[0010] Another object of the invention is to propose the use of such a composition in the context of a cosmetic application.

[0011] It is from the observation that very often plants, and particularly their seeds, contain a significant amount of lipids which hinder the release of substances of interest and require the use of complex solvents other than simple water, hydroethanolic solvents or vegetable glycerin that the idea came about to separate, beforehand, these lipids from the rest of the plant to be extracted.

[0012] It was while studying the properties of various water-soluble extracts of Simmondsia chinensis beans or seeds, after delipidation obtained following one or more successive cold pressings, on the expression of genes in normal human keratinocytes, that the applicant unexpectedly discovered that these Simmondsia chinensis extracts possessed numerous properties of interest to healthy skin and therefore to cosmetics, particularly those concerned with minimalist formulas using multifunctional active ingredients, since a given extract could to have many complementary properties and reduce the use of many different active substances.

[0013] Therefore, a cosmetic or pharmaceutical composition intended to be placed in contact with the various superficial parts of the human body (epidermis, hair and scalp systems, nails, lips and external genital organs) or with the teeth and oral mucosa, with a view exclusively or mainly to cleaning them, perfuming them, changing their appearance, protecting them, keeping them in good condition or correcting body odors and characterized in that it comprises at least one water-soluble extract of delipidated beans or seeds of Simmondsia chinensis of the Simmondsiaceae family with the aim of advantageously using a multifunctional active ingredient that both strengthens and promotes the protection of the skin against xenobiotics, molecules foreign to the body and promotes its detoxification,to also protect it against oxidative and cellular stress as well as free radicals, and to promote its proper maturation and differentiation.

[0014] Xenobiotics are understood to mean the different categories of xenobiotics that the skin, the first barrier of our body, is able to detoxify and which include alcohol, medicines, drugs and endocrine disruptors as well as a very large number of products contained in the atmosphere or coming into contact with the skin surface such as pesticides, building materials or furniture and other industrial pollutants.

[0015] The applicant has indeed tested several aqueous or hydroethanolic extracts of Simmondsia chinensis on the whole genome of normal human keratinocytes, and particularly by genome-wide gene expression analysis (36,000 transcribed genes and variants) of normal human epidermal keratinocytes following the extraction of total transcribed Ribonucleic Acids (RNA) and subsequent hybridization on Deoxyribonucleic Acid (DNA) microarrays. The principle of the DNA microarray is based on the property of denatured DNA (single strand) to spontaneously reform its double helix when in the presence of a complementary strand (hybridization reaction). Since it is possible to attach up to a million probes to a biochip, DNA chips constitute a massive approach that the inventor used because they allow in a single experiment to have an estimate on the expression of tens of thousands of genes.

[0016] In the context of the invention, a water-soluble extract of a plant or part of a plant, such as seeds or beans, is understood to be the result of any extraction in a water-soluble solvent, such as water itself, a hydroethanolic solution, or glycerin, and which can serve as a cosmetically acceptable vehicle and therefore be directly formulatable to produce a final cosmetic composition. These extracts can be formulated directly at concentrations of approximately 0.1% to 5% or stored in its dry state after evaporation of water or water plus ethanol or even in its current state in the case of a glycerinated solvent.

[0017] The invention therefore relates to a cosmetic composition comprising a water-soluble extract of delipidated beans or seeds of Simmondsia chinensis of the Simmondsiaceae family and a cosmetically acceptable vehicle.

[0018] Advantageously, said cosmetically acceptable vehicle is also that used as solvent during extraction and is chosen from water with or without enzyme, a hydroethanolic solution or a water / glycerol mixture.

[0019] Also advantageously, said water-soluble extract of beans or seeds of Simmondsia chinensis is made from beans or seeds previously delipidated by cold pressing, one to three times successively, in order to obtain a content of 10% or less by mass of lipids in relation to the total mass of the beans or seeds.

[0020] Even more advantageously, said water-soluble extract of delipidated beans or seeds of Simmondsia chinensis comprises less than 1% by mass of lipids relative to the total mass of the extract, in particular from 0% to 1% by mass of lipids relative to the total mass of the extract.

[0021] In the context of the invention, "from 0% to 1% by mass of lipids" means that the extract may comprise 0, 0.25, 0.5, 0.75, 1% by mass of lipid relative to the mass of the extract.

[0022] Also within the scope of the invention, said extract of beans or delipidated seeds of Simmondsia chinensis has been made water-soluble by solubilization in a solvent chosen from water with or without enzyme, a hydroethanolic solution or a water / glycerol mixture before being able to be used as is in the composition or stored after complete drying before being resolubilized in these same cosmetically acceptable solvents before use.

[0023] Advantageously, the composition is characterized in that said water-soluble extract of delipidated beans or seeds of Simmondsia chinensis represents from 0.1% to 5% by mass relative to the total mass of the composition.

[0024] In the context of the invention, "from 0.1% to 5% by mass" means that the composition may comprise 0.1, 0.2, 0.3, 0.4, 0.5, 0.6, 0.7, 0.8, 0.9, 1, 1.1, 1.2, 1.3, 1.4, 1.5, 1.6, 1.7, 1.8, 1.9, 2, 2.1, 2.2, 2.3, 2.4, 2.5, 2.6, 2.7, 2.8, 2.9, 3, 3.1, 3.2, 3.3, 3.4, 3.5, 3.6, 3.7, 3.8, 3.9, 4, 4.1, 4.2, 4.3, 4.4, 4.5, 4.6, 4.7, 4.8, 4.9 or 5% by mass of delipidated extract relative to the total mass of the composition.

[0025] The effects of different plant extracts on gene expression in Normal Human Epidermal Keratinocytes (NHEK) were investigated. More specifically, a full transcriptome analysis, that is, the analysis of all genes expressed at a given time, was performed using the Affymetrix GeneAtlas platform and the U219 "full human transcriptome" chip containing 36,000 so-called transcribed genes and variants.

[0026] This method, described in more detail in the examples below, allows us to choose, based on the genes stimulated, i.e. whose expression is significantly increased, or inhibited, i.e. whose expression is significantly reduced, the most interesting plants for cosmetic use and which has shown the interest of Simmondsia chinensis of the Simmondsiaceae family among other plants thus tested.

[0027] Then, by selecting the most relevant gene or genes, this method allows for the selection of the optimal protocol(s) to obtain the best possible results. Here, for Simmondsia chinensis of the Simmondsiaceae family, the cytochrome 450 gene (CYP1B1) was used to determine that it was the defatted beans or seeds, subsequently extracted in a simple solvent, that resulted in an increase in expression of over 568% upon contact with normal human keratinocytes (NHEK). The relative expression of this CYP1B1 gene in control keratinocytes had a signal intensity of 20.00, while in keratinocytes exposed to the water-soluble extract of Simmondsia chinensis thus selected, the signal intensity was 133.74, representing a 6.69-fold increase in gene expression, known as a fold change, under the experimental conditions.

[0028] This made it possible to determine an optimum when the extraction was carried out in simple solvents such as water, hydroethanolic mixtures in which the ethanol is then recycled after complete evaporation or mixtures of water and glycerin, whose moisturizing properties for the skin are well established.

[0029] These tests demonstrate the value of a cosmetic composition characterized in that it consists of a water-soluble extract of defatted beans or seeds of Simmondsia chinensis from the Simmondsiaceae family, obtained by mechanically separating the beans or seeds from the fruit, followed by drying for a minimum of 2 days, then by one or more cold pressings of these beans or seeds, after or without prior roasting, followed by oven drying for 1 to 5 hours at a temperature between 50°C and 60°C to prevent the proliferation of microorganisms, then by extraction or maceration in water with or without added enzymes, a hydroethanolic solution or a water / glycerol mixture, or by maceration in glycerol alone, and can then be filtered or centrifuged and stored and used directly in their respective solvent, or again dried, or even lyophilized or zeodrated,which has the effect of strengthening and promoting the skin's protection against xenobiotics, molecules foreign to the body, and promoting its detoxification, as well as protecting it against stress, oxidative and cellular as well as free radicals and to promote its proper maturation and differentiation.

[0030] The invention also relates to a water-soluble extract of beans or delipidated seeds of Simmondsia chinensis of the Simmondsiaceae family, characterized in that it comprises water with or without enzyme, a hydroethanolic solution or a water / glycerol mixture and is prepared from 10% by weight of beans or delipidated seeds which have then been dried.

[0031] Which makes it possible to obtain a water-soluble extract of delipidated beans or seeds of Simmondsia chinensis of the Simmondsiaceae family characterized in that it is intended to be applied to healthy skin to strengthen and promote the protection of the skin against xenobiotics, molecules foreign to the body and to promote its detoxification, to also protect it against oxidative and cellular stress as well as free radicals and to promote its good maturation and good differentiation allowing the skin to be more beautiful on the surface, more resistant to the harmful effects of aging and presenting a better quality barrier effect.

[0032] Or more precisely, a water-soluble extract of defatted beans or seeds of Simmondsia chinensis from the Simmondsiaceae family for the treatment or prevention of the negative effects caused by xenobiotics, molecules foreign to the body that often require detoxification, oxidative and cellular stress, oxygen free radicals, and the slowing of proper keratinocyte maturation and differentiation, all linked to an underexpression of cytochrome P450 (CYP1B1), Small Proline Rich Proteins 2A and 2D (SPRR2A and 2D), Desmoglein 1 (DSG1), and Thioredoxine reductase (TXNRD1), or, conversely, in the context of the overexpression of genes promoting skin problems, localized fibrosis, or cell hyperproliferation following UV irradiation or inflammation, such as in connective tissue growth factor (CTGF) or Jun transcription factor (c-Jun)

[0033] Indeed, cytochrome 450s and those naturally produced by the CYP1B1 gene have oxidoreductase activities complemented by the ability to metabolize toxins and reactive oxygen species, as well as xenobiotic molecules. They regulate cell proliferation and apoptosis in response to oxidative stress and influence the organization of collagen fibrils. They are found in both the skin and the hair bulb. They play an anti-pollution role and metabolize xenobiotics such as caffeine, toxins from cigarette smoke, and barbecue fumes. Small proline-rich proteins are small proteins rich in proline and are naturally encoded by the SPRR2A and 2D genes. In the skin, they are precursors of the stratum corneum and participate in the development of the epidermis and Its cornification is stimulated by transglutaminases such as TGM1, which is also stimulated by this hydrophilic and water-soluble extract of jojoba beans or seeds. Desmoglein, for its part, is a desmosomal protein naturally encoded by the DSG1 gene, predominantly expressed in the outermost layers of the epidermis and responsible for the adhesive properties of the famous desmosomes, veritable snap fasteners, ensuring the cell-cell junction essential to the skin's barrier function and cohesion. Thiredoxin is a reductase encoded by the TXNRD1 gene and also has oxidoreductase activity, oxidative detoxification and response to oxidative stress accelerating aging. Connective tissue growth factor (CTGF), encoded by the CTGF gene, is a matrix cell protein associated with fibrosis and human aging. Numerous studies are attempting to identify inhibitors of its activity. (Arthritis Rheum. 62 (5): 1523-32. doi:10.1002 / art.27382. PMC 3866029. PMID 20213804) The transcription factor Jun (c-Jun) is a proto-oncogene whose expression is stimulated by UV irradiation; many teams are currently searching for inhibitors of this factor, The EMBO Journal. 18 (1): 188-97. doi:10.1093 / emboj / 18.1.188. PMC 1171114. PMID 9878062.

[0034] The invention further relates to the cosmetic use of water-soluble extract of defatted beans or seeds of Simmondsia chinensis of the Simmondsiaceae family intended for use in the treatment or prevention of negative effects caused by xenobiotics, molecules foreign to the body which often require detoxification, oxidative and cellular stress, oxygen free radicals and the slowing of its proper maturation and keratinocyte differentiation, characterized in that the aqueous, hydroethanolic or hydroglycerin extracts are capable of improving the expression of cytochrome P450 (CYP1B1), Small Proline Rich Proteins 2A and 2D (SPRR2A and 2D),of Desmoglein 1 (DSG1) and Thioredoxine reductase (TXNRD1) and to reduce those of Connective tissue growth factor (CTGF) or Jun transcription factor (c-Jun) optimized by genome-wide gene expression analysis (36,000 transcribed genes and variants) of normal human epidermal keratinocytes and by DNA microarray hybridization,

[0035] The invention further relates to the cosmetic use of a water-soluble extract of defatted beans or seeds of Simmondsia chinensis from the Simmondsiaceae family, intended for use in inducing stimulation of the expression of genes involved in the oxidative and cellular stress response (detoxification protein and oxygen free radical scavengers (ORS)) as well as to enable a Increase in genes involved in keratinocyte differentiation (SPRR2A, 2D, KRT1, IVL, TGM1) given that: SPRR2A and 2D correspond to small proteins released during the maturation or differentiation of keratinocytes and which are then taken up by transglutaminases at the level of the stratum corneum to form the corneal envelope surrounding the corneocytes giving them sufficient rigidity to allow good cohesion and therefore an essential barrier effect as well as a beautiful appearance on the surface of the skin, KRT1 for Keratin 1 is a keratin and an intermediate filament of the cytoskeleton playing an important role in maintaining the skin barrier, IVL is the gene that produces Involucrin which serves as a primer for the attachment of other molecules of the corneal envelope, TGMl is the gene that produces Transglutaminase 1 enzyme allowing the polymerization of the different molecules that form the envelopes of the corneocytes (involucrin, keratin 1, small proteins of the SPRR type). The epidermis therefore sees its keratinocytes differentiate better, its horny envelopes form better, as a result of which the skin will be more beautiful on the surface, more resistant to the harmful effects of aging and presenting a better quality barrier effect.

[0036] Advantageously, the invention relates to the non-therapeutic cosmetic use of a composition, for topical application on healthy skin in order to advantageously use a multifunctional active ingredient which both better protects the skin from xenobiotics, molecules foreign to the body and promotes its detoxification, protects it also against oxidative and cellular stress as well as free radicals and promotes its proper maturation and differentiation allowing the skin to be more beautiful on the surface, more resistant to the harmful effects of aging and presenting a better quality barrier effect.

[0037] For cosmetic use, the interest then becomes apparent in a composition comprising a water-soluble extract of delipidated beans or seeds of Simmondsia chinensis of the Simmondsiaceae family, characterized in that it is in the form of an oil-in-water (O / W) or water-in-oil (W / O) emulsion, a multiple emulsion (O / W / W, W / O / W), a microemulsion, a twin-phase emulsion, a PIT emulsion, a nanoemulsion, a pseudoemulsion, an aqueous gel, a fatty gel, a hydroalcoholic gel, a suspension, a lyophilized gel or emulsion and / or one of the preceding forms containing microcapsules, nanocapsules, liposomes, ethosomes and which can be presented as creams, serums, liquids, pastes, lotions, emulsions, gels, solids, powders, masks, sticks, sprays, aerosols.

[0038] As well as a composition comprising a water-soluble extract of defatted beans or seeds of Simmondsia chinensis of the Simmondsiaceae family characterized in it comes in the form of a two-phase micellar makeup remover, a foaming gel, a jelly lotion, an exfoliant, a moisturizer, a hydrating serum, a wrinkle-reducing serum, a moisturizing body lotion, a regenerating mask, a regenerating cream, a slimming body cream, an anti-aging cream, a regenerating serum, a balm, a mist, an eye treatment, a concentrate, or a detoxifying mask

[0039] All this therefore allows the cosmetic use of a water-soluble extract of beans or delipidated seeds of Simmondsia chinensis of the Simmondsiaceae family characterized in that the composition is applied to healthy skin, with the aim of advantageously using a multifunctional active ingredient which allows both to better protect the skin from xenobiotics, molecules foreign to the body and to promote its detoxification, to also protect it against oxidative and cellular stress as well as free radicals and to promote its good maturation and good differentiation as a result of which the skin will be more beautiful on the surface, more resistant to the harmful effects of aging and presenting a better quality barrier effect.

[0040] A cosmetic skincare method for healthy skin to advantageously utilize a multifunctional active ingredient that both strengthens and promotes skin protection against xenobiotics, molecules foreign to the body, promotes detoxification, protects against oxidative and cellular stress and free radicals, and promotes proper maturation and differentiation, comprising the topical administration of a cosmetic composition of a water-soluble extract of delipidated Simmondsia chinensis beans or seeds, optimized by using whole-genome expression analysis (NHEK) of cultured human keratinocytes to determine all of its properties, as well as the optimization of its preparations, the association of enzymes or not during the extraction or maceration steps, and the benefit or not of prior roasting.the percentage of defatted and dried beans or seeds, or the nature of the final drying process, characterized both by increased expression of certain genes of interest and by decreased expression of other genes of interest.

[0041] Examples are given below, without being limiting, for the purpose of illustrating the invention

[0042] Example 1. Obtaining delipidated water-soluble extracts of beans or seeds of Simmondsia chinensis. Extracts of defatted beans or seeds of Simmondsia chinensis (family Simmondsiaceae) are obtained by mechanically separating the beans or seeds from the fruit, followed by drying for a minimum of two days, and then by one or more cold pressings of these seeds or beans, with or without prior roasting, followed by oven drying for one to five hours at a temperature between between 50°C and 60°C to avoid the proliferation of microorganisms, then an extraction or maceration in water with or without added enzymes, a hydroethanolic solution or a water / glycerol mixture or a maceration in glycerol alone and can then be filtered or centrifuged and stored and used directly in their respective solvent or again dried or lyophilized or even zeodrated. They can therefore include water with or without enzyme, a hydroethanolic solution or a water / glycerol mixture and be prepared from 10% by weight of beans or delipidated seeds then dried from the solvent used for extraction or maceration. These extracts can be tested directly or they can be dried, dehydrated, freeze-dried or zeodrated before testing. In the latter cases they are rehydrated or diluted with purified water acting as a solvent. We will call ESC (for Simmondsia Chinensis Extract) the extracts obtained and used in the following examples.

[0043] Example 2. Tests and examples of results. The biological model: Third-pass normal human epidermal keratinocytes (NHEK) cultured at 37°C and 5% CO2. Culture medium supplemented with EGF at 0.25 ng / ml and EP at 25 µg plus gentamicin 25 µg. The test medium consists of SFM keratinocytes with only gentamicin 25 µg / ml. Experimental conditions: Keratinocytes were seeded in 24-well plates and cultured in culture medium for 24 hours, then in test medium for an additional 24 hours. The medium was then replaced with test medium containing or not (control) the compounds under investigation, and the cells were incubated for 24 hours. All experimental conditions were performed in triplicate (n=3). At the end of incubation, the culture supernatants were removed and the cell mats were rinsed with a PBS solution. The plate was immediately frozen dry at -80°C. Prior to extraction, the culture replicates were pooled. Total RNA from each sample was extracted using TriPure Isolation Reagent® according to the protocol recommended by the supplier. The quantity and quality of RNA were assessed by capillary electrophoresis (Bioanalyzer 2100, Agilent). The synthesis of biotinylated antisense RNAs (aRNAs) was carried out using the "GeneChip 3'IVT Express" kit (Affymetrix®). For each biotinylated RNA sample, an electrophoretic profile was performed (Bioanalyzer 2100, Agilent) before and after fragmentation. The hybridization of labeled and fragmented RNAs on the Affymetrix® U219 chip (36,000 transcripts and variants) was carried out on the GeneAtlas™ fluidics Affymetrix ® hybridization station for 20 hours at 45 °C. The U219 chips were then scanned using the GeneAtlas™ Imaging station (Affymetrix® - 2 pm resolution) to generate signal intensity data as shown in the result examples below. Signal intensity data were normalized using Expression Console software (Affymetrix®), based on the RMA algorithm. Quality control of the labeling and hybridization was then performed. Quality controls of the hybridization and labeling steps validated the experimental process Once normalized with Expression Console software, the data were transferred and formatted in a Microsoft Excel file. Calculations and filters have been added to these files to sort the data and facilitate its use. The "fold change" thresholds or rate of change (value corresponding to the ratio: signal intensity value of a probe corresponding to the treated sample / signal intensity value of a probe corresponding to the control) were defined and applied to the normalized data. The following abbreviations are used in the analysis files: - UR: Upregulated - overexpression or stimulation of the probe or gene when the fold change is greater than 2, - DR: Downregulated - underexpression or inhibition of the probe or gene when the fold change is less than 0.5. Each analysis file consists of: - The signal intensity value (RE: Relative Expression) corresponding to each of the samples, - Calculations of "fold change" or rate of change for each comparison, - Information relating to each gene. The filters inserted into these files allow the selection of significantly modulated genes. The example of gene probes corresponding to the variation in expression of CYP1B1, c-Jun and CTGF thus obtained with this ESC methodology for the extract of beans or delipidated seeds of Simmondsia Chinensis, the numbers indicated correspond to the intensity of the signal obtained for the control and for the ESC assay: Signal intensity for Cytochrome P450 (CYP1B1) probe 1: - Witness: 20.36 - ESC: 32.58 - Change rate: 1.60 - Regulation: UR Signal intensity for Cytochrome P450 (CYP1B1) probe 2: - Witness: 36.24 - ESC: 53.13 - Change rate: 1.47 - Regulation: UR Signal intensity for Jun (c-Jun): - Witness: 49.66 - ESC: 21.25 - Change rate: 0.43 - Regulation: DR Signal intensity for Connective tissue growth factor (CTGF): - Witness: 290.23 - ESC: 22.65 - Change rate: 0.08 - Regulation: DR

[0044] In the examples below, which provide examples of how to prepare these compositions, although this list is not exhaustive, the following abbreviations will be used: ESC for extract of defatted beans or seeds of Simmondsia chinensis

[0045] Example 3. According to a first embodiment of the invention, the composition comprises: Carboxypolymethylene or carboxylic polymer..................0.40 g Diethanolamine cetylphosphate............................................1.50g Octyl dodecanol............................................................5.50 g Cetyl alcohol..................................................................1.00 g Mineral oil.................................................................2.00 g Stearic acid............................................................1.00 g Sterylic alcohol ethoxylate (20 E)...........................................0.30 g Ketostearyl alcohol....................................................1.80 g Preservative................................................................0.15 g Jojoba Oil........................................................................0.50 g Triethanolamine..........................................................0.60 g Cyclomethicone............................................................12.00 g Dimethicone copolyol........................................................3.00 g Phenyl trimeticone...........................................................2.00 g ESC................................................................................3.00 g Dextran.........................................................................1.00 g Glycerin.............................................................................2.00 g Demineralized water qsp........................................................100 g After 4 weeks of use on 30 volunteers, skin appeared smoother just 2 hours after each application. At the end of the treatment, the number, length, and width of wrinkles had significantly decreased, and 92% of users reported more hydrated skin.

[0046] Example 4. According to a second embodiment of the invention, the composition comprises: - Acrylate C10-30........................................................0.50 g - Arginine............................................................0.001g - Glycerin..................................................................................1.00 g - ESC..........................................................................................0.20 g - Alcohol..................................................................2.00 g - Carbomer................................................................................0.126 g - EDTA..............................................................................................0.005 g - Preservative......................................................................0.867 g - Jojoba oil.............................................................................0.5 g - Hydrogenated lecithin.....................................................0.09 g - Hyaluronic acid....................................................................0.20 g - TEA 99%...................................................................................0.62 g - Colorings........................................................................0.0002 g - Demineralized water qsp.................................................................100 g After 4 weeks of use, 30 volunteers aged 20 to 70 years old saw their skin appear significantly more hydrated and more beautiful.

[0047] Example 5. Oil-in-water emulsion: - Liquid paraffin.................................................6 g - Liquid lanolin................................................................3 g - Arlacel 165................................................................6 g - Tween 60...................................................................2 g - Cetyl alcohol................................................................1.2 g - Stearic acid.................................................2.5 g - Arginine........................................................................0.5 g - Volatile silicone oil...................................................10 g - Triethanolamine................................................................0.1 g - Preservative....................................................................0.3 g - ESC..........................................................................5g - Hyaluronic acid.......................................................0.5 g - Demineralized water qsp.....................................................100 g. After 4 weeks of twice-daily use by 30 volunteers aged 33 to 70, the skin appeared significantly more toned and firmer for 100% of them. users

[0048] Example 6. Liposome cream: - Cetyl alcohol.............................................................................4 g - B-sitosterol...................................................................................4 g - Dicetyl phosphate................................................................................0.5 g - Preservative..............................................................................0.3 g - Carbopol 981 ...................................................................0.2 g - Triethanolamine.........................................................................0.2 g - Phospholipid........................................................................................0.05 g - ESC..................................................................................1.5g - Demineralized water qsp................................................................100 g After use on a panel of 30 volunteers aged 18 to 70, the skin appeared significantly hydrated during the 3 hours following the first application, and softer and younger-looking for 65% of users after 4 weeks of use. daily.

[0049] Example 7. Water / Oil Emulsion: - Protein.......................................................................19g - Glycerin....................................................................................3 g - Vaseline oil.........................................................................8 g - Mg sulfate.............................................................................0.5 g - ESC............................................................................0.5g - Hyaluronic acid.................................................................0.02 g - Preservative...........................................................2 g - Demineralized water qsp.............................................................100 g

[0050] Example 8. Oil-in-water gel emulsion - Carbopol 981 .........................................................0.6 g - Ethyl alcohol..........................................................................15 g - Volatile silicone oil...............................................................3 g - Jojoba oil.............................................................................7 g - Preservative............................................................0.3 g - Perfume...................................................................0.4 g -ESC..................................................................................0.1g - Triethanolamine........................................................................0.2 g - Demineralized water qsp.................................................................100 g

[0051] Example 9. Glycerinated concentrate -Glycerin...........................................................65 g -ESC..........................................................................................5 g - Arginine............................................................................1 g - Hyaluronic acid................................................ 1 g - Perfume........................................................0.4 g - Demineralized water qsp......................................................100 g

Claims

Demands

1. Cosmetic composition comprising a water-soluble multifunctional extract of beans or seeds defatted by cold pressing, one to three times successively, of Simmondsia chinensis of the Simmondsiaceae family and a cosmetically acceptable vehicle which can advantageously be used as a solvent during extraction.

2. Cosmetic composition according to claim 1, wherein said cosmetically acceptable vehicle is also that used as solvent during extraction and is selected from water with or without enzyme, a hydroethanolic solution or a water / glycerol mixture.

3. Cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 2 characterized in that said water-soluble extract of beans or seeds of Simmondsia chinensis of the Simmondsiaceae family is made from beans or seeds previously delipidated by cold pressing, one to three times successively, in order to obtain a content of 10% or less by mass of lipids relative to the total mass of the beans or seeds.

4. Cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 3 characterized in that said water-soluble extract of delipidated beans or seeds of Simmondsia chinensis of the Simmondsiaceae family comprises less than 1% by mass of lipids relative to the total mass of the extract, in particular from 0% to 1% by mass of lipids relative to the total mass of the extract.

5. Cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 4 characterized in that said extract of defatted beans or seeds of Simmondsia chinensis of the Simmondsiaceae family has been made water-soluble by solubilization in a solvent selected from water with or without enzyme, a hydroethanolic solution or a water / glycerol mixture before being used as is in the composition or stored after complete drying before being resolubilized in these same cosmetically acceptable solvents before use.

6. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 5 characterized in that said water-soluble extract of defatted beans or seeds of Simmondsia chinensis of the family Simmondsiaceae represents 0.1% to 5% by mass relative to the total mass of the composition.

7. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 6, wherein the composition is in the form of an oil-in-water (O / W) or water-in-oil (W / O) emulsion, multiple emulsion (O / W / O, W / O / O), microemulsion, twin-phase emulsion, PIT emulsion, nanoemulsion, pseudoemulsion, aqueous gel, oily gel, hydroalcoholic gel, suspension, lyophilized gel or emulsion and / or any of the preceding forms containing microcapsules, nanocapsules, liposomes, ethosomes and may be in the form of creams, serums, liquids, pastes, lotions, emulsions, gels, solids, powders, masks, sticks, sprays, aerosols.

8. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 6, said composition being in the form of a two-phase micellar makeup remover, a foaming gel, a jelly lotion, an exfoliant, a moisturizing cream, a moisturizing serum, a wrinkle-enhancing serum, a moisturizing body lotion, a regenerating mask, a regenerating cream, a slimming body cream, an anti-aging cream, a regenerating serum, a balm, a mist, an eye treatment, a concentrate, or a detoxifying mask.

9. Non-therapeutic cosmetic use of a composition as defined in any one of claims 1 to 8, for topical application on healthy skin with the aim of advantageously using a multifunctional active ingredient that both better protects the skin from xenobiotics, molecules foreign to the body and promotes its detoxification, protects it also against oxidative and cellular stress as well as free radicals and promotes its proper maturation and differentiation, allowing the skin to be more beautiful on the surface, more resistant to the harmful effects of aging and exhibiting a better quality barrier effect.

10. A cosmetic skincare method for healthy skin that advantageously utilizes a multifunctional active ingredient to both strengthen and promote skin protection against xenobiotics (molecules foreign to the body), promote detoxification, protect against oxidative and cellular stress and free radicals, and promote proper maturation and differentiation, including administration by topical application of a cosmetic composition of a water-soluble extract of beans or delipidated seeds of Simmondsia chinensis and optimized by the use of full genome expression analysis of cultured human keratinocytes in order to determine all of its properties as well as the optimization of its preparations, the association of enzymes or not during the extraction or maceration steps, the interest or not of prior roasting, the % of beans or delipidated and dried seeds or the nature of the final drying and characterized both by an increase in the expression of certain genes of interest and by a decrease in the expression of other genes of interest.

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